REMOVING-REFITTING THE ENGINE

• Remove the front lid.

Removing-refitting the front compartment lid
• Remove the spare wheel housing.
Removing /refitting the spare wheel housing

• Working from inside the engine compartment, loosen the cap for the hydraulic steering reservoir.

• Loosen the water nourice cap.

1
• Loosen the oil reservoir cap.

• Drain the A/C fluid circuit.

2
• Detach the air filter duct clips and remove it

• Unscrew the oil draining pipe clip next to the air flow meter.

3
• Unscrew the plenum chamber/throttle connector clip.

• Detach the air flow meter connector.

4
• Release the throttle cabling

• Remove the throttle / air flow meter assembly.

5
N.B.
Suitably plug the plenum chamber "intake".

• Working from the underbody, unscrew the four screws and disassemble the front frame (Figure 1).

N.B.
Using a felt-tip pen, mark the relative positions of the two parts of the front frame (Figure 2).

6
• Remove the central exhaust line.
Removing/refitting the central exhaust line
• Drain the cooling system fluid by unscrewing the radiator plug.

7
• Drain the lubrication system oil by unscrewing the duct to the tank.

• Disconnect the torsion bar from its connecting rods.

8
• Disconnect the torsion bar from the body by unscrewing the two screws on each jumper.

• Unscrew the six steering box protection screws.

9
• (MY2003) Remove the four fastening screws on the transmission shaft support bracket.

• Unscrew its eight fastening screws and remove the transmission shaft heat shield.

10
• Remove the heat shield for the spare wheel housing by unscrewing its six screws.

• Release the clutch hydraulic hose from its seven metal clips.

11
• Detach the rear Lambda sensor connectors.

• Unscrew the four locknuts securing the catalytic converter support to the clutch housing and remove the
support.

12
• Remove the handbrake cable.
Removing-refitting the handbrake and tie-rods

• Remove the gearbox oil recycling unit guard.

• Working from both sides, loosen the four screws securing the rear frame.

13
• Detach the clutch hydraulic duct Victaulic coupling.

• Extract the clutch hydraulic duct.

14
• Position a hydraulic lift underneath the gearbox housing.

• Unscrew the rear frame fastening screws.

15
• Unscrew the eight nuts connecting the transmission shaft to the clutch housing.

• Release the gearbox oil radiator clips.

16
• Loosen the two oil union screws on the gearbox housing.

N.B.
This enables rotating the gearbox unit when it is being moved back.

• Unscrew the screws of both engine rubber bushings.

17
• Position a hydraulic lift underneath the engine shield.

• Move the gearbox/transmission shaft assembly back by about 10cm, so that the clutch housing stud bolts
completely disengage from the transmission shaft.

18
• Unscrew the A/C duct.

• Detach the engine earth cable from the chassis.

19
• Disconnect the clutch sensor from the gearbox unit.

• Position the tool 900026210 between the engine damper and the front chassis and remove the hydraulic
lift.

20
• Working from inside the engine compartment, detach the water nourice hoses; The nourice hoses must
also be freed from the clips securing them to the engine compartment.

• Unscrew the two screws securing the water nourice to the chassis.

21
• Detach the nourice connector pins.

• Detach the vacuum tube from the secondary air valve.

22
• Remove the water nourice from the car.

• Free the oil reservoir from the oil decanter hose and from the oil vapour collector hose.

23
• Free the oil reservoir from the oil return hose. (Figure 1).

N.B.
Fit a plug to the oil return hose (Figure 2).

24
• Detach the coil connector plates on the RH and LH sides of the engine compartment,
To access the external plate screw, the connector must be temporarily removed (1).

• Extract the connector unit from the clip.

25
• Disconnect the brake servo hose from the plenum chamber.

• Free the secondary air system vacuum tank hose from its clips.

26
• Disconnect the heating system hose by slackening its clip. (Figure 1).

N.B.
Fit a plug to the heating system delivery sleeve. (Figure 2).

27
• Unscrew the air pump sleeve clip.

• Unscrew the secondary air valve sleeve clip

28
• Extract the pneumatic valve check pipe from the secondary air valve

• Unscrew the screws securing the rigid pipe connected to the secondary air system pneumatic valves and
extract the pipe itself.

29
• Unscrew the hydraulic steering system steering box/pump duct.

• Unscrew the hydraulic steering system tank/pump duct.

30
• Unscrew the screw securing the window fluid reservoir support clip to the car body.

• Remove the rear gravel guard from the front RH wheelhouse.

31
• Remove the two window fluid reservoir cable clips.

• Remove the carpet from the passenger foot area.

32
• Detach the two connectors from the ECU.

• Disconnect the earth cable.

33
• Detach the two dashboard connectors.

• From inside the engine compartment, extract the wiring.

34
• Unscrew the engine service wiring screw (1), the power fuse box cable screws (2) and the earth cable (3).

N.B.:
For the right-hand drive version, the cable is positioned on the left-hand side of the engine
compartment.

35
• Unscrew the union connecting the fuel pipes to the injector rails (one per bank).

• Fit the engine in a harness so that the belts pass around the exhaust manifolds.

36
• Unscrew the rubber bushings on the engine mounting brackets.

• Extract the engine from the car using a hydraulic lift.

N.B.
Guide the engine so as to prevent parts hitting and damaging the bodywork and rest it on the stand
900026230.

37
When fitting, follow the procedures described above in reverse order.

• Tighten the four screws securing the engine bushing to the engine underframe to a torque of 50Nm.
• Reconnect the handbrake cable.
Removing-refitting the handbrake and tie-rods
• Fit the central exhaust line.
Removing/refitting the central exhaust line
• Mount the spare wheel housing.
Removing /refitting the spare wheel housing
• Mount the front lid
Removing/refitting the engine compartment lid

38
FILLING THE CIRCUITS AND CHECKING THE LEVELS

Engine compartment panels

• In order to check and top up the levels of the brakes/clutch hydraulic control fluid and the power steering
fluid, remove the left-hand panel B from the engine compartment. To remove the engine compartment
panels, rotate the fixing pins. To refit the panels, position them correctly then screw in the fixing pins
(Figure 1).
(MY2003) In order to check and top up the fluid level of the brake/clutch hydraulic control, you must
unscrew the cap (Figure 2).

1
Engine lubrication circuit

• To check and top up the engine oil and cooling fluid levels, remove the right-hand panel A from the
engine compartment.

CAUTION
With the engine warm, be very careful when working inside the engine compartment: risk of burns!
Remember that, with the engine warm, the electric fan could start to move: risk of injuries!

2
• The level check must be carried out with the car on the flat and the engine warm and idling. The oil level
must be between the MIN and MAX reference points on the dipstick C
The gap between MIN and MAX corresponds to about 1 litre of oil.

IMPORTANT
Do not top up with oil having characteristics other than those of the oil already used in the engine.

CAUTION
The engine oil used and the oil filter replaced contain substances that are dangerous for the
environment. For replacing the oil and the filters you are advised to contact the Maserati Service
Network, where all the necessary equipment is available to dispose of the used oil and filters in
compliance with the regulations in force and in an environment-friendly manner.

3
• If the level is close to or just under the MIN reference point, add oil through the filler neck which is closed
by plug D until the MAX reference point is reached. The oil level should never exceed the MAX reference
point.

4
Engine coolant circuit

CAUTION
When the engine is very hot, do not remove the cap from the pan: risk of burns!

• The fluid level must be checked with the engine cold and must be between the MIN and MAX reference
points which can be seen on the pan. If the level is low, slowly pour the prescribed fluid through the filler
neck on the pan until the level is close to the MAX reference point.

5
• The operation of filling the engine's water circuit is carried out by partially unscrewing the two caps which
let water out from the heads. These are located in the front section of the engine to allow air contained in
the top part of the engine to escape during the filling stage.

A further degassing is carried out via these two caps after the thermostat has been opened (or rather when
the fan starts up), to release any air which may be present in the external engine circuit.

6
Hydraulic steering fluid circuit

IMPORTANT
Make sure that the power steering fluid does not come in touch with the engine hot parts as it is
flammable.

• To get to the pan, remove the left-hand panel from the engine compartment following the instructions in
the "Engine compartment panels" paragraph. With the car on a level ground and the engine cold, check
that the fluid level corresponds with the MAX reference point on the tank cap dipstick. To carry out the
check, unscrew the cap, clean the dipstick, tighten the cap back , remove it again and check the level.

The system is self-draining. The draining is carried out by turning the steering wheel as far as possible to the
left and to the right several times with the engine running and the vehicle stationary. This procedure must be
carried out every time the delivery and return pipes which run to the steering box are disconnected

• Recheck the oil level after draining.

• With the engine running also check for any leakages of oil from the hydraulic steering system.

7
Connection of equipment for operations concerning the air conditioning system refrigerant fluid

There are two fittings on the system pipes, one for high and one for low pressure, which are used for
operations involving the refrigerant, such as:
• refrigerant absorption;
• emptying and drying the system;
• seeking any leaks in the circuit;
• admitting vacuum pump oil;
• charging the system with refrigerant (R134a);

Version Quantity
USA 1100 gr
EUROPA 750 gr

• checking operation of the system.

8
The above operations may be carried out with different types of equipment with different operating
procedures;
for more detailed information, use the technical use and maintenance manual relating to the machinery used.
The high (Figure 1) and low (Figure 2) pressure fittings are shown respectively on the car without and with
the connections to the charging equipment.

9
RADIATORS

Removing/fitting the radiators

• Remove the front bumper and headlamp assemblies.
Removing/fitting the front bumper
• Drain out the system by unscrewing the plug.

• Detach the two sleeves.

1
• Drain the air conditioning system using the special tool connected to the system valve.

• Disconnect the air conditioning system hoses.

2
• Unscrew the four lower screws on the cooling system fan duct.

• Unscrew the lower radiator screws.

3
• Drain the oil from the reservoir by undoing the relative screw.

• Detach the two cooling system fan connectors and the fan speed sensor.

4
• Remove the two clips on each cable bundle.

• Unscrew the upper screws on the fan duct.

5
• Release the clip and detach the radiator water return sleeve.

• Unscrew the air filter fastening screws.

6
• Detach the air filter duct clips and remove it

• Unscrew the oil draining pipe clip next to the air flow meter.

7
• Unscrew the plenum chamber/throttle connector clip.

• Detach the air flow meter connector.

8
• Release the throttle cabling

• Remove the throttle / air flow meter assembly.

9
N.B.
Suitably plug the plenum chamber "intake".

• Unscrew the upper radiator screws.

10
• Unscrew the upper radiator duct screws and remove it.

• Unscrew its clips and disconnect the return hose for the hydraulic steering cooling circuit .

11
• Unscrew its clip and disconnect the delivery hose for the hydraulic steering cooling circuit.

N.B.
Fit the plugs to the radiator ducts.

12
• Unscrew the lower fan unit screws.

• Remove the fan unit.

13
• Unscrew the screws securing the condenser from the water radiator.

• Unscrew the screw securing the duct to the radiator.

• Remove the radiator.

When refitting, proceed in reverse order

14
OIL FILTER

Working from the underfloor, remove the oil filter using a suitable standard tool (Figure 1 and 2).
AIR FILTER

• Remove the front left-hand wheel.

Replacing the wheels

• Working in the underfloor, undo, starting from the left-hand side of the base, the seven perimetric screws
(Figure 1) and the central screw (Figure 2).
• Remove the front left-hand wheelhouse, undoing the six fastening screws.

• Undo the four screws on the air filter housing cover.

• Working between the base and the front bumper, release the right-hand side of the air filter housing
cover.

• Remove the air filter housing cover, releasing its left-hand side.
• Slide the air filter out of the relative housing.

When refitting proceed in reverse order.

CENTRAL EXHAUST LINE

Removing/refitting the central exhaust line

• Lift the car

• (MY2003) Remove the support cross journal by undoing the four fastening screws.

1
• Working from the underbody, unscrew the four screws and disassemble the front frame (Figure 1).

N.B.
Using a felt-tip pen, mark the relative positions of the two parts of the front frame (Figure 2).

2
• Detach the rear Lambda sensor cables from the clamps and from the restraint on the support.

• Detach the front Lambda sensor cables from the front chassis cross member
• Unscrew the four Lambda sensors from the catalytic converters.
Mark the right-hand or left-hand sensor and the corresponding catalytic converter in order to avoid
reversing their positions during the re-assembly stage.

N.B.
When unscrewing the Lambda sensors, make sure the cables do not get damaged by twisting.

3
• Unscrew the thermocouples.

• Unscrew the four screws connecting the exhaust manifolds to the pre-catalytic converters.

4
• Unscrew the clamp Unscrew the clamp connecting the central exhaust line and the terminals.

• Unscrew the screws securing the central exhaust anti-vibration supports from the gearbox housing.

5
• Position a hydraulic lift under the central silencer
• Disconnect the terminals from the central exhaust line.

• Unscrew the screws securing the catalytic converters.

6
• Remove the exhaust line.

Refit the lid in reverse order.

• (MY2003) Tighten the four fastening screws for the cross journal to a torque of 27,5 Nm.

7
TAILPIPES

Removing the tailpipe

• Place the car on the hoist.

• Remove the rear wheels.
• Working in the wheel compartment, remove the cable of the headlight adjusting device from the wheel
arch liner.

N.B.
The headlight adjusting device is only present on the left-hand side.

1
• Remove the rear wheelhouse, undoing the five fastening screws (Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4).

2
3
• Working in the underbody, loosen the fastening clamp between the exhaust extensions and the tailpipe.

• Loosen the connecting clamp between the exhaust extension and the central silencer.

4
• Unscrew the two vibration damper fastening nuts from the gearbox housing.

• Remove the cross member which fastens the exhaust pipe, undoing the two fastening screws on each
extension.

5
• Remove the exhaust extensions from the tailpipe and from the connection with the central silencer.

6
• Working between the heat-shield and the tailpipe, undo the two screws fastening the vibration damper to
the car body (Figures 1 and 2).

7
• Working in the wheel compartment, undo the two screws fastening the vibration damper to the car body
(Figures 1 and 2).

8
Re-attaching the tailpipe

N.B.
Grease the tailpipe and the exhaust extension pipe to make them easier to fit.

9
• Working in the wheel compartment, fix the vibration damper to the car body and tighten the two fastening
screws (Figures 1 and 2).

10
• Secure the other vibration damper by tightening the two fastening screws to the car body (Figures 1 and
2).

11
• Connect the exhaust extension ahead of the central silencer and after the tailpipe.

• Place a soft cloth over the exhaust tailpipes to avoid damaging the bumper while centring the tailpipe.

12
• Refit the cross-member between the exhaust pipes, tightening the two fastening screws on each of the
extensions.

• Using the specific tool, centre the tailpipes with respect to the bumper's seatings.
• Working in the underbody, refit the vibration damper onto the gearbox housing and tighten the two
fastening nuts.

13
• Tighten the clamp which fastens the exhaust extension to the tailpipe.

• Tighten the clamp which fastens the exhaust extension to the central silencer.

14
• Refit the rear wheelhouse, tightening the five fastening screws (Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4).

15
16
• Fix the cable of the headlight adjusting device to the wheel arch liner.

N.B.
The headlight adjusting device is only present on the left-hand side of the car

17
ENGINE REMOVING

• Position the engine, without the clutch, onto the support stand AV2023 , fixing it with the support tool
900026310.

• Detach the injector connections.

1
• Remove the corrugated tubes from the wire guides.

• Take the vacuum intakes off the intake manifolds

2
• Detach the oil draining pipes from the heads and remove the connecting pipes.

• Disconnect the wiring from the motor driven throttle.

3
• Unfasten the bolts on the intake manifold.

• Remove the intake manifold by lifting it upwards.

4
• Remove the gaskets on the intake ducts.

• Fit the tools AV3332, securing them with two nuts to avoid allowing foreign bodies to enter the
cylinders.

5
• Remove the wiring covers.

• Detach the ignition coil connectors, check that all wires are identified in order to position them correctly
during the reassembly stage.

6
• After having detached the solenoid valve connection in the timing variator, move the coil wiring and the
injector wiring.

• Remove the retaining clamps, detach the connection on the water temperature sensors and move the
wiring on the clutch side.

7
• Remove the battery-generator wire.

• Disconnect the wiring on the air conditioning system compressor.

8
• Detach the connections on the alternator and remove the wiring.

• Detach the connections on the detonation sensors, the timing sensors and the revolution sensor on
the supporting bracket.

CAUTION
Check that the sensors on each wire correspond, consulting the electric system manual if
necessary.

9
• Unscrew the injection wiring's seven retaining clamps.

• Remove the engine wiring's earth connection.

10
• Take away the engine wiring.

• Remove the engine mounting bracket, using the tool 900027160.

11
• Remove the starter motor.

• Loosen the poliV belt by turning the tensioner and, holding the tensioner back, slide the belt off the
pulleys and remove it.

12
• Undo the screws fastening the air conditioning system compressor and then remove it.

• Remove the 6 mm screw from the hydraulic steering pump using the holes on the pulley.

13
• Unfasten the two 8 mm screws and remove the pump.

• Open the clamps on the heads' water outputs and remove the entire connecting pipe.

14
• Take the bearing out of the clutch shaft support using the extracting tool 95972714.

• Fit the tool 900026560 for locking the crankshaft.

15
• Remove the torsion damper Once the fastening screw has been removed, the damper can be taken
out by hand.

• Remove the tool 900026560 for locking the crankshaft.

16
• Remove the belt tensioner, undoing the 8mm fastening screw.

• Remove the fixing bracket for the pipe which runs from the exchanger to the oil tank.

17
• Remove the pipe running from the exchanger to the oil tank, unscrewing the 36 mm nut.

• Undo the two screws fastening the alternator and remove it by moving it upwards.

18
• Remove the ignition coils by unfastening the two retaining screws.

• Extract the retaining seeger ring from the timing variator's wire guide.

19
• Place the connectors for the timing (rh and lh), revolution (rh) and detonation (four) sensors into their
housings on the support bracket.

CAUTION
Check that the sensors on each wire correspond, consulting the electric system manual if
necessary.

N.B.
If necessary, remove the timing sensors (Figure 2).

20
21
• To remove the tappet covers, the stud bolt supporting the wiring and the fourteen perimetral socket
head screws must be unfastened.

• Lift the cover, taking care to slide out the solenoid valve wire on the timing variator.

22
• Remove the two fastening screws from the left-hand bank belt tensioner.

• Remove the screws from the cover.

23
• Using a screwdriver, separate the front cover from the engine.

N.B.
Keep the gasket located between the upper edge of the housing and the left-hand belt tensioner.

24
• Keep the upper gasket and remove the cover (Figure 1).

N.B.
The lower gasket remains attached to the cover: remember to keep it for future assembly (Figure
2).

25
• Remove the mechanical tensioner from the oil-water pump chain.

• Remove the fixed shoe.

26
• Undo the screws on the pump's toothed control wheel and remove it along with the chain.

• Undo the screws which fix the oil-water pump to the crankcase.

27
• Move the oil-water pump backwards by hitting it lightly with a rubber hammer, and then remove it.

• After removing the pump, check through the three inspection holes that there are no leakages or spills.

28
• Remove the tensioners from the timing chains (Figure 1 and 2).

29
• Remove the upper fixed shoes.

• Remove the timing system's movable shoes.

30
• Remove the exhaust camshaft screw, countering the rotation with a wrench inserted into the special
hexagon machined on the shaft.

31
N.B.
If it is necessary to keep the same timing, mark the toothed wheels and the chains(Figure 1 and 2)
at the correct point.

32
• Proceed with removing the chains, sliding the toothed wheels off the exhaust camshafts (Figure 1).

N.B.
Keep the centring dowel (Figure 2).

33
• Remove the timing chain's fixed shoes.

• Remove the tranmission axle's mechanical tensioner and the fixed shoe.

34
• Take the seeger ring and the relative shim off the transmission axle.

• Slide out the toothed wheels, paying attention to the roller cages on the transmission axle.

35
• Remove the transmission axle, paying attention to the grommet.

• Remove the union pipes leading from the oil accumulator to the heads.

36
• Unfasten the retaining nuts on the camshaft caps.

• Remove the oil filter.

37
• Remove the screws which fasten the timing variator oil pump onto the left-hand bank intake camshaft.
• Remove the caps checking that the reference number is stamped on them.

• Remove the exhaust camshaft and then the intake camshaft.

N.B.
In this last stage, be sure to recover the timing variator tabs.

38
• If necessary, remove the continuous timing variator using tool 900027020, provided for this purpose.

• Using a magnet, take the valve buckets out of their seats, checking their reference numbers.

39
• Unscrew the ten head fastening nuts.

• Remove the heads using a rubber hammer if necessary.

40
• Remove the head gaskets.

• Unscrew the RPM sensor.

41
• Proceed with the removal of the sub-crankcase by unfastening the perimetral screws.

• Unfasten the nuts on the sub-crankcase stud bolts.

42
• Move the sub-crankcase away by hitting it lightly with a hammer and then remove it completely.

• Remove the crankshaft oil seal.

43
• Fit the tool AM105786 onto the crankshaft and rotate the shaft in order to gain access the connecting
rod bolts easily.

• Loosen the connecting rod caps and move them away by hitting them lightly with a hammer. Remove
the bolts by hand and take off the caps.

44
• Remove the crankshaft and the bearings (Figure 1) taking care not to drop the crankshaft's central
support shimmings (Figure 2).

45
• Remove the pistons.

• Remove the oil nozzles underneath the pistons.

46
• Remove the cylinder liners using the tool 900026610.

• Remove the oil pressure sensor, the revolution sensor.

47
• Unscrew the four anti-detonation sensors.

• Remove the oil accumulator for the variators.

48
• Remove the heat exchanger.

49
FITTING AND TIMING THE ENGINE

In order to install the cylinder liners, the crankcase must be heated up in an oven. The crankcase must be
completely bare.
The chokes for the pressurised oil delivered to the heads
have different diameters and are fitted on both cylinder banks. Each choke is fitted on a check valve.
Upon each
overhaul, it is essential to check that this valve is clean and that it works properly. The crankcase is
removed using an extracting tool, while for reassembly it is interference fitted.

Using tool AV3605 (not illustrated) loosely fit the choking dowels.

N.B.
During the reassembly stage, check that the oil choking dowels on the heads are installed
correctly: the dowel with a 5.5mm internal diameter is found on the left-hand bank (Fig. 1), while
that with a 3mm internal diameter is found on the right-hand bank (Fig. 2).

1
2
• After checking the dimensions of the cylinder liners and the respective seats in the upper crankcase,
check that the cylinder liner resting surfaces are perfectly clean, then measure the liner protrusion with
respect to the crankcase as follows:
• Fit the cylinder liner to be installed turned upside down on the crankcase.
• Using the specific tool equipped with dial gauge with DTI plunger CS0102916measure the protrusion
of the cylinder liner from the crankcase, checking that it falls within the 0.001÷0.05 mm value range.
• If necessary, try the various liners in the various seats so as to obtain the correct coupling.
• It is important that the protrusion is uniform for all the cylinder liners on each bank.
• After coupling the various cylinder liners to the respective seats, number them in order to prevent a
coupling error during assembly.

3
• Heat the bare crankcase in an oven for about 60 minutes to a temperature of 40-50°C, and cool down
the cylinder liners to a temperature of -15 to -20°C putting them in a freezer or liquid nitrogen.
• When the specified temperatures for the crankcase and the cylinder liners have been reached, fix the
crankcase on the support tool and proceed with installation as follows.
• Position the O-rings on the cylinder liners and lubricate them with engine oil.

4
• Insert the cylinder liners in the crankcase, carefully respecting the coupling order established when
checking the protrusion, and take care that the two adjoining faces of the upper edge, between the
various cylinder liners, do not interfere with each other.
• To fully bed in the cylinder liner, evenly tap on its perimeter with a rubber hammer.
• The cylinder liners must be fitted within two minutes from taking the crankcase out of the oven.
• Check once again that the total cylinder liner protrusion for each cylinder bank is between 0.01 and
0.05 mm.

5
• If the cylinder liners are not replaced, but the same ones are reinstalled in their seats, always check
the protrusion of the coupling edge with respect to the crankcase, in order to make sure that there are
no faults.
• Make sure that there is no interference between the adjoining faces of the upper edge.

6
• When installing the water/oil heat exchanger, it is advisable to visually inspect the conditions of the
radiator core. Thoroughly clean the part to assure maximum heat dissipation in operating conditions.
• To check that there is no leakage or spillage, before installing the heat exchanger, perform a pressure
test by immersing it in a container of water, plugging one of the two inlets and blasting in air from the
other inlet.

7
• If the centring dowels (1) for the Ø 6 heat exchanger on the crankcase are damaged or have been
removed, you must use tool 900026300 together with tool 900027010.

• Position the heat exchanger.

8
• Always replace the adhesive gasket of the heat exchanger.

• Properly fit the gasket on the heat exchanger.

9
• Install the sealing gasket (1) between the heat exchanger and the crankcase and position the heat
exchanger.

• Fit the accumulator mount.

10
• Fit the air bleeding union for the water cooling circuit and tighten it to a torque of 15Nm.

• Fit the accumulator mount and tighten it with the exchanger to a torque of 10 Nm.

11
• Fit the four anti-detonation sensors and tighten them to a torque of 20 Nm.

• Fit the rpm sensor and tighten it to a torque of 8 Nm.

12
• Fit the oil accumulator for the variators.

• Fit the oil pressure sensor taking care not to damage the rpm sensor cable and tighten it to a torque of
40 Nm.

13
• After having applied a thin layer of Loctite 242 on the oil nozzles, install and tighten them to a torque of
3 Nm.

• Position the piston sealing segments in the direction shown in Figure (A) with the openings of the first
(1) and the second (2) sealing segment at 180° between them, as shown in Figure (B).

14
• (1) = Upper sealing segment opening
• (2) = Central sealing segment opening

There is no specific fitting direction for the oil scraper ring, nonetheless, take care at the
joint of the internal clip: do not position it near the opening of the
upper and lower rings.

15
• Mount the connecting rod on the piston, taking care that the mark on the lower part of the connecting
rod is positioned on the piston exhaust side.

IMPORTANT
After every removal, replace the pin stop rings. The connecting rod caps match the respective
connecting rods. An identification number is printed on both the connecting rod and the
connecting rod cap.

• Lubricate the piston skirt and the cylinder liner with engine oil.

16
• Fit the half-bearings into their seats on the connecting rod and the cap.

CRANKPIN CRANKPIN
UNIT OF MEASURE mm CONNECTING ROD CONNECTING ROD
SEAT SEAT
47.129 – 47.135 47.136 – 47.142
SEAT YIELD= 0.008
CLASS X CLASS Y

CRANKSHAFT 43.630 – 43.637 YELLOW 1.727 – 1.732 GREEN 1.732 – 1.737

CRANKPIN CLASS X YELLOW 1.727 – 1.732 GREEN 1.732 – 1.737

CRANKSHAFT 43.621 – 43.629 GREEN 1.732 – 1.737 BROWN 1.737 – 1.742

CRANKPIN CLASS X GREEN 1.732 – 1.737 BROWN 1.737 – 1.742

THE CLEARANCES ARE CALCULATED AT A REFERENCE TEMPERATURE OF 20°C

17
• Insert the piston into the dummy cylinder liner, so that the lower part of the skirt comes out slightly
(Figure 1).
• Loosely fit the piston on the cylinder liner, taking care to observe the correct direction, then push it
firmly in.
IMPORTANT
When fitting the piston, take care that the piston offset is set as in Figures 2, 3 and 4.

18
19
• Position all the pistons at the top dead centre before proceeding with the installation of the crankshaft,
so as to avoid interference.

• Fit the bearings on the crankcase lubricating them with oil.

20
• Choose the main bearings according to the instructions on the table.

MAIN BEARING MAIN BEARING

UNIT OF MEASURE mm JOURNALS JOURNALS
CRANKCASE SEAT CRANKCASE SEAT
66.675 – 66.681 66.682 – 66.688
SEAT YIELD= 0.035
CLASS A CLASS B

CRANKSHAFT 58.994 – 59.000 BLUE 3.843 – 3.848 GREEN 3.848 – 3.853

MAIN BEARING CLASS A BLUE 3.843 – 3.848 GREEN 3.848 – 3.853
JOURNALS

CRANKSHAFT 43.621 – 43.629 YELLOW 3.848 – 3.853 GREEN 3.853 – 3.858

MAIN BEARING CLASS X YELLOW 3.848 – 3.853 GREEN 3.853 – 3.858
JOURNALS

THE CLEARANCES ARE CALCULATED AT A REFERENCE TEMPERATURE OF 20°C

• Abundantly lubricate the half-bearings.

21
• Fit the crankshaft on its mounts.

• After having thoroughly lubricated the components, fit the connecting rod caps.

N.B.
• Be sure that the two marks on the connecting rod and the connecting rod big end are on the same
side during the assembly procedure.

22
• Apply Molykote 1000 grease on the connecting rod tightening screws.

• After having closed them by hand first, tighten all the screws to a torque of 15 Nm, then use a 60°
tightening angle so as to obtain a torque of 55±10 Nm.

23
N.B.
If the required torque is not attained after having applied the tightening angle, the entire
procedure must be repeated.

IMPORTANT
Every time the connecting rod screws are tightened, use a new set of screws.

• Fit the shims for the lower central crankshaft mount, being careful with the installation direction: the
side with the two lubrication grooves must face the crankshaft shoulder. These shim rings help
defining the axial play of the crankshaft. Different shims are available (standard, 1st allowance, 2nd
allowance) depending on the type of coupling to be achieved.

• A – Upper crankcase shim

• B – Lower crankcase shim

24
• Insert the upper central mounting shims, following the correct installation direction by turning the
rounded part facing outwards.

• Use the special tool (thickness 20-30) to check that the axial play of the connecting rods falls within
the values 0.20-0.25 mm.

25
• Put the silicon sealing compound Loctite 518 along the perimeter of the engine crankcase.

26
• Prepare the lower part of the engine crankcase by fitting the bearings and the lower central mounting
shims, respecting the fitting direction, i.e. with the rounded part facing outwards.

• Fit the lower part of the crankcase on the engine crankcase.

27
• Lubricate the tie-rods and the relative washers with Molycote 1000 grease, then loosely fit the nuts
onto the stud bolts, checking that the stamped part is facing outwards.

• Tighten the nuts to a pre-load of 30Nm for the inner nuts and 25 Nm for the outer ones.
Finally, tighten the internal ones to a torque of 60 Nm and the external ones to a torque of 55 Nm.
During the procedure check that the shaft turns freely.

28
• Observe the tightening sequence.

• Fit the 6mm screws onto the crankcase perimeter and the small hexagonal fastening nuts for the 2
stud bolts on the clutch side, tightening them to the a torque of 10 Nm.

29
• Insert the oil seal for the crankshaft into its seat on the clutch side, using the specific tool.

• Fit tool AM105786 for crankshaft rotation and check the shaft end float using a dial gauge.
The value must fall between 0.08and 0.18 mm
After completing the check, it is recommended to position piston number 1 at the top dead centre.

30
• If the head centring bushings have been damaged or removed, you must refit them using punch
900026300 equipped with tool 900027000.

• Position the head gaskets, making sure that they are intact.

31
• It is advisable to apply a small amount of silicone CAF4 on the ends of the head gaskets, on the timing
side.

N.B.
Before fitting the engine head, turn the crankshaft in such a way that all the pistons are positioned
below the TDC. To do this, you must rotate the crankshaft until the tab on the crankshaft (timing
side) is positioned as shown in the figure.

32
• Grease the threading of the crankcase stud bolts and the resting surfaces of the head fastening nuts.

• Grease the stud bolts with MOLYCOTE 1000.

33
• Position the heads.

• Loosely fit the nuts with the relative washers, suitably greased with MOLYCOTE 1000.

34
• Apply a pre-load equal to 60Nm.

• Turn a further 90° so as to obtain a torque of 80±10 Nm; if the desired torque is not obtained, the
operation must be repeated.

35
• Observe the tightening sequence.

• Position the valve buckets.

36
• Lubricate the camshaft mounts on the head.
• Make sure that the grommets are duly fit on the seat of the oil pump timing variators.

37
• Position the intake camshaft on the head, fitting the timing variator tab and positioning the oil pump
timing variators in their seats.

• Position the exhaust camshaft and proceed with fitting the camshaft caps tightening them to a torque
of 9 Nm (the two nuts and the Allen screw of the first cap must be tightened to a torque of 10 Nm).

38
• Position the protection filter (if it was removed) for the variator pressure control valve using tool
900026990. Carry out this operation on both engine heads.

• Position the two 7Øx1.78 O-rings for the timing variator bushing. Perform this operation on both
engine heads

39
• Fasten the oil pump timing variators tightening the four Allen screws on the left-hand head and on the
relative cap.

• Fit the timing variator solenoid valve, lubricate the mount and tighten the retaining screw to a torque of
10 Nm.

40
• Fit the grommet for the timing control transmission mount into its seat.

• Fit the timing control transmission mount, tightening the fastening screws with Loctite 242 to a torque
of 6 Nm.

41
• If the pump assembly shaft bearing has been removed, refit it following the procedure described.
• Position the bearing centring template 900027040.

• Place the Ø 25-47x12 ball bearing on the fitting punch.

42
• Insert the punch into the template and bed in the bearing by tapping it with a plastic hammer.
• Subsequently check that the bearing has been fitted correctly.

• Fit the water/oil pump drive shaft in its seat.

43
• Using tool 900027030, fit the pump drive shaft into place.

• Check the condition of the oil-water pump verifying that there is no leakage from the draining holes.

44
• Check the wear condition of the groove on the oil/water pump shaft.

45
• Fit the balancing ring (1) and relevant Seeger ring (2) on the drive shaft (pump side).
• Fit the O-ring (3) (Figures 1 and 2) in the drive shaft seat.

46
• Arrange tool 900027050 on the pump drive shaft to fit the oil seal.

• Fit the oil seal.

47
• Use the special punch to fit the grommet in its seat. Subsequently fit the balancing ring and the see
ger ring which retains the bearing on the timing side.

• Subsequently fit the balancing ring and the see ger ring which retains the bearing on the timing side.

48
• Lubricate the driving joint seat with Molykote 1000 grease.

49
N.B.
Always replace the pump OR.
• Lubricate the pump drive shaft with Molycote 1000 grease.
• Arrange the three O-Ring protection plates of tool AV3602.
• Fit the oil-water pump into its seat by inserting the shaft into the joint.
• Check that there are no signs of peeling of the O-rings in the area where the pumps join the
crankcase. Fit the four M8 small headed screws to secure the assembly to the crankcase, the two M8
screws to secure the pumps to the lower part of the crankcase, and the three M8 screws to secure the
pump to the crankcase, and at the same time remove the three plates AV3602.

50
• Tighten the pump fastening screws to a torque of 25 Nm.

• To fit the screws housed in the upper part of the pump assembly, use tool
900027150.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten to a torque of 25 Nm.

51
IMPORTANT:
The tightening torques for the chain runners are 10 Nm for the 6mm screws and 25 Nm for the
8mm screws.

• Install the mechanical tensioner for the transmission axle.

52
• Fit the transmission chain - toothed wheel unit onto the shaft using tool AV3311.

• Install the fixed runner and fit the shoulder, the balancing ring, the elastic pin and the Seeger ring.

53
• Install the fixed runner for oil-water pump control.

• Position the auxiliary pump chain on the toothed wheel for oil-water pump control and engage it with
the crankshaft toothed wheel.

54
• Fasten the toothed wheel for oil-water pump control onto the oil-water pump driving joint, and tighten
the fastening screws to a torque of 23 Nm.

• Install the pump axle mechanical tensioner, tightening the fastening screws to the prescribed torque.

55
• Fit the elastic pin onto the transmission axle, insert the triple gearing shoulder support and the
balancing ring.
• Fix the assembly with the see ger ring provided.

• Fit the fixed runners and the timing chain tensioners tightening them to the specified torque of 25 Nm.
N.B.
To facilitate subsequent fitting of the camshaft drive chain, it is advisable to keep the two
retaining screws of the RH fixed chain tensioner runner loose.

56
• Position the crankshaft so that the small wrench is at 45°, in order to prevent damaging the valves.

57
• Turn the camshafts of the two cylinder banks in such a way that the references at the ends of the
shafts match the marks on the respective fixing caps. Lock the camshaft rotation.
• Having previously positioned all the pistons below the TDC, there is no risk of interference between
the valves and the pistons during operation of the timing camshafts.
•
N.B.
Depending on the version, the camshafts may be differently machined so as to allow rotation
during timing. The part number identifying the spare part is the same, but there may be a hexagon
on the camshaft for positioning a fixed wrench, or an opening machined to host a wrench, or a
hole to position a cylindrical punch.

IMPORTANT
At this point in the assembly procedure, the engine timing must be checked or restored.

• Move the camshafts to align the reference marks on the heads with those on the shafts themselves
(Figures 1, 2 and 3).

58
59
• Fit the centesimal dial gauge with its holderCS104488, screwing it into the spark plug hole of the first
cylinder.
• Position the goniometer and turn the crankshaft until reaching the TDC

• Position the camshaft drive chain on the right-hand cylinder bank. Position the chain on the innermost
gear of the crankshaft.

60
• When fitting the chain, loosen the screws on the timing variator of the right-hand and left-hand cylinder
bank.
• Position the adjustment slots in the centre of the available adjustment range, so that play can be
recovered during timing adjustment. Tighten at least two retaining screws on the variator.
• After positioning the timing chain on the engine, tighten the two retaining screws of the right-hand fixed
chain tensioning runner to a torque of 25 Nm using a torque wrench.

61
• Fit the gearwheel for the exhaust camshaft. Position the centring dowel into the first free hole
available, after coupling the gearwheel onto the camshaft.

• Check that the pointer of the dial gauge fitted on the holder CS104488 always indicates the TDC
position.

62
• Fit the hydraulic chain tensioner and use a torque wrench to tighten to a torque of 70 Nm.

63
• Repeat the operation for the left-hand cylinder bank.
• When the assembly procedures have been completed, check the TDC position with the dial gauge.

• Screw down by hand, without tightening, the two retaining screws for the exhaust camshaft
gearwheels.

64
• Position the hydraulic chain tensioner together with the gasket on the left-hand cylinder bank using
two screws with washers.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the two screws to a torque of 10 Nm.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the tensioner screw to a torque of 40 Nm

• Release the camshafts.

• Turn the engine anticlockwise and check that there is no interference.

65
ADJUSTING THE INTAKE SHAFT TIMING

• Turn the engine anticlockwise and position the first piston at the TDC. Make sure that the dial gauge is
on zero.
• Place a support for the magnetic base of the dial gauge holder on the right-hand engine head.
• position a magnetic base with a long-rod centesimal dial gauge.
• Turn the engine clockwise positioning the intake cam immediately before the opening ramp. In this
condition, the hydraulic tappet is still in the rest position.
• Position the dial gauge plunger above the tappet of an intake valve. The dial gauge rod must be as
perpendicular as possible to the tappet surface.

66
• Reset the dial gauge that measures the movement of the intake tappet.
• Go back to the TDC position and check the dial gauge previously reset. In this position (TDC), the
intake valves of the first cylinder have already started their travel. Therefore, carefully check the
position on the dial gauge positioned on the tappet.
• Turn the crankshaft 15° beyond the TDC. This corresponds to a piston stroke of 1.75 mm beyond the
TDC.
• Check that the tappet downstroke (begun before the TDC) and hence the intake valve upstroke is
0.59±0.08 mm.
• Should the values measured in these conditions be out of tolerance, hold the crankshaft still, loosen
the screws on the timing variator and turn the intake camshaft until obtaining the desired intake valve
upstroke. For this reason, as described earlier, it is advisable to get ready for the timing procedure by
positioning the variator adjustment slots in the centre of the angular adjustment.
• Check the timing again.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the previously loosened screws that secure the variator to a torque of
15 Nm, after applying Loctite 242.

Intake data summary.

Beginning before TDC 15°± 1

End after TDC 66°± 1

67
ADJUSTING THE EXHAUST SHAFT TIMING

• Turn the engine clockwise and position the first piston at the TDC with the camshafts balanced
(exhaust closed and intake open). Make sure that the dial gauge is on zero.
• Position the dial gauge plunger on the tappet of an exhaust valve. The dial gauge rod must be as
perpendicular as possible to the tappet surface.
• Reset the dial gauge that measures the movement of the exhaust tappet.
• Turn the crankshaft clockwise until an exhaust valve is closed.
• Check that the closing stroke of the exhaust valve is 1.09±0.08 mm

68
• Should the values measured in these conditions be out of tolerance, hold the crankshaft still, move the
centring dowel anticlockwise or clockwise (depending on whether you wish to delay or advance the
shaft) until obtaining the desired timing value.
• Fit the retaining dowel (1) in the hole immediately after or before the centring dowel, whatever is
easier.

Exhaust data summary.

Beginning before BDC 41°± 1

End 0°± 1

69
• To complete the operation, fix the exhaust camshaft gearwheel.

N.B.
Use engine oil to lubricate the thread and underhead of the retaining screw on the exhaust
camshaft and the toothed ring gear.
• Tighten the retaining nut with sealing washer to a torque of 200 Nm.
• During the procedure, lock the camshaft by working on the handling hexagon in such a way as not to
load the timing belt.
•
• Perform the same procedure for the left-hand cylinder bank, positioning the dial gauge holder in the
seat of the spark plug of cylinder number 8.

N.B.
After adjusting the timing, it is advisable to perform an OIL PRESSURE TEST, introducing
pressurised engine oil through the oil filter union at a pressure of 5-6 bar. In this way, you can
check the lubrication of the camshaft seats, hydraulic chain tensioners, tappets and central
transmission pin.

70
• Fit the upper runner and tighten the retaining screws to a torque of 10 Nm

• With the aid of short stud bolts, position the gaskets on the crankcase.

71
• Lubricate the seats of the cooling circuit grommets.

• Fit tool 900026590 onto the crankshaft, in such a way that the oil seal will not be damaged when the
cover is installed.

72
• Install the front crankcase cover.

• Replace the stud bolts together with the fastening screws.

73
• Tighten the front cover screws to a torque of 10 Nm.

• Fit the belt tensioner paying particular attention to the position of the reference pin, and tighten to a
torque of 25Nm.

74
• Fit tool 900026560 to lock the crankshaft rotation.

• Position the torsion damper on the shaft and tighten the fastening screw with Loctite 242 to a torque of
450 Nm.

75
• Fit the hydraulic steering pump, tightening the front screw to a torque of 10 Nm (Figure 1) and the rear
screw to a torque of 25 Nm (Figure 2).

76
• Secure the air-conditioning system compressor by tightening the screws to a torque of 25 Nm.

• Insert the bushings to fasten the alternator onto the crankcase.

77
• Fit the alternator by tightening screw A to a torque of 49Nm and screw B to a torque of 59 Nm.

• Turn the movable tensioner and fit the multifunctional belt.

78
• Fit the engine mounting brackets using tool 900027160, and tighten the fastening screws to a torque
of 53 Nm.

• Install the starter motor, tightening the fastening screws to a torque of 14 Nm.

79
• Fit the spark plugs after having lubricated the threading with Champion 2612 grease.

• Fit the tappets' cover remembering to arrange the head gaskets and the spark plug tube gaskets
beforehand. Insert the timing variator connector through the specific hole.

80
• Working from the middle outwards, tighten the closing screws to a torque of 10 Nm.

• Fit the Seeger ring for the cable guide of the timing variator valve using tool AV3333.

81
• Fit the ignition coils (Figure 1) and tighten the retaining screws to a torque of 10 Nm (Figure 2 ).

82
• Working from their housings on the support bracket, take out the connectors of the timing sensors (RH
and LH), the rpm sensor (RH) and the detonation sensors (four).

CAUTION
Check that the sensors on each wire match, consulting the electric system manual if necessary.

83
• Install the tubes which run from the accumulators to the timing variator solenoid valves.

• Fit the tube which runs from the exchanger to the tank. Fit the fastening nut onto the exchanger and
secure the retaining bracket.

84
• Complete the procedure by tightening the nut on the exchanger to a torque of 75 Nm.

• Secure the service wire onto the alternator and tighten it to a torque of 10 Nm.

85
• Using a clamp, secure the injection cable onto the right-hand head.

• Using a clamp, secure the wiring leading to the head coils and the wiring leading to the injectors and
the fuse box.

86
• Fit the connector onto the alternator.

• Secure the earth terminal onto the crankcase, tightening the fastening screw to a torque of 25 Nm.

87
• Attach the connectors to the wiring support bracket.

• Connect the oil pressure sensor.

88
• Secure the wire which leads to the A/C compressor and to the starter motor.

• Remove the tools AV3332 protecting the intake ducts and position the gasket on the manifolds.

89
• Position the intake manifold, centring it on the duct's stud bolts.

• Tighten the bolts to a torque of 10 Nm.

90
• Using clamps, fix the oil vapour breather lines and head water outlet lines.

• Attach the connector onto the timing variator solenoid valve. Then attach the injector wiring and the
motor driven throttle connector.

91
• Connect the ignition coil wiring harness.

• Fit the wiring covers, securing the screws with Loctite 242 to a torque of 8 Nm.

92
• Using tool 900026550, insert the clutch shaft support bearing.

IMPORTANT
Once the engine assembly procedure is complete, check that the wiring is correctly positioned,
consulting the electric system manual if necessary.

93
94
DIMENSIONAL CHECKS

Checking the camshaft dimensions

• Check that the main bearing journals and the cams do not show scoring or excessive wear.

• Measure the main bearing journals with the micrometer.

1
• The dimensions measured must fall within the indicated values (Figure 1 e 2)..

2
N.B.
To check the coaxial factor of the main bearing journals, a checking plane is required.
• Place the camshaft on the indicated tool. AV3135.
• Reset the dial gauge on the main bearing journal to be examined and rotate the shaft checking the dial
gauge indication.
• The coaxial factor error detected must be lower than the prescribed value.

• Repeat the operation for the marked journals.

3
Piston dimensional check

• Carry out a careful visual check of the skirt checking that there is no scoring or excessive wear.

• Measure the piston diameter taking three measurements at the reference heights.

4
• The dimensions detected must fall within the indicated values.
• In addition, check the pin seat diameter, which must be 20+0.011+0.005 mm, and the pin outer diameter,
which must be 20 – 0.005 mm.

5
IMPORTANT
The pin hole is NOT symmetrical with the piston axis.
The reason for this offset is the need to limit the lateral forces that are perpendicular to the cylinder
liner. The offset follows the rotation direction of the crankshaft and, for this reason, the RH bank
pistons are different from those on the LH cylinder bank.

• After removing the grommets from the piston, carefully inspect them. In the event of scoring, cracks or
signs of abnormal wear, they must be replaced.

IMPORTANT
There is no specific fitting direction for the oil scraper ring, nonetheless, take care at the joint of the
internal clip: do not position it on the upper and lower ring opening.

6
Connecting rods dimensional check

N.B.
All checks of the connecting rods must be carried out with used screws.

• To measure the diameter of the connecting rod big end, reset the bore-meter on tool ALZ F04702.

• Using a torque wrench, tighten the fastenings on the connecting rod big end to torque.
• Check the diameter of the connecting rod big end taking two measurements at a distance of 90°.

7
• The dimensions detected must fall within the indicated values.

• To measure the diameter of the connecting rod small end, reset the bore meter on the indicated tool
(diameter 20 mm).

8
• Check the diameter of the connecting rod small end taking two measurements at a distance of 90°.

• Proceed with a second inspection of the connecting rod small end using the "go-no-go" gauge
TLDF02060

9
• The dimensions detected must fall within the indicated values.

10
N.B.
To balance the connecting rod a checking plane is required.
• The parallelism of the connecting rod axes is checked by means of tool AV2955.
Insert the pins supplied into the connecting rod small end and the connecting rod big end, then check for
any parallelism error with the dial gauge.

• Rotate the connecting rod by 90° and repeat the procedure.

11
• The values measured must correspond to those indicated in the drawing.

12
Cylinder liner dimensional check

N.B.
To carry out the dimensional check of the cylinder liners a bore-meter and the relative reference ring
are required.

• Reset the bore-meter on the prescribed tool.

• Measure the diameter of the cylinder liner taking three measurements at the reference heights, then
rotate the liber by 90° and repeat the procedure.

13
• The dimensions measured must fall within the indicated values.

14
Drive shaft dimensional check

• Check that the main bearing journals do not show scoring or excessive wear.

• Check the condition of the rear plug on the clutch side.

15
• Using a tube-brush, check that the oil passages are not clogged.

• Measure the main bearing journals using a micrometer.

16
• The dimensions detected must fall within the indicated values.

• Measure the crankpins with the micrometer.

17
• The dimensions detected must fall within the indicated values.

N.B.
To check the coaxial factor of the main bearing journals a checking plane is required.

• Arrange the crankshaft on the specified tool AV3135.

18
• Reset the dial gauge on the main bearing journal to be checked and rotate the shaft checking the dial
gauge indication (Figura 1 e 2).

19
• The coaxial factor error detected must be lower than the indicated value.

• Repeat the operation for the marked main bearing journals.

20
Main cylinder head data

Interference between the valve guide and the housing on the head 0.032 ÷ 0.068 mm

Interference between the valve seat and the housing on the head
• Intake. 0,080 ÷ 0,140 mm
• Draining 0,080 ÷ 0,140 mm

Coupling between the valve rod and the relative guide

• Fitting clearance (intake ) 0,030 ÷ 0,060 mm
• Fitting clearance (draining) 0,035 ÷ 0,065 mm
• Wear limit 0.100 mm T.B.D.

Max. shift between valve stem and contact surface with bucket
• Intake and draining 0.025 mm

Clearance between bucket and relative seat

• Fitting clearance 0,025 ÷ 0,057 mm
• Wear limit 0,100 mm

21
Checking the cylinder heads

N.B.
To ensure the best working conditions, position the cylinder heads on the tool 900026520

22
• Remove the valves, using specific standard pneumatic equipment.

• Clean the heads carefully, removing all traces of scaling from the combustion chambers and the oil and
water lines. For this purpose, it is advisable to inject pressurised petroleum into the oil lines and a
standard descaling liquid into the water lines. Perform these operations with the aid of tool 900026970
(not shown).
• Check the state of the spark plugs' seats.
• Using the bore-meter, check the valve control bucket seats for wear and the camshafts seats.
• On a straightening surface, check if the head and crankcase coupling surfaces are perfectly flat.

23
• If the head surface needs to be corrected, always comply with the value given in the figure.

24
Checking the valve seats and guides

• Following the checks, if replacement of the valve seats is required, they must be removed by milling in
order to prevent damage to the housing on the head.
• Check the dimensions of the grooves and the seats to ensure that the prescribed interference is created
after assembly.
• To insert the new seats, heat the head in a kiln until it reaches a temperature of 190 °C, for six minutes,
then cool down the seats in liquid nitrogen, for about five minutes.

NOTES
The above described operation must be exclusively carried out by a specialized laboratory.

• Insert the seats onto the head using the special punch. Carefully check that the kickback does not cause
the previously installed seats to fall out; if necessary, check that all installed seats are correctly fitted.
• Using gauge TLDF 006108, check the valve guides for wear.

25
• If the gauge inside the guide features an excessive backlash, replace with new guides in order to obtain
the prescribed assembly engagement.
• The guides can be removed following the below procedure

• Using tool AV 2734 extract the seal rings (1) from the valve guides

26
• Using a Ø 10 mm miller, with a Ø 6 mm tapered shank, supplied with tool AV 2926, mill the guide on the
seal ring side for about 25 mm from its end, lubricating the miller to prevent it from breaking and keeping
it aligned with the valve guide.

• Heat the head in a kiln at about 100 °C, for ca. thirty minutes, to ease removal, then position it on two
rubber shims.
• Extract the guide using the punch supplied with tool AV 2926.

27
• To insert the new guides, it is necessary to heat the head at about 100 °C for ca. 1 hour and then cool
down the guides in liquid nitrogen.
• To install the new guide (2) use tool AS 102178 with shim AV 3537.

• Lubricate the guide with "SEGO" grease and push it into its seat, until the shim AV 3537 comes flush with
the head.

28
• After this procedure, dry bore the guides using a reamer (3) diameter 6 H7 mm, fitted in the speacial
hand-operated spindle. Before carrying out the operation, check that the reamer cutting edges are sharp.

• Using gauge TLDF 006108, directed towards side "P", check that the guide is properly bored.

29
If, once the checks have been carried out, the valve seats need to be replaced, remove them by milling in
order to prevent damaging their seat on the head.
• Check the dimensions of the recesses and seats.
• After fitting, it is absolutely essential to have the indicated interference.
• To fit the new seats, heat the head in the oven to a temperature of 190°C for six minutes, and cool down
the seats in liquid nitrogen for approx. five minutes.

N.B.
The above described operation must be carried out by a specialized laboratory only

After having replaced the valve guides, it is necessary to grind the valve seats, thereby obtaining the
prescribed union angle in order to perfectly match the seat-valve support surfaces. For this operation, use
the recommended grinder for valve seats equipped with the relative
• To work on both sides of the head, position it on the special supports, working from the lid side.
• Insert the centering stem into the guide (4), diameter 6 mm, working from the side equipped with
tightening screw.

30
• Lock the centering stem in the guide (4), by means of the tightening screw (5).

31
• The grinder must be fitted with the specific wheel for the valve seat to be machined:
- for the intake valves use a 37 mm diameter wheel;;
- for the exhaust valves use a 33 mm diameter wheel.

NOTES
The wheel outer diameter must be slightly larger than that of the valve.

• Set the diamond point inclination (6) to 45°, with respect to the fixed index on the base.
• Sharpen the wheel swinging the small connecting rod (A) which holds the diamond point and, at the same
time, operate the control knob (B).
IMPORTANT
To prevent the abrasive product from infiltrating into the camshaft central hole, plug the latter and
clean with compressed air

32
• Grease the centering stem and fit the grinder
• Move the wheel so that it skims the valve seat, and lock the screw which positions the knob (7) used to
adjust the cutting depth..

• Start-up the grinder and machine the valve seat, gradually increasing the cutting depth using the knob (7).
• Grind the whole surface (H) of the valve seat, letting the machine work freely for a few seconds. Check
the working depth and the alignment (centering) of the machining with respect to the seat, adjusting the
grinder position if necessary..

33
• Once the machining procedure is completed, lift the wheel operating the knob then remove it from the
centering stem.
• Release the centering stem, working on the lower tightening screw.
• Using tool (C) supplied with the grinder, extract the centering stem (4) from the valve guide.

IMPORTANT
After having ground the seats as described above, it is not necessary to lap the valves before re-
assembly.

There are two methods for checking the seat machining:

- application of a "Prussian Blue" layer;
- check of the hydraulic seal with "Vacutest".

34
Check through the application of a "Prussian Blue" layer
• Using a paintbrush, apply a thin and uniform layer of "Prussian Blue" on the whole resting surface of the
valve.
• Insert the valve into its guide, making it "strike" on its seat.
• Then rotate it manually and, after having removed it, check that the "Prussian Blue" layer is evenly
distributed on the whole seat. If this is not the case, grind the seat once again.

35
Check of the hydraulic seal with "Vacutest"”
• Fit all the valves for a duct (intake or exhaust) and, in order to avoid that the cotter grooves - on the valve
stem - damage the inside sealing surface of the grommet, fit the protection cap AV 2944 and lubricate the
coupling with engine oil

36
• Fit the sealing rings on the valve guides to be tested using the fitting tool 900026980 (Maserati part no.)
or AV 2692 (Ferrari part no.).

37
• Fit the rectangular punch (D), supplied with the equipment, to plug the intake duct. Fit a round-shaped
punch to plug the exhaust duct
• Activate the "Vacutest" and check on the pressure gauge that vacuum ranges between 0,94 and 0,86
bar. If the value proves to be lower, check once again applying a "Prussian Blue" layer, in order to verify
which is the seat to be ground once again.

38
Fitting the valves and checking the springs
• During servicing, after a careful examination, check the state of the valves (Figure 1 and 2) and, if
necessary, replace them.

39
• Whenever necessary or, in any case, when fitting new valves, replace the grommets, using the punch AV
2692 to insert them.
• To prevent the cotter grooving on the valve stem damaging the inner surface of the grommet, fit the
protective cap AV 2944 and lubricate the coupling with engine oil.

40
• The figures 3 and 4 show the nominal lengths (L) the spring must have depending on the charge (N)
applied.

• Replace the deformed springs with new ones with a static charge of 30 ÷ 50 N
• Examine the upper and lower washers visually to make sure they are intact.
• Refit the components, using the compression tool employed to remove them.

41
• The outer and inner valve springs must be fitted in a specific direction. A mark indicates the correct fitting
direction: the marked end of both springs must be positioned in contact with the engine head.

• Fit the hydraulic tappets, abundantly lubricating the housings on the head and checking them for wear.
The tappets on the head do not need to be positioned following a specific sequence, however, it is
recommended to refit the hydraulic tappets following the same order in which they were removed.

42
ELECTRO-INJECTORS

Electro-injector detaching-reattaching

• Open the engine compartment lid.

• Working from the engine compartment, unscrew the fuel line-electro-injector pipe union.

N.B.
To remedy any possible fuel leakage during operation, it is advisable to position a cloth beneath the
connection between the fuel line and the electro-injector pipe.

1
• Unscrew the two retaining nuts on the electro-injector pipe cover and remove it.

• Disconnect the electro-injector connectors.

2
• Unscrew the retaining nuts on the electro-injector pipe. Extract the electro-injector pipe.

• Extract the locking retainer from the electro-injectors and remove the electro-injectors.

3
When fitting, follow the procedures described above in reverse order.

N.B.
1. Prior to insertion of the electro-injectors in the seat, it is advisable to grease the grommet to
facilitate insertion.
2. Align the reference tabs for correct fitting.

4
BATTERY

Battery disconnection-connection

• Open the luggage compartment, unscrew the seven screws and remove the luggage compartment hinge
cover.

• Remove the spare wheel support.

1
• With the tool, detach the push fittings on the side panel of the luggage compartment and then remove the
panel.

• Unscrew the retaining nut on the battery retaining bracket.

2
• Disconnect the battery by unscrewing the two retaining nuts.

• Disconnect the breathing pipe and remove the battery.

When fitting, follow the procedures described above in reverse order.

3
STARTER MOTOR

Detaching the starter motor.

• Remove the central exhaust line.

Disconnecting-Reconnecting the central exhaust line
• Disconnect the battery cables
Disconnecting-Reconnecting the battery

• Place the car on the hoist.

• Remove the front wheels.
Replacing the wheels

• Working from the engine compartment, remove the side rear and front covering panels, by unscrewing
the twelve fastening screws.

1
• Detach the lid-open indicator connector.

• Detach the tube leading to the secondary air valve.

2
• Remove the clamp on the valve connection pipe.

• Undo the two lower fastening screws on the secondary air valve.

3
• Undo the two screws fastening the secondary air valve support (Figure 1) and slide off the rubber sleeve
(Figure 2) to remove the valve

4
• Remove the diagnosis union found on the secondary air distributor pipe for the exhaust.

• Undo the screw fastening the connector bracket found alongside the air flow meter.

5
• Remove the wiring from the two retaining clamps.

• Loosen the clamp to remove the secondary air delivery pipe.

6
• Loosen the clamp to remove the pipe found under the air flow meter.

• Detach the connector on the air flow meter.

7
• Loosen the clamp (Figure 1) and release the retaining spring (Figure 2) to remove the air flow meter.

8
• Remove the air flow meter-oil decanter connection pipe from the retaining clamp.

• Unscrew the two nuts fastening the stiff pipe to the engine.

9
• Turn the stiff pipe towards the rear side of the vehicle to facilitate the loosening and removal of the nuts
fastening the exhaust manifolds.

• Working on both sides of the engine, unscrew seven of the eight nuts fastening the manifolds.

N.B.
The last nut fastening the manifolds is positioned towards the passenger compartment and it is
concealed by the manifold itself. It is easier to unscrew it by lifting the vehicle and working from the
underfloor.

10
• Raise the vehicle and unscrew the last nut fastening the exhaust manifolds.

• Unscrew the engine mounting bracket retaining nut from both sides.

11
• Unscrew the blow-by pipe union (Figure 1).

N.B.
Screw on a cap to avoid oil leakages (Figure 2).

12
• Undo the four engine shield fastening screws.

• Position a hydraulic lift between the housing and the engine.

N.B.
Fit a rubber shim between the hydraulic lift and the engine/housing.

13
• Lift the engine just enough to slide out the exhaust manifold from the compressor unit side.

• Working from the manifold side, slide the shield off.

Lower the engine.

14
• Unscrew the nut for the positive wire to disconnect the starter motor.

• Detach the jack.

15
• Undo the two screws fastening the engine (1) and unscrew the nut fastening the wire (2).

N.B.
If replacement of the starter motor is necessary, unscrew the two nuts (3) to remove the bracket from
the motor.

• Unscrew the three fastening screws on the clutch housing.

16
Reattaching the starter motor

• Position the starter motor on the engine and tighten the two screws fastening it to the engine (1) and the
wire retaining nut (2).

N.B.
If replacement of the starter motor is necessary, before fastening the new one on the engine, position
the bracket and tighten the two nuts (3).

• Tighten the three screws fastening the motor to the clutch housing, to the torque of 17 Nm.

17
• Connect the pin.

• Connect the starter motor, tightening the nut on the positive cable.

18
• Lift the engine to a height sufficient to insert the shield and secure it with the four screws.

• Insert the new gaskets on the stud bolts for the exhaust manifolds.

N.B.
The gaskets have a raised side that should face the exhaust pipes when refitting them.

19
• Insert the exhaust manifold from the compressor unit side.

• Position a lever between the engine rubber bushing support and the engine mounting bracket and shift
the engine sideways.
Insert the manifold.

N.B.
This procedure requires the help of another person to insert the manifold.

20
• Insert the manifolds in the housing and tighten the last nut, passenger compartment side.

• Lower the engine, remove the hydraulic lift and tighten the nuts securing the engine.

21
• Tighten the blow-by union.
N.B.
Before fitting the union, remove the cap on the engine.

• Lower the vehicle to work inside the engine compartment.

• Tighten the seven nuts fastening the manifolds, on each side.

22
• Lock the stiff pipe to the engine.

• Fasten the air flow meter-oil decanter connection pipe with the clamp.

23
• Refit the air flow meter by tightening the clamp (Figure 1) and lock the retaining spring (Figure 2).

24
• Attach the connector on the air flow meter.

• Refit the pipe found underneath the air flow meter and tighten the clamp.

25
• Refit the secondary air delivery pipe and tighten the clamp.

• Refit the wiring on the two retaining clamps.

26
• Fasten the connector support bracket found alongside the air flow meter and tighten the screw.

• Tighten the diagnosis union on the secondary air distributor pipe for the exhaust.

27
• Refit and tighten the two lower screws fastening the secondary air valve on the manifolds.

N.B.
Insert the new gaskets between the secondary air valve and the distributor pipe for the exhaust.

• Screw on the two screws fastening the support to the engine and secure the rubber sleeve with the
clamp.

28
• Connect the small pipe to the secondary air valve.

• Attach the lid-open indicator connector.

29
• Refit the side, rear and front coverings and screw the twelve fastening screws.

• Reattach the central exhaust line.

Detaching-reattaching the central exhaust line.

• Fit the wheels.

Replacing the wheels

• Connect the battery wires.

Battery disconnection-reconnection.

30
FUEL TANK

Detaching the fuel tank

CAUTION
1. The fuel contained in the fuel tank and in the entire engine supply system is highly
flammable, and can easily catch fire under certain circumstances.
2. Do not smoke, produce sparks or use naked flames near the work site or in the immediate
vicinity.

N.B.
We recommend that you drain the fuel contained in the fuel tank using the special equipment.

• Remove the Anti-evaporation System components.

Component replacement

• Remove the rear chassis.

Detaching the rear chassis

• Lower the vehicle and remove the four fastening screws on the filler neck.

M1380MO-M0107A-A2.jpg

1
• Working in the soft top compartment, remove the five fastening screws on the right-hand fuel guard cover.

M1380MO-B1239A-A2.jpg

• Detach the fuel delivery pipes and loosen the refuelling pipe clamp.

M1380MO-B1225A-A2.jpg

2
• Loosen the breather pipe clamp.

M1380MO-B1224A-A2.jpg

• Remove the breather pipe, the fuel filler pipe and the earth wire located below the filler neck fastening
tang.

M1380MO-B1231A-A2.jpg

3
• Disconnect the tank connector wiring from the support.

M1380MO-B1242A-A2.jpg

• Remove the thirteen (of fifteen) fastening screws located on the outer edge of the tank heat guard.

M1380MO-B1254A-A2.jpg

4
• Remove the two heat guard strips and undo the two screws in the central part of the tank heat guard.

M1380MO-B1236A-A2.jpg

• Remove the ABS cable fastening screws from either side of the tank support.

M1380MO-B1227A-A2.jpg

5
• After positioning a hydraulic lift with a support of suitable size for supporting the tank, (Figure 1) unscrew
the four screws fastening the four tank mounts to the body (Figure 2).

M1380MO-B1223B-A2.jpg

M1380MO-B1230B-A2.jpg

6
• Use a lever to detach the tank from the body.

M1380MO-B1228A-A2.jpg

• Lower the hydraulic lift supporting the transmission shaft to the lowest point of the shaft downstroke.
Position the hydraulic lift slightly lower than the transmission shaft.

• Lower the hydraulic lift supporting the tank, exerting a slight downwards pressure on the transmission
shaft to slide out the tank.

M1380MO-B1243A-A2.jpg

7
• Use the hydraulic lift to raise the transmission shaft back into its original position.

M1380MO-B1233A-A2.jpg

Reattaching the fuel tank

• Position the sponges on the front and rear of the tank, as shown in the figure.

M1380MO-B1229A-A2.jpg

8
• Position the tank on the hydraulic lift, align it with the housing, lower the hydraulic lift supporting the
transmission shaft until the shaft ends its downstroke. Position the hydraulic lift slightly lower than the
transmission shaft.
• Exert a slight downwards pressure on the transmission shaft to slide the tank into the housing, taking care
not to crush the pipes on the body just above the tank.

M1380MO-B1243A-A2.jpg

• Use the hydraulic lift to bring the shaft back into its original position.

M1380MO-B1233A-A2.jpg

9
• Use the four supports to block the tank in place; tighten the fastening screws to a torque of 50Nm and
remove the hydraulic lift.

M1380MO-B1226A-A2.jpg

• Fasten the ABS cables passing above the tank support onto the body and tighten the fastening screw.

M1380MO-B1227A-A2.jpg

10
• Fasten the tank heat guard with the fifteen screws (Figure 1) , and glue the two strips in the central part
of the guard (Figure 2).

M1380MO-B1254B-A2.jpg

M1380MO-B1236B-A2.jpg

11
• Remount the gearbox oil radiator support on the tank heat guard and tighten the two fastening screws.

M1380MO-B1241A-A2.jpg

• Reattach the rear chassis

Reattaching the rear chassis

• Working inside the soft top bay, connect the tank wiring and fasten it to the support.

M1380MO-B1242A-A2.jpg

12
• Position the earth wire under a filler neck tang.

M1380MO-B1231A-A2.jpg

• Insert the tank supply pipe and tighten the four screws fastening the filler neck to the car body.

M1380MO-M0107A-A2.jpg

13
• Connect the filler neck to the tank and fasten it by screwing on the clamp.

M1380MO-B1240A-A2.jpg

• Connect the breather pipe to the tank and screw on the fastening clamp.

M1380MO-B1224A-A2.jpg

14
• Connect the fuel delivery pipes.

M1380MO-B1225A-A2.jpg

15
• Reposition the cover and screw the five fastening screws.

M1380MO-B1239A-A2.jpg

• Mount the components for the anti-evaporation system

Component replacement

• Bleed the rear brakes

Bleeding the rear brake fluid circuit.

16
MOTOR-DRIVEN PUMP PAN ASSEMBLY

• Open the cover and hold it in position with tool 900026320.

Detaching the left-hand motor-driven pump pan assembly

• Remove the four buttons fastening the rear vertical matting and remove it from the vehicle.

1
• Undo the four screws fastening the rear glove compartment.

• Undo the two fastening screws on the soft top pump cover, then remove the cover.

2
• Unscrew the two bolts securing the rear glove compartment and remove the front panel by pushing it
towards the car's rear side.

• Detach the two emergency soft top opening/closing cable connectors from the rear glove compartment.

3
• Undo the nine screws on the anti-evaporation system cover and remove it.

• Disconnect the roller-over valve connecting pipe and the fluid decanter.

4
• Detach the diagnosis pump connector (USA Version).

• Disconnect the pipe linking the diagnosis pump to the active carbon filter (1).
Undo the four screws fastening the diagnosis pump supporting bracket, the diagnosis pump filter and the
roll-over valve, then remove the block from the vehicle.

5
• Disconnect the motor-driven pump's fuel pipe (1).
Detach the connector (2), disconnecting the safety pin first and then the connector itself.

• Undo the ring nut using the tool 900026390 and remove the motor-driven pump unit from the fuel tank.

6
Detaching the right-hand motor-driven pump pan assembly

• Working from the soft top compartment, undo the five screws fastening the protective cover to the right-
hand fuel pump.

• Disconnect the motor-driven pump's fuel pipe (1).

Detach the connector (2), disconnecting the safety pin first and then the connector itself.

7
• Undo the ring nut using the tool 900026390 and remove the motor-driven pump unit from the fuel tank.

8
Reattaching the right-hand motor-driven pump pan assembly

• Press the fuel pump down and tighten the ring nut.
Using the ring nut wrench 900026390 tighten to a torque of 15 Nm.

• Connect the fuel pipe (1) to the motor-driven pump.

Attach the connector (2) locking it with the respective pin.

9
• Reposition the cover and screw the five fastening screws.

10
Reattaching the left-hand motor-driven pump pan assembly

N.B.
The fuel pump complete with the floater must be positioned on the left-hand fuel tank seat.
• Press the fuel pump down and tighten the ring nut.
Using the ring nut wrench 900026390 tighten to a torque of 15 Nm.

• (1) on the motor-driven pump.

Attach the connector (2) locking it with the respective pin .

11
• Connect the pipe linking the diagnosis pump to the active carbon filter (1).
Position the diagnosis pump, diagnosis pump filter and roll-over valve block on the fuel tank and tighten
the four screws fastening the supporting bracket.

• Attach the diagnosis pump connector (USA Version).

12
• Connect the pipe linking the roll-over valve and the fluid decanter.

• Position the anti-evaporation system cover and tighten the nine screws.

13
• Attach the two emergency soft top opening/closing cable connectors from the rear glove compartment.

• Lock the rear glove compartment in place, tightening the two fastening bolts to a torque of 4 Nm.

14
• Position the soft top pump cover and tighten the two fastening screws.

• Tighten the four fastening screws on the rear glove compartment.

15
• Position the rear vertical matting in the passengers' compartment and fasten it in place with the four
button fasteners.

16
ANTI-EVAPORATION SYSTEM

Replacing the components

• Using the tool 900026320, hold the soft top cover open and set the end part of the soft top in a vertical
position.

• Working in the soft top housing bay, remove the two lateral fastening screws from the glove box.

1
• Working within the passenger compartment, remove the windbreak by loosening the straps fixed to the
roll-bar cover.

N.B.
The windbreak is an optional accessory.

• Open the glove box and remove the four fastening screws.

2
• Detach the connectors and remove glove box.

• Working in the soft top housing bay, unscrew the nine screws on the Anti-evaporation system cover.

3
• Disconnect the roller-over valve connecting pipe and the fluid decanter.

• Detach the diagnostic pump connector ( USA Version ).

4
• Undo the two fastening screws on the bracket supporting the active carbon filter, the diagnosis pump, the
diagnosis pump filter and the roll-over valve.

• Remove the four screws fastening the active carbon filter to the fluid decanter.

5
• Remove the unit consisting of the active carbon filter (1), the diagnosis pump (2), the diagnosis pump
filter (3) and the roll-over valve (4) disconnecting them from their lines.

• Remove the fluid decanter by unscrewing the four screws fastening it to the tank.

6
• Remove the four side victaulic couplings to the vapour separator (Figures 1 and 2).

When fitting, follow the procedures described above in reverse order.

7
ACCELERATOR PEDAL REPLACEMENT

• (MY2003-Cambiocorsa gearbox version) Remove the lower soundproof panel, driver's side, by
unscrewing the two nuts and removing the two fastening caps (Figure 1 and 2).

1
• Use a screwdriver to remove the Seeger ring of the pedal pin.

• Detach the connector on the accelerator potentiometer.

2
• Unscrew the two fastening screws for the potentiometer.

• Remove the accelerator pedal by pressing it towards the inside of the vehicle.

3
• Unscrew the fastening nut on the potentiometer lever and separate the two components.

For refitting, follow the above procedures in reverse order.

4
TIGHTENING TORQUES

Part Nominal torque Products

Preload of 60 Nm
Screw fastening cylinder head to the crankcase MOLYKOTE BR2
90° = 80±10Nm

Screw fastening damper to the crankshaft 450 Nm LOCTITE 242

Nut "E" for stud bolt Screw fastening the sub-crankcase to the
crankcase

Connecting rod tightening screw MOLYKOTE 1000

Nut "E" Screw fastening the camshaft caps 9 Nm

Screw fastening flywheel to crankshaft 91 Nm

Solenoid valves' Screw fastening screw 10 Nm

Screw fastening pump control gearing 23 Nm

Degrease the
coupling surfaces.
Lubricate the
Camshaft control gearing 200 Nm
screw thread and
underhead with
engine oil
engine oil on
Oil filter cartridge 25 Nm
gasket
Screw fastening piston cooling system multiple union (oil
3 Nm LOCTITE 242
nozzles)

Screw fastening RH head alternator 49 Nm

Screw fastening LH head alternator 59 Nm

Timing chain tensioner for camshaft axle control 40 Nm

Screw fastening belt-tensioner pulley 50 Nm

Screw fastening coils on head cover 10 Nm

Screw fastening pumps to the sump 25 Nm

Screw fastening pump body to crankcase 25 Nm

Screw fastening exchanger to crankcase 10 Nm

Screw fastening variator oil pump 3 Nm

 Part Nominal torque Products

Screw fastening exhaust manifolds 25 Nm

Screw fastening front cover to sub-crankcase-crankcase-

10 Nm
heads

Oil pressure sensor 40 Nm

Pipe from accumulator to cylinder heads 25 Nm

Union on heads and accumulator, for oil pipes running from

30 Nm
accumulator and heads

Filler neck union for pipe on the hydraulic steering pump 40 Nm

Exhaust system thermocouples 10 Nm

Lambda sensors 50 Nm

Water temperature sensor 16 Nm

Screw fastening injector rails to intake manifold 25 Nm

Screw fastening detonation sensor 20 Nm

Spark plug
Spark plug 10 Nm
lubricant
with spinner max
"Torca" clamp for exhaust system 54 Nm
400 rpm

Screw fastening r.p.m. sensor 8 Nm

Timing variators 200 Nm

Outlet union for water vapour from the exchanger 15 Nm

Screw fastening hydraulic steering pump 25 Nm

Screw fastening A.C. compressor 25 Nm

Screw fastening auxiliary belt tensioners 25 Nm

Screw fastening timing control transmission mount 6 Nm LOCTITE 242

Screw fastening bushing for LH head tensioner 10 Nm

Screw fastening gearing on timing variator 15 Nm LOCTITE 242

 Part Nominal torque Products

Screw fastening pipe running from the compressor to the

50 Nm
condenser

Screw fastening timing sensor and revolution sensor 8 Nm

Screw fastening cylinder head cover 10 Nm

Screw fastening fixed runner onto transmission 10 Nm

Screw fastening fixed runner for timing system control 25 Nm

Screw fastening pump control fixed runner 10 Nm

Screw fastening moving runner for transmission 10 Nm

Screw fastening timing system movable runner 25 Nm

Screw fastening pump movable runner 10 Nm

Screw fastening intake manifold to head 10 Nm

Screw fastening upper fixed runner 10 Nm

Screw fastening oil delivery pipe to pump 10 Nm

Threaded union on pipe from exchanger to oil tank 75 Nm

Screw fastening wiring cover 8 Nm

Screw fastening engine electric earth 25 Nm

Screw fastening tunnel cross member 49 Nm

Cross journal fastening screws 27,5 Nm

TOOLKIT

Specific tooling

Description Code

RH/LH cylinder head retaining tool AM-107080 900026520

Tool for fitting exhaust valve cotters on cylinder heads AM-107079 900026970

Tool for fitting seal ring on valve AV-3374 900026980

Special wrench for fitting variator oil filters AV-3390 900026990

Punch for fitting cylinder head centering dowel AV-3328 900027000

Punch for fitting centering dowel AV-3329 900027010

Tool for fitting diameter-6 centering dowel AV-3330 900027260

Tool for fitting diameter-13 centering dowel AV-3331 900027270

Special wrench for fitting timing variator on F136 camshaft AV-3305 900027020

Dummy liner AV3335 900027060

Punch for fitting pump unit control shaft on sub-crankcase AV-3324 900027030

Punch for fitting pump unit bearing on sub-crankcase AV-3322 900027040

Punch for fitting pump unit seal ring on sub-crankcase AV-3325 900027050

Punch for fitting seal ring on front crankcase cover AV-3336 900026590

Special wrench for tightening pump body screws to torque AV-3350 900027150

Special wrench for tightening engine mounting bracket

AV-3351 900027160
screws to torque

Crankshaft rotation-stop tool for dumper AV-3294 900026560

Cylinder liner extracting tool SP1413 900026610

Punch for fitting crankshaft bearing, clutch side AV-3147 900026550

Punch for riveting cap AV-2083 900026540

 Description Code

Tool for unlocking clutch 1x 4x dumper 900026220

Radiator guard sheet 900026200

Spacer for resting engine on radiator 900026210

Stand for resting engine and manifolds 900026230

Adjusting tool for lh fuel delivery line 900026280

Adjusting tool for rh fuel delivery line 900026290

Engine support for stand 900026310

Spacer for earth wire connection onto engine stud bolts 900026940

Wrench for fuel tank pump ringnut 900026390

Punch grip 900026300

Punch gauge Ø 6 mm TLDF 006108 95976108

Valve guide punch AS-102178

Punch bushing (valve guide fitting) AV-3537

Extracting tool for seal ring on valve guide AV-2734 95972734

Extracting tool for valve guide AV-2926 95972926

Punch for fitting grommets onto valve guides AV 2692

REMOVING-REFITTING THE ELECTRONICALLY-CONTROLLED GEARBOX

• Position the car on a hoist

• Open the engine and luggage compartments
• Disconnect the battery from the switch in the luggage compartment
• Remove the rear wheels
Replacing the wheels

• Remove the spare wheel housing

Removing /refitting the spare wheel housing

• Remove the heat shield

• Remove the central exhaust line

Removing/refitting the central exhaust line

• Remove the handbrake cables and tie-rods

Removing/refitting the handbrake cables and tie-rods

1
• Detach the cooling system oil delivery and return unions from the gearbox, by unscrewing the two screws

• Unscrew the six RH and LH axle shaft differential output flange screws

2
• Disconnect the main wiring

• Disconnect the quick disconnect

3
• Unscrew the seven transmission shaft gearbox nuts

• Remove the rear frame by unscrewing the four screws on each side

4
• Holding it on both sides, push the gear unit towards the rear of the car until it completely detaches from
the transmission shaft

• Rock the gear unit lightly to extract it from the base of the car

When refitting, proceed in reverse order.

5
REPLACING THE ELECTRONICALLY-CONTROLLED GEARBOX CONTROL UNIT (TCU)

Detaching-reattaching the electronically-controlled gearbox control unit (TCU)

• Using an SD2 tester, take note of the “CLOSED CLUTCH POSITION WHEN NEW” and “PIS” (touch
point) parameters, available on the old ECU.

• Disconnect the battery

Battery disconnection-reconnection

• Unscrew the two screws fastening the control unit to the bracket.

1
• While holding the control unit, detach the connectors.

2
• Unscrew the two retaining nuts to remove the terminal and release the earth wire.

When fitting, follow the procedures described above in reverse order.

• Working in the SD2 diagnosis environment, enter the values you had previously noted into the new
ECU.

• Always working in the SD2 diagnosis environment, run a “SELF-LEARNING CYCLE” for the gearbox.

• Keep the engine running at idle speed and in neutral for 5 minutes, in order to set the gearbox solenoid
valves when warm. With the engine running, engage the 1st-2nd-1st gear in sequence, then keep the
vehicle idling with the first gear engaged and the brake pedal pressed for 1 minute. Repeat the sequence
three times in order to perform a correct evaluation of the clutch solenoid valve leakage.

3
POWER UNIT REPLACEMENT

Removal

• Remove the lower and upper brackets, undoing their fastening screws.

• Remove the side cover, by undoing the 6 fastening screws.

• Carefully clean the contact surfaces between the gearbox housing and the cover.

• Undo the two rear fastening screws.

• Undo the two side fastening screws.

Fitting

• Position the power unit near the gearbox.

• Tighten the four rear fastening screws (1,2,3,4) to a torque of 24 Nm.
• Use LOCTITE 243 on the central screw (4).
• Apply CAF 4 sealant between the gearbox housing and the actuators' side cover.

• Fit the side cover and tighten the screws to 7,4 Nm.
• Fit the lower bracket and the upper bracket.

• Check the oil level.

ESTABLISHING THE ELECTRONICALLY-CONTROLLED GEARBOX OIL TANK LEVEL

N.B.
The following procedure shows how to establish the electronically-controlled gearbox's oil tank level
in the vehicle.

• Top up the oil in the electronically-controlled gearbox tank.

• Set the key in the "key on" position on the panel.

• Make sure the motor-driven pump has charged the electronically-controlled gearbox system.
• Drain the oil from the tank using the specific tool 900026350.
PIS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE

N.B
This operation must only be carried out on versions fitted with the SOFAST 2 gearbox

Before proceeding with PIS (or KISS POINT) the clutch has to be bedded in.
• In order to allow minimal bedding-in of the clutch when driving the first kilometres, follow the instructions
below:
− avoid Sport drive
− gear shifts at max 4000 rpm and max 50% accelerator pedal
− avoid violent pick-ups
− avoid prolonged pickups as far as possible (traffic jams, manoeuvres)
− change gears several times while moving

• Keep the vehicle running in idle for 5 minutes in order to calibrate the solenoid valves when hot. With the
vehicle running, engage 1-2-1 in sequence, hold the vehicle in idle with the 1st gear engaged and the
brake pedal pushed for 1 minute. Repeat the sequence three times to allow correct assessment of the
clutch solenoid valve leakage.

• Proceed with adjusting the PIS or KISS POINT.

• Turn off the engine, checking that the ignition switch is in OFF position
• Unscrew the retaining nut of the lower guard of the instrument panel.
• Partially pull down the lower guard of the instrument panel and access the 4-way connector of the C-CAN
line, then disconnect it.

• Connect SD3 (95970312) to the EOBD diagnostic connector (1).

• Connect the C-CAN connector (2a) to the SD3 cable bundle (95979568))(2b).
• Connect the C-CAN connector (2c) to the SD3 cable bundle (95979568)(2d).
CAUTION
Before adjusting the gear shift / selection actuator system, the following checks must be carried out:

- If the vehicle has been stationary for over 8 hours, it must be driven for 15 minutes in "Free Drive"
conditions with repeated gear shifts.

- If the vehicle has been stationary for over 30 minutes after the bedding stage, perform the pick-up
manoeuvre 10 times, bringing the engine speed up to 1500 rpm.

- If the car has been stationary for less under 30 minutes after the bedding stage, perform the pick-up
manoeuvre 5 times, bringing the engine speed up to 1500 rpm.

• Switch on the SD3 and select the "NCR KISS-POINT" software option from the diagnostic programmes.
• Select the "KISS POINT ENVIRONMENT" function from the list of M138 software
• The user is guided through the subsequent stages by the diagnostic system chosen.
• Enter the vehicle serial number.
• Use the TAB button to select "CONTINUE" then press "ENTER" to confirm the data entered.
• The system will display a warning message for the user, advising him/her of the vehicle conditions
required to run the calibration procedure correctly.
• If the vehicle meets the conditions which permit the procedure to continue, press "ENTER".
• Shift the gear to neutral, turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, wait approximately 15 seconds, then
start the engine and select "ENTER" on the SD3.
• Select "START PROCEDURE "
• The following screen pages instruct the user to keep the accelerator pedal pressed throughout the entire
data acquisition period.
• The system will carry out 10 clutch opening and closing cycles automatically, with the gearbox in the
neutral position, during which the SD3 will acquire the data needed to calculate the touch point (PIS)
correctly.
• Wait for the data acquisition procedure end message to appear on the display and a tone to be emitted by
the instrument panel node.
• The SD3 will display the "TRANSMITTABILITY" graph, i.e. the torque value depending on the clutch
position (in red) and the two reference curves (in black) indicating the tolerance range within which the
transmittability curve must be positioned.

A = CSC bearing movement (Thousandths)

B = Torque (Nm)

• The system will automatically check that the transmittability curve read lies within the two tolerance
curves.
• Two results are possible, depending on the outcome of this processing:
- the data is correct and therefore the system will proceed with the next data acquisition stages.
- the data is incorrect and therefore the procedure will be cancelled and an error message will be
displayed with instructions on how to solve the problem.

• At the end of each data acquisition and processing sequence, the following parameters will be displayed:

- Number of pickups
- PIS value (bit,mm)
- POINT DISPERSION value (bits)

• If completed correctly, the procedure will be performed a further two times.

• On completion of the three stages, the average touch point (PIS) value will be calculated and stored in
the gearbox ECU.
• The message "TOUCH POINT (PIS) WRITTEN CORRECTLY" will appear on the SD3 display.
CLUTCH REMOVAL

Removing the transmission shaft

• Remove the spare wheel housing.

Removing /refitting the spare wheel housing

• Remove the central exhaust line.

Removing/refitting the central exhaust line

• Remove the handbrake cable.

Removing-refitting the handbrake and tie-rods

• Detach the cooling system oil delivery and return hoses from the gearbox by unscrewing their two screws.

1
• Position the hydraulic lift underneath the gearbox and lift the unit slightly.

• Remove the rear cross member by unscrewing the four fastening screws positioned on each side.

2
• Remove the hydraulic lift and unscrew the seven nuts securing the transmission shaft to the gearbox unit,
leaving one nut screwed on to ensure the transmission shaft does not come off unexpectedly (Figure 1).

N.B.
Use a pipe wrench to remove the upper transmission shaft screw (Figure 2).

3
• (MY2003) Remove the four fastening screws on the transmission shaft support bracket.

• Remove the front modular cross member by unscrewing the two screws on each side.

4
• On both sides, unscrew the two screws securing the front rollbar jumpers.

• Lower the front rollbar.

5
• Remove the clip and unscrew the rear Lambda sensor cable bracket screw.

• Unscrew the four Lambda sensors from the catalytic converters.

Mark the RH and LH sensors and the respective catalytic converters to avoid inverting their positions
during re-assembly.

N.B.
When unscrewing the Lamda sensors, make sure the cables do not get damaged by twisting.

6
• Unscrew the two thermocouples from the catalytic converters.

• Unscrew the four screws securing the pre-catalytic converter flange to the exhaust manifolds.

7
• Detach the pre-catalytic converter from the exhaust manifolds and extract the seal.

• Unscrew the two screws securing the catalytic converter support to the clutch housing and remove the
pre-catalytic converters as well as the catalytic converters from the car.

8
• Unscrew the six screws securing the steering box heat shield and remove it from the

• Position a second hydraulic lift underneath the car so as to align the transmission shaft to the gearbox
unit.

9
• Unscrew the eighth screw securing the transmission shaft to the gearbox unit

• From both sides, push the gearbox to the rear of the car until it completely disengages from the
transmission shaft.

N.B.
The unit must be moved about 10 - 15cm to disengage the transmission shaft.

10
• Lower the second hydraulic lift and tilt the transmission shaft sufficiently to allow its removal from the
gearbox unit.

• Unscrew seven of the nuts securing the transmission shaft to the clutch housing, leaving one nut screwed
on so as to avoid the shaft coming off unexpectedly.

11
• Position the front hydraulic lift underneath the engine guard and raise it to fit snugly against one of the
securing screws.

• Use the hoist to rock the transmission shaft until it tilts to the correct position for removal.

12
• Unscrew the eighth screw securing the transmission shaft to the clutch housing.

CAUTION
When the transmission shaft is fully disengaged, take care not to allow it to fall out unexpectedly by
tilting it too far.

13
• Remove the transmission shaft from the car (two operators are required for this procedure).

IMPORTANT
Do not tilt the shaft so far as to damage its machined profile, while still allowing easy extraction.

Clutch removal

• Disconnect the thrust bearing connector from the clutch housing

14
• Remove the seven screws securing the clutch housing to the engine.

• Remove the three screws fastening the starter motor and take out the clutch housing.

15
• Unscrew the six retaining screws (1,3,4,6,7,9) on the clutch pack.

• Position the centring shaft 900026250 on the clutch pack.

Mark the positions of the screws (2,5,8) , and their spacers, as they act as counterweights
Unscrew the three remaining screws (2,5,8) (preceding figure )
Mark the relative position of the clutch pack and engine.

16
• Remove the clutch pack including the car starting wheel.

• Mark the relative position between the clutch, flywheel crown and crankcase.

17
• Unscrew the eight flywheel screws and remove it from the car.

N.B.
Mark the positions of the screws on the flange and the relative position between the plate (1) and the
flywheel(2),

18
RE-ATTACHING THE CLUTCH

Clutch refitting

• Position the plate (1) and the flywheel (2) on the engine, immobilise the flywheel rotation using the special
tool, and screw down the screws to a torque of 91Nm.

N.B.
If re-fitting a flywheel which has previously been removed from the car, position it using the
markings made during removal.

1
• Fit the clutch set with the centring shaft 900026250 and, using the clutch unit removal stage sequence,
loosely fit the three central screws and then the six lateral screws.

IMPORTANT
If re-fitting a clutch unit which has been previously removed from the car, follow the markings made
during removal.

N.B.
The clutch disk is supplied by the manufacturer with the maximum unbalance point marked.

IMPORTANT
If fitting a new clutch disk, its maximum unbalance point must be oriented at 180° with respect to the
maximum unbalance point of the flywheel.

2
• Tighten the nine screws securing the clutch to a torque of 18Nm, in a crosswise sequence.

• Apply waterproof grease onto the grooved profile of the thrust bearing and the two clutch housing
grubscrews.

3
• Position the clutch housing on the engine using a rubber mallet.

• Fit the clip retaining the thrust bearing cabling to the upper stud bolt.

4
• Tighten the seven screws securing the clutch housing to the engine to a torque of 26Nm.

• Tighten the three starting motor screws to a torque of 26Nm.

5
• Attach the thrust bearing / clutch housing connector

• Apply waterproof grease to the grooved profile of the transmission shaft and clutch housing.

6
Refitting the transmission shaft

• Key the transmission shaft to the clutch housing (two operators are required for this procedure).
IMPORTANT
Do not tilt the shaft so far as to damage its machined profile, while still allowing easy extraction.

7
• Use a hoist to align the transmission shaft with the clutch housing, so as to fit the eight transmission shaft
fastening nuts.
CAUTION
When fitting, take care with the angle of the shaft to prevent the latter from coming out
unexpectedly.

• Using the hoist, align the transmission shaft with the gearbox.

8
• Key the transmission shaft to the gearbox and push the gearbox forwards to fit snugly against the shaft.

• Tighten the eight nuts securing the transmission shaft to the gearbox to a torque of 70Nm

9
• Tighten the eight nuts securing the transmission shaft to the clutch housing to a torque of 70Nm.
CAUTION
When fitting, take care with the angle of the shaft to prevent the latter from coming out unexpectedly.

• (MY2003) Refit the bracket supporting the transmission shaft by tightening the four fastening screws to a
torque of 49 Nm.

10
• Fit the heat shield to the steering box and tighten its six screws.

• Fit the pre-catalytic converters, and insert the relative seal between the catalytic converter and the
exhaust manifold.

11
• Tighten the four screws securing the precatalytic converter to the exhaust manifold.

• Fit the catalytic converter support to the clutch housing and tighten its two screws.

12
• Screw the four Lambda sensors and the two thermocouples into their seats.
N.B.
Follow the markings on the Lambda sensors made during removal.

• Screw the two thermocouples into their seats.

13
• Tighten the four nuts securing the rollbar to a torque of 24Nm.

• Tighten the four rollbar screws to a torque of 24Nm.

14
• Mount the rear cross member by tightening the eight fastening screws to a torque of 24Nm.

• Mount the adjuster and fit the handbrake cable to the pulley lever.

15
• Reconnect the handbrake cable.
Removing-refitting the handbrake and tie-rods

• Fit the central exhaust line.

Removing/refitting the central exhaust line

• Mount the spare wheel housing.

Removing /refitting the spare wheel housing

16
CLUTCH BALANCING

IMPORTANT
Since component 9044, a new clutch has been introduced and the visible differences between the
two components are illustrated in the figure.

1
Clutch balancing procedure "for components up to component 9044"

• Before fitting the new clutch set, use a thickness gauge to check the tolerance between the clutch and the
pan, which should be 0.20-0.30 mm.
Using a felt-tip pen, mark the centring between the clutch and the pan.

• Remove the clutch from the vehicle.

Detaching-reattaching the clutch

N.B.
Remove the clutch housing.
Disassemble the clutch set

2
• Mark the point of maximum unbalance on the unit outer casing (see arrow).
• Mark the reference points “0”-“1”-“2” starting from the point furthest from the maximum unbalance and
working anti-clockwise.

• Install the new pan onto the flywheel, without the clutch, and screw down the nine screws, tightening
them to a torque of 18 Nm.
• Position the clutch set's maximum unbalance point at 180° with respect to the maximum unbalance point
of the flywheel (see arrow).

3
• At point “0” in the side section of the pan, attach a reflective strip of approximately 15 x 40 mm.

• Affix the accelerometer mount 900026950 to the lower right-hand part of the crankcase with glue.

4
• Using a screwdriver, rotate the flywheel so as to position point "0" as shown in the figure.

• Insert the accelerometer 900026950 in the relative mount.

5
• Pulling the pressure plate backwards, place a spacer 900026930 in the housing between it and the
retainer.

• Attach the connector for the clutch position sensor.

6
• Secure the starter motor by tightening three screws which have to be shorter than those fastening the
housing unit.

• Connect the earth wire to the crankcase stud bolt.

7
• Refit the exhaust pipe, the four lambda sensors and the two thermocouples.

• Using the arm of a hoist, position the photoelectric cell 900026950 for measuring the engine revolutions
vertically, at a distance of 350 mm from the reflector, as shown in the figure.

8
• Attach the connector holding bundle to the "SD2 DIAGNOSIS SYSTEM".

• Connect the accelerometer's electric wire to the instrument "EQUALIZER DSE1/DSE2", using the socket
marked "Front accelerometer".

9
• Connect the electric cable of the photoelectric cell which measures the speed to the instrument
"EQUALIZER DSE1/DSE2", using the socket marked "transmission shaft speed sensor".

• Connect the cable marked "RS232" to the instrument "EQUALIZER DSE1/DSE2".

• Connect the cable marked "CAN" to the supplementary terminal of cable "RS232".

10
• Prepare the adjustment weights.

• At this point, follow all the steps in the specific SD2 programme.

IMPORTANT:
These procedures must be carried out after balancing the flywheel, following the fitting of new clutch
discs

11
Clutch disc type

Version Code
GT 196021
Cambiocorsa gearbox 196335

• Connect the SD2 tester and select the "M138 Marelli Gearbox" option. In the "Parameters" environment,
read the value for "AUTO-SET CLOSED CLUTCH POSITION". Digit this value in the “DIAGNOSIS”
environment, “CLUTCH CONFIGURATION” option, and store it in the ECU memory. You have thus
correctly configured the parameter “CLOSED CLUTCH POSITION WHEN NEW”.
• Check that the PIS (Touch point) is set at 5.6.
• Keep the vehicle idling in neutral gear for five minutes, in order to set the solenoid valves when cool,
taking care not to perform sharp pick-up manoeuvres during the first movements.

• To allow the clutch to set-in, follow the below instructions at least during the first Kilometres:
- do not drive the car in sport mode
- shift gears at 4000 rpm max and press the pedal only half way down (50%)
- avoid sharp pick-up manoeuvres
- avoid, as much as possible, prolonged pick-ups (in queues, during manoeuvres)
- shift gears several times while driving

• Keep the vehicle idling in neutral gear for five minutes, in order to set the solenoid valves when warm.
With the engine running, engage the 1st-2nd-1st gears in sequence, then keep the vehicle idling with the
first gear engaged and the brake pedal pressed for 1 minute. Repeat the sequence three times in order to
perform a correct evaluation of the clutch solenoid valve leakage.

• Modify the PIS only after having carried out the procedures specified in the first 5 points, following
the below indications:
- if, during UP-shifting, you feel that the rpm tend to “runaway” during the torque discharge phase,
decrease the set value by 0.2 mm max.
- if, during UP-shifting in AUTO mode, with average loads and average rpm, you feel a too strong
“sinking” sensation, increase the set value by 0.2 mm.
• In any case, the PIS values must range between 5.4 and 6.2

• Check the pick-up pressing the pedal down / mid-way, in normal and sport mode, at 1300-1500-1700-
2000 Rpm, and make sure that the clutch closes progressively (two steps max.) performing three
consecutive pick-up manoeuvres maximum and then leaving the clutch cool down.

12
Clutch balancing procedure "for components up to component 9044"

• Remove the clutch from the vehicle.

Detaching-reattaching the clutch

N.B.
Remove the clutch housing.
Disassemble the clutch set

• Mark the point of maximum unbalance on the unit outer casing (see arrow).
• Mark the reference points “0”-“1”-“2” starting from the point furthest from the maximum unbalance and
working anti-clockwise.

13
• Fit the complete clutch block on the flywheel, tightening the nine screws to a torque of 18 Nm.
• Position the clutch set's maximum unbalance point at 180° with respect to the maximum unbalance point
of the flywheel (see arrow).

• At point “0” in the side section of the pan, attach a reflective strip of approximately 15 x 40 mm.

14
• Affix the accelerometer mount 900026950 to the lower right-hand part of the crankcase with glue.

• Using a screwdriver, rotate the flywheel so as to position point "0" as shown in the figure.

15
• Insert the accelerometer 900026950 in the relative mount.

• Pulling the pressure plate backwards, place a spacer 900026930 in the housing between it and the
retainer.

16
• Attach the connector for the clutch position sensor.

• Secure the starter motor by tightening three screws which have to be shorter than those fastening the
housing unit.

17
• Connect the earth wire to the crankcase stud bolt.

• Refit the exhaust pipe, the four lambda sensors and the two thermocouples.

18
• Using the arm of a hoist, position the photoelectric cell 900026950 for measuring the engine revolutions
vertically, at a distance of 350 mm from the reflector, as shown in the figure.

• Attach the connector holding bundle to the "SD2 DIAGNOSIS SYSTEM".

19
• Connect the accelerometer's electric wire to the instrument "EQUALIZER DSE1/DSE2", using the socket
marked "Front accelerometer".

• Connect the electric cable of the photoelectric cell which measures the speed to the instrument
"EQUALIZER DSE1/DSE2", using the socket marked "transmission shaft speed sensor".

20
• Connect the cable marked "RS232" to the instrument "EQUALIZER DSE1/DSE2".
• Connect the cable marked "CAN" to the supplementary terminal of cable "RS232".

• Prepare the adjustment weights.

• At this point, follow all the steps in the specific SD2 programme.

IMPORTANT:
These procedures must be carried out after balancing the flywheel, following the fitting of new clutch
discs

21
Clutch disc type and software

Outfitting Code Software

USA spyder 197095 MAC10E43
USA coupè 197094 MAC10F43
Rest of the world 196833 MAC10D34

• Connect the SD2 tester and select the "M138 Marelli Gearbox" option. In the "Parameters" environment,
read the value for "AUTO-SET CLOSED CLUTCH POSITION". Digit this value in the “DIAGNOSIS”
environment, “CLUTCH CONFIGURATION” option, and store it in the ECU memory. You have thus
correctly configured the parameter “CLOSED CLUTCH POSITION WHEN NEW”.
• The value should be 20 ± 2 mm. If the reading falls within13 + 1/2 (13 + 1mm _ 13 - 2 mm), you will need
to modify the clutch sensor magnet fitting.

Adjusting the clutch sensor magnet

• Keep the vehicle idling in neutral gear for five minutes, in order to set the solenoid valves when cool,
taking care not to perform sharp pick-up manoeuvres during the first movements.

• To allow the clutch to set-in, follow the below instructions at least during the first Kilometres:
- do not drive the car in sport mode
- shift gears at 4000 rpm max and press the pedal only half way down (50%)
- avoid sharp pick-up manoeuvres
- avoid, as much as possible, prolonged pick-ups (in queues, during manoeuvres)
- shift gears several times while driving

• Keep the vehicle idling in neutral gear for five minutes, in order to set the solenoid valves when warm.
With the engine running, engage the 1st-2nd-1st gears in sequence, then keep the vehicle idling with the
first gear engaged and the brake pedal pressed for 1 minute. Repeat the sequence three times in order to
perform a correct evaluation of the clutch solenoid valve leakage.

• Modify the PIS only after having carried out the procedures specified in the first 5 points, following
the below indications:
- if, during UP-shifting, you feel that the rpm tend to “runaway” during the torque discharge phase,
decrease the set value by 0.2 mm max.
- if, during UP-shifting in AUTO mode, with average loads and average rpm, you feel a too strong
“sinking” sensation, increase the set value by 0.2 mm.
• However, the PIS values must always fall between 4.8 and 5.4

• Check the pick-up pressing the pedal down / mid-way, in normal and sport mode, at 1300-1500-1700-
2000 Rpm, and make sure that the clutch closes progressively (two steps max.) performing three
consecutive pick-up manoeuvres maximum and then leaving the clutch cool down.

22
BLEEDING THE CLUTCH

After replacing the system components, bleed the air from the circuit.

IMPORTANT
1. During the bleeding phase, keep checking the oil level in the tank: Must never fall below the
"MIN" level
2. Never re-use the oil which has leaked from the system

This operation requires the use of the special SD2 tester.

Slacken off the bleed union (1) on the LH side of the clutch housing and connect a small pipe to drain the oil
which leaks during bleeding into a container

1
To bleed the clutch using the SD2 tester you must:
• connect the diagnostic socket using the data acquisition cable;
• attach connector E, on the data acquisition cable, to the SD2 tester;
• turn the ignition key to ON;
• launch the bleed program.

Once the bleed program is running the two operators, stationed at the tester and the circuit bleed valve
respectively, can complete the procedure:
• the circuit pump runs in pulse mode; it is therefore essential that the bleed valve be opened when the
pump starts running to stop the circuit being overpressurised
• open and close the valve until the flow of oil becomes uniform. The procedure is now complete.

IMPORTANT
1. Before bleeding a hydraulic circuit, top up the tank with specific oil to avoid emptying out and
thereby damaging the circuit itself.
2. At the end of the procedure, check the fluid level again.

2
ADJUSTING THE CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION

• Check the distance of the switch from the clutch pedal: this must be 3 mm.
If this is not so, loosen the check nut, screw or unscrew the sensor until reaching the above mentioned
value, then tighten the check nut.

1
CLUTCH PEDAL REPLACEMENT

• (MY2003-Cambiocorsa gearbox version) Remove the lower soundproof panel, driver's side, by
unscrewing the two nuts and removing the two fastening caps (Figure 1 and 2).

1
• Remove the seeger ring fastening the clutch pump stem from the pedal.

• Slide the clutch pedal from the pin, taking care to keep the two drive half-bushings.

2
• Remove the clutch pedal spring.

• Remove the stop from the pedal board pin and extract it.

3
• Slide the pin towards the inside of the vehicle and remove the clutch pedal.

• Take care to keep the spacers.

For refitting, follow the above procedures in reverse order.

4
CLUTCH PUMP

• Remove the left-hand internal shield for the engine compartment

• Remove the fastening screws for the engine compartment left-hand shield.

1
• Use a screwdriver to disconnect the gas spring pin from the body.

• Extract the left-hand shield.

2
• Reattach the gas strut stem to the pin.

• Unscrew the clutch oil tank cap. Use a syringe to top up the oil level to half-full.

3
• (MY2003-Cambiocorsa gearbox version) Remove the lower soundproof panel, driver's side, by
unscrewing the two nuts and removing the two fastening caps (Figure 1 and 2).

4
• Working from the engine compartment, undo the two screws fastening the clutch cylinder and remove the
clutch pedal switch using a screwdriver.

• Detach the pump from the sealant and pull the clutch pedal towards the rear of the vehicle.

5
• Use pliers to remove the seeger ring fastening the clutch pump stem to the pedal.

• Separate the clutch pedal from the adjusting screw, taking care to keep the two drive half-bushings.

Unscrew the clutch pipe-pump fastening strip.

6
• Use a screwdriver to remove the clutch pump union stop and extract the pump.

7
For refitting, follow the above procedures in reverse order

• Working from the passenger compartment, tighten the two clutch pump fastening screws to a torque of
20 Nm and apply sealant MULTI PURPOSE SILICONE SEALANT.

N.B.
On completion of the remounting operation, top up the brake fluid in the tank.

8
CLUTCH THRUST BEARING

Clutch thrust bearing removal

• Remove the clutch housing

Clutch removal

• Unscrew the lower union on the thrust bearing block.

• Unscrew the upper union on the thrust bearing block.

1
• Remove the five fastening screws from the thrust bearing unit

• Extract the thrust bearing unit from the clutch housing

2
• Undo the two fastening screws to remove the lower element

• With the thrust bearing unit on bench, unscrew the four fastening screws.

3
• Unscrew the two fastening pins.

• Detach the steering column from the thrust bearing; keep the two springs and pins.

4
Refitting the clutch thrust bearing

• Insert the thrust bearing into the steering column.

• Tighten the two fastening pins to a torque of 7,5 Nm.

5
• Tighten the two fastening screws to a torque of 7,5 Nm.

• Refit the lower element and tighten the two fastening screws to a torque of 1,2 Nm.

6
• Insert the thrust bearing unit into the clutch housing

• Tighten the five fastening screws on the thrust bearing unit to a torque of 7,5 Nm.

7
• Tighten the upper union on the thrust bearing block to a torque of 18 Nm.

• Tighten the lower union on the thrust bearing block to a torque of 18 Nm.

• Mount the clutch housing.

Refitting the clutch

8
ADJUSTING THE CLUTCH SENSOR MAGNET

• Remove the clutch housing

Clutch removal

• Undo screws (1).

Slide the mount (2) out in the direction indicated without removing the sensor (3).

1
• Undo the stud bolts (4).
• Extract the thrust bearing (5) taking care not to damage the inner grommets.
• Remove the springs (6) and the spacers (7).

2
• Remove the pin (8) from the thrust bearing
• Rotate the magnet mount (9) by 180°.
• Re-insert the pin (8).

3
• Dampen the thrust bearing seals (10) with oil from the gearbox actuator unit.
• Carefully slip the thrust bearing over the sliding flange inserting the springs (11) and the spacers (12).

• Tighten the stud bolts (13) to 7.4 Nm, fitting the washers (14) and the washers (15).

N.B.
For all the fastenings use Loctite medium thread brake.

4
• Fit the mount (16).
• Tighten the screws (17) to 1.2 Nm.

N.B.
For all the fastenings use Loctite medium thread brake.

• Mount the clutch housing.

Refitting the clutch

5
HALF SHAFTS

Removal

• Slacken the six screws fastening the right and left half shafts to the differential output flanges.
• Working from both sides, remove the caulking from the nut fastening the wheel hub to the half shaft.

• Slacken the nut fastening the wheel hub to the half shaft.
• Disconnect the anti-roll bar control rod loosening the fastening nuts.
• Remove the half shaft part from the wheel hub connection (Figure 1) and, with the utmost care, withdraw the
half shaft from the vehicle (Figure 2).
Installation

• Working on both sides, insert a new half shaft in the car, then connect its connection part to the wheel hub.

• Connect the anti-roll bar control rod, tightening the fastening nut.
• Tighten the nut fastening the half shaft to the wheel hub to 275 Nm (with lubricated thread) or 320 Nm (when
dry).

• Caulk the fastening nut.

• Connect the left and right half shafts to the differential output flanges, tightening the six screws to 80 Nm.
CROWN WHEEL – DIFFERENTIAL AND TAPERED ROLLER BEARINGS

IMPORTANT
The differential crown wheel is supplied as a spare part together with the pinion (bevel gear pair)
these components must always be replaced as a pair.

Differential removal

• Remove the complete gearbox from the vehicle.

Removing-refitting the electronically-controlled gearbox

• Remove the eleven screws on the gearbox housing cover.

• Slide the gearbox housing cover and the flange shaft off of the gearbox, using the extracting tool
95972714 with pins 900026400.

• Remove the fastening screw for the bearing holder case from the differential compartment.
• Remove the differential from the gearbox housing using tool 95973266.

• To remove the inner roller race for the LH side bearing, use the USAG 454N/3 extracting tool with spacer
washer 900026800, as shown in the figure, and insert the tool arms into the the grooves on the
differential housing.
IMPORTANT
The tapered roller bearings on the differential must always be replaced as a pair. Do not exchange
the components for the two bearings. Do not refit any bearings that have been removed.
• To remove the relative outer race on the LH tapered roller bearing, take out the LH flange shaft and work
on the differential housing.
Removal of the right-hand differential housing cover and flange shafts
Disassembly of the differential housing components

• Lock the diferential using tool 95976628, clamped in a vice, and undo all the screws fastening the crown
wheel.
Take out the differential housing's cover and remove the crown wheel.
IMPORTANT
The crown fastening screws must be replaced after every disassembly procedure.
• To remove the tapered roller bearing inner race, on the RH side, force the roller cage from the inner race.
IMPORTANT
The tapered roller bearings on the differential must always be replaced as a pair. Do not exchange
the components for the two bearings. Do not refit any bearings that have been removed.
• Apply the separator's USAG 472A/3 jaws under the inner race's rim and remove it from the differential
housing using extractor USAG 472N/3 .

• To remove the corresponding outer track on the RH tapered roller bearing, work on the differential
housing side cover.
Removal of the right-hand differential housing cover and flange shafts
Differential reassembly

• After having cleaned the coupling zone on the differential housing, fit the new crown wheel and the
differential housing cover.
Apply LOCTITE 270 on the threading of the new screws and loosely fit them on the differential housing.
Tighten the screws to a preload of 60 Nm working crosswise and using the torque wrench USAG 815 F
(progr. 10) with angle adjustment control, tighten to the yield point.

IMPORTANT
After replacing the crown wheel, check the backlash with the pinion teeth and the differential's roller
bearing preload.
Checking the crown wheel and pinion backlash
Measuring the preload for the differential taper roller bearings
• Fit the inner roller races onto the differential using the base and the punch 95973278 in a vice.

• To install the RH tapered roller bearing outer race, work on the differential housing side cover.
Reassembly of the right-hand differential housing cover and flange shafts

• To install the LH tapered roller bearing outer race, insert the LH flange shaft and work on the differential
housing.
Reassembly of the differential housing components
Reassembly of the right-hand differential housing cover and flange shafts
• Insert the differential-crown wheel set into the differential housing, using the tool 95973266.

• Tighten the thirteenth fastening screw for the bearing holder case to a torque of 30 Nm.
• Clean and degrease the contact surfaces on the cover and differential housing and outline the holes
uniformly and evenly with LOCTITE 510.
Fit the differential housing cover matching the lubrication opening (1) found on the cover with the
differential housing retaining washer (2).

• Position the two cable-guide brackets (3) and tighten the eleven fastening screws on the differential
housing cover to a torque of 30 Nm, proceeding crosswise.
N.B.
The front fastening screw differs in the length of the thread stem. check the figure for proper fitting.
GEARBOX REMOVAL

IMPORTANT
In order to read the gearbox identification number (Figure 1), which is found under the plastic cover
for the gearbox housing (Figure 2), you must remove the adhesive tape (Figure 3), after having
disassembled the mechanical gearbox control with its driving rod (“cambiocorsa” gearbox version)
or the actuator.

1
• Drain the oil in the gearbox from the cap found on the front cover.

• Remove the gearbox from the car.

Gearbox detaching-reattaching

2
Removal of the right-hand differential housing cover and flange shafts

• Remove the eleven screws on the gearbox housing cover.

• Slide the gearbox housing cover and the flange shaft off of the gearbox, using the extracting tool
95972714 with pins 900026400.

3
• Remove the O-ring from the gearbox housing cover.

• Remove the Seeger ring from the flange shaft.

4
• Rivet the flange shaft with a rubber hammer and extract it from the differential housing cover.

• Remove the grommet from the gearbox housing cover using a flat screwdriver.

5
• Remove the ball bearing, the adjustment ring and the external tapered roller bearing seat from the flange
shaft using the punch (b) on the tool 900026410, the support tool 95976628 and the press.

IMPORTANT
The ball bearing removed with this procedure must always be replaced.

• Remove the fastening screw for the bearing holder case from the differential compartment.

6
• Remove the differential from the gearbox housing using the tool 95973266.

• Remove the Seeger ring from the differential compartment.

7
• Slide off the flange shaft, left-hand side, from the gearbox using the extracting tool 95972714 with pins
900026400.

• Remove the grommet from the gearbox housing, using a flat screwdriver.

8
• Remove the Seeger ring from the gearbox housing using two flat screwdrivers simultaneously.

• Remove the left-hand flange shaft support bearing with a USAG 468/2 standard bearing extractor
and accessory 468A/7.

9
Removal of shaft-rods unit with forks

N.B.
Before working on the internal parts of the gearbox, it is advisable to check the housing for any
cracks or deformation, or the presence of lubricant leakage from couplings or from the closure
flanges.

IMPORTANT
If replacement of the gearbox housing is necessary, the thickness of the crown wheel and pinion
spacers should be calculated on the basis of the new dimensions.

• Unscrew the two fastening screws for the lubrication nozzle from the differential compartment.

10
• Remove the lubrication nozzle from the differential compartment and then the O-ring.

• Lock the vertical hooking bracket900026790 on the front gearbox housing cover with two screw nuts.

11
• Sling the gearbox housing and lock it on the vertical mount for the trolley 900026840 using the special
screw nut.

• Remove the vertical hooking bracket 900026790. Unscrew the thirteen perimeter fastening screws on the
front cover and take the latter off of the gearbox housing.

12
• Slide the O-ring off the centering pin and use the USAG 468S11 bushing extractor or a flat screwdriver to
remove the ball bushing.

• Remove the grommet from the front cover using the tool 900026870 and a rubber hammer.

13
• Working from the differential compartment, unscrew the eight fastening screws for the bearing holder
case and remove the sheet protecting the oil passage lines (1).

• Slide off the reverse gear idle gearing (2) with its respective shouldering rings (3). There are two
shouldering rings, one for each side of the idle gearing.

14
• Rivet the two elastic pins off of the rod using a suitable pin-driver.

• Engage two gears to block the main shaft.

15
• Shift to neutral. Rivet the main shaft ring nut - front side - and use the tool 900026770 to unscrew it off of
the main shaft.

IMPORTANT
All ring nuts that are removed must be replaced.

• Slide the Seeger ring off the lay shaft.

16
• Remove the reverse gear fork by sliding it off the control rod.

• Insert the centering bushing 900026780 on the Reverse gear synchronizer.

17
• Position the ends of the USAG 454N/2 extractor arms under the Reverse driven gearing and extract the
latter and the Reverse gear synchronizer together with the lay shaft.

• Slide the Reverse gearing roller cage off the lay shaft.

18
• Unscrew the four fastening screws on the bearing retaining plate.

• Slide the bearing retaining plate off the lay shaft.

19
• Slide the driving Reverse gearing and respective O-ring off the lay shaft.

• Unscrew the thirteen screws securing the gearbox housing to the differential housing.

20
• Insert a centering bushing of suitable dimensions on the main shaft, screw the extractor 900026810 tie-
rods into the two holes for the screws removed previously and remove the gearbox housing.

• Slide the Seeger ring off the lay shaft.

21
• Fit the centering bushing 900026780 onto the lay shaft. Position the USAG 454N/2 extractor arms under
the 1st speed gearing and lift it just enough to release the components placed on the lay shaft between
the track with the bearing rollers and the 1st speed gearing.

• Leave the complete 1st speed gearing assembled on the shaft and remove the track with the bearing
rollers, the spacer and the shouldering fifth wheel.

22
• Position the tool 900026420 plate (a) on the shafts. Insert the tool 900026420 bush (b) on the lay shaft
and lock it with the Seeger ring.

• Insert the specific bushings (c and d) for tool 900026420 on the fork support rods and lock them with their
respective socket head screws.

23
• Position the spacer (f) on the main shaft and lock the ring nut (e) using the specific wrench (g) on tool
900026420.

• Screw a hook on the tool 900026420 and hook it onto a hoist.

24
• Position the tool 900026860 under the pinion to release the support bearing coupling and to facilitate
removal.

• Lift the complete assembly of shafts up from the differential housing.

25
• Remove the complete tool 900026420 from the shaft-rod unit with forks, following the assembly
procedures in reverse order.

• Detach the 5th - 6th speed fork from the lay shaft and the 1st - 2nd and 3rd - 4th gear forks from the
main shaft.

26
Disassembly of the gearbox housing components

• Remove the gearbox housing together with the oil pump, main shaft ball bearing, the external seat for the
tapered roller bearing, the ball bushing for the control rod and the lubrication channel.

• Working from inside the gearbox housing, extract the external track for the roller bearing using the
punch/extractor (a) on the tool 900026460 and then remove the ball bushing using the USAG 468S11
bushing extractor
IMPORTANT
Do not refit any ball bushings that have been removed.

27
• Working from inside the gearbox housing, extract the ball bearing using the punch 900026470. The
bearing is equipped with a stop ring used to obtain a correct positioning.

• Remove the two fastening screw nuts from the channel and remove the latter.

28
• Remove the ball bushing in the gearbox housing - front cover side - using the USAG 468S11 bushing
extractor or a flat screwdriver.

IMPORTANT
Do not refit any ball bushings that have been removed.

• Unscrew the four fastening screws with the rubber washer and remove the gearbox oil pump.

29
Main shaft disassembly

• Lock the base (a) of the tool 900026440 in a vice and insert the main shaft from the front cover side.

• Remove the ring nut and the check nut - differential housing side - from the main shaft using a specific
wrench 900026880.
IMPORTANT
All ring nuts that are removed must be replaced.

30
• Insert a centering bushing of suitable dimensions on the main shaft and, using a USAG 452N/2 extractor
with arms, lift the 3rd - 4th speed synchronizer sliding coupling up by a few millimeters.

• Push the 4th speed gearing downwards and remove the roller bearing, positioning the USAG 452N/2
extractor arms under the internal ring of the bearing.

31
• Slide the support washer and the 4th speed gearing off the main shaft.

• Slide the roller cage for the 4th speed gearing off the main shaft.

32
• Remove the Seeger ring and slide off the sliding coupling, the balls, the dowels and the 3rd - 4th speed
synchronizer springs.

• Position the spacer 900026490 on the main shaft and position the tool 95973272.

33
• Fasten the 95973272 extractor arms in the dowel seats of the 3rd - 4th speed synchronizer hub and
extract it.

• Slide the 3rd - 4th speed synchronizer rings, the 3rd speed gearing and the roller cage off the main
shaft.

34
• Rivet the chamferings in the shouldering ring nut and unscrew it off the main shaft using the 95973246
wrench.

• Slide the 6th speed gearing, the roller cage, the sliding coupling, the balls, the dowels and the 5th - 6th
speed synchronizer springs off the main shaft.

35
• Working from the recess found in the 5th - 6th speed synchronizer hub, use a flat screwdriver to slide
off the spacer and remove the underlying Seeger ring.

• Insert the main shaft on a support cylinder (1), resting the 5th speed gearing on the support flange
900026820. Press the shaft to release and extract the 5th - 6th speed and 5th speed gearing
synchronizer hub and rings.

36
Lay shaft disassembly

N.B.
The double 5th - 6th and 3rd - 4th speed gearings are interference-fit on the lay shaft. The two
tapered roller bearings are positioned between the pinion and gearings with a retainer ring nut and a
spacer which determines the pre-loading of the bearings. The removal of these components from the
shaft is a delicate procedure which should only be performed if the crown wheel and pinion or the
above-mentioned parts are being replaced.

• Fit the lay shaft, pinion side, in the base (a) of the tool 900026450.

37
• Insert the centering bushing 900026780 on the lay shaft and using the USAG 454N/2 extractor with arms,
slide off the spacer, the shouldering fifth wheel and the 1st speed gearing.

• Remove the roller cage for the 1st speed gearing from the lay shaft.

38
• Use the USAG 454N/3 extractor with its arm ends resting on the 2nd speed gearing, after having
inserted the centering bushing 900026780. Slide the internal bushing, the complete 1st - 2nd speed
synchronizer and the 2nd speed gearing off the lay shaft.

• Remove the Seeger ring, the roller cage for the 2nd speed gearing from the lay shaft.

39
• Install the lay shaft on a support cylinder (1), resting the 5th speed gearing on the support flange
900026820. Press the shaft to release and extract the shouldering fifth wheel and the double 5th - 6th
speed gearing.

• With the support flange resting on the 3rd speed gearing, press the shaft to release and extract the
double 3rd - 4th speed gearing.

40
• Block the tool 95973257 support plate in a vice and insert the lay shaft, matching the raised flange
sections with the ring nut notches. To keep the shaft in this position, use the supplied screw and lock it on
the bearing holder case.

• Apply the tool 95973247 on the end of the lay shaft to release the ring nut retaining the bearings. Undo
the screw supplied with the toolkit 95973257 and remove the ring nut from the lay shaft.
IMPORTANT
All ring nuts that are removed must be replaced.

41
• Suitably support the bearing holder case with a support cylinder and, using the press, slide the case, the
front tapered roller bearing and the external track for the rear tapered roller bearing off the lay shaft.

• Using the FACOM U.53J2 bearing extractor, press the lay shaft and slide off the internal track for the
front tapered roller bearing and the middle spacer.
Take out the second taper roller bearing using tool 900026800 and arm extracting tool USAG 454N/3.

42
• Remove the external track for the front tapered roller bearing from the bearing holder case, while
adequately holding the case with a support cylinder 900026450; press with bushing 900026450.

Disassembly of the differential housing components

• Remember to keep the spacer for the bearing holder case from the differential housing.

43
• Undo the two fastening screws on the 1st - 2nd and Reverse gear speed control rod bushing and
remove the latter from the differential housing .

• Unscrew the socket head screw and remove the rubber washer and the retaining bushing from the
differential housing.

44
• Extract the external track for the tapered roller bearing with USAg 468/2 extractor and accessory 468A/7
from the differential housing.

• Remove the ball bushing from the differential housing using the USAG 468S11 bushing extractor or a flat
screwdriver.

IMPORTANT
Do not refit any ball bushings that have been removed.

45
• Remove the adjustment ring and the external track for the tapered roller bearing from the differential
compartment, using the expanding hub (a) on tool 9000264600.

46
REFITTING THE DIFFERENTIAL -GEARBOX -

N.B.
1. In order to perform a visual inspection of the components, all metal parts should be washed
thoroughly with a solvent, possibly a biodegradable one, and then blown with compressed
air.
Be especially careful with the internal lubrication lines on the gearbox shafts, the housings
and the cover, as they must be perfectly clean.
2. Ensure that the housings and cover are free of cracks and that the bearing housings are
intact, showing no scoring or grooves. If such defects are found, replace immediately.
3. Ensure that the surfaces and the profile of the gearing teeth show no traces of wear or
spalling. The contact zone should extend over the entire length of the tooth and
and it must be smooth and uniform. Replace all gearings showing these defects.
4. Prior to reassembly of the double gearings, the coupling surfaces must be visually inspected:
there should not be any scoring or deformation.
5. Ensure that the gearings have maintained the prescribed minimum interference with the lay
shaft. If not, replace the components immediately.
6. Check the sides of the sliding couplings and the contact surfaces on the gear-shifting forks
for wear. It is extremely important that the contact surfaces on the fork and the coupling
remain perpendicular with respect to the support rods.
7. Ensure that the shimming surfaces on the idle gearings, the spacers and the shouldering
rings are free of burrs or ripples. In such cases, replace them.
8. Ensure that the claw clutches on the couplings and the idle gearings are free of burrs,
spalling or excessive wear that could impair the clutch.
9. Ensure that the threadings and grooves on the shafts, synchronizer hubs and the Reverse
driving gear are intact.
10. In addition to the closing plugs for the machined holes on the gearbox housing and
differential, tapered-thread plugs are also fitted to close the lubrication lines. In case of
removal, apply LOCTITE 510 on the threading.
11. The oil breather is driven into the gearbox housing until flush. Ensure that it is not blocked by
any foreign matter.

IMPORTANT
Proper positioning and end float of the gearings on the main and lay shafts is determined by the
shouldering rings. The thickness of the latter must be checked each time a component in the set is
replaced. It is possible to keep the same shoulderings only in the case that the new component
presents a deviation equal to or lower than 0.02 mm with respect to the thickness of the replaced
component.

1
Differential housing reassembly

• Insert the differential with the beveled edge facing the differential housing seat and position the external
track of the tapered roller bearing.

• Bring the external track of the tapered roller bearing flush with the differential housing using the tool
900026460 punch (b) and press.

2
• Bring the external track of the tapered roller bearing in the differential housing flush using the punch
95973259.

• Lock the external track for the roller bearing with the retaining bushing, washer and the fastening screw
by applying LOCTITE 242 and tightening it to a torque of 1.4 Nm.

3
• Insert the new ball bushing on the differential housing using the punch 95973267.

• Lock the control rod bushing on the differential housing with two washers and fastening screws.

4
Main shaft reassembly

IMPORTANT
Clean and degrease the main shaft surface and the interior gearing surfaces.

Checking the 3rd - 4th and 5th - 6th speed synchronizer for wear.

• Form a set by centering the middle synchronizer ring with gasket (1) in the external ring (2) and inserting
the internal ring (3) in the middle ring - the couplings must be parallel and uniform.
Rest the set thus formed with the divergent part of the internal ring on a suitable checking plane. Then
while maintaining light pressure on the external ring, measure the distance at diametrically opposite
points.
If it is less than the prescribed distance, replace the synchronizer.

IMPORTANT
Visually inspect the male cone which should not show lapping, excessive ripples or overheated
zones.

5
6
5th - 6th speed synchronizer reassembly

N.B.
Prior to reassembly, lubricate all synchronizer components with gearbox oil and particularly the
rings with gaskets.

• Fit the 5th - 6th speed synchronizer rings on the coupling element for the 5th speed gearing, being
careful as to the positioning of the driving teeth on the internal ring (1) with respect to the external ring (2).

7
• Insert the main shaft, differential housing side, on the base (a) of the tool 900026440.
Using the punch (b) on the tool 900026440 , bring the set formed and the 5th - 6th speed synchronizer
hub flush with the main shaft.

N.B.
The 5th - 6th speed synchronizer hub can be fitted in both directions without distinction.

• Insert the sliding coupling on the 5th - 6th speed synchronizer hub and fit the Seeger ring on the main
shaft.

8
• Insert the 6th speed gearing spacer with the grooved side resting on the 5th - 6th speed synchronizer
hub retaining Seeger ring, using the tubular punch (b) on the tool 900026440.
Push the sliding coupling towards the 5th speed gearing. Put the springs inside the dowels and using a
screwdriver, push them into the seats, inserting the balls as well.

• Fit the 5th - 6th speed synchronizer rings on the coupling element for the 6th speed gearing, being
careful as to the positioning of the driving teeth on the internal ring (3) with respect to the external ring (4).
Insert the set formed onto the main shaft after having first inserted the roller cage.

9
• Apply LOCTITE 242 on the shouldering ring nut threading and using the wrench 95973246, tighten to the
torque of 70 Nm.

• Bend the shouldering ring nut on the two points (see arrows), corresponding to the main shaft notches.

10
3rd - 4th speed synchronizer reassembly

N.B.
Prior to reassembly, lubricate all synchronizer components with gearbox oil and particularly the
rings with gaskets.

• Fit the 3rd - 4th speed synchronizer rings on the 3rd speed gearing coupling element, carefully checking
the positioning of the driving teeth (1) on the internal ring with respect to the external ring (2). Then fit the
set formed on the main shaft after having first inserted the roller cage.

11
• Lock the set formed and the 3rd - 4th speed synchronizer hub onto the tool 95976121 with a screw and
a washer of suitable dimensions.
Insert the sliding coupling onto the synchronizer hub.

N.B.
The 3rd - 4th speed synchronizer hub can be fitted in both directions without distinction.

• Using a screwdriver, put the spring inside the dowel and push it into the seat, inserting the ball as well.

12
• Insert the set formed onto the main shaft using the tubular punch (c) on tool 900026440 and a hammer.

• Fit the Seeger ring on the main shaft.

13
• Fit the 3rd - 4th speed synchronizer rings onto the 4th speed gearing coupling element, carefully
checking the positioning of the driving teeth on the internal ring with respect to the external ring. Then put
the set formed on the main shaft after having first inserted the roller cage.

• Insert the support washer on the main shaft with the slotted side facing the gearing.

14
• Bring the internal track for the roller bearing flush with the support washer, using the punch (d) on the tool
900026440 and a hammer.

• Apply LOCTITE 242 on the ring nut and check nut threading and use the wrench 900026880 to tighten
the two ring nuts in sequence to a torque of 100 Nm.

15
Lay shaft reassembly

IMPORTANT
All ring nuts that are removed must be replaced.
Clean and degrease the main shaft surface and the interior gearing surfaces.

• Using the press, drive in the external track of the front tapered roller bearing flush with the bearing holder
case using the base (a) and the punch (d) on the tool 900026450.

16
• With the press, drive in the internal track for the rear tapered roller bearing using the tubular punch (b) on
the tool 900026450.

• Position the outer track for the rear tapered roller bearing, the spacer, the internal track for the front
tapered roller bearing and the bearing holder case. Then using the press and the tubular punch (b) on the
tool 900026450, bring it flush.

17
• Loosely fit the ring nut, pinion side, onto the lay shaft.

• Block the tool 95973257 support plate in a vice and insert the lay shaft, matching the raised flange
sections with the ring nut notches. To keep the shaft in this position, use the supplied screw and lock it on
the bearing holder case.

18
• Fit the tool 95973247 on the end of the lay shaft and tighten the bearing retainer ring nut to the torque of
300 Nm with the FACOM R.250A torque wrench. Undo the screw supplied with the toolkit 95973257 and
remove the lay shaft from the latter.

• Put the two double gearings and the shouldering ring in an oven for at least 2 hours at a temperature of
140°C.
Position the pinion under the press and use the tubular punch (b) on the tool 900026450 to drive in the
first double gearing.
Leave it under load (10000 Kg) for at least 15 minutes and allow the shaft to cool.

19
• Remove the second double gearing from the oven and follow the same procedure described above to
drive it onto the lay shaft, using the tubular punch (c) on the tool 900026450.

• Remove the shouldering ring from the oven, set it on the side with the notches facing the double gearing
and following the same procedure described above, drive it onto the lay shaft, using the tubular punch (c)
on the tool 900026450.

20
• Insert the roller cage for the 2nd speed gearing on the lay shaft and lock it into place with the Seeger ring.

21
Checking the 1st - 2nd speed synchronizer for wear

• Form a set by centering the first middle synchronizer ring with gasket (1) in the external ring (2), inserting
the internal ring (3) in the middle ring and adding the second ring with gasket (4) to the set, ensuring that
the couplings are parallel and uniform.
Rest the set thus formed with the divergent part of the internal ring on a suitable checking plane. Then
while maintaining light pressure on the external ring, measure the distance at diametrically opposite
points.

IMPORTANT
Visually inspect the male cone which should not show lapping, excessive ripples or overheated
zones.

22
• Position the 1st - 2nd speed synchronizer rings on the 2nd speed gearing coupling element and fit the
set formed on the lay shaft.

23
• Insert the complete 1st - 2nd speed synchronizer on the lay shaft and bring it flush with the punch
95973262.

N.B.
After inserting the synchronizer, ensure that the 2nd speed gearing moves freely.

• Insert the 1st speed gearing bushing on the lay shaft with the punch 95973263.

24
• Insert the roller cage for the 1st speed gearing on the lay shaft.

• Position the 1st - 2nd speed synchronizer rings on the 1st speed gearing coupling element and fit the set
formed on the lay shaft.

25
• Fit the shouldering fifth wheel on the lay shaft using punch 95973263.

• Insert the 5-mm spacer on the lay shaft.

26
Reassembly of gearbox housing components

IMPORTANT
In the event of retaining washer replacement, use 95973268 (∅ 14 mm), 900026830 (∅ 8mm) punches
to fit them.

• Fit the two centering dowels and the new O-rings on the gearbox housing.

• Insert the external track for the roller bearing on the gearbox housing, front cover side, using the tool
900026480.

27
• Insert the roller box on the gearbox housing, front cover side, using the punch (d) on the tool 900026480.

• Using the punch (c) on the tool 900026480, insert the ball bushing on the gearbox housing, front cover
side.

28
• Insert the ball bushing in the gearing compartment of the gearbox housing, using the punch 95973267.

• Lock the raceway in the gearing compartment with two bolts and their respective washers and apply
LOCTITE 270.

29
• Fasten the positive-displacement pump driven by the auxiliary gearing for reverse gear,on the gearbox
housing, using four fastening screws and rubber washers.

30
Reassembly of shaft-rod unit with forks

• Assemble the shafts and forks with the respective control rods.

• Fit all of the tool components 900026420 on the shaft-rod unit with forks and lock into place.

31
• Position the spacer on the refaced surface of the differential housing.

• Fit the three centering screws (a) for the tool 900026430 on the bearing holder case in diametrically
opposite positions and while lifting the unit slowly with a hoist, insert it into the housing gradually in order
to prevent bumping or interference.

32
• Working from the differential compartment, bring the unit flush using the screw nut (b) supplied with the
tool 900026430 and a socket wrench.

• Unscrew the tool 900026430 removing it from the bearing holder case. Position the sheet (A), apply
LOCTITE 270 on the eight fastening screws and tighten to the torque of 30 Nm proceeding crosswise.

33
• Put the roller bearing on the lay shaft using the tubular punch 95973262.

• Insert the Seeger ring on the lay shaft.

34
Gearbox housing reassembly

• Clean and degrease the contact surfaces on the gearbox and differential housing and outline the holes
uniformly and evenly with LOCTITE 510.
Lock the thirteen fastening screws on the housings, tightening them to the torque of 30 Nm.

• Working from the differential compartment, check the condition of the O-ring and fit it on the lubrication
nozzle.

35
• Apply LOCTITE 270 on the threading of the two fastening screws for the lubrication nozzle and position
the two respective washers. Tighten to the torque of 10 Nm.

N.B.
The two fastening screws have different thread stem lengths; check the figure for proper fitting.

• Put the ball bearing on the main shaft and bring it flush with the gearbox housing using the punch
900026470.

36
• Position the O-ring on the main shaft and fit the two centering dowels with the respective new O-rings.

• Lock the bearing retaining plate on the gearbox housing with the two hexagonal-head fastening screws,
(B), tightening them to the torque of 30 Nm and the two socket head screws (C) and the retaining plate
for the toothed washers, to the torque of 26 Nm, after applying LOCTITE 270 sealer.

37
• Insert the Reverse driving gear on the main shaft and the roller cage on the lay shaft.

38
Checking the Reverse gear synchronizer for wear

• Center the synchronizer ring (1) on the respective clutch cone. The two cones must be in a position to
mate uniformly and in a parallel manner by means of the relative axial rotation.
Check the distance between the coupling element (2) and the synchronizer ring at several points that are
diametrically opposite each other.
If it is less than the prescribed distance, replace the synchronizer.

IMPORTANT
Visually inspect the male cone which should not show lapping, excessive ripples or overheated
zones.

IMPORTANT
From gearbox no. 2406 on, a new 63 mm diameter RM synchronizer has been fitted (previously 63
mm). Apart from the single components, this change affects the synchronizer, the RM gearing and
the roller retaining washer. New parts cannot be used to replace pre-modification parts. When
replacing even one component only, the complete new RM synchorizer must be fitted as well as the
new RM gearing.

39
40
Reverse gear synchronizer reassembly

IMPORTANT
From gearbox no. 2406 on, a new 63 mm diameter RM synchronizer has been fitted (previously 63
mm). Apart from the single components, this change affects the synchronizer, the RM gearing and
the roller retaining washer. New parts cannot be used to replace pre-modification parts. When
replacing even one component only, the complete new RM synchorizer must be fitted as well as the
new RM gearing.

• Insert the Reverse driven gear on the lay shaft and position the Reverse synchronizer rings on the gear
coupling element.

41
• Insert the synchronizer hub for the Reverse gear synchronizer using punch 95973263, carefully checking
to ensure that the lubrication slots on the element are facing the gear.

N.B.
Match the synchronizer hub recess with the coupling of the synchronizer rings.

• Position the three springs on the Reverse gear synchronizer hub.

42
• Fit the sliding coupling on the Reverse gear synchronizer hub, with the Reverse gear fork fitted.

N.B.
Ensure that the notch on the sliding coupling is facing the recess in the synchronizer hub.

• Fit the rollers on the Reverse gear synchronizer using a flat screwdriver and pushing the sliding coupling
towards the Reverse driven gearing.

43
• Insert the Seeger ring on the lay shaft.

• Put the elastic pins on the Reverse gear fork using a pin-driver, as well as the tool 900026430 to help
center them.

44
• Fit the shouldering ring on the roller box with the protruding part inserted between the gearbox housing
retainers.

• Fit the Reverse gear idle gearing on its respective seat.

45
• Engage the two gears and fasten the ring nut on the main shaft. Apply LOCTITE 242 and using the tool
900026770, tighten to a torque of 100 Nm.

• Bend the main shaft ring nut, front cover side.

46
Front cover reassembly

Bring the roller box (a) flush with tool 95973267. Insert the grommet on the front cover with the punch
900026760 and slide the new O-ring onto the pin.

• Grease the surface on which the shouldering ring rests, on the front cover, to keep it positioned between
the retainers during cover reassembly.

47
• Clean and degrease the contact surfaces on the gearbox housing and the front cover. Outline the holes
uniformly and evenly with LOCTITE 510.
Lock the thirteen stud bolts and fastening screws on the front cover, tightening them to a torque of 30
Nm, proceeding crosswise (Figure 1).
N.B.
Insert the scraper ring 900026850 guard on the shaft (Figure 2).

48
Reassembly of the differential housing cover and flange shafts

• Bring the ball bearing flush with the differential housing seat using the punch 900026890 and a hammer.

• Fit the Seeger ring on the differential housing.

49
• Clean the seat for the new grommet thoroughly and grease it adequately.
Place the grommet with the closed side facing outward and using the base and the punch on the tool
900026410, bring it flush with the differential housing.

IMPORTANT
Lubrication of the grommet is indispensable to ensure its proper functioning.

• Fit the left-hand flange shaft on the differential housing using the punch (a) on the tool 95973276.

50
• Working from the differential compartment, fit the Seeger ring on the differential housing.

• Insert the new ball bearing and center the differential housing cover on the base (a) of the tool 95973275.

51
• Position the spacer on the cover ball bearing, differential housing side, with the side equipped with slots
for the passage of the lubricating oil opposite the bearing.

• Bring the external track for the tapered roller bearing flush with the differential housing cover using the
95973275 toolkit and the press.

52
• Clean the seat for the new grommet thoroughly and grease it adequately.
Place the grommet with the closed side facing outwards and, using the base and the punch on the tool
900026410, bring it flush with the differential housing cover.

IMPORTANT
Lubrication of the grommet is indispensable to ensure its proper functioning.

• Lubricate the right-hand flange shaft pin with gearbox oil.

Bring the right-hand flange shaft flush with the differential housing cover using the base and punch on the
tool 95973276 under the press.

53
• Fit the Seeger ring on the differential housing cover.

• Check the condition of the O-ring and fit it on the differential housing cover.

54
• Insert the differential- crown wheel set inside the differential housing, using the tool AV3266.

• Tighten the thirteenth fastening screw for the bearing holder case to the torque of 30 Nm.

55
• Clean and degrease the contact surfaces on the cover and differential housing and outline the holes
uniformly and evenly with LOCTITE 510.
Fit the differential housing cover matching the lubrication opening (1) found on the cover with the
differential housing retaining washer (2).

• Position the two cable-guide brackets (3) and tighten the eleven fastening screws on the differential
housing cover to the torque of 30 Nm, proceeding crosswise.

N.B.
The front fastening screw differs in the length of the thread stem. check the figure for proper fitting.

56
Seal test

To check for leaks, a seal test can be performed on the gearbox housing when it is completely assembled.

IMPORTANT
If leaks are present, the external grommets must be replaced and/or the front cover, gearbox housing
and differential housing couplings must be checked.

• Plug all openings leading outside of the gearbox housing and remove the breather valve.

57
• Fit the union 95973283 in the breather valve seat and, using a standard inflation equipment provided with
a precision pressure gauge, let in air up to the pressure of 0.3 bar. A drop in pressure of 20 Pascal in 15
seconds is acceptable.

N.B.
Use a leak detector spray on the gearbox to check for the presence of any leaks.

58
ADJUSTMENTS AND CHECKS

IMPORTANT
For fitting and removing the gearbox components required for the adjustment and check procedures,
follow the operations indicated in the chapters "Gearbox removal" and "Gearbox reassembly".
Gearbox removal
Gearbox reassembly

Measuring the pre-load for the differential taper roller bearings

• Place the differential on a checking plane.

1
• Check the flatness of the outer track for the upper taper roller bearing (Figure 1 and 2).

2
• Measure the distance W between the side surfaces of the bearings' outer rings (Figure 1,2 and 3).

3
4
• Measure the distance X between the crown rear surface and the side surface of the lower bearing's outer
ring (Figure 1 and 2).

5
• The deviation t from the theoretical distance of 45,10 mm is marked on the differential crown wheel.

• Thus the actual distance G between the crown rear surface and pinion axis is:

6
• To determine the total dimension L of the differential set with bearings and spacers calculate: (Figure 1):
• Where R and V are printed on the differential housing (Figure 2 and 3) and the differential cover (Figure
4 and 5) respectively.

7
8
9
• The spacer thickness S3, on the differential housing side, is calculated as follows (Figure 1):
N.B.
S is punched on the differential housing (Figure 2).

10
• To calculate the spacer S4, on the differential cover side, a bearing preload of 0,07 mm must be taken
into account.
Calculate the thickness as follows:

N.B.
The thickness of the spacers supplied as spare parts may not correspond to the values obtained
through the calculations described: in this case, the spacers must be adjusted to the right size using
a surface grinder.

11
Checking the differential housing rolling torque

N.B.
To check the rolling torque of the differential housing, it is essential that the lay shaft is not installed.

• Place the differential in its housing using tool 95973266.

• Fit the differential cover tightening the fastening screws to the torque 30 Nm.

12
• Fit the prescribed tool 95973266 (Figure 1).into the seat for the right hand flange shaft and fit the specific
torque wrench onto the tool hexagon (Figure 2).
• Rotate the differential checking that the torque is as prescribed (Figure 3).

13
Checking the crown wheel and pinion backlash

• Fit the prescribed tools 900026430 onto the bearing case.

14
• Position the bearing case spacer (Figure 1) and fit the lay shaft onto the differential housing (Figura 2).

15
• Working from the differential compartment, bring the unit flush using the nut (b) supplied with tool
900026430 and a socket wrench.

• Remove the centering tools and fix the case in its seat using the specific screws to the torque of 30 Nm.

16
• Place the differential in its seating using tool 95973266 (Figure 1) and tighten the differential cover's
fastening screws to a torque of 30 Nm (Figure 2).

17
• Fit the prescribed tool 95973266 into the seat for the right-hand flange shaft.
Lock the fastening tool for the dial gauge 900026900.

• Reset the dial gauge plunger in position with the mark on the tool, which corresponds to the crown outer
diameter.

18
• Rotate the tool (Figure 1).and check that the backlash falls within the prescribed values. (Figure 2).

N.B.
If the backlash measured is not correct, adjust the spacer thickness keeping the preload conditions
for the differential bearings stable.

19
Checking the crown wheel and pinion impression

• Apply red lead paint to the teeth of the crown wheel.

• Insert the differential into its housing using tool 95973266.

• Fit the differential cover tightening the fastening screws to the torque of 30 Nm.

20
• Fit the prescribed tool 95973266 into the seat for the right-hand flange shaft.
• Have the differential perform some revolutions in a clockwise and anticlockwise direction.

• Remove the differential cover and extract the differential with the prescribed tool 95973266.

21
• Check that the impression on the crown teeth is three quarters the width of each tooth side, both on the
pulling (Figure 1) and on the releasing side (Figure 2).

N.B.
The distance between the inner edge of the crown wheel tooth and the beginning of the impression
must range from 5 to 8 mm.

22
• If the preceding conditions are not met, the spacers' thickness must be modified according to the logics
displayed , keeping the prescribed backlash and bearing preload conditions.

Measuring the pre-load for the pinion taper roller bearings

• Place inner roller track on the checking plane (1) and set the case equipped with outer track on it (2).

23
• Check that the case lies evenly on the resting surface (Figure 1 and 2).
• In this position, reset the dial gauge.

24
• Measure the distance T1 between the bearing holder case surface and the inner ring (Figura 1 e 2).

25
• Verify that the values taken are correct by checking the flatness of the bearing inner ring.

• Place the lay shaft equipped with taper roller bearing on the checking plane.

26
• Check the flatness of the outer ring (Figure 1 and 2).

27
• Measure the distance R1 between the surfaces of the outer and inner bearing rings (Figure 1 and 2).

28
• Considering a bearing preload of 0.03 mm, the thickness S1 of the spacer to be positioned between the
taper roller bearings is:

Fitting the bearings and checking the pinion rolling torque

• Fit the inner ring of the front taper roller bearing using the press equipped with the prescribed tubular
punch 900026450.

29
• Onto the lay shaft place the outer ring of the front taper roller bearing (1), the taper roller bearing spacer
(2) (Figure 1), the bearing holder case (3) and the rear taper roller bearing (4) (Figure 2).

30
• Bring the components flush with the press equipped with the prescribed tubular punch 900026450.

• Fit a new ring nut onto the lay shaft.

31
• Fix the retaining plate of the prescribed tool 95973257 in a vice and mount the lay shaft aligning the
flange ridges with the notches in the ring nut.

• To keep the shaft in this position, fix the bearing holder case with the screw supplied.

32
• Apply the prescribed tool 95973247 onto the end of the lay shaft and tighten the ring nut to the torque of
300 Nm.

• Remove the lay shaft from the tool. Lock the bearing case in a vice suitably protecting the contact
surfaces.

33
• After having engaged tool 95973247 (Figure 1), rotate the shaft using the prescribed torque wrench
FACOM R.250°A, and check that the rolling torque falls between the prescribed values (Figure 2).

34
Pinion positioning

• Reset the dial gauge on a checking plane.

Measure the distance J (Figure 1) between the ground plane on the pinion head and the resting surface
of the front taper roller bearings' internal race (Figure 2).

35
• Considering the deviation marked on the pinion head (Figure 1), calculate the distance P1 between the
taper roller bearing surface plane and the differential axle (Figure 2).

36
• Place the lay shaft on an x block and measure the distance H (Figure 1) between the pinion head surface
(Figure 2) and the resting surface of the bearing case (Figure 3) on the differential housing.

37
• The deviation from the theoretical distance of 75,50 mm must be marked on the pinion head.

38
• Thus the actual distance between the pinion head and differential axis is:

39
• To measure the thickness of the spacer S2 to be inserted between the bearing case and the differential
housing calculate the following: (Figure 1):

N.B.
Z is printed on the differential housing (Figure 2).

40
• Using a bore-meter measure the diameter d of the side cover's seat on the differential housing.

• Fit the lay shaft onto the differential housing, including the spacer for preloading the pinion's taper roller
bearings.
• Reset the dial gauge 900026510 to 2mm on a checking plane, positioning it on the bushing 900026500.

41
• Rest the bushing 900026500 including the dial gauge 900026510 onto the pinion head and read the
deviation M.

• In order to determine the actual positioning of the taper roller bearing in relation to the differential axle,
carry out the following procedure:

42
• In order to obtain the correct positioning of the pinion in relation to the differential axle, this must be:

IMPORTANT
If this does not prove correct, increase or reduce the thickness of the spacer in order to obtain this
condition.

43
Measuring the seeger ring thickness for positioning the Ist and IInd gear synchroniser

• Fit the seeger ring (Figure 1) orientating the bevelled side towards the roller cage (Figure 2).

44
• Fit the first and second speed synchronizer hub using the punch for the prescribed tool 95973262.

45
• Insert the pinion positioning spacer under the bearing case and rest it on the checking plane base.
• Measure the distance between the spacer surface (Figure 1) and the synchronizer hub (Figure 2), the
value must be (Figure 3):

46
N.B.
If the measured value does not correspond to the prescribed one, adjust the seeger ring thickness
until it reaches the reference measurement.

47
Measuring the spacer thickness for IInd gear end float

• With the synchronizer and seeger ring fitted, measure the distance M between the synchronizer hub and
the fifth speed gear using gauged blocks (Figure 1).

N.B.
The blocks must rest on the surface of the synchronizer hub ledge and not on the protrusion of the
seeger ring as this would distort the measurement.

48
• Using a micrometer, measure the thickness N of the second speed gear hub (Figure 1 and 2).

49
• To obtain the thickness of the shouldering ring calculate the following:

• Remove the synchronizer and the seeger ring and heat the lay shaft in a kiln.
N.B.
Put the shouldering ring in the oven at a temperature of 140°G for at least 20 minutes.
• Fit the shoulder onto the shaft with the side with notches turned towards the double gear.
N.B.
Apply a load (10,000 kg) for at least 2 minutes and let the shaft cool down.

50
• Bring the entire unit flush with the punch of the prescribed tool AV3262.

Measuring the spacer for gear set locking

• Using the micrometer, measure the thickness Q of the spacer.

51
• Fit the bushing (1) so that it rests on the first and second speed synchronizer hub and install the seeger
ring in the specific seat (2).

52
• Using the gauged blocks measure the distance O between the bushing edge and the seeger ring (Figure
1 and 2).
• To obtain the thickness of the shouldering fifth wheel, the thickness of the roller bearing inner track and
the prescribed value for the roller bearing P (Figure 1) and float must be deducted from the distance
measured (Figure 3).

53
54
GEARBOX CONTROL ADJUSTMENT

• Present instruction is applicable on cars that feature the gearbox controls p/n 198245 (Spyder GT)
and p/n 198242 (Coupé GT) (from assembly number 10256) onwards

• Hold firmly the gearshift lever in neutral by mean of tool p/n 900026260.
• Check that the axis-to-axis dimension between the ball joints of lever corresponds to 76 ± 0,5 mm.

1
Adjusting the gearshift wire

• Disconnect the cable from bracket (A) and from the ball joint of rocker (B).
• Connect the head of the cable to the bracket.
• Open the linking block (C) and connect the plastic (D) end to the ball joint of the rocker.
• Let the internal spring compensate the freeplay of the cable then close the linking block.

2
Adjusting the gears selection

• Disconnect the cable from bracket (A) and from the ball joint of rocker (B).
• Connect the head of the cable to the bracket.
• Open the linking block and connect (C) the plastic end (D) to the ball joint of the rocker.

• Hang a weight heavy 3.5 – 4.0 kg about to the ball joint of the rocker and let it droop from the spacer
bar (A) of the exhaust, with a wire so that the freeplay of the system will be compensated. Then
close the linking block.

3
TIGHTENING TORQUES

Description Torque Product

Main shaft ring nut and check-nut 100 Nm LOCTITE 242

Front main shaft ring nut 100 Nm

Main shaft shouldering ring nut 70 Nm LOCTITE 242

Ring nut fastening lay shaft tapered roller bearings 300 Nm

Bearing holder case fastening screws 30 Nm LOCTITE 270

Front cover nuts 30 Nm

Front cover stud bolts 30 Nm

Lubrication nozzle fastening screws 10 Nm LOCTITE 510

Bearing retaining plate hexagonal-head screws 30 Nm LOCTITE 270

Bearing retaining plate socket-head screws 26 Nm LOCTITE 270

Pump driving pin 27 Nm

Oil pump fastening screws 8 Nm

Gearbox/differential housing fastening nuts 30 Nm

Differential housing side cover fastening screws 30 Nm

Bushing fastening screw 8 Nm LOCTITE 242

Screw fastening nuts for cover with control rod 8 Nm LOCTITE 270

Oil pump fastening screws 8 Nm

Differential crown wheel fastening screws 70 Nm LOCTITE 270

Rocker lever fastening screw 49 Nm

Gearbox rocker lever fastening nut 24 Nm

Nut for fastening counterweight on gearshift lever 7.4 Nm

Nut fastening bushing to gearbox 130 Nm

Screw fastening rubber bushing to rear underframe 50 Nm

1
 Description Torque Product

Screw fastening wiring retaining bracket to gearbox 7,4 Nm

Nut for fastening exhaust extension support

24 Nm
brackets to gearbox

Union for oil coil lines to gearbox 18 Nm

Nut fastening housing to tunnel 17 Nm

Rear screw fastening housing to tunnel 17 Nm

Screw fastening electronically-controlled kit to

24 Nm
gearbox m8x18
Screw fastening electronically-controlled kit to
32 Nm
gearbox m8x30

Screw fastening upper bracket to actuator 24 Nm

Screw fastening lower bracket to actuator 24 Nm

Screw fastening lower actuator bracket to

49 Nm
differential housing
Nut fastening upper actuator bracket to gearbox
24 Nm
housing
Screw fastening electronically-controlled actuator
7,4 Nm
cover to gearbox

Flanged screw fastening starter motor 24 Nm

Nuts fastening outlet supporting brackets to gearbox 25 Nm

Flywheel fastening screws 83 Nm

Clutch assembly retaining screws 18 Nm

Clutch housing locknuts 26 Nm

Starting motor locknuts 26 Nm

Transmission s heft/clutch housing locknuts 70 Nm

Fastening nuts for transmission shaft-gearbox unit 70 Nm

Rollbar fastening nuts 24 Nm

Fastening screws for front modular cross member 24 Nm

Rear cross member fastening nuts 24 Nm

2
TOOLKIT

Specific equipment

Description Pieces Code

Clutch flywheel locking tool 1 900026240

Clutch centring shaft 1 900026250

Tool for checking electronically-controlled gearbox oil level 1 900026350

Clutch thrust bearing spacer 1 900026930

Manual accelerator for clutch balancing 1 900026950

Extracting tool 1 95972714 AV2714

Extracting tool pins 2 900026400

Toolkit for fitting grommet 2 900026410

Toolkit for fitting gearbox shafts-assemblies 5 900026420

Wrench for fastening main shaft ring nut and check-nut 1 95973245 AV3245

Wrench for fastening main shaft shouldering ring 1 95973246 AV3246

Wrench for lay shaft bearing retaining ring nut 1 95973247 AV3247

Shaft-rod assembly centring screws with forks 1 900026430

Toolkit for removing/fitting main shaft 4 900026440

Toolkit for fitting twin gearings and bearings on lay shaft 4 900026450

Torque tool for tightening lay shaft ring nut 1 95973257 AV3257

Tool for fitting roller bearing outer ring 1 95973259 AV3259

Tool for removing/fitting gearbox housing bearing 2 900026460

Tool for fitting 1st - 2nd speed synchroniser hub and spacer 1 92973262 AV3262

Tool for fitting various parts on lay shaft 1 95973263 AV3263

Tool for fitting ball bearing onto main shaft 1 900026470

Tool for mechanical gearbox control adjustment 1 900026260

1
 Description Pieces Code

Toolkit for fitting bearing and bushing on middle plate 4 900026480

Pinion clearance checking tool 1 95973266 AV3266

Tool for fitting ball bushing 1 95973267 AV3267

Punch for fitting plug (∅ 14mm) 1 95973268 AV3268

Tool for positioning gearshift control lever on rod 1 95973271 AV3271

Synchroniser extracting tool 1 95973272 AV3272

Extracting tool for 3rd - 4th speed synchroniser on main shaft 1 900026490

Bushing with bearing seat 1 95973274 AV3274

Tool for fitting ball bearing outer ring on differential cover 2 95973275 AV3275

Tool for fitting bearing on differential axle-shaft with flange,

2 95973276 AV3276
right-hand side

Tool for fitting differential tapered bearings 2 95923278 AV3278

Union for gearbox pressing 1 95973283 AV3283

Tool for checking container between bevel gear pair pinion

1 90026500
and bearing seat

Toolkit for fitting synchroniser components 3 95976121 AM106121

Tool for locking differential 1 95976628 AM106628

Tool for checking distance between pinion and bearing seat 1 900026510

Tool for fitting front cover oil seal 1 900026760

Tool for tightening main shaft front ring nut 1 900026770

Tool for extracting reverse gearing 1 900026780

Bracket for gearbox vertical hooking 1 900026790

Tool for removing thrust bearing 1 900026800

Extracting tool for gearbox housing 1 900026810

2
 Description Pieces Code

Crescent-shaped tool for removal of gearbox gears 1 900026820

Punch for fitting plug (∅ 8mm) 1 900026830

Gearbox vertical support for trestle 1 900026840

Front cover oil scraper guard 1 900026850

Tool for removing synchroniser gearing on main shaft 1 900026860

Tool for removing front cover oil seal 1 900026870

Tool for tightening rear ring nuts on main shaft 1 900026880

Tool for fitting left-hand side differential housing bearing 1 900026890

Tool for fastening dial gauge in order to check pinion-crown

1 900026900
wheel clearance

3
Standard toolkit

Article Description Manufacturer

USAG 454N/2 Extracting tool with arms

USAG 454N/3 Extracting tool with arms

USAG 468 S11 Bushing extracting tool

USAG 472A/3 Bearing extracting tool USAG

USAG 468/2 Bearing extracting tool

468A/7 Accessory part for bearing extracting tool USAG 468/2

Controlled tightening electric torque wrench:

USAG 815 F
End of scale: 250 Nm
CORADE S.p.A.
Press via Pietro Toselli, 81
Item 154
Capacity: 10,000 Kg 50144 (FI)
Tel. 055 32271

ZO-PW 470 Calibrated blocks

460 Series Electronic dial gauge kit ATS FAAR

Via Camporicchio, 1
Working length: 500 mm 20060 Vignate (MI)
Item 5184TC500 Reading: 1-50 mm Tel. 02 95360013
Precision: 0.05 mm r.a.

F250 Forced ventilation oven

4
MECHANICAL GEARBOX LEVER HOUSING

Detaching the gearbox lever housing

• Remove the mechanical gearbox lever boot.

Mechanical gearbox lever covering

• Disconnect the reverse gear connector.

• Remove the transmission shaft.

Clutch removal

1
Remove the heat shield by undoing the fastening screws.

• Undo the two front screws fastening the gearbox lever housing.

2
• Undo the rear fastening screw of the gearbox lever housing.

• Remove the gearbox lever housing from the seating.

3
• Use a screwdriver to slide out the two gearbox control wires.

Reattaching the gearbox lever housing.

• Connect the two gearbox control wires.

4
• Relocate the gearbox lever housing.

• Tighten the rear screw and nut to a torque of 17 Nm.

5
• Tighten the two front nuts to a torque of 17 Nm.

• Adjust the gearbox control wires.

Gearbox control adjustment

• Remount the heat shield below the transmission shaft, tightening the fastening screws.

6
• Fit the transmission shaft.
Reattaching the clutch

• Working in the engine compartment, connect the reverse gear connector.

• Mount the manual gearbox lever boot.

Mechanical gearbox lever covering

7
MAIN EARTH LOCATION - M138 SPYDER

• Figure no. 1: Battery master switch earth.

• Figure no. 2: F1 wiring and longitudinal earth.

• Figure no. 3: Stranded earth wire for air bag ECU.

• Figure no. 4: Earth for RH, LH soft top wiring.

• Figure no. 5: Longitudinal wiring and Boge earth.

• Figure no. 6: A.B.S. wiring earth.

• Figure no. 7: Engine compartment wiring earth.

• Figure no. 8: Earth from engine to chassis.

• Figure no. 9: Earth for dashboard wiring and A.C. system cable bundle.

• Figure no. 10: Earth for dashboard wiring - injection- A.C. system.

• Figure no. 11: Earth for LHD dashboard wiring.

• Figure no. 12: Earth for RHD dashboard wiring.

• Figure no. 13: Ignition coil earth.

• Figure no. 14: F1 gearbox earth.

• Figure no. 15: Earth for F1 ECU wiring.

• Figure no. 16 : Earth for IT Node bracket

1
Figure no. 1
• BATTERY MASTER SWITCH EARTH (15 Nm).
• Position: Luggage compartment, RH side.

Figure no. 2
• F1 WIRING EARTH (15 Nm).
• Position : Luggage compartment, RH side.

2
Figure no. 3
• STRANDED EARTH WIRE FOR AIR BAG ECU (15 Nm).
• Position: Passenger compartment central tunnel.
• N.B.: The black cable is available only in the RHD version (dashboard cable earth).

Figure no. 4
• EARTHS FOR RH - LH SOFT TOP WIRING (15 Nm).
• Position: Soft top compartment.

3
Figure no. 5
• LONGITUDINAL WIRING EARTH (15 Nm).
• Position : Luggage compartment, LH side.

Figure no. 6
• A.B.S. WIRING EARTH (15 Nm).
• Position: Luggage compartment, LH side.

4
Figure no. 7
• ENGINE COMPARTMENT WIRING EARTH (15 Nm).
• Position: Engine compartment, RH side.

Figure no. 8
• ENGINE EARTH.
• 1- Position: Clutch housing RH side (60 Nm).
• 2- Position: RH side underbody (15 Nm).

5
Figure no. 9
• DASHBOARD WIRING EARTH, A.C. UNIT CABLE BUNDLE AND POWER WINDOW KEYBOARD (15
Nm).
• Position: Passenger compartment, tunnel RH side.

Figure no. 10
• EARTH FOR DASHBOARD WIRING, A.C. SYSTEM AND INJECTION (15 Nm).
• Position: Passenger compartment, RH side on fire protection shield.

6
Figure no. 11
• LHD DASHBOARD WIRING EARTHS (15 Nm).
• Position: LH side passenger compartment, under dashboard.

Figure no. 12
• RHD DASHBOARD WIRING EARTHS (15 Nm).
• Position : RH side passenger compartment, under dashboard.

7
Figure no. 13
• IGNITION COIL EARTHS (25 Nm).
• Position: Engine compartment rear side, near the oil pressure sensor.

Figure no. 14
• EARTHS ON GEARBOX (10 Nm).
• Position: Gearbox LH side.

8
Figure no. 15
• EARTH FOR F1 GEARBOX ECU WIRING.
• Position: RH side luggage compartment.

Figure n° 16
• Earth for IT Node bracket
• Position: Central tunnel, LH side

9
ALARM SYSTEM KIT REPLACEMENT

Immobilizer and alarm system aerial ECU

• Unscrew the two fastening screws - located behind the steering wheel - on the steering column stalk half
bearings.

• Undo the five screws and remove the steering column cover.

1
• Detach the two alarm system aerial connectors.

• Slide the aerial out of the ignition key block.

2
• Remove the immobilizer ECU by unscrewing the two fastening nuts.

Hyperfrequency sensors

• Working on the upper edge of the windshield, unscrew the two bushings centering the soft top.

3
• Unscrew the five fastening screws to remove the upper trim panel.

• Unscrew the four fastening screws to remove the sun visors on both sides.
Unscrew the five screws fastening the lower trim panel.

• Remove the front light.

Front ceiling light

4
• Remove the lower trim panel.

• Working on the side column, remove the trim panel on both sides of the vehicle, undoing the two
fastening screws.

5
• Detach the connectors for the hyperfrequency sensors and remove them by unscrewing the two
fastening screws for each sensor.

Alarm system ECU and siren and anti-lift sensor

• Working in the luggage compartment, remove the spare wheel support shelf.

6
• Detach the fastening buttons on the left-hand side panel of the luggage compartment and remove the
panel.

• Disconnect the two connectors on the alarm system ECU and extract it by removing the two fastening
nuts.

7
• Detach the connector on the alarm siren and remove it by unscrewing the fastening screw.

• Detach the connector for the lifting prevention sensor and remove it by undoing the two fastening
screws.

For refitting, follow the above procedures in reverse order.

8
CHECK FOR CORRECT ALARM TRIGGER OPERATION

Observe the following procedure for controlling correct operation of the alarm trigger:
1. Check that the vehicle windows are open.
2. Activate the alarm system by remote control.
3. Wait for 10s for the system to stabilize.
4. Put a hand into the cockpit and move it in a horizontal direction along the longitudinal axis of the
cockpit and parallel to the ground; be sure to cover the whole area of the open front window, The
correct indication of an intrusion is signalled by a double flash of the direction indicators.
5. Wait for 10s and repeat the procedure outlined in point 4 on the other side of the vehicle.
6. To check for excessive sensitivity, make a sample test by passing a metallic strip (about 50 cm x 50
cm) around the glassed surface of the vehicle, including the top if the vehicle is a sports car. Pass
the metal strip at a distance corresponding to that at which another vehicle or a pedestrian might
pass, or imagine a tilting garage door closing around the vehicle. The alarm must not emit any signal
in these cases.
These operations must be done within 25s from activation of the alarm system to prevent triggering of the
siren.
At each flash of the headlights, indicating a triggering of the alarm, the 25s timer is reset and a fresh testing
period commences.
The alarm system is completely active after 25s from the last direction indicator flash. The active state is
signalled by a different flashing of the LED on the instrument panel.
IDENTIFICATION OF ALARM MEMORIES FOR THE METASYSTEM M826 ALARM SYSTEM

If alarms have gone off during operation, when the alarm system is deactivated by remote control, the LED
on the instrument panel indicates the alarms as follows:

One LED blip Passenger compartment protection alarm

Two LED blips Anti-lift sensor alarm
Three LED blips Door alarm
Four LED blips Front lid/rear lid alarm
Five LED blips Ignition key alarm

When more than one alarm goes off, a sequence is activated, with pauses between single alarms of 3s.
The alarm memory is reset by turning the key to ON or when it is activated by remote control.
PROGRAMMING A NEW KEY

To program a new key, the following are needed: the electronic code (grey card), the old keys and obviously
the new keys.

• Connect the SD2 tester in "link to PC" mode, immobilizer ECU, "spare parts" section.
• Follow the steps as advised and in particular:
1. enter the electronic code;
2. run a key-on/key-off cycle with the original keys;
3. the new keys are programmed symply leaving them inserted in the switch, without carrying out a
key-on cycle.
4. to end the procedure, reply "no" when a further key is requested.
DETACHING – REFITTING D-BOX

(M.Y. 2004)

• Move the front seats as far forwards as possible.

• Remove the central subwoofer.
• Remove the rear shield trim panel.
• Detach the D-BOX electric power supply connection (1).
• Detach the electric aerial cable connection linking the D-BOX to the NIT (2).
• Detach the electric aerial cable connection linking the D-BOX to the rear aerial amplifier (3).
• Detach the electric aerial cable connection linking the D-BOX to the front aerial amplifier (4).
• Remove the D-BOX by sliding it out its seat in the direction indicated by the arrow (5).

1
DETACHING – REFITTING CLOTHES HOOK ON FRONT SEAT

(M.Y. 2004)

• Undo the fastening screw (1) and remove the clothes hook (2).

1
DETACHING – REFITTING ARMREST UNIT

(M.Y. 2004)

• Open the pocket change tray compartment cover, located on the armrest unit (1).
• Undo the front screws on the pocket change tray compartment (2).
• Remove the rubber holder (3).

• Undo the rear screws on the pocket change tray compartment (1).

1
• Remove the pocket change tray compartment (1).

• Undo the fastening screws on the armrest unit (1).

2
• Move the front seats as far back as possible.
• Release the passenger compartment floor mat tab (1), so that the lateral fastening screw on the armrest
unit (1) is practicable.
• Undo the lateral fastening screw on the pocket change tray unit (2).
• Perform the same operations on the side opposite the armrest unit too.

• Undo the retaining buttons to release the handbrake lever boot (1).

3
• Remove the armrest unit from its seat following the direction indicated by the arrow

N.B.: Take care when carrying out the operation not to damage the dashboard trim panel or any of
the other nearby parts

4
• Detach the electric connections (1), (2), (3), (4) and the aerial connections (5) and (6) on the NIT

• Detach the electric connections on the electric mirror control unit, and also those on the top
opening/closing control and the cigar lighter/power socket.
• Remove the armrest unit from its seat.

5
DETACHING – REFITTING HANDBRAKE LEVER MY 04

(MY 2004)

• Remove the armrest unit.

• Working on the driver's side, detach the 'handbrake on' switch electric connection (1) and unscrew the
fastening nut (2).

1
• Free the cable from the handbrake lever (1).
• Working on the passenger side, unscrew the fastening nut (2) and remove the handbrake lever (3).

2
DETACHING – REFITTING FRONT AERIAL AMPLIFIER MY 04

(MY 2004) Detaching

• Remove the right-hand front door pillar trim panel.

• Detach the electric amplifier connection with the aerial on the windscreen (1).
• Unscrew the amplifier fastening nut (2).

1
• Detach the electric amplifier connection with the D-BOX (1).
• Detach the aerial amplifier electricity supply connection (2).

• Remove the aerial amplifier from its seat.

Refitting

• Fit the aerial amplifier by following the procedure outlined before in reverse order.
• Before proceeding to refit the front right-hand trim panel, check the aerial amplifier is working correctly,
proceeding as follows:
• Tune the radio in the AM mode.
• If the radio receives the signal, then the amplifier is working correctly.

2
DETACHING – REFITTING REAR AERIAL AMPLIFIER

(MY2004)

Detaching
• Remove the rear cover trim panel.
• Detach the electric amplifier connection to the rear aerial on the cover (1).

1
• Detach the electric aerial amplifier connection to the D-BOX (1).
• Unscrew the nut fastening the aerial amplifier.(2)
• Remove the aerial amplifier (3) from its seat.

Refitting

• Fit the aerial amplifier by following the procedure outlined before in reverse order.
• Before proceeding to refit the rear cover trim panel, check the aerial amplifier is working correctly
proceeding as follows:

• Detach the front amplifier.

• Check the radio tunes in normally to the stations selected.
• If the radio is working in the standard fashion, then the aerial amplifier is working correctly

2
YAW SENSOR

(M.Y. 2003)

The Sensor (1) is part of the ABS/ASR/MSP braking system, which is linked to the ABS 5.7 ECU.
The dashboard wiring has been integrated with a connector (2) which is attached to the yaw sensor, and with
a single earth for the airbag system, that is fixed together with the stranded earth wire (3).Also the
longitudinal cable earth must be connected into the earth bracket (4).

1
On the longitudinal cable, a two-way connector has been replaced with a three-way one, so as to provide
more space for the soft top defroster's cable. The connector must be secured on the clip (5).

The modification on the tunnel acoustic insulation lies in the removal of a piece of soundproofing material, in
the point shown in the figure. This allows the earth bracket to be inserted and the yaw sensor to be secured
on the tunnel, in front of the airbag ECU.

2
FUEL SUPPLY DISTRIBUTION
CAMBIOCORSA ROBOTIZED GEARBOX
ENGINES FUEL ELECTRONIC MANAGEMENT
ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS - DESCRIPTION

A002 12V starter motor

A003 Battery positive
A004 Branch terminal board
B001 Dashboard branching ecu (CPL)
B004 Fuses ecu (MAXI FUSE)
C004 Fuel tank earth
C005 Coils earth
C006 Injection system earth
C013 Luggage compartment wiring earth
C014 Robotized gearbox node earth
C018 Gearbox oil motor pump’s earth
C019 Gearbox solenoid valves’ earth
C025 Engine compartment wiring earth
D001 Dashboard/passenger compartment wiring connections
D004 Front door wiring connection
Passenger compartment/luggage compartment wiring
D018
connection
Luggage compartment wiring/F1 robotized gearbox cable
D025
bundle connection
D038 Injection/ engine compartment wiring connection
D054 OBD connection
D058 Dashboard /Injection wiring connection
D059 Passenger compartment/fuel tank cable bundle connection
I001 Steering column switch
I002 Ignition switch
I018 Reverse gear engagement control set
I023 Electronically controlled gearbox lever
I034 Gearshift control cluster on steering wheel
J008 Clutch pedal switch
J015 Inertia switch
J016 Stop indicator switch
K005 Detonation sensor (cylinders 1-2)
K006 Detonation sensor (cylinders 3-4)
K007 Detonation sensor (cylinders 5-6)
K008 Detonation sensor (cylinders 7-8)
K009 Stage sensor
K010 Front lambda sensor
K011 Rear lambda sensor
K012 Air flow meter
K013 Stage variator
K014 Engine rpm sensor
K015 Engine water temperature sensor
K018 Pressure gauge
K030 Accelerator pedal sensor
K034 F1 robotized gearbox acceleration sensor
K037 Pressure sensor on clutch
K038 Clutch sensor
K044 Gearbox sensor
K045 Pressure transducer
L001 Air conditioner compressor electromagnet
L002 Secondary air solenoid valve
L003 Anti-evaporation system safety solenoid valve
L009 Clutch solenoid valve
L010 Gear selection solenoid valve, robotized gearbox
L011 Gear engagement solenoid valve, robotized gearbox
M005 Engine control node (NCM)
M018 Robotized gearbox node (NCR)
M019 Luggage compartment ecu (CVB)
M036 Immobilizer ECU
N001 Exhaust air pump relay
N002 First speed fan relay
N003 Second speed fan relay
N005 F1 robotized gearbox pump relay
P006 Front door lock motor
P013 Fuel motor pump
P014 Motor driven throttle
P016 Engine cooling electric fan
P017 Exhaust air pump
P030 Gearbox oil motor pump
P040 Fuel motor pump with integrated level sensor
P042 Diagnosis electric pump anti-evaporation system
Q004 Engine cooling electric fan's resistor
Q005 Fuel pump resistor
Q008 Gear selection/engagement potentiometer
T004 Electro-injector
T005 Coil
Z005 Fuel supply system protection diode
$101 left-hand side
$102 right-hand side
$103 cylinder 1
$104 cylinder 2
$105 cylinder 3
$106 cylinder 4
$107 cylinder 5
$108 cylinder 6
$109 cylinder 7
$110 cylinder 8
$115 driver's side
$125 front
$126 rear
DASHBOARD WIRING
FRONT DOOR WIRING DRIVER SIDE
FUEL TANK CABLE BUNDLE
INJECTION WIRING
PASSENGER COMPARTMENT WIRING
LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT WIRING
ROBOTIZED GEARBOX WIRING
ENGINE COMPARTMENT WIRING
DASHBOARD BRANCHING ECU (CPL-B001)
 A
F5 30A Headlight washer timer
F44 30A +30 Driver's seat
F45 30A +30 Passenger's seat
F46 7,5A Passenger's seat heating
F47 7,5A Driver's seat heating
F50 7,5A Air conditioning and ventilation unit
R8 30A Connected devices cut out during ignition
R9 30A Connected devices not cut out during ignition
R17 20A Passenger's seat heating
R18 20A Driver's seat heating
B
F9 10A +87 main relay
F10 15A +87 Lambda sensor main relay , air flow meter
F11 15A +87 main relay for injectors, coils
F28 7,5A A.C. Compressor
F29 15A Horns
F51 10A +15 ABS
R4 20A A.C. Compressor
R5 20A Immobilizer
R6 20A Main injection
R10 20A A.C. Compressor, horns
C
F13 30A Starter motor
F32 10A RH High beam light
F33 10A LH High beam light, warning light
F34 15A Fog lights
F35 15A Left-hand low beam
F36 15A Right-hand low beam, headlight washers inhibitor
switch, manual headlight angle adjuster
R7 30A Starter motor
R11 20A Fog lights
R12 20A High beam lights
R13 20A Low beam lights
 D
F6 10A Headlight washer timer
F7 30A Main injection
F8 7,5A +30 injection
F12 15A +30 ignition switch
F14 5A Air conditioning and ventilation system, navigator
cable bundle, (+15 connected devices cut out during
ignition)
F15 15A Cigarette lighter, radio, engine indic., rear view
mirrors, ceiling light, glove compartment lamp (+15
cut out during ignition)
F17 25A Windshield wiper, windshield wiper washing pumps,
wiper(+15 cut out during ignition)
F18 10A Airbag (+15 connected devices not cut out during
ignition)
F19 5A +15 NCS (+15 connected devices not cut out during
ignition)
F20 7,5A Immobilizer, CAN line interface, navigator cable
bundle instrument(+15 not cut out during ignition)
F21 5A Alarm system, preset for satellite alarm
F22 10A Ceiling lights, ceiling light timer, (electronic) seats ,
luggage compartment and fuel flap opening controls
F23 7,5A ECU for CAN line interface, OBD, Maserati CODE
system, multifuncion display
F24 20A Door locking system
F25 15A Radio, navigator
F26 30A Driver side power windows
F27 30A Passenger side power window
F30 10A +15 light switch, Cruise Control, headlight aiming
ECU (+15 cut out during ignition)
F31 15A Turn signal light blinking
F37 15A +30 IGE ECU
F38 15A +30 IGE ECU
F39 5A IGE ECU, ceiling light timer, light switch (+15
connected devices not cut out during ignition)
F40 10A Stop, clutch
F53 10A Navigator, clock, tunnel display
F70 15A Exhaust bypass solenoid valve
ENGINE CONTROL NODE (NCM- M005)

A
 1 Earth
2 Earth
3 Power supply from main relay
4 Front lambda sensor 2 heater
5 Front lambda sensor 1 heater
6 Rear lambda sensor 2 heater
7 Cylinder 5 coil control 4
8 Cylinder 4 coil control 4
9 -
10 Rear lambda sensor 2 reference earth
11 Rear lambda sensor 2 signal
12 Front lambda sensor 2 reference earth
13 Front lambda sensor 2 signal
14 Front lambda sensor 2 equalizing current
15 Front lambda sensor 2 pumping current
16 Cylinders 3 and 4 detonation sensor
17 -
18 Immobilizer relay
19 Cylinder 5 injector control
20 Cooling fan 1 control input
21 ECU power supply +15 (key)
22 A / C compressor control
23 Power supply from main relay
24 Cylinder 4 injector control
25 Seal control pump
26 Intake air temperature signal
27 Air flow meter reference earth
28 -
29 Air flow meter signal
30 -
31 Cylinders 7 and 8 detonation sensor
32 -
33 Reference earth for accelerator pedal 2 potentiometer
34 Signal for accelerator pedal potentiometer 2
35 Signal for accelerator pedal potentiometer 1
36 Reference earth for accelerator pedal 1 potentiometer
37 Engine speed rate signal for rev. counter
38 Cruise control: acceleration adjustment
39 Closed clutch signal
40 A / C system activation signal
41 -
42 -
43 K diagnosis line
44 Secondary air valve control
45 -
46 Secondary air pump control
47 High speed fan control
48 -
49 -
50 Sensor reference earth
51 Front lambda sensor 1 reference earth
52 Front lambda sensor 1 pumping current
53 Air flow meter power supply
54 -
55 Brake pedal switch signal
56 Stop switch signal
57 Cruise control: deceleration adjustment
58 CAN line (-)
59 -
60 CAN line (+)
61 Cooling fan 2 control input
62 Power supply +30
63 Rear lambda sensor 1 heater
64 Canister purge valve
65 Fuel pump relay (reduced power)
66 Low speed fan control
67 Inertia switch signal
68 Rear lambda sensor 1 reference earth
69 Rear lambda sensor 1 signal
70 Front lambda sensor 1 signal
71 Front lambda sensor 1 equalizing current
72 Stabilized voltage for accelerator pedal potentiometer 2
73 Stabilized voltage for accelerator pedal potentiometer 1
74 -
75 Cruise control restoring
76 Cruise control ON / OFF
77 -
78 -
79 -
80 -
81 -
B
 82 Toothed wheel signal (A)
Stabilized voltage for motor driven throttle potentiometers 1 and
83 2
84 Signal for motor driven throttle 2 potentiometer
85 -
86 Bank timing sensor signal
87 Bank timing sensor signal
88 Cylinder 6 injector control
89 Cylinder 2 injector control
90 Toothed wheel signal (B)
91 Reference earth for throttle 1 and 2 potentiometers
92 Signal for motor driven throttle 1 potentiometer
93 Engine temperature signal
94 Cylinder 6 coil control 1
95 Cylinder 2 coil control 1
96 Cylinder 1 injector control
97 Cylinder 8 injector control
98 Power supply 5V for sensors 1 and 2
99 Detonation sensors reference earth
100 -
101 -
102 Cylinder 1 coil control 1
103 Cylinder 8 coil control 1
104 -
105 Seal check valve
106 Cylinders 1 and 2 detonation sensor signal
107 Cylinders 5 and 6 detonation sensor signal
108 Detonation sensors shield
109 -
110 Cylinder 7 coil control 1
111 Cylinder 3 coil control 1
112 Cylinder 7 injector control
113 Cylinder 3 injector control
114 -
115 Bank 1 timing variator control
116 Fuel pump control 2
117 Motor driven throttle control (-)
118 Motor driven throttle control (-)
119 -
120 Bank 2 timing variator control
121 -
Keys

CABLE COLOURS

A light blue

B white

C orange

G yellow CONNECTOR VIEW - CABLE CONNECTION

H grey

L blue

M brown

N black

O nut-brown

R red

S pink

V green

Z violet
ROBOTIZED GEARBOX NODE (NCR-M018)

1 Ground
2 Ground
3 Output: Gear selection solenoid valve, robotized gearbox
4 -
5 -
6 -
7 -
8 -
9 -
10 -
11 -
12 -
13 -
14 -
15 -
16 -
17 -
18 -
19 -
20 -
21 -
22 -
23 -
24 -
25 -
26 Gearshift control cluster on steering wheel (up)
27 +30
28 +15
29 Output: Gear selection solenoid valve, robotized gearbox
30 Output: Gear selection solenoid valve, robotized gearbox
31 Input: F1 robotized gearbox pump relay
Output: Gear engagement solenoid valve, robotized
32
gearbox
33 C CAN-L
34 Clutch sensor
35 Clutch sensor
36 -
37 -
38 +Gearbox sensor
39 Gear selection/engagement potentiometer
40 Input: Pressure transducer
41 Input: Reverse gear engagement switch
42 Starter motor activation
43 Output: Clutch solenoid valve
Output: Gear engagement solenoid valve, robotized
44
gearbox
45 C CAN-H
46 Clutch sensor
47 Clutch sensor
48 Engine control node (NCM)
49 K diagnosis line
50 +Gearbox sensor
51 Gear selection/engagement potentiometer
52 -
 B

1 -
2 -
3 -
4 -
5 -
6 -
7 -
8 -
9 -
10 -
11 Cambiocorsa robotized gearbox acceleration sensor
12 Input: Pressure sensor on clutch
13 Ground
14 Ground
15 Gearshift control cluster on steering wheel (stand-by)
16 Gearshift control cluster on steering wheel (down)
17 Input: Stop indicator switch (N.A.)
18 -
19 Input: ASR
20 -
+Cambiocorsa robotized gearbox acceleration sensor;
21
+Gear selection/engagement potentiometer
22 Input: Reverse gear engagement control set
23 -
24 +50
25 Input: "Auto"
26 Input: Front door lock motor (driver's side)
+Pressure transducer;
27
+Pressure sensor on clutch
28 -
Keys

CABLE COLOURS

A light blue

B white

C orange

G yellow CONNECTOR VIEW - CABLE CONNECTION

H grey

L blue

M brown

N black

O nut-brown

R red

S pink

V green

Z violet
LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT ECU (CVB– M019)
 A
F41 30A Heated rear window
F42 7,5A External defogging units
F43 20A Fuel pumps
F52 30A Radio amplifier
R14 30A Heated rear window
R15 - Fuel pump 1 speed
R16 - Fuel pump 2 speed
R23 30A Luggage compartment lid opening alarm
B
F16 7,5A Reverse gear
F48 30A Fuel tank flap
F49 25A Luggage compartment lid
F56 15A Power socket
R19 30A Fuel tank flap
R20 30A Luggage compartment lid
R21 20 Reverse gear
Luggage compartment lid and fuel tank flap
R22 -
relay cut out