Test and Repair Engine Electrical Systems LO3
Test and Repair Engine Electrical Systems LO3
Curriculum
This learning guide is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the
following content coverage and topics –
This guide will also assist you to attain the learning outcome stated in the cover page.
Specifically, upon completion of this Learning Guide, you will be able to –
Learning Instructions:
1. Read the specific objectives of this Learning Guide.
2. Follow the instructions described in number 3 to 20.
3. Read the information written in the “Information Sheets 1”. Try to understand what are
being discussed. Ask you teacher for assistance if you have hard time understanding
them.
4. Accomplish the “Self-check 1” in page -.
5. Ask from your teacher the key to correction (key answers) or you can request your
teacher to correct your work. (You are to get the key answer only after you finished
answering the Self-check 1).
6. If you earned a satisfactory evaluation proceed to “Information Sheet 2”. However, if
your rating is unsatisfactory, see your teacher for further instructions or go back to
Learning Activity #1.
7. Submit your accomplished Self-check. This will form part of your training portfolio.
When something is wrong with a car, the technician must perform four basic steps to find
and correct the problem. These are:
1. Inspection,which answers the question "Is somethingwrong?" or " Is there a problem?"
The answer is usuallya "yes" or "no."
2. Diagnosis,also called trouble-diagnosis and troubleshooting.This answers the question
"What is wrong?"or "What caused or is causing the problem?"
3. Repair,which includes the steps necessary to fix the problem or repair both the problem
and its cause,
4. Quality check,or performing step I again. If the properrepair has been made, the
original problem no longerexists.
Inspection
Many charging system concerns are caused by easilyrepairable problems that reveal
themselves during avisual inspection of the system. Remember to alwayslook for the
simple solution before performing moreinvolved diagnostic procedures. Use the
followinginspection procedure when a problem is suspected.
ON-VEHICLE INSPECTION
3. Maintenance-Free Battery:
CHECK BATTERY VOLTAGE
a) After having driven the vehicle and in the case that 20minutes have not passed after
having stopped the engine,turn the ignition switch ON and turn on the electricalsystem
(headlight, blower motor, rear defogger etc.) for60 seconds to remove the surface
charge.
b) Turn the ignition switch OFF and turn off the electrical systems.
c) Measure the battery voltage between the negative (-)and positive (+) terminals of the
battery.
Standard voltage: 12.5 - 12.9 V at 20°C (68°F)
If the voltage is less than specification, charge the battery.
HINT:Check the indicator as shown in the illustration.
- Disconnect the wire from terminal B of the generator,and connect it to the negative (-
) tester probeof the ammeter.
- Connect the positive (+) tester probe of the ammeterto terminal B of the generator.
- Connect the positive (+) tester probe of the voltmeterto terminal B of the generator.
- Ground the negative (-) tester probe of the voltmeter.
b) Check the charging circuit as follows:
With the engine running from idling to 2,000 rpm, checkthe reading on the ammeter and
voltmeter.
Standard amperage: 10 A or less
Standard voltage: 13.2 - 14.8 V
If the value is not specified, check the generator.
PHOTO SEQUENCE 1 - Typical Procedure for Inspecting, Removing, Replacing, and Adjusting a Drive
Belt
Oscilloscope Checks
Figure 1.1-1AC generator oscilloscope patterns: (A) good AC generator under full load, (B) good AC
generator under no load, (C) shorted diode and/or stator winding under full load, and (D) open diode in diode
trio.
PRECAUTION
Check that the battery cables are connected to the correct terminals.
Disconnect the battery cables when the battery is given a quick charge.
Do not perform tests with a high voltage insulation resistance tester.
Never disconnect the battery while the engine is running.
Preliminary Checks
BATERRY - The cranking output obtained from the motor is affected by the condition
and charge of the battery, the circuit’s wiring, and the engine’s cranking requirement.
The battery should be checked and charged as needed before testing the starting
system.
CABLES -Check the wiring and cables for clean, tight connections. Loose or dirty
connections will cause excessive voltage drops. Cables can be corroded by battery
acid, and contact with engine parts and other metal surfaces can fray the cable
insulation. Frayed insulation can cause a dead short that can seriously damage some of
the electrical units of the vehicle.
Cables should also be checked to make sure theyare not undersized or too long. When
checking cablesand wiring, always check the maxi-fuses and/or fusiblelinks for the
system. When one has failed, alwaystroubleshoot the system and locate the cause
beforereplacing the fuse or link.
OIL -Make certain that the engine is filled with proper weight oil as recommended by the
vehicle manufacturer. Heavier-than-specified oil when coupled with low operating
temperatures can drastically lower cranking speed to the point where the engine does
not start and excessively high current is drawn by the starter.
IGNITION SWITCH -Check the ignition switch for loose mounting,damaged wiring, sticking
contacts, and loose connections.
SAFETYSWITCH - Check the wiring and mounting of the safetyswitch, if so equipped,
and make certain the switch isproperly adjusted.
MAGNETIC SWITCH AND STARTER MOTOR - Check the mounting, wiring,
andconnections of the magnetic switch and starter motor.
PINION GEAR - Also, be sure the starter pinion is properly adjusted.
The cranking voltage test measures the availablevoltage to the starter during cranking.
To perform thetest, disable the ignition or use a remote starter switchto bypass the ignition
switch. Normally, the remotestarter switch leads are connected to the positive terminalof
the battery and the starter terminal of thesolenoid or relay.
Refer to the servicemanual for specific instructions on the model car being tested.
1. Connect the voltmeter’s negative lead toa good chassis ground.
2. Connect the positive lead tothe starter motor feed at the starter relay or solenoid.
3. Activate the starter motor and observe the voltagereading.
4. Compare the reading to the specificationsgiven in the service manual.
Normally, 9.6 volts is theminimum required.
Figure 1.1-2 Use a remote starter switch to bypass the control circuit and ignition system.
Test Conclusions:
- If the reading is above specifications but the starter motor still cranks poorly, the
starter motor is faulty.
- If the voltage reading is lower than specifications, a cranking current test and circuit
resistance test should be performed to determine ifthe problem is caused by high
resistance in the startercircuit or an engine problem.
The cranking current test measures the amount ofcurrent the starter circuit draws to
crank the engine.Nearly all starter current testers use an inductivepickupto measure the
current draw.
Figure 1.1-3It is important to remember to move the inductive lead to the vehicle’s system after checking the
battery.
The starter circuit is made up of the insulated circuitand the ground circuit. The insulated
circuit includesall of the high current cables and connections fromthe battery to the starter
motor.
Proceed to the ground circuit resistance test outlinedin the next section.
If the reading indicates a voltageloss above specifications,
1. Move the negative lead ofthe tester progressively closer to the battery,
2. Crankingthe engine at each test point.
Normally, a voltagedrop of 0.1 volt is the maximum allowed across alength of cable.
Test Conclusions -When excessive voltage drop isobserved, the trouble is located
between that pointand the preceding point tested. It is a damagedcable or poor
The starter relay by-pass test is a simple way to determine if the relay is operational.
CAUTION!
Make sure the vehicle’s transmission is in park or neutral before doing this test. The starter motor can
move the vehicle, which could injure you and others around you.
Test Conclusions - If the engine cranks with the jumper installed and did not before the
relay was bypassed, the starter relay is defective and should be replaced.
The ground circuit provides the return path to thebattery for the current supplied to the
starter by theinsulated circuit. This circuit includes the starter-to-engine,engine-to-
chassis, and chassis-to-batteryground terminal connections.
Figure 1.1-4 Setups for checking voltage drop across the ground circuit.
Test Conclusions - Good results would be less than a0.2 volt drop for a 12-volt
system. A voltage drop inexcess of this indicates the presence of a poor groundcircuit
connection, resulting from a loose startermotor bolt, a poor battery ground terminal post
connector,or a damaged or undersized ground systemwire from the battery to the
engine block.
Isolate thecause of excessive voltage drop in the same manneras recommended in the
insulated circuit resistancetest by moving the positive (+) voltmeter lead
progressivelycloser to the battery. If the ground circuittests out satisfactorily and a
starter problem exists,move on to the control circuit test.
The control circuit test examines all the wiring andcomponents used to control the magnetic
switch,whether it is a relay, a solenoid acting as a relay, or astarter motor-mounted
solenoid.
High resistance in the solenoid switch circuitreduces current flow through the solenoid
windings,which can cause improper functioning of the solenoid.In some cases of high
resistance, it may notfunction at all.
2. Check the vehicle wiring diagram, if possible, toidentify all control circuit components.
These normallyinclude the ignition switch, safety switch, thestarter solenoid winding, or
a separate relay.
Test Conclusions -Generally, good results would beless than 0.5 volt, indicating that
the circuit conditionis good.
If the voltage reading exceeds 0.5 volt, it isusually an indication of excessive resistance.
However, on certain vehicles, a slightly higher voltage lossmay be normal.
Identify the point of high resistance by moving thenegative test lead back toward the
battery’s positive terminal,eliminating one wire or component at a time.
A reading of more than 0.1 volt across any one wire or switch is usually an indication of
trouble.
If a highreading is obtained across the safety switch used onan automatic transmission,
check the adjustment ofthe switch according to the manufacturer’s servicemanual.
Clutch-operated safety switches cannot beadjusted. They must be replaced.
This test detects a slipping starter drive withoutremoving the starter from the vehicle.
1. First, disablethe ignition system or bypass the ignition switch witha remote starter
switch.
2. Turn the ignition switch tostart and hold it in this position for several seconds.
3. Repeat the procedure at least three times to detect anintermittent condition.
Test Conclusions –
If the starter cranks the enginesmoothly, that is an indication that the starter drive
isfunctioning properly.
If the engine stops crankingand the starter spins noisily at high speed, the drive
isslipping and should be replaced.
If the drive is not slipping, but the engine is notbeing cranked, inspect the flywheel for
missing ordamaged teeth.
1. Remove the starter from the vehicleand check its drive components.
2. Inspect the pinion gear teeth for wear and damage.
3. Test the overrunning clutch mechanism.
If good, the overrunning clutchshould turn freely in one direction but not in theother. A
bad clutch will turn freely in the overrundirection or not at all.
If a drive locks up, it can destroythe starter by allowing the starter to spin at more
than15 times engine speed.
No ignition system is maintenance free. All have parts that deteriorate, wear, and
sometimes fail. Various inspections, tests, and services are performed on the ignition
system to help prolong normal engine operation. Many of these procedures are the same
for both contact-point and electronic ignition systems.
When performing ignition-system service, look for the vehicle emission control
information(VECI) label in the engine compartment. The VECI label has specifications and
tune-up instructions for the engine in the vehicle. The information includes firing order, how
to set ignition timing, recommended spark plug, and spark-plug gap.
Begin all diagnosis by gathering as much information as possible from the customer. Then
conduct a careful visual inspection. The system should be checked for obvious problems.
Although no-start problems and incorrect ignition timing are caused by the primary circuit,
the secondary circuit can be the cause of driveability problems and should be carefully
checked. In addition to the ignition system, inspect all related electrical connectors or fuses,
vacuum lines, air intake system, and cooling system.
Also check available service information that may relate to the symptoms. Symptoms
commonly caused by ignition system problems include (keep in mind that the ignition
system is not the only thing that can cause these):
IGNITION-SYSTEM TESTING
SPARK TEST
When an engine cranks normally but does not start, make aspark test (Figure 1.1-5). This
quick check of the ignition system determines if high-voltage surges from the coil
secondary winding reach the spark plugs.
1. Disconnect the spark-plug cable from a spark plug.
2. Insert a metal extender into the terminal at the end of thecable.
3. Using insulated pliers, hold the extender about3/8 inch [10 mm] from the cylinder head
or block (Figure 1.1-5A). Or attach the cable terminal to a spark tester (Figure1.1-5B).
4. Then fasten the tester to a good ground on theengine.
Figure 1.1-5 making a spark test (A) using insulated pliers and (B) using a spark tester.
CAUTION~
Hold secondary cables with insulated pliers made of nonconductive material. Do not use
metal pliers with insulated handles. The spark in a high-energy ignition system can jump an
inch [25.4 mm] or more. It could jump around or through the insulation and give you a
dangerous shock. Be sure there is no fuel or fuel vapor near where the spark will occur.
The spark could ignite the fuel causing a fire or explosion.
TRIGGERING TEST
All ignition systems have a switch (contact points or electronic) that turns the primary
current on and off. This switching action sends pulses of dc current through the coil primary
winding. If the primary current does not pulse on and off, the magnetic field in the coil does
not build up and collapse. Then no high-voltage surge appears in the secondary circuit.
When no spark occurs during a spark test, use an electronic circuit tester or a digital logic
probeto make a triggering test of the primary circuit.
Follow the connecting procedure in the manufacturer's operating instructions. Then:
1. Contact the coil negativeterminal or lead with the probe tip.
2. Crank the engine.
3. Thepulse LED should flash on and off.
This shows the triggeringof the primary circuit as it switches the primary current on and off.
If the LED does not flash, the triggeringsystem is not working.
Carful!
A 12-volt test lightcan be used to make a primary-triggering test on a contact-point ignition
system. However, this test light must not be used on some electronic ignition systems. The
test light connects in parallel. This can cause excessive current flow which damages the
ignition module and electronic control module (ECM).
OSCILLOSCOPE PATTERNS
Figure 1.1-6Oscilloscope waveform, or trace, showing onecomplete spark-plug firing cycle in the secondary
circuit. The dwell section is the time period during which current flows through the primary circuit .
The parade or display pattern (Fig. 1.1-7a) shows all plugs firing in a single line. The
pattern reads from left to right in the firing order. The firing line for cylinder 1 is on the right.
In the stacked or raster pattern (Fig. 1.1-7b), each spark-plug firing cycle appears one
above the other in the firing order. This allows a comparison among the traces to show any
abnormal conditions in one or more cylinders. The superimposed pattern (Fig. 1.1-
7c)places all traces on top of each other. Then the variation among cylinders can be seen.
Fig. 1.1-7 Three ways to display ignition secondary voltages for all cylinders in an engine.
IGNITION-SYSTEM MAINTENANCE
Many parts in the ignition system should be inspected or replaced at the time or mileage
given in the vehicle maintenance schedule. These include the spark plugs, spark-plug
cables, and distributor cap and rotor (if used).
VISUAL INSPECTION
Make a visual inspection if parts fail or other problems occur in the ignition system. This will
locate and identify many troubles and potential troubles.
To disconnect a cable, grasp the boot, twist and pull at the same time. Do not pull on
the cable. Pull on the boot, or use a spark-plug boot puller. It has fingers that fit behind
the boot. Some Hall-effect distributors have push-in cable terminals that lock in place in
the cap.
To detach the cables, remove the cap. Use needle-nose pliers to release the terminals.
Clean dirty cables and boots with waterless hand cleaner or liquid detergent (soap).
Then wipe dry. Examine the boots and cable insulation for brittleness, bums, cracks,
and other damage.
Bend each cable or wrap it around your finger. Cracks will open and be easily seen.
Any of these conditions allows high-voltage leakage and causes engine miss. Some
manufacturers recommend coating the inside of each boot with silicone grease before
installation.
To install new secondary cables or a new cap, replace one cable at a time.
Grasp the boot and push the terminal and boot into the proper tower until the terminal
seats.
Then position each cable correctly in the cable brackets and looms. This helps prevent
cable damage and cross-firing.
Be sure each cable is in its specified position. Improperly positioned cables may allow
an induced voltage to affect a nearby sensor or the ECM. This can set trouble codes
and cause drive ability problems.
When replacing the cap, transfer the spark-plug cables to the new cap or install new
cables.
Install the cap on the distributor. Be sure the cap is properly positioned and seated. A
locating slot or lug in the cap fits a matching section of the distributor housing. If the cap is
not seated when the engine cranks, the rotor will hit the cap and probably break.
Ignition coils, like all parts that contain electrical windings, can be checked with an
ohmmeter. In an ignition coil there are two separate windings and each has a different
resistance value. This is due to the wire size and the number of windings. Always refer to
the specifications prior to testing a coil. If a measurement is not within specifications, the
coil or coil assembly should be replaced.
The secondary windings of a waste spark ignition coil are not checked in the same way
as other coils. Each coil has two secondary terminals. The coil is checked by connecting
the meter across the two secondary terminals. As with other coils, compare the readings to
specifications. COP coils are checked in the same way as other coils.
Spark Plugs
Spark plug replacement is part of the preventive maintenance program for all vehicles. The
recommended replacement interval depends on a number of factors but ranges from
20,000 to 100,000 miles (32,000 to 160,000 km).
Removal of an engine’s spark plugs is pretty straightforward. Remove the cables from each
plug, being careful not to pull on the cables. Instead, grasp the boot and gently twist it off.
(To save time and avoid confusion later, use masking tape to mark each of the cables with
the number of the plug it attaches to.)
Using a spark plug socket and ratchet, loosen each plug a couple of turns. A spark plug
socket should be used because it has an internal rubber bushing to prevent plug insulator
breakage. Spark plug sockets can have either a 3⁄8- or 1⁄2- inch drive, and most have an
external hex so that they can be turned using an open end or box wrench.
Once the plugs are loose; use compressed air to blow dirt away from the base of the plugs.
Then remove the plugs, making sure their gaskets have also been removed (if applicable).
When the spark plugs are removed,
They should be set in order so the spark plug from each cylinder can be examined.
Check the threads in the cylinder head for damage. Normally you can do this by feel as
you remove a spark plug.
If the plug does not turn out smoothly after it is loose, the threads may be damaged.
Often the threads can be cleaned up with a spark plug thread chaser.
Also, check the threads on the spark plug. Look for damage or metal embedded in the
threads, as these are sure signs of problems.
If the cylinder head is aluminum, it may be necessary to install a threaded insert into the
spark plug bore.
Once the spark plugs have been removed, it is important to “read” them. In other words,
inspect them closely, noting in particular any deposits on the plugs and the degree of
electrode erosion.
PHOTOSEQUENCE - 3
Both new and used spark plugs should have their air gaps set to manufacturer’s
specifications.
Always use round wire gauges when checking and setting the gap.
After the gap has been adjusted, make sure that the ground electrode is as horizontal
as it can be.
Always check the air gap of a new spark plug before installing it. Never assume the gap
is correct just because the plug is new.
Do not try to reduce a plug’s air gap by tapping the side electrode on a bench. Use a
spark plug gapping tool to bend the ground electrode to its correct height. When doing
this, be careful not to contact or put pressure on the center electrode.
Some engines are equipped with spark plugs that have more than one ground
electrode. The gap between the center electrode and each ground electrode should be
checked. If the gap between the center electrode and one of the ground electrodes is
less than that of the others, spark will occur only at the smallest gap.
During installation, the distributor must be timed to the engine if the crankshaft has turned
while the distributor was out. Locate the firing order and cylinder numbering illustration for
the engine. This is in the vehicle service manual and auto repair manuals. Note the position
of the cap latches or screws.
Install the distributor in the engine in the same position. Also note the location of the
number I terminal on the distributor cap. When the number 1 piston is at TDC ending
the compression stroke, the rotor tip should point to the number 1 terminal in the cap.
1. Remove the number I spark plug. Locate the timing marks. Most engines have a
rotating mark that aligns with a specified stationary mark when ignition timing is correct.
The timing marks are usually on the crankshaft vibration damper and the engine front
cover. Some are on the flywheel and the housing.
2. Place a shop towel over your finger and cover the sparkplug hole. Do not allow your
finger to enter the spark-plug hole! Crank the engine with the starting motor until you
feel compression pressure push against your finger.
3. Continue bumping the engine with the starting motor until the timing marks align. This
shows that the number I piston is in firing position.
4. Install the distributor, making sure the rotor tip aligns with the cap terminal for the
number 1 spark plug.
5. Install but do not tighten the distributor clamp and bolt.
6. Rotate the distributor until the primary trigger opens the primary circuit. This occurs
when:
a. The contact points start to open.
b. The reluctor tip passes alignment with the pole piece.
c. The shutter leaves the air-gap in the Hall-effect switch.
d. The rotating disk interrupts the light beam striking the photodiode.
7. Hold the cap in its mounting position above the distributor.
8. Check that the rotor tip aligns with the number I terminal on the cap. Install the cap.
2. The other timing, or spark advance, advances and retards the spark from the basic-
timing setting, primarily as engine speed and load change. On some distributors, it is
mechanically controlled by centrifugal- and vacuum-advance mechanisms. Other
ignition systems have electronic spark advance. It is used on many electronic
distributors and in all distributor-less ignition systems.
Contact-point distributors should have the timing checked periodically. Always check and
adjust the dwell first. As the contact points and rubbing block wear, ignition timing and dwell
change. Electronic ignition systems normally do not require periodic timing adjustments
once the timing is set.
Adjusting the basic timing so the spark occurs at the correct instant with the engine idling is
called setting the ignition timing. On most engines with a distributor, this is performed by
turning the distributor slightly. Some engines have a distributor that mounts in a fixed
position. The timing may be adjusted by installing a different reluctor. Ignition timing is
usually not adjustable in a distributor-less ignition system.
Check the timing with the engine at normal operating temperature and idling at the
specified speed.
Eliminate all spark advances mechanical and electronic, so the engine is running on
only basic timing. The low engine speed prevents spark advance from the centrifugal-
advance mechanism in the distributor.
Removing the vacuum hose from the vacuum-advance unit disables the vacuum
advance. Plug the hose to prevent an air leak into the intake manifold.
You cannot see the rapid periodic alignment of the timing marks in normal light. However,
the stroboscopic timing light produces instant flashes that match engine speed. This makes
the marks appear to stand still.
The timing light usually has a set of power leads that connect to the car battery.
Another lead with an inductive pickup clamps around the number 1 spark-plug cable.
Pressing the trigger causes the light to flash every time the number 1 spark-plug fires.
To adjust the timing, slightly loosen the distributor hold-down clamp bolt.
Aim the timing light at the timing marks.
Turn the distributor in its mounting. The rotating timing mark will move ahead or back.
When the timing is correct, the specified timing marks align.
Tighten the distributor clamp bolt.
Then recheck the timing to ensure it did not change as the clamp was tightened.
Remove the timing light and restore spark advance operation.
CAUTION!
Keep your hands and the timing-light leads away from the fan and drive belts. Never stand
in line With the fan. A blade might fly off and strike you.
Directions: Answer all the questions listed below. Use the Answer sheet provided in the
next page:
You can ask you teacher for the copy of the correct answers.
Answer Sheet
Score = ___________
Rating: ____________
Many of the tools used when servicing, diagnosing, and repairing the starting and charging
systems are used for general electrical system service, such as the digital multimeter
(DMM). Other tools as shown here are needed to measure the high amperage found in
starting and charging circuits.
1. A starting/charging system tester, is used to measure voltage and current flow. This
type of tester can be used to test battery capacity, starting, and charging system
performance. Often referred to as VAT tester for volt/amp tester.
2. Conductance testers are used to test batteries, starters, and generator output. A
conductance tester is used to send a small AC current through the battery. This tester is
small, easy to use, and inexpensive compared to the larger VAT-type testers.
3. Current clamps can be used with a DMM or scope when you are testing the starting and
charging systems. An inductive current clamp is used to measure cranking and charging
current.
4. Hydrometer 10. timing light
5. Multimeter 11. spark plug socket
6. circuit tester 12. pair of lineman’s gloves
7. lab scopes 13. screwdrivers
8. scan tool 14. Battery terminal puller
9. Various scan tool connectors for 15. Battery brushes
OBD-II systems 16. Remote starter switches
1. Inspect the battery. It might be necessary to charge the battery to restore it to a fully
charged state. If the battery cannot be charged, it must be replaced. Also, make sure
that the posts and cable clamps are clean and tight, because a bad connection can
cause reduced current flow.
2. Inspect all system wiring and connections. Many systems contain fusible links or maxi-
fuses to protect against overloads; check them.
3. Inspect the generator and regulator mountings for loose or missing bolts. Replace or
tighten as needed. Remember, most generators and regulators complete their ground
through their mounting. If the mountings are not clean and tight, a high resistant ground
will result.
4. Inspect the AC generator drive belt. Loose drive belts are a major source of charging
problems.
5. Before adjusting belt tension, check for proper pulley alignment.
DMM, or scope. A Hall-effect sensor should be checked with a DMM or scope. Compare
your findings to specifications.
STEP 8- If the pickup unit is good, suspect the ignition module. Make sure all wiring to and
from the module are good.
STEP 1- Connect a test spark plug to the spark plug wire and ground the spark plug case.
STEP 2- Crank the engine and observe the spark plug. If there is a bright, snapping, blue
spark, the ignition is working properly.
STEP 3- If the spark is weak or there is no spark; check the wiring to and from the PCM.
STEP 4- If the power and ground circuits for the PCM are okay, connect a voltmeter from
the input (battery) terminal on each coil pack to ground. With the ignition switch on, the
voltmeter should read 12 volts. If the voltage is less than that, check the system’s wiring
diagram to determine what is included in the coil’s power feed circuit.
STEP 5- If battery voltage is present, check the voltage drop across each of the
components and wires to identify the location of an open or high resistance.
STEP 6- If none is found, check the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors. Both of
these sensor circuits can be checked with a voltmeter, ohmmeter, or DSO. If the sensors
are receiving the correct amount of voltage and have good low-resistance ground circuits,
their output should be a digital or a pulsing voltage signal while the engine is cranking.
Compare their resistance readings to specifications. If any readings are abnormal, the
circuit needs to be repaired or the sensor needs to be replaced.
To remove a distributor:
1. Disconnect the electrical connector and the vacuum advance hose, if the distributor has
them.
2. Remove the distributor cap and note the position of the rotor. On some vehicles, it may
be necessary to remove the spark plug wires from the cap prior to cap removal.
3. Note the position of the vacuum advance, then remove the distributor hold-down bolt
and clamp.
4. Pull the distributor from the engine. Most distributors will need to be twisted as they are
pulled out of their bore. Note the direction of rotation.
5. Once the distributor is removed, install a shop towel in the distributor opening to keep
foreign material out of the engine block.
The following procedure may be followed to install the distributor and time it to
the engine:
1. Lubricate the O-ring on the distributor shaft.
2. Position the rotor so that it is aligned with the mark made to the distributor housing prior
to removal.
3. Align the distributor to the mark made on the engine block during removal.
4. Lower the distributor into the engine block.
5. Remove the distributor and move the rotor backward the same amount.
6. Make sure the distributor housing is fully seated against the engine block.
7. Rotate the distributor a small amount so the timer core teeth and pickup teeth are
aligned.
8. Install the distributor hold-down clamp and bolt and leave the bolt slightly loose.
9. Install the spark plug wires in the direction of distributor shaft rotation and in the correct
cylinder firing order.
10. Connect the wiring for the distributor. The vacuum advance hose is usually left
disconnected until the timing is set with the engine running.
Task 1.
Task 2.
Task N.
1- BOOKS
2- WEB ADDRESSES (PUTTING LINKS)