Whale Shark Balloon

& Captain Froggie

Crochet Pattern

Whale sharks are gentle giants that roam the oceans. Usually, some smaller fish are tagging along and enjoy
the free ride. This friendly whale shark is roaming the sky and also taking along passengers in its basket. The
crochet pattern includes the instructions to crochet a Whale Shark Balloon together with its first passenger:
Captain Froggie! The passenger & basket are designed to be interchangeable. I encourage you to try out your
own color combinations, baskets & passengers!

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Materials & Tools

I’m using a 4mm crochet hook. Feel free to use whatever size you
like, but keep in mind that the size of the Whale Shark Balloon &
Crochet Hook
Captain Froggie will vary depending on the hook size and yarn
you’re using.
Whale Shark Balloon:

⬤⬤⬤⬤⬤⬤
Yarn Captain Froggie:

⬤⬤⬤⬤
I’m using 100% cotton yarn in size 4 (worsted weight).

Stuffing I’m using 100% polyester fiber fill.

The safety eyes I’m using are completely black with ø 7mm for the
Whale Shark Balloon and ø 5mm for Captain Froggie. If you’re
using heavier yarn or a bigger crochet hook, you might need to
Safety Eyes (4x) choose a bigger diameter for the eyes as well.
If you don’t have any safety eyes, you can also embroider the eyes
using black yarn.
These four pearls are needed to connect the basket to the balloon.
The pearls I’m using are roughly ø 15mm and are made of wood.
Wooden Pearl (4x) Buttons of similar size should also work. If you’re using heavier
yarn or a bigger crochet hook, you might need to choose a bigger
diameter for the pearls or buttons as well.

You’ll need a bit of crafting wire to support the ring that connects
Wire the balloon tissue to the basket. A length of about 30cm should be
long enough.

Mostly, I use a needle with a round tip to reduce the chance of

accidentally pricking myself.
Sewing Needle
For some embroidery work, I switch to a needle with a pointy tip to
make stitching through any place on a crochet work easier.

Scissors

Fixing the different body parts in place with some sewing pins will
Sewing Pins
make it easier to sew them on correctly.

Placing a stitch marker at the end of a round makes it easier to

keep track of where you currently are in the pattern, especially
Stitch Markers
when working on 3D pieces that go in continuous rounds. I’m
always just using bobby pins for this.

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General Notes

1 With the hook size and yarn type I’m using, the final Whale Shark Balloon (from top to basket at the
bottom) is around 35cm tall, and around 20cm wide (measured at the biggest part of the balloon
envelope). Captain Froggie is very small: roughly 6cm tall and 4.5cm wide.

2 The yarn colors needed for the specific parts are written in italic under the respective headline of a
part. Don’t get confused by the yarn colors in images throughout the pattern, they don’t always
represent the correct yarn color for that part and are just there as an additional, visual explanation.

3 The number in brackets after the headline of a part in the pattern indicates how many times you need
to create the same piece.

4 I’ve used the X-stitch method for the entire pattern. If you’re crocheting with V-stitches, the outcome
might look a bit different.

5 If you want to gift the Whale Shark Balloon to small children, please make sure that everything is safe.
I’d advise against using safety eyes for the face of the whale and Froggie and embroider them using
dark yarn instead. Also, don’t use pearls or buttons for the attachment of the basket, and sew it tightly
onto the ropes alternatively.

6 If you decide to sell items made from this pattern, or post your work anywhere, please give credit to
me as the designer of the pattern.

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Stitch Types & Abbreviations (US Terms)

ch Chain Stitch
slst Slip Stitch
sc Single Crochet Stitch
hdc Half-Double Crochet Stitch
dc Double Crochet Stitch
tc Triple Crochet Stitch
stsc Standing Single Crochet Stitch
↺ Repeat what is written before until the total number of stitches noted for this row or
round is reached
inc Work 2sc into the same stitch
dec Crochet together two stitches with one sc
(Use the invisible decrease method for three-dimensional pieces and the regular
decrease for flat pieces)
…flo Work into the front loops only using the stitch type written before
(LH) Crochet this row or round with your left hand
(or right hand, if you’re a left-handed crocheter)
(…) Total number of stitches in this round or row
… in loop Standard starting circle for round objects that are worked into a continuous spiral
(also known as magic circle/loop)
x (…) Repeat what is written inside the brackets  times
*…* Crochet everything between the two asterisks into one stitch
R… States the number of the current round or row
turn Turn around the crochet piece to its backside
skip Skip the indicated number of stitches
FO Fasten Off
Tail Yarn end

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Tutorials
Crocheting “in loop”

1 Wrap the yarn once over your left index finger in a cross shape.
2 Insert the hook under the top right loop of the cross.
3 Yarn over and pull it through under the loop.

4 Hold the piece between your left index finger and thumb.
5 Ch1.
6 Work the indicated number of stitches into the loop.
7 Pull gently on the loose yarn end to tighten the circle.
Start the next row always directly into the first stitch
of the previous round.

Crocheting “in chain”

1 When starting a new part, you’ll sometimes need to create a starting chain.
2 When it’s indicated that you need to work into the chain, always start by inserting your hook into the
second chain from hook.
3 Work the indicated stitches into the chain.

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Crocheting “in back bumps”

1 If it’s written that you need to work into the back bumps of the starting chain, you need to turn the
chain around to the backside to see them.
2 Always start by inserting your hook into the second back bump from hook.
3 Continue by working the indicated stitches into the back bumps of the starting chain.

Starting a new row with “ch1, turn”

1 You’ll always need this technique when working into rows on a 2D crochet piece.
2 Start a new row by ch1.
3 Turn your crochet piece around to the other side.

4 Always ignore the ch1 and work into the last stitch of the previous row. The ch1 also doesn’t count
towards the total number of stitches in that row.
5 Finish your stitch as usual and continue the indicated stitches along the row.

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Joining with a “Standing Single Crochet Stitch (stsc)”

1 Make a slip knot on the hook and insert the hook into the indicated stitch.
2 Yarn over and pull through the loop.
3 Yarn over and pull through the two loops on the hook to finish the stitch.

Fasten off (FO) invisibly

1 Cut the yarn and pull it through the last stitch completely.
Thread the yarn onto a sewing needle.
2 Insert the needle into the second next stitch.
3 Insert the needle into the back loop of the last stitch again.
4 Pull the yarn gently to create the invisible closing stitch.

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BALLOON CAP Start with dark blue:

Brown R1 ch4, sc in 2nd back bump from hook,

2sc in back bumps (3)
R1 6sc in loop (6)
R2 inc ↺ (12) Ch1 before each following row of the balloon gore
(the ch1 is always skipped and doesn’t count
Slst, FO invisibly and weave in all ends. towards the total number of stitches in that row):

R2 (LH) sc, inc, sc (4)

R3 sc, inc, 2sc (5)
R4 (LH) sc, inc, 3sc (6)
R5 sc, inc, 4sc (7)
R6 (LH) sc, inc, 5sc (8)
R7 sc, inc, 6sc (9)
R8 (LH) sc, inc, 7sc (10)
BALLOON GORES (6x) R9 sc, inc, 8sc (11)
Dark Blue | Light Blue | Offwhite | Rose

This part is supposed to be crocheted alternating

with your right & left hand. The goal of this is to
crochet a flat piece without any “wrong side” rows in
it. In the beginning, it definitely can be a struggle to
crochet with your weak hand, but I encourage you to
try it out. You’ll quickly notice that you’ll get better R8 R10
with each row - probably this is some good brain
training as well! Whenever there is an (LH) written at
the beginning of a row, it means that you need to You will alternate between dark blue and light blue
switch the crochet hook to your left hand for this row yarn from here on. There’ll be a lot of color switching,
and crochet in the opposite direction. There won’t be so I’d advise you to always take the yarn colors
any turning of your work, so you can use the invisible along. The color will be written before the stitches:
decrease method for all the dec and a slst after each
color change (which will result in a cleaner color R10 (LH) light blue: sc, dark blue:
switch). *slst, sc*, 8sc, light blue: sc (12)
R11 light blue: sc, inc, dark blue:
The pattern also works if you don’t want to do that or slst, 5sc, light blue: slst, 3sc (13)
find it too frustrating. The structure of your end result R12 (LH) light blue: sc, inc, 3sc, dark blue:
will look a bit different though. If this is the case, slst, 2sc, light blue: slst, 4sc (14)
whenever there is a row marked with (LH), turn your R13 light blue: sc, inc, 12sc (15)
work instead as you normally would when crocheting R14 (LH) dark blue: sc, *sc, light blue:
flat pieces. Also, replace each slst with a normal sc slst*, 11sc, dark blue: sl st, sc (16)
and don’t use the invisible decrease method.

Here is a comparison of the two styles (on the left

with alternating hands, on the right with turning):

R15 dark blue: sc, inc, 2sc, light blue: slst,

5sc, dark blue: slst, 5sc (17)
R16 (LH) light blue: sc, *sc dark blue:
slst*, 13sc, light blue: slst, sc (18)

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R17 light blue: sc, inc, 2sc, dark blue: Change to rose:
slst, 8sc, light blue: slst, 4sc (19)
R43 sc, dec, 7sc (9)
Cut the dark blue yarn and continue with light blue R44 (LH) sc, dec, 6sc (8)
yarn from here on:
Cut the rose yarn and continue with offwhite from
here on:

R45 sc, dec, 5sc (7)

R46 (LH) sc, dec, 4sc (6)

FO and weave in all ends.

R18

R18 (LH) sc, inc, 17sc (20)

R19-29 (RH/LH alternating) 20sc (11 rounds) (20)
Attach the whale shark eyes between R27 and R28 of
You will alternate between light blue and offwhite one balloon gore piece with about 10 stitch holes in
yarn from here on. The color will be written before between them. Also, embroider a friendly mouth
the stitches: using black yarn:

R30 (LH) offwhite: 4sc, light blue: slst,

11sc, offwhite: slst, 3sc (20)
R31 offwhite: 6sc, light blue: slst, 6sc,
offwhite: slst, 6sc (20)

Cut the light blue yarn and continue with offwhite

from here on:

R32 (LH) 20sc (20)

R33 sc, dec, 17sc (19)
R34 (LH) sc, dec, 16sc (18)
R35 sc, dec, 15sc (17)
R36 (LH) sc, dec, 14sc (16)
R37 sc, dec, 13sc (15)

Change to rose yarn:

R38 (LH) sc, dec, 12sc (14)

R39 sc, dec, 11sc (13)

Change to offwhite yarn:

R40 (LH) sc, dec, 10sc (12)

R41 sc, dec, 9sc (11)
R42 (LH) sc, dec, 8sc (10)

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Use offwhite yarn (the color doesn’t matter too much
since the seam will be hidden anyways) to sew BALLOON BOTTOM
together the six balloon gores along the long sides Brown
using the mattress stitch with the right side
outwards: R1 6sc in loop (6)
R2 inc ↺ (12)
R3 sc, inc ↺ (18)
R4 inc, 2sc ↺ (24)
R5 3sc, inc ↺ (30)
R6 2sc, inc, 2sc ↺ (36)

Slst, FO invisibly and weave in all ends.

Then sew the cap onto the top and stuff the balloon.
If you want, you can also add an embroidered line of
chain/slip stitches at the top:

R7 join with a stscflo anywhere on R6,

35scflo (36)

R8-10 36sc (3 rounds) (36)

Slst, FO invisibly and weave in all ends.

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 Sew a balloon rope into each of the connection
creases of the six balloon gores. It’s enough to sew
the beginning and end of each rope to the bottom
and top cap of the balloon envelope:

Sew the back loop of R7 of the bottom cap to the

base of the balloon to close it:

BALLOON ROPES (6x)

Brown

Leave a small tail for sewing at the start.

R1 ch42 (42)

Depending on the tension of your work, the rope

might end up too short or too long for your balloon.
If this is the case, adjust the amount of chain stitches
to fit the length of your balloon from cap to bottom
(see images on the next page). Leave a small tail for
sewing at the end.

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FLIPPERS (2x) Attach the flippers in the center on the sections left
and right of the face. Sew them along the border of
Light Blue the light blue and offwhite color on the balloon gore:

R1 6sc in loop (6)

R2 inc ↺ (12)
R3 inc ↺ (24)
R4 inc, sc ↺ (36)
R5 36sc (36)

Fold the circle in half and crochet through both

layers: ch1, 18sc. FO with a tail.

FLUKE
Light Blue

R1 6sc in loop (6)

R2 inc ↺ (12)
R3 inc ↺ (24)

You’ll create the first side of the fluke from the next
round on:

R4 2sc, inc, 3sc, 12skip, 2sc, inc, 3sc (14)

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 FO through the front loops and weave in all ends. Use
the small tail in front of the stsc of R4 to sew
together the small hole at the connection of both
fluke sides.

Only continue to work into the 14sc of the last round

from here on:

R5 3sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 3sc (16)

R6-7 16sc (2 rounds) (16)
R8 dec, 2sc ↺ (12)

Stuff the side of the fluke very lightly.

R9 sc, dec ↺ (8)

Attach the fluke to the section which is the opposite

of the face. Sew them along the border of the light
blue and offwhite color on the balloon tissue:

FO through front loops and weave in all ends.

Continue crocheting the other side of the fluke:

R4 join with a stsc in the next stitch left of

the finished fluke side (leave a small
tail in front of the stsc),
2sc, inc, 5sc, inc, 2sc (14)
R5 3sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 3sc (16)
R6-7 16sc (2 rounds) (16)
R8 dec, 2sc ↺ (12)

Stuff the side of the fluke very lightly.

R9 sc, dec ↺ (8)

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CHEEKS (6x)
Rose

R1 6sc in loop (6)

R2 inc ↺ (12)

Slst, FO invisibly and leave a tail for sewing.

When all 18 pieces are connected, FO and sew

GARLAND (18x) together the first and the last piece to complete the
garland.
Dark Blue

R1 3sc in loop (3)

R2 ch1, turn, *sc, hdc*, *dc, tc, dc*,
*hdc, sc* (7)

BASKET
Brown | Dark Blue

Start with brown yarn:

R1 6sc in loop (6)

R2 inc ↺ (12)
R3 inc, sc ↺ (18)
R4 2sc, inc ↺ (24)
R5 sc, inc, 2sc ↺ (30)
For the first 17 pieces, FO and weave in all ends. For R6 inc, 4sc ↺ (36)
the last piece, don’t cut the yarn - instead: ch1 and R7 3sc, inc, 2sc ↺ (42)
continue to crochet all of them together, crocheting R8 inc, 6sc ↺ (48)
5sc on the flat base of each piece. Ch8 in between
every third piece. You will alternate between dark blue and brown yarn
from here on. There’ll be a lot of color switching, so
I’d advise you to always take the yarn colors along.
The color will be written before the stitches:

R9 dark blue: slst, sc, 3x (brown: slst, 7sc,

dark blue: slst, 3s), brown: slst, 7sc,
dark blue: slst, sc (48)
R10: dark blue: 4sc, brown: slst, 3sc,
dark blue: slst, 3sc ↺ (48)

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R11 brown: slst, sc, 3x (dark blue: slst, 7sc,
brown: slst, 3sc), dark blue: slst, 7sc,
brown: slst, sc (48)
R12 brown: 4sc, dark blue: slst, 3sc,
brown: slst, 3sc ↺ (48)

You can cut the dark blue yarn now and continue only
with brown yarn.

Continue with offwhite yarn:

R13 3sc, dec, 3sc ↺ (42)

R14 dec, 5sc ↺ (36)
R15 2sc, dec, 2sc ↺ (30)
R16 scflo, incflo, scflo ↺ (40)
R17-18 40sc (2 rounds) (40)
R19 sc, dec, sc ↺ (30)

Change to offwhite yarn. Cut the brown yarn and

leave a long tail.

R20 slstflo, 29scflo (30)

R21 2sc, inc, 2sc ↺ (36)

Use the remaining tail of the brown yarn to sew

together the back loops of R16 and R20 inside the
basket:

R22 inc, 5sc ↺ (42)

R23 3sc, inc, 3sc ↺ (48)
R24-25 48sc (2 rounds) (48)
R26 3sc, dec, 3sc ↺ (42)
R27 dec, 5sc ↺ (36)
R28 2sc, dec, 2sc ↺ (30)
R29 dec, 3sc ↺ (24)
R30 sc, dec, sc ↺ (18)
R31 dec, sc ↺ (12)
R32 dec ↺ (6)

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FO through the front loops and weave in all ends.
Then, push the offwhite part (which is the inside wall) BASKET RING
into the basket and shape it nicely. Dark Blue

Add a small wire into the following R1 while working

on the 47sc of this row.

R1 ch49, sc in 2nd ch from hook,

(add the wire now) 47sc (48)

Cut the wire to the correct length and FO with a small

tail. Sew the beginning and end of R1 together to
form a ring.
BASKET LOOP (4x)
Brown

Leave a small tail for sewing at the start.

R1 ch11 (11)

FO with a small tail for sewing.

BASKET ROPE (4x)

Brown
Sew the four loops on four corners under the edge of
the basket: Leave a small tail for sewing at the start. Depending
on the size of your wooden pearl (or similar item), the
loop for it (which is made of the first ch10 of R1)
might end up too small or too big. If this is the case,
adjust the number of chain stitches to fit the size.

R1 ch10, slst into the back bump of

the first ch, ch13 (24)

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 ATTACHING THE LOOPS
Attach a combination of four balloon loops together
with the four basket ropes to the basket ring like this:

FO with a small tail and attach a small wooden pearl

(or something similar) to the end. I fixed the pearl
with a double knot at the end.

BALLOON LOOPS (6x)

Brown

Leave a small tail for sewing at the start.

R1 ch10, slst into the back bump of

the first ch, ch25 (36)

Leave a small tail for sewing at the end. Weave in the

end at the loop.

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 ASSEMBLY
Important: This needs to happen after
attaching the loops to the basket ring
because you won’t be able to do that after
they’ve been sewn to the balloon tissue!

Attach the two remaining balloon loops to the ring Sew the end of each balloon loop onto the balloon
like shown in the following images. Place them after ropes at the border of the light blue and offwhite yarn
every second basket rope. of the balloon envelope.

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Sew the cheeks onto the six connection points of the
balloon ropes & loops. Only sew the bottom half of CAPTAIN FROGGIE - TORSO
the circle (along the dotted line in the image below): Green | Rose (optional)

Torso without belly:

Start with green yarn:

R1 6sc in loop (6)

R2 inc ↺ (12)
R3 sc, inc ↺ (18)
R4 sc, inc, sc ↺ (24)
R5-9 24sc (5 rounds) (24)
R10 sc, dec, sc ↺ (18)

Start stuffing here.

Lay the finished garland around the balloon. The ch8 R11-12 18sc (2 rounds) (18)
between every third piece needs to be held by the top R13 dec, sc ↺ (12)
section of each cheek. The garland should hang R14 dec ↺ (6)
under the flippers, fluke, and face.
FO through front loops and weave in all ends.

Torso with belly:

If you don’t sew it on, you can always take it off and If you want to add a belly, alternate between green
switch it to another garland if you want to. and rose yarn. There’ll be a lot of color switching, so
I’d advise you to always take the yarn colors along.
The color will be written before the stitches.
OPTIONAL DETAILS Start with green yarn:
Embroider some random french knots to the top of
R1 6sc in loop (6)
the whale shark balloon using offwhite yarn. These
R2 inc ↺ (12)
dots are typical of the look of a whale shark.
R3 sc, inc ↺ (18)
R4 sc, inc, sc ↺ (24)
R5 green: 4sc, rose: slst, 3sc,
green: slst, 15sc (24)
R6 green: 3sc, rose: slst, 5sc,
green: slst, 14sc (24)
R7-8 green: 3sc, rose: slst, 6sc,
green: slst, 13sc (2 rounds) (24)
R9 green: 4sc, rose: slst, 5sc,
green: slst, 13sc (24)
R10: green: sc, dec, 2sc, rose: dec, 2sc,
green: skip, slst, sc, 3x (sc, dec, sc) (18)

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Start stuffing here. Cut the rose yarn and continue
with green yarn:

R11-12 18sc (2 rounds) (18)

R13 dec, sc ↺ (12)
R14 dec ↺ (6)

FO through front loops and weave in all ends.

CAPTAIN FROGGIE - EYES

Green

R1 6sc in loop (6)

R2 sc, inc, sc ↺ (8)
R3 8sc

Slst and finish off invisibly with a small tail to sew

the eye onto the head. Attach a safety eye in the
center and add a bit of stuffing if needed.
Finally, attach the basket to the balloon by pulling the
pearls through the basket loops:

CAPTAIN FROGGIE - SCARF

Yellow

R1 ch50, sc into 2nd back bump from

hook, 48sc into back bumps (49)

Sew the eyes onto the head and embroider a small

mouth with black yarn. Dress Captain Froggie and let
him take a seat inside the basket!

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 Your Whale Shark Balloon is done &
Captain Froggie is ready to take off!

Try out other

accessories
as well!

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 Thank you! ♥

Thanks so much for purchasing this pattern, I hope you had a fun time working on it! If you find any typos,
mistakes, or unclear parts, please let me know and I’ll do my best to correct & update the pattern. If you have
any other questions or comments, feel free to reach out!

Let me know if you post your Whale Shark Balloon anywhere:

You can tag me on social media @schrahki or use the hashtag #schrahkicrochet – I’d love to see your work!

@schrahki ravelry.com/designers/svenja-rosner

Also, a big thank you & shoutout to my amazing testers – they’ve been a huge help to complete the pattern!
You can find all of them on Instagram:

@craft.tin.love
@eleanorandi
@grubby.stitches
@lex_in_stitches

 2022 Svenja Rösner | schrahki – This pattern is sold for personal use only. It is prohibited to reproduce, distribute, resell, translate,
publish, alter, share, or post (for free or for sell) this pattern anywhere on the internet or offline!

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