RAW Vs JPEG: Which Should You Be Using?
RAW Vs JPEG: Which Should You Be Using?
Now, that might seem rather obvious, and you might expect all image file
formats to accurately store what your camera’s sensor captured.
Also, the JPEG format is very good at reducing file sizes but it does this by
using compression techniques which throw away a lot of the detail and
information in your photos. JPEG is an 8-bit technology, meaning
that each combination of red, green and blue (RGB) pixel can be one of
16.8 million possible tones. Sounds great, doesn’t it?
But the RAW image format uses 14-bit technology, giving an incredible 4.4
trillion different possible tones per RGB pixel combination. This translates
into a much wider dynamic range – both in relation to pixel brightness and
pixel color.
A good visual example of the quality difference between a JPEG and RAW
image of the same scene is a gradient in a sunset – where the dark sky at
the top of the image gradually fades into the bright sunlight on the
horizon.
We can’t show you a real RAW image because it’s not a suitable format for
displaying on the web. But the two side-by-side images below are
representative of the difference between a JPEG and RAW image, with a
slight exaggeration to emphasize the difference for illustration purposes.
The image on the left (below) represents the JPEG image. The banding
effect is due to the JPEG format not having enough different colors
(between the blue at the top and the orange at the bottom) to create a
continuous gradient.
The image on the right (below) represents the RAW image, and the
increase in quality is immediately apparent. The RAW image simply has a
wider range of colors it can use, resulting in the seamless, continuous
gradient you see below.
The main downside to shooting RAW images is that the image file sizes are
much larger. They can be anything between two and six times the size of
the equivalent JPEG images. This means you’ll run out of space on your
memory cards quicker, and it requires your camera to be capable of saving
such large files quickly, so it’s ready to take the next shot.
Luckily, memory cards are relatively cheap now and getting cheaper. So,
unless you’re shooting thousands of images a day, and quality isn’t a big
issue, you should always shoot RAW.
By default, your camera will shoot in the JPEG format. This makes sense
because most photographers starting out with photography won’t know or
care about the difference between image file formats.
To shoot RAW images, you first need to tell your camera that’s the format
you want to shoot in.
Below, you can see the Quality option is highlighted. The smooth arc
represents “fine quality”, and the “L” means Large. Therefore, I know I’ll
get the best quality JPEG the camera is capable of. But we haven’t told the
camera to shoot in RAW mode yet.
Selecting the Quality menu, I’m offered the option of shooting in either
RAW mode, JPEG mode, or both. Below you can see I’ve now selected to
shoot in RAW. I’ve also kept the fine quality, large JPEG option selected
too.
Your camera may allow you to choose one of several RAW modes, of
different image sizes (like my Canon 5D mk ii does). However, I
recommend that you always use the best, full-resolution RAW mode
available to you.
Exiting the Quality menu, my camera now confirms that I’ve selected both
RAW and fine quality, large JPEG formats.
Being able to shoot in RAW and JPEG at the same time is a great feature,
as you get the best of both worlds. You get the best quality RAW image for
when you need it, and the more convenient, portable JPEG image for less
critical purposes.
Once you’ve shot all your RAW images, you’ll want to transfer them from
your camera’s memory card onto your computer and import them into your
favorite editing program.
In Photoshop CC, when you try and open a RAW image (and it’s a RAW
format Photoshop CC recognizes), you’ll be prompted to makes some
decisions about how the image, or images, will be imported.
You can see the RAW image (the stacked cups and saucers) above. Above
the image are a row of image editing features you can use, such as
cropping, or rotating, etc. To the right of the image is a control panel which
lets you make adjustments to the RAW image settings.
These are settings which a JPEG image would have had “baked in”, had
we only shot in the JPEG format. Crucially, you can’t undo the
automatically applied settings for a JPEG image.
One enormous benefit of working with RAW images is that it’s non-
destructive. You’ll always have your original RAW image file to go back to.
In this article, you’ve had a brief introduction to RAW. You now know what
it is, and understand the benefits of shooting RAW vs JPEG.
To recap, the RAW image format retains the maximum amount of detail
about the captured scene. It makes no automatic image adjustments. This
results in greater dynamic range and smoother gradients from light to dark
regions in your images.
Think back to the last time you photographed a social event, or you went
away on holiday with your camera. Perhaps you returned home with
hundreds or even thousands of photos?
Maybe you noticed that most, or all, of your photos looked a little under-
exposed, or the colors were a little muted, or the images were a little soft.
Sure, you could work your way through each photo fixing them manually,
but it could take many hours, or even days.
When you batch edit photos in Lightroom you can achieve the same
results in a matter of minutes, leaving you time to do something more
interesting!
Before you batch edit photos in Lightroom CC, you’ll need to import the
photos you want to edit. However, if you’ve already imported the photos,
you can skip this section.
There are three main ways to import photos into Lightroom CC:
In the top center of the import window, specify how you want to add the
photos to the catalog:
Copy As DNG: Copies photos to the folder you choose and converts any
camera raw files to the Digital Negative (DNG) format.
Copy: Copies the photo files to the folder you choose, including any
sidecar files.
Move: Moves the photo files to the folder you choose, including any
sidecar files. Files are removed from their current location.
Add: Keeps the photo files in their current location.
2.3 Select The Photos You Want To Import From The Preview Area
Select the photos that you want to import from the preview area in the
center of the import window. A check mark in the upper-left corner of the
thumbnail indicates that the photo is selected for import.
Date Format: This option lets you choose a format for the dates.
2.5 Specify Other Import Options
Specify other options for the imported files using the panels on the right
side of the window. Most of these are beyond the scope of this article, but
they include options for backing up photos during import, ignoring
duplicates, and renaming files.
The easiest way to batch edit photos in Lightroom is to use one of the
existing presets offered by Lightroom CC.
Just in case you skipped the import section above, it’s worth noting that
you can apply a preset batch edit to all your photos at the import stage.
Jump back to section 2.5 above to discover how to do this.
If you’ve already imported your photos, no problem, you can still apply
presets to all your photos.
Firstly, go to the Library tab.
While you can simply apply a preset to all the selected photos, it’s better
to double-click on one of the photos so you can check the preset edits in
more detail before you apply them to all of the photos.
With the selected photo displayed large on your screen, look to the top
right of your screen and find the Quick Develop panel.
Click into the drop-down select box next to Saved Preset, and choose the
preset you want to try out. As soon as you click on a preset, the large
image is updated to have the preset applied. Choosing a different preset
overrides the previously selected preset.
3.2 Select Which Photos Will Receive The Preset’s Edit
Once you’re happy with the results, press COMMAND + A (on a Mac) or
CTRL + A (on a PC) to select all of the imported photos, or hold down the
COMMAND key (on a Mac) or the CTRL key (on a PC) whilst you click on
the imported photos you want to receive the preset edits.
For more control over how you batch edit photos in Lightroom, switch over
to the Develop tab.
Again, choose a photo from the imported photos to try your edits out on
by double-clicking on one of the thumbnail images, making it appear large
on the screen.
On the right-hand side of the screen, you’ll find a wide range of tools for
editing your photos. Exploring all these tools is beyond the scope of this
article, but let’s make some edits that we can apply to the photos we
imported earlier.
As you can see below, I’ve used the tools to edit the photo of the girl to be
black and white instead of color, and I’ve boosted the contrast and clarity
a little.
Next, to apply all these edits to all the photos I imported, we need to select
them all, by pressing COMMAND + A (on a Mac) or CTRL + A (on a PC).
Once that’s done, click the Auto Sync button. A pop-up dialog box
titled Synchronize Settings is then displayed.
For now, ignore all the options here, and just click the
blue Synchronize button. Next, you’ll see the selected thumbnails at the
bottom of the screen change as each receives the preset edit.
4.2 Sync Selective Edits
You might be wondering why this would ever be necessary when you
batch edit photos in Lightroom, but it’s actually a very powerful feature.
Let’s imagine you made several edits to your photo, and some of the edits
were specific to that particular photo. Perhaps you brightened a region of
the photo that was a little too dark. Unless all the photos are too dark in
exactly the same region, you’re going to end up with a brighter region in
all the other photos that looks strange.