Cornwall

Gavin Symonds tackling the sustained moves of The Black Traverse (6c+)
- page 144 - at Nare Head, Cornwall. Photo: Mike Robertson.
 136 Cornwall
The isolated, sleepy county of Cornwall has always been renowned for its folklore, its
Swanage

alluring coastal towns, its ales and its big, atmospheric and traditional sea cliffs. For the
deep water soloist there is surprisingly little to get excited about considering how much
coastline there is, but the good news is the discovery of the DWS's of Nare Head, close
to Truro, and the development of the friendly little crags of the Lizard peninsula. Although
Lulworth

Cornwall may never be a major player in the great game of DWS, the region is highly
recommended for a visit, especially if you combine it with some of the great trad sea-cliff
routes.
Portland

Approach
Most folk approach using the combi-
nation of the M5, the A303 and the
Devon

20 miles A30
A30; all of these roads arrive at
Exeter, where a spin along the A30, A39
Bodmin
through Okehampton and Launceston,
Plymouth
Cornwall

brings you down to Bodmin. After A390 A38

Bodmin, continue on the A30 and A30
St Austell
then turn south on the A3076, to
Truro A3078
reach Truro. This is the point where
Pembroke

the directions for Nare Head start. Penzance

A394 Nare Head
For the crags of the Lizard, continue
south-west and pick up the A394, Helston
which takes you to the town of
Scotland

Helston. This colourful town is on the

doorstep of the Lizard peninsula, and The Lizard
a short drive down the A3083 will
Rest of UK

bring you to the approaches for both

the Diamond Wall and Bass Point.

Accommodation and Food

Portugal

Cornwall's south coast is well catered for, both with accommodation and camping possibili-
ties. Expect a wealth of campsites in the immediate vicinity, with everything from appealing,
rudimentary sites, right through to the ubiquitous, family-orientated caravan parks.
Costa Blanca

The Cornwall Tourist Board can be reached on 01872 322900 and www.
cornwalltouristboard.co.uk
At the Lizard, Henry's Campsite (01326 290596) comes recommended, with grassy
terraces, a wickedly nice view and showers. Food-lovers need look no further than the
Mallorca

charming Lizard village with its famous pasty shop, although a 15 minute drive to Helston
will reveal further digs, plenty of chip shops, plus numerous cafes and supermarkets.
If you're visiting the more isolated Nare Head, you'll need to drive a little further for your
Rest of Europe

requirements - look out for a number of accommodation and camping possibilities in the
region of Tresillian and Tregony, with the large bustling town of Truro offering more in the
way of sustained action.
For beaches within shooting distance of the crags, highly recommended is Kynance Cove
Australia

- a spectacular series of west-facing beaches set amongst the Lizard's towering sea cliffs,
and Carne Beach just west of Nare Head - the perfect chilling venue after a hard day at the
crag!
Rest of World
Gavin Symonds on the deceptively difficult Ong-Bak (7b+), the hardest route in the area
- page 145 - on the Big Blue Face at Nare Head, Cornwall. Photo: Mike Robertson.
 138 The Lizard
The Lizard, The dramatic coastline of the Lizard,
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mainland Cornwall. Photo: Mike Robertson.

Britain's most
southerly
point, is
Lulworth

renowned
for its warm
weather,
Portland

cream teas
and the
infamous
Floral Dance,
Devon

held in the
main town of
Helston. Also
in Helston
Cornwall

is the Blue
Anchor pub;
offered inside
Pembroke

is one of the
UK's finest
ales - 'Spingo', available in three strengths including a drop dead 7.6% variety!
The Lizard has always been a rarely visited outlying venue for trad climbers, despite the
Scotland

amazing diversity of quality rock on the peninsula - the best being the excellent Amphibolite,
a high friction, often vertical rock, covered in good edges and split by many cracks. It's this
rather sexy Amphibolite that provides us with the routes detailed below.
Rest of UK

A massive sortie in 2006 (unsurprisingly, involving a sea kayak!) revealed two small venues
on the Lizard Peninsula that proved ideal for DWS. With a number of routes at a very
steady grade the south-west facing Diamond Wall, and the diminutive region of Bass Point,
Portugal

on the Lizard's southern tip are both worthwhile venues. It would be true to say that A Girl's
Best Friend (4+), on the excellent Diamond Wall, is one of the best easy DWS's in the UK
- this wonderful route features great climbing and perfect rock - all poised above a well-
Costa Blanca

situated deep trench.

About 500m Mullion

Helston
Predannack (4 miles) Dirt Lizard Village
Mallorca

Manor Farm Road

(N.T.) Lloyds
Signal
Station Coastguard
Stiles
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Field SW Coastal Path

Australia

Lizard
Co Village
as
tp Diamond Kynance
at
h Wall Cove
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Lizard Cull Buttress

Diamond Point
Wall Vellan Bass Point
Head 1 km Bass Point
Just about as far south in the UK as you can
go! Jason Porter on the delightful Rangoon
(6a) - page 141 - at Bass Point, the Lizard,
Cornwall. Photo: Mike Robertson.
 140 The Lizard Diamond Wall
Swanage

EG 10 min
Lulworth
Portland
Devon

3 4

Access
2
Cornwall

scramble
1 5
Pembroke
Scotland

Diamond Wall
Rest of UK

A fine buttress in an impressive location, with perfect rock Gear-up Predannack Wollas farm
and scenery. Although the number of climbs is limited, spot
they are well worth seeking out.
Approach - From the A3083, make a turn and pass
through the village of Mullion. Continue towards Mullion
Cove until a left turn towards Predannack Head takes you
Portugal

down to the farm at Predannack Wollas. Park here at the

National Trust car park, jump the stile, and walk down the
hedged path through the fields towards the sea, to gain
the main coastal path at a stile. Turn right and walk some
Costa Blanca

80m, then drop down and left to gain the top of the crag.
Access is from the left or by abseil, and the 'swim-out' is
just 5m.
Conditions and Tides - The south-facing rock here is The Diamond Wall
usually dry and crisp. The sea state is always the main
Mallorca

concern, of course - take a good look at this before

committing to a climb. It's also worth noting that, to skip
across the lower ledges on the left to gain the bottom of
1 The Diamond Traverse . 1sΩ 6a+ S2/3
15m. The mid-height break on the wall is followed in from the
the face, you'll need a neap and not a big spring tide -
left, and provides a ropeless entry to the crag in deep or heavy
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those who prefer the maximum water will have to drop a

seas. The S2/3 is given for the first 3m which are steady and on
rope down and get to the base in that fashion.
solid rock, but over a lower shelf. The route would be most con-
It is also worth noting that the horizontal break-line at
sistently finished via The Stone.
about 13m (at a high neap tide) is essentially the limit
FSA. Mike Robertson 18.6.2006
of the hard climbing on the wall, with all cruxes situated
below this (the cruxes of Cut Diamond and A Girl's Best
2 Cut Diamond . . . . . . 2tsΩ 6b S1
Australia

Friend are dispatched within the first 8m, and the cruxes
of Koh-i-Nor and The Stone are done and dusted before 18m. The left arete gives excellent and very inescapable climbing
13m). If you wish to avoid the higher, easier upper slab, with cool positions. From the holds at the bottom of the face,
leave a 'pull-out' rope in place - this will reduce all the S make strenuous moves up and left on side-pulls almost as far as
the arete. Move up and then slightly right, to gain a flake system
Rest of World

grades.
in light green rock and follow this to an easier finishing (4) groove
in the upper slab.
FSA. Mike Robertson 18.6.2006
 Bass Point The Lizard 141

3 2sΩ
Koh-i-Nor . . . . . . . . . . 6a+ S1

Swanage
18m. A fine bit of climbing. From the starting holds, climb the
face direct. Move slightly left to a fin in a pocket at half-height (a
move right would head towards the 4+) and continue steeply up
to the 13m break. Continue up the slab above at around 4.
5 1sfΩ
The Stone . . . . . . . . 6b+ S2
18m. The right-most route is a slight eliminate, but has some
FSA. Mike Robertson 18.6.2006

Lulworth
excellent, well-positioned moves. The S grade is for the underwa-
ter shelf that sits out to your right/rear, although it would prove
4 A Girl's Best Friend . . . . . . 3Ω 4+ S1 hard to reach that in a normal fall. From the first few moves of
18m. A great line. For those breaking into DWS at the lower A Girl's Best Friend's harder direct start, swing right across the
grades, there are so few available, so put this one on your list. spiky break to gain the thin and technical right-hand face. Climb

Portland
From the start moves, either attack the crack from the high water this boldly on small edges to the 13m break, moving left to finish
mark directly (this is 5/5+), or weave in rightwards from the start more easily.
of Koh-i-Nor (better and easier), to gain the crack. Follow the FSA. Mike Robertson 18.6.2006
crack more steadily all the way to the upper slab, and continue to
the top (the upper slab is about 3).

Devon
FSA. Mike Robertson 18.6.2006

Bass Point
The Lizard's Bass Point is home to the charming Amnesty and The Cull, which cover some classic trad territory. The
two solos detailed here are found a short distance from The Cull, down below the coastguard lookout. Both lines are a

Cornwall
great introductions to DWS at the lower end of the scale, plus they enjoy plenty of water, and are on immaculate rock.
Approach - From parking in Lizard village, take the public footpath/wide track sign-posted for Bass Point. Walk down
to the large white Lloyds signal station building, then briefly follow the coast path to the red painted wall beneath the
coastguard lookout. Drop down the slopes, walking gradually leftwards, to find yourself at the top of the routes.

Pembroke
Conditions and Tides - As with the Diamond Wall, you won't want to be chasing the biggest tides; the sea you need
is around a high neap - especially with Rangoon, which will prove quite inaccessible at a big high tide. Both routes are
fast-drying and have no seepage concerns. There are various ways of gaining the base of the two lines here, most
usually via the gullies. Look for the best method, or take a short rope and a few wires if you're unsure.

Scotland
EA 15 min

Rest of UK
Portugal
Costa Blanca
7
Mallorca
Rest of Europe

6 Jessica Alba . . . . . . . . 2sΩ 5+ S0/1 7 Rangoon . . . . . . . . . . . 2sΩ 6a S1

Australia

9m. The left-hand of the aretes is fun, solid and well-equipped 13m. A cracker! An entry-level solo, with good water all the way.
with water. From the lower ledges on the left, climb out on the Given S1 for the top crux, which feels a little airy, so take a rea-
rising break to gain the prow, and follow it to the final (crux) sonable tide with you. From either the right or the left, traverse to
move. There is a variation possible lower down, where climbing the base of the odd-shaped prow, and climb it direct to the top,
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the line of holds below the rising break will give slightly harder where a tricky mantel may make you squirm (just a little).
climbing at about 6a. See photo on page 139.
FSA. Mike Robertson 12.5.2006 FSA. Mike Robertson 12.5.2006
 142 Nare Head
The deep water soloing of Cornwall's isolated Nare Head was discovered in July 2005,
Swanage

when the author spent nine days paddling a sea kayak from Sidmouth to Falmouth in
search of fresh crags. Nare Head's climbing is actually found 1km east of Nare Head itself,
and features mainly vertical walls offering technical climbing on small edges, mostly based
around the aretes and walls of a sheltered, rectangular zawn. The zawn's entrance faces
Lulworth

south-east, with the Black Tower getting light from dawn to mid-morning; the sun then
swings around to bathe the Big Blue Face in sun from midday onwards.
Nare Head's rock is of volcanic origin, and, although similar in appearance to some of the
Portland

Lizard's rock, is actually known as Greenstone.

The area is not yet fully developed (a small inflatable boat would facilitate a good crop of
further prizes) and there are currently no bird nesting restrictions in place, although August
1st onwards is recommended for a visit, to avoid any unnecessary clashes with the bird
Devon

population.

Approach
Cornwall

The OS map for Truro and Falmouth will Trewartha

help you with the convoluted drive in. On and Truro
SW Coast Path
the A390, some 3 miles east of Truro, is Pennare
Farm
the tiny village of Tresillian. Drive east
Pembroke

out of the village, and follow the A390 Kiberick

Cove
for 2 miles, then take a right turn on the
B3078, signposted to Tregony. Three miles
Nare Head
gets you to Tregony village; continue on
Scotland

the B3078 southwards for a further two

miles, and take the left turn just after the
Esso garage, sign-posted to Veryan and
Rest of UK

Nare Hotel. Follow this small lane for just Nare Head Gull Rock
under a mile, then take a left turn signed
About 500m
to Trewartha. Follow the lane through
Trewartha and go straight on at a cross-
Portugal

roads (marked Carne Beach 1.75 miles). Your last turning is a left, down a tiny, wing mirror-
battering road signed for Nare Head. A further 0.75 mile gets you to the Nare Head and
Kiberick Cove National Trust car park.
Costa Blanca

Walk out of the car park, heading west, on the well-travelled farm trail. After 100m, bear
left, past a cattle trough, into the big, domed field. Follow the left/coastal fence until it dives
left and runs out, and, after a further 80m, you'll see a vague, knobbly ridge appear on the
left slope. After a further 40m, find the new 'path', down through ferns and gorse to head
Mallorca

down the steep ridge, to a gearing-up spot just above where the crag disappears into the
sea. The ridge below continues down to form Nare Head's Big Blue Face. The whole rough
descent traces a line roughly towards the left (east) edge of Gull Rock - the big rocky island
Rest of Europe

laying just off the coast here.

Conditions and Tides

As noted above, this venue is not actually on the headland, and you'll almost certainly
Australia

enjoy a reasonable amount of shelter inside the main, rectangular zawn, especially from the
prevailing westerlies. The tide swing averages around 3m or so, although the water here is
very deep at most tides. Expect a little seepage early and late in the DWS season, particu-
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larly on the more shaded Black Tower.

 Rosen Bay Nare Head 143

Swanage
About 30m
Coast path and car park WG 10 min

Lulworth
Descent ridge

Knobbly ridge

Portland
Line of Old Thumper

Devon
5
4
3
2

Cornwall
6
Rosen Bay

1 The Black Tower The Big

Blue Face

Pembroke
Scotland
Rosen Bay 3 Brahma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Ω 6b S0
Rosen Bay is the big, curved bay found just west of the
11m. This steep line is a harder way to gain the ledge at the top
Black Tower. The climbs are on good rock.
of Old Peculiar. Start as for that route, then swing rightwards to
Approach - The routes detailed below are all found by
gain the overhung prow to the right, and follow it to the ledge.

Rest of UK
scrambling down the long ridge that forms the bay's
FSA. Julian Lines 2.8.2005
western extremity. A few tricky moves (there's gear for
an abseil, should you need it) will get you down to sea
level, at a spacious promontory. The following routes 4 sΩ
Bishop's Finger . . . . . . . . . 5 S0
(except Old Jock's Tunnel) are all gained by heading 11m. The first ascent of this steep, juggy feature was a down-
climb to link the finish of Old Peculiar with the start of Old

Portugal
east, using the Rosen Traverse.
Tides and Conditions - The water depth is rarely Thumper.
a problem but a mid to high tide is ideal. Old Jock's FSA. Mike Robertson 2.8.2005
Tunnel needs crisp conditions for success.
5 Old Thumper . . . . . . 2stΩ 6a S1
Costa Blanca
14m. Brilliant moves; a hearty and out-there voyage up a very
1 Rosen Traverse . . . . . . . . . 1Ω 4 S1 steep, juggy groove. From the base of Bishop's Finger, traverse
17m. This fun little excursion takes you along the slab that rightwards to gain the base of the leaning groove and climb it all
bounds the west side of the bay. Follow the slab, keeping an eye the way to the grass. Exit the long grassy slope with the utmost
on one or two sub-surface rocks, to reach good ledges at the care.
Mallorca

far end. FSA. Mike Robertson 2.8.2005

FSA. Julian Lines, Mike Robertson 2.8.2005

The ledge system at the end of the traverse gives plenty of space 6 Old Jock's Tunnel . . . 3tsΩ 6c+ S1
20m. This wicked route tackles the tunnel that dives all the way
Rest of Europe

to view the following routes. A little bit of planning is required to

find the best way onto and off the routes. through the headland. Amazing climbing, and in a very unlikely
place. You'll need good conditions to get involved. From the
down-climb (as for all the routes above), simply swing north-
2 Old Peculiar . . . . . . . . . . . 1Ω 4+ S1 wards around the steep prow and take a look at the long tunnel
11m. From the ledge system at the end of the Rosen Traverse, in front of you. Climb into the tunnel on the right wall (crux) and
head up and right on the hanging slab. This is followed to a good
Australia

continue on, mainly on the left wall, until further trickiness gets
ledge at the top. you back out into daylight.
FSA. Mike Robertson 2.8.2005 FSA. Julian Lines 2.8.2005
Rest of World
 144 Nare Head The Black Tower

QGJ
Swanage

The Black Tower 10 min

The best routes at Nare Head are located on
the Black Tower which gives excellent face
climbing on good finger-holds.
Approach - The Black Tower's routes are Line of main abseil
Lulworth

reached by abseil from two points by the

gear-up spot on the upper ridge. There are
some good flakes and small outcrops to set
up your rope from. For the first 2 routes,
Portland

abseil down the southerly, open groove. For

the remainder of the Black Tower's routes, set
the rope down the tall corner found above the
right side of the face - this will get you straight
to the accommodating 'inset' ledge at the
bottom right edge of the wall. This small ledge
Devon

(2 people, 3 at a push!) is perfectly situated

for access, sitting just above the high water
mark and not jutting out into the line of fire.
Tides and Conditions - Very deep water.
Cornwall

Mid tide or above is best.

6
Pembroke

1 The Black Traverse

....... 2ftsΩ 6c+ S0
12m. The brilliant and ultra-safe low traverse, start-
ing from either side. If you start from the left, you'll
Scotland

4 5
have a route to do to escape, or simply reverse back! 3
Technical, crimpy and sustained; finger-lickin' good.
See photo on page 134.
FSA. Mike Robertson and Julian Lines 2.8.2005
Rest of UK

2
2 Cafe Noir . . . 1fΩ 6b+ S1
14m. The crux on this shapely little groove is actually
1 Hidden ledge
getting across to it from the left, which is also the
hardest single move on The Black Traverse. The lower
Portugal

groove itself is S0. Beyond its end, you'll probably

need to add an S grade or so for a left-hand exit, or
give your fingers a further workout if you continue
higher/rightwards above water.
Costa Blanca

FSA. Julian Lines 2.8.2005

3 Night Shift . . 2fΩ 6b+ S1 5 Dolphins Always Make Me Cry

14m. Superb and sustained climbing up the left-most diagonal
twin flake-line. It's not as high as the next route, keeping below 2sΩ
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6b+ S1/2
Mallorca

and parallel to that line all the way. The hardest moves may well 16m. This excellent line traces a path, parallel and to the right
be on The Black Traverse. From the abseil ledge, climb up into of Lemoria, finishing on the clean-cut square ledge just left of
the flake-line and follow it all the way to the left edge of the face. the narrow top face. Climb up the very edge/arete of the lower
Move up and left with care to reach the big ledge above. It can right recess (technical) to gain the face proper. Continue up the
Rest of Europe

also be started from the left. ever-more-obvious flake feature, paralleling the previous route,
FSA. Julian Lines 2.8.2005 to finish some three metres higher than that line, by rocking onto
the handy, big flat ledge.
4 Lemoria . . . . . . . . . . . . 3sΩ 6b S1 FSA. Mike Robertson 2.8.2005
14m. A classic, striking flake-line; possibly the best route at Nare
Head. Sustained throughout. You'll find the name on some of the 6 Su Doku . . . . . . . . . 2shΩ 6c S2
Australia

area maps - it seems this outcrop really does have a local name. 19m. This intimidating line ventures into (and out of) the baffling
Leave the incut ledge, and climb diagonally leftwards - gradually narrow recess behind the start ledge. From that ledge, climb
easing - to finally finish on the left edge of the face, just by a rightwards 'around' the cave recess, then bridge across onto
bright green plant (in the right season!). the right wall of the chimney. Continue into the narrowing, then
Rest of World

FSA. Mike Robertson 2.8.2005 traverse leftwards to finish on Dolphins'.

FSA. Julian Lines 2.8.2005
 The Big Blue Face Nare Head 145

Swanage
RGJ 10 min

Lulworth
Portland
Devon
11
13
12

Cornwall
9 10
7 8

Pembroke
Scotland
7 Project . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . hΩ 7a+? S3 The Big Blue Face
The Big Blue Face is easy to identify, being much lighter
25m. The jutting face/corner set high up and left of Jean Reno
in colour and more ochre-stained than its opposite
looks amazing - and utterly gripping. Expect around 7a+, with a
neighbour.

Rest of UK
crux at over 20m.
Approach - To reach the routes, walk down the ridge
and set up a 16m abseil from a big, prominent flake
8 Jean Reno . . . . . . . 1tpΩ 7a S0 set in the top of the ridge. This will get you down to all
15m. A very hard start gives way to some great moves up the routes from Jean Reno along to Ong-Bak.
low, hanging prow. Abseil down to start in the black open groove, Tides and Conditions - Mid-tide and above; take a big

Portugal
some 6m left of The Big Blue. Traverse leftwards, past a desper- tide for Carlo Varini.
ate sloper move, to gain the prow. Climb this with gradually eas-
ing difficulty, to the easy upper slab.
FSA. Julian Lines 2.8.2005 q Link-up: Ong-Bak - Big Blue . . . Ω 7a? S0
13m. This excellent link-up is, as yet, unrealised. Follow the

Costa Blanca
9 tΩ
Luc Besson . . . . . . . . . . . . 6a+ S0
initial holds of Ong-Bak rightwards, until it's possible to arrive at
The Big Blue arete; follow this to the top.
13m. The start is shared with the next route and the route eases
considerably after a tricky start. Locate the small, slanting groove
A tweak of the abseil rope will drop it into the orange, south-
just above the sea (just above a small, sloped 'boss' at the
facing groove. Abseil down to a good ledge at its base.
waterline). Abseil in with a tape harness. Move up and left (crux)
Mallorca

to gain the small prow just right of the slim, black groove. Climb
more easily to the top slab. w 2tsΩ
The Big Blue . . . . . . 6b+ S0
FSA. Mike Robertson 30.8.2005. Named after the director of the classic film 13m. The arete in the centre of the east face is striking, and the
The Big Blue. climbing tricky and technical. After your abseil down the orange
Rest of Europe

corner (the corner itself is not a DWS), swing left and tackle the
0 2ptΩ
Ong-Bak . . . . . . . . . 7b+ S1 tricky arete direct and remember, it's not over until it's over.
FSA. Mike Robertson 2.8.2005
13m. Nare Head's hardest route is also one of the best. A classic
crank, based around the overlaps in the centre of the west face;
powerful climbing on undercuts, with poor footholds. Start at the The last route on the Big Blue Face can be easily reached by a
scramble traverse in from the right.
Australia

base of the face as for the last route (sling harness). Climb up
and right to gain the undercut territory, and continue in the same
theme to an easing of difficulty at 7m or so. Climb the easier slab e Carlo Varini . . . . 1ftsΩ 6c S2
to the top. See photo on page 137. 12m. The seaward arete is named after the genius of The Big
FSA. Gavin Symonds 30.8.2005 Blue's camera maestro. Take a high tide for the traverse in; climb
Rest of World

the sustained arete direct to the top.

FSA. Mike Robertson 2.8.2005