SEWING TECHNOLOGY

INTRODUCTION
Sewing is a process of fastening or attaching two parts of fabric
using stitches made with needle and thread.
 SEWING MACHINES
IS HAND SEWING
LOOK ALMOST THE
AND MACHINE
SAME, ARE THEY OF
SEWING SAME? DIFFERENT TYPES?

WHAT ARE SEWING

RELATED PROBLEMS?
PARTS OF SEWING MACHINE
 HEAD ARM BED

SPOOL PIN THREAD GUIDE TAKE-UP LEVER

PRESSER BAR TENSION DISC NEEDLE BAR

NEEDLE CLAMP PRESSER FOOT NEEDLE

 BOBBIN WINDER BALANCE WHEEL FEED DOG

THROAT PLATE SLIDE PLATE SHUTTLE

 BOBBIN BOBBIN CASE BELT

BAND WHEEL PITMAN ROD BAND WHEEL CRANK

BELT GUIDE TREADLE BELT SHIFTER
No. Machine Part Function

1 Arm The horizontal part of head that houses the drive shafts

2 Bed The working surface of the machine

.
3 Belt The circular strap that transmits motion from pulley to hand
wheel, allowing the machine to operate.

4 Bobbin mechanism The parts-bobbin,bobbin case and bobbin tension spring that
controls the lower threads

5 Bobbin winder The part that fills another bobbin while machine is stitching
6 Face Plate The cover on the left side of the bead that covers needle bar and presser
. bar
7 Feed Dogs The toothed mechanism beneath the presser foot that moves the fabric
forward and backward
8 Hand wheel The part that controls motion of the machine manually or electrically

9 Head The part of the machine above the table, that contains the stitching
mechanism
10 Hook A rotating device that hooks the needle thread to carry it around the
bobbin and form lock on the lockstitch
11 Knee Lift A Lever mounted at the right under the sewing table to lift and lower the
presser foot with the right knee
12 Motor The electrical unit that drives the machine

13 Needle The part that penetrates the fabric; it carries the thread to the hook or
shuttle and up again to make the stitch
 14 Needle bar The bar to which the presser foot is attached

15 Presser bar The bar to which the presser foot is attached

16 Presser foot A device that holds the fabric in place for stitching

17 Take-up lever The part that first loosens the top thread during the stitch
formation and then remove any slack to set or lock the
stitch.

18 Tension disc Two concave discs that control the delivery of the upper
thread from the spool to the needle.
.
 CLASSIFICATION OF
SEWING MACHINES

Based On General Based on technical

Classification Characteristics

● Basic sewing
machine ● Based on stitch
● Special sewing type
machine ● Based on bed
● Automated sewing type
machine
General Classification of Sewing Machine

1) Basic sewing machines

2) Special sewing machines are for a specific operation or function.-

a)Based on functions

b) Based on stitch type

c) Automated sewing machines

d)Robotic sewing systems

Basic Sewing Machine

● Basic sewing machines comprise

machines that sew with a lockstitch
and multi-thread chain stitch. This
is mainly intended for attaching
garment components.
 Special sewing machines are for a
specific operation or function.

● Based on functions such as machines for

pocket piping, button attachment, button
hole, quilting, Embroidery machines.
 .

AUTOMATIC SEWING MACHINES

● Automated sewing machines are sophisticated specialised

machines. The key features of these kinds of machines are its
capability to perform automatic sewing when the fabric is
positioned and the machine is started, cut the thread after
sewing, release the fabric etc.
Robotic Sewing Machine
● Robotic sewing systems have a multi-functional manipulator
where reprogramming and designing possibilities are enabled
for easy sewing.
SEWING MACHINE CLASSIFICATION BASED ON BED TYPE

Bed is a part of the sewing machine on which the fabric rests

while it is being sewed.
TYPES OF BEDS

I) FLAT BED

II) CYLINDER BED

III) POST BED

IV)FEED-OFF-THE-ARM BED

V)SIDE BED

VI)RAISED BED
 FLAT BED

● Most common and basic

type.
● The large working area
allows a wide range of
sewing application.The
material can be easily
guided around the needle
and presser foot.
 CYLINDER BED
● This type of garment sewing
machine has an increased
working height and a bed in
shape of a horizontal arm.
● It is specially suitable for
sewing on tubular parts,such as
cuffs,sleeves, and trouser legs,
also for button sewing and bar
tacking
 POST BED
●It has a raised working
machine bed and is used for
stitching three dimensional
products. Increased working
height and vertical hook in a
post.
●Used for small, curved
(concave or convex ) part of
garment.
 FEED-OFF-THE ARM

● The feed-off- the arm is used

where the lapped seam has to be
closed in such a way that the
garment part becomes a tube.
● They are common in jeans
production where the outside leg
seam is normally the type known
as lap-felled.
 RAISED BED

● Raised bed machines is a

machine where the entire
machine is mounted on the
top of the table.
● It is the basic form for various
specialized garments sewing
machines such as
buttonholes.
 SIDE BED

● An overlock stitch sews over the

edge of one or two pieces of
cloth for edging, hemming,
seaming.
● Usually an overlock sewing
machine. Machines which are
specialised for sewing at edges
Type of feed systems
Feed systems usually work on the underside of the material but can also
operate above or from both sides at the same time, depending on the need to
avoid the particular problem in sewing.

Drop Feed is a basic material feed system where the feed alternately engages
and disengages with the underside of material and is suitable for general sewing
operations on any material which has no particular sewing problems.

Differential Drop Feed is a differential feed which utilizes two independently

driven feed dogs. The stroke of each feed dog can be adjusted separately. If the
stroke of the front feed dog is greater than the fabric may be stretched to provide
a more stretchable seam.
 Feed Mechanism
Apart from classifications according to stitch type capabilities and
body design, sewing machines can also be categorized according to
the kind of feed mechanism that they use.

The material feed means the controlled movement of the material

being sewn from one stitch position to the next. Moving the material
through the sewing pint is what converts a series of stitches into the
seam.
The most common types of sewing machine feed mechanisms
are as follows:

1. Drop feed mechanism

2. Differential feed mechanism
3. Needle feed mechanism
4. Walking foot mechanism
5. Puller feed mechanism
 BUTTON HOLE

● Reinforced holes in fabric that

buttons pass through, allowing one
piece of fabric to be secured to
another.
● The raw edges of a buttonhole are
usually finished with stitching done
either by hand or by a sewing
machine.
 I BLIND STITCHING

● A blind stitch in sewing is a method

of joining two pieces of fabric so that
the stitch thread is invisible, or nearly
invisible. Inside with zigzag

● Blind stitching hides stitching under

folded edges.This type of stitch can
be used to create a blind hem or to
join two folded edges together.
● This technique allows the sewer to
invisibly attach pockets, facings and
trimmings to a garment
Outside with invisible seam
SAFETY STITCHING

● Safety-stitching sews the seams

and finishes the edges in one
operation.
● If the seams breaks, the overcast
edge will prevent the garment
from opening, which is why it is
called a safety-stitch.
 BARTACKING

● In sewing, bar tack, also written bar-

tack or bartack, refers to a series of
stitches used to reinforce areas of a
garment that may be subject to stress or
additional wear.
● Typical areas for bar tack stitches
include pocket openings, buttonholes,
belt loops, the bottom of a fly
opening,tucks, pleats and the corners of
collars.
BASIC SEWING MACHINES THAT ARE USED IN THE GARMENT INDUSTRY

1. Single Needle Lock stitch machine(SNLS)

2. Over Lock (ALL TYPE)

3. Flat Lock Machine.

4. Feed of the arm machine.

5. Bartack machine.

6. Button stitch machine.

7. Button hole machine

SINGLE NEEDLE
LOCKSTITCH MACHINE
● This machine makes lock stitches.
Lock stitches are formed with one
needle thread and one bobbin
thread.
● Single needle lock stitch machines
are used for joining two or multiple
fabric plies together.
 OVER LOCK SEWING
MACHINE

● An overlock stitch sews over the edge of

one or two pieces of cloth for edging,
hemming or seaming. Usually an
overlock sewing machine will cut and
sew at the edge of the cloth.
● This machine is used for serging
garment panels (example trouser panel
serging) and for over edge stitch
 FLAT LOCK
SEWING MACHINE

● This machine is called a cover-

stitch sewing machine. Flat lock
sewing machines normally come
with 2-3 needles.
● Flat lock machines are used for
Cover stitches and bottom of knits
products.
FEED-OFF-THE ARM
MACHINE

● This machine is used for making

flat and felt seam. Two needle
threads form the chain stitch.
● For example, this machine is
used for sewing shirt side seams
and under arms, and for sewing
jeans inseam and out seam
BAR TACKING MACHINE

● Bartack is made to reinforce the

seam and garment component.
Like in belt loop joining and at the
bottom of the side pocket opening,
bartacking is done.
● The machine is used to give secure
stitches
BUTTON HOLE MACHINE

● The machine is used for making

buttonholes on garments. Button
holes can be made with different
stitch density. Like in shirts,trousers,
and polo shirts etc.
BUTTON STITCH MACHINE

● A special machine used only for

stitching buttons in a garment.
Different sizes of button can be
attached in same machine by changing
settings
● The purpose is to attach a button. The
machine stitches buttons and trim
threads automatically
 SPECIAL SEWING MACHINES

There are machines that sew a short, automatic cycle such as a

buttonhole, bar tack, button sew or label. The machine sews
only one stitch type and changes in the stitching configuration
are limited.
More possibilities are available with the advent of
microprocessor control!
 A THREE THREAD OVERLOCK
MACHINE WITH A MICROPROCESSOR
It can be used to sew woven
fabrics, but not in areas that
will receive a lot of stress. The
three-thread can also be used
to sew pintucks, make narrow
rolled hems, and to finish
fabric edges.
 Features of three thread overlock
machine with a microprocessor are:
•Trimming and over edging in a single operation
•Easy adjustment
•Instant stopping and starting
•Maximum speed is 3300 r.p.m
•Typically operated for both general plain seaming and blind stitch
hemming operated
•Three Threads
 BUTTONHOLE MACHINE

The simplest buttonholes are

used on shirts, blouses and
other lightweight garments;
more complex buttonholes
are used on heavier tailored
garments.
ELECTRONIC BAR TACKING
SEWING MACHINE
These machines sew a number of
stitches across the point to be
reinforced and then sew covering
stitches over and at right angles to
the first stitches.
 LABEL SEWERS

A variety of label sewers are available,

from those sewing simple zig-zag
stitches to a predetermined length on
one or two edges of a label, to
programmable profile stitchers that
can sew round a wide range of shapes
and sizes of label.
 SEWING PROBLEMS
The problems are most conveniently divided into:
• problems of stitch formation that give rise to poor
seam appearance and performance;
• problems of fabric distortion known as ‘pucker’,
which also give rise to poor seam appearance;
• problems of damage to fabric along the stitch line.
The main problems that arise from the actual
stitch formation are:
· skip or slipped stitches
· staggered stitching
· unbalanced stitches
· variable stitch density
· needle, bobbin or looper thread breakage
Problems of stitch formation:

SKIPPED OR SLIPPED
STITCHING
Skip or slipped stitches arise
from the hook or looper in the
machine not picking up the loop
in the needle thread.
STAGGERED STITCHING
Causes of staggered stitches Possible solution

Inappropriate size needle Go up a needle size

Inappropriate needlepoint Select sharper point

Inappropriate needle blade Select tapered blade

Damaged needle Replace needle

Poor material control Check current settings

Use alternative feed
mechanism

Inappropriate seam for Redesign to sew at a slight

selected fabric angle of bias
UNBALANCED STITCHES

Unbalanced lockstitch Possible Solution

seams

Low extension, bobbin Reduce bobbin thread

thread breakage tension
Check needle thread
tension

Low extension, needle Reduce needle thread

thread breakage tension
Check bobbin thread
tension
 VARIABLE STITCH
Variable stitch density Possible solution

Poor material control using Increase foot pressure

drop feed Check feed dog setting
Avoid sewing bursts
Change to better feeding
mechanism

Poor material control using Increase foot pressure

specialized feed system Check feed dog settings
Avoid sewing bursts
Change to walking foot
mechanism
Introduce puller
BREAKAGE OF THREADS
Thread breakage Possible solution

Damage to thread guiding mechanisms Polish or replace all damaged parts

Damage to throat plate Polish or replace throat plate

Incorrect thread tension Check and adjust thread tension

Incorrect settings for stitch Check timing and adjust

forming

Poor thread quality Change thread

 CONT.

Poor cone of thread Adjust guides, remove

faulty cone

Wrong needle size for Match thread with needle

thread size

Needle overheating Reduce speed of sewing

Reduce needle size
Improve sewability via
fabric finish
 1.2 Problems of pucker:

The main problem that is solely appearance-

related is that of pucker. It is one of the most
common sewing problem. Pucker is a
wrinkled appearance along a seam in an
otherwise smooth fabric.
 Seam pucker may arise due to various
factors. Some of them are listed below:

• Seam pucker due to differential fabric stretch.

• Seam pucker caused by differential fabric dimensional instability.
• Seam pucker due to extension in the sewing threads.
• Seam pucker due to sewing thread shrinkage.
PUCKERED FABRICS

.
1.3 Problems of damage to the fabric along
the stitch line:

The problems that occur in sewing can be

divided into those of mechanical damage and
those of needle overheating damage.
 MECHANICAL DAMAGE:
A major problem is that the combination of the
machine speed and the nature of the fabric
prevents the yarns from moving out of the way of
the needle sufficiently fast to avoid damage
 REMEDIES FOR
.
MECHANICAL
DAMAGE

Application of a lubricant
along stitch line before sewing
NEEDLE OVERHEATING DAMAGE:

Needle overheating occurs as a result of friction between the

needle and the fabric being sewn. Melted fibres stick to the
surface of the needle, increasing its friction and clogging the eye
and grooves so that eventually no thread will sew because of
breakage or skipped stitches.
 REMEDIES FOR
NEEDLE HEATING
DAMAGE

By reducing sewing speed so

that there is less generation of
heat to the needle.
1)https://www.slideshare.net/johnlenonmendoza/parts-and-function-of-sewing-machine

2)
https://www.slideshare.net/biniamgere9/u-5-sewing-technology-88101279?qid=88b45bc5-
3ddb-4f18-9e29-375d5e5b664e&v=&b=&from_search=7//

3)https://www.slideshare.net/johnlenonmendoza/parts-and-function-of-sewing-machine/

4)https://www.textileschool.com/222/feeding-systems-of-sewing-machines/

5) https://www.explainthatstuff.com/sewingmachines.html

6))
https://www.abcsewingmachine.com/blogs/features/70458309-the-different-types-of-sewi
ng-machine-feed-mechanisms
.

7)The sewing of textiles S. Hayes and J. McLoughlin, Manchester Metropolitan University.

REFERENCES
8) Carr technology and of clothing.
A STITCH IN TIME SAVES NINE!

SHARAN SHETTY 18TXT105

YASH DOSHI 18TXT103
RUCHI THAKUR 18TXT110
! SAHIL GHUGE 18TXT109