AXOLOTL

Bear
Head:
R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
R2: 2sc in each st (12)
R3: *sc in next st, 2sc in next st* rep **(18)
R4: *sc in next 2 st, 2sc in next st*, rep ** (24)
R5-7: sc in each stitch (24)
R8: *sc in next 2 st, dec 1 in next st*, rep **(18)
R9: *sc in next st, dec 1 in next st*, rep** (12)
R10: *sc in next 2 st, dec 1 in next st*, rep ** (9)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Leg: (Make 2)
R1: 4sc in magic ring (4)
R2: 2 sc in each stitch (8)
R3-5: sc in each stitch (8)
fasten off the yarn in first leg but do not cut off the yarn in the second leg.
Stuff both legs.
body:
Hold both legs together and sl st the second leg to the other one,
R1: sc around (16)
R2: sc around (16)
R3: *sc in next 2 st, dec 1 in next st*, rep ** (12)
R4-5: sc in each stitch (12)
R6: *sc in next 2 st, dec 1 in next st*, rep ** (9)
Fasten off and sew in the edges.

NOTE: after stuffing, the legs will seem to be slightly apart (like inverted v shape).
In order to make the legs together, with the remaining yarn from the first leg, sew
both the legs together at the inner side. This will give a nice finished look)

Hands: (Make 2)
R1: 4sc in magic ring (4)
R2: *sc in next st, 2sc in next st*, rep ** (6)
R3-5: sc in each stitch (6)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Ears: (Make 2)
6sc in mc
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Assembling:
Sew the head to the body and attach both hands to the body using tapestry
needle.
Sew in both ears to the head.
Cut a small oval shape felt and glue it to the body.
Cut 2 small half circle felt and glue it to the inner ears
Cut another small oval shape for snout and embroider the mouth and nose to your
liking.
Sew in eyes closer to the snout using small black beads.

Note:
Alternatively, you can crochet small oval shapes for the body and snout instead of
felt.
BIRB
Pattern:
leave a long tail (you'll make feathers later) and make a mr, ch 1
6 sc in the ring (pull yarn to close it)

rnd 1: 2 sc in each of the 6 sts you made (12)

rnd 2: 2 sc in every 2nd st (18)
rnd 3: 2 sc in every 3rd st (24)
rnd 4 - 6: sc around (24)
rnd 7: 2 sc in every 4th (30)
rnd 8: 2 sc in every 5th (36)
rnd 9: 2 sc in every 6th (42)
rnd 10 - 12: sc around (42)
rnd 13: decrease every 6th (36)
rnd 14: decrease every 5th (30)
rnd 15: decrease every 4th (24)
rnd 16: decrease every 3rd (18)

Put the eyes on 6 rows down from the mr. Leave 3 st between them.
rnd 17: decrease every 2nd (12) Stuff the bird.
rnd 18: sc around (12)
rnd 19: decrease each (6) Fasten off. Don't sew the bird yet.

Beak:
You'll make the beak a row below the eyes in the 3 sts between them. I start by
making an outline (a little triangle). After you make the outline, you can keep
sewing until you fill in the beak.

I usually sew right in the middle (from the bottom of beak until very top).

When you're done, pull yarn to the very bottom of bird (where you fasten off) and
through that whole.

Make a nod, stuff the rest of the yarn in the bird, and sew the bird.
Feathers on top of head:
You'll make the feathers from the long tail you left at the beginning. Insert hook
anywhere you want on top of the head (I keep it close to where the tail starts), yo,
pull and sl st. Now make a ch of 6 or 7 (this is the smaller feather). Insert hook in
same st you started, yo, pull and sl st. Make a ch of 10 or 11 (bigger feather). Insert
hook where you started, yo, pull and sl st. Fasten off. I make a little nod here and
stuff the rest of the yarn in the bird.
BUNNY (Miffy)
CAT
Instructions
This pattern is made in a spiral of continuous rounds
Body (make 1)

Row # Instructions
R1 4-sc MC
R2 3-sc inc × 4
R3 sc, 3-sc inc, [sc × 2, 3-sc inc] × 3, sc
R4 sc × 2, 3-sc inc, [sc × 4, 3-sc inc] × 3, sc × 2
R5 sc × 3, 3-sc inc, [sc × 6, 3-sc inc] × 3, sc × 3
R6 sc × 4, 3-sc inc, [sc × 8, 3-sc inc] × 3, sc × 4
R7 sc × 5, sc2tog, [sc × 9, sc2tog] × 3, sc × 4
R8-13 sc × 40
R14 sc × 4, sc3tog, [sc × 7, sc3tog] × 3, sc × 3
R15 sc × 3, sc3tog, [sc × 5, sc3tog] × 3, sc × 2
Stuff well. Place the nose between R11 and R12 in the middle of the face. If you are using
15mm) place the eyes at the same level as the nose (between R11 and R12). If not, add
the nose (between R10 and R11).

The eyes look cuter if they are ~2-3 sts away from the nose on each side. Try the distance
and once you are happy with it, fix them in place. See pictures for reference.
R16 sc × 2, sc3tog, [sc × 3, sc3tog] × 3, sc
R17 [sc, sc3tog] × 4

Sew the ends together to close the gap

Legs (make 4)

Row # Instructions
R1 5-sc MC
R2 2-sc inc × 5
R3-7 sc × 10

Leave long tail. Do not stuff

Ears (make 2)

Row # Instructions
R1 5-sc MC
R2 2-sc inc, sc, 2-sc inc, sc, 2-sc inc
R3 [sc, 2-sc inc] × 4
R4 [sc × 2, 2-sc inc] × 4
R5 [sc × 3, 2-sc inc] × 4

Leave long tail. Do not stuff

Sew the end of the ears together as shown in the pictures.
Tail (make 1)

(Optional, use a different color for the first two rows)

Row # Instructions
R1 6-sc MC
R2-12 sc × 6

Leave long tail. Do not stuff.

Assembly
Attach unstuffed legs to the bottom of the kitty body. You can place them as you
wish. You can see how I prefer to place them in the picture on the left. Tip, use pins
to see how they look like before you sew them in.
Attach the ears so one end is on R3 and the other end is on R7. For extra cuteness
place them so they curve a little as per the picture:
Sew the tail at back the body (R12). You can attach it a little to the side of the body
as per picture
Dinosaur 1
MOUTH
With pink yarn (or whatever color you’d like for the mouth)
Round 1: 8 sc into magic ring.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around – 16 sc.
Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] around – 24 sc.
Do not fasten off. Fold Mouth in half. Sew the straight line of the fold
closed by using sc – 6 sc across. Fasten off.HEAD
With green yarn (or whatever color you want for the head)
Round 1: 6 sc into magic ring.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around – 12 sc.
Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] around – 18 sc.
Round 4: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st] around – 21 sc.
Round 5: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 st] around – 24 sc.
Round 6: Sc in each st around – 24 sc.
Round 7: Attach mouth (top portion) to head by sc in next 12 st (sc
stitches through both head and mouth parts), sc in next 12 st on head – 24
sc.

Round 8: Attach mouth (bottom portion) to head by sc in next 12 st, sc in

next 12 st on head – 24 sc.
Round 9: (In back loop) [Sc2tog, sc in next 2 st] 3 times, (now through
both loops) [Sc2tog, sc in next 2 st] 3 times – 18 sc.
Round 10: [Sc2tog, sc in next st] around – 12 sc.
Round 11: Sc2tog around – 6 sc.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff and sew closed. Be sure to take a look at
my video tutorial for stuffing tips and tricks so that your head retains it’s
nice open mouth shape. Add eyes.
BODY
With green yarn
Round 1: 6 sc into magic ring.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around – 12 sc.
Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] around – 18 sc.
Round 4: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] around – 24 sc.
Round 5-7: Sc in each st around.
Round 8: [Sc2tog, sc in next 6 st] around – 21 sc.
Round 9: Sc in each st around.
Round 10: [Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st] around – 18 sc.
Round 11: Sc in each st around.
Round 12: [Sc2tog, sc in next 4 st] around – 15 sc.
Round 13: Sc in each st around.
Round 14: [Sc2tog, sc in next 3 st] around – 12 sc.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff.
FEET (make 2)
With green yarn
Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring.
Round 2-6: Sc in each st around,
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Do not stuff.
ARM (make 2)
With green yarn
Round 1: 4 sc in magic ring.
Round 2-3: Sc in each st around.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Do not stuff.
TAIL
With green yarn
Round 1: 4 sc in magic ring.
Round 2: Sc in each st around.
Round 3: 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st – 5 sc.
Round 4: Sc in each st around.
Round 5: 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st – 6 sc.
Round 6-7: Sc in each st around.
Round 8: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] around – 8 sc.
Round 9: Sc in each st around.
Round 10: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] around – 10 sc.
Round 11: Sc in each st around.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Stuff.
BELLY PATCH (optional)
With yellow yarn
Row 1: Ch 5, sc in each ch across – 4 sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in last st – 6 sc.
Row 3-5: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across – 6 sc
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, skip first st, sc in next 5 st – 5 sc.
Row 7: Ch 1, turn, skip first st, sc in next 4 st – 4 sc.
Row 8: Ch 1, turn, skip first st, sc in next 3 st – 3 sc.
Row 9: Ch 1, turn, skip first st, sc in next 2 st – 2 sc.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
ASSEMBLY
1. Attach HEAD to BODY.
2. Attach LEGS to BODY.
3. Attach ARMS to BODY.
4. Attach TAIL to back of BODY.
5. (optional) Attach BELLY PATCH to BODY.
6. Hide and cut all ends.
Dinosaur 2 (UK terminology, remember to convert)
Elephant
Frog 1
FROG 2
Using color green
Make a slipknot and chain 7
R1: sc in the 2nd chain from hook, sc in next 5 ch sts,
Working down the other side of the chain
sc in next 6 ch sts {12 sts}
We're working in continuous rounds. Make your first increase of R2 into the
next stitch.
R2: (inc, sc) 6 times {18 sts}
R3: (inc, sc in next 2 sts) 6 times {24 sts}

R4 we're making the eyes. Using stitch markers, mark the back loops only of
stitch 4, 5, 9 and 10 before you begin crocheting. The eyes will be worked
into the front loops of the marked stitches.
I also suggest marking the first sl st and the last sl st of the eye with a
stitch marker. Helpful for R5.
R4: sc in next 3 sts, [eye: in next flo, sl st, sc, hdc in same stitch, in next flo,
hdc, sc, sl st in same stitch], sc in next 3 sts, [eye: in next flo, sl st, sc, hdc in
same stitch, in next flo, hdc, sc, sl st in same stitch], sc in next 14 sts {24 sts
counting the marked back loops, not the flo stitches for the eyes}
For R5: As we work this round, we will work into the back loops that we
marked for R4 and not into the stitches of the eye. After you work into the
back loops, reach your hook over into the next stitch - the one next to your
marked eye stitch.
R5: sc in next 2 sts, (inc, sc in next 3 sts) 5 times, inc, sc {30 sts}
Optional: mark R6 for eye placement later.
R6-9: sc in next 30 sts {30 sts}
R10: sc in next 3 sts, flo bobble, sc in next 3 sts, flo small bobble, sc in next
2 sts, flo small bobble, sc in next 3 sts, flo bobble, sc in next 15 sts {30 sts}
R11: (dec, sc in next 3 sts) 6 times {24 sts}
Place 14mm safety eyes underneath the crocheted eye. Grab a long piece
of black worsted (4) weight yarn or embroidery floss and embroider a smile
between R5-R6. Secure safety eyes.
R12: (dec, sc in next 2 sts) 6 times {18 sts}
Begin to stuff. Don't overstuff, you want the bottom to lay somewhat flat.
R13: (dec, sc) 6 times {12 sts}
R14: (dec) 6 times {6 sts}
Fasten off and leave a long piece of yarn to sew the body shut.
PIG
Body:

Ears

Snout
Monster
Moose
Body
With brown yarn, make a magic ring
R1: 6 sc into ring (6 sts).
R2: 2 sc in ea st around (12 st)
R3: *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, repeat
from * around (18 st)
R4-12: sc around (18 st)
Take time out to insert safety eyes. The
safety eyes go between rounds 2 & 3. Refer
to photo for placement. Stuff and continue
stuffing as you finish up the body.
R13: *sc in next st, sc next 2 st together. Repeat from * around (12)
R14: sc next 2 st together (6).
Weave opening closed. Fasten off and weave in end.
Muzzle
With brown yarn, make a magic ring
R1: 6 sc into ring (6 sts).
R2: *sc in next st, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (9 st).
R3: sc around. Fasten off.
Stuff with a tiny bit of stuffing. Position muzzle below eyes and sew onto
lower part of face.
Ears (Make 2)
With brown yarn, ch 4
R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next ch, ch 2, sl st to last ch. Fasten off
leaving a long strand for sewing.
Position ears so that the starting chain is resting against head and sew an ear
on each side of the head.
Antlers (Make 2)
With beige yarn, ch 6
R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (5 sc)
R2: sl st in next 2 st, in next stitch work: (sc, dc, ch2, sl st). Fasten off.
Sew antlers on head in between ears.
Legs (Make 4)
With brown, make a magic ring.
R1: 6 sc into ring (6 sts).
R2: sc in ea st around (6 st). Leave a long strand for sewing.
Position front legs between rows 5-7 and back legs between rows 10-12 on
bottom of moose (or wherever looks best to you) and sew down. Note: Legs
are not stuffed.
OCTOPUS
Ch 4
Insert hook into first ch and sl st
R1: Ch 1, 6 sc into circle, sl st into ch 1 (6 sts)
R2: Ch 1, 2 sc into each st, sl st into ch 1 (12 sts)
R3: Ch 1, *sc, 2 sc. Repeat from * until last st, sl st into ch 1 (18 sts)
R4: Ch 1, *sc, sc, 2 sc. Repeat from * until last st, sl st into ch 1 (24 sts)
R5-9: Ch 1, sc into each st, sl st into ch 1 (24 sts)
R10: Ch 1, *sc, sc, sc2tog. repeat from * until the end of the row (18 sts)
Now where it gets just a little tricky! For this next row, you are going to be
using ONLY the front loops to make the tentacles. I am going to break down this
row for you.
You are now moving to R11 which is the tentacle rows. There are two R11’s, front
loops, then the back loops.
R11 (front loops only)
Start: Ch 1, sc
Tentacle: sc, chain 8. 2 sc into the second ch from hook. 2 sc into each of the next
6 chains (14 sc for the tentacle). Sc into next st (front loop!) on the row.
Repeat Tentacle instructions 3 more times until you have a total of 4 tentacles.
Now, crochet another sc into the next front loop. This marks the middle of the
octopus and even outs the stitches. Then continue again with the Tentacle pattern
to make the remaining 4 tentacles. Your amigurumi octopus is starting to come
along!
Extra sc in between tentacles
Sl st.
Whew! I hope you were able to get that row down with ease! I assure you, that
may be the only confusing part. Now that that is done, it is just all decreases from
here to close up the bottom of the octopus.
Locate where you added that extra sc in between the tentacles with four on each
side. Count two (or more) rows up and insert your safety eyes. After that, fill with
fiber fill but make sure not to over fill!
Now the next row will be using the back loops of row 10.
R11 (back loops): ch 1, *sc, sc2tog. Repeat from * until end of the row.

R12 to close: ch 1, sc into every other st until bottom is closed.

Fasten off and hide tail.

Platypus R25: [1 sc, 1 dec] x6 (12)
R26: 6 dec (6)
Body (in main color) Stuff. Fasten off and close.
R1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6) Bill (in yellow)
R2: 1 inc in each sc (12) R1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
R3: [1 sc, 1 inc] x6 (18) R2: 1 inc in each sc (12)
R4: [2 sc, 1 inc] x6 (24) R3-R6: 1 sc in each sc (12)
R5: [3 sc, 1 inc] x6 (30) Flatten and sew to body as shown.
R6: 1 sc in each sc (30) Tail (in main color)
R7: 1 sc in each sc (30) R1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Add safety eyes between R4 & R5 R2: 1 inc in each (12)
R8-R11: 1 sc in each sc (30) R3-R4: 1 sc in each sc (12)
R12: [3 sc, 1 dec] x6 (24) R5: [4 sc, 1 dec] x2 (10)
R13: 1 sc in each sc (24) R6: 1 sc in each sc (10)
R14: [3 sc, 1 inc] x6 (30) Flatten and sew to body as shown.
R15: [4 sc, 1 inc] x6 (36) Feet x4 (in main color)
R16-R21: 1 sc in each sc (36) R1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
R22: [4 sc, 1 dec] x6 (30) R2: 1 sc in each (6)
R23: [3 sc, 1 dec] x6 (24) Sew to body as shown.
R24: [2 sc, 1 dec] x6 (18)
Shark
1.In MR, sc 6 (6)
SHEEP
Head and
body
1. Starting in brown - MC (6)
2. *Inc * (12)
3. *1sc, inc * (18)
4. *2sc, inc * (24)
5-9. 24sc (24)
10. *2sc, dec * (18)
11. *1sc, dec * (12)
12. Change to cream – BLO – *1sc, inc * (18)
13. BLO – 6sc, inc x6, 6sc (24)
14. BLO – 6sc, *inc, sc *x6, 6sc (30)
15. BLO – 8sc, *inc, 2sc * x6, 4sc (36)
16-24. BLO – 36sc (36)
25. BLO - *4sc, dec * (30)
26. BLO - *3sc, dec * (24)
27. BLO - *2sc, dec * (18)
28. BLO - *1sc, dec * (12)
29. *dec* (6)
FO and close hole.
Fleece
Do the fleece before adding the feet and ears.
Join yarn to the first cream stitch on the head using the
FLO left over from making the body.
*2sc into the 1st stitch, 3dc into the next st * repeat this
on alternate rounds around the sheep until you have 4
rounds left, then do every round until the end.
Feet x4
1. MC (6)
2-4. 6sc (6)
FO leaving yarn tail for sewing to body.
Ears x2
1. MC (4)
2. Do not join the MC. Ch 1 and turn. 1sc into each st. Slst
into centre of MC
Fo leaving yarn tail for sewing to body.
YETI