9

Patterning in Weft Knitting

Waqas Ashraf

CONTENTS
9.1 Patterning in Weft Knitting....................................................................... 199
9.1.1 Principle Stitches in Weft Knitting............................................... 199
9.1.1.1 Knit Stitch.......................................................................... 200
9.1.1.2 Tuck Stitch......................................................................... 200
9.1.1.3 Miss or Float Stitch........................................................... 200
9.1.2 Notations in Weft Knitting............................................................ 201
9.1.2.1 Verbal Notation................................................................ 201
9.1.2.2 Graphical Notation.......................................................... 201
9.1.2.3 Symbolic Notation............................................................ 202
9.1.2.4 Diagrammatic Notation.................................................. 202
9.1.2.5 Cam Repeat Notation...................................................... 202
9.1.2.6 Needle Repeat Notation.................................................. 204
9.1.3 Single Jersey and Its Derivatives.................................................. 204
9.1.3.1 Structure with One-Needle Type.................................. 204
9.1.3.2 Structure with Two-Needle Type.................................. 205
9.1.3.3 Fleece Structures.............................................................. 208
9.1.4 Rib and Its Derivatives................................................................... 211
9.1.4.1 Structure with One-Needle Type.................................. 211
9.1.4.2 Structure with Two-Needle Type.................................. 216
9.1.4.3 Drop Needle Design........................................................ 220
9.1.5 Interlock and Its Derivatives......................................................... 221
9.1.5.1 Structure with Two-Needle Type.................................. 221

9.1  Patterning in Weft Knitting Q1

9.1.1  Principle Stitches in Weft Knitting
There are mainly four basic types of stitches in weft knitting, namely knit,
tuck, purl, and miss or float. Mostly, weft knitted fabrics and their deriva-
tives are based on the combination of these stitches.

199

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 200 Structural Textile Design

Knit face Knit back Tuck face Tuck back Miss face Miss back

FIGURE 9.1
Basic weft knitting stitches pattern.

9.1.1.1  Knit Stitch

This knit stitch is formed when the needle is raised enough to engage new
yarn in the hook by the camming action and old loop is cleared. The techni-
cal back side of the knit stitch is called a purl stitch. The knit patterns from
face and back sides are shown in Figure 9.1. The clearing position of knit
stitch is shown in Figure 9.2a.

9.1.1.2  Tuck Stitch

Tuck stitch is formed when needle is raised to get new yarn but not enough
to clear the previous formed old loop. The needle then holds two loops when
it descends as shown in Figure 9.2b. The needle can hold up to four loops, so
it has to clear the previous held old loops in a wale. The fabric gets thicker
with tuck stitch as compared to knit stitches due to the accumulation of yarn
when needle clears all the held old loops at knit stitch. The structure becomes
more open and permeable to air than knit stitches. It can also be used to get
different color effects in fabric. The tuck stitch patterns from face and back
sides are shown in Figure 9.1.

9.1.1.3  Miss or Float Stitch

When the needle does not move upward to clear the old loop and also
does not take the new yarn that is presented to it, then miss or float stitch

(a) (b) (c)

Old loop
Old loop
Cleaning
position Old
loop
Feeding
position

FIGURE 9.2
Latch needle position for basic stitches.

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 Patterning in Weft Knitting 201

is formed. Needle is not activated in miss stitch. Moreover, it holds the old
loop as shown in Figure 9.2c. Float stitch on the successive needles produces
longer float of yarn, which may cause the problem of snagging. The float is
preferably used where we need to hide some colors from the technical face
of the fabric. The hidden yarn floats at the back side of the fabric as shown in
Figure 9.1. The yarn gets straighter in float stitch construction, so the extensi-
bility decreases as compared to tuck and knit stitches.

9.1.2  Notations in Weft Knitting

There are four basic types of notation that represent the design of weft knit-
ted structure:

1. Verbal notation
2. Graphical notation
3. Symbolic notation
4. Diagrammatic notation

9.1.2.1  Verbal Notation

In this technique of notation, the design is represented verbally, for example,
the design has two courses repeat and has a combination of knit and tuck
stitches at alternate positions. This notation technique does not give enough
information about the design. This technique is not feasible for complex
structures.

9.1.2.2  Graphical Notation

In this technique, the design is represented graphically by line diagram.
This technique gives the best idea of the design structures and stitch pattern.
Representing the design using this technique is a time-consuming process,
and skill may be required if the design is constructed by means of any soft-
ware. The graphical representations of plain jersey and Rib 1 × 1 are given
in Figure 9.3.

Knit face Knit back Rib 1×1 face Rib 1×1 back

FIGURE 9.3
Graphical representation of plain jersey and rib structure.

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 202 Structural Textile Design

9.1.2.3  Symbolic Notation

In this technique, the individual stitch is repeated by columns and rows pat-
tern. The rows represent the individual course, and the columns represent
Q2 the wales. To represent the type of stitches, following symbols are used:

Knit =  X
Tuck =  .

Miss = 
Purl =  O

The symbolic notations of single jersey lapique and Rib 1 × 1 are shown in
Figure 9.4. The w and c represent the wales and courses, respectively.

9.1.2.4  Diagrammatic Notation

This technique to represent the design is easy to understand, and it gives
enough information about the design. This technique is also helpful to
understand the double-knit structure. Each yarn in this technique represents
the individual stitch either on cylinder side or on dial side. The diagram-
matic notations of different designs are shown in Figure 9.5.
The stitch type is represented in the following way:

A complete circle facing down represents the knit stitch.

A complete circle facing up represents the purl stitch.
A half circle or v-type notation shows the tuck stitch.
A float or straight line represents the miss of float stitch

9.1.2.5  Cam Repeat Notation

The arrangement of cams in cam track system is very important to achieve
the required design of the fabric. There are three basic types of stitches in

W1 W2 W3 W4 W1 W2 W3 W4 W1 W2 W3 W4
C1 X X X X C1 X X X X C1 X O X O

C2 X X X X C2 X • X • C2 X O X O

C3 X X X X C3 X X X X C3 X O X O

C4 X X X X C4 • X • X C4 X O X O

Single jersey Lapique Rib 1×1

FIGURE 9.4
Symbolic representation of desing.

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 Patterning in Weft Knitting 203

Dial
1 Cylinder Dial

2 1 1

Cylinder
Cylinder
Inerlock Rib 1×1 Jersey

FIGURE 9.5
Diagrammatic representation of basic weft knit structure.

weft knitting, so accordingly three different cams are placed in cam box.
There are two things that need to be understood about cam notation. The
first is feeders, and the second is tracks. The each feeder represents the indi-
vidual course, and tracks give the option to use different types of stitches
within the same course. On single-knit machine, the cams are placed on cyl- Q3
inder side only, whereas the cam repeats for both dial and cylinder sides are
considered to understand the design produced on interlock and rib machine.
Figure 9.6 shows the actual image of cams of single-knit machine.
There are three notations used to represent the design:

Knit = ∧
Tuck = 
Miss = ─

FIGURE 9.6
Cam track of single knit structure.

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 204 Structural Textile Design

9.1.2.6  Needle Repeat Notation

The needle shows how the needles are placed inside tricks of the dial and
cylinder sides. The needle repeat shows the needle number and tracks. Each
needle represents the respective wale in the fabric. The needle has different
butt positions for different tracks. From the top, the first track needle has
the minimum hook-to-butt distance, and the needle for lower track has the
Q4 maximum hook-to-butt distance. If there are two or more tracks used on
machine, the needles of different tracks are placed in dial or cylinder side
according to the design repeat.

Needle active = |
Needle drop = ×

9.1.3  Single Jersey and Its Derivatives

9.1.3.1  Structure with One-Needle Type
These are the structures that can be produced with minimum one-needle type.
Each course has only one type of stitches. Plain jersey fabric structure is one
of the examples of single-needle-type design. This fabric can be produced on
a minimum of one track. The design and cam repeat are shown in Figure 9.7.
Needle repeats of single-needle type of single-knit design are shown in
Figure 9.8.

Feeders

All knit stitches

1 2
1

Cylinder Tracks 1 ^ ^

FIGURE 9.7
Design and cam repeat of single jersey.

Needles

1 2

Cylinder Tracks 1 | |

FIGURE 9.8
Needle repeat of single-needle-type single knit design.

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 Patterning in Weft Knitting 205

Needles

1 2

1 |

Tracks
Cylinder
2 |

FIGURE 9.9
Needle repeat of two-needle-type single knit design.

This design can be produced on maximum tracks available on machine in

cam track lifting mechanism.

9.1.3.2  Structure with Two-Needle Type

These are the structures that require a minimum of two tracks to produce on
machine. The needle arrangement will be as shown in Figure 9.9.

9.1.3.2.1  Cross Miss

This design has two courses repeat. This derivative is formed by the alterna-
tive position of knit and miss stitches. The cam repeat and cross miss design
are shown in Figure 9.10.
Design Pattern:

Course 1: has knit stitches on odd needles only.

Course 2: has knit stitches on even needles only.

9.1.3.2.2  Plain Pique

This design has two courses repeat. The design has a combination of tuck
and knit stitches. The cam repeat and design of plain pique are shown in
Figure 9.11.

Feeders

1 2
Feeder 1
1
1 ^
Tracks

Cylinder
2
Feeder 2 2 ^

FIGURE 9.10
Cam repeat and design of cross miss.

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 206 Structural Textile Design

Feeders
Tuck stitch
1 2
1
1 ^

Tracks
Cylinder
2
2 ^

FIGURE 9.11
Cam repeat and design of plain pique.

Design Pattern:

Course 1: has knit stitches on odd needles with tuck stitches on even
needles.
Course 2: has knit stitches on even needles with tuck stitches on odd
needles.

9.1.3.2.3 Lapique
This design has four courses repeat formed by a combination of knit and
tuck stitches. The cam arrangement and design of lapique are shown in
Figure 9.12.
Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches.

Course 2: has knit stitches on odd needles with tuck stitches on even
needles.
Course 3: same as Course 1.
Course 4: has knit stitches on even needles with tuck stitches on odd
needles.

Feeders
1
Courses 2 and 4 have alternative
tuck and knit stitch positions 1 2 3 4
2

3 1 ^ ^ ^
Tracks

Cylinder
2 ^ ^ ^
4

FIGURE 9.12
Cam repeat and design of lapique.

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 Patterning in Weft Knitting 207

Feeders

Two courses repeat 1 2

1
1 ^ ^

Tracks
Cylinder
2
2 ^

FIGURE 9.13
Cam repeat and design of longitudinal tuck stripe.

9.1.3.2.4  Longitudinal Tuck Stripe

This design has two courses repeat formed by a combination of knit and tuck
stitches. The cam arrangement and design are shown in Figure 9.13.
Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches.

Course 2: has knit stitches on odd needles with tuck stitches on even
needles.

9.1.3.2.5  Longitudinal 1 × 1 Cross Tuck

This design has six courses repeat formed by a combination of knit and tuck
stitches. The cam arrangement and design are shown in Figure 9.14.
Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches.

Course 2: has knit stitches on odd needles with tuck stitches on even
needles.

1
Feeders
2 Combination of tuck
and miss stitches
1 2 3 4 5 6
3

4
1 ^ ^ ^ ^
Tracks

Cylinder

5
2 ^ ^ ^ ^

FIGURE 9.14
Cam repeat and design of longitudinal 1 × 1 cross tuck.

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 208 Structural Textile Design

Course 3: same as Course 2.

Course 4: same as Course 1.
Course 5: has knit stitches on even needles with tuck stitches on odd
needles.
Course 6: same as Course 5.

9.1.3.3  Fleece Structures

The fleece structure is formed by tucking the loop yarn with ground yarn
at selective position. This structure can be modified either by adopting the
different tucking positions of fleece yarn or by increasing the fleece yarn
courses in the structure repeat. Different fleece structure derivatives are
given in the following.

9.1.3.3.1 1 × 1 Fleece
The design has four courses repeat. The first and third courses represent the
ground yarn, while the second and fourth courses represent the fleece yarn.
The design has all types of stitches involved in this design. The cam arrange-
ment and design are shown in Figure 9.15.
Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches.

Course 2: has all the tuck stitches on odd needles only.
Course 3: has all the knit stitches.
Course 4: has all the tuck stitches on even needles only.

9.1.3.3.2 2 × 2 Fleece
The design has four courses repeat. The first and third courses represent the
ground yarn, while the second and fourth courses represent the fleece yarn.
The design has all types of stitches involved in this design. The cam arrange-
ment and design are shown in Figure 9.16.

1 Feeders

Miss stitches
2 1 2 3 4

3 1 ^ ^
Tracks

Cylinder
4
2 ^ ^

FIGURE 9.15
1 × 1 Fleece.

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 Patterning in Weft Knitting 209

Feeders

1
Two consecutive 1 2 3 4
miss stitches
2
1 ^ ^
3
2 ^ ^

Tracks
4
Cylinder 3 ^ ^

4 ^ ^

FIGURE 9.16
2 × 2 Fleece.

Design Repeat:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches.

Course 2: has a combination of two tuck and two float stitches, stated
with tuck stitches.
Course 3: has all the knit stitches.
Course 4: has a combination of two tuck and two float stitches, stated
with miss or float stitch.

9.1.3.3.3 3 × 1 Fleece
The design has four courses repeat. The first and third courses represent the
ground yarn, while the second and fourth courses represent the fleece yarn.
The design has all types of stitches involved in this design. The cam arrange-
ment and design are shown in Figure 9.17.
Design Repeat:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches.

Course 2: has a combination of one tuck and three float stitches, stated
with tuck stitches.
Course 3: same as Course 1.
Course 4: has a combination of one tuck and three float stitches, and
comes in a sequence of two miss, one tuck, and one miss stitches.

9.1.3.3.4  Double Fleece

The design has four courses repeat. The first and third courses represent the
ground yarn, while the second and fourth courses represent the fleece yarn.
The design has all types of stitches involved in this design. The cam arrange-
ment and design are shown in Figure 9.18.

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 210 Structural Textile Design

1 Feeders
Three consecutive
2 miss stitches 1 2 3 4

1 ^ ^
3
2 ^ ^

Tracks
4 Cylinder
3
^ ^
4
^ ^

FIGURE 9.17
3 × 1 Fleece.

Design Repeat:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches.

Course 2: has a combination of one tuck and three float stitches, stated
with a tuck stitch.
Course 3: has a combination of one tuck and three float stitches, stated
with two miss stitches.
Course 4: same as Course 1.
Course 5: has a combination of one tuck and three float stitches, started
with one miss stitch.
Course 6: has a combination of one tuck and three float stitches, started
with three miss stitches.

1 Feeders
Alternative tuck
2 1 2 3 4 5 6
positions

3 1 ^ ^
4
2 ^ ^
Tracks

5
Cylinder 3 ^ ^
6
4 ^ ^

FIGURE 9.18
Double fleece.

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9.1.4  Rib and Its Derivatives

9.1.4.1  Structure with One-Needle Type
9.1.4.1.1  Plain Rib
Description:
The plain rib is a very basic design of rib gating machine. This is formed
by all the knit stitches. The design has only one course repeat. This can be Q5
produced on a minimum of one feeder. The cam arrangement and design are
shown in Figure 9.19.
Needle arrangements for all the single-needle-type designs of rib fabric
are shown in Figure 9.20.

9.1.4.1.2  Alternative Half Milano

This structure repeat consists of totally four courses. There are two stitch
types, knit and miss, involved in this design. A minimum of one feeder
is required to produce this design. The cam arrangement and design are
shown in Figure 9.21.
Stitch Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches on both sides.

Course 2: has all the knit stitches on cylinder side and all the miss
stitches on dial side.
Course 3: same as Course 1.
Course 4: has all the knit stitches on dial side and miss of float stitches
on cylinder side. This course has reverse effect on Course 2.

Feeders

All knit stitches 1 2 3 4 5

Dial 1 ^ ^ ^ ^ ^
Tracks

1
Cylinder 1 ^ ^ ^ ^ ^

FIGURE 9.19
Pain rib design and its cam arrangement.

Feeders
1 2 3 4 5

Dial 1
Tracks

Cylinder 1

FIGURE 9.20
Needle arrangement for single-needle-type rib designs.

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 212 Structural Textile Design

1 Feeders

All miss stitches 1 2 3 4

2

Dial
1 ^ ^ ^

Tracks
3
Cylinder
1 ^ ^ ^
4

FIGURE 9.21
Alternative half-milano.

9.1.4.1.3 Cardigan
The design has only two courses repeat. This design is formed by the knit
and tuck stitches. The diagrammatic notation and cam repeat are shown in
Figure 9.22.
Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches on cylinder side and all the tuck
stitches on dial side.
Course 2: has all the tuck stitches on cylinder side and knit stitches on
dial side.

9.1.4.1.4  Double Cardigan

This structure has the repeat of four courses. This design has twice the courses
of cardigan design. The design and cam repeat are shown in Figure 9.23.
Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches on cylinder side and all the tuck
stitches on dial side.
Course 2: same as Course 1.
Course 3: has all the tuck stitches on cylinder side and knit stitches on
dial side.
Course 4: same as Course 3.

Feeders
All tuck stitches on dial
1 1 2

Dial 1 ^
Tracks

2
Cylinder 1 ^

FIGURE 9.22
Cardigan.

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 Patterning in Weft Knitting 213

1 Feeders
Same stitch pattern
1 2 3 4
2
Dial 1 ^ ^

Tracks
3
Cylinder 1 ^ ^
4

FIGURE 9.23
Double cardigan.

9.1.4.1.5  Double Half Cardigan

This design has extended repeat of half cardigan design. There are four
courses repeat in this design. The cam arrangement and design are shown
in Figure 9.24.
Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches both on dial and on cylinder sides.
Course 2: same as Course 1.
Course 3: has knit stitches on cylinder side and tuck stitches on dial
side.
Course 4: same as Course 3.

9.1.4.1.6  Half Cardigan

This pattern consists of two courses. This design is formed by a combina-
tion of knit and tuck stitches. The cam arrangement and design are shown
in Figure 9.25.
The cam repeat of this design in given in Q6
Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches.

Course 2: has all the knit stitches on cylinder side and tuck stitches on
dial side.

1 Feeders
Second and fourth courses are repition
of first and third courses, respectively 1 2 3 4
2
Dial 1 ^ ^
Tracks

3
Cylinder 1 ^ ^ ^ ^
4

FIGURE 9.24
Double half-cardigan.

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 214 Structural Textile Design

Feeders

All tuck stitches on dial needles 1 2

1
Dial 1 ^

Tracks
2
Cylinder 1 ^ ^

FIGURE 9.25
Half-cardigan.

9.1.4.1.7  Half Cardigan Double Sided

This design has formed by a little variation in cardigan design. The design
has four courses. First and third courses are the same. The second and fourth
courses are formed by the alternate positions of tuck and knit stitches. The
cam arrangement and design are shown in Figure 9.26.
Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches on both dial and cylinder sides.
Course 2: has all the knit stitches on cylinder side and tuck stitches on
dial side.
Course 3: same as Course 1.
Course 4: has all the knit stitches on dial side and tuck stitches on
­cylinder side.

9.1.4.1.8  Half Milano

This design has a repeat of two courses or feeders. This design is formed by
the knit and miss stitches. The cam arrangement and design are shown in
Figure 9.27.
Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches.

Course 2: has all the knit stitches on cylinder side and miss or float
stitches on dial side.

Feeders
1
1 2 3 4
2

Dial 1 ^ ^ ^
Tracks

3
Cylinder 1 ^ ^ ^
4 Cylinder needles have all tuck stitches

FIGURE 9.26
Half-cardigan double sided.

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Feeders
Dial and cylinder needles are placed at
1 alternative positions 1 2
Dial 1 ^ –

Tracks
2
Cylinder 1 ^ ^

FIGURE 9.27
Half-milano.

9.1.4.1.9  Milano Rib

This is an extended design of half milano design. The additional one course
is added in half milano design; thus, the design has totally three courses. The
cam arrangement and design are shown in Figure 9.28.
Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches both on dial and on cylinder sides.
Course 2: has all the knit stitches on dial side and miss stitches on
­cylinder side.
Course 3: has all the knit stitches on cylinder side and miss or float
stitches on dial side.

9.1.4.1.10  Rib Ripple

This design is formed by the repeat that consists of three courses. There Q7
are two stitch types in this design. Courses 2 and 3 are the same. The cam
arrangement and design are shown in Figure 9.29.
Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches both on dial and on cylinder sides.
Course 2: has all the knit stitches on cylinder side and miss or float
stitches on dial side.
Course 3: same as Course 2.

Feeders
All needles are working
1 1 2 3

Dial 1 ^ ^ –
Tracks

2
Cylinder 1 ^ – ^

FIGURE 9.28
Milano rib.

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 216 Structural Textile Design

Feeders
1
Miss cam represents all the miss 1 2 3
stitches on dial at Course 2

2 Dial 1 ^ – –

Tracks
Cylinder 1 ^ ^ ^
3

FIGURE 9.29
Rib ripple.

9.1.4.1.11  Ripple Cardigan

This design has a total of four courses repeat, and the last three courses are
the same and have a tuck and knit stitch effect on different faces on fabric.
The cam arrangement and design are shown in Figure 9.30.
Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches on both dial and cylinder sides.
Course 2: has all the tuck stitches on dial side and knit stitches on
­cylinder side.
Course 3: same as Course 2.
Course 4: same as Course 2.

9.1.4.2  Structure with Two-Needle Type

The derivative of rib design that has two different types of stitches in the
same course comes under this category. This design requires two tracks or
needle types to produce on machine. The cams are placed according to the
type of stitches in the respective course. The general configuration for needle
in these structures is given in needle repeat. On the cylinder side, the first
needle of Track 1 and the second needle of Track 2 are placed. The same
pattern is followed in dial side. The needle repeats are shown in Figure 9.31.
A few structures of the rib two-needle type are given below.

1 Feeders
Second, third, and fourth courses
are the same 1 2 3 4
2
Dial 1 ^
Tracks

3
Cylinder 1 ^ ^ ^ ^
4

FIGURE 9.30
Ripple cardigan.

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Needles

1 2 3 4

Dial 1

Tracks
Cylinder 1

FIGURE 9.31
Needle repeat of two-needle-type rib design and its derivatives.

9.1.4.2.1  Belgian Double Pique

This design has a repeat of six courses. The design is formed by the knit and
miss stitches. The cam arrangement and design are shown in Figure 9.32.
Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the miss or float stitches on cylinder side, and dial side
has knit stitches on even needles.
Course 2: has all the knit stitches on cylinder side, and dial side has knit
stitches on even needles only.
Course 3: same as Course 1.
Course 4: has all the miss or float stitches on cylinder side, and dial side
has knit stitches on odd needles.
Course 5: has all the knit stitches on cylinder side, and dial side has knit
stitches on odd needles only.
Course 6: same as Course 4.

1 Course 1 represented by Feeder 1

Feeders
2 Course 2 represented by Feeder 2 1 2 3 4 5 6

3 2 ^ ^ ^ – – –
Dial – – – ^ ^ ^
Tracks

1
4
Cylinder 1 – ^ – – ^ –
5 – – – –
2 ^ ^
6

FIGURE 9.32
Belgian double pique.

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 218 Structural Textile Design

Feeders
1
Knit and miss stitch 1 2 3 4
combination on dial
2 needles 2 ^ – – ^

Dial 1 – ^ – ^

Tracks
3
Cylinder 1 – ^ ^ –
4
2 – ^ – ^

FIGURE 9.33
Dutch double pique.

9.1.4.2.2  Dutch Double Pique

This design is formed by four feeders. The design is based on knit and miss
stitches. The cam arrangement and design are shown in Figure 9.33.
Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the miss or float stitches on cylinder side, and dial side
has knit stitches on even needles.
Course 2: has all the knit stitches on cylinder side, and dial side has knit
stitches on even needles only.
Course 3: has all the miss or float stitches on dial side, and cylinder side
has knit stitches on even needles only.
Course 4: has all the knit stitches on dial side, and cylinder side has knit
stitches on odd needles only.

9.1.4.2.3 Fillet
This design has a total of six courses. This design has all the three different
types of stitches. The cam arrangement and design are shown in Figure 9.34.

Tuck stitches
1 Feeders
2 1 2 3 4 5 6

3 2 ^ – – – ^

4 Dial 1 – – ^ ^ –
Tracks

5 Cylinder 1 ^ – – ^ – –

6 2 ^ – – ^ – –

FIGURE 9.34
Fillet.

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 Patterning in Weft Knitting 219

Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches on cylinder side, and dial side has
tuck stitches on even needles.
Course 2: has all the miss or float stitches on cylinder side, and dial side
has knit stitches on even needle only.
Course 3: has all the miss or float stitches on cylinder side, and dial side
has knit stitches on odd needles.
Course 4: has all the knit stitches on cylinder side, and dial side has
tuck stitches on odd needles.
Course 5: same as Course 3.
Course 6: same as Course 2.

9.1.4.2.4  Flemish Double Pique

The design has a total of eight courses. The design is formed by the knit and
miss stitches at different stitching positions of dial and cylinder sides. The
cam arrangement and design are shown in Figure 9.35.
Deign Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches on cylinder side, and dial side has knit
stitches on even needles only.
Course 2: has all the miss or float stitches on dial side, and cylinder side
has knit stitches on even needles only.
Course 3: has all the knit stitches on dial side, and cylinder side has knit
stitches on odd needles only.

1
Dial stitches
2 Cylinder stitches Feeders

3 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
2 ^ – ^ ^ – – ^ –
4 1 – – ^ – ^ – ^ ^
Dial
Tracks

5 Cylinder 1 ^ ^ – – ^ – ^ –
2 ^ – ^ – ^ ^ – –
6

FIGURE 9.35
Flemish double pique.

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 220 Structural Textile Design

Course 4: has all the miss or float stitches on cylinder side, and dial side
has knit stitches on even needles only.
Course 5: has all the knit stitches on cylinder side, and dial side has knit
stitches on odd needles only.
Course 6: has all the miss or float stitches on dial side, and cylinder side
has knit stitches on odd needles only.
Course 7: has all the knit stitches on dial side, and cylinder side has knit
stitches on even needles only.
Course 8: has all the miss or float stitches on cylinder side, and dial side
has knit stitches on odd needles only.
Q8 Cam Arrangement

9.1.4.3  Drop Needle Design

The drop needle design on circular rib machine can be produced by remov-
ing the selective needle from dial and cylinder sides. The most common rib
drop needle designs are Rib 2 × 1, Rib 2 × 2, Rib 3 × 2, etc. These designs give
different esthetics and functionalities to the fabric. The drop needle designs
are produced by placing all the knit cams in a single track both on dial and
on cylinder sides. The cam repeat is shown in Figure 9.36. The different drop
needle effects are produced by the needle repeat.

9.1.4.3.1  Rib 2 × 1 Design

The design has two consecutive knit stitches on cylinder side followed by
one knit stitch on dial side. The every odd needle on dial side is dropped to
get this effect. The needle repeat and design are shown in Figure 9.37.

9.1.4.3.2  Rib 2 × 2 Design

The design has two knit stitches on cylinder side and two stitches on dial
side in a repeat. The cylinder side has every third needle drop, and dial side
has first needle drop in a needle repeat. The needle repeat and design are
shown in Figure 9.38.

Feeders

1 2 3 4 5

Dial 1 ^ ^ ^ ^ ^
Tracks

Cylinder 1 ^ ^ ^ ^ ^

FIGURE 9.36
Cam repeat for rib drop needle design.

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 Patterning in Weft Knitting 221

Needles
Needle 1 on dial is dropped
in a needle repeat 1 2

Dial 1 × |

Tracks
1
Cylinder 1 | |

FIGURE 9.37
Rib 2 × 1.

Needles
Drop needle 1 2 3

Dial 1 × | |
Tracks

1
Cylinder 1 | | ×

FIGURE 9.38
Rib 2 × 2.

9.1.4.3.3  Rib 3 × 2 Design

The design has three stitches on cylinder side and two stitches on dial side.
The cylinder side has one-needle drop, and dial side has two-needle drop in
a repeat. The needle repeat and design are shown in Figure 9.39.

9.1.5  Interlock and Its Derivatives

9.1.5.1  Structure with Two-Needle Type
The interlock structures require a minimum of two tracks to produce on
cam track system because the needles are placed opposite to each other on
dial and cylinder sides. The two types of stitches are minimum to control Q9
the needles on interlock gating machines. The needles pattern is shown in
Figure 9.40. The combination of long and short needles is used on interlock

Needles
1 2 3 4

Dial 1 × × | |
Tracks

1
Cylinder 1 | | | ×

FIGURE 9.39
Rib 3 × 2.

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 222 Structural Textile Design

Needles

1 2 3 4

2 | |

Dial 1 | |

Tracks
Cylinder 1 | |

2 | |

FIGURE 9.40
Needle repeat of plain interlock design.

machine. Track 1 represents the short needle, while Track 2 represents the
long needle.

9.1.5.1.1  Plain Interlock

The plain interlock structure has two feeders repeat. The plain interlock
structure is formed by all the knit stitches. The needle repeat and design are
shown in Figure 9.41.
Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches on short needles.

Course 2: has all the knit stitches on long needles.

9.1.5.1.2  Interlock Cross Tubular

The design has two feeders repeat. In this design, the needles are arranged
in 2 × 2 manner. Two short and two long needles are placed in a sequence.
The needle repeat and design are shown in Figure 9.42.

Feeders
Dial and cylinder needles
are placed opposite to each other 1 2

2 ^ –
1
Dial 1 – ^
Tracks

Cylinder 1 – ^
2
2 ^ –

FIGURE 9.41
Design and cam repeat of plain interlock.

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 Patterning in Weft Knitting 223

Needles

Two short and two long 1 2 3 4

needles are placed
2 | |

1 Dial 1 | |

Tracks
2 Cylinder 1 | |

2 | |

FIGURE 9.42
Design and needle repeat of interlock cross tubular.

Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches on short needles.

Course 2: has all the knit stitches on long needles.

9.1.5.1.3  Interlock Half Cardigan

This design has four feeders repeat. The design has knit, tuck, and miss
stitches at alternate positions of dial and cylinder side needles. The needle
repeat and design are shown in Figure 9.43.
Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches on long needles of cylinder and dial
sides.
Course 2: has all the miss stitches on short needles of cylinder and dial
sides.

Feeders
Dial
1 1 2 3 4
Cylinder
2 ^ – –
2
Dial 1 – ^ –
Tracks

3 Cylinder 1 – ^ – ^

2 ^ – ^ –
4

FIGURE 9.43
Cam repeat and design of interlock half-cardigan.

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 224 Structural Textile Design

Course 3: has all the knit stitches on long needles of cylinder side and
tuck stitches on long needles of dial side.
Course 4: has all the knit stitches on short needles of cylinder side and
tuck stitches on short needles of dial side.

9.1.5.1.4  Interlock Half Milano

This design has four feeders repeat. The design has knit and miss stitches at
alternate positions of dial and cylinder side needles. The needle repeat and
design are shown in Figure 9.44.
Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches on long needles of cylinder and dial
sides.
Course 2: has all the miss stitches on short needles of cylinder and dial
sides.
Course 3: has all the knit stitches on long needles of cylinder side and
miss stitches on dial side.
Course 4: has all the knit stitches on short needles of cylinder side and
miss stitches on dial side.

9.1.5.1.5  Interlock Modified

This design has four feeders repeat. The design has knit, tuck, and miss
stitches at alternate positions of dial and cylinder side needles. The needle
repeat and design are shown in Figure 9.45.
Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches on long needles of cylinder and dial
sides.
Course 2: has all the knit stitches on short needles of cylinder side and
miss stitches on dial side.

Short needle
Long needle Feeders

1 1 2 3 4

2 ^ – – –
2
Dial 1 – ^ – –
Tracks

3 Cylinder 1 – ^ – ^
2 ^ – ^ –
4

FIGURE 9.44
Cam repeat and design of interlock half-milano.

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 Patterning in Weft Knitting 225

Feeders
Short and long needles are represented
1 by Tracks 1 and 2, respectively 1 2 3 4

2 ^ – – –
2
Dial 1 – – ^ –

Tracks
3 Cylinder 1 – ^ ^ –
2 ^ – – ^
4

FIGURE 9.45
Cam repeat and design of interlock modified.

Course 3: has all the knit stitches on short needles of cylinder and dial
sides.
Course 4: has all the knit stitches on long needles of cylinder side and
miss stitches on dial side.

9.1.5.1.6  Interlock Cross Miss

This design has four feeders repeat. The design has knit, tuck, and miss
stitches at alternate positions of dial and cylinder side needles. The needle
repeat and design are shown in Figure 9.46.
Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches on long needles of cylinder and dial
sides.
Course 2: has all the miss stitches on short needles of cylinder and dial
sides.
Course 3: has all the knit stitches on long needles of cylinder side and
miss stitches on dial side.

1 Feeders
No. of feeders is equal to the
2 no. of courses in a design repeat 1 2 3 4 5 6

2 ^ – – – ^ –
3
Dial 1 – ^ – ^ – –
Tracks

4
Cylinder 1 – ^ – ^ – ^
5
2 ^ – ^ – ^ –
6

FIGURE 9.46
Cam repeat and design of interlock cross miss.

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 226 Structural Textile Design

Course 4: same as Course 2.

Course 5: same as Course 1.
Course 6: has all the knit stitches on short needles of cylinder side and
miss stitches on dial side.

9.1.5.1.7  Interlock Cross Relief

This design has eight feeders repeat. The design has knit and miss stitches at
different positions of dial and cylinder side needles. The needle repeat and
design are shown in Figure 9.47.
Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches on long needles of cylinder and dial
sides.
Course 2: has all the knit stitches on short needles of cylinder and dial
sides.
Course 3: has all the miss stitches on cylinder side and knit stitches on
long needles of dial side.
Course 4: has all the miss stitches on cylinder side and knit stitches on
short needles of dial side.
Course 5: has all the knit stitches on long needles of cylinder side and
miss stitches on dial side.
Course 6: has all the knit stitches on short needles of cylinder side and
miss stitches on dial side.
Course 7: same as Course 5.
Course 8: same as Course 6.

1
Short needles Feeders
2 working only
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
3
2 ^ – ^ – – – – –
4
Dial 1 – ^ – ^ – – – –
Tracks

5
Cylinder 1 – ^ – – – ^ – ^
6
2 ^ – – – ^ – ^ –
7

FIGURE 9.47
Cam repeat and design interlock cross relief.

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 Patterning in Weft Knitting 227

9.1.5.1.8  Interlock Double Tuck

This design has six feeders repeat. The design has knit, tuck, and miss
stitches at alternate positions of dial and cylinder side needles. The needle
repeat and design are shown in Figure 9.48.
Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches on long needles of cylinder and dial
sides.
Course 2: has all the tuck stitches on short needles of cylinder side and
knit stitches on short needles of dial side.
Course 3: has all the knit stitches on long needles of cylinder side and
tuck stitches on long needles of dial side.
Course 4: has all the knit stitches on short needles of cylinder and dial
sides.
Course 5: has all the tuck stitches on long needles of cylinder side and
knit stitches long needles of dial side.
Course 6: has all the knit stitches on short needles of cylinder side and
tuck stitches on short needles of dial side.

9.1.5.1.9  Interlock Piquette

This design has six feeders repeat. The design has knit and miss stitches at
alternate positions of dial and cylinder side needles. The needle repeat and
design are shown in Figure 9.49.

1 Long needles working only

Feeders

2 1 2 3 4 5 6
2 ^ – – ^ –
3
Dial 1 – ^ – ^ –
Tracks

4 Cylinder 1 – – ^ – ^
2 ^ – ^ – –
5

FIGURE 9.48
Cam repeat and design of interlock double tuck.

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 228 Structural Textile Design

1
Feeders
2 All miss stitches on dial 1 2 3 4 5 6

3 2 ^ ^ – – – –
Dial 1 – – – ^ ^ –

Tracks
4
Cylinder 1 – – ^ ^ – –
5 2 ^ – – – – ^
6

FIGURE 9.49
Cam repeat and design of interlock piquette.

Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches on long needles of cylinder and dial
sides.
Course 2: has all the miss stitches on long needles of cylinder side and
knit stitches on long needles of dial side.
Course 3: has all the knit stitches on short needles of cylinder side and
miss stitches on dial side.
Course 4: has all the knit stitches on short needles of cylinder and dial
sides.
Course 5: has all the miss stitches on cylinder side and knit stitches on
short needles of dial side.
Course 6: has all the knit stitches on long needles of cylinder side and
miss stitches on dial side.

9.1.5.1.10  Interlock Rodier

This design has six feeders repeat. The design has knit, tuck, and miss
stitches at alternate positions of dial and cylinder side needles. The needle
repeat and design are shown in Figure 9.50.
Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches on long needles of cylinder and dial
sides.
Course 2: has all the knit stitches on short needles of cylinder and dial
sides.
Course 3: has all the tuck stitches on long needles of cylinder and dial
sides.
Course 4: same as Course 2.

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 Patterning in Weft Knitting 229

1 Feeders
Tuck on every long
1 2 3 4 5 6
2 needle of dial
and cylinder 2 ^ – – ^ –
3
Dial 1 – ^ – ^ –

Tracks
4 Cylinder 1 – ^ – ^ –

5 2 ^ – – ^ –

FIGURE 9.50
Cam repeat and design of interlock rodier.

Course 5: same as Course 1.

Course 6: has all the tuck stitches on short needles of cylinder and dial
sides.

9.1.5.1.11  Pin tuck

This design has six feeders repeat. The design has knit, tuck, and miss
stitches at alternate positions of dial and cylinder side needles. The needle
repeat and design are shown in Figure 9.51.
Design Pattern:

Course 1: has all the knit stitches on long needles of cylinder and dial
sides.
Course 2: has all the knit stitches on short needles of cylinder side and
tuck stitches on short needles of dial side.

1 Dial Feeders

2 1 2 3 4 5 6
Cylinder
2 ^ – – –
3

Dial 1 – – ^ –
Tracks

4
Cylinder 1 – ^ – ^ – ^
5
2 ^ – ^ – ^ –
6 Feeder 5 represents Course 5

FIGURE 9.51
Cam repeat and design of pin tuck.

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 230 Structural Textile Design

Course 3: has all the knit stitches on long needles of cylinder side and
tuck stitches on long needles of dial side.
Course 4: has all the knit stitches on short needles of cylinder and dial
sides.
Course 5: has all the knit stitches on long needles of cylinder side and
tuck stitches on long needles of dial side.
Course 6: has all the knit stitches on short needles of cylinder side and
tuck stitches on short needles of dial side.

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 Cat. No: K29869 Chapter No: C009

TO: CORRESPONDING AUTHOR

AUTHOR QUERIES – TO BE ANSWERED BY THE AUTHOR

The following queries have arisen during the typesetting of your manuscript. Please answer
these queries by marking the required corrections at the appropriate point in the text.

Query Nature of Query Response

No.

Q1 Please check the numbering of all heading levels.

Q2 Please check the symbols following the sentence “To

represent the type of stitches, following symbol are…” for
correctness.

Q3 Please check whether the edit made to the sentence “On

single-knit machine, the cams are placed on cylinder…”
retains its intended meaning.

Q4 Please check whether the edit made to the sentence “If

there are two or more tracks used on…” retains its intended
meaning.

Q5 Please check whether the edit made to the sentence “This

can be produced on a minimum of…” retains its intended
meaning.

Q6 Please check the sentence “The cam repeat of this design in

given in…” for completeness.

Q7 Please check whether the edit made to the sentence “This

design is formed by the repeat that consists of three
courses…” retains its intended meaning.

Q8 Please check phrase “Cam Arrangement” at the end of

Section 9.1.4.2.4 for significance.

Q9 Please check the sentence “The two type of stitches are

minimum to control…” for clarity.

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