volume 41

Moebius Dawn of Justice Batmobile

Blake’s 7 London • Force Awakens • Stingray Terror Fish

inner pages pp2 and 99_scififantasyModeller 06/11/2015 15:12 Page 2

Print editions can be obtained from:

www.scififantasymodeller.co.uk
info@scififantasymodeller.co.uk

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00 titles_HFTM_vol40_pp3-8_scifi 17/03/2016 10:46 Page 3

This Volume is dedicated to the memory of

Sylvia Anderson – 1927-2016.

Volume 41
00 titles_HFTM_vol40_pp3-8_scifi 17/03/2016 10:46 Page 4

Hot from the Mould – sizzling releases 6

Going node-where: Tethered props and models 9
International rescuer: Brains saves the day 21
Retro Bat-Tech 32
Bang up to date Batmobile 45
Blake in shackles: studio scale London 54
Eagle Round 2: the conclusion 62
Force Awakens kits – young modellers only? 70
Alien healthcare: Wildhouse medi-console 82
Hot from the Mould – a second helping 90
Rampaging Martians: WOTW reader project 93
Scaled model: Titan Terror Fish 95

Editor-in-Chief/co-Publisher: Michael G. Reccia.

Specials Editor: Andy Pearson.
Art Editor/co-Publisher: David Openshaw.
Regular modelling team: Iain Costall, Jim Costello, Barry Ford, Jason C. Gares,
Andy Pearson, Gary R. Welsh.
This volume’s contributors: Steve Howarth, Jeff Keith.
Gotham cover montage background photo: © Shutterstock / Jon Bilous.
web: www.scififantasymodeller.co.uk
editorial email: info@scififantasymodeller.co.uk
Published by Happy Medium Press copyright © 2016
ISBN-13: 978-0-9930320-6-6
Printed in the United Kingdom by Pioneer Print Solutions.

All rights reserved. This book may not be reproduced in whole or in part The publishers and author (contributors) take no responsibility for any harm
without written permission from the Publishers, except by a reviewer who or injury to the reader as a result of using the techniques described in this
may quote brief passages in a review; nor may any part of this book be publication. Safety and common safe should always be foremost when using
reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any these techniques and materials. Read all instructions and warnings on tools,
means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or other, without paint, glues, and all chemicals. Hobby knives are very sharp and serious injury
written permission from the Publisher. can result from improper use. Your work area should be well ventilated at all
The views expressed by our contributors are not necessarily shared by Happy times. Children should be supervised at all times by an adult familiar with
Medium Press. Every care is taken to ensure that the contents of Sci.fi & hobby safety. Please note that all hints, tips and procedures in this
fantasy modeller are accurate, but the Publishers cannot accept responsibility publication are given in good faith and based on actual experience. However,
for errors. Responsibility for correct copyrighting of photographs, artwork neither the publisher nor authors (contributors) can be responsible if
and illustrations lies with the contributor. All copyrights are acknowledged. something goes wrong during construction.
Reasonable care is taken when accepting advertising. However, the Publishers
cannot accept any responsibility for any resulting unsatisfactory transactions
or any inaccuracies contained within the ads themselves.

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00 titles_HFTM_vol41_pp3-8_scifi 24/03/2016 13:46 Page 5

volume 41 EDITORIAL
As I type this our Modelling the Eagle special has proven popularity of MTE, we‘ve begun work on a labour-of-
to be our most sought after hobby publication ever in love sequel – Modelling: 1999 – which is set to publish
the twenty-plus years that David and myself have been on or around September 13 this year (series’ fans will
working together (well over 100 editions and specials to recognise the significance of the date).
date... where has the time gone?
Hair... I... remember... Hair!...). We’re in the early stages of
production at the moment, but watch
As regular readers will know I’m a our site for updates and a pre-order
huge admirer of the Eagle (a forty- offer soon.
three year love affair which prompted
development of MTE in the first Meanwhile, as you hopefully look
place) and it’s therefore extremely forward to Modelling: 1999 as much
satisfying to see so many of you as we’re looking forward to putting it
enjoying our celebration of Brian Johnson’s iconic together, here’s a whole new issue of the very best in SF
spaceship. modelling to dive into...

Space:1999 was an epic show (particularly in its first Thank you, as always, for joining us. Look forward to
year) and had ‘classic design’ written right through it, meeting you, right here, in 90.
from props and sets through to miniatures and effects Michael G. Reccia
and, spurred on by the series’ unique look and the Editor-In-Chief

Follow us on Facebook [ http://www.facebook.com/pages/Scifi-fantasy-modeller/110020029085161 ]

and Twitter [ http://twitter.com/#!/SffModeller ]. 5|
00 titles_HFTM_vol40_pp3-8_scifi 17/03/2016 10:47 Page 6

HOT FROM THE MOULD

ROUNDING UP WHAT’S NEW AND HAPPENING IN SF AND FANTASY MODELLING

MOEBIUS

There’s a whole shelf-full of exciting releases to

anticipate from Moebius this year....

A New Battlestar Galactica 1:32 scale Raptor kit plus a

1:32 Proteus submarine with interior from the 1966
classic movie Fantastic Voyage (around 16 inches long)
will be available from Moebius later in 2016. Expect
test shot builds of these two new kits in upcoming
volumes of this title.

(assembled and painted) version Comic-

Con exclusive, released this summer,
presented in a pedestal display box, similar
to the company’s treatment of Catwoman
on Bat-Pod in 2014 and Krypto in 2015. A
Batwing kit from the movie will also follow
sometime this year...

BvS Batman and Superman

Scheduled for summer release are these
highly-detailed 1/8 scale resin figure kits
based on digital effects files and featuring
Batman in his armoured batsuit from the
movie. A Wonder Woman figure addition
to the series is also in the works...

Batman Classic TV Series

Robin
The third release in Moebius’ classic
Batman figure kit series – Robin – is back
BvS Batmobile underway after some technical glitches at the 3D
Now available (see test shot review this issue), the new SolidWorks stage that delayed the project considerably.
Batmobile kit will also be offered as a pre-finished The kit should make an appearance late spring/early

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00 titles_HFTM_vol40_pp3-8_scifi 17/03/2016 10:48 Page 7

AMMO OF MIG

Ammo of Mig Jimenez have released two acrylic

brush/airbrush colour sets specifically formulated for SF
modellers. These are the Space Fighters set (containing
Matt Black, Satin White, Crystal Black Blue, Bluish
Titanium, Gunship Grey and Grey Blue paints) and the
Star Defenders set (Red, Matt White, Grey, Warm Sand-
Yellow, Silver and Gold).

Also new from the company is a range of Metal

Acrylic Colour paints for brushes or airbrush, including
Brass, Old Brass, Aluminium, Warhead Metallic Blue
and Titanium.
www.migjimenez.com

summer – sculpt by Jeff Yagher, packaging

illustration by Christopher Franchi.

Penguin
Also expected to hit shelves
during the summer months
is the fourth release in
the series: Burgess
Meredith’s classic
Penguin,
which will
feature the
option of opened
or closed umbrella.
Again, sculpted by
Jeff Yagher with
packaging
illustration by
Christopher Franchi.

Riddler
More for the Batman Classic TV kit
series is planned — a Riddler figure
is currently at the 3D SolidWorks
stage, with Moebius moving to
tooling stage once they have approval
on the mockup/printed output.
Hopefully, the Riddler will join the
growing collection of figure
kits by the autumn.

www.moebiusmodels.com

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00 titles_HFTM_vol41_pp3-8_scifi 24/03/2016 09:58 Page 8

Eagle Transporter Hangar

CENTURY CASTINGS Finally from
Century
Comlock and Stun Gun comes this
(Space:1999 Props and Ships Group kit) 1:72 kit,
again in scale
Three 1:1 scale with twelve-
Space:1999 prop inch Eagle
kits are now models and
available from available as
Century Castings: one of two
a Comlock, a options: with
Comlock Desk or without
Holder and an floor section.
Alpha Stun Gun.
The Comlock Full details available by emailing:
features kiss cut centurycastings2014@gmail.com
decals pro- or visiting
printed on self adhesive vinyl with anti-fade ink and www.centurycastings.co.uk
comes with aluminium side knobs as standard. An

WILDHOUSE MODELS
upgrade to the Stun Gun kit is also available in the form
of an aluminium emitter nozzle and side knobs set by
Mike Reader.
Hover Bike
Moonbase Alpha building
The latest release from Wildhouse is their 1:32 scale,
Additionally, an 170mm long Hover Bike kit featuring 50+ resin and
original 1999 clear parts and a custom A5 decal sheet. The bike can be
design by Century made up as civilian, military and in flight versions and
Castings’ Alex there are different options for the rider plus two head
Jackson is options: helmet or plain head. A custom lighting kit
available in the (optional) for the bike will also soon be available from
shape of this cast Wildhouse. Bike kit RRP £85.95.
polyurethane
moonbase building www.wildhousemodels.com
in 1:72 scale which
is suitable for
complementing 12" Eagle model dioramas. Footprint of
the model is A4 size and the height of the walls at the
lowest point is 110mm. The kit is easy to assemble and
includes mirrored, self adhesive window decals.

|8 Continued on page 90...

01-Tethered_pp8-20_scififantasyModeller 14/03/2016 10:58 Page 9

ALL
TIED
UP
Steve Howarth creates key miniature and full-size elements for new sci-fi feature ‘Tethered’

EVEN THOUGH THIS SCI-FI SHORT HASN’T BEEN All I did know was the feel James was after: a
COMPLETED YET, JAMES PRICE (ITS MAKER) HAS kind of well-worn, retro look. I didn’t quite know
KINDLY GIVEN ME THE GO-AHEAD TO WRITE AND what these things would end up looking like as I
SUBMIT THIS ARTICLE about my contribution, wasn’t working from drawings – just a few
making three props and the only miniature for this reference photos of existing objects and phone
hush-hush project. I can’t give anything away conversations re the sizes. I was just making them
regarding the plot, because I don’t know it myself! up as I went along and hoped for the best, whilst
All I know is that an updating James on a regular basis with pics over
astronaut is stranded on a the internet. I have reference images in my mind,
Mars-type planet with but if my creative juices take me off topic (as it
only a floating robot for were), I tend to go with them.
company. Said robot, or
‘Node’ as he is called, Having a creative bent I get bored quickly, and
is tethered to our so, as not to get bored, I alternated between the
protagonist, hence the escape pod and the droid, but, for ease of reading
title, which I hasten to and writing, I will focus on one at a time.
add is a working title and
could change. Why the Escape Pod
robot is tethered may be a ‘A bit like a Vostok,’ James said, so I browsed the
plot device – I don’t net for pictures of Russian capsules. Then we
know. Or maybe it’s just decided that the porthole should be bigger than on
left to the audience to the Vostok’s... after all, it is alternate universe sci-
guess... maybe this fi and, from a film-maker’s standpoint, would give
particular model has a a better view of the landscape from inside the pod.
history of disobedience (a
bug in the software) and More than a mere escape pod, the vehicle also
has to be tethered to stop serves as a temporary home whilst on a hostile
it escaping. planet and so is a tad larger than a normal capsule.
The finished result is rather workaday, nothing we

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haven’t seen before, but the ‘v’ groove that that creates to guide my own
with a low budget there scriber around a few times. I ground the back edge
is a limit to how amazing of a scalpel blade so it cut a flat bottomed trench
you can make something about .5mm wide and pushed no burr onto the top
look. They say ‘limit is edges (the grinding of this blade required some
the true generator of experience/confidence... only attempt this if you
creativity – not freedom’. know what you are doing). About 4 or 5 passes
I decided to prioritise the and I was through. The same went for the access
time towards realistic panel at the back (as at this stage I was building to
details and weathering. camera to save money) which was later to become
Hopefully James can the extra heat shielding on the bottom. All the
make what I have done panel lines were also done with this custom made
look amazing with blade, but not before drawing them all in pencil
the direction and the first. I lightly sanded the ABS ‘hemi’ to make it
lighting. more like paper and easier to draw on. It’s an extra
process, but it’s faster than scribing and so you can
Two 12" diameter EMA domes would form the be more creative and not worry – if you don’t like
basis of the pod. Cutting a nice, neat hole for the what’s been done, just erase it and try again. Lines
viewing port would be the first thing to do. I had of longitude and latitude mostly worked for me
a pre-formed ring from a child’s toy that already (and now scribe).
had a clear window in it, which was a decent size,
so I let this dictate the size of the hole. I elected to Nice thing about having decent grooves in the
mark the circle with a circle cutter and then used material was, when I burnished the aluminium foil

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over the top of them, they showed up quite clearly. the hatch door with the scribe
Then it was a simple matter of letting the groove tool as I needed a nice, neat line,
guide my scalpel as I cut lightly through the foil. scribing around corners using
Then I could push the overlap each side of the an engineer’s radius gauge to
groove into the groove with my fingernail. This is scribe around. I made a pencil
what I did for the entire pod. Just prior to applying mark at the front and the back of
the foil, however, I did pre-drill all the holes for the the arc so I knew when to stop –
‘rivets’ – dressmakers’ pins – as drilling through pressing the gauge hard enough
foil tends to snag it. Again, rubbing the foil with so it doesn’t move while you’re
the flat of your fingernail reveals the holes’ scribing is the real trick.
locations, then you can just push the pin in. These
were ‘push fit’ so I wouldn’t get involved in a time The hatch was required in the
consuming and potentially messy gluing process, open or closed position, but was
especially when there were so many pins. Gluing not seen opening or closing, so no
each pin from behind wasn’t a realistic option working hinges were needed, just a
either. These pins were very tight in their holes and couple of slots and corresponding tabs made from
weren’t going anywhere. strip styrene. A small window was put in and a
couple of handles from bent welding rod and that
Each time I completed a patch of foil, I masked was it. Both small and large portholes were
it off to protect it. ‘Ally’ foil picks up marks so double-glazed and panes set at the right distance
easily and although a few here and there actually apart, giving the pod a believable wall thickness,
helped the look, I didn’t want the hundreds of as it surely would be double-skinned in reality –
marks it would pick up if I didn’t mask. I cut out well, our reality. A ring with holes cut out would

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bridge the gap of the main porthole. Little did I ‘0000’ grade. Also scratching the surface with wet
know I would be making this full size later on. and dry (240/180 grades). I imagined an
Two found pieces were glued just under the atmosphere with dust in it (Mars does have some
porthole, but were a greasy plastic, probably serious dust storms), quite capable of heavily
polypropylene, so needed a dab of P.O. primer scoring an object passing through it at high speed.
before supergluing. Polyolefin Primer or Loctite Plus, being a Mars type planet, it could be even
770 enables you to superglue together plastics that heavier than that.
normally won’t stick. It’s quite pricey for
such a small bottle, but a must for Node
found-object model-makers. The The pod was a very straightforward build
product code on the bottle (see photo) is compared to Node the floating robot, who
an RS Components number. was also just a sphere (essentially), but with
the added complication of me having to glue
For the detail in the upper recess I just both halves together and do a lot of work
did my thing. Unfortunately I only inside the sphere as I squeezed my
had the bits for two release giant meat-hooks through a
clamp arms. But, hey, in space small access hole cut out for
there aren’t the stresses you the rear engine. Not unlike
get on the ground, so two the construction of
might have been enough GERTY from Moon, I
(and clearly were!). was given a camera
Makes for it being a bit lens to use for the ‘eye’
different, I suppose. and needed to hook
up the iris segments,
Weathering the pod, I or, rather, the pin that
used ‘dirty down’ spray moved the thin leaves
available from the studio of steel to a mech of some
stores – ‘mid brown’ is kind. For simplicity and
favourite. I applied more budget’s sake, I decided to use
heavily towards the bottom, cycle brake cables and handles
where most heat dis- for movement. I also wanted two
colouration would occur, taking speed flaps that moved as well, so
it back with super fine wire wool cables again for these, pulling the

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lever for movement and elastic bands (of all things) like it belonged. James couriered a photographic
used for the return force. lens which I housed in some EMA tube set into the
main dome. For the other protuberances I found
Spherical robots are not new (Portal and the some nice torch and laser lens housings and set
new Star Wars film comes to mind) but any images those into tube as well and had them jutting out as
I found on the internet had a central eye, so by if pushing even further forward in its search for
making the lens offset, I knew I’d be deviating information.
from this common theme.
Fitting the lens mechanism was a bit tricky,
At first it looked odd on its own, but as I added working inside the dome with my large hands. I
more pieces around it, it looked more and more made most of it outside the sphere, then glued it in

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01-Tethered_pp8-20_scififantasyModeller 14/03/2016 11:00 Page 14

at the last minute. I built the mech from Foamex radial piece in the engine is because I’ve had it for
as a test, with the intention of repeating it in so long I’ve forgotten. ...Probably a vegetable
aluminium, but found to my surprise it was strong strainer.
enough to do the job. With two pieces glued to
form a ‘T’ section it took the leverage without a Lighting the engine, I soldered lots of 5mm
problem. Elastic bands completed this low budget LEDs to two brass rings for both positive and
solution, looping the band repeatedly until the negative connection in parallel. You can see from
desired tension was achieved. the photo that no resistors were required. As long
as the voltage doesn’t go above 4.5 and there are
I used the same low tech approach for the enough milliamps available for it to draw upon,
‘steering flaps’ I decided to instal. Something to you shouldn’t need resistors. That’s only if you’re
give a bit more life (over and above the iris using a higher voltage – which I wasn’t. For front
movement), Node could twitch them randomly, facing lights, I used actual LED torches and slid
even though they would only be useful at high them into EMA tube of corresponding size. If the
speed... so I had to make Node look like it was fit wasn’t perfect, I either slit the tube and
capable of high speed by giving him/her/it a huge stretched it to a bigger diameter or stuck micro-
thruster at the rear. With small steering flaps strip inside if it was a tad big. This meant easy
around its rim and two extra jet nozzles either side change if a bulb blew. All the power comes from
for extra lift and umph steering and obvious anti- outside via wires I soldered into the torches, so no
gravity tech built in, Node would be very nimble – battery changes needed and no drop off in
were it not tethered to the astronaut. brightness while shooting.

If I find a good object and see a place for it, I’ll Detailing near the speed flaps, or between the
use it. Unfortunately, I can’t tell you what the flaps – if you’ll pardon the expression – was tricky

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in that I couldn’t really

detail between them
without whatever I did
looking like a mouth. The
last thing I wanted, was for
Node to look like a face.

Retro thrusters were

inverted ‘shot’ glasses
(plastic) from the
supermarket, with EMA
half round stuck around
and ‘ally’ foil inside to
help with light proofing
and bouncing the light
around inside. These had
their own little thrust zone set into the main body
using pieces of EMA tube and were also lined with
aluminium foil.

The other interesting found object I used was

Node’s ‘brain’, as it were.

Car boot sales are a great place to find

interesting objects and this next piece was no
exception. Looking past the overall shape and

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picking out others is key here, as the turtle-shaped loop and wouldn’t turn off, so a friend of mine,
child’s learning toy is of no use at all, but the who’s a bit of a whizz with electronics – Dave
electronic part of it, on its back, was luckily of a Forward (who also hosts my website –
uniform shape and a dished shape at that. What www.visn.co.uk) – figured out where the reset
with the fancy patterns generated by the LEDs (not contacts were on the circuit board. So then, it was
just random), this was screaming to be a simple matter of running two wires from Node
incorporated into Node as a visual representation and attaching a push switch to it (’s funny, seen
of its ‘thought’ process. James liked this idea, but removed from the toy, its almost brain-coloured).
didn’t want it on all the time as it would distract I think it also balances out the offset eye, almost
from the iris movement, so it was only to be on creating a reason for the eye to be offset, and adds
at given moments. much needed colour to the droid.
Unfortunately,
once trip- The paint job was the usual grey plastic primer
ped, it then aerosol colours. The difference with Node
would go was that I included paint chip effect, using a silver
into a paint pen (rather than the latex method) along
with deeper gouges using a scalpel. General dirt
was dabbed on powder paint. Once I had
sealed the silver paint pen with a coating of
satin lacquer, I could drag the powder
paint across it without affecting it too,
using kitchen roll and lighter fluid (not
water, as this dissolves the powder
paint – lighter fluid just loosens it
mostly, if you’re quick). The real trick
with this is to be brave and loosen up,
getting into that creative zone, as labouring
over every scratch can end up looking
contrived (as if the whole thing isn’t) – a loss of a
naturalistic look, if you like. In reality, things
happen randomly, so even if you think you’ve
done something heavy-handedly, it can still look
good. James did want Node to look battered and

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scratched as if this wasn’t its first tour of duty. I a selection of second-hand cine cameras, which I
thought it might look cool if it looked like these said I would use to obliterate the visor. My plan
droids were capable of speed... maybe they were was to cover the visor (which, when you looked
allowed to scout far ahead and then zip back and closely, had filaments laminated into it, like the
report, or bring back samples, but because of an heated rear window on a car!) with thin sheet
inherent hardware problem, later had to be aluminium and then bolt various lens arrays onto
tethered. I usually build a feature then think of a that from inside. James liked this idea, so he let me
reason for it afterwards, to be honest. As it turned run with it. I sent photos to him, holding pieces in
out further conversation with James revealed that’s position, before committing to attaching them.
not the kind of history he had in mind, so speed
was never needed, meaning my design features After choosing the cameras I was going to use, it
were redundant. Still, James still liked the look of was a case of hacksawing off the front ends and
Node, so no harm, no foul. filling in the hollows with P40 – a polyester filler
with chopped strands of glass-fibre already mixed
Helmet into it – as I needed something solid to work with.
James sent me a Russian G-suit helmet as a The angle I was attaching the piece at meant a
starting point. Used quite a lot in B-movie sci-fi helpful little strip of styrene glued to the camera
films and shorts due to their availability (via the that I could break off later. I covered the screen in
internet) and reasonable price. To disguise this parcel tape as a release agent. Once hardened, I
recognisable object, some heavy dressing was would drill into the back of the camera and set in
needed. In an ideal world sculpted and cast pieces some threaded ‘ally’ sleeves for the bolts. My main
would be attached to change the shape, but instead worry with the job was how the screen would
we discussed a cheaper solution, so James sent me behave when being drilled into. Not knowing

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what kind of plastic but suspecting it was a kind of regular workshop, but there was plenty of room
acrylic, I made sure any drills I used were ‘backed downstairs and no-one to say, ‘You can’t put that
off’. This means grinding off the leading edges of there! Where’s the dining table going to go?’ Still,
the tip of the drill on the grinding wheel, an old with great consideration, I stapled polythene
trick that helps prevent the drill being pulled sheeting where I could, to stop dust travelling, and
through the material abruptly and shattering the placed two sheets of plywood over the carpet to
hole. Not that a few chips would have mattered, stop me treading the stuff in. I don’t want to lose
but this could cause a full-blown crack. Not my deposit, after all.
something I wanted to happen. As it happened it
was fine and, with a little WD40 as lubricant, Getting it out of the flat was another
drills and hole saws cut through no problem. consideration, so I knew instantly that this would
be in four segments. I hasten to add, only half of
I made everything removable for access, the pod was being made (budget, of course). The
changing bulbs, or repairing damages, a discipline camera would be placed so the illusion of a full
I picked up during my time at Modern Props LA. sphere took place.

Wanting to disguise it further and throw the eye, Firstly, I drew up a skeleton of the sphere in
I installed lots of cables that went across the line of Sketchup, with plywood ribs being a reasonable
the visor. What with the final busyness and distance, so as to give that spherical feel. Curved in
illuminated lenses, I think it seriously detracts the vertical plane, yet in the horizontal plane it
from what’s underneath. would be a series of flats. There’s no reason why
the exterior can’t be a perfect sphere and the
One lens didn’t have a bulb behind it – just a interior faceted... this was double-skinned, after
hole – so as to give the actor something to see out all. To this effect I was going to show this wall
of. After checking the visibility out myself, it was thickness with a double-glazed porthole, with each
time to weather the helmet. For this I used ‘dirty pane of ‘glass’ in line with each ‘skin’ layer, as it
down’ spray from the studio stores – ‘mid brown’ were (PET-G, as it’s known in the trade, would be
dabbed with lighter fluid, but not before spending the material of choice for the ‘glass’, still with its
many hours and elbow grease removing the protective cover on in most of the photos.).
anodised green colour from the aluminium that I
found underneath the two layers of paint, which Before cutting anything I also made sure the
themselves required two tins of paint stripper to proportions of porthole/pod were correct, so that
remove. James could cut between the set and the miniature
without a noticeable jump, so I superimposed a
Escape Pod interior photo of the pod over the Sketchup drawing to
Having made the miniature for this and having make sure. Then I used Sketchup’s ‘tapemeasure’
had some experience with making full size props, I tool to give me all the radii I needed for the ribs
managed to convince James to fund me to make and measurements for all the intersections where I
the interior set, or the basic bones of it, anyway. would do half-lap joints. Then it was a simple case
Obviously, this was going to be too big for my of transferring that info onto 18 sheets of 8 x 4

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01-Tethered_pp8-20_scififantasyModeller 14/03/2016 11:03 Page 20

plywood and jig-sawing it all out. Trammel bars screw heads in the process. I left the blue film on
on a length of 2 x 1 gave me a groove, which I then to protect the Foamex where I could as it damages
ran a pencil along so I could see the line clearly. I easily. I glued more strips either side of the
cut bang on the line. I’m pretty good at this, if I’m porthole discs to form a slot that would hold them
wearing the right spectacles, so no cleaning was in place when the two centre segments were
done after the event. The back edge is unseen and screwed together. The inner ‘strip’ is wider, of
the front edge would be covered with Foamex. The course, and has a row of holes pre-cut to match
first one has to be the best, because I’d use that as the miniature. A small recess, a ceiling piece and a
a template to draw the rest, so I only needed to use wall unit were all the budget allowed me to do.
the bars once... for the verticals, at least, as they James would do the rest... or hire me to dress it on
are all the same. The horizontals repeat once either site at a later date, but, for now, this was complete.
side of the ‘equator’. Not before the mandatory coat of grey plastic
primer and making sure the pieces would fit into
This worked remarkably well! Thank you, the van I’d hired to drive down to the location.
Sketchup! I think I would have had a hard time (Close call, too – the pieces just fit.)
making this without some sort of computer
software. Tethered has been a lot of fun ‘designing’ on the
hoof, and I look forward to seeing the finished
After the first segment was slotted and screwed film some time in 2016. I know that James and his
together (no glue, just in case it needs to stretch a helpers will make these modest models look as
little) I checked it would go downstairs and out of good as they possibly can. There may even be
the door. It did... just... with millimeters to spare! more miniatures in the pipeline. That being the
Four more like this and I had the basic skeleton, case, there’ll be another article.
which I just screwed together. Next I screwed wide
Foamex strips between the ribs and superglued Watch this space.
narrow strips on top of that, hiding a lot of tiny

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shouts Thunderbirds model specialist Barry Ford

...THAT’S NOT AN INSTRUCTION, BUT THE NAME OF A ideally suited to modelling at 1/35th scale. Both a
CLASSIC THUNDERBIRDS EPISODE FEATURING ALAN puppet and model scale version of the vehicle are
AND GRANDMA TRACY trapped on a suspension seen in the episode, though neither in great detail,
bridge due to a motion detector that will set off a and there are the inevitable discrepancies between
bomb in typical spectacular Anderson-esque the two – all of which allows me to bring out my
manner. Our intrepid heroes have to neutralise the artistic license when interpreting the vehicle nearly
motion detector device and get Alan and fifty years after the event.
Grandma to safety before the bomb goes off. As
part of this action, Brains drives from Truth be told, this is not my first attempt to
Thunderbird 2’s pod to the location in a tracked model the Neutraliser Vehicle. Around ten to
vehicle with a transmitter dish, which, in effect, twelve years ago Imai released a series of resin
emits a localised electromagnetic pulse that International Rescue figures in 1/35th scale, both
neutralises the motion detector. as sets of figures and as individual figures boxed
with their appropriate vehicles. A standing figure
Unusually for International Rescue this of Brains was packaged with the Mole, but the
Neutraliser Vehicle is quite small and therefore vehicle was one of Imai’s smaller, less accurate

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early releases. I used this kit with various additions artistic license card, justified by the fact that it is 1 - 4: the original
from the spares box and surgically altered Brains from the same design philosophy. model.
into a sitting position to create a representation of 5: the Mole kit
the Neutraliser which, whilst not badly made (if I Whilst the correct length, the Mole tractor unit dismembered.
may say so myself), was a lot smaller than it has a sloping top, so these sections were cut off 6 - 7: my new
should have been for the figure teamed up with it. and levelled using plastic strip as support and tractor unit.
plasticard to infill the centre section. I built up 8: detailing is added...
This model has sat on the shelf collecting dust from this base using more plasticard, plastic 9 - 12: ...and
for many years until recently, when I decided to channel sections and parts from my spares box completed.
do something about the size disparity and have that I will let kit-watchers have fun with in
another go at building it using the Brains figure determining their origin for themselves. My
to dictate the final size of the model and re-using original ‘cabin’ area only needed minor
some of the parts, such as the seat and control modifications, although it did require a plinth with
panel, which were fairly accurate and to the curved ends to sit on, which was created using
right size. plasticard formers and strip sections. I had
estimated the size of the transmitter dish, but did
Comparing my Brains figure to photographs of not create it at this moment in time as I wanted to
the puppet and model vehicle I was able to finish building and painting the tractor before
determine an approximate size for the model, handling the more delicate, breakable parts. Once
aided by Graham Bleatham’s illustration in the I was happy with the shape, size and detail of the
Haynes Thunderbirds Manual. The wheels and tractor unit, including the ubiquitous girder bridge
tracks for the Neutraliser Vehicle on the filming parts, I gave the model a coat of grey primer to act
model were not from the tractor model often used as a base for the main coat of paint and to
for pod vehicles, but the wheels and tracks highlight any obvious defects. I find this to be a
included in Aoshima’s 1/72nd scale Mole vehicle very satisfying moment in any scratchbuild as this
were the correct size for my model so I decided is the first time the eclectic collection of parts starts
that I would make use of them by playing my looking like a cohesive whole.

1 2

3 4

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5 6

7 8

9 10

11 12

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13 14

15 16

A good few years ago I built the superb Elevator creating the effect of mud splashes and general 13 - 16: the tractor is
Car and Recovery Vehicle kits produced by UNCL dirtying down. I used MIG Pigments Russian Earth, primed.
and, at the time, decided to use Liquitex Napthol Dark Mud and Light Earth and mixed each with 17: red base coat and
Light Red for the body colour and was very some enamel thinners. I dipped a dedicated first wash applied.
pleased with it. As such, I chose to keep to the toothbrush in each mix in turn and ran the tip of my 18: tracks painted
same colour for the Neutraliser Vehicle. Liquitex finger over the brush to create a random spray effect and weathered.
produce a range of artist’s acrylic paints in two on the model. When dry I found this to be a little 19 - 21: mud
different consistencies and, generally, for model- harsh and so blended the pigments on the model by splashes.
making, I use their ‘soft body’ range. Being an using a scrubbing motion with an old stiff brush. 22 - 24: decalling
artist’s acrylic paint it has a slightly greater degree applied.
of translucency than some model acrylic paints The tracks are made of individual pieces glued to
and so you need to build up the colour over a a ‘rubber band’ after being painted and weathered
number of coats, which were applied using my and then fitted on the vehicle with the wheels.
Aztec airbrush and thinned with Vallejo Airbrush Further mud splashes were applied as above.
Thinner. When thoroughly dry I carried out the
detail painting using Vallejo French Mirage Blue The emitter dish started life as an internal fuel
and Neutral Grey. Once complete this was sealed tank dome in an Airfix Saturn V kit and further
with a coat of Vallejo Gloss Varnish, which acted parts from the spares box and plastic tubing were
as a base for decal application. The decals were used to complete the assembly before painting
non-specific and purely intended to provide some using the same colours as the main body and
visual interest. Once dry they were overcoated weathering with washes and drybrushing.
with a further coat of gloss then matt varnished.
I decided to repaint the Brains figure as I would
I started the weathering process by using washes like to believe that my skills have improved over
and dry-brush technique. Once dry I set about the years, and brush applied Vallejo White Primer

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17 18

19 20

21 22

23 24

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25 26

27 28

29 30

31 32

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25: decalling to work over. This is a superb primer and, whilst I cut a baseboard to size using dense polystyrene
completed. very thin, provides excellent coverage with a foam and chamfered the edges with a hot knife.
26: tracks and wheels. couple of coats. With small scale figures I like to Contours were added using further sections of
27: foam base. start by painting an opaque base colour to each polystyrene similarly cut to size and shape and set
28: foam putty area which is a mid-tone. I then work from dark to in place using hot glue. To blend the contours
applied. light as I would do on a larger scale figure, but not together I applied Woodland Scenics Foam Putty
29 - 31: pigments wanting to use an airbrush on something this small with an old butter knife. This was allowed to dry
applied. I mix in some drying retarder with the paint which then sanded to remove any rough edges or ridges.
32: foam putty slows down the drying time so that I can blend the
sanded. paint on the model using a traditional brush. Once I used plaster to cast some rock shapes from
33: rocks added. satisfied with the paintwork I applied a coat of Woodland Scenics moulds (after spending an
34 - 36: completed varnish and glued Brains into position on the inordinate amount of time trying to find them after
weathering. Neutraliser Vehicle. the big tidy up prior to decorating my house) and
these were glued in place once again using hot glue.
One of my pet hates when looking at completed Foam Putty was used to blend the pieces into
models is to see them isolated with no sense of place homogenous outcrops. I used Artist’s Gesso to
and/or scale, which is partly why I like to build prime the base as aerosol spray cans have a
dioramas. I started by making an approximate tendency to melt any exposed polystyrene foam
assessment of the size of base I would require. When (although it does make an interesting noise as you
making this decision you need to give the feature wipe away the tears of despair from your eyes). The
model enough space to breathe but not too much rocks were given base colours by applying liquid
that there is plenty of vacant space around it. The pigments wet on wet using a sponge applicator.
model is only really seen in the episode traversing
down an inclining road and coming to a halt by a It is important that the rocks appear to be
rocky outcrop. Whilst not being pedantically coming out of the ground rather than just sitting
exacting, I decided I would create a section of on it and so I mixed up some Celluclay (a fine
terrain that would evoke the feel of the episode. papier mache) with water, colouring and PVA glue

33 34

35 36

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37 38

39 40

41 42

42 44
37 - 41: further
examples of the
completed
weathering.
42: rocks primed.
43: rocks washed.
44: starting again
with Brains.

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45 46

47 48

49 50 51

52 53
45: rocks and sand
applied to base.
46: sand and gravel
attached to base.
47: Brains complete,
but he’s ’armless.
48: my Brains are
small enough to
fit in my hand.
49 - 52: Brains.
53: pigment applied
to base.
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to minimise cracking. This was trowel-

applied to the base and whilst still wet
covered with a sheet of cling film so
that the vehicle tracks could be
impressed into the base. The cling
film was removed and whilst still wet
various grades of sand and gravel
were also pressed into the Celluclay.

The Celluclay was set aside to

dry for a few days before coating
with a diluted coat of PVA glue to
keep everything in place. Once
that was dry I drybrushed the rocks
and applied Earth-coloured
pigment powders, once again using
enamel thinner as a medium, to
give the ground cover a more
homogenous appearance. When
dry some blending was carried out
using a scrubbing technique with
an old stiff brush and then sealed
with a coat of varnish. All that
was left to do was place the
Neutraliser Vehicle on the base and glue it to a
wooden chopping board for display purposes.

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B AT S T U F F !
From his secret lair – and working secretly – Andy Pearson secretly
constructs secret test shots of Round 2‘s Bat Missile and Batwing
SOME PEOPLE WOULD VIEW WITH JUSTIFIED CYNICISM In this case, I had two such delights to
THE POSSIBILITY OF A CHAP OF SOME SIXTY-SEVEN contemplate in the shape of the Round 2 re-
SUMMERS still enjoying the Christmas morning releases of both the AMT Bat Missile and the
feeling when opening a package but I find that Batwing from the Tim Burton Movies starring
same frisson of excitement when receiving a clear Michael Keaton.
plastic bag across which is written ‘First test shot’.

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This page: Batmissile Where to begin? fifty-one parts in all. As is usually the case with hot
parts. Chassis, wheels I confess that I do have a favourite and that’s the from the mould kits, there was a distinct absence
and suspension. Batwing and so, as with the traditional Pearson of instructions but what went where was
Contrast between raw approach to any meal involving sausages, I chose reasonably self-evident after a brief examination
plastic and airbrushed to save the best (the sausage, if you will) for last of the kit – with a significant exception.
area. Tamiya Smoke and began with the missile. This a strange and
tint to windscreen. somewhat barmy design as those of us who’ve seen Fearful symmetry
Dashboard primed. its movie manifestation might attest. When the movie Batmobile transforms into the
Painted instruments. The kit is 1:25 scale and moulded in black Bat Missile in order to negotiate a narrow back
Steering wheel and injected moulded plastic with three clear alley and escape the forces of law and order, it
controls. Seats detailed. components and eight vinyl tyres giving a total of sheds the outer sections and the wheel

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configuration changes and an additional four The secondary wheels are supported by external
wheels appear, these presumably hidden within the suspension and axle units and I needed to establish Silver undercoat to
body in anticipation of such an occasion. just where these went. As you might imagine there wheels. Silver paint to
The shape of the cockpit and windscreen also is no shortage of images of the Bat Missile on the suspension unit. Black
change (via some sort of bendy Bat-material, I Internet but there seemed to be some variation in weathering to wheel.
imagine) and the fact that the abandoned body the position of the secondary suspension. In many Suspension ink
panels contain two machine guns and ammunition cases the suspension was on the rear wheels of the weathered. Hand
is overlooked. All-in-all, I think utilisation of two pairs but in some it was on the front. This control added.
Batman’s legendary knowledge of his city’s streets applied to box art and some diecast toys. I tracked Finished suspension
might have been utilised to avoid all this fuss but down a screen shot from the movie where the unit. Seat in cockpit.
that wouldn’t have been such fun. Missile is viewed from the left where the Completed cockpit.

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Finished wheel. suspension was clearly on the front. would appear that his original concept was for the
Detailing to body. Eventually I found my way to Jay Ohrberg’s web Missile to run on just four wheels in-line, rather like
Close-up of body page [www.jayohrberg.com] and, as one would a motor cycle, which would make the transformation
detail. Turbine nose expect from a contribution by the man who actually by pivoting more logical. As a final aside I’d assumed,
needing some work. designed the vehicle, all became clear. The my memory of the movie being somewhat vague,
Intake detail. transformation of the wheels is achieved, in part, by that all this was done with model work but it appears
Cleaned-up nose with the road wheels pivoting in the centre of the axle so that the Bat Missile was also built as a full-sized
paint. Wheels and that, on one side, the wheel moves forward whilst on practical prop. And, on the subject of models…
tyres–note hub depth the other it moves back, whilst the secondary wheels
compared with front pop out from beneath the body. Looking at Any colour you like, as long as it’s black
tyres. Nose assembly. Mr. Ohrberg’s initial sketches and his commentary, it It’s my habit to prime any model I’m working on, be

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it plastic, resin or metal, before painting but in this leather effect by painting the basic matt black with
case I thought it would be interesting to see how I Johnson’s Pledge. The windscreen was airbrushed
got on simply airbrushing the body colour (semi- with Tamiya X0-19 Smoke.
gloss black for the most part) directly onto the black
plastic as I had the germ of an idea for some simple All together now
weathering and damage effects. That done and the Now I may be wrong here but I seem to recall that
paint given 24 hours to dry I picked out some the original kit was a Snap Fast job and it may be
details in the section above the back wheels in that this new version will be released in the same
thinned gunmetal acrylic, painted the suspension format or that it may be a more traditional Jet nozzle detail.
units in Games Workshop Boltgun Metal and a construction. Certainly some parts did snap into Differences between
metallic blue then detailed the dashboard, controls, place whilst some benefitted from a touch of inner hubs.
steering wheel and seat. For the seat I simulated a adhesive but, notwithstanding that consideration, Assembled model.

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I pressed ahead with the build in my usual ‘bull in supplied were of the same size in terms of both
a china shop’ fashion. Having glued the upper body width and diameter although the rear tyres (which
to the chassis I realised that I had forgotten to they fitted perfectly) are significantly wider that
include two small, clear porthole transparencies and those at the front. This meant that, in the latter
so gently prised the section apart, inserted the case, the wheels protruded from the tyres. This
missing windows and glued the thing back together. makes no cosmetic difference to the finished model
Holding the two sections together with rubber whatsoever but I found it worthwhile to fix these
bands, I realised that the front end could do with tyres in place with a bead of PVA to keep them in
a little more adhesive so ran some E.M.A. Plastic the correct position.
Weld liquid into the inner seams. This is great stuff
in the right circumstances: these were not the right Weather or not
circumstances. I suggested earlier that I had an idea for
weathering and had intended to give the Missile a
Hand me the filler…and the service revolver very ‘lived-in’ appearance. My reasoning was that
The thin formulation of Plastic Weld lets it flow there would be a distinct demarcation between the
along seams by capillary action but it will also areas of the Missile that were concealed within the
readily flow along the underside of rubber bands main body of the Batmobile and those that were
as I found when I removed one of these and found not, due to extra wear and tear on the latter. After
a couple of shallow trenches that the adhesive had some tentative experimentation I decided to
melted. This is the sort of basic error that abandon this idea as it was just going to look odd
experience should have taught me to avoid but, in and, anyway, it was probably better to just present
the event, it was a minor problem easily overcome a straight representation of what the kit buyer was
with the black formulation of Milliput, some fine going to find in the box.
abrasive paper and a re-spray.

Eight wheels on my wagon… FLY ME TO THE MOON

When I’d built the re-released Batmobile for a ICONIC IS A WORD SOMETIMES OVERUSED WITH
review (see Volume 39) I’d airbrushed some REGARD TO FILM SCENES but I would suggest that
chromed wheels with a thinned mix of the body the image of the Batwing silhouetted against a full
colour and wiped away that paint to reveal the logos moon qualifies for that description, showing the
at the wheels’ centres. The Missile didn’t feature noble aircraft in all its glory shortly before it was
chromed wheels but, to replicate the previous shot down by Jack Nicholson and his trick gun.
approach on the main wheels, I used NC-ACRYLIC I understand that the concept of the Batwing
Chrome by Montana-Cans [montana-cans.com] and replicating Batman’s emblem was from the mind
airbrushed the same thinned black on top of this, of Tim Burton but the model used in the movie
which was reasonably successful. was created by the late, great Derek Meddings.
For the secondary wheels, I used the Games This was the one I was really looking forward to
Workshop Boltgun Metal with lots of pigment as I hadn’t built the model before and, again, there
powder weathering. One point is worth making was the joy of being an early adopter as far as the
about the wheels, although I should stress that I re-release was concerned, if that’s not an
was building a test shot kit. All eight wheels oxymoron.

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Almost all present and correct make one and the second option sounded like it Batwing bits from the
The parts on their runners were carefully removed would be more fun. Having established that 1/16 bag.
from their bag and laid out for the compulsory inch thick plastic card would be about the right The twin of this part
(although not always used) ‘bits from the box’ gauge I used lengths of automotive masking tape will have to be
shot and it was immediately obvious that to trace the basic shapes required. The larger of scratchbuilt.
something had gone AWOL. This, specifically, was these had a very definite curve to it and it would Beginning the
part 10, an undercarriage wheel-bay door. As the probably have been easiest to coax the plastic into duplication process.
kit had passed through the Editor-in-Chief’s hands this shape using a heat source such as a hair dryer. First plastic card
I asked if he’d opened the bags, giving the part the As I don’t have much hair I don’t own one of these component ready
chance to escape: he had not. and, as the only woman I know well enough to ask Coaxing a curve.
The options were to ask the folks at Round 2 for a loan declared radio silence some months ago, Second component
back home in Indiana for a spare or to try and there would be difficulties. Of course hot water cut from plastic card.

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Second plastic card was an option but plastic is, by its very nature, work) a smooth transition, one to the other.
component added to plastic, so I took the cut shape and bent it carefully The only other part needed was a small
the first. Finished by hand and then placed it in a small vice (I have rectangular box where the door would join the
duplicate part. Mould a couple of these but the other one’s best not undercarriage leg and this was made using the
plugs need to be discussed in a family publication) and bent it same technique.
removed from tailfin. somewhat further. Leaving this overnight I was
Restored fin. pleased to discover that it seemed happy to retain The naming of parts
Test fit of upper and its new shape. The second element of the missing In the absence of an instruction sheet a study of
lower hulls. Batman door was more or less flat and this was cut and images of the Batwing ensued, followed by a careful
components attached to its curved chum using Plastic Weld examination of the parts supplied to ensure that I
- a nicely detailed with slivers of plastic card melted into the join for knew what went where. As with the Bat Missile kit,
figure. added strength and to create (following some file very little clean-up was required, although there

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were some mould plug gates on the fins that The chameleon effect Cockpit detail.
required attention using wet and dry abrasive paper. Having applied the first coat of the paint I was Positioning Batman's
Having successfully skipped the primer stage reminded of one of the qualities that grey often arms... ...then adding
with the Bat Missile and with storm front Abigail manifests as a shade. As it has been some decades filler. Weathering
blowing in, precluding any work with a rattle can since my art school days (a vain attempt to test. Cockpit with
outdoors, I was going for the same paint onto emulate my talented maternal grandfather) it was spirit marker framing.
plastic approach but after a minor clean-up of timely that I had just watched a video linked via Night vision unit...
some parts the storm veered north, the weather Jason Gares’ blog on the SF&FM website. This ...with Kristal Klear
improved and so it was back to the rattle can covered painting techniques and tips for the lenses. These will dry
primer and car paint route, choosing Halfords Millennium Falcon and is by one Steve Dymszo, clear. Bats takes the
Volvo Dark Grey for the finish. who is both well informed and very funny. controls.

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Batwing cockpit Mr. Dymszo mentions the above quality that greys Put it together and what have you got?
completed. Wing possess, inasmuch as they will take on some of the Assembling the model was quite straightforward
lights and, for a time, shade or colour adjacent to them. and is best illustrated by the images accompanying
mysterious lenses. In the case of the car paint I was using, I found these words but there was the matter of working out
Gluing and clamping that I was getting more than a hint of brown in what went where and, as importantly, in what order.
the main components. the finish which was a concern until I realised that The cockpit and Batman figure were an obvious
Mini-gun mounted on I was viewing it from outside my house and the next step whilst the paint was drying thoroughly on
hatch. Nose wheel. paint was picking up the colour of the the fuselage and wing halves. The cockpit interior
Mystery lenses in surrounding brickwork both by optical osmosis was given a misting of flat black whilst the seat was
position. Weathering and reflection. painted in the same acrylic but with the upholstered
under wings. areas brush-painted in semi-gloss black.

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The Batman figure came in six parts and his pastels of various hues and these were fine until I
arms, which need to be positioned holding the hit them with a purity seal, at which point they
control column (I believe that the technical term is disappeared. The second, and perhaps most
yoke) so lumps of Blu Tack held the controls in obvious, option was to airbrush but I was not sure
place while I glued the arms. With these in position that I had the delicacy of touch for this.
some modest filling was needed and he was ready The answer was to go to the pub and have a
for painting in the semi-gloss black with a matt think. Having thought, I found a 4B pencil and
black cape and yellow and titanium gold for logo rubbed this on some 500 grit abrasive paper to
and utility belt respectively. It’s worth noting that create fine graphite powder which I applied to
the figure is a rather good rendering of the selected panels with a square-ended sable brush.
Michael Keaton Batman and a little care in clean- This worked rather well but there was the same
up of seams and painting will pay dividends. problem when the purity seal was applied. It then
There was quite a bit of moulded detail within occurred to me that this didn’t really matter as I
the cockpit, particularly on the side panels, was likely to be the only person handling the
although on the front control panel this was less model and, if anybody else poked around with it,
pronounced. I imagine decals will be provided I would be in a prime position to trace the
with the release version of the kit but I went for miscreant through their fingerprints. In other
brush painting. Included with the cockpit words I could miss out the sealer stage if I took
components was a night-vision/aiming device and care with the finished model.
I was unsure where this fitted until I had a look at
the finished (original) kit on the Fantastic Plastic Interesting symmetry
website [fantastic-plastic.com]. The sight itself had Once the main assembly, in the sequence described
two holes that line up with Batman’s eyes and above, was completed I turned my attention to the
these were filled with Microscale Micro Kristal upper wing panels and made an interesting
Klear painted in clear red when dry. discovery. Whilst the lower wing panels were
In terms of the overall assembly, once the symmetrical, those on the upper wing were not. I
cockpit was installed, the correct steps seemed to assume that this reflects the situation with the
be to fit the lower wing halves to the lower body, actual movie prop and, similarly, assume that it
then fit the upper wing halves and then fit the
upper body. I should add here that the fit was
excellent. Before doing this I test-fitted the
undercarriage legs and painted these and fitted the
wheels, finished in tyre black and aluminium.
The kit is provided with the balloon-sniping
jaws used in the movie and these appeared to be a
retractable working part although I chose not to
use them as the access doors looked better closed.
At this stage I had just two parts that I couldn’t
identify. These were on the clear plastic runners
and were clearly (sorry about the pun) intended to
be lenses, although where they went was a
mystery.

Picking out the panels

Whilst I had ready access to the unassembled
lower wings, it seemed a good time to look at
weathering and bringing out some of the details
and this called for some subtlety – not always my
strong suit. During my early internet researches I
had come across several examples of the finished
kit and, indeed, there’s an image of a splendid
build-up of this very kit by Jim Small on page 6,
volume 39 of this very publication. The challenge
was to try and emulate some of these.
My first experiments were with grey and blue

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reflects a design decision by Mr. Meddings. which is why I’m typing this one-handed whilst the
Perhaps his thought process was that sections of other hand does that little finger to mouth gesture
the Batwing would be sourced from different favoured by Dr. Evil) and a Gatling-type mini-gun
manufacturers and assembled in the dark recesses in a neat fold away panel that actually works: the
of Wayne Manor in order to conceal their destiny. panel, not the gun. What fun!
On the other hand it could have been because the Last of all there’s a dome base with Bat logo and
overall effect looks rather cool, as I believe you stand which I assembled and painted but didn’t
young people say. use. A couple (literally) of other points were two
The final stages of the assembly now took place panels in the upper wing which are either dive
with no real mishaps. The edges of the cockpit brakes or control surfaces and I fitted these in a
canopies and the framings were outlined using a slightly raised position as they might have been
Sharpie spirit marker (the main cockpit canopy used during take-off or landing as the model had
needed to be sandwiched between the back of the been built with the undercarriage down.
inner cockpit and the upper fuselage half so that One final observation, or rather question, is
the cockpit can open) and this approach was also how would the thing fly? Clearly there are no
taken with the clear wing light inserts. On the propellers but neither are there intakes or exhausts
subject of clear inserts, the mystery of the two for jet engines. Still, it’s only make believe and the
small lenses had been solved when weathering the design itself is superb and, well, cool as a very cool
underside of the model, as these were obviously thing.
landing lights situated forward of the main wheel
wells. Review test shots kindly supplied by
Round 2
Bang: you’re dead! www.round2models.com
The Batwing is liberally supplied with weaponry:
two wing-mounted machine guns, rockets,
forward-mounted lasers (I assume they’re lasers,

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THIS PUBLICATION IS THE GIFT THAT JUST KEEPS but I should stress that these were not the final
GIVING AND I SAY THAT NOT ONLY AS A READER (BE IT words on the subject so any comments I make
EVER A BIASED ONE) but also as one of the regular regarding said instructions should be viewed in
modellers. A little time ago the Editor-in-Chief that light.
asked me if I would like to produce a review of the Rather than work from the jpegs on-screen it
latest iteration of the Batmobile from Moebius. To seemed logical to have print-outs produced and so
say that I jumped at the chance would be to it was off to the local print and copy shop for A2
underestimate my reaction. paper versions of all but the overall master
Armed with an anonymous box of components drawing which was locked, perhaps
and with several jpegs winging their way through understandably, with some sort of security
the ether, I headed for home and cleared the decks protocol.
in anticipation. As with many test-shot review kits It’s perhaps stating the obvious but we don’t all
there were no instructions in the traditional sense share the same interests and, having printed out
as this was some months before the kit (and, the first drawing, the young lady serving me asked
indeed, the movie) was to be released, so much of what the subject was. I, of course, went into ‘Can
what I had was a work in progress. The you keep a secret?’ mode in order to build up the
aforementioned jpegs provided exploded diagrams excitement. I then explained that it was an as yet
of the vehicle up to completion of the rolling unreleased model from a forthcoming superhero
chassis, an image of the finished Batmobile and blockbuster movie so was, to some extent, still
there was a written step-by-step instruction sheet under wraps. ‘Oh!’ she replied, obviously

LOW SLUNG SWEET CHARIOT

Andy Pearson builds the Dawn of Justice Batmobile by Moebius
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Top to bottom:
Bat bits from the box.
Engine components.
Assembled engine
block.
Engine and transaxle
in position test.
Engine with paint.
Engine and transaxle
with paint and
weathering.
Front axle and
suspension.
Side panel test fit
interior view.
Side panels test fit.
Suspension units.
Engine bulkheads.
Suspension and axle
detail.

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Top to bottom: underwhelmed. ‘I’m not really into that sort of

Interior detail stuff,’ and wandered off to print out the rest of the
showing side panel material.
components. Back at base I gave all the parts a clean with
Suspension detail. methylated spirit then applied a coat of grey
Fender and disc brake automotive primer and, whilst that was drying,
detail. began an internet search for as many alternative
Internal weathering images of the new Batmobile as I could find. My
to fenders. primary concern at this point was to try and
Seam removal and establish the finish I needed to achieve and,
weathering to initially, there was some confusion.
foreground tyre. First of all I came across a brief clip showing a
Wheel and tyre walk-round of the car set in a suitably moody,
components. mist-shrouded alley. This provided some superb
detail but indicated that this Batmobile had a quite
bright aluminium finish which didn’t seem very
Dark Knight-ish. I then found a clip of a chap who
might have been a younger Lucius Fox or perhaps
his son sitting in the same (or very similar) shiny
vehicle. Perhaps that was another ‘Does it come in
black?’ moment in the new movie. At about the
same time another image was discovered which
professed to be the first official image of the
Batmobile and that looked rather more the part,
being a dark grey and looking somewhat lived-in.
I’ve rarely been a ‘build, mask and paint’
merchant so my plan was to put a base colour on
as much of the model as possible before any
building took place. This began with an
application of aluminium automotive paint from a
rattle can to the chassis, engine, transaxle and
various other components which, as explained
below, caused some minor problems. I then mixed
a basic body colour using Tamiya Flat Black and
blue-black to produce a very dark grey, a shade
somewhat darker than that in which the model
would be finally finished but there was some
method in this approach.
I’d learned many years ago that dark, flat shades
tend to reflect subsequent handling in their finish
so using such a shade, without a purity seal of
some sort, would give me some free weathering.
The downside of having used the aluminium under
some of these parts meant that hints of that
metallic paint migrated to the dark grey surfaces. I
suppose this must have been the nature of the
paint and wasn’t too much of a problem as I
would be addressing the overall finish of the model
once assembled.
The first assembly stages were to put the engine
and transaxle together and fix these in place on the
chassis along with the exhaust, itself a two-part
assembly. It seemed logical to add weathering to
these parts whilst they were fully accessible and
this was done with very thin washes of dark iron

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acrylic, black inks and some black and dark brown

pigment powders.
As you may imagine, not having a detailed
visual guide as to what went where meant rather
more dry assembly that will probably be necessary
with the commercially available kit but this
approach did pay dividends as, in my experience,
it invariably does.
Next came the assembly of the front suspension
which was to be put together and test-fitted to the
lower chassis but not glued in place. The two
engine bulkheads were next and the correct fixing
of these parts, which would be concealed on the
finished model, was most important, as they
provide support to part of the Batmobile’s body.
The left and right body panels (three of each)
were next on the fixing list and these were
subjected to a good deal of test-fitting as, whilst
they nested with each other beautifully,
discovering the correct way of coaxing them into
position required some practice. The front
suspension brace was then fitted (but not glued)
into holes in the relevant body panels and then, in
turn, glued to the upper front suspension.
The assembly of the wheels and tyres came next
and these had their own particular areas of
interest. The wheel hubs, both front and rear, were
very detailed and very recessed from the rims so a
combination of airbrush and conventional sable
brush was used here. The first coat of paint was
gunmetal, followed by a dry-brush application of
metallic grey and the lightest touch of titanium
silver. When this was dry, dark grey pigment
powders were used to bring out the detail and add
weathering.
Soft vinyl tyres were supplied – and great lumps
of things these were – but with really good and
deep tread patterns. They had, of course, been
born in a mould so that meant some very subtle
seams needed to be removed from the tread areas
and that entailed killing two birds with one stone.
Even when newly fitted in real life, tyres tend to
lose their pristine finish in no time at all, so these
needed some wear and tear added and that was Contrast between
done using very fine abrasive papers, removing the weathered and un-
aforementioned seams at the same time, followed weathered wheels.
by an application of dust and dirt from some of Drives pre-
the more neglected corners of my work bench. weathering.
Having mentioned the nature of real car tyres I Running light detail.
do have a neighbour who spends an inordinate Fender and wheel
amount of time cleaning his car and still applies a assembly.
restorative finish to his tyres. He also removes the Clear headlights
wheels to re-touch and polish the red disc callipers masked for paint.
which seems to be above and beyond the call of Machine guns and
duty to me but each to his own. mounts.

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Lower front wing and

armament.
Rear view of chassis.
Further transaxle
detail.
Overview of rolling
chassis.
Dashboard decals and
detail.
Windshield detail.
Finished seats.
Front wings and
actuators.
Lower intakes in
position.
Temporary fit whilst
gluing.
Initial test fit of rear
wing supports.
View of cockpit.

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On the subject of disc brakes, these were the Top to bottom:

next items to be addressed along with the assembly Support assembly.
of the front fenders. The discs were airbrushed in Test fit of wing
silver then weathered and the callipers, in supports.
deference to my neighbour, brush painted in gloss Upper intake body
red. section.
The front wheels and fenders were glued in place Lower left wing glued
on the front axle and a similar procedure covered in place.
the rear axle, with the addition here of two drive First stage colour
housings which needed painting and weathering to treatment.
match the exposed transaxle. Inner side panel
The first stages in the upper body assembly were detailing.
the building of the machine guns (No more Mr.
Nice-guy!) and the five-part front wing, both of Opposite:
which would be fitted to the upper body panel. Initial weathering
Here the production drawing provided a hint of and colour test.
things (potentially) to come. The machine guns sit
on a circular mount and the drawings show a
secondary and, in this case, mysterious redundant
part. In addition to running lights (painted clear
orange on top of titanium lens colour) on the front
fenders, there were two small headlights. These
were completely clear components so the lens area
was masked and each airbrushed overall in
titanium silver, followed by the dark grey body
colour.
The cockpit, with seats, controls and dashboard
was next. The cockpit interior was airbrushed in a
lighter grey than the main bodywork and the seats
airbrushed in flat black but with the areas I
deemed would be leather brush painted with
Pledge floor polish to give them something of a
gloss finish. There was a fair amount of moulded
detail on the dashboard and it’s quite possible that
the final kit will be supplied with complementary
decals for this. In this case I hit the spares file and
found a decal that fitted a circular panel perfectly
along with a couple of solid colour strips that
could be cut to fit one screen and partially fill a
blank area that looked as though it could use some
company – and to **** with accuracy.
I also found some tiny dial decals which were
added, all of the above going on top of an
airbrushed coat of gloss acrylic in order to avoid
silvering. Once dry, all was given a top coat of
Games Workshop Satin Purity Seal.
With the interior completed, the hood panel
upper and lower parts were glued together and
had their individual activators (painted metallic
grey and silver) added. I haven’t a clue what either
of those parts actually does unless they are
additional spoilers to help keep the Batmobile on
the ground at high speed or perhaps they are just
there because they look good: I suspect the latter.
The reference images I’d found showed the

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needed time and care and a lot of test-fitting to the

chassis assembly as the work proceeded. I’ll
mention one specific here, if only so that the reader
can avoid a mistake that I made: regular readers
will be aware that such an error is almost a
tradition with my builds.
Part #9 is a centre bar which connects the left
and right centre wing support braces and it’s
important to ensure that this is fitted in the upright
position. In my eagerness to ensure that it lined up
with the braces and that these fitted the holes in
the chassis I allowed it to pivot slightly from the
vertical. Now this wasn’t the end of the world but
I didn’t notice my error until the next stage in the
build and having it correctly positioned would
windshield to have a very dark tint so this was have made life a lot easier and, more importantly,
built up using Tamiya X-19 Smoke on the inside would have made the model that little bit more
which produces a really good tinted glass effect accurate. Having said that, the uninitiated would
but takes forever (figuratively speaking) to dry, as be hard pressed to notice the anomaly.
evidenced by a rather nice fingerprint supplied by It was during the next steps in the build that I
yours truly which required some attention. deliberately strayed from the prescribed order of
The end now seemed to be in sight as far as things. As I suggested, there was quite a complex
construction was concerned but the most complex of supports for the rear wings and, when fitting
procedures were to follow. One of the many these to the chassis, the instructions suggest using
distinctive features of the machine are two rear the lower wing halves to ensure that they are
wings which sit upon a complex of bars and correctly positioned. This is, in my opinion, vital.
braces. These were relatively easy to construct but With most of these supports in position and with

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my error with part #9 corrected by the application I would beg to differ. In addition to the various
of gap-filling superglue, the instructions suggest wing supports that fit into the lower wing halves,
cementing the upper body to the lower body and there are left and right coils and wing braces to be
then gluing the wing support assemblies to the added beneath the wings. I found that by again
transaxle and the engine bulkheads. Frankly I using the lower wing as a positioning guide and
couldn’t make this work but did, eventually, using some blobs of Blu Tack as temporary
manage to accomplish the step by bringing the adhesives I could get everything lined-up and then
supports and the body together by sort of a glue the supports into the lower wing. When this
simultaneous and very stealthy manoeuvre. assembly was completely set in position, adding
Imagine the incremental crawl of an adolescent’s the upper wing halves was very easy as the fit was
hand along the back of his first date’s cinema seat perfect. Doing the same thing ‘blind’ with the
and you’ll perhaps appreciate the subtlety. Not to upper wing half in position would, I think, be
over-extend the metaphor, there were several rather more difficult.
attempts and rejections before satisfactory contact The final stages were the addition of the left and
was made. right hood actuators and the canopy which I push-
The instructions next tell the modeller to glue fitted rather than gluing so that the interior could
the upper and lower wing halves together and here be displayed if required.

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Review test shot kindly

supplied by
Moebius Models.
www.moebiusmodels.com

And so to the final painting and weathering. to tell, none of these folk had any particular
Using my airbrush and the original dark grey paint interest in models but all declared that the new
mix, I touched up the areas where stray traces of Batmobile was very impressive indeed. Those
the aluminium (see paragraph 7) occurred and, comments related to the design, by the way, not
once these were dry, began to look at subtle colour my modelling skills and the opinion of the
changes, weathering and indications of wear. professionals is yet to be sought.
At various times during the build I had
continued my search for images of the new
Batmobile online and my most recent find had
been the delivery of the beast itself to, I think, a
studio tour venue. If you will forgive the use of a
local dialect phrase: ‘It ain’t ’alf mucky!’ It was
also a rather lighter grey that I’d painted the
bodywork but I had made allowances for that.
I use artist’s pastels for subtle (or as subtle as I
get) skin tones on sculpted figures and intended to
use the same approach here. To that end I’d
bought a quite broad, flat and very soft brush and
now used that to apply lighter grey pastel powders
to the dark grey body, building the shade up until
it looked a much better match. To state the
obvious, this needed to be done in daylight but the
technique also added some weathering effects and
highlighted some of the panels and lines. I also
applied some graphite dust from a 4B pencil to
some of the corners and the visible mechanical
areas on the side panels and outer rear fenders,
hopefully keeping things on the right side of filthy
but only just.
With the model nearing completion I took a
photograph on my phone to show to a friend who
had expressed an interest and ran into him at a
small gathering of friends and neighbours. Truth

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05-Blakes Seven London_Eagle Ad_pp54-61_scififantasyModeller 14/03/2016 13:39 Page 54

IN THE OPENING EPISODES OF BLAKE’S 7, FRAMED assembling the London from Perspex sheet Opposite top to
POLITICAL DISSIDENT ROJ BLAKE, sentenced to be detailed with styrene and plastic kit parts, bottom:
deported to the prison planet Cygnus Alpha, sets including pieces from the famous Airfix girder The four stub wings
out on his enforced journey aboard the prison ship bridge kit which had helped detail a great many and base.
London, where he first meets thief Vila Restal, Thunderbirds models. Underside view with
smuggler Jenna Stannis, murderer Olag Gan and wings glued in place.
computer engineer Kerr Avon. All manner of ‘The design of the craft featured (in theory) Rear underside -
interstellar low-budget hi jinks subsequently removable container units and a travelling engines added.
ensue, resulting in Blake and his new ‘crew’ taking crane arrangement which would have Further underside
control of an alien ship they dub the Liberator and lifted the units out,’ states Simon at detailing to rear
pursuing the London to Cygnus Alpha... www.hermit.org/b7/Essays/London.html. ‘There wings.
was a pylon at the front of the craft to support the Top panels are
Created by Space Models of Feltham, pole from which the crane hung, this was added – note gaps
Middlesex, UK, who had also built the sublime fabricated from brass and soldered together. As far that require filling.
Eagle miniatures for Space:1999, the London as I remember the idea was that the ship had been Gaps between base
studio miniature was based on a sketch and converted from a cargo craft into a prison ship by and rear super-
cardboard mock-up produced by the show’s Art the Federation. structure also need
Director Ian Scoones, and was built by model addressing.
maker Simon Atkinson who developed working ‘The model had two holes drilled underneath for Top rear engines and
drawings from the sketch and rough model before the inclusion of the pyrotechnic charges that crane gantries in
place.

PRISON BLAKE
Building the London studio scale kit from Titan Find
Mike Reccia

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05-Blakes Seven London_Eagle Ad_pp54-61_scififantasyModeller 14/03/2016 13:40 Page 56

would simulate the rockets used for launch (I therefore responded enthusiastically when a studio
remember we had lots of fun setting one of those scale review kit of the London was offered to this
off with a blow-torch!) Following completion the title by Titan Find, who have made a number of
model was finished in matt white. I understand Blake’s 7 ships available as kits in recent years.
that following the delivery of the model to the
client Martin (Bower – Ed.) did some extra This is the largest so far, weighing in at an
detailing work and added undercarriage prior to impressive, studio-scaled 15.5 inches long by 13
filming. I was also asked to build a tiny version of inches wide by 8 inches tall once assembled. It’s
the London for shots where it came across the also the heaviest, cast in its entirety in resin, with
huge Liberator for the first time.’ the ‘crane pole’ proving the only exception, this
part being supplied as a length of plastic tube that
Studio scale London needs cutting to size. Almost all parts need some Below left:
Fondly remembered by a legion of fans, Blake’s 7 clean up of edges and/or removal from their thin additional detailing
first aired in 1978, and I recall eagerly viewing resin backing, although most of this is a simple to rear gantry,
footage of the London spaceship miniature during matter and there are no real challenges or Below right: girder
the first episode... and being completely frustrations involved in the process. bridge parts to sides
underwhelmed. This ‘flying brick’ was a far cry of cargo containers
from the Star Wars spaceship designs of the Assembly is pretty straightforward too, and circular detaing
previous year’s hit movie and the fabulous Eagle beginning with the lower level of the ship, to to tops.
spacecraft seen in 1974 and ’76 in two series of which the London’s four stubby wings and two Bottom left:
Space: 1999... underside rear engines must be attached. It is Gaps above wing
recommended that, for strength, the wings be filled prior to
Over the years, however, I’ve rather warmed to pinned to the base with lengths of brass rod (not priming.
the London. It has a no-nonsense, brutal, supplied). Working to deadline, however, I Bottom right: work
utilitarian look, with a chunky, heavily panelled sidestepped this fiddly procedure, using time- begins to hide gaps
hull – the ship has been designed to fulfil its saving two-part epoxy instead, the engine parts at rear with
purpose rather than win any beauty contests. I being attached with superglue. additional panelling.

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Next up are the landing gear legs, the two rear down once hard to blend in with the contours of
wing underside thrusters and the eight rectangular the ship. In tackling the rear section gaps the
details that attach to the trailing edges of the rear amount of raised detailing made the effective use
wings. No problems here – each of the parts of filler awkward and so, as many of the panels are
located well and was simply superglued in an approximation of what was featured on the
position. I initially had some concerns that the original miniature rather than an exact panel by
relatively flimsy-looking resin undercarriage legs panel reproduction, I hid the gaps by gluing small
and feet would not be capable of taking the weight rectangular sections of plasticard over them to
of the body without buckling or twisting, but these represent further panelling.
worries happily proved to be without foundation,
the four slim appendages to date supporting the A number of ‘deck plate’ patterned walkway
London’s bulk admirably. strips need to be knifed out of their thin resin
surrounding sheet and superglued on the top face
Hull breach... hull breach! of the base to but up against the upper housings.
With the base completed the two hollow upper These not only added detail to the ship, but helped
body housing parts could be attached. Again it is to hide the lesser gaps that existed between base
recommended that these be pinned to the base, and upper housings on the side sections of the
and again I instead used two-part epoxy as a rapid London.
alternative to the pinning process. With the upper
housings in place sizeable gaps could be seen Getting the London look
around the front of the ship between the base and I vaguely remember a ‘functioning’ airlock
upper housing, around the join between the two sequence from the show featuring a strange,
upper sections and between the rear base to upper ‘snaky’ tube worming out of the London’s body
housing joins – and I do mean sizeable... up to from the rear section. On the kit the airlock door
2mm in some cases. I therefore mixed a generous ‘ends’ of these tubes are represented by two parts
amount of P38 car body filler and trowelled this each, and these were quickly added to the rear
into the lower front section crevices, sanding it section without incident or need for filler.
05-Blakes Seven London_Eagle Ad_pp54-61_scififantasyModeller 14/03/2016 13:40 Page 58

Completing the assembly involved the this stage the two ‘London’ waterslide decals
positioning and gluing of the rear upper engines, provided were oversprayed with Citadel Purity
the upper cockpit section, the ‘water tower’ (as it Seal (the instructions recommend they be given a
is described in the instructions and much reference further sealant coat) and applied to the large front
to the London miniature – it is actually the panels to either side of the ship. Following a
travelling crane pylon) and the adding of the dusting of Purity Seal and working inside on a
circular details that sit top centre across each of very dark February day I next set about
the cargo sections plus the girder bridge parts that weathering the ship with MIG Pigment Streaking
are positioned centrally across the sides of each Effects Streaking Grime, applying it where filth
container unit. It should be noted that the raised and muck would likely accumulate on a long
circular positioning motifs on the tops of the cargo unwashed, atmosphere-capable ‘tub’.
section are not in line on the kit, and that the
circular details one adds to them therefore need to As evening fell the weathering effect looked
be adjusted accordingly so that they form a great. As morning dawned, it didn’t. Darn this
straight line when viewed from the top of the ship. gloomy time of year! In the relatively clear light of
the following day the Streaking Grime seemed to
A final touch was to position the delicate rear sit above the base colour rather than be an integral
crane gantry (this snapped into three pieces as I part of the overall weathering effect. It looked too
was filing away the resin between the girder brown for my liking too. I therefore oversprayed
sections and had to be superglued back together) the entire model lightly with Humbrol Matt
then add the cut down length of plastic tubing so White, which knocked back the Grime and gave it
that it located in the depression on the rear face of a much more integrated, realistic appearance.
the front pylon, rested top centre across the rear Then, using a folded sheet of paper as a hard edge
gantry, and connected to the rear engine block. I streaked the ship with the Matt Grey Primer to
Studying what shots of the original miniature I suggest further scoring lines and panelling. At the
could find on the net there appeared to be a end of this session I was far happier that the ship’s
rectangular section that the crane pole threaded revised paint job more closely resembled that of
through and which sat top centre on the gantry, the original miniature.
plus there were a couple of rectangular detail parts
on the top face of the gantry to extreme left and The London sports what look like two ‘window’
right. These parts are not supplied with the kit and areas – a black rectangle at the front of the ship
so were created from plastic spares box pieces and a second located on the ‘engine tower’ behind
suitably modified. the rear gantry. My final move was to replicate
these by spraying lengths of scrap adhesive label
Let me take you through the streaks of London paper surround matt black, measuring the indents
With the London completely assembled I primed on the model, cutting out rectangles to appropriate
and pre-shaded the entire ship with a spray of size and applying them to the model within the
Humbrol grey model primer. I then applied a top depressions.
coat of Ford Diamond White (left over from my
AMT 22-inch Eagle kit build) so that just enough And there she sat... Squat. Grimy. Dirty...
of the underlying grey showed through to dull Finished (well - not quite, as it turned out - please
down the white and give depth to the panelling. At see postscript below)!

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A capital enterprise? the gaps between upper and lower bodies, but
This is an unusual subject, well sculpted by these can be eliminated fairly quickly and without
esteemed modelling maestro Alfred Wong. It’s an too much fuss if you’re happy to use filler and
impressively scaled model too. Some of the small possess reasonable modelling skills. At $275.00
panel detailing differs from the original but to (£191 at time of going to press) this kit will likely
expect every single panel to be replicated exactly only appeal to the serious Blake’s 7/studio scale
would be unreasonable. I could have done without modeller... but then it does deliver you an awful lot

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05-Blakes Seven London_Eagle Ad_pp54-61_scififantasyModeller 14/03/2016 13:42 Page 60

of resin (and nostalgia) for your buck, and builds The result was a far grittier version of the
into an unusual and striking replica. London – great fun to produce, and far more
satisfying to look at as a representation of a beaten
Postscript up old spacegoing cargo vessel. Brilliant!
It’s always the way... you’re right on deadline with
an article... the presses are being brought up to Review kit kindly supplied by Titan Find.
speed... and suddenly some new information For further details email:
becomes available. In visiting aforementioned Titanfind@gmail.com
model maker and illustrator Simon Atkinson’s
excellent site simonatkinsoncreativearts.webs.com
I discovered in his model-making section a shot of
the original London miniature, which he created,
that I hadn’t seen before. Although fairly low res,
this clearly revealed, allowing for the age of the
model, a far dirtier and rusted beast than I’d
portrayed at weathering stage with my build. It
was therefore back to the eleventh hour drawing
board where I added copious amounts of MIG
Pigments Streaking Rust and Streaking Grime to
the craft. I then brush painted the walkways
around the centre of the London in a mid grey,
dirtying them down with the aforementioned
streaking agents, painted the Saturn V kitbashed
pieces that sit on top of the slab-like sections at the
front of the ship at both sides in silver, picked out
the four raised rectangles that skirt the airlock
tubes in orange, then attacked the ship with fine
grade sandpaper to further streak and distress it.

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05-Blakes Seven London_Eagle Ad_pp54-61_scififantasyModeller 14/03/2016 13:43 Page 61

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13 Modelling:
06-22inch Eagle pt 2_pp62-69_scififantasyModeller 14/03/2016 13:45 Page 62

The
Eagle
Has
Landed

Mike Reccia builds the new 22-inch MPC Space:1999 Eagle kit
Part two of two
LOOSELY BASED ON THE HEAD OF A GRASSHOPPER, never referred to or seen in operation in the series)
THE DECIDEDLY INSECTOID ‘BEAK’ OF THE SPACE:1999 complete the line-up.
EAGLE is one of its most iconic features, bringing
an organic quality to Brian Johnson’s inspired Black waterslide decals are provided for the
design and making the Eagle a Space:1999 four indented ‘pie slice’ sections of the beak
character in its own right. that protrude forwards from the windows
(two decals per section), but as I was
This section is recreated in the new MPC 22- assembling a test shot of the kit these were not
inch kit via the bringing together of top and available to me until later in the build when
bottom halves, four transparent window parts, a the command module had already been
one piece rear section and an interior comprising completed. Besides, I felt that it would be
a detailed bulkhead, two pilots and two strut better to paint these black sections onto the
pieces that connect the figures to the rear wall via model as I personally worry about large decal
slots in their backs and position them at the panels peeling or flaking or becoming subject
correct height so that their heads can be seen to damage over time, regarding paint as a
through the windows. The four circular attitude tougher, more permanent option, although it
thruster dishes (or whatever these actually are – takes a little more preparation and time to
their function has never been revealed and was achieve a comparable finish.

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My first move was to glue the beak halves The beak has been designed so that the front
together and lightly sand back the hardly half push-fits against the rear, and can be left
perceptible central join line created by doing so unglued if desired so that the modeller can be the
before priming the beak front and its rear section. envy of his or her friends as he or she deftly
After priming I treated everything to a coat of removes it to reveal the inner bulkhead and pilot
Ford Diamond White auto spray, carefully figures. This bulkhead beautifully replicates the
masking off the areas that needed to be black once detailing of the full-size set (no mean feat, as the
this was dry then spraying these with Tamiya proportions of the live action set differ
Matt Black acrylic. considerably from the proportions of the studio
miniatures) with its central doorway flanked by
Recreating a first-season subtle pattern of various panels and grills, and it was this that I set
contrast panels on the beak as closely as I could I about painting next. A note here: to be strictly
masked off the approximate area of each panel accurate the modeller may wish to substitute a
and sprayed these with a mid grey. I then dusted simple replacement scratchbuilt bulkhead with
over the grey areas with the Diamond White to minimalist simple raised block detailing, the whole
lighten them and tie them in to the rest of the thing painted in orange with a couple of black
paintwork. vertical bands to the side of each pilot figure –
sliced off at the torso – as per the interior of the
At this stage I could add the window panels. Each 44-inch studio miniature. The new kit’s version is
is an excellent, tight push-fit into its respective far more ambitious and accurate to the fictional
position, so it was simply a matter of masking the world of the series, however. and only the most
raised ‘window frame’ on each piece and priming zealous Space:1999 modeller is likely to plump for
this before spraying it with the Diamond White the former, more austere option, methinks.
then securing each window in place with the tiniest
drop of glue to its bottom edge where it locates I felt that the tan/mushroom grey the test shot
against a slot inside the beak front. was moulded in was serendipitous in that it

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06-22inch Eagle pt 2_pp62-69_scififantasyModeller 14/03/2016 13:46 Page 65

replicated the base colour of the Eagle cockpit rear Having fixed the pilots to their struts and the
wall perfectly, so I simply sprayed this with Citadel struts to the rear bulkhead I glued the bulkhead to
Purity Seal to disguise its plastic origins and give it the inside of the rear beak part and test-fitted the
a slight sheen before masking the door area and front of the beak over the assembly, only to
various panels and spraying or brush painting discover that a formerly perfect push-fit was now
them in their respective colours. Number roundels snagged by the edges of the bulkhead. I therefore
are provided for the centre of the door (a decal carefully removed the part from the beak rear and
sheet had, by this time, been express-mailed to me sanded down its edges until the front would fit
hot from the presses courtesy of Round 2... I chose over it without catching on it.
the ‘1’, naturally) and the decal was duly applied.
Following some subtle shading with MIG A final move for this section was to push-fit the
Pigments to bring out the depressions in the door, beak rear into the four docking clamps on the
door surround and the tiles to either side of it, the front cage section (alternatively you can glue this
bulkhead was again sprayed with Purity Seal to tie in place – you will, however, permanently cover up
everything together and seal in the decal. the access door to the walkway if you do so).

Next up were the pilots, these being half scale Whether to weather
representations of the Gemini kit astronaut figures Despite appearing to be mostly white on screen
used in the 44-inch studio miniatures. Following (with the obvious black and silver bits, of course),
the brush-painting of the orange suits, yellow the Eagle does, in fact, sport quite a number of
helmets, seat belts and flesh of faces and hands, I panels in contrast light and mid greys and blue-
picked out their chest packs in white before greys, plus panel lines over all the surfaces of the
applying the tiny decals provided over these, plus beak, leg pods and central pod, with a huge
the shoulder badges to right and left arms (the amount of decals of varying sizes to detail
amount of detail this kit offers is remarkable). everything off.

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06-22inch Eagle pt 2_pp62-69_scififantasyModeller 14/03/2016 13:46 Page 66

The first decision I made was not to include the orange rectangles that adorn each leg pod
panel lining. At this scale I felt it wasn’t necessary, plus certain of the larger fuel tanks (these
and I would have struggled to find a sufficiently were originally adhesive Sasco office year
thin lining pen (come back Rotring, we need you!). planning system labels on the 44-inch
I decided instead to add as many of the grey panels miniatures), the symbols originally supplied
as I could, and, poring over as much reference as I by Letraset and intended to denote sinks and
could find, I created these via a variety of methods, baths on architectural drawings and
in that some were masked off and sprayed on, blueprints, and the ‘commas’ and ‘full stops’
others were brush-painted on, and a select few (also originally by Letraset from various of
were added as decals as a result of applying subtle their typeface sheets) featured extensively on
grey and blue-grey areas cut from decals found in the beak, leg pods and passenger pod. These
the spares box. were carefully applied according to reference
shots of the original miniature found on the
The decal sheet accompanying the kit offers net, then everything was sealed in with sprays
a wealth of detailing, including the distinctive of Satin Purity Seal.

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06-22inch Eagle pt 2_pp62-69_scififantasyModeller 14/03/2016 13:46 Page 67

The Production Kit

Before you even open the box there is the
excitement of the cover art to take in – a
beautiful rendition of a couple of Eagles over
Alpha painted by Round 2’s own Jamie Hood
– give that man a rise, Round 2! Would also
be great to see this offered as a poster at some
stage – I want this on my wall, framed.
Within the large box the production Eagle
differs from the test shot only in small ways.
The crispness of parts has been ramped up, the
foot pads are now two-part upper and lower
half assemblies, and the pads, pod feet, engine
assemblies, RCS thrusters and leg suspension
parts are moulded in grey plastic, with
everything else being presented in the off-white
of the test shot – excepting, of course, the
From a point in season one of Space:1999 the transparent windows for the beak and
44-inch Eagle began to sport a number of coloured passenger pod which replace the slightly frosted
bands in reds, oranges, greys and silver around the look of the early parts supplied with my build.
girderwork of its top frame, particularly along the
front and rear edges. These, I feel, add scale and Deluxe Accessory Set
definition to the craft, and so I decided to add As an alternative to the plastic engine bells
them to my build. The bands are not provided supplied with the kit this accessory set offers all
with the decal sheet, so it was again a matter of the large engine bells (rear, underside and
scouring the spares box for areas of appropriate underside passenger pod) as machined
waterslide colour that could be cut down and aluminium parts, together with aluminium oleo
applied to the frame. In some cases I also used struts for the leg pods. The serious Eagle
white adhesive paper labels sprayed grey, cut to builder will have to have these, as they are quite
length and wound around the frames, these superb, but expect to pay around the same
providing the same crisp edges to the banded areas price for this set as you do for the kit itself. You
as the decals. can’t beat the look of gleaming aluminium
engines on your Eagle, though... and using this
The Eagle is comparatively lightly weathered, set means you can free up the kit’s plastic
with the pre-shading applied to the various sub- engines for use on additional Space:1999
assemblies in part one of this article proving quite scratchbuilt projects (!).
adequate in reproducing the look and feel of the
original miniature, so at this stage I stood back Small Metal Parts Set
from the Eagle’s various modules and declared This further set comprises the sixteen RCS
them completed. thrusters in aluminium to again replace the plastic
standard parts that come with the kit. As with the
Slot A into tab B. parts of the deluxe set, they look absolutely
Taking the spine assembly with the beak in superb... but a word of caution here – the thrusters
position it was then simply a matter of slotting in are relatively tiny, so work over a tray when
the leg pods and positioning the pod between the handling them or there will be tears before bedtime.
front and rear walkways. Two small self tapping
screws that secure the pod to the two slots on the
spine framework are provided with the kit (but
weren’t present in the test shot). The fit of the pod
was tight enough on my build to hold it in
position, however, pending the tracking down of a
pair of suitable screws.

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06-22inch Eagle pt 2_pp62-69_scififantasyModeller 14/03/2016 13:46 Page 68

Epilogue circular tank to almost meet, these then bending at

Is there anything not to like about this kit? About ninety degrees to disappear into the rear of the
the only (small) niggle I can drum up as devil’s rear cageworks. Similarly the large fuel tanks are
advocate is the pipe configuration to the rear fuel almost always seen with small pipes running
tanks. This particular layout of feed pipes is not across their tops through a central thicker
something I can ever recall seeing on any shot of diameter section, rather than the ones provided
any Eagle. The established look is a reverse ‘C’- with the kit that disappear into the rear
shaped pipe that connects the two circular tanks to framework. Now I’m not saying the kit’s layout is
each other at their rears via their centres, and then wrong, and this configuration may indeed be
a further pipe that curves downwards from the correct as the earliest, straight from the modelshop
front centre of the top circular tank and another rendition of the first 44-inch Eagle produced, but
that comes upwards from the centre of the bottom it’s not something I’ve come across, and some

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06-22inch Eagle pt 2_pp62-69_scififantasyModeller 14/03/2016 13:46 Page 69

Eagle fanciers might choose to replace the piping

with the layout established in many publicity shots
and much onscreen footage.

Possibilities
Oooh, this kit is destined to generate enough
creative juices to marinade oneself in! The slot-in
leg pods, for example, allow the ambitious
modeller to scratchbuild a replacement, torn-open
and damaged pod, as seen in several episodes,
slotting that in at times to simulate realistic battle
or crash-site damage. One of the front leg pods can
be drilled and fitted with a scratchbuilt recovery
arm to mimic the equipment seen in season two’s
The Exiles and other episodes. There are also
additional top and side boosters to consider plus,
of course, a variety of passenger pods and pod
variants – although one’s fingers are tightly
crossed that Round 2 will also make some of these
options available in kit form in due course.

To sum up, this release is inspired, wildly

ambitious, accomplishes all it sets out to, and has
to represent my favourite injection plastic SF kit
subject of recent years, if not ...well... quite
possibly ever. But then, I do love Eagles...

Review test shot and deluxe accessory kits

kindly supplied by Round 2.
www.round2models.com
Special thanks to Jamie Hood for his
help in making this feature possible.

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07-Force Awakens_pp70-81_scififantasyModeller 15/03/2016 10:39 Page 70

‘Use just force, Luke!’

Will Revell’s new snap Force Awakens kits cut the
mustard with older modellers, asks Mike Reccia
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07-Force Awakens_pp70-81_scififantasyModeller 15/03/2016 10:40 Page 71

THAT MOST EPIC OF RECENT GENRE MOVIE EVENTS –

THE FORCE AWAKENS – must surely, prior to its
release, have caused many modellers to imagine a
veritable Christmas morning of new craft designs,
making them oooh and aaah in anticipation of the
must-have scaled treats that would subsequently
beckon from kit store shelves.
Instead, rather than a galaxy of all-new designs,
we were introduced, for the most part, to updated
versions of iconic Star Wars craft, plus the return
of the franchise’s venerable ‘hunk of junk’ – the
Millennium Falcon. Not that I’m complaining, you
understand – I love the ‘new’-look (actually
drawing heavily from original New Hope Ralph
McQuarrie artwork) X-wings and the beefier
black TIE fighters... and what’s not to like about
the Falcon (Even that odd-looking replacement
oblong ‘dish’ is growing on me. A bit.)
In the Western world initial Force Awakens kit
releases have proved to be the exclusive province
of Revell, with the company, perhaps
unsurprisingly, and in order to snag a new
generation audience, aiming its wares squarely at
younger modellers, offering a range intended for
children aged 6+ under the umbrella title Build &
Play Star Wars. These easy-to-assemble kits snap
together with no need for glue, paint or tools, each
subject incorporating three different sound clips
and some including lights, the models becoming
tough, functioning toys on completion. The
selection comprises the Falcon (21cm, 19 parts),
First Order Special Forces TIE Fighter (13cm, 15
parts), Poe’s X-wing (22cm, 18 parts) and the
Resistance X-wing (22cm, 18 parts).
The company has simultaneously released
Easykit Star Wars versions of the above for
modellers aged 8+ or over (I think I can safely say
most readers will sit within this category) and
feature pre-painted parts that clip together.
Subjects to date are even larger versions of the
Build & Play kits plus Kylo Ren’s Command
Shuttle (18cm, 53 parts).
It has to be said, especially since the company
has at the same time released its range of (small
but perfectly formed) Star Wars kits for ages 10+
as ‘more challenging’ subjects in various scales
requiring glue and paint and featuring engraved
surfaces, replica cockpits, figures and display
Top to bottom: stands (includes the Falcon, X-wing, Darth Vader’s
assembling the TIE Fighter, TIE Fighter, TIE Interceptor and
TIE Fighter Snowspeeder), that it’s disappointing that similar
cockpit sphere versions of the FA releases could not have not been
with its opening made available to satisfy modellers who are no
hatch and longer in short trousers. The huge mature
various guns. modeller-fanbase out there lusting for hardware

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07-Force Awakens_pp70-81_scififantasyModeller 15/03/2016 10:40 Page 72

and graphics, push-locating around the back to Left:

back seats. Sadly, and this is the case with each of TIE Fighter wing
these releases, the kit does not feature crew figures. components and
Now one could speculate that this omission is rear view
perhaps due to the powers worrying in case tot- showing gunner’s
modellers might regard these as an appetising window.
snack if included, but there are smaller parts in the
line-up than the figures would be were they in
evidence, so why the lack of pilots, Revell?
With seats and consoles located in the lower
cockpit interior half the upper half is added and a
horseshoe-shaped, pre-painted panel pushed into
the top section, allowing this to be visible inside
the craft through the opening hatch, with its push-
fit inner transparency and hinge, once this is in
place.
Much is revealed regarding the film’s upgrade
layout of the fighter from this kit, as the next part
to be installed is a curved transparency that serves
as the gunner’s rear window, this locating into the
back half of the cockpit ‘sphere’, to which are also
added the top hatch and hatch hinge retainer. The
cockpit transparency is then pushed into the front
kits based on the new film they can sink their teeth half, the framework of this being nicely pre-
into must therefore go hungry at present. painted. However, the piece sits a little proud of its
...Or must it? surround and its edge is transparent rather than
Beating down my aversion to snap together kits painted, an odd look the purist will want to rectify.
(I was locked in a cupboard with one as a child) I After snapping a bottom piece to the inner
decided to build Revell’s new Force offerings cockpit the two halves of the sphere are closed
straight from the box (in some instances my self- around it, two guns are located into the lower
appointed non-interference directive gave way to front, the inner central circle of detail is connected
temptation and certain of them ended up as not- to each wing and an outer wing central detail piece
quite-as-from-the-box, as you’ll discover) to see is pushed into place. A gun is added to the top
whether they might in any way satisfy this title’s right shoulder and the model is snapped onto its
readership. Allocating Kylo Ren’s shuttle build to stand, completing the project.
esteemed fellow modeller Andy Pearson (see
review in part two of this feature) I turned my Irresistible Tweaks
attention to the first of Revell’s remaining four The TIE looks far too plastic-y without some
releases: adjustment being made to its finish. I therefore
gave the whole craft a quick spray with Citadel
First Order Special Forces TIE Fighter Satin Purity Seal to dull everything down.
Simple construction is offered here via six large Strangely the stand is moulded in the same colour
sprues of parts. My first niggle at this juncture as the craft, giving it the appearance of being an
concerns the inordinate number of attachment integral and incongruous part of the TIE when in
points connecting the wing/frames to their place rather than a separate display support. I
surrounding trees. If building this kit without couldn’t live with this look, priming the piece then
repainting it it is virtually impossible to release spraying it in a light metallic blue, just to set it
these parts without marking and/or scuffing their apart from the TIE.
edges in some way during the process. This is a Finally, not tweaked but noted were the gaps top
pity as the wings are otherwise impressive, the two and bottom where the two halves of the cockpit
sections per wing snapping together to form sphere met (or didn’t, quite). This is one of my
detailed and pleasingly large sub-assemblies. biggest objections to snap kits. If the system is to
Next up is the cockpit ‘sphere’ which features a be used, at least make sure that it works, and that
well detailed interior with the distinctive consoles mating surfaces come together tightly rather than
seen in the film, sporting nicely-rendered displays leaving gaps in the finish. Modellers reworking

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07-Force Awakens_pp70-81_scififantasyModeller 15/03/2016 10:40 Page 73

Poe’s X-wing Fighter

/Resistance X-wing Fighter
These two subjects are essentially the same kit
sporting different liveries. Construction is very
simple, consisting of clicking various panels,
intakes and piping into the two wing sections,
slotting these together so that they pivot, then
seating them into the main hull which snaps shut
around them (a pre-painted cockpit tub and an
opening cockpit transparency having been first
installed, plus a cockpit rear window and hull rear
plate). A choice as to ‘undercarriage up’ or
‘deployed’ modes has to be made, and each
X-wing is then completed by adding push-on jet
exhausts to the engines, snapping wing tip
weaponry into place and, finally, sitting the craft
on its four-part (contrast black) stand. ...Oh, yes,
and there’s a two-part BB-8-type droid (well, it is
actually BB-8 in the case of Poe Dameron’s black
and orange fighter) that snaps together and is then
located into a well behind the cockpit.

Tweaks; likes; dislikes.

Overall these are pleasing little kits. As opposed to
the TIE, the fighter’s hull snaps together snugly
without leaving any gaps, and the contours of the
new X-wing seem to have been followed fairly
faithfully. The wings, however, whilst pivoting,
do not close completely, and some kind of
click-shut feature would have been welcome
here. Modellers wishing to exhibit their fighter
on the ground sitting on its undercarriage will
therefore need to make adjustments. Again there is
no pilot figure, making the inclusion of one
sourced elsewhere an absolute necessity if the ship
is to be displayed on its stand in ‘open S-foil’ mode
by the discerning modeller.
Tweaks consisted of a spray of Purity
Seal, (including a light spray over
the gleamingly clean cockpit
transparency to dull it down
/dirty it up a little). Various MIG
Pigments were also used to bring out the panel
detailing and add the appearance of scuffs and
chips, particularly against the black of Poe’s ship.
Overall a good subject, cleanly presented, but
this subject will, I’m sure, want to excise most of one which mature modellers will be champing at
the snap system and glue their TIE together, the bit to add to, modify and repaint.
Above: Poe subsequently priming and completely repainting it.
Dameron’s This having been noted, with a complete glue- Millennium Falcon
X-wing Fighter together and repaint overhaul, the TIE will make This is essentially a retread of the company’s
with under- up into a large and impressive display model. earlier snapfix Falcon offering, with a selection of
carriage but, At heart this is a nice kit that could have been new parts (alternative landing gear, oblong ‘dish’,
sadly no even nicer had it been made available without the a choice of boarding ramp) enabling the modeller
Poe Dameron! snap system. to make up either the original version Falcon or

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incorporate the Force Awakens’ slight

modifications. This is definitely the most toy-like
kit of the new selection – the contours are wrong
(it’s too fat), the detailing all over the surface is an
approximation of that found on the original (the
turret guns are particularly poorly shaped and
detailed) and the various side snap pieces are an
absolute b****r to line up and keep in place when
joining the hull halves together – so much so that
I superglued some of them to the surrounding hulls
because they simply wouldn’t stay put as I
repeatedly attempted to mate the hull halves. Kids Left:
will definitely need a modicum of help from mums the standard
and dads when assembling this one... with mums Force Awakens
and dads, having calmed their outer child, X-wing kit
subsequently needing a little counselling in order assembles into a
to quieten their inner one. good looking
replica, enhanced
Tweaks and observations here by further
The kit’s appearance can be much improved by weathering.
weathering and streaking the Falcon’s surface. I
used MIG Pigments powders and washes to bring
the ship to life, sealing everything in with a coat of
Citadel Purity Seal once I was satisfied with the
look. Working to deadline, I only added an
approximation of the myriad streaks and pitting
seen on the original Falcon studio miniatures, but
modellers taking their time will be able to do a
much better job, and make the model look so
much more authentic.
A sage final word here goes to Andy Pearson...
In discussing this kit’s shortcomings with him, he
noted that, if you were a child, and wanted a

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Top: Force Millennium Falcon, this kit would seem absolutely

Awakens awesome to your young eyes and you could
modifications to quickly put it together and fly it around the room,
the standard reliving moments from the film.
Falcon kit: revised
loading ramp, ...And that, I suppose, is the ultimate point of
undercarriage each of these releases... to provide an upcoming
and dish. generation of modellers/Star Wars fans with
Right: lower something they can rapidly assemble and play
hull with with. As such, the subjects fulfill their roles
undercarriage in perfectly. It’s just a pity that more serious versions
place showing of the craft have not been made available so that
limited pre- slightly older and more demanding modellers like
painted details. you and me can enjoy building faithful replicas of
Below: completed what we’ve seen on screen and desire to see
Falcon from replicated on our shelves at home.
rear—side panels
need some ...May the Force be with Revell in perhaps
persuasion in considering the addressing of that need at some
order to sit point when planning future FA releases.
properly.
Review kits kindly
supplied by Revell.
Revell model kits are
available from all
good toy and
model stores.

For details visit:

www.revell.de/en

The completed Falcon – overly weathered 'mandibles' and rear engine section come pre-painted, additional streaking and weathering was added
plus an overall spray of Purity Seal.

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07-Force Awakens_pp70-81_scififantasyModeller 15/03/2016 10:40 Page 76

HERE’S THE PERFECT KIT FOR THE STAR WARS FAN

WITH LITTLE TIME ON HIS OR HER HANDS AND THE
IDEAL GIFT FOR JUNIOR RECRUITS TO THE MODELLING
HOBBY. It’s also makes quite a lump of a finished
model at 356mm high by 183mm wide, which
probably enhances its appeal to the junior
spacemen as much as it being an Easy Kit aimed at
the 8 years plus age group will.

It comes in black plastic with pre-painted detail

and a set of alternative parts allowing the modeller
to choose between landed or in-flight versions
although, should you choose the latter option,
there’s no stand.

I found myself in my more-or-less default

position when presented with this kit inasmuch as
I immediately started thinking of ways that I could
make my own mark on the model. In this case that
was going to be in the painted finish. Having said
that (and apart from some pre-painted dark grey
elements) the shuttle is black with black panels
and black details on an overall black background
so the questions was what to do other than to pick
out some of the panels in, well, black.

Of course, there are blacks and there are blacks

and, depending on what sort of pigment one
chooses, there are subtle differences. This is not so
much as a result of some blacks being blacker than
others but in the refractive nature of some paints
and inks.

Addressing this topic prior to assembly meant

that I could experiment on the inner surfaces of the
model which would be concealed once the kit was
assembled. This led me to choose two Games
Workshop products and develop a distinct
preference for one of those. Once upon a time they
used to sell a black ink for pinging out the detail
on their orcs, dwarves, space marines and shop
staff. This product seems to have been
discontinued, although I do have some in stock at
home, and there is now a Nuln Oil from the same
company. This is thinner but is, I imagine,
intended to do the same job although it doesn’t

SWIFT SHUTTLE
Andy Pearson builds Revell’s Force Awakens Kylo Ren’s shuttle kit
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Top to bottom:
The bits from
the box.
Colour test on
inner hull.
Insert to wing
root.
View of weapons
and inserts.
Completed wing.
Some clean-up
needed on
weapons.

work as well when painting contrasting panels in

black. Did I mention that there was some black
involved with the shuttle’s colour scheme?

Having given all the parts a wipe over with

methylated spirit to remove any mould-release
agents I picked out various panels on the fuselage
and wings. The original formulation of the ink
dries in minutes and I also used some of the new
oil (to me) to run into some grilles and panel lines.
The only other enhancement was to highlight
some tiny recessed details using a very fine HB lead
in a mechanical pencil.

The next stage was the assembly of inserted

contrast panels and weapons in the wing root area
of the lower port wing half. This was followed by
two longer panels along the trailing and leading
edges which would be held in place when the
upper wing half was added. I found a little
judicious cheating helped here and held them in
position with a drop or two of polystyrene cement.

The same procedure followed for the starboard

wing but I found that the pins and retaining holes
for the guns needed a little work with files before
they would fit. The retaining rails were next added
to the forward ramp, followed by the addition of
the pilots’ seats and control panel (one piece) and
the cockpit rear wall (another piece).

The ramp is secured in place by an internal box

section which also gives considerable depth to the

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This page:
Inserts and guns
to wing.
Assembled ramp.
Cockpit
component pre-
detailing.
Cockpit detail.
Detailing to
cockpit bulkhead.
Ramp in position.
Internal retaining
structure for
ramp.
Ramp—external
view.
Cockpit
transparency as
supplied...
...whoops!

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This page: shuttle’s interior when viewed with the ramp open.
Repaired This was designed to push-fit over four pins but
transparency. became immovable before it was fully in place. It
Repaired became obvious that some delicate surgery would
transparency with be needed as I could neither fully locate this part
clear paint. nor remove it to work on the pins. Positioning the
Contrasting hull handle of an X-Acto knife on each corner of this
insert. insert in turn and using a small hammer I beat the
Rear hull insert. recalcitrant part into submission. This is not a
Panel detailing subtle technique but a very therapeutic one.
to hull.
Does injection-moulded plastic have a sentience?
Is it capable of harbouring thoughts of revenge? I
have evidence to suggest that it might, which I
present in the chilling tale that follows.

It was a dark and stormy night… Well, actually

it was the middle of a quite pleasant afternoon
when I examined the only clear component in the
entire kit: the cockpit window. The parts list
highlighted this as a clear part but, obviously, the
person doing the pre-painting hadn’t read this as it
was presented as an opaque red on top of clear
plastic.

As there was quite a bit of detail (seats, etc.)

within the cockpit and as I had picked out some of
the moulding on the bulkhead behind using my
Games Workshop ink technique I decided to
remove this paint and airbrush the transparency
with clear red. My paint removing agents of choice
were isopropyl alcohol and methylated spirits
applied liberally but gently with an old
toothbrush. Not gently enough I fear for, as I
reached the final stages of paint removal, a crack
appeared in the top of the transparency and a large
chunk simply fell off. Now, whether this was some
sort of reaction to the chemicals (a career first for
me if it was), the kit’s revenge, or me being too
heavy handed I don’t know but the end result was
in no doubt.

Some poly cement was used to prevent further

cracking and a section of clear plastic card was
added to replace the broken section, glued in place
with Micro Kristal Klear. When the repairs were
dry the cockpit window section was airbrushed
with clear red acrylic. This, of course, meant that
the repairs were visible but, on balance, I think
that the approach produced a better result than the
opaque paint would have. A later development
would improve appearances significantly.

Further grey inserts were added to the lower

hull and the upper hull was then added to

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This page:
completed
cockpit section.
Engine bells at
rear of shuttle.
Wings with
and without
detailing.
Starboard wing
in position.
Landing leg
and pad.
Two views of
landing pads
in situ.

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This page:
Cockpit
transparency
as built.
Cockpit
transparency
as depicted on
box art.
Plasticard was
used to duplicate
this look.

sandwich these and lock them into leaflet) the top of the canopy is clear but the image
place. The two engines were then on the box shows the upper hull extending over it.
fitted, as were two further external I had, by this time, seen the latest episode of Star
details to the engine area. The Wars but hadn’t picked up this level of detail so it
wings push-fitted without any was back to the internet and a look at one of the
problems and it was then time to trailers which showed the shuttle. Whilst this view
choose which version of the wasn’t definitive, my impression was that the
landing gear to use. As I was cockpit did have a ‘roof’ so a section of very thin
going with the landed version plastic card was cut to fit and painted. This
of the shuttle this meant adding addition also helped disguise my repair to the clear
the landing legs to the pads section. I like to think that factor didn’t influence
and fitting the five my decision to include it. I had promised to see the
assemblies to the wing roots movie again with a couple of friends, this time in
and the lower hull. A the 3D IMAX version, and viewing that showed
couple of these benefited that my conclusion was correct.
from a drop of superglue
as they were somewhat As I intimated in the opening paragraph this
loose. was a quick and easy build with no problems to
speak of but, should it find its way into the
The model was now hands of someone who will use it as a toy, I
completed but giving it a would suggest gluing the undercarriage
final visual check components in place.
showed up a minor
anomaly. There is a Review kits kindly supplied by Revell.
variation between
the cockpit Revell model kits are available from
canopy on all good toy and model stores.
the model
and the box art. On For details visit: www.revell.de/en
the model (and
in the instruction

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OFF-WORLD
HEALTH CHECK!
Building Wild House Models’ MEC Medical Bay Console
Iain Costall
FOLLOWING THE RELEASE OF THEIR SUPERB STASIS bag of light grey resin castings, a bag containing
POD KIT, WILD HOUSE MODELS HAVE QUICKLY the pre-printed computer screens and a length of
ESTABLISHED THEMSELVES AS A COMPANY TO WATCH, fairly stiff vinyl tubing. (2) A nice addition is a cast
not only for innovative, unique designs but also brass medical badge that has a clasp and pin
for top quality castings and the kind of should you wish to wear it. (3)
presentation you might expect from mainstream
Japanese manufacturers. A set of glossy full-colour instruction completes
the kit, along with a general guide to working with
The second subject in their Hostile Realms series resin parts. (4)
is the 1/24th scale MEC Medical Bay Console
which is designed as a companion piece for the The quality of the castings is first-rate with no
Stasis Pod. As before, an additional plug-and-play major pour stubs to remove and only minimal
electronics package is available for this kit to light flash, this mainly featuring around the open
the various screens and also interact with the frames of the large console screens. Anyone with
circuitry of the Stasis Pod. This electronics pack some experience of working with resin will have
was not included in the review sample so I no issues here. (5, 6)
incorporated my own lighting and built it as a
stand alone kit. Optional parts are provided for the lining of the
two opening compartments in the base units and
The kit itself arrived in a full-colour end- these can be swapped around to suit the builder:
opening box which is illustrated with lots of useful one is empty, one features a control panel and the
colour renderings and information. (1) Inside is a remaining two have an assortment of tools. I opted

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1 2

3 4 5

6 7

8 9

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10 11

12 13

14 15

16 17

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18 19

20 21

22 23

24 25

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26 27

28 29

30

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31

to leave one closed and chose the control panel for control panel inside the right-hand pod. I drilled
the second one in order to have more lights. (7) out the controls to allow the light to pass through
and filled the holes with Microscale Kristal Klear
Care needs to be taken in cleaning up the open before finishing with Tamiya clear colours. A
frames from the screens as they are a precise fit further LED was installed in the central column.
with one another and also quite delicate. Although (11)
they appear a little warped, this disappears once
assembled around the screens themselves. (8) The most challenging aspect of the build was
lighting the screens. These are designed to be edge-
A nice figure is also included which features lit from within the frames. Much head scratching
optional heads. (9) took place as I figured out how to best achieve this
given the limited space. In the end I used a
The console screens themselves are printed onto combination of super bright 3mm LEDs and some
a clear acrylic type of material and two sets are pre-wired SMDs that I sourced from Model
provided, one featuring a human subject and a Lighting Solutions on Facebook. (12, 13)
second featuring a Dall, one of the alien races
prominent in the Hostile Realms universe. The Before assembly, the screen frames were primed
pieces have a protective film over them which and painted white in their component halves with
needs to be peeled off prior to installing in the the mating surfaces masked off. The clear parts
resin frames. (10) were then installed along with the lighting, taking
great care not to get CA glue on the screens. Once
Construction of the main base parts was very the frames were assembled, the screens were
straightforward and the fit of the parts was carefully masked before the frame edges were
excellent. Care needs to be taken to fit the correct sanded smooth and given a second coat of paint.
optional parts depending on where you want (14, 15, 16)
cables to exit. I opted to install an LED under the

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32

The rest of the parts were painted and assembled inside. The lighting was achieved using some
then the finished screens were installed with all the SMDs taped together then glued to the corners of
separate lighting leads fed through a hole in the the booth either side of the window and out of
base. sight of the viewer. (21-26)

Given that I intended to display it as a stand A figure was created using parts from a Tamiya
alone kit I hunted around for a suitable base. Since Rally Mechanic set... he’s missing his left hand but
I was building this at Christmas-time, an empty this isn’t obvious from outside... (27, 28, 29)
plastic chocolate container appeared, so the
bottom tray was inverted to form a plinth. This Finally the resin kit figure was painted to match
was lined with a sheet of styrene with panel lines the box art and installed at his station. Neil
scribed in using a steel rule and an Olfa P-Cutter Wooding from Wild House Models very kindly
which leaves a nice, v-shaped line. (17) sent me a sample of the decals from their
upcoming Hover Bike kit so I employed some of
Two walls of the medical bay were constructed these here. (30-35)
and detailed with various items including a
number of keys from a broken laptop. One wall Overall this is another impressive kit from Wild
features a window looking into a containment House which, in terms of quality and presentation,
booth reminiscent of the med lab on the Nostromo leaves many of the more established kit makers in
in Alien. (18, 19, 20) the shade. I’m looking forward to seeing this range
expand and develop in the future.
The booth itself was made from Evergreen tile
pattern styrene and detailed with chrome plated Review kit kindly supplied by Wild House Models.
drawing pins which bounce the light around wildhousemodels.com

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33

34 35

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09-News2_pp90-92_scififantasyModeller 15/03/2016 11:01 Page 90

HOT FROM THE MOULD

continued!
THE AIRBRUSH COMP
ANY
Iwata Professional Airbrush Darkstar Molten Metals
Maintenance Tool Kit ...are a new range of water-based acrylic
metallic paints manufactured to the
highest quality to produce the feel of a
liquid metal. They are permanent when
dry and there is no need for gloss
varnishing as they stay bright and
glossy and will not tarnish over time.
Once fully dry (approx. 24 hours) they
can be carefully polished to further
improve the shine.

Use of a primer or acrylic base coat

is recommended prior to application
of these paints, which can also be used
through an airbrush with just a 10%
water mix and will still remain glossy.
They should only be thinned with
water (tap water can be used) and
should not to be mixed with any
alcohol based products. They are fully
With the highly specialised Iwata Professional intermixable and can also be blended
Maintenance Tools, assembling and reassembling with other acrylic paints to create your
airbrush nozzles, caps, needle packings, O-rings own metallic colours.
and air valves is quick and easy. The kit comes
with a two-sided Iwata Air Valve Guide Wrench, There are 21 colours currently in the
Soft Jaw Pliers, Needle Packing Screwdrivers (for range, with 3 more to come.
1.2mm and 1.4mm diameter needles), Nozzle
Wrench, a protective Needle Tube and easy-to- Priced at £3.00 per 17ml bottle.
follow instructions with diagrams. All of the items
fit securely in the elastic straps within the soft- Darkstar Pigments
sided zippered case, with the case having extra ...are a range of fine-ground pigments for
room to carry up to three airbrushes. An inner, weathering. Being so fine, the pigments naturally
zipper pouch is ideal for holding small cling to surfaces and crevices without the need for
replacement parts. adhesion agents. Colours in the range include:
Dark Earth, Baked Earth, Sand, Mud, Light Rust,
New Rust and Rust.
Pigments, paints
and oils from Priced at £2.50 per 15ml bottle.
Darkstar Miniatures
The Airbrush Company’s Also available in the
new Darkstar Pigments following sets:
and Darkstar Molten Earth Set 1 (Dark
Metals range of pigments Earth / Earth /
and paints was developed Mud).
originally for the Earth Set 2 (Red
wargaming and fantasy Earth / Baked Earth
modelling market, but / Light Earth).
make a great addition to Rust Set (New
the modeller’s armoury of Rust / Rust / Light Rust).
paints for any genre of Sand Set (Sand / Orange
modelling. Sand / Light Sand).

Price per set of 3 x

15ml bottles: £6.50.

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09-News2_pp90-92_scififantasyModeller 15/03/2016 11:02 Page 91

In keeping with its compact nature, the ARISM

Mini also has a built-in airbrush holder on its
handle and is available in 8 colour options.
Features include: working pressure from 0 psi to
28 psi; manual on/off switch; 2m braided hose;
pressure adjuster handle with built in airbrush
holder; air flow: 12–14 lpm (0.42–0.49 cfm) at
open flow 1/8 BSP outlet on compressor.

Sparmax MAX-4 airbrush

A new airbrush providing exceptional
performance with even the smallest compressors
because it atomises well at low pressures. It has a
0.4mm needle and nozzle combination for general
purpose, high paint flow spraying and wider spray
patterns, ideal when spraying thicker or heavier
paints whilst still obtaining a fine level of detail.
The MAX-4 is dual-action but can be easily
converted to a single-action airbrush with the
Wilder Weathering Oils single-action Air Valve that is included. It also
Designed specifically for modellers with higher features a Pre-set Handle which limits the colour
liquidity than traditional artist’s oils and thus flow to avoid over-shooting and a Crown Cap
easier to apply to models for numerous effects, the allowing modellers to get closer to
oils are fast drying to a completely matt finish. their work and thus achieve
finer detail, whilst still
Wilder Nitroline protecting the needle.
Two extremely useful colours
are coming to the Wilder
NitroLine range: Grease and
Old Grease. Wilder NitroLine
products are enamel based and
can be used straight from the
bottle or thinned using enamel
thinner. They work best over
acrylic finishes.

Sparmax ARISM Mini

Classic kits
A powerful, compact from
compressor designed for
workbench applications whilst Studio 2
saving user space. As a smaller
unit, it is also designed to be Models
highly portable and easy to store.
Large scale:
• SHADO mobile • SKY 1
• Skydiver • Stingray
• Terror Fish
Friendly service
with superb after sales support.
http://studio2models.webs.com/
email: studio2models@hotmail.co.uk
Tel: 07534 294 216

NEW raded
upg kit

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09-News2_pp90-92_scififantasyModeller 24/03/2016 10:16 Page 92

Lifecolor Liquid Pigments made up of five adjustable washes and a remover

that can be used to subtract the pigments once
New from the Airbrush Company is a range of applied. This feature is unique as it gives modellers
adjustable, odourless washes/filters. Lifecolor control over the pigments, allowing them to work
Liquid Pigments are weathering paints made with with high precision and detail.
the new Green Chemistry pigments suspended
within the fluid. They come in three main sets www.airbrushes.com

SIXTEEN:12 Stop Press:

These images just in from a garage kit source of
the master for their 30-inch Thunderbird 4 on the
workbench, and which will be available this year.
This sneak peek courtesy of the manufacturers –
full details still being finalised but we’ll let you
know as soon as they release them.

Space:1999 Studio Scale

Masterpiece Eagle Collection
Sixteen:12 Collectibles have just announced the
release in 2017 of four 44-inch Space:1999 Eagle
display replicas: a Transporter Eagle 1,
Laboratory Pod Eagle, Rescue Eagle and Winch
Pod Eagle, fully authorised and fully licenced by
ITV. Each edition will feature aluminium engine
bells, attitude thrusters, etc., and will be limited to
200 copies worldwide, and the reference and
advisory team for this project will be headed up by
your very own Ed., who is excited to have been
invited to oversee accuracy with regard to all
aspects of these new replicas. The first –
Transporter Eagle 1 – will be released January,
2017, and will retail for approximately £2,300.
Full details and updates can be obtained by
contacting: info@sixteen.12.com

PARAGRAFIX
DeAgostini Millennium Falcon Gun Port the notched inner walls are included for the
Photoetch Set  ultimate in accuracy, and a guide ensures that the
ParaGrafix have released their fourth item for the gun port is aligned squarely. Many extra ‘X-panels’
DeAgostini Millennium Falcon subscription kit: a (used throughout the Millennium Falcon sets) are
photoetch and decals set for the included, as well as numbered panels
upper and lower gun turret stations that can be placed on binders to keep
which completely replaces the kit the magazine issues organised.
interiors (except seats and flight gun Contains two photoetch
controls) with exhaustively frets (one for each gun
researched control panels and wall port) as well as a full
details. colour ALPS printed
The flat outer wall is replaced with decal.
an angled bezel, making viewing the The set is available
interior easier; through holes allow now and has an MSRP
for easy lighting of the wall controls; of $62.95.

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10_WOTW-Diorama_pp93-94_scififantasyModeller 14/03/2016 14:24 Page 93

Reader Project:

War of the Worlds dioramas

Jeff Keith, of Mason, Ohio, USA recently sent in these and ‘smoke’ were simulated using pillow stuffing
photographs of two impressive dioramas he created material. Once the fire had been shaped and placed
based on the classic 1953 movie War of the Worlds in the windows all that was needed was a little back
and featuring the 1/48 Martian War Machine kit lighting from inexpensive flashlights to add life to
from Pegasus. the ‘blaze’.
In Keith’s first diorama foam board was used as a The ship kit did not feature lighting so Keith
base with balsa wood buildings and hay wagons, incorporated a strand of cheap LED lights into his
Keith working from a still shot from the movie as model. He then used very dim lighting to hide the
reference for the farm. The trees are real branch ends wires coming from the ship and for an overall
with lichen glued to them and the ‘smoke’ was atmospheric effect. The movie originally showed the
created from pillow stuffing material illuminated via ships firing energy beams that looked like ‘sparkler
the light ports under the ship. sparks’. To replicate this look Keith edited in a red
For the city scene Keith again used foam board laser beam and truck headlights were also added via
for the buildings and also for the base, with the road the Paintbrush program on his PC. No other digital
and pavements being painted directly onto this. The manipulation was employed in the creation of these
‘explosion’ is insulating foam in a can, while the ‘fire’ scenes.

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10_WOTW-Diorama_pp93-94_scififantasyModeller 14/03/2016 14:24 Page 94

...Got an SF modelling project you’re proud of? Like to see it in print? Send your images (at no less than
300 dpi, please) plus an explanation of how you did what you did to info@scififantasymodeller.co.uk and the
next Reader Project under the spotlight might just be yours.

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... Mike Reccia reels in a dangerous deep sea denizen, courtesy of Studio 2 models
Part One of Two
Studio Scales? welcome and unusual addition to the Anderson
You know the scenario... It’s a dark and stormy garage kit universe.
night and you lie there, staring at the ceiling, Blue-skying to the build ahead I decided I’d like
pondering the really big questions in life... will to display my soon to be constructed fishy foe on
there ever be world peace; why is there always a a replica of the launch gantry seen in certain
teaspoon left in the bottom of the washing up episodes of the series, and that I‘d also like to do
bowl; just how big, exactly, were the Terror Fish something special with the ‘eyes’ in that some kind
miniatures featured in Gerry Anderson’s classic of interior should be included, rather than the
Supermarionation series Stingray (...what do you beautifully vacformed eyes provided simply
mean, don’t be so damn stupid and get some sleep, fronting blank and darkened eye sockets. I had
you weird Ander-geek?). originally planned to bite the bullet, drill out the
Whilst the various scales of the titular Stingray thick fibreglass resin sockets and place sculpted
can clearly be determined in behind the scenes ‘Aquaphibian’ figures (each ‘fish’ was, of course,
*(...Phones’ most publicity shots taken at the time, nothing that I crewed by two of the evil sea-lord Titan’s green,
famous under- know of in the way of model shop photographic scaly henchmen) in the resulting cavity together
statement, prior to a evidence remains of the ‘Terror’ or ‘Mechanical’ with consoles, etc, to represent a cockpit area.
Terror Fish attack on Fish miniatures. Whether Studio 2’s large scale Fortunately modelling mate Bob Smith saved me a
Stingray – from the garage kit release of the subject is therefore considerable amount of time and effort in this area
pilot episode). comparable in size to the originals is unknown... by drawing my attention to a build of the kit
what is immediately evident upon opening the featured on the internet which had used screen
Top: completed kit box, however, is that this model – at 18.5 inches grab photography in the eye sockets, the results of
courtesy Studio 2. long when completed – is a big, fun, and very which looked very impressive. Needing to bear in

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11-Fish_pp95-98_scififantasyModeller 18/03/2016 15:08 Page 97

mind SF&FM’s deadlines as ever, I decided to fish simile in my shoes!) my first task was to join
travel this very welcome, faster-lane route when the head and body sections of the kit together.
constructing my fish, and to chronicle the build This was accomplished via the use of two-part
that follows in two parts – the first dealing with epoxy, and revealed a number of gaps along the
the kit and most of its construction, and the join once the two parts were together. As these
second, next issue, covering painting, finishing and holes would be mostly hidden by the frill sections
the aforementioned stand. at a later stage eliminating them was not
absolutely essential, but I’d know they were there
Piscine anatomy even if I couldn’t see them (OCD, you see) so
The master for the Terror Fish was sculpted by applied P38 car filler all around the join and
Linda, the talented partner of Studio 2’s Mamas sanded back to a smooth finish, its use also
Pitsilis, and an impressive job she’s done here, adding strength to the assembly.
too... these two prolific model makers making a With the head and body together and neat I
formidable creative team. The Terror Fish is cast in added the jaw piece. Some modellers might
resin with the head and body sections being want to position this in a ‘hinged open’ position
backed in fibreglass, and the craft’s distinctive as though the fish is ready to fire a missile, but
lines come together from a head section, a lower I prefer the look of the craft in tight-lipped
jaw piece, rear body section, tail, dorsal fin, two mode, so simply epoxied the piece shut against
side fins, the various ‘spines’ that bristle along the the head.
top and bottom of the craft, the ‘frill’ sections that At the other end of the fish I drilled a hole in the
sit behind the head and a pair of clear, vacform connecting surface of the one-piece tail (having
‘eyes’. first sanded its edges smooth) and a corresponding
hole in the centre of the indented rear of the body,
The build inserted a length of sprue into the hole in the tail,
Having no bigger fish to fry (Oh, come on now... liberally doused in two-part epoxy, then epoxied
like you wouldn’t be going with the occasional the tail to the body.

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The dorsal fin was next, and the base of this, to represent the edges of the spines, and shaped at
once surrounding resin flash had been removed, their front edges to sit against the recess to the rear
needed to be drilled out with the mini-drill and of the eye socket to each side of the head. In order
shaped to fit the curved contours at the top of the to make these conform to the curves of the rear of
head where it locates. An exact match was not the head I immersed them in very hot water until
necessary as any gaps around the base of the they were quite bendy, pushed them against the
piece, where the fin connects to the top of the recesses to the rear of the head, applied pressure so
head, would be covered once the ‘frills’ were in that they took on the head’s contours then ran
place. Again, two-part epoxy was used to ensure them under a cold tap to fix them in their new
a strong join. configurations. Prior to this operation I had also
Next up was the most demanding aspect of this cut part way along some of the scored spine edge
build, time-wise... A row of smaller fins or spines lines with a razor saw so that the tops of certain
feature along the top and bottom of the fish, these spines stood slightly proud of the frill, giving the
diminishing in size as they approach the tail. The impression that it was made up of individual
parts for these, in various descending sizes, are components rather than being one long,
supplied still attached to their surrounding (and continuous piece.
quite thick) flash and my first task was therefore to When I was satisfied with the shape of the frill
snip each fin from its resin ‘skirt’ using a pair of pieces, and having cut away a centimetre or so of
sprue cutters before sanding away the excess resin their top edges to allow for the location of the
from its base. The real work then began in shaping dorsal fin at the top of the head, I attached the frills
the underside of each fin to match the compound using a combination of superglue and two-part
curves of the top and bottom of the fish that it epoxy. The final step was to use cut down sections
would be attached to. The bottoms of the fins are of the top edge pieces that I’d cut away from the
flat, rather than being indented to sit snugly over frills to fill in the gaps between the top edges of the
the top and bottom lines of the body, and so the frills and leading edges of the dorsal fin.
base of each fin needed to have a ‘V’ shape filed Next up in the build order, completing it, would
into it before it could be attached to its location be the two side fins and the transparent ‘eyes’.
with superglue. One all eighteen spines were in However, the fish would need to be painted before
place the gaps between their edges and the body these parts could be added, and you’ll discover
were then filled with P38 car filler. Once set, this how the paint stage progressed for me, plus how I
was sanded back to match the contours of the fish fared regarding construction of a stand for the
at each side, this fill and sand exercise being craft, next time round, when I’ll no doubt be
repeated twice more until each fin had been angling for compliments (sorry)...
blended in and appeared to be an integral part of
the craft. All in all the process took around six ...Therefore please do join me in Volume 42 for
hours to complete. a conclusion to this exciting fish tale (sorry
again)...
Frills
The Terror Fish sports a large ‘frill‘ or ‘ruff’ of Review kit kindly supplied by Studio 2 models.
spines just behind its head, and these are supplied studio2models.webs.com
as two pieces of flat, thin resin, scored on one side

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