ISSUE 25 – MARCH 2022

THE FIRST INDIE DIGITAL MAGAZINE

FOR THE MODERN SEWER

style
hacking
SEW
THE LOOK
Colour blocking & wide leg tailoring

BONJOUR
TO FRENCH PATTERN MAKERS

IMPROVE
YOUR
indie
CHAMPIONING

DESIGNERS
SEWING
Understitching
Directional Sewing
Reducing Bulky Seams

WWW.THEPATTERNPAGES.COM
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Spring is around the corner!
Now we have the first two months of the year under our belts, we bulk and show how to create crisp, flat seams by clipping, notching,
can begin to look forward to warmer days, lighter evenings, and the trimming and grading your seam allowances!
joys of spring! Is there something in your wardrobe that you love then you could
The new fabric collections are certainly putting a spring in our create a pattern from it! Karoline Dahrling Hughes turns a T-shirt in
step so I’m sure you are going to love these gorgeous fabrics too – your wardrobe into a beautiful top that can be worn with the wrap
take a look at the latest ones in Hot Fabrics. towards the front or the back, which we’re happy to say is our fab
This issue arms you with some simple but clever sewing techniques front cover!
to improve your sewing! We’re joined by one of our popular Free for subscribers of thepatternpages.com, we have another
bloggers, Tammy Silver, who shows how to use understitching on great pattern for you to download and sew! We love a jumpsuit,
a neck facing! We also discover directional sewing – not heard of it don’t you? It’s such a comfortable one-piece to wear and easily
then you probably aren’t alone? This technique is rarely mentioned teamed up with a light jacket and trainers or your favourite heels for
on sewing patterns but is used in couture sewing and can improve the evening. Meet the Sangria Jumpsuit from Our Lady of Leisure!
your garment’s appearance. We also take a recap of how to reduce

Happy sewing!
ie x
Jul Julie Bonnar | Editor | julie@thepatternpages.com

KEEP IN THE LOOP

Graphic Designer Pinterest: Facebook: Instagram:

emily@thepatternpages.com @thepatternpages @thepatternpages @thepatternpagesmagazine

For advertising opportunities: Please get in touch with hello@thepatternpages.com

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 60

CONTENTS
SPECIALS French pattern designers 43 Beautiful People 60
and who’s who A retrospective look at this London exhibition
Get to know French pattern makers

REGULARS Hot fabrics 22 Pattern preview 30

Start your spring sewing with these Our favourite new sewing patterns
gorgeous fabrics hot off the press!

On our radar 7 Hooked on books 27 We heart – Very Peri 47

Things we thought you might like to Get your sewing mojo back with Ways to add a touch of this new Pantone
know from the sewing community…. a good book! colour to your everyday!

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 LEARN TO SEW
Understitching 14
Elevate your next sewing project, Tammy
Silver shows how to use understitiching on
a neck facing

Directional sewing 20
This technique can improve your
garment’s appearance
MEET & GREET
Where modern 16 STYLISH SEWING Reducing bulk! 40
Create crisp, flat seams by clipping,
meets vintage
Laura Nash talks about her passion
Sew the look 10 notching, trimming and grading

for her vintage-inspired pattern label

– Wide leg tailoring your seam allowances!
Top of the style list this spring, this
that’s for the modern woman and sewer!
style has relaxed silhouettes and longer Clone your clothes! 51
hemlines! Is there something in your wardrobe
Let’s talk fabric with 38 that you love then why not make a
Good Fabric
We chat with Polina Karbanova about
Sew the look 34 pattern from it!

how lockdown, redundancy and a love

– Take two!
of sustainable fabric championed a new
Colour blocking is a style where two Stylehacking – Wrap top 52
colours unexpectedly come together to Turn a T-shirt in your wardrobe into a
business venture!
look wonderful! beautiful top that can be worn with the
wrap toward the front or the back
Meet the maker 48
– Digital Pattern Library The edit 58
Alexandra Wall from Digital Pattern Library
– Hear me ROAR! Pattern Collaboration 56
To quote Katy Perry, the animal print Free for thepatternpages.com annual
explains how she’s helping sewists unleash
trend is a roaring success! subscribers, meet the Sangria Jumpsuit
their inner designer!
from Our Lady of Leisure
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 REG UL AR S

ON
OUR
RADAR
Things we thought you might like to know….

HOPE TO
SEE YOU
SOON! NEW SEWING
We’re excited to say that SUBSCRIPTION
we’ll be back at Sewing
for Pleasure this year, The Aesthetic is a new luxury sewing subscription service
after a lockdown break of from The Avid Seamstress. The boxes are carefully selected
two years! We have lots using the highest quality products and additional extras
of exciting news but at are included to help enhance your sewing space and
the moment, our lips are extend your creative environment. The subscription box
sealed. If you are attending is delivered bi-monthly starting this March and includes
please do come along and a printed sewing pattern, high-quality fabric, specially
say hello, we’d love to meet selected for the pattern, sewing tools, notions and/or
some of our lovely readers gifts to enhance your environment and boost wellbeing
– we’re on stand ZD08. and sense of calm. You’ll also have access to the private
Opposite us on stand ZD26, we’ll be looking after the Sew Your Style Facebook community where you can ask for advice and
competition in association with The Creative Crafts Show. Here you can share your wonderful makes.
take a look at what the finalists have created and on Sunday, you can see To find out more visit www.theavidseamstress.co.uk
the winning garments on the catwalk in the afternoon!

MORE EXTENDED
sizing
Deer&Doe, the French indie brand is now offering two
of its popular sewing patterns in extending sizes. The
Sirroco Jumpsuit and Plantain T-shirt now comes in
sizes up to 60.
To view these patterns visit shop.deer-and-doe.fr/en

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R EGU L AR S

GATHER KITS CLOSES

They say all good things come to an end and sadly we have learned that Gather Kits is
closing at the end of April. The brand is currently selling off its printed patterns and looking
for good homes for the Buchanan dressing gown, Mortmain dress, Azaire top and Tallis
collar kits.
To buy the patterns visit www.gatherkits.com

PLAY YOUR PART AND MAKE A

DIFFERENCE TO THE WORLD
Did you know that 1,000m of Gütermann’s Sew-all rPET thread is made from one recycled plastic bottle? Gütermann creativ has added
these colourful thread packs to its popular rPET range. Produced using Micro Core Technology, this thread is the ethical choice for sewing
enthusiasts who are looking for quality threads without compromising. It’s suitable for machine and hand-stitching like dressmaking,
decorative stitching, quilting, and soft furnishings. The new packs come in packs of 10, in three colourways and also a larger 20 reel pack as
shown above. There is no thread twisting and the threads are tear and abrasion resistant, don’t fade and are colourfast. Gütermann creativ
threads can be purchased from good sewing, craft and hobby shops.
To follow Gütermann creativ, visit www.facebook.com/Guetermann.creativ.uk

TEXTILE
adventure
Cloth Atelier is more than just about cloth,
it’s a community of people who love to
make, support traditional handcrafted
skills, and share a joy of textiles by building
a better understanding while visiting
and experiencing different cultures as
respectfully as possible. Fancy a visit to
Ladakh in India - the magical lost Kingdom
- high up in the Himalayas? Experience
beautiful monasteries, the Takhok Tsechu
Festival, and spin and weave with the
locals, and have a day with the pashmina
nomads, just to mention a few of the
highlights of the trip. The textile adventure
departs on the 4th August 2022.
If you’re interested in finding out
more, visit Cloth Atelier’s sister site,
Mindful Textile Journeys to learn more,
www.mindfultextilejourneys.co.uk

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 CARP DIEM DRESS

TABULA RASA JACKET

TABULA RASA KNIT TEE & TUNIC

EUREKA! PANTS THAT FIT

Get a great fit with our basic jacket, dress, knit top or pants
patterns, then use our variations to create a wardrobe of
varied styles for every occasion!
Patterns available in digital and print format

www.fitforartpatterns.com
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S T YL IS H S E WI NG

SHORT &
The Culottes, The Avid Seamstress
Sizes 6-22 (UK), £18.50
www.theavidseamstress.co.uk

SWEET
Culottes are the ultimate middle
ground between skirts and trousers –
all the swish factor of a skirt but the
practicality of trousers. These ones are
edgy, versatile and a wardrobe staple
that is perfect for all seasons. The
pleated detail, large inseam pockets
(designed to sit flat and not interrupt
the silhouette), fitted waistband, wide
hem give a stylish feel to these trousers.

WIDE LEG
TAILORING
The wide-leg trouser is top of the style list this spring with relaxed
silhouettes and longer hemlines!

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 ST YLISH S E WI N G

CHINO CHIC
Chinos are a trouser style originally designed for military
uniforms but are now worn for everyday wear and a staple
in our wardrobes for both men and women. Widen your
wardrobe repertoire with this high-waisted pair of trousers
that has welt pockets, front fly with zipper, side pockets,
and a contoured waistband with five belt loops.

Hepburn Chino Pants, Wardrobe By Me

Sizes 30-54 (EU) and 0-24 (US), €12
www.wardrobebyme.com

Calder Pants & Short, Cashmerette, Size 12-32, £20

(printed), www.hantexonline.co.uk/cashmerette

WONDERFULLY
COMFORTABLE
Elevate your look with
these wide-legged woven
trousers that have a flat
front, elasticated back
waistband, faced in-seam
pockets. Choose between
a dartless apple fit and a
darted back pear fit for ideal
bum shaping. The Calder
is sure to have you loving
wearing trousers again!

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S T YL IS H S E WI NG

Cove Pants, Pattern Fantastique, Sizes 6-20, £10, www.patternfantastique.com

FULL FLARE
Part 30’s sailor chic and part 70’s sportswear. These trousers are super high
waisted with a back double layer yoke, while the front features paperbag style
gathers created by double drawstrings over the front between hip pocket
openings. A high glam shape with streamlined finished, this pattern can be
worn floor length or cropped!
Cordelia Trousers, The Pattern Stash, Sizes 8-26 (UK), £18, www.fabworks.co.uk

LEISURE DAYS
Chic and sophisticated, this wide leg trouser has
a stylish paperbag high waist with pretty pleated
front and comfortable elasticated back waistband
and are the ideal trouser to pack for holidays.

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 ST YLISH S E WI N G

E
I’M ON TH
PATTERN
E
BOUTIQU

FUN & FLORAL

We love these Palazzo trousers – they’re the perfect addition
to your wardrobe especially for the warmer months when
sewn in beautiful floral cottons or line fabrics. This pattern has
two lovely versions – Culottes and Palazzo pants to create two
very different looks!
Tyra Trousers, Ploen Patterns
Size 32-54 (EU), £11.50
www.thepatternpages.com/thepatternboutique

Florence Palazzo Suit, Liberty, Sizes 6-22, £17.50, www.clothkits.co.uk

VINTAGE-INSPIRED
Inspired from the Liberty fashion archive, this contemporary pattern label
offers a fresh twist on classic vintage shapes. This pattern features wide-
leg Palazzo pants that’s versatile and has a fluid modern silhouette infused
with 70’s cool! It’s ideal for Liberty’s Tana Lawn!

HOW TO MAKE Tuck in your shirt and Lift your outfit with Pair with a relaxed Style them up your
add a contrasting a light colour wide vest for a casual look weekend with a
THE WIDE LEG belt to elongate leg trousers or make for the daytime or a chunky sweater for
your body. a matching brightly silky camisole for an meeting friends for
TROUSER WORK coloured statement evening look in the coffee.
FOR YOU: blazer. same colour.

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LE A RN TO S E W

TA M M
Y S I LV
ER

U N D E R S T I TC H I N GElevate your next sewing project, Tammy Silver shares how to

use understitiching on a neck facing!

WHAT IS UNDERSTITCHING?
Understitching is a sewing technique that is achieved
when you sew a line of stitching on the facing of a
garment to secure the seam allowance underneath. This
will prevent the facing or lining from peeking through to
the outside of the garment and is less likely to roll out and
show! It’s invisible on the right side of the garment so it
is particularly handy when sewing facings on necklines,
armholes and pockets, as it gives a crisp finish.

WHY YOU SHOULDN’T SKIP

UNDERSTITCHING
• It holds the linings and facings pieces to the
wrong side of the garment and makes your
garment look more professional
• It gives more hold to the seam on areas that
have more wear and tear
• It will support seams made on the bias
preventing them from distorting during
washing and wearing

Understitch your neckline to create gorgeous garments like the Upton Dress from Cashmerette Patterns
To find your nearest stockist, visit www.hantexonline.co.uk/cashmerette

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 LE ARN TO SE W

S T E P S TO S E W

2. Prepare your facing by sewing your shoulder and

back seams, pressing your seams apart.

1.
Prepare your bodice by sewing your shoulder and
back seams, pressing your seams apart.

4. Sew along the neckline, I’ve used a 1/2in seam

allowance. After this, cut triangle notches, being
careful not to snip past the stitch lines. Notching

3. Place your facing onto your bodice neckline, right

sides together. Match the seams at the shoulders
and centre back, using pins to hold in place.
will remove excess fabric and allow your neckline
to lay flat once pressed.
Trim your seam allowances on the facing or lining
TIP

a bit narrower than the garment seam allowances

to lay flat between the other layers.

5. Position the seam allowance towards the facing.

Sew beside your seam allowance line, on the side
of the facing pulling apart taut the two pieces
of joined pieces of fabric. Once sewn, the seam
allowance will be secured to the facing.
6. Turn your facing to the inside of your bodice and
press flat.

It’s amazing how one simple technique can elevate your sewing to the next level! Now you can use this new
technique to add a professional look to your handmade clothes.
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ME E T & GR E ET

where modern
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meets vintage
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 ME E T & G R E E T

Laura Nash talks about her passion for her vintage-inspired pattern label that’s for the
modern woman and sewer!

S
ewing patterns has always been in the
back of my mind as an alternative, but
Ready-To-Wear (RTW) felt like it would
be very glamorous so after graduation,
I went to fashion week with a fully
developed retro line and with the support
of media. Unfortunately, I hated the experience!
From that moment on, I had no second thoughts.
I knew that sewing patterns was for me so created
Sew Chic Patterns.

I love Vintage – it’s so chic! It’s packed with feminine

silhouettes that are classic and creative; the ideal
inspiration is 1920’s -1950’s. My true love is the 1950’s
with soft shoulders, slim waist, and full skirts that are
easy for most figures to fit and wear, and creates the
look of an hourglass figure. I have taken this classic
silhouette and given them a modern twist, which I call Fit is so important when sewing your own clothes, and
‘modern vintage’. there are three basic alterations that everyone should
know: lengthening and shortening, the full and small
My patterns are totally modern patterns, but the bust adjustment, and how to transition between sizes
vintage influence is obvious. They aren’t ‘business as for the three main areas of the body. With just these,
usual’, as you’ll find something special in every pattern. most people should be able to get a good fit if the
They keep customers learning, stretching skills, and patternmaker and grader have done their job! It’s wise
being surprised. These days our attention span is to do a preliminary ‘tissue’ fit of the pattern and then
short, and we don’t have time for a lengthy process, fit again once the shell has been assembled for minor
so sizing is sure, assembly is quick and professional, tweaks due to fabric choice. Responsibility for good
and something fun to enjoy keeps everyone happy. fit also lies with the patternmaker and staying true to
the size chart. Like you, I once thought I was to blame
I was all set up to go into bridal wear and had already when something went wrong, but now that I’m the
worked with women of all ages and sizes, I knew my designer, I know differently. Customers take too much
unique chart would provide a consistent and reliable of the blame, because fit shouldn’t be so difficult!
fit for today’s women. I began with sizes 6-18 and a
size 10 fit model. Then after requests from the petite In the past, I have designed for Simplicity and while
crowd, I stretched the chart to include sizes 2-18, I was at a popular sewing show, I struck a deal with
taking the chart to the maximum grading length of Deborah Kreiling, then the Design Development
4 sizes to either end. Distortion can ruin the fit for Director for this pattern label. She had purchased my
everyone on the outer edges when charts extend too patterns previously and had it on her desk at work. My
far. Eventually I heard from the plus group too. first pattern came out in the autumn that next year
I used to think that more was better, and like the (they work a year ahead). Autumn/winter became my
Victorian gown, I would pack them on top of each popular release months because I love formal dress.
other! I’ve now learned restraint and feel that a few My sewing patterns did very well for them, and they
distinctive yet flexible details on a gorgeous silhouette are still selling. I did two detailed sew-alongs, and two
are much better. The key is to spice up a simple classic styles landed on the catalogue cover. I’m very proud
shape with a feature fabric, while a pattern with lots of of the work that I did and popularity of the Simplicity
high fashion details will steal the show in a rich solid line. I think it made me a better designer too.
color. To give more options, I offer free downloadable I think my sewing patterns can be summed up in my
style extenders and teach pattern hacks. I believe in tag line, “Modern Patterns with Vintage Style!” Why not
total flexibility. give them a try!

“
My patterns are totally modern patterns, but the vintage influence
is obvious. They aren’t ‘business as usual’, as you’ll find something

”
special in every pattern. They keep customers learning, stretching
skills, and being surprised!

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ME E T & GR E ET

Sew Chic | www.sewchicpatterns.com | SewChicPatternCo

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LE A RN TO S E W

WHAT Directional stitching is when you choose to sew a seam in a particular direction when the seam line is not parallel to
the warp or weft, and does not follow the grain of your fabric. This can greatly reduce any puckering or distortion in

IS IT? the fabric.

This will depend on your pattern pieces. Whenever you sew something that has angled or curved edges.
Look at your pattern piece to see if the sides slant diagonally, you will want to sew from the widest point
WHEN TO
toward the narrowest.
USE IT
QUICK GUIDE TO
STRAIGHT SIDES
On straight sides that slant diagonally you should sew from the widest
point to the narrowest point.

EXAMPLE: A-LINE SKIRT

Stitch up from the hemline to the waist on both sides. This will stop one
side from ending up a different length to the other!

EXAMPLE: TAPERED TROUSERS

Start at the waist or crotch (on inside leg) and sewing towards
the hem.

QUICK GUIDE TO
CURVED EDGES
On curved edges like necklines, armholes and waistbands, you will need to stitch from the outer
edge (hight point) to the lowest point (centre neck). This takes a little longer but it is well worth
doing. Sewing down the curve and back up the other side is quick to do but you will be stitching
against the grain, and it can cause puckering and distort the fabric!
EXAMPLE: NECKLINE
Start at the shoulder and stitch toward the centre front, then flip the piece over and repeat on
the other side.
EXAMPLE: CURVED WAISTLINE
Start at the outer edge and follow the curve down to the centre front, then flip the piece over
and repeat.
EXAMPLE: ARMHOLES
Start at the shoulder and stitch down toward the underarm.

Applying directional stitching to your areas where you have to staystitch can be beneficial too. It will help prevent these areas like

TIP: necklines, waistlines, and armholes from stretching out of shape. Curves are cut on the bias making the grain of the fabric lay
diagonally instead of straight and bias — and as we know bias fabric stretches. Using directional stitching will stabilise your fabric
so it doesn’t pull out of shape.

DIRECTIONAL Not heard of directional sewing then you probably aren’t

alone, this technique is rarely mentioned on sewing
patterns but used in couture sewing and can improve your
garment’s appearance

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 Sustainable fabrics
that don’t cost the earth (literally)

www.goodfabric.co.uk
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 R EGU L AR S

HOT fabrics Start your spring sewing with these gorgeous fabrics

nic cotton pop

orga
INABLE
lin
on
rin
t
OW AN D S U S TA
S EW S L
s p
ed
on
Re

ti
ec
er

Roo-tid is a small design studio, run by Carly, situated in the

Riv

oll
yc

wonderful surroundings of the New Forest. This company

imply Spring

specialises in illustrating beautiful dressmaking fabrics to

encourage people to slow down and sew. The quality
and design of the fabrics play a key part in this mindful
experience. It generates some ‘me’ time to stop and
the S

step away from the hustle and bustle of day-to-day life

rom

and simply enjoy finding fabrics that make us feel good -

f

inside and out. Roo-Tid is on a continuous journey to push

ir c
b

fa boundaries, lower our carbon footprint and improve our

n
tto
Light organic co environmental impact. All cotton fabrics are GOTS certified and
recently, the brand has introduced new Tencel quality.
To see more from this brand, visit www.goodfabric.co.uk

EVERYTHING’S
peachy
The Nectarine Fusion fabric collection is definitely feeling peachy with
these low-volume fabrics that will give you a new way of sewing with
minimal prints that introduce a sweet, crisp, apricot colour palette
that’s soft on the eyes with its subtle textures. This fabric collection
also comes in fat quarters and 10in Wonder squares for smaller projects.
To find your nearest UK stockist, and more from the current Art Gallery
Fabrics collections, visit www.hantexonline.co.uk/agf-fabrics

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NEW SPRING FABRICS FROM LISE TAILOR

Everything started with a mutual love for sewing and knitting for
Lise Tailor, a French fabric designer. It’s actually the passion for
craft activities-sharing that she places above all and that is why she
create fabrics she loves to sew and wear herself only.
Good Fabric is excited to be launching new fabrics from Lise Tailor
this March including the Ecovero Viscose. We love the Bliss print
as it’s the perfect fabric for coming out of winter and its black
background ensures the transition to spring with the flower
blossom. Its small bouquets with a touch of Japanese make you
want to twirl to the rhythm of the songs of the birds. A short skirt
will go wonderfully with this ethical fabric can be worn with or
without tights to be in harmony with the changing temperatures
of spring.

Spring Dew Ecovero Viscose

While the Spring Dew print features soft blue leaves to remind
us of how precious water is and the large flowers form suns to
illuminate any outfit! This new pink clay colour adds a new warm
shade to the Lise Tailor palette. Sewn as a lovely jumpsuit, it will
also be perfect for strong pieces such as a beautiful long dress.
Floral Sketch has soft green tones that echoes the predominant
colour of spring. The coral of flowers is in essence the colour
of optimism and dynamism. This fluid stable viscose is deal for
dresses, blouses, and skirts.
To view more Lise Tailor fabrics a, visit www.goodfabric.co.uk

AVAILABLE
FROM 19th
MARCH
2022

Floral Sketch Ecovero Viscose

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Bliss Ecovero Viscose
The Pattern Pages | 23
Details

Ash Jeans …
The ultimate stretch jean
pattern set. Includes four cuts
and multiple lengths for tall,
regular and cropped complete
with classic jeans detailing.

Make these great jeans from

Megan Nielsen using Modelo

Visit www.hantexonline.co.uk/denim

Find the right fabric for

your next project …
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 REG UL AR S

Gloria is a collection inspired by Maureen Cracknell’s grandmother

and the dear memories of the time she spent with her. The
collection has a delicate warm colour palette with sweet
hand-drawn florals that remain vivid of her grandmother’s
home. This collection certainly has a vintage-feel and
some of the designs would look so pretty as a dress
or skirt for your spring wardrobe.
To find your nearest UK stockist, and view the
current collections from Art Gallery Fabrics, visit
www.hantexonline.co.uk/agf-fabrics

Ode to
grandma
UNIQUELY TEXTURED

Jacquard is a one-of-a-kind intricately woven textiles and

this collection includes a whimsical llama motif, magnificent
southwest-inspired zigzag and an abstract design in the most
vibrant colourways. Made by a heritage mill in France from BCI
(Better Cotton Initiative) cotton and recycled polyester, these
beauties have a nice heft, weight and moderate drape. They
look great on both sides, which means you can pick your
favourite side to work with or use it to create an unlined or
reversible garment. This fabric is ideal for show-stopping
jackets, coats, blazers, structured dresses, trousers and skirts.
To view the Jacquard range, visit www.corefabricstore.com

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R EGU L AR S

Spring blend
The Carbury fabric collection is one of the newest ranges from Modelo and is a mix of yarn dyed linen and cotton blend fabric, which is
perfect for spring/summer garments like trousers, skirts, blouses and dresses. The collection features 15 colour ways including plain, finely
and wide striped options.
To see more from this collections from Modelo, visit www.hantexonline.co.uk/modelo

GORGEOUS
GAUZE
Double Gauze is a popular fabric at the moment, particularly for
summer garments. The Milsato range of 100% cotton double
gauze add’s texture with a subtle Dobby pattern. Perfect for
tops, shirts and dresses. Choose from lovely new spring colours
including dusky pink, mustard, warm orange, wine, denim, soft
green, mid blue and khaki plus neutrals of white grey, and black.
To find your nearest UK stockist, and view the current collections
from Modelo, visit www.hantexonline.co.uk/modelo
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 Get your sewing mojo back
with a good book! on books
THE SARTORIAL MASTER: TRADITIONAL TAILORING

OUT 29th March 2022

TECHNIQUES FOR GENTLEMAN’S WEAR
By Artiel García Aliste
Based on the practice and experience of a master tailor, this detailed book
contains the basic principles of traditional sartorial garment construction – the art
of designing, cutting, fitting, and finishing menswear. The book brings together
the various aspects of the techniques that have been honed by three family
generations of artisan tailors practicing their craft from 1915 to the present day.

WE THINK
This book will be a very useful addition to the bookshelf for anyone who likes
sewing menswear.

WHERE TO BUY
Published by Hoaki, this hardback book is priced at £36.74 and available for
UK readers from www.amazon.co.uk

SEW HEALTHY & HAPPY - SMART ERGONOMICS,

STRETCHES & MORE FOR MAKERS
By Rose Parr
Quilting (and sewing) shouldn’t be a pain in the neck! Stay pain-free with this
survival guide to a healthy mind, body, and spirit. Ever been unusually sore after a
marathon day of sewing? There’s no need for pain as this guide will make sure you
have the right posture, techniques, and stretches when putting in those dedicated
hours on your next project. Expert Rose Parr shares methods behind ergonomics
with visual guides, exercises, healthy recipes, and contributions from the best
quilters in the industry and tips to keep you in prime sewing form!
OUT 25th March 2022

WE THINK
This is a great book to remind all of us what to do to be able to continue
to use our bodies while doing the thing we love!

WHERE TO BUY
Published by C&T Publishing and priced at £12.99 and available for UK
readers from www.amazon.co.uk

4f8e807c-deee-4695-9947-12bfa4c06385 The Pattern Pages | 27

 R EGU L AR S

FUROSHIKI - THE JAPANESE ART OF WRAPPING WITH FABRIC

By Aurélie Le Marec
Say goodbye to plastic bags and wasteful gift-wrap, and hello to Furoshiki! This is a traditional Japanese wrapping cloth,
and is used to wrap gifts and create bags for carrying things more easily. Once you have learned the basic methods of tying
and folding, you can tie Furoshiki in different ways to suit the size and shape
of the contents within. Using just a square of fabric, Aurélie teaches you the
art of knotting and folding to carry all kinds of items from books to guitars and
laptops to wine bottles!
OUT 31st March 2022

WE THINK
There are more than 50 Furoshki folds to learn but this book explains
them with clear step-by-step instructions. We’re keen to give it a go and
reduce our waste!

WHERE TO BUY
Published by Search Press, this book is priced at £12.99 and available for UK
readers from www.amazon.co.uk

PATTERN ALTERATIONS FOR A BEAUTIFUL BUST WORKBOOK

By Laura Nash, Sew Chic Patterns
This book is specifically for making bust fitting and is a comprehensive workbook provides sewers with a complete
understanding of bust fitting. Developed from a four-hour bust alteration class of the same name, learn about darts and bust
shaping – the types, uses, and how to move, change and add darts, eliminate neck and armhole gaping, and identify the signs
of poor fit. Follow step by step to measure, calculate, and execute the best two methods of bust alteration.

WE THINK
Bust adjustments are a topic that sewers stress over and making these adjustments will make a great
improvement in the fit of your garment!

WHERE TO BUY
This book can be bought from the shop over at www.sewchic.com

28 | The Pattern Pages 4f8e807c-deee-4695-9947-12bfa4c06385

 Make
sewing jea
ns
straightfor
ward
with our st
ep-
by-step vid
eo
tutorial on
YouTube

THE FIVE POCKET JEANS

www.wardrobebyme.com
4f8e807c-deee-4695-9947-12bfa4c06385 The Pattern Pages | 29
R EGU L AR S

PATTERN
p r e v i e w Our favourite new patterns hot off the press!

Quebec Skirt, Itch to Stitch

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 REG UL AR S

WAIST CINCHER
Quebec Skirt, Itch to Stitch, Sizes 00-40, $13 (USD), www.itch-to-stitch.com
A jean skirt is really an indispensable garment in your wardrobe. But have you considered a pull-on jean skirt? This one is slim-
fitting and shows off your curves. The skirt has five pockets – one coin, two front, and two back pockets. The back of the skirt
has a split for easy walking and a discrete elastic waist so perfect for going out for weekend brunch!

JEANS FOR EVERYONE!

Five-pocket Jeans, Wardrobe By Me
Sizes 26-42in (men) and 26-40in (women), €13
www.wardrobebyme.com
Love to wear jeans because of their versatility then this pattern
has it all! These five-pocket Jeans are pair of classic, relaxed fit
slim fit with straight legs. They have a regular waist ending at
the belly button and a curved waistband. Complete the look
with heavy topstitching, rivets, and a jeans button. Make them
with 10-13oz woven non-stretch denim, canvas, and similar
weight fabrics.

CHANNEL YOUR
INNER ROCK CHICK!
Rock Steady, Sew La Di Da
Sizes S/M-l/XL, £11
www.sewladidavintage.com
We love this gorgeous new pattern design – it’s called rock-steady
as this coat will become a must-wear in your wardrobe, dependable
and steady-going. Wrap yourself up in comfort and still feel
glamorous! Sew it with a plain sleeve or add a band of pleather,
leather or velvet. This pattern has been designed for boiled wool
and can be made in a day!

4f8e807c-deee-4695-9947-12bfa4c06385 The Pattern Pages | 31

R EGU L AR S

A BLANK CANVAS
Carpe Diem Dress and Tunic, Fit for Art
Sizes XS-3XL, $20 (USD)
www.fitforartpatterns.com
This versatile dress or tunic has a scoop neckline, natural shoulder,
and the pattern brand’s signature square armhole construction.
Choose from three views (sleeveless, cap sleeve, and ¾-length
sleeve, three back closure options (pullover, keyhole with button,
and zipper) and three lengths to make a new style every time!
This garment can be made loosely fashioned to pull over the head
or made more fitted with a centre back keyhole opening or zipper.

BEAUTIFUL
DRAPE
Imogen Dress or Top, Sew Me Something
Sizes 6-20 and 20-34, ¢10
www.sewmesomething.co.uk
This is such a beautiful loose-fit dress (or top) that’s
perfect for all sorts of occasions. It has a flattering
raglan sleeve and a relaxed shape through the body
with a slight trapeze line to give it a little bit of swing.
It will take you through all seasons and a range of
fabrics. Make the top in linen, cotton lawn, cotton
poplin, viscose rayon, double gauze or crepe. The
dress will look lovely in single jersey, medium weight
terry, double gauze or rayon.

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modern patterns
with vintage style
4f8e807c-deee-4695-9947-12bfa4c06385
w ww. s ew c h ic pattern s.com | SewChi cPattern
The PatternCo
Pages | 33
S T YL IS H S E WI NG

CHEERS
The Gin and Tonic Dress from Our Lady of Leisure is a
real eye-catcher! This gorgeous A-line dress has a unique
‘grown-on’ wrap detail. Sew this pattern in two contrasting
fabrics but it looks equally lovely in a single colour too! We
love the lovely wide neckline.

TAKE
TWO Colour blocking is a style where two
colours unexpectedly come together
to look wonderful! Here are a few
patterns to start sewing this look!

SHOP
THE P ME ON
PAGE ATTERN
S WE
BSITE

Gin & Tonic Dress, Our Lady of Leisure

Sizes A-G/6-16/2-14 and H-L/16-24/20-28 (UK/AUS/US), £9
www.thepatternpages.com/thepatternboutique

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 ST YLISH S E WI N G

MIX UP Mixing the comfort of a knit bodice with the possibilities of a woven
fabric skirt, the Washington Dress gives you the freedom to play
with colours and textures! The bodice comes in three-cup sizes to
make fitting a cinch! The knit bodice has a figure-enhancing scoop
neckline and three sleeve options. The A-line skirt cleverly combines
woven fabric with a heavy knit yoke, so there are no closures (yay!).

TWO-SIDED
This casual sweatshirt has
diagonal seams in the
front, a yoke in the front
and back bodice and
www.hantexonline.co.uk/cashmerette

dropped shoulders into

which the sleeves are
inserted to offer lots
Washington Dress, Cashmerette

of styling possibilities!
Make this top multi-
coloured with the
front piece with
diagonal seams and
Sizes 12-28, €13

the longer dipped

hem at the back and
closed by two hem
bands on the sides.

Sue Colorblock Sweatshirt, Schnittchen Patterns, Size 34-46, £8

RETRO-FEEL
This simple shift dress has
just enough features to keep
things interesting, Carnaby is
the perfect palette for playing
with pattern and colour. With
separate skirt and bodice
Carnaby Dress, Nina Lee

www. schnittchen.com/en

pieces, you can easily create a

striking colour block effect or
www.ninalee.co.uk

keep it subtle with just a pop

of contrast in the pockets.
Sizes 6-20, £9

This is a super wearable dress

inspired by the a-line shifts of
the 1960s!

4f8e807c-deee-4695-9947-12bfa4c06385 The Pattern Pages | 35

S T YL IS H S E WI NG

FIT FOR ART SHARES THEIR TOP

TIPS FOR COLOUR-BLOCKING WITH
MIXED FABRICS

Choose a garment pattern with relatively simple,

straight lines that can be constructed in modules.
The Tabula Rasa Jacket or Knit Tee & Tunic and the
Carpe Diem Dress & Tunic are great patterns for
color blocking and mixing fabrics.

Combine fabrics that are similar in weight and

stability (drape for wovens or stretch for knits).
Equalize the fabrics if needed with interfacing
or underlining.

When working with prints, choose fabrics that

have complementary colours and scale (one large,
others small or medium). Choose solid colours with
texture to combine with prints.Experiment with
sashing to pull together disparate fabrics that share
at least one color.

Place fabrics that you find suits you and that’s

appealing closest to your face.

Avoid placing bright or bold fabrics in the areas of your

body that you prefer to downplay.

Feature the more dramatic fabrics - stronger colours

and larger prints in the primary spaces of the garment,
such as the front and back of a top or jacket.

Place softer or darker colours and smaller prints in the

secondary spaces of the garment, such as the sides
and sleeves.

Aim to keep the garment visually balanced, although

not necessarily symmetrical.

Plan to repeat fabrics in multiple places on the garment

to tie it all together. Utilize cuffs, collars, piping, and
other details as places to repeat a fabric.

Assemble your ideas in fabric and drape it on a dress

form or hanger. Look at it close-up, at mid-range and
from a distance to decide if it is balanced and pleasing.

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4f8e807c-deee-4695-9947-12bfa4c06385
ME E T & GR E ET

lets talk
with
fabric
GOOD FABRIC

Good Fabric is
offering TPP readers
an exclusive 15%
discount code. To
take advantage
use discount code
PATTERNPAGES15 at
the checkout over at
www.goodfabric.co.uk

We chat with Polina

Karbanova about how
lockdown, redundancy
and a love of sustainable
fabric championed a new
business venture!

Good Fabric | www.goodfabric.co.uk | good_fabric_store

TELL US WHEN YOUR BUSINESS STORY STARTED?

M
y business story starts in 2020, out of lockdown with a new skill. I’d worked patterns and composition, and I wanted
when I was made redundant for years in fashion product development an eco-wardrobe, not a beige parade! My
following a decade-plus long and production, so it was about time that I fashion supply chain experience, passion
career with big fashion names like Burberry, actually learned how to sew for myself. for sewing, and desire to work for myself
Ted Baker, Missoma, and Anya Hindmarch. The sustainable fabric options that I was all came crashing together. I simply had to
Like a lot of crafters, I wanted to come finding online were so limited in colours, create Good Fabric!

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 ME E T & G R E E T

WHAT CRITERIA DO YOU USE TO All our paper packaging such as mailing circle of destroying the sustainability of our
ENSURE THE FABRICS YOU STOCK ARE bags and Thank You cards are made from planet. So as dressmakers and sewists, we
ECO-FRIENDLY? recycled paper and can be further recycled, have the buying power to make a positive
Every fabric we sell at Good Fabric has at although we wanted to create packaging change.
least one eco-credential, which means that you would want to keep and be useful.
they’re all super, super green. From GOTS Our Thank You cards serve as super handy WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE
to Oeko-Tex, it can feel a little daunting percentage stretch guide. You can read ANYONE ABOUT MAKING SMALL STEPS
figuring out what all the different eco more about the steps we’re taking to be TOWARDS SUSTAINABILITY?
credentials mean. We’ve created an Eco sustainable on our Packaging & Processes We all want to look after our lovely planet
Credentials Glossary, explaining the page. Earth, and by working together we are
different acronyms and certifications used moving towards sustainability becoming
in the descriptions. It’s important for us to WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT WORKING mainstream and accessible to all.
share what these terms mean for sewists, WITH SUSTAINABLE FABRIC THE MOST, For those of us wanting to be more
instead of bombarding you with loads of AND DO YOU HAVE ANY FAVOURITES? mindful about the clothes we wear, there’s
confusing technical jargon. I love sustainable fabrics because it truly lots of helpful information available, and
is so much more than just a pretty fabric. there are so many things we can do to
HOW DOES GOOD FABRIC MAKE The work that goes into creating and improve our eco-friendly wardrobe. Top
IT EASIER TO CHOOSE GUILT-FREE maintaining sustainability has huge positive of the list is making use and taking care of
FABRICS? impact on local communities, on people’s the items we already own, as well as buying
Every section at Good Fabric in Eco section, health and the environment. second hand, or buying from independent
so you don’t have to choose what’s right I have a soft spot for GOTS organic makers of sustainable clothing.
for the environment and what looks fabric, as it is incredibly strict certification, If you’re a keen sewist or DIY dressmaker
beautiful, it can be both. Sewing your own yet it has humongous effect on people and are considering buying sustainable
garments with Good Fabric materials gives and the planet. It is all starts at the cotton fabric to sew your own eco-friendly
you reassurance that there is no harm farms, where GOTS bans the use synthetic clothing, first and foremost, embrace slow
happening to the environment and people pesticides, which means that cotton and mindful sewing. It is so easy to be
involved creating these beautiful fabrics and farmers can grow their food on the same inspired by amazing and talented sewists
sewing supplies. farm and therefore provide for their families on social media, that we often dive into a
and local communities. It is not something sewing project without considering if it’s
IT’S THE FULL PACKAGE AS YOUR that we often think about, but bottom line it truly our style and if it suits our body shape.
PACKAGING COMES WITH ECO helps prevent food poverty. Identify gaps in your wardrobe, see if
CERTIFICATIONS TOO, DOESN’T IT? Another way of looking at it is though there is a distinctive colour palette that you
Absolutely! We believe that there is no excuse the lens of local environment. When these are drawn to or type of fit that you prefer,
for any craft brand not to have sustainable harmful chemicals are sprayed, they get and then choose your next sewing project
and recyclable packaging, whether they’re to the soil and water, killing insects and based on your needs and your style. You
big or small. We’re committed to have zero fish, which result in lack of food for birds will end up with #memade outfit that you
plastic in our packaging. and animals. It becomes a never-ending love and wear non-stop.

4f8e807c-deee-4695-9947-12bfa4c06385 The Pattern Pages | 39

LE A RN TO S E W

REDUCING
bulk
Create crisp, flat seams by clipping, notching, trimming and grading your seam allowances!

START WI TH A S EAM AL L OWANCE

Seam allowances are usually between ¼in to ½in depending on the pattern designer and sewing pattern. This will be stated
somewhere on the pattern instructions. It’s important to maintain this seam allowance when constructing so that the garment will
fit as expected. For these samples, we’ve used two layers that are different colours so it’s easier to see.

T R I M M I N G
A pattern may say, trim to reduce bulk, this is the process of cutting off the excess fabric on thicker fabrics from the seam allowance.
When two layers are sewn together like on a neckline with facing and turned right side out, there will now be four layers of fabric.
By trimming the seam allowance, this will reduce those extra bulky layers so the seams lay flat! It’s very easy to do – simply cut the
seam allowance on both layers to about half the width.
TIP: Trim one side at a time for the best results.

G R A D I N G
Grading is when the two seam allowances are trimmed to different widths. This can be used
along side trimming when a seam allowance is enclosed for example on collars, necklines
and belts. Start by trimming the seam allowance that will lay closet to the body and then trim
the other layer slightly longer. This prevents bulk along the seam that would be seen once the
fabric turned the right side out and pressed.

TIPS AND TOOLS

1. 3.
Choose a shorter stitch length about When matching a concave curve to a convex
2mm to make it easier to get around the curve – pin the centre of the fabrics first.
tight curves.

4.
Use a tailor’s ham to help press out curves in a

2.
garment, such as a princess seam, collar stand,
Use a point turner or chopstick to get a
curved dart or a hip curve, By ironing the seam
good pint on an inner corner.
over the curved edges of the ham, the garment will
mould to that 3D shape and fit your body better.

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C L I P P I N G

CORNERS
When sewing a garment with an outer corner like on a collar or belt, you need to remove the excess fabric from the corners by
clipping into them to make sure they lay flat once they are turned right side out and pressed. Be careful when clipping that you
don’t cut the seam itself and cut the corner off diagonally.
Inner corners need to be handled the same way so they lay properly when turned tight side out. If you miss this step, the corner
can bulge with the extra fabric and they don’t press well either!

INNER CURVES
Inward curves are the concave ones,
which occur around the neckline and
armholes of a garment. For best results,
trim the seam allowance down to 1/4in
and from the raw edge clip in towards
the seam at regular 1/4in intervals. This is
necessarily to do because as the inner
seam curve is longer than the seam
allowance and when turned to the right
side the curve won’t lay flat.

N O T C H I N G
OUTER CURVES
Outward curves are convex and require
notching such as princess seams. First,
trim the curve down to about 1/4in. Using
a sharp pair of scissors to clip V-shaped
notches along the curve. You can also
do this with a pair of or pinking shears.
The outer curve is shorter than the seam
allowance so left the seam allowance
would bulge once turned right side out.

TIP: Avoid trimming on very lightweight

or loosely woven fabrics. It is best to
under stitch or use French seams.

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 However you see yourself as
THE
SPLITPAY IN 3 a screen siren or a demure
&
COST A diva, let us help you fulfil
ST L MENTS your creativity and entice the
IN
designer within!

AWARD
WINNING
PATTERN CUTTING WORKSHOPS
We are back on full strength with our award winning Body Working in a small group of four (covid-safe,) with Frankie
Blueprint workshops! an intuitive Pattern Cutter and Caroline on hand for design,
construction techniques and tips, they will work with you to
Whatever your style and shape working with women’s contours realise you’re creations building your confidence and enhancing
and body issues, Sew La Di Da Vintage has designed a workshop your sewing skills. With a group consultation, we’ll identify you’re
to enable you to do just that. Hurrah Hurrah at last freedom for design personality, occasion and of course, body shape, and
sewers, create your own designs and turn them into a reality! then create a toile of your unique figure, three-dimensionally.

“
When satisfied with the fit we then, work on the table and move
Wherever you’re Sewing Journey has taken you, I’m all your ‘fit darts’ into seams for a design of your choice and
pretty sure you’ve experienced the frustration of fitting vision.
ones self, need I say more! The Body Blue Print is a
‘fantastic workshop’ designed to empower you to be in You will learn the importance of notches, which we call
control of creating a vision and then bringing it to life. the commas and full stops of pattern making, essential for
I’m always delighted and inspired by the creativity in constructing your garment. You will then make another toile of
these workshops. that design. As this is your sewing experience at this junction,
says Caroline Smith owner and designer you can start to make your garment or work on yet another
design and go home with two designs (time allowing).

To book now visit www.sewladidavintage.com and click on ‘workshops’

42 | The Pattern Pages 4f8e807c-deee-4695-9947-12bfa4c06385 ADVERTORIAL
 SP EC I AL S

A-Z
who’s who in
france
This time, we take a look at some of the pattern makers from France
who’s patterns are in English

ANNA ROSE PATTERNS ATELIER SCAMMIT

www.annarosepatterns.com/en www.atelier-scammit.fr

Maud Demarque is the designer of Anna Rose patterns and Johanna Meyer created Atelier Scammit when she missed
creates patterns that are simple, timeless, wearable and a little creating after working in the fashion industry. It started as a blog
quirky at the same time! She designs clothes that please her, but and gained momentum. Her patterns are beautiful yet simple.
also she puts forward different versions so that sewers have lots If A-line blouses with subtle detailing are your bag, then this
of choices to sew. pattern label will become a favourite with you!

CITRONELLE CORALIE BIJASSON

www.citronille.fr/en www.coralie-bijasson.com/gb

Citronille is a brand of sewing patterns created by Astrid Le Coralie Bijasson offers a wide range of sewing patterns for
Provost. The pattern label has 20 clothing designs for women beginners and more advanced sewer. There’s something for
and children in a clean and easy to make styles. every taste – everything you need to expand your wardrobe.

DEER AND DOE DP STUDIO

www.deer-and-doe.com www.dpstudio-fashion.com

Deer and Doe is probably one of the best- known French- Dominique Pellen is the founder of dp studio. This creative studio
speaking pattern companies. Eléonore started Deer and Doe promotes innovative, precise and user-friendly ways of learning,
ten years ago with the goal of offering well-drafted sewing perfecting and reaching high professional patternmaking
patterns that would be both easy to sew and wear. standards. All its patterns have been put together to help users
follow through their creative clothing projects.

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S P ECIAL S

I AM PATTERNS
I AM Patterns, www.iampatterns.fr/en

Marie-Emilienne is the founder and designer and works with

her sister Blandine to combine their passions of sewing and
teaching. Their aim is to make the sewing savoir-faire accessible
to all and wake passions. I AM Patterns has inspired thousands
of people around the world to cut, pin and sew beautiful clothes
that truly represent them with simple, contemporary patterns!

IKATEE
Ikatee, www.ikatee.com

Until recently, this sewing pattern company only produced

children’s styles. However, Stéphanie Godefroy, the designer has
recently started to produce a selection of patterns in women’s
sizes too.

LES LUBIES DE CADIA

www.leslubiesdecadia-shop.com

Cadia designs elegant sewing patterns for women who want to

be comfortable in their clothes. A guide containing a QR code,
which leads to technical videos to help you along the way,
accompanies all sewing patterns!

LYSIMAQUE PATTERNS en.lysimaque-sew.com

d skirt DP Studio
Founded by Floriane in 2018, she offers simple but original and
fun designs. The sewing patterns often come with different
modular options such as collar, sleeves, length, yoke and many
more, so that you can have fun varying your creations!
iste

MAISON FAUVE
Pattern: Le High-wa

www.maison-fauve.com

Emilie Faurie is the designer and creates women’s sewing

pattern for a contemporary and feminine wardrobe, offering a
selection of sewing patterns. These patterns come with English
translation.

MAKE MY LEMONADE
www.makemylemonade.com

Make My Lemonade was the first brand to offer limited edition

clothes to make yourself. Each collection is a new story, and
every month, a sewing pattern from the collection is offered. All
its collections and patterns are designed by Lisa Gachet in Paris
and manufactured in their workshops in Europe.

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 SP EC I AL S

P&M PATTERNS
pm-patterns.com/en

Karine Aivazian established this brand, creating patterns that are

timeless and modern. Her aim was (and still is) to offer patterns
that are well drafted and easy to sew for children and women.

READY TO SEW
www.readytosew.fr/en

Fashion and designer-entreprenuer, Raphaëlle Bonamy designs

for individuals who want to discover or develop their sewing
skills and create a sustainable wardrobe. Ready to Sew offers
you straightforward, minimalist and easy-to-sew patterns that
are more intelligently and sustainably made.

REPUBLIQUE DU
CHIFFON
www.republiqueduchiffon.com/en

Founded by Géraldine Debeauvais, this pattern label is much

more than sewing patterns, it’s all about the notion of sharing,
learning and the pleasure of creating. Timeless, and modern
designs are combined with subtle and refined curves to provide
sewers with unique pieces, made by themselves.

VANESSA POUZET
www.eshop.vanessapouzet.com/en

Vanessa Pouzet is a fashion designer from Paris who creates

simple and modern sewing patterns. Currently Vanessa has
seven sewing patterns in English.
w

ZERO WASTE
To Se
Ready

DESIGNS ONLINE
eralls

www.zerowastedesignonline.com
er Ov

Mylène L’Orguilloux specialises in waste free patterns and is part

Partn

of the design team behind ZWDO. This open source pattern

library access is managed through a contributive debt model,
rn:

which means they are accessible to sewers under donation.

Patte

FRENCH ONLY
For those sewers who are lucky enough to speak French, you might like to also check out these French pattern labels:

Anne Bo, www.annebo.fr | Aime Comme Marie, www.aimecommemarie.com

Anne Kerdilès Couture, www.annekerdilescouture.com | Atelier Charlotte Auzou, www.ateliercharlotteauzou.com
Delphine et Morissette, www.delphinemorissette.blogspot.com | Louis Antoinette, www.fiercommeunpaon.com
Mimoi, www.mimoi.fr | Patrons les BG, www.patronslesbg.com | Slow Sunday Paris, www.slow-sunday-paris.com

4f8e807c-deee-4695-9947-12bfa4c06385 The Pattern Pages | 45

ME E T & GR E ET

THE DPL
ATELIER
UNLEASH YOUR INNER FASHION
DESIGNER WITH 10% OFF OUR
AFFORDABLE MEMBERSHIP,
FIXED FOR LIFE!

ENTER CODE:

PATTERNPAGES10

www.digitalpatternlibrary.com
46 | The Pattern Pages 4f8e807c-deee-4695-9947-12bfa4c06385
@digitalpatternlibrary
 REG UL AR S

OOO
SH
INY!
WE
Very Peri Ways to add a touch of this new
colour to your everyday!
The Pantone colour for 2022 is Very Peri
Three gemstone stud earrings is
certainly the best way to add a little and represents the mood of the moment.
glamour into your everyday outfit. 18ct Pantone created this new colour that
Rose Gold Vermeil San Shi Amethyst combines violet red undertones and blues
Stud Earrings from www.tsaixtsai.com to represent our transforming physical and
digital world. This has happened following
our recent lockdowns and isolations, and
represents how the digital world has a new
place in our lives.

T IALS
S EN
ES

LUXURIOUS KNIT
How gorgeous would this
waisted dress with faux wrap and
separate sash look in this colour.
It’s designed and sized for stretch
knit fabrics and perfect for lots of
occasions. New Look 6680 from
www.sewdirect.com

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ME E T & GR E ET

t he
MEET

MAKER
Alexandra Wall from Digital Pattern Library explains how she’s helping
sewists unleash their inner designer!

textile waste that would otherwise end up with a statement sleeve that offers versatility
on the cutting room floor. as a shirt or jacket! #DPLGlitch
I have worked with over 400 clients and
Why is teaching sewers an important brands, so Digital Pattern Library is where I
part of your ethos and tell us how the can liberate my creativity with no bounds!
fashion file packs help this process?
Anyone can learn to sew, but designing Tell us more about The DPL Atelier
and pattern making are also a skill in their membership?
own right, and to learn these skills to a I help creatives transform their 2D ideas into
professional level is actually quite an elitist 3D garments in a simple but powerful way.
and privileged route. It’s perfect for beginners and more
Whether or not you religiously thumb advanced sewers alike. Through my
through the pages of Vogue, fashion really signature Create, Cut, Construct framework
does affect each and every one of us. It’s my creative community and I design, pattern

I
believe everyone has an inner fashion a form of communication, to share your draft and sew our very own garments over
designer waiting to be unleashed so the voice, what you stand for and who you are. a three-month cycle before repeating the
Digital Pattern Library (DPL) is all about We all deserve that platform. process with a new garment style.
making high-end luxury and sustainable So if I can bring formal, luxury training
fashion accessible for all through modern in fashion to the masses in an affordable,
sewing patterns and tutorials. enjoyable and empowering way, I will.
Beyond my affordable fashion membership,
DPL patterns have an unquestionable I host the Free 3 Day Design Challenge four
designer-feel but what can sewers times a year where I teach industry standard
expect from your digital patterns? design skills and give away prizes.
Not only do I strive for comfort, versatility
and style, but each PDF pattern comes What inspires your pattern designs and
with a bonus fashion file pack to further are they any new ones in the pipeline?
support the sewist in developing their skills Given my 9-5 is actually spent setting up
across construction and pattern drafting fashion brands over at Xandra Jane Design,
techniques without the overwhelm. my pattern releases took a backseat during
The patterns themselves are easy to the chaos of the last couple of years.
follow with clear instructions resulting in a However, in that time I have launched
unique look and improved skills, sustainable The DPL Atelier whereby I, alongside
tips and tricks are incorporated and we even my creative community, create, cut and
provide fun projects like the Crys Backpack construct a new garment style over a three-
(pronounced ‘krees’, which means shirt in month cycle. Therefore, four times a year,
Welsh!), which is intended to be up-cycled you can now expect new pattern releases.
from an unloved shirt destined for landfill. We’re currently working on bringing our
I’ve also vowed to provide innovative, free shirt ideas to life, so the next pattern will
scrap buster patterns that save the 15% of be the Glitch Shirt. An androgynous pattern

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 ME E T & G R E E T

As mentioned already, we’re currently working on a shirt but the that. Who better to design for you, than you! Designed by you.
next framework will be all about a sundress in time for the warmer Made by you. Worn by you.
months and trousers and a coat to design later in the year. You also
don’t have to follow along with the framework to benefit from the You’ve won some awards, most recently Fashion Designer of
membership, there’s hundreds of learning resources to dip into at the Year in the Wales Prestige Awards 2021/2022, tell us a bit
your leisure. about them?
For instance, there’s access to every PDF sewing pattern and Yes, that was a lovely surprise! I’ve been recognised for a few things
fashion file pack, exclusive online tutorials, workshops, patterns and over the years, most notably my efforts within sustainability and
monthly creative co-working sessions where we come together fashion. I was invited to talk at the UK’s largest fashion and textiles
and make a dent in our creative to-do piles. trade show about ‘How to Fast Track Your Brand with Sustainable
It really is the full fashion process and I’m so proud of the safe Credentials’ (you can watch that on YouTube!). I’ve also been a
online space we’ve created to express yourself through clothes. finalist for many accolades such as Sustainable Business, Female
Many people are fed-up with sizing charts, sewing the same Business Leader, New Business and Sustainability Champion - all
pattern as someone else on Instagram or relying on companies to celebrating my achievements within fashion across both Digital
release designs that align to their style – so The DPL Atelier solves Pattern Library and Xandra Jane Design.

Digital Pattern Library | www.digitalpatternlibrary.com | digitalpatternlibrary

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CLONE YOUR
Is there something in your wardrobe

CLOTHES that you love and wish you had a

pattern for? Why not recreate and
make a pattern from it

5 TOP WHAT YOU WILL NEED:

PATTERN PAPER | PAPER SCISSORS | PINS OR PATTERN WEIGHTS

TIPS SHARP PENCIL | RULER | TAPE

TIP: USE A FLEXIBLE RULER TO MAKE ANY CURVES

PREPARE THE ORIGINAL CHOOSE A SIMILAR FABRIC PL ACING GARMENT

GARMENT The designer of the original garment will TO FABRIC
Start with a simple garment like a knit top have matched the fabric weight with Keep your garment as flat as possible
that can be copied by placing it flat on a the design, so to get the best result you and pin through the garment and
work surface and tracing the seam lines. should also pick a similar weight fabric. paper to secure in place. A thimble
Before you place it on the fabric, iron out Always pre-shrink as usual. is handy to do this to avoid pricking
any wrinkles. your fingers. Keep the centre fold a
PATTERN PIECES long the longer edge of the paper.
TRANSFERRING RELEVANT Label all your pieces, and make sure you Secure in place corners with pins or
INFORMATION add the grain lines. Take the garment off pattern weights.
Make sure you transfer all the markings and add the seam allowances and that
such as darts, where seams intersect, the other markings are clear. Cut out TIP: You don’t need to trace the
collar points, buttonhole and pocket with a sharp pair of paper scissors and whole garment in one go – use the
placements. Trace around the garment you are ready to pin your new pattern to back and front of your garment on
with a sharp pencil. your fabric! the centre fold.

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LE A RN TO S E W

MAKE
a wrap
TOPKaroline Dahrling Hughes turns
a T-shirt in your wardrobe into a
beautiful top that can be worn with the
wrap toward the front or the back

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marking and cutting the fabric

1. Use a T-shirt in your wardrobe as a template. Fold the bottom corner of the sleeve
IC template up so it easier to draw the underarm curve.
FABR ONS:
G G ESTI ven 2. Make the style markings as follows:
SU t wo h
a. For front and back – mark the sleeves at the desired length or make them as long as
weig , or
the fabric allows.
Light i s cose b. Add extra seam allowance 2in (5cm) to the sides and under the arm since you’re using
n , v
cotto
woven and not T-shirt fabric.
l k f a brics c. Add 2in (5cm) plus for a boxier and looser look and fit and use a seam allowance of
s i ½- ¾in (1.3–1.9cm) for the neckline, sleeve openings, and bottom edges.

back: Trace your T-shirt half-template along the fabric fold following
the back neck cutting line.

front:
1. Position the T-shirt full on two layers
of fabric with right sides together.
Centre it so you can mark the same
sleeve length as the back. Mark the
shoulder, arm, and side seams of the
right edge of the template, matching the back piece.
2. As you mark the bottom of the T-shirt front to match the T-shirt back, and extend the cutting line on the left side
about 8in (20cm), gently curving it upward, as shown.
3. Use a ruler to mark a diagonal line from the neck opening at the right shoulder point through the left side seam,
slightly below the underarm seam, and continuing to 2in (5cm) above the bottom hem marking on the left side.
Draw a straight line from the end of the diagonal line to the extended hem marking.

bands:
1. Measure around your body to determine the lengths for the tie bands. They should be long enough so you can
tie them in a bow. Mark 2 bands, each 2in wide by the length to wrap around your body and tie comfortably.
2. Mark and cut 1 back piece on the fabric fold, 2 front pieces, and 2 band pieces.

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LE A RN TO S E W

sewing
1. Pin the front pieces to the back piece with right sides together and the overlap
in position. Stitch the upper sleeve seams first, from the neck edge to the ends of
the sleeves.

2. With right sides together, sew the underarm seams, starting at the
sleeve opening.

3. With right sides together, sew one narrow end of each

band to the straight edge near the hemline of each
extended front piece.

tip: Try on the garment and make any fit or design

adjustments before finishing the edges.

4. Finish all the edges, including the bottom hem,

with a narrow single-fold or double-fold hem.

This project has been reproduced from the book, Stylehacking by Karoline Dahrling
Hughes with permission of C & T Publishing. The book shows you how to turn
essentials found in your wardrobe like a tee and transform them into something new!
Published by Stash Books and available from Search Press, you can buy this from
www.amazon.co.uk

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OFFICIAL STOCKIST

thepatternpages.com
4f8e807c-deee-4695-9947-12bfa4c06385
LE A RN TO S E W

THE
Sangria Jumpsuit

MEET THE SANGRIA

JUMPSUIT FROM
OUR LADY OF LEISURE
A few years ago, we thought the
jumpsuit was just one of those
seasonal trends – here today and
gone tomorrow, but the jumpsuit is
here to stay and we’re seeing them
in pretty pastel colours this season.

The Sangria Jumpsuit is a beautiful,

relaxed one-piece garment that suits
a wide variety of body types! It has a
deep scoop neck, Palazzo legs, and a
relaxed shape that cinches with waist
ties. This season is all about wider leg

FREE
trousers and this jumpsuit is ideal for
life’s special moments. The Sangria
is an excellent beginner’s entry
pattern in to the world of jumpsuits
and the ideal addition to your spring
for annual magazine wardrobe! Our Lady of Leisure has its
own sizing in A-G, which is equivalent
subscribers of to 2-14 (US) and 6-16 (AUS & UK) but
it is best to follow the sizing chart to
thepatternpages.com get the best fit.

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WHAT FABRICS SHOULD I CHOOSE?

This super stylish pattern is designed for woven fabrics such as lightweight
cottons, linens, synthetics and rayons. It’s suitable for a variety of finishes,
including plain weave, twill, satin, or crepe and perfect for a big floral!
Stretch fabrics are also suitable, but not recommended for inexperienced
sewers. If you do choose a stretchy fabric, make sure you cut one size
smaller for the best results.

Multi Floral Grey Rayon Combines the cool, natural feel of linen with the
Print from Modelo’s practicality of cotton. The Barbury Collection
Mistral Collection from Modelo comes in eight colour ways, and in
www.hantexonline. narrow and wide stripe as well as solid colour.
co.uk/rayon www.hantexonline.co.uk/modelo

Get your copy

1
TIPS FOR PERFECTING THE FINISH!
Preshrink - Always pre-wash your fabric, allow to dry flat and press flat!
Snipping the curves - Release the seam allowances in the armpit and
neckline areas with a couple of snips into the seam allowance – this will
thepatternpages.com help the bodice sit flat when turned right side out.
annual magazine Facings - If you’re finding sewing the facings tricky. Lay the pieces flat on
subscribers a table to line them up correctly, and use plenty of pins. The facings are
Subscribers can find their
easier to manipulate than the bodice pieces so keep them on top while
free copy of the Sangria
you sew and take your time. Go slow around corners, and don’t watch the
Jumpsuit within the exclusive
needle, watch the fabric!
‘Subscribers Only’ section.
Seam finish - Finishing seams with an overlocker is probably the best
Download by 6th May 2022
method to finish the seams on your jumpsuit but a zigzag stitch is a great
www.thepatternpages.com/
second choice, or trimming with pinking shears also works well too.
subscribers-only/

2
ABOUT OUR LADY OF LEISURE
Cherie Interro is the designer behind Our Lady of
Leisure – the patron saints of Sunday sewing with a
collection of divine sewing patterns. She believes
sewing should be a heavenly experience, so her
designs are modern and delightful! Patterns
Subscribe are figure-friendly with pain-free instructions
To take out a new subscription and that are easy-to-understand and come with
get this pattern with Issue 25. painstakingly illustrated diagrams, and indulge in
Visit www.thepatternpages.com/ a sneaky short cut now and then too!
shop-subscribe and subscribe for
£26.50 for a whole year. www.thepatternpages.com/thepatternboutique

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the
EDIT
Hear me ROAR!
To quote Katy Perry, the animal print trend comes and goes, and this season it’s clear that wildlife-
inspired patterns are a roaring success!

What’s the trend? How the High Street

From leopard print dresses is doing it? Our styling tips...
to zebra-patterned tops,
these are all the animal- This spring wearers of all ages As a strong print, this
themed pieces to add to your are being encouraged to add works well with fabrics
wardrobe now! Animal print animal print to their wardrobe with a lot of drape and
can be worn to the office in to give them an edge. It’s not patterns that are loose
the form of a pencil skirt or just the big cat animal prints fitting.
tailored blazer or worn as a that we’re seeing but cow and
sporty top for the weekend. zebra prints are popular too!

Get the look with these three options from the pattern makers

This top is a versatile

Make a faux wrap dress This print looks fab in a floaty skirt wardrobe workhorse
Lois Dress, Sew Over It Ella Skirt, Forget-me-not Patterns Tia Blouse, Michelle Sews
www.sewoverit.com www.forgetmenotpatterns.com www.michellesews.com

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 LE ARN TO SE W

Lipsy has gone for drama with this printed V-neck midi dress with ruched
front and sleeve, which is available from www.next.co.uk/lipsy

Tips for taking a walk on the wildside!

1. Stick with one animal print per outfit.
2. Think about the newer prints such as zebra and cow prints.
3. They can add some fun and drama to your wardrobe!
4. Team up with a black and white solids or a colour from the print for the rest of your outfit.

Some of our favourite fabrics:

High Street Style

LEOPARD ZEBRA CHEETAH

Stof Jersey Cotton poplin by Rose & Hubble Viscose twill
www.goodfabric.co.uk www.hotpinkhaberdashery.com www.lamazifabrics.com

RAYON PRINTS WITH COLOUR

The Animalia Exotica Sand - Indigo & Aster
Animal print rayon from Modelo
collection designed by Bari J for Art Gallery Fabrics
www.hantexonline.co.uk/modelo
www.hantexonline.co.uk/art-gallery-fabrics

ACCESSORISE
Oversized Animal Green Scarf
Zebra Umbrella, National
£25, www.oliverbonas.com
Geographic Charity Range
£6.99, www.tkmaxx.com

Hilo Block Heels,

£69, www.office.co.uk

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S P ECIAL S

Beautiful
People
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The Fool designs inside The Beatles Apple Boutique, 1967 | Copyright Karl Ferris
 SP EC I AL S

A retrospective look at this London exhibition celebrating

Chelsea’s fashion scene during the 1960s
of the time, and inspired new ideas, freedom of expression and
The Fashion and Textile Museum opposition to establishment values. Fuelled by this creative
determination, a generation of radical young designers emerged,
The Fashion and Textile Museum (FTM) is the only museum in the catering to an elite group of artists, aristocrats and musicians – The
UK that’s dedicated to highlighting contemporary fashion and textile Beautiful People.
design in the form of exhibitions, and exciting educational courses,
talks, events and workshops. Founded in 2003 by an icon of British
design, Dame Zandra Rhodes, the museum is today operated
by Newham College – one of Europe’s largest further education
colleges. It’s situated in the heart of fashionable Bermondsey
Village, and there’s no mistaking this beautiful and distinctive
building, designed by Mexican architect, Ricardo Legorreta.

Beautiful People exhibition

Photographed by Simon Emmett

This immersive show was a vibrant celebration of ’60s fashion,
looking at how the youthquake – significant cultural, social change
arising from the actions or influence of young people – translated

Dame Zandra Rhodes

into a creative hotbed of radical designers based in or around SW3
that sparked this fashion revolution.
The King’s Road, London was definitely the place to go in the ’60s
if you loved your fashion. For the Chelsea boutiques of the mid-
1960s, individuality was the order of the day. Changing attitudes
towards gender and sexuality, framed by the socio-political climate

4f8e807c-deee-4695-9947-12bfa4c06385
The Boutique in 1960s Counterculture | Copyright FTM
The Pattern Pages | 61
S P ECIAL S

The Fool designs on the Apple Boutique

stairs. Models Anke Ferris, Charlotte Martin
& Renate | Copyright Karl Ferris.

Beautiful People/ The Boutique in 1960s Counterculture

“We were young, rich and beautiful, and the

tide – we thought – was turning in our favour.
We were going to change everything, of course,
but mostly we were going to change the rules,”
Marianne Faithfull
Curated by Dennis Nothdruft, head of exhibitions at the Fashion iconic boutiques: Hung On You, Granny Takes A Trip, Biba, Apple
and Textile Museum, in collaboration with Mark and Cleo Butterfield Boutique, Apple Tailoring, Mr Fish, Dandie Fashions and Quorum.
of C20 Vintage, the exhibition presented more than one hundred It’s a vision of oversized lapels, experimental graphics, flamboyant
ensembles across three galleries, exploring fabulous and rare florals and striking tailoring.
examples from these era-defining counterculture stores. Designs Some six decades later, things have gone full circle as designers
worn by pop idols likes of the Beatles, the Rolling Stones and Jimi such as Prada, Raf Simons and Marine Serre are turning to optical
Hendrix, are displayed in colourful, graphic recreations of eight prints and geometric motifs in their collections.

There is still a week to go until this exhibition closes - 13th March 2022 so if you find yourself in London
over the next few days you can buy at www.fashiontextilemuseum.org

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