How To Compost

Composting Guide and F.A.Q.

What Is Composting?
How Does Compost Improve Soil Condition?
How Does The Composition Process Work?
What Are The Essential Ingredients For Quality Compost?
The Composting Recipe
How is A Compost Pile Layered?
Types Of Composting Units
Composting F.A.Q.
How Large Should The Material Be?
What Materials Can I Use?
What Materials Cannot Be Used?
How important is Moisture and Aeration?
How important is The Size of the Pile?
How Important Is Time and Temperature?
What Is The Composting Ratio?
What Are Green/Nitrogen Rich Sources?
What Are Brown/Carbon Rich Sources?
What are Compost Activators?
Do I Need To Cover My Compost Pile?
Are All Leaves Suitable?
Is It Safe To Use Weeds?
What Is Passive Composting?
What Is The Active Phase Of Composting?
What Is The Curing Phase Of Composting?
What Are The 4 Stages Of Composting?
When Will My Compost Be Ready To Use?
What Is The Effect Of Hot Dry Seasons or Cold Wet Winters?
Where Should the Pile be Located?
Do I Need To Turn The Compost?
Can I Speed Up The Composting Process?
My Compost Stinks! What Can I Do?
My Compost Pile Won’t Heat Up
My Compost Pile Is Attracting Flies and Animals
I Don’t Have Enough Nitrogen Rich Materials
 How Long Before I Can Use My Compost?
Where Should I Site My Compost Pile?
Are There Health Issues?
What Are My Options with Compost Units?
Are There Alternatives To Traditional Composting?
What is Bokashi Composting?
What Do I Need To Start?
What Wastes Can I Use?
What Wastes Cannot Be Used?
How Do I Use The Bokashi Bin/Bucket?
Helpful Hints for Bokashi
Bokashi F.A.Q.
Vermicomposting
What is Vermicomposting?
What Are The Advantages Of Vermicomposting?
What Types Of Worms Are Used?
What Equipment Do I Need?
How Do I Set Up My Compost Bin?
Common Problems And Solutions
How Do I Harvest Worm Castings?
Other Books By This Author- Ed Gaynor
What Is Composting?
Composting is a controlled method of breaking down organic waste materials. When
this transformation is complete the resultant product is compost. Compost has many
uses:
1. It helps repair and improve poor quality soil.
2. It can be used as a replacement for peat and topsoil.
3. It can be used as a natural fertilizer in greenhouses.
4. It is also used on large scale projects such as farms, land reclamation,
landscaping and large scale food productions.
5. It is also used as a very important tool in reclaiming contaminated soil.
How Does Compost Improve Soil Condition?
Compost improves the condition of soil through altering its biological, physical and
chemical properties. Some of the most obvious ways in which compost improves soil
conditioning are as follows.
1. It improves soil structure in clay type soil. This improved soil structure
results in the clay type soil becoming firmer, more distinct and less prone to
clotting. This in turn leads to better drainage, more nutrients, more aeration
and ultimately, better growing conditions.
2. It improves the water retention ability of sandy soil by providing a
medium in which water can be retained. This results in less rapid loss of
water and a more consistent source of liquid for plants. It means that sandy
soils are still suitable for plants that do not like to have their roots in water for
prolonged periods but that they also have access to water thus avoiding
drought.
3. Compost improves the fertility levels of soil which in turn means that the
need to use chemical fertilizers is greatly reduced or in some cases, totally
removed.
4. Composting your soil increases microbial activity within the soil which
leads to an increased resistance to foliar and soil borne diseases.
5. The increased microbial activity caused by the addition of compost also
results in increased efficiency in breaking down pesticides and similar
compounds.
6. The addition of compost also reduces the bioavailability of dangerous
heavy metals. This is a significant issue when contaminated soils are being
reclaimed as healthy soils.
How Does The Composition Process Work?
Under normal conditions organic matter would be broken into small pieces by an army
of earthworms, mites, ants, beetles etc. The resulting organic material would then be
further broken down by the presence of fungi, bacterial and protozoa. These
microorganisms require certain temperatures to perform optimally.
When we create a compost pile we are attempting to provide the ideal conditions for
the breakdown of organic matter. We do this by providing the following basic
components.
1. Organic matter.
2. Minerals.
3. Water.
4. Microorganisms.
5. Oxygen
When all these ‘raw materials’ come together under certain conditions we get
compost. To make the process even more efficient and faster we follow certain rules.
When there rules are applied consistently, the result is a higher quality compost
produced faster than if left to run its natural course of events.
What Are The Essential Ingredients For Quality Compost?
The essential ingredients for quality compost are as listed previously i.e.

1. Organic matter.
2. Minerals.
3. Water.
4. Microorganisms.
5. Oxygen.
However, providing these ingredients alone will not provide you with quality compost.
There is a specific recipe that needs to be followed and like all good recipes the result
is entirely dependent on using the correct quantities of the correct ingredients in the
correct way. Al l of the ingredients provided above will determine 3 important factors.
1. The feedstock’s, this is the chemical makeup of the raw organic
ingredients.
2. The actual physical and shape and size of the feedstocks.
3. The population of the microorganisms that are vital to the process.
The Composting Recipe
Bacteria, fungi, microbes, worms and other invertebrates are the workers of the
compost pile. It is their work that produces the nutrient rich compost that plants love.
These are the decomposers. Their job is to break down all the materials that we put
in the compost pile.
As with any workers they need to be well fed. Each one has a preferred diet and when
they all have what they need the compost pile is working at its most efficient. The trick
to making great compost is to provide the ideal conditions for all those decomposer
workers to thrive.
Most materials we use in the pile are not ideal for these decomposers. They need a
good balance of Carbon (C) and Nitrogen (N) to be really efficient. Carbon gives them
the energy they need and Nitrogen gives them the protein they need.
Ideally, they prefer a ratio of Carbon to Nitrogen at a rate of 30C : 1N
To give them this ratio and thereby have a healthy compost pile we need to pay
attention to the materials we are using in the pile. The best way to do this is to think
Greens and Browns.
Greens = Nitrogen = Food Scraps, Grass Clippings, Vegetables, Fruit and general
garden clear out.
Browns = Carbon = Brown Leaves, Straw, Woodchip, Saw Dust, Newspapers
Maintaining a balance between Greens and Browns also helps with the structural
stability of the pile since many of the Green ingredients will be moist or wet and much
of the Brown ingredients will be dry. The Green ingredients do provide necessary
moisture content and the Green help to prevent the pile from becoming too
compacted. Again it is a balance but this time between moisture retention and air-flow.
Achieving all of the above leaves us with a balance between moisture, air, the carbon
and nitrogen provided by the raw materials and the agents of decomposition i.e.
bacteria, insects, fungi, worms, will finish the process.
How is A Compost Pile Layered?
A properly structured and well managed compost pile can be ready for use within 4
months in warm temperatures. The structure of the pile is very important, you
already know the correct ingredients to use, it is now time to layer them correctly.
The basic structure of a compost pile from bottom to top is a series of layers that
begin on a hard surface. You can start your pile on top of pallets etc. but starting it on
a hard surface such as concrete or compacted soil means easier turning. However
using concrete makes it more difficult for beneficial organism and worms to reach the
soil.
My personal preference is to use a suitably sized area and clear it of all grass etc. I
then lightly aerate the soil with my fork. This is the best of both worlds. It provides a
solid surface which allows you to turn the compost but it allows for quick
establishment of contact between worms etc. and the compost pile. Once you have
your base ready it is then time to start building your pile.
Step 1. Place a base layer of materials that will provide carbon. Shredded
newspapers, dead leaves, wood chips, small twigs and branches. Make them no
bigger than 2 to 3 inches in size. Smaller sized materials and greater surface area
exposure will speed up the decomposition process. If you have enough materials you
should aim to make this first layer 4 to 6 inches deep. When this layer is in place you
should lightly moisten it.
Step 2. Start your second layer. This layer consists of nitrogen rich materials such as
grass clippings, fruit and vegetable waste, egg shell, coffee grounds, leftover bread
and rice and leafy garden trimmings. If you have access to seaweed, you should use
it. Seaweed is an excellent addition to a compost pile. This layer of nitrogen
materials should be 2 to 3 inches deep.

Step 3. You will notice that the first layer of carbon rich materials was 4 to 6 inches
deep and that the second layer of nitrogen rich materials was 2 to 3 inches deep.
This is your ratio guide of approximately 2 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen. Try to
maintain that approximate ratio by using the thickness of the layers as a guide i.e. 4 to
6 inches for carbon 2 to 3 inches for nitrogen. Now repeat the process as described
in steps 1 and 2.
Step 4. After repeated these layers your compost pile should now be reaching 4 to 5
feet in height. If you are using a bin it is time to close it, if you are using an open
compost pile you should now cover it with plastic.
Step 5. Start a new compost pile using steps 1 to 4.

Step 6. You will need to monitor the moisture content of the pile. Use this sponge
test, soak a sponge in water and then squeeze the water out, the moisture content of
a wrung-out sponge is approximately the moisture content you are looking for with
your compost. You need it moist, not soaking wet. Squeeze a few handfuls of the
compost, ideally it should yield a few drops of liquid.
If the compost is too wet, grab your fork and turn the compost over. This will allow air
in around the compost as well as improve drainage.
If the compost is very dry, you simply need to water it, turn it and water it again. Use
the test described earlier to ensure that you do not over water.
Step 7. Temperature plays a large role in the decomposition process. You will need to
occasionally check the internal temperature of your compost pile. You can use your
hands or purchase a compost thermometer.
If using your hands, the compost should be hot to touch.
If using a thermometer it should be within the range of 120 to 160 .
Check every 2 to 3 weeks. When the temperature starts to decrease it is time to turn
the compost.
Step 8 . To turn the compost you simply need to move the materials from the outside
and the top of the compost into the middle and move the middle materials to the
outside and top.
This is an easy process if you have a second composting area nearby and ready to
go. If not, all you need to do is to grab your fork and dig towards the center of the
pile. As you dig, place what you have just removed in a small pile to the side. When
you have a significant hole dug into the pile you just need to start filling the hole with
material from the outside of the pile.
When the center is now filled up again, spread the compost you previously set aside
along the top and outer parts of the pile. Inside out, outside in !
Step 9 . Wait a few weeks and check the inner temperature again. You are looking
for ‘hot to touch’ or 120 to 160 . When your pile reaches this temperature it will need
to be turned one final time.
Step 10. At this stage you have turned your pile twice and it is unlikely to heat to
those temperatures again. It should start to cool down, so now it is a waiting game.
Wait for it to cool down and then give it another 3 to 4 weeks. Timings may vary but
that is the general time span involved.
Step 11. Your compost should now be ready to use. It will be a lot smaller than it
was originally and will be crumbly in texture. There should not be any significant
odor.
Types Of Composting Units
You have the option of either buying or building your own composting unit.
1. Single Bin Outdoor System
This is a very popular set-up but its greatest disadvantage is the slow rate of
decomposition. This is because it is a simple ‘add as you go’ method of
placing composting material as it become available but the compost is never
turned. This means that the compost at the bottom of the pile is removed
first. When this is removed the pile moves downwards and the next layer
removed does not occur until more decomposition has occurred.
These are readily available to buy but can easily be constructed at home. A
simple four sided box unit with ventilation between the side timbers will
suffice for an open air unit or you could use a trash can with perforation in the
base and sided to create a sealed unit with access via the trash can lid.
Another example of a homemade unit is the use of mesh or chicken wire
stapled to four posts or in a circular shape. Old barrels, containers etc. can
easily be converted for use.
2. Multi Bin Outdoor System
This system uses three of the single type bins as described before. The
significant advantage of this system is the speed at which the compost is
produced. Speed of decomposition is achieved because when the first box
is full it is then turned into the empty second box beside it. The empty first
box is then re- filled. You now have two box units of decomposing material.
When box number two is ready to be turned, you turn it into box number
three. Box number one can be turned into box number two and you can start
your third pile in box number one.
You can add more units to this set up if you wish. You can also use an
additional box as a holding unit for ‘brown materials’ until you have green
materials from your kitchen or garden.
These are easily constructed using old pallets, timber or concrete blocks.
You could also use fencing stakes/posts, timber sheeting, timber cladding
etc.
3. Simple Pile
This is exactly as it sounds. You create a pile in a discreet part of your
garden and start applying layers using the process outlined in this book.
These can be left ‘un-turned’ but the process is a lot more efficient if the pile
is turned. Just follow the process outlined.
Composting F.A.Q.
How Large Should The Material Be?
The smaller the waste is when it goes into the compost heap the quicker it will be
decomposed. Think of how quickly a large block of ice will melt if it is broken into
smaller pieces. General food waste, grass clippings, leaves etc. are fine as long as
they are small. Larger pieces of waste such as branches will need to be made
smaller. You can do this using an axe, shredder or whatever tools you have.
What Materials Can I Use?
Leaves,
Straw,
Hay,
Grass clippings
Food Scraps (no dairy, meat or oils)
Vegetables
Fruit
Grains,
Coffee Grounds
Shredded Paper
Shredded Newspaper (very small amounts, slows the decomposition rate as low in
nitrogen)
Small Branches
Small Twigs,
Dried Plants,
Mature Horse Manure,
Mature Cattle Manure,
Small Amounts Of Timber Ashes (Timber ash has high nitrogen content)
Sawdust (moderate amounts) Large amounts create a nitrogen loss in the soil,
Poultry Litter,
Seaweed,
Rabbit manure,
Goat manure
Chipped Bark.
What Materials Cannot Be Used?
Meat,
Fish,
Dairy Products,
Oils,
Fatty Foods,
Pesticide Treated Garden Plants,
Pig Manure
Cat Droppings,
Cat Litter,
Dog Droppings,
Cool Ashes,
Charcoal Ashes,
Large Amounts of Timber Ashes,
Large Amounts of Sawdust (large amounts will cause a loss of nitrogen in the pile)
Very Large Amounts of Newspapers, (low in nitrogen so large amounts would slow the
decomposition rate)
Bones,
Plastic,
Glass.
How important is Moisture and Aeration?
The microorganisms that do the work of breaking down the materials need a certain
amount of air and moisture to survive. Intense heat or heavy rain can create
extremes of conditions which will have an adverse effect of the efficiency of your
compost pile. A general guide to gauge dampness is to use the wet sponge squeeze
test. Thoroughly soak a sponge in water now squeeze the excess water out of the
sponge. The dampness of the sponge after squeezing is roughly how damp your
compost should be.
Not only will poor air circulation affect the efficiency of your compost pile it will also
create a bad odor. Adding some coarser/larger materials will improve aeration by
preventing the materials from becoming too compressed.
How important is The Size of the Pile?
The most efficient compost piles achieve a balance between reaching a fast working
temperature and allowing air reach the center of the pile. It is generally considered
that 3 feet cubed i.e. 3 feet wide, 3 feet tall and 3 feet long is the most efficient size for
a compost heap, in climates without large extremes in weather.
If you are not unduly worried about time, your compost pile could be smaller or larger
than previously suggested size. The suggested size is the optimum size for home
composting.
How Important Is Time and Temperature?
Time and temperature will depend on all the factors mentioned previously. If the
materials are the correct size, if the materials are balanced, if moisture and aeration
are correct and the size of the pile is as suggested, you will quickly have compost
because of all its factors being correct.
What Is The Composting Ratio?
A Ratio of Carbon to Nitrogen (C:N) is contained within the tissues of everything
organic. For composting the ideal ratio is 30C:1N.
This is the chemical ratio, however there is a far easier method to achieve this.
Simply use 2 parts of brown material (carbon rich sources) to every 1 part green
material (nitrogen rich sources).
Using this ratio in the compost pile means creating your brown carbon layer 4 to 6
inches deep and creating your green nitrogen layer 2 to 3 inches deep.
What Are Green/Nitrogen Rich Sources?
Vegetables,
Fruit,
Grass Clippings,
General Garden Waste,
Seaweed,
Soil,
Mature Manure,
Coffee Grounds,
Food Scraps,
Dried Plants.
What Are Brown/Carbon Rich Sources?
Leaves,
Straw,
Hay,
Sawdust,
Chipped Bark,
Chipped Branches, Twigs,
Shredded Newspapers.
What are Compost Activators?
Most of the time your compost will heat up to the required temperature if the correct
ratios are maintained. Occasionally you might have too much high-carbon products in
the pile e.g. dried leaves, straw etc. items on your Brown list. Sometimes the weather
is just too cold.
On these occasions you can give the decomposition process a boost-start with the
addition of an activator. Activators are products that are high in nitrogen. These are
available in many forms such as bone meal, blood meal, alfalfa meal. Fresh or dry
manure from a rabbit, chicken, cow or goat will do the same job.
Some of these work like yeast and need to be mixed in water and added to your
compost pile. Others are available in powdered form and just need to be sprinkled on
the pile.
Do I Need To Cover My Compost Pile?
You will need to cover your pile. A cover retains moisture and heat. It also helps to
keep animals out.

Are All Leaves Suitable?

Not all leaves are suitable. Different leaves have different effects. See the list below.
Resin And Acid Leaves
Be very careful with quantities if using the leaves of the following trees. If possible it
would be better not to use them. If you must use them, use them very sparingly.
These leaves can be toxic to soil life and other plants.
Acacia, Bay, Eucalyptus, Juniper, Laurel and Walnut.
Leaves That Cause PH Imbalance
The expression used to express the acidity or alkalinity of a solution in its PH. PH is
a scale with 7 being neutral; values below 7 are more acid and values higher than 7
are more alkaline.

The microorganisms involved in the decomposition process prefer a neutral to acidic

environment. On a PH measure you would be looking for a range of 5.5 to 8. In the
very early stages of decomposition organic acids are created which help with the
growth of fungi and the breakdown of plant materials. As the decomposition process
continues the acids become less prominent. Properly matured compost will have a
value in the scale of 5.5 to 8.
You can buy a PH tester for home use. You will need to take many samples to get a
clearer picture.
Poplar and Ash can make your compost less acidic by rising the PH i.e. makes it more
alkaline. Rhubarb leaves can lower PH making your compost more acidic.

Only use these leaves very sparingly.

Poisonous Leaves
The following leaves should only be used very sparingly as they can harm soil life.
Castor Bean, Hemlock and Oleander.
Fibrous Leaves
These leaves take a long time to break down and can really slow down the
decomposition process. You will need to chop these very small before placing them in
your pile.
Laurel, Magnolia, Rhododendron.

Infested And Diseased Leaves

Fungus, mildew and rust infected leaves should not be used. Pest infected leaves
should not be used.
Chemically Treated Leaves

Leaves that have been treated with chemicals will often retain those chemicals for
several months before the chemicals degrade. If not in large quantities it is probably
fine. However those people maintaining an organic garden will need to ensure that
chemically treated products don’t end up in the compost pile.
Is It Safe To Use Pine Needles?
As with many types of leaves, pine needles can cause a PH imbalance. They are
acidic and should be used very sparingly. No more than 10% pine needles in a
compost pile is the broadly accepted figure.
Is It Safe To Use Weeds?
Unless you are certain that your compost pile will heat efficiently it is better not to use
weeds that have gone to seed. You will need an internal compost temperature
exceeding 140 to kill the weed seeds.
Do not place pernicious grasses/weeds in your compost pile e.g. Bermuda Grass,
Buttercups, Crabgrass, Oxalis, Quack grass.
What Is Passive Composting?
This is when people gather suitable composting materials into a pile but do not turn it.
Turning is essential for creating heat which speeds up the decomposition process.
Since ‘passive’ piles are not turned the heat is not available so the decomposition
process takes far longer.
The composting materials do eventually break down and the compost is removed
from the bottom of the pile.
There are two main disadvantages of this process,
a. The lack of heat in these piles means that any plant pathogens or weed
seeds that have entered your pile are not destroyed.
b. Rodents are more likely to be attracted to these piles as food scraps will
not decompose as quickly and will not be in the center of the pile as they
would be with an active compost pile.
What Is The Active Phase Of Composting?
As your compost pile starts to heat up microorganisms start their work. These
microorganisms, referred to as thermopiles, only operate at temperatures in excess of
113
When they get into their stride the temperature of a compost pile rises very quickly.
Within 2 to 4 days a pile will reach an internal temperature of 130 -150
This rapid heating process is known as the ‘active’ phase or ‘hemophilic’ phase. It is
when your pile reaches those high temperatures that it is able to destroy weed seeds
and compounds that are poisonous to plants and pathogens. In very basic terms, a
pathogen is anything that can cause disease.
Examples of pathogens killed by high temperatures during the active phase are;
Clostridium Botulinum
This is a bacteria that produces several toxins, the most well known is Botulism.
Staphylococcus Aureus
This bacteria is associated with respiratory infections, skin infections and food
poisoning.

Escherichia Coli
Some strains of these bacteria can cause food poisoning. Commonly referred to as
E Coli.
What Is The Curing Phase Of Composting?
As the ‘active phase’ as described above, comes to a conclusion, the temperature
starts to drop. Microorganisms that initially lived in the pile prior to the heating stage
now re-emerge. These microorganisms are known as ‘mesophilic’. They prefer
temperatures in the range of 68 - 113 They now get to work again on
decomposition, when the pile has cooled down.
This part of the process is the ‘curing phase’. Less heat is being generated so less
oxygen is required. Therefore the pile does not need to be turned. Decomposition
continues and humus is formed.
This is a very important stage in the formation of compost and a compost pile should
be left to ‘cure’ for as long as possible.
If sufficient ‘curing’ time is not provided the compost will not be of optimum quality.
What Are The 4 Stages Of Composting?
There are 4 stages of composting.
1. Mesophilic – cool to warm temperature for mesophilic microorganism’s
activity.
2. Thermophilic – very warm to hot temperatures for thermophilic
microorganism’s activity.
3. Mesophilic –back to cool to warm temperatures for mesophilic
microorganism activity.
4. Maturation – this is the curing phase when the decomposition is
completed.
When Will My Compost Be Ready To Use?
There are many variables that will impact on the time needed to produce compost.

The types and quantities of materials used, pile management, size and location of the
pile etc. All of these factors will impact on the speed of the decomposition process.
Composting is generally considered to be finished when the feed stocks you placed in
the pile are no longer in a state of active decomposition. When they are no longer
actively decomposing they are considered to be chemically and biologically stable.
Basically you need to have ensured that your compost has went through the 4 stages
of composting. When it has cooled down for the last time and has been left
untouched for a few weeks it should be ready.
A slightly more scientific method would be to use a thermometer. The temperature at
the center of the pile should be near to ambient levels.
An average household compost pile will be ready to use within 3 to 4 months.
In temperate climates the fastest rate of composting will occur during Spring/Summer
and ease off in the fall months and most probably stop during winter.
Compost piles started during the cooler months will naturally take longer to reach
maturity.
It is possible for larger piles to remain active during the colder periods so creating a
large pile might be an option. A large compost pile would be in the range of 8 to 10
feet tall and 8 to 10 feet wide.
What Is The Effect Of Hot Dry Seasons or Cold Wet Winters?
If you live in an area with large extremes of climate such as very hot dry seasons or
very cold or wet winters it is more efficient to create a larger compost pile. This pile
should measure 7 feet wide, 7 feet long and 7 feet tall. A larger pile will retain heat for
longer, regulate moisture levels and subsequently work more efficiently . Smaller
piles will work, but they will take a lot longer to create usable compost as they are not
working at their most efficient.
Where Should the Pile be Located?
Again this will depend on your local climate. In areas with hot dry seasons, you would
be advised to place it in some form of shade. If cold or wet, you could place it in an
area that provides protection from the prevailing winds. If you live in a cooler climate
you could locate it in a position where it gets the maximum amount of sunshine.
If possible, always locate your compost pile on a level and free-draining area of your
garden. If you are building your own try to use an old pallet for the base as it will help
greatly with aeration.
Do I Need To Turn The Compost?
If you are not in a hurry and not short of space you could just leave the compost alone
and let it do its thing. This is referred to as passive composting. Unfortunately, the
savings made on labor are lost in the length of time it takes to create usable compost.
This method can take anywhere from 9 months to 18 months depending on how
efficiently your compost pile is set up.
Can I Speed Up The Composting Process?
You can add a thin layer of topsoil or previously matured compost between your layers
of carbon and nitrogen rich materials. This can help to ‘seed’ the new pile with
decomposing organisms.
My Compost Stinks! What Can I Do?
This is most likely one or both of the following problems. If the smell is just plain
offensive it is likely to be as a result of insufficient aeration. You need to turn and
loosen the pile to increase air flow around and throughout the pile.
If it smells of ammonia, it is because the ratio of carbon to nitrogen is wrong. There is
too much nitrogen tin the pile. You need to add some carbon rich materials to restore
the balance.
My Compost Pile Won’t Heat Up
There are 4 reasons for this.

1. The pile is too small. A reasonably large surface area is required for
heat generation. You need to add more materials in the correct ratio.
2. The pile is too wet. You need to add dry carbon rich sources and
provide more protection from rain.
3. The pile is too dry. You need to turn the pile and sprinkle with water.
Use the ‘sponge squeeze’ test so that you do not over water.
4. Your pile is lacking nitrogen rich materials. Add nitrogen providing
materials but stay as close as possible to the recommended ratios.
My Compost Pile Is Attracting Flies and Animals
This is a surprisingly common problem due to the use of inappropriate materials.
Meat and oils are the main culprits. Do not use meat or oils. If you cannot remove
these materials you need to move them to the very center of the pile then cover pile
with carbon rich materials.
I Don’t Have Enough Nitrogen Rich Materials
You can add the occasional layer of commercial nitrogen fertilizer. Be aware that
these are heavily concentrated so use sparingly. Over-use will result in an imbalance
in the carbon-nitrogen ratio and will also cause an ammonia smell as described
earlier. Avoid fertilizer that has pesticide or herbicide.
How Long Before I Can Use My Compost?
A properly balanced and managed compost pile with adequate warm temperatures
will generally be ready to use within 2 to 4 months. A compost pile started in late fall
will take longer as the weather will not be warm enough to maintain the needed
temperatures in the middle of the pile.
Where Should I Site My Compost Pile?
1. Choose a level, well drained site.
2. Ideally it should be accessible from all sides.
3. Maximize heat sources by placing in a sunny spot.
4. Minimize temperature drops by placing it in a location protected from
chilling winds.
5. Start your pile on top of well drained and reasonably loose soil to aid the
movement of insects and microorganisms into the pile.
6. Locate it so that it is not an eyesore to you or your neighbors.
Are There Health Issues?
There are a few health issues which need to be considered before venturing into
home composting. Mainly these relate to the person engaged in the composting and
the materials being used for compost.

Quite a lot of people add dog and cat waste to their compost heap. This is not
something I would recommend as cat and dog manures actually contain harmful
pathogens. In very simple terms a pathogen is an infectious agent that can cause
disease or illness. Although pathogens harmful to humans are rarely found in
vegetative matter it is always best to practice solid hygiene processes such as
washing hands, eyes, wearing a mask etc.

It might appear a little extreme but really with the exception of the face mask it is
something that is normally done. It is just a matter of being a little more aware of that
need when it comes to handling waste.

There are a variety of molds and fungi present in the composting process. Aspergillus
Fumigatus is a fungus which can cause a respiratory infection in some people. Most
people are unlikely to experience problems, however there are some people that may
be predisposed to allergic reactions or infections. People with weakened immune
systems, asthma, allergies and certain hormone and antibiotic medications should
avoid the actual turning of the compost or at the very least use a special dust mask.

The vast majority of home compost piles will never generate enough heat to kill the
pathogens that are found in dog and cat waste, meats, fats and oils. There is also the
problem of attracting rodents and of the smell associated with those materials. It is
always best to use a combination of garden waste and food waste.
What Are My Options with Compost Units?
There is an increasingly large amount of composting units to choose from. You could
build your own to a variety of styles, or you could choose from a large range of
manufactured units.

Basic Compost Holding Unit

These are a very basic design most suitable for yard/garden waste. There is no
turning of compost involved. They are a simple four sided structure placed on the
ground into which grass clippings, weeds, plant pruning’s, leaves etc. are placed.
They can be moved from one location to another within the garden. These can be
constructed from wood and wire, old pallets.
Disadvantage – These units do not create heat. This means that you will have to
wait anywhere from 6 months to 2 years to have usable compost. It also means that
they may retain weed seeds. Definitely not suitable for food waste. Usually quite
small, so may not be suitable for larger gardens.

Fixed Compost Turning Unit

This is a row of three or more compost holding units that allows waste to be turned on
a regular basis. Because of the capacity to turn the waste in these units, high quality
compost can be created reasonably quickly. Because of their size they are an
excellent composting unit for larger gardens. All garden waste is suitable and non-
meat kitchen waste can be added to the center of the pile.
How Do They Work?

Layers of carbon and nitrogen materials are placed in a bin to the 30:1 ratio. These
are then moistened to the level as described earlier in the sponge squeeze test.
These units will create heat but you will need to monitor the temperature. When the
temperature drops noticeably you then turn the pile from one box into the next. You
then start a pile in the empty box. You continue this process of moving waste from
box 1 through box 2 and finally into box 3. Follow the guidelines regarding aeration,
moisture, waste ratios etc.
If all systems are working efficiently you should be able to use the compost in bin 3
within a month.
The only disadvantage of this method is the time and cost of creating it, the labor
involved in turning it and the space required. Overall this system produces excellent
quality compost for what is a relatively small investment of labor and money.
Rotating Drum Compost Units
These composting units are kept raised off the ground as they are attached to bases
or upright stands. The drums are rotated in order to turn the compost. You rotate the
drum by turning a handle attached to one end of the drum. Other versions simply
require you to place the drum on the ground and roll it with your foot.
They are not the most efficient of composter units as they only operate optimally when
full, as with each addition of green material the composting process is interrupted.
Are There Alternatives To Traditional Composting?
There are 2 main alternatives to choose from, Bokashi Composting and Vermiculture.
What is Bokashi Composting?
This is a very practical and clean method of converting your kitchen waste into a
nutrient rich compost. This system uses a bin into which your wastes are added
along with a special mixture of bran and sawdust.
The bran and sawdust have been inoculated with microorganisms. These are very
specific organisms which have proven to be highly effective in the decomposition
process. These effective microbes are generally just referred to as “EM”.

The process works through fermentation rather than requires as the normal
putrefaction process, so it requires an anaerobic (oxygen free) environment, hence
the use of a sealed bin.
It is a very straight forward, fast and odor free process which permits the use of meat
and dairy products.
What Do I Need To Start?
1. A bin with a spigot. There are several sizes available. The tap is
required as a small amount of liquid known as “Bokashi Tea” is created. This
can be drained off using the spigot and is an ideal liquid fertilizer.
2. Bokashi Mix, this is the mix that has been treated with those effective
microbes.
3. Kitchen waste.
What Wastes Can I Use?
1. Fruit
2. Vegetables
3. Breads, cakes, pastries
4. Fish, raw and cooked
5. Meat, raw and cooked
6. Eggs
7. Cheese
8. Coffee grounds
9. Tea leaves, tea bags
10. Wilted flowers
11. Paper tissues.
What Wastes Cannot Be Used?
1. Liquids. Do not use milk, juices or water
2. Paper
3. Plastic
4. Meat bones
5. Do not use rotten waste
How Do I Use The Bokashi Bin/Bucket?
1. Place approximately 1 inch of kitchen waste into your bin.
2. Cover your waste with a handful of the specially prepared mix.
3. You will need to press down on every later you create. This helps to
remove air. You can place a plastic bag over the layer and push down with
your hands or you could use a food masher or similar. Do not forget to
remove the plastic.
4. Secure the lid tightly. This is a fermentation process. To work at its most
efficient it needs to be as oxygen-free as possible.
5. An amount of liquid will accumulate. This is the ‘Bokashi Tea’. Drain
this off using the spigot and use it as a fertilizer.
6. Repeat the layering process until the bin is full.
7. When bin is full you will need to add one more layer of bokashi.
8. Secure lid tightly and leave to ferment for another 10 to 14 days are
room temperature.
9. During this two weeks you should regularly drain off the Bokashi Tea.
10. At the end of the process your new compost will smell similar to cider
vinegar or pickles. This is a good thing! If you leave your waste to ferment
for longer than 14 days a white fungi will start to grow on the surface. This is
also a good thing!
Ideally you would have a second bin/bucket to start filling whilst your first bin is
fermenting.
Helpful Hints for Bokashi
1. Make your waste as small as possible.
2. Drain your waste using a strainer or colander prior to placing in bin.
3. Press firmly down on waste in bin.
4. Add extra Bokashi Mix if in doubt. Using the little bit extra will only
ensure that the fermentation process completes.
5. Always check lid to ensure that it is as tight as possible.
6. Regularly drain off liquids in the bin.
Bokashi F.A.Q.
When will The Compost Be Ready To Use?
Bokashi compost is ready when the waste has fermented. Using the process outlined
earlier will provide quality compost. Your waste will not have broken down as it would
with traditional compost. When you mix this compost into your soil it will break down
completely within a few weeks.
Can I Sow Plant Immediately?
It is best to wait for 7 to 10 days after adding your Bokashi to the soil. It is highly
acidic at first but it will lose this acidity within 7 to 10 days. Fresh or immature
compost will always damage roots. Give it 2 weeks and you are ready to go.

How Do I Mix Bokashi compost With Soil?

Simply remove a few inches of soil, add the Bokashi, mix some of the removed soil
with the Bokashi and then cover over with the remaining soil.
Can I Use Bokashi In Plant Containers?
Yes
1. Fill 1/3 of your container with your normal mix/soil.
2. Fill the next 1/3 with Bokashi and mix together with the first 1/3.
3. Use your normal mix/soil to fill the final 1/3 of the container.
4. Cover your container with plastic as securely as possible. This helps
maintains an anaerobic (non oxygen) environment.
5. Leave for 2 weeks and then you are ready to plant your containers.
My Bokashi Smells, What Should I Do?
Your Bokashi should not have a bad odor. Neither should it have blue-green or black
fungi. If any of these problems exists you need to do the following.
1. Add more Bokashi Mix.
2. Check that the lid is secure.
3. Frequently drain off the accumulated liquid.
4. Do not expose bin to extreme temperatures.
5. Do not expose bin to direct sunlight.
My Bokashi Went Totally Wrong!
1. Find a spot in your garden that you can dig up. It will need to be away
from plants.
2. Dig a hole large enough to accept your batch of Bokashi.
3. Place 3 large handfuls of Bokashi mix into the hole.
4. Add your Bokashi compost.
5. Mi the Bokashi compost with some of the removed soil.
6. Cover over with the remaining soil.
My Bokashi Is Not Producing Liquid?
The amount of liquid created will depend on the materials that are used. The
production of liquids is not essential to the process. You will have more liquid if your
scrap a lot of fruits and vegetables.
Can I Store Bokashi Liquid?
No. You must use your liquid within 24 hours of draining from the bin.
Are There Other Uses For Bokashi Liquid?
Yes. Because of the effective microorganisms used your Bokashi juice is also very
effective at combating harmful bacteria. Bokashi juice will help prevent the build- up
of d and reduce odor in kitchen and bathroom drains, septic systems and toilets.
Use the Bokashi liquid un-diluted.
Vermicomposting
What is Vermicomposting?
Vermicomposting is the use of worms and microorganisms to convert organic matter
into nutrient pack humus. The organic matter is consumed by the worms, passes
through their digestive tracts and is then excreted in the form of ‘castings’.
These castings help water and air to permeate the soil, provide a nutrient boost and
improve both soil structure and drainage. All of those factors create a greatly
improved growing environment for plants.
The castings can be mixed into the soil or used as a ‘top dressing’.
What Are The Advantages Of Vermicomposting?
1. Creates nutrient rich humus.
2. Improves soil structure.
3. No smell from de-composing food scraps.
4. Little space required.
5. Little labor required.
6. Reduces electricity and water usage by garbage disposal units.
7. Produces worms which can be placed around the garden to generally
improve drainage, aeration and nutrient content.
What Types Of Worms Are Used?
The most commonly used earthworms are tiger worm, brandling worm, and red
wiggler. These worms belong to a group of worms known as Epigeic. These types
are commonly found living at the surface of decaying plant and animal residues, e.g.
rotting leaves, falling leaves etc. The species mentioned above belong to a group
within the category epigeic, known as Eisenia Fetida.
What Equipment Do I Need?
1. Worm Bin; you can buy these or make them yourself.
think about the quantity of waste you will be composting and the location of
your bin. It is better to have a shallow container rather than a deep container
as the worms that are used live near the top surface of the soil i.e. within 6
inches of the soil. If you have the free space a good size to start with is a
box measuring 24 inches x 18 inches x 8 inches.
If you choose to use a wooden bin you will need to line the bottom with
plastic.
Your worm bin will need a cover with drilled holes to create an air flow
within the bin.
2. Bedding; Shredded paper is all you require for this process. Do not
use magazines or glossy paper. Paper bags, black and white newspaper,
white office paper and cardboard are acceptable.
3. Food Scraps; vegetable scraps, fruit scraps, coffee grounds. Avoid
oils, meats and dairy products as they take a lot longer to break down. You
should also avoid cooked foods as these will often contain butter/oil. These
products also tend to attract pests. Avoid citrus fruits as they are too acidic
and can also attract fruit flies. You should also avoid broccoli and onions, if
possible, as tend to produce a strong odor.
4. Drill; you will need holes in the lid of your bin.
5. Small amount of soil/compost.
6. One pound of worms per square foot of compost bin.
7. Water spray bottles.
8. Bucket of water. If keeping your bin inside, a plastic container is a better
choice. If keeping your bin outside you can use timber. Do not use treated
timber.
you might also need a plastic tray or similar to collect any liquid that might
seep from the container.
How Do I Set Up My Compost Bin?
1. Worms’s bodies are composed of 80%water, so they need to be kept
fully hydrated. You will need to moisten the paper bedding. Put the
shredded paper into a bucket of water and let it soak for 20 minutes.
2. After approximately 20 minutes remove the wet paper and squeeze out
the excess water. Now lightly fluff up the wet paper so that it is compressed.
This is vital as air needs to circulate throughout the paper.
3. Place 6 to 8 inches of the damp paper at the bottom of the bin. Now
lightly cover the bedding with a layer of soil or compost. If the soil/compost
has dried out you will need to moisten it. Use the spray bottle to dampen
the soil.
4. The role of the bedding is very important. It not only provides the
necessary environment for the worms but it is also used to cover your food
scraps. Keeping the food scraps covered helps to prevent the food
becoming smelly and also reduces the risk of fruit flies. Every time you place
scraps in the bin you will need to cover with moist bedding.
5. Worms will eat approximately half their weight in food every day. It won’t
take long for the bedding to disappear. Use 2 to 3 inches of moist bedding
for every input of scraps.
6. Depending on the size of worms used you will get approximately 500 to
2,000 worms per pound. You will need at least 1,000 worms for an efficient
bin. The best place to buy your worms is from a worm grower. Growers will
be able to provide the quantities you need. Bait shops usually sell only 12-
16 worms per cup. This is not practical and too expensive.
7. At this stage you should have a layer of moist bedding and a light layer
of soil.
8. You can now add your food scraps. Try to make your scraps as
physically small as possible to speed up the entire process. When you have
the food in the bin you will now need to cover with a layer of bedding. When
the bedding is in place you can add the worms. You will notice that the
worms will immediately start burrowing into the bedding so that they avoid
the light.
9. Some people do not put a bedding and soil layer at the very bottom.
They put the scraps in first and then a layer. I prefer to put in a layer of
bedding and soil at the bottom and then start layering with food, bedding,
food bedding etc.
whichever method you choose you will need to cover your fist layer of food
with a layer of bedding and then add the worms.
10. Many users also like to use a grid system when placing food in the bin.
They would place food in each little section and work their way around the
bin until they end up where they started. This works very well.
for the size of bin used in this example you should not add more than 4
pounds of food scraps per week. The worms will not be able to consume
that quantity and eventually an anaerobic (non oxygen) environment will be
created which will create bad odors.
Common Problems And Solutions
1. Bad Odors
These are caused by one or all of the following.
Overfeeding – Stop putting food in bin for 2 weeks.
Food is exposed – Bury food completely, place layer of bedding over food.
Bin is too wet - Remove lid for a period until materials dry out a little. Mix in
dry bedding to absorb some of the excess moisture.
Not enough air – Drill additional holes in lid. Fluff up bedding to improve air
circulation.
2. Flies – Food is exposed, ensure food is completely covered. Too much
food, especially citrus fruits can also attract flies. Reduce amount of food
until what is in bin has been consumed by worms. Avoid or reduce the
amount of citrus fruit.
3. Dead or dying worms
bin is too dry use spray bottle to thoroughly dampen the bedding.
bin is too wet – leave lid off for a period of time, mix in dry bedding absorb
some of the moisture.
Not enough air circulation – Drill additional holes in lid, fluff up the bedding.
Extreme temperatures – Remove bin from sources of extreme temperatures,
the ideal temperature range is 55 to 77 .
Not enough food – additional food scraps and bedding is required.
4. Mold Growth
This means that the environment within the bin is too acidic. You need to
reduce or cease the use of citrus fruits in your scraps.
5. Water gathering at bottom of bin – reduce the amount of high water
content fruit scraps and or coffee grounds.
Leave lid off for a few days and place additional dry bedding in bin.
6. Dry Bedding – this is a result of excess ventilation. Ensure lid is
securely in place and/or a.) moisten bedding b.) plug some of the ventilation
holes in the lid.
How Do I Harvest Worm Castings?
You have a choice of two methods, method 1 involves removing some of the castings
regularly on an ongoing basis. Method 2 involves removing all the castings in one
process.
Method 1
If using this method you need to start placing your food scraps to one side of the bin
over a period of weeks. The majority of worms will then move to the side of the bin
containing scraps.
When this movement occurs you can remove the castings from the area of the bin left
vacant by the worms. When the worm castings have been removed you will need to
add fresh bedding. You can then start using this side of the bin for food scraps. Over
a period of weeks the worms will move back to this side and you can harvest their
castings from the area they have just left.
When both sides of the bin have been harvested you can then add more bedding
across the entire bin and start placing scraps across the full area of the bin. After
several weeks you can then start the process of concentrating on one side of the bin
as described in previous paragraph.
Method 2 requires that the entire contents of the bin are emptied. Follow the process
outlined below.
1. Find a large plastic sheet or similar, must be plastic.
2. Spread out the sheet in an area that contains a lot of light, either artificial
light or sunlight.
3. Empty the contents of the bin on to the sheet.
4. The worms will start to move away from the light and will move deeper
into the compost to avoid the light. Wait fifteen minutes and then start to
scrape off the top layer.
5. Wait another 15 minutes and then scrape another layer off. Waiting 15
minutes gives the worms time to move further down the compost and leaves
you free to remove the compost without removing most of the worms.
6. Keep repeating the waiting and layering process until you have almost
removed the entirety of the compost. In the last section of compost you will
find most of the worms as they try to avoid the light.
7. Gently scoop up the worms and keep them in a dark moist location until
you are ready to use them when you start your bin again.
8. Watch out for worm egg capsules. Each of these egg capsules will
produce about three worms. Place these eggs capsules back into your
freshly started bin.
The egg capsules are light brown in color with a shiny appearance, they are
lemon shaped and about the size of a match head.
Other Books By This Author- Ed Gaynor
Seed Starting, Starting And Transplanting Seeds, Step By Step Guide
How To Grow Carrots, Step By Step
How To Grow Tomatoes
How To Grow Potatoes

How To Grow Garlic

How To Grow Herbs
How To Plant Trees
How To Grow Orchids

©Copyright Ed Gaynor. The author retains all copyright. No part of this publication
may be re-produced in any form without the prior written permission of the copyright
holders. Respect copyright.
 Table of Contents
What Is Composting?. 3
How Does Compost Improve Soil Condition?. 3
How Does The Composition Process Work?. 4
What Are The Essential Ingredients For Quality Compost?. 4
The Composting Recipe. 5
How is A Compost Pile Layered?. 5
Types Of Composting Units. 7
Composting F.A.Q. 8
How Large Should The Material Be?. 8
What Materials Can I Use?. 8
What Materials Cannot Be Used?. 9
How important is Moisture and Aeration?. 9
How important is The Size of the Pile?. 10
How Important Is Time and Temperature?. 10
What Is The Composting Ratio?. 10
What Are Green/Nitrogen Rich Sources?. 10
What Are Brown/Carbon Rich Sources?. 10
What are Compost Activators?. 11
Do I Need To Cover My Compost Pile?. 11
Are All Leaves Suitable?. 11
Is It Safe To Use Weeds?. 12
What Is Passive Composting?. 12
What Is The Active Phase Of Composting?. 13
What Is The Curing Phase Of Composting?. 13
What Are The 4 Stages Of Composting?. 13
When Will My Compost Be Ready To Use?. 14
What Is The Effect Of Hot Dry Seasons or Cold Wet Winters?. 14
Where Should the Pile be Located?. 14
Do I Need To Turn The Compost?. 15
Can I Speed Up The Composting Process?. 15
My Compost Stinks! What Can I Do?. 15
My Compost Pile Won’t Heat Up. 15
My Compost Pile Is Attracting Flies and Animals. 15
I Don’t Have Enough Nitrogen Rich Materials. 15
How Long Before I Can Use My Compost?. 15
Where Should I Site My Compost Pile?. 16
Are There Health Issues?. 16
What Are My Options with Compost Units?. 17
Are There Alternatives To Traditional Composting?. 18
What is Bokashi Composting?. 18
What Do I Need To Start?. 18
What Wastes Can I Use?. 18
What Wastes Cannot Be Used?. 18
How Do I Use The Bokashi Bin/Bucket?. 19
Helpful Hints for Bokashi 19
Bokashi F.A.Q. 19
Vermicomposting. 21
What is Vermicomposting?. 21
What Are The Advantages Of Vermicomposting?. 21
What Types Of Worms Are Used?. 21
What Equipment Do I Need?. 21
How Do I Set Up My Compost Bin?. 22
Common Problems And Solutions. 23
How Do I Harvest Worm Castings?. 23
Other Books By This Author- Ed Gaynor. 24