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Chapter 5-Basic Hand Stitches

The document outlines various hand stitches, categorizing them into temporary and permanent stitches. Temporary stitches include tacking methods such as even, uneven, diagonal, and tailor's tacking, while permanent stitches include running stitch, back stitch, overcast stitch, buttonhole stitch, and hemming. Additionally, it briefly describes machine stitches like lock stitch and overlock stitch, highlighting their uses and techniques.

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70 views14 pages

Chapter 5-Basic Hand Stitches

The document outlines various hand stitches, categorizing them into temporary and permanent stitches. Temporary stitches include tacking methods such as even, uneven, diagonal, and tailor's tacking, while permanent stitches include running stitch, back stitch, overcast stitch, buttonhole stitch, and hemming. Additionally, it briefly describes machine stitches like lock stitch and overlock stitch, highlighting their uses and techniques.

Uploaded by

sanashareef1602
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as PPTX, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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BASIC HAND STITCHES

TEMPORARY STITCHES
• TEMPORARY STITCHES:
Tacking or basting is a
temporary stitch used for
1. Even tacking
holding two or more layers
of fabric together before a 2. Uneven tacking
permanent stitch in made. 3. Diagonal tacking
4. Tailor's tacking
Usually the stitch is worked
from right to left, starting
with a knot in a contrasting
color thread, so that it can
be easily removed. There
are several types of tacking
stitches, four of them are
1. Even Tacking :

Use a thin needle and start


the stitch with a knot. The
stitches are of equal length
on both sides of the
material. Many number of
longer stitches can be done
at a time. This is used for
tacking seams & other
details which must be held
securely.
2.UN EVEN TACKING
This is used to mark or to hold
fabrics together, only
where there is no strain on the
stitches. Use this type of
basting, as the guideline on
the upper side of the fabric
is at least twice than that on
the underside of the fabric.
Make a long stitch, about ½
inch on one side of the
fabric and then a short stitch
¼ inch on the other side
of the fabric
3.DIAGONAL TACKING
This is used to hold two
pieces of fabric together
when more than one row of
tacking is required. For
example,
when you are attaching
interfacing to a collar or
mounting a fabric on to an
underlining, etc. It may be
done vertically or
horizontally
4.TAILOR’S TACKING
Start tacking using double thread of
contrasting color, so that they can be
easily seen. Tack through double layer of
fabric along the seam lines using even
stitches of length apart, leave them as
loop without pulling it tight. After
completing, raise the upper layer of fabric
slightly and clip the thread between the
layers. So that the thread tuft, will remain
on both the layers of fabric and remain as
a guide line. This is especially used for
marking details between patterns such as
dart markings and pleat markings.
PERMANENT STITCHES
1.RUNNING STITCH
This is the simplest form of hand stitch which
is used mainly for gathering and shirring
fabrics. When it is used for both gathering and
shirring, make sure that enough thread should
be left to make an unbroken line of stitches. It
is similar to the even basting, but the stitches
are much smaller. The stitches should be
straight, fine and evenly spaced and mostly
about Fig. 3.1: Even basting Fig. 3.2: Uneven
basting Fig. 3.3: Diagonal basting Fig. 3.4: Slip
basting Basics of Garment Construction 75
1/16 inch to ⅛ inch in length.
2. BACK STITCH
It is considered to be very
strong and is many a times
used as a substitute for
machine stitching. It is
mainly applied when extra
strength is needed.
3. OVERCAST /
OVERSEWING
It is used to finish seam edges
on fabrics which fray
easily. To carry out the stitch,
hold the fabric with the
edge to be worked away from
the worker. Insert the
needle ⅛ to ¼ inch from the
edge, and bring the thread
over the edge of the fabric.
Make the next stitch ¼ inch
further on.
4.BUTTON HOLE
This stitch is worked with the
needle pointing towards you, and
the fabric edge away from you.
To carry out the
stitch, insert the needle in the
right side of the edge of the
buttonhole.
Bring it out ⅛ inch below. Loop
the thread hanging from the eye
of the needle from right to left
under the point of the needle and
draw the
needle upwards to knot the
thread at the buttonhole edge.
5.HEMMING
It is used for hems on medium
weight or lightweight
fabrics. It is mainly used to
fasten a raw edge which
should be turned in or to
flatten a seam. It appears as
small slanting stitches on the
wrong side of the fabric.
The stitch size will depend on
the fabric. The thread
should not be pulled taut or
the fabric will pucker
MACHINE STITCHES
1.LOCK STITCH
• A lockstitch is the most common mechanical
stitch made by a sewing machine. The term
"single needle stitching", often found on dress
shirt labels, refers to lockstitch.
• The lockstitch uses two threads, an upper and a
lower. Lockstitch is named because the two
threads, upper and lower, "lock" (entwine)
together in the hole in the fabric which they pass
through. The upper thread runs from a spool kept
on a spindle on top of or next to the machine,
through a tension mechanism, through the take-
up arm, and finally through the hole in the
needle. Meanwhile, the lower thread is wound
onto a bobbin, which is inserted into a case in the
lower section of the machine below the material
2.OVERLOCK STITCH
An overlock is a kind of stitch that sews over
the edge of one or two pieces of cloth for
edging, hemming, or seaming. Usually an
overlock sewing machine will cut the edges
of the cloth as they are fed through (such
machines being called sergers in North
America), though some are made without
cutters. The inclusion of automated cutters
allows overlock machines to create finished
seams easily and quickly. An overlock
sewing machine differs from a lockstitch
sewing machine in that it uses loopers fed by
multiple thread cones rather than a bobbin.
Loopers serve to create thread loops that pass
from the needle thread to the edges of the
fabric so that the edges of the fabric are
contained within the seam.

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