HHow to identify electrical faults

Introduction
It's annoying if an electrical socket or appliance doesn't work. But with a bit of logical detective
work, you should be able to find the cause of the problem - and, in many cases, correct the fault
yourself. Before you begin any kind of electrical work, though, you'll need to know how to isolate
a circuit and double-check that it's dead.
Safety first
For your safety, electrical products must be installed in accordance with local Building
Regulations. If in any doubt, or where required by the law, consult a competent person who is
registered with an electrical self-certification scheme. Further information is available online or
from your Local Authority.

Never take risks with electrical safety. Before you start any type of electrical work, you must
follow these following safety precautions:

Switch off the main power at the consumer unit/fuse box. Isolate the circuit you plan to work on
by removing the circuit fuse. Put this in your pocket to avoid accidental replacement
Or switch off the breaker and lock it if you can
Attach a note to the unit to advise you are working on the circuit
Check the circuit is dead with a socket tester or voltage tester/meter for lighting circuits

Common causes of problems

A plug-in appliance doesn't work

If a plug-in light doesn't work, try changing the bulb. For any other kind of appliance, first try
plugging it into another socket. If it works, the original socket could be faulty and need replacing.
If it doesn't, try again on a different power circuit (probably on another floor). If it works there,
you might have a dead circuit.
If the appliance doesn't work in a socket you know is functioning, check the flex connections in
the plug and replace the fuse - making sure it has the correct rating.
Still not working? The appliance may have an internal fault which needs some professional
attention.

A circuit is dead
Turn off all the lights or unplug all the appliances on the affected circuit. Turn off the main
isolating switch at the consumer unit, and repair the circuit fuse or reset the circuit breaker or
RCD. Then turn the main switch back on.
Switch on each light or plug in each appliance in turn to find out which item on the circuit is
causing the fuse to blow or the circuit breaker to trip. When you find it, isolate the circuit again
and check the fuse, the connections and the flex (see above).
If the fuse blows or the circuit breaker trips again, the fault may lie in the fixed wiring. Call a
qualified electrician.
A wall or ceiling light doesn't work
First, check if the other lights on the circuit are working. If not, follow the steps for a dead circuit
below.
If the other lights on the circuit are working, turn off the light at the switch and replace the bulb.
If that doesn't help, turn off the power and check the cable/flex connections at the light. If
necessary, strip back the cores and remake the connections - making sure the terminal screws are
tight. Still with the power off, check the condition of the flex with a continuity tester, and replace
it if necessary.
If that doesn't work, turn off the power again, remove the switch cover and check the cable
connections. If they're loose, remake them. If they're fine, try replacing the switch.
Still not working? Call in a qualified electrician.

All circuits are dead

If the circuits in your home are protected by an RCD (residual current device), check to see if it
has tripped. If so, reset it. If it trips again, carry out the checks for faulty lights, appliances and a
dead circuit. If the problem continues, call in a qualified electrician.
Check with neighbours or your electricity supplier to find out if the power to the neighbourhood
has been cut. If not - and you can't find a problem with your domestic circuits - get in touch with
your electricity supplier. They'll be able to check the main supply cable and service fuse.

Fuses and circuit breakers

Each of the electrical circuits in your home is provided with a fuse or a circuit breaker. They can
be either an MCB (miniature circuit breaker) or RCBO (residual current breaker with overload
protection).

These devices protect the circuit against overloading, which could generate heat within the wiring
that melts the insulation and causes a fire.

They also react to short circuits that are caused when the current-carrying cores of cables come
into contact with each other. This can happen if the cores become loose inside an electrical
accessory, or if the cable is pierced accidentally by a drill or nail.

Fuses contain a special wire that melts, separates and cuts off the flow of electricity if the circuit
draws too much current or a short circuit occurs.

The wire might be exposed within the carrier, or it can be contained within a special cartridge.
Circuit breakers are trip switches that turn themselves off under the same circumstances, and can
be reset by pushing a button or operating the switch.

The demand placed on circuits varies (light fittings consume less electricity than most plug-in
appliances, for example). So as well as having different sized cable, the circuits are protected by
fuses or circuit breakers with different ratings.
Lighting circuits are protected by 5 or 6 amp fuses, socket circuits by 30 or 32 amp fuses, an
immersion heater by a 15 or 16 amp fuse, and so on. It's very important that you use fuses of the
correct rating. One with too low a rating will keep blowing, while one with a rating that's too high
might not protect the circuit against overloading - with potentially fatal consequences.

Safety first - Nuisance RCD tripping

To prevent your RCD-protected systems from tripping, you should work with the whole power
supply switched off. Switching off a circuit breaker or removing a circuit fuse only isolates the L
(live) side of the circuit, while the N (neutral) stays connected to the mains. This is quite safe for
working on the circuit, but it means that any contact with the N wire will cause the RCD to trip
and switch off the entire house supply. This is not only irritating, but can also be dangerous when
you're in the middle of a repair.

How to change a cartridge fuse

Cartridge fuses are easy to replace - but make sure you use the correct fuse rating for the circuit, as
fuses vary in size and colour coding according to their rating.

How-to-identify-electrical-faults
Step 1
Switch off the power and remove the cartridge fuse. Some are simply held in spring clips and can
be prised out, while on others you'll need to open the fuse carrier by releasing a screw.

How-to-identify-electrical-faults
Step 2
Press a new fuse of the correct rating into the spring clips, or insert it into the open ends of the
carrier's pins. Then, if necessary, reassemble the fuse carrier. Check the main power switch is off
and replace the fuse - usually, the pins are offset to one side so it'll only fit one way round. After
that, you can restore the power.

How to fit & replace electric sockets

Introduction
Sockets can be surface or flush-mounted. It's easier to surface-mount electrical fittings, but the
flush-mounted versions look better and are less prone to accidental damage.

Before adding a socket to your electric circuit, you must ensure that it will be compliant with IEE
electrical regulations, and establish whether the circuit will require RCD protection.

Safety first
For your safety, these products must be installed in accordance with local Building Regulations. If
in any doubt, or where required by the law, consult a competent person who is registered with an
electrical certification scheme. Further information is available online or from your local authority.
Never take risks with electrical safety. Before you start any type of electrical work, you must
follow these following safety precautions:

Switch off the main power at the consumer unit/fuse box. Isolate the circuit you plan to work on
by removing the circuit fuse. Put this in your pocket to avoid accidental replacement.
Or switch off the breaker and lock it if you can.
Attach a note to the unit to advise you are working on the circuit.
Check the circuit is dead with a socket tester or voltage tester/meter for lighting circuits.
If the cable won't reach the terminals of the new socket without straining, don’t pull it. Use a
specially designed crimp or terminal block to attach a new short length of cable. Only do this if
there is room for it inside the mounting box - all wiring connections must be accessible and not
buried in the wall behind.

How to replace a damaged socket

If one of your sockets has been scorched, it's usually been caused by overloading or loose
connections in a plug. Don't plug your appliances back in without dealing with the problem first or
it will happen again.

Safety first
Never take risks with electrical safety. Modifications to any circuit must comply with the latest
IEE Wiring Regulations. New or replacement cables or sockets may need RCD protection.

How to replace a damaged socket Step 1

Step 1
Start by isolating the circuit. Use a socket tester to double-check that it's dead. Unscrew the socket
faceplate and pull it away from the wall, but keep the screws in case the new ones don't fit.

How to replace a damaged socket Step 2

Step 2
Loosen the terminal screws and free the cable cores. If the insulation has been heat damaged, cut
back the cores and strip the ends. Run green/yellow sleeving over the earth core if it's exposed. As
the metal back boxes must be earthed, run a short length of earth cable between the earth terminals
of the back box and the faceplate.

How to replace a damaged socket Step 3

Step 3
Connect the live core or cores to the live terminal (L) of the new faceplate, the neutral to the
neutral terminal (N) and the earth to the earth terminal (E or (Earth symbol)). Fully tighten the
terminal screws, and fit the new faceplate. If the new screws don't fit the lugs of the old box, just
re-use the original screws. Finally, use the socket tester to check you've wired everything
correctly.
How to replace a single flush socket with a double socket
If your socket is flush-mounted, it's very easy to replace it with a surface-mounted double socket.
You can either get a special socket conversion box to help you do this, or use a standard double
socket and drill and plug the wall (as shown here). If you want your socket to be flush-mounted,
you'll need to take out the old box and make a larger recess for a new one.

Safety first
If the cable won't reach the terminals of the new socket without straining, don't pull it. Use a
specially designed crimp or terminal block to attach a new short length of cable. But only do this
if there's room for it inside the mounting box - all wiring connections must be accessible, not
buried in the wall behind.

How to replace a single flush socket with a double socket Step 1

Step 1
First, you'll need to isolate the circuit. Use a socket tester to double-check that it's dead, then
unscrew the faceplate and disconnect the cables from the terminals of the single socket mounting
box. Run green/yellow sleeving over the earth core if you find it's exposed.

How to replace a single flush socket with a double socket Step 2

Step 2
Next, remove the knockout in the new surface mounting box and pass the cables through. Then
mark the fixing holes on the wall in pencil. Take the box away, check for hidden pipes or cables,
and drill and plug the wall behind.

How to replace a single flush socket with a double socket Step 3

Step 3
Screw the new box in place and connect the cables to the terminals. Fit the new faceplate, and use
the socket tester to check it's correctly wired.

How to flush mount a socket in a solid wall

If you're flush mounting a box in a solid wall, you'll need to cut a neat recess through the plaster
and into the masonry behind. This is dusty work, so it's a good idea to wear gloves and protective
goggles.

How to flush mount a socket in a solid wall Step 1

Step 1
Start by testing for hidden pipes and cables. If all is clear, hold the mounting box in position. Use
a spirit level to check it's horizontal and draw its outline on the wall. Then, take a hammer action
drill with a masonry drill bit and make a series of holes within the outline to a slightly greater
depth than that of the mounting box. You can use a socket template to make this job easier, as this
will guide the drilling of holes to hollow out this space. Set the drill's depth stop, or wrap masking
tape around the bit as a depth guide.

How to flush mount a socket in a solid wall Step 2

Step 2
Next, chop out the plaster and masonry with a bolster and club hammer, cutting down to the
bottom of the drilled holes. Brush out all the debris and check the fit of the box.

How to flush mount a socket in a solid wall Step 3

Step 3
Hold the socket box in place, mark the fixing positions, and drill and plug the holes. Cut a channel
for the cable before attaching the box. Then isolate the circuit and make the final connections.
Finish off by fitting the faceplate and using a socket tester to check the wiring is correct.

How to flush mount a socket in a stud wall

If you're flush mounting a socket in a stud wall, the easiest way to do this is with a cavity fixing
box. This has a flange that sits against the face of the wall, as well as spring-loaded or rotating
lugs that press against the back of the plasterboard. These give you more flexibility when you
position the fitting.

How to flush mount a socket in a stud wall Step 1

Step 1
Start by deciding where you want to put your new socket. If you have a stud finder, use this to
check that none of the wall's framework will be in the way. If you don't have a stud finder, tap the
wall gently with a hammer handle and listen for the hollow note to change when you tap over the
framework. Hold the box in place, using a spirit level to make sure it's horizontal, and then draw
around it in pencil.

How to flush mount a socket in a stud wall Step 2

Step 2
Check the area is free of hidden pipes or cables. Then push and twist a screwdriver through at
diagonally opposite corners of the outline so you can insert the blade of a pad saw or plasterboard
saw. Cut outwards from the holes, following the box outline, and remove the waste piece of
plasterboard.

How to flush mount a socket in a stud wall Step 3

Step 3
After checking that the box fits snugly in the hole, remove the knock-out from it. Then push the
box back into the hole, feeding the cable through the opening.

How to flush mount a socket in a stud wall Step 4

Step 4
Push in or turn the securing lugs so they grip the rear face of the plasterboard firmly. Then connect
the wires and fit the faceplate. Finally, check your socket is correctly wired using a socket tester.

Electrical & wiring tools buying guide

Introduction
Tackling an electrical or wiring job? You'll need the right tools to hand. We've a whole catalogue
of specialist tools - from resistance testers and side cutters to wire strippers.
Essential tools
electrical wiring tools buying guide
A brief guide to the kinds of tools you'll need for the most common electrical and wiring jobs.
Don't forget, choosing the right tools will help you to complete your job efficiently and safely.
Look for those with insulated handles and other safety features to help protect you from accidents.

Continuity, resistance and voltage tester

This three-in-one battery-powered tool can test whether a cable is part of a continuous circuit,
measure the resistance of a component or circuit and test for AC and DC voltages.

Shop test equipment

Hand lamp or torch

Whenever you have to work without light or power, you will need a good battery-powered torch
or lamp.

Shop torches

Long nose pliers

For bending, twisting and positioning cable cores. Available with insulated handles for extra
safety.

Shop long nose pliers

Side cutters or snips

The best tool for cutting cables to an exact length.

Shop cutters

Socket template
Useful for installing flush-mounted socket boxes. The hard plastic guide provides an easy-to-use
drilling template to hollow out a wall cavity.

Socket tester
A plug-in tester that confirms that a circuit is dead and therefore safe to work on. It also tells you
whether or not a socket is wired correctly.

Shop test equipment

Voltage tester
Test that a lighting circuit is dead with a voltage meter or tester.

Shop test equipment

Wire strippers
Great for removing the insulation from cables and flex cores. Its jaws accommodate most core
diameters.

Shop wire strippers

For more help and advice completing electrical tasks around the home, watch our videos below -
How to change a plug and fuse and How to change a light switc

Individual Assignment (30% marks) for finding and repair fault in measuring and analysis system
The submission for assignment is 15/04/2013E.

1.How to flush mount a socket in a stud wall(3-marks)

2.How to replace a single flush socket with a double socket (2-marks)
3.How to identify electrical faults(2-marks)
4.A wall or ceiling light doesn't work(3-marks)
5.List and explain general Principles of Fault Finding(3-marks)
6.list andexplain briefly the classification and types of Down Time and Repair Time(5- marks)
7.What are the Fault Condition Reporting(3 -marks)
8.Explain the reason for maintenance(3-marks)
9.Define the types of maintenance(3- marks)
10.What are the advantage and disadvantage of corrective maintenance(3- marks).