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WEAPONISING
HISTORY
THE VIOLENCE IN MAHARASHTRA
OVER AURANGZEB’S LEGACY IS ONLY
THE LATEST BATTLE IN THE HINDUTVA
CAMPAIGN TO REDRESS PERCEIVED
HISTORICAL WRONGS
FROM THE

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

T
he past, in India, refuses to rest in peace. Like VHP is working to build monuments to commemorate
a restless spectre, it keeps returning to haunt those heroes who stood against him.” This multi-voiced
the living—fuelling anger, inciting debate, and chorus may appear chaotic, but insiders say it syncs with the
increasingly dictating the direction of our politi- ideological diversity within the Sangh ecosystem—and
cal discourse. What ought to have remained the aligns with Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s “panch
domain of scholars and classrooms has entered the court- pran” (five resolves) of Amrit Kaal, which includes the goal
rooms, assemblies, and even the theatres of violence out of eliminating every trace of the “colonial mindset”.
on the streets. This week’s cover story examines a phe-
nomenon that is no longer an anomaly but a pattern: the
weaponisation of history for political ends. It is a subject
both urgent and uncomfortable. In Maharashtra, the latest
T herein lies the deeper dilemma. Whose version of history
are we cleansing? And who decides what is a “colonial
mindset”? Is the desire to reclaim pride in civilisational iden-
flashpoint is not a present-day economic crisis or infra- tity incompatible with democratic plurality? Can a modern
structure challenge but the grave of a long-dead Mughal nation afford to be so preoccupied with medieval wrongs
emperor—Aurangzeb, who died in 1707. that it forgets to correct contemporary injustices? This cover
What lit the fuse was the film Chhaava, a historical story does not simply chronicle controversy—it asks funda-
epic centred on Sambhaji, son of Chhatrapati Shivaji. In a mental questions. When historical memory is used as politi-
40-minute climax, it portrays Sambhaji’s gruesome torture cal fuel, it becomes combustible. We are witnessing how eas-
at the hands of Aurangzeb in agonising detail. Powerful ily old symbols can be recast into present-day provocations.
performances by Vicky Kaushal and Akshaye Khanna ens- Author Amish, in his guest column, calls for “civilisatio-
ured emotions were not confined to the screen. They spilled nal honour”, suggesting Aurangzeb’s bones be respectfully
over—into social media, the Maharashtra assembly, and sent to Pakistan. Historian Purushottam Agrawal warns
finally the streets. The debate that followed was against reducing Indian citizenship to a matter
less about art, more about ancestry, identity and of conferred “grace” rather than inherent “right”.
indignation. A sitting MLA, Abu Azmi, found The danger, he writes, lies in allowing a single
himself suspended from the assembly for offer- community’s narrative to dominate the na-
ing a sympathetic take on Aurangzeb. Hindutva tional imagination—making minorities feel
activists called for the demolition of the emper- like guests in their own homeland. But history,
or’s “tomb” in Khultabad, a grave that had lain if read wisely, also offers lessons in pluralism.
unbothered for centuries—even during Maratha In a letter to Aurangzeb, Shivaji reminded the
rule. Alleged desecration of Islamic symbols emperor of his illustrious forebear Akbar: “To
triggered riots in Nagpur, leaving one dead. rule justly is to understand the strength of
Maharashtra is not alone in being drawn January 29, 2018 diversity.” This was more than shrewd diploma-
into this time warp. Uttar Pradesh, Rajasthan cy, it was a possible vision of shared destiny. It is
and other states have seen similar eruptions—fights over this Shivaji—thoughtful, strategic and inclusive—we must
mosques, temples, dargahs, forgotten rulers and faded remember today. Not merely a warrior king, but a states-
manuscripts. The Gyanvapi mosque case in Varanasi, the le- man who understood that the strength of a nation lies in its
gal contest in Sambhal over the Shahi Jama Masjid, and the capacity to absorb differences without fragmenting.
vilification of Moinuddin Chishti’s dargah in Ajmer all point In reinterpreting our past, we must be wary of over-
to a deeper malaise: an India increasingly divided not by simplification. Every era is complex, every ruler contradic-
what it faces today, but by how it remembers yesterday. This tory. Turning history into a binary of heroes and villains
is not an accidental recurrence. It is the manifestation of a may satisfy the politics of the moment, but it impoverishes
deliberate strategy. Even after the Supreme Court’s Ayodhya the intellect of a civilisation. There is a fine line between
verdict sought to put a cap on fresh disputes, the movement reclaiming heritage and reliving vendettas. As a society, we
to seek revenge for history has only gathered pace. Even the must ask whether we are investing enough in the future or
RSS chief, Mohan Bhagwat, has called for closure, saying, simply mortgaging it to settle scores from centuries ago.
“We shouldn’t be looking for shivlings under every mosque.” India is poised to become one of the world’s top economies.
Yet, the movement seems to be doing precisely that. Legal But no real development can occur if national energy is con-
challenges have been mounted to the Places of Worship stantly drained by cultural score-settling. The arc of history
(Special Provisions) Act, 1991, which was designed to shelter bends forward—only if we let it. It is said that those who are
such monuments from fresh attacks or litigation. The obsessed with the past often forfeit the future. Let us ensure
court’s verdict on its constitutionality is still awaited. we don’t become a nation that forgets this truth.
While RSS spokespersons like Sunil Ambekar have
called debates on Aurangzeb “not relevant”, affiliates like
the VHP remain vocal and active. “We are against Aurang-
zeb’s glorification,” says VHP president Alok Kumar. “The (Aroon Purie)

A PR I L 7, 2 02 5 INDIA TODAY 3
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THE VIOLENCE IN MAHARASHTRA OVER AURANGZEB’S
LEGACY IS ONLY THE LATEST BATTLE IN THE HINDUTVA
Volume 50-Number 14; For the week CAMPAIGN TO REDRESS PERCEIVED HISTORICAL WRONGS
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 UPFRONT
PUNJAB: MANN RAJASTHAN’S
SHIFTS GEARS CAUSTIC COLOURS
PG 9 PG 14

BENGAL: A WIN RETURN OF THE

AGAINST CASTEISM OLIVE RIDLEYS
PG 12 PG 16

SMOKE AND SCANDAL The entrance of the storeroom (left), where cash (right) was allegedly discovered during a
firefighting operation at Justice Varma’s residence in Delhi, March 14

C A S H D I S C OV E RY ROW

A JUDICIAL FIRESTORM
By Kaushik Deka

A
late-night fire at the residence and police—arrived at the scene, they amid the fire debris. The discovery of
of a senior Delhi High Court reportedly discovered stacks of cash in a substantial cache of cash has thrust
judge has sparked an intense the storeroom, some of which had been the judiciary into an uncomfortable
controversy around the ju- charred by the flames. The revelation spotlight, challenging its self-regulatory
diciary and its complex appointments has raised troubling questions about mechanisms and raising fundamental
system. The incident, which unfolded corruption and accountability within questions about how justice is adminis-
on March 14 around 11.30 pm, saw one of the nation’s most venerated tered for judges themselves.
a blaze erupt in an outhouse at the institutions. On March 23, Chief Justice of India
residence of Justice Yashwant Varma. Videos and photographs of the (CJI) Sanjiv Khanna constituted a
At the time, Justice Varma and his scene, later released by the Supreme three-member committee comprising
wife were in Bhopal, leaving only his Court in an unprecedented move the Chief Justices of the Punjab and
daughter and elderly mother at home. toward transparency, show what ap- Haryana and Himachal Pradesh high
When first responders—firefighters pear to be bundles of currency notes courts, along with a judge from the

6 INDIA TODAY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5
UPFRONT

Karnataka High Court, to conduct an The mechanisms for investigat-

inhouse inquiry into the matter. The ing and disciplining judges in India
Delhi High Court has since with- reflect the tension between judicial
drawn all judicial work from Justice independence and accountability. Two
Varma, also a member of its collegium, principal procedures exist. The first is
until further orders. However, he has an inhouse procedure established by
categorically denied any connection the SC in 1999, wherein complaints
to the cash. In his formal response to against HC judges are initially evalu-
the inquiry, he described the outhouse ated by the chief justice of the relevant
where the fire broke out as “completely Justice Yashwant Varma court. If deemed serious enough, the
disassociated” from his living quarters, matter is referred to the CJI, who may
stating it was “unlocked and accessible
both from the official front gate as well
BL A Z E A ND T HE constitute a three-member commit-
tee of judges to conduct a confidential
as the backdoor of the staff quarters”. B AC K L A S H inquiry. This committee may recom-
mend that the judge resign or, if the

J
ustice Varma maintained that  On March 14, fire breaks judge refuses, advise the withdrawal of
out at Justice Varma’s
neither he nor any family member residence; a huge stash of
judicial work pending formal im-
had placed cash in the storeroom, cash found by firefighters peachment proceedings. The second
dismissing the allegations as “totally mechanism is the constitutional im-
preposterous” and suggesting the  On March 23, the peachment process, as detailed in Ar-
incident was “a conspiracy to frame Supreme Court forms a ticle 124(4) and (5) of the Constitution,
and malign” him. On March 23, Union committee to inquire the read with Article 218, and the Judges
law minister Arjun Ram Meghwal matter. Delhi HC withdraws (Inquiry) Act of 1968. This procedure
all judicial work from
addressed the controversy, exercising requires a motion supported by at least
Justice Varma
notable restraint in his words. “This 100 Lok Sabha members or 50 Rajya
case is with the Supreme Court. It has  Justice Varma denies Sabha members, followed by an inves-
formed a three-member committee. link to cash, calls it a tigation by a three-member judicial
Let the committee report come. Then “conspiracy to frame” him committee. If misconduct is proven,
we will talk about this,” he said. Mean- both Houses of Parliament must vote
while, on March 25, Vice President  SC proposes his transfer with a two-thirds majority to remove
Jagdeep Dhankhar called for an all- to parent Allahabad High the judge, after which the President
party meeting to discuss the issue, call- Court, says it’s unrelated to
issues the formal removal order.
the cash discovery case
ing it a “critical” and “serious” matter. The criminal prosecution of judges
The scandal has drawn pointed  Allahabad HC Bar Assn falls under a separate framework. In K.
commentary from prominent legal opposes transfer, alleges Veeraswami v. Union of India (1991),
figures too. Senior advocate and Rajya collegium favouritism the Supreme Court established that
Sabha MP Kapil Sibal described while judges are considered “public
corruption within the judiciary as “a servants” under the Prevention of Cor-
very serious issue” that has persisted ruption Act, no criminal case can be
for years. “It is time for the Supreme sociation’s response to Justice Varma’s registered against a high court or Su-
Court to review how appointments are proposed transfer—though the top preme Court judge without prior sanc-
made,” Sibal argued, calling for greater court maintained it was a separate, tion from the Chief Justice of India.
transparency and care in the judicial ongoing process with no connection This requirement aims to shield judges
selection process. The judiciary and the with the cash recovery case—has from frivolous or politically motivated
Union government are already locked been particularly vehement, draw- complaints while preserving a path for
in a tense standoff over the appoint- ing attention to what they termed legitimate accountability.
ment of high court and Supreme Court the “Uncle Judges Syndrome”. This The effectiveness of these mecha-
judges through the collegium system. controversial practice refers to alleged nisms has been repeatedly questioned.
Senior advocate Indira Jaising focused favouritism and nepotism in appoint- No Supreme Court or high court judge
on the procedural aspects, urging the ments and rulings. The association has ever been successfully impeached
SC collegium to “immediately disclose portrayed Justice Varma’s case as in India, despite several attempts.
the exact amount of money recovered” symptomatic of systemic problems, Criminal prosecutions have also been
to prevent speculation. where personal connections potential- equally rare and largely inconclusive.
The Allahabad High Court Bar As- ly shield judges from proper scrutiny. In 2022, the ministry of law and

8 INDIA TODAY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5
justice informed Parliament that 1,631 view that an established mechanism
complaints about judicial corruption for judicial accountability already
had been received between 2017 and THE SC’S STANCE ON exists through the inhouse procedure
2021 and forwarded to the CJI or PROTECTING HC overseen by the CJI. While this internal
high court chief justices. Even basic JUDGES FROM system has been criticised for lacking
transparency measures, such as judges transparency, the judiciary has consis-
LOKPAL SCRUTINY
declaring their assets publicly, have tently maintained that it provides an
been inconsistent. As of March, there
STEMS FROM ITS appropriate balance between account-
are 34 judges in the SC, including the DEEP CONCERNS ability and independence.
CJI, and about 1,100 in India’s 25 high ABOUT JUDICIAL As the three-member committee
courts. Out of these, only 98 judges INDEPENDENCE conducts its inquiry into the Justice
have publicly disclosed their assets. Varma case, the nation watches for sig-
The Supreme Court’s stance on nals about how seriously the judiciary
protecting high court judges from Lok- takes allegations of corruption within
pal scrutiny reflects these deep-seated order asserting jurisdiction over sit- its ranks. The outcome may well shape
concerns about judicial independence. ting high court judges. This protective public perception of judicial integrity
In February, the court stayed a Lokpal posture also reflects the apex court’s for years to come. n

PU NJA B

Mann Shifts Gears

By Anilesh S. Mahajan

O
n March 20, Punjab Police
launched a midnight
crackdown on farm union
protest sites at Shambhu
(on the Patiala-Ambala highway) and
Khanauri (Sangrur-Jind border), where
demonstrations had been ongoing since
February 2024. The operation was
one of the most intense actions against
farmer protests in the past decade.
It was preceded by the detention of
Kisan Mazdoor Morcha leader Sarvan
Singh Pandher and Samyukta Kisan
Morcha (Non Political) leader Jagjit
FINAL CRACKDOWN Earthmovers clearing the Shambhu
Singh Dallewal just as they re-entered
border after the eviction of agitating farmers, Mar. 20
PTI

Punjab after meeting Union ministers

Shivraj Singh Chouhan, Pralhad Joshi
and Piyush Goyal in Chandigarh. The career—first, as a satirist, and then, strategy to consolidate his authority
protest sites were forcibly cleared, with a politician—on siding with protest- within Punjab while simultaneously
hundreds of farmers detained in the ers, he is now positioning himself as a navigating the increasing dominance of
process. (Later, about 800 were released leader with a firm grip on governance. the Aam Aadmi Party’s central leader-
on March 24 with the promise to let His administration has also cracked ship in state affairs.
another 450 go in the coming days.) down on striking revenue officials and Just before the crackdown, Mann’s
The move marks a significant shift launched a bulldozer drive against agriculture minister, Gurmeet Singh
in Punjab chief minister Bhagwant drug traffickers. These aggressive Khudian, had been part of the con-
Mann’s approach. Having built his measures appear to be part of a larger sultations between farm leaders and

A PR I L 7, 2 02 5 INDIA TODAY 9
UPFRONT

Union ministers, where both sides had government reassigned their duties in Punjab, where it won only three out
reportedly agreed to meet again on to junior officers. Observers say this of 13 seats, the central leadership has
May 4 and hold nationwide stakehold- served both as an administrative already tightened its grip on the state
er consultations. But Mann was appar- clean-up and an assertion of power unit. Kejriwal, now unseated as Delhi
ently growing impatient. While he had against bureaucratic resistance. chief minister, has shifted focus to
been facing accusations of succumbing Simultaneously, the govern- Punjab, holding meetings and lending
to the protesters time and again, many ment has intensified its campaign his rhetorical energies to the party’s
in the government believed that the against drug traffickers. On March crackdown on drugs and corruption.
frequent highway blockades were hurt- 17, the state police demolished the On March 21, he appointed former
ing the state’s economy and frustrating house of an absconding drug dealer, Delhi ministers Manish Sisodia and
the non-agricultural population. In Gurcharan Singh, in Ferozepur, Satyendar Jain as AAP’s Punjab
the 2024 general election, a signifi- citing illegal construction. This was in-charge and co-incharge, respec-
cant chunk of these voters is believed part of a crackdown launched in tively. Both are believed to have better
to have shifted away from AAP. late February, wherein properties working relationships with Mann than
Even a fortnight before the March of alleged drug peddlers have been their predecessors, Rajya Sabha MPs
20 operation, the Mann government razed in Patiala, Ropar, Amritsar Raghav Chadha and Sandeep Pathak.
had detained prominent farm leaders and Ludhiana. With this, Punjab has

I
Balbir Singh Rajewal, Ruldu Singh become the first non-BJP-ruled state n the midst of all this, speculation is
rife about an impending cabinet re-
shuffle after two of Mann’s ministers,
W H O ’ S T HE B O S S ? Lal Chand Kataruchak and Harbhajan
Singh ETO, were summoned to Delhi
 Punjab CM Bhagwant Mann and asked to present reports on fund
has cracked down on farmer utilisation by their departments. This is
protesters, striking revenue
similar to developments that took place
officials and drug traffickers,
asserting control—yet his before massive restructuring late last
autonomy is being tested year, when Mann had to cede the state
unit reins to his bête noire Aman Arora.
 AAP’s central leadership, led The increased involvement of
by Arvind Kejriwal, is tightening AAP’s central leadership in Punjab has
its grip on Punjab, with key complicated Mann’s political position-
aides now overseeing state
ing, especially in a state with strong
affairs and speculation about his
own political ambitions rising sub-regional sentiments. His opponents
have been quick to highlight Kejriwal’s
growing influence, citing the appoint-
ment of loyalists in key state positions,
Mansa and Joginder Singh Ugrahan, to embrace Yogi Adityanath-style even as the party boss has downplayed
thwarting their plans to protest outside “bulldozer justice”. Before letting the speculation about replacing Mann. The
the CM’s residence in Chandigarh. On bulldozers lose, Mann had met the recent announcement of Rajya Sabha
March 3, Mann had also walked out of police top brass, giving them three MP Sanjeev Arora as AAP’s candidate
a meeting with the union leaders. months to curb drug trafficking. The for the Ludhiana West assembly seat
department has prepared a dossier has only fuelled talk that Kejriwal wants

A
round the same time, his govern- on 78 peddlers whose properties they to enter Parliament through Punjab.
ment moved against striking plan to target next, but legal hurdles Even as Mann appears determined
revenue officials, who were pro- remain. Human rights groups have to project a tougher, more autonomous
testing vigilance actions against some moved the high court, citing a Su- image, his critics dismiss his recent
of their colleagues in Ludhiana. After preme Court verdict from November actions as “headline-grabbing”. “There
making unannounced visits to Banur, 2024 that bars such executive action. have been cops dismissed for their links
Mohali and Kharar on March 4, Mann These aggressive moves come to drug traffickers and gangsters…. Why
suspended 15 tehsildars and naib as Mann seeks to win over party haven’t bulldozers gone to their homes?”
tehsildars, including Punjab Revenue legislators while tackling grow- leader of the Opposition Partap Sigh Ba-
Officers’ Association chief Lachman ing anti-incumbency against his jwa questioned in the assembly. Mann’s
Singh Randhawa, citing negligence of government. After AAP’s under- political battle—both within and out-
duty. To ensure continuity of work, the whelming Lok Sabha performance side his party—seems far from over. n

10 INDIA TODAY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5
UPFRONT

PTI
BREAKING A MOULD
Muchi community
members at the
Shiva temple in
Gidhagram, Mar. 12

W EST BENGA L

A WIN AGAINST CASTEISM

By Arkamoy Datta Majumdar

A
ll her life, Santana Das had played out in West Bengal—known usu- officer, was taken aback. “I had no idea
watched from a safe distance ally for its liberal social values, besides that such discrimination still persists—
as others entered the Shiva being under Left rule for 34 years—now especially in a progressive state like
temple in Gidhagram village is an eye-opener of sorts for many. Bengal,” she tells india today.
in Katwa sub-division in Purba Bard- Like in other parts of Bengal, caste Multiple discussions were held with
haman district. Born into the Muchi discrimination in Gidhagram had not representatives from all communities
(cobbler) community—a Dalit group always manifested itself openly—mem- and the local panchayat. However,
historically excluded from the temple— bers of ‘upper castes’ openly mingled tensions erupted during Shivratri
she had accepted this passively. But, on with Dalits, and other Scheduled Caste festivities in February, when the Muchi
March 12, wearing her finest saree, she groups were permitted entry into the community was denied entry despite
stepped inside for the first time. With temple. Inexplicably, the Dalit Muchi the presence of police and administra-
her were three women—Pooja Das, community alone was excluded, and it tive officials. Jain says it took more
Lakshmi Das and Mamata Das—and took them years to muster the cour- talks and grassroots outreach to per-
a man, Shasthi Das, all from the 130 age to challenge this injustice. This suade the resistant factions. “This long-
Dalit families in the village. Their entry, year, members of the community standing discriminatory practice has
under the watchful eye of the local ad- approached the local administration. been abolished without any law and
ministration, was a declaration of dig- Ahimsa Jain, the Katwa sub-divisional order complications,” she says. Though
nity and equality. Later, emerging from some members faced threats of socio-
the temple after performing the rituals, economic ostracism, the police have
Santana said, her voice trembling with AS ELSEWHERE IN BENGAL, ensured that such retaliation has been
emotion, “We are elated. I never thought DEGREES OF OPENNESS IN curtailed. “From now, all are welcome
this day would come.” SOCIETY KEPT CASTE BIAS in the temple,” says Nabakumar Ghosh,
The exclusion of Dalits from temples LESS THAN TRANSPARENT a privileged caste villager.
controlled by privileged castes has been IN GIDHAGRAM. MUCHIS However, as Gidhagram gained
a historical blight in India; conversely, attention, it opened a can of worms—
ALONE WERE BARRED
‘temple entry’ movements have been reports of similar cases emerged from
the foremost tool to fight entrenched
FROM THE TEMPLE across Bengal. In Nadia’s Kaliganj
casteism. That such a cycle should be and Purba Bardhaman’s Ketugram,

12 INDIA TODAY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5
UPFRONT By Rohit Parihar

T
he desert state of
Rajasthan has had a some-
L I G H T O N A BL I G H T what more placid image
compared to its neighbours
but that reputation is fast losing
 The SC Muchi commu­ Bengal—which has a large its shine. Street violence over per-
nity was denied entry to a Dalit population—where
temple in Gidhagram village some SC communities are ceived slights has often been a bane
in West Bengal for centuries systematically excluded but what's proving worse is the
lack of restraint higher up, with the
 This March, with the help  Large Dalit groups like words and deeds of politicians bor-
of the administration and Namashudras and Rajbang­ dering on the boorish.
talks with privileged castes, shis have political influence This year’s Holi brought out
they were finally allowed in and escape discrimination some of the symptoms of the rash
that has begun to ail the state. It
 The incident highlighted  Small groups like Muchis
started with the St Angela Sophia
other such temples in face the brunt of caste bias
School in Jaipur issuing a circular
to students to not bring colours
to school, possibly because they
allegations of a similar practice of Dalit population in India, ‘upper wanted to avoid any untoward inci-
discrimination against Muchis were castes’ find it difficult to discrimi- dent of harassment. But it took no
received by the Rabidas Ruidas Rishi nate openly. Instead, they maintain time to snowball into a communal
Das Charmakar Chamar Muchi Ai- social superiority through prac- controversy, so much so that on
kya Mancha, an umbrella organisa- tices like denying entry into certain March 11, school education minis-
tion of the cobbler community. How- temples under the guise of tradi- ter Madan Dilawar declared that he
ever, after interventions from the tion,” he explains. Biswas points out would write to the Central Board
court and local administration, the that casteist tendencies were evident of School Education (CBSE) to take
community has been allowed to enter during Left rule too. “When land action against the school. The very
the temples in both these places. reforms were implemented, the elite next day, a tragedy proved that the
castes did not resist as they were not way some play Holi in the state can

T
he state’s Dalit population directly engaged in farming. But be calamitous. Hansraj Meena, 25,
stands at 21.4 million (2011 they ensured Dalits were kept away who was preparing for an exam
Census), with 60 sub-groups. from intellectual spaces,” he adds. at a library in Dausa town near
The two largest communities—Raj- In a 2004 study report by the Jaipur, was fatally attacked after
bangshis (18 per cent of the popu- Pratichi Trust, Rana wrote of “some he objected to some youths putting
lation) and Namashudras (16 per evidence of discrimination based on colour on him.
cent)—have also faced discrimina- caste and religion” around the mid- After the incident, the police
tion, but are less vulnerable as they're day meal programme in schools. clamped down on Holi hooligans
concentrated in some districts, giving In two of the 15 villages under the who were harassing people or cre-
them political influence. In contrast, study, privileged caste Hindu chil- ating a ruckus. Soon, an overdose of
the Muchi/ Chamar community, dren refused to eat in school as the the cure itself became a new head-
comprising 4.8 per cent of Bengal’s cook was a Muslim woman in one ache when devotees were barred
Dalits, remains marginalised. and a Dalit in the other. from playing Holi at Govind Devji
“Discrimination against com- Despite Bengal’s large Dalit temple complex in Jaipur, ostensibly
munities such as cobblers is rampant population, atrocities against Sched- to prevent a stampede. Many angry
because they are fewer in numbers,” uled Castes remain underreported. devotees chose to respond with a
says Dalit researcher and author Between 2018 and 2022, only 585 boycott. “This is shocking. The cops
Kumar Rana. “They are treated with cases out of 246,908 complaints were
discrimination because otherwise, registered in Bengal under the SC/
the so-called ‘upper castes’ will not ST (Prevention of Atrocities) Act. The A RASH OF
get cheap labour,” he says. conviction rate has been zero. INCIDENTS WITH A
Dalit activist and author Nar- The victory in Gidhagram is a COMMUNAL TINGE
ayan Biswas describes casteism in milestone, but the larger war against AROUND HOLI HAS
Bengal as being “sugar-coated”. caste discrimination is far from over.
“Like the rest of India, the disease of For Santana, stepping inside the
PUT THE BHAJAN
casteism exists in Bengal. However, temple was a moment of triumph. LAL GOVT IN A SPOT
since it is home to the second-largest For Bengal, it is a wake-up call. n

14 INDIA TODAY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5
 R AJASTH A N

Caustic
Illustration by SIDDHANT JUMDE

Colours of
Rajasthan
and temple officials frisked devo- WE SHOULD BE regret for their choice of words,
tees to ensure they were not carry- CAREFUL IN OUR there is a likelihood that the message
ing any colours. For years, we have CHOICE OF WORDS... will trickle down to the administra-
been celebrating Holi in part of the BUT PEOPLE ARE tion and masses that such actions
temple complex,” alleged Congress BEING OVERLY are kosher. Already, an incident
leader and ex-minister Pratap S. TOUCHY NOWADAYS from March 2, where the baby of
Khachriawas. a Muslim couple was killed due to
BHAJAN LAL SHARMA
Getting mud on the face on Holi Rajasthan CM police ‘carelessness’ during a raid
may not be the best proof, but critics in Raghunathgarh village in Alwar,
say the BJP is keeping the communal has led to an uproar and charges of
pot on simmer as the local body elec- high dudgeon about Muslims “evading high-handedness. It is alleged that
tions may be held later in the year. the crackdown” against meat shops the cops accidentally stepped on
To be sure, the landscape is littered during Holi. His latest outburst was the baby when it fell on the floor. The
with evidence. The most egregious during a Holi celebration with lawyers authorities claim the raids were part
would be BJP legislator Gopal Sharma where he asked them to use their of a statewide campaign against
shouting “Pakistani, Pakistani” while “legal brains to bring an end to the cyber criminals.
Congress chief whip Rafeek Khan azaan on loudspeaker” as it was giv- Rajasthan has so far avoid-
was speaking on an urban devel- ing him a headache. ed charges of being a communally
opment issue in the assembly on polarised state. CM Bhajan Lal, who

F
March 8. Khan later broke down irst-time chief minister Bhajan is just 15 months into power, will
while speaking to the media about Lal Sharma has a task on his have to be on his toes if he and the
the incident. Close on the heels of hands keeping his motormouth BJP are not to sully that image by
Sharma was fellow party legislator leaders in check. Critics now say getting embroiled in unsavoury con-
Balmukund Acharya, who has been in that with these leaders showing little troversies. n

A PR I L 7, 2 02 5 INDIA TODAY 15
 SPECTACLE OF ‘ARRIBADA’
Thousands of Olive Ridley turtles
crawl out from the sea to lay eggs
UPFRONT in Odisha’s Rushikulya beach

M AR INE W ILDLIFE

RETURN OF THE
OLIVE RIDLEYS
By Arkamoy Datta Majumdar

F
irst came the shock and dis- extraordinary phenomenon, known
may—throughout January, as ‘arribada’ (Spanish for ‘arrival’), has
the discovery of hundreds of surpassed previous records. The sheer
carcasses of Olive Ridley turtles scale of this nesting event stands as
on the beaches in and around Chennai a testament to years of painstaking
raised the hackles of wildlife conserva- conservation efforts, yet the very rarity
tionists. Then, from mid-February and of this moment of success underscores
through March, emerged a remarkable the ongoing challenges posed by climate
silver lining: the Rushikulya beach in change and habitat disruption.
Odisha’s Ganjam district witnessed an Gahirmatha beach in Kendrapara
unprecedented mass nesting event, with district, till now the world’s largest
close to 700,000 turtles laying eggs. known nesting ground for Olive Ridleys, tions, consistent beach clean-ups and
This astonishing spectacle comes after has recorded over 600,000 turtles this awareness campaigns—played a role. The
the site saw no nesting at all last year, year. However, unlike Rushikulya, the absence of rain ensured that the beach re-
making it a moment of triumph for con- site has never seen a drastic decline in mained dry, providing the perfect nesting
servationists. Redemption, it seemed, numbers. The mass nesting at Rushiku- environment,” he says.
had arrived further up the coast. lya began on February 16 and continued Local involvement has also been a
Olive Ridley turtles (Lepidochelys for eight days, with the tally of nesting crucial factor. Rabindranath Sahu, a
olivacea) are the most abundant of all turtles touching 698,718. Gahirmatha member of the Rushikulya Sea Turtle
sea turtles and they inhabit the warm recorded 606,933 turtles between Protection Committee, says, “The com-
waters of the Pacific, Atlantic and Ind- March 5 and 9. Olive Ridleys begin munity once saw turtles as a nuisance.
ian Oceans. Olive Ridleys travel 9,000 their mating rituals in the sea around Now, they take pride in cleaning the
km from the Pacific Ocean, as well September-October, and the nesting beach and ensuring a safe nesting envi-
as shorter distances from the Indian season lasts from January to March. ronment for the turtles,” he says.
Ocean, to breed and nest on select Experts attribute the historic nest- A key highlight of this year’s nest-
Indian beaches in Tamil Nadu, Andhra ing event at Rushikulya to a combina- ing at Gahirmatha Marine Sanctuary
Pradesh and Odisha, which is home to tion of favourable climatic conditions was the return of turtles—300,000 in
the two mass-nesting beaches for them. and proactive conservation manage- total—to Ekakulanasi Island after 33
Olive Ridleys are a fundamental link ment strategies. Dibya Sankar Behera, years. The beach had suffered signifi-
in marine ecosystems by regulating assistant conservator of forests and cant sea erosion, leading to a reduction
populations of organisms like jellyfish in-charge of the Olive Ridley (Sea Turtle) in its profile. However, since 2020, the
and helping maintain coral reefs. But Protection Area in Odisha, is delighted. beach has been undergoing natural ac-
they face numerous threats, including “All our efforts—strict fishing restric- cretion, causing it to extend once more.
the mass harvesting of eggs, poaching
and unintended capture in fishing nets,
leading to injuries or drowning.
As thousands of these marine rep-
OLIVE RIDLEYS KEPT OFF RUSHIKULYA LAST YEAR, BUT
tiles crawled ashore beneath the moonlit NEARLY 700,000 HAVE NESTED ON THE BEACH IN 2025.
sky—and, defying age-old practice, dur- BETTER CLIMATE AND CONSERVATION MANAGEMENT
ing daylight hours as well—locals and STRATEGIES HELPED IN THE STUNNING TURNAROUND
conservationists stood spellbound. This

16 INDIA TODAY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5
 Gahirmatha
Beach
ODISHA

counted hourly and marked with ink.

Rushikulya This data is then used to estimate the
Beach total number of nesting turtles.
Since Rushikulya is a dynamic
beach, constantly shaped by erosion
and accretion, maintaining its suit-
ability for nesting needs vigilance.
The forest and fisheries departm-
ents and the marine police jointly
patrol the waters. A 240-member
strong turtle protection squad works
through the nesting season, ensuring
the safety of the turtles and their eggs.
Dr Basudev Tripathy, member of
the Marine Turtle Specialist Group at
the International Union for Conser-
vation of Nature (IUCN), says that
changes in nesting behaviour may be
linked to environmental shifts. “The
decline of other habitats may have
ANCIENT MARINERS driven a larger number of turtles to
IN ODISHA Rushikulya this year. The Devi river
mouth in Puri, once one of the three
major nesting sites in Odisha along-
 Olive Ridleys are sea side Rushikulya and Gahirmatha,
This transformation created favour- turtles found in the has seen a drop in numbers due to
able conditions for the turtles. Atlantic, Pacific and Indian increasing disturbances,” he explains.
The story of Rushikulya as a Oceans and get their name Tripathy elaborates on the global
premier nesting site for Olive Ridleys from their olive-green implications. “The population of
carapace
dates back to March 1994, when Olive Ridleys in the Indian Ocean is
marine turtle researcher Bivash distinct from those in the Atlantic or
 They are a fundamental
Pandav, now a scientist at the Wildlife Pacific. While an increase in numbers
link in marine ecosystems
Institute of India, first documented and help maintain the here does not necessarily indicate an
mass nesting there. Two years later, health of coral reefs and overall rise in the species worldwide,
the Odisha Forest Department took sea grass beds it is a promising sign. The IUCN is
the site under its protective wing. debating whether to downgrade Olive
 From mid-February and Ridleys from an ‘endangered’ to a

T
oday, a 20-km stretch from through March, Rushikulya ‘vulnerable’ species,” Tripathy adds.
Aryapalli to Prayagi has been beach in Odisha witnessed Pandav agrees, noting that flu-
identified as a probable nesting a mass nesting event, ctuations in numbers are natural. “It’s
with 698,718 Olive Ridleys
zone, with a 10-km core area declared not unusual for turtles to skip nesting
laying eggs; last year,
a no-fishing zone from November to there were no turtles at a particular beach, like Rushikulya
May, since turtles fall prey to trawling last year,” he says. However, he specu-
nets, gill nets and fishing hooks. To  Nearby Gahirmatha lates that this year’s record numbers
support around 8,000 affected fishing beach recorded may be a response to environmental
families, the government provides a 606,933 turtles factors yet to be fully understood.
one-time compensation of Rs 15,000. As conservationists celebrate
A 5-km high-probability nesting zone  This is due to sustained this year’s historic ‘arribada’, their
between Ghokarakuda and Bateswar conservation efforts, message remains clear: the battle to
village receives special attention. The favourable climate and protect Olive Ridleys is far from over.
proactive management
census of nesting turtles has a meth- This year’s success serves as a remind-
like fishing restrictions
odology. The five-km zone is divided and beach clean-ups er of the delicate balance between
into 50 segments of 100 metres each. nature and conservation—one that
At the middle, a 20-metre section is  The forest and fisheries must be maintained if these ancient
selected, where incoming turtles are departments and marine mariners are to thrive in future. n
police jointly patrol the
waters thrice a day
during the nesting season A PR I L 7, 2 02 5 INDIA TODAY 17
 UPFRONT

GL ASSHOUSE

TEST CASE?
E
x-Union minister Rajeev Chandrasekhar,
60, has been handpicked by the BJP’s central
leadership to head its faction-ridden Kerala unit.
The tech-savvy business mogul will lead the BJP charge
in this year’s local body polls and the 2026 assembly
election. The appointment, though, has not gone down
well with senior state leaders, who remain sceptical
of what he can deliver. Already memes are out of him
bumbling away in Malayalam, some of it, sources say,
put out by partymen themselves. Rajeev’s last electoral
battle, against Congress MP Shashi Tharoor in the
2024 Lok Sabha election, ended in a narrow defeat in
Thiruvananthapuram—an outcome that underscores both
his potential and the uphill challenge ahead. His surprise
elevation, though, has got tongues wagging: is the BJP
quietly test-launching a CM candidate for Kerala?
Illustration by SIDDHANT JUMDE

The Biggest Jinx PARTY MINUS POLITICS Guess Who’s

Not Coming
U ttarakhand CM Pushkar Singh Dhami, who
is juggling a staggering 39 departments,
has been lobbying with the BJP leadership in
I n a first, Jammu and
Kashmir CM Omar
Abdullah and his father,
to Dinner
Delhi for a cabinet expansion (five berths are
lying vacant in the 12-seat cabinet). The central
leadership has asked him to submit performance
National Conference
(NC) president Farooq
Abdullah, attended
T hey say the way to a
man’s heart is through
his stomach. But in Bihar’s
cards of all the ministers—a clear signal that a an Iftar party hosted by political kitchen, not every
reshuffle is imminent. That spells danger too—the arch-rival and PDP chief feast hits the mark. CM
government has completed three years Mehbooba Mufti in Jammu on March Nitish Kumar’s grand
in office, and the anti-Dhami camp is 23. As the holy month of Ramzan nears Daawat-e-Iftar
back in action. Uttarakhand’s history its end, this unusual show of camara- on March 23
hasn’t been kind to CMs—only one derie underscores how religion can bring at his 1, Anne
has completed a full term. Dhami opponents together, especially after all Marg resi-
broke one jinx by becoming the first the bitterness from the poll campaign dence saw
CM to return to power. Can he last year. Gen Next seems to be getting half a dozen
beat another, become the first along too—Mehbooba’s daughter Iltija Muslim organ-
BJP CM to complete a full and Omar’s sons were seen together at isations give him
five-year term? another Iftar party in Srinagar. the cold shoulder, pro-
testing the JD(U)’s support
ARUN KUMAR
to the Waqf Amendment
Bill. Still, the turnout wasn’t
Pressure and Pivot bad, with VIPs like gover-
nor Arif Mohammad Khan

Y .S. Jagan Mohan Reddy’s YSRCP isn’t part of the NDA, but
he still skipped the March 22 joint action meeting on delimitation
called by Tamil Nadu CM M.K. Stalin. In fact, the party has gone the
in attendance. Meanwhile,
RJD patriarch Lalu Prasad
Yadav rolled out his own
other way, written to PM Narendra Modi signalling its willingness to Iftar feast on March 24,
go by Union home minister Amit Shah’s assurance that Lok Sabha serving up a spread for
seats for the southern states would remain unchanged. On this, those who skipped Nitish’s
Jagan finds himself aligned with the ruling TDP in Andhra Pradesh. invite. In Bihar, Iftar isn’t
ANI

But the subtext is hard to miss—Jagan needs Modi now more just about breaking the
than ever, as he faces mounting pressure from party fast—it’s about tasting
defections and a slew of CBI cases. Is the YSRCP’s slow the shifting flavours
decline nudging Jagan closer to the NDA orbit? of political loyalty.

Kaushik Deka with Jeemon Jacob,

Anilesh S. Mahajan, Kaleem Geelani,
Amitabh Srivastava and Amarnath K. Menon
PTI

WEAPON
COVE R STO RY

HISTORY
 ALAMY
GRAVE SITUATION
Hindu right-wing activists pro-

NISING
testing in Nagpur to demand
the razing of Aurangzeb’s
tomb (right), located in Khult-
abad, Maharashtra, Mar. 17

Y
The violence in Maharashtra over Aurangzeb's
controversial legacy is only the latest marker
of Hindutva attempts to redress perceived
historical wrongs
By DHAVAL S. KULK ARNI & AVANEESH MISHR A
 C OVE R STO RY | WE A P O N IS IN G H ISTO RY

LIGHTING

T
A POLITICAL
TINDERBOX
“We all think alike
(that the tomb
must be demolished),
but some things
must be done
legally as it is
The success of a film is measured not only by its box- a protected
office earnings, but also by the emotions it can rouse structure. It was
in its audiences. Chhaava (meaning ‘lion cub’), based made a protected
on a popular Marathi novel on the 17th-century figure structure by
of Sambhaji, son of the iconic founder of the Maratha the former
empire, Chhatrapati Shivaji, delivered on both scores.
BANDEEP SINGH
Congress regime”
It had already raked in upwards of Rs 541 crore by the
sixth week of its February 14 release. But what really DEVENDRA FADNAVIS
propelled the drama to the headlines was an extended Chief Minister, Maharashtra
and graphic sequence of Mughal emperor Aurangzeb
(played by Akshaye Khanna) torturing and killing
Sambhaji (Vicky Kaushal) in 1689. The scenes had “We didn’t keep
people breaking down in tears and shouting patriotic asking each other
slogans in theatres—dutifully recorded on videos and
circulated widely on social media. Its stature was con- when the Babri Masjid
firmed when, amid cheers for Sambhaji and Shivaji, a was demolished, our
special screening was held on March 27, at the GMC kar sevaks just
Balayogi auditorium in Parliament, where the audi- did it...this is the
ence included Prime Minister Narendra Modi, Union time for a repeat.
home minister Amit Shah, BJP president J.P. Nadda
and their NDA colleagues. Samajhdaar ko
ishara kaafi hai
The plot had already moved off-stage before that. So convinc-
ing was the portrayal by the chief protagonists in the Maddock
(For the smart, a
Films’ production that the emotions spilled out of the cinema halls signal is enough)”
into the streets. Especially after Samajwadi Party’s Mumbai MLA NITESH RANE
Abu Asim Azmi put up a defence of Aurangzeb on March 3, say- Minister for Ports and
ing, “Wrong history is being shown. Aurangzeb built many tem- Fisheries, Maharashtra
ples. I do not consider him a cruel ruler. Also, the battle between
Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj and Aurangzeb was for state
administration, not between Hindus and Muslims.” Whatever
the results of actual conflicts, in the long view of popular history, Devendra Fadnavis skilfully pleaded helplessness at being
Maratha warriors are the clear winners and Aurangzeb a univer- unable to disturb Aurangzeb’s grave as it was a protected
sally reviled figure. Incensed at Abu Azmi’s statement, Sangh pari- structure under the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).
var affiliates such as the Vishva Hindu Parishad and the Bajrang He did assert, though, that his government will not allow
Dal called for the razing of Aurangzeb’s grave at Khultabad near the glorification of the Mughal. “Why do we want the grave
Aurangabad (renamed Chhatrapati Sambhajinagar a couple of Aurangya (Aurangzeb)?” he asked. “But as you know, the
of years ago). They found ready support from the BJP and the ASI declared it a protected site 50 years ago and hence the
Shiv Sena, members of the ruling Mahayuti coalition in the state. state and Union governments are vested with protecting it.
Uttar Pradesh chief minister Yogi Adityanath weighed in, too, It is unfortunate that we are forced to protect the tomb of
declaring that glorifying ‘invaders’ was an act of ‘treason’ that Aurangya, who had killed thousands of our people.”
‘new India’ would not tolerate. Azmi has been suspended from Meanwhile, rumours of a chaadar (sheet) with
the Maharashtra legislature for the ongoing budget session. Quranic inscriptions being burnt during statewide pro-
An uneasy calm returned to Maharashtra after Chief Minister tests against Aurangzeb by Hindu right-wing groups

22 INDIA TODAY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5
 CHANDRADEEP KUMAR
“Glorifying invaders

BANDEEP SINGH
“When was Aurangzeb buried? means strengthening
Why make it an issue after the very roots of
so many years? Any attempt treason. The New
to disturb the law and order India will never
should be dealt with strictly. accept those
India is a symbol of unity in who insult our
diversity. We should not fall into great ancestors
the trap of any divisive forces” and praise those
AJIT PAWAR
who attacked our
Deputy CM, Maharashtra civilisation,
violated our
women and struck
“He (Aurangzeb) had come to loot, at our faith”
he was a thief, why glorify him? Peo- YOGI ADITYANATH
ple go to take his darshan, are they Chief Minister, UP
his descendants? He was a parasite.
Demolish it (the tomb)”
UDAYANRAJE BHONSLE, BJP MP and “The BJP
descendant of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj should go
back and learn
history. Swami
“A wrong history is being put out.
Vivekananda
emphasised
Aurangzeb also built many temples.
the universal
I don’t consider him a cruel ruler. acceptance of all religions. If
Also, the battle between Chhatrapati BJP leaders truly respected
Sambhaji Maharaj and Aurangzeb Vivekananda, they would
was for land...it was not a battle learn from him about religious
between Hindus and Muslims” tolerance and inclusion”
ABU AZMI, Samajwadi Party AKHILESH YADAV
MLA, Maharashtra President, Samajwadi Party
ANI

“Farmers are committing suicide. Unemployment has

increased. To hide all these, the BJP comes up with new
issues of Hindus and Muslims, and to entangle people in
historical topics to divert their attention from the main issues”
ATUL LONDHE PATIL National spokesperson, Congress Party

sparked off a communal riot in Nagpur, headquarters of past events, controversial historical figures and claims over
the Rashtriya Swayamsevak Sangh (RSS), on March 17. The places of worship are increasingly creating flashpoints on
violence claimed the life of one person and left more than 30 the country’s socio-political landscape.
people, including a few policemen, injured. There is the ongoing legal battle over the Gyanvapi Masjid
in Varanasi in UP, which revolves around claims that the
A Wave of Revanchism 17th-century mosque, built during Aurangzeb’s rule, stands
on a demolished Hindu temple. The Krishna Janmabhoomi
Back in the 1940s, Maratha historian T.S. Shejwalkar had dispute in Mathura involves claims that the Shahi Idgah
written presciently, “There is a terrible ghoul—a massive mosque was built at the birthplace of Lord Krishna after a
spectre—that is haunting Maharashtra. Its name is histo- temple was demolished, again during Aurangzeb’s rule. In
ry.” Except that it is not just Maharashtra that is witnessing Rajasthan, Hindutva groups claim that the dargah of Sufi
social and communal conflagrations over historical percep- saint Moinuddin Chishti in Ajmer was originally a Shiva
tions. From UP to Telangana, contentious interpretations of temple. In Hyderabad, communal sentiments continue to

A PR I L 7, 2 02 5 INDIA TODAY 23
TEMPLE-MOSQUE DISPUTES

Other Battlezones
GYANVAPI MOSQUE | Varanasi

THE ROW
A similar story is playing out in Varanasi, where
a 2023 ASI survey has confirmed a pre-existing
temple at the Gyanvapi Masjid’s site. Hindu groups
claim that the 17th-century mosque was built on
the plinth of the Vishweshwara temple razed by
Aurangzeb. The dispute only intensified after a
2022 survey found a shivling-like structure in the
mosque’s wuzukhana (ablution tank).

THE PETITIONERS
The conflict originally traces back to a 1991 lawsuit
but gained momentum in August 2021 when five
Hindu women filed a petition, seeking permis-
sion to worship the goddess Shringar Gauri inside
the mosque compound all year round. It is spear-
ANI

headed by lawyer Hari Shankar Jain, who is also

involved in Shahi Idgah and Taj Mahal cases.

SHAHI JAMA MASJID | Sambhal CURRENT STATUS

In early 2024, a Varanasi court allowed Hindus to
pray in the mosque’s basement, a ruling upheld
THE ROW V.S. Jain and seer Mahant by the Allahabad High Court. Later, the Supreme
The 16th-century mosque Rishiraj Giri, backed by Court, too, refused to pause the puja. Multiple liti-
in UP is embroiled in a Hindutva groups. gations are still pending in courts.
legal dispute with claims
that it was built on Ba- CURRENT STATUS
bur’s orders after razing The SC has stayed further
Harihar Mandir, dedicated trial court proceed-
to Lord Kalki. The dispute ings till the Allahabad
boiled over into violence High Court decides the
in November 2024 during mosque committee’s
a court-ordered survey of challenge to the survey
the mosque. order. It has also ordered
status quo over a disput-
THE PETITIONERS ed well near the mosque.
The legal challenge is led The next HC hearing is on
by Supreme Court lawyer April 8.

simmer over the Bhagyalaxmi temple, located below the Osmanabad district as Dharashiv, and Ahmednagar as Ahilya-
southeastern minaret of the iconic Charminar. Just five nagar after the 18th-century warrior queen Ahilyabai Holkar.
months earlier, a fresh battle erupted over the Shahi Jama Allahabad and Mughalsarai have been rechristened Prayagraj
Masjid, a 16th-century structure and reputedly the oldest and Pandit Deen Dayal Upadhyay Nagar for some time now.
surviving Mughal mosque in the country, in Sambhal, UP. In the Hindutva view of things, these are nothing but eff-
It’s not just religious structures, but names of roads, orts to set right the distorted view of history promoted by impe-
towns, and even festivals commemorating Muslim figures rialist and Left historians. Sangh parivar ideologues cite the
from history or legend are falling victim to the Hindutva pur- ‘panch pran’ (five resolutions) of the Amrit Kaal propounded
suit to reclaim history. Thus the renaming of Aurangabad by PM Modi as the core of their ideology. These include the
as Chhatrapati Sambhajinagar and the rechristening of goal of a developed India by 2047, elimination of colonial

24 INDIA TODAY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5
 AJMER SHARIF | Ajmer

THE ROW
A legal battle has sprung up over Khwaja
Moinuddin Chishti’s dargah in Ajmer, Rajast-
han, with claims that the revered 13th-cen-
tury Sufi shrine, which attracts multi-faith
devotees including political leaders and
celebrities, was originally a Shiva temple.

CHANDRADEEP KUMAR
THE PETITIONERS
This claim was brought alive again in the
immediate aftermath of the communal ten-
sions that erupted in Sambhal in Nov. 2024. A
lawsuit filed by Vishnu Gupta, national presi-
dent of the Hindu Sena, a right-wing Hindu
nationalist organisation founded in 2011,
questioned whether the dargah is protected
under the Places of Worship Act, besides
SHAHI IDGAH | Mathura seeking to reclaim the site for Hindu worship.

CURRENT STATUS
THE ROW ing ‘Bhagwan Shri Krishna Muslim leaders like AIMIM chief Asadud-
The issue traces back to a Virajman’, sought the din Owaisi view the lawsuit as an attack
1964 lawsuit filed by the mosque’s removal. Their on India’s pluralistic traditions. The BJP’s
Shri Krishna Janmast- initial plea was rejected, state unit chief, Madan Rathore, calls such
han Sewa Sansthan over but a revision petition was litigations a fallout of the “Congress’s ap-
ownership of the entire accepted in May 2022. To peasement policy” while claiming they will
13.37-acre land believed to date, over 15 cases have respect the court’s decision. A local court
be part of Lord Krishna’s been filed, all seeking the has received replies from the Dargah Com-
birthplace. It is also here mosque’s removal. mittee, ASI and other respondents and has
that Shahi Idgah mosque listed the matter for hearing on April 19.
stands over 2.5 acres, CURRENT STATUS
which Hindu groups claim In December 2023, the Al-
ANI

was built after razing the lahabad HC ruled that the

Keshavadeva temple on case was not subject to the
Aurangzeb’s orders in 1670. Places of Worship Act, 1991,
In 1968, the two groups had which preserves the reli-
reached a compromise. gious character of sites as
they stood in 1947, and per-
THE PETITIONERS mitted a court-monitored
Fresh petitions emerged in survey of the mosque. The
2020 when Lucknow-based SC stayed this order in Jan.
lawyer Ranjana Agnihotri 2024. The case will now be
and six others, represent- heard on April 1.

mindsets, pride in India’s heritage and roots, strengthening

unity and a sense of duty among citizens. “Muslims or Islam
are not our enemy,” says a top RSS leader. “The symbols of
colonialism, created only to demoralise the Hindu commu-
nity, shouldn’t be glorified. To build pride in our roots and
do away with the colonial mindset, there is a need to tell the
stories of our heroes to the future generation.”
The problem with the Hindutva project, as historian
Purushottam Agrawal (see column, Why are We Digging
Graves of the Past?) sees it, is that it is not bound by authenticity
C OVE R STO RY | WE A P O N IS IN G H ISTO RY

of historical material. Instead, it “heavily depends on a constant

arousal of passionate rage and hurt and has acquired the vocal
support of large sections of our mass media which willingly fan
the fires”. Films like Chaava only help that cause, helping jus-
tify calls seeking retribution for historical slights, both real and
perceived. All markers of the Muslim era, be it tombs or rituals,
are drawn into an ever-widening battle—in courtrooms, on the
streets, and from the pulpit of political rallies—over identity and
legacy. What begin as legal disputes soon become bustling battle-
fields for broader ideological wars. In this high-stakes contest,
history itself becomes the most contested territory of all.

The Sambhal Chapter

If Chhava re-enacted the battle by translating a 1979 novel by

ALAMY
Shivaji Sawant onto celluloid, Sambhal wrote its own script. The
legal and ideological battle over the Shahi Jama Masjid has reig-
nited old fault lines in this western UP town. Hindu petition-
AURANGZEB
ers, led by Supreme Court advocate Vishnu Shankar Jain and

The Emperor and

seer Mahant Rishiraj Giri, claimed that Mughal emperor Babur
ordered the destruction of the Harihar Mandir, a temple dedicated
to Lord Kalki, to make way for the mosque. Their argument leans
on historical texts such as the Baburnama and the Ain-e-Akbari, as
well as an 1879 report by the ASI that they claim identifies Hindu His Resting Place

A
architectural elements within the structure. The mosque’s manage-
ment committee counters these assertions, saying the site has been urangzeb, brothers. He deposed
a place of uninterrupted Islamic worship since the 16th century. As or Alamgir and imprisoned his fa-
such, Section 4(1) of the Places of Worship (Special Provisions) Act, I, was the ther, Shah Jahan, and
1991, prohibits converting or altering the character of any place sixth and executed his elder
of worship as it existed on August 15, 1947, except in the case of most controversial brother, the liberal
the Ram Janmabhoomi dispute. But the Hindu side has evoked of Mughal emperors, Dara Shukoh.
the sub-section 3a, which exempts from this provision any place of whose name still stirs Aurangzeb is
worship that is an “ancient and historical monument or an archae- strong emotions more known for his reli-
ological site or remains covered by the Ancient Monuments and than 300 years after gious bigotry and
Archaeological Sites and Remains Act, 1958…”. Both Sambhal and his death. He won the persecution of Hindus,
Gyanvapi are protected sites under the ASI. war of succession by Sikhs and Shias—

A
edging out his three unlike his great-
court-ordered survey on November 19,
2024, conducted under the supervision of
Advocate Commissioner Ramesh Singh amid
heavy police presence, went off without major
incident. However, a second such survey led to
the eruption of violence; tensions had been
BY DECRYING MUSLIM
building over the alleged lack of prior notice given to the mosque MONUMENTS, ROADS AND
committee, fuelling suspicion about the intent of the exercise. PLACES NAMED AFTER THEIR
When the surveyors returned five days later to complete their
RULERS, AS ALSO EVEN THEIR
inspection, the atmosphere had grown volatile. Rumours circu-
lated rapidly—that the administration planned to excavate under FESTIVALS AND RITUALS,
the mosque, that the wuzukhana (ablution tank) had been HINDUTVA IDEOLOGUES HOPE
drained to make way for digging, and that the survey was a pre- TO SET RIGHT WHAT THEY
lude to a larger push to reclaim the land as a temple site. By early
morning, hundreds had gathered outside the mosque. THINK HAS HITHERTO BEEN A
Stone-pelting soon followed. The police responded with tear DISTORTED VIEW OF HISTORY
gas and a lathi charge. There was also gunfire. By midday, four

26 INDIA TODAY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5
 son, Chhatrapati Samb- Qureshi says Aurang-
haji, ascended the throne zeb was buried in the
but was captured and courtyard of the tomb
brutally executed in of Shaikh Zainuddin, in
1689. However, Maratha a simple enclosure he
resistance persisted commissioned during
under Maharani Tarabai, his lifetime. Khultabad,
wife of Shivaji's younger known as the ‘valley
son Rajaram. Legendary of saints,’ was home to
generals Santaji Ghor- many Sufis, including
pade and Dhanaji Jadhav Zar Zari Zar Baksh, a
put up a valiant fight. disciple of Nizamuddin
Aurangzeb spent the Auliya of Delhi.
last 27 years of his life in Aurangzeb’s tomb
the Deccan, trying unsuc- was originally a wooden
cessfully to subdue the slab bearing a Persian
Marathas. He breathed his inscription: ‘No marble
last on February 21, 1707, sheets should shield
at Bhingar in Ahmed- me from the sky as I
nagar at the age of 89. His lie there one with the
body was carried to Khul- earth.’ Qureshi cites a
tabad, near Aurangabad, legend that Aurangzeb
grandfather Akbar and made peace with the renamed Chhatrapati decreed only Rs 14 and
grandfather Jahangir, invading Mughal general Sambhajinagar in 2023. 12 annas—earned from
who engaged with non- Mirza Raja Jai Singh, he After his death, Samb- stitching caps—be spent
Muslim religious figures, was invited to the Mughal haji’s son, Shahu, who had on his burial. He had
including Hindus and court in Agra. Feeling been imprisoned with his also earned Rs 350 from
Christians, as Supriya Quranic inscriptions but
Gandhi notes in The Em- refused to use it, believ-
peror Who Never Was: AURANGZEB SPENT THE LAST 27 YEARS ing he had made mis-
OF HIS LIFE, TRYING UNSUCCESSFULLY
Dara Shukoh in Mughal takes in copying.
TO SUBDUE THE MARATHAS
India. Aurangzeb also In 1921, the Nizam of
ordered the executions Hyderabad and Lord Cur-
of Armenian Sufi Sarmad insulted by his treatment, mother Yesubai and half- zon embellished the site
Kashani and the ninth he walked out, was placed brother Madansinh since with marble and a pierced
Sikh guru, Tegh Bahadur. under house arrest, and childhood, was released. marble screen. Yet, a
Aurangzeb’s legacy famously staged a dra- Shahu had staved off at- patch of earth with a sabja
and career touch a raw matic escape. tempts to convert him in plant remains, in keep-
nerve in Maharashtra. Following Shivaji's captivity. ing with his wish to rest
After Shivaji Maharaj death in 1680, his elder Historian Dulari under the open sky. n

people were dead, several more injured, and the streets of sealed and emphasised the need for “peace and harmony”.
Sambhal were locked down under Section 144. Internet ser- In this unsettled, already highly polarised environment,
vices were suspended, schools closed and the district admin- a fresh wave of controversy washed over Sambhal in March,
istration moved swiftly to prevent further escalation. CM when the state administration banned the annual Neja Mela,
Adityanath said the police action was in response to “provoca- a festival traditionally held after Holi in honour of Syed Salar
tive speeches” delivered after Friday prayers. The Opposition Masud Ghazi. The local tradition celebrating Ghazi Miyan
accused the BJP government of deliberately stoking tensions as a warrior saint and martyr dates back to the 12th century
to polarise voters. Within days, the case reached the Supreme but a later 17th century legend depicts him as a military com-
Court. The Shahi Jama Masjid Committee filed an urgent mander of Mahmud of Ghazni, in campaigns across north-
plea challenging the validity of the survey, arguing that it vio- ern India, including the plundering of the Somnath temple in
lated the Places of Worship Act. On November 29, the apex 1025 CE. The Neja Mela, observed by a section of the Muslim
court stayed proceedings in the Sambhal trial court (which community, involves raising a ceremonial flag (Neja) and
had mandated the surveys), ordered the survey report to be offering prayers to commemorate Ghazi.

A PR I L 7, 2 02 5 INDIA TODAY 27
 CHHAAVA: REVIEW

Film that Launched

a Thousand Protests
Action pyrotechnics and fire and brimstone dialogue
that fan the fire of nationalism—Chhaava follows
Bollywood's new template for historical extravaganzas

By SUH A NI SINGH

F
or nearly two Islam),” says Khanna’s
hours, Chhaava Aurangzeb in a final
runs like a offer of freedom to the
mishmash of brutalised Chhaava. The
the testosterone-heavy Maratha king, his spirit
Marvel and DC universe untethered, retorts,
action spectacles. Here, “Humse haath mila lo…
it leads to one battle after zindagi badal jaayegi
another, as Maratha king aur dharm bhi badalna
Chhatrapati Samb- nahin padega (Join
haji Maharaj (played by hands with Marathas.
Vicky Kaushal) duels Your life will change and ing of Chhaava for MPs Sambhaji, The Whirlwind
against a lion (cue Rus- you won’t even have to on March 27. on indiatoday.in. “His
sell Crowe in Gladiator), change your faith).” Unlike Sanjay Leela interest was in gaining
excels in aerial fights The 2-hour, 35 min- Bhansali’s Padmaavat, political control.”
and takes on the Mughal ute-long film directed Chhaava kept the vil- With Shivaji Sawa-
army, often single- by Laxman Utekar has lain’s screen time lim- nt’s book Chhaava as
handedly. Accompanied set the box office ablaze, ited and mostly avoided inspiration, the focus
by a bombastic back- amassing Rs 541 crore controversy, barring Raj was to highlight the
ground score by A.R. in six weeks. The film’s Thackeray and Maha- “warrior dimension” of
Rahman, the historical emphasis on Maratha
extravaganza comes pride and pluck has
CHHAAVA’S EMPHASIS ON MARATHA PRIDE
alive in the last half hour, contributed to a per- HAS TRIGGERED PERFORMATIVE RAPTURE
when the punches are formative rapture of IN CINEMAS—CHANTS, CHEERS AND TEARS
not literal, but verbal. sorts—clips show kids
With the protagonist and women tearing up
captured and chained, and chanting of slo- rashtra minister Uday Sambhaji, says Kaus-
audiences finally get to gans praising “Dhar- Samant taking offence tubh Savarkar, one of
see the daring hero and marakshak Sambhaji at the portrayal of the five script writers.
his enemy, a haggard Maharaj”. If Kaushal’s Sambhaji participating Savarkar attributed
Aurangzeb (Akshaye demanding physi- in a lejim dance. Utekar Chhaava’s appeal to the
Khanna), in one frame. cal act has won him a removed the sequence “emotional connect” au-
“Mughalon ki taraf new fan base, Kha nna promptly. Some question diences felt watching “a
aa jaaao. Zindagi badal as Aurangzeb is also a the cinematic liberties Hindu raja” espouse the
jaayegi. Bas tumhein scene-stealer, using his taken. “Religion was not cause of swaraj. While
apna dharm badalna hooded eyes to convey the only reason beh- Bhansali and Ashutosh
hoga (Join hands with malevolence. Such is ind Sambhaji’s death. Gowariker centred
the Mughals. Your life the enthusiasm that Conversion was not Au- their historical epics on
will change. All you Parliament in New Delhi rangzeb’s focus,” wrote romance, recent fare has
have to do is convert to hosted a special screen- Vishwas Patil, author of prioritised well-choreo-

28 INDIA TODAY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5
 C OVE R STO RY | WE A P O N IS IN G H ISTO RY

On March 17, the Sambhal administration, led by Assistant

Superintendent of Police (ASP) Shrish Chandra, denied permis-
sion for the Neja Mela, scheduled for March 25-27. The decision
followed discussions with the Neja Mela Committee, during which
objections were raised about honouring Ghazi. “History bears wit-
ness that he was a commander under Mahmud of Ghazni. He looted
Somnath, massacred people across the nation. No festival will be
held in memory of such a looter,” Chandra said. He warned that any
attempt to raise the Neja flag would be considered an “anti-national
act” and met with strict action.
The ban sparked outrage among
members of the Neja Mela Committee
THE HINDUTVA
and political leaders, who saw it as PROJECT, SAY
an infringement on religious tradi- ITS CRITICS, IS
FLAME THROWERS tions. SP MP Zia Ur Rehman Barq NOT BOUND BY
Vicky Kaushal as Chhatrapati strongly opposed the ban, defending HISTORICAL
Sambhaji Maharaj and Ghazi’s legacy. “It’s historically inaccu- AUTHENTICITY
Akshaye Khanna as Mughal rate to link him to the Somnath attack
emperor Aurangzeb in the
BUT DEPENDS
in 1026 CE, as Ghazi was only 11 years
smash-hit Chhaava ON CONSTANT
old at the time. Historians find no evi-
dence of his involvement. He was a
AROUSAL OF
revered Sufi saint who fought oppres- PASSIONATE
graphed action and personalities,” says sion and served humanity, not an RAGE
nationalism, but with Raut. After Chhaava’s invader,” he said. The ban in Sambhal
mixed results—Kan- success, Raut senses emboldened Hindu groups in Bahraich
gana Ranaut’s Mani- more conversation on and Bhadohi, which submitted memoranda on March 23, urging
karnika: The Queen of Indian history in the similar prohibitions. Incidentally, Ghazi’s dargah in Bahraich has
Jhansi clicked while film industry. “Today traditionally been a site of syncretic worship by both, Hindus and
others like Akshay we go to cinemas for Muslims. The VHP and other organisations alleged that the Neja
Kumar’s Samrat large-scale ex- Mela encouraged land encroachment and illegal conversions.
Prithviraj tanked. travaganza,” he says.
“That’s why historical
Whose History Is It Anyway?

C
hhaava is not films come into focus.
the first high- They inject pride and History, asserts author Nilanjan Mukhopadhyay, is being used
octane Hindi nationalism, you get as a clear tool for the enhancement of majoritarian politics. “We
film about Maratha inspired, learn not to in India have been witnessing the harnessing of history to create
valour. In 2019, repeat mistakes from public anger,” he says, adding that it was most evident during the
Gowariker’s ill-fated the past and move Ram temple movement of the mid-’80s. “The political message
Panipat was followed forward.” is clear—Hindus are the nation here, all others, particularly the
by Tanhaji—The Savarkar speaks Muslims, can live only as a matter of grace, not as a matter of right,”
Unsung Warrior with of how lives of other says Purushottam Agrawal.
Ajay Devgn in the figures in Maratha So, whether in Maharashtra or Uttar Pradesh—two of India’s
lead. Directed by Om history are ripe for most powerful states that send 48 and 80 legislators, respectively,
Raut, it netted Rs 270 larger-than-life to the Lok Sabha—Hindutva groups are raking up India’s medi-
crore. “As filmmakers, treatment, citing eval past to whip up public sentiment against everything Islamic
it’s our job to tell sto- Santaji Ghorpade, or Islamicate. Medieval rulers are branded as villains, even if truth
ries of lesser-known Tanhaji Jadhav and is seldom linear, or black and white. There is no room for nuance
individuals whose Tarabai. “If anybody or complexity. Author and retired IAS officer Vishwas Patil asserts,
sacrifices we don’t wants to do it, I am “History is not a slave to anyone but is based on factual realities.” He
know of and explore very much interest- cites instances of Muslim kings giving endowments to Hindu insti-
intricacies of their ed,” he says. n tutions, and vice versa. “After killing (the Adilshahi general) Afzal
Khan, Shivaji Maharaj provided land for his tomb and ensured its
upkeep from his own purse. Shivaji Maharaj’s father Shahaji and
uncle Sharifji were named after the Sufi saint Shah Sharif, whose

A PR I L 7, 2 02 5 INDIA TODAY 29
 INTERVIEW

“ Our focus is on
Mathura and
Kashi only ”
Vishva Hindu Parishad president Alok Kumar
spoke to Anilesh S. Mahajan on the row
surrounding Aurangzeb’s tomb and the Hindu
right’s temple revival movements. Excerpts:

ANI
Q. How do you see the
recent controversy
around Aurangzeb and sub-
Q. There is a similar confron-
tation at Sambhal in UP.
There is no confrontation with the
“There should
be no glorification
sequent violence in Nagpur? VHP there. There were law and of Aurangzeb.
Our view is very clear. There order issues, which the local gov- We are working to
should not be any glorification ernment dealt with. build monuments
of Aurangzeb…. He imprisoned to commemorate
his own father; brutally killed his Q. There have been concerns
own brothers; executed Sufi saint that a particular community
heroes who stood
Sarmad Kashani, Sikh Guru Tegh and its historical structures against him”
Bahadur; the entire family of Guru are being targeted. What is
Gobind Singh was killed on his your stand?
instructions; led large-scale con- As the VHP, we are very clear. We
versions; desecrated temples. He are taking up the issue of only in June 2022, had said that
can’t be our hero. Krishna Janmabhoomi temple there is no need to look for a
in Mathura and the revival of Shivling in every mosque. But
Q. There has been a call for ‘Gyanvapi Temple’ in Kashi. There we are still seeing lots of dis-
razing his tomb… is a full stop. We are taking legal putes being raked up.
The VHP and other affiliates are recourse and are determined to Absolutely. What the RSS chief
working to build monuments that recover these temples through con- says is true. We should look for
commemorate the heroes who stitutional ways. Gyanvapi, too, Shivlings only where they are; not
stood against Aurangzeb. It is their was desecrated by Aurangzeb. in every mosque. Right now, our
valour and courage that must be focus is on Mathura and Kashi,
taught to future generations. Q. RSS chief Mohan Bhagwat, and nowhere else. n

dargah is located in Ahmednagar,” he says. in his will,” he says. “He would have been interred here even
Chhatrapati Shivaji, meanwhile, has become a figure of if he died elsewhere. Claims that his grave being located in
unique historical and contemporary significance, with all Maharashtra symbolises Maratha valour do not hold.”
shades of public opinion appropriating the Maratha stal- Political analyst Abhay Deshpande is convinced that the
wart for political ends. While the Hindutva side sees him as Aurangzeb issue has been raised with an eye on the local body
a Hindu king taking on the might of the Muslim rulers, left- polls scheduled later this year. Besides catching the opposi-
ist ideologues like Govind Pansare project him as a people’s tion Shiv Sena (Uddhav Balasaheb Thackeray) in a bind on
king who took on the established order of the day across the issue of Hindutva—the SS(UBT) has developed an auxil-
caste and religious lines to establish a welfare state. iary base among Muslims—the controversy also laid bare the
In fact, Marathi historian Indrajeet Sawant sees Aurang- oneupmanship within the ruling alliance. “The BJP and Shiv
zeb’s tomb as a symbol of Maratha valour. Sanjay Sonawani, Sena are trying to show that their version of Hindutva is more
writer and activist, begs to differ, though. “Aurangzeb died at strident,” he says. Both parties have taken an aggressive posi-
age 89 and was buried at Khultabad as per the wish expressed tion on the issue, but their ally, the Nationalist Congress Party

30 INDIA TODAY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5
 C OVE R STO RY | WE A P O N IS IN G H ISTO RY

(NCP), led by deputy chief minister Ajit Pawar, has expressed battle in Mathura and even the Shahi Jama Masjid cam-
unease at the growing tide of majoritarian politics. Ajit Pawar paign in Sambhal are being fought in the courts of law. It
has warned that those threatening Muslims will not be spared. was the Supreme Court that permitted local officials to sur-
NCP leaders say law-and-order disruptions do not bode well vey the Gyanvapi Masjid even though it upheld the Places
for the state at a time it is trying to attract investors. Congress of Worship Act. Sangh affiliates are now challenging the
leaders too assert that communal issues are being raked up to very constitutionality of the 1991 legislation and the apex
deflect attention from more critical matters such as farmers’ court’s decision is awaited. Back in 2022, RSS chief Mohan
suicides and unemployment. Bhagwat had also told “overenthusiastic” swayamsevaks not
to look for shivlings under every mosque, as Sangh insiders
feared such “overexuberance” would turn the entire Muslim
The Hindutva Objectives community against them. When reminded of Bhagwat’s
Hindutva advocates, however, dismiss accusations of stoking statement, Alok Kumar interpreted it to mean “looking for
history for political gain. VHP president Alok Kumar is clear shivlings where they are”.
when he says, “There should be no glorification of Aurangzeb. Meanwhile, in Nagpur, a week after the initial unrest,
He imprisoned his own father, brutally killed his own broth- civic officials demolished the house of an accused in the
ers...led large-scale conversions, desecrated temples. He can’t riots. The Bombay High Court stayed the demolition of the
be our hero.” (See interview, ‘Our focus is on Mathura and Kashi properties of two persons accused of being involved in the
only’.) Author Amish (see column Time to Choose Our Heroes violence and warned the administration to follow the due
Wisely), while acknowledging the historical significance of process of law for any such activity. Curfew was lifted six
medieval Muslim rulers prefers that we “don’t celebrate them”. days after the violence, and a fragile peace hangs over the
Surprisingly, it is the RSS that has been advocating city beneath the looming cinematic backdrop of medieval
restraint. Following the construction of the Ram temple in bloodshed, and passions now projected in digital clarity, and
Ayodhya, the RSS has been more nuanced in its strategy. It has the surround-sound clangour of political mobilisation. n
warned the stormtroopers of the Sangh parivar not to engage
in any illegal activity for correcting historical wrongs but to —with Anilesh S. Mahajan, Amarnath K.
approach the courts for relief. Thus the Gyanvapi Masjid dis- Menon, Rohit Parihar, Ajay Sukumaran and
pute in Varanasi, the Krishna Janmabhoomi-Shahi Idgah Arkamoy Datta Majumdar
COVER S TO RY | GUEST C OLU M N

TIME TO
CHOOSE OUR
HEROES
WISELY
A quiet but significant debate has
been reignited following the release
of the film Chhaava—should India con-
tinue to preserve the tomb of Emperor
Aurangzeb who history unequivocally
remembers as a cruel, repressive and
sectarian ruler? Expectedly, the debate
AMISH is heated and polarised.
In my recent podcast episode of
‘Immortal India’, I attempted a calm,
respectful and honest approach on the issue. I attempt it
now in the written format.
Firstly, a clear statement: no culture with any sense
of self-respect or a desire to survive glorifies its historical
oppressors. France does not have memorials celebrating the
Nazi invaders. Israel does not name parks after Hitler. These
are not acts of erasing history but of self-respect. Memories
of such oppressors remain in books and museums—where
they belong—not in ceremonial public spaces.
India has witnessed horrific invasions and centuries of
subjugation. From the Turkic Delhi Sultans to the Timurid
Mughals to the British, we have seen wave after wave of
foreign domination. Yes, they left their mark. I write this
THE FIGHT-
very column in English, after all. Our architecture, cuisine, BACK The 28 ft
administrative systems—all bear traces of these past rulers. Netaji statue at
But acknowledging their influence is different from cel- India Gate was
ebrating them. The former is history. The latter is absurdity. unveiled in 2022
ANI

Imagine this: a family repeatedly brutalised by outsiders

later lovingly preserves the portraits of their tormentors in
their homes. Ridiculous, right? Or perhaps an internalised healed from.
inferiority complex? Yet, a curiously damaging hypocrisy has emerged in
We are not that family. We should not be. modern India. The Left-liberal discourse rightly demands a
India has been shaped by many forces—both noble and confrontation with the second crime—caste-based oppres-
ignoble. But let us be honest in recognising the duality of sion—and insists on social justice through reservations and
major historical crimes in our land. The first was the brutal dialogue. We have seen progress—India’s first full-term
violence unleashed by foreign invaders—Turkic (who were OBC prime minister, and a president from a Scheduled
Muslim), and British (who were Christian). The second was Tribe background. These are signs of movement in the right
the internal oppression of our backward and Dalit com- direction, even if we have further to go.
munities by upper castes. Both have wounded our civilisa- But the same Left-liberal voices often counsel silence on
tion deeply. And both must be remembered, mourned, and the first crime. They say, “Let’s not talk about the violence

32 INDIA TODAY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5
 WHY ARE
by Muslim or British invaders. It may upset the social
fabric.” But why? Why must one trauma be remembered,
and the other buried?

WE DIGGING
This selective amnesia breeds resentment. If truth
and reconciliation is healing caste wounds to a com-
mendable extent, why can’t the same principle be applied

GRAVES OF
to historical wounds left by foreign conquest?
Let us be clear: this is not about blaming today’s
Muslims or Christians. Just as no reasonable Dalit child

THE PAST?
today blames an upper-caste child personally for histori-
cal injustice. We must not identify today’s communities
with past atrocities. But we must remember the past
honestly—because memory is the foundation of wisdom.
And if we are to celebrate, let us celebrate our
heroes—not our oppressors. The canopy at India Gate The demand to dismantle the
in Delhi once housed the statue of the colonial emperor grave of Aurangzeb is only the
King George V. Today, it houses the statue of Netaji latest in a drama series of which
Subhas Chandra Bose. The symbolism is clear: we must some episodes have been aired
honour those who fought for us, not those who oppressed while others are in the pipeline.
us. Shouldn’t we extend this logic across India? The series is the project of politi-
Let us celebrate Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj, the cal Hindutva which has been
lion who stood tall against Timurid-Mughal imperial tyr- PURUSHOTTAM unfolding vigorously for some
AGRAWAL
anny. Let us honour the valiant time, and Aurangzeb is one of the
Sikh gurus who resisted forced most important figures in this
NO CULTURE conversions. Let us teach our narrative. Seen objectively in a historical perspective,
WITH ANY children about the Ahom gener- Aurangzeb was ruthlessly consistent in the pursuit of
SENSE OF als of Assam, the Jat warriors, power and more cruel than the average medieval king.
SELF-RESPECT the Naga babas and many oth- He was also very suspicious, even intolerant of artistic
OR A DESIRE
ers who defended our culture expressions of human creativity. But the fact remains
TO SURVIVE
GLORIFIES ITS from Aurangzeb’s attacks. that he presided over the centralised administration of
HISTORICAL Even within the Timurid- an Indian empire of unprecedented vastness and with
OPPRESSORS Mughal dynasty, there were a robust economy. And he did it with the active support
men of wisdom and compas- of the Hindu elites—feudal lords, merchants and intel-
sion. Dara Shikoh—Aurangzeb’s lectuals. He also could not hold it together due to the
elder brother—sought to bridge Hinduism and Islam. sheer burden of its size and, perhaps more importantly,
He translated many of the Upanishads to Persian, and due to not paying enough attention to Akbar’s model of
authored Majma-ul-Bahrain, a book that sought the con- sulah-e-kul (tolerance and dialogue)—as pointed out by
fluence of the two faiths. He imagined an India united in Shivaji in a famous letter.
spirit, diverse in form. And what was his fate? Tortured, Obviously, present-day political Hindutva would
mutilated and executed by Aurangzeb, who sent his head reject even Shivaji here. How can one praise Akbar and
in a box to their father, Emperor Shah Jahan. his policies? After all, he was also a Mughal, a Muslim
Should we memorialise Aurangzeb or Dara Shikoh? hence an alien to the Hindu rashtra. The question,
The answer is clear. One symbolises tyranny and bigotry. ‘Who says Akbar was great?’, is not merely the title of
The other, inclusivity and wisdom. Aurangzeb’s ideology a tract by Hindutva ‘historian’ P.N. Oak, but has also
is celebrated in Pakistan. Perhaps we should respectfully been part of the general Hindutva rhetoric. Just nine
send his bones to them. In its place, let us build a memo- years ago, some of the BJP’s top leaders wanted Akbar
rial to Dara Shikoh, as a symbol of true Ganga-Jamuni Road in Delhi to be renamed.
tehzeeb, one that reflects mutual respect, not erasure. Be it the Gyanvapi mosque in Varanasi, a road in
India is a civilisational state, not just a nation-state. Lutyens’ Delhi, a masjid in Sambhal or the grave in
Civilisations do not forget. And they do not foolishly Sambhajinagar, the imagination of our future is also at
honour their tormentors. It is time we choose our civili- stake here, not merely the facts of the past. In both its
sational heroes wisely. n avatars—recorded history and popular memory—the
past is sought to be converted into raw material for
Amish is a bestselling author and broadcaster manufacturing consent on the Hindutva project. The

A PR I L 7, 2 02 5 INDIA TODAY 33
 COVER S TO RY | GUEST C OLU M N

SEEING RED A Bajrang Dal

protest demanding removal
of the Aurangzeb tomb in
Sambhajinagar, Mar. 17
PTI

appetite is insatiable. Following Aurangzeb’s grave, the Taj This claim hardly holds water as it refuses to see the
Mahal and the Lal Qila could be next in line. After all, in dynamic character of Indian cultural experience and its
the Hindutva imagination, the Taj Mahal was originally a diversity. On the other hand, the inclusive idea of India rec-
Shiva temple and Lal Qila was the Lal Kot constructed by ognises both the long continuity of Indian civilisation and
the Tomar dynasty. its historically evolving diversity. Jawaharlal Nehru most
The point, therefore, is to assess this project. Is it capa- appropriately compared Indian civilisation to a palimpsest
ble of carrying Indian society into a prosperous and happy carrying traces of so many writings over the centuries. The
future? Is it even authentic historically? Ironically, the proj- Indian national movement undertook the task of evolving a
ect itself does not seem confident in this regard and hence modern nation out of this palimpsest-like civilisation.
takes recourse to hurt sentiments instead of reasoned dis- This undertaking required, and still requires, negoti-
course. Like any totalitarian political project, Hindutva also ating historical tensions, caste, community and cultural
heavily depends on a constant arousal of passionate rage fault-lines within the framework of a shared imagination
and hurt and has acquired the vocal of a humane and democratic society.
support of large sections of our mass It hardly matters to Akbar, Shahjahan
media which are willingly fanning the LIKE ANY TOTALITARIAN and Aurangzeb what you do with their
POLITICAL PROJECT,
fires instead of providing space for seri- various memorials, but it matters a lot
HINDUTVA ALSO DEPENDS
ous discussions on real issues of gover- HEAVILY ON A CONSTANT to the present and future of India as a
nance. The real content here is political, AROUSAL OF PASSIONATE civilisation and as a nation-state. Can
not historical, otherwise the demands RAGE AND HURT we build a happy future on the basis of
for removing the vestiges of the British constant demonisation of some Indians
raj would also be made with the same merely on the basis of their faith sys-
passion. The political message is clear—Hindus are the tem? Can a society afford to be constantly angry over its
nation here, all others, and particularly the Muslims, can past? Can we erase history by demolishing a grave and by
live only as a matter of grace, not as a matter of right. utterly simplifying the character of any historical figure and
Political Hindutva’s existential dependence on the his/ her times? Do we prefer to preserve the palimpsest of
Muslim as the permanently frightening Other has historical Indian civilisation or tear it apart? Do we imagine ourselves
roots, but cannot be addressed merely through historians’ as building the edifice of the future or digging up the graves
interventions, howsoever authentic and sincere. It can be of past? This is the real question, and our future depends on
addressed only through the politics of a future-oriented, how it is answered. n
inclusive and democratic idea of India, which formed the
core of our national movement and had so far been gener- Purushottam Agrawal is a historian and author who has
ally hegemonic. Hindutva seeks to replace this idea with its engaged with Hindu nationalism for five decades now.
own version, claiming civilisational authenticity. He is currently writing a book on the Mahabharata

34 INDIA TODAY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5
DOOMED BY DAMS GETTY IMAGES
Aerial view of the Yarlung
Tsangpo’s Great Bend,
Medog County, China

THE BIG STORY / THE BRAHMAPUTRA

A HIMALAYAN
RIVER THREAT
CHINA’S COLOSSAL BRAHMAPUTRA DAM PROJECT SPARKS ALARM IN INDIA,
FUELLING CONCERNS OVER WATER SECURITY, ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT AND
BEIJING’S GROWING UPSTREAM CONTROL OVER A CRITICAL RIVER

By KAUSHIK DEKA
CHINA’S MEGA What follows is pure fury. The river plunges into the Yarlung

DAM, INDIA’S Tsangpo Grand Canyon, a monstrous 500km-long chasm with

depths exceeding 5,000 metres—nearly five times the height

COUNTER
of Dubai’s Burj Khalifa, the tallest structure in the world. It
is one of the deepest and most treacherous canyons on the
planet, where the river transforms into a roaring beast, its
China is planning a massive hydropower waters churning with an unstoppable force. This is where China
project in Medog County, just 30 km from wants to step in. The steep gradient at the Great Bend holds
Arunachal Pradesh. In response, India aims
unparalleled hydroelectric potential that Beijing is determined
to fast-track the Siang Upper Multipurpose
to exploit. The plan? A colossal hydropower project embedded
Project at Parong in the state
deep into the unforgiving terrain of Medog County, Tibet—one
of the last unexplored and most geologically unstable regions
MEDOG SIANG UPPER on Earth. It is a project of staggering proportions, a testament
DAM, CHINA DAM, INDIA to human ambition and engineering audacity.
With an estimated cost of $137 billion (Rs 11.9 lakh crore),
this is poised to become the most powerful hydropower facility

$ 137 $ 17 ever attempted, generating a jaw-dropping 60 GW of electricity

annually—three times the output of China’s own Three Gorges
ESTIMATED
COST Dam, the current world record-holder, and surpassing the UK’s
BILLION BILLION entire annual energy consumption. Expected to be completed by
(`11.9 lakh cr.) (`1.5 lakh cr.) 2033, the scale of the project is mind-boggling. To divert nearly
half of the river’s flow, Chinese engineers plan to drill tunnels
up to 12.5 miles long through the Namcha Barwa mountain,

60
GW PER
POWER
GENERATION
11
GW PER
rerouting 2,000 cubic metres of water per second—enough to
fill three Olympic-sized swimming pools every second.

India’s Great Worry

YEAR YEAR While China presents the project as a step toward achieving
carbon neutrality by 2060, for India and Bangladesh, it signals

5.5 9.2
a looming disaster. The dam’s location, barely 30 km from
Arunachal Pradesh, places it alarmingly close to India’s border,
raising security concerns in New Delhi. Worst-case scenarios
WATER
throw up a nightmarish picture: if the dam were to fail—due
BILLION STORAGE BILLION
to engineering flaws, an earthquake or even sabotage—the
CUBIC CUBIC
consequences would be catastrophic. A towering surge of water
METRES METRES
could rip through Arunachal Pradesh and Assam, wiping out
entire towns within minutes. “This Chinese project isn’t just a
tease,” says Michael Kugelman, director of the Washington-based
South Asia Institute. “China has the capacity to mobilise capital
quickly and build out large-scale infrastructure projects without

O
riginating from the icy grip of the delays, thanks to its centralised economy and undemocratic
Angsi Glacier, near the northern politics. This means New Delhi needs to start thinking now about
how to mitigate the possible deleterious implications—especially
slopes of the Himalayas, close to
for water security, the environment and geopolitics.”
Lake Manasarovar in western Tibet,
The Brahmaputra is a vital artery that sustains millions across
the Yarlung Tsangpo—known as
four countries—China (50.5 per cent), India (33.6), Bangladesh
Siang in Arunachal Pradesh and the (8.1) and Bhutan (7.8). More than just a waterway, it sustains
Brahmaputra in Assam—embarks agriculture, drinking water and energy needs, making any
on a long and winding 2,900 km journey. It flows disruption to its flow a serious concern. For India, the primary
eastward across the Tibetan Plateau, a seemingly worry is China’s ability to control the Brahmaputra’s flow. If
calm giant, until it reaches the easternmost edge Beijing releases excess water during monsoons, devastating floods
of the Himalayas. And then, it encounters an could ravage India’s northeastern states, particularly Assam and
obstacle—a towering 7,782-metre peak called Arunachal Pradesh, where nearly 40 per cent of the land is already
the Namcha Barwa. But the river does not stop. flood-prone. The fallout—mass displacement, infrastructure
In one of nature’s most breathtaking feats, it collapse and economic devastation—would be severe.
takes a dramatic U-turn around the mountain— Conversely, restricting water flow during dry months could
the Great Bend, one of the sharpest and most cripple agriculture, hydropower generation and drinking water
spectacular river bends on Earth. supplies. Given that the Brahmaputra accounts for nearly 30

Graphics by TANMOY CHAKRABORTY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5 INDIA TODAY 37

THE BIG STORY Zangmu
hydropower
THE BR A HM A PU TR A project, Gyaca
County, China

per cent of India’s freshwater resources, What raises even deeper concerns
any interference poses a strategic threat. is China’s broader ambition—to divert
“The proposed hydropower project has the Yarlung Tsangpo to its arid Xinjiang
the potential to alter the flow dynamics province. Gopal Dhawan, founder and
of the Yarlung Tsangpo-Brahmaputra, chairman of the Dr Dhawan Academy
affecting water availability, by influencing of Geologists, and former CMD, Mineral
both groundwater and surface water Exploration and Consultancy Ltd and
levels,” warns Genevieve Donnellon-May, NHPC, warns that if China stores and
a researcher at the Oxford Global Society. redirects water through an inter-basin
transfer scheme, “any projects we develop

F
or Assam, the implications for will face water shortages and be adversely
agriculture are particularly affected.” Though several experts rule

AFP
alarming. The river’s nutrient- out any such possibility, doubts persist.
rich sediments sustain rice, tea “The Medog dam appears to be a

A LONG
and jute cultivation. Any disruption— hydroelectric project rather than a water
excessive flooding or drought—could storage and diversion initiative. But given
slash crop yields, threaten food security
and financially cripple thousands of
China’s track record of undertaking
large-scale infrastructure projects, COURSE
farmers. If upstream damming reduces such a possibility cannot be ruled out,” The Yarlung Tsangpo
sediment f low, it could accelerate says A.K. Bajaj, former chairman of originates from the
riverbank erosion, degrade soil fertility the Central Water Commission. Amid Angsi Glacier near Lake
and leave lasting ecological scars. these uncertainties, New Delhi has Manasarovar in western
India’s concerns over China’s hydro- made its apprehensions clear to Beijing. Tibet and flows into the
power ambitions are well founded. In “We have consistently raised concerns Bay of Bengal. The
2000, severe f looding in Arunachal over China’s mega river projects,” says Brahmaputra River extends
Pradesh’s Pasighat was linked to a foreign ministry spokesperson Randhir across four countries
dam collapse on Tibet’s Yigong River. Jaiswal, asserting India’s lower riparian
In 2012, the Siang River mysteriously rights. He states that India will continue CHINA INDIA
ran dry, prompting then chief minister pressing China to safeguard downstream
advisor Tako Dabi to blame China’s interests and “take necessary measures to 50.5 % 33.6 %
dams. In 2016, China blocked the protect our interests”.
Xiabuqu River near India’s border for
the Lalho hydropower project, further
raising suspicions. A year later, the
Siang’s waters turned black, igniting
accusations against China. While Beijing
dismissed the claims, satellite images BHUTAN BANGLADESH
later revealed that earthquakes on the
Tibetan Plateau had triggered landslides, 8.1% % 7.8
sending sediment downstream. “Storing
water in a reg ion w ith ex tensive “This region is the most
mineral extraction—Tibet is home to
over 100 exploited minerals—leads
sediment-rich and China’s Water Hegemony
to contamination as mining runoff sediment-producing area The Tibetan Plateau feeds 10 major
mixes with the water, forming black on Earth. As a result, river systems sustaining over a dozen
soot. Arunachal Pradesh has already dams here degrade Asian nations. Among them, two
seen instances of blackened water,” faster, increasing the stand out for their geopolitical weight:
says Srikanth Kondapalli, professor of the Mekong, which courses through
Chinese Studies at Jawaharlal Nehru
risk for downstream Southeast Asia, and the Brahmaputra.
University. Adding to the uncertainty, populations” China’s aggressive dam-building along
open-source data from the Tibetan RUTH GAMBLE
these rivers has triggered alarm over its
Autonomous Region suggests irregular Deputy Director (Research), La Trobe push for hydro-hegemony, particularly
river flow patterns in 2024, deviating Asia, La Trobe University, Australia given its refusal to sign water-sharing
from the trends of the past 25 years. treaties. China’s treatment of the

38 INDIA TODAY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5
 The
Great
8. Langzhen
T I B E T 3. Zangmu 4. Jiacha
Bend
DAM OR
2. Jiexu
1. Dagu
5. Lengda
7. Bayu
MEDOG
DISASTER?
Yarlung Tsangpo Why China’s Medog dam plan
6. Zhongda

Si
is dangerous for India and

an
the Himalayan ecology

g
ARUNACHAL
PRADESH  By controlling the Brahmaputra’s
flow, China gains a strategic tool in
t ra broader India-China relations,
pu especially in border negotiations
h ma
ASSAM B ra
 If China releases excess water during
the monsoons, India’s Northeast could
I N D I A face catastrophic floods; restricting the
flow during dry months could cripple
agriculture and energy supply
 Disruptions in the Brahmaputra’s
flow could devastate rice, tea and jute
cultivation, threatening farmers’

CHINA’S 5. LENGDA
Gyaca
livelihoods
 Dam construction may block
HYDROPOWER 320 MW sediment flow, degrading soil fertility
and accelerating riverbank erosion
UNIVERSE Work likely to
begin this year  Indian power plants relying on the
Brahmaputra could face blackouts if
Besides the colossal Medog project, 6. ZHONGDA China manipulates water levels
China has completed three other
projects on the Yarlung Tsangpo, has Zhongda  The region’s fragile geomorphology
one more under construction, and 320 MW makes dam failures from landslides or
glacial lake outbursts a serious concern
plans to build four additional ones Proposed
 Large-scale deforestation for the
1. DAGU 3. ZANGMU 7. BAYU project could accelerate landslides and
Gyaca County reduce soil stability
Sangri Zengqi
660 MW 510 MW 800 MW  The Himalayas are highly
Operational Proposed earthquake-prone. The massive dam
Operational
since 2015 could trigger reservoir-induced
since 2021
seismicity and destabilise the Earth’s
fault lines, further increasing
2. JIEXU 4. JIACHA 8. LANGZHEN
earthquake risks
Sangri Jiacha Lang
 There is apprehension that China may
510 MW 360 MW 340 MW use the dam to divert the Brahmaputra’s
Under Operational Proposed flow to arid regions under the South-
construction since 2020 North Water Transfer Project

Mekong offers a stark warning for India power-line maintenance—without prior stretch was marked for hydropower as
and Bangladesh. Over two decades, notice, leaving millions struggling for early as 2003. Since the 2010s, China
Beijing has constructed 12 massive irrigation, fisheries and drinking water. has steadily expanded its hydropower
dams along the river’s upper reaches, These unilateral actions stoke fears that footprint on the Brahmaputra’s upper
disrupting natural flows and worsening Beijing could deploy similar tactics on reaches. The Zangmu dam, completed
environmental stress downstream. In the Brahmaputra. in 2015, set the stage for f ur ther
2019, despite above-average rainfall, The Medog dam isn’t an isolated projects at Dagu, Jiacha and Jiexu.
China’s upstream dams hoarded record project but part of a grand strategy. Satellite imagery now reveals nearly 20
amounts of water, triggering droughts Saya na ngshu Moda k , a doc t ora l dams—large and small—along the river,
in Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. researcher at the University of Arizona’s signalling Beijing’s long-term water
In 2021, it slashed the Mekong’s flow School of Geography, Development and ambitions. “The new move appears to
by 50 per cent for three weeks—citing Environment, says the Yarlung Tsangpo be the latest step by Beijing to maintain

A PR I L 7, 2 02 5 INDIA TODAY 39
THE BIG STORY HOW INDIA
THE BR A HM A PU TR A SHOULD
RESPOND
THE MANY WAYS IN WHICH
an upper hand in the region’s water INDIA CAN COUNTER CHI-
geography,” says Kugelman. NA’S WATER DOMINANCE
India is also wary of the timing of
the Medog dam approval, which came
just as New Delhi and Beijing resumed  Instead of relying on tem-
talks after a prolonged diplomatic freeze porary MoUs with China, India
post-Doklam (2017) and Galwan (2020). must push for a legally binding
treaty that guarantees fair and

ALAMY
Many analysts see it as a calculated move
to pressure India in border negotiations. transparent water distribution
By intertwining territorial disputes with
transboundary rivers, Beijing is likely  An alliance with lower by investing in advanced flood
angling for strategic concessions. riparian nations like Bangla- forecasting, efficient drainage
desh, Bhutan and Nepal can networks and climate-resilient
A Himalayan Blunder? increase diplomatic pres- infrastructure to safeguard
As debate rages over the potential sure on China to adopt more vulnerable regions. Cutting-
impact of the Medog Dam on India and
responsible water-sharing edge surveillance technology
policies. India should demand should be deployed to monitor
Bangladesh, one fact is undisputed:
year-round hydrological Chinese dam activities in real-
its construction poses irreversible
data-sharing rather than time and identify any unusual
ecological risks to the fragile Himalayan
just seasonal flood reports to changes in water flow
region. Dams can trigger tremors, prevent unexpected surges or
a phenomenon known as reservoir- shortages
induced seismicity—when the immense
 To counter China’s growing
influence over the Brahma-
weight of impounded water destabilises
 India needs to strengthen putra, India must expedite
fault lines of the Earth. “The sheer
its river management systems the construction of the Siang
weight of a vast reservoir could induce
small earthquakes by exerting pressure
on the Earth’s crust. In an already
hyper-seismic zone, the consequences
of such stress remain dangerously
“We have consistently raised
unpredictable,” warn Robert Wasson, concerns over China’s mega river
adjunct professor, College of Science and projects. India will continue
Engineering, James Cook University, pressing China to take necessary
Australia, and emeritus professor, measures to protect our interests”
Fenner School of Environment and
RANDHIR JAISWAL Spokesperson, Ministry of
Society Australian National University,
External Affairs
and Shukla Acharjee, assistant professor,
Centre for Studies in Geography,
Dibrugarh University.
Beyond seismic threats, the dam’s metres,” says Modak. Wasson and in Tibet found structural cracks in five,
sheer scale demands mass deforestation, Acharjee note that the Tsangpo Gorge is forcing three to be emptied. “This region
stripping the region of its green cover one of the most geologically dynamic— is the most sediment-rich and sediment-
and natural stabilisers. Without tree and possibly the most active—regions producing area on Earth. As a result, dams
roots anchoring the soil, heavy monsoon on Earth. “It experiences extreme here degrade faster, increasing the risk
rains could trigger deadly mudslides, f loods, with peak f lows reaching up for downstream populations,” says Ruth
raising the risk of dam failure. to a million cubic metres per second. Gamble, deputy director (research), La
The Himalayas, already crumbling A single such flood can erode as much Trobe Asia, La Trobe University, Australia,
under climate stress, have seen a surge of the gorge as 4,000 years’ worth of who specialises in the environmental,
in Glacial Lake Outburst Floods, annual flow,” they add. cultural and climate history of Tibet, the
avalanches and landslides. “On March The region’s volatile geo-morphology Himalayas and Asia.
22, 2021, a massive glacier collapsed also makes dam stability a growing On its part, China insists the Medog
in the Sedongpu River basin, on the concern. Earthquakes, heavy siltation project is a clean energy game-changer,
left bank of the Grand Canyon of the and landslides will shorten the dams’ not a geopolitical weapon. Wang Lei,
Yarlung Tsangpo and blocked the river lifespan. After the January 7 earthquake, chargé d’affaires at the Chinese Embassy
and caused water levels to rise by 10 inspections of 14 hydropower dams in India, dismisses concerns about adverse

40 INDIA TODAY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5
 WAITING TO BE DAMMED
The Siang River near Along in
Arunachal Pradesh

appropriation”—which grants water the dam race, as it could prompt China to

rights to the first user—India’s plan aims fast-track its own projects, capitalising
to pre-emptively secure control over the on its superior execution speed to shift
river’s f low. “India can still challenge the balance further in its favour. Such
Beijing by constructing its own dams near a move might also strain relations with
the border, keeping China on edge. This Bangladesh, a crucial dow nstream
would give New Delhi some leverage in stakeholder in any future Brahmaputra
potential water negotiations with Beijing,” basin management framework. “The
says Kugelman. concerns we’ve raised about China’s
After Beijing announced the Medog pr oj e c t s a r e e q u a l l y r e l e v a nt t o
Upper Multipurpose Project in Dam, India has accelerated plans for Bangladesh,” notes Prof. B.R. Deepak of
Arunachal Pradesh. Addition- the Siang Upper Multipurpose Project the Centre for Chinese & Southeast Asian
ally, large reservoirs and artifi- (SUMP)—a colossal hydropower dam in Studies at JNU.
cial lakes should be developed Arunachal Pradesh intended to counter Rather than pursuing a spree of
to store excess water released China’s inf luence over the river. With dam construction, experts urge India
by China, reducing the risk a proposed capacity of 11,000 MW, to strengthen its northeastern water
of sudden floods and water
SUMP’s reservoir would hold 9.2 billion management systems. This includes
shortages
cubic metres (bcm) of water, compared to enhancing independent river f low
Medog’s 5.5 bcm. Estimated at $17 billion monitoring from China using advanced
 A robust disaster manage- (Rs 1.5 lakh crore), it will be India’s most satellite technology, refining flood risk
ment system needs to be es- powerful hydroelectric project, designed assessments and upgrading telemetry
tablished to effectively respond to regulate water flow, mitigate seasonal stations. Gamble points out that India
to unexpected water surges or
droughts and ser ve as a safeg uard lags behind China in studying Himalayan
supply disruptions caused by
against sudden surges from Chinese ecology and river systems. “India has yet
Chinese dam operations
dams. While feasibility surveys are to thoroughly analyse the flow data China
underway in Parong, a remote hamlet in has provided on the Yarlung Tsangpo.
Siang district, SUMP has faced resistance Instead of issuing threats over dam
impacts on India and Bangladesh, since its proposal by NITI Aayog in 2017. construction, India must invest in a deeper
framing the project as a climate-friendly The project threatens to submerge over understanding of the region’s hydrology
solution that will power 300 million 30 villages, putting thousands at risk and risks. Armed with this knowledge,
people while curbing fossil fuel use. of displacement. it c a n engage Ch i na i n i n for me d
Backing this stance, Chinese foreign Experts also warn against escalating negotiations, presenting concrete evidence
ministr y spokesperson Guo Jiakun on the downstream impacts,” she asserts.
says the project underwent rigorous India and China share several major
scientific evaluation and poses no risk rivers, including the Brahmaputra, Sutlej
to downstream ecosystems, geological and Indus. However, water-sharing
stability or water rights. Instead, Beijing remains a contentious issue, in the absence
argues it will help mitigate f loods and of a formal treaty. Despite China’s upper
aid climate adaptation in India and riparian advantage, India can push for
Bangladesh. However, China’s assurances stronger data-sharing commitments
on the Medog Dam ring hollow, given its under international conventions like the
track record of secrecy, unilateralism and “New Delhi needs to UN Watercourses Convention, which
broken commitments on transboundary start thinking now mandates that no country can take actions
rivers. Independent researcher Gabriel
about how to mitigate significantly harming another. However,
Lafitte has highlighted that past Chinese neither India nor China is a signatory,
project announcements have been long on the possible deleterious and no Brahmaputra basin nation has
statistics but short on execution details. implications—especially ratified the 2014 UN Convention on Non-
for water security, Navigational Water Uses, rendering first-
India’s Counter the environment and user rights unenforceable.
A decade ago, India embarked on a
defensive hydropower strategy to counter
geopolitics” In the Brahmaputra’s turbulent
waters, survival will depend not on
China’s upstream dam-building spree MICHAEL KUGELMAN the might of dams but on the foresight
on the Brahmaputra. Rooted in the Director, South Asia Institute, Washington of nations. n
international legal principle of “prior - with India Today NE Bureau

A PR I L 7, 2 02 5 INDIA TODAY 41
 LEADING THE WAY India Today Group Editorial Director (Publishing) Raj Chengappa (extreme left)

THE NEW PA
INDIA TODAY GROUP’S ‘DRIVERS OF CHANGE’
RECOGNISES 15 VISIONARIES WHOSE
INNOVATION, ACTIVISM AND HERITAGE
PRESERVATION ARE SHAPING THE FUTURE
By Suhani Singh / Photographs by MILIND SHELTE, MANDAR DEODHAR

n environmental activist preserving centu- edition of Drivers of Change. Organised

A
ries-old root bridges in Meghalaya (Morn- by the India Today Group in collaboration
ingstar Khongthaw); a doctor (Shalini with Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd, India’s
Mishra) who left her medical practice to leading SUV manufacturer, the event held
work for cow protection; a mechanical en- on March 17 in Mumbai recognised 15
gineer (Vimal Govind M.K. of Genrobotics) individuals across India who through their
who has developed the world’s first man- work are ensuring that ‘Swarnim Bharat:
hole-cleaning robot in a bid to eliminate Virasat aur Vikas’ becomes a reality.
manual scavenging and a social worker Rajesh Jejurikar, executive director
(Sudha Varghese) who moved to Bihar at & CEO, auto & farm sector, Mahindra &
age 16 to uplift the marginalised Musahar Mahindra Ltd, highlighted how India is
community. These were just some of the a nation which has embraced modernity
changemakers celebrated at the second and technology but done so “within the
and Auto Today Editor Yogendra Pratap (10th from left) with ‘Drivers of Change’ achievers in Mumbai

THBREAKERS
guardrails of tradition and heritage”. activism. In the first, three innova- Apart from the winners, Arund-
Fittingly so then, rudra veena maestro tors—Vimal Govind, Neha Juneja, hati Bhattacharya, chairperson and
Ustad Bahauddin Dagar kicked off the co-founder & CEO of IndiaP2P, and CEO, Salesforce India and South
evening, acquainting audiences to the oncologist Dr Vishal Rao—described Asia, and former chairperson, SBI;
rich sound of the majestic instrument. how their devices such as a smart, Ashima Goyal, economist; and
One of the recipients of the Drivers clean stove are transforming lives actor-filmmaker Boman Irani shared
of Change recognition, apart from and helping to build a more ‘Swarnim insights from their eventful careers.
preserving the distinct performing Bharat’. In the other, crusaders While Bhattacharya spoke of the need
art, he is also playing an active role in working for conservation of animals, for an empathetic environment at the
making the instrument. He wasn’t the preserving nature and advocating workplace to “support women staff”
only achiever to walk the stage bare- for organ donation took centre stage and Goyal noted a rise in women’s
foot. Mohiniyattam dancer Methil to recount their journeys against all participation in the workforce, Irani
Devika performed an invocatory piece odds. They included Jagat Kinkhab- regaled audiences with a treasure trove
on Goddess Bhadrakali as well as wala, heralded as the Sparrow Man of anecdotes and rallied support for
spoke on her attempts to make dance of India for distributing free nests screenwriters in cinema. Combined
accessible to the hearing impaired by that have led to a surge in the bird’s with umpteen stories of determina-
incorporating sign language in the population, and Varghese, also known tion, activism, innovation and passion,
classical movement vocabulary. as Sister Sudha, whose Nari Gunjan the evening was proof that India’s pride
Two of the most inspiring sessions has championed the rights of Bihar’s lies in its ability to appreciate the past
touched on technology and social Musahar community. as well as move forward. n
 HALL OF FAME:
DINESH BHIL RADHIKARAJE
Archery trainer, Eklavya Archery GAEKWAD
Training Academy, Naswadi, Gujarat Handicraft crusader and
Despite acute poverty and lim- textile revivalist
ited access to education, he Revived traditional weaving
has coached hundreds of tribal techniques of Chanderi and
youth in central Gujarat Baroda Shalu sarees

DR VISHAL RAO
Oncologist and robotic surgeon,
Trustwell Hospital, Bengaluru
Invented voice prosthesis Aum
that ‘cheats the brain’ into using
the food pipe as its voice box. It
has benefited over 4,000 patients

METHIL DEVIKA USTAD BAHAUDDIN

Mohiniyattam dance guru and DAG AR
performer Rudra veena maestro
Merged Indian sign language Kept the Dagar Vani style of
with the traditional hasta dhrupad alive on the rudra
mudras (hand gestures) in her veena. He is an educator of the
performances art for the future generations

DR SHALINI MISHRA
Cow protection activist; Director,
Dhyan Foundation Gaushala
Her gaushala in Jharkhand’s East
Singhbhum district is a sanctuary
for nearly 14,500 cattle cared for
by a team of 300 locals

MORNINGSTAR SUDHA VARGHESE

KHONGTHAW Social worker; CEO, Nari Gunjan
Environmental activist; Founder, Transforming the lives of
Living Roots Bridges Foundation the Musahar community of
His foundation protects and Bihar. Crafting programmes
promotes the trees crafted in literacy, vocational train-
from Ficus elastica roots by the ing, healthcare and advocacy
Khasi tribe. Maintains ageing for Dalit girls and women to
bridges, builds new ones reclaim their dignity
THE ACHIEVERS
PAWAN CHANDANA
Co-founder & CEO, Skyroot Aerospace
Skyroot Aerospace, which
launched India’s first private com-
mercial rocket in 2022, is a fore-
runner aiming to tap a growing
global demand for launch vehicles

CHANDRADEEP KUMAR
NILESH MANDLEWALA
JAGAT KINKHABWALA Organ donation awareness activist;
Environment activist; Founder & President, Donate Life
Sparrow Man of India Spreading awareness about
Spreading awareness about organ donation, addressing
sparrow conservation. Has dis- concerns, misconceptions and
tributed 260,000 free nests myths about it

NEHA JUNEJA
CEO & Co-founder, Greenway
Appliances
Greenway replaces traditional
mud stoves with its smart stove,
which reduces smoke by 70%
and cuts fuel usage by 65%

KAMIYA JANI
YOGESH MALVIYA Social media influencer
Mallakhamb coach Connecting people with India’s
Keeping the traditional Indian culinary traditions; received
sport alive by teaching young- the National Creator Award as
sters as the district coach of the Best Travel Creator from PM
Shajapur, Madhya Pradesh Narendra Modi last year

VIMAL GOVIND M.K.

Co-founder and CEO,
Genrobotics Innovations
‘Bandicoot’, the world’s first
robotic scavenger, is deployed
across over 23 states. He has also
contributed to the development
of G-Gaiter, an advanced exoskel-
eton designed to assist people
with mobility impairments
Photograph by BANDEEP SINGH

“Viksit Bharat is possible, if and only if, the

growth is inclusive. It cannot be growth con-
fined to creating a few billionaires”
NARENDRA JADHAV
Former Rajya Sabha MP

“Freebies
like the
Ladki Bahin
scheme are
not enough.
Women
aspire to
make a name
in some field
as well as
contribute
to the family
income”
ASHIMA
GOYAL
Economist
and Emeritus
Professor, IGIDR

“I don’t think we pay enough “My message

to women
attention to writing that professionals is:
much, which really bothers have the resilience
me. We need to nurture to trust yourselves
writers and make sure their and rise again
name is on credits and that (when you fall)”
they are paid well. They are ARUNDHATI
very important, for they can BHATTACHARYA
make or break a story” Chairperson and CEO,
Salesforce India and
BOMAN IRANI South Asia; former
Actor, filmmaker chairperson, SBI

46 INDIA TODAY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5
 FRAMED IN LIGHT

SHINING MOMENTS
1. Rajesh Jejurikar,
Executive Director
& CEO, Auto & Farm Sector,
Mahindra and Mahindra, with
Boman Irani; 2. Auto Today
Editor Yogendra Pratap
with Neha Anand, VP &
Head – XUV Brand Portfolio 5
& International Marketing,
Mahindra Automotive; 3.
Irani with Mr & Mrs Narendra
Jadhav; 4. Ustad Bahauddin
Dagar playing the rudra veena;
5. Mohiniyattam dancer Methil
Devika performs; 6. Manjari
Upadhye, Chief Marketing
Officer, Mahindra
Automotive, with
Arundhati Bhattacharya,
Chairperson and CEO,
Salesforce India &
South Asia, former SBI
Chairperson
Tra vel Plus QUARTERLY

SUMMER SPECIAL

Rediscovering t he
Moun tains
WHY SIKKIM SHOULD
BE ON YOUR TRAVEL
ITINERARY THIS SUMMER

LUXURY IN
GANGTOK
BEST OF SIKKIM
HILL ADVENTURES Lake Tsomgo
on the way to
IN SOUTH INDIA Nathu La
Tra ve l Plus SHORTCUTS
QUARTERLY

Spring is in the Air

Srinagar’s almond trees are in bloom,
and nowhere more stunningly than at
Badamwari, a historical garden set in
the foothills of Hari Parbat Fort. The
almond blossoms, some of the first to
appear as spring comes to the valley,
are a sight to behold, and herald the
start of Kashmir’s flower season. Asia’s
largest tulip garden had its annual
reopening in Srinagar on March 26
with much fanfare. Cherry and pear
blossoms will follow, not to mention
the numerous wildflowers across the
meadows of Kashmir. The horticulture
department has also planted thou-
sands of lavender plants in the upper
reaches of Badamwari and plans to
turn it into a themed garden. Provence
in paradise?

Nam for the Gram TRAVEL MADE

Vietnam has seen a surge in tourists from India
in recent years. From 138,000 in 2022, the EASY FOR
number of Indian travellers to Vietnam grew to
392,000 in 2023, before reaching a whopping
SENIORS
501,000 in 2024. India is now the sixth-largest Online travel book-
international tourist market for Vietnam. This ing platform EaseMy-
growth is in part thanks to the launch of direct Trip has announced a
flights between the two countries. Low-cost strategic partnership
carrier Vietjet, which debuted in India in 2019, with Sukoon Unlimited,
further strengthened its presence in the country a premium senior care
with the launch of new direct flights connecting service provider, to offer
Hyderabad and Bengaluru to Ho Chi Minh City exclusive benefits tailored
on March 18 and 19, respectively. A.k.a. Saigon, for senior citizens. The
Ho Chi Minh City is the economic powerhouse collaboration aims to
of Vietnam and famed for its street food and make travel more accessible, comfortable and stress-free for
proximity to major tourist attractions. While elderly travellers booking flights through EaseMyTrip. Offerings
Hyderabad to Ho Chi Minh City flights are include personalised assistance to make booking flights effortless,
twice a week, Bengaluru to Ho Chi Minh City is exclusive discounts, priority seating, wheelchair assistance, and
a thrice-weekly service. on-ground support at airports for those in need. Beyond these
travel conveniences, Sukoon Unlimited will offer complimen-
tary wellness services such as pre- and post-travel consultations,
ensuring that senior travellers are well-prepared and receive the
necessary care. Senior citizens can look forward to a seamless
travel experience with these specially designed services.

50 INDIA TODAY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5
Tra ve l Plus SHORTCUTS
SHORTCUTS
QUARTERLY

NEW HOTEL OPENINGS

The hotel scene is hotting up with
these key launches

AMAN NAI LERT

BANGKOK
Luxury leisure
hotel chain Aman
Resorts continues
its foray into urban
sanctuaries with
Aman Nai Lert
Bangkok, which
opens on April 2.
Located in the leafy
embrace of the privately owned Nai Lert
Park, it has 52 suites, among the largest in
the city. There’s a 1,500 square metre Aman
Spa and an exclusive Aman Club. Symbolic
of the origin of the hotel, a central feature
is a majestic, 100-year-old Sompong tree.
The hotel will provide signature experiences
unveiling Bangkok’s best-kept cultural and
culinary secrets. Of course, in Aman style.
(www.aman.com)

ANANTARA
JEWEL BAGH

WHERE
JAIPUR
Anantara Hotels can be challenging—as opposed

THE WILD
& Resorts finally to say the African savannah.
makes its debut in These include images of the
India with the launch Star-Eyed Tree Frog, indig-
of Anantara Jewel
Bagh Jaipur. The experiential luxury brand of THINGS ARE enous to the Western Ghats, the
playful image of langurs and
Minor Hotels, Anantara brings its signature the classic red panda shot. Pithy
The Viewfinder, wildlife pho-
blend of authentic cultural experiences and descriptions of each species
tographer and nature enthusi-
world-class hospitality to the Pink City. Set
ast Sanket Reddy’s debut coffee featured are accompanied by
amidst verdant landscapes and palatial
table book—which flaunts a quirky quotes, which prevent
architecture, this 150-key retreat serves as
a tranquil gateway to Jaipur’s rich heritage. foreword by actor R. the book from getting too
(www.anantara.com) Madhavan—is filled academic. Like this
with jaw-dropping one from the pit viper
NOVOTEL NEW photographs. Sanket page: “Patience is a
DELHI CITY has shot wildlife all virtue that’s greatly
CENTRE over the world, and it spoken by all,/
Set in Jhandewalan— would be good to re- But rarely followed
and that’s as central member that this is a despite witnessing a
as it gets—the hotel distillation of a huge The Viewfinder million fall”. Sanket’s
offers access to and doubtless patient species approach to
key business hubs, By Sanket Reddy
body of work. His (Text and the project, with dif-
shopping centres and cultural landmarks. ferent ones on each
India photographs Photographs)
The 124 thoughtfully designed guest rooms
are particularly spread, only works if
include an elegantly appointed Presidential White Falcon
impressive, given Publishing the images are truly
Suite. The hotel’s eco-conscious design
aligns with Accor’s global sustainability wildlife photography transfixing, which
`3,999
goals. (www.accor.com) on Indian terrain they are in this case.

54 INDIA TODAY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5 Compiled by Amit Dixit

Tra ve l Plus
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THE REVELATION
Gangtok can be a sublime experience, especially if you’re staying at Taj Guras Kutir
By Juhi Saklani
54 INDIA TODAY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5
 MOUNTAIN INN
A room with a mountain
view at Taj Guras Kutir;
right, Soi & Sake, the COVER STORY
Asian cuisine restaurant
at the resort; below, a
grand Sikkimese thali
made with local produce

I
t is a rainy 4.30 pm and a monk, his maroon
robes creating their own private ritual with the
flickering lamps, conducts a prayer. He chants
in front of a large bay window, in a lounge full
of windows, all facing the mountain range ahead. By
his side, a young Taj employee creates immaculate
vibrations on a Tibetan meditation bowl. The monk
is praying to the goddess we call Mt Kanchenjunga,
though she can’t be seen on this cloudy evening.
I am completely in tune with the ceremony. I
feel reverential towards the Kanchenjunga not
only for her glorious silver self, and her status
as the third highest peak in the world, but also
in my capacity as a puny mortal who has been
denied a glimpse by the capricious goddess on
previous trips to Gangtok. Like the priest, I can’t
see her; like him, I am prayerful. Let it be this time.
When the ceremony is over, the lady from the resort
patiently teaches me how to play the meditation bowl
and when I finally succeed, I hug her. We giggle like a
pair of mynas.
A PR I L 7, 2 02 5 INDIA TODAY 55
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If all this sounds like an unexpected introduction to a

luxury resort, it really is not. Taj’s Kutir brand of resorts
are envisaged to blend in their context—geographic and
cultural—and Guras Kutir (named after Sikkim’s state tree:
the rhododendron) is an homage to the mountains and
forests, local culture and local foods of the area. An easy
40-minute drive from Gangtok town, the hotel is built on
16 acres of forest and has left a majority of it undisturbed.
The buildings lie low, the colours are subdued, the materials
mostly stone and wood. All the rooms face the Kanchenjunga;
anywhere you look, there is a carnival of green.
If the three things that matter most in a property are
“location, location, location”, Guras Kutir wins with ease.
The land has been leased from a prince of the royal family;
“Danny Denzongpa’s brother-in-law!” local staff tell me. If
at all you can see something other than forests, mountains
and skies, it is two properties in the far distance that belong
to—no surprises—Danny and Bhaichung Bhutia.
In the morning, the resort naturalist takes me on an
interpretive hike in the forest, with the invisible
presence of barking deer, wild boar, the Black Giant bellied leafbird for the first time.
Squirrel, Giant Flying Squirrel and the endearing red ECHOES OF For most visitors, the flight to Bagdogra plus a
KANCHENJUNGA
panda. For an enchanting couple of hours, we roam five-hour drive to the resort can be worth it if they
Top, an exterior
amid Himalayan ferns, bamboo, chestnuts, Japanese stay for three-four nights. (Better than the jacuzzi,
view of the Taj
sal, berries and trees with local names that I try out Guras Kutir; Forest Essentials bath supplies, or butler service
on my hesitant tongue: Lekchilauney (needlewood). above, J Wellness on picnics, the priceless luxury provided by the
We spot leopard droppings, chew on bitter but Circle, the Taj is a stop, midway from Bagdogra, where you
intensely fragrant mugwort leaves and watch the resort’s spa can have complimentary refreshments next to the
languid flight of steppe eagles. The silence shimmers Teesta and there is—that gold standard of luxury
and the air is fresh, moist and cold. I see a golden- for a female traveller—a shining bathroom!)

58 INDIA TODAY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5
 COVER STORY

THE
INFORMATION
HOW TO REACH: Bagdogra
airport (120 km from Gangtok;
4.30 hrs) is connected to Delhi,
Mumbai, Chennai, Hyderabad,
Bengaluru, Jaipur, Ahmedabad,
Kolkata and other cities. Taj Guras
Kutir is 11 km (40 min) ahead of
Gangtok. Airport transfer by Taj
Rs 9,500 one way. Sikkim Tourism
chopper service in good weather
Rs 4,500 per head
TARIFF: Deluxe rooms Rs 20,000
onwards; Suites Rs 35,000
onwards
RESTAURANTS: All-day multi-
cuisine restaurant; speciality
Asian food restaurant; bar
EXPERIENCES: Local village
Plenty of excursions are on offer, the highlight being a two-hour drive trek; forest walk; camping
to Nathu La (14,140 ft), climbing up to the Indo-China border as the experience for children (1 hr);
lush prettiness of the hill town gives way to the haunting beauty of the trips to Tsomgo Lake, Nathu
Himalayas. Expansive valleys, frequent waterfalls, rich mist, and then La, the zoo, Rumtek Monastery
the journey above the tree line. Now, frozen mountain streams shine, red and local view points; picnic at
and brown shrubs sprout and, finally, it all gives way to an empire of snow. Fambong Lho sanctuary; picnic
Nathu La was part of an offshoot of the historic Silk Route between India by waterfall; Honeymooner’s
and China, with tea and horses being the main trade through the mountain Special and more
pass. When we reach here, we are travelling in the footsteps of traders, PS: Battery-operated buggies
pilgrims, soldiers and nomads. The thrill of being at the border of two within the resort. Play area for
countries is undeniable (but you cannot take photos anymore). children. No swimming pool but

H
jacuzzi in spa area
owever high-end our travel plan, we all prove our essential Indianness
by slurping Maggi on mountain visits and here the opportunity is
provided by dhabas at the glorious Tsomgo Lake on the way back. The
yaks are as beautiful, majestic and aloof as the Kanchenjunga.
The Nathu La day is an excellent day to book a spa treatment and surren-
der to the healing hands of the masseurs—in my case the excellent Dolma.
At some point, the rain medley in the background, the just-so pressure
of her hands, the fragrance of the oil, all merge into one undifferentiated
sensorium. I am now primed for the Sikkimese thali—crisp karela, local
greens, a creamy hill daal to die for, with millet rotis and a sublime chilli
that has clearly been left to marinate in mustard oil since Danny was young.
Mindful of the lush red rhododendrons flowering on the grounds, and
the lovely Guras tea that had welcomed me, and the Guras wine lying in my
room, I enter a spirit of all or nothing and try the rhododendron cheesecake.
It is great, as is all the food I try at Machan, the all-day restaurant. Full
of natural light, with outdoor terrace seating that makes the heart sing
(because it, well, faces the Kanchenjunga), and an enjoyable variety of
dishes, Machan is a delightful locus of the resort’s socio-gastronomic life.

A PR I L 7, 2 02 5 INDIA TODAY 59
Tra ve l Plus COVER STORY
QUARTERLY

On another day, Gangtok’s pedestrian-friendly MG Road, which

the locals describe as “our Mall Road”, makes for a pleasant amble.
Local Nepali restaurants coexist with contemporary cafés, and
impeccably dressed young women, monks on an errand, and young
men with gelled hair are everywhere. But it is towards the higher
reaches that Gangtok breathes easier. Taste the morning air at the
Enchey Monastery resounding with the chants of the monks, or the
open-air zoo, spread out over a forested hillside, conveying hardly
any sense of the animals being in enclosures. The famous snow
leopard is no more, but it is delightful to see the lovable red panda.
The hotel organises a trip to Rumtek monastery (24 km away),
Sikkim’s largest monastery. Rumtek’s stature arises from being the
seat-in-exile of the 16th Karmapa who built it in 1966. A repository
of religious and cultural heritage, the beautiful white Gompa on
a hilltop is a serene place to be in, even as young monks go about
their studies or prayers, chatting like in any boys’ hostel. The holy
relics of the 16th Karmapa are kept in a golden stupa. The Buddha
presides over offerings of fruit, food and unexpected packets of
Haldiram chips, Bikaner bhujia and Real fruit juice.
The final day, as on every morning, I wake up to an alarm
strategically set to catch the morning light falling on the
Kanchenjunga—if she so pleases. She does. I run out of the room,
unmindful of the cold, and meet the mountains, their snow
shining with serene ferocity across the forested valleys. In Satyajit
Ray’s Kanchenjunga, the peak remains hidden as the plot unfolds
and reveals itself finally when the protagonists have made the
right choices and feel content. I, too, have communed with leopard
EMBEDDED INTO THE HILLS poo and the sound of running brooks, and read a juicy murder
Top, The Taj Guras Kutir seen from a distance; mystery while chewing flaky croissants. Kanchenjunga had no
above, its atmospherically lit courtyard at dusk choice but to reveal herself. n

60 INDIA TODAY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5
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The Tsomgo
Lake on the way
to Nathu La

BEYOND GANGTOK

BEST OF
SIKKIM
Gangtok is great. But to get a sense of the
‘real’ Sikkim, take a road trip across this
tiny state that is big on experience
By Priya Pathiyan

O
nce a royal kingdom, Sikkim has been
one of India’s northeastern states for 50
years. Even so, not too many travellers
have unlocked its great potential. Rich in
natural beauty and indigenous culture,
Rumtek
it’s one of the few unspoilt destinations The largest monastery in the state, its golden stupa
where you can count on engaging with the local and the is said to contain the relics of the highly revered 16th
authentic. Mountains, glaciers, glacier-fed rivers and lakes, Karmapa Lama. The Karma Shri Nalanda Institute
hot springs... it has a wealth of wonders for those who love for Higher Buddhist Studies is located within the same
nature. The Khangchendzonga (or Kanchenjunga) is the complex, which is around 24 km from Gangtok. Even
country’s tallest mountain peak at 8,586 metres, though as a casual visitor, you sense a certain deep spirituality
off-limits to climbers from its Indian side. As a biodiver- and contentedness in the aura of this Dharmachakra
sity hotspot, Sikkim boasts over 4,500 types of flowering Centre, accentuated by the timelessness of the sur-
plants, including 550 orchid species and 36 rhododendrons, rounding mountains and streams.
16 types of conifers, 11 different oaks, 28 kinds of bamboo,
362 varieties of ferns, over 424 medicinal plants, almost
The Rumtek
150 different mammals, 550 kinds of birds, 48 types of fish, monastery
and over 600 butterfly species! And with over 60 Tibetan
monasteries that thrive across the state, it’s an important
centre for Mahayana Buddhism within India too.
While its capital Gangtok is charming and most devel-
oped (in terms of monasteries, flower parks, restaurants,
shopping centres and movie theatres), it gives off standard
commercial hill-station vibes. The further you explore
beyond the capital city, the deeper you’ll delve into its true
soul. Here are some of our recommendations for your next
Sikkim adventure…

62 INDIA TODAY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5
 Nathu La
It’s a pass that was on the ancient
Tea Horse Road that originated in
Southwest China and crossed Tibet.
Only about 54 km from Gangtok, it’s
a very different world, one of permits
and military checkposts, double rain-
bows, snowy vistas and furry yaks.
An adults-only attraction, it warrants
the use of a four-wheel drive vehicle
to reach the height of 4,340 metres
where the Himalayan view is quite
dramatic and the singing of the wind
in the silence seems apt for the pass
named ‘listening ears’. While weather
and other conditions may not always
be conducive to get right up there,
stop at the serene Tsomgo Lake, the
new Baba Harbhajan Singh Temple,
the original temple and the bunker
and memorial to the brave martyr
in whose name the temple there was
built, and take a few photographs.
All these places swirl with courage,
patriotism and a spirit of purpose.
Tra ve l Plus COVER STORY
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The Shingba
Rhododendron
Sanctuary
near Lachung

Lachung
Quite close to the Tibetan (India-China)
border, about 125 km away from Gangtok and Guru Padmasam-
bhava’s statue on
2,900 metres above sea level, this quaint hill Samdruptse Hill
town sits at the confluence of the Lachung
and Lachen rivers, which finally feed into the
Teesta. With Lachung as your base, you can
explore the glorious Yumthang Valley (just 25
kms away), filled with grazing wild yak and
outlined with gleaming glaciers, or visit the
Shingba Rhododendron Sanctuary, awash
with more than 40 varieties of colourful blos-
soms between April and July. If you’re lucky,
you might even spot the extremely rare snow
leopard or the most adorable-looking Hima-
layan red panda. A small detour will bring
you to hot springs or even Zero Point, which is
the last civilian outpost at 15,300 feet before
the border. Slightly even more off-the-beaten
track is the special territory of Dzongu, home
to the Lepchas. A walk through the reserve Namchi
will give you insights into the lifestyle and
About 73 km from Gangtok, it is becoming a popular spot,
culture of these indigenous people. Meeting
thanks to a huge statue of Guru Padmasambhava on Sam-
them is akin to feeling the pulse of the real
druptse Hill. In the south at Solophok, you’ll also get to see
residents of Sikkim.
replicas of the Char Dham, some of the most significant reli-
gious places for Hindus. The well-kept spaces and beautifully
painted exteriors exude joy and peace.
64 INDIA TODAY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5
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The Khangchendzonga
viewpoint in Pelling;
(bottom) the ruins of the
former Kingdom of
Yuksom
Sikkim in Rabdentse It’s often called the gateway to the majes-
tic Mount Khangchendzonga. Since 2016,
the Khangchendzonga National Park was
declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Trekking to the park, visiting the ancient
monasteries and the mystical Kartok Lake
will transport you to a different world.

Pelling
Popular with trekkers since it’s where many great climbing trails
start, this town in western Sikkim has a fascinating history as well.
You can see the ruins of Rabdentse, the second capital of the former
Kingdom of Sikkim in the times of the Chogyal dynasty. Dating back
to as far back as 1670 AD, the kingdom was destroyed by Gurkha
invaders. Walking around the complex to take in what remains of
three stone chortens, the king’s throne, and royal palace, you hear the
wind whisper song khim (new palace) as this new capital was dubbed,
eventually inspiring the name Sikkim. Not far away is the early 18th
century Pemayangtse Monastery with some of the most precious
art on its walls, including the most magnificent mural called ‘Heav-
enly Palace’ on the top level. While Sikkim is rich in waterfalls, the
Khangchendzonga and Changey falls near Pelling are quite splendid.
The holy Khecheopalri Lake is both spiritual as well as scenic, making
it a popular stop for worshippers and tourists alike.

Prayer flags on
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the banks of the

Kartok Lake

You may well be a believer or opine that

religion is the opiate of the masses. But either
way, the soulfulness you experience while
travelling through Sikkim is different. It’s an
awe that is inspired by the state’s natural abun-
dance, its alluring sights, and the warmth. n
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68 INDIA TODAY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5
THE HILLS
ARE ALIVE
From the highest trek in Karnataka to
an offbeat wildlife experience in Kerala,
here’s how to make the most of your
next hill station vacation in South India
By Prachi Joshi

R
emember the hill station holidays of your childhood? Languid
walks, promenading on Mall Road, stuffing your face with
fudgy ‘chocolate, perhaps a boat ride on the lake. As nostalgic
as that sounds, the new-age traveller holidays differently—whether it’s
chasing experiences, embarking on thrilling treks or visiting historical
sites. If you’re planning a summer vacation in the picturesque hill sta-
tions of southern India, here’s a curated list of unmissable experiences.

Nilgiri Mountain Railway

For the most scenic train journey
Built by the British in 1908, the Nilgiri Mountain Railway off­
ers a ride like no other. The scenic 46­km railway links the
plains at Mettupalayam with the hill stations of Coonoor
and Udagamandalam (Ooty). It is the only one of its kind in
Asia, operating on metre­gauge ‘rack and pinion’ traction
as it negotiates a steep gradient. It is also one of only two
rail routes in India that still uses steam­powered engines.
On its way, the charming blue train (colloquially called ‘toy
train’) chugs through steep mountains and dense forests,
passing through 16 tunnels and over 250 bridges. In July
2005, UNESCO declared the Nilgiri Mountain Railway a
World Heritage Site under the ‘Mountain Railways of India’.

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Kolukkumalai Tea Estate Chikmagalur Parambikulam

For the best hot cuppa For the ultimate coffee Tiger Reserve
Perched at an altitude of 7,900 feet immersion For the best off beat
(2,408 metres), Kolukkumalai is the
Known as the birthplace of coffee in In- wildlife experience
highest tea plantation in the world.
dia, Chikmagalur is heaven for caffeine Escape the usual tourist circuit in
Geographically in Tamil Nadu but lo-
lovers. In the 17th century, Baba Budan Kerala to uncover this hidden gem.
cated close to Munnar (Kerala), this es-
supposedly smuggled coffee seeds from A protected biodiversity hotspot, the
tate is known for its panoramic views of
Yemen and planted them on the hills Parambikulam sanctuary is located
the Western Ghats. The tea plants grow
around Chikmagalur. Today, this region in Palakkad district. What makes
slower due to the high altitude, resulting
has large coffee estates that grow some Parambikulam unique is its eco-
in better quality tea. The journey to
of the best Arabica and Robusta beans. tourism initiatives, including guided
Kolukkumalai itself is an adventure,
Take a deep dive into the world of coffee safaris, bamboo rafting and tribal
involving a bumpy ride through rugged
with a plantation tour and understand village stays. Many indigenous tribes
terrain. Once there, embark on a tour
the process of coffee cultivation from still live within the reserve, and the
of the tea factory that dates back to the
bean to cup. Many estates also offer Tribal Heritage Centre is a good place
1920s. It still uses the orthodox method
homestays where you wake up to the to learn more about their unique way
to process tea, which includes hand-
aroma of freshly brewed coffee. If you of life and cultural heritage. You can
plucking the tea leaves (apparently
seek adventure, nearby peaks like Baba also trek to the world’s oldest teak
maintains the integrity of the leaves).
Budangiri and Mullayanagiri offer tree, Kannimara, believed to be over
Sit back, sip a freshly brewed cup while
excellent trekking opportunities. 450 years old.
gazing at the mist-covered peaks....

Kodaikanal
For its colonial era charm
Fondly called the ‘Princess of Hills’, Kodaikanal is
steeped in colonial history. Established by British
missionaries in the 19th century, the town is dotted
with old churches, colonial style cottages and scenic
viewpoints. Its centrepiece is the star-shaped Kodai
Lake, where you can enjoy boat rides or go cycling
around its perimeter. Other attractions include
Coaker’s Walk, an old British-built pathway offer-
ing stunning valley views, and Bryant Park, a lovely
botanical garden with rare flora. Some of the view-
points worth driving to include Upper Lake View
for a bird’s-eye view of Kodai Lake, Guna Cave made
famous by the 1991 Kamal Haasan-starrer Guna
(the cave itself is closed but the views are spectacular)
and Pillar Rocks that looks out over three vertical
70 INDIA TODAY A PR I L 7, 2 02 5
boulders dramatically rising more than 400 feet.
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Mullayanagiri Trek
Edakkal Caves For scaling Karnataka’s
For a mystical highest peak
cave experience If you are a trekking enthusi-
Hidden amidst the Ambukuthi ast, Mullayanagiri is a must-
Hills in Wayanad, the Edakkal visit. Standing tall at 6,330 feet
Caves are a historical marvel. The (1,930 metres), the peak offers
two naturally formed caves are breathtaking views of the Baba
famous for their ancient petro- Budangiri range. It derives its
glyphs (rock-carved art), some of name from the tomb of saint
which date back over 7,000 years. Mullappa Swamy, which is
To reach the caves, you need to trek located at the peak. The trek can
up and climb steep steps. Once be done in about three hours
inside, you will find intricate carv- and is of easy-to-moderate diff-
ings on the cave walls depicting iculty. It starts from Sarpadhari
animals, humans and other figures with a steep climb through lush
that tell fascinating stories of pre- grasslands and rocky trails.
historic civilisations. The surreal About two-third of the way up,
ambience, the other-worldly rock you will arrive at a Nandi (bull)
formations and the mystery sur- idol beneath a tree. At the sum-
rounding these engravings make a mit, apart from the saint’s tomb,
visit to Edakkal Caves an unfor- a small Shiva temple adds a
gettable experience. spiritual touch to your journey.

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Charmed
by Chennai
Actor-musician Shruti Haasan
spills the beans about what
makes Chennai her favourite city
You’ve extensively travelled the world for both
personal and professional reasons. Which is a city that
you would keep going back to?
Chennai will always hold a soft spot in my heart. I was born
there and studied until grade 11. I continue to come back for
work commitments and my father lives here. It is home.

What is it about Chennai that you cherish the most?

I believe it is the city's balancing act between tradition and
modernity. Whenever I think of Chennai, the ocean comes
to mind. Whether it's Marina Beach or Elliot’s Beach or even
the East Coast Road…a lot of my childhood was spent around
the sea. Near the Besant Nagar Beach, there was a skating
rink where I would rollerblade with my friends. It was also
very close to the Velankanni church, so it was an interesting
mix of people and culture.

What are your top places to get a taste of

Chennai?
Manjal is one of my all-time favourites for its
selection of non-vegetarian food. I particularly
love their crab lollipop and coin parotta and
paya curry. At Junior Kuppanna, the mutton
sukka is to die for, and Annalakshmi serves
pure vegetarian food. Do try their thali.

What kind of a traveller are you?

I am an overpacker! Also, because I am an
anxious person, I keep thinking what if I
run out of clothes? For a five-day trip,
I will carry 15 changes. But I am
working towards packing light.

Some travel essentials that

you swear by?
I always carry the correct
adapters and plug points,
especially when travelling
internationally. I also stay up
to date with the weather before
I go, and pack accordingly. And I
carry appropriate footwear.

—With Geetika Sachdev

GETTY IMAGES

76 Volume 50-Number 14; For the week April 1-7, 2025, published on every Friday Total number of pages 78 (including cover pages)