TonyTheTiger
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Round 1 of Picture of the Year 2023 voting is open!
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Dear Wikimedian,
Wikimedia Commons is happy to announce that the 2023 Picture of the Year competition is now open. This year will be the eighteenth edition of the annual Wikimedia Commons photo competition, which recognizes exceptional contributions by users on Wikimedia Commons. Wikimedia users are invited to vote for their favorite images featured on Commons during the last year (2023) to produce a single Picture of the Year.
Hundreds of images that have been rated Featured Pictures by the international Wikimedia Commons community in the past year are all entered in this competition. These images include professional animal and plant shots, breathtaking panoramas and skylines, restorations of historical images, photographs portraying the world's best architecture, impressive human portraits, and so much more.
For your convenience, we have sorted the images into topical categories. Two rounds of voting will be held: In the first round, you may vote for as many images as you like. The top 30 overall and top 5% of most popular images in each category will continue to the final. In the final round, you may vote for just three images to become the Picture of the Year.
Round 1 will end on UTC.
Thanks,
the Wikimedia Commons Picture of the Year committee
You are receiving this message because you voted in the 2022 Picture of the Year contest.
MediaWiki message delivery (talk) 17:05, 1 October 2024 (UTC)
Round 2 of Picture of the Year 2023 voting is open!
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Read this message in your language
Dear Wikimedian,
You are receiving this message because we noticed that you previously voted in the Picture of the Year contest. Wikimedia users are invited to vote for their favorite images featured on Commons during the last year (2023) to produce a single Picture of the Year.
Hundreds of images that have been rated Featured Pictures by the international Wikimedia Commons community in the past year were entered in this competition. These images include professional animal and plant shots, breathtaking panoramas and skylines, restorations of historical images, photographs portraying the world's best architecture, impressive human portraits, and so much more.
In this second and final round, you may vote for a maximum of three images. The image with the most votes will become the Picture of the Year 2023.
Round 2 will end at UTC.
If you have already voted for Round 2, please ignore this message.
Thanks,
the Wikimedia Commons Picture of the Year committee
MediaWiki message delivery (talk) 17:15, 16 October 2024 (UTC)
Quality image
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Your image has been reviewed and promoted
Congratulations! 20240920 53rd Street Hyde Park Chicago near equinox stacked rotated and recropped 4x3.jpg, which was produced by you, was reviewed and has now been promoted to Quality Image status. If you would like to nominate another image, please do so at Quality images candidates. We also invite you to take part in the categorization of recently promoted quality images.
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- Tony, the bot got confused and notified me instead. Thanks for posting the picture and for being willing to try something difficult. Please keep up the good work. Acroterion (talk) 12:19, 24 October 2024 (UTC)
- I think you've mainly concentrated on image review for enwiki; Commons is a little different. For one thing, it's rather, erm, Germanic in process and content. There's a lot of pixel-peeping, and a certain roteness to the processes and the kinds of images that get favored. I try to push the boundaries of that now and then, with varying success. This is most apparent in FP nominations, where there's a pretty narrowly-defined recipe for promotion. Acroterion (talk) 13:15, 24 October 2024 (UTC)
- User:Acroterion, How does that impact Category:Quality images by user
- Most of those "by user" categories are things you'd need to add yourself to manually - there's no automated tracking or attribution. I've never bothered for myself. Acroterion (talk) 18:55, 24 October 2024 (UTC)
- User:Acroterion are you familiar with the Commons:Valued image process. I have nominated and renominated Commons:Valued image candidates/20161005 Broadway Hollywood Building from Hollywood and Vine (2).jpg without any comment. Do you have any advice?-TonyTheTiger (talk) 20:04, 24 October 2024 (UTC)
- BTW, If the w:2024 World Series goes at least 6 games, I will use some miles and go out to LA. I am thinking about redoing the w:Broadway Hollywood Building with an attempt at w:Focus stacking to get the near and far all in sharp focus.-TonyTheTiger (talk) 20:19, 24 October 2024 (UTC)
- I find the VI process inscrutable, it seems to hinge on very narrow use and definitional parameters that I don't have much patience for, so I've only done it a couple of times. The reviewers aren't very responsive, there seems to be little traffic there.
- You can get tickets to the World Series on short notice?
- User:Acroterion, Tix will cost $ on 2ndary market like stubhub or seat geek. I've got miles for a free ticket and my sister has a guest room for free accommodations. -TonyTheTiger (talk) 20:53, 24 October 2024 (UTC)
- It looks like time of day (and maybe season) would be critical for the Broadway Hollywood Building. A tilt-shift lens would also help, software perspective correction starts to distort pixels sometimes. Acroterion (talk) 20:41, 24 October 2024 (UTC)
- User:Acroterion, I don't have tilt-shift lens and would not know how to use one. I have a new 28mm-70mm F 2.0 lens that is suppose to arrive tomorrow. Most of my glass is F4. However, I have been getting a lot of night shooting requests on Thumbtack and feel capturing 4x more light with an F2 would make me more marketable. It won't be wide enough to recreate this shot though. So, I will be using my 10mm-20mm F4.0 lens. I have been experimenting in the neighborhood with focus stacking and feel this is the ideal subject with the near stars and far building. I might be able to get it up to QI or FP quality level.-TonyTheTiger (talk) 20:53, 24 October 2024 (UTC)
- I have almost all F4, for things that don't move much it's fine. I have a 24mm TS lens, which is fiddly and manual, but when it works it's magic. Most architectural photographers use one, since it saves time in post. It doesn't solve all issues of proportion - you can get an image that looks very top-heavy if you have the wrong angle. The shift function is what I need it for, to correct vertical perspective, I've never bothered with the tilt function (though someone who's adept would use it to get the foreground stars in focus too). Acroterion (talk) 21:23, 24 October 2024 (UTC)
- User:Acroterion, I don't have tilt-shift lens and would not know how to use one. I have a new 28mm-70mm F 2.0 lens that is suppose to arrive tomorrow. Most of my glass is F4. However, I have been getting a lot of night shooting requests on Thumbtack and feel capturing 4x more light with an F2 would make me more marketable. It won't be wide enough to recreate this shot though. So, I will be using my 10mm-20mm F4.0 lens. I have been experimenting in the neighborhood with focus stacking and feel this is the ideal subject with the near stars and far building. I might be able to get it up to QI or FP quality level.-TonyTheTiger (talk) 20:53, 24 October 2024 (UTC)
- Most of those "by user" categories are things you'd need to add yourself to manually - there's no automated tracking or attribution. I've never bothered for myself. Acroterion (talk) 18:55, 24 October 2024 (UTC)
- User:Acroterion, How does that impact Category:Quality images by user
- I am thinking about the time of day to retake the w:Broadway Hollywood Building. There is the shadow issue. Getting up at sunrise when there might be less traffic, would have more shadows. The more I wait for the shadow to be less of an issue, the more the sky will be blown out, I think. At some point, I also want to get the back view of that building at night with its iconic lit sign. Not sure if it will be this trip.-TonyTheTiger (talk) 21:55, 24 October 2024 (UTC)
- Circular polarizing filter for sky? Acroterion (talk) 23:47, 24 October 2024 (UTC)
- Or a graduated neutral density filter, though it's not ideal for that composition. Acroterion (talk) 23:49, 24 October 2024 (UTC)
- I have a 77mm variable neutral density filter that I could put on my 14mm-35mm F 4.0, which I guess could redo the original shot at 10mm with my crop sensored 7DM2 (16 mm). I haven't really experimented with it. Could I still focus stack with it on?-TonyTheTiger (talk) 04:26, 25 October 2024 (UTC)
- Don't see why not, the filter shouldn't make any difference. Do you mean focus stacking or exposure stacking? I'd only do focus stacking where depth of field is hard to control, although I'd consider it to get the stars in the foreground to be sharp (where a shift function would theoretically work too). I've only done focus stacking in controlled environments for macro photography, but exposure stacking is commonplace for things like the blue hour.
- A really dense ND filter would allow very long exposure that effectively edits out moving objects, if timed and exposed right (but wouldn't be so amenable to focus or exposure stacking because of the time involved and shifting light). Acroterion (talk) 13:54, 25 October 2024 (UTC)
- I am not familiar with the term exposure stacking. Is that the same as exposure bracketing and compositing, which is very different from focus stacking, to my understanding. As I understand it bracketing is generally done by modulating light with different settings. I usually use auto exposure bracketing (AEB), which in many shooting modes modulates shutter speeds, as a first priority, but then modulates ISO and aperture if you are stopped out. E.g. Suppose you have a 7 picture bracket in full stop increments from 3 to -3, but start at shutter speed 1/2000. Then at 2 stops one is at the minimum shutter speed of 1/8000 and the additional stop has to be achieved by modulating the ISO or aperture. Alternatively, one could choose to modulate light with ISO or aperture as the priority. Similarly, one could modulate light with flash exposure bracketing. These techniques are valuable when a setting has a wide dynamic range and needs different settings to enable the camera to capture light information of the scene. E.g., my recent QI, I was shooting directly into the sun, the brightest known light source. The amount of exposure time to inform the sensors of the sun element of the setting is far shorter than other elements of the setting that are in the shadows of this source, such as the leaves that you feel are very dark. By using software to assess the information from each pixel in various bracket sequence elements, one could take the best of various pixels to produce an image that has well exposed dark areas without overexposing the well-lit areas. I could recomposite the shot to brighten the leaves. However, with additional information the perfection of the w:sunburst is diminished and the center of the sunburst becomes more mishapen. From the +3 to -3 7 shot sequence combining the +1 and +3 elements brightened the dark areas of the +1 scene while retaining the form of the in the free Canon software that I used. Focus stacking, is a different technique unrelated to capturing light. My understanding of focus stacking is that it is a technique used to improve depth of field of a particular scene by moving the plane of focus scene incrementally in a sequence and combining all elements of the scene with information from a shot in the sequence where the plane of focus is near that part of the scene. E.g., in the Broadway Hollywood Building photo that I want to do, I could set the camera to focus on the near by stars and then sequentially move the plane of focus towards the building and beyond. Then I could combine parts of the scene from whichever part of the sequence has a plane of focus near it. I see a lot of focus stacking in the Picture of the Year contest. I have not noticed bracketing very much. This is based on time spent on YouTube and pestering the Canon Professional Service phone support who will talk with a member 24/7. I am still a grasshopper with both techniques. I have been bracketing since August and stacking since September.-TonyTheTiger (talk) 04:04, 26 October 2024 (UTC)
- Yes, essentially it is compositing a set of bracketed images so you have a high dynamic range (HDR) image. Photoshop has a process for that, and it's possible to do it in-camera with an R5, but that yields a JPG rather than a RAW image. As for combining focus and exposure stacking, that's not something I've tried. Adobe has a tutorial here [1] Acroterion (talk) 17:04, 26 October 2024 (UTC)
- I have been back and forth with Canon Professional Services in the past regarding whether it was possible to set up the camera to focus stack brackets so that each bracket stop-level element had the range of focal planes and they could not instruct me how to do that in my R5M2. Neither as individual images for post or as an incamera composite/stack. I have been told by CPS that you can not composite brackets and focus stack simultaneously. What are you talking about?-TonyTheTiger (talk) 03:56, 27 October 2024 (UTC)
- I was describing what you are in fact trying to do, both exposure and focus compositing in one. I think the only way to accomplish what you're describing is to do the focus manipulation optically and the exposure with exposure adjustment and compositing. In other words, using a tilt-shift lens to correct perspective (shift) and get foreground clarity (tilt), and then bracketing and compositing that composition. While I've never done more than experiment with the tilt function of my TS lens, tilt is used by landscape photographers and in-studio product photographers to get a sharp foreground, like the stars in the sidewalk. It's simple to adjust the focal plane with a large-format bellows-style view camera, where the offset and angle of the lens are manipulated on the spot; Ansel Adams didn't necessarily keep his lens aligned and centered on the plate. It's not intuitive at all, but there's a reason people still do large-format images with view cameras. Acroterion (talk) 13:30, 27 October 2024 (UTC)
- Look at en:Tilt–shift photography, which is a little hard to understand, but the diagrams are helpful, particularly the examples where tilt is used to extend the focal range. Once you've used it a couple of times, it's easier to get an intuitive sense of what can be done. I'd recommend that you rent a TS lens to try it out. Acroterion (talk) 13:37, 27 October 2024 (UTC)
- I have been back and forth with Canon Professional Services in the past regarding whether it was possible to set up the camera to focus stack brackets so that each bracket stop-level element had the range of focal planes and they could not instruct me how to do that in my R5M2. Neither as individual images for post or as an incamera composite/stack. I have been told by CPS that you can not composite brackets and focus stack simultaneously. What are you talking about?-TonyTheTiger (talk) 03:56, 27 October 2024 (UTC)
- Also, this on enwiki en:Multi-exposure HDR capture Acroterion (talk) 17:08, 26 October 2024 (UTC)
- Yes, essentially it is compositing a set of bracketed images so you have a high dynamic range (HDR) image. Photoshop has a process for that, and it's possible to do it in-camera with an R5, but that yields a JPG rather than a RAW image. As for combining focus and exposure stacking, that's not something I've tried. Adobe has a tutorial here [1] Acroterion (talk) 17:04, 26 October 2024 (UTC)
- I am not familiar with the term exposure stacking. Is that the same as exposure bracketing and compositing, which is very different from focus stacking, to my understanding. As I understand it bracketing is generally done by modulating light with different settings. I usually use auto exposure bracketing (AEB), which in many shooting modes modulates shutter speeds, as a first priority, but then modulates ISO and aperture if you are stopped out. E.g. Suppose you have a 7 picture bracket in full stop increments from 3 to -3, but start at shutter speed 1/2000. Then at 2 stops one is at the minimum shutter speed of 1/8000 and the additional stop has to be achieved by modulating the ISO or aperture. Alternatively, one could choose to modulate light with ISO or aperture as the priority. Similarly, one could modulate light with flash exposure bracketing. These techniques are valuable when a setting has a wide dynamic range and needs different settings to enable the camera to capture light information of the scene. E.g., my recent QI, I was shooting directly into the sun, the brightest known light source. The amount of exposure time to inform the sensors of the sun element of the setting is far shorter than other elements of the setting that are in the shadows of this source, such as the leaves that you feel are very dark. By using software to assess the information from each pixel in various bracket sequence elements, one could take the best of various pixels to produce an image that has well exposed dark areas without overexposing the well-lit areas. I could recomposite the shot to brighten the leaves. However, with additional information the perfection of the w:sunburst is diminished and the center of the sunburst becomes more mishapen. From the +3 to -3 7 shot sequence combining the +1 and +3 elements brightened the dark areas of the +1 scene while retaining the form of the in the free Canon software that I used. Focus stacking, is a different technique unrelated to capturing light. My understanding of focus stacking is that it is a technique used to improve depth of field of a particular scene by moving the plane of focus scene incrementally in a sequence and combining all elements of the scene with information from a shot in the sequence where the plane of focus is near that part of the scene. E.g., in the Broadway Hollywood Building photo that I want to do, I could set the camera to focus on the near by stars and then sequentially move the plane of focus towards the building and beyond. Then I could combine parts of the scene from whichever part of the sequence has a plane of focus near it. I see a lot of focus stacking in the Picture of the Year contest. I have not noticed bracketing very much. This is based on time spent on YouTube and pestering the Canon Professional Service phone support who will talk with a member 24/7. I am still a grasshopper with both techniques. I have been bracketing since August and stacking since September.-TonyTheTiger (talk) 04:04, 26 October 2024 (UTC)
- I have a 77mm variable neutral density filter that I could put on my 14mm-35mm F 4.0, which I guess could redo the original shot at 10mm with my crop sensored 7DM2 (16 mm). I haven't really experimented with it. Could I still focus stack with it on?-TonyTheTiger (talk) 04:26, 25 October 2024 (UTC)
- P.S., I don't think I could redo this shot with 24mm. My original is a crop sensored 10mm (16mm on Full Frame).-TonyTheTiger (talk) 22:01, 24 October 2024 (UTC)