SEWING TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

Lesson 1
 DRESSMAKING

• Sewing equipment different

tools are used in garment
construction. The skillful use
of the different sewing
equipment will help take
body measurement and
drafting pattern with
accuracy and speed.
 DRESSMAKING

• Success in sewing calls for

the right tools at the right
time. All tools must be
appropriate in a proper
order, and one must know
how to use them to save
time and produce the best
result.
 DRESSMAKING

• This lesson will provide

knowledge and skills of the
different tools and equipment
which are necessary in sewing.
A complete set of sewing
tools and equipment are
presented to help the
students work faster.
MEASURING
TOOLS
 TAPE MEASURE

• A flexible measuring device

used in taking body
measurements. The front has
the measurement of 150
centimeters and 60 inches
on the other side. Fiberglass
tape is commonly used by
dressmakers.
 SEWING GAUGE

• A small ruler with a sliding guide

and is about six inches long. This
gauge is used for measurements
at hem lines, buttonholes and
areas where other small
measurements require checking,
such as pleats and tucks. The
gauge is usually made of metal or
plastic.
 RULERS

• A ruler measuring 12 inches

or even 18 inches, either clear
or solid. It is a useful tool to
have for measuring and
drawing straight seam lines
and cutting lines. It also aids in
connecting lines. A clear ruler
is also a good tool for
marking buttonholes.
 YARDSTICK

• A yardstick is made of
smooth, shellacked
hardwood or metal. It
is used for marking
hemlines and checking
grainlines when laying
out the pattern.
 L-SQUARE

• The tailor square or "L" is

used to transfer
measurements to the draft
pattern. It also divides the
garment into the desired
measurement. It has perfect
squares and is useful in
making straight lines and
numbers.
 L-SQUARE

• It can also function as a tape

measure. It has two arms
connected perpendicularly.
a. The longer arm is twenty-
four (24) inches long.
b. b. The shorter arm is
fourteen (14) inches long.
 FRENCH CURVE

• This is used to shape

the depth of the neck
hole and armhole of
the pattern.
 CUTTING
TOOLS

Cutting tools are instruments that

serve well if properly maintained.
Sharp cutting tools make clean cuts
and well-defined notches and they do
not damage fabric. On the other hand,
dull tools slow the cutting process,
and make your hand and wrist tire
easily. Sewing cutting tools should not
be used for other household task.
Cutting tools must be sharpened
regularly and the joints are oiled
occasionally for better use.
 BENT-HANDLED
DRESSMAKER’S SHEARS

• These are made of quality

steel and hold a sharp cutting
edge. The blades move easily
and cut smoothly along the
entire length and the points
should come together. Shears
have the length of 7- 12
inches and are satisfactory for
most apparel fabrics.
 BENT-HANDLED
DRESSMAKER’S SHEARS

a. All steels, chrome-plated

shears are for heavy duty
cutting
b. Stainless steel blades and
plastic handles are fine for
lightweight fabrics
c. A serrated edge shears give
maximum cutting control
and is used for synthetic
fibers and slippery knits
 PINKING SHEARS

• This is popular in zigzagging

or scalloped edge or for seam
finishes. This is used to finish
seams and raw edges and to
create decorative edges on
many types of fabric. It cuts a
ravel-resistant edge. This is
not satisfactory for straight
cutting.
 CUTTING SCISSORS

•Trimming scissor
• It is 3-4 inches long.
It is used for
trimmings, clipping
threads and snipping
slashes.
 CUTTING SCISSORS

• Embroidery scissor
• It has 4-5 inches finely
tapered blades. Both
points are sharp for use
in working with fine
details in delicate fabrics
and in embroidery work.
 CUTTING SCISSORS

•Buttonhole
scissors
•This is intended
for making
buttonholes.
 THREAD CLIPPERS

• Thread clippers are a

handy little spring-loaded
cutting tool that allows
for the snipping of
threads. These clippers are
specifically used to snip
threads and they are not
designed to cut fabric.
 SEAM RIPPER

• Seam rippers are specifically

designed for ripping out
stitches from seams, either
as a result of an error or
during alterations. They
should be used carefully to
prevent damage to the
fabric.
 ROTARY CUTTER AND
MAT

• It is an adaptation of the giant

rotary cutter used by the
garment industry. It works like
a pizza cutter and can be used
by left or right-handed sewers.
The rotary cutter is available
in different sizes with different
blades. When using a rotary
cutter, work on a cutting mat
to protect the blade and the
cutting surface.
 MARKING
TOOLS

Marking tools are required for

transferring pattern
markings to garment fabric pieces and
for making
alterations on garments.
C HA LK PENC ILS /DRES S MA K ER
PENCIL

• This is available in white

or pastel shades. This
chalk pencil is used to
make fine lines on
fabric. It has an erasing
brush at one end.
LIQUID MARKING PEN

• Liquid marking pens come in

two types. There is one that
washes out and one that fades
after 48 hours. Those that
wash out should not be used
on fabric that show water
marks. The mark should be
removed before pressing the
fabric.
 TAILOR’S CHALK

• This is essential as a
marker for use on
materials. Tailor‘s chalk
is available in a range of
colors and is Removed
by brushing.
 WAX CHALK

• This is available in
black or white and is
used for woolen
fabrics. Wax can be
removed by pressing.
 TRACING WHEEL

• There are two types of

tracing wheels, those with a
serrated edge and those with
a smooth edge. The serrated
edge wheel produces dots on
the fabric and is suitable for
most types of fabrics. The
smooth edge wheel is best for
delicate fabrics and unlike the
serrated edge will not pierce
more delicate fabrics. The
smooth edge wheel creates a
solid line.
 DRESSMAKER’S
CARBON PAPER

• Dressmaker‘s carbon
paper also called
dressmaker‘s tracing
paper is a specially waxed
carbon paper that
transfer‘s the tracing
wheel‘s markings to the
fabric.
 DRESSMAKER’S
CARBON PAPER

• A color of tracing paper

should be chosen that is
close to the color of the
fabric. Different brands of
tracing paper have different
instructions; therefore, the
instructions for the
particular brand that is
purchased should be
followed.
PINNING AND
SEWING
TOOL
 PINCUSHION

• A pincushion holds
the straight pins and
needles while
working to prevent
accidents.
 HAND NEEDLE

• Used in making
temporary stitches and
buttonholes. Sizes of 7
to 10 are for general
hand sewing.
 SEWING NEEDLE
THREADER

• It aids in putting the thread to

the needle. It consists of two
parts. The handle and the
wire. The end of the wire that
is away from the holder is
folded. Place the folded wire
of the needle threader
through the eye of the sewing
needle.
 THIMBLE

• A small hard pitted

cup worn for
protection on the
finger that pushes the
needle in sewing.
MATERIALS
 FABRIC

• The Fabric is the cloth

used in making garments.
The plain cotton fabrics,
flour sack or catcha is the
most appropriate material
for beginners because
these are very easy to
handle.
 THREAD

• The thread is used in

assembling or constructing
the parts of the garment.
Threads vary in sizes. Heavy
fabrics need stronger
threads. Threads should have
the same color with that of
the fabric used.
TYPES OF SEWING MACHINES
WELL-SELECTED SEWING
MACHINE IS ESSENTIAL
FOR ACHIEVING GOOD
R E S U LT S . I T S H O U L D B E
U S E D C O R R E C T LY I N
AC C O R DA N C E W I T H T H E
JOB REQUIREMENTS.
 LOCKSTITCH
SEWING
MACHINE

• This is usually used

in homes and
sometimes in school.
This is also called
“Domestic Sewing
Machine”. It is run by
foot and may also be
converted to electric
power machine.
 HI-SPEED
LOCKSTITCH
SEWING MACHINE

• This is sometimes
called ”straight
stitching machine”
or industrial sewing
machine. It has
automatic
lubrication and is
used by tailors and
dressmakers.
OV E R E D G I N G
MACHINE

• Other companies
call it “small
machine”. It
finishes the raw
edges of the
pattern for
construction.
 E M B R O I D E RY
MACHINE

• This is used in
making fancy stitches
and in making
different kinds of
embroidery stitches
on fabrics for the
Barong Tagalog,
pillowcases, linen, and
other novelty items.
BUTTON HOLER
MACHINE

• Thisis used in
making
buttonholes on
garments.
 BUTTON
AT TAC H M E N T
MACHINE

• Thisis used in
attaching
buttons to the
garments.
DOUBLE NEEDLE
MACHINE

• This is used in the

construction of
the different kinds
of clothing
especially for the
inseam, outseam
and side seam.
 B A RTA C K I N G
MACHINE

• This is used in
reinforcing the
opening and
closing of
pockets
Two Major Parts
of the Lockstitch
Sewing Machine
• The two major
parts of the lock
stitch sewing
machine are the
upper and lower
parts.
 PA RT S O F S E W I N G
M AC H I N E I N T H E A R M
1. Spool Pin is the thread holder.
2. Thread Guide keeps the thread in position.
3. Thread Take up Lever releases the thread and
interlocks with the bobbin thread.
4. Presser bar lifter moves the presser foot.
5. Tension controls the looseness and tightness of
stitches.
6. Needle Bar holds the needle in place.
7. Needle Clamp holds and tightens the needle.
8. Presser Foot holds the fabric in place while sewing.
9. Needle is a slender tool attached in the needle
clamp used for sewing.
10. Bobbin Winder controls the bobbin while
winding thread.
11. Stitch regulator checks the length of the stitches.
12. Balance Wheel sets the mechanism in motion.
13. Belt connects the balance wheel to the drive
wheel.
14. Stop Motion Screw hinders moving when
loosened and starts
 PA RT S O F S E W I N G
M AC H I N E U N D E R T H E
BED
1. Feed Dog moves the fabric while sewing.
2. Throat plate is the windows of the feed dog and it is
where the bobbin threads come out.
4. Slide plate is a movable plate that covers the shuttle
and bobbin case.
4. Shuttle holds the bobbin case while sewing.
5. Bobbin is a metal spool for winding thread.
6. Bobbin Case holds the bobbin.
T H E L OW E R PA RT S O F
THE LOCK STITCH
S E W I N G M AC H I N E
• The lower parts of
the sewing machine
are the cabinet and
the stand. The cabinet
has drawers and screw
on the hinges for the
attachment of the
head. The following
are the lower parts of
the sewing machine
and their uses:
1. Band Wheel leads the balance wheel through the belt
connection.
2. Band Wheel Crank moves the band wheel.
3. Pitman Rod holds the treadle to band wheel crank.
4. Belt Guide holds the belt to its place.
5. Belt Shifter removes the belt from the wheel.
6. Dress Guard protects the dress from the wheel.
7. Treadle is where the feet are stationed to drive the band wheel
through the pitman rod.
8. Legs support the cabinet of the machine.
9. Cabinet holds the head of the machine by interlocking screw
on the hinges.
TAKING
BODY
MEASUREMENTS
Parts of body to be
measured can be taken
in:

• Horizontal
measurement
• Vertical measurement
• Circumferential
measurement
Neck - Loosely measure
around the circumference
at the base of your neck.

Bust - Lift your arms to

the side.

Measure around your

body crossing over the
fullest part of your bust.
Bust to Bust -
Measure from your
one nipple to your
other nipple.
Upper Bust - Measure
around the torso directly
above the bust line. From
armhole to armhole +-
8cm down from neck.

Lower Bust - Measure

around the torso directly
under the bustline.
Waist - Measure around
the waist at the narrowest
natural waistline point,
allowing 2 fingers between
your waist and tape
measure.
Hips - Measure around the
fullest part of your hips. As a
guide, this is often 20cm
below your natural waistline.
Stand with your
knees together.
Shoulder to Bust -
Measure from tip of the
shoulder to the
centre of bust (nipple).
Front Shoulder to
Waist - Measure from
tip of shoulder over
bust to natural
waistline.
Shoulder to
Shoulder -
Measure across
the back of neck
from socket of
one shoulder to
socket of the
other shoulder.
Shoulder to Neck -
Measure from base of
neck along top of
shoulder to the
shoulder socket.
Down Center Back -
Measure from nape of
neck to natural
waist.
Back Shoulder to
Waist - Measure from
tip of shoulder to
natural waist line.
Across Back -
Measure from
armhole across
back to armhole
positioning tape
measure + - 8cm
down from nape
of neck.
Sleeve Hole -
Measure around
the shoulder under
the armpit.
Bicep - Measure
around the fullest
part of the upper
arm.
Elbow - Do a fairly
loose measurement
around the bent
elbow.
Under Arm - Measure
from under the arm.
Start at the armpit
to the wrist.
Over Arm - Measure
from outer shoulder
socket on outside of
arm, with a bent arm,
to the wrist.
Side Seam - Measure
from under armpit to
natural waistline down.
Upper Arm – Measure
from the outer
shoulder socket on
outside of arm to crook
of elbow.
PRINCIPLES OF
DESIGN
 The principles of designs are
concepts used to organize or
arrange the structural elements of
design. These the ways in which
these principles are applied the
affects the expressive content, or
the message of the work.
 a. Symmetrically or the
formal balance - can be
described as having equal
"weight" on equal sides of a
centrally placed like a see
saw. This is an easy way of
balancing but such balance
lends monotony to the design.
According to this principle, from the
centered of the dress, design should
be identified on both sides may be
achieved ways:
 b. Asymmetrically or the
informal balance – When
The structure decoration and
accessories are different both
sides from the center of the
design. In this design
attraction both sides is
created by using different
According to this principle, from the accessories.
centered of the dress, design should
be identified on both sides may be
achieved ways:
Proportion - is the
pleasing relationship of
all parts of the object
with one another.
Proportion refers to the
relative size and scale
of the various elements
in a design. The issue is
the relationship
between objects, or
parts, of a whole.
Emphasis – every pleasing
design has one part that is
more interesting than any other.
This is the emphasis or the
center of interest.
Rhythm – these are smooth movement repeated again and
again. Rhythm is an important principle of art. It is created by
repeated use of the design. If there is rhythm in a design, the
eye would move easily from one part to the other.
RHYTHM CAN BE CREATED IN
THREE WAYS IN A DESIGN:
a. Repetition of lines, colors, or
accessories. Parallel lines are
formed by the use of seams,
buttons, embroidery, lace, etc.
which helps uninterrupted eye
movement.
RHYTHM CAN BE CREATED IN
THREE WAYS IN A DESIGN:
b. Radiation. Rhythm can also be
created by the radiated lines. These
lines are created by gathers Eyes
can move easily from one part to
the other on the small lines created
by gathers. Such lines can be seen
in gathers on neckline, arm and
skirt.
RHYTHM CAN BE CREATED IN
THREE WAYS IN A DESIGN:
c. Gradation. Rhythm can be
created by gradual change
of lines, shape or shade of
the color.
Harmony - means a
relationship of
different portion of a
design. Harmony
should be achieved
through judicious use
of color, shape, and
texture to give a
feeling of oneness.
ELEMENTS OF DESIGN
COLOR THEORY Grade 8
The first thing you
usually notice about
clothes or anything is
their color. Before
you start studying
which colors look
best together, you
should learn the
meaning of color
terms and the rules
that apply to colors.
PRIMARY COLORS – THE
SOURCES OF ALL COLORS,
EVEN THOUGH THERE ARE
THOUSANDS AND
THOUSANDS OF COLORS IN
THE WORLD, THEY ARE ALL
MADE UP OF THESE COLORS
– RED, BLUE AND YELLOW.
SECONDARY COLORS –
ARE PRODUCED WHEN MIXING
TWO EQUAL AMOUNT OF
PRIMARY COLORS. IF YOU MIX
EQUAL AMOUNT OR YELLOW
AND BLUE YOU WILL HAVE
GREEN, EQUAL PARTS OF RED
AND BLUE WILL HAVE VIOLET ,
AND RED AND YELLOW YOU
WILL HAVE ORANGE.
INTERMEDIATE COLORS –
ARE PRODUCED BY MIXING
TWO EQUAL AMOUNT OF
PRIMARY AND SECONDARY
COLORS. EXAMPLE, IF YOU MIX
EQUAL PARTS OF YELLOW
(PRIMARY COLOR) AND GREEN
(SECONDARY COLOR) YOU WILL
HAVE YELLOW-GREEN. NOTICED
THAT YELLOW-GREEN IS FOUND
BETWEEN YELLOW AND GREEN
ON THE COLOR WHEEL.
INTERMEDIATE COLORS
YELLOW + GREEN = YELLOW-GREEN
RED + VIOLET = RED-VIOLET
BLUE + GREEN = BLUE-GREEN
RED + ORANGE = RED-ORANGE
BLUE + VIOLET = BLUE-VIOLET
BLUE + ORANGE = BLUE-ORANGE
Double Complementary
Two neighboring colors and their
opposite colors
Three neighboring colors, one
of which is dominant

Colors opposite each

other in the color wheel

One color of different

shade

Three colors diagonal with The color in between three

each other spaces in color wheel
PURE COLOR

are the primary, secondary

and intermediate colors
because they have no white,
black and gray in them.
Pure colors are also called
“normal, true and basic
colors”
TINTS
when pure colors are mixed
with white, they are made
lighter. Example, when
white is added to red you
have pink. In other words
pink is a tint of red. The
more white you add, the
lighter the pink will be. Tints
are also called “pastels”.
SHADES
Shades – when pure
colors are mixed with
black, they are made
darker. Example, when
black is added to red
you have maroon, a
shade of red. The more
black you add, the more
darker you have.
GRAYED COLORS
most colors we used in
clothes are grayed colors
rather than bright, pure
colors you see on the color
wheel. Grayed colors are
also referred to as “soft
colors” or “dull colors". The
more gray you add, the
more duller the color will
be.
NEUTRALS
Neutrals – are white,
black and gray. They
look well with another
and with all other colors.
The more grayed colors
becomes, the more
different colors it will
harmonize with.
WARM AND COOL
COLORS
Cool colors – are green, blue-
green, blue, blue-violet, violet.
Blue is the coolest color. They
are adjacent to one another in
the color wheel.
Warm colors – are red, red-
orange, orange, yellow-orange,
and orange. Red is the warmest
color. They are also adjacent in
the color wheel.
QUALITIES OF COLORS
HUE
is the family group
name of a color. It
is the name of a
color. Ones they
are combined
differently and
given new names.
VALUE
refers to the
lightness or the tint
or the darkness of
the shade. The
scale of the value
colors are from the
very lightest tint to
the very darkest of
the shade.
INTENSITY
means the brightness or
dullness of a color. When
you refer to a color as
“bright” or “very bright”
or “dull” or “very dull”
you are describing its
intensity. Example, green
peppers are bright
yellow-green, while olives
are dull yellow green.
 The beauty of any color

COLOR SCHEMES
scheme depends upon how
well the colors harmonize. To
harmonize, colors must
appear to belong together.
 the easiest color
scheme to follow is
one that uses the
same color in
different values
and intensity.
Example, dark blue
suit with very dark
blue accessories
and a light blue
ONE-COLOR HARMONY blouse.
(MONOCHROMATIC COLOR)
 or analogous color
harmony. Since they are
near each other on the
color wheel, neighbor
color harmony. Example,
yellow-orange, orange,
and yellow green are
next to each other on
the color wheel;
therefore, a pleasing
adjacent color harmony
may be made from
ADJACENT COLOR HARMONY them.
 these are colors
that are opposite
in the color
wheel. Using
these colors may
be very pleasing.
COMPLEMENTARY COLOR
HARMONY
A. COMPLEMENTARY
COLORS
directly opposite in the
color wheel. Example,
red and green, blue
and orange, yellow
and violet.
SPLIT COMPLEMENTARY
COLORS
a variation of the
complementary color
scheme. In addition to
the base color, it uses
the two colors adjacent
to its complement.
TRIAD

A triadic color scheme

uses colors that are
evenly spaced around
the color wheel. Triadic
color harmonies tend to
be quite vibrant, even if
you use pale or
unsaturated versions of
your hues.