PATTERN AND

SELECTION
DEVICES
Engr. Md. Humayun Kabir
Lecturer, Jhenaidah Textile Engineering
College, Jhenaidah ( JTEC).
PATTERN AND SELECTION
DEVICES:
Weft knitted patterns:
Generally, patterns are produced in weft knitted structures either in the
form of selected colours for face stitches or surface relief patterns based
on a choice of different types of stitch. As illustrated in Fig. the height to
which a latch needle is lifted in its trick determines which stitch will be
knitted. If all needle butts are in the same position on the needle stems
and they pass over the same cam profile, a plain fabric will be knitted,
with all stitches having the same intermeshed loop structure. Patterning is
therefore determined by selection of needle butts – for example, either to
pass onto a raising cam to knit or to miss the cam profile and not be
lifted.
PATTERN AND SELECTION
DEVICES :
The width of the pattern in wales is
determined by how many needles can be
selected separately, independently of each other.
The pattern depth in courses is dependent upon
the number of feeds with selection facilities and
whether the selection can be changed during
knitting.
Simple patterning and quick rib changes (during
garment-length knitting) can be achieved in a
limited width repeat when element butts are at
one of a range of lengths or positions associated
with particular raising cam arrangements.
PATTERN AND SELECTION
DEVICES:
The cam arrangement and element butt repeat set-out will determine the
pattern area. Popular simple methods employ different butt lengths and cam
thicknesses and/or different butt positions and cam tracks.

Principle of different length of butt.

Principle of different butt positions.
Multi-step butt set-outs.
Geometrical butt set-out
o Straight butt set-out (straight draft)
o Mirror repeat butt set-out (for symmetrical design)
PATTERN AND SELECTION
DEVICES:
Different lengths of butt:
Whereas butts of normal length extend into the track formed between cams and
guide their elements by contact with the profiled edges, a butt of shorter length
may not reach into the track and will thus pass across the face of the cam and be
unaffected by its profile (Fig.).
The same principle is employed when cams are withdrawn into their cam-plate
or the elements are depressed into their tricks, thus reducing the effective length
of their butts.
The principle of butt lengths is that the element with the longest butt is always
contacted first as a cam is brought into operation and the shortest butt is affected
only when the cam is fully in action.
PATTERN AND
SELECTION
DEVICES :
For example, a tuck cam might
be partly in action, raising long and
medium butt needles but allowing
short butt needles to pass across at
miss height, whilst the succeeding
clearing cam is set to raise only
long butt needles, leaving medium
butt needles at tuck height.
PATTERN AND SELECTION
DEVICES:
Different butt positions:
The principle of different butt positions is employed in the interlock cam
system, where two cam tracks are used (Section 7.4.2). In single-jersey multi-
cam track (raceway) machines, needle butts may be positioned in one of
between 2 and 5 cam tracks that, at every feed position, have fixed but
exchangeable knitting, tucking or missing cams. In some machines (e.g.
jacquard machines), a common top butt is controlled by a stitch cam-track,
whereas in high-speed machines the exchangeable cams also incorporate the
stitch and guard cam shape and are located on a common slide for stitch length
adjustment (Fig.).
PATTERN
AND
SELECTION
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PATTERN AND SELECTION
DEVICES:
Multi-step butt set-outs:
Although some selection devices, including pattern wheels, operate onto
element butts of one height position, many patterning arrangements involve
the use of a single selection butt for each element, placed at one of a choice of
height positions. The total number of different heights often directly influences
the width repeat in wales. It is generally most convenient to arrange and retain
a butt set-out that is a factor of the needle bed, so that the pattern widths
exactly repeat into it.
PATTERN AND SELECTION
DEVICES:
The two most common geometrical butt set-outs are straight and mirror repeats,
although combinations of the two are possible.
1. A straight (diagonal, echelon, or up-and-up) butt set-out : It is arranged in an
ascending order in the direction of knitting (Fig. 11.2). Each butt position is used once
only in the set-out repeat, so the pattern width is equal to the number of available
pattern butt positions.
2. A mirror repeat (reflex chevron, up-and-down, or geometric) butt set-out: it is a
mirrored continuation of the straight set-out, with the butts descending in sequence
after the highest position (see Fig. 11.3). The top and bottom butts are not used in the
descending sequence as the former would produce two identical adjacent wales in the
same repeat and the latter would produce two identical adjacent wales with the first
wale of the next repeat. This set-out thus produces a symmetrical design width about a
common centre wale, with the right side identically mirroring the left side.
PATTERN
AND
SELECTION
DEVICES:
PATTERN AND SELECTION
DEVICES:
Selection devices:
Selection devices vary considerably in their facilities and their pattern-
changing and pattern-area capabilities.
A selection device is positioned to operate in advance of a raising cam
system (usually associated with a knitting feed position) to select the path that
the element operating butts will follow as they pass through that system. Each
possible path will cause the element to be moved in a different manner,
resulting in the knitting of a different type of stitch. Usually, a selection
decision determines the choice of two butt paths
PATTERN AND SELECTION
DEVICES:
Element selection:
Element selection involves three aspects:
1. The initiation and presentation of the selection decision, usually as a YES or NO, by the
presence or absence of a tooth, a peg, a punched hole or an electronic impulse. Normally,
there is a selection in advance of a raising cam, with each feeder course being associated
with a particular selection device.
2. The transmission of the selection decisions from the device and their reception by elements
in each trick of the needle bed. One of three methods is normally employed for this task:
(a) Employing individual raising cams, when required, for each element raising butt (pattern
wheel selection).
(b) Selectively pushing the elements upwards in their stationary tricks to align their raising
butts into action with the path of the traversing or rotating cam systems (full mechanical
jacquard selection).
PATTERN AND SELECTION
DEVICES:
(c) Selectively retracting the elements into the interior of their tricks so that their
raising butts no longer project out into the path of the cams. This method is
widely used for mechanically- and electronically-initiated selection on circular
and flat machines, especially when employing geometric multi-butt set-outs of
selection butts. Raising butts may be selected to miss a complete raising cam or
only the final upper section (e.g. between tucking and clearing height).

3. The translation of the selection decision into a knitting movement. With the
exception of linear-motor drive of needles, this is still a completely mechanical
action of a raising butt following, or failing to follow, the profile of a raising
cam and thus causing an element to be lifted, or not lifted, in its trick during a
stitch formation cycle.
PATTERN AND SELECTION
DEVICES:
Selection area arrangement :
Dependent upon the type of device, four arrangements of the selection areas around
the fabric tube are possible:
1. Full jacquard selection: It can produce a selection area of theoretically unlimited
depth and a width equal to the number of needles in the cylinder, so that the
design exactly surrounds the fabric tube without repeating.
2. Pattern wheel Pattern wheels have a circumference selection that is not an exact
factor of the number of cylinder needles, so that their selection areas follow the
spiral path of the feeder courses around the fabric tube. In the starting wale of
each machine revolution, the base of the areas will thus have risen by the number
of feeder courses knitted in one machine revolution compared with its position in
the same starting wale at the previous machine revolution (Fig. 11.4a). .
PATTERN AND SELECTION
DEVICES:
3. Fixed geometric selection devices (step jack devices): It provide only one
selection width at each device, which is unchanged from one machine selection to the
next (Fig. 11.4b). Machines employing this type of device are termed small-area or
intermediate jacquards; although their pattern area potential is limited, they have
sufficient feeders and speed to be employed in the production of single colour and
plain structures as well as jacquards
4. Non-fixed geometric selection device: It hold a limited number of different
selection widths so that a new selection width may be presented, commencing in the
starting wale of each machine revolution (Fig. 11.4c). Single-jersey and rib machines
using non-fixed selection are termed large-area jacquards. A design depth is thus
developed that is a multiple of the number of machine revolutions in the sequence of
selection presentations. These devices produce a displacement line between the
starting and finishing wales of the tube in the form of a rise by the number of feeder
courses in one revolution. Usually, the tube is split open along this line during
finishing.
PATTERN
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SELECTI
ON
DEVICES:
PATTERN AND SELECTION DEVICES:
Full jacquard mechanical needle selection :
Full jacquard mechanical needle selection provides the possibility of independent selection over
the full width of the stationary needle bed in a simultaneous movement for all needles on flat m/cs or
into blocks of adjacent needles on revolving cam-box circulars. Each column of holes is allocated to a
particular needle, with a new selection being presented by each part turn of the prism of roller.
Jacquard film is design according to fabric design. And it is placed over a grooved roller. This
grooved roller is moving 1/12 part per revolution. When there have a hole in this film, then spring
load pin became selected. For grooved roller movement, pin is pressured to automat lever. Automat
lever press lifter lever and then jack is pressed upper for selection.
Limitation of this selection:
1. Production speed is low.
2. Limited feeder.
3. Width unlimited.
4. Pattern changing is time consuming and expensive.
5. Coarse gauge have used.