GRADUATION PROJECT

ALCHEMY

SUBMITTED IN
PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF
THE GRADUATION REQUIREMENT OF
BACHELOR OF TEXTILE DESIGN

STUDENT: JYOTSNA RANE

FACULTY GUIDE: MR. R RAVI KUMAR

2013-2017
DEPARTMENT OF FASHION AND TEXTILES
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
BENGALURU
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 THE JURY EVALUATION SHEET

The evaluation jury recommends Jyotsna Rane for satisfactory completion of Graduation Project “ALCHEMY
“ from National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bengaluru after evaluating her project and fulfilling the requirements set
by the institute and the jury members.

Jury Members



Name Company/Organization Signature

Remarks

Center Coordinator- Fashion & Textiles

Graduation Project | Textile Design 2013-17 3

COMPLETION CERTIFICATE

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 SYNOPSIS

ABOUT THE GRADUATION PROJECT

The textile department in NIFT offers a multidisciplinary curriculum that aims to deliver skill oriented
education,integrating various IT and modern industry practises for an overall development. The four year
undergraduate course at NIFT requires a Graduation Project for 16 weeks as a part of academic curriculum
in the last semester of college. The intense and dynamic interaction between the industry and academics
during the project provides practical and realistic aspects of the design industry. The Graduation Project is
the final academic project for the student, marking the end of the student’s academic career at National
Institute of Fashion Technology, Bengaluru. It is an opportunity for the students to showcase their
expertise as independent practitioners of design. It should reflect their leadership manifested through
creativity and innovation.

The project should lead to a new knowledge creation and should align with the broader objectives of the
institute.

My graduation Project, was done at Aquarelle India Pvt Ltd, consummation in a range of products for
women’s wear incorporating innovative prints and fabric washing treatments.

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 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

This project is the result of collective effort of various people and I am grateful to each one of them for
their support. Firstly, I am grateful for Aquarelle India Pvt Ltd for giving me the opportunity to work on
my project.

I would like to express my sincere gratitude to Mr. Anirwan Bansriyar for his mentorship ,Inspiring me,
critiquing me and challenging me at every step and finally bringing out the best in me. This project could
not have been completed without the support of the entire design team at Aquarelle India Pvt Ltd. , I owe
them my sincerest thanks for all the information they provided in their respective fields.

I thank the faculties of the Textile Design Department, Center Coordinator Mr Ravi Kumar , Assistant
Professor Ms Kakoli Das, Assistant Professor Ms A.N Monica for their timely guidance and mentorship
during my graduation project. Special mention of thanks to Lab Assistants Mr Undi Sidalingappa , Mr
Mahadevappa, Research Assistant Mr Ranjit and Lab Attender Mr Mahadev Swami for their help and
support. I would like to thank the resource centre at NIFT whom I referred to time and again.

Last but not the least a very special thanks to my family for their constant support and cooperation
during my time of difficulties.

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 CONTENTS

ABOUT THE COMPANY 11

WORK FLOW 13

CLIENTS 15

FACILITIES & CONSTRAINTS 17

GARMENT MAKING PROCESS 19

COLLECTION 1 25
-TREND ANALYSIS
-FORECAST ANALYIS
-MARKET RESEARCH
-BRAND STUDY
-BRAINSTORMING
-MOODBOARD
-CLIENT BOARD
-LOOKBOARD
-INSPIRATION BOARD
-INITIAL CONCEPTS
-FORM EXPLORATION
-FINAL CONCEPTS

COLLECTION 2
COSTING
CONCLUSION
BIBLIOGRAPHY

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 THEIR VALUES

PASSION

FOR CUSTOMER

SATISFACTION

HARD WORK

RESULTS DRIVEN

CHAMPION

CULTURE

EXCELLENCE

BENCHMARK

IN ETHCS

TEAM PLAYER

WINNING FAMILY

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 ABOUT THE COMPANY

Aquarelle India Pvt. Ltd is a Mauritius based company TO DELIVER

& one of the manufacturing & exports oriented 100% “ U N B E ATA B L E VA L U E ”
subsidiary company of M/S Ceil Textiles (comes under to medium/upmarket retailers
Ceil Group) and is positioned as ‘Global’ supplier of
garments. CIEL Textile Limited is a subsidiary of CIEL
Limited. Listed on the Development and Enterprise
Marketof the Stock Exchange of Mauritius Ltd since “BE THE BEST”
2006,CIEL Textile Limited is a world-class global player in & most profitable supplier
textile and garment operations, spanned across Mauritius, of our customers
Madagascar, India and Bangladesh. It is known by their
customers, employees, suppliers and peers as being the
best in the textile and apparel industry. It has its own mill
named ‘CFL’ in Mauritius. They are known for Woven shirts 7 KEY
“one stop shop” with vertically intergrated business. They INGREDIENTS TO
deal with Formal, Casual (both men and women). They OUR MISSION
are positioned as “Best alternative to China”. They focus
more on the innovation of the fabric, finishes, wash care 1 . P ro d u c t l e a d e r s h i p > B e s t s e l l e r s
and garment styling. They are integrated with all of these 2. Speed and flexibility > Second to none
facilities. Their design team is based both in India and 3 . G r a d e ‘A’ q u a l i t y > Co n s u m e r s c o m e b a c k fo r
Mauritius. m o re
4. Re l i a b i l i t y i n p e r fo r m a n c e > C l o c k w o r k
5 . S e r v i c e & c o m m u n i c at i o n > E a s y a n d c o nv e -
OBJECTIVE nient to work with
To be recognised by their customers, employees, suppliers 6 . S o c i a l l y & Et h i c a l l y re s p o n s i b l e > B e a l e a d -
and peers as being the best in the industry. e r i n “ S u s t a i n a b l e D e v e l o p m e n t”
7. Co m p e t i t i v e n e s s > B e s t “v a l u e” s u p p l i e r

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 WORK FLOW

DESIGN BRIEF FROM BUYERS

DESIGN HEAD TEAM LEADER HEAD MERCHANT

DESIGNERS RESEARCH & IDEATION MERCHANTS

MEETINGS

COLLECTION PLANNING VENDOR LOCATION

SAMPLING/ HANDLOOMS
LEAD TIME- 15 TO 20 DAYS

DESIGN CHECK/ STYLE CHECK COSTING

CORRECTIONS
SAMPLES PRESENTED TO THE BUYER
FOR APPROVAL

SELECTED SAMPLES GOES OUT FOR

PRODUCTION TO THE RESPECTIVE VENDORS

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 CLIENTS

Aquarelle India is a part of Aquarelle Group. Both have a Europe UK - M&S (via N IC)
wide range of clients from all over the world. The list of House of Fraser
clients whom they cater do are: Debenhams (J. Banks, Maine, Red Herring)
Next
AQUARELLE GROUP CUSTOMER BASE Charles Tyrwhitt
Spain - Zara
France - Burton Massimo Dutti
Celio El Cortes
Decathlon
Devred AQUARELLE INDIA CUSTOMER BASE
Germany - Esprit
Peek & Clopenburg Exports
Holland - Hema
Belgium - C&A USA - Levis
Italy - Benetton -Dockers
Oviesse UK - Ben Sherman
Coin - Timberland
Sweden - Dressmann Italy - Diesel
Portugal - Quebramar Spain - Zara
South Africa - Woolworths - El Corte Studio Classics
Truworths - Cortefiel
Pringles France - Burt on
Polo Norway - Dressmann
Markham Poland - Big star
Levis Germany - Hugo Boss
USA: - J .Crew
Express Domestic
Eddie Bauer
Nautica Levis
Benetton
Lee / Wrangler

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 FACILITIES AND CONSTRAINTS

The Aquarelle Group is vertically intergrated from its own Since the company has its own sampling unit, they do a lot
mill to manufacturing facilities at different places in India, of innovation in terms of garment styling. For washing and
Bangladesh, Mauritius and Madagascar. embroideries, they rely on their vendors and get sourced
from and around Bangalore.
The company develops woven handloom, printed samples
as well as garments for exhibiting to the specific clients. CONSTRAINTS
They cater to brands which are open to experimentation in No in-house textile mill in India.
terms of the overall look. Lack of understanding the process of fabric development
at different mills and their shafts limitations.
The initial design process incorporates timely feedback from Delay in delivering samples on time by mills.
the clients and any further changes are made according ot Sampling unit is located on the outskirts of Bangalore which
the client’s specification. These development samples are makes it time consuming for the designers if they need to
then presented to the client as per their requirements. visit the unit.
Furthermore, these samples are also presented globally in
international trade fairs. TIME FACTOR
Sourcing Problems - Sometimes sourcing of yarns, trims,
A wide range of fabrics and garments are being developed trim fabrics etc. is not feasible within a short period of time.
by the company, so one can deal with the complete Yarns, Fabrics are to be used from the stock of the company
package of fabrics to garment development although only warehouse because only those fabrics can later be fetched
cotton, cotton blends can be used. Their factories are not (in bulk) if they get a bulk order for production.
equipped to handle polyester and knits. Several techniques
are combined and used for developing CADS and prints All these factors together leads to making a compromise
while keeping in mind it’s feasibilty. In some cases, certain in terms of the design value. Time is of utmost importance
experimental techniques are used in terms of fabric and meeting the deadlines is very crucial.
development.
These four months have been so different from the
Woven fabrics, garment development, washing are the classroom projects which we are so accustomed to doing
strength of Aquarelle India Pvt. ltd. It is USP of the company. and adhering to strict deadlines and following the timelines.

Based on the through research on the current trends and

forecast, they design team does a lot of experimentation in
terms of fabrics.. They try a new look every season and are
open to a lot of innovation.

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 GARMENT MAKING PROCESS

WARE HOUSE RAW MATERIAL SOURCING

RAW MATERIAL SOURCING 60-70% fabrics are imported from China & Hongkong
textile mills. 30-40% fabrics are sourced from Indian market,
buyer specific. Lead time based on buyer (90-110)days. Trims,
threads, buttons, twill tape etc. are ordered based on buyer’s
PURCHASE ORDER requirements from respective vendors. The fabrics are stored
mainly for the two major seasons:
Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter.

QUALITY ASPECTS List of trims:

Leather patch, Size label, Special label (brand name), Hand
tags/Special hand tags, Collar traveller, Wash care, Buttons/
Snap buttons/Snap button washer, Twill tape, Back support
SENT TO FACTORY Poly bag, Lining (Fusable/Non - Fusable) etc.

PURCHASE ORDER

This order is released by the merchandiser/sourcing

department to the warehouse which includes all the details
(invoice, DC, packaging etc).

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 CUTTING/BAND KNIFE OPERATORS

PASSPORT FUSING MACHINE

CONTROLLER

PATTERN PRINT OUT WASHING (OPTIONAL)

PLOTTER CUTTER FINISHING

MACHINE

CAD ROOM / PATTERN QUALITY CHECK

MAKING

ADDING SHRINKAGE & THERMOSTRIP CHECK

PARAMETERS

SAMPLING INDENT PACKAGING / SENT TO

THE BUYER

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 SAMPLING INDENT PATTERN PRINT OUT

Forwarded by the marketing/merchandising team whch The final print out is taken on brown paper for reference
specifies the type of fabric, trims, type of wash, proto while cutting the final fabric.
sample, merchant name, customer name, season etc.
PASSPORT CONTROLLER
ADDING SHRINKAGE & PARAMETERS
The concerned person checks the defects and do correction,
Depending upon the shrinkage and other parameters in the print out and matches all the parameters with the
of the fabric, the final consumption of fabric for each indent sheet.
garment is decided.
CUTTING / BAND KNIFE

CAD ROOM / PATTERN MAKING 30-40 pieces are cut at a time, keeping the pattern print
out on top for reference. For detailed, minute cut and
As per the protosample, the pattern developer works on curves band knife is also used.
the software (RICH PIECE) to transfer it digitally with 1:1
accurate measurments. The initial print out is taken on
newsprint sheet.

PLOTTER CUTTER MACHINE

The sheet includes details of each part of the garment

from size to shrinkage, style number ,part number. The
concerned person then cross check each and every part
thoroughly, do corrections if required on plotter cutter
machine.

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 OPERATORS
The operators stitch the garment as per the given
guidelines.Two lines are being maintained for stitching of
the garments. One line for development samples and the
other for sales man samples (SMS) or bulk order samples.
Development samples line - Total of 10 operators sit in a
line. They stitch the entire garments individually. Per day
each operator stitch two garments.
Sales Man samples (SMS) - Total of 35 operators sits in a
line. They stitch 150 -160 garments per day in total.
They use industrial machines for stitching of the garments
namely BROTHER, JACK and JUKI.

FUSING MACHINE
This machine is used to fuse the interlining. It depends on
different parameters such as temperature (165-175 degree
celsius), pressure (5 kg) and time (12-15 seconds).

WASHING (OPTIONAL)
After the garment is stitched, if washing requires then it is
sent to different vendors such as Ramdhan Laundries in
Bangalore itself.

FINISHING
After stitching and washing (optional), the garments goes
for final finishing touch like adding buttons, button hole,
trimming, examining, ironing, folding etc.

QUALITY CHECK
For quality check, it g oes to the inspecton room where
minute details such as width of the stitch, stitching detail,
tags, collars, cuffs, fabric quality, ticket thread count, sewing
thread, protofit etc are cross checked.

THERMO STRIP CHECK

The concerned person cross check all the parameters as
per the buyer requirements.

PACKAGING / SENT TO THE BUYERS

The final packaging is done and sent to the buyer.

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SPONSORS BRIEF

Design Brief 1- Design An Innovative Print Collection

Target Brand- ONLY/ Global Collection , Europe
Season – A/W 18
Category – Womenswear Tops And Dresses
Inspirational Brands- Zara / H&M / Top Shop / Forever 21/ Bershka/ Pull and Bear

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 COLLECTION 1

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 01 Fabric structures and patterns mutate to create
beautiful hybrids: new woven and leather skins
explore 3D markings, and are enhanced with
shimmering yarns, foiled prints and encrusted
jewelled textures for an alien-like beauty
02 Surfaces have almost human qualities thanks
to sensual yarns woven into luxuriant, hair-like
volumes: fabrics are gleaming, luxe and sleek,
animated with sensorial velvety plush and fringed
Dark Wonder explores our relationship with fantasy and texture
technology as it transforms to spark sensuality and delight. 03 Neons create immersive, dream-like looks:
Fabrics and materials exploi t our senses and experiment stripes focus on the interplay between lenticular,
wi th immersive colour, sensual texture and indulgent outlined and colour-changing graphics for an
decoration, resulting in haptic secondskin materials that immersive look, while leathers and sheers have a
appear to breathe,move and interact with us. holographic iridescence

01 A nomadic direction celebrates vibrant and

protective textiles equipped for global travel:
traditional blankets inspire brushed plaids and
patchwork pattern mixes, while performance
fabrics are enhanced with a more natural, well-
worn character
02 Eco-friendly natural knits have a primordial
and tactile quality: animal and vegetal yarns are
harvested together for new rustic hand-loom
weaves, while dishevelled fleece plush and furry
textures offer a sense of savage sensuality
03 Rich motifs are inspired by travelling tribes:
kilims, patchworks, blankets and tapestry weaves
inspire jacquard, dobby and colour-wovens, while
embroidery and woven trims provide tactility and
depth

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 TREND ANALYSIS

01 Preppy classics are smart and practical: a

smart approach informs collegiate stripes,
retro blocked geometrics, demure librarian-
style checks and smart-but-cosy tweeds,
which come in warm, classic shades
02 Historical design is reinterpreted in
a rebellious and romantic way: carvings,
scrolls and drapes from classical sculpture
inspire sweeping pleats, architectural lace,
plush velvet and faded opulent jacquards,
sometimes with dishevelled finishes
03 Architectural influences mix conceptual
ideas with clever classics: simplicity is key
for sober classic monochrome suiting,
mathematical checks and cool marble-like
mélange yarns

01 Urban colours and textures inspire an

industrial design direction: traffic cones,
mesh fencing and asphalt surfaces inspire
embossed weaves with tyre-track structures,
as well as mesh-like constructions and gritty
urban tweeds
02 Global references are combined in an
upbeat, mix-and match fusion: checks,
chevrons, herringbones and graphic jacquards
are reappropriated with a play on scale and
yarn mixes, offering a fresh take on cultural
fusion
03 Eco-consciousness pioneers a new
sustainable ethos: post-industrial waste
materials are reused, resulting in a new wave
of creative tweeds, and collaborative threads
connect communities through a new focus on
crafting

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 FORECAST ANALYSIS

The Thinker explores how the past can

influence new directions for everyday
designs. Patterns combine classical and
modernist inspired colours and volumes
with a thoughtful approach. A low-saturation
direction with tonal colours responds to the
need for quiet, while concentric designs are
inspired by mathematically harmonious
proportions

01 Experiment with mindful illustrations:

drawing goes back to basic with a considered
approach, inspired by still-life portraits, florals
and mark making. Invest time in practicing
and perfecting simple line drawings

02 Surfacework is delicate and subtle: explore

low contrast colour palettes for simple motifs
and repeat patterns. Embossed and relief
techniques add interest to surfaces and
jacquard weaves

03 Past typefaces are updated: Times New

Roman and Garamond typefaces are used to
experiment with scale and composition

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MARKET RESEARCH

Some of the competitor brands were studied

for print inspiration and styling details. Brands
like Zara, Bershka, Pull and Bear demonstrated
a lot of floral prints in trend. Silhouettes were
relaxed and flowy, with ruffle detail and
volume added to the sleeves. A few had some
interesting neck details too.

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 BRAINSTORMING

PLAYFUL
WHIMSICAL

UNFINISHED

LINE QUALITY ELEGANT

WATERCOLOUR
IMPERFECT FLORALS

DOODLE

FROLIC

INTRICATE
TEXT

FUN

HANDDRAWN

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 Doodle Diaries

An artist’s sketchbook is his asset. Jotting down

anything and eveyrhting that inspires in that instant.
This theme draws its inspiration from an artist’s
sketchbook, where his thoughts and dreams come
alive.

Delicate doodles reflect a creative and mindful

process. Portraits and still-life illustrations are
key, traced in light felt pen or pencil, while simple
drawings in thick painterly strokes offer a more
abstract angle.

Designs have a light and minimalistic aesthetic,

enhanced by the use of large neutral grounds and
oversized placement.

Book spines and newspaper articles are

carefully cut out, layered and collaged into fresh
compostitions. Font can be spaced out and
scaled up for a bold graphic layout, presented a
contemporary take on classic serif newspaper
typefaces.

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CLIENT PROFILE

BRAND PHILOSOPHY
ONLY set out to create well designed fashionable clothing by balancing
new and exciting ideas with the basic promise of quality and affordability.

USP
A fashion forward range of quality products at affordable prices

BRAND IDENTITY
The Brand has developed a brand identity which is sexy stylish and has a
attitude.

BRAND PERSONALITY
Witty, Bold and Intelligent

BRAND STYLE FILTER

Fast adopter of trend, comfortable yet put together, sublte
sophestication, dressy and designer inspired

BRAND COMPETITOR
Zara, H&M, TopShop, Forever 21

INSPIRATIONAL BRANDS
Bershka, Pull and Bear, Stradivarius, Noisy May

TARGET GROUP ANALYSIS

STYLE SEEKERS
They are highly fashion forward, have a high spending capacity and carry
themselves very confidently. They are quite ambitious and not afraid to
take risks to achieve what they want. They have a strong need to stand
out and be noticed and admired for their style.

CLIENT PROFILE
TARGET AGE GROUP: 21-28
INCOME GROUP: upper middle class
MARKET: Europe

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 LOOKBOARD

boxy crop top

clean silhouette concealed split back shirt

placket

crop top

curved hemline

engineered print

frayed
off shoulder shirt
hemline
dress

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 INSPIRATION
BOARD

zentangle elements

collaging text
line drawing

handwritten

drawing on old
papers

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 INSPIRATION IMAGE FORM EXPLORATION FINAL MOTIF

PEONY

PLUMERIA

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 INITIAL CONCEPTS

INSPIRATION IMAGE FORM EXPLORATION FINAL MOTIF

HIBISCUS

WATER LILY

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 INSPIRATION IMAGE FORM EXPLORATION FINAL MOTIF

FLAME OF THE FOREST

DANDELION

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 FORM EXPLORATION

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 FORM EXPLORATION

Tearing out stripes of printed paper

and doodling in the gaps in between

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 FORM EXPLORATION

Tearing out stripes of printed paper and

doodling in the gaps in between

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CONCEPT 1

+ +
The concept draws inspiration from a
collage of floral elements with dainty
doodles offering a break from the
mundane florals.

I have used a collage of text and floral

elements here along with some zentangle
doodles and put them together in a collage.

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 FINAL CONCEPTS

PRINT 1

FULL REPEAT DRAPED GARMENT

Fabric Details
COLOURWAYS Composition: 100% Cotton
Weave: 2/1 Twill
Count: 60*60
Construction: 188*108

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CONCEPT 2

+ +

This print was developed by creating

a collage out of old newspaper
bits, adding watercolour florals
and finally topping off with dainty
doodle elements

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 PRINT 2

FULL REPEAT DRAPED GARMENT

Fabric Details
Composition: 100% Cotton
Weave: Plain(White)
Count: 60*60
Construction:144*120

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 INSPIRATION IMAGE FORM EXPLORATION

FINAL MOTIF PRINT LAYOUT

Insipired from doodles on a

notebook, a texture was developed
on which floral motifs were placed
along with text arranged in a
happazard manner.

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 PRINT 3

FULL REPEAT DRAPED GARMENT

Fabric Details
COLOURWAYS Composition: 100% Cotton
Weave: Plain(White)
Count: 60*60
Construction:144*120

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 FINAL MOTIF PRINT LAYOUT

COllaged text layered on top of a

floral motif

+
+

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 PRINT 4

FULL REPEAT DRAPED GARMENT

PRINT 5

Fabric Details
Composition: 100% Cotton
Weave: Plain(White)
Count: 60*60
Construction:144*120

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 CONCEPT PRINT LAYOUT

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 PRINT 6

FINAL MOTIF
DRAPED GARMENT
2 3/4”

Fabric Details
Composition: 100% Cotton
Weave: Plain(RFD)
Count: 60*60
Construction:144*120

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 PRINT LAYOUT

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 PRINT 7

FINAL MOTIF
DRAPED GARMENT

43.83 cm

Fabric Details
Composition: 100% Cotton
Weave: Plain(RFD)
Count: 60*60
Construction:144*120

30 cm

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 PRINT 8

FINAL MOTIF
DRAPED GARMENT

Fabric Details
Composition: 100% Linen
Weave: Plain(RFD)
Count: 44Lee*44Lee
Construction:48*44

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PRINT 9

COLOURWAYS

Fabric Details
Composition: 100% Linen
Weave: Plain(RFD)
Count: 44Lee*44Lee
Construction:48*44

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 PRINT 10

FINAL MOTIF
DRAPED GARMENT

COLOURWAYS

Fabric Details
Composition: 100% Linen
Weave: Plain(RFD)
Count: 44Lee*44Lee
Construction:48*44

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SPONSORS BRIEF

Design Brief 1 : Design An Innovative Print Collection

Target Brand- Selected Femme/ Global Collection , Europe
Season – A/W 18
Category – Womenswear Tops And Dresses
Inspirational Brands- COS/APC/Closed/All Saints / Celine

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 COLLECTION 2

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 KEYWORDS

LIGHT
SHADOW PLAY
SYMMETRY
ENTWINDED
LINES
GEOMETRIC
DISRUPTED
CONTINUOUS

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 CLIENT PROFILE

SELECTED is a unisex brand Nordic by heart. The create fashion rooted in the leading
trends, while positioning themselves as a strong, authentic brand with a minimalistic
expression and a clear focus on quality. The provide the fashion-Conscious individuals
with contemporary styles infused with edge for an international touch.

Selected Femme is all about pared down elegance rooted in a scandinavian aesthetic.
Their collections are inspired by iconic women of the past mixed with the essence of
the present. They blend classics with high fashion trends to create the sophesticated
items that characterize the brand. The silhouettes are coolbut feminine. They are
simple yet bold.

Tagline- “We make fashion you want to keep!”

INSPIRATIONAL BRANDS
COS/APC/Closed/All Saints / Celine

TARGET GROUP ANALYSIS

STYLE SEEKERS
They are highly fashion forward, have a high spending capacity and carry themselves
very confidently. They are quite ambitious and not afraid to take risks to achieve what
they want. They have a strong need to stand out and be noticed and admired for their
style.

CLIENT PROFILE
TARGET AGE GROUP: 26-35
INCOME GROUP: Upper Middle Class
MARKET: UK/Europe

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The cost of a garment depends on various factors- the kind of MARK UP
yarns used, number of colors used, type of wave, RFD (ready for Materials, labour, transport, stocking, maintenance,
dyeing) fabric, PFP (preparation of fabric) for printing, shrinkage establishments, taxes etc. all charges are calculated within
that occurs during washing, printing charges, labour charges, the total markup that is levied. Mark up is around 200-
finishing and packaging charges. 300% on the whole, whatever is the total price for one
metre of the final fabric, then it is multiplied by 2 or 3, and
ASPECTS EFFECTING THE FINAL PRICE is marked as the final selling price. Contingency changes
The company caters to buyers that are very niche and high end, are also taken into consideration while the final fabric is
so princing plays a very important role to have a competitive decided.
edge over the others. Print yardages that are developed by the
company are sourced from the mills Additional charges are WASH AND CARE
added for embroidery and washing. Pricing has to be kept in Mostly the garments are normal washed, or normal
mind while developing a collection for a particular customer. machine washed with no use of chemicals. In some cases,
enzyme wash is added to improve the hand feel of the
HIGH CONSUMPTION DESIGNS garment.
Fabrics like double cloth, dobby, backed fabric, extra warp
and weft, space dyed etc, are expensive when compared DETAILS OF FINAL GARMENT
to the basic plain weave, solids etc. Use of special yarns like The specification for a few selected garments are discussed
melange, grindle, slub, lycra, neps etc. also increases the pricing here. Since the final prices are decided after negotiating
of the final fabric. Wash treatments on fabrics such as overdye, with the buyers, the specification given here is not the
embroideries, embellishments, laser prints, screen prints, final selling prices in all the cases. From a student point
digital print, rotary print also adds to the fabric cost. of view, it gives us a fair idea of how the final selling
prices are calculated. Miscellaneous charges like stocking
MATERIAL CHARGE maintenance, establishments, taxes and contingency
A variety of trim fabrics, trims, hangtags packaging materials charges are also calculated within the total mark up that is
etc. used by the company are sourced from different parts of levied.
the country.

TRANSPORT CHARGE
The buyers are based from outside the country, so a sizeable
amount of money is spent on transport. Upon final selection
of the designs, sample orders are done to check the usability of
fabrics, its functionality etc.

80 | Jyotsna Rane |2017

 COSTING

GENERAL COSTING OF FINAL FABRICS AND SAM( STANDARD ALLOWED MINUTE)

GARMENTS Price of fabric= fabric price/m * consumption
[{(Fabric Price/Metre X Consumption Of Fabric In One Price of Construction =SAM*Minutes
Garment) + Trim Cost + Wash Cost} X 1.1} + Mark Up] Embroidery Cost =No. Of stitches (Rs 2 per 1000
So, Fabric price/metre= 150 - 280 stitches approx)
Consumption of fabric in one garment
Long Sleeve = 1.75 mt.
Short Sleeve = 1.5 mt.
Trim Cost = 50 - 60
Wash Cost,
for basic = 10
for over dye = 50 -60
for pigment = 70 - 80
Mark Up = 320 - 350
Therefore, the final cost of the garment would be
[{(150 x 1.75) + 60 + 10} x 1.1 + 320]
= [{262.5 + 70} x 1.1 + 320]
= [{322.5 x 1.1} + 320 ]
= 363 + 320
= 683

FABRIC COSTING
Fabrics sourced from mills cost around 90-100 / metre
For coarser fabrics, 40s, 50s = 125 -145 / metre
For finer fabrics, 60s, 80s, 120s = 160 - 180/ metre
For special yarns, it goes till 280 / metre
For prints, digital 400-800/ metre
screen, 120-150 / metre

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82 | Jyotsna Rane |2017
 CONCLUSION

The graduation project was an intense, interesting and a fruitful experience, it made me learn how
different it is to work in an industry than in a classroomnand how challenging it is to execute the same
work in the industry. On the succesful completion of this Graduation Project,I can proudly say that I have
gained immense knowledge regarding the organization and functioning of an export house and how
different it is when compared to working for a retail brand. I have learnt about the multiple international
fashion brands and their specific design demands according to their moodboards based on international
trends. I have also realised that costing is one major aspect of design.It is not always about how fancy
a design is,but how effective in terms of costing, sellability, aesthetic appeal and functionality that
determines whether a design will sell or not. It made me realise how much efforts goes into bringing each
garment on the floor and how important a designer’s perspective can be in this task. Being associated
with such a dynamic organization, Aquarelle India Pvt. Ltd. has given me a postive sense of achievement.
This experience has been truely rewarding and has helped me gain an insightful knowledge of what I
would like to do in future.

Graduation Project | Textile Design 2013-17 83

84 | Jyotsna Rane |2017
 BIBLIOGRAPHY

WEBSITES
1. WGSN (Worth Global Sourcing Network), Fashion trend
forecasting and analysis
Accessed February 2017. http://www.wgsn.com/en/
2. “Wikipedia”
Accessed January 2017. http://www.wikipedia.com/.
3. “Pinterest”
Accessed January 2017. https://in.pinterest.com/
4. CIEL Group
Accessed May 2017. http://www.cielgroup.com/
5. Aquarelle India Brochure
Accessed May 2017. bd_3204-brochure_aquarelle-1

MAGAZINES
1. Textile View, March 2017
2. Vogue UK, February 2017
3. Collezioni: March 2017

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Jyotsna Rane |2017