Specifications For Color Control On Textiles - Decathlon
Specifications For Color Control On Textiles - Decathlon
SPECIFICATIONS
FOR COLOR CONTROL CC-BD-SFT-LAB-COL-001
ON TEXTILES
Version F
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Codification
SPECIFICATIONS
FOR COLOR CONTROL CC-BD-SFT-LAB-COL-001
ON TEXTILES
Version F
Introduction:
1 SUBJECT
These specifications define the method to follow to undertake a colour colorimetric test on textiles (natural fibres,
synthetic fibres or mixes). Colorimetric measurement is carried out using a spectrocolorimeter (apart from some
specific materials, see list in paragraphs 6.10)
2 SCOPE
These specifications should be applied every time a lab dip or the colour of a production has to be validated.
These specifications apply to even (solid) colours. The following are therefore not included:
“Chiné” or mottled colours (Mix of different coloured fibres)
Yarn dyed fabrics (woven or knitted threads of different colours).
Printed fabrics.
Some fabrics with specific structures are not measured with a spectrocolorimeter. In these cases, the
assessment is done visually. For example, the following fabrics are concerned (non exhaustive list):
velvet
terry fabrics
fur
mesh
printed fabrics
towels
etc….
3 RESPONSIBILITY
These specifications should be applied by all persons in charge of colour control at DECATHLON or at the
supplier producing for DECATHLON.
For the supplier, the person in charge of the colorimetry laboratory should ensure that these specifications are
applied correctly.
For DECATHLON, the production responsible (PL= Production leader) should ensure that these specifications are
correctly applied by the supplier.
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Codification
SPECIFICATIONS
FOR COLOR CONTROL CC-BD-SFT-LAB-COL-001
ON TEXTILES
Version F
4 CONDITIONS
4.1 Spectrocolorimeter
The certified spectrocolorimeters are as follows:
DATACOLOR 600
DATACOLOR 800
GRETAG-MACBETH i7
MINOLTA CM-3700 d
Equipped with colour control measurement software, which uses the CMC equation and electronic format .qtx.
This equipment must be calibrated and checked once a year by a technician from the spectrocolorimeter's brand
or a maintenance company accredited by the spectrocolorimeter brand. A routine test (1 per month at least is
recommended) using a ceramic kit (e.g. GUARDIAN by Datacolor, or NETPROFILER by X-Rite) which ensures
that the spectrocolorimeter does not deviate between two calibrations, is necessary as well.
If a visual check is carried out, it must be done in a light cabinet. This cabinet should have D65, 840P15 (to
replicate F11), UV light sources. The inside of the cabinet should be painted in grey 5574. The cabinet is located
in a dark area (or is surrounded by curtains).
The lamps should be changed every 2000 hours and should be regularly cleaned in between.
The internal walls of the cabinet must remain mat (paint them again when they become shiny).
The recommended light cabinets are :
CAC de Verivide
Spectralight QC of Gretag Macbeth-Xrite
4.3 Staff
Staff who carries out the colorimetric measurements and/or visual assessment should successfully pass the
Ishihara test and the Farnsworth-Munsell test . The supplier keeps the recording of staff who performed these
tests with their result.
5 DEVELOPMENT
The color standards of DECATHLON are gathered in the Color Box. Each color standard in the Color Box is
identified with :
- An unique code : example DKT-C20A Turquoise.
- A reflectance curve (available in an electronic format qtx)
- A swatch card 105x104mm showing the color on a knit 100% polyester 2 layers fabric.
NB1 : the swatch card is only a visual guide and has in no case to be measured again with the
spectrocolorimeter. For the fluorescent colors (white included), the swatch card is the basis to start the
development.
- Colour difference ECMC (2:1) minimum for the 2 illuminants F11 and D65
- The minimum metamerism index for the 2 illuminants F11 and D65 (MI F11/D65)
- The color fastnesses (to wash, to rubbing, …) respect the technical sheet DECATHLON for the worked
component.
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Codification
SPECIFICATIONS
FOR COLOR CONTROL CC-BD-SFT-LAB-COL-001
ON TEXTILES
Version F
NB2 : the main illuminant is F11. If a colour is difficult to reach, give priority to the result under F11.
NB3 : the white and fluorescent colors for high visibilty (PPE : Personal Protective Equipment) appeal to other
parameters explained further.
The dyestuff recipe should be developed from the values of the reflectance curve of the reference (standard)
provided by DECATHLON and according to this curve only.An exception for fluorescent colors (PPE-personal
protective equipment or fashion fluorescent color, white with OBA : the development must be based on a
physical sample (swatch card of the Color Box).
PLEASE NOTE:
The reference physical sample should never be re-measured by the dyer.
This reference physical sample is only a visual guide.
The supplier (dyer) remains free to use its usual range of dyestuffs.
However, if the dyer meets some difficulties of colour adjustement, DECATHLON can provide the dyer with a
basic recipe (dyestuffs + auxiliaries) for each of 3 fibers mainly used in DECATHLON (cotton, polyamide and
polyester) for the different dyeing processes (beam, jet, cold pad-batch). Recipe and process have been
designed by an international dyestuff company.
This basic recipe is an answer to the fastness usually required by component technical sheets provided by
DECATHLON. The dyer should validate this recipe and adapt it if necessary by implementing it in its laboratory
on the ordered component and according to the process used in its workshops. If the dyer does not use the
recommended dyes, the dyer can request the equivalent ones from its usual dyestuff supplier.
For cases of specific fastness requested by DECATHLON (example: chlorine, perspiration+light, high level of
staining, etc...) a different recipe to that basic recipe will be necessary. The dyer should speak to the buyer and
to the dyestuff companies to obtain a selection of adapted dyestuffs.
The color development request is supplied by the PLM PACE of DECATHLON (PLM = Product Life Cycle
Management). The request includes the following items :
- Order form
- A sheet named "Color Name Color Data.pdf" which sums up the reflectance, the color classification, the
tests to perfom according to the color, a hue H direction (positive or negative dHcmc according to the
color to develop) to get in priority.
- The qtx file of the color.
- A suggestion of recipe-process for the material of the component.
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Codification
SPECIFICATIONS
FOR COLOR CONTROL CC-BD-SFT-LAB-COL-001
ON TEXTILES
Version F
Each request coming from PACE has an unique number with 9 figures. When corresponding with DECATHLON,
the supplier must give this number every time.
In order to make easier the communication between the supplier and DECATHLON, an internet connection of
the supplier to the PLM PACE of DECATHLON is possible.
For better matching results from several spectrocolormeters (whatever the brand), the measurements should be
carried out on:
Samples should be conditioned (temperature, humidity, and light) before being measured and/or visually
controlled (special fabrics). Samples should be removed from any packaging and placed flat on a grid in the
conditioning area.
In the event of using a conditioner cabinet to prepare the samples for measuring, carry out the measurement
immediately after removal from the cabinet (within 3 minutes).
In order to stabilize the temperature, the spectrocolormeter should be switched on minimum 30 minutes before
the user adjustement (Black and White), prior to measuring.
The spectrocolormeter should be used within the following boundaries 0 to 40°C, relative humidity < 85%. (To
confirm this data, check the technical guide of the device used)
If there is a variation of over 2°C of the temperature of the room in which the spectrocolorimeter is used, it is
necessary to adjust it again (Black and White).
In any event, adjustement (Black and White) is necessary every 3 hours.
The measurement of a green ceramic after each adjustement is a good way to detect a drift of the
spectrophotometer (principle of the statistical process control SPC or control chart)
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Codification
SPECIFICATIONS
FOR COLOR CONTROL CC-BD-SFT-LAB-COL-001
ON TEXTILES
Version F
Spectrocolorimeter :
Geometry d/8°,
Adjusted for SCI (specular included)
Checked and calibrated once a year by an approved organisation (calibration certificate available).
Monthly diagnostic with a kit of ceramics
Illuminants:
Observer: 10°
Wavelength range :
- 400 to 700nm with a 10nm step for non-fluorescent colors.
- 360 to 700nm with a 10nm step for the fluorescent colors (or including fluorescent dyestuffs) and for
white including OBA (Optical Brightnening Agent).
Ultraviolet rays:
- 0% (UV cut) for no-fluorescent colors
- Calibrated UV (UV D65/10 (CIE Whiteness)) for white including OBA (for white measurement refer to
the paragraph 8 " the exception for whites").
- Calibrated UV (UV D65/10 (CIE Whiteness)) for fluorescent colors or colors including fluorescent
dyestuffs.
NB 4 : UV calibrated settings is precised in the name of the DKT color into Datacolor TOOLS. Example: “DKT-
A04B Orange (use UV calibrated Setup)”
Equation used for fluorescent colors reserved for high visibility (personal protective equipment)
See paragraph 9
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Codification
SPECIFICATIONS
FOR COLOR CONTROL CC-BD-SFT-LAB-COL-001
ON TEXTILES
Version F
Measure the face side of the fabric (face side = side visible on the finished product). The face side must be
identified from the start between the parties (DECATHLON and suppliers)
Sample folding: 4 layers to not allow the light through (opacity)
4 measurements with one flash per measurement. If aperture <= 20mm, not make the 4 measurements at
the same place on the sample.
4 measurements : each measurement must be made on a different place of the sample (face side 1,2, 3
and 4), with a 90° rotation between each measurement. The 4 measurements are automatically
averaged by the software.
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Codification
SPECIFICATIONS
FOR COLOR CONTROL CC-BD-SFT-LAB-COL-001
ON TEXTILES
Version F
6.5 Tolerances
Each DKT color has a dH direction specified in the Color Data sheet (available in PACE and sent to the supplier in
the color development request). The supplier should follow prefered dH direction.
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Codification
SPECIFICATIONS
FOR COLOR CONTROL CC-BD-SFT-LAB-COL-001
ON TEXTILES
Version F
For the fabrics category I with a face side mechanical treatment, the checking of the color is performed
before the treatment, without taking in account the possible variation of color caused by the treatment (labdip
and production). For polar fleece, the fabric is measured at the knitted step, not yet brushed.
For the fabrics category I with a face side chemical treatment, the checking of the color is performed after
the treatment
DESIGN STAGE: Maximum difference authorised between the submission and QTX
reference. Difference = Submission - Reference
Lab-dip submission Reference (= standard): Electronic reflectance curve
F11 D65
dE cmc 2:1 <= 0.8 dE cmc 2:1 <= 0.8
With dH cmc 2:1 <= ± 0.4 With dH cmc 2:1 <= ± 0.4
With dC cmc 2:1 <= ± 0.5 With dC cmc 2:1 <= ± 0.5
With dL cmc 2:1 <= ± 0.6 With dL cmc 2:1 <= ± 0.6
Metamerism F11/D65 MI <= 1.0
PRODUCTION STAGE: Maximum difference authorised between the submission and QTX
reference. Difference = Submission - Reference
1st Production and Bulk production Reference (= standard): Electronic reflectance curve
F11 D65
dE cmc 2:1 <= 1.0 dE cmc 2:1 <= 1.0
With dH cmc 2:1 <= ± 0.5 With dH cmc 2:1 <= ± 0.5
With dC cmc 2:1 <= ± 0.6 With dC cmc 2:1 <= ± 0.6
With dL cmc 2:1 <= ± 0.7 With dL cmc 2:1 <= ± 0.7
Metamerism F11/D65 MI <= 1.0
Tolerance LabDip OK
Labdip
LabDip NOK
Tolerance Production OK
Production
Production NOK
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Codification
SPECIFICATIONS
FOR COLOR CONTROL CC-BD-SFT-LAB-COL-001
ON TEXTILES
Version F
DESIGN STAGE: Maximum difference authorised between the submission and QTX
reference. Difference = Submission – Reference
Lab-dip submission Reference (= standard): Electronic reflectance curve
F11 D65
dE cmc 2:1 <= 1 dE cmc 2:1 <= 1
With dH cmc 2:1 <= ± 0.4 With dH cmc 2:1 <= ± 0.4
With dC cmc 2:1 <= ± 0.5 With dC cmc 2:1 <= ± 0.5
With dL cmc 2:1 <= ± 1 With dL cmc 2:1 <= ± 1
Metamerism F11/D65 MI <= 1.0
Tolerance LabDip OK
Labdip
LabDip NOK
Tolerance Production OK
Production
Production NOK
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Codification
SPECIFICATIONS
FOR COLOR CONTROL CC-BD-SFT-LAB-COL-001
ON TEXTILES
Version F
For coated fabric (= Water repellent + CIRE + Coating) and for emerized fabric:
PRODUCTION STAGE: Maximum difference authorised between the submission and QTX
reference. Difference = Submission - Reference
1st Production and Bulk production Reference (= standard): Electronic reflectance curve
F11 D65
dE cmc 2:1 <= 1.4 dE cmc 2:1 <= 1.4
With dH cmc 2:1 <= ± 0.5 With dH cmc 2:1 <= ± 0.5
With dC cmc 2:1 <= ± 0.6 With dC cmc 2:1 <= ± 0.6
With dL cmc 2:1 <= ± 1.4 With dL cmc 2:1 <= ± 1.4
Metamerism F11/D65 MI <= 1.0
Specific case for laminated fabric face side = Water repellent + CIRE finishing** from mass production,
after lamination:
** Water repellent + CIRE finishing before lamination has been controlled according to the requirement above.
The production of laminated fabric is compared to the 1st lot of laminated fabric. The assessment is done
visually under proper conditions:
in a lightbox (refer to paragraph 4.2)
vision tests Ishihara and Munsell are done (refer to paragrah 4.3)
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Codification
SPECIFICATIONS
FOR COLOR CONTROL CC-BD-SFT-LAB-COL-001
ON TEXTILES
Version F
The colorimetric measurement report which should include the following informations:
Illuminants
Measurement conditions (specular SCI)
% Ultra Violet
The diameter of the opening diaphragm
Temperature and humidity conditions
Number of layers used for the measurement
ECMC (2:1)
dLCMC
dCCMC
dHCMC
da*
db*
MI F11/D65
The supplier must attach its measurement report to the submitted samples.
DECATHLON must upload in the PLM the measurement report performed on the spectrocolorimeter of
DECATHLON and not the one of the supplier.
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Codification
SPECIFICATIONS
FOR COLOR CONTROL CC-BD-SFT-LAB-COL-001
ON TEXTILES
Version F
The difference ΔE CMC (2:1) allowed between the centre selvedges is 0.4 maximum under the 2 illuminants F11
and D65.
The difference ΔE CMC (2:1) allowed between 2 selvedges is 0.4 maximum under the 2 illuminants F11 and D65.
Left Right
Selvedge Selvedge
0,4
Centre
Left Right
Selvedge Selvedge
0,4
Centre
PLEASE NOTE:
The fabric used for the laboratory submission should be identical in its construction, composition,
weight/sqm, yarn grades, to the fabric used for production.
All samples submitted to DECATHLON should be stapled cleanly to a standard paper or cardboard format, which
repeats the full identification elements of the lab dip (or production) for a good traceability. This paper sheet can
be the report of the supplier
This submission must be sent with the color measurement report of the supplier.
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Codification
SPECIFICATIONS
FOR COLOR CONTROL CC-BD-SFT-LAB-COL-001
ON TEXTILES
Version F
The supplier should have 1 specimen of the validated lab dip at least. If the lab dip is used very often, the
supplier should be well-advised to have 2 lab-dips :
There is no need to submit to DECATHLON samples which are not within the tolerance requirements. Maximum
2 submission samples are allowed. In the event of serious problems with development, the supplier should
speak to DECATHLON as soon as possible (the tech PL) and make a study of this color by 2 different dyestuffs
companies.
Like for the laboratory submission, the production submission should be stapled cleanly to a standard paper or
cardboard format, which repeats the full identification elements of the production for a good traceability. See
paragraph 6.8.2.
This submission must be sent with the color measurement report of the supplier.
Pending the development of technology which enables the measurement by a suitable equipment, the following
fabrics are controlled visually:
synthetic fur
mesh laminated to neoprene
very large stitch knit
heather fabrics (or chine, or melange)
yarn dyed fabrics with stripes and/or chequered
towels
printed fabrics
The person who operates the control should have good colour vision (no sign of colour blindness) and should be
trained in colour control.
Visual control is carried out in a lightbox (see § 4.2), with the same precautions taken as for the
spectrocolorimeter measurements:
Temperature,
Humidity,
Opacity of the fabric
For items that are washed-out once the product is completed (stone wash, sand wash, etc…), colour control will
be carried out on the non-washed out item.
Because of variations in colour after washing out from one production to another, and one supplier to another,
the results after washing-out are assessed according to a framework with an upper limit and a lower limit
materialised by control strips which DECATHLON and the supplier agreed on beforehand.
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Codification
SPECIFICATIONS
FOR COLOR CONTROL CC-BD-SFT-LAB-COL-001
ON TEXTILES
Version F
As mentioned before, the swatch card is the basis to start the development, but the control of the white
including OBA is performed with a measurement by spectrocolormeter under calibated UV CIE D65.
8.1 Tolerances
DESIGN STAGE : Maximum difference authorised between the submission and QTX
reference.Difference = Submission - Reference
Laboratory submission (Lab-dip) Reference (= standard): Electronic reflectance curve
D65
WCIE of batch = WCIE of standard 7,5 units
TVCIE of batch = TVCIE of standard 1,0 unit
L*D65 ≥ 92,5
PRODUCTION STAGE : Maximum difference authorised between the submission and QTX
reference. Difference = Submission - Reference
1st Production and Bulk production Reference (= standard): Electronic reflectance curve
D65
WCIE of batch = WCIE of standard 7,5 units
TVCIE of batch = TVCIE of standard 1,0 unit
L*D65 ≥ 92,5
PLEASE NOTE :
For the measurement of white, the background of the sample holder must be white absolutely (If
necessary a thick no-fluorescent white material must be set between the sample and the sample
holder)
Tolerance LabDip OK
Labdip
LabDip NOK
Tolerance Production OK
Production
Production NOK
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Codification
SPECIFICATIONS
FOR COLOR CONTROL CC-BD-SFT-LAB-COL-001
ON TEXTILES
Version F
The fluorescent colors reserved for high visibiliy goods (personal protective equipments PPE) are measured
according to the requirements of the relevant standards ISO 20471, EN 1150, or NF S74-567.
The parameters x, y, β are measured under D65 with a spectrocolormeter 45/0°, and observer 2°.
The fabric is measured in one layer and placed on a black underlaywith a luminance factor less than 0.04.
The spectrocolormeter 45/0° is not very common, but an approximate measurement can be performed with a
spectrocolormeter d/8° (protocole in progress).
In this specific case of high visibility goods, the applicant must inform the supplier of the final use of the treated
fabric and the right standard to follow (ISO 20471, EN 1150, or NF S74-567).
Refer to the Quality documents (country Quality service) to know the methods in the event of non-compliance in
a controlled batch.
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11 SIGNATURES
Completed in……………………………………………………………………………………………………. on
the ………………………………………………
Position Position
Signature Signature
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