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TexSPACE Today January 2024 Issue

The January 2024 issue of TexSPACE highlights the successful Heimtextil 2024 trade fair, which focused on sustainable solutions and artificial intelligence in the textile industry, attracting over 46,000 visitors and 2,838 exhibitors. The event showcased innovative textiles categorized into plant-based, bioengineered, and technological textiles, emphasizing the importance of sustainability and the Sustainable Development Goals. Additionally, it featured advancements in recycling and upcycling technologies, as well as collaborations aimed at enhancing sustainability in the fashion sector.
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
24 views36 pages

TexSPACE Today January 2024 Issue

The January 2024 issue of TexSPACE highlights the successful Heimtextil 2024 trade fair, which focused on sustainable solutions and artificial intelligence in the textile industry, attracting over 46,000 visitors and 2,838 exhibitors. The event showcased innovative textiles categorized into plant-based, bioengineered, and technological textiles, emphasizing the importance of sustainability and the Sustainable Development Goals. Additionally, it featured advancements in recycling and upcycling technologies, as well as collaborations aimed at enhancing sustainability in the fashion sector.
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 36

SPACE

Volume 05, Issue 05, 36 Pages

January 2024

 www.texspacetoday.com

take centerstage at
Heimtextil 2024

DTG 2024 to unveil Dilo Group advancing EURATEX Manifesto


innovation in textile & sustainability through 2024 calls for green
garment industry decades of innovation transformation
and detail
More at... 13 More at... 18 More at... 33
1 2 3
The biggest More Than 750,000+ Paper, PDF &
industry network & Monthly Website E-Magazine Reaches To
communication platform Page View About 200,000+ People
for branding & promotion Per Month.

4 5 6

Weekly E-Bulletin More Than 200,000+ Webinar Series For


Reaches To About Social Media Technology/Solutions
100,000+ People Per Engagement Launching
Month

7 8 9
Technology Piloting/ Biggest Ever PEOPLE Project For
Problem Solving Academy - Industry Increasing Profitability
Through STB Collaboration & Organization Build Up.
Innovation Hub

+88 01775 999 748 | info@textiletoday.com.bd | www.textiletoday.com.bd


Volume 05, Issue 05, 36 Pages
January 2024

Editor in Chief
Tareq Amin

Executive Chief
Eousup Novee

Managing Editors
SK Saha
Rahbar Hossain
Akhi Akter

Executive Editors
Sadman Sakib
M A Mohiemen Tanim
Sayed Abdullah
Arif Uz Zaman

Special Editors
Muddassir Rashid
Setara Begum

Head of Business
Amzad Hossain

Design
Easen Miah
Hasan Miah

Cinematographer
Ashraful Alam

A Textile Today Innovation Hub publication.

The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher
or the editor. We have taken every effort to ensure accuracy. TexSPACE Today
does not accept any liability for claims made by advertisers or contributors. The
publisher reserves the right to edit and publish any editorial material supplied
and does not accept responsibility for loss or damages of any unsolicited
material or contribution.

© All rights reserved to Textile Today Innovation Hub 2024


Volume 05, Issue 05 (January 2024)
Volume 05, Issue 05, 36 Pages
January 2024

Content January 2024

5 AI and sustainability
in focus: Heimtextil
2024 highlights scalable
21 Manifattura Ceccarelli
and Halley Stevensons
collaborate to make
28 Saurer exploring
sustainable potentials for
profitable textile business
sustainable solutions waterproof denim

10 Why techwear clothing


is getting popular all over
the world?
22 Arvind & Gap partner
on world’s first water
innovation hub for
29 TreeToTextile bringing
new generation of bio-
apparel sustainability based fiber to market

11 A Journey with
Dell’Orco & Villani
23 Refiberd: Revolutionizing 30 Cloud-Based PLM
Software: A Solution for
Textile Waste Competitive Fashion
Management with AI and
Advanced Imaging

14 DTG 2024 to unveil


innovation in textile &
31 TÜV SÜD, announced

24
garment industry appointment of Liz
Smart Glove is helping Fendt as Chief Sales and
stroke patients regain Marketing Officer

16
their grip on life

32
Pompeii’s ancient textile
dyeing technique comes BASF and Inditex make

25
to life a breakthrough in textile-
Vivobarefoot & Balena to-textile recycling with
partner on 3D-printed loopamid®

17 Saurer OpenHouse 2024:


biodegradable shoe
innovation

33
a platform for knowledge
sharing and innovation EURATEX Manifesto
2024 calls for green

18 26 Deha & Emana®’s


innovative leggings
transformation

34
Dilo Group advancing
sustainability through pamper your skin with
Lifestyle consumers
decades of innovation every step
prioritize sustainability,
and detail says Stifel survey

20 Trützschler TC-30i sets a


new standard in carding
27 Sqim secures €11m to
grow mycelium-based
sustainable fashion
35 Boohoo weighs closing
Leicester factory after
BBC investigation raises
materials ethical concerns
AI and sustainability in focus:
Heimtextil 2024 highlights
scalable sustainable solutions
Md Muddassir Rashid

The recent edition of Heimtextil 24, a prominent trade


fair showcasing home and contract textiles in Frankfurt,
Germany, concluded with remarkable success. The event
experienced a notable increase in both exhibitors and
visitors, establishing new standards for a sustainable and
artificial intelligence-driven textile industry.

Heimtextil 2024 ended with 46,000 visitors from around


130 nations and 2,838 exhibitors from 60 nations with 25
percent growth. With a plus in visitors, the show overcame
difficult travel conditions due to nationwide rail strikes
and regional demonstrations.

Through a series of discussions, tours, and workshops,


Figure: Trend Space at Heimtextil 2024
Heimtextil also focused on two of the most important key
topics of the coming decades: sustainable production and To do this, the Texpertise Network leverages the extensive
action as well as artificial intelligence. reach of its 50+ textile events held globally. The objective
"Heimtextil ends with overwhelming participation. The is to raise awareness and disseminate knowledge about the
increase in space, exhibitors and visitors in 2024 makes Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) across all Messe
the following clear: the leading trade fair for home and Frankfurt textile events worldwide - from Frankfurt to
contract textiles remains on course for growth - and sets New York, Atlanta, Shanghai, and Paris.
new standards for a sustainable and AI-driven textile The Messe Frankfurt Texpertise Network is a proud
industry", says Detlef Braun, Member of the Executive member of the United Nations Fashion and Lifestyle
Board of Messe Frankfurt. Network. The network is a dynamic online platform
bringing together industry stakeholders, media,
Sustainable Development Goals (SDG)
governments, and UN system entities to collaborate and
showcase responsible business practices guided by the
Sustainable Development Goals.

New sensitivity: Transformative textile


innovations
The focus of Heimtextil’s 24/25 edition was addressing
change at scale. The exhibition presented different
transformative textile innovations under the headline
"New Sensitivity."

New Sensitivity in home textiles has been categorized into


three different approaches: plant-based, bioengineered,
Figure: Texpertise Network at Heimtextil 2024
and technological textiles.
Heimtextil is an integral part of the Messe Frankfurt
In Hall.03 under New Sensitivity, the new cellulosic
Texpertise Network, dedicated to accelerate innovation
fibres from fast-rising Scandinavian companies such as
and transformation within the textile and fashion sector.
Renewcell and Spinnova were heavily featured, alongside
The network is committed to advance the Decade of Action
natural fibres such as hemp, jute, and wool.
to achieve the Sustainable Development Goals by 2030.

January 2024
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 5
To a certain degree, bio-engineered textiles represent a
fusion of plant-based and technological textiles. Bio-
engineering bridges nature and technology and transforms
the way textiles are made. We found CiCLO®, Modern
Meadow, and NOOSA® under this category.

CiCLO® synthetic textiles behave like natural fibers when


they end up as pollutants in the environment. Pillow from
Earth & Home using CiCLO® 100 % Polyester staple fiber fill.

The textiles have been embedded with biodegradable


spots. These spots act like nutrient sources for microbes
that naturally exist in the environment helping the
synthetic textile to biodegrade more in comparison to
unembedded synthetic textiles. Modern Meadow produces
Figure: Bananatex®
bio-engineered textiles with the use of nature’s building
Plant-based: Textiles made from plant blocks: proteins. Bio-Tex™ is a coated textile that delivers
crops or plant by-products colour vibrancy and performance while reducing GHG
emissions by over 90 % compared to traditional, chrome-
The sustainable advantage of plant-based textiles is tanned leather, based on an LCA.
that their origin is natural and, therefore, more able to
recirculate in existing ecosystems. NOOSA® is another innovative staple fibre that is
bioengineered and made from corn. It can be 100 %
Among the less popular natural fibres Bananatex® was upcyclable without being deteriorated.
displayed which is a durable, technical fabric made purely
from the naturally grown Abacá banana plants. Technological textiles: Technology and
Oleatex by Oleago exhibited an alternative leather made
technical solutions transforming textiles
from waste derived from the olive oil industry. Oleatex is
a plant-based next-generation leather that is 100% vegan,
and sustainable innovation for the textile industry. it is
crafted from bio-wastes with an awarded formula.

Desertto is another sustainable initiative displayed by


Mexican company Adriano Di Marti. It is a plant-based
vegan textile derived from the Mexican Nopal cactus and
its properties make an alternative to animal leather.

Another sustainable innovation showcased is Banbū


Leather by Von Holzhausen. This is a leather alternative
that’s 83 % plant-based (bamboo), biodegradable in a
landfill, yet as supple and durable as leather.

Bioengineered: Engineered to enhance


bio-degrading

Figure: Fibre52

Technology can support the transformation of textiles


through the use of different methods: upcycling and
recycling of textiles, textile construction, and textile
design. Due to decades of production, textiles are now a
material we have in abundance. Developing technologies
for recycling textile waste and methods for upcycling
textiles increases the circular usage of existing textiles and
thus reduces the need for virgin production.

Jute Globe is a lamp shade made from jute and bioplastic.


Figure: Textiles by CiCLO®, Amadeau Materials and Von Holzhausen Design by Mathilde Fly Heegaard from VIA University

6 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy January 2024


College, VIA Design and Business. The base is Renewcell
Cellulose fibers to be used in their Circulose® process.

Fibre52 is a prepare for dye (PFD) and dye technology


that retains cotton’s natural properties, resulting in a
stronger, kinder fabric. This means the cotton can last
longer and be recycled in several loops.

Suntex is a lightweight woven solar textile made by Studio


Pauline van Dongen and Tentech. This new material can
be used in tensile architecture, textile shading structures
and textile façades which can harvest solar energy while
providing passive sun shading. Photography by Anna
Figure: Radiant Matter
Wetzel.
Netherlands-based Flocus is creating a responsible supply
Dinamica® by Miko is a microfibre made in Italy that
chain and new uses for kapok, a regenerative, soft organic
resembles suede. It is produced in part by using recycled
fibre traditionally used as a stuffing filler. Lightweight,
polyester without the use of organic solvents but using a
antibacterial, moisture and temperature regulating, Flocus
water-based process.
fibre is recyclable and biodegradable, and can be spun
Future materials by FranklinTill into fine yarn or blended with other materials to create
more sustainable fashion, interior or industrial textiles.
UK-based Radiant Matter is a material science company
creating naturally sparkling and vibrantly coloured
materials from highly-renewable cellulose, an abundant
polymer found in plants, fruit skins or recycled paper.
Inspired by the natural iridescence of peacock feathers and
jewel beetles, Radiant Matter's structurally coloured and
shimmering material is created from cellulose. Radiant
Matter's first application, the BioSequin, has captured
the excitement of the apparel industry as seen in their
partnership with fashion brand Stella McCartney.

US-based innovation platform Keel Labs is exploring the


ocean’s regenerative power and potential as a climate-
Figure: Cutting-edge textiles and materials displayed by FranklinTill at Trend Space focused material resource, creating a textile industry yarn
FranklinTill is a futures research agency working with made from kelp. Its star product Kelsun™ is a seaweed-
global brands and organisations to explore and implement based yarn created from an abundant polymer found in
design, material and colour innovation. At Heimtextil kelp. A naturally regenerative organism that is easy to
2024, FranklinTill showcased globally curated cutting- grow, kelp absorbs carbon dioxide in the ocean while
edge textiles and materials to illustrate the principles improving local habitats.
of regenerative design. UK materials science company FibreTrace® connects digital traceability with physical
Ponda makes planet-positive textiles from plant-based technology to track and verify fibres throughout the global
raw materials. BioPuff® is a fibre filler material with supply chain, from raw material to retail store, to reuse
insulating properties made from bulrush plants grown on and recycling. With a focus on transparency, honesty and
wetlands. Created with low-energy, waterless processes, accountability, FibreTrace® Verified embeds patented
this high-performance product naturally biodegrades luminescent pigment markers within raw fibres, which are
in compostable conditions, safely re-entering the then tracked and verified with unique scanning devices in
environment with a traceable life span. real-time, and recorded as a digital twin.
Led by multidisciplinary designer Jess Redgrave, UK-
"Econogy" combines economy and
based Climafibre is working on material solutions for the
fashion industry that support regenerative farming and
ecology at Heimtextil
food systems using sunflowers. Using the whole plant, "Econogy" stands for all sustainability activities of Messe
Climafibre produces fibre for textiles from the stem, Frankfurt's Texpertise Network across international
natural dyes from the flower and water-resistant coatings trade fairs and provides orientation. The term "Econogy"
from sunflower seed oil industry by-products. combines economy and ecology in one word and shows

January 2024
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 7
Figure: TreetoTextile team at Heimtextil 2024

how decisive sustainability is today for the economic Never before have transformations such as artificial
success of a company. For more than ten years now, intelligence and sustainability been so intensively at the
Heimtextil has been promoting this theme using a series center of Heimtextil and presented effective levers for a
of measures and giving green pioneers a platform. future-oriented approach to key technology. For the first
Swedish-based TreeToTextile Technology™ exhibits its time in 2024, the trade fair provided fascinating insights
new generation of bio-based cellulose fiber. Supported into the textile application of artificial intelligence and the
by it’s strong owners H&M Group, Inter IKEA Group, use of AI-controlled sorting to refine recycled textile waste
Stora Enso and LSCS Invest, it has developed and into new yarns. In the trend space, visitors' textile design
commercialized a new innovative cellulosic fiber. The ideas were also brought to life at interactive stations using
fiber has a dry, cotton-like hand feel, a semi-dull luster tools such as ChatGPT-4 and Midjourney.
and high drapability, like viscose. It is versatile and has
In addition, Heimtextil once again made state-of-the-art
a strong potential to complement or replace both cotton
sustainable production and action tangible. One of the
and viscose as stand alone or in blends, depending on
main points of contact were the Heimtextil Trends with
application.
New Sensitivity: the concept focused on the ongoing
Its unparallelled environmental footprint and transformation of the textile industry and presented
functionality, makes the fiber among the top choices on a numerous market-ready and scalable solutions. One
global scale, helping the textile industry to accelerate the example was the company Ever Dye, whose self-developed
transition to net zero. The process uses less chemicals, color pigments enable dyeing at room temperature.
allowing for a more sustainable and cost-efficient process Variant 3D, on the other hand, offers AI-driven knitting
compared to conventional technologies and fibers. software that can be used to produce even complex shapes
such as lampshades without creating patterns.
Artificial Intelligence in textile product design
This year, Heimtextil also announced a partnership with
Studio Urquiola for 2025 and emphasized their joint
commitment to innovation, sustainability, and design in
the textile industry.

Messe Frankfurt (lit. 'Frankfurt Trade Fair') is one of the


world's largest trade fairs, congress and event organizers
with its exhibition grounds. The organization has more
than 2,300 people at 28 locations around the globe. Its
services include renting exhibition grounds, trade fair
construction and marketing, personnel and food services.
Headquartered in Frankfurt am Main, the company is
owned by the City of Frankfurt (60 percent) and the
federal state Hesse (40 percent).

Figure: Augmented Weaving allowed visitors to explore how augmented reality can
influence Jacquard weaving techniques

8 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy January 2024


January 2024
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 9
Why techwear clothing is getting
popular all over the world?
US Shampa

When just you look around you will know why, at every
instant of time, you are surrounded by technology. As you
are working or resting, you are always using technology. It
is used everywhere and all the time. It has made life easy.

As per in terms of clothing, nothing is better than


Techwear because it is based on technology. Techwear is
a unique type of clothing that has hit the world without
warning. Technical wear or Techwear is clothing made
with materials of the highest quality. It’s made to be
comfortable to be in, yet still very stylish. Also, the high
quality of their materials makes them long-lasting and
durable against the elements.

The fashion industry has been adopting and deploying


innovative technologies in several areas as the relationship
between technology and fashion has been dynamic and
ever-evolving, with the fashion industry embracing new
technologies to enhance the shopping experience, improve
sustainability, and drive innovation.

This is known as fashion technology or fast tech. Fashion


technology is a generic term that describes the tools the
fashion industry uses to improve the production and
consumption of fashion.
Courtesy: 5shop.lol

Techwear is an umbrella word for various sub-categories


that expands and broadens by expressing an extensive from 198 w 0s movies, but the shades introduced by
sub-culture. They all are forwarding with a certain their innovative designs, higher quality materials, and
trend, which results in hybrid forms complementing one meticulous research elevate it to an emerging, extremely
another. Technical means sharper, more industrial-looking sophisticated style. It has a similar look to other urban
aesthetic. styles, yet it distinguishes out with its techno look.

All these make Techwear of clothing concept for the Army gear has always been a source of inspiration for
future. The unique ability to be both functional and stylish Techwear; in this case, it's simply a bit more obvious.
at the same time has made Techwear popular. This kind of look often includes cargo pants and bomber
jackets, which is what modern fashion icons that have
People started techwear during the 1970s when outdoor
seen service in the military tend to prefer. There might
activities became widely popularized among other things,
also be modular storage pockets for equipment.
mountaineering, climbing, or trekking. The environment
and weather conditions specific to these activities are As technological innovation in healthcare is growing at a rapid
very specific, the development of new clothing and rate, wearable technology has proven useful in many ways.
technologies is quickly felt in the world of outdoor
With all of these possibilities, there is a wave revealing
clothing.
the dark side of Techwear. The aesthetics of the latter
Now techwear is about winning a combination of mainly revolve around the iconic punk style. Many
dystopian techwear and casual streetwear. To an high-end fashion companies have made it the key
inexperienced user, it might seem like futuristic clothing emphasis of their collections.

10 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy January 2024


Revolutionizing textile recycling in Bangladesh:

A Journey with
Dell’Orco & Villani
Desk Report

Yearly, 92 million tonnes of textile waste are produced around the world. Imagine throwing away
a garbage truck's worth of textiles per second. Textile recycling, which refers to the process of
collecting pre and post-consumer waste and processing materials for fiber-to-fiber recovery and
reprocessing the material into new, useable goods, could be an effective solution.

An Overview of the
Textile Recycling
Market:
Potentiality of the is recycled in Bangladesh, it could
The global textile recycling
Recycling RMG Industry save $500 million on cotton imports.
market is expected to grow
Bangladesh, with a substantial Introducing Dell’Orco & from USD 6.5 billion in
cotton fiber clothing manufacturing Villani 2022 to USD 9.9 billion by
base, could benefit from $1.2 billion 2030, at a CAGR of 6.2%
In Italy, Dell’Orco & Villani's throughout 2023 and 2030.
in recycled textile and garment
revolutionary textile recycling The EU's Sustainable
products. Currently, only five
machine, developed since 1964, is and Circular Textiles
percent of the 600,000 tonnes of
transforming the textile industry. 2022 initiatives aim to
pre-consumer textile waste generated
This state-of-the-art innovation boost textile durability,
each year is recycled locally. Local
converts textile and garment waste repairability, reusability,
producers often import recycled
into reusable materials, offering and recyclability, in
fiber and yarn made from waste
a sustainable solution to address addition, to combat fast
and scrap fabrics exported from
environmental concerns. fashion and textile waste
Bangladesh. If 100% of cotton waste
while preserving social
rights. Fashion brands
are on board with this
approach, aiming to
incorporate recycled or
sustainable fibers into
RMG production by 2025-
30, with the ultimate goal
of using 100% recycled
materials.

January 2024
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 11
Distinguished features: RH Corporation & SAS
1. Utilizing Dell’Orco's
Enterprise: Pioneers in R&D Initiatives:
exclusive wire-based Textile Recycling Turning Waste into
technology, the super opening Wealth/ Transforming
In Bangladesh, RH Corporation
system ensures superior fiber and SAS Enterprise have taken Waste into Usable Fiber
homogeneity (only Dell’Orco the initiative to represent this
has this technology in the In addition to their recycling
ground-breaking machine.
market). efforts, RH Corporation & SAS
By providing technological
Enterprise are spearheading
2. The production line features support, they are actively
R&D initiatives that focus
advanced safety measures, involved in the textile recycling
on transforming diversified
including fire protection process to provide waste
waste into usable fiber by
and a metal detector for management solutions, fostering
integrating technological
efficient impurity removal by the development of a resilient
and technical insights with
not having back-processing textile recycling industry under
different stakeholders. Their
friction. the circular economy.
initiatives aim to innovate
3. An auto-blending system Engaging with waste management and
enhances fiber uniformity Stakeholders enhance sustainable production
to maximize the use of fiber processes.
The journey towards a
length.
sustainable textile industry is The collaboration between RH
4. Increased productivity is not a solitary one. It requires Corporation & SAS Enterprise
facilitated by higher drum the collective effort of diverse and Dell’Orco & Villani signifies
diameter. stakeholders. From spinners a promising step towards a
to brands and policymakers, sustainable textile and garment
5. Based on the production
RH Corporation and SAS waste management future that
plan, it is feasible to
Enterprise engage with a not only revolutionizes the
implement line skipping with
wide range of stakeholders textile industry in Bangladesh
D&V
to promote and implement but also contributes to a
6. The system boasts a 15%-20% recycling practices. global movement towards
power consumption reduction sustainability.
compared to alternatives,
coupled with cutting-edge
dust control technology
(User’s feedback).

12 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy January 2024


DTG 2024 to unveil innovation
in textile & garment industry
Sayed Abdullah

Source:DTG 2023

Dhaka Int’l Textile & Garment Machinery Exhibition textile and garment industries taking the lead. Global
– DTG 2024 will kick off at ICCB - International manufacturers are drawn to this mega platform, eager
Convention City Bashundhara from 1st to 4th February to establish a presence and explore lucrative business
2024, which is concurrent with DitaTex - Dhaka opportunities in the country.
Int’l Textile & Apparel Accessories Exhibition and
Witness a comprehensive array of equipment, materials,
DYECHEM - Dhaka Int’l Dyeing & Chemical Industry
and accessories essential for various stages of the textile
Exhibition. Mahir Group focusing recycled garment
and garment industrial chains, including spinning,
accessories. The prestigious 3-in-1 exhibitions are a
weaving, knitting, dyeing, printing, finishing, and garment
collaborative effort between BTMA - Bangladesh Textile
manufacturing segments. Among them are top spinning
Mills Association and Yorkers Trade and Marketing
equipment suppliers TRUETZSCHLER, RIETER,
Service Co., Ltd. These exhibitions showcase cutting-edge
SAURER, MURATA, LMW, and CTMTC; weaving
techniques, innovative solutions, and the latest trends
equipment brands ITEMA, and TOYOTA; Iconic knitting
within the textile and garment industry. Additionally, they
machinery brands LISKY, PAI LUNG, FUKAHAMA,
contribute to fostering technological innovation across
CIXING, SHIMA SEIKI, KARL MAYER STOLL,
various facets of the entire textile and garment supply
and BEWORTH; major dyeing equipment suppliers
chains. Throughout the exhibition, suppliers from around
CANLAR, FONG’S, and DILMENLER; high-profile
the world will interact with local customers and develop
international brands of printing machinery specialists
new business opportunities. It is predicted that more than
such as MIMAKI, COLOREEL, and HOMER.
40,000 trade visitors will attend and conduct purchasing
on-site in the 4-day show. Furthermore, IMA, KURIS, RICHPEACE, and FK
Group will showcase garment-cutting machines; TAJIMA
Cutting-edge machinery from top global brands
will feature the number one embroidering machines; and
Expect a convergence of over 1,100 globally renowned there will be the world’s leading provider of industrial
brands from 32 countries and regions, occupying 1,600 machine needles from GROZ-BECKERT and KERN-
booths across 9 fully opened halls. As the cornerstone LIEBERS–DTG 2024 is your gateway to the latest
of Bangladesh's flourishing economy, DTG 2024 is the advancements.
driving force behind the nation's rapid growth, with the

January 2024
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 13
Source:DTG 2023

Hall 3 will special feature in DitaTex for various kinds on a topic of industry analysis, technology and process,
of apparel fabrics, accessories, and fibers to meet market automation, and implementing sustainability in textile
demands. The Taiwan Textile Federation (TTF) will lead industry. The seminars are an important opportunity
a group of high-quality Taiwanese companies, adding for the textile and garment industry to come together
an international flair to the vibrant showcase. Notably, and discuss how they can address the challenges and
renowned industry giant ASIA FIBRE will participate for opportunities facing the sector.
the second consecutive year, underscoring the significance
The Rise of Bangladesh’s Textile and Garment Industry
of DitaTex and highlighting the exhibition's appeal as a
prominent industry event. Bangladesh's textile and garment industry is gearing up
for a thrilling growth trajectory, poised to claim more than
A series of seminar sessions will be hosted from 1 to 4
10% of the global market share by 2025, as forecasted by
February. Numerous keynote speakers from influential
the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters
industry associations and enterprise, sharing professional
Association (BGMEA). This optimistic outlook is
expertise and exploring advancements of technologies
driven by an anticipated surge in demand and a strategic
advantage in the evolving global sourcing landscape, where
countries are increasingly diversifying their supply chains.

According to the insights provided by CAL Bangladesh,


a leading financial services firm in Sri Lanka, the apparel
sector in Bangladesh had a brief dip in 2023. However, all
signs point to a strong rebound in 2024 which will help
the sector’s exports reach US $56 billion by 2026. DTG
provides comprehensive solutions for the entire textile and
garment manufacturing chains

DTG 2024 is more than an exhibition; it's a


comprehensive solution provider for the entire textile and
garment manufacturing chain. As we head into 2024,
Source:DTG 2023
DTG remains committed to aligning with global industry

14 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy January 2024


2024 The 18th Dhaka Int'l Textile & Garment Machinery Exhibition
2024 The 18th Dhaka Int'l Textile and Apparel Accessories Exhibition
2024 Dhaka Int'l Dyeing & Chemical Industry Exhibition

Venue: ICCB - International Convention City Bashundhara

Date: 1-4 February 2024:

February 1 (Thu.) - 3 (Sat.), 2024 12:00 – 20:00


Time:
February 4 (Sun.), 2024 12:00 – 19:30

1.Trade visitors and professionals only


Admission:
2. Children under 16 are not admitted entry

trends, connecting with worldwide supply chains, and leader in organizing Exhibitions & Trade Fairs in ASEAN
addressing the ever-growing demands of the sector. and South Asia for over three decades. Yorkers have
held numerous machinery-related events in Bangladesh,
Don't miss the chance to engage with key players in the
Cambodia, Myanmar ,Thailand and Vietnam. Having
industry, both international and domestic, all under one
amassed abundant experiences in the field, Yorkers Trade
roof. This platform offers a unique opportunity to stay
Fairs will serve as the best platforms for exploring trade
ahead of market trends and immerse
opportunities in the emerging markets.
yourself in the innovative currents of the textile and
» Vietnam Exhibitions: https://www.chanchao.com.tw/
garment sector. Stay tuned for further updates on DTG
Vietnam-expo/
2024 – where innovation meets opportunity!
» Bangladesh Exhibitions: https://www.chanchao.com.
For further information, please visit the official website:
tw/Bangladesh-expo/
https://www.chanchao.com.tw/DTG , or Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/DTGexpo . » Cambodia Exhibitions: https://www.chanchao.com.
tw/Cambodia-expo/
Yorkers Trade & Marketing Service Co.,
Ltd. » Myanmar Exhibitions: https://www.chanchao.com.tw/
Myanmar-expo/
Yorkers Trade & Marketing Service Co. Ltd. has been a

Show Management
Chan Chao International Co., Ltd.

International Sales Office

Mr. Neal Chen T: +886-2-26596000 ext.202


textile@chanchao.com.tw
Ms. Hannah Chou T: +886-2-26596000 ext.183

Marketing Department

Ms. Ching Pien T: +886-2-26596000 ext.265 chingpien@chanchao.com.tw

For more information, please visit:https://www.chanchao.com.tw/DTG

January 2024
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 15
Pompeii’s ancient textile dyeing
technique comes to life
Asif Iqbal

Pompeii, the ancient Roman city that was buried under


volcanic ash and pumice in AD 79, is famous for its
incredible frescoes, mosaics, and sculptures that showcase
the artistic and cultural achievements of its people.
However, there's a lesser-known aspect of Pompeii's
history that deserves attention: the textile industry. Textile
dyeing, in particular, was a thriving craft that involved
intricate techniques, various materials, and vibrant results.

Reviving Ancient Techniques:


Designer and traditional dyer Claudio Cutuli prepares a rubia tinctorum, rose madder,
A new project inside the Pompeii archaeological park is bringing to make a Pompeii red to dye his own line of clothing-Trisha Thomas/AP

back ancient textile dyeing techniques to shed light on the daily Archaeologist Sophie Hay reveals that the working
life of Pompeii before its tragic destruction. This project aims conditions for these slaves were harsh, as they had to
to show that history isn't just about grand monuments and endure the heat, noise, and fumes of the dyeing process.
beautiful paintings but also about the ordinary activities and
skills of the people who lived in the past. Bringing Pompeii to Life:
The project takes inspiration from frescoes discovered For Zuchtriegel, textile dyeing is a way to bring Pompeii
within the archaeological site. These frescoes depict winged back to life for modern visitors. He emphasizes that
cupids dyeing cloth, gathering grapes for wine, and creating history isn't just about grand monuments and beautiful
perfumes. These images highlight the significance of textile paintings but also about the daily life, economy, and
dyeing in Pompeii's society, as it was used for clothing, experiences of the majority, which are often overlooked.
furnishings, and rituals. Textile dyeing also provided Additionally, textile dyeing remains a relevant and
income and social status, especially for women who were sustainable craft that can inspire contemporary fashion
actively involved in its production and trade. and culture.

The project is led by Gabriel Zuchtriegel, the director This project is part of a larger initiative called the Pompeii
of the archaeological site, in collaboration with Claudio Commitment, which aims to promote the conservation
Cutuli, one of the world's few remaining master dyers. and enhancement of the archaeological site as well as
Cutuli uses natural ingredients like rose madder, walnut its social and environmental responsibility. The initiative
husks, elderberries, and cardamom to recreate the includes various activities and events such as exhibitions,
Pompeiian color palette, which includes shades of red, workshops, concerts, and conferences that explore the
brown, black, gray, yellow, and green. He dyes scarves themes of heritage, sustainability, and innovation.
with motifs inspired by the House of Vetti frescoes, which
The project is supported by the Italian Ministry of
belonged to a wealthy merchant family.
Culture, the European Union, and the UNESCO World
Supporting Restoration Efforts: Heritage Centre. These organizations recognize Pompeii
as a unique and universal treasure that needs protection
Half of the profits from the sale of these scarves will and appreciation from the global community.
contribute to further restoration efforts at Pompeii.
Recently, gardeners recreated a nursery with plants that The scarves are available for purchase online at the official
were used for dyeing before the city's destruction. Garden website of the archaeological site and at the museum shop
historian Maurizio Bartolini explains that roots, bark, and inside the park. The project will continue until the end of
flowers were commonly used in dyeing, with rosehip being 2024 and will be accompanied by educational materials
a popular choice for creating a soft pink color. such as videos, podcasts, and articles that explain the
history and techniques of textile dyeing in Pompeii.
Frescoes within the archaeological site depict wealthy
Pompeiians dressed in vibrant colors. Achieving these By reviving ancient textile dyeing techniques, this project
hues involved boiling dyed textiles in metal-lined vats at aims to showcase another fascinating aspect of Pompeii's
workshops run by slaves, who wore plain brown tunics. history and celebrate its rich and diverse cultural heritage.

16 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy January 2024


Saurer OpenHouse 2024:
a platform for knowledge
sharing and innovation
Sayed Abdullah

Figure 2: Keynote speaker Dr Chokri Cherif at OpenHouse.

The textile industry is constantly automation, and recycling. The has developed a technology for rotor
evolving, and industry leaders must remarkable speaker's program spinning that for the first time allows
stay updated on the latest trends and included representatives from industry the production of melange yarns with
innovations. To achieve this, Saurer, partners such as Textechno Herbert a flexible mixing ratio directly on the
a leading textile machinery company, Stein (Felix Liebhold) and Tailorlux Autocoro. The semi-automatic rotor
hosted for the first time the OpenHouse (Tobias Herzog). Additionally, spinning machine BD Filea specialises
2024 event on January 12 and 13. ITMF (Christian Schindler) provided in the production of elastane covered
an outlook on textile market yarns. These innovative yarns
This new format brought together
development. are suitable for a wide range of
industry experts from academia,
applications, including stretch fabrics
consulting, and industry, showcasing Customers and other visitors had
for garments. Notably, the spinning of
the latest advancements in the chance to explore the new
100% cotton on Autoairo also drew
textile technology and fostering Saurer Sustainability Hub, an
significant attention from visitors The
collaborative discussions on innovation space that showcases
Saurer OpenHouse 2024 also featured
prevailing megatrends. and explores advancements in
factory tours and workshops on the
textile manufacturing. It includes a
The event featured an impressive Saurer Academy, providing valuable
showroom, a spinning development
lineup of esteemed speakers, including knowledge-sharing opportunities,
centre, textile technology consulting
Prof. Chokri Cherif from Dresden as well as presentations on Saurer's
services, and a machine research
Technical University in Germany digital solutions, including the digital
centre. This hub serves as a platform
and Prof. Thomas Gries from RWTH Senses platform and the e-commerce
for fostering innovative solutions,
Aachen University in Germany, who solution, Secos.
sustainability, and collaboration
shared their expertise and insights into
within the textile industry. The central concept of the event
sustainable business opportunities and
was to establish a space for fruitful
future developments in the industry. One of the highlights was the world-
discussions and idea-sharing that
premiere presentations of Saurer's
Dr Uwe Rondé, Group CEO of could help tackle the challenges faced
innovative machinery: from the
Saurer, presented an outlook on the by the industry. The visitors' feedback
machine-based automation of the
company's latest innovations and its was overwhelmingly positive and
BD480 and BD8 machines with doffer
commitment to supporting customers showed that the textile industry needs
to the Autocoro Melange. Saurer
in energy-saving, digitalisation, this kind of informative exchange.

January 2024
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 17
Dilo Group advancing
sustainability through
decades of innovation
and detail
TST Interview

Headquartered in Germany,
Dilo Group is a leading supplier
of complete lines for nonwoven
fabric production, traditionally
specialized in all types of needling
lines for staple fiber products as
well as high-speed needle looms
for spunbonds. Recently, Johann-
Philipp Dilo, CEO of Dilo Group,
spoke to TexSPACE Today about
the company’s latest developments
in the nonwoven sector for
sustainability and energy saving.
Philipp Dilo has also been President
of Textile Machinery Association
of VDMA from 2005 to 2008,
and a member of the CEMATEX
Board during the same period.
Figure: Johann-Philipp Dilo, CEO of Dilo Group.

TexSPACE Today: As we know Dilo is a pioneer name when producing light weights in a range of 40 – 100 g/
among the nonwoven machinery lines, please give us an sqm used in the hygiene sector in comparison with other
overview of how important is sustainability and energy consolidation technologies.
saving in the current business landscape for Dilo Group.
These energy savings are a decisive feature considering the
Johann Philipp Dilo: Dilo has launched at ITMA 2023 increase in energy costs for gas and electricity. Concerning
its ‘MicroPunch’ intensive needling technology which sustainability Dilo is engaged together with our partners
provides a potential for energy savings, particularly Dell’Orco & Villani and TechnoPlants in the area of

18 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy January 2024


recycling textile garments through a mechanical tearing TexSPACE Today: Have you observed any changes in
process to reclaim staple fiber useful as fiber material in customer preferences or market demand for sustainable
the nonwoven process. nonwoven solutions? How do sustainability and energy-
saving features influence the market acquisition of Dilo
TexSPACE Today: What are the latest technological
Group's nonwoven lines?
developments that Dilo Group has implemented to
enhance sustainability in nonwoven production? Johann Philipp Dilo: The awareness of the importance
of line installations which provide energy savings and
Johann Philipp Dilo: Mechanical recycling for textile
improve sustainability within a recycling process has been
fiber requires nonwoven machinery and components
improving significantly over the last 3 to 5 years.
specifically designed to provide easy access to machines
for cleaning and maintenance through an elaborate The energy savings, however, as a technical feature
concept of dedusting through vacuuming particular areas is ready to be included in complete installations of
of the fiber processing machinery. production lines. The sustainability process and
organization of recycling of garment and reclaiming
TexSPACE Today: Can you please discuss Dilo Group's
textile clippings through the tearing process is a complex
approach to energy efficiency in nonwoven production
task; particularly when the aim is to deviate from the
facilities? Are there any cutting-edge technologies
current “downcycling” principles where garment waste
that Dilo Group is incorporating to reduce energy
ends in lower-grade nonwovens applications only used as
consumption and the environmental footprint?
insulation or cushioning as an underlay.
Johann Philipp Dilo: Up to ca. 50% of the energy
The subject of upgrading waste fiber applications to
consumption in a nonwoven line is associated with the
quality nonwovens requires close cooperation among
pneumatic fiber transport within the process of fiber
garment producers, consumers and the recycling industry
preparation, opening and blending and supplying the
e.g.
fiber to the web forming equipment. This includes also
the dedusting and recycling of fiber within the production TexSPACE Today: What is the vision for the future of
line. Dilo Group in terms of sustainability and energy-saving
practices in the nonwoven sector? Are there upcoming
Dilo’s DILOWATT system can be applied to reduce the
projects or developments that you can share, focusing on
amount of energy needed for pneumatic fiber transport by
furthering sustainability goals?
adapting the fan speed of airflow and the exhaust capacity
for dedusting to the real measured requirements. Johann Philipp Dilo: Dilo Group is ready to include
the concepts of “MicroPunch” and DILOWATT in the
TexSPACE Today: What challenges does Dilo Group
deliveries of complete lines and is currently providing
face in implementing sustainable and energy-efficient
a testing facility for the development of new nonwoven
technologies in their nonwoven machinery? And how
products through “MicroPunch”. Also, applications of
did you overcome it?
artificial intelligence assisting the operation of complete
Johann Philipp Dilo: Through our continued lines is researched in cooperation with our partners. The
improvement process the requirements to improve engineering for complete lines for recycling garments is
sustainability and energy efficiency have been a long- offered.
term process over the years through many detailed
TexSPACE Today: Is there anything else you would
improvements and innovations.
like to highlight regarding Dilo Group's commitment
TexSPACE Today: As the industry cares more about the to sustainability and energy efficiency in the nonwoven
Circular Economy and Recycling, what steps are Dilo sector?
Group taking to support the nonwoven manufacturing
Johann Philipp Dilo: Generally speaking, Dilo is
industry? Are there any projects or technologies at Dilo
convinced that needling line solutions and the related
Group that focus on recycling or upcycling nonwoven
technology based on staple fiber are offering highly
materials?
advanced web forming and consolidation. The needling
Johann Philipp Dilo: This whole area of recycling is technology particularly features a large potential for
covered by Dilo as the general contractor and Dilo’s energy-efficient production including sustainability
cooperation with the specialists of tearing equipment through the recycling of textile waste. Needling lines
Messrs. Dell’Ocro & Villani and TechnoPlants for specific are among those technologies that include a long-term
aerodynamic web formation. potential for a successful future.

January 2024
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 19
Trützschler TC-30i sets a
new standard in carding
M A Mohiemen Tanim

Trützschler TC 30i carding machine unveiled at the 2023


ITMA, it sparked excitement with its innovative features
that elevate both performance and sustainability. Now, the
TC 30i is officially available, ready to redefine carding for
years to come.

Boosting Output and Quality:


The TC 30i boasts a 35% increase in active flats and a CONTROL system minimizes unnecessary fiber loss,
14% longer carding length, amplified by the intelligent promoting the economical use of raw materials.
gap optimizer T-GO. This translates to 20% higher yarn
production and superior yarn quality thanks to improved Tailored Solutions for Every Need:
fiber distribution. Recognizing the diverse needs of the industry, Trützschler
offers a dedicated TC 30i version specifically for textile
Consistency Without Compromise:
recycling. This model tackles the challenges of processing
T-GO doesn’t just enhance performance; it ensures secondary fibers, ensuring efficient and eco-friendly
operator-independent efficiency. Its automatic and production with recycled materials.
continuous carding gap setting guarantees consistent
results every time, regardless of operator skill level. The Future of Carding is Now:
The TC 30i isn’t just a machine; it’s a revolutionary leap in
Sustainable Production, Reduced Waste:
carding technology. Its focus on performance, consistency,
The TC 30i prioritizes environmental responsibility. A and sustainability makes it the ideal partner for textile
redesigned suction system separates waste types, enabling manufacturers seeking to maximize quality, optimize
50% card waste reuse. Additionally, the proven WASTE production, and minimize environmental impact.

20 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy January 2024


Manifattura Ceccarelli
and Halley Stevensons
collaborate to make
waterproof denim
M A Mohiemen Tanim

Manifattura Ceccarelli, an Italian brand founded in 1998 with a special process that makes it waterproof while
by Giuliano Ceccarelli, has partnered with Candiani retaining its traditional look and feel. The inside of the
Denim and Halley Stevensons Ltd to create a capsule jackets is lined with pure wool from sheep raised in
collection of waterproof denim jackets. The Italy, 90% wool fur, and 100% cotton tartan fabric.
collection, called "Water-Repellent and
Warm Denim," includes three jackets: The Collection
the Denim Fisherman Parka, the The "Water-Repellent and Warm Denim"
Denim Heavy Shirt, and the Denim collection will be available in fall-
Deck Jacket. winter 2024. The three jackets in the
collection are:
The Challenge of
Waterproof Denim » The Denim Fisherman Parka:
A long parka with a hood and
Denim is a popular fabric
plenty of pockets.
known for its durability
and functionality. » The Denim Heavy Shirt: A
However, it is not thick shirt that can be worn
traditionally waterproof. on its own or under a jacket.
This makes it unsuitable
» The Denim Deck Jacket:
for rainy or snowy
A short jacket with a classic
weather. Giuliano
sailor style.
Ceccarelli wanted
to find a way to use The Future of
denim in his collections Waterproof Denim
all year round, so
The collaboration between
he partnered with
Manifattura Ceccarelli,
Candiani Denim and
Candiani Denim, and
Halley Stevensons Halley Stevensons Ltd
Ltd to develop a shows that it is possible to
waterproof denim make denim waterproof
fabric. without sacrificing its
traditional look and feel.
The Solution
This could lead to the development of more waterproof
Candiani Denim provided the raw denim for the denim garments in the future.
collection. Halley Stevensons Ltd then finished the fabric

January 2024
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 21
Arvind & Gap partner on
world’s first water innovation
hub for apparel sustainability
Asif Iqbal

Water is a major challenge for the


textile and apparel industry, which
is one of the largest consumers and
polluters of water in the world.
According to the World Bank, the
textile industry uses about 93 billion
cubic meters of water annually,
equivalent to 4% of the global
freshwater withdrawal. Moreover, the
textile industry discharges about 20%
of the global industrial wastewater,
which contains harmful chemicals,
dyes, and microfibers that contaminate
the environment and affect human
and animal health.

Arvind Ltd. and Gap Inc. have


largest textile manufacturers in the Gap has also launched various
come together to address an urgent
world, has been a pioneer in water programs and partnerships to promote
and complex issue by launching the
conservation and stewardship in water innovation and collaboration,
Global Water Innovation Centre
India, where water scarcity and such as the Water Quality Program,
for Action (GWICA) at Arvind's
pollution are severe problems. Arvind the Mill Sustainability Program, the
Santej unit near Ahmedabad, India.
has implemented various initiatives Women + Water Alliance, and the
The centre, inaugurated on January
to reduce its water footprint, such as Apparel Impact Institute.
13, 2024, aims to improve water
rainwater harvesting, water recycling,
management practices in the global GWICA is the culmination of Arvind
zero liquid discharge, and water
textile and apparel industry. It will and Gap's joint efforts to create a
replenishment. Arvind has also
provide a collaborative platform for global hub for water innovation in
developed innovative products and
apparel companies, manufacturing the textile industry and to inspire and
processes that use less water, such as
suppliers, vendors, sustainability empower other industry players to join
waterless denim, indigo dyeing, and
experts, academics, and environmental the movement. GWICA is located
digital printing.
stakeholders. GWICA will showcase at Arvind's Santej unit, which is a
innovations, share best practices Gap, which is one of the largest state-of-the-art facility that showcases
and technological advancements, apparel retailers in the world, Arvind's water-saving technologies
and offer training and education for has also been a leader in water and practices, such as the sewage water
industry professionals and students. sustainability in the industry through treatment plant that uses membrane
This partnership demonstrates a its comprehensive water stewardship bioreactor technology to eliminate the
shared commitment to sustainability, strategy that covers its entire value use of freshwater in denim processing
collaboration, and making tangible changes chain, from design to sourcing to and the rainwater harvesting system
in the apparel manufacturing industry. stores. Gap has set ambitious goals that collects and stores rainwater for
to reduce its water consumption, irrigation and groundwater recharge.
Arvind and Gap have a long-standing
improve its water quality, and increase GWICA covers an area of 18,000
relationship that spans over two
its water efficiency, as well as to square feet and is constructed from
decades and share a common vision
support water access and sanitation sustainable materials such as bamboo,
of taking action to address the water
for the communities where it operates. recycled wood, and fly ash bricks.
crisis. Arvind, which is one of the

22 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy January 2024


Refiberd: Revolutionizing Textile Waste
Management with AI and Advanced Imaging
Faujia Mushtari

In the heart of the global textile waste crisis, a formidable


team of engineers has risen to the challenge. Refiberd,
a women-led initiative, was founded with a vision to
leverage cutting-edge AI research to revolutionize the
fashion industry's approach to sustainability. Spearheaded
by Sarika Bajaj as the Co-Founder & Chief Executive
Officer and Tushita Gupta as the Co-Founder & Chief
Technology Officer, along with Julia Chatterjee, Research
Associate, and Georg Menzl, PhD, AI Research Scientist,
the team is on a mission to bring about a 100% circular
economy.

Technology at the Core


Refiberd's approach to addressing textile waste is
grounded in a fusion of artificial intelligence and
textile engineering. They firmly believe that the key
to a sustainable future lies in innovative technological
applications and cutting-edge processes. To realize The camera captures lines of hyperspectral data from the
this vision, they have developed an advanced material moving textile at a specified framerate.
detection system using AI-based hyperspectral imaging.
Data Stitching: The collected data is then stitched
Advanced Material Detection through together by a computer to create a hyperspectral cube. In
Hyperspectral Imaging this cube, each pixel of the image represents a spectrum.

At the heart of Refiberd's technology is a state-of-the-art Machine Learning: The hyperspectral cube is processed
hyperspectral imaging system. This technology operates on by a machine learning model, which has been trained
the principle of analyzing how light interacts with different on a proprietary dataset of thousands of custom textile
materials based on their chemical composition. This unique samples. The model outputs a prediction of the material
approach enables the identification of various materials composition of the textile, providing a comprehensive
by detecting their distinct light absorption and reflection understanding of the fibers present.
patterns. The hyperspectral imaging system is meticulously
tuned for the most sensitive detection of textile fiber
AI-Powered Precision
types. It can even discern trace amounts of materials and Refiberd's technology goes beyond mere detection;
contamination, showcasing its efficacy in addressing the it accurately identifies the composition of materials,
intricate challenges of textile waste management. including blended and layered fibers. The power of
their artificial intelligence lies in its ability to process
The Process Unveiled hyperspectral imaging data with unparalleled accuracy,
Hyperspectral Imaging: The textile is placed beneath ensuring a robust solution for textile waste sorting.
the hyperspectral camera along with a line light source.
Refiberd's commitment to a circular economy is evident in
their innovative application of technology. By combining AI
and hyperspectral imaging, they have created a solution that
not only detects but also comprehensively identifies materials
in textile waste. This marks a significant step forward in the
journey towards sustainable fashion and a waste-free future.

In conclusion, Refiberd stands as a beacon of


technological innovation in the fight against textile waste,
showcasing the potential of AI to reshape industries for a
more sustainable tomorrow.

January 2024
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 23
Smart Glove is helping stroke
patients regain their grip on life
M A Mohiemen Tanim

Imagine losing the ability to perform


the simplest of tasks, like buttoning
a shirt or tying your shoelaces. For
stroke survivors, this is a harsh reality
that can be both physically and
emotionally debilitating. But what if
there was a way to help them regain
their independence and control?

Enter the smart glove, a new device


that is offering a glimmer of hope
to stroke patients struggling with
hand mobility. Developed by a team
of researchers at the University of
British Columbia, this innovative
glove is not just a piece of clothing;
it’s a sophisticated rehabilitation tool The potential applications of the smart glove extend far
that has the potential to transform lives. beyond traditional rehabilitation. The researchers envision
a future where the glove could be used in virtual reality
The glove is made of a soft, stretchy fabric embedded with
environments to help patients practice everyday tasks in a
sensors that can detect even the slightest movement of the
safe and simulated setting. It could also be integrated with
fingers and hand. This data is then transmitted to a computer
augmented reality systems to provide real-time guidance
program that analyzes it and provides real-time feedback to
and support during daily activities.
the user. This feedback can take many forms, from visual
cues on a screen to gentle vibrations in the glove itself. The possibilities are truly endless, and the impact on
patients’ lives could be profound. Regaining the ability to
The beauty of the smart glove lies in its ability to
use their hands is not just about regaining physical function;
personalize rehabilitation therapy. By tailoring the
it’s about regaining independence, dignity, and a sense of
exercises to the individual patient’s needs and abilities, the
control. For stroke survivors, the smart glove is more than
glove can help them make significant progress in regaining
just a medical device; it’s a beacon of hope, a symbol of
their hand function. For some patients, this might mean
their unwavering determination to reclaim their lives.
simply being able to grasp a cup or hold a utensil. For
others, it could mean regaining the dexterity to write, play Beyond the Technical: A Human Touch
an instrument, or even return to their previous job.
While the technology behind the smart glove is impressive,
it’s important to remember that it is just one tool in the
overall rehabilitation process. The true key to success lies
in the human touch, in the dedication and compassion of
“Imagine being able to accurately capture hand movements
therapists and caregivers. The smart glove is not meant to
and interactions with objects and have it automatically
replace human interaction; it is meant to augment it, to
display on a screen. There are endless applications. You
provide patients with the support and guidance they need
can type text without needing a physical keyboard, control
to reach their full potential.
a robot, or translate American Sign Language into written
speech in real time, providing easier communication for The story of the smart glove is not just about technology; it’s
individuals who are deaf or hard of hearing.” about human resilience and the power of hope. It’s a testament
to the unwavering spirit of those who have faced adversity and
Dr. Peyman Servati
UBC electrical and computer engineering professor emerged stronger. And it is a reminder that even in the darkest
of times, there is always a reason to believe in a brighter future.

24 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy January 2024


Vivobarefoot & Balena partner
on 3D-printed biodegradable
shoe innovation
Saiful Islam Saad

Certified B Corporation Vivobarefoot and Balena are carbon dioxide equivalent (CO2e) in total, or 270kg CO2e
creating circular 3D-printed shoes utilizing biomimetic per person. While the previous pathways focused on
design ideas, additive manufacturing processes, and ‘slowing down the loop’, the last pathway on recycling and
Balena's BioCir flex material promising to be biodegradable material reuse ‘closes the loop’. By reducing resource use
and recyclable in the must needed era for sustainability. and prolonging the useful life of textiles, the sustainability
model enables the loop to be closed by turning waste
Vivobarefoot is a minimalist running shoe manufacturer.
textiles into raw material for new textiles or other
Their technique, designed by Tim Brennan and developed
production chains. Effective and biodegradable materials
by British shoe firm Terra Plana, aims to provide the
usage with the footwear can drastically reduce carbon
best biomechanics and posture associated with barefoot
emission from the earth.
walking and barefoot running, and is widely promoted
in the barefoot movement and barefoot running Fig: VivoBarefoot and Balena with an ambitious new
communities. Balena is trying to give their high tech input partnership to address the harmful impacts of the
in the cause to make the desired goal fulfilled throughout footwear industry through the combination of technology
the worldBalena, founded in 2020, is a material science and material science inspired by nature.
company that provides biobased, compostable, recyclable
Balena’s 3D-printing specific material - the BioCir3D
thermoplastic materials such as BioCir® for a variety
- being based on the BioCir®flex technology, maintains
of industries. BioCir® uniquely combines the high-
high flexibility similar to TPU, providing reliable and
performance properties such as durability and flexibility of
long-lasting 3D-printed products. At the same time, it
traditional plastics with the ability to biodegrade safely in
is biobased and industrially compostable, reducing the
industrial compost facilities when the products reach the
environmental impact of discarded prints and for the first
end of their life.
time enabling 3D printing of flexible and durable items
The production and consumption of textiles generate while giving them the unique property of biodegradability.
greenhouse gas emissions, in particular from resource
Shoes disintegrate slowly, and certain materials can
extraction, production, washing and drying, and waste
linger in landfills for hundreds of years. The American
incineration.Textile products consumed in the EU
Textile Recycling Service estimates that the recycling
generated greenhouse gas emissions of 121 million tonnes
rate for footwear is a meager 13%, yet they make up a

January 2024
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 25
major amount of landfill rubbish. Traditional TPU is not
biodegradable and adds to plastic waste. Its BioCir®flex
substance is a high-performance, long-lasting, flexible,
totally industrially biodegradable, and recyclable
thermoplastic elastomer. It has more than 50% bio-
based content and actively lowers reliance on harmful,
fossil fuel-based materials often utilized in the footwear
industry, such as TPU.

The remarkable adaption of 3D printing is also seen in


the case of Vivobarefoot shoes and their modification.
Shoemakers have been experimenting with 3D printing
for years. Adidas, NikeNKE, New Balance, Dior, Reebok,
and Fendi are among the top footwear and apparel brands
to release 3D-printed limited edition shoes. The use of
3D printing has been causing a revolution in the billion- Fig: VivoBarefoot and Balena with an ambitious new partnership to address the
harmful impacts of the footwear industry through the combination of technology and
dollar shoe business for some time now.3D printing material science inspired by nature.

allows manufacturers to make each pair of shoes on-


up with the demand of the customers having more
demand, or at least fewer pairs, attracting those looking
down to earth technological fashion items on their
to reduce waste. There's also the appeal of having greater
shelf. The reasonable understanding of the necessity of
freedom to create shoes for particular consumers and alter
nature induced items such as biodegradable shoes can
designs more frequently without incurring the exorbitant
revolutionalize the footwear industry as a whole. More
expenditures of new production molds and tooling.
sustainable textiles such as vivobarefoot can be a way
The world is going towards a circular future in this era ahead for the upcoming war with fashion waste.
of technology. Global fashion brands are tyring to cope

Deha & Emana®’s innovative leggings


pamper your skin with every step
Sayed Abdullah

DEHA, the lifestyle brand with roots depends on the garment the special
in dance and movement has chosen yarn is used in. In this way the simple
EMANA® Perfect Skin technology – style of the DHA leggings combines
produced and distributed in Europe with the functional benefits of
exclusively by Fulgar – to create two Fulgar’s EMANA® Perfect Skin fibre.
sets of leggings, a long and a Capri
Once put on these garments help
model.
reduce the unsightly appearance
EMANA® Perfect Skin is an of cellulite and enhance the skin’s
OEKO-TEX® Class I certified smart elasticity and tone while ensuring
Figure: DEHA has chosen EMANA® Perfect Skin
polyamide-based yarn produced using outstanding comfort and well-being technology to create two sets of leggings, a long and a
Capri model.
technology that transforms body during movement, as they are super-
warmth into energy, developed and breathable. benefits and are the ideal response to
patented by RHODIA – SOLVAY the requirements of today’s aware,
As a result the DEHA leggings, made
GROUP. Through the bio-active demanding female consumers.
with Fulgar’s EMANA® Perfect
minerals contained in the fibre the
Skin yarn, are the ideal choice for DEHA leggings with EMANA®
EMANA® technology absorbs the
all dynamic, sport-loving women Perfect Skin by Fulgar are on sale at
warmth of the human body and
seeking a product that provides deha.it and at authorised retailers.
restores it naturally to the skin in the
maximum effectiveness in terms The price ranges from 59.90 euro
form of far infrared rays, stimulating
of micro-circulation in the skin. for the Capri version to 69.90 for the
the micro-circulation of blood in
These activewear garments offer a long version.
the skin. The action of EMANA®
unique combination of distinctive

26 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy January 2024


Sqim secures €11m to grow mycelium-
based sustainable fashion materials
Homayra Anjumi Hoque

A new wave of material innovation is meaningful demonstration of effective quality, luxury materials for the fashion
emerging from the natural power of opportunities to truly "make things industry. The process is environmentally
fungal mycelia. A renowned biotech better", through technologies and friendly and uses no chrome, and Mogu
company Inarzo (Italy based SQIM), products that significantly reduce is expected to easily expand into other
formerly known as Mogu SRL, environmental impact and promote segments and markets.
holds the credit behind this flagship. sustainable activities.
The company, which specializes Roadmap to an ambitious
in mycelium-based technologies How SQIM is pivoting the
for various industries, has secured transformation of agro
€11m ($12m) in a Series A funding industry residues:
round led by CDP Venture Capital
By doing fermentation, Mogu
and supported by ECBF VC, Kering
transforms low-value materials
Ventures, and Progress Tech Transfer.
and waste from the agricultural
The funds will enable Sqim to launch
industry into functional, low-impact,
a dedicated demo plant to showcase
high-value materials. They utilizes
its industrial scale-up and expand
mycelium as a biofabrication agent. To Fig: Mycelium- The future is Fungi
its product lines, Ephea and Mogu,
date, the company has developed two
which offer sustainable and circular
main verticals: Expansion; Words from the
solutions for fashion, automobiles and
CEO:
so on. » MOGU, a specialized architecture
and interior design brand offering a Stefano Babbini, CEO and co-founder
Founded in 2015 and globally
variety of wall, floor and acoustic of SQIM, expressed great pride in
recognized as a pioneer in mycelium-
treatment products the company's achievements. He
based technology, SQIM is a
emphasized that SQIM's diligent
multidisciplinary, innovation-driven » EPHEA, aims for producing animal
efforts over the years aiming to
biotechnology and biomaterials free materials for automobiles and
demonstrate that innovation,
company. SQIM is at the forefront of luxury fashion industries.
sustainability and industrialization
materials innovation, continuously
In this project, mushroom mycelia can coexist and add value to various
delivering innovative materials and
complex substrates (the ingredient industries.
products by harnessing the natural
base that the mycelium feeds on) are
power of mycelium. Today, SQIM He said to an interview, “I’m
converted into a palatable biomass
serves markets such as fashion, extremely proud of what we just
that is rich in proteins and other
interior design, furniture and achieved. SQIM team has been
valuable nutrients. The production of
automobiles. working very hard in the last years
fungal mycelium can be divided into
with the mission of proving that
SQIM's approach incorporates a two main fermentation techniques:
innovation, sustainability, and
solid- or liquid-state fermentation.
industrialisation can not only co-exist
Both approaches are pursued within
but even offer added value to different
the Smart Protein project, with
industries whether properly cooked.
Mogu focusing on the former and
This amazing company step represents
Fraunhofer IME-BR on the latter.
the natural outcome of such efforts,
The company says this unique creating the conditions for delivering
fermentation technique interconnects a real impact in next future. There is a
selected mycelial cells to create panels huge excitement around our job, and
made entirely from mycelial biomass. we feel like we are about to start a new
These raw materials are processed journey. There is no doubt we have
Fig: Sqim plans to accelerate research and development
activities and strengthen its team to further advance its and finished in collaboration with found the best Partners supporting our
two prominent business lines and brands – Ephea and
Mogu leather industry partners into high- ambitious plan.”

January 2024
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 27
Saurer exploring
sustainable potentials for
profitable textile business
Amena Kamal Khan

Saurer Group is a globally leading


operating technology group focusing on
machinery and components for fibre and
yarn processing. As a company with a
long tradition, Saurer has always been a
leader in innovation. On the occasion of
Saurer OpenHouse 2024 event in Übach-
Palenberg – Silke Huertos López, Senior
Manager Laboratory, Saurer Group
shared with Tex SPACE Today how
Saurer is steering textile industry towards
a transformative future with fiber spinning.

Figure: Silke Huertos López, Senior Manager Laboratory, Saurer Group.

Tex SPACE Today: Kindly share your journey. in recent years, the market shift if going toward recycled
fibers and it has become a huge topic. The good thing
Silke Huertos López: I am the manager of the Saurer
for the market is that we can spin all types of recycled
textile laboratory since 2017. My involvement with Saurer
fibers – be it MMF or regenerated fiber – in all types of
is nearly two decades. I have worked for Saurer in different
spinning machine. Like ring and rotor spinning machine
positions – especially in manmade fiber (MMF) processing
i.e. automatic rotor spinning machine Autocoro 11 or
and in recycled fiber processing.
Autoairo Air spinning machine. In our textile laboratory,
For nearly two decades I have been working now for we can test recycled yarns like MMF or regenerated on
Saurer in different positions. I started as a textile engineer our all types of machines. And see how the fibers blend
for rotor-spinning and could deep-dive in the textile world with each other and react. Thus, our customers get
by visiting customers all over the world. benefitted from these extensive outcomes.

In 2017, I became the manager of the Saurer textile Tex SPACE Today: Kindly share about latest Saurer
laboratory. Now the knowledge about the textile chain helps machine we are testing here to increase sustainability.
me - together with my team and colleagues - to support our
Silke Huertos López: The latest machine we are testing here
customers and business partners with their needs.
is Autoairo Air spinning machine. Which is more regenerated
Tex SPACE Today: Kindly share about Saurer textile fiber friendly. And this machine can process all types of
laboratory. sustainable regenerated yarns like lyocell, polyester. It blends
well with cotton or viscose or any other type of fiber.
Silke Huertos López: Here in Saurer textile laboratory is
the sustainability hub in Germany. We have here nearly But the demand of the market is moving toward recycled
all the Saurer machinery. Here we do trials together with extreme – now by extreme means our Autocoro 11 can spin the
our business partners and customers. And we can see that shortest fiber or really dirty, dusty fiber or delicate material easily.

28 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy January 2024


TreeToTextile bringing
new generation of bio-
based fiber to market
US Shampa

Sweden-based TreeToTextile is a purpose-


driven technology development company.
At Heimtextil - the biggest international
trade fair for home and contract textiles - it
presented sustainable fiber technology and
showed samples of its fiber properties in
real applications.

Andreas Nilsson,
Head of Commercial at TreeToTextile in an
interview with TexSPACE Today shared its
different aspects.

Figure: Andreas Nilsson, Head of Commercial at TreeToTextile.

TexSPACE Today: Kindly share about TreeToTextile. The process uses fewer chemicals, allowing for a more
sustainable and cost-efficient process compared to
Andreas Nilsson: We are a fiber-producing company
conventional technologies and fibers. There are no sulphur
– bringing a new generation of bio-based and Research
emissions during the production and the water and the
efficient fiber to the market. The company designed
chemicals used are recycled and reused.
a process of converting the cellulose polymer into a
textile fiber with a very low carbon footprint at a low The innovation is still in development, now we are ready
environmental impact. to scale up the production, intending to bring the fiber to
the market to honor their visionary statement and also to
So, TreeToTextile is redesigning a chemical system
inspire and catalyze new game-changing innovations and
providing a fiber with a very low carbon footprint. We
collaborations.
have also created a new physical appearance of the fiber.
TexSPACE Today: Kindly share your plan for working
It has also developed a more natural and hand-filled
with companies in Asia and Europe.
MMCF which is a very good compliment to cotton and
MMCF on the market. Andreas Nilsson: Recently TreeToTextile is looking
forward to working with companies in Asia and Europe to
Here they are meeting with many value chain partners and
bring their fibre to the market. TreeToTextile has created
the response so far has been very good.
the possibility to put a new sustainable textile fiber on
TexSPACE Today: Kindly share TreeToTextile’s the market believing that the mix of competence and the
innovation. global size of owners can give them a unique opportunity
to make an impact on the textile industry for the benefit of
The TreeToTextile technology is a new innovative
the planet and everyone living on it.
chemical process – using renewable forest raw material
and regenerating the cellulose into a textile fiber by Products like bed sheets, towels, t-shirts and other close-to-
spinning the dissolving pulp. skin applications are the main products of them.

January 2024
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 29
Cloud-Based PLM Software: A
Solution for Competitive Fashion
Asif Iqbal

The fashion industry is a highly competitive and ever-


changing field.It is also one of the biggest contributors
to waste and pollution. The United Nations reports that
the fashion industry is responsible for 10% of the world's
carbon emissions and 20% of global wastewater. In fact,
it uses more energy than both the aviation and shipping
industries combined. Additionally, the fashion industry
produces a significant amount of textile waste. Only 15% of
clothing is recycled or donated, while the remaining 85% is
either thrown into landfills or burned in incinerators.

In order to tackle environmental and social issues, the


fashion industry should embrace a circular economy
approach. This approach focuses on reducing waste and
maximizing the use of resources. Instead of following a
linear model of take-make-dispose, a circular model of circular economy. They can achieve this by incorporating
reduce-reuse-recycle should be adopted. renewable and recycled materials, minimizing waste and
emissions, and improving durability and recyclability. This
Achieving a circular economy in the fashion industry is software provides designers with a centralized database
a challenging task due to various factors. These include of materials, trims, and components, along with tools to
complex and fragmented supply chains, ever-changing evaluate the environmental and social impacts of their
consumer preferences, and rapidly evolving market trends. designs, including carbon and water footprints and social
PLM software is a tool that helps fashion companies compliance. Moreover, it promotes collaboration with
manage their products and associated data throughout suppliers, manufacturers, and consumers, facilitating
their entire lifecycle, from concept to end-of-life. feedback and insights to enhance circularity.Cloud-based
This software can greatly enhance efficiency, quality, PLM software is beneficial for fashion companies as it
innovation, and profitability by simplifying processes, improves their inventory, production, and distribution
minimizing mistakes and rework, promoting processes.
collaboration, and aiding in decision-making. • Cloud-based PLM software is a helpful tool for fashion
Cloud-based PLM software refers to a type of PLM companies to maximize the lifespan and worth of their
software that is stored on the internet and can be accessed products. It provides tools and services that aid in product
through a web browser. Unlike traditional PLM software, maintenance, repair, and refurbishment.
which needs to be installed on a local server or computer, • Cloud-based PLM software is an effective tool for fashion
cloud-based PLM software offers numerous benefits. companies seeking to recycle their products and materials.
These include reduced initial costs, increased scalability, This software streamlines the collection, sorting, and
quicker implementation, simpler integration, and processing procedures and helps companies locate
improved security. and organize items ready for recycling. Additionally,
Cloud-based PLM software can also enable sustainable it assists in managing logistics and transportation for
fashion by supporting the principles and practices of the recycling operations. The software also aids in verifying
circular economy. Here are some of the ways that cloud- and validating the quality and composition of recycled
based PLM software can help fashion companies achieve materials, ensuring traceability and certification.
circularity: Moreover, it enables fashion companies to seamlessly
integrate recycled materials into new products
• Cloud-based PLM software in the fashion industry enables and effectively communicate their commitment to
designers to create products that are aligned with the sustainability to customers and stakeholders.

30 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy January 2024


TÜV SÜD, announced appointment of Liz
Fendt as Chief Sales and Marketing Officer
Desk Report

Liz Fendt

TÜV SÜD, a global leader in testing, “I am thrilled to leverage my services in the realms of digitalization
inspection, and certification services, extensive experience to enhance and sustainability, we aim to better
has announced the appointment the value our solutions bring to serve our customers,” she added.
of Liz Fendt as Chief Sales and customers and contribute to the
Based at the Group’s Headquarters
Marketing Officer, effective January positive development of TÜV SÜD
in Munich, Fendt’s role will play a
1, 2024. In her new role, Fendt will in the future,” stated Liz Fendt.
pivotal part in shaping the future
spearhead Sales, Marketing, CRM, She expressed her commitment to
trajectory of TÜV SÜD. The
and eBusiness activities at the Group utilizing an integrated approach
company looks forward to achieving
level, reporting directly to Ishan Palit, to marketing and sales, leveraging
new milestones under her leadership
COO of TÜV SÜD. digitalization to enhance customer
and capitalizing on the opportunities
interactions and satisfaction.
With a rich history within the presented by the digital age.
company since 2001, including 13 Fendt emphasized the importance
The appointment of Liz Fendt reflects
years in various locations across of aligning TÜV SÜD’s innovative
TÜV SÜD’s commitment to driving
Asia, Liz Fendt brings a wealth of services in digitalization and
growth, innovation, and customer-
experience in positioning companies sustainability to meet the evolving
centric solutions in an ever-evolving
in international markets. Her most needs of customers. “Through a
business landscape. The company
recent role as Chief Marketing cohesive strategy, we aim to utilize
anticipates that Fendt’s strategic
Officer saw her successfully lead digitalization to elevate customer
insights and global experience will
the global marketing efforts of the experiences and satisfaction. By
further strengthen its position as a
services group. combining our diverse and innovative
leader in the test

January 2024
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 31
BASF and Inditex make a
breakthrough in textile-
to-textile recycling with
loopamid ®
Hasan Mia

Figure: BASF and Inditex make a breakthrough in textile-to-textile recycling with loopamid, the first circular nylon 6 entirely based on textile waste

BASF and Inditex have announced fashion industry, which is under also working with other brands and
a breakthrough in textile-to-textile increasing pressure to reduce its retailers to develop new products
recycling with the launch of environmental impact. The textile made from loopamid®.
loopamid®, a polyamide 6 (PA6) industry is a major contributor to
Loopamid® is a promising new
made entirely from textile waste. pollution and waste, with around
technology that has the potential to
Zara has launched a jacket made 92 million tons of textiles being
revolutionize the textile industry. By
only from loopamid®, following a discarded each year. BASF is
making it possible to recycle all types
“design for recycling” approach that working to scale up production of
of PA6 textiles, loopamid could help
incorporates the material into all the loopamid® to meet the growing
to reduce the environmental impact
different elements of the product. demand for recycled materials in the
of the fashion industry and create a
fashion industry. The company is
Loopamid® is made using a new more circular economy.
technology that breaks down
textile waste into its constituent
monomers. These monomers are
then repolymerized to create new “Driving innovation is key to advancing towards a more responsible industry.
PA6 fibers and materials. The process This collaboration is a great example of how, by collaborating all together, we can
can recycle all types of PA6 textiles, use the new technology to transform textile waste into a new resource. This project
including blends with elastane. is also a first step to move towards a circular solution, as the industry still needs to
boost new collecting and recycling capacities to close the loop and scale recycling
The launch of Loopamid® is a for post-consumer waste.”
significant step forward for the Javier Losada
Inditex’s Chief Sustainability Officer

32 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy January 2024


EURATEX Manifesto 2024
calls for green transformation
M A Mohiemen Tanim

The European textile and apparel industry, a giant


employing 1.3 million people and generating €167
billion across the continent, has issued a clarion call for
sustainability in its manifesto for the upcoming 2024
European elections. The document, titled “Manifesto
for the European elections of June 2024: Turnovers,
Companies, Employment, Investments, Imports, Exports,”
outlines a roadmap for policymakers to support the
industry’s green transformation, balancing environmental
responsibility with economic competitiveness.

A Balancing Act: Green Goals with


Economic Viability
EURATEX acknowledges the urgency of tackling climate
change and resource depletion. However, it emphasizes
the need for realistic and achievable sustainability targets,
cautioning against policies that could strangle SMEs and
stifle innovation. Gradual implementation, targeted goals
for different areas, and economic feasibility are key tenets
of their approach.

From Greenwashing to Green Action


The manifesto slams “greenwashing” and calls for
standardized green claims, ensuring consumers can
make informed choices about the true sustainability of Industry Experts React: A Cautious
their garments. Transparency in supply chains is also Optimism
a major focus, allowing consumers to trace the origins
Environmental groups cautiously welcome the manifesto,
of their clothes and hold brands accountable for their
praising its focus on transparency and circularity.
environmental practices.
However, they express concerns about the vagueness of
Circular Economy: Weaving a Waste-Free some targets and urge EURATEX to translate their words
into concrete action plans.
Future
Policymakers, meanwhile, acknowledge the industry’s
EURATEX advocates for a circular economy model,
importance and the need for a sustainable future.
promoting initiatives like repair, reuse, and recycling.
However, they emphasize the need for a balanced
This not only reduces waste but also creates new jobs and
approach that prioritizes both environmental protection
extends the lifespan of garments, further minimizing the
and economic growth.
industry’s environmental impact.

Beyond Borders: A Global Call for Action A Call to Action: Weaving a Sustainable
Future for Fashion
Recognizing that environmental challenges transcend
national boundaries, EURATEX urges the EU to push for The EURATEX manifesto marks a significant step in the
global sustainability commitments. This includes tackling European textile industry’s journey towards sustainability.
unfair competition from countries with lax environmental It’s a call to action for policymakers, consumers, and the
regulations and working with trading partners to adopt industry itself to work together to create a future where
common, enforceable sustainability standards. fashion and the environment can flourish in harmony.

January 2024
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 33
Lifestyle consumers prioritize
sustainability, says Stifel survey
Mashia Sahejabin

According to a recent study, cost-conscious consumers


prioritize better value and lower prices over durability.
Cost-conscious consumers also expect companies to act
sustainably, but brands weighing in on social issues is a
high-wire act. An average of four in five US consumers
believe it is very important for brands to act sustainably.

Despite 89 percent of US consumers valuing sustainability,


only 32 percent make it a priority when shopping,
influenced by price (68 percent) and price (57 percent).

While 89 percent of US consumers still think it’s


important for brands to act sustainably, only 32 percent
prioritize sustainability in their purchasing decisions,
Lifestyle-consumers-sustainability-Stifel survey Figure: Interest in sustainability has
according to a new survey by Stifel in partnership with remained stable across the board, with 78 percent looking for a sustainable lifestyle.

Morning Consult. U.S. consumers’ preference shift


healthy work-life balance as top priorities.
toward sustainability is due to better quality (68 percent)
and lower prices (57 percent), with emphasis on lower The survey also highlighted the impact of social media
prices increasing significantly from 52 percent in 2022, on brand perception, with 67 percent of consumers aware
likely due to ongoing inflationary pressures. of brands receiving negative attention for their statements
or actions on social issues. Additionally, while 60 percent
Interestingly, interest in sustainability has remained stable
think it is important for brands to take a stance on social
across the board, with 78 percent looking for a sustainable
issues, 74 percent are willing to boycott a brand if its
lifestyle. About 63 percent are willing to pay more for
stance contradicts their own views.
a sustainable brand. The Stifel survey revealed that 56
percent of consumers want information about a brand’s Two-thirds of US consumers (67%) report that they are
sustainability practices when considering a purchase, 70 becoming aware of brands receiving too much negative
percent consider sustainability factors when choosing attention on social media for making statements or taking
between brands, and 59 percent purchase a product action on social issues.
specifically because of sustainability. These figures
By extension, European markets are showing similar
are now relatively stable compared to 2022, suggesting
trends, according to the survey. In the UK, Italy, France
continued interest in sustainable practices.
and Germany, sustainability as a purchasing priority has
Bombus, Yeti, The North Face Top “Stifel Sustainable declined significantly from the previous year. ‘Good value’
Lifestyle Brands Index “ST. LOUIS, Mo., Dec. 06, has emerged as the top consideration in these markets,
2023 (GLOBE NEWSWIRE) –US consumers’ views with most consumers in each country driving the purchase
on the importance of sustainably managed brands have decision. The importance of low price as a purchasing
already caught up with Europe’s, but concerns about priority has increased in these countries, reflecting
the economy and personal finances remain widespread economic concerns similar to those in the United States.
among consumers.
Another thing is that brands’ environmental efforts, such as
Now in terms of lifestyle changes, 78 percent of energy and water consumption, use of recycled or recycled
respondents are trying to be more sustainable in their daily materials, reduction of carbon emissions and increased
lives, an increase from 75 percent in 2022. 70 percent of public support for environmental causes, have become less
people are quite concerned about the durability of products important over the years in these European markets. But
over their one-year period. According to the survey, concerns about the economy and personal finances have
when it comes to ethical business practices, 58 percent of skyrocketed among consumers in the region over the past
consumers believe they are very important, promoting fair year, highlighting the broader impact of global economic
pay and benefits for employees, fair tax contributions, and a conditions on consumer behavior and preferences.

34 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy January 2024


Boohoo weighs closing Leicester
factory after BBC investigation
raises ethical concerns
Mashia Sahejabin

first manufacturing site for breaking promises.

Boohoo’s first manufacturing site is ‘Leicester’s


Thurmaston Leninabad’. The site, on Thurmaston Lane,
Leicester, is due to open in 2022, with Boohoo also
accepting plans to use it as a training facility.

A reporter at the firm’s headquarters witnessed reports


of staff pressuring suppliers to lower prices, even after
contracts were agreed. Buhu said the plans were in no
way related to the BBC Panorama investigation.

The Manchester-based company said fewer than 100


Figure: Thurmaston Lane in Leicester is Boohoo's first manufacturing site.
employees at the factory could be affected so it assumed Courtesy: BBC

“some roles” would be moved. QC, found a series of failings. The review concluded that
A spokesman said: “We opened Thurmaston Lane in while Buhu did not profit from deliberately poor working
January 2022 to support the group in a number of ways, practices, the firm’s monitoring of these factories was
including manufacturing, printing and training. “inadequate”.

He added “Like any retail business, our site requirements The company then introduced an agenda for change – including
evolve over time and after making a significant investment a commitment to pay its suppliers fair prices for clothing.
in our Sheffield distribution center and opening a new BBC reporter Emma Lowther worked as an
distribution center in the US, we now need to take special administrative assistant at Boohoo’s head office. He too
steps to ensure that we are a more efficient, be able to start saw these promises continually undermined during his 10
a productive and strong business. weeks in hiding.
He added: “All these factors have led us to take the Boohu said that already they have “invested significant
difficult decision to move some operations to Thurmaston time, effort and resources to drive positive change.
Lane and consider closing the site in due course. We have
now reached the decision to consult and ensure that all BBC investigation published two months ago revealed that
those affected are fully supported during this process. Boohoo had put pressure on suppliers to lower prices – even
Working diligently with colleagues. after the order was agreed. It also revealed that hundreds of
orders placed with Thurmaston Lane were actually made
2020 review found that workers in Boohoo’s Leicester by seven factories in Morocco and four in Leicester.
supply chain were not always paid their salary wages
correctly. Boohoo’s lawyers say that Thurmaston Lane only makes
1% of all Boohoo’s clothes.
Even before the firm opened its factory, it faced accusations
of mismanagement, unethical practices, poor pay and supply During the investigation, Boohoo said it “has not shied
chain failures. At the time, Boohoo said it was “committed away from addressing the problems of the past. We have
to the city of Leicester and ethical British manufacturing”. invested significant time, effort and resources to drive
However, they could not keep their promise. positive change across every aspect of our business and
supply chain”.
In 2020, Boohoo pledged to overhaul its practices after
claiming that some of its suppliers in Leicester suffered Fast fashion giant Boohoo blamed poor working
widespread abuse of employment law. conditions of its suppliers in 2020. As a result, they faced
severe criticism.
An independent review of the claims, by Alison Levitt

January 2024
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 35

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