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Driveshaft Angle

driveshaft angle calculation sheet

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
311 views10 pages

Driveshaft Angle

driveshaft angle calculation sheet

Uploaded by

fraz
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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© COPYRIGHT 2006 GREG FRICK - INLAND EMPIRE DRIVELINE SERVICE

POWER TRAIN SET UP The first consideration in drive shaft selection is


length. Length is fundamental because of harmonics.
This booklet concerns the placement of power Some will remember the television ad showing a
train components in the chassis. The engine/ singer shattering a glass with a single note.
transmission, the third member and the drive shaft
must be installed to work in harmony if driveability
is your goal. The booklet has four sections. The first
explains why harmony is necessary, the second
what needs to be done to achieve harmony, the third
gives examples of how to plan for smooth operation,
the fourth how to measure for drive shafts. Any
FIG. 1
section may be read alone but each will be more
clear if read in sequence. That note was a harmonic of the glass’ natural
frequency, the one you hear when you tap the glass.
WHY IS POWER TRAIN PLACEMENT CRITICAL? Energy from that note built up in the glass, exciting
the natural frequency ‘til the strength of the glass
Engines produce power. Transmissions and third was overwhelmed and it exploded. The same thing
members modify power. Drive shafts deliver power. happens to driveshafts.
While this is obvious, the devil is in the details of their
placement and relation to each other. Of the four
components, only the drive shaft is free to move as
it rotates. Drive shafts allow for distance changes
between the transmission and third member, correct
any misalignment between the two and rotate at
engine speed or higher. With the freedom comes FIG. 2
instability and sensitivity.
© COPYRIGHT 2006 GREG FRICK - INLAND EMPIRE DRIVELINE SERVICE 1
Drive shafts explode at an RPM called Critical Smooth engine power passing through a u-joint
Speed. In theory Critical Speed depends on shaft angle becomes pulsating power because of
length, weight, diameter and RPM. In the real world these speed changes. For smooth roadability the
Critical Speed is lowered by u-joint angles, shaft pulsations must be eliminated by an equal but
mounts and even the engine’s firing. Keeping safely opposite u-joint angle at the pinion end. Failure to
away from critical speeds affects decisions about cancel the pulsations results in vibration, premature
drive shaft tube diameter and the decision to move ring and pinion wear and broken axles. The two
to two-piece shaft sets to add support when bridging per revolution pulsations also excite the natural
long spans. frequency of the shaft resulting in a shudder at the
“half critical” RPM. Keep in mind that the drive shaft
U-joint angles affect critical speed. If you look at is always pulsating and that bigger working u-joint
a dinner plate it’ll look round. If you pick it up and angles result in greater shaft pulsations and more
tilt it, it’ll look elliptical. This ellipse is the way the shaft instability.
drive shaft “sees” the universal joint. For the joint
to rotate through the ellipse it must speed up and Another factor affecting critical speed and smooth
slow down twice per revolution. As the angle of operation is engine torsional vibration. The smooth
operation increases the abruptness of the speed power assumed above isn’t actually smooth. Every
change also increases. time a piston fires it accelerates the crankshaft. In
a V-8 this happens 4 times per revolution and in a
V-6 three times per revolution. These forces are fed
into a drive shaft that is already unstable because
of its pulsating travel. An overdrive transmission
amplifies and reduces the frequency of the torsionals
and feeds even more energy into the drive shaft
because of the additional torque required at the
FIG. 3 lowered operating RPM.
© COPYRIGHT 2006 GREG FRICK - INLAND EMPIRE DRIVELINE SERVICE 2
Lastly there is the ring and pinion ratio. The gear set generates a engine, transmission, driveshaft or rear end needs to be. It is
frequency that is absorbed by its housing but is also transmitted important to keep in mind that physics will ultimately win all
to the drive shaft and to the frame via the mounts. While not confrontations with style.
often noticeable, vibrations produced by rear end frequencies
can be very difficult to diagnose. Setting the chassis on stands as it is to run down the road
cannot be emphasized enough. All angles and all placements
All of the activity described above is going on all the time in your are relative to the ground (horizontal) and not to the chassis. If
car’s drive shaft. The behavior of the drive shaft due to these you want, or your chassis builder built in a 3-degree rake, the
factors is independent of the shaft’s quality. A poorly made or chassis must be set on the stands with the 3-degree rake or
poorly balanced shaft will contribute additional forces to the mix every weld you make and every hole you drill will be in the wrong
but all shafts are subject to the same physics. Consequently, place. If you want the car level but your chassis builder builds in
serious thought in the planning stage will pay off in reduced a 3-degree rake, you are already in deep, angular trouble. Talk,
frustration, fewer modifications, and smoother cruising later. ask, think, and talk some more before buying anything.

HOW TO PLAN YOUR LAYOUT Engines are set in the frames at 3 degrees downward angle to
the rear. This is virtually a world standard for engine placement
Before buying anything draw a sketch of your project. Draw your and is the basis for intake manifold construction. It is this fixed
project car as you want it to look running down the road with installation that determines the possible. To arrive at equal and
the tires and wheels to scale. Show this sketch to the chassis opposite u-joint angles the pinion must be set parallel to the
and body manufacturers you are considering. Ask each of them crankshaft.
whether they think your dream stance is both attainable and
drivable. Remember, they have done this many times and it is
best to listen to what they have to say. If you are building on an
OEM chassis do the drawing and read on. The trap here is that FIG. 4
part of the frame or the body will occupy a place where the
So far, so good.
© COPYRIGHT 2006 GREG FRICK - INLAND EMPIRE DRIVELINE SERVICE 3
At this point you may find the drive shaft to be level, going down
or going up toward the pinion. Figures 5, 6 and 7 show these Engine 3 Degrees-Down
Rear End 3 Degrees Up
Working Angle A=3+2= 5
Working Angle B=2+3= -5
variations. As you see, the objective is to add the angles up to Drive Shaft 2 Degrees Up Uncancelled Angle = 0
equal zero. In street rods it is only the situation in figure 7 that
causes problems. Because we are married to the 3-degree
down engine we have to ADD the uphill drive shaft angle to
FIG. 7
the 3 degrees to get our working angle.

A good way to visualize these variations is with a straw or


pencil. Hold the straw between your index fingers and hold
your index fingers parallel. By starting with the straw level and
raising or lowering one finger, it is easy to see the effect on the
angle between the straw and your finger.
FIG. 5

Universal joints are designed to have their maximum life


operating at 5 degrees or less. Experience leads us to believe
that street rodders can feel angles sharper than 3 degrees as
a general “busyness” in the car. As working angles increase,
more energy is fed into the drive shaft and still more “busyness”
is felt. Often other parts of the car, like the rear view mirror or
gearshift lever, will vibrate in resonance to this “busyness.” In
the worst cases big angle cars are not drivable at all on the
FIG. 6
highway.
© COPYRIGHT 2006 GREG FRICK - INLAND EMPIRE DRIVELINE SERVICE 4
Conversely, as working angles approach zero, and placing your angle finder vertically on the yoke
smoothness improves. Reduction of joint angles ear easily measures pinion angle.
reduces shaft pulsation and promotes stability.
U-joint life is not substantially affected because there
is almost always an angle produced by pinion offset.

Measuring the engine and pinion angles before


welding motor mounts or rear end mounts in place
is a straightforward process. For the engine, place
your angle finder on a machined surface such as
FIG. 9
the starter mount. If no machined surfaces are
available use the casing of the starter motor itself.
Pinion angle set up continues to be a controversial
subject. It is controversial because everyone’s
opinion is correct to some extent. For example, a
drag race car is set up differently than a circle track
car. Each of these is set up differently from a street
rod intended to run the highways.

Always remember what you plan to do with the car


FIG. 8 when it is finished. The goal of the street rodder
Stamped pans, carbuerator mounts and transmission should be smooth operation under all conditions
tail shafts can give false readings resulting in some and this is achieved by equal variation on both sides
uncanceled u-joint angle that can be the cause of a perfect pinion angle.
of vibration. Turning the pinion yoke to horizontal
© COPYRIGHT 2006 GREG FRICK - INLAND EMPIRE DRIVELINE SERVICE 5
HOW TO MEASURE FOR DRIVE SHAFTS-ONE PIECE
You are ready to measure for your drive shaft when your car has its engine, transmission and third member in place. The body need
not be on the chassis at this time. If you wish to verify that body weight will not affect the ideal measurement, distribute enough
friends around the frame rails and measure again. If there is a difference note it and send it along with your order.

© COPYRIGHT 2006 GREG FRICK - INLAND EMPIRE DRIVELINE SERVICE 6


To fill out figure 10, first measure for the pinion Our recommendation to you will be based on both
u-joint. If the pinion yoke has square tabs to center drive shaft capacity and safety.
the u-joint measure between them for “E”. Then
measure the cap seat for “D”. These measurements HOW TO MEASURE FOR DRIVE SHAFTS - TWO PIECE
must be accurate because cap diameter varies by
sixteenths of an inch. If there is no such tab, refer to Some cars will require a two-piece drive shaft
the “Some Chrysler” or “Some GM” as appropriate.
system because of overall length or because of
Check the box matching your results.
obstacles that must be avoided. Long wheel base
Next measure from the flat surface of the pinion cars, lowered cars, hydraulic and “X” frame cars
yoke, where the fasteners attach the u-joint, to the all fall into this category. While the 1958 to 1964
flat end of the transmission out put shaft. Note this Chevrolet cars are the most common example, long
as “X”. Note the amount of splined shaft protruding classics that had torque tubes, long bed pick up
past the transmission seal as “Y”. Finally note the trucks and cab-over car haulers are some others.
make and model of your transmission. With this
information a drive shaft can be built to fit your car Two-piece shaft systems are the means used to
properly. reduce Critical Speed where long spans exist. As
described above, the Critical Speed of any shaft is
If you call Inland Empire Drive Line with this a theoretical number reduced by both the physics
information be prepared for some additional
at work in the shaft and by the uncertainties of the
discussion. We will want to know how much horse
power your engine produces, whether it is a big installation. While guidelines are published showing
or small block and whether it has a blower and/ recommended maximum shaft lengths at various
or a nitrous oxide system. We will ask about the RPM, judgment is required when these lengths are
intended use of your car, its tires, weight, and approached. While each vehicle is different and no
the maximum engine RPM. All these questions hard and fast length rule applies to all cases, start
are intended to guide us in u-joint size and tube asking questions when your X measurement is 51
diameter selection. inches or more.
© COPYRIGHT 2006 GREG FRICK - INLAND EMPIRE DRIVELINE SERVICE 7
TWO PART DRIVESHAFT MEASUREMENTS
NMEASURE FOR U-JOINT AT THIRD MEMBER YOKE

QE = 3-7/32" D = 1-1/16"


QE = 3-7/32" D = 1-1/8" THESE DIMENSIONS SOME CHRYSLER CORP.
QE = 3-5/8" D = 1-1/16" MUST BE ACCURATE. QA = 2-1/8"
E QE = 3-5/8" D = 1-1/8" IF YOU DON'T GET A QA = 2-5/8"
QE = 3-5/8" D = 1-3/16"
QE = 4-3/16" D = 1-3/16" THEM, CHECK FOR SOME GENERAL MOTORS
QE = 4-3/16" D = 1-3/8" WEAR AT "E" OR "A". QA = 2-9/16"
QE = 4-31/32" D = 1-3/8"

N"W" MEASUREMENT IS FROM THE TIP OF THE TRANSMISSION OUTPUT SHAFT TO A CENTER BEARING BOLT HOLE OR SLOT.
D N"X" MEASUREMENT IS FROM THE BOLT HOLE OR SLOT TO THE CENTERLINE OF U-JOIN A THE THIRD MEMBER. THIS WILL
BE THE FLAT SURFACE WHERE THE U-BOLT HOLE IS DRILLED.
N"Y" MEASUREMENT IS THE LENGTH OF THE OUTPUT SHAFT PROTRUSION.

W X
Y *CENTER OF FRONT X = ________
BOLT HOLE IN FRAME
Y = ________ W = ________

TRANSMISSION MAKE & MODEL: DIFFERENTIAL MAKE & MODEL:


NOTE: TH400 TRANS OUTPUT SHAFT QDRILLED & TAPPED Q UNDRILLED
NTHE VEHICLE MUST BE MEASURED AS IT IS TO OPERATE. JACKING UP THE VEHICLE WILL CHANGE YOUR DIMENSIONS.
N DY NIF YOUR VEHICLE HAS A BOLT-ON TRANSMISSION YOKE, MEASURE BETWEEN U-JOINT CENTERLINES
HA PS! NIF THERE IS A FLANGE MOUNT ON EITHER OR BOTH ENDS, MEASURE TO ITS FACE.
TI NWHEN YOU INSTALL U-BOLTS DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THEM. "D" DIMENSION 1-1/16" AND 1-1/8" : 14-17 FT. LB.; 1-3/16" : 20-24 FT. LB.; 1-3/8" : 32-37 FT. LB.

Figure 11 shows the measurements needed. The pinion joint is measured as above. In the case of the two-piece shaft, “W”
is measured from the flat end of the transmission output shaft to the center of the slot for mounting the center support. “X” is
measured from this slot center to the pinion yoke u-joint attaching hardware face. * ‘55 to ‘64 Chevrolet Only.
© COPYRIGHT 2006 GREG FRICK - INLAND EMPIRE DRIVELINE SERVICE 8
Angle set up for two-piece shafts is similar to the one piece. All 3 working angles should add up to zero. The easiest way
to do this is mounting the front shaft section so it has zero degrees through the joint at the transmission. The rear shaft
may then be treated as if it were a single shaft. Sometimes this is not possible and all three angles must be juggled to
arrive at zero. It is a good idea to allow for some up and down adjustment at the center support mount so the angles may
be tuned as necessary once the car is driven.

There is no hard and fast law governing shaft lengths. It is customary though, to divide the overall length 40% front and
60% rear. Our experience with motorhome manufacturers has taught us not to make either shaft, especially the front shaft,
shorter than 18 inches. Available cross members, frame obstacles and u-joint angle cancellation will all play their part in
dividing up the span.

All of the questions about power and intended use apply to the two-piece set. Like the one piece they can be upgraded in
capacity. Unlike the one piece their tube diameter can actually be reduced because of the shorter shaft sections. This size
reduction can eliminate a lot of floor pan, tunnel and seat bottom modification and may make a two-piece more economical
to use where it isn’t really required.

When planning your conversion, take the time to consult with as many experts as you can. A few minutes or hours of
preparation can save you endless hours of rebuilding during the construction of your project as well as save you the
agonies of misjudgment. There are many resources available through the internet as well as the reliable vendors who
are working to sell you the products you need to do the job correctly, ask for their advice and use their knowledge.
— Greg

4035 E. Guasti Road #301 • Ontario, CA 91761


© COPYRIGHT 2006 GREG FRICK - INLAND EMPIRE DRIVELINE SERVICE

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