Overlock Machine

Introduction
• Over lock machine is a special purpose machine used for
finishing edges and sometimes for seaming.
• It falls under the class 500.
• Stitch types in this class are formed with one or more groups
of threads
• General characteristics that loops from at least one group of
threads pass around the edge of the material.
• Over-edge stitching is generally done on side-bed.
• It has a small working area.
• It is specialized for overlock machines.
Features
• Used to form over lock stitch / covering stitch.
• Sew both knitted and woven fabric.
• Makes an edge finish by trimming as well as to sew seams.
• In one operation, it cuts off the fabric to smooth edge and
warps thread around the edge.
• Speed of machine – 8000 RPM
• The sewing speed must be between 6000-8500 SPM.
• Stitch Length – 0.8 to 5mm.
• Stitch is very elastic and can stretch up to 300%.
• Stitch can be made using 2,3,4, and 5 threads, depending on
the no. of needles and looper.
• Needles – DC x 1, DC x 27, DO x 5.
Precaution
• A Needle with blunt or bent point should not be used in an
edge cutter machine as it causes imperfection and may cause
the needle to break .
• The size of the needle must conform to the size of the thread
and should be suitable for the material being sewn.
Stitch Type
• 2-thread overlock
• 1-needle and 1-looper thread.
• Stitch type: 503
• Best for: Light weight fabric.
• Application: serging edges, finishing seam edge and allowance.
• Should be avoided in area that will receive stress.
Cont.
• 3-thread overlock
• 1-needle and 2-looper thread.
• Stitch type: 504 & 505.
• Best for: Light weight & medium weight fabric.
• Application: used for sewing woven and knits fabrics but should
be avoided in area of stress.
• Mostly used in skirts, lingerie, swimwear, etc.
Cont.
• 4-Thread Overlock
• 2- needle and 2- looper.
• Stitch type: 512,514 & 515 (401+503)
• Best for: Medium and heavy weight.
• Applications: Suitable for sewing woven and knitted fabrics even
in areas of stress.
• Poor stretch hence not used in knitted garments.
• Suitable for sewing blouses, shirts, skirts, dresses, pants, lingerie,
action wear, swimwear, and even sleepwear.
• Can be converted to both two and three thread overlock
Four Thread Overedge
Cont.
• 5- Thread Overlock
• 2- needle and 3- looper.
• The left needle and lower looper form a 2-thread chain stitch
• Stitch Type: 516(401+504).
• Best for: Heavy weight materials.
• Applications: Seaming woven and knits.
• Safety Stitch.
• Side seam of trouser.
Four Thread Overedge
Balancing of Stitches
• Balanced Stitch

• Unbalanced stitch
Parts and function
1. Balance wheel
2. Needle thread tension
guide
3. Upper looper tension guide
4. Lower looper tension guide
5. Thread guide bar
6. Front or looper cover
7. Side cover and cloth plate
8. Needle cover
9. Side cover opening release
10. Cutting blade
11. Oil window
12. Head
Cont.
• 1. Balance wheel
Provides the drive mechanism for the machine motor and
controls the position of the needle and loopers.
• 2. Needle thread tension guide
Regulates the needle tension.
• 3. Upper looper tension guide
Regulates the upper looper tension.
• 4. Lower looper tension guide
Regulates the lower looper tension.
• 5. Thread guide bar
Guides the needle and looper threads.
• 6. Front or looper cover
Covers and provides access to the threading chart, the two
loopers and their thread guides.
Cont.
• 7. Side cover and cloth plate
Covers lower mechanisms and provides a surface for the fabric to slide
over.
• 8. Needle cover
A safety device that covers the needle in case of breakage.
• 9. Side cover opening release
Releases the side cover / cloth plate.
• 10. Cutting blade
There are two cutting blades: one is stationary and one moves as the
machine sews, creating a scissor action to trim the edge of the fabric
before the overlocking stitch neatens the edge of the fabric.
• 11. Oil window
Lubrication warning system that indicates the oil is being distributed to
the moving parts of the machine.
• 12. Head
Houses all the mechanisms of the overlocker.
Cont.

1. Presser foot adjuster/regulator

2. Throat plate
3. Swing out presser foot
4. Needle clamp/bar
5. Feed dog
6. Presser foot release
7. Needle cover
Cont.
• 1. Presser foot adjuster/regulator
Controls the pressure of the presser foot on various thicknesses of fabric.
• 2. Throat plate
Allows the needle to travel through the fabric so that the needle thread
picks up the threads from the loopers to form the machine stitch.
• 3. Swing out presser foot
Holds the fabric in place.
• 4. Needle clamp/bar
Moves the needle up and down as well as holding the needle in place.
• 5. Feed dog
Is the toothed metal machine part found under the needle/foot that helps
move the fabric through when stitching.
• 6. Presser foot release
Releases the presser foot so that it can swing out.
• 7. Needle cover
A safety device that covers the needle in case of breakage.
Knife mechanism
• The knife must be sharp enough to cut the materials.
• Adjustment of the position to the materials trimming knife.
• There are two types of knife used in overlock machine.
• Upper knife
• Lower knife
 Older
Modern Knives
model
model
Throat plate
• A sewing machine throat plate has holes and/or slots for the needle
to pass through as it moves up and down.
• Allows the sewing machine feed dogs to emerge from below to grip
the fabric and help move it forward.
Location of the
auxiliary feed dog
teeth
Feed dog
groove Needle
entry

Location of a
Throat plate cloth cutting
slot knife

1- Needle overlock throat

plate
Needles
• Needle used: DCX1, DCX27, DOX5
• SHANK diameter of a needle must be minimum 2.02mm.
• BUTT TO EYELET : the length is fixed even when thickness of
needle varies.
• They feature a sharp point that is suitable for all fabrics
Looper
• Loopers serve to create thread loops that pass from the
needle thread to the edges of the fabric so that the edges of
the fabric are contained within the seam.
• TYPE OF LOOPER: blind looper and eyed looper (only used in
overlock)
• Stitch type 503 : 1 looper
• Stitch type 504 : 2 loopers
• Stitch type 505 : 2 loopers
• Stitch type 512 : 2 loopers
• Stitch type 514 : 2 loopers
• Stitch type 515 : 2 loopers
• Stitch type 516 : 3 loopers
Feeding system
• Differential drop feed:
• It utilizes two independently driven feed dogs. The stroke of
each feed dog can be adjusted separately.
• If the stroke of the front feed dog is greater, then the fabric
may be gather as it is sewn.
• If the rear feed dog has the greater stroke, then the fabric may
be stretched to provide a more extensible seam.
• Differential feed regulator, which adjust the rate at which the
material is fed under the foot
Cont.