Nikon D5600 Photography Cheat Sheet
Nikon D5600 Photography Cheat Sheet
center-weighted (meter for face) 1 . Use AF-S (single) focus on the eyes 2 . In daylight, keep
ISO low (100–200) for clean image 3 . Use the 55–200 mm (tele) zoom at ~85–135 mm (35 mm
eq.) for flattering compression 4 . Composition tip: place subject off-center (rule of thirds)
against a simple background.
• Aperture Priority (A): Set aperture wide (f/2.8–5.6) to blur background in daylight/golden hour.
Indoors or group shots, stop down (f/5.6–8) for more depth. Camera adjusts shutter (ensure it
stays ≥1/100 s for handheld). For daylight portraits, shoot at base ISO (100) 1 . Use center-
weighted metering or spot on the subject’s face.
• Shutter Priority (S): Use a fast shutter (≥1/200 s) to “freeze” any movement (hair, slight motion).
Aperture auto. Good for action poses or kids; camera balances aperture accordingly.
• ISO & WB: In bright light use ISO100–200; indoors raise to 400–800. Golden-hour portraits:
ISO100–200, aperture ~f/2.8–4, shutter ~1/100 s, and set WB to Cloudy or 6000–7000 K for warm
tones 5 . Indoor (incandescent) use Tungsten white balance or Auto. Keep ISO as low as
possible for quality 3 .
• Focus & Metering: Use Single-Servo AF (AF‑S) for still subjects; switch to Continuous AF (AF‑C) if
shooting kids or pets. Lock focus on the eyes. Metering: Matrix/Evaluative is fine, but Center-
Weighted or Spot on the face avoids blown highlights.
• Lens: Portraits often look best with the 55–200 mm (tele) lens around 85–135 mm (35 mm eq.) for
a natural perspective. The 18–55 mm kit lens can work at 50–55 mm for environmental portraits.
• Composition & Lighting: Use the light (sun or window) behind you or at a 45° angle. Golden
hour: shoot towards the light for rimlit hair or silhouettes. Indoors: use window light (side
lighting) and consider fill-flash or reflector to brighten shadows. Tip: use Exposure Lock (AEL) on
the subject and recompose to avoid exposure shifting. Exposure compensation of +⅓ to +1 stop
can brighten faces when backlit.
1/60–1/200 s is typical. In sunrise/sunset scenes use f/11–16, shutter may range 0.5–5 s (tripod),
ISO 100. WB: Cloudy or Shade to warm colors; custom ~5000–6000 K is often pleasing 5 . Meter
using matrix; for high contrast scenes (bright sky/dark foreground) consider spot-metering sky
for silhouette or bracket.
• Shutter Priority (S): Generally less used for static landscapes. If handheld, lock shutter ≥1/60 s;
aperture opens as needed.
• ISO & WB: Always keep ISO low (100) for clean images 7 . For night or twilight, boost ISO (800–
1600+) as needed (see Night below). WB: Daylight for sunlight, Cloudy for sunset warmth.
• Focus: AF‑S or manual focus on the horizon or use hyperfocal distance for sharpness. Check
infinity focus for night sky.
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• Lens: Use 18–55 mm at the wide end for sweeping vistas. Stop the 18–55 down to f/8–11 to
sharpen corners 6 . The 55–200 mm can isolate details or distant subjects in a landscape.
• Composition & Tips: Apply rule of thirds, include foreground interest (rocks, flowers) to add
depth. At sunrise/sunset, shoot when the sun is near horizon: meter for the brightest sky or
expose for the foreground and blend later. Deb Sandidge’s tips: she often uses f/16 and shoots
around sunrise with ISO100, manual exposure and Matrix metering 8 . She also recommends
setting WB to Cloudy for extra warmth 5 . For night skies, use long exposures (10–30 s) at f/2.8–
5.6, ISO1600–3200 9 . Include silhouettes or star trails with a tripod and 2 s timer.
3. Action/Sports Photography
• General: Prioritize fast shutter (≥1/500–1/1000 s) to freeze motion 10 . Use Shutter Priority (S)
or Manual. Aperture wide open (f/2.8–5.6) to maximize light 11 . ISO as low as possible for noise,
but increase (800–3200) to allow fast shutter in low light 12 . Shoot in High-Speed (burst) mode
to capture sequences.
• Manual (M): Example start: ISO 400, f/4, shutter 1/1000 s. Adjust ISO up if exposure is too dark.
• Aperture Priority (A): Set f/2.8–4; camera picks shutter (it may slow if ISO is maxed—watch
ISO!).
• Shutter Priority (S): Fix shutter at 1/1000 s; camera sets aperture. Useful when light varies.
• AF & Metering: Use Continuous AF (AF‑C) with a single or dynamic focus area, tracking subjects.
Nikon’s “3D-tracking” or a cluster of points works well. Switch from multi-point to single-point or
small zone for precision 13 . Start with the center point or small zone. Metering in Matrix/
Evaluative unless you need precise control (e.g. spot on a skier).
• ISO & WB: Outdoors: ISO 200–800 (higher if needed). Indoors/at dusk: ISO 1600–3200. For
indoor sports under artificial lights, set WB to Fluorescent/Tungsten to avoid green/yellow casts
14 .
• Lens: Use the 55–200 mm tele, zooming in for distant players or wildlife. Prefer mid-zoom (100–
150 mm) for more light (the 55–200 is slowest at 200 mm, so mid-zoom f-stop is lower).
• Composition & Tips: Track subjects through the viewfinder (panning). Follow the action and
release the shutter just before the peak moment. Keep one eye on framing. Exposure
compensation is usually 0 (auto WB outdoors) 15 . Don’t use flash (too far). For moving subjects,
use continuous burst, and consider back-button focus for more control.
4. Street Photography
• General: Most street shooters stay in Aperture Priority for speed and DOF control 16 . Typical
aperture f/5.6–8 (enough DOF for faces/scene). Ensure shutter ≥1/125 s to avoid blur; ISO Auto
or set to 200–800.
• Manual (M): Advanced: set aperture and ISO, let meter suggest shutter; useful in rapidly
changing light.
• Aperture (A): Set f/5.6; camera picks shutter. Good for general walk-around.
• Shutter (S): Fix shutter (~1/125 s) if you want to freeze action; camera adjusts aperture.
• AF & Metering: Use AF-C (continuous) ~95% of the time for unpredictable street subjects 17 .
Select a small focus area or zone. Metering: Multi/matrix for general scenes; switch to spot/
center for tricky high-contrast.
• ISO & WB: Let ISO Auto up to ~800 for flexibility. WB auto or Daylight outdoors, Tungsten/
Fluorescent for nighttime street lamps.
• Lens: The 18–55 mm at ~35–50 mm (mid-range) is popular for environmental context. Keep
distance to include surroundings. 55–200 mm can be used discreetly for candid shots from afar.
• Composition & Tips: Anticipate scenes and react quickly. Use the zone-focus technique (pre-
focus at a distance) if subjects are near. Embrace side-light and contrast; underexpose slightly to
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preserve highlights if needed. Use exposure lock if recomposing off-center. Avoid flash (it spoils
candid moments). Carry the camera up and ready; half-press AF then shoot to get sharp capture
of fleeting street moments.
5. Macro/Close-Up Photography
• General: Use Manual or Aperture Priority. Macro is extremely sensitive to depth of field. On APS-
C (D5600), use narrow apertures (f/8–11) for maximum DOF 18 . If light is limited, you may
resort to f/5.6. A tripod or flash is highly recommended. Set shutter ≥1/200 s (or faster if
handheld macro), raise ISO (200–800) to accommodate.
• Focus & Metering: Manual focus is often best (focus stacking). Otherwise use AF-S (single) and
focus-recompose. Meter via spot on subject.
• ISO & WB: Keep ISO as low as possible to avoid noise (100–400). WB to suit light; use flash TTL if
available.
• Lens: Neither kit lens is true macro, but the 18–55 mm at 18 mm close-focus or 55–200 mm at
55 mm can do semi-macro shots. Consider extension tubes or macro mode if any.
• Composition & Tips: Fill the frame with your subject. Use a tripod or brace yourself to eliminate
shake. If outdoors, shoot with the sun behind to light up the subject (or use a ring flash). Depth
of field is razor-thin: focus on the subject’s most important part (e.g. insect’s eye). Consider focus
stacking in post for tiny insects. Macro lighting: a diffused flash can allow stopping down to f/16–
22 for more DOF 19 .
6. Wildlife Photography
• General: Similar to sports: use fast shutter (≥1/1000 s) since animals move unpredictably.
Aperture wide (f/4–5.6) to isolate subject and let in light. ISO ~400–1600 (or Auto ISO) to achieve
shutter speed. Burst mode ON.
• Mode: Shutter Priority or Manual. Eg. Manual at ISO 800, f/5.6, shutter 1/1000 s; adjust ISO or
shutter as needed.
• AF & Metering: Use AF-C continuous, with back-button focus if possible. Use a large focus area
(Nikon dynamic-area or group AF) to track animals in foliage. “Continuous AF (AF-C) is the mode
of choice for sports and wildlife” 20 . Metering Matrix or Center-weighted on the animal; adjust
exposure compensation if animal is very light or dark.
• Lens: Use the 55–200 mm at the long end to fill the frame with the subject. On a crop sensor,
200 mm is like 300 mm, good for birds/distant mammals. If subject is close, 55–100 mm can be
used. Keep ISO in check to preserve detail.
• Composition & Tips: Fill the frame, include open eyes, and give “lead room” in the direction of
movement. For perched birds, you can drop shutter to 1/500 s. Use a monopod or lean on
support for stability. Try to shoot when the animal is active (chasing prey, looking alert).
7. Night Photography
• General: Manual mode with tripod. For night cityscapes or light trails: aperture f/8–11 (for
starburst effects on lights), shutter 5–30 s, ISO 200–800. For starry skies (astrophotography):
aperture wide open (f/3.5–5.6), shutter 10–30 s, ISO 1600–3200 9 . Use a 2 s or remote trigger to
avoid shake. WB: Daylight or custom (3000–4000 K) for natural night sky colors. Focus manually
at infinity (turn off AF), use Live View magnified on a bright star to adjust focus.
• High ISO: Modern D5600 can handle ISO up to ~3200 with acceptable noise. Test your camera’s
limits. “Most of the time you’ll use an ISO between 1200 and 3200 for night photography” 9 .
After shooting, noise reduction in Lightroom or similar helps.
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• Composition: Include interesting foreground (silhouettes, architecture) with the sky. For star
trails, use very long exposures or stacking of shorter ones. In cities, slower shutter can blur car
lights into streaks.
• Focus & Metering: Manual focus on distant lights/subjects. Metering doesn’t work well, so test
and use histogram to judge exposure.
9. Travel Photography
• General: Versatile approach. Often use Aperture Priority (f/8 for landscapes, f/4 for people). ISO
Auto (100–800). Shutter ~1/125–1/250 s for handheld shots; slower on tripod for scenery. Keep
camera ready for snapshots.
• Modes: Aperture Priority or Program mode for quick changes. Manual if bracketing exposures or
consistent look.
• Focus: AF‑S for scenes/portraits, AF‑C for moving subjects (vehicles, wildlife). Auto-area AF or
center AF and recompose as needed.
• Metering & WB: Mostly Matrix, adjust exposure comp for tricky light (e.g. +0.3–0.7EV in shade or
+1 in backlit scenes). WB Auto or Daylight for outdoors; switch to Cloudy in overcast or artificial
light.
• Lens Use: 18–55 mm is useful for street scenes, architecture, group shots. 55–200 mm for distant
details or wildlife. Pack lightweight but have lens caps on.
• Composition: Be mindful of backgrounds (remove trash, signs if possible). Use leading lines and
context (local landmark, people in environment). Keep horizon level.
• Tips: Carry the camera strap around your neck for quick access. In bright midday, use smaller
apertures or ND filters to prevent blown highlights. Use spot metering on local subjects (e.g.
people) to get proper skin tones.
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• Focus: In very low light or contrasty scenes, AF may hunt; consider manual focus or focus-lock
(AE-L/AF-L) once focus is obtained.
• WB: For very warm (sunset) or cool (blue hour) scenes, experiment with White Balance: e.g. use
Cloudy/Warm for sunsets. In mixed lighting, shoot RAW to fine-tune.
• Tips: Learn your D5600’s dynamic range limits. Use Spot metering on key areas when Matrix
fails (e.g. metering on the brightest sky or the darkest shadow intentionally). For flash silences,
lean on AUTO ISO with a cap to allow faster shutter without grain.
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