H&M

QUALITY STANDARDS
& REQUIREMENTS

Global Quality Department

Valid for all brands in H&M group

May 2013
 General 4
Definitions 5
Abbreviations used in this document 5
Colour Fastness properties 6
CF to artificial light - Xenon test 6
CF to household laundering 6
CF to dry cleaning 6
CF to dry rubbing 7
CF to wet rubbing 8
CF to water 8
CF to bleeding 8
CF to chlorinated water 8
Appearance test to chlorinated water 9
CF to sea water 9
Appearance test to Sea water 9
CF to oil 9
CF to perspiration 9
CF - Dye transfer in storage 9
CF to hot pressing 10
CF to phenolic yellowing 10
CF to PVC migration 10
CF to saliva 10
Corrosion - Dip test for swimwear decorations 10
Corrosion - Small accessories 10
Physical properties 11
Deviation of fibre content 11
Dimensional stability to household laundering 11
Dimensional stability to dry clean 11
Appearance after dry clean 11
Appearance after 5 times wash 12
Twisting 12
Appearance of fabric and seams 12
Abrasion resistance – Children’s functional outerwear 13
Abrasion resistance - socks and tights 13
Air permeability 13
Cold test 13
Conditioning test for stickers 13
Drop test 13
Key holder test 13
Pile loss - Abrasion resistance 14
Pilling resistance - ICI pilling box 15
Pilling resistance - Martindale 15
Rain test 15
Seam slippage 15
Snagging resistance 15
Stretch & Recovery 15
Surface wetting of fabric 16
Tear strength – leather 16
Tensile strength 16
Tear strength 16
Water penetration 17
Water penetration after abrasion – Children’s functional outerwear 17
Water vapour permeability 17
Wicking performance 17
Zipper test – general 17
Safety requirements 18
Flammability test – general 18
Flammability test – snug fit nightwear 19
Flammability test – snug fit nightwear 19
Flammability test – nightwear 19
Flammability – cigarette test 19

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements

May 2013 2(22)
 CE test – Toys 20
Pull force test 20
Reflector test 20
Thermal resistance 20
UV protection 20
Zipper puller test 20
Down & Feather filled products – Content specific 21
Down & Feather filled products – Physical properties 22

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements

May 2013 3(22)
GENERAL

The requirements apply to all products in textile, leather/suede, plastic, bone, wood, metal, straw
and paper. The same requirements apply to products in recycled materials.

Below products are excluded in this document. Requirements and test methods for those are
specified in separate product specifications:
• Home products (applicable for H&M Home)
• Footwear
• Sunglasses
• Cosmetics

For some products product specifications are available, specifying required properties for the actual
product. For example; Ski wear, Winter overalls, Swimwear, Alice bands etc.

• All H&M documents referred to in this document is found on the H&M Group Supplier web
site. User name and password is distributed by your local H&M office.
• H&M generally refers to International and European standard methods (ISO and EN) which
are possible to purchase worldwide. For tests referring to H&M methods the test method,
sampling and definition is found in H&M Lab manual.
• Specification of equipment and consumables are found in the H&M Lab manual.
• All requirements are given in minimum value, e.g. 3-4 means equal to or higher grade than
3-4.
• The latest published standard method is valid.
• All H&M in-house tests are performed in unconditioned atmosphere.
• All hangtags referred to in this document must follow H&M artwork.

The production must correspond to all H&M requirements and restrictions in all aspects, even those
not randomly tested by H&M.

In case of contradicting test results the test result of H&M will prevail.

Special requirements for china portion: Dry & wet rubbing

The China requirement in “Quality Standards & Requirements” must be fulfilled to ship China
quantity. Orders that meet the general requirements but not the China requirements can be shipped
to all countries except China. China standard applies to garments before wash and warning
hangtags will not be enough.

Size groups Sizes

Baby’s products Products intended for babies up to 1,5 year. (e.g. size 44-92cl)
Children’s products Products intended for children 1-14 years (e.g. size 92-170cl)*
Smaller children’s products Products intended for children 1-8 years (e.g. size 92-128cl)*
Older children’s products Products intended for children 8-14 years (e.g. size 134-170 cl)
Adult’s products Ladies’; 32-56, XS - 3XL, Men’s; XS-XL, 42-56, Short 88-108,
Long 144-156

*when size 92 is included in the size group 92-128 cl, it is not covered by the requirement for
baby’s products.

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements

May 2013 4(22)
Definitions
Apparel accessories = scarves, hats, gloves, mittens, belts, bags etc.
Accessories = small accessories and apparel accessories
Bonded seams = textiles joint by locally applied adhesive
Functional outerwear = winter overalls, rainwear, ski wear including hats & gloves. One or
more functions are requested e.g. waterproof, water resistant, water
repellent, windproof, breathable
Functional wear = sportswear, winter overalls, rainwear, ski wear including hats &
gloves. One or more functions are requested e.g. waterproof, water
resistant, water repellent, windproof, breathable
Leather = Hide or skin with its original fibrous structure more or less intact,
tanned to be imputrescible, where the hair or wool may or may not
have been removed, whether or not the hide or skin has been split
into layers or segmented either before or after tanning and where
any surface coating or surface layer, however applied, is not thicker
than 0.15mm.
Microfibre = a fibre or filament of linear density below 1.3 dtex (decitex).
Neon colour = colour containing optical brightening agents
Nightwear = bathrobes including towel with cap, dressing gowns, night shirts,
night dresses and pyjamas.
Pile fabric = velvet, velour, corduroy etc.
Plastic = all types of plastic materials e.g. PU, PEVA, silicone and rubber
Products = garments and accessories
Pullers with play value = decorative pullers / easy grippable
Pyjama = one or two-pieced nightwear with legs
Sleep bags = full length fabric bag with neck opening and armholes but without
sleeves, hood or specific areas for feet and legs
Small accessories = hair accessories (hairclips, terry bands, Alice bands etc.) jewelleries
(earrings, necklace, bracelet etc.)
Textile = natural and man-made textile fibres
Solid = one single color
Plain = without pattern or with patterns that create an even overall
impression such as slub yarn or neps for example
Overdye = to dye (a fabric, yarn, etc.) excessively

Abbreviations used in this document

CF = Colour fastness
CIL (mcd/lux) = millicandela per lux
cl= centilong
g = gram
g/m2 = gram per square meter
g/m Pah = gram per meter Pascal hours
mm = millimetre
mm/s = millimetre per second
N = Newton
Nm = Newton meter
OBA = Optical Brightening Agents
rev = revolutions
sec = seconds
W = Wales (per inch)

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements

May 2013 5(22)
COLOUR FASTNESS PROPERTIES

TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENT

ISO 105-B02 Ski wear including gloves, Change in colour: 4
CF to artificial Method 2 hats & winter overalls
light - Xenon Beach wear, e.g. sun hats
test Blue wool reference & sarongs
grade 5
Swimwear fabrics including Change in colour: 5
embroidery, print etc.
Use blue wool Plastic decorations on No major change
reference fabric from swimwear, e.g. sequins,
SDC. plastic bead, buckle etc.
Exceptions
Swimwear in white colour Change in colour: 4
with OBA
Swimwear in neon colours Change in colour: 2
and very bright colours of
pink, turquoise, yellow,
purple and green
H&M Method according Products labelled with care Colour staining after 1
CF to to H&M Lab Manual. instructions, possible to wash: 3-4
household wash in water Change in colour after 1
laundering (based on ISO 6330, and 5 washes: 4
ISO 3759 & ISO 5077) Cross staining after 1
wash: 4-5
Detergent for coloured
Exceptions
products.
Whole products, no Solid dark coloured Colour staining after 1
dummy loading products in wash1: 2
- 100% polyester Change in colour after 1
- polyester blends ≥ 30% and 5 washes: 4
polyester

Neon coloured products No major change of neon

with care instructions, character/OBA effect
2
possible to wash in water
Change in colour after 1
and 5 washes: 3-4
ISO 105 D01 Products labelled with “dry Change in colour: 4
CF to dry clean only” or dry clean as Cross staining: 4-5
cleaning optional cleaning method

1
For results below 3-4 “Wash with similar colours” must be mentioned in the care instruction.

2
If the colour change result is 3-4 the hang tag for colour fading must be used. (This product has a unique appearance
thanks to a special dyeing process. Colours will fade over time and different products may vary in colour).
Note! Products which also need dry rubbing warning according to H&M requirements must instead have the combined hang
tag which warns for both dry rubbing and fading.

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements

May 2013 6(22)
 TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENT
ISO 105-X12 Adult’s & Children’s 3-4
CF to dry products
rubbing Face & reverse side. China portion
Before & after wash or Products intended for
dry clean. babies up to 3 years (e.g.
China requirement 44-98cl): 4
applies before wash
Baby’s products 4

H&M Method According Small accessories not Jewellery: 2-3

to H&M Lab Manual possible to test according Hair accessories: 3-4
(based on ISO 105- to ISO 105-X12
X12)
Face & reverse side.
Before & after wash or
dry clean.
Exceptions
Choose applicable
Baby’s & smaller children’s 3
method from above
products:
- Placement prints on front China portion
side of garment, in foil or Products intended for
pigment babies up to 3 years (e.g.
- Pile fabric 44-98cl): 4

Baby’s & smaller children’s 2-3

products:
China portion
2
- Denim Products intended for
babies up to 3 years (e.g.
44-98cl): 4
Other: 3
Older children’s & adult’s 3
products:
- Placement prints on front
side of garment, in foil or
pigment
- Pile fabric
- Linen
- Wool in rough structure
- Peached products
Older children’s & adult’s 2-3
products:
- Indigo dye2 China portion
- Denim2 3
- Pigment dye2
- Real suede2
H&M aims to reach the general requirements for all orders; due to technical limitation for some
qualities and dye/print methods the lowest acceptable results for dry rubbing is stated in the
exception list. Results below the general requirement must always be an agreement between
supplier and H&M, even though stated in the exception list.
2
Denim, pigment dye, indigo dye and real suede; if the dry rubbing result is in between 3-4 and lowest acceptable result the
extra information - The colour of this product may transfer onto light coloured materials - must be mentioned in the care
instruction. A hangtag/sticker with the same information must also be attached to the product.
Exception: Raw denim and Rinse wash should always have dry rub warning in the care label as well as on hang tag/sticker,
even though P/S test result is 3-4 or better.
TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENT

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements

May 2013 7(22)
 ISO 105-X12 Swimwear 3
CF to wet Face & reverse side Functional wear
rubbing Before & after wash or
Bath robes 2-3
dry clean
Morning gowns
China portion
China requirement
applies before wash Textile products 2-3

Exceptions
- Denim No wet rubbing
- Fake fur garments requirement
- Separately sold ties
- Woven wool
jackets/coats/blazers
without padding
- Separately sold woven
belts
- Adult/ big children’s
woven garments with
peach affection with a
composition of cotton or
cotton/elastane
ISO 105-E01 or Colour staining: 3-4
CF to water Chinese standard All products Change in colour: 4
GB/T 5713 Cross staining: 4-5

Textiles: Use ISO or Exceptions

GB adjacent fibre
Other: Use multifibre, Colour staining: 4
type DW Umbrellas Change in colour: 4
Cross staining: 4-5
Sampling & definition
according to H&M Lab Colour staining: 2-3
manual Dip dyed straw hats Change in colour: 4
Cross staining: 4-5
H&M Method Jewellery and hair 3-4
CF to bleeding according to H&M Lab accessories
Manual
Exceptions: 2-3
Jewellery with feathers
ISO 105-E03 Swimwear fabrics including Change in colour: 4
CF to concentration of embroidery, print etc. Cross staining: 4-5
chlorinated chlorine 50 mg/l
water Exceptions
Swimwear in white colour Change in colour: 3-4
with OBA Cross staining: 4-5
Swimwear in neon colours Change in colour: 3
and very bright colours of Cross staining: 4-5
pink, turquoise, yellow,
purple and green

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements

May 2013 8(22)
TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENT
Modified ISO 105-E03 Metallic & plastic No major change
Appearance Concentration of decorations used on
test to chlorine 50 mg/l swimwear
chlorinated
water Place the decoration in (E.g. sequins, plastic
the chlorine solution in beads, buckles etc.)
a steel container,
preferably together
with a piece of fabric of
the swimwear
ISO 105-E02 Swimwear Colour staining: 3-4
CF to sea Change in colour: 4
water Cross staining: 4-5

Referring to ISO 105- Plastic decorations used on No major change

Appearance E02 swimwear
test to Sea - Soak/place the
water sample in a glass bowl (E.g. sequins, plastic
with 3% sodium beads, buckle etc.)
chloride salt solution
(3% NaCl),
- Place the bowl in an
oven at the temp.
40°C for 4 hours
Modified DIN 53160 Baby’s & children’s bibs & No discoloration
CF to oil aprons in size 44-104 cl
Use olive oil (or similar Both crocking cloth and
oil used for cooking) product shall be
instead of saliva evaluated
solution

Before and after wash

ISO 105-E04 or Baby’s textile products Acid & Alkaline
CF to Chinese standard GB/T Colour staining: 3-4
perspiration 3922 China portion: Change in colour: 3-4
Products intended for Cross staining: 4-5
Use ISO or GB babies up to 3 years (e.g.
adjacent fabric, or up to 98cl)
multifibre type DW
Adult’s & children’s textile Acid & Alkaline
product Colour staining: 3
Sampling according to
Change in colour: 3
H&M Lab manual
Cross staining: 4-5

Modified AATCC 163 Textile details such as Colour staining: 4

CF - Dye Option 1 prints, labels, badges, and Change in colour: 4
transfer in other trims in contrast Cross staining: 4-5
storage Test specimens to be colours.
size 4 x 10cm

Use ISO or GB
adjacent fibre and
multifibre type DW

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements

May 2013 9(22)
TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENT
ISO 105-X11 Textile details such as Colour staining: 4
CF to hot prints, labels, badges, and Change in colour: 4
pressing other trims in contrast Cross staining: 4-5
colours.
ISO 105-X18 All products Change in colour: 4
CF to phenolic
yellowing

Modified ISO 105-X10 Cosmetic/toilet bags Colour staining: 3

CF to PVC Temperature 40°C
migration

Chinese standard GB/T Baby’s products Colour staining: 4

CF to saliva 18886 Change in colour: 4
China portion: Cross staining: 4-5
Textiles: Use ISO or Products intended for
GB adjacent fibre babies up to 3 years (e.g.
Other: Use multifibre up to 98cl)
type DW

Sampling according to
H&M Lab manual
ISO 8442-2 Metallic decorations used No corrosion
Corrosion modified to simulate on swimwear
- Dip test for sea water using:
swimwear - 3% sodium chloride
decorations salt solution (3% NaCl)
- Temperature 40°C
- Immerse once a
minute for 6 hours
ISO 9227 Metal plated small ≥6
Corrosion - 6 hours accessories
- Small - 5% salt solution
accessories - Evaluate according to
ISO 10289

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements

May 2013 10(22)
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENT

ISO 1833 All textile products If 100% of the same fibre,
Deviation of no deviation is allowed
fibre content
If fibre blend:
Fibre Tolerance
content in percent
units
≤ 1% ± 0,3
> 1 to 2% ± 0,6
> 2 to 3% ± 0,9
> 3 to 4% ± 1,2
> 4 to 9% ± 1,5
> 9% ± 3,0
H&M Method according Products with care instructions, possible to wash in
Dimensional to H&M Lab Manual. water
stability to
Woven textile products Length: ± 3%
household (based on ISO 6330,
Width: ± 3%
laundering ISO 3759 & ISO 5077)

Detergent for coloured Knitted textile products Length: ± 5%

garments. General Width: ± 5%
Whole garments, no
dummy loading
Jersey products After 1 wash:
Length: ± 5%
Width: ± 5%

H&M brand:
After 5 washes:
Length: +/- 7%
Width: + 5%, -7%

All other brands:

After 5 washes:
Length: ± 5%
Width: ± 5%

100% Viscose jersey After 1 and 5 washes:

≤130gsm Length & width:
±7% before iron after wash
±5% after iron after wash

ISO 3759 Products with care Woven fabric:

Dimensional instruction “dry clean only” Length ± 3%
stability to dry or dry clean as optional Width ± 3%
clean cleaning method
Knitted fabric:
Length ± 5%
Width ± 5%
ISO 3175-2 Products with care No major change
Appearance instruction “dry clean only”
after dry clean or dry clean as optional
cleaning method

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements

May 2013 11(22)
TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENT
H&M Method according Products with care No major change
Appearance to H&M Lab Manual. instructions, possible to
after 5 times wash in water Major change includes, but is
not limited to:
wash 5 times washing and
drying cycles - Product loses its shape
- Puckering of seams
(see Dimensional - Seams or linking breaks
- Strings or similar
stability to household
unravels
laundering) - Hand feel changes
(stiff/harsh)
- Material breaks / holes
appear
- Uneven fading/shading
(different parts of the
same product must have
the same hue)
- Cracking or vanishing
print
- Distinct surface change
- Bulky and uneven
wadding
- Interface detaches or
becomes bubbly
- Care label not readable
- Excessive fibre loss

Exceptions
Underwear & sportswear No major change
with bonded seams shall be
washed and evaluated after
20 times wash.

H&M method according General ≤ 5% or ≤ 1 cm

Twisting to H&M Lab Manual.
Trousers ≤ 8% or ≤ 1 cm
Measure after wash at
bottom hem
Knitted textile products H&M brand:
Plain / solid / pattern- After 1 and 5 washes:
(see Dimensional
matched striped products ≤ 7% or ≤ 1 cm
stability to household
without details
laundering)
All other brands:
After 1 and 5 washes:
≤ 5% or ≤ 1 cm

Knitted textile products After 1 and 5 washes:

with details such as: ≤ 5% or ≤ 1 cm

Pockets, plackets, zippers,

construction technical
details such as (center back
seams), all over prints
AATCC 143 Option 2 Products with “Easy Iron” 3
Appearance of finish
fabric and 5 times washing and
seams drying cycles

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements

May 2013 12(22)
TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENT
EN 530 part 2 Children’s functional After > 8000 rev
Abrasion - Loading: 9kPa outerwear in size 86-140 cl No holes
resistance – - Abradant: Sandpaper Knee- and bottom area
Children’s Grit No 100 Grade F2.
functional Abradant should be Reinforcement fabric
outerwear replaced and debris
removed every 1000
Children’s functional After > 5000 rev
revolution
outerwear in size 86-140 cl No holes
Knee- and bottom area

Other qualities

EN 13770-1 Socks and tights (except After > 7000 rev

Abrasion After 5000 revolutions micro fibre) No thinning
resistance - stop and evaluate after
socks and tights each 1000 revolution

ISO 9237 Functional outerwear with < 20 mm/s

Air permeability “wind proof” function

Bursting ISO 13938-1 or Enzyme treated and/or < 200gsm: 250 kPa
strength ISO 13938-2 overdyed jersey products

Testing area: 50cm² 100% natural and/or

regenerated fibers

H&M Method according Functional outerwear for No major change in hand

Cold test to H&M Lab manual use in cold weather, e.g. feel (The fabric should not
skiwear and winter overalls become stiff)

H&M method Stickers (e.g. size stickers) The sticker shall remain
Conditioning properly on fabric during
test for stickers Preparation according the process.
to H&M Lab Manual No glue stains or colour
change on fabric after
removal.

H&M Method according Accessories See H&M Lab manual

Drop test to H&M Lab manual
Selection according to
H&M Lab Manual

Key holder test QB/T 1143 Key chain & key ring for According to the standard
Clause 5.1 -5.7 China market.

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements

May 2013 13(22)
TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENT
ISO 12947-2/AC Pile fabric e.g. velvet General
Pile loss - Annex A:2 7000 rev
Abrasion (For treated pile fabrics see
resistance No preparatory below) No visible bare parts must
treatment should be appear
done on any cord
Corduroy ≤ 19 W = 7000 rev
> 19 W
No visible bare parts must
(For treated pile fabrics see appear
below)
> 19 W = 5000 rev
No visible bare parts must
appear
Pile loss - Treated pile fabrics

Garment Enzyme Heavy

Products Quality
wash wash treated area
All

Corduroy ≥21W without pre-treatment 3000 rev 3000 rev 3000 rev

1-19W with pre-treatment

Corduroy
≥ 20W without pre-treatment 7000 rev 5000 rev 3000 rev

Stretch 1-19W with pre-treatment 7000 rev 7000 rev 3000 rev
corduroy

≥ 20W without pre-treatment 5000 rev 5000 rev 3000 rev

Bottoms

Velvet
corduroy, 1-19W without pre-treatment 7000 rev 5000 rev 3000 rev
Velvet stretch
corduroy
Velveteen,
Stretch velvet with pre-treatment 7000 rev 5000 rev 3000 rev

Velour without pre-treatment 5000 rev 5000 rev 3000 rev

baby wear

All pile fabrics 1-20W with pre-treatment 3000 rev 3000 rev 3000 rev
Tops &

Velour without pre-treatment 3000 rev 3000 rev 3000 rev

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements

May 2013 14(22)
TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENT
ISO 12945-1 Knitted textile products 14 400 rev: 3
Pilling The test should be
resistance performed before wash
- ICI pilling box
Exceptions
Use the grading
scheme and EMPA Wool/wool blends 7 200 rev: 3
photo scales when
evaluating
Lamb’s wool/lamb’s wool 7 200 rev: 2-3
blends containing >20%
lamb’s wool
ISO 12945-2 Woven textile products 2000 rev: 3
Pilling The test should be
resistance performed before wash
- Martindale
Exceptions
Use the grading
scheme and EMPA Pyjama & shirts in brushed See appearance after wash
photo scales when fabric in 100% cotton &
evaluating cotton/synthetic blends
pilling to be evaluated in
appearance after 5 times
wash test
AATCC 35 Umbrellas <1g
Rain test

ISO 13936-2 Woven textile fabrics Seam opening

Seam slippage Seam according to weight ≤ 6 mm
ready-made product
≤ 220 g/ m2 – load applied
The dimensions of the 60 N
clamping area shall be
25mm x 25 mm. The
Woven textile fabrics Seam opening
other jaw of each
weight ≤ 6 mm
clamp in a
perpendicular direction
> 220 g/ m2 – load applied
shall be 25 mm x at
120 N
least 40 mm wide.
ASTM D3939 Fabrics in knitted microfibre Along wales & courses: 3
Snagging
resistance

ASTM D3107 Woven textile fabrics with Maximum growth:

Stretch & After 3 washes elastane <20% stretch: 4%
Recovery 4lbs load 20-35% stretch: 6%
>35% stretch: 8%
Fabric stretch under
loading after 30min Woven textile fabrics with >35% stretch
(weft) elastane labelled as “super <4% growth
stretch“4
Fabric growth after
static extension for
30min recovery (weft)

4
Note! Hang tag should only be used upon buyer’s request, not by default depending on test result. (Super stretch,
High elasticity, Shape that will last)

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements

May 2013 15(22)
TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENT
ISO 4920 Functional outerwear with Before wash: 4
Surface wetting Temp. of water 20°C either function: After 5 washing/drying
of fabric - Spray - “Waterproof” cycles: 3
test - “Water resistant”
- “Water repellent”

ISO 3377-2 Leather garments >30 N

Tear strength –
leather Leather gloves >15 N

ISO 3376 Leather gloves >10 N/mm

Tensile strength

ISO 13937-2 Woven textile fabrics >10 N

Tear strength The width of the jaws Tops / blouses /
should be 75 mm, but dresses / fancy jackets
should not be less than Not applicable for light
the width of the test weight fabrics
specimen. < 90 g/m2, as chiffon,
georgette & voile
General
Woven textile fabrics >15 N
Test should be
Bottoms
performed before wash
Not applicable for light
weight fabrics < 90 g/m2,
Treated denim
as chiffon, georgette &
(Scrapped or chemical
voile
treated) should be
tested before and after Woven textile fabrics <150gsm: >10N
3 washing & drying Jackets, coats & other 150-200gsm: >15N
cycles outerwear >200gsm: >20N
Woven textile fabrics >10N
Festival rain poncho
Knitted textile fabrics <150gsm: >10N
Rainwear 150-200gsm: >15N
>200gsm: >20N
General denim (bottoms Scrapped / chemical
and jackets) treated: >15N
Raw & untreated: >20N
The requirement applies to
lowest received value, not
the mean value
Boy´s (92 -170cl) denim > 20N
bottoms The requirement applies to
lowest received value, not
the mean value

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements

May 2013 16(22)
TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENT
EN 20811 or ISO 811 Functional outerwear with Fabric and over
Water Increase of water “waterproof” function sealed/taped seams
penetration pressure 60 After 5 washing/drying
cmH2O/min cycles: > 2000 mm H2O
Temp. of water 20°C
Functional outerwear with Fabric and over
The requirement
“water resistant” function sealed/taped seams
applies to lowest
After 5 washing/drying
received value, not the
cycles: > 1500 mm H2O
mean value.
See test method for: Children’s functional After > 8000 rev
Water outerwear in size 86-140 cl
penetration - Water penetration Knee- and bottom area Waterproof function:
after abrasion – > 2000 mm H2O
Children’s - Abrasion Reinforcement fabric
functional resistance – Children’s Water resistant function:
outerwear functional outerwear > 1500 mm H2O
with “Water proof” or
Children’s functional After > 5000 rev
“Water resistant”
outerwear in size 86-140 cl
function
Knee- and bottom area Waterproof function:
> 2000 mm H2O
Other qualities
Water resistant function:
> 1500 mm H2O
ISO15496 Functional wear with ≥ 0,1 g/m Pah
Water vapour Measure before wash “breathable” function
permeability

H&M Method according Functional wear with Before wash and after 10
Wicking to H&M Lab Manual “quick dry” function washing/drying cycles
performance (based on JIS L1907
Section 7.1.5, Vertical Knitted:
wicking) > 8 cm after 30min
Woven:
> 5 cm after 30min

BS 3084 Products with zipper See table 2

Zipper test –
general Tests: See table 2 Note! For zipper pullers Minimum performance code
with play value on baby’s according to end use
& children’s products,
see also: General: B
Safety tests / Zipper puller Coats, jackets, overalls: C
test - Resistance to twist of Cosmetic/toilet bags: B
pull and slider

Table 2 B C D E
Strength of puller attachment (min. N) 80/90* 200 250 300
Strength of closed-end (min. N) 60 80 100 140
Strength of top stop (min. N) 70/90* 90 110 130
Strength of open-end fastener box (min. N) 70/90* 90 120 150
Resistance to reciprocation (min. cycles) 500 500 500 500
Lateral strength of fastener (min. N) 200 250 370 470
Lateral strength of open-end attachment (min. N) 70 90 120 160
Strength of slider locking device (min. N) 15 25 40 60
Open-end fastener single stringer slider retention (min.N) 60 70 90 120
*If by exception B is used for baby’s & children’s products 90 N is valid.

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements

May 2013 17(22)
SAFETY REQUIREMENTS

TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENT

Time of flame spread:
Flammability 16 CFR 1610 Adult’s garments &
test – general apparel accessories Face side:
For test of long pile fabric, fake Mean value >5 seconds.
fur etc. ignition time: 3 seconds Individual specimens must not burn faster than 4 sec.
Requirements (for other qualities 1 second
for nightwear: according to the standard) Surface flash must self-extinguish before reaching the marker thread without base
see next page. burn. If the marker thread is reached after 5 sec, the surface flash is OK.
Note! All qualities must fulfil Long pile fabric, fake fur etc.:
H&M’s requirements. Self-extinguish

Synthetics are NOT excluded Reverse side - raised surface including long pile/fake fur used for lining
from testing as mentioned in 16 etc:
CFR 1610. Mean value >5 seconds. Individual specimens must not burn faster than 4 sec.
Or surface flash <5 sec, provided the intensity of the flame is so low as not to ignite
Fabrics to be tested include, but or fuse the base fabric (definition acc. to class 1).
are not limited to: Time of flame spread:
- Fabrics with plain surfaces with
Baby’s & Children’s
a weight less than 100g/m2 Face side:
- Fabrics with raised surfaces garments & apparel
Mean value >7 seconds.
accessories except
Individual specimens must not burn faster than 6 sec.
Note! Fabrics with plain surfaces nightwear Surface flash must self-extinguish before reaching the marker thread without base
heavier than 100g/m2 in loose burn. If the marker thread is reached after 7 sec, the surface flash is OK.
construction and/or with loose Disguise costumes US Long pile fabric, fake fur etc.:
twisted yarn might also be & CA portions Self-extinguish
flammable and must be tested to
make sure it passes the Reverse side:
requirements. Raised surface - including long pile/fake fur used for lining etc.:
Mean value >7 seconds.
Always consult H&M before Individual specimens must not burn faster than 6 sec.
usage of flame retardants. Or surface flash <7 sec, provided the intensity of the flame is so low as not to ignite
or fuse the base fabric (definition acc. to class 1).
No flame retardants are allowed
on baby or children’s products.

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements

April 2013 18(22)
TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENT

Flammability 16 CFR 1610 Children’s snug fit Same as general requirement according to 16 CFR 1610
test – snug fit pyjama size 80-170cl5
nightwear US portion

Flammability CAN/CGSB 4.2 Children’s snug fit Same as general requirement according to 16 CFR 1610
test – snug fit pyjama size 80-170cl5
nightwear CA portion

Flammability EN 14878 Baby’s & Children’s Minimum

Class Application Parameters
test – nightwear requirements
nightwear and sleep bags A - Children’s nightwear incl. Surface flash No surface flash
pyjamas class A Time of flame 3rd marker thread (520
size 74-182cl5 spread mm) not severed in less
- Children’s sleep bags than 15 s
B Children’s pyjamas class B Surface flash No surface flash
size 74-182cl5 Time of flame 3rd marker thread (520
spread mm) not severed in less
than 10 s
C Baby’s nightwear According to general
and sleep bags req. 16 CFR 1610
size 44-68cl5
Exception for GB:
Nightdresses, nightshirts, dressing gowns, bathrobes, towel with cap in
size 68-182 cl:

Test method: BS 5722, refurbishing according to BS 5651.

Each test specimens should meet the requirements for time of flame spread:
25 seconds or more for a distance of 300 mm and/or
50 seconds or more for a distance of 600 mm

Flammability ISO 12952-1 Baby’s & Children’s No ignition

– cigarette sleep bags
test FR portion

5
Note, size break differ from H&M definition of baby’s products and children’s products. Information regarding classification of pyjamas (A or B) can be found in the m-list.

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements

April 2013 19(22)
TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENT
EN 71 all applicable parts Toys including disguise According to the
CE test – Toys costumes standard

EN 71-1 Baby’s & children’s 90 N

Pull force test products
All buttons / accessories,
which fits completely into
the small part testing
cylinder
EN13356 Adult’s, children’s & baby’s Photometric test
Reflector test For reflective materials on products with attached 400 CIL (mcd/lux)
products with care reflective material or
instructions; measure accessory made of
after 5 washing & drying reflective material
cycles

Preparation according to
H&M Lab Manual
BS 8510 Clause 7.2 Baby’s & Children’s sleep ≤ 3,5 Tog
Thermal bags
resistance

AS/NZS 4399 Swimwear with UV UPF 50+

UV protection protective function

ASTM D2061 Baby’s & children’s 0.50 Nm

Zipper puller section 52 - 61 products with pullers with
test - play value
resistance to
twist of pull Note! See also:
and slider Physical properties / Zipper
test - general

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements

April 2013 19 (22)
DOWN & FEATHER FILLED PRODUCTS – CONTENT SPECIFIC
- Valid for duck or goose filling in grey or white colour

TEST STANDARD METHOD REQUIREMENT COMMENT

GENERAL
Maximum Broken & Damaged Feathers: 2.0%
Maximum Landfowl: 0.4% Req. maximum 0.8% if AUS market is excluded
Maximum Large Feathers: 1.0% Large Feathers = feathers >7cm in length
Maximum Residue: 1.0%
Quill Feathers: Not allowed Quill Feathers = feathers >12cm in length
Note! Only required for white materials or if
Maximum Coloured Down & Feather: 1.0%
labelled as “WHITE”
Maximum Duck Feather: 15% Note! Only required for goose down products
Content EN 12131 LABEL = 80% DOWN 20% FEATHER
Minimum Required Down Cluster: 80% See below definition of Down Cluster
Maximum Down Fibre: 7%
Maximum Feather Fibre: 7%
Maximum Total Fibres: 7% Fibres = down fibre and feather fibre
LABEL = 90% DOWN 10% FEATHER
Minimum Required Down Cluster: 90% See below definition of Down Cluster
Maximum Down Fibre: 8.5%
Maximum Feather Fibre: 8.5%
Maximum Total Fibres: 8.5% Fibres = down fibre and feather fibre

Down Cluster = the group of components: down, nestling down and plumule. (Down fibre and other components are specifically excluded)

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements

April 2013 21(22)
DOWN & FEATHER FILLED PRODUCTS – PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
- Valid for duck or goose filling in grey or white colour

STANDARD
TEST REQUIREMENT COMMENT
METHOD
Duck: >14cm No tolerance on claimed/labelled percentage if we
Fill Power JIS 1903
Goose: >15cm were to write which fill power.
Species IDFB part 17 Minimum 80%
Oxygen Number EN 1162 ≤ 4.8 Req. ≤ 10 if JP market is excluded.
Mesophilic aerobic
< 1 000 000 CFU/g
bacteria count
Faecal
< 100 CFU/g
streptococci count If the oxygen index number is ≤ 10, no further
EN 1884
Sulphite-reducing analysis of the microbiological state is necessary.
< 100 CFU/g
clostridium count
Presence of
None in 20g
salmonella
Turbidity EN 1164 ≥ 500 mm
Moisture content GB/T 14272-2011 ≤ 13%
Fat & Oil GB/T 14272-2011 Range of 0.5% to 1.3%
Odour GB/T 14272-2011 < grade 2
According to individual
Feather length
product spec.
Down Proof EN 12132-1
≤ 15 fibres penetrating
Properties (rubbing test)
Label tolerance: No tolerance on down content
Labelling N/A According to country specific standards less than specified on label
(see Labelling Rules & Regulations for further info)
Net Weight of
GB/T 14272-2011 According to test result Label tolerance: ±5%
Filling Material

China portion: It’s not allowed to use thin film inside the garment (breathability issues may cause odour and mould).

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements

April 2013 22(22)