FOREWORD

This Arctic Cat Service Manual contains service and maintenance information for the Model Year 2007 Arctic
Cat 2-Stroke Snowmobiles. This manual is designed to aid service personnel in service-oriented applications.
This manual is divided into sections. The sections cover specific snowmobile components or systems and, in addi-
tion to the standard service procedures, includes assembling, disassembling, and inspecting instructions. When
using this manual as a guide, the technician should use discretion as to how much disassembly is needed to correct
any given condition.
The service technician should become familiar with the operation and construction of the components or systems
by carefully studying the complete manual. This will assist the service technician in becoming more aware of and
efficient with servicing procedures. Such efficiency not only helps build consumer confidence but also saves time
and labor.
All Arctic Cat publications and snowmobile decals display the words Warning, Caution, and Note to emphasize
important information. The symbol ! WARNING identifies personal safety-related information. Be sure to
follow the directive because it deals with the possibility of severe personal injury or even death. The symbol
! CAUTION identifies unsafe practices which may result in snowmobile-related damage. Follow the direc-
tive because it deals with the possibility of damaging part or parts of the snowmobile. The symbol „ NOTE: iden-
tifies supplementary information worthy of particular attention.
At the time of publication, all information, photographs, and illustrations were technically correct. Some photo-
graphs and illustrations used in this manual are used for clarity purposes only and are not designed to depict actual
conditions. Because Arctic Cat Inc. constantly refines and improves its products, no retroactive obligation is
incurred.
All materials and specifications are subject to change without notice.
Keep this manual accessible in the shop area for reference.
Product Service and Warranty Department
Arctic Cat Inc.

© 2007 Arctic Cat Inc. January 2007

®™ Trademarks of Arctic Cat Inc., Thief River Falls, MN
 TABLE OF
CONTENTS

Foreword
Click on the red text to go.

Section

1. General Information

2. Engine

3. Engine-Related Items

4. Fuel Systems

5. Engine Electrical Systems

6. Chassis Electrical Systems

7. Steering and Body

8. Drive Train and Brake Systems

9. Track/Rear Suspension
SECTION 1 — GENERAL INFORMATION

TABLE OF
CONTENTS

Snowmobile Identification ....................................... 1-2

Recommended Gasoline and Oil ........................... 1-2
Break-In Procedure ................................................ 1-2
Genuine Parts ........................................................ 1-2
High Altitude Operation .......................................... 1-3
Preparation For Storage ......................................... 1-3
Preparation After Storage ...................................... 1-4
After Break-In Checkup (100 Miles) ....................... 1-5
After Break-In Checkup Checklist .......................... 1-6
Check Engine Light
(Crossfire/F-Series/M-Series Models) ................. 1-6
Diagnostic Codes/Check Engine
(Crossfire/F-Series/M-Series Models) ................. 1-6
Chassis Control Unit
(Crossfire/F-Series/M-Series Models) ................. 1-7
Diagnostic Codes/Chassis Control Unit
(Crossfire/F-Series/M-Series Models) ................. 1-7
Torque Conversions ............................................... 1-8
Tightening Torque (General Bolts) ......................... 1-8
Fraction/Decimal Conversion Chart ....................... 1-9
Drill Bit Sizes (Number) Chart ................................ 1-9
MM/In. Conversion Chart ..................................... 1-10
Servicing Symbols ............................................... 1-11

1-1
 RECOMMENDED GASOLINE
Snowmobile (EFI Models)
Identification The recommended gasoline to use in these snowmo-
biles is 87 minimum octane regular unleaded. In many
areas, oxygenates (either ethanol or MTBE) are added
The Arctic Cat Snowmobile has two important identifi- to the gasoline. Oxygenated gasolines containing up to
cation numbers. The Vehicle Identification Number 10% ethanol or up to 15% MTBE are acceptable gaso-
(VIN) is stamped into the tunnel near the right-side lines. Do not use gasolines containing methanol.
footrest. The Engine Serial Number (ESN) is stamped
into the crankcase of the engine.
! CAUTION
Do not use white gas or gasoline containing metha-
nol. Only Arctic Cat approved gasoline additives
should be used.

RECOMMENDED OIL

The recommended oil to use in the oil-injection system

is Arctic Cat 50:1 Injection Oil (for standard models)
or Arctic Cat Synthetic APV 2-Cycle Oil (for APV
models). The oil is specially formulated to be used
either as an injection oil or as a pre-mix oil (for carbu-
reted model break-in) and meets all of the lubrication
requirements of the Arctic Cat snowmobile engine.
0726-383
These numbers are required to complete warranty
claims properly. No warranty will be allowed by Arctic Break-In Procedure
Cat Inc. if the engine serial number or VIN is removed
or mutilated in any way.
The Arctic Cat 2-stroke engine (when new or rebuilt)
requires a short break-in period before the engine is
Recommended subjected to heavy load conditions. Arctic Cat requires
Gasoline and Oil that the first tankful of fuel be premixed at a 100:1 ratio
in all oil-injection models.
During the break-in period, a maximum of 1/2 throttle
RECOMMENDED GASOLINE is recommended; however, brief full-throttle accelera-
(Carbureted Models) tions and variations in driving speeds contribute to
good engine break-in.
The recommended gasoline to use in these snowmo-
biles is 87 minimum octane regular unleaded. In many ! CAUTION
areas, oxygenates (either ethanol or MTBE) are added
to the gasoline. Oxygenated gasolines containing up to DO NOT exceed the one (1) tankful limitation of a
10% ethanol or up to 15% MTBE are acceptable gaso- 100:1 gas/oil break-in mixture. Continuous use of a
lines; however, whenever using oxygenated gasolines, gas/oil mixture, unless consistently operating in
the carburetor main jet must be one size larger than the extremely cold conditions (-26°C/-15°F or colder),
main jet required for regular unleaded gasoline. For could cause spark plug fouling and excessive car-
example, if a 400 main jet is recommended for regular bon buildup. A 100:1 gas/oil mixture must be used in
unleaded gasoline, a 410 main jet must be installed if conjunction with the oil-injection system to ensure
using an oxygenated gasoline. adequate engine lubrication in extremely cold condi-
tions.
When using ethanol blended gasoline, it is not neces-
sary to add a gasoline antifreeze since ethanol will pre-
vent the accumulation of moisture in the fuel system.
Genuine Parts
! CAUTION
Do not use white gas or gasolines containing metha- When replacement of parts is necessary, use only genu-
nol. Only Arctic Cat approved gasoline additives ine Arctic Cat parts. They are precision-made to ensure
should be used. high quality and correct fit.

1-2
 6. Using a large flat-blade screwdriver, remove the
High Altitude Operation baffle/resonator tabs from the air-intake silencer
slots and remove the baffle/resonator to access the
intake bores.
Operating a snowmobile at varying altitudes requires „NOTE: The baffle/resonator can be removed more
changes in performance components. These changes easily by removing the back tabs first.
affect drive train components (on all models) and car-
buretion components (on carbureted models).
7. Start the engine and allow to idle. With the engine
High altitude information decal(s) are located beneath idling, spray Arctic Cat Engine Storage Preserver
the hood of the snowmobile. (p/n 0436-888) into the intake(s) until the engine
exhaust starts to smoke heavily or until the engine
starts to drop in RPM. Turn engine off.
! CAUTION
On carbureted models, carefully follow the Main Jet „NOTE: On all models except the 370 cc/570 cc,
Chart recommendations for proper main jet selec- secure the air silencer boots onto the intake bores.
tion for altitude, temperature, and gasoline being
used. „NOTE: On the 370 cc/570 cc models, install the
baffle/resonator and the cover/tool tray assembly.
The M-Series snowmobiles are initially set up at the
factory for operation between 6000-9000 feet. Consult 8. Plug the exhaust system outlet with a clean cloth.
the appropriate specifications for this information.
9. With the ignition switch in the OFF position:
A. Disconnect the high tension lead(s) from the
Preparation For Storage spark plug(s); then remove the plug(s), connect
it/them to the lead(s), and ground it/them on the
Prior to storing the snowmobile, it must be properly
cylinder head(s). 1
serviced to prevent corrosion and component deteriora-
tion. An authorized Arctic Cat Snowmobile dealer ! CAUTION
should perform this service; however, the owner/opera- Never crank the engine over without grounding the
tor can perform this service if desired. To prepare the spark plug(s). Damage to coils and/or CDI unit may
snowmobile for storage, Arctic Cat recommends the result.
following procedure:
B. Pour 29.5 ml (1 fl oz) of SAE #30 petroleum-
1. Clean the seat cushion with a damp cloth and Arc- based oil into each spark plug hole and pull the
tic Cat Vinyl Protectant (p/n 0638-313). recoil starter handle slowly about 10 times.
2. Clean the snowmobile thoroughly by hosing dirt, C. Install the spark plug(s) and connect the high
oil, grass, and other foreign matter from the skid tension lead(s).
frame, tunnel, hood, and belly pan. Allow the
snowmobile to dry thoroughly. DO NOT get water 10. On carbureted models, drain the gas from each car-
into any part of the engine. buretor float chamber.
3. Place the rear of the snowmobile up on a shielded 11. Fill the gas tank to its rated capacity; then add Arc-
safety stand. tic Cat Fuel Stabilizer (p/n 0436-907) to the gas
tank following directions on the container for the
„NOTE: On all models except the 370 cc/570 cc, stabilizer/gasoline ratio. Tighten the gas tank cap
the air silencer boot can be pried forward to access securely.
the intake bores. Pry the boot forward; then pro-
ceed to step 7. 12. On models with a chain case, drain the lubricant by
removing the chain-case drain plug located on the
„NOTE: On the 370 cc/570 cc models, the air-intake backside of the chain-case assembly. Remove the
silencer includes a cover/tool tray assembly and a chain-case cover and inspect chain, sprockets,
baffle/resonator, and the silencer boot cannot be chain tensioner, and rollers for wear and the chain
removed to access the intake bores. Proceed to for proper tension. Install the drain plug, chain-
step 4. case cover, and seal; then pour Arctic Cat Trans-
mission Lube (p/n 4639-364) into the filler hole -
236 ml (8 fl oz) for standard transmission or 354
4. Open the air-intake silencer cover; then remove the
three screws securing the cover/tool tray assembly ml (12 fl oz) for reverse transmission.
to the silencer. 13. On models with a gear case, change the gear case
lubricant (see Section 8).
5. Close the cover; then tip the cover/tool tray assem-
bly forward and out of its slots and remove the 14. Clean and inspect the drive clutch and driven pul-
assembly. ley.
1-3
15. Remove the drive belt from the drive clutch/driven
pulley. Lay the belt on a flat surface or slide it into ! CAUTION
a cardboard sleeve to prevent warping or distortion
Avoid storing in direct sunlight and using a plastic
during storage; then clean and inspect the drive
clutch and driven pulley. cover as moisture may collect on the snowmobile
causing corrosion.
16. Apply light oil to the upper steering post bushing,
ski spindles and bolts, front and rear pivot bushings
of the skid frame, and plungers of the shock Preparation After
absorbers. Storage
17. Lubricate all grease fittings (front and rear suspen-
sion, spindles, speedometer drive adapter, and the Taking the snowmobile out of storage and correctly
driven shaft support bearing) with a low-tempera- preparing it for another season will assure many miles
ture grease. and hours of trouble-free snowmobiling. Arctic Cat
18. Tighten all nuts, bolts, and cap screws making sure recommends the following procedure:
all calibrated nuts, bolts, and cap screws are tight-
ened to specifications. Make sure all rivets holding ! CAUTION
the components together are tight. Replace all
loose rivets. On carbureted models if the gas in each carburetor
float chamber was not drained prior to storage, the
19. Clean and polish the hood, console, and chassis carburetor(s) must be cleaned before starting the
with Arctic Cat Hood and Windshield Cleaner/ engine.
Polish (p/n 0636-174). DO NOT USE SOLVENTS
OR SPRAY CLEANERS. THE PRO- PELLENT 1. Clean the snowmobile thoroughly. Polish the exte-
WILL DAMAGE THE FINISH. rior of the snowmobile.
20. On electric start models, disconnect the battery 2. Clean the engine. Remove the cloth from the
cables making sure to disconnect the negative exhaust system. Check exhaust system and air-
cable first; then clean the battery posts and cables. intake silencer/air filter for obstructions.

! CAUTION 3. Inspect all control wires and cables for signs of

wear or fraying. Replace if necessary. Use cable
Batteries require charging if left for extended non- ties or tape to route wires and cables away from hot
start periods. Arctic Cat recommends not servicing or rotating parts.
the battery until the snowmobile is to be used or
trickle charging once a month. Follow the manufa- 4. Inspect the drive belt for cracks and tears. Check
turer’s instructions and cautions. belt specifications. Replace if damaged or worn.
Install the drive belt.

! CAUTION „NOTE: If the old belt is worn but in reasonable

condition, retain it with the snowmobile as a spare
On models with remote start, make sure to leave the in case of emergency.
battery cables disconnected. Failure to disconnect
the battery cables when storing the snowmobile for 5. On carbureted models, inspect the in-line fuel filter
a prolonged period of time (six weeks or more) will and replace if necessary.
result in a discharged or damaged battery.
6. Inspect all fuel hoses and oil hoses for deterioration
21. If possible, store the snowmobile indoors. Raise or cracks; replace if necessary. Make sure all con-
the track off the floor by blocking up the back end nections are tight; then fill the oil-injection reser-
making sure the snowmobile is secure. Loosen the voir with the recommended injection oil.
track adjusting bolts to reduce track tension. Cover
the snowmobile with a machine cover or a heavy, „NOTE: After prolonged storage, Arctic Cat recom-
ventilated tarpaulin to protect it from dirt and dust. mends one tankful of 100:1 gas/oil mixture be used
in conjunction with the oil-injection system to
22. If the snowmobile must be stored outdoors, posi- ensure proper lubrication.
tion the snowmobile out of direct sunlight; then
block the entire snowmobile off the ground making 7. Inspect the entire brake system, all controls, head-
sure the snowmobile is secure. Loosen the track light, taillight, brakelight, ski wear bars, and head-
adjusting bolts to reduce track tension. Cover with light aim; adjust or replace as necessary.
a machine cover or a heavy, ventilated tarpaulin to
protect it from dirt, dust, and rain. 8. Inspect each spark plug. Replace, gap, or clean as
necessary.

1-4
 9. Adjust the track to the proper tension and align- DRIVE BELT DEFLECTION — Drive belt deflec-
ment. Lock the jam nuts. tion is very important to the snowmobile. Even if it is
checked and is correct when the snowmobile is set up,
10. Adjust the carburetor(s) and choke cable on carbu- it does change (more so during the break-in period).
reted models and throttle cable on all models. This is because the rubber engine mounts and the rub-
ber snubber on the torque link will all take a “set” dur-
! WARNING ing the first 100 miles, which allows the distance
between the drive clutch and driven pulley to shorten.
On carbureted models, be sure to tighten the swivel When this happens, the snowmobile will appear to
adapter jam nuts securely. If a jam nut isn’t tight- have a too long drive belt. To add to this, the drive belt
ened, the adjuster can rotate out of the carburetor itself wears and stretches somewhat. This all leads to a
cap causing the piston valve not to return to the full- low-end performance problem and, if not corrected,
closed position. causes premature drive belt wear.
11. Tighten all nuts, bolts, and cap screws making sure After the break-in period, drive belt deflection should
all calibrated nuts, bolts, and cap screws are tight- be checked according to the instructions given in this
ened to specifications. manual.
12. Lubricate all grease fittings (rear suspension, spin- DRIVE BELT BREAK-IN — It is critical for maxi-
dles, speedometer drive adapter, and the driven mum drive belt life to allow the belt to break in before
shaft support bearing) with a low-temperature subjecting it to hard use such as wide-open-throttle
grease. operation or hill climbing.
13. On liquid cooled models, check the coolant level The first 20 miles on the drive belt should be at 1/2
and all coolant hoses and connections for deteriora- throttle or lower. This will allow the belt to gain its
tion or cracks. Add properly mixed coolant as nec- optimum flexibility and will extend belt life. Do not
essary. exceed 50 MPH during the first 20 miles.
14. On fan cooled models, clean the engine cooling If this procedure isn’t followed, it is possible to destroy 1
fins and all vents. a new drive belt in less than 50 miles. This should be
explained to customers at the time of drive belt sales.
15. On electric start models, charge the battery; then
connect the battery cables making sure to connect To increase the life of a drive belt, it is very important
the positive cable first. Test the electric start system. that the belt be warmed up before subjecting it to any
type of use. In cold temperature (0° or below), the
engine should be allowed to idle for a period of 8 to 10
After Break-In Checkup minutes. This will allow heat from the engine compart-
(100 Miles) ment to soften the drive belt. Not only will this proce-
dure increase belt life but will also help prevent engine
damage from cold seizure.
The 100 mile checkup offered by some dealerships
Each operator should be instructed to drive the snow-
reduces problems and warranty costs. A program of mobile for several minutes at a low throttle setting to
this kind should be offered by all dealerships. Many
dealerships have added the price of the checkup into warm the belt up before using wide-open-throttle. This
practice should be followed on all models for maxi-
the selling price of the snowmobile, and others offer it mum belt life.
as a bonus to the customers who purchase snowmobiles
from their dealership. In addition to instructing each operator about these
drive belt break-in procedures, Arctic Cat also recom-
There are three areas that require adjustment after the mends that the operators be informed that a drive belt
break-in period in order to obtain peak performance.
These areas are the following. (like brake pads, wear strips, etc.) is considered a nor-
mal wear item and is listed as an exclusion on the Arc-
A. Carburetor jetting tic Cat Limited Warranty.

B. Drive belt deflection/Break-In TRACK TENSION AND ALIGNMENT — There is

a certain amount of stretch on all tracks during the first
C. Track tension and alignment 500 miles. The track must be adjusted after the first 50
to 100 miles to the specifications given in the Setup
CARBURETOR JETTING (Carbureted Mod- and Pre-delivery Manual and periodically thereafter. If
els)— Altitude, temperature, and the use of oxygenated these adjustments aren’t performed, the track may
gasoline affect the carburetion needed for optimum “derail” which leads to track and slide rail damage.
engine performance. The carburetor main jets must be
changed in conjunction with changes in operating alti-
tude, oxygenated gasoline usage, and temperature.

1-5
Along with these three major areas, there are also other
areas that should be checked and adjusted during the
“After Break-In Checkup.” A checklist to assist you
Diagnostic Codes/
with this service follows. Not only will the customer be Check Engine
happier, but it also gets the customer back into your (Crossfire/F-Series/
dealership, which in many cases will mean additional M-Series Models)
sales in accessories, belts, oil, etc.

These diagnostic codes are flashed by the check engine

After Break-In Checkup light incorporated within the speedometer/tachometer.
Refer to the following chart for diagnostic code
Checklist sequences.
„NOTE: On single-digit codes (2, 4, etc.), the num-
Below is a recommended list of items to check after the ber indicated will flash in an uninterrupted
break-in period. By performing this inspection, war- sequence. On double-digit codes (1-2, 1-6, etc.), the
ranty cost can be reduced and customer satisfaction can first number indicated will flash in an uninterrupted
be increased. sequence, there will be a short pause, and the sec-
The recommended mileage for this inspection is ond number indicated will flash in an uninterrupted
between 100 and 300 miles. Please encourage the cus- sequence.
tomers to have this important checkup done.
If the coolant temperature is at or above 80° C (176°
Jet carburetor(s) according to average temper- F), the coolant temperature light will flash a warning
ature, type of gasoline being used, and altitude (alert). If the coolant temperature is at or above 93° C
Adjust drive belt deflection
(200° F), the coolant temperature light will cease flash-
ing and will remain constantly illuminated.
Adjust track tension and alignment
Number of Flashes Trouble
Check throttle cable tension
1-2 Failure in ignition coil.
Check oil-injection pump adjustment (Check Engine Light)
Check engine idle 1-6 Incorrect adjustment/failure in
(Check Engine Light) APV cable.
Check coolant level 1-7 Failure in exhaust temperature
(Check Engine Light) sensor.
Check chain case/gear case lubricant level
1-8 Failure in servomotor.
Check lights (high/low beam, brakelight) (Check Engine Light)
Check safety switch operation 2 Failure in injector(s).
(Check Engine Light)
Check driveshaft area for any rubbing compo- 2-1 Failure in knock sensor.
nents (Check Engine Light)
Check steering hardware for tightness 2-3 Failure in knock control system.
(Check Engine Light)
Check skid frame and A-arm mounting hard- 4 Open or short circuit in baromet-
ware for tightness (Check Engine Light) ric pressure sensor.
Check brake lever travel and adjustment 5 Open or short circuit in intake air
(Check Engine Light) temperature sensor.
Grease all lubrication points
6 Open or short circuit in water
(Check Engine Light) temperature sensor.

Check Engine Light 7

(Check Engine Light)
Open or short circuit in throttle
position sensor.
(Crossfire/F-Series/ Steady Flash Coolant Temperature Above 80°
M-Series Models) (Coolant Temperature Light) C (176° F).
Constant On Coolant Temperature Above 93°
(Coolant Temperature Light) C (200° F).
The Check Engine Light is controlled by the ECU and
may illuminate for a number of reasons. The light
should illuminate each time the key is turned to RUN
or START, and it should go out when the engine starts.
If the light stays illuminated or it illuminates while the
engine is running, the ECU is receiving input that is
outside of its established parameters.

1-6
 Chassis Control Unit Number of Flashes Trouble

(Crossfire/F-Series/ 3-1
(CCU Icon)
Stator failure
(input open or shorted).
M-Series Models)
3-2 High power DC output deactivated
(CCU Icon) (headlight/handwarmer).
The Chassis Control Icon may illuminate for a number 3-3 High power DC output shorted
of reasons. The light should illuminate each time the (CCU Icon) (headlight/handwarmer).
key is turned to RUN or START, and it should go out 3-4 Low power DC output deactivated
when the engine starts. If the light stays illumintated or (CCU Icon) (gauge/taillight/APV valves).
it illuminates while the engine is running, the CCU is 3-5 Low power DC output shorted
receiving input that is outside of its established param- (CCU Icon) (gauge/taillight/APV valves).
eters. 3-6 System under voltage
(CCU Icon) (below 11 volts).
3-7 System over voltage.
Diagnostic Codes/ (CCU Icon) (above 15.5 volts).

Chassis Control Unit 3-8

(CCU Icon)
Gear shift actuator failure
(over current or over temperature).
(Crossfire/F-Series/ 4-2 Tachometer input failure (engine run-
M-Series Models) (CCU Icon) ning - no tachometer
signal present).
4-3 Gear position switch failure (did not
These diagnostic codes are flashed by the wrench icon (CCU Icon) change - no (or invalid)
light incorporated within the speedometer/tachometer. position input).
Refer to the following chart for diagnostic code 4-4 CCU over temperature
sequences. (CCU Icon) (above 105° C - 221° F).

„NOTE: On these double-digit codes (3-1, 3-2, etc.), 1

the first number indicated will flash in an uninter-
rupted sequence, there will be a short pause, and
the second number indicated will flash in an unin-
terrupted sequence.

1-7
 Torque Conversions

ft-lb kg-m ft-lb kg-m ft-lb kg-m ft-lb kg-m ft-lb kg-m
1 0.1 21 2.9 41 5.7 61 8.4 81 11.2
2 0.3 22 3.0 42 5.8 62 8.6 82 11.3
3 0.4 23 3.2 43 5.8 63 8.7 83 11.5
4 0.6 24 3.3 44 6.1 64 8.9 84 11.6
5 0.7 25 3.5 45 6.2 65 9.0 85 11.8
6 0.8 26 3.6 46 6.4 66 9.1 86 11.9
7 1.0 27 3.7 47 6.5 67 9.3 87 12.0
8 1.1 28 3.9 48 6.6 68 9.4 88 12.2
9 1.2 29 4.0 49 6.8 69 9.5 89 12.3
10 1.4 30 4.2 50 6.9 70 9.7 90 12.5
11 1.5 31 4.3 51 7.1 71 9.8 91 12.6
12 1.7 32 4.4 52 7.2 72 10.0 92 12.8
13 1.8 33 4.6 53 7.3 73 10.1 93 12.9
14 1.9 34 4.7 54 7.5 74 10.2 94 13.0
15 2.1 35 4.8 55 7.6 75 10.4 95 13.1
16 2.2 36 5.0 56 7.7 76 10.5 96 13.3
17 2.4 37 5.1 57 7.9 77 10.7 97 13.4
18 2.5 38 5.3 58 8.0 78 10.8 98 13.6
19 2.6 39 5.4 59 8.2 79 10.9 99 13.7
20 2.8 40 5.5 60 8.3 80 11.1 100 13.8

Tightening Torque
(General Bolts)

Thread Tightening Torque

Type of Bolt Diameter
A (mm) kg-m ft-lb
(Conventional or 5 0.2-0.4 1.5-3.0
4 Marked Bolt)
6 0.4-0.7 3.0-5.0
8 1.0-1.6 7.0-11.5
10 2.2-3.5 16.0-25.5
(7 Marked Bolt) 5 0.3-0.6 2.0-4.5
6 0.8-1.2 6.0-8.5
8 1.8-2.8 13.0-20.0
10 4.0-6.0 29.0-43.5

1-8
 Fraction/Decimal
Conversion Chart

8ths 16ths 32nds 64ths 64ths (cont)

1/8 = .125 1/16 = .0625 1/32 = .03125 1/64 = .015625 33/64 = .515625
1/4 = .250 3/16 = .1875 3/32 = .09375 3/64 = .046875 35/64 = .546875
3/8 = .375 5/16 = .3125 5/32 = .15625 5/64 = .078125 37/64 = .578125
1/2 = .500 7/16 = .4375 7/32 = .21875 7/64 = .109375 39/64 = .609375
5/8 = .625 9/16 = .5625 9/32 = .28125 9/64 = .140625 41/64 = .640625
3/4 = .750 11/16 = .6875 11/32 = .34375 11/64 = .171875 43/64 = .671875
7/8 = .875 13/16 = .8125 13/32 = .40625 13/64 = .203125 45/64 = .703125
— 15/16 = .9375 15/32 = .46875 15/64 = .234370 47/64 = .734375
— — 17/32 = .53125 17/64 = .265625 49/64 = .765625
— — 19/32 = .59375 19/64 = .296875 51/64 = .796875
— — 21/32 = .65625 21/64 = .328125 53/64 = .828125
— — 23/32 = .71875 23/64 = .359375 55/64 = .859375
— — 25/32 = .78125 25/64 = .390625 57/64 = .890625
— — 27/32 = .84375 27/64 = .421875 59/64 = .921875

1
— — 29/32 = .90625 29/64 = .453125 61/64 = .953125
— — 31/32 = .96875 31/64 = .484375 63/64 = .984375

Drill Bit Sizes

(Number) Chart

Size of Drill Size of Drill Size of Drill Size of Drill in

No. No. No. No.
in Inches in Inches in Inches Inches
1 .2280 21 .1590 41 .0960 61 .0390
2 .2210 22 .1570 42 .0935 62 .0380
3 .2130 23 .1540 43 .0890 63 .0370
4 .2090 24 .1520 44 .0860 64 .0360
5 .2055 25 .1495 45 .0820 65 .0350
6 .2040 26 .1470 46 .0810 66 .0330
7 .2010 27 .1440 47 .0785 67 .0320
8 .1990 28 .1405 48 .0760 68 .0310
9 .1960 29 .1360 49 .0730 69 .0292
10 .1935 30 .1285 50 .0700 70 .0280
11 .1910 31 .1200 51 .0670 71 .0260
12 .1890 32 .1160 52 .0635 72 .0250
13 .1850 33 .1130 53 .0595 73 .0240
14 .1820 34 .1110 54 .0550 74 .0225
15 .1800 35 .1100 55 .0520 75 .0210
16 .1770 36 .1065 56 .0465 76 .0200
17 .1730 37 .1040 57 .0430 77 .0180
18 .1695 38 .1015 58 .0420 78 .0160
19 .1660 39 .0995 59 .0410 79 .0145
20 .1610 40 .0980 60 .0400 80 .0135

1-9
 MM/IN. Conversion
Chart

mm in. mm in. mm in. mm in. mm in.

.01 .00039 .41 .01614 .81 .03189 21 .82677 61 2.40157
.02 .00079 .42 .01654 .82 .03228 22 .86614 62 2.44094
.03 .00118 .43 .01693 .83 .03268 23 .90551 63 2.48031
.04 .00157 .44 .01732 .84 .03307 24 .94488 64 2.51968
.05 .00197 .45 .01772 .85 .03346 25 .98425 65 2.55905
.06 .00236 .46 .01811 .86 .03386 26 1.02362 66 2.59842
.07 .00276 .47 .01850 .87 .03425 27 1.06299 67 2.63779
.08 .00315 .48 .01890 .88 .03465 28 1.10236 68 2.67716
.09 .00354 .49 .01929 .89 .03504 29 1.14173 69 2.71653
.10 .00394 .50 .01969 .90 .03543 30 1.18110 70 2.75590
.11 .00433 .51 .02008 .91 .03583 31 1.22047 71 2.79527
.12 .00472 .52 .02047 .92 .03622 32 1.25984 72 2.83464
.13 .00512 .53 .02087 .93 .03661 33 1.29921 73 2.87401
.14 .00551 .54 .02126 .94 .03701 34 1.33858 74 2.91338
.15 .00591 .55 .02165 .95 .03740 35 1.37795 75 2.95275
.16 .00630 .56 .02205 .96 .03780 36 1.41732 76 2.99212
.17 .00669 .57 .02244 .97 .03819 37 1.45669 77 3.03149
.18 .00709 .58 .02283 .98 .03858 38 1.49606 78 3.07086
.19 .00748 .59 .02323 .99 .03898 39 1.53543 79 3.11023
.20 .00787 .60 .02362 1.0 .03937 40 1.57480 80 3.14960
.21 .00827 .61 .02402 1 .03937 41 1.61417 81 3.18897
.22 .00866 .62 .02441 2 .07874 42 1.65354 82 3.22834
.23 .00906 .63 .02480 3 .11811 43 1.69291 83 3.26771
.24 .00945 .64 .02520 4 .15748 44 1.73228 84 3.30708
.25 .00984 .65 .02559 5 .19685 45 1.77165 85 3.34645
.26 .01024 .66 .02598 6 .23622 46 1.81102 86 3.38582
.27 .01063 .67 .02638 7 .27559 47 1.85039 87 3.42519
.28 .01102 .68 .02677 8 .31496 48 1.88976 88 3.46456
.29 .01142 .69 .02717 9 .35433 49 1.92913 89 3.50393
.30 .01181 .70 .02756 10 .39370 50 1.96850 90 3.54330
.31 .01220 .71 .02795 11 .43307 51 2.00787 91 3.58267
.32 .01260 .72 .02835 12 .47244 52 2.04724 92 3.62204
.33 .01299 .73 .02874 13 .51181 53 2.08661 93 3.66141
.34 .01339 .74 .02913 14 .55118 54 2.12598 94 3.70078
.35 .01378 .75 .02953 15 .59055 55 2.16535 95 3.74015
.36 .01417 .76 .02992 16 .62992 56 2.20472 96 3.77952
.37 .01457 .77 .03032 17 .66929 57 2.24409 97 3.81889
.38 .01496 .78 .03071 18 .70866 58 2.28346 98 3.85826
.39 .01535 .79 .03110 19 .74803 59 2.32283 99 3.89763
.40 .01575 .80 .03150 20 .78740 60 2.36220 100 3.93700

1-10
 Servicing Symbols

Listed in the table below are symbols indicating special instructions and other important information necessary for
proper servicing. Please note the definition for each symbol. These symbols are used throughout this manual.

SYMBOL DESCRIPTION
Torque control required

243 - apply blue Loctite #243 (p/n 1639-413)

270 - apply green Loctite #270 (p/n 1639-817)
271 - apply red Loctite #271 (p/n 1639-820)
609 - apply green Loctite #609 (p/n 1639-821)

Lubricate with Arctic Cat 50:1 Injection Oil (p/n 0636-286) - Non-APV Engines
Lubricate with Arctic Cat Synthetic APV 2-Cycle Oil (p/n 2639-512) - APV Engines

Lubricate with Arctic Cat Low-Temp Grease (p/n 0636-593)

1
3B - Three Bond Sealant (p/n 0636-070)
HT - High-Temp Sealant (p/n 0636-069)
AS - Anti-Seize Thread Compound (p/n 0678-146)

1-11
SECTION 2 — ENGINE

TABLE OF
CONTENTS

Arctic Cat Engine Specifications ............................. 2-2

Torque Conversions ................................................ 2-3
Piston Replacement Guide ..................................... 2-3
Assembly Schematics (Table of Contents) .............. 2-4
Cylinder Head Volume Specifications ................... 2-18
Engine Piston Travel Versus Crank Angle Chart ... 2-18
Crankshaft Runout/Repair Specifications ............. 2-19
Engine - Panther 370/Z 370 .................................. 2-20
Engine - Bearcat 570/Panther 570/Z 570.............. 2-35
Engine - Crossfire 500/600 - M-Series 600........... 2-57
Engine - Crossfire 800/1000 -
M-Series 800/1000............................................. 2-86
Engine - F-Series 500/600 .................................. 2-120
Engine - F-Series 800/1000 ................................ 2-148
Troubleshooting Engine (Carbureted Models)..... 2-178
Troubleshooting Engine (EFI Models) ................. 2-181

2-1
 Arctic Cat Engine
Specifications

ITEM 370 cc 500 cc 570 cc 600 cc 800 cc 1000 cc

Engine Model Number AA37A9 AX50L6 AA56A6 AJ60L4 AB80L1 AB10L1
Displacement — cc 367 499 565 599 794 999
— cu in. 22.41 30.4 34.5 36.54 48.45 60.96
No. of Cylinders 2 2 2 2 2 2
Bore — mm 60 71 73.8 73.8 85 90.3
— in. 2.362 2.795 2.910 2.906 3.346 3.556
Stroke — mm 65 63 66 70 70 78
— in. 2.559 2.480 2.598 2.755 2.755 3.071
Compression Ratio 6.30:1 6.38:1 6.41:1 6.46:1 6.39:1 6.41:1
Cooling System Fan Cooled Liquid Cooled Fan Cooled Liquid Cooled Liquid Cooled Liquid Cooled
Gasoline Octane (min) 87 87 87 87 87 87
Fuel Mixture Oil Injection Oil Injection Oil Injection Oil Injection Oil Injection Oil Injection
Ignition Timing degrees 18 12 20 15 15 12* 15**
Engine Warm — mm 2.012 0.867 2.522 1.509 1.509 1.062 1.655
@2000 RPM — in. 0.079 0.034 0.099 0.059 0.059 0.042 0.065
Spark Plug (NGK) BR9EYA BR9EYA BR9EYA BR9EYA BR9EYA BR9EYA
Spark Plug Gap — mm 0.7-0.8 0.7-0.8 0.7-0.8 0.7-0.8 0.7-0.8 0.7-0.8
— in. 0.028-0.031 0.028-0.031 0.028-0.031 0.028-0.031 0.028-0.031 0.028-0.031
Lighting Coil Output 12V/185W 12V/280W 12V/210W 12V/280W 12V/280W 12V/280W
Ignition Type CDI/NOI CDI/NOI CDI/NOI CD/NOI CDI/NOI CDI/NOI
Piston Skirt/Cylinder — mm 0.066-0.086 0.075-0.105 0.085-0.115 0.075-0.105 0.075-0.105 0.075-0.105
Clearance Range — in. 0.0026-0.0034 0.0029-0.0041 0.0035-0.0045 0.0029-0.0041 0.0029-0.0041 0.0029-0.0041
Piston Ring End Gap — mm 0.15-0.35 0.20-0.40 0.30-0.50 0.30-0.50 0.30-0.50 0.30-0.50
Range — in. 0.006-0.014 0.008-0.016 0.012-0.0196 0.012-0.0196 0.012-0.0196 0.012-0.0196
Cylinder Trueness — mm 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
Limit (max) — in. 0.004 0.004 0.004 0.004 0.004 0.004
Piston Pin Diameter — mm 17.995-18.000 21.995-22.000 17.995-18.000 21.995-22.000 21.995-22.000 23.995-24.000
Range — in. 0.7085-0.7087 0.8659-0.8661 0.7085-0.7087 0.8659-0.8661 0.8659-0.8661 0.9447-0.9449
Piston Pin Bore — mm 18.002-18.010 22.002-22.010 18.002-18.010 22.002-22.010 22.002-22.010 24.002-24.010
Diameter Range — in. 0.7087-0.7090 0.8662-0.8665 0.7087-0.7090 0.8662-0.8665 0.8662-0.8665 0.9450-0.9453
Connecting Rod — mm 23.003-23.011 27.003-27.011 23.003-23.011 27.003-27.011 27.003-27.011 29.003-29.011
Small End Bore — in. 0.9056-0.9059 1.0631-1.0634 0.9056-0.9059 1.0631-1.0634 1.0631-1.0634 1.1410-1.1420
Diameter Range
Connecting Rod — mm 0.003-0.020 0.003-0.020 0.003-0.020 0.003-0.020 0.003-0.020 0.003-0.020
Radial Play Range — in. 0.0001-0.0008 0.0001-0.0008 0.0001-0.0008 0.0001-0.0008 0.0001-0.0008 0.0001-0.0008
Crankshaft Runout — mm 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05
(t.i.r.) — in. 0.002 0.002 0.002 0.002 0.002 0.002
Crankshaft End Play — mm 0.05-0.10 0.05-0.10 0.05-0.10 0.05-0.10 0.05-0.10 0.05-0.10
Range — in. 0.002-0.004 0.002-0.004 0.002-0.004 0.002-0.004 0.002-0.004 0.002-0.004
Reed Stopper Height — mm N/A 8.0 6.0 11.0 11.0 13.0
— in. 0.315 0.236 0.433 0.433 0.512
* F-Series/Crossfire
** M-Series

2-2
 Torque Conversions

ft-lb kg-m ft-lb kg-m ft-lb kg-m ft-lb kg-m ft-lb kg-m
1 0.1 21 2.9 41 5.7 61 8.4 81 11.2
2 0.3 22 3.0 42 5.8 62 8.6 82 11.3
3 0.4 23 3.2 43 5.8 63 8.7 83 11.5
4 0.6 24 3.3 44 6.1 64 8.9 84 11.6
5 0.7 25 3.5 45 6.2 65 9.0 85 11.8
6 0.8 26 3.6 46 6.4 66 9.1 86 11.9
7 1.0 27 3.7 47 6.5 67 9.3 87 12.0
8 1.1 28 3.9 48 6.6 68 9.4 88 12.2
9 1.2 29 4.0 49 6.8 69 9.5 89 12.3
10 1.4 30 4.2 50 6.9 70 9.7 90 12.5
11
12
1.5
1.7
31
32
4.3
4.4
51
52
7.1
7.2
71
72
9.8
10.0
91
92
12.6
12.8
2
13 1.8 33 4.6 53 7.3 73 10.1 92 12.9
14 1.9 34 4.7 54 7.5 74 10.2 94 13.0
15 2.1 35 4.8 55 7.6 75 10.4 95 13.1
16 2.2 36 5.0 56 7.7 76 10.5 96 13.3
17 2.4 37 5.1 57 7.9 77 10.7 97 13.4
18 2.5 38 5.3 58 8.0 78 10.8 98 13.6
19 2.6 39 5.4 59 8.2 79 10.9 99 13.7
20 2.8 40 5.5 60 8.3 80 11.1 100 13.8

Piston Replacement
Guide

ENGINE SIZE YEAR PISTON RING PISTON & RING SET

370 cc 2007 * 3004-825 3005-913
500 cc 2007 * 3005-828 3006-746
570 cc 2007 * 3006-004 3006-528
600 cc 2007 * 3006-004 3006-645
800 cc 2007 * 3006-394 3007-528
1000 cc 2007 * 3007-257 3007-258
* Not a Service Part

2-3
 Assembly Schematics
Table of Contents

370 cc .................................................................... 2-6

570 cc ..................................................................... 2-8 Listed in the table below are symbols indicating spe-
500 cc ................................................................... 2-10 cial instructions and other important information nec-
600 cc .................................................................. 2-12 essary for proper servicing. Please note the definition
800 cc ................................................................... 2-14 for each symbol. These symbols are used throughout
1000 cc ................................................................. 2-16 this manual.

SYMBOL DESCRIPTION
Torque control required

243 - apply blue Loctite #243 (p/n 1639-413)

270 - apply green Loctite #270 (p/n 1639-817)
271 - apply red Loctite #271 (p/n 1639-820)
609 - apply green Loctite #609 (p/n 1639-821)

Lubricate with Arctic Cat 50:1 Injection Oil (p/n 0636-286) - Non-APV Engines
Lubricate with Arctic Cat Synthetic APV 2-Cycle Oil (p/n 2639-512) - APV Engines

Lubricate with Arctic Cat Low-Temp Grease (p/n 0636-593)

3B - Three Bond Sealant (p/n 0636-070)

HT - High-Temp Sealant (p/n 0636-069)
AS - Anti-Seize Thread Compound (p/n 0678-146)

2-4
 370 cc

370-ENG07

2-6
 2

370ENG07_2

2-7
 570 cc

570-ENG07

2-8
 2

570ENG07

2-9
 500 cc

500CC1A07

2-10
 2

500CC2A_07

2-11
 600 cc

600CC1B_07

2-12
 2

600CC2A_07

2-13
 800 cc

800_07_1

2-14
 2

800_07_2

2-15
 1000 cc

1000_07_1

2-16
 2

1000_07_2

2-17
 Cylinder Head Volume
Specifications

„NOTE: For cylinder head volume tests, see appropriate Measuring Critical Components sub-section.

ENGINE TYPE SQUISH - GAP

370 cc mm 2.27-2.95
in. .089-.116
500 cc mm 1.5
in. .059
570 cc mm 1.69
in. .066
600 cc mm 1.5
in. .059
800 cc mm 1.5
in. .059
1000 cc mm 1.49
in. .058

! CAUTION
These specifications are not intended to be used for
engine modification. Reducing the head volume to a
smaller specification could cause piston detonation
problems which is not a warranty situation.

Engine Piston Travel

Versus Crank Angle
Chart

„NOTE: When using any of the charts blow, first know the engine stroke and timing in degrees; then select
the proper chart and read across from the degree figure to find timing in either mm or inches.

500 cc 600/800 cc 370 cc 570 cc 1000 cc

63 mm stroke 70 mm stroke 65 mm stroke 66 mm stroke 78 mm stroke
Degree
mm BTDC in. BTDC mm BTDC in. BTDC mm BTDC in. BTDC mm BTDC in. BTDC mm BTDC in. BTDC
BTDC
12 0.867 0.034 0.969 0.038 0.901 0.035 0.917 0.036 1.062 0.042
15 1.351 0.053 1.509 0.059 1.403 0.055 1.429 0.056 1.655 0.065
18 1.937 0.076 2.164 0.085 2.012 0.079 2.049 0.081 2.374 0.093
20 2.384 0.094 2.663 0.105 2.476 0.097 2.522 0.099 2.869 0.113

2-18
 Crankshaft Runout/
Repair Specifications

For those who have crankshaft work sent out to

another shop, it is advisable to provide them with this
information.
To use the specifications, first refer to the drawing;
then find the letter which indicates the specification
and refer to the chart below the illustration. Be sure to
note the proper engine column. Specifications are
called out in both millimeters and inches. 728-144A

„NOTE: We have given the proper location for

checking crankshaft runout as the very edge of the
straight portion of the shaft where the oil seal
makes contact. From the illustration, note that Arc-
tic Cat has called out three check points: at either 2
end, out on the taper as shown, and also on the
center bearing race. The crankshaft is still sup-
ported on the outer bearings using V blocks. The
maximum runout shouldn’t exceed 0.05 mm (0.002
in.).

Bore X Runout D
Engine A B C G
Stroke and F Point
(± .002)
370 cc mm 60 X 65 100 ± 0.15 55 ± 0.15 100 22 D 35 F 22
(in.) (3.937 ± 0.006) (2.165 ± 0.006) (3.937) (0.866) (1.377) (0.866)
(± .002)
500 cc mm 71 X 63 114.7 ± 0.15 66.5 ± 0.15 106 ± 0.4 27 D5 F5
(in.) (4.515 ± 0.006) (2.618 ± 0.006) (4.465 ± 0.015) (1.062) (0.196) (0.197)
(± .002)
570 cc mm 73.8 X 66 119 ± 0.15 62.3 ± 0.15 109.7 24 D 30 F 15
(in.) (4.70 ± 0.006) (2.45 ± 0.006) (4.320) (0.945) (1.181) (0.590)
(± .002)
600 cc mm 73.8 X 70 119.7 ± 0.15 64 ± 0.15 118 ± 0.4 30 D5 F5
(in.) (4.712 ± 0.006) (2.519 ± 0.006) (4.645 ± 0.015) (1.181) (0.196) (0.196)
(± .002)
800 cc mm 85 X 70 120.7 ± 0.15 64 ± 0.15 118 ± 0.4 30 D5 F5
(in.) (4.751 ± 0.006) (2.519 ± 0.006) (4.645 ± 0.015) (1.181) (0.196) (0.196)
(± .002)
1000 cc mm 90.3 X 78 129.6 ± 0.15 71 ± 0.15 128 + 0-0.4 32 D5 F5
(in.) (5.10 ± 0.006) (2.79 ± 0.006) (5.04 + 0-0.015) (1.26) (1.196) (0.196)
„NOTE: Measure in from the shaft end the specified amount when checking runout at points D and F.
When checking runout in the center, place indicator on center of bearing as shown at Point E. Maximum
runout at any of the 3 measuring points is ±0.05 mm (0.002 in.).

2-19
 Engine -
Panther 370/Z 370

This engine servicing sub-section has been organized

to show a progression for the complete servicing of the
Arctic Cat 370 cc engine. For consistency purposes,
this sub-section shows a complete and thorough pro-
gression; however, for efficiency it may be preferable
to remove the engine as a complete assembly, to
remove and disassemble only those components which
need to be addressed, and to service only those compo- CM006
nents. Also, some components may vary from model
to model. The technician should use discretion and
sound judgment.
„NOTE: Critical torque specifications can be
found on pages 6-7 of this section.

„NOTE: Some illustrations and photographs used

in this section are used for clarity purposes only
and are not designed to depict actual conditions.

Table of Contents
CM007

Removing .............................................................. 2-20 5. Remove the clutch from the engine compartment.
Disassembling....................................................... 2-22
6. Remove the cap screw and washer securing the
Cleaning and Inspecting ....................................... 2-25 driven pulley; then slide the pulley off the driven
Measuring Critical Components............................ 2-28 shaft. Account for and note the position of any
Assembling............................................................ 2-30 alignment washers.
Installing ................................................................ 2-33
„NOTE: If the driven pulley will not slide off the
driven shaft, use the Driven Pulley Puller (p/n
Removing Engine 0744-023) for removal.

„NOTE: If equipped with electric start, disconnect

the battery.

1. Turn the gas tank shut-off valve to the CLOSED

position.
2. Open the belt guard.
3. Remove the drive belt; then remove the plug from
the belly pan.
„NOTE: Before installing the clutch puller, apply
oil to the threads of the puller and a small amount
of grease to the tip of the puller. SC013D
7. Loosen the torque bumper from the engine mount.
4. Remove the bolt and lock washer securing the
drive clutch to the crankshaft; then using the Drive 8. Remove the springs securing the expansion cham-
Clutch Puller (p/n 0644-207) and an impact ber to the exhaust manifold and resonator; then
wrench or a breaker bar and Drive Clutch Spanner remove expansion chamber.
Wrench (p/n 0644-136), tighten the puller. If the
drive clutch will not release, sharply strike the
head of the puller with a hammer. Repeat this pro-
cedure until the clutch releases.

2-20
 MS368 MS369A
9. Remove the cap screws and lock washers securing
the recoil starter; then remove the starter. Leave it
in the engine compartment.

MS370A
14. Disconnect the oil-injection cable from the oil-
injection pump. Account for the E-clip and
washer; then disconnect the oil supply hose from
AB082
the pump and plug the hose to prevent leakage.
10. Disconnect the four-prong main wiring harness
connector and the CDI unit wiring harness.
11. Disconnect the impulse hose from the crankcase.
12. Disconnect the spark plug caps.
13. Loosen the carburetor flange clamp. Remove the
carburetor from the intake flange and carburetor
boot. Place the carburetor to the side in an upright
position.
„NOTE: If equipped with electric start, remove the
lock nut and washer securing the ground cable to
the starter motor and loosen the two Allen-head
cap screws securing the flex-drive to the starter AB081

motor; then remove the cap screws securing the 15. Remove the cap screws securing the engine to the
starter motor to the chassis. Remove the starter chassis. Account for washers, cap screws, and lock
motor. nuts.

2-21
 7. Using Flywheel Spanner Wrench (p/n 0144-007)
to secure the crankshaft, remove the three cap
screws and lock washers securing the starter pul-
ley to the flywheel. Remove the starter pulley;
then carefully pry the fan belt drive pulley from its
seated position on the flywheel and remove.

370-ENG07A
16. Lift the engine out of the engine compartment.
17. Remove the cap screws, washers, and lock wash- MD2494
ers securing the engine mounting brackets to the
engine; then remove the brackets. 8. Temporarily install the starter pulley on the fly-
wheel with three cap screws. Using the flywheel
spanner wrench to secure the crankshaft, loosen
Disassembling Engine and remove the flywheel nut and washers.

1. Remove the four nuts and lock washers securing

the exhaust manifold; then remove the exhaust
manifold. Account for two gaskets.
2. Noting the location of the longer cap screws for
assembly purposes, remove the 14 cap screws,
lock washers, and washers securing the top and
exhaust-side cooling shrouds.
3. Lift the top cooling shroud off the engine and slide
the exhaust-side cooling shroud off the exhaust-
manifold studs. Account for two exhaust-manifold
shroud gaskets. MD2495

„NOTE: If an impact wrench is being used, use of

a flywheel spanner wrench will not be necessary.

9. Remove the cap screws securing the starter pulley

to the flywheel and remove the pulley.
10. Remove the flange nuts securing the fan case to
the crankcase; then remove the fan case.
„NOTE: For further servicing of the axial fan com-
ponents, see section 3.

AB014
4. Disconnect the two oil-injection hoses from their
fittings on the intake manifold.
5. Remove the nuts securing the intake manifold;
then remove the manifold with flange from the
engine. Account for two insulators. Discard the
gaskets.
6. Remove the intake-manifold cooling shroud from
the engine. Discard the two gaskets.
2-22
 „NOTE: The two stator plate Allen-head cap
screws had Loctite applied to the threads during
assembly. Before removing them, apply a sharp
blow to the head of each screw to break the Loctite
loose. If this isn’t done, the screws can be very dif-
ficult to remove.

AB015
11. Install a protective cap onto the end of the crank-
shaft.
„NOTE: A suitable protective cap can be made by
welding a 3 mm (1/8 in.) plate on one side of a
spare flywheel nut. 2
AB026
14. Remove the stator plate from the engine.
15. Remove the screws, lock washers, and washers
securing the oil-injection pump to the crankcase;
then remove the pump, retainer, shim, and gear.
Account for two gaskets.

AB022

! CAUTION
To prevent damage to the crankshaft, thread a pro-
tective cap onto the crankshaft. The puller must bot-
tom on the cap and not on the crankshaft. Also, do
not thread puller bolts more than 12.7 mm (1/2 in.)
AB018
into the flywheel. Damage to the coils may result.
16. Remove the spark plugs.
12. Using the Flywheel Puller (p/n 0744-040) or suit-
able equivalent, remove the flywheel from the 17. Remove the eight nuts, lock washers, and washers
crankshaft by tightening the puller bolt, striking securing the cylinder heads to the cylinders. Note
the head of the puller bolt with a hammer, and the position of the different-sized nuts. Remove
tightening again. Repeat procedure until the fly- the heads and account for two gaskets and four
wheel is free. Account for the key in the end of the dowel pins.
crankshaft.
„NOTE: To ensure the cleanliness of the flywheel
magnets, place the flywheel (with the magnets fac-
ing upward) on a clean bench.

13. Scribe a reference line on the stator plate and

crankcase to aid in assembly; then remove the two
Allen-head cap screws, lock washers, and washers
securing the stator plate.

B563

2-23
18. Using a rubber hammer, gently tap the cylinders „NOTE: Place rubber bands over the connecting
and remove from the crankcase by lifting them rods and around the cylinder studs. This will keep
straight up off their studs. Discard the two gaskets. the connecting rods from damaging the crank-
Account for two dowel pins. case.

! CAUTION
When removing a cylinder, make sure to support the
pistons so they will not be damaged.

19. Using a felt-tipped marker, mark an M on the

MAG-side head, cylinder, and piston and a P on
the PTO-side head, cylinder, and piston.
„NOTE: For proper assembly, keep all MAG-side
components and all PTO-side components sepa-
rated. Assemble them on their proper sides.

20. Remove the PTO-side piston-pin circlip from the

PTO-side piston; remove the MAG-side piston-pin B160
circlip from the MAG-side piston. 23. Remove the cap screws securing the crankcase
halves. Note the position of the different-sized cap
screws.

A829
21. Using the Piston-Pin Puller (p/n 0644-328),
remove the piston pins from both pistons. A831
24. Separate the crankcase halves by installing two
crankcase cap screws in diagonal corners leaving
the heads approximately 6 mm (1/4 in.) out. Using
a plastic hammer, tap on each cap screw head until
the halves separate. Remove the cap screws.

! CAUTION
DO NOT drive any tool between the crankcase
halves to separate the crankcase. Damage to the
sealing surfaces will result.

25. Remove the rubber bands holding the connecting

rods; then separate the crankcase halves. Account
A830 for the two dowel pins. Lift the crankshaft free
from the crankcase half and slide the two crank-
! CAUTION shaft seals off the crankshaft. Account for the C-
DO NOT use any type of punch to drive the piston ring and five bearing retaining pins.
pin free of the piston; damage may result. Use a pis-
ton-pin puller only.

22. Lift the pistons clear of the connecting rods and

remove the small end connecting-rod bearings;
then remove the piston rings. Keep each piston
with its rings, piston pin, and bearing together as a
set.

2-24
 3. Inspect the cylinders for pitting, scoring, scuffing,
Cleaning and Inspecting and corrosion. If marks are found, repair the sur-
face with an appropriate ball hone and honing oil
Engine (see chart).

BALL HONE
„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
Engine Size p/n
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary. 370 cc 0644-290

CYLINDER HEAD „NOTE: To produce the proper 60° crosshatch pat-

tern, use a low RPM drill (600 RPM) at the rate of 30
1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove strokes per minute. If honing oil is not available,
any carbon buildup from the combustion chambers use a lightweight, petroleum-based oil. Thoroughly
being careful not to nick, scrape, or damage the clean the cylinders after honing using detergent
combustion chambers or the sealing surfaces. soap and hot water and dry with compressed air;
then immediately apply oil to the cylinder bores. If
2. Inspect the spark-plug holes for any damaged a bore is severely damaged or gouged, the cylin-
threads. Repair damaged threads using a heli-coil
2
der will have to be replaced.
insert.
3. Place the cylinder heads on a Surface Plate (p/n 4. Place the head surface of each cylinder on the sur-
0644-016) covered with #400 grit wet-or-dry face plate covered with #400 grit wet-or-dry sand-
sandpaper. Using light pressure, move each cylin- paper. Using light pressure, move each cylinder in
der head in a figure eight motion. Inspect the seal- a figure eight motion. Inspect the surface for any
ing surface for any indication of high spots. A high indication of high spots. A high spot can be noted
spot can be noted by a bright metallic finish. Cor- by a bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots
rect any high spots before assembly by continuing before assembly by continuing to move the cylin-
to move the cylinder head in a figure eight motion der in a figure eight motion until a uniform bright
until a uniform bright metallic finish is attained. metallic finish is attained.

! CAUTION
Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in
conjunction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or dam-
age to the sealing surface may result.

PISTON ASSEMBLY

1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove

the carbon buildup from the dome of each piston.
2. Take an old piston ring and snap it into two pieces;
then grind the end of the old ring to a 45° angle
and to a sharp edge. Using the sharpened ring as a
MD2498
tool, clean carbon from the ring-grooves. Be sure
! CAUTION to position the ring with its tapered side up.
Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in
conjunction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or dam-
! CAUTION
age to the sealing surface may result. Improper cleaning of the ring-grooves by the use of
the wrong type of ring-groove cleaner will result in
CYLINDERS severe damage to the piston.

1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove 3. Inspect each piston for cracks in the piston pin and
skirt areas.
carbon buildup from the exhaust ports.
4. Inspect each piston for seizure marks or scuffing.
2. Wash the cylinders in parts-cleaning solvent.
Repair with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and
water or honing oil.

2-25
 AN135 A519

„NOTE: If scuffing or seizure marks are too deep ! CAUTION

to correct with the sandpaper, it will be necessary Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in
to replace the piston. conjunction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or dam-
age to the sealing surface may result.
5. Inspect the perimeter of each piston for signs of
excessive “blowby.” Excessive “blowby” indicates
worn piston rings or an out-of-round cylinder. INTAKE MANIFOLD INSULATORS

CRANKCASE 1. Inspect for cracks, scoring, pitting, imperfections,

or warping.
1. Wash the crankcase halves in parts-cleaning sol-
vent. 2. Inspect the sealing surfaces for trueness by placing
each on the surface plate covered with #400 grit
„NOTE: Before washing the crankcase halves, wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using light pressure, move
make sure the four bearing dowel pins have been both sides in a figure eight motion. Inspect the
removed and accounted for. sealing surface for any indication of high spots or
warping. Correct high spots by continuing to move
2. Inspect the crankcase halves for scoring, pitting, each side in a figure eight motion. Warped compo-
scuffing, or any imperfections in the casting. nents must be replaced.

3. Inspect all threaded areas for damaged or stripped ! CAUTION

threads.
Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in
4. Inspect the bearing areas for cracks or excessive conjunction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or dam-
bearing movement. If evidence of excessive bear- age to the sealing surfaces may result.
ing movement is noted, repair by peening the bear-
ing area in a pinking (sawtooth) pattern.
5. Inspect the bearing dowel pins for wear.
6. Inspect the sealing surfaces of the crankcase
halves for trueness by placing each crankcase half
on the surface plate covered with #400 grit wet-or-
dry sandpaper. Using light pressure, move each
half in a figure eight motion. Inspect the sealing
surfaces for any indication of high spots. A high
spot can be noted by a bright metallic finish. Cor-
rect any high spots by continuing to move the half
in a figure eight motion until a uniform bright
metallic finish is attained.
A932
„NOTE: Care must be taken not to remove an
excessive amount of aluminum, or the crankcase CRANKSHAFT
will have to be replaced. If excessive aluminum is
removed, too much pre-load will be exerted on the „NOTE: If any servicing of the connecting rods,
crankshaft bearings when assembled. center bearings, or oil-injection pump drive gear is
necessary, Arctic Cat recommends that the crank-
shaft be taken to a qualified machine shop for that
service.

2-26
1. Wash the crankshaft with bearings in parts-clean-
ing solvent.
2. Inspect the bearings for wear, scoring, scuffing,
damage, or discoloration. Rotate the bearings.
Bearings must rotate freely and must not bind or
feel rough. If any abnormal condition is noted,
replace the bearing.

AN068D
3. Install the crankshaft bearing remover between the
journal and PTO-end bearing; then remove the
bearing from the end of the crankshaft. Account
for any shim(s). Note the position of the dowel pin
hole.
2
FC039
3. Inspect the connecting-rod bearings by rotating
them. The bearings must rotate freely and must not
bind or feel rough. If a connecting-rod bearing
must be replaced, the connecting rod and crank pin
must also be replaced.

AC100
4. Inspect the crankshaft bearing area for wear. If any
wear is noted on either end, replace the crankshaft
end.
INSTALLING OUTER
CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS

FC040 1. Wrap a thick towel around the crankshaft; then

4. Inspect the oil-injection pump drive gear for any secure the crankshaft vertically in a vise.
signs of worn or chipped teeth. If either condition 2. Heat the bearing either by placing the entire bear-
exists, replace the gear. ing in a pan of oil on a hot plate or by squirting oil
„NOTE: Lubricate bearings thoroughly prior to into the bearing and using a propane torch to heat
assembly.
the inner race of the bearing until a slight smoke is
noted coming from the bearing.
REMOVING OUTER
CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS ! CAUTION
DO NOT overheat the bearing.
1. Place the crankshaft in a suitable support; then
install Crankshaft Bearing Remover (p/n 0144- 3. Place any shims removed during disassembly onto
302) between the journal and the MAG-end bear- the crankshaft; then slide the bearing onto the
ing. crankshaft making sure the dowel-pin hole in the
outer race is properly positioned and will align
2. Place the protective cap on the crankshaft end; with its hole and pin in the crankcase.
then remove the bearing from the end of the crank-
shaft. Account for any shim(s). Note the position
of the dowel pin hole.

2-27
 Measuring Critical
Components

„NOTE: Critical engine specifications charts can

be found at the beginning of this section.

CYLINDER HEAD VOLUME

(Squish-Gap Method)

To check the squish gap, a micrometer and a heavy

piece of solder will be needed. MD2496

1. Remove the spark plugs from the engine. 2. The trueness (out-of-roundness) is the difference
between the highest and lowest reading. Maxi-
2. Insert the solder piece down through the spark mum trueness (out-of-roundness) must not exceed
plug hole and push it up against the inner cylinder specifications.
bore towards the MAG-side of the engine.
3. Pull the recoil rope and crank the engine over sev-
eral times while the solder is being held firmly in
place.
4. Remove the solder from the cylinder. Using the
micrometer, measure the very end of the squeezed
solder piece. Record the reading.
„NOTE: If the solder hasn’t been squeezed by the
piston, a larger piece of solder must be used.
Repeat procedure.

5. Using the opposite end of the solder piece, insert it 0725-586

down through the spark plug hole towards the
PTO-side of the engine. Push on the solder until it PISTON SKIRT/CYLINDER
contacts the inner cylinder bore.
CLEARANCE
6. Pull the recoil rope and crank the engine over sev-
eral times. Remove the solder from the cylinder 1. Measure each cylinder front to back about 2.5 cm
and measure the squeezed end with a micrometer. (1 in.) from the bottom of each cylinder.
Record reading and refer to the chart.
2. Measure the corresponding piston skirt diameter at
„NOTE: Measure from PTO to MAG-side of the pis- a point 1 cm (0.394 in.) above the piston skirt at a
ton to accurately measure the squish gap. Never right angle to the piston-pin bore. Subtract this
measure across piston, exhaust to carburetor measurement from the measurement in step 1. The
side, as the piston will rock and the reading won’t difference (clearance) must be within specifica-
be accurate.
tions.

Readings may vary from side to side. Make sure the

smaller reading is within the specifications listed.
CYLINDER TRUENESS

1. Measure each cylinder in the three locations from

front to back and side to side for a total of six read-
ings.

AC091

2-28
PISTON-RING END GAP

1. Place each piston ring in the wear portion above

the exhaust port of its respective cylinder. Use the
piston to position each ring squarely in each cylin-
der.
2. Using a feeler gauge, measure each piston-ring
end gap. Acceptable ring end gap must be within
specifications.

AC092

CONNECTING-ROD SMALL END

BORE

1. Insert a snap gauge into each connecting-rod small

end bore; then remove the gauge and measure it 2
with a micrometer.

MD2497

PISTON PIN AND PISTON-PIN BORE

1. Measure the piston pin diameter at each end and in

the center. Acceptable piston pin measurement
must be within specifications. If any measurement
varies by more than 0.02 mm (0.001 in.), the pis-
ton pin and bearing must be replaced as a set.

AN061
2. The diameter measurement must be within specifi-
cations.
CRANKSHAFT RUNOUT

1. Using the V Blocks (p/n 0644-022), support the

crankshaft on the surface plate.
„NOTE: The V blocks should support the crank-
shaft on the outer bearings.
AN056
2. Mount a dial indicator and base on the surface
2. Insert a snap gauge into each piston-pin bore; then plate. Position the indicator contact point against
remove the gauge and measure it with a microme- the crankshaft location point F (PTO-end) from the
ter. The diameter measurement must be within crankshaft end. Zero the indicator and rotate the
specifications. Take two measurements to ensure crankshaft slowly. Note the amount of crankshaft
accuracy. runout (total indicator reading).
„NOTE: For runout location point specifications,
see Crankshaft Runout Specifications chart on
page 19 of this section.

3. Position the indicator contact point against the

crankshaft location point D (MAG-end) from the
crankshaft end. Zero the indicator and rotate the
crankshaft slowly. Note the amount of crankshaft
runout (total indicator reading).

2-29
 FC046 MS986A
4. Position the indicator contact point against the „NOTE: Make sure the crankshaft center seal is
crankshaft at location point E (center). Zero the properly positioned in the groove of the lower
indicator and rotate the crankshaft slowly. Note
the amount of crankshaft runout (total indicator crankcase half.
reading).
„NOTE: To check the bearing for proper position,
5. If runout exceeds specifications at any of the place the point of a sharp tool into the dimple
checkpoints, the crankshaft must be either found in the bearing race. Strike the tool with the
straightened or replaced. palm of the hand in either direction. If the bearing
moves, it isn't positioned correctly and must be
rotated until it drops onto the dowel pin.
Assembling Engine
! CAUTION
„NOTE: The use of new gaskets and seals is rec- If the bearings are not properly seated during
ommended when assembling the engine. assembly, the crankcase halves will not seal tightly
and engine damage will result.
„NOTE: When the use of a lubricant is indicated,
use Arctic Cat 50:1 Injection Oil. 4. Apply a thin coat of Three Bond Sealant (p/n
0636-070) to the crankcase sealing surfaces.
1. Install the C-ring and the five bearing retaining
pins into the lower crankcase half. 5. Assemble the crankcase halves making sure the
crankcase dowel pins are properly positioned and
2. Lubricate the inner lips of the crankshaft oil seals the end seal tab will not block the oil transfer port
with grease; then slide the seals onto the crank- in the upper crankcase half.
shaft making sure the spring side of each seal faces
the center of the crankshaft.

AB092A
6. Install the crankcase cap screws making sure the
AC087 cap screws are in the corresponding-sized holes.
3. Apply oil to the crankshaft bearings; then install Tighten in three steps the 8 mm cap screws to
the dowel pins, C-ring, and crankshaft into the specifications and the 6 mm cap screws to specifi-
lower crankcase half. Be sure the alignment hole cations using the pattern shown.
in each bearing is positioned over its respective
bearing retaining pin in the crankcase; then seat
the crankshaft.

2-30
 ! CAUTION
Incorrect installation of the piston rings will result in
engine damage.

8. Apply oil to the connecting-rod small-end bear-

ings; then install the small-end bearings into the
connecting rods.
„NOTE: Apply oil to the piston pin before installing.

9. Place each piston over the connecting rod so the

arrow on the piston dome points toward the
0726-412 exhaust port; then secure with a piston pin.
„NOTE: Secure the connecting rods with rubber „NOTE: The arrow is found either up inside the
bands on the cylinder studs. piston or on the dome top.

10. Install the new circlips so the open end is directed

either down or up. 2

B160
7. Install the piston rings on each piston so the letter
on the top (inclined surface) of each ring faces the
dome of the piston. B324D

! CAUTION
Make sure circlips are firmly seated and the open
end is directed either down or up before continuing
with assembly.

11. Install the cylinder base gaskets onto the crankcase

making sure each gasket aligns with crankcase
transfer passages.
12. Rotate each piston ring until the ring ends are
properly positioned on each side of the ring
keeper; then apply oil to the piston assemblies and
cylinder bores. Remove the rubber bands from the
726-306A
connecting rods.

AC088 726-306B

2-31
„NOTE: Apply a generous amount of oil to the sur-
faces of the pistons, rings, and cylinder bores.

„NOTE: Inspect the cylinder-base gasket to

ensure proper positioning.

13. For each piston, place a piston holder (or suitable

substitute) beneath the piston skirt and square the
piston in respect to the crankcase; then using a ring
compressor or the fingers, compress the rings and
slide the cylinder over the piston. Remove the pis-
ton holder and seat the cylinder firmly onto the
crankcase.
AB078

! CAUTION
Be sure the gear is properly aligned with the slot of
the oil-injection pump shaft. The injection pump will
be damaged if these two components are not aligned.

„NOTE: If removed, secure the ignition coil to the

fan case.

18. Align the reference marks made during disassem-

bly; then secure the stator plate with two Allen-
head cap screws (coated with red Loctite #271),
lock washers, and washers.
A828A
14. Place each cylinder head with dowel pins and gas- „NOTE: Before installing the flywheel, wipe the
ket into position and install the eight nuts. DO crankshaft and flywheel taper clean using a clean
NOT TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME. cloth.

15. Temporarily install the exhaust manifold and 19. Install the key in the crankshaft and slide the fly-
secure with four nuts and lock washers to square wheel onto the crankshaft making sure the key-
the cylinders. Tighten the manifold nuts to specifi- ways match.
cations.
20. Place the fan case into position and secure with
16. With the exhaust manifold in place, tighten the four nuts. Tighten the nuts to specifications.
cylinder head nuts (from step 14) in three steps to
specifications using the pattern shown.

A814
21. Apply a thin coat of High-Temp Sealant (p/n
0725-318 0636-069) to both sides of the intake gaskets; then
17. In order, install the gear, shim, gasket, retainer, in order, install a gasket (one on each port),
gasket, and oil-injection pump. Secure with two shroud, gasket (one on each port), insulator (one
screws, lock washers, and washers. Tighten to on each port), gasket (one on each port), and
specifications. intake manifold.
22. Secure with nuts (threads coated with red Loctite
#271). Tighten nuts in three steps to specifications.

2-32
23. Place the intake flange into position and secure 30. Place an exhaust manifold gasket on each exhaust
with nuts (threads coated with red Loctite #271), port making sure the metal side of the gasket faces
lock washers, and washers. Tighten to specifica- the cylinder. Slide the exhaust-side cooling shroud
tions. onto the exhaust port studs; then place the upper
cooling shroud into position and secure the
24. Remove the exhaust manifold. shrouds with 14 cap screws noting the location of
the longer cap screws from disassembling. Tighten
25. Install spark plugs and tighten to specifications. to specifications. Connect the spark-plug caps.
26. Attach the oil-injection hoses to their fittings. 31. Apply a thin coat of High-Temp Sealant (p/n
Secure with clamps; then test the engine for air 0636-069) to the exhaust-manifold gasket; then
leaks (see Section 3). place a gasket on each exhaust port making sure
27. Temporarily secure the starter pulley on the fly- the metal side of each gasket faces away from the
wheel with three cap screws. Install the flywheel cylinder. Install the exhaust manifold, lock wash-
washer, lock washer, and nut. Apply red Loctite ers, and nuts and tighten to specifications.
#271 to the crankshaft threads before installing the
flywheel nut. Using a spanner wrench to secure
the crankshaft, tighten the flywheel nut to specifi- Installing Engine
2
cations.
1. Place each engine mounting bracket onto the
engine. Secure with cap screws (coated with blue
Loctite #243), washers, and lock washers. Tighten
to specifications.
2. Place the engine assembly into position in the
engine compartment. Secure the engine to the
front end with the cap screws, washers, and lock
nuts. Tighten to specifications.

MD2499
28. Remove the starter pulley. Position the fan belt
drive pulley into the belt. Align the starter pulley
holes with those in the belt pulley. Start one of the
cap screws into the flywheel; then rotate the belt
pulley and starter pulley in a counterclockwise
direction.
29. When the pulley pivots on the cap screw, rock the
pulleys backward or forward until the remaining
cap screw holes align. Install the remaining two
cap screws and tighten evenly to specifications.
„NOTE: Apply red Loctite #271 to the threads of 370-ENG07A
the cap screws before installing. 3. Connect the oil-supply hose to the oil-injection
pump; then bleed the system (see Section 4).
„NOTE: If equipped with electric start, place the
starter motor bracket on the crankcase and install
the front two and lower rear cap screws, lock wash-
ers, and washers. Place the starter motor into posi-
tion and secure with two washers and lock nuts.

4. Connect the oil-injection cable to the oil-injection

pump control arm and secure the cable mounting
pin with a nylon washer and E-clip.
5. Place the carburetor(s) into position making sure
the boot(s) are properly positioned and secure with
MD2500 the flange clamp(s).

2-33
 AH283D AB105D
9. Place the engine mount shims into position
! CAUTION between the torque bumper and engine mounting
When installing the carburetors, make sure the bracket; then tighten the torque bumper jam nut.
gasline hoses are properly routed to avoid prema-
ture wear and/or contact with exhaust components. 10. Place the drive clutch into position on the crank-
shaft; then install the lock washer and bolt.
„NOTE: At this point, check oil-injection system Tighten the clutch bolt to specifications.
synchronization (see Section 4).

6. Connect the impulse hose to the crankcase, the

main wiring harness, the CDI unit wiring harness,
and the spark plug caps.
7. Place the recoil starter into position and secure
with four cap screws and lock washers. Tighten to
specifications.
„NOTE: If equipped with electric start, secure the
battery ground cable with the rear cap screw.

CM016

! CAUTION
When installing the drive clutch, do not tighten the
clutch bolt with any kind of impact tool. Tighten bolt
using a hand torque wrench only. Failure to do so
could result in stationary sheave damage.

„NOTE: Apply a coat of Anti-Seize Thread Com-

pound (p/n 0678-146) to the keyway end of the
driven shaft.

AB073 11. Install the driven pulley and alignment washers.

8. Place the expansion chamber and grafoil gasket Secure with a cap screw (threads coated with blue
into position and secure with springs. Loctite #243) and washer tightened to 3.3 kg-m
(24 ft-lb).

2-34
 „NOTE: Some illustrations and photographs used
in this section are used for clarity purposes only
and are not designed to depict actual conditions.

Table of Contents

Removing .............................................................. 2-35

Disassembling ....................................................... 2-37
Cleaning and Inspecting........................................ 2-43
Measuring Critical Components ............................ 2-47
SC013D
Assembling............................................................ 2-49
Installing ................................................................ 2-56
„NOTE: At this point, check drive clutch/driven
pulley alignment (see Section 8).
Removing Engine
12. Install the drive belt and secure the belt guard.
Install the plug in the belly pan.
„NOTE: If equipped with electric start, disconnect 2
„NOTE: If equipped with electric start, connect the the battery.
battery.
1. Turn the gas tank shut-off valve to the CLOSED
13. Turn the gas tank shut-off valve to the OPEN posi- position.
tion.
2. Open the belt guard.
14. Check the ignition timing.
3. Remove the drive belt; then remove the plug from
15. Place the rear of the snowmobile up on a shielded the belly pan.
safety stand. Start engine and allow to warm up.
Adjust engine idle to 1500 RPM and check all „NOTE: Before installing the clutch puller, apply
safety switches for proper operation. oil to the threads of the puller and a small amount
of grease to the tip of the puller.
16. Test drive the snowmobile; then tighten the clutch
bolt to specifications. 4. Remove the bolt and lock washer securing the
drive clutch to the crankshaft; then using the Drive
! CAUTION Clutch Puller (p/n 0644-207) and an impact
wrench or a breaker bar and Drive Clutch Spanner
If the engine had a major overhaul or if any major Wrench (p/n 0644-136), tighten the puller. If the
part was replaced, proper engine break-in proce- drive clutch will not release, sharply strike the
dures must be followed. head of the puller with a hammer. Repeat this pro-
cedure until the clutch releases.

Engine -
Bearcat 570/
Panther 570/Z 570

This engine servicing sub-section has been organized

to show a progression for the complete servicing of the
Arctic Cat 570 cc engine. For consistency purposes,
this sub-section shows a complete and thorough pro-
gression; however, for efficiency it may be preferable
to remove the engine as a complete assembly, to
remove and disassemble only those components which
need to be addressed, and to service only those compo- CM006
nents. Also, some components may vary from model
to model. The technician should use discretion and
sound judgment.
„NOTE: Critical torque specifications can be
found on pages 8-9 of this section.

2-35
 CM007 MS368
5. Remove the clutch from the engine compartment. 9. Remove the cap screws and lock washers securing
the recoil starter assembly; then remove the starter.
6. Remove the cap screw and washer securing the Leave it in the engine compartment.
driven pulley; then slide the pulley off the driven
shaft. Account for and note the position of any
alignment washers.
„NOTE: If the driven pulley will not slide off the
driven shaft, use the Driven Pulley Puller (p/n
0744-023) for removal.

AB082
10. Disconnect the four-prong main wiring harness
connector and the CDI unit wiring harness.
11. Disconnect the impulse hose from the crankcase.
12. Disconnect the spark plug caps.
SC013D
13. Loosen the carburetor flange clamps. Remove the
7. Loosen the torque bumper from the engine mount. carburetors from the intake flanges and carburetor
boots. Place the carburetors to the side in an
upright position.
„NOTE: If equipped with electric start, remove the
lock nut and washer securing the ground cable to
the starter motor and loosen the two Allen-head cap
screws securing the flex-drive to the starter motor;
then remove the cap screws securing the starter
motor to the chassis. Remove the starter motor.

MS367A
8. Remove the springs securing the expansion cham-
ber to the exhaust manifold and resonator; then
remove expansion chamber.

2-36
 MS369A

570-ENG07A
16. Lift the engine out of the engine compartment.
17. Remove the cap screws, washers, and lock wash-
ers securing the engine mounting brackets to the
engine; then remove the brackets.
2
Disassembling Engine

1. Remove the exhaust manifold. Account for the

gaskets.
MS370A
14. Disconnect the oil-injection cable from the oil- 2. Remove the nuts, lock washers, and washers
injection pump. Account for the E-clip and securing the intake flange assembly. Account for
washer; then disconnect the oil supply hose from the gaskets, insulators, and the heat deflector.
the pump and plug the hose to prevent leakage.
3. Remove eight cap screws securing the main fan
shroud; then remove the shroud with the recoil
starter assembly.

AB081
15. Remove the cap screws securing the engine to the
chassis. Account for washers, cap screws, and lock MD0279
nuts.
„NOTE: Cap screws securing the front and rear
shrouds use special washers.

4. Remove the five cap screws securing the front

(exhaust-side) shroud to the cylinder head.
Account for the special washers.

2-37
 MD0276 MD0282

„NOTE: Keep the special mounting hardware with 7. Using Spanner Wrench (p/n 0144-007) to hold the
the shrouds for assembling purposes.
starter pulley, remove the three cap screws secur-
ing the starter pulley and fan to the flywheel.

MD0065 MD0275
5. Remove the spark plug grommets.
! CAUTION
To prevent damage to the crankshaft, install a pro-
tective insert into the end of the crankshaft. The
puller must bottom on the insert and not on the
crankshaft. Also, do not thread puller bolts more
than five threads into the flywheel. Damage to the
stator coils may result.

8. Using Flywheel Puller (p/n 0744-040) or suitable

substitute, remove the flywheel.
„NOTE: To ensure the cleanliness of the flywheel
magnets, place the flywheel (with the magnets fac-
ing upward) on a clean bench.
MD0060
6. Using Spanner Wrench (p/n 0144-007) to hold the 9. Remove the six cap screws securing the rear
starter pulley, remove the cap screw securing the (intake-side) shroud; then remove the shroud.
flywheel to the crankshaft. Account for the special washers.

2-38
 11. Remove the three Allen-head cap screws securing
the stator and remove it along with the stator wir-
ing.

MD0277

MD0072

MD0067
10. Remove the rubber insulator grommet from the
crankcase; then remove two Phillips-head cap
screws securing the ignition timing sensor and pull
the wires through the hole in the crankcase. MD0076
12. Remove the four Allen-head cap screws securing
the stator plate. Remove the stator plate.

MD0075

MD0255

MD0074

MD0078

2-39
13. Remove the four cap screws securing the seal
retainer plate on the PTO-side; then remove the
plate.

MD0087

MD0081
14. Remove the spark plugs.

MD0086
17. Remove the cylinders making sure to support the
pistons so they are not damaged. Account for four
dowel pins.

MD0083 ! CAUTION
15. Remove the eight cap screws, two nuts, and two When removing a cylinder, make sure to support the
washers securing the cylinder head to the cylin- piston so it will not be damaged.
ders; then remove the cylinder head. Discard the
cylinder head gasket.

MD0230

MD0289
16. Remove the four 6 mm nuts and eight 10 mm nuts
securing the cylinders to the crankcase.
„NOTE: Using a felt-tip marker, mark the cylinders
as to MAG-side and PTO-side for assembling.
Also, mark the pistons at this time.

2-40
 MD0096 MD0208
18. Using an awl, remove the outside piston-pin cir- „NOTE: If the existing rings will not be replaced
clip and remove the piston pin using Piston Pin with new rings, note the location and top side of
Puller (p/n 0644-328) taking care not to drop the
piston-pin bearing washers into the crankcase. each ring for proper installation. When replacing

2
with new rings, replace as a complete set only.
When replacing rings note notches in ring ends
which correspond with locating pins in ring
grooves on intake side of the piston. This prevents
the rings from turning on the piston when assem-
bled.

MD0094

„NOTE: The open sides of the piston pin bearing

washers face inward.

MD0272

MD0251

MD0271
19. Remove the two Allen-head cap screws securing
the oil-injection pump; then remove the pump.
Account for an O-ring.

2-41
 22. Place the crankcase (with its bottom side up) on
two blocks of wood. Remove the 12 cap screws
securing the crankcase halves. Note the position of
the different-sized cap screws.
23. Separate the crankcase halves by installing two of
the cap screws in opposite corners leaving the heads
approximately 6 mm (1/4 in.) out. Using a plastic
mallet, tap on each cap screw until the crankcase
halves separate. Account for four dowel pins.

MD0090

MD0283

MD0092A
20. Remove the oil-injection pump driveshaft retainer.
Account for an O-ring.

MD0204
24. Remove the two cap screws; then remove the
crankshaft assembly from the upper crankcase half
making sure to hold both ends of the crankshaft to
keep the bearings and seals from falling off.
Account for bearings and a C-ring.
MD0100A
21. Remove the oil-injection pump driveshaft. ! CAUTION
Account for a thrust washer. To prevent damage to the crankshaft, crankshaft
bearings, or seals, be sure to always lift the crank-
shaft from both ends.

MD0101

2-42
 4. Place the cylinder head on a Surface Plate (p/n
0644-016) covered with #400 grit wet-or-dry
sandpaper. Using light pressure, move each cylin-
der head in a figure eight motion. Inspect the seal-
ing surface for any indication of high spots. A high
spot can be noted by a bright metallic finish. Cor-
rect any high spots before assembly by continuing
to move the cylinder head in a figure eight motion
until a uniform bright metallic finish is attained.

MD0246

Cleaning and Inspecting

Engine
2
„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary. MD2492

CYLINDER HEAD ! CAUTION

Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in
1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove conjunction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or dam-
any carbon buildup from the combustion chambers age to the sealing surface may result.
being careful not to nick, scrape, or damage the
combustion chambers or the sealing surfaces.
CYLINDERS
2. Inspect the spark-plug holes for any damaged
threads. Repair damaged threads using a heli-coil 1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove
insert. carbon buildup from the exhaust ports.
3. Inspect the cylinder head for flatness using a 2. Wash the cylinders in parts-cleaning solvent.
straightedge and a feeler gauge. Acceptable
warpage must not exceed 0.05 mm (0.002 in.). 3. Inspect the cylinders for pitting, scoring, scuffing,
and corrosion. If marks are found, repair the sur-
„NOTE: If the warpage exceeds specification, face with an appropriate ball hone and honing oil
resurface the cylinder head using procedures (see chart).
identified in step 4.
BALL HONE
Engine Size p/n
570 cc 0644-292

„NOTE: To produce the proper 60° crosshatch pat-

tern, use a low RPM drill (600 RPM) at the rate of 30
strokes per minute. If honing oil is not available,
use a lightweight, petroleum-based oil. Thoroughly
clean the cylinders after honing using detergent
soap and hot water and dry with compressed air;
then immediately apply oil to the cylinder bores. If
a bore is severely damaged or gouged, the cylin-
der will have to be replaced.
MD2491

2-43
 4. Place the head surface of each cylinder on the sur- CRANKCASE
face plate covered with #400 grit wet-or-dry sand-
paper. Using light pressure, move each cylinder in 1. Wash the crankcase halves in parts-cleaning sol-
a figure eight motion. Inspect the surface for any vent.
indication of high spots. A high spot can be noted
by a bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots „NOTE: Before washing the crankcase halves,
before assembly by continuing to move the cylin- make sure the four bearing dowel pins have been
der in a figure eight motion until a uniform bright removed and accounted for.
metallic finish is attained.
2. Inspect the crankcase halves for scoring, pitting,
! CAUTION scuffing, or any imperfections in the casting.
Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in 3. Inspect all threaded areas for damaged or stripped
conjunction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or dam- threads.
age to the sealing surface may result.
4. Inspect the bearing areas for cracks or excessive
PISTON ASSEMBLY bearing movement. If evidence of excessive bear-
ing movement is noted, repair by peening the bear-
1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove ing area in a pinking (sawtooth) pattern.
the carbon buildup from the dome of each piston. 5. Inspect the bearing dowel pins for wear.
2. Take an old piston ring and snap it into two pieces;
then grind the end of the old ring to a 45° angle 6. Inspect the sealing surfaces of the crankcase
halves for trueness by placing each crankcase half
and to a sharp edge. Using the sharpened ring as a on the surface plate covered with #400 grit wet-or-
tool, clean carbon from the ring-grooves. Be sure
to position the ring with its tapered side up. dry sandpaper. Using light pressure, move each
half in a figure eight motion. Inspect the sealing
surfaces for any indication of high spots. A high
! CAUTION spot can be noted by a bright metallic finish. Cor-
Improper cleaning of the ring-grooves by the use of rect any high spots by continuing to move the half
the wrong type of ring-groove cleaner will result in in a figure eight motion until a uniform bright
severe damage to the piston. metallic finish is attained.
„NOTE: Care must be taken not to remove an
3. Inspect each piston for cracks in the piston pin and excessive amount of aluminum, or the crankcase
skirt areas.
will have to be replaced. If excessive aluminum is
4. Inspect each piston for seizure marks or scuffing. removed, too much pre-load will be exerted on the
Repair with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and crankshaft bearings when assembled.
water or honing oil.

MD0200A
AN135
! CAUTION
„NOTE: If scuffing or seizure marks are too deep
to correct with the sandpaper, it will be necessary Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in
conjunction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or dam-
to replace the piston.
age to the sealing surface may result.
5. Inspect the perimeter of each piston for signs of
excessive “blowby.” Excessive “blowby” indicates ADAPTER PLATES
worn piston rings or an out-of-round cylinder.
1. Inspect for cracks, scoring, pitting, imperfections,
or warping.

2-44
 2. Inspect the sealing surfaces for trueness by placing 3. Inspect the connecting-rod bearings by rotating
each on the surface plate covered with #400 grit them. The bearings must rotate freely and must not
wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using light pressure, move bind or feel rough. If a connecting-rod bearing
both sides in a figure eight motion. Inspect the must be replaced, the connecting rod and crank pin
sealing surface for any indication of high spots or must also be replaced.
warping. Correct high spots by continuing to move
each side in a figure eight motion. Warped compo-
nents must be replaced.
„NOTE: In order to inspect adapter plate trueness,
it will be necessary to remove the studs.

! CAUTION
Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in
conjunction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or dam-
age to the sealing surfaces may result.

FC040
4. Inspect the oil-injection pump drive gear for any
2
signs of worn or chipped teeth. If either condition
exists, replace the gear.
„NOTE: Lubricate bearings thoroughly prior to
assembly.

REMOVING OUTER
CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS

„NOTE: Steps 1-2 are for removing the MAG-side

A932 bearing.

CRANKSHAFT 1. Place the crankshaft in a suitable support; then

install Crankshaft Bearing Remover (p/n 0144-
„NOTE: If any servicing of the connecting rods, 302) between the journal and the MAG-side bear-
center bearings, or oil-injection pump drive gear is ing.
necessary, Arctic Cat recommends that the crank-
shaft be taken to a qualified machine shop for that 2. Place the protective cap on the crankshaft end;
service. then remove the bearing from the end of the crank-
shaft. Account for any shim(s). Note the position
of the dowel pin hole.
1. Wash the crankshaft with bearings in parts-clean-
ing solvent.
2. Inspect the bearings for wear, scoring, scuffing,
damage, or discoloration. Rotate the bearings.
Bearings must rotate freely and must not bind or
feel rough. If any abnormal condition is noted,
replace the bearing.

AN068D
3. The PTO-side bearing may be removed simply by
sliding the bearing off the PTO end.

FC039

2-45
 REED VALVE ASSEMBLY

1. Inspect the reed valves, stoppers, and valve blocks

for cracks or any deterioration.

AN151A
4. Inspect the crankshaft bearing area for wear. If any
wear is noted on either end, replace the crankshaft
end.
INSTALLING OUTER AQ046

CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS 2. Wash the reed valves, stopper, and cage assembly
in parts-cleaning solvent and blow dry.
„NOTE: On certain models, steps 1-3 are for
installing the MAG-side bearing.
3. Inspect the reed stopper height. Using a caliper,
measure the distance from the seat to the bottom
outer tip edge of the stopper. Measurement must
1. Wrap a thick towel around the crankshaft; then not exceed specifications. If measurement is not
secure the crankshaft vertically in a vise. within specifications, either bend or replace the
2. Heat the bearing either by placing the entire bear- reed stopper.
ing in a pan of oil on a hot plate or by squirting oil
into the bearing and using a propane torch to heat
the inner race of the bearing until a slight smoke is
noted coming from the bearing.

! CAUTION
DO NOT overheat the bearing.

3. Place any shims removed during disassembly onto

the crankshaft; then slide the bearing onto the
crankshaft making sure the dowel-pin hole in the
outer race is properly positioned and will align
with its hole and pin in the crankcase.
AJ156
4. Slide the PTO-side bearing onto the PTO end mak- 4. Inspect the reed-to-seat clearance. Using a feeler
ing sure the dowel-pin hole will align with the hole gauge, measure the clearance. Clearance must be
and pin in the crankcase. less than 0.20 mm (0.008 in.). If clearance is not
within specifications, replace the reed valve.
5. To assemble, place the reed valves on the cage
with its clipped corner positioned to the lower
right hand corner of the cage. Place the reed stop-
per assembly into position and secure with the
three screws coated with red Loctite #271.

AN151A

2-46
 CYLINDER TRUENESS

1. Measure each cylinder in the three locations from

front to back and side to side for a total of six read-
ings.

AQ047

Measuring Critical
Components
MD2493
2. The trueness (out-of-roundness) is the difference
2
„NOTE: Critical engine specifications charts can
be found at the beginning of this section. between the highest and lowest reading. Maxi-
mum trueness (out-of-roundness) must not exceed
CYLINDER HEAD VOLUME specifications.
(Squish-Gap Method)

To check the squish gap, a micrometer and a heavy

piece of solder will be needed.
1. Remove the spark plugs from the engine.
2. Insert the solder piece down through the spark
plug hole and push it up against the inner cylinder
bore towards the MAG-side of the engine.
3. Pull the recoil rope and crank the engine over sev-
eral times while the solder is being held firmly in
place.
0725-586
4. Remove the solder from the cylinder. Using the
micrometer, measure the very end of the squeezed PISTON SKIRT/CYLINDER
solder piece. Record the reading. CLEARANCE
„NOTE: If the solder hasn’t been squeezed by the
piston, a larger piece of solder must be used. 1. Measure each cylinder front to back about 2.5 cm
Repeat procedure. (1 in.) from the bottom of each cylinder.
2. Measure the corresponding piston skirt diameter at a
5. Using the opposite end of the solder piece, insert it point 1 cm (0.394 in.) above the piston skirt at a
down through the spark plug hole towards the right angle to the piston-pin bore. Subtract this mea-
PTO-side of the engine. Push on the solder until it surement from the measurement in step 1. The dif-
contacts the inner cylinder bore. ference (clearance) must be within specifications.
6. Pull the recoil rope and crank the engine over sev-
eral times. Remove the solder from the cylinder
and measure the squeezed end with a micrometer.
Record reading and refer to the chart.
„NOTE: Measure from PTO to MAG-side of the pis-
ton to accurately measure the squish gap. Never
measure across piston, exhaust to carburetor
side, as the piston will rock and the reading won’t
be accurate.

Readings may vary from side to side. Make sure the

smaller reading is within the specifications listed.
2-47
 2. Insert a snap gauge into each piston-pin bore; then
remove the gauge and measure it with a microme-
ter. The diameter measurement must be within
specifications. Take two measurements to ensure
accuracy.

AC091

PISTON-RING END GAP

1. Place each piston ring in the wear portion above

the exhaust port of its respective cylinder. Use the
piston to position each ring squarely in each cylin- AC092

der.
CONNECTING-ROD SMALL END
2. Using a feeler gauge, measure each piston-ring BORE
end gap. Acceptable ring end gap must be within
specifications. 1. Insert a snap gauge into each connecting-rod small
end bore; then remove the gauge and measure it
with a micrometer.

MD2501

PISTON PIN AND PISTON-PIN BORE AN061

2. The diameter measurement must be within specifi-
1. Measure the piston pin diameter at each end and in cations.
the center. Acceptable piston pin measurement
must be within specifications. If any measurement CRANKSHAFT RUNOUT
varies by more than 0.02 mm (0.001 in.), the pis-
ton pin and bearing must be replaced as a set. 1. Using the V Blocks (p/n 0644-022), support the
crankshaft on the surface plate.
„NOTE: The V blocks should support the crank-
shaft on the outer bearings.

2. Mount a dial indicator and base on the surface

plate. Position the indicator contact point against
the crankshaft location point F (PTO-end) from the
crankshaft end. Zero the indicator and rotate the
crankshaft slowly. Note the amount of crankshaft
runout (total indicator reading).
„NOTE: For runout location point specifications,
see Crankshaft Runout Specifications chart on
AN056 page 19 of this section.

2-48
 3. Position the indicator contact point against the „NOTE: Make sure the crankshaft center C-ring
crankshaft location point D (MAG-end) from the (integral with the center seal) is properly posi-
crankshaft end. Zero the indicator and rotate the tioned in the groove of the upper crankcase half.
crankshaft slowly. Note the amount of crankshaft
runout (total indicator reading).
! CAUTION
If the bearings are not properly seated during
assembly, the crankcase halves will not seal tightly
and severe engine damage will result.

4. Install the four crankcase dowel pins.

5. Evenly apply a thin coat of Three Bond Sealant (p/n
0636-070) to the entire bottom half crankcase seal-
ing surface.
„NOTE: Use only Three Bond Sealant (p/n 0636-
070) to seal the crankcase halves.

FC046
4. Position the indicator contact point against the
2
crankshaft at location point E (center). Zero the
indicator and rotate the crankshaft slowly. Note
the amount of crankshaft runout (total indicator
reading).
5. If runout exceeds specifications at any of the
checkpoints, the crankshaft must be either
straightened or replaced.

Assembling Engine
MD0203
6. Install crankcase lower half. Install eight 8 mm
„NOTE: The use of new gaskets and seals is rec- and four 6 mm cap screws. Tighten in three steps
ommended when assembling the engine. the 8 mm cap screws to specifications and the 6
mm cap screws to specifications using the pattern
„NOTE: When the use of a lubricant is indicated, shown.
use Arctic Cat 50:1 Injection Oil.

1. Place the upper crankcase half (with its bottom

side up) on two blocks of wood.

! CAUTION
To prevent damage to the crankshaft, crankshaft
bearings, or seals, make sure to always lift the
crankshaft from both ends.

2. Lightly grease the inner lips of the crankshaft

seals; then slide them onto the crankshaft.
3. Apply oil to the crankshaft bearings; then install 737-027A
the crankshaft into the upper crankcase half. Be
sure the alignment hole in each bearing is posi-
tioned over its respective dowel pin in the crank-
case; then seat the crankshaft.
„NOTE: To check the bearing for proper position,
place the point of a sharp tool into the dimple
found in the bearing race. Strike the tool with the
palm of the hand in either direction. If the bearing
moves, it isn’t positioned correctly and must be
rotated until it drops onto the dowel pin.

2-49
 7. Install the piston rings on each piston so the letter
on the top (inclined surface) of each ring faces the
dome of the piston.

MD0212

„NOTE: Check the reed valve on each cylinder for

cracking or fraying around the edges. Make sure
they are closing completely. 726-306A

„NOTE: To inspect a reed valve assembly, remove ! CAUTION

the two Phillips-head screws securing the reed Incorrect installation of the piston rings will result in
valve and reed valve stopper to the block; then engine damage.
remove the reed valve and stopper.
„NOTE: If the existing rings will not be replaced
with new rings, note the location and top side of
each ring for proper installation. When replacing
with new rings, replace as a complete set only.
When replacing rings note notches in ring ends
which correspond with locating pins in ring
grooves on intake side of the piston. This prevents
the rings from turning on the piston when assem-
bled.

MD0088

„NOTE: Apply blue Loctite #243 on the Phillips-

head screws when assembling.

„NOTE: Make sure the angled corner on the reed

valve align with the angled corner on the reed
valve stopper.

MD0208

MD0213

! CAUTION MD0272

Do not over-tighten the Phillips-head screws when

installing the reed valves and reed valve stoppers.

2-50
 MD0271 MD0248
8. Lubricate the piston pin bearings and install them 11. Place the cylinder base gasket into position on the
into the connecting rods. crankcase making sure the gasket is properly ori-
ented so the dowel pins will fit through the holes
9. Install a piston pin bearing washer on each side of easily.
the bearings with the open sides facing the bear-
ings. „NOTE: Be sure to spray a thin coat of Copper
Coat Gasket Sealant (p/n 0636-092) onto the gas-
2
„NOTE: The open sides of the piston pin bearing ket if it is being reused.
washers must face the bearing.
! CAUTION
Make sure the circlips are firmly seated in their
grooves and the open ends are pointed up or down
before continuing with assembly.

12. Rotate each piston ring until the ring ends are
properly positioned with the pins in the ring
grooves; then apply oil to the piston assemblies
and cylinder bores. Using a ring compressor or the
fingers, compress the rings and slide the cylinder
over the piston. Seat the cylinder firmly onto the
crankcase.
MD0251 „NOTE: The cylinders should slide on easily. DO
10. Place pistons over the connecting rods with the NOT force them on.
arrow (or indicator dot) pointing toward the
exhaust port; then secure with an oiled piston pin.
Install piston pin circlips with the open ends up or
down.

MD0229
13. Secure each cylinder by installing the four 6 mm
and eight 10 mm nuts. Tighten the 10 mm nuts to
specifications and the 6 mm nuts to specifications.
MD0293

2-51
 MD0086 0738-291
15. Install the spark plugs; then tighten to specifica-
tions. Pressure test the engine (see Section 3).

MD0087
14. Install a new cylinder head gasket and the cylinder
head; then install the eight cap screws and two
nuts with washers. Tighten in three steps to speci- MS385

fications using the pattern shown. 16. Position the seal retainer plate on the PTO-side;
then install the four cap screws. Tighten the cap
screws to specifications.

MS384

MD0253

MS384

MD0292

2-52
17. Install the stator plate so the ignition wire cut-out
is in the upper left position. Lightly coat the four
Allen-head cap screws with red Loctite #271; then
install and tighten them to specifications.

MD0074

2
MD0255
18. Place the stator wiring through the hole in the
crankcase; then install the stator. Lightly coat the
three Allen-head cap screws with red Loctite
#271; then tighten them to specifications.

MD0073
20. Install the rubber insulator grommet into the
crankcase.

MD0076

MD0262
21. Install the key; then install the flywheel and cap
screw (threads coated with red Loctite #271).
Tighten the cap screw only until snug.
„NOTE: Do not tighten the flywheel cap screw at
this point.
MD0274
19. Place the ignition timing sensor wiring through the
hole in the crankcase; then position the ignition
timing sensor and install two Phillips-head cap
screws (coated with red Loctite #271). Tighten the
cap screws securely.

2-53
 24. Using the six cap screws and the special washers,
install the rear (intake-side) shroud. Tighten the
cap screws to specifications.

MD0264
22. Place the fan and starter pulley into position on the
flywheel. Using Spanner Wrench (p/n 0144-007)
to hold the starter cup, tighten the three cap screws
(coated with green Loctite #609 and Loctite MD0277

Primer #7471) to specifications. 25. Using the five 6 mm cap screws and the special
washers, install the front (exhaust-side) cooling
shroud and tighten to specifications. Install the
! CAUTION rubber spark plug grommets; then tighten the cap
Do not use green Loctite #609 without also using screws securely.
Loctite Primer #7471.

! CAUTION
When installing the fan, make sure that the locating
pins on the flywheel align with the indentations in
the fan.

MD0269

MD0280
23. Using Spanner Wrench (p/n 0144-007) to hold the
starter cup, tighten the flywheel cap screw (from
step 21) to specifications.

MD0268
26. Install the main fan shroud and recoil starter
assembly. Tighten the eight cap screws to specifi-
cations.

MD0278

2-54
 MD0279 MD0273
29. Install the oil injection pump aligning the slot on
the oil pump with the flat on the end of the oil
injection pump driveshaft. Tighten the Allen-head
cap screws to specifications.
2

MD0291
27. Lubricate the oil-injection pump driveshaft; then
while rotating the driveshaft, install it and the
thrust washer into the lower crankcase half.
„NOTE: Make sure the thrust washer is installed MD0294

on the oil injection pump driveshaft when it is

installed.

MD0090
30. Install the intake flange assembly using washers,
lock washers, and nuts. Note the placement of gas-
MD0252 kets with a thin coat of High-Temp Sealant (p/n
28. Install the oil injection pump driveshaft retainer 0636-069), heat deflector, gaskets, insulators, and
and O-ring. flanges. Tighten the nuts (threads coated with red
Loctite #271) to specifications.
„NOTE: Make sure the O-ring is installed on the oil
injection pump driveshaft retainer when it is 31. Install the exhaust manifold and gaskets with a
installed. thin coat of High-Temp Sealant (p/n 0636-069)
using lock washers and nuts. Tighten the nuts to
specifications.

2-55
 8. Place the expansion chamber and grafoil gasket
Installing Engine into position and secure with springs.

1. Place each engine mounting bracket onto the

engine. Secure with cap screws (coated with blue
Loctite #243), washers, and lock washers. Tighten
to specifications.
2. Place the engine assembly into position in the
engine compartment. Secure the engine to the
front end with the cap screws, washers, and lock
nuts. Tighten to specifications.

AB105D
9. Place the engine mount shims into position
between the torque bumper and engine mounting
bracket; then tighten the torque bumper jam nut.
10. Place the drive clutch into position on the crank-
shaft; then install the lock washer and bolt.
Tighten the clutch bolt to specifications.

570-ENG07A
3. Connect the oil-supply hose to the oil-injection
pump; then bleed the system (see Section 4).
„NOTE: If equipped with electric start, place the
starter motor bracket on the crankcase and install
the front two and lower rear cap screws, lock wash-
ers, and washers. Place the starter motor into posi-
tion and secure with two washers and lock nuts.

4. Connect the oil-injection cable to the oil-injection CM016

pump control arm and secure the cable mounting ! CAUTION
pin with a nylon washer and E-clip.
When installing the drive clutch, do not tighten the
5. Place the carburetors into position making sure the clutch bolt with any kind of impact tool. Tighten bolt
boots are properly positioned and secure with the using a hand torque wrench only. Failure to do so
flange clamps. could result in stationary sheave damage.

! CAUTION „NOTE: Apply a coat of Anti-Seize Thread Com-

pound (p/n 0678-146) to the keyway end of the
When installing the carburetors, make sure the
driven shaft.
gasline hoses are properly routed to avoid prema-
ture wear and/or contact with exhaust components.
11. Install the driven pulley and alignment washers.
„NOTE: At this point, check oil-injection system Secure with a cap screw (threads coated with blue
synchronization (see Section 4).
Loctite #243) and washer tightened to 3.3 kg-m
(24 ft-lb).
6. Connect the impulse hose to the crankcase, the
main wiring harness, the CDI unit wiring harness,
and the spark plug caps.
7. Place the recoil starter into position and secure
with four cap screws and lock washers. Tighten to
specifications.
„NOTE: If equipped with electric start, secure the
battery ground cable with the rear cap screw.

2-56
 „NOTE: Some illustrations and photographs used
in this section are used for clarity purposes only
and are not designed to depict actual conditions.

Table of Contents

Removing .............................................................. 2-57

Disassembling ....................................................... 2-60
Servicing Top-Side Components........................... 2-65
Cleaning and Inspecting........................................ 2-70
SC013D
Measuring Critical Components ............................ 2-73
Assembling............................................................ 2-75
„NOTE: At this point, check drive clutch/driven Installing ................................................................ 2-82
pulley alignment (see Section 8).

12. Install the drive belt and secure the belt guard. Removing Engine
Install the plug in the belly pan. 2
„NOTE: If equipped with electric start, connect the „NOTE: Prior to starting the removing procedure,
battery. disconnect the hood harness and the air intake
connector from the air silencer; then remove the
13. Turn the gas tank shut-off valve to the OPEN posi- cables and pins securing the hood to the front end
tion. and remove the hood.
14. Check the ignition timing.
1. Remove all springs securing the expansion cham-
15. Place the rear of the snowmobile up on a shielded ber and resonator; then remove these components
safety stand. Start engine and allow to warm up. from the engine compartment.
Adjust engine idle to 1500 RPM and check all
safety switches for proper operation. 2. Remove the left-side and right-side access panels
and remove the belt guard; then remove the drive
16. Test drive the snowmobile; then tighten the clutch belt (see Section 8).
bolt to specifications. 3. Using a ½-in. 12-point socket, remove the cap
screw and lock washer securing the drive clutch to
! CAUTION the crankshaft.
If the engine had a major overhaul or if any major
part was replaced, proper engine break-in proce-
dures must be followed.

Engine -
Crossfire 500/600 -
M-Series 600

This engine servicing sub-section has been organized

to show a progression for the complete servicing of the
Arctic Cat 500 cc/600 cc (Crossfire/M-Series) engines. FC002A
For consistency purposes, this sub-section shows a
complete and thorough progression; however, for effi- 4. Using Clutch Puller (p/n 0644-207) and an impact
ciency it may be preferable to remove the engine as a wrench or a breaker bar and Spanner Wrench (p/n
complete assembly, to remove and disassemble only 0644-136), tighten the puller. If the drive clutch
those components which need to be addressed, and to will not release, sharply strike the head of the
service only those components. Also, some compo- puller. Repeat this step until the clutch releases.
nents may vary from model to model. The technician Remove the drive clutch. If applicable, account for
should use discretion and sound judgment. the two sleeves.

„NOTE: Critical torque specifications can be 5. Remove the cap screw from the driven pulley and
found on pages 10-13 of this section. slide the driven pulley off the gear case input shaft.
Account for alignment washers.

2-57
 MS378 CM123A

„NOTE: If the driven pulley is tight on the driven 8. Slide each cable drum out of the slot of the servo-
shaft, pull the driven pulley off using the Driven
motor actuator.
Pulley Puller (p/n 0644-460).

„NOTE: Steps 6-8 are for the 600 cc engine. For

the 500 cc engine, proceed to step 9.

6. Loosen the two lock nuts securing the servomotor

and cover; then remove the cover. Using a small
needle-nose pliers, remove the servomotor retain-
ing clip and the cable holder.

CM124A
9. Drain the engine coolant (see Liquid Cooling Sys-
tem - Section 3).
10. Disconnect the ignition harness from the ECU;
then remove the torx-head screw securing the air
silencer to the front end. Remove the silencer.

CM126A

CM026A
11. Pull the air silencer boot forward enough to gain
access to the throttle body/carburetor assembly.
CM127
7. Rotate the servomotor actuator counterclockwise
to loosen the cable; then pull the cable housings
down and out of the servomotor.

2-58
 CM027 CM029A
12. Loosen the flange clamps securing the throttle 15. Remove the recoil starter and secure it up and out
body assembly to the flange; then move the throt- of the way in the engine compartment.
tle body assembly forward to allow room to dis-
connect the oil injection cable/control rod from the 16. Remove the cap screws securing the left side of
oil-injection pump. the steering support to the chassis.
2

CM028A CM004B

13. Loosen the clamps securing the coolant hoses con- 17. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the
nected to the cylinders beneath the exhaust ports; side-plate brace to the chassis.
then remove the vent tube from the top of the cyl-
inder head.

CM070B
18. Remove the cap screw (A) and lock nuts (B)
CM030A securing the left-side engine mounting bracket to
14. Move the throttle body assembly to one side out of the engine and chassis. Remove the bracket.
the way to a secure position.
„NOTE: With the throttle body assembly out of the
way, disconnect the oil hose from the oil pump;
then plug the oil hose.

2-59
 500 cc

742-240A CM034C

„NOTE: If equipped with electric start, loosen the

600 cc
two set screws securing the flex-drive shaft to the
pinion drive.

„NOTE: Inspect the engine to ensure all wires,

hoses, and cables have been removed.

23. Lift the engine out of the engine compartment.

24. Remove the exhaust manifold from the engine.
Account for flange nuts and gaskets.
25. Remove the clamp securing the coolant supply
742-238A hose from the cylinder head to the water pump.
19. Loosen the cap screw/lock nut (C) securing the Then remove the hose from the engine.
right-side engine mounting bracket to the front
end.
Disassembling Engine
20. On the 600 cc, remove the cap screw and lock nut
(D) securing the engine bracket to the front lower
mounting bracket. 1. Using the spanner wrench to secure the flywheel,
remove the flywheel cap screw and flat washer;
21. Disconnect all electrical wires from the engine. then remove the three starter pulley cap screws
„NOTE: For installing purposes, note the routing and remove the pulley.
of the harnesses and the location of cable ties.

22. Disconnect the lower coolant hose; then move the

engine toward the left and up to allow enough
room to remove the remaining coolant hose.

FC014

MS382D

2-60
 FC015 FC022
2. Install Flywheel Pulley Insert (p/n 0644-179) onto 5. Remove the Allen-head cap screws securing the
the end of the crankshaft. stator to the stator plate. Move the stator to the
side to access the Phillips-head cap screw securing
the stator lead wire; then remove the cap screw.
2

FC016
3. Using Flywheel Puller (p/n 0744-040) or suitable
substitute, remove the flywheel from the crank- FC018
shaft by tightening the puller bolt, striking the 6. On the 600 cc, remove the Allen-head cap screws
head of the puller bolt with a hammer, and tighten- securing the magneto case to the crankcase.
ing again. Repeat this procedure until the flywheel Account for the alignment pins.
is free. Account for the key.
„NOTE: Note the different-sized cap screws for
assembling purposes.
! CAUTION
To prevent damage to the crankshaft, do not thread
puller bolts more than 12.7 mm (1/2 in.) into the fly-
wheel. Damage to the coils may result.

FC019

CM013

„NOTE: To ensure the cleanliness of the flywheel

magnets, place the flywheel (with the magnets fac-
ing upward) on a clean bench.

4. Remove the ignition timing sensor.

2-61
 FC020 FC023
7. Remove the stator plate from the engine.

FC024

FC021

FC025
9. Remove the spark plugs.
FC065

„NOTE: The stator plate screws had Loctite 10. Remove the cap screws with O-rings securing the
applied to the threads during assembly. Using an
cylinder head; then separate from the cylinders.
Account for the O-rings.
impact driver, apply a sharp blow to the head of
each screw to break the Loctite loose before 11. Remove the oil-injection hose from each cylinder
removal. and the crankcase nozzle.

8. On the 600 cc, remove the cap screws securing the

APV assemblies to the cylinders; then remove the
APV assemblies and set them aside.
„NOTE: Note that the APV exhaust valves and
gaskets are directional for assembling purposes.

„NOTE: The following photographs are for clarity

purposes only. The models may vary slightly.

2-62
 FC026 FC027

„NOTE: When removing the cylinders, place the 14. Remove the PTO-side piston-pin circlip from the
engine on its intake flanges on a drain tray to allow
PTO-side piston; then remove the MAG-side pis-
ton-pin circlip from the MAG-side piston.
residual coolant to drain from the cylinder/crank-

2
case water jacket.

12. On the 500 cc, remove the eight nuts securing the
cylinders to the crankcase; then using a rubber
hammer, gently tap the cylinders and remove from
the crankcase by lifting them straight up off their
studs. Account for gasket(s) and any alignment
pins.
13. On the 600 cc, remove the four nuts and four bolts
securing the cylinders to the crankcase; then using
a rubber hammer, gently tap the cylinders and
remove from the crankcase by lifting them straight
up off their studs. Account for gasket(s) and any
alignment pins. FC028
15. Using Piston Pin Puller (p/n 0644-328), remove
the piston pins from both pistons.
! CAUTION
When removing a cylinder, be sure to support the „NOTE: For proper assembly, keep all MAG-side
piston to prevent damage to the crankcase and pis- components and all PTO-side components sepa-
ton. rated. Assemble them on their proper sides.

FC067 FC029

! CAUTION
DO NOT use any type of punch to drive the piston
pin free of the piston; damage may result. Use a pis-
ton-pin puller only.

16. Lift the pistons clear of the connecting rods and

remove the small-end connecting-rod bearings
(account for two washers); then remove the piston
rings. Keep each piston with its rings; keep each
piston pin and bearing together as a set.
2-63
 21. Remove either lower union cap screw securing the
lower check valve assembly; then remove the two
screws securing the oil-injection pump to the
crankcase. Remove the pump, retainer, and O-ring.

CM151

„NOTE: On the 500 cc, place rubber bands over

the connecting rods and around the cylinder
studs. This will prevent the connecting rods from
damaging the crankcase. On the 600 cc, use rub- FC031
ber hoses to secure the connecting rods. 22. Turn the engine upside down on support blocks
and remove the coolant temperature sensor switch.
17. Remove the intake flanges and reed valve assem-
blies.

FC033
23. With its bottom side up on two support blocks,
FC030 remove the cap screws securing the crankcase
18. Remove the three cap screws securing the thermo- halves.
stat cap; then remove the cap, gasket, and thermo-
stat. „NOTE: The end bearings are not pressed onto
the crankshaft.

24. Separate the crankcase halves by installing two

crankcase cap screws in opposite corners leaving
the heads approximately 6 mm (1/4 in.) out. Using
a plastic hammer and lifting on the ends of the
crankshaft, tap on each cap screw head until the
case halves separate. Remove the cap screws.

! CAUTION
DO NOT drive any tool between halves to separate
the crankcase. Damage to the sealing surfaces will
result.
FC032
19. Remove the six screws securing the water pump
cover to the crankcase and remove the cover.
Account for the O-ring gasket and the alignment
pins.
20. Remove the cap screw securing the water pump
impeller; then slide the impeller free of the shaft.

2-64
 FC034 FC036
25. Lift the bottom half of the crankcase off the top 29. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, remove the snap
half. ring securing the inner seal in the crankcase.
30. Using the hooked end of the tool, pull the inner
! CAUTION
Care must be taken to not allow the connecting rods
to drop onto the sealing surface of the bottom case
seal free of the crankcase.
31. Using the hooked end of the tool, pry the seal ring
2
half. from the backside of the water pump impeller.

26. Lift the crankshaft free from the top half of the
crankcase and slide the crankshaft oil seals off the
crankshaft. Account for the C-ring. Remove the
bearing retaining pins and account for the crank-
case dowel pins.
27. Remove the oil-injection pump/water pump drive-
shaft from the lower crankcase half. Account for
the thrust washer on the outer end of the shaft.

AN327D

Servicing Top-Side
Components

Many services can be performed without removing the

engine. Some components may vary from model to
model. The technician should use discretion and sound
FC035
judgment when removing and installing components.
„NOTE: Do not replace the inner seals unless the
„NOTE: Some photographs used in this sub-sec-
water pump shows signs of leaking coolant out of
tion are used for clarity purposes only and are not
the small bleed hole in the bottom half of the
designed to depict actual conditions.
crankcase. If a water pump seal is to be replaced,
use the Water Pump Bearing and Seal Kit (p/n REMOVING TOP-SIDE
0644-084).
COMPONENTS
28. Place the crankcase on the bench with the water
pump side down. Using the long seal driver, drive To access top-side components, use the following pro-
cedure:
the mechanical water pump seal from the crank-
case. 1. Remove the expansion chamber and resonator;
then remove the exhaust manifold.

2-65
 CM035 FC056
2. Drain the engine coolant (see Liquid Cooling Sys- 7. Disconnect the two coolant hoses located beneath
tem - Section 3). the exhaust ports on the cylinders.
3. Remove the cap screws and the lock nuts securing
the side-plate brace to the chassis; then remove the
brace.
„NOTE: The cap screws securing the steering
support to the chassis must be removed to remove
the side-plate brace.

FC050A

„NOTE: At this point, remove all loose hardware to

avoid any falling down into the chassis.

8. Remove the residual coolant from the cylinder/

crankcase water jacket.

CM004B
„NOTE: After draining the coolant, approximately
1.75 fluid oz of coolant will remain on both the
4. Remove the coolant hose and breather hose con- MAG-side and PTO-side. To remove the residual
nected to the cylinder head.
coolant, use the following procedure.
5. Remove the twelve 10 mm cap screws and two 8
mm cap screws (500 cc) securing the cylinder a. Using Vacuum Pump (p/n 0644-131), or a suit-
head; then remove the cylinder head. Account for able substitute, rig the pump to 3/16 in. outside
the O-rings. diameter hose.

FC060 FC058

6. On the 600 cc, remove the APV’s from the cylin- b. In turn on each fitting of the crankcase, run the
der. vacuum pump to purge the cylinder/crankcase
water jacket of the residual coolant.

2-66
„NOTE: It is critical that all residual coolant is
totally removed from the cylinder/crankcase.

„NOTE: At this point, remove all loose hardware to

avoid any falling down into the chassis.

9. Remove the nuts (500 cc) or the cap screws and

nuts (600 cc) securing the cylinders to the crank-
case; then using a rubber hammer, gently tap the
cylinders and remove from the crankcase by lifting
them straight up off their studs. Account for gas-
ket(s) and any alignment pins.

FC064

„NOTE: The piston pins must be removed from the

PTO-side of the piston.

! CAUTION
Do not use the large extractor nut to remove the pin
2
or damage to the piston may occur.

„NOTE: For proper assembly, keep all MAG-side

components and all PTO-side components sepa-
rated. Assemble them on their proper sides.
FC061
„NOTE: For servicing procedures, see Cleaning
„NOTE: If servicing the MAG-side only, the PTO-
and Inspecting Engine and Measuring Critical
side cylinder must be removed.
Components in this sub-section.

INSTALLING TOP-SIDE
COMPONENTS

„NOTE: Critical torque specifications are located

in the Assembly Schematics sub-section of this
section.

„NOTE: When installing the pistons, make sure to

install the MAG-side piston-pin circlips first with
the open ends directed either up or down.

1. Place the cylinders into position on the crankcase

FC062 accounting for gasket(s) and any alignment pins.
„NOTE: After the cylinders have been removed, it
is advisable to cover the crankcase to avoid com-
ponents falling into the crankcase.

10. Remove the PTO-side piston-pin circlip from the

PTO-side piston; then remove the PTO-side pis-
ton-pin circlip from the MAG-side piston.
11. Using Piston Pin Puller (p/n 0644-328) and
Medium Extractor Nut (p/n 0643-074), remove the
piston pins from both pistons.

FC061

2-67
 4. Place each piston over the connecting rod so the
indicator dot on each piston will point toward the
intake/exhaust ports; then secure with an oiled pis-
ton pin.
„NOTE: The indicator dot (A) is found on the pis-
ton dome.

FC062
2. Install the piston rings on each piston so the letter
on the top (inclined surface) of each ring faces the
dome of the piston.

CM194A
5. Install the new circlips so the open end is directed
either up or down.

726-306A

! CAUTION
Incorrect installation of the piston rings will result in
engine damage.

3. Apply oil to the connecting-rod small end bear-

ings; then install the small-end bearings. Install a CM195A
washer on each side of the connecting rod.
! CAUTION
„NOTE: The shoulder side of the washer must Make sure the circlips are firmly seated and the open
seat to the needle bearing. end is directed either up or down before continuing
with assembly.

6. Rotate each piston ring until the ring ends are

properly positioned on either side of the ring
keeper; then apply oil to the piston assemblies and
cylinder bores. Remove the rubber hoses from the
connecting rods.
7. In turn on each cylinder, place a piston holder (or
suitable substitute) beneath the piston skirt and
square the piston in respect to the crankcase; then
using a ring compressor or the fingers, compress
the rings and slide the cylinder over the piston.
Remove the piston holder and seat the cylinder
CM172A
firmly onto the crankcase.

„NOTE: Prior to installing the pistons, make sure ! CAUTION

to install the MAG-side piston pin circlips first.
The cylinders should slide on easily. DO NOT force
the pistons into the cylinders.

2-68
 8. Loosely secure the cylinders with existing hard-
ware. Do not tighten at this time. 500 cc

„NOTE: The cylinders will be tightened at the

same time as the exhaust manifold is installed to
assure proper cylinder to exhaust manifold align-
ment.

9. Connect the two coolant hoses on the cylinders

beneath the exhaust ports.

0738-204

„NOTE: On the 500 cc after tightening the 8 mm

cap screws, tighten the two remaining 6 mm cap
screws to specifications.

600 cc
2

FC050A
10. On the 600 cc, install the APV’s into the cylinder
and secure with existing hardware.

! CAUTION
The long side of the exhaust valve must be facing
toward the cylinder head or severe engine damage
may occur. 0738-205
12. Install the exhaust manifold. Tighten existing
hardware to specifications.

FC056
11. Place the cylinder head into position on the cylin-
ders making sure the O-rings are properly posi- FC049
tioned; then in two steps, tighten the 8 mm cap
„NOTE: At this point, tighten the cylinders (from
screws to specifications using the appropriate pat-
tern shown. step 8) to specifications.

2-69
 3. Inspect the cylinder head for flatness using a
500 cc straightedge and a feeler gauge. Acceptable
warpage must not exceed 0.05 mm (0.002 in.).
„NOTE: If the warpage exceeds specification,
resurface the cylinder head using procedures
identified in step 4.

0738-206

600 cc

FS270
4. Place the cylinder heads on a Surface Plate (p/n
0644-016) covered with #400 grit wet-or-dry
sandpaper. Using light pressure, move each cylin-
der head in a figure eight motion. Inspect the seal-
0738-220 ing surface for any indication of high spots. A high
13. Install the coolant hose and breather hose onto the spot can be noted by a bright metallic finish. Cor-
cylinder head. rect any high spots before assembly by continuing
to move the cylinder head in a figure eight motion
14. Install the expansion chamber and resonator using until a uniform bright metallic finish is attained.
existing hardware.
15. Install the side-plate brace and secure with exist-
ing hardware.
16. Secure the steering support to the chassis. Tighten
to 2.8 kg-m (20 ft-lb).
17. Fill the cooling system with recommended coolant
(see Liquid Cooling System in Section 3).

Cleaning and Inspecting

Engine
CM018

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively, ! CAUTION

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in
necessary. conjunction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or dam-
age to the sealing surface may result.
CYLINDER HEAD
CYLINDERS
1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove
any carbon buildup from the combustion chambers 1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove
being careful not to nick, scrape, or damage the carbon buildup from the exhaust ports.
combustion chambers or the sealing surfaces.
2. Wash the cylinders in parts-cleaning solvent.
2. Inspect the spark-plug holes for any damaged
threads. Repair damaged threads using a heli-coil 3. Inspect the cylinders for pitting, scoring, scuffing,
insert. and corrosion. If marks are found, repair the sur-
face with an appropriate ball hone and honing oil
(see chart).

2-70
 BALL HONES
Engine Size p/n
500 cc 0644-291
600 cc 0644-292

„NOTE: To produce the proper 60° crosshatch pat-

tern, use a low RPM drill (600 RPM) at the rate of 30
strokes per minute. If honing oil is not available,
use a lightweight, petroleum-based oil. Thoroughly
clean the cylinders after honing using detergent
soap and hot water and dry with compressed air;
AN135
then immediately apply oil to the cylinder bores. If
a bore is severely damaged or gouged, the cylin- „NOTE: If scuffing or seizure marks are too deep
der will have to be replaced. to correct with the sandpaper, it will be necessary
to replace the piston.
4. Place the head surface of each cylinder on the sur-
face plate covered with #400 grit wet-or-dry sand-
paper. Using light pressure, move each cylinder in
5. Inspect the perimeter of each piston for signs of
excessive “blowby.” Excessive “blowby” indicates
2
a figure eight motion. Inspect the surface for any worn piston rings or an out-of-round cylinder.
indication of high spots. A high spot can be noted
by a bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots CRANKCASE
before assembly by continuing to move the cylin-
der in a figure eight motion until a uniform bright 1. Wash the crankcase halves in parts-cleaning sol-
metallic finish is attained. vent.

! CAUTION „NOTE: Before washing the crankcase halves,

make sure the four bearing dowel pins have been
Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in
removed and accounted for.
conjunction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or dam-
age to the sealing surface may result. 2. Inspect the crankcase halves for scoring, pitting,
scuffing, or any imperfections in the casting.
PISTON ASSEMBLY
3. Inspect all threaded areas for damaged or stripped
1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove threads.
the carbon buildup from the dome of each piston.
4. Inspect the bearing areas for cracks or excessive
2. Take an old piston ring and snap it into two pieces; bearing movement. If evidence of excessive bear-
then grind the end of the old ring to a 45° angle ing movement is noted, repair by peening the bear-
and to a sharp edge. Using the sharpened ring as a ing area in a pinking (sawtooth) pattern.
tool, clean carbon from the ring-grooves. Be sure
to position the ring with its tapered side up. 5. Inspect the bearing dowel pins for wear.
6. Inspect the sealing surfaces of the crankcase
! CAUTION halves for trueness by placing each crankcase half
Improper cleaning of the ring-grooves by the use of on the surface plate covered with #400 grit wet-or-
the wrong type of ring-groove cleaner will result in dry sandpaper. Using light pressure, move each
severe damage to the piston. half in a figure eight motion. Inspect the sealing
surfaces for any indication of high spots. A high
3. Inspect each piston for cracks in the piston pin and spot can be noted by a bright metallic finish. Cor-
skirt areas. rect any high spots by continuing to move the half
in a figure eight motion until a uniform bright
4. Inspect each piston for seizure marks or scuffing. metallic finish is attained.
Repair with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and
water or honing oil. „NOTE: Care must be taken not to remove an
excessive amount of aluminum, or the crankcase
will have to be replaced. If excessive aluminum is
removed, too much pre-load will be exerted on the
crankshaft bearings when assembled.

2-71
 CM160 FC040

! CAUTION 4. Inspect the oil-injection pump drive gear for any

signs of worn or chipped teeth. If either condition
Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in exists, replace the gear.
conjunction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or dam-
age to the sealing surface may result. „NOTE: Lubricate bearings thoroughly prior to
assembly.
CRANKSHAFT REMOVING/INSTALLING OUTER
„NOTE: If any servicing of the connecting rods, CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS
center bearings, or oil-injection pump drive gear is
„NOTE: The end bearings are not pressed onto
necessary, Arctic Cat recommends that the crank-
the crankshaft. The bearings can be removed sim-
shaft be taken to a qualified machine shop for that
ply by sliding them off the crankshaft.
service.

1. Wash the crankshaft with bearings in parts-clean-

ing solvent.
2. Inspect the bearings for wear, scoring, scuffing,
damage, or discoloration. Rotate the bearings.
Bearings must rotate freely and must not bind or
feel rough. If any abnormal condition is noted,
replace the bearing.

CM161
Inspect the crankshaft bearing area for wear. If any
wear is noted on either end, replace the crankshaft end.
„NOTE: Install the bearings by sliding each bear-
ing onto the crankshaft making sure the dowel-pin
hole in the outer race is properly positioned and
will align with its hole and pin in the crankcase.

FC039
3. Inspect the connecting-rod bearings by rotating
them. The bearings must rotate freely and must not
bind or feel rough. If a connecting-rod bearing
must be replaced, the connecting rod and crank pin
must also be replaced.

2-72
 5. To assemble, place the reed valves on the cage
with its clipped corner positioned to the lower
right hand corner of the cage. Place the reed stop-
per assembly into position and secure with the
screws coated with red Loctite #271.

CM161

REED VALVE ASSEMBLY

1. Inspect the reed valves, stoppers, and valve blocks

for cracks or any deterioration.
CM164A 2
Measuring Critical
Components

„NOTE: Critical engine specifications charts can

be found at the beginning of this section.

CYLINDER HEAD VOLUME

(Squish-Gap Method)

To check the squish gap, a micrometer and a heavy

CM162
piece of solder will be needed.
2. Wash the reed valves, stopper, and cage assembly
in parts-cleaning solvent and blow dry. 1. Remove the spark plugs from the engine.
3. Inspect the reed stopper height. Using a caliper, 2. Insert the solder piece down through the spark
measure the distance from the seat to the bottom plug hole and push it up against the inner cylinder
outer tip edge of the stopper. Measurement must bore towards the MAG-side of the engine.
not exceed specifications. If measurement is not
within specifications, either bend or replace the 3. Pull the recoil rope and crank the engine over sev-
reed stopper. eral times while the solder is being held firmly in
place.
4. Remove the solder from the cylinder. Using the
micrometer, measure the very end of the squeezed
solder piece. Record the reading.
„NOTE: If the solder hasn’t been squeezed by the
piston, a larger piece of solder must be used.
Repeat procedure.

5. Using the opposite end of the solder piece, insert it

down through the spark plug hole towards the
PTO-side of the engine. Push on the solder until it
contacts the inner cylinder bore.
AJ156 6. Pull the recoil rope and crank the engine over sev-
4. Inspect the reed-to-seat clearance. Using a feeler eral times. Remove the solder from the cylinder
gauge, measure the clearance. Clearance must be and measure the squeezed end with a micrometer.
less than 0.20 mm (0.008 in.). If clearance is not Record reading and refer to the chart.
within specifications, replace the reed valve.

2-73
„NOTE: Measure from PTO to MAG-side of the pis-
ton to accurately measure the squish gap. Never
measure across piston, exhaust to carburetor
side, as the piston will rock and the reading won’t
be accurate.

Readings may vary from side to side. Make sure the

smaller reading is within the specifications listed.
CYLINDER TRUENESS

1. Measure each cylinder in the three locations from

front to back and side to side for a total of six read-
ings. AC091

PISTON-RING END GAP

1. Place each piston ring in the wear portion above

the exhaust port of its respective cylinder. Use the
piston to position each ring squarely in each cylin-
der.
2. Using a feeler gauge, measure each piston-ring
end gap. Acceptable ring end gap must be within
specifications.

FC044
2. The trueness (out-of-roundness) is the difference
between the highest and lowest reading. Maxi-
mum trueness (out-of-roundness) must not exceed
specifications.

FC045

PISTON PIN AND PISTON-PIN BORE

1. Measure the piston pin diameter at each end and in

the center. Acceptable piston pin measurement
must be within specifications. If any measurement
varies by more than 0.02 mm (0.001 in.), the pis-
0725-586 ton pin and bearing must be replaced as a set.

PISTON SKIRT/CYLINDER
CLEARANCE

1. Measure each cylinder front to back about 2.5 cm

(1 in.) from the bottom of each cylinder.
2. Measure the corresponding piston skirt diameter at
a point 1 cm (0.394 in.) above the piston skirt at a
right angle to the piston-pin bore. Subtract this
measurement from the measurement in step 1. The
difference (clearance) must be within specifica-
tions.
AN056

2-74
 2. Insert a snap gauge into each piston-pin bore; then 3. Position the indicator contact point against the
remove the gauge and measure it with a microme- crankshaft location point D (MAG-end) from the
ter. The diameter measurement must be within crankshaft end. Zero the indicator and rotate the
specifications. Take two measurements to ensure crankshaft slowly. Note the amount of crankshaft
accuracy. runout (total indicator reading).

AC092
4. Position the indicator contact point against the
FC046 2
CONNECTING-ROD SMALL END crankshaft at location point E (center). Zero the
BORE indicator and rotate the crankshaft slowly. Note
the amount of crankshaft runout (total indicator
1. Insert a snap gauge into each connecting-rod small reading).
end bore; then remove the gauge and measure it
with a micrometer. 5. If runout exceeds specifications at any of the
checkpoints, the crankshaft must be either
straightened or replaced.

Assembling Engine

„NOTE: The use of new gaskets and seals is rec-

ommended when assembling the engine.

„NOTE: When the use of a lubricant is indicated,

use Arctic Cat Synthetic APV 2-Cycle Oil.

1. Apply a thin coat of grease to the inner seal lips of

AN061 the water pump seal.
2. The diameter measurement must be within specifi- 2. Using the seal driver, position the inner water
cations. pump shaft seal onto the seal driver and gently tap
CRANKSHAFT RUNOUT the seal down into position.
„NOTE: Grease must be applied to the lips of the
1. Using the V Blocks (p/n 0644-022), support the inner seal before installation.
crankshaft on the surface plate.
„NOTE: The V blocks should support the crank-
shaft on the outer bearings.

2. Mount a dial indicator and base on the surface

plate. Position the indicator contact point against
the crankshaft location point F (PTO-end) from the
crankshaft end. Zero the indicator and rotate the
crankshaft slowly. Note the amount of crankshaft
runout (total indicator reading).
„NOTE: For runout location point specifications,
see Crankshaft Runout Specifications chart on
page 19 of this section.
MS986A

2-75
„NOTE: The seal must be installed with its spring
side towards the crankshaft.

3. Install the snap ring securing the inner seal in the

crankcase.

FS191
6. Position the shim on the oil-injection pump end of
the driveshaft.

MS415
4. Using the seal driver, carefully install the outer
water pump seal. Gently tap the seal down into
position until it seats itself against its flange.

CM044
7. Position the upper crankcase half upside-down on
two wooden blocks; then install the C-ring, the
four bearing retaining pins, and the two crankcase
dowel pins.
8. Place the PTO-side crankshaft bearing into posi-
MS988 tion making sure the bearing retaining pin hole is
5. Apply a thin coat of grease to the sealing surface positioned inward.
of the oil-injection pump/water pump driveshaft;
then place the Oil Seal Protector Tool (p/n 0644- „NOTE: The bearing retaining pin hole is the hole
219) at the end of the shaft. Twist the driveshaft that does not go entirely through the bearing case.
clockwise as it is pushed through the oil and water
pump seals; then remove the tool.

! CAUTION
Be very careful not to damage the seals when
installing the oil pump driveshaft. Be certain to use
the seal protector tool. Twist the driveshaft clock-
wise as it enters the seal area and while it is being
pushed through the seals.

CM043A
9. Lubricate the inner lips of the crankshaft oil seals
with grease; then slide the seals (and rubber spacer
on the 600 cc) onto the crankshaft making sure the
spring side of each seal faces the center of the
crankshaft.

2-76
„NOTE: There is a MAG-side seal and a PTO-side
seal.

10. Apply oil to the crankshaft bearings; then install

the crankshaft into the upper crankcase half. Be
sure the alignment hole in each bearing is posi-
tioned over its respective dowel pin in the crank-
case; then seat the crankshaft.

FC071

„NOTE: Use only Arctic Cat High-Temp Sealant (p/

n 0636-069) to seal the crankcase halves.

12. Assemble the crankcase halves making sure that the

crankshaft gear and oil-injection pump driveshaft
gears mesh. Rotate the crankshaft one full turn to
2
align the crankshaft gear and pump driveshaft.
CM045A
13. Install the crankcase cap screws (coated with blue
„ NOTE: To check the bearing for proper position, Loctite #243) securing the crankcase halves.
place the point of a sharp tool into the dimple
found in the bearing race. Strike the tool with the 14. Tighten the three 6 mm cap screws to specifica-
palm of the hand in either direction. If the bearing tions and the ten 10 mm cap screws to specifica-
moves, it isn’t positioned correctly and must be tions using the appropriate pattern shown.
rotated until it drops onto the dowel pin.
500 cc
! CAUTION
If the bearings are not properly seated during
assembly, the crankcase halves will not seal tightly
and severe engine damage will result.

11. Position the two center seal rings with their end
gaps 180° apart (up on one and down on the
other); then apply a thin coat of High-Temp Seal-
ant (p/n 0636-069) to the entire bottom half of the
crankcase sealing surface.
0738-201

600 cc

CM036A
738-202A

„NOTE: On the 500 cc, secure the connecting rods

with rubber bands. On the 600 cc, secure the con-
necting rods with rubber hoses.

15. Install the oil-injection pump retainer O-ring and

retainer.

2-77
 19. Place the impeller into position and secure with a
cap screw and washer. Be sure the rubber side of
the washer is directed toward the impeller. Apply
blue Loctite #243 to the threads of the cap screw
and tighten to specifications.

! CAUTION
The rubber side of the washer, which secures the
impeller, must be positioned toward the impeller. If
installed incorrectly, a coolant leak will result.

20. Apply high-temperature sealant to the crankcase/

FC082
water pump cover seam; then install the dowel
pins into the crankcase.
16. Install the O-ring and the oil-injection pump mak-
ing sure the pump shaft slot and pump driven gear
shaft align. Secure with two screws (coated with
blue Loctite #243). Tighten the two screws to
specifications.

! CAUTION
Be sure the oil-injection pump/water pump drive-
shaft is properly aligned with the slot of the oil-injec-
tion pump. The pump will be damaged if these two
components are not aligned.

17. Position the ceramic/rubber seal into the back side

of the water pump impeller with the ceramic face
FC133A
of the seal directed out.
„NOTE: It is important to not get sealant into the
breather hole in the crankcase. If sealant gets into
the hole, carefully remove before proceeding.

CM168
18. Using both thumbs, press the seal into position
making sure its marked side is positioned towards
the rubber seal cup; then apply a thin coat of FC072B
grease to the seal outer surface.

FC072A
CM169

2-78
„NOTE: Sealant is only required on the crankcase
seam.

21. Position the O-ring into the water pump cover;

then install the cover. Secure with six screws.
Tighten to specifications.

726-306A

! CAUTION
Incorrect installation of the piston rings will result in
engine damage.

FC134
26. Apply oil to the connecting-rod small end bear-
ings; then install the small-end bearings. Install a
2
22. Noting the alignment dots, install the thermostat washer on each side of the connecting rod.
housing with thermostat. Tighten the existing
hardware to specifications.

FC075

„NOTE: The shoulder side of the washer must

FC078A
seat to the needle bearing.

27. Place each piston over the connecting rod so the

indicator dot on each piston will point toward the
intake/exhaust ports; then secure with an oiled pis-
ton pin.
„NOTE: The indicator dot is found on the piston
dome top.

FC073
23. Secure the intake flanges, reed valve assemblies,
and gaskets with cap screws. Tighten to specifica-
tions.
24. Install the dowel pins into the crankcase; then
place the cylinder base gasket into position on the
crankcase.
25. Install the piston rings on each piston so the letter FC079A
on the top (inclined surface) of each ring faces the
dome of the piston.

2-79
28. Install the new circlips so the open end is directed 33. Install the oil-injection hoses and secure with the
either up or down. clamps; then place the lower check-valve assem-
bly into position and secure with the gaskets and
union cap screw. Tighten securely.
34. Secure the cylinders (from steps 31-32) by tighten-
ing the cylinder base nuts (and cap screws on the
600 cc) to specifications in three steps using the
appropriate pattern shown; then tighten the spark
plugs to specifications.

500 cc

B324D

! CAUTION
Make sure the circlips are firmly seated and the open
end is directed either up or down before continuing
with assembly.

29. Rotate each piston ring until the ring ends are
properly positioned on either side of the ring 0738-206
keeper; then apply oil to the piston assemblies and
cylinder bores. Remove the rubber bands or hoses 600 cc
from the connecting rods.
30. In turn on each cylinder, place a piston holder (or
suitable substitute) beneath the piston skirt and
square the piston in respect to the crankcase; then
using a ring compressor or the fingers, compress
the rings and slide the cylinder over the piston.
Remove the piston holder and seat the cylinder
firmly onto the crankcase.
„NOTE: The cylinders should slide on easily. DO
NOT force the cylinders on.
0738-220
35. Install the two cylinder O-rings on the top of each
cylinder making sure they are correctly positioned
in the grooves.

FC076
31. On the 500 cc, secure the cylinders by installing
the eight nuts. DO NOT TIGHTEN AT THIS
TIME.
FC077
32. On the 600 cc, secure the cylinders by installing
the four nuts and four cap screws. DO NOT
TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME.

2-80
36. Place new O-rings onto each of the head cap
screws. Place four of these cap screws into the cyl-
inder head. Thread the spark plugs in part way;
then while holding the head above the cylinder,
carefully start and finger-tighten all four cap
screws while observing the cylinder O-rings to
make sure they remain in position. Slowly place
the head into position on top of the O-rings. Start
and finger-tighten the remaining cap screws being
very careful not to move the cylinder head.
37. From step 36 in two steps, tighten the 8 mm cap
screws to specifications using the appropriate pat-
tern shown. FC025

500 cc

0738-204 FC024

„NOTE: On the 500 cc after tightening the 8 mm „NOTE: At this point, pressure test the engine
cap screws, tighten the two remaining 6 mm cap (see Section 3).
screws to specifications.
39. On the 600 cc, install the magneto case on the
crankcase accounting for the different-length cap
600 cc screws and the alignment pins. Tighten cap screws
to specifications.

0738-205
38. On the 600 cc, slide the APV assemblies into posi-
tion in the cylinders; then slide the valve keepers
into position and secure with cap screws (coated FC019
with blue Loctite #243). Tighten to specifications.

! CAUTION
The long side of the exhaust valve must be facing
toward the cylinder head or severe engine damage
may occur.

2-81
 FC020 FC080
40. Secure the ignition timing sensor with screws 45. Place the starter pulley in position; then loosely
coated with blue Loctite #243. Tighten to specifi- secure the starter pulley with three cap screws
cations. (coated with red Loctite #271). Secure the pulley
while using the spanner wrench and tighten the
41. Secure the stator plate to the crankcase with the three cap screws evenly to specifications.
Allen-head cap screws coated with blue Loctite
#243 and tightened to specifications; then install
the stator assembly with wires and a grommet into
the crankcase and secure with the Allen-head
screws (coated with blue Loctite #243). Tighten to
specifications.

FC081
46. Using the spanner wrench, tighten the flywheel
cap screw (from step 44) to specifications.

FC018
Installing Engine
42. Install the key in the crankshaft.
„NOTE: Prior to installing the engine, secure the
43. Thread two puller bolts into the flywheel; then
slide the flywheel onto the crankshaft making sure MAG-side mounting bracket and on the 600 cc, the
the keyways match. Remove the puller bolts. upper right mounting bracket to the engine with
cap screws (coated with blue Loctite #243) and
„NOTE: Before installing the flywheel, be sure to tighten to specifications.
wipe the crankshaft and flywheel tapers clean
using a clean towel. 1. Place the engine into the engine compartment and
position it so the water pump coolant hose can be
44. Apply red Loctite #271 to the threads of the fly- installed to the front heat exchanger. Secure with
wheel cap screw; then finger-tighten with a large the hose clamp.
flat washer. DO NOT TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME.

2-82
 500 cc

CM034C 742-240A

„NOTE: If equipped with electric start, insert the

600 cc
flex-drive shaft into the pinion drive and secure
with the two set screws.

2. Place the engine into the mounting position; then

from the PTO-side, tip the engine forward, raise
2
the PTO-side of the engine, and allow the chassis
to support the engine in this position. Connect the
coolant tank hose to the bottom left outlet on the
engine and secure with the hose clamp.

742-238A
5. Install the PTO-side engine mounting bracket to
the engine with cap screws (A) (coated with blue
Loctite #243) and to the front frame with lock nuts
(B). DO NOT TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME.
6. From step 5, tighten the four mounting bracket
plate-to-engine cap screws (A) to specifications;
then tighten the three lock nuts (B) securing the
engine mounting bracket to the front frame (from
step 5) to specifications.
MS382D
„NOTE: On the 600 cc, install the cap screw and
3. Connect all electrical wiring making sure all wir- lock nut (D) securing the engine mounting bracket
ing and coolant hoses are routed properly (as noted to the front lower mounting bracket.
in removing); then place the engine into the
mounting position. 7. Tighten the MAG-side engine cap screw and nut
„NOTE: Secure the wiring harnesses with cable (from step 4) to specifications.
ties (as noted in removing). 8. Connect the oil-injection cable/control rod to the
oil-injection pump and secure.
4. Install the cap screw and nut (C) securing the
MAG-side engine mounting bracket to the side
plate. DO NOT TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME.

CM028A

2-83
 9. Route the oil-supply hose to the pump and secure
with the clamp. Bleed the oil-injection system (see
Section 4).

! CAUTION
Make sure the oil-supply hose is routed properly to
avoid premature wear.

FC051
11. Install the side-plate brace onto the chassis and
secure with the lock nuts and cap screws. Tighten
securely.

CM029A
10. Confirm that the two coolant hoses which run
beneath each exhaust port on the cylinders are
accessible to connect and that the fuel line and oil
pump linkage/cable are connected; then place the
throttle bodies into position and secure with the
flange clamps. Synchronize the oil-injection pump
(see Section 4).

! CAUTION CM070B

When installing the throttle bodies, make sure the

12. After securing the brace, secure the steering sup-
port to the chassis. Tighten to 2.8 kg-m (20 ft-lb).
gasline hose is properly routed to avoid premature
wear and/or contact with exhaust components.

CM004B

FC050A
13. Apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone
sealant to each exhaust port; then install the
exhaust gaskets.
14. Apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone
sealant to the mating surfaces of the exhaust mani-
fold; then install the exhaust manifold and secure
with the nuts. Tighten the nuts to specifications.

2-84
 CM035 CM121A
15. Fill the cooling system (see Liquid Cooling Sys- 19. Check APV cable adjustment. See Arctic Power
tem in Section 3). Valve (APV) System in Section 3.
16. Place the recoil starter into position and secure the „NOTE: Before installing the drive clutch, be sure
starter with the cap screws. Tighten to specifica-
tions.
to wipe both the crankshaft taper and clutch
mounting taper clean using a clean towel. 2
20. Place the drive clutch into position on the crank-
shaft and secure with the cap screw and lock
washer. Tighten to specifications.

! CAUTION
When installing the drive clutch, do not tighten the
clutch cap screw with any kind of impact tool.
Tighten cap screw using a hand torque wrench only.
Failure to do so could result in stationary sheave
damage.

„NOTE: Apply a coat of Anti-Seize Thread Com-

FC052 pound (p/n 0678-146) to the end of the input shaft.
„NOTE: Steps 17-19 are for the 600 cc.
21. Install the alignment washers; then install the
driven pulley on the gear case input shaft. Tighten
17. Slide the APV cable drums into the servomotor the cap screw to 4.4 kg-m (32 ft-lb).
actuator; then place the cable housings into posi-
tion in the servomotor. Secure the cable housings
with the cable retaining cover. ! CAUTION
It is critical that no less than two 1.5 mm (0.060 in.)
washers are in place on the input shaft when install-
ing the driven pulley.

! CAUTION
Do not allow the driven pulley to “float” on the out-
put shaft. Damage to the driven pulley will occur.

CM124A
18. Place the servomotor cover into position; then
secure with two lock nuts.

MS378

2-85
22. Check drive clutch/driven pulley alignment (see
Section 8).

CM038
28. Start the engine and warm up to operating temper-
ature; then verify that all components are function-
MS390
ing properly and that coolant is circulating through
23. Install the drive belt. Check belt deflection. Secure the cooling system properly.
the belt guard.
24. With the air silencer properly positioned on the ! CAUTION
throttle body assembly, secure the silencer with After running the engine to the proper operating tem-
the torx-head cap screw. perature, shut the engine off; then open the hood
and access panels and inspect for any signs of cool-
ant, gasoline, or oil leakage.

! CAUTION
Never run the engine with the hood harness discon-
nected or damage to the electrical system will result.

29. Allow the engine to cool; then check the coolant

level and add coolant as necessary. Verify the
tightening torque of the drive clutch.

! CAUTION
CM026A
If the engine had a major overhaul or if any major
component was replaced, proper engine break-in
25. Install the resonator and secure with three springs; procedures must be followed. If the proper engine
then place the expansion chamber and grafoil gas-
break-in procedures are not followed, severe engine
kets into position and secure to the exhaust mani-
damage may result.
fold and resonator with the springs.
„NOTE: When installing the three exhaust mani-
fold springs, the long hook portion of the spring Engine -
must be attached to the exhaust manifold or pre-
mature spring failure will result.
Crossfire 800/1000 -
M-Series 800/1000
26. Place the hood into position on the front end and
secure with the two pins and the cables.
This engine servicing sub-section has been organized
27. Connect the ignition harness and the hood harness; to show a progression for the complete servicing of the
then connect the air intake connector. Arctic Cat 800 cc/1000 cc (Crossfire/M-Series)
engines. For consistency purposes, this sub-section
shows a complete and thorough progression; however,
for efficiency it may be preferable to remove the
engine as a complete assembly, to remove and disas-
semble only those components which need to be
addressed, and to service only those components.
Also, some components may vary from model to
model. The technician should use discretion and sound
judgment.
„NOTE: Critical torque specifications can be
found on pages 14-17 of this section.

2-86
„NOTE: Some illustrations and photographs used
in this section are used for clarity purposes only
and are not designed to depict actual conditions.

Table of Contents

Removing .............................................................. 2-87

Disassembling....................................................... 2-90
Servicing Top-Side Components........................... 2-95
Cleaning and Inspecting ..................................... 2-101
Measuring Critical Components.......................... 2-104 CM125A
Assembling.......................................................... 2-107
Installing .............................................................. 2-115 „NOTE: If the driven pulley is tight on the input
shaft, pull the driven pulley off using the Driven
Pulley Puller (p/n 0644-460).
Removing Engine
7. Remove the two lock nuts securing the servomotor
and cover; then remove the cover. Using a small
2
„NOTE: Prior to starting the removing procedure, needle-nose pliers, remove the servomotor retain-
disconnect the hood harness and the air intake ing clip and the cable holder.
connector from the air silencer; then remove the
cables and pins securing the hood to the front end,
remove the hood, and remove the left-side and
right-side access panels.

1. Remove all springs and the hairpin clip securing

the expansion chamber and resonator; then remove
these components from the engine compartment.
2. Remove the belt guard; then remove the drive belt
(see Section 8).
3. On the 800 cc using a 1/2-in. 12-point socket,
remove the cap screw and lock washer securing
the drive clutch to the crankshaft. CM126A

4. On the 1000 cc using Drive Clutch Bolt Tool (p/n

0644-281), remove the cap screw and high-collar
washer securing the drive clutch to the crankshaft.
5. Using Clutch Puller (p/n 0644-207) - 800 cc or (p/
n 0644-446) - 1000 cc and an impact wrench or a
breaker bar and Spanner Wrench (p/n 0644-136),
tighten the puller. If the drive clutch will not
release, sharply strike the head of the puller.
Repeat this step until the clutch releases. Remove
the drive clutch.
6. Remove the cap screw from the driven pulley and
slide the driven pulley off the gear case input shaft. CM127
Account for alignment washers.
8. Rotate the servomotor actuator counterclockwise
to loosen the cable; then pull the cable housings
down and out of the servomotor.

2-87
 CM128A CM129A
9. Slide each cable drum out of the slot of the servo- 14. Remove the spark plug wires from the spark plugs;
motor actuator. then on the 800 cc, disconnect the knock sensor
connector.
10. Drain the engine coolant (see Liquid Cooling Sys-
tem - Section 3).
11. Disconnect the ignition harness from the ECU;
then remove the torx-head screw securing the air
silencer to the front end. Remove the silencer.

CM130A
15. Loosen the clamps securing the coolant hoses con-
nected to the throttle bodies; then remove the vent
tube from the top of the cylinder head.

CM026A
12. Pull the air silencer boot forward enough to gain
access to the throttle body assembly.

CM131A

„NOTE: On the 1000 cc, remove the coolant by-

pass hoses from the cylinders.

CM027 16. Move the throttle body assembly to one side out of
13. Loosen the flange clamps securing the throttle the way to a secure position.
body assembly to the flange; then move the throt-
tle body assembly forward to allow room to dis- „NOTE: With the throttle body assembly out of the
connect the oil injection control rod from the oil- way, disconnect the oil hose from the oil pump;
injection pump. then plug the oil hose.

2-88
 CM029A CM135A
17. Remove the recoil starter from the engine. Secure
it out of the way in the engine compartment.

CM136A
20. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the
steering support and the side-plate brace to the
CM137
chassis.
18. Remove the wiring harness wrap; then disconnect
the ignition/main harness connectors and the tem-
perature sensor connector. Secure the harness out
of the way.

CM132A

CM134
19. Disconnect the lower coolant hose from the front
heat exchanger; then remove the remaining cool-
ant hose from the thermostat outlet.

CM133A

2-89
21. Remove the lock nuts (A) and (B) from the cap
screws of the MAG-side engine mounting bracket
and the front lower engine mounting bracket (do
Disassembling Engine
not remove the cap screws at this time).
„NOTE: When disassembling top-side compo-
nents, mark MAG-side and PTO-side components
for assembling purposes.

1. Using the spanner wrench to secure the flywheel,

remove the flywheel cap screw and washer; then
remove the three starter pulley cap screws and
remove the pulley.

742-203B
22. Remove the lock nuts (C) securing the PTO-side
engine mounting bracket to the chassis.
23. Remove the cap screws (D) securing the PTO-side
engine mounting bracket to the engine.
24. Remove the PTO-side engine mounting bracket; CM138
then remove the cap screws (A) and (B) from step
21.
25. Lift the engine out of the engine compartment.
26. Remove the exhaust manifold and engine mount-
ing brackets from the engine. Account for nuts and
gaskets.
27. Remove the clamp securing the coolant supply
hose from the cylinder head to the water pump.
Then remove the hose from the engine.

CM139
2. Install Flywheel Pulley Insert (p/n 0644-179) onto
the end of the crankshaft.

CM181

FC016

2-90
 3. Using Flywheel Puller (p/n 0744-040) or suitable
substitute, remove the flywheel from the crank-
shaft by tightening the puller bolt, striking the
head of the puller bolt with a hammer, and tighten-
ing again. Repeat this procedure until the flywheel
is free. Account for the key.

! CAUTION
To prevent damage to the crankshaft, do not thread
puller bolts more than 12.7 mm (1/2 in.) into the fly-
wheel. Damage to the coils may result.

CM142A
5. Remove the Allen-head cap screw (A) securing
the stator lead wire plate to the crankcase; then
remove the Allen-head cap screws (B) securing
the timing sensors, remove the sensors, and
account for the harness grommets.
2

CM140

„NOTE: To ensure the cleanliness of the flywheel

magnets, place the flywheel (with the magnets fac-
ing upward) on a clean bench.

„NOTE: On the 1000 cc, remove the Allen-head

cap screws securing the magneto case to the
CM141C
crankcase. Account for the alignment pins.
6. Remove the Allen-head cap screws securing the
stator to the stator plate. Route the stator lead wire
out of the crankcase; then remove the stator
assembly.

CM144A
4. Remove the cap screw securing the ground wire to
the crankcase.
CM143A

7. Remove the cap screws securing the stator plate to

the engine; then remove the plate.

2-91
 CM145D CM147

„NOTE: For assembling purposes, note that the 9. Remove the spark plugs.
indentation (A) of the stator plate is aligned with „NOTE: On the 800 cc at this point, remove the
the harness opening (B) in the crankcase. knock sensor and lock plate from the cylinder
head by bending the lock plate tabs down and
unthreading the sensor.

10. Remove the cap screws with O-rings securing the

cylinder head; then separate from the cylinders.
Account for the O-rings.
„NOTE: When removing the cylinders, place the
engine on its intake flanges on a drain tray to allow
residual coolant to drain from the cylinder/crank-
case water jacket.

11. Remove the four nuts and four cap screws secur-
ing the cylinders to the crankcase; then using a soft
CM145C hammer, gently tap the cylinders and remove from
„NOTE: The stator plate screws had Loctite the crankcase by lifting them straight up off their
applied to the threads during assembly. Using an
studs. Account for gasket(s) and alignment pins.
impact driver, apply a sharp blow to the head of
each screw to break the Loctite loose before ! CAUTION
removal. When removing a cylinder, be sure to support the
piston to prevent damage to the crankcase and pis-
8. Remove the cap screws securing the APV assem- ton.
blies to the cylinders; then remove the APV
assemblies and set them aside.
„NOTE: For assembling purposes, note that the
APV exhaust valves and gaskets are directional.

CM148
12. Remove the PTO-side piston-pin circlip from the
PTO-side piston; then remove the MAG-side pis-
ton-pin circlip from the MAG-side piston.
CM146A

2-92
 „NOTE: Place a suitable length of rubber hose
around the connecting rods. This will prevent the
connecting rods from damaging the crankcase.

15. Remove the oil hoses from the intake flanges; then
remove the intake flanges and reed valve assem-
blies.

CM149
13. Using Piston Pin Puller (p/n 0644-328), remove
the piston pins from both pistons.
„NOTE: For proper assembly, keep all MAG-side
components and all PTO-side components sepa-
rated. Assemble them on their proper sides. 2
CM152
16. Remove the lower union cap screw securing the
lower check valve assembly to the crankcase; then
remove the two screws securing the oil-injection
pump to the crankcase. Remove the pump,
retainer, and O-ring and account for the two gas-
kets from the lower union.

CM150

! CAUTION
DO NOT use any type of punch to drive the piston
pin free of the piston; damage may result. Use a pis-
ton-pin puller only.

14. Lift the pistons clear of the connecting rods and

remove the small-end connecting-rod bearings CM153A

(account for two washers); then remove the piston

rings. Keep each piston with its rings; keep each
piston pin and bearing together as a set.

CM154A
17. Remove the four cap screws securing the thermo-
stat cap; then remove the cap, gasket, and thermo-
stat.
CM151

2-93
 21. Turn the engine upside down on support blocks,
cut the cable tie, and remove the coolant tempera-
ture sensor switch.
22. With its bottom side up on two support blocks,
remove the cap screws securing the crankcase
halves.
„NOTE: The end bearings are not pressed onto
the crankshaft.

23. Separate the crankcase halves by installing two

crankcase cap screws in opposite corners leaving
the heads approximately 6 mm (1/4 in.) out. Using
CM155A
a plastic hammer and lifting on the ends of the
„NOTE: For assembling purposes, note that the crankshaft, tap on each cap screw head until the
positioning of the bypass/check valve is directed case halves separate. Remove the cap screws.
up.
! CAUTION
DO NOT drive any tool between halves to separate
the crankcase. Damage to the sealing surfaces will
result.

CM157A
18. Remove the six screws securing the water pump
cover to the crankcase and remove the cover.
Account for the O-ring gasket and the alignment
pins. CM158
24. Lift the bottom half of the crankcase off the top
half.

! CAUTION
Care must be taken to not allow the connecting rods
to drop onto the sealing surface of the bottom case
half.

25. Lift the crankshaft free from the top half of the
crankcase and slide the crankshaft oil seals off the
crankshaft. Account for the C-ring. Remove the
bearing retaining pins and account for the crank-
case dowel pins.
CM156A
19. Remove the cap screw securing the water pump 26. Remove the oil-injection pump/water pump drive-
impeller; then slide the impeller free of the shaft. shaft from the lower crankcase half. Account for
the thrust washer on the outer end of the shaft.
20. Prior to turning the engine upside down on the 800
cc, remove the two crankcase Allen-head cap
screws from the water pump side of the engine;
then remove the two cap screws from the magneto
housing. On the 1000 cc, remove the one crank-
case Allen-head cap screw located above the ther-
mostat housing.

2-94
 Servicing Top-Side
Components

Many services can be performed without removing the

engine. Some components may vary from model to
model. The technician should use discretion and sound
judgment when removing and installing components.
„NOTE: Some photographs used in this sub-sec-
tion are used for clarity purposes only and are not
designed to depict actual conditions.
CM159A

„NOTE: Do not replace the inner seals unless the REMOVING TOP-SIDE
water pump shows signs of leaking coolant out of COMPONENTS
the small bleed hole in the bottom half of the
To access top-side components, use the following pro-
2
crankcase. If a water pump seal is to be replaced,
use the Water Pump Bearing and Seal Kit (p/n cedure:
0644-084).
1. Disconnect the exhaust temperature sensor; then
cut the cable tie securing the sensor harness to the
27. Place the crankcase on the bench with the water APV cable.
pump side down. Using the long seal driver, drive
the mechanical water pump seal from the crank- 2. Remove the expansion chamber and resonator and
case. account for the springs, hairpin clip, and the tab
washer; then remove the exhaust manifold.

FC036
28. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, remove the snap CM186
ring securing the inner seal in the crankcase. 3. Drain the engine coolant (see Liquid Cooling Sys-
tem - Section 3).
29. Using the hooked end of the tool, pull the inner
seal free of the crankcase. 4. Remove the cap screws securing the side-plate
brace and steering support to the chassis; then
30. Using the hooked end of the tool, pry the seal ring remove the side-plate brace.
from the backside of the water pump impeller.

CM133A
AN327D

2-95
 CM132A CM189
5. Remove the cap screws securing the APV assem-
blies to the cylinders; then remove the APV
assemblies and set them aside.
„NOTE: For installing purposes, note that the APV
exhaust valves and gaskets are directional.

CM190
7. Carefully lift and turn the cylinder head to gain
access to the hose clamp securing the coolant hose
to the cylinder head; then loosen the clamp.
Remove the coolant hose and breather hose con-
nected to the cylinder head.
CM187

„NOTE: At this point on the 800 cc, remove the

spark plugs (A) to gain access to the cylinder head
cap screws; then disconnect the knock sensor
plug-in (B).

CM191A

„NOTE: On the 1000 cc, remove the coolant

bypass hoses from the cylinders.

8. Remove the cap screws and nuts securing the cyl-

inders to the crankcase; then using a soft hammer,
CM188A gently tap the cylinders and remove from the
6. Remove the cap screws securing the cylinder crankcase by lifting them straight up off their
head; then lift the front of the head and remove the studs. Account for gasket(s) and alignment pins.
O-rings.

2-96
 ! CAUTION
DO NOT use any type of punch to drive the piston
pin free of the piston; damage may result. Use a pis-
ton-pin puller only.

11. Lift the pistons clear of the connecting rods and

remove the small-end connecting-rod bearings
(account for two washers); then remove the piston
rings. Keep each piston with its rings; keep each
piston pin and bearing together as a set.

CM192

! CAUTION
When removing a cylinder, be sure to support the pis-
ton to prevent damage to the crankcase and piston.

„NOTE: If servicing the MAG-side only, the PTO-

side cylinder must be removed.
2
„NOTE: After the cylinders have been removed, it
is advisable to cover the crankcase to avoid com-
ponents falling into the crankcase.
CM151
9. Remove the PTO-side piston-pin circlip from the
PTO-side piston; then remove the PTO-side pis- „NOTE: Place a suitable length of rubber hose
ton-pin circlip from the MAG-side piston. around the connecting rods. This will prevent the
connecting rods from damaging the crankcase.
10. Using Piston Pin Puller (p/n 0644-328) and
Medium Extractor Nut (p/n 0643-074), remove the „NOTE: For servicing procedures, see Cleaning
piston pins from both pistons. and Inspecting Engine and Measuring Critical
Components in this sub-section.

INSTALLING TOP-SIDE
COMPONENTS

„NOTE: Critical torque specifications are located

in the Assembly Schematics sub-section of this
section.

1. Place the cylinder base gasket and alignment pins

into position on the crankcase.
2. Install the piston rings on each piston so the letter
CM193
on the top (inclined surface) of each ring faces the
dome of the piston.
„NOTE: The piston pins must be removed from the
PTO-side of the piston.

! CAUTION
Do not use the large extractor nut to remove the pin
or damage to the piston may occur.

„NOTE: For proper assembly, keep all MAG-side

components and all PTO-side components sepa-
rated. Assemble them on their proper sides.

2-97
 726-306A CM194A

! CAUTION 5. Install the new circlips so the open end is directed

either up or down.
Incorrect installation of the piston rings will result in
engine damage.

3. Apply oil to the connecting-rod small end bear-

ings; then install the small-end bearings. Install a
washer on each side of the connecting rod.
„NOTE: The shoulder side of the washer must
seat to the needle bearing.

CM195B

! CAUTION
Make sure the circlips are firmly seated and the open
end is directed either up or down before continuing
with assembly.

6. Rotate each piston ring until the ring ends are

properly positioned on either side of the ring
CM172A keeper; then apply oil to the piston assemblies and
„NOTE: Prior to installing the pistons, make sure cylinder bores. Remove the rubber hoses from the
connecting rods.
to install the MAG-side piston pin circlips first.
7. In turn on each cylinder, place a piston holder (or
4. Place each piston over the connecting rod so the suitable substitute) beneath the piston skirt and
indicator dot on each piston will point toward the square the piston in respect to the crankcase; then
intake/exhaust ports; then secure with an oiled pis- using a ring compressor or the fingers, compress
ton pin. the rings and slide the cylinder over the piston.
Remove the piston holder and seat the cylinder
„NOTE: The indicator dot (A) is found on the pis-
firmly onto the crankcase.
ton dome.
! CAUTION
The cylinders should slide on easily. DO NOT force
the pistons into the cylinders.

2-98
 11. Secure the cylinders (from step 8) by tightening
the cylinder base nuts and cap screws to specifica-
tions in three steps using the appropriate pattern
shown.

800 cc

CM192
8. Secure each cylinder by installing the four nuts
and four cap screws. DO NOT TIGHTEN AT
THIS TIME.

2
„NOTE: Never reuse cylinder cap screws. Always 0738-206

replace with new cap screws.

1000 cc
„NOTE: The cylinders will be tightened after the
exhaust manifold is installed to assure proper cyl-
inder to exhaust manifold alignment.

9. Apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone

sealant to each exhaust port; then install the
exhaust gaskets.

0738-220
12. Install the hose clamp onto the cylinder head cool-
ant hose with the clamp screw directed outward
(toward the PTO-side of the engine).

CM196
10. Apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone
sealant to the mating surfaces of the exhaust mani-
fold; then install the exhaust manifold and secure
with eight nuts. Tighten the nuts in a crisscross
pattern to specifications.

CM199A
13. Install the coolant hose and secure the hose onto
the cylinder head; then install the coolant bypass
hose onto the head.
„NOTE: On the 1000 cc, install the coolant bypass
hoses onto the cylinders.

„NOTE: After the coolant hose has been secured

to the cylinder head, secure the cylinder head up
and out of the way of the cylinder to allow the cyl-
inder O-rings to be installed.
0742-292

2-99
 16. Start the remaining cap screws being very careful
not to move the cylinder head. ONLY FINGER-
TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME; then tighten the cap
screws in two steps to specifications using the
appropriate pattern shown.

800 cc

CM191
14. Install the two cylinder O-rings on the top of each
cylinder making sure they are correctly positioned
in the grooves.

0742-200

1000 cc

FC077
15. Place new O-rings onto each of the head cap
screws. Place four of these cap screws (from oppo- 0742-199
site end of each other) into the cylinder head. 17. On the 800 cc, install the spark plugs and on both
Thread the spark plugs in part way; then while models, tighten the spark plugs to specifications;
holding the head above the cylinder, carefully start then install the spark plug wires.
all four cap screws while observing the cylinder
O-rings to make sure they remain in position. „NOTE: On the 800 cc, connect the knock sensor
Slowly place the head into position on top of the plug-in.
O-rings.
18. With the raised edge (A) of the bottom of the valve
aligned with the channel (B) of the cylinder, install
the APV’s onto the cylinder and secure with the
cap screws. Tighten to specifications.

CM175

„NOTE: On the 800 cc prior to starting the remain-

ing cap screws, the spark plugs must be removed.
CM147A
19. Install the side-plate brace; then secure with exist-
ing hardware.

2-100
„NOTE: It is advisable to install the two front lower 24. Allow the engine to cool; then check the coolant
cap screws first to attain proper alignment for the level and add coolant as necessary.
remaining cap screws.
! CAUTION
If the engine had a major overhaul or if any major
component was replaced, proper engine break-in
procedures must be followed. If the proper engine
break-in procedures are not followed, severe engine
damage may result.

25. Install the skid plate.

Cleaning and Inspecting

Engine
CM133B
20. With the throttle body coolant hose secured to the
water pump, fill the cooling system with recom-
„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is 2
mended coolant (see Liquid Cooling System in necessary.
Section 3).
CYLINDER HEAD

1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove

any carbon buildup from the combustion chambers
being careful not to nick, scrape, or damage the
combustion chambers or the sealing surfaces.
2. Inspect the spark-plug holes for any damaged
threads. Repair damaged threads using a heli-coil
insert.
3. Inspect the cylinder head for flatness using a
straightedge and a feeler gauge. Acceptable
warpage must not exceed 0.05 mm (0.002 in.).
CM201A
„NOTE: If the warpage exceeds specification,
21. Install the expansion chamber and resonator using resurface the cylinder head using procedures
existing hardware. identified in step 4.
22. Install and secure the left-side and right-side
access panels and the hood.
23. Start the engine and warm up to operating temper-
ature; then verify that all components are function-
ing properly and that coolant is circulating through
the cooling system properly.

! CAUTION
Never run the engine with the hood harness discon-
nected or damage to the electrical system will result.

! CAUTION
After running the engine to the proper operating tem- FS270

perature, shut the engine off; then open the hood

and remove access panels and inspect for any signs
of coolant, gasoline, or oil leakage.

2-101
 4. Place the cylinder heads on a Surface Plate (p/n 2. Take an old piston ring and snap it into two pieces;
0644-016) covered with #400 grit wet-or-dry then grind the end of the old ring to a 45° angle
sandpaper. Using light pressure, move each cylin- and to a sharp edge. Using the sharpened ring as a
der head in a figure eight motion. Inspect the seal- tool, clean carbon from the ring-grooves. Be sure
ing surface for any indication of high spots. A high to position the ring with its tapered side up.
spot can be noted by a bright metallic finish. Cor-
rect any high spots before assembly by continuing ! CAUTION
to move the cylinder head in a figure eight motion
until a uniform bright metallic finish is attained. Improper cleaning of the ring-grooves by the use of
the wrong type of ring-groove cleaner will result in
! CAUTION severe damage to the piston.

Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in 3. Inspect each piston for cracks in the piston pin and
conjunction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or dam- skirt areas.
age to the sealing surface may result.
4. Inspect each piston for seizure marks or scuffing.
CYLINDERS Repair with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and
water or honing oil.
1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove
carbon buildup from the exhaust ports.
2. Wash the cylinders in parts-cleaning solvent.
3. Inspect the cylinders for pitting, scoring, scuffing,
and corrosion. If marks are found, repair the sur-
face with an appropriate ball hone and honing oil
(see chart).

BALL HONES
Engine Size p/n
800 cc 0644-293
1000 cc 0644-294 AN135

„NOTE: To produce the proper 60° crosshatch pat- „NOTE: If scuffing or seizure marks are too deep
tern, use a low RPM drill (600 RPM) at the rate of 30 to correct with the sandpaper, it will be necessary
strokes per minute. If honing oil is not available, to replace the piston.
use a lightweight, petroleum-based oil. Thoroughly
clean the cylinders after honing using detergent 5. Inspect the perimeter of each piston for signs of
soap and hot water and dry with compressed air; excessive “blowby.” Excessive “blowby” indicates
then immediately apply oil to the cylinder bores. If worn piston rings or an out-of-round cylinder.
a bore is severely damaged or gouged, the cylin- CRANKCASE
der will have to be replaced.
1. Wash the crankcase halves in parts-cleaning sol-
4. Place the head surface of each cylinder on the sur- vent.
face plate covered with #400 grit wet-or-dry sand-
paper. Using light pressure, move each cylinder in „NOTE: Before washing the crankcase halves,
a figure eight motion. Inspect the surface for any make sure the four bearing dowel pins have been
indication of high spots. A high spot can be noted removed and accounted for.
by a bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots
before assembly by continuing to move the cylin- 2. Inspect the crankcase halves for scoring, pitting,
der in a figure eight motion until a uniform bright scuffing, or any imperfections in the casting.
metallic finish is attained.
3. Inspect all threaded areas for damaged or stripped
! CAUTION threads.
Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in 4. Inspect the bearing areas for cracks or excessive
conjunction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or dam- bearing movement. If evidence of excessive bear-
age to the sealing surface may result. ing movement is noted, repair by peening the bear-
ing area in a pinking (sawtooth) pattern.
PISTON ASSEMBLY
5. Inspect the bearing dowel pins for wear.
1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove
the carbon buildup from the dome of each piston.

2-102
 6. Inspect the sealing surfaces of the crankcase
halves for trueness by placing each crankcase half
on the surface plate covered with #400 grit wet-or-
dry sandpaper. Using light pressure, move each
half in a figure eight motion. Inspect the sealing
surfaces for any indication of high spots. A high
spot can be noted by a bright metallic finish. Cor-
rect any high spots by continuing to move the half
in a figure eight motion until a uniform bright
metallic finish is attained.
„NOTE: Care must be taken not to remove an
excessive amount of aluminum, or the crankcase
will have to be replaced. If excessive aluminum is FC039
removed, too much pre-load will be exerted on the
3. Inspect the connecting-rod bearings by rotating
crankshaft bearings when assembled. them. The bearings must rotate freely and must not
bind or feel rough. If a connecting-rod bearing
must be replaced, the connecting rod and crank pin
must also be replaced.
2

CM160

! CAUTION
Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in FC040
conjunction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or dam- 4. Inspect the oil-injection pump drive gear for any
age to the sealing surface may result. signs of worn or chipped teeth. If either condition
exists, replace the gear.
CRANKSHAFT
„NOTE: Lubricate bearings thoroughly prior to
„NOTE: If any servicing of the connecting rods, assembly.
center bearings, or oil-injection pump drive gear is
REMOVING/INSTALLING OUTER
necessary, Arctic Cat recommends that the crank-
shaft be taken to a qualified machine shop for that CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS
service.
„NOTE: The end bearings are not pressed onto
the crankshaft. The bearings can be removed sim-
1. Wash the crankshaft with bearings in parts-clean-
ing solvent. ply by sliding them off the crankshaft.

2. Inspect the bearings for wear, scoring, scuffing,

damage, or discoloration. Rotate the bearings.
Bearings must rotate freely and must not bind or
feel rough. If any abnormal condition is noted,
replace the bearing.

CM161

2-103
Inspect the crankshaft bearing area for wear. If any
wear is noted on either end, replace the crankshaft end.
„NOTE: Install the bearings by sliding each bear-
ing onto the crankshaft making sure the dowel-pin
hole in the outer race is properly positioned and
will align with its hole and pin in the crankcase.

CM163
4. Inspect the reed-to-seat clearance. Using a feeler
gauge, measure the clearance. Clearance must be
less than 0.20 mm (0.008 in.). If clearance is not
within specifications, replace the reed valve.
5. To assemble, place the reed valves on the cage
with its clipped corner positioned to the lower
CM161 right hand corner of the cage. Place the reed stop-
per assembly into position and secure with the
REED VALVE ASSEMBLY screws coated with red Loctite #271.

1. Inspect the reed valves, stoppers, and valve blocks

for cracks or any deterioration.

CM164A

CM162 Measuring Critical

2. Wash the reed valves, stopper, and cage assembly Components
in parts-cleaning solvent and blow dry.
3. Inspect the reed stopper height. Using a caliper, „NOTE: Critical engine specifications charts can
measure the distance from the seat to the bottom be found at the beginning of this section.
outer tip edge of the stopper. Measurement must
not exceed specifications. If measurement is not CYLINDER HEAD VOLUME
within specifications, either bend or replace the (Squish-Gap Method)
reed stopper.
To check the squish gap, a micrometer and a heavy
piece of solder will be needed.
1. Remove the spark plugs from the engine.
2. Insert the solder piece down through the spark
plug hole and push it up against the inner cylinder
bore towards the MAG-side of the engine.
3. Pull the recoil rope and crank the engine over sev-
eral times while the solder is being held firmly in
place.

2-104
 4. Remove the solder from the cylinder. Using the
micrometer, measure the very end of the squeezed
solder piece. Record the reading.
„NOTE: If the solder hasn’t been squeezed by the
piston, a larger piece of solder must be used.
Repeat procedure.

5. Using the opposite end of the solder piece, insert it

down through the spark plug hole towards the
PTO-side of the engine. Push on the solder until it
contacts the inner cylinder bore.
6. Pull the recoil rope and crank the engine over sev- 0725-586
eral times. Remove the solder from the cylinder
and measure the squeezed end with a micrometer.
Record reading and refer to the chart. PISTON SKIRT/CYLINDER
CLEARANCE
„NOTE: Measure from PTO to MAG-side of the pis-
ton to accurately measure the squish gap. Never
measure across piston, exhaust to carburetor
1. Measure each cylinder front to back about 2.5 cm
(1 in.) from the bottom of each cylinder. 2
side, as the piston will rock and the reading won’t
be accurate. 2. Measure the corresponding piston skirt diameter at a
point 1 cm (0.394 in.) above the piston skirt at a
Readings may vary from side to side. Make sure the right angle to the piston-pin bore. Subtract this mea-
smaller reading is within the specifications listed. surement from the measurement in step 1. The dif-
ference (clearance) must be within specifications.
CYLINDER TRUENESS

1. Measure each cylinder in the three locations from

front to back and side to side for a total of six read-
ings.

AC091

PISTON-RING END GAP

1. Place each piston ring in the wear portion above the

FC044 exhaust port of its respective cylinder. Use the pis-
2. The trueness (out-of-roundness) is the difference ton to position each ring squarely in each cylinder.
between the highest and lowest reading. Maxi- 2. Using a feeler gauge, measure each piston-ring
mum trueness (out-of-roundness) must not exceed end gap. Acceptable ring end gap must be within
specifications. specifications.

2-105
 CONNECTING-ROD SMALL END
BORE

1. Insert a snap gauge into each connecting-rod small

end bore; then remove the gauge and measure it
with a micrometer.

FC045

PISTON PIN AND PISTON-PIN

BORE

1. Measure the piston pin diameter at each end and in

the center. Acceptable piston pin measurement
must be within specifications. If any measurement AN061

varies by more than 0.02 mm (0.001 in.), the pis- 2. The diameter measurement must be within specifi-
ton pin and bearing must be replaced as a set. cations.
CRANKSHAFT RUNOUT

1. Using the V Blocks (p/n 0644-022), support the

crankshaft on the surface plate.
„NOTE: The V blocks should support the crank-
shaft on the outer bearings.

2. Mount a dial indicator and base on the surface

plate. Position the indicator contact point against
the crankshaft location point F (PTO-end) from the
crankshaft end. Zero the indicator and rotate the
crankshaft slowly. Note the amount of crankshaft
AN056 runout (total indicator reading).
2. Insert a snap gauge into each piston-pin bore; then „NOTE: For runout location point specifications,
remove the gauge and measure it with a microme- see Crankshaft Runout Specifications chart on
ter. The diameter measurement must be within page 19 of this section.
specifications. Take two measurements to ensure
accuracy. 3. Position the indicator contact point against the
crankshaft location point D (MAG-end) from the
crankshaft end. Zero the indicator and rotate the
crankshaft slowly. Note the amount of crankshaft
runout (total indicator reading).

AC092

FC046

2-106
 4. Position the indicator contact point against the 4. Using the seal driver, carefully install the outer
crankshaft at location point E (center). Zero the water pump seal. Gently tap the seal down into
indicator and rotate the crankshaft slowly. Note position until it seats itself against its flange.
the amount of crankshaft runout (total indicator
reading).
5. If runout exceeds specifications at any of the
checkpoints, the crankshaft must be either
straightened or replaced.

Assembling Engine

„NOTE: The use of new gaskets and seals is rec-

ommended when assembling the engine.

„NOTE: When the use of a lubricant is indicated, MS988

2
use Arctic Cat Synthetic APV 2-Cycle Oil. 5. Apply a thin coat of grease to the sealing surface
of the oil-injection pump/water pump driveshaft;
1. Apply a thin coat of grease to the inner seal lips of then place the Oil Seal Protector Tool (p/n 0644-
the water pump seal. 219) at the end of the shaft. Twist the driveshaft
clockwise as it is pushed through the oil and water
2. Using the seal driver, position the inner water pump seals; then remove the tool.
pump shaft seal onto the seal driver and gently tap
the seal down into position.
! CAUTION
„NOTE: Grease must be applied to the lips of the Be very careful not to damage the seals when
inner seal before installation. installing the oil pump driveshaft. Be certain to use
the seal protector tool. Twist the driveshaft clock-
wise as it enters the seal area and while it is being
pushed through the seals.

MS986A

„NOTE: The seal must be installed with its spring

side towards the crankshaft.
FS191

3. Install the snap ring securing the inner seal in the 6. Position the shim on the oil-injection pump end of
crankcase. the driveshaft.

MS415 CM159A

2-107
 7. Secure the upper crankcase half upside-down on a
suitable support; then install the C-ring (A), the
four bearing retaining pins (B), and the two crank-
case dowel pins (C).

CM045A

„ NOTE: To check the bearing for proper position,

place the point of a sharp tool into the dimple
found in the bearing race. Strike the tool with the
CM165C palm of the hand in either direction. If the bearing
8. Place the crankshaft end bearings into position moves, it isn’t positioned correctly and must be
making sure the bearing retaining pin hole is posi- rotated until it drops onto the dowel pin.
tioned inward.
„NOTE: The bearing retaining pin hole is the hole
! CAUTION
that does not go entirely through the bearing case. If the bearings are not properly seated during
assembly, the crankcase halves will not seal tightly
and severe engine damage will result.

11. Position the two center seal rings with their end
gaps 180° apart (up on one and down on the
other); then apply a thin coat of High-Temp Seal-
ant (p/n 0636-069) to the entire bottom half of the
crankcase sealing surface.

CM043A
9. Lubricate the inner lips of the crankshaft oil seals
with grease; then slide the seals onto the crank-
shaft making sure the spring side of each seal faces
inward.
„NOTE: There is a MAG-side seal and a PTO-side
seal.
CM036A
10. Apply oil to the crankshaft bearings; then install
the crankshaft into the upper crankcase half. Be
sure the alignment hole in each bearing is posi-
tioned over its respective dowel pin in the crank-
case; then seat the crankshaft.

CM166

2-108
„NOTE: Use only Arctic Cat High-Temp Sealant (p/
n 0636-069) to seal the crankcase halves.

12. Assemble the crankcase halves making sure that

the crankshaft gear and oil-injection pump drive-
shaft gears mesh. Rotate the crankshaft one full
turn to align the crankshaft gear and pump drive-
shaft.
13. Install the crankcase cap screws securing the
crankcase halves.
14. Tighten cap screws (1-10) in three steps to specifi-
cations using the appropriate pattern shown.
FC082
18. Install the O-ring and the oil-injection pump mak-
800 cc ing sure the pump shaft slot (A) and pump driven
gear shaft (B) align. Secure with two screws
(coated with blue Loctite #243). Tighten the two
screws to specifications.
2

742-198A

1000 cc

CM167A

! CAUTION
Be sure the oil-injection pump/water pump drive-
shaft is properly aligned with the slot of the oil-injec-
tion pump. The pump will be damaged if these two
components are not aligned.

742-197A
19. Install the oil-injection hoses and secure with the
15. On the 800 cc, tighten cap screw (11) in three steps clamps; then place the lower union assembly into
to specifications; then turn the engine right-side up position and secure with new gaskets and union
and tighten cap screws (12-15) in three steps to cap screw. Tighten to specifications.
specifications.
16. On the 1000 cc, tighten cap screws (11-13) in three
steps to specifications; then tighten cap screw (14)
in three steps to specifications.
„NOTE: Secure the connecting rods with rubber
hoses.

17. Install the oil-injection pump retainer with a new

O-ring.

2-109
 CM153A CM169

! CAUTION 24. Place the impeller into position and secure with a
cap screw and washer. Be sure the rubber side of
Always use new gaskets and assure that a gasket is the washer is directed toward the impeller. Apply
in place on each side of the union prior to securing blue Loctite #243 to the threads of the cap screw
the union cap screw to the crankcase. and tighten to specifications.
20. Secure the intake flanges, reed valve assemblies,
and gaskets with cap screws; then in a crisscross ! CAUTION
pattern, tighten to specifications. The rubber side of the washer, which secures the
impeller, must be positioned toward the impeller. If
21. Install the coolant temperature sensor and tighten installed incorrectly, a coolant leak will result.
securely; then secure the sensor wire to the sensor
with a cable tie. 25. Apply high-temperature sealant to the crankcase/
water pump cover seam; then install the dowel
pins into the crankcase.

CM172
22. Position the ceramic/rubber seal into the back side
of the water pump impeller with the ceramic face CM171A
of the seal directed out.

CM171B

CM168 „NOTE: Sealant is only required on the crankcase

23. Using both thumbs, press the seal into position seam.
making sure its marked side is positioned towards
the rubber seal cup; then apply a thin coat of
grease to the seal outer surface.

2-110
26. Apply a thin film of low-temp grease to the water
pump cover O-ring; then position the O-ring into
the water pump cover. With the alignment pins in
place, install the cover. Secure with seven screws
using the pattern shown. Tighten to specifications.

726-306A

! CAUTION
Incorrect installation of the piston rings will result in
engine damage.
0742-257
27. With the bypass valve of the thermostat directed to
30. Apply oil to the connecting-rod small end bear-
ings; then install the small-end bearings. Install a
2
the 12 o’clock position, install the thermostat and washer on each side of the connecting rod.
housing; then in a crisscross pattern, tighten the
cap screws to specifications. „NOTE: The shoulder side of the washer must
seat to the needle bearing.

CM157A
CM172A
31. Place each piston over the connecting rod so the
indicator dot on each piston will point toward the
intake/exhaust ports; then secure with an oiled pis-
ton pin.
„NOTE: The indicator dot is found on the piston
dome.

CM155A
28. Install the dowel pins into the crankcase; then
place the cylinder base gasket into position on the
crankcase.
29. Install the piston rings on each piston so the letter
on the top (inclined surface) of each ring faces the
dome of the piston.
CM173
32. Install the new circlips so the open end is directed
either up or down.

2-111
 800 cc

CM174 0738-206

! CAUTION 1000 cc
Make sure the circlips are firmly seated and the open
end is directed either up or down before continuing
with assembly.

33. Rotate each piston ring until the ring ends are
properly positioned on either side of the ring
keeper; then apply oil to the piston assemblies and
cylinder bores. Remove the rubber hoses from the
connecting rods.
34. In turn on each cylinder, place a piston holder (or
suitable substitute) beneath the piston skirt and
square the piston in respect to the crankcase; then 0738-220

using a ring compressor or the fingers, compress 37. Install the two cylinder O-rings on the top of each
the rings and slide the cylinder over the piston. cylinder making sure they are correctly positioned
Remove the piston holder and seat the cylinder in the grooves.
firmly onto the crankcase.
„NOTE: The cylinders should slide on easily. DO
NOT force the pistons into the cylinders.

FC077
38. Place new O-rings onto each of the head cap
screws. Place four of these cap screws (from oppo-
site end of each other) into the cylinder head.
CM148 Thread the spark plugs in part way; then while
35. Secure each cylinder by installing the four nuts holding the head above the cylinder, carefully start
and four new cap screws. DO NOT TIGHTEN AT and finger-tighten all four cap screws while observ-
THIS TIME. ing the cylinder O-rings to make sure they remain
in position. Slowly place the head into position on
„NOTE: Always use new cap screws when install- top of the O-rings.
ing the cylinders.

36. Secure the cylinders (from step 35) by tightening

the cylinder base nuts and cap screws to specifica-
tions in three steps using the appropriate pattern
shown.

2-112
 CM175 CM204

„NOTE: On the 800 cc prior to starting the remain- „NOTE: At this point, pressure test the engine
ing cap screws, the spark plugs must be removed. (see Section 3).

39. Start and finger-tighten the remaining cap screws 41. Secure the stator plate to the crankcase with the
being very careful not to move the cylinder head;
then tighten the cap screws in two steps to specifi-
Allen-head cap screws (coated with blue Loctite
#243) and tightened to specifications.
2
cations using the appropriate pattern shown.
42. Route the stator harness through the opening in the
crankcase; then secure the stator to the stator plate
800 cc with the Allen-head cap screws (coated with blue
Loctite #243). Tighten to specifications.

0742-200

1000 cc

CM143A
43. Secure the upper ignition timing sensor with cap
screws (coated with blue Loctite #243). Tighten
securely; then install the wiring grommet into the
notch of the crankcase.

0742-199

„NOTE: At this point on the 800 cc, install the

spark plugs and on both models, tighten the spark
plugs to specifications; then on the 800 cc, install
the knock sensor with the lock plate, tighten the
sensor securely, and bend the lock plate tabs up.

40. With the raised edge of the valve aligned with the
channel of the cylinder, slide the APV assemblies CM176A

into position in the cylinders; then secure with cap

screws (coated with blue Loctite #243). Tighten to
specifications.

2-113
44. Secure the lower ignition timing sensor with two
cap screws (A) (coated with blue Loctite #243).
Tighten securely; then install the grommet. With
the stator harness properly positioned, install the
plate and cap screw (B) (coated with blue Loctite
#243). Tighten securely.

FC080
48. Secure the starter pulley while using the spanner
wrench and tighten the three cap screws (from step
46) evenly to specifications.

CM177A
45. Install the key in the crankshaft.
46. Place the starter pulley in position on the flywheel;
then loosely secure the starter pulley with three
cap screws (coated with red Loctite #243). While
holding the starter pulley, slide the flywheel onto
the crankshaft making sure the keyways match.

FC081
49. Using the spanner wrench, tighten the flywheel
cap screw (from step 47) to specifications.
„NOTE: On the 1000 cc with alignment pins in
place, install the magneto case on the crankcase
accounting for the different-sized cap screws and
the alignment pins. Tighten cap screws to specifi-
cations.

CM180

„NOTE: Before installing the flywheel, be sure to

wipe the crankshaft and flywheel tapers clean
using a clean towel.

47. Apply red Loctite #271 to the threads of the fly-

wheel cap screw; then finger-tighten with a large
flat washer. DO NOT TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME.

CM144A
50. Install the coolant inlet hose to the cylinder head
and water pump; then tighten the hose clamps
securely.

2-114
 CM181

742-203B
4. Attach the water pump coolant hose to the front
Installing Engine heat exchanger. Secure with the hose clamp.

1. Install the MAG-side engine mounting bracket to

the engine with cap screws (coated with blue Loc-
2
tite #243). Tighten to specifications.

CM135A
5. Raise the PTO-side of the engine and support the
engine in this position. Connect the coolant tank
hose to the bottom left outlet on the engine and
CM182A secure with the hose clamp.
2. Install the front lower engine mounting bracket to
the engine with cap screws (coated with blue Loc-
tite #243). Tighten to specifications.

CM136A
6. With the torque bumper positioned against the
gear case, install PTO-side engine mounting
CM200A bracket to the engine with cap screws (coated with
blue Loctite #243) and to the chassis with lock
3. Place the engine in position in the chassis; then nuts. DO NOT TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME.
install the cap screw and lock nut (A) and (B)
securing the MAG-side engine mounting bracket 7. From step 6, tighten the PTO-side mounting
and the front lower engine mounting bracket to the bracket-to-engine cap screws (D) to specifications;
chassis. DO NOT TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME. then tighten the lock nuts (C) securing the mount-
ing bracket to the chassis (from step 6) to specifi-
cations.

2-115
 8. Tighten the MAG-side engine mounting bracket-
to-chassis cap screw and lock nut (A) (from step 3)
and the front lower mounting bracket cap screw
and lock nut (B) (from step 3) to specifications.
9. Connect all electrical wiring harness plug-ins
making sure all wiring and coolant hoses are
routed properly as noted in removing; then install
the wiring harness wrap.
„NOTE: Use cable ties to secure the wiring har-
nesses as necessary.

10. Place the recoil starter into position and secure the
starter with five cap screws (coated with blue Loc- CM028A

tite #243). Tighten (in a crisscross pattern) to spec- 13. Route the oil-supply hose through the hole in the
ifications. chassis with the rubber grommet and to the oil
pump. Secure with the clamp.

CM137
11. Tighten the spark plugs to specifications; then con- CM131B

nect the plug wires and on the 800 cc, the knock „NOTE: After securing the oil-supply hose to the
sensor plug-in. oil pump, remove the bleed screw to allow any air
in the hose/pump to be released.

CM130A
12. If removed, connect the oil-injection control rod to CM184A
the oil-injection pump and secure.
„NOTE: Confirm that the two coolant hoses which
run to the throttle bodies are accessible to connect
and that the fuel line and oil pump linkage are
accessible.

2-116
14. Place the throttle bodies into position and secure
with the flange clamps. Verify oil-injection pump
synchronization (see Section 4); then connect the
fuel line to the throttle body assembly and tighten
the clamp securely.

! CAUTION
When installing the throttle bodies, make sure the
gasline hose is properly routed to avoid premature
wear and/or contact with exhaust components.

CM026A
18. Install the side-plate brace onto the chassis and
secure the brace and the steering support with the
cap screws (coated with blue Loctite #243).
Tighten securely.
2

FC051
15. Install the oil pump linkage arm to the throttle
body pulley.

CM132A

CM129B
16. Connect the two coolant hoses to the throttle body
assembly; then secure with the clamps.

CM133A

„NOTE: It is advisable to install the two front lower

cap screws first to attain proper alignment for the
remaining cap screws.

CM131A
17. With the air silencer boot properly positioned on
the throttle body assembly, install the silencer and
secure with the hold-down and the torx-head cap
screw.

2-117
 CM133B CM121A
19. Apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone 24. Check APV cable adjustment. See Arctic Power
sealant to each exhaust port; then install the Valve (APV) System in Section 3.
exhaust gaskets.
„NOTE: Before installing the drive clutch, be sure
20. Apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone to wipe both the crankshaft taper and clutch
sealant to the mating surfaces of the exhaust mani- mounting taper clean using a clean towel.
fold; then install the exhaust manifold and secure
with the eight nuts. Tighten the nuts in a crisscross 25. Place the drive clutch into position on the crank-
pattern to specifications. shaft and secure with the cap screw and lock
washer. Tighten to specifications.
21. Slide the APV cable drums into the servomotor
actuator; then place the cable housings into posi- „NOTE: On the 1000 cc to aid in proper tightening
tion in the servomotor. Secure the cable housings of the drive clutch cap screw, apply oil to the
with the cable holder. threads of the cap screw prior to installing.

! CAUTION
When installing the drive clutch, do not tighten the
clutch cap screw with any kind of impact tool.
Tighten cap screw using a hand torque wrench only.
Failure to do so could result in stationary sheave
damage.

26. Install the alignment washers; then install the

driven pulley on the gear case input shaft. Tighten
the cap screw to 4.4 kg-m (32 ft-lb).

CM127 ! CAUTION
22. Rotate the servomotor clockwise to remove any It is critical that no less than two 1.5 mm (0.060 in.)
slack from the cables; then install the servomotor washers are in place on the input shaft when install-
retaining clip. ing the driven pulley.

CM185 CM125A
23. Place the servomotor cover into position; then 27. Check drive clutch/driven pulley alignment (see
secure with two lock nuts. Section 8).

2-118
 MS390 CM038
28. Install the drive belt. Check belt deflection. Secure 33. Start the engine and warm up to operating temper-
the belt guard. ature; then verify that all components are function-
ing properly and that coolant is circulating through
29. Install the resonator and secure with the hairpin the cooling system properly.
clip and springs; then place the expansion chamber
and grafoil gaskets into position and secure to the
exhaust manifold and resonator with the springs. ! CAUTION 2
After running the engine to the proper operating tem-
„NOTE: When installing the four exhaust manifold perature, shut the engine off; then open the hood
springs, the long hook portion of the spring must and access panels and inspect for any signs of cool-
be attached to the exhaust manifold or premature ant, gasoline, or oil leakage.
spring failure will result.

30. Fill the cooling system (see Liquid Cooling Sys- ! CAUTION
tem in Section 3).
Never run the engine with the hood harness discon-
31. Place the hood into position on the front end and nected or damage to the electrical system will result.
secure with the two pins and the cables.
34. Allow the engine to cool; then check the coolant
32. Connect the ignition harness to the ECU and the level and add coolant as necessary. Verify the
hood harness to the main harness; then connect the tightening torque of the drive clutch.
air intake connector.
! CAUTION
If the engine had a major overhaul or if any major
component was replaced, proper engine break-in
procedures must be followed. If the proper engine
break-in procedures are not followed, severe engine
damage may result.

2-119
 3. Remove the hairpin clip and all springs securing
Engine - the expansion chamber and resonator; then remove
these components from the engine compartment.
F-Series 500/600 Account for the two exhaust gaskets.
„NOTE: On the LXR, disconnect the negative
This engine servicing sub-section has been organized cable from the battery.
to show a progression for the complete servicing of the
Arctic Cat 500 cc/600 cc (F-Series) engines. For con- 4. With the seat adjusted to its lowest position,
sistency purposes, this sub-section shows a complete remove the self-tapping screw from the right-side
and thorough progression; however, for efficiency it seat adjustment track; then remove the seat.
may be preferable to remove the engine as a complete
assembly, to remove and disassemble only those com-
ponents which need to be addressed, and to service
only those components. Also, some components may
vary from model to model. The technician should use
discretion and sound judgment.
„NOTE: Critical torque specifications can be
found on pages 10-13 of this section.

„NOTE: Some illustrations and photographs used

in this section are used for clarity purposes only
and are not designed to depict actual conditions.

ZJ100A

Table of Contents 5. Remove the torx-head screws securing the handle-

bar close-off panel; then remove the panel.
Removing ............................................................ 2-120 6. Remove the lock nuts and torx-head cap screws
Disassembling..................................................... 2-124 (A) securing the right-side front and rear spar pan-
Cleaning and Inspecting ..................................... 2-129 els; then remove the torx-head screws (D) securing
Measuring Critical Components.......................... 2-132 the left-side rear spar panel to the gas tank and
Assembling.......................................................... 2-135
support tube.
Installing .............................................................. 2-142

Removing Engine

1. Remove the hood and the left-side and right-side

access panels; then remove the torx-head screws
securing the console.

742-207A

„NOTE: The right-side rear spar panel will remain

secured to the chassis.

7. Remove the cap screw located directly above the

ECU securing the air-silencer duct to the front
upper panel; then disconnect the air temperature
sensor and remove the duct.
741-722A „NOTE: To aid in accessing the cap screw, the
2. Lift the rear of the console and disconnect the con- ECU may be removed.
sole/main harness plug-in; then remove the con-
sole.

2-120
 8. Remove the body screws and lock nuts (C) from
each side securing the front bumper assembly to
the chassis; then remove the two remaining self-
tapping screws (B) from each side securing the
front bumper assembly. Remove the assembly.
„NOTE: At this point, remove the air-intake
silencer and account for the rubber exhaust
bumper.

9. Remove the belt guard; then using a 1/2-in. 12-

point socket, remove the cap screw and lock
washer securing the drive clutch to the crankshaft.
FS176
10. Using Clutch Puller (p/n 0644-207) and an impact
wrench or a breaker bar and Spanner Wrench (p/n 13. Rotate the servomotor actuator counterclockwise
0644-136), tighten the puller. If the drive clutch to loosen the cable; then pull the cable housings
will not release, sharply strike the head of the out of the servomotor.
puller. Repeat this step until the clutch releases.
Remove the drive clutch and the drive belt. If
applicable, account for the two sleeves.
14. Pull the cable down and out of the cable housing
holder; then slide each cable drum back and out of
the servomotor actuator.
2
11. Remove the cap screw from the driven pulley and
slide the driven pulley off the gear case input shaft. 15. Drain the engine coolant (see Liquid Cooling Sys-
Account for alignment washers. tem - Section 3).
16. Remove the cable tie securing the gasline supply
hose to the MAG-side engine mounting bracket;
then loosen the clamp and remove the hose from
the throttle body assembly. Plug the end of the
hose and secure it up and out of the way.

! CAUTION
The gasline supply hose may be under pressure.
Place an absorbent towel around the connection to
absorb gasoline; then remove the hose slowly to
release the pressure.

„NOTE: Note the routing and securing locations of

FS192 the hose for assembling purposes.
„NOTE: If the driven pulley is tight on the driven
shaft, pull the driven pulley off using the Driven 17. Loosen the flange clamps securing the throttle
Pulley Puller (p/n 0644-460).
body assembly to the flange; then move the throt-
tle body assembly forward and disconnect the oil
„NOTE: Steps 12-14 are for the 600 cc engine. For
injection cable/control rod from the oil-injection
pump.
the 500 cc engine, proceed to step 15.

12. Using a small needle-nose pliers, remove the ser-

vomotor retaining clip and the cable holder.

FS178A

„NOTE: It is advisable to remove the clamps from

the intake flanges to avoid damage during engine
FS175 removing.

2-121
18. Loosen the clamps securing the coolant hoses con-
nected to the cylinders beneath the exhaust port
and the throttle body assembly; then remove the
vent tube from the top of the cylinder head.

FS177A
21. Remove the spark plug wires from the plugs; then
disconnect the two-wire plug-in for the coolant
temperature sensor (located below the ignition
coil).
CM030A
19. Move the throttle body assembly to one side out of
the way to a secure position.
„NOTE: With the throttle body assembly out of the
way, disconnect the oil hose from the oil pump;
then plug the oil hose.

FS193A
22. Remove the harness wrap and disconnect all igni-
tion/main harness connectors; then secure the har-
ness out of the way.

FS179A
20. Remove the cap screws securing the recoil starter;
then secure the recoil starter up and out of the way.

FS181
23. Disconnect the front heat exchanger hose.
„NOTE: Prior to disconnecting the hose, it is
advisable to place an absorbent towel beneath the
hose to collect any coolant from the exchanger.
FS180

„NOTE: On the LXR, remove the two set screws 24. Remove the four cap screws securing the upper
securing the flex-drive shaft to the starter motor;
bearing bracket to the upper support plate (account
for the two bracket plates); then secure the steering
then remove the flex-drive shaft from the motor. post to the headlight support bracket.

2-122
 FS182A FS184A
30. With the engine supported in the forward position,
remove the cable tie securing the ignition harness
to the coolant tank/heat exchanger hose; then route
the harness out from behind the hose.
2

FS183A
25. Remove the exhaust manifold from the engine.
Account for the flange nuts and gaskets.
26. Remove the cap screw and lock nut (A) and lower
cap screw (B) securing the PTO-side engine FS185A
mounting bracket to the chassis. 31. Remove the engine out the MAG-side of the
engine compartment.

742-205A
27. Remove the four cap screws (C) securing the PTO- FS186
side bracket to the engine; then remove the 32. Remove the clamps securing the coolant supply
bracket. Account for the torque bumper. hoses to the engine; then remove the hoses.
28. Remove the two cap screws (D) securing the front
engine plate to the chassis; then remove the cap
screw (E) securing the MAG-side engine mount-
ing bracket to the chassis.
29. Tip the engine forward and support the engine in a
position to gain access to the clamp securing the
coolant hose to the thermostat housing; then
loosen the clamp and remove the hose.

2-123
 FS187A FS190A

„NOTE: At this point if necessary, remove the

coolant temperature sensor. Disassembling Engine
33. Remove the two cap screws securing the MAG-
side engine mounting bracket to the engine. 1. Using the spanner wrench to secure the flywheel,
remove the flywheel cap screw and flat washer;
then remove the three starter pulley cap screws
and remove the pulley.

FS188A
34. Remove the four cap screws securing the front
engine plate to the engine.
FC014

FS189A
FC015
„NOTE: On the LXR, remove the pinion drive 2. Install Flywheel Pulley Insert (p/n 0644-179) onto
bracket assembly from the engine. the end of the crankshaft.

2-124
 5. Remove the Allen-head cap screws securing the
stator to the stator plate. Move the stator to the
side to access the Phillips-head cap screw securing
the stator lead wire; then remove the cap screw.

FC016
3. Using Flywheel Puller (p/n 0744-040) or suitable
substitute, remove the flywheel from the crank-
shaft by tightening the puller bolt, striking the
head of the puller bolt with a hammer, and tighten-
ing again. Repeat this procedure until the flywheel
2
FC018

is free. Account for the key. 6. On the 600 cc, remove the Allen-head cap screws
securing the magneto case to the crankcase.
Account for four alignment pins.
! CAUTION
To prevent damage to the crankshaft, do not thread „NOTE: Note the different-sized cap screws for
puller bolts more than 12.7 mm (1/2 in.) into the fly- assembling purposes.
wheel. Damage to the coils may result.

FC019
CM013

„NOTE: To ensure the cleanliness of the flywheel

magnets, place the flywheel (with the magnets fac-
ing upward) on a clean bench.

4. Remove the ignition timing sensor.

FC020
7. Remove the stator plate from the engine.

FC022

2-125
 FC021 FC024

FC065 FC025

„NOTE: The stator plate screws had Loctite 9. Remove the spark plugs.
applied to the threads during assembly. Using an 10. Remove the cap screws with O-rings securing the
impact driver, apply a sharp blow to the head of cylinder head; then separate from the cylinders.
each screw to break the Loctite loose before Account for the O-rings.
removal.
11. Remove the oil-injection hose from each flange.
8. On the 600 cc, remove the cap screws securing the
APV assemblies to the cylinders; then remove the
APV assemblies and set them aside.
„NOTE: Note that the APV exhaust valves and
gaskets are directional for assembling purposes.

FC026

„NOTE: When removing the cylinders, place the

engine on its intake flanges on a drain tray to allow
residual coolant to drain from the cylinder/crank-
case water jacket.
FC023
12. On the 500 cc, remove the eight nuts securing the
cylinders to the crankcase; then using a rubber
hammer, gently tap the cylinders and remove from
the crankcase by lifting them straight up off their
studs. Account for gasket(s) and any alignment
pins.

2-126
13. On the 600 cc, remove the four nuts and four bolts „NOTE: For proper assembly, keep all MAG-side
securing the cylinders to the crankcase; then using components and all PTO-side components sepa-
a rubber hammer, gently tap the cylinders and rated. Assemble them on their proper sides.
remove from the crankcase by lifting them straight
up off their studs. Account for gasket(s) and any
alignment pins.

! CAUTION
When removing a cylinder, be sure to support the
piston to prevent damage to the crankcase and pis-
ton.

FC029

! CAUTION 2
DO NOT use any type of punch to drive the piston
pin free of the piston; damage may result. Use a pis-
ton-pin puller only.

16. Lift the pistons clear of the connecting rods and

remove the small-end connecting-rod bearings
FC067
(account for two washers); then remove the piston
rings. Keep each piston with its rings; keep each
piston pin and bearing together as a set.

FC027
14. Remove the PTO-side piston-pin circlip from the
PTO-side piston; then remove the MAG-side pis-
ton-pin circlip from the MAG-side piston. AN317D

„NOTE: On the 500 cc, place rubber bands over

the connecting rods and around the cylinder
studs. This will prevent the connecting rods from
damaging the crankcase. On the 600 cc, use rub-
ber hoses to secure the connecting rods.

17. Remove the intake flanges and reed valve assem-

blies.

CM149
15. Using Piston Pin Puller (p/n 0644-328), remove
the piston pins from both pistons.

2-127
 FC030 FC033
18. Remove the three cap screws securing the thermo- 23. With its bottom side up on two support blocks,
stat cap; then remove the cap, gasket, and thermo- remove the cap screws securing the crankcase
stat. halves.
„NOTE: The end bearings are not pressed onto
the crankshaft.

24. Separate the crankcase halves by installing two

crankcase cap screws in opposite corners leaving
the heads approximately 6 mm (1/4 in.) out. Using
a plastic hammer and lifting on the ends of the
crankshaft, tap on each cap screw head until the
case halves separate. Remove the cap screws.

! CAUTION
DO NOT drive any tool between halves to separate
FC032 the crankcase. Damage to the sealing surfaces will
19. Remove the six screws securing the water pump result.
cover to the crankcase and remove the cover.
Account for the O-ring gasket and the alignment
pins.
20. Remove the cap screw securing the water pump
impeller; then slide the impeller free of the shaft.
21. Remove either lower union cap screw securing the
lower check valve assembly; then remove the two
screws securing the oil-injection pump to the
crankcase. Remove the pump, retainer, and O-ring.

FC034
25. Lift the bottom half of the crankcase off the top
half.

! CAUTION
Care must be taken to not allow the connecting rods
to drop onto the sealing surface of the bottom case
half.

26. Lift the crankshaft free from the top half of the
FC031 crankcase and slide the crankshaft oil seals off the
22. Turn the engine upside down on support blocks crankshaft. Account for the C-ring. Remove the
and remove the water temperature sensor switch. bearing retaining pins and account for the crank-
case dowel pins.

2-128
27. Remove the oil-injection pump/water pump drive-
shaft from the lower crankcase half. Account for
the thrust washer on the outer end of the shaft.

AN327D

Cleaning and Inspecting

Engine
FC035

„NOTE: Do not replace the inner seals unless the

water pump shows signs of leaking coolant out of 2
the small bleed hole in the bottom half of the „NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
crankcase. If a water pump seal is to be replaced, cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
use the Water Pump Bearing and Seal Kit (p/n necessary.
0644-084).
CYLINDER HEAD
28. Place the crankcase on the bench with the water
pump side down. Using the long seal driver, drive 1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove
the mechanical water pump seal from the crank- any carbon buildup from the combustion chambers
case. being careful not to nick, scrape, or damage the
combustion chambers or the sealing surfaces.
2. Inspect the spark-plug holes for any damaged
threads. Repair damaged threads using a heli-coil
insert.
3. Inspect the cylinder head for flatness using a
straightedge and a feeler gauge. Acceptable
warpage must not exceed 0.05 mm (0.002 in.).
„NOTE: If the warpage exceeds specification,
resurface the cylinder head using procedures
identified in step 4.

FC036
29. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, remove the snap
ring securing the inner seal in the crankcase.
30. Using the hooked end of the tool, pull the inner
seal free of the crankcase.
31. Using the hooked end of the tool, pry the seal ring
from the backside of the water pump impeller.

FS270

2-129
 4. Place the cylinder heads on a Surface Plate (p/n 4. Place the head surface of each cylinder on the sur-
0644-016) covered with #400 grit wet-or-dry face plate covered with #400 grit wet-or-dry sand-
sandpaper. Using light pressure, move each cylin- paper. Using light pressure, move each cylinder in
der head in a figure eight motion. Inspect the seal- a figure eight motion. Inspect the surface for any
ing surface for any indication of high spots. A high indication of high spots. A high spot can be noted
spot can be noted by a bright metallic finish. Cor- by a bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots
rect any high spots before assembly by continuing before assembly by continuing to move the cylin-
to move the cylinder head in a figure eight motion der in a figure eight motion until a uniform bright
until a uniform bright metallic finish is attained. metallic finish is attained.

! CAUTION
Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in
conjunction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or dam-
age to the sealing surface may result.

PISTON ASSEMBLY

1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove

the carbon buildup from the dome of each piston.
2. Take an old piston ring and snap it into two pieces;
then grind the end of the old ring to a 45° angle
CM018 and to a sharp edge. Using the sharpened ring as a
tool, clean carbon from the ring-grooves. Be sure
to position the ring with its tapered side up.
! CAUTION
Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in ! CAUTION
conjunction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or dam-
age to the sealing surface may result. Improper cleaning of the ring-grooves by the use of
the wrong type of ring-groove cleaner will result in
severe damage to the piston.
CYLINDERS
3. Inspect each piston for cracks in the piston pin and
1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove skirt areas.
carbon buildup from the exhaust ports.
4. Inspect each piston for seizure marks or scuffing.
2. Wash the cylinders in parts-cleaning solvent. Repair with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and
water or honing oil.
3. Inspect the cylinders for pitting, scoring, scuffing,
and corrosion. If marks are found, repair the sur-
face with an appropriate ball hone and honing oil
(see chart).

BALL HONES
Engine Size p/n
500 cc 0644-291
600 cc 0644-292

„NOTE: To produce the proper 60° crosshatch pat-

tern, use a low RPM drill (600 RPM) at the rate of 30
strokes per minute. If honing oil is not available,
use a lightweight, petroleum-based oil. Thoroughly AN135
clean the cylinders after honing using detergent
„NOTE: If scuffing or seizure marks are too deep
soap and hot water and dry with compressed air;
to correct with the sandpaper, it will be necessary
then immediately apply oil to the cylinder bores. If
to replace the piston.
a bore is severely damaged or gouged, the cylin-
der will have to be replaced. 5. Inspect the perimeter of each piston for signs of
excessive “blowby.” Excessive “blowby” indicates
worn piston rings or an out-of-round cylinder.

2-130
CRANKCASE CRANKSHAFT

1. Wash the crankcase halves in parts-cleaning sol- „NOTE: If any servicing of the connecting rods,
vent. center bearings, or oil-injection pump drive gear is
necessary, Arctic Cat recommends that the crank-
„NOTE: Before washing the crankcase halves,
shaft be taken to a qualified machine shop for that
make sure the four bearing dowel pins have been
service.
removed and accounted for.
1. Wash the crankshaft with bearings in parts-clean-
2. Inspect the crankcase halves for scoring, pitting, ing solvent.
scuffing, or any imperfections in the casting.
2. Inspect the bearings for wear, scoring, scuffing,
3. Inspect all threaded areas for damaged or stripped damage, or discoloration. Rotate the bearings.
threads. Bearings must rotate freely and must not bind or
4. Inspect the bearing areas for cracks or excessive feel rough. If any abnormal condition is noted,
bearing movement. If evidence of excessive bear- replace the bearing.
ing movement is noted, repair by peening the bear-
ing area in a pinking (sawtooth) pattern.
5. Inspect the bearing dowel pins for wear. 2
6. Inspect the sealing surfaces of the crankcase
halves for trueness by placing each crankcase half
on the surface plate covered with #400 grit wet-or-
dry sandpaper. Using light pressure, move each
half in a figure eight motion. Inspect the sealing
surfaces for any indication of high spots. A high
spot can be noted by a bright metallic finish. Cor-
rect any high spots by continuing to move the half
in a figure eight motion until a uniform bright
metallic finish is attained. FC039

„NOTE: Care must be taken not to remove an

3. Inspect the connecting-rod bearings by rotating
them. The bearings must rotate freely and must not
excessive amount of aluminum, or the crankcase bind or feel rough. If a connecting-rod bearing
will have to be replaced. If excessive aluminum is must be replaced, the connecting rod and crank pin
removed, too much pre-load will be exerted on the must also be replaced.
crankshaft bearings when assembled.

FC040
CM160 4. Inspect the oil-injection pump drive gear for any
signs of worn or chipped teeth. If either condition
! CAUTION exists, replace the gear.
Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in
conjunction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or dam- „NOTE: Lubricate bearings thoroughly prior to
age to the sealing surface may result. assembly.

2-131
REMOVING/INSTALLING OUTER 3. Inspect the reed stopper height. Using a caliper,
CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS measure the distance from the seat to the bottom
outer tip edge of the stopper. Measurement must
„NOTE: The end bearings are not pressed onto not exceed specifications. If measurement is not
the crankshaft. The bearings can be removed sim- within specifications, either bend or replace the
ply by sliding them off the crankshaft. reed stopper.

AJ156
CM161
4. Inspect the reed-to-seat clearance. Using a feeler
„NOTE: Install the bearings by sliding each bear- gauge, measure the clearance. Clearance must be
ing onto the crankshaft making sure the dowel-pin less than 0.20 mm (0.008 in.). If clearance is not
hole in the outer race is properly positioned and within specifications, replace the reed valve.
will align with its hole and pin in the crankcase.
5. To assemble, place the reed valves on the cage
with its clipped corner positioned to the lower
right hand corner of the cage. Place the reed stop-
per assembly into position and secure with the
screws coated with red Loctite #271.

CM161

REED VALVE ASSEMBLY

1. Inspect the reed valves, stoppers, and valve blocks CM164A

for cracks or any deterioration.

Measuring Critical
Components

„NOTE: Critical engine specifications charts can

be found at the beginning of this section.

CYLINDER HEAD VOLUME

(Squish-Gap Method)

To check the squish gap, a micrometer and a heavy

piece of solder will be needed.
CM162
1. Remove the spark plugs from the engine.
2. Wash the reed valves, stopper, and cage assembly
in parts-cleaning solvent and blow dry.

2-132
 2. Insert the solder piece down through the spark
plug hole and push it up against the inner cylinder
bore towards the MAG-side of the engine.
3. Pull the recoil rope and crank the engine over sev-
eral times while the solder is being held firmly in
place.
4. Remove the solder from the cylinder. Using the
micrometer, measure the very end of the squeezed
solder piece. Record the reading.
„NOTE: If the solder hasn’t been squeezed by the
piston, a larger piece of solder must be used.
Repeat procedure. 0725-586

5. Using the opposite end of the solder piece, insert it PISTON SKIRT/CYLINDER
down through the spark plug hole towards the CLEARANCE
PTO-side of the engine. Push on the solder until it
contacts the inner cylinder bore.
6. Pull the recoil rope and crank the engine over sev-
1. Measure each cylinder front to back about 2.5 cm
(1 in.) from the bottom of each cylinder. 2
eral times. Remove the solder from the cylinder 2. Measure the corresponding piston skirt diameter at
and measure the squeezed end with a micrometer. a point 1 cm (0.394 in.) above the piston skirt at a
Record reading and refer to the chart. right angle to the piston-pin bore. Subtract this
measurement from the measurement in step 1. The
„NOTE: Measure from PTO to MAG-side of the pis- difference (clearance) must be within specifica-
ton to accurately measure the squish gap. Never tions.
measure across piston, exhaust to carburetor
side, as the piston will rock and the reading won’t
be accurate.

Readings may vary from side to side. Make sure the

smaller reading is within the specifications listed.
CYLINDER TRUENESS

1. Measure each cylinder in the three locations from

front to back and side to side for a total of six read-
ings.

AC091

PISTON-RING END GAP

1. Place each piston ring in the wear portion above

the exhaust port of its respective cylinder. Use the
piston to position each ring squarely in each cylin-
der.
2. Using a feeler gauge, measure each piston-ring
end gap. Acceptable ring end gap must be within
specifications.
FC044
2. The trueness (out-of-roundness) is the difference
between the highest and lowest reading. Maxi-
mum trueness (out-of-roundness) must not exceed
specifications.

2-133
 FC045 AN061
2. The diameter measurement must be within specifi-
PISTON PIN AND PISTON-PIN BORE cations.

1. Measure the piston pin diameter at each end and in CRANKSHAFT RUNOUT
the center. Acceptable piston pin measurement
must be within specifications. If any measurement 1. Using the V Blocks (p/n 0644-022), support the
varies by more than 0.02 mm (0.001 in.), the pis- crankshaft on the surface plate.
ton pin and bearing must be replaced as a set.
„NOTE: The V blocks should support the crank-
shaft on the outer bearings.

2. Mount a dial indicator and base on the surface

plate. Position the indicator contact point against
the crankshaft location point F (PTO-end) from the
crankshaft end. Zero the indicator and rotate the
crankshaft slowly. Note the amount of crankshaft
runout (total indicator reading).
„NOTE: For runout location point specifications,
see Crankshaft Runout Specifications chart on
page 19 of this section.

AN056 3. Position the indicator contact point against the

2. Insert a snap gauge into each piston-pin bore; then crankshaft location point D (MAG-end) from the
remove the gauge and measure it with a microme- crankshaft end. Zero the indicator and rotate the
ter. The diameter measurement must be within crankshaft slowly. Note the amount of crankshaft
specifications. Take two measurements to ensure runout (total indicator reading).
accuracy.

FC046

AC092 4. Position the indicator contact point against the

crankshaft at location point E (center). Zero the
CONNECTING-ROD SMALL END indicator and rotate the crankshaft slowly. Note
the amount of crankshaft runout (total indicator
BORE reading).
1. Insert a snap gauge into each connecting-rod small
end bore; then remove the gauge and measure it
with a micrometer.
2-134
 5. If runout exceeds specifications at any of the
checkpoints, the crankshaft must be either
straightened or replaced.

Assembling Engine

„NOTE: The use of new gaskets and seals is rec-

ommended when assembling the engine.

„NOTE: When the use of a lubricant is indicated,

use Arctic Cat Synthetic APV 2-Cycle Oil.
MS988
1. Apply a thin coat of grease to the inner seal lips of 5. Apply a thin coat of grease to the sealing surface
the water pump seal. of the oil-injection pump/water pump driveshaft;
then place the Oil Seal Protector Tool (p/n 0644-
2. Using the seal driver, position the inner water 219) at the end of the shaft. Twist the driveshaft
pump shaft seal onto the seal driver and gently tap
the seal down into position.
clockwise as it is pushed through the oil and water
pump seals; then remove the tool. Position the 2
„NOTE: Grease must be applied to the lips of the shim on the oil-injection pump end of the drive-
inner seal before installation.
shaft.

! CAUTION
Be very careful not to damage the seals when
installing the oil pump driveshaft. Be certain to use
the seal installation tool. Twist the driveshaft clock-
wise as it enters the seal area and while it is being
pushed through the seals.

MS986A

„NOTE: The seal must be installed with its spring

side towards the crankshaft.

3. Install the snap ring securing the inner seal in the

crankcase.
FS191
6. Position the shim on the oil-injection pump end of
the driveshaft.

MS415
4. Using the seal driver, carefully install the outer
water pump seal. Gently tap the seal down into
position until it seats itself against its flange.
CM044

2-135
 7. Position the upper crankcase half upside-down on „ NOTE: To check the bearing for proper position,
two wooden blocks; then install the C-ring, the place the point of a sharp tool into the dimple
four bearing retaining pins, and the two crankcase found in the bearing race. Strike the tool with the
dowel pins. palm of the hand in either direction. If the bearing
moves, it isn’t positioned correctly and must be
8. Place the PTO-side crankshaft bearing into posi-
tion making sure the bearing retaining pin hole is rotated until it drops onto the dowel pin.
positioned inward.
! CAUTION
„NOTE: The bearing retaining pin hole is the hole
that doesn't go entirely through the bearing case. If the bearings are not properly seated during
assembly, the crankcase halves will not seal tightly
and severe engine damage will result.

11. Position the two center seal rings with their end
gaps 180° apart (up on one and down on the
other); then apply a thin coat of High-Temp Seal-
ant (p/n 0636-069) to the entire bottom half of the
crankcase sealing surface.

CM043A
9. Lubricate the inner lips of the crankshaft oil seals
with grease; then slide the seals (and rubber spacer
on the 600 cc) onto the crankshaft making sure the
spring side of each seal faces the center of the
crankshaft.
„NOTE: There is a MAG-side seal and a PTO-side
CM036A
seal.

10. Apply oil to the crankshaft bearings; then install

the crankshaft into the upper crankcase half. Be
sure the alignment hole in each bearing is posi-
tioned over its respective dowel pin in the crank-
case; then seat the crankshaft.

FC071

„NOTE: Use only Arctic Cat High-Temp Sealant (p/

n 0636-069) to seal the crankcase halves.

12. Assemble the crankcase halves making sure that

the crankshaft gear and oil-injection pump drive-
CM045A shaft gears mesh. Rotate the crankshaft one full
turn to align the crankshaft gear and pump drive-
shaft.
13. Install the crankcase cap screws (coated with blue
Loctite #243) securing the crankcase halves.
14. Tighten the three 6 mm cap screws to specifica-
tions and the ten 10 mm cap screws to specifica-
tions using the appropriate pattern shown.

2-136
 17. Position the ceramic/rubber seal retainer and seal
500 cc into the back side of the water pump impeller with
the ceramic face of the seal directed out.

0738-201

600 cc
CM168
18. Using both thumbs, press the seal into position
making sure its marked side is positioned towards
the rubber seal cup; then apply a thin coat of
2
grease to the seal outer surface.

738-202A

„NOTE: On the 500 cc, secure the connecting rods

with rubber bands on the cylinder studs. On the
600 cc, secure the connecting rods with rubber
hoses.

15. Install the oil-injection pump retainer O-ring and

retainer.
CM169
19. Place the impeller into position and secure with a
cap screw and washer. Be sure the rubber side of
the washer is directed toward the impeller. Apply
blue Loctite #243 to the threads of the cap screw
and tighten to specifications.

! CAUTION
The rubber side of the washer, which secures the
impeller, must be positioned toward the impeller. If
installed incorrectly, a coolant leak will result.

20. Apply high-temperature sealant to the crankcase/

FC082
water pump cover seam; then install the dowel
pins into the crankcase.
16. Install the O-ring and the oil-injection pump mak-
ing sure the pump shaft slot and pump driven gear
shaft align. Secure with two screws (coated with
blue Loctite #243). Tighten the two screws to
specifications.

! CAUTION
Be sure the oil-injection pump/water pump drive-
shaft is properly aligned with the slot of the oil-injec-
tion pump. The pump will be damaged if these two
components are not aligned.

2-137
 FC133A FC134

„NOTE: It is important to not get sealant into the

breather hole in the crankcase. If sealant gets into
the hole, carefully remove before proceeding.

0742-304
22. Noting the alignment dots, install the thermostat
housing with thermostat. Tighten the existing
hardware securely.
FC072B

FC078A
FC072A

„NOTE: Sealant is only required on the crankcase

seam.

21. Position the O-ring into the water pump cover;

then install the cover. Secure with six screws; then
using the pattern shown, tighten to specifications.

FC073
23. Secure the intake flanges, reed valve assemblies,
and gaskets with cap screws. Tighten to specifica-
tions.

2-138
24. Install the dowel pins into the crankcase; then
place the cylinder base gasket into position on the
crankcase.
25. Install the piston rings on each piston so the letter
on the top (inclined surface) of each ring faces the
dome of the piston.

FC079A
28. Install the new circlips so the open end is directed
either up or down.

2
726-306A

! CAUTION
Incorrect installation of the piston rings will result in
engine damage.

26. Apply oil to the connecting-rod small end bear-

ings; then install the small-end bearings. Install a
washer on each side of the connecting rod.
B324D

! CAUTION
Make sure the circlips are firmly seated and the open
end is directed either up or down before continuing
with assembly.

29. Rotate each piston ring until the ring ends are
properly positioned on either side of the ring
keeper; then apply oil to the piston assemblies and
cylinder bores. Remove the rubber bands from the
connecting rods.
30. In turn on each cylinder, place a piston holder (or
FC075
suitable substitute) beneath the piston skirt and
„NOTE: The shoulder side of the washer must square the piston in respect to the crankcase; then
seat to the needle bearing. using a ring compressor or the fingers, compress
the rings and slide the cylinder over the piston.
27. Place each piston over the connecting rod so the Remove the piston holder and seat the cylinder
indicator dot on each piston will point toward the firmly onto the crankcase.
intake/exhaust ports; then secure with an oiled pis- „NOTE: The cylinders should slide on easily. DO
ton pin. NOT force the cylinders on.
„NOTE: The indicator dot is found on the piston
dome top.

2-139
 FC076 FC077
31. On the 500 cc, secure each cylinder by installing 36. Place new O-rings onto each of the head cap
the eight nuts. DO NOT TIGHTEN AT THIS screws. Place four of these cap screws into the cyl-
TIME. inder head. Thread the spark plugs in part way;
then while holding the head above the cylinder,
32. On the 600 cc, secure each cylinder by installing carefully start and finger-tighten all four cap
the four nuts and four cap screws. DO NOT screws while observing the cylinder O-rings to
TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME. make sure they remain in position. Slowly place
the head into position on top of the O-rings. Start
33. Install the oil-injection hoses and secure with the and finger-tighten the remaining cap screws being
clamps; then place the lower check-valve assem- very careful not to move the cylinder head.
bly into position and secure with the gaskets and
union cap screw. Tighten securely. 37. From step 36 in two steps, tighten the 8 mm cap
screws to specifications using the appropriate pat-
34. Secure the cylinders (from steps 31-32) by tighten- tern shown.
ing the cylinder base nuts (and cap screws on the
600 cc) to specifications in three steps using the
appropriate pattern shown; then tighten the spark 500 cc
plugs to specifications.

500 cc

0738-204

„NOTE: On the 500 cc after tightening the 8 mm

cap screws, tighten the two remaining 6 mm cap
0738-206 screws to specifications.
600 cc
600 cc

0738-220
35. Install the two cylinder O-rings on the top of each 0738-205
cylinder making sure they are correctly positioned
in the grooves.

2-140
38. On the 600 cc, slide the APV assemblies into posi-
tion in the cylinders; then slide the valve keepers
into position and secure with cap screws (coated
with blue Loctite #243). Tighten to specifications.

! CAUTION
The long side of the exhaust valve must be facing
toward the cylinder head or severe engine damage
may occur.

FC020
40. Secure the ignition timing sensor with screws
coated with blue Loctite #243. Tighten to specifi-
cations.
41. Secure the stator plate to the crankcase with the
Allen-head cap screws coated with blue Loctite
#243 and tightened to specifications; then install
2
the stator assembly with wires and a grommet into
the crankcase and secure with the Allen-head
screws (coated with blue Loctite #243). Tighten to
FC025 specifications.

FC024
FC018
„NOTE: At this point, pressure test the engine 42. Install the key in the crankshaft.
(see section 3).
43. Thread two puller bolts into the flywheel; then
39. On the 600 cc, install the magneto case on the slide the flywheel onto the crankshaft making sure
crankcase accounting for the different-sized cap the keyways match. Remove the puller bolts.
screws and the alignment pins. Tighten cap screws
to specifications. „NOTE: Before installing the flywheel, be sure to
wipe the crankshaft and flywheel tapers clean
using a clean towel.

44. Apply red Loctite #271 to the threads of the fly-

wheel cap screw; then finger-tighten with a large
flat washer. DO NOT TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME.

FC019

2-141
 FC080 FS189A
45. Place the starter pulley in position; then loosely 3. Install the throttle body hose (A), inlet hose (B),
secure the starter pulley with three cap screws and the front heat exchanger hose (C) to the
(coated with red Loctite #271). Secure the pulley engine; then secure with the hose clamps.
while using the spanner wrench and tighten the
three cap screws evenly to specifications.

FS187B

FC081
„NOTE: At this time if the coolant temperature
sensor was removed, install the sensor and
46. Using the spanner wrench, tighten the flywheel
cap screw (from step 44) to specifications. tighten securely.

„NOTE: At this point on the LXR, install the pinion

Installing Engine bracket assembly to the engine with two cap
screws (coated with green Loctite #609). Tighten
to specifications.
1. Install the MAG-side engine mounting bracket to
the engine with the two cap screws (coated with
blue Loctite #243). Tighten to specifications.

FS190A

FS188A
2. Install the front lower engine plate to the engine
with four cap screws (coated with blue Loctite
#243). Tighten to specifications.

2-142
 4. Place the engine into the engine compartment
from the MAG-side; then tip the engine forward
and support the engine in this position. Connect
the coolant hose to the thermostat housing.

! CAUTION
Position the hose clamp screw so it is directed to the
back side of the thermostat housing to avoid con-
tacting the chassis when the engine is lowered and
secured.

742-205A
6. Position the torque bumper against the gear case;
then install the PTO-side engine mounting bracket.
„NOTE: Prior to installing the bracket, assure that
the U-nut clip is centered in position.
2

FS194A

„NOTE: At this point on the LXR, insert the flex-

drive shaft into the pinion drive and secure with
the two set screws.

FS195A
7. Using the illustration following step 5, install the
cap screw and lock nut (A) and the lower cap
screw (B) securing the PTO-side bracket to the
chassis; then install the four cap screws (C)
(coated with blue Loctite #243) securing the
bracket to the engine. Tighten all mounting hard-
ware to specifications.
8. Connect the coolant hose to the outlet of the front
heat exchanger and secure with the hose clamp.
FS177A
5. Position the engine to the chassis mounts; then in
order, install cap screw (D) securing the engine
plate to the MAG-side mount, cap screw (E)
securing the MAG-side mounting bracket to the
chassis, and cap screw (D) to the PTO-side mount.
Tighten all mounting cap screws to specifications.

FS196A
9. Route the ignition harness and the coolant temper-
ature sensor two-wire connector between the cool-
ant tank and the chassis; then connect all ignition/
main harness plug-ins and the two-wire connector.

2-143
 FS197 FS178A

„NOTE: Prior to connecting the harness, it is

advisable to clean all plug-ins with contact cleaner.

10. Secure the ignition harness to the coolant hose

with a cable tie in the position as noted in remov-
ing; then install the harness wrap.

FS179A

„NOTE: Check to be sure the mark on the control

arm is aligned with alignment mark on the oil-
injection pump boss in the full-open position. If the
marks are not aligned, adjust synchronization by
loosening the jam nuts on the adjuster. Rotate the
FS181 jam nuts/adjuster nut until proper alignment is
11. Place the recoil starter into position and secure the attained. Tighten jam nuts.
starter with the cap screws. In a crisscross pattern,
tighten to specifications. „ NOTE: When the cable/linkage adjusting nut is
adjusted correctly, the throttle lever will move
approximately 3.2 mm (1/8 in.) before the oil-injec-
tion pump arm begins to move.
13. Remove the oil bleed plug from the oil injection
pump. When oil flows from pump free of air bub-
bles and the hose is full of oil, install the oil bleed
plug and tighten.
„NOTE: It is advisable to place a cloth beneath the
oil-injection pump to contain any oil spilled during
the bleeding process.

14. Connect the throttle body coolant hose to the PTO-

side throttle body and secure with the clamp; then
FS180
install the two coolant hoses to the MAG-side and
12. Install the throttle body assembly and secure with PTO-side of the crankcase (below the exhaust
the flange clamps; then connect the oil pump ports).
cable/control rod and the oil hose.

2-144
 ! CAUTION
When installing the throttle bodies, make sure the
gasline hose is properly routed to avoid premature
wear and/or contact with exhaust components.

18. Connect the coolant overflow hose to the cylinder

head; then connect the spark plug wires to the
spark plugs.
„NOTE: Steps 19-21 are for the 600 cc engine.

19. Rotate the servomotor clockwise to remove any

FS198A slack from the cables.
20. Slide the APV cable drums into the servomotor
actuator; then place the cable housings into posi-
tion in the servomotor. Secure with the cable
holder and the servomotor retaining clip.
2

FS199A
15. Apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone
sealant to each exhaust port; then install the
exhaust gaskets.
16. Apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone
sealant to the mating surfaces of the exhaust mani- FS176

fold; then install the exhaust manifold and secure

with six nuts. Tighten the nuts to specifications.

FS175
21. Check APV cable adjustment. See Arctic Power
Valve (APV) System in Section 3.
CM035
17. Route the gasline hose to the throttle body assem- „NOTE: Before installing the drive clutch, be sure
bly and secure the hose to the fuel rail. Tighten the to wipe both the crankshaft taper and clutch
clamp securely; then using a cable tie, secure the mounting taper clean using a clean towel.
hose to the MAG-side engine mounting bracket.

2-145
22. Place the drive clutch into position on the crank-
shaft and secure with the cap screw and lock
washer. Tighten to specifications.

! CAUTION
When installing the drive clutch, do not tighten the
clutch cap screw with any kind of impact tool.
Tighten cap screw using a hand torque wrench only.
Failure to do so could result in stationary sheave
damage.

23. Install the alignment washers; then install the

driven pulley on the gear case input shaft. Tighten FS200A
the cap screw to 4.4 kg-m (32 ft-lb).
26. Install the air silencer onto the throttle bodies mak-
ing sure the dual intake boot is properly positioned
! CAUTION and seated.
It is critical that no less than two 1.5 mm (0.060 in.)
„NOTE: To aid in installing the air silencer, it can
washers are in place on the input shaft when install-
be helpful to remove the air silencer cover and
ing the driven pulley.
work the intake boot over the throttle body from
inside the silencer.

FS192
24. Check drive clutch/driven pulley alignment (see
Section 8). Install the drive belt. Check belt deflec- FS201A

tion. Secure the belt guard. 27. Place the front bumper assembly (with spar pan-
els) into position on the snowmobile; then secure
25. Secure the bearing bracket/steering post assembly the front and rear spar panels together with the
to the upper support plate with the bracket plates torx-head cap screws and lock nuts (A). Tighten
and cap screws (coated with blue Loctite #243). the lock nuts securely.
Tighten the cap screws to 1.1 kg-m (8 ft-lb).

742-207A
FS182A 28. Install the body screws and lock nuts (C) from
„NOTE: When installing the bracket plates, the each side and the self-tapping screws (B) from
wider end of the plate must be directed up.
each side securing the front bumper assembly to
the chassis. Tighten all hardware securely.

2-146
29. Connect the air temperature sensor and place the
sensor harness beneath the air-intake duct; then
install the duct into the silencer.
„NOTE: To aid in installing the duct, it can be help-
ful to apply a thin film of WD-40 to the air silencer
seal and to work the duct back and forth until the
sleeve of the duct is properly seated into the
silencer.

! CAUTION
Make sure to place the sensor harness beneath the
air-intake duct to avoid contact with exhaust compo- FS203A
nents.
„NOTE: On the LXR, secure the negative battery
30. Secure the air-intake duct to the upper frame with cable to the battery.
the cap screw. Tighten securely.
35. Install the exhaust resonator and secure to the
„NOTE: If the ECU was removed to gain access to
the air-intake duct cap screw, install the ECU using
upper frame with the tab washer and the hairpin
clip.
2
the two lock nuts. Tighten the lock nuts securely;
then connect the harness plug-ins to the ECU. 36. Place gaskets on the resonator and exhaust mani-
fold; then install the expansion chamber. Secure
the chamber to manifold and upper frame with the
springs.
„NOTE: When installing the exhaust manifold
springs, the long hook portion of the spring must
be attached to the exhaust manifold or premature
spring failure will result.

37. Place the console into position on the headlight

support bracket (do not secure the console with the
torx-head screws at this time); then connect the
console/main harness plug-in.
38. Install and close the left-side and right-side access
FS202A panels and the hood.
31. Using the illustration following step 27, secure the
left-side rear spar panel to the gas tank and support 39. Start the engine and warm up to operating temper-
tube with the three torx-head screws (D). Tighten ature; then verify that all components are function-
the screws securely. ing properly and that coolant is circulating through
the cooling system properly.
32. Install the seat; then install the machine screw
(threads coated with blue Loctite #243) to the right ! CAUTION
side of the seat support.
Never run the engine with the hood harness discon-
nected or damage to the electrical system will result.
! CAUTION
It is critical that machine screw is not installed tight ! CAUTION
against the seat support. The screw must be loose After running the engine to the proper operating tem-
enough to be effective as a seat “stop.” perature, shut the engine off; then open the hood
and access panels and inspect for any signs of cool-
33. Fill the cooling system (see Liquid Cooling Sys- ant, gasoline, or oil leakage.
tem in Section 3).
34. Place the rubber exhaust bumper into position on 40. Allow the engine to cool; then check the coolant
the air silencer. level and add coolant as necessary.
41. Verify the tightening torque of the drive clutch.
42. Secure the console to the steering support with the
torx-head screws and tighten the screws securely;
then close the left-side and right-side access panels
and close the hood.

2-147
 Removing Engine

1. Remove the hood and the left-side and right-side

access panels; then remove the torx-head screws
securing the console.

741-722A

! CAUTION
If the engine had a major overhaul or if any major
component was replaced, proper engine break-in
procedures must be followed. If the proper engine
break-in procedures are not followed, severe engine
damage may result.
741-722A
2. Lift the rear of the console and disconnect the con-
Engine - sole/main harness plug-in; then remove the con-
sole.
F-Series 800/1000
3. Remove the hairpin clip and all springs securing
the expansion chamber and resonator; then remove
This engine servicing sub-section has been organized these components from the engine compartment.
to show a progression for the complete servicing of the Account for the two exhaust gaskets.
Arctic Cat 800 cc/1000 cc (F-Series) engines. For con-
sistency purposes, this sub-section shows a complete „NOTE: On the LXR, disconnect the negative
and thorough progression; however, for efficiency it cable from the battery.
may be preferable to remove the engine as a complete
assembly, to remove and disassemble only those com- 4. With the seat adjusted to its lowest position,
ponents which need to be addressed, and to service remove the self-tapping screw from the right-side
only those components. Also, some components may seat adjustment track; then remove the seat.
vary from model to model. The technician should use
discretion and sound judgment.
„NOTE: Critical torque specifications can be
found on pages 14-17 of this section.

„NOTE: Some illustrations and photographs used

in this section are used for clarity purposes only
and are not designed to depict actual conditions.

Table of Contents
ZJ100A
Removing ............................................................ 2-148
Disassembling..................................................... 2-153 5. Remove the torx-head screws securing the handle-
Cleaning and Inspecting ..................................... 2-158 bar close-off panel; then remove the panel.
Measuring Critical Components.......................... 2-161
6. Remove the lock nuts and torx-head cap screws
Assembling.......................................................... 2-163 (A) securing the right-side front and rear spar pan-
Installing .............................................................. 2-171 els; then remove the torx-head screws (D) securing
the left-side rear spar panel to the gas tank and
support tube.

2-148
 742-207A FS192

„NOTE: The right-side rear spar panel will remain „NOTE: If the driven pulley is tight on the driven
secured to the chassis. shaft, pull the driven pulley off using the Driven
Pulley Puller (p/n 0644-460).
7. Remove the cap screw located directly above the
ECU securing the air-silencer duct to the front
upper panel; then disconnect the air temperature
12. Using a small needle-nose pliers, remove the ser-
vomotor retaining clip and the cable holder.
2
sensor and remove the duct.
„NOTE: To aid in accessing the cap screw, the
ECU may be removed.

8. Remove the body screws and flange nuts (C) from

each side securing the front bumper assembly to
the chassis; then remove the two remaining self-
tapping screws (B) from each side securing the
front bumper assembly. Remove the assembly.
„NOTE: At this point, remove the air-intake
silencer and account for the rubber exhaust
bumper.
FS175
9. Remove the belt guard; then using a 1/2-in. 12-
point socket, remove the cap screw and lock
washer securing the drive clutch to the crankshaft.
10. Using Clutch Puller (p/n 0644-207) and an impact
wrench or a breaker bar and Spanner Wrench (p/n
0644-136), tighten the puller. If the drive clutch
will not release, sharply strike the head of the
puller. Repeat this step until the clutch releases.
Remove the drive clutch and the drive belt. If
applicable, account for the two sleeves.
11. Remove the cap screw from the driven pulley and
slide the driven pulley off the gear case input shaft.
Account for alignment washers. FS176
13. Rotate the servomotor actuator counterclockwise
to loosen the cable; then pull the cable housings
out of the servomotor.
14. Slide each cable drum back and out of the servo-
motor actuator.
15. On the LXR, remove the starter motor using the
following sequence:
A. Remove the lock nuts securing the negative and
the positive cables to the starter motor.

2-149
 16. Drain the engine coolant (see Liquid Cooling Sys-
tem - Section 3).
17. Remove the cable tie securing the gasline supply
hose to the MAG-side engine mounting bracket;
then loosen the clamp and remove the hose from
the throttle body assembly. Plug the end of the
hose and secure it up and out of the way.

! CAUTION
The gasline supply hose may be under pressure.
Place an absorbent towel around the connection to
absorb gasoline; then remove the hose slowly to
FS205A
release the pressure.
B. Loosen the two set screws securing the flex-
drive shaft to the pinion driveshaft. „NOTE: Note the routing and securing locations of
the hose for assembling purposes.

18. Loosen the flange clamps securing the throttle

body assembly to the flange; then move the throt-
tle body assembly forward and disconnect the oil
injection control rod from the oil-injection pump.

FS206A
C. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing
the starter motor brackets to the chassis and to
the upper frame. Remove the starter motor.

FS209A

„NOTE: It is advisable to remove the clamps from

the intake flanges to avoid damage during engine
removing.

19. Loosen the clamps securing the two coolant hoses

connected to the MAG-side and PTO-side throttle
body; then remove the vent tube from the top of
the cylinder head.
„NOTE: On the 1000 cc, remove the coolant
FS207A bypass hoses from the cylinders.

20. Move the throttle body assembly to one side out of

the way to a secure position.
„NOTE: With the throttle body assembly out of the
way, disconnect the oil hose from the oil pump;
then plug the oil hose.

FS208A

2-150
 FS213A FS212A
21. Remove the cap screws securing the recoil starter; 23. Remove the harness wrap and disconnect all igni-
then secure the recoil starter up and out of the way. tion/main harness connectors; then secure the
main harness out of the way.

FS210
22. Remove the spark plug wires from the plugs; then FS181
disconnect the two-wire plug-in for the coolant „NOTE: Remove the cable ties securing the cool-
temperature sensor (located below the lower ant hose, gasline hose, and on the LXR, battery
MAG-side ignition coil).
cables together.

FS211A
FS214A
„NOTE: On the 800 cc at the coolant filler neck 24. Disconnect the front heat exchanger hose.
bracket, disconnect the knock sensor wiring con-
nector and slide the wiring out of the cable tie. „NOTE: Prior to disconnecting the hose, it is
advisable to place an absorbent towel beneath the
hose to collect any coolant from the exchanger.

25. Remove the four cap screws securing the upper

bearing bracket to the upper support plate (account
for the two bracket plates); then secure the steering
post to the headlight support bracket.

2-151
 1000 cc

FS182A
742-213A
28. Remove the four cap screws (C) securing the PTO-
side bracket to the engine; then remove the
bracket. Account for the torque bumper.
29. Remove the four cap screws (D) securing the
engine/pinion bracket to the engine; then remove
the cap screw (E) securing the MAG-side engine
mounting bracket to the chassis.
„NOTE: At this point, loosen the clamp securing
the coolant hose to the thermostat housing; then
remove the hose.

FS183A
26. Remove the exhaust manifold from the engine.
Account for flange nuts and gaskets.
27. Remove the cap screw and lock nut (A) and lower
cap screw (B) securing the PTO-side engine
mounting bracket to the chassis.

800 cc

FS217A
30. Using the appropriate illustration after step 27,
remove the two cap screws (F) securing the MAG-
side engine mounting bracket to the engine.
31. Prior to removing the engine, tip it back far
enough to allow access to the engine/pinion
bracket (A); then secure the bracket forward with a
suitable tie-down (B).
742-201A

FS215A

2-152
 Disassembling Engine

„NOTE: When disassembling top-side compo-

nents, mark MAG-side and PTO-side components
for assembling purposes.

1. Using the spanner wrench to secure the flywheel,

remove the flywheel cap screw and flat washer;
then remove the three starter pulley cap screws
and remove the pulley.
FS218A
32. Carefully work the engine out the MAG-side of
the engine compartment.

CM138

FS186

! CAUTION
When removing the engine, take care not to damage
the oil pump or the APV cables.

33. After the engine has been removed, remove the

clamps securing the coolant supply hoses to the
engine; then remove the hoses.

CM139
2. Install Flywheel Pulley Insert (p/n 0644-179) onto
the end of the crankshaft.

FS216

„NOTE: At this point if necessary, remove the

coolant temperature sensor.

FC016

2-153
 3. Using Flywheel Puller (p/n 0744-040) or suitable
substitute, remove the flywheel from the crank-
shaft by tightening the puller bolt, striking the
head of the puller bolt with a hammer, and tighten-
ing again. Repeat this procedure until the flywheel
is free. Account for the key.

! CAUTION
To prevent damage to the crankshaft, do not thread
puller bolts more than 12.7 mm (1/2 in.) into the fly-
wheel. Damage to the coils may result.

CM142A
5. Remove the Allen-head cap screw (A) securing
the stator lead wire plate to the crankcase; then
remove the Allen-head cap screws (B) securing
the timing sensors, remove the sensors, and
account for the harness grommets.

CM140

„NOTE: To ensure the cleanliness of the flywheel

magnets, place the flywheel (with the magnets fac-
ing upward) on a clean bench.

„NOTE: On the 1000 cc, remove the Allen-head

cap screws securing the magneto case to the
CM141C
crankcase. Account for four alignment pins.
6. Remove the Allen-head cap screws securing the
stator to the stator plate. Route the stator lead wire
out of the crankcase; then remove the stator
assembly.

CM144A
4. Remove the cap screw securing the ground wire to
the crankcase.
CM143A

7. Remove the cap screws securing the stator plate to

the engine; then remove the plate.

2-154
 CM145D CM147

„NOTE: For assembling purposes, note that the 9. Remove the spark plugs.
indentation (A) of the stator plate is aligned with „NOTE: On the 800 cc at this point, remove the
the harness opening (B) in the crankcase. knock sensor and lock plate from the cylinder
head by bending the lock plate tabs down and
unthreading the sensor. 2
10. Remove the cap screws with O-rings securing the
cylinder head; then separate from the cylinders.
Account for the O-rings.
„NOTE: When removing the cylinders, place the
engine on its intake flanges on a drain tray to allow
residual coolant to drain from the cylinder/crank-
case water jacket.

11. Remove the four nuts and four cap screws secur-
ing the cylinders to the crankcase; then using a soft
CM145C hammer, gently tap the cylinders and remove from
„NOTE: The stator plate screws had Loctite the crankcase by lifting them straight up off their
applied to the threads during assembly. Using an
studs. Account for gasket(s) and alignment pins.
impact driver, apply a sharp blow to the head of
each screw to break the Loctite loose before ! CAUTION
removal. When removing a cylinder, be sure to support the
piston to prevent damage to the crankcase and pis-
8. Remove the cap screws securing the APV assem- ton.
blies to the cylinders; then remove the APV
assemblies and set them aside.
„NOTE: For assembling purposes, note that the
APV exhaust valves and gaskets are directional.

CM148
12. Remove the PTO-side piston-pin circlip from the
PTO-side piston; then remove the MAG-side pis-
ton-pin circlip from the MAG-side piston.
CM146A

2-155
 „NOTE: Place a suitable length of rubber hose
around the connecting rods. This will prevent the
connecting rods from damaging the crankcase.

15. Remove the intake flanges and reed valve assem-

blies.

CM149
13. Using Piston Pin Puller (p/n 0644-328), remove
the piston pins from both pistons.
„NOTE: For proper assembly, keep all MAG-side
components and all PTO-side components sepa-
rated. Assemble them on their proper sides.
CM152
16. Remove the lower union cap screw securing the
lower check valve assembly to the crankcase; then
remove the two screws securing the oil-injection
pump to the crankcase. Remove the pump,
retainer, and O-ring and account for the two gas-
kets from the lower union.

CM150

! CAUTION
DO NOT use any type of punch to drive the piston
pin free of the piston; damage may result. Use a pis-
ton-pin puller only.

14. Lift the pistons clear of the connecting rods and CM153A

remove the small-end connecting-rod bearings

(account for two washers); then remove the piston
rings. Keep each piston with its rings; keep each
piston pin and bearing together as a set.

CM154A
17. Remove the four cap screws securing the thermo-
stat cap; then remove the cap, gasket, and thermo-
stat.
CM151

2-156
 21. Turn the engine upside down on support blocks,
cut the cable tie, and remove the water tempera-
ture sensor switch.
22. With its bottom side up on two support blocks,
remove the cap screws securing the crankcase
halves.
„NOTE: The end bearings are not pressed onto
the crankshaft.

23. Separate the crankcase halves by installing two

crankcase cap screws in opposite corners leaving
the heads approximately 6 mm (1/4 in.) out. Using
CM155A
a plastic hammer and lifting on the ends of the
„NOTE: For assembling purposes, note that the crankshaft, tap on each cap screw head until the
positioning of the bypass/check valve is directed case halves separate. Remove the cap screws.
up.
! CAUTION
DO NOT drive any tool between halves to separate 2
the crankcase. Damage to the sealing surfaces will
result.

CM157A
18. Remove the seven cap screws securing the water
pump cover to the crankcase and remove the
cover. Account for the O-ring gasket and the align-
ment pins. CM158
24. Lift the bottom half of the crankcase off the top
half.

! CAUTION
Care must be taken to not allow the connecting rods
to drop onto the sealing surface of the bottom case
half.

25. Lift the crankshaft free from the top half of the
crankcase and slide the crankshaft oil seals off the
crankshaft. Account for the C-ring (A). Remove
the bearing retaining pins (B) and account for the
crankcase dowel pins (C).
CM156A
19. Remove the cap screw securing the water pump
impeller; then slide the impeller free of the shaft.
20. Prior to turning the engine upside down on the 800
cc, remove the two crankcase Allen-head cap
screws from the water pump side of the engine;
then remove the two cap screws from the magneto
housing. On the 1000 cc, remove the one crank-
case Allen-head cap screw located above the ther-
mostat housing.

2-157
 30. Using the hooked end of the tool, pry the seal ring
from the backside of the water pump impeller.

CM165C
26. Remove the oil-injection pump/water pump drive-
shaft from the lower crankcase half. Account for
the thrust washer on the outer end of the shaft. AN327D

Cleaning and Inspecting

Engine

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

CYLINDER HEAD

1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove

any carbon buildup from the combustion chambers
CM159A being careful not to nick, scrape, or damage the
„NOTE: Do not replace the inner seals unless the combustion chambers or the sealing surfaces.
water pump shows signs of leaking coolant out of 2. Inspect the spark-plug holes for any damaged
the small bleed hole in the bottom half of the threads. Repair damaged threads using a heli-coil
crankcase. If a water pump seal is to be replaced, insert.
use the Water Pump Bearing and Seal Kit (p/n
0644-084). 3. Inspect the cylinder head for flatness using a
straightedge and a feeler gauge. Acceptable
27. Place the crankcase on the bench with the water warpage must not exceed 0.05 mm (0.002 in.).
pump side down. Using the long seal driver, drive „NOTE: If the warpage exceeds specification,
the mechanical water pump seal from the crank-
case. resurface the cylinder head using procedures
identified in step 4.

4. Place the cylinder heads on a Surface Plate (p/n

0644-016) covered with #400 grit wet-or-dry
sandpaper. Using light pressure, move each cylin-
der head in a figure eight motion. Inspect the seal-
ing surface for any indication of high spots. A high
spot can be noted by a bright metallic finish. Cor-
rect any high spots before assembly by continuing
to move the cylinder head in a figure eight motion
until a uniform bright metallic finish is attained.

! CAUTION
Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in
FC036
conjunction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or dam-
28. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, remove the snap age to the sealing surface may result.
ring securing the inner seal in the crankcase.
29. Using the hooked end of the tool, pull the inner
seal free of the crankcase.

2-158
CYLINDERS 4. Inspect each piston for seizure marks or scuffing.
Repair with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and
1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove water or honing oil.
carbon buildup from the exhaust ports.
2. Wash the cylinders in parts-cleaning solvent.
3. Inspect the cylinders for pitting, scoring, scuffing,
and corrosion. If marks are found, repair the sur-
face with an appropriate ball hone and honing oil
(see chart).

BALL HONES
Engine Size p/n
800 cc 0644-293
1000 cc 0644-294
AN135
„NOTE: To produce the proper 60° crosshatch pat-
tern, use a low RPM drill (600 RPM) at the rate of 30
strokes per minute. If honing oil is not available,
„NOTE: If scuffing or seizure marks are too deep
to correct with the sandpaper, it will be necessary 2
use a lightweight, petroleum-based oil. Thoroughly to replace the piston.
clean the cylinders after honing using detergent
soap and hot water and dry with compressed air; 5. Inspect the perimeter of each piston for signs of
then immediately apply oil to the cylinder bores. If excessive “blowby.” Excessive “blowby” indicates
a bore is severely damaged or gouged, the cylin- worn piston rings or an out-of-round cylinder.
der will have to be replaced.
CRANKCASE
4. Place the head surface of each cylinder on the sur-
face plate covered with #400 grit wet-or-dry sand- 1. Wash the crankcase halves in parts-cleaning sol-
paper. Using light pressure, move each cylinder in vent.
a figure eight motion. Inspect the surface for any „NOTE: Before washing the crankcase halves,
indication of high spots. A high spot can be noted make sure the four bearing dowel pins have been
by a bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots
removed and accounted for.
before assembly by continuing to move the cylin-
der in a figure eight motion until a uniform bright
metallic finish is attained. 2. Inspect the crankcase halves for scoring, pitting,
scuffing, or any imperfections in the casting.
! CAUTION 3. Inspect all threaded areas for damaged or stripped
Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in threads.
conjunction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or dam- 4. Inspect the bearing areas for cracks or excessive
age to the sealing surface may result. bearing movement. If evidence of excessive bear-
ing movement is noted, repair by peening the bear-
PISTON ASSEMBLY ing area in a pinking (sawtooth) pattern.
1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove 5. Inspect the bearing dowel pins for wear.
the carbon buildup from the dome of each piston.
6. Inspect the sealing surfaces of the crankcase
2. Take an old piston ring and snap it into two pieces; halves for trueness by placing each crankcase half
then grind the end of the old ring to a 45° angle on the surface plate covered with #400 grit wet-or-
and to a sharp edge. Using the sharpened ring as a dry sandpaper. Using light pressure, move each
tool, clean carbon from the ring-grooves. Be sure half in a figure eight motion. Inspect the sealing
to position the ring with its tapered side up. surfaces for any indication of high spots. A high
spot can be noted by a bright metallic finish. Cor-
! CAUTION rect any high spots by continuing to move the half
in a figure eight motion until a uniform bright
Improper cleaning of the ring-grooves by the use of metallic finish is attained.
the wrong type of ring-groove cleaner will result in
severe damage to the piston. „NOTE: Care must be taken not to remove an
excessive amount of aluminum, or the crankcase
3. Inspect each piston for cracks in the piston pin and will have to be replaced. If excessive aluminum is
skirt areas. removed, too much pre-load will be exerted on the
crankshaft bearings when assembled.

2-159
 CM160 FC040

! CAUTION 4. Inspect the oil-injection pump drive gear for any

signs of worn or chipped teeth. If either condition
Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in exists, replace the gear.
conjunction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or dam-
age to the sealing surface may result. „NOTE: Lubricate bearings thoroughly prior to
assembly.
CRANKSHAFT REMOVING/INSTALLING OUTER
„NOTE: If any servicing of the connecting rods, CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS
center bearings, or oil-injection pump drive gear is
„NOTE: The end bearings are not pressed onto
necessary, Arctic Cat recommends that the crank-
the crankshaft. The bearings can be removed sim-
shaft be taken to a qualified machine shop for that
ply by sliding them off the crankshaft.
service.

1. Wash the crankshaft with bearings in parts-clean-

ing solvent.
2. Inspect the bearings for wear, scoring, scuffing,
damage, or discoloration. Rotate the bearings.
Bearings must rotate freely and must not bind or
feel rough. If any abnormal condition is noted,
replace the bearing.

CM161
Inspect the crankshaft bearing area for wear. If any
wear is noted on either end, replace the crankshaft end.
„NOTE: Install the bearings by sliding each bear-
ing onto the crankshaft making sure the dowel-pin
hole in the outer race is properly positioned and
will align with its hole and pin in the crankcase.

FC039
3. Inspect the connecting-rod bearings by rotating
them. The bearings must rotate freely and must not
bind or feel rough. If a connecting-rod bearing
must be replaced, the connecting rod and crank pin
must also be replaced.

2-160
 5. To assemble, place the reed valves on the cage
with its clipped corner positioned to the lower
right hand corner of the cage. Place the reed stop-
per assembly into position and secure with the
screws coated with red Loctite #271.

CM161

REED VALVE ASSEMBLY

1. Inspect the reed valves, stoppers, and valve blocks

for cracks or any deterioration.
CM164A 2
Measuring Critical
Components

„NOTE: Critical engine specifications charts can

be found at the beginning of this section.

CYLINDER HEAD VOLUME

(Squish-Gap Method)

To check the squish gap, a micrometer and a heavy

CM162
piece of solder will be needed.
2. Wash the reed valves, stopper, and cage assembly
in parts-cleaning solvent and blow dry. 1. Remove the spark plugs from the engine.
3. Inspect the reed stopper height. Using a caliper, 2. Insert the solder piece down through the spark
measure the distance from the seat to the bottom plug hole and push it up against the inner cylinder
outer tip edge of the stopper. Measurement must bore towards the MAG-side of the engine.
not exceed specifications. If measurement is not
within specifications, either bend or replace the 3. Pull the recoil rope and crank the engine over sev-
reed stopper. eral times while the solder is being held firmly in
place.
4. Remove the solder from the cylinder. Using the
micrometer, measure the very end of the squeezed
solder piece. Record the reading.
„NOTE: If the solder hasn’t been squeezed by the
piston, a larger piece of solder must be used.
Repeat procedure.

5. Using the opposite end of the solder piece, insert it

down through the spark plug hole towards the
PTO-side of the engine. Push on the solder until it
contacts the inner cylinder bore.
CM163 6. Pull the recoil rope and crank the engine over sev-
4. Inspect the reed-to-seat clearance. Using a feeler eral times. Remove the solder from the cylinder
gauge, measure the clearance. Clearance must be and measure the squeezed end with a micrometer.
less than 0.20 mm (0.008 in.). If clearance is not Record reading and refer to the chart.
within specifications, replace the reed valve.

2-161
„NOTE: Measure from PTO to MAG-side of the pis-
ton to accurately measure the squish gap. Never
measure across piston, exhaust to carburetor
side, as the piston will rock and the reading won’t
be accurate.

Readings may vary from side to side. Make sure the

smaller reading is within the specifications listed.
CYLINDER TRUENESS

1. Measure each cylinder in the three locations from

front to back and side to side for a total of six read-
ings. AC091

PISTON-RING END GAP

1. Place each piston ring in the wear portion above the

exhaust port of its respective cylinder. Use the pis-
ton to position each ring squarely in each cylinder.
2. Using a feeler gauge, measure each piston-ring
end gap. Acceptable ring end gap must be within
specifications.

FC044
2. The trueness (out-of-roundness) is the difference
between the highest and lowest reading. Maxi-
mum trueness (out-of-roundness) must not exceed
specifications.

FC045

PISTON PIN AND PISTON-PIN BORE

1. Measure the piston pin diameter at each end and in

the center. Acceptable piston pin measurement
must be within specifications. If any measurement
varies by more than 0.02 mm (0.001 in.), the pis-
ton pin and bearing must be replaced as a set.
0725-586

PISTON SKIRT/CYLINDER
CLEARANCE

1. Measure each cylinder front to back about 2.5 cm

(1 in.) from the bottom of each cylinder.
2. Measure the corresponding piston skirt diameter at a
point 1 cm (0.394 in.) above the piston skirt at a
right angle to the piston-pin bore. Subtract this mea-
surement from the measurement in step 1. The dif-
ference (clearance) must be within specifications.
AN056

2-162
 2. Insert a snap gauge into each piston-pin bore; then 3. Position the indicator contact point against the
remove the gauge and measure it with a microme- crankshaft location point D (MAG-end) from the
ter. The diameter measurement must be within crankshaft end. Zero the indicator and rotate the
specifications. Take two measurements to ensure crankshaft slowly. Note the amount of crankshaft
accuracy. runout (total indicator reading).

AC092
4. Position the indicator contact point against the
FC046 2
CONNECTING-ROD SMALL END crankshaft at location point E (center). Zero the
BORE indicator and rotate the crankshaft slowly. Note
the amount of crankshaft runout (total indicator
1. Insert a snap gauge into each connecting-rod small reading).
end bore; then remove the gauge and measure it
with a micrometer. 5. If runout exceeds specifications at any of the
checkpoints, the crankshaft must be either
straightened or replaced.

Assembling Engine

„NOTE: The use of new gaskets and seals is rec-

ommended when assembling the engine.

„NOTE: When the use of a lubricant is indicated,

use Arctic Cat Synthetic APV 2-Cycle Oil.

1. Apply a thin coat of grease to the inner seal lips of

AN061 the water pump seal.
2. The diameter measurement must be within specifi- 2. Using the seal driver, position the inner water
cations. pump shaft seal onto the seal driver and gently tap
CRANKSHAFT RUNOUT the seal down into position.
„NOTE: Grease must be applied to the lips of the
1. Using the V Blocks (p/n 0644-022), support the inner seal before installation.
crankshaft on the surface plate.
„NOTE: The V blocks should support the crank-
shaft on the outer bearings.

2. Mount a dial indicator and base on the surface

plate. Position the indicator contact point against
the crankshaft location point F (PTO-end) from the
crankshaft end. Zero the indicator and rotate the
crankshaft slowly. Note the amount of crankshaft
runout (total indicator reading).
„NOTE: For runout location point specifications,
see Crankshaft Runout Specifications chart on
page 19 of this section.
MS986A

2-163
„NOTE: The seal must be installed with its spring
side towards the crankshaft.

3. Install the snap ring securing the inner seal in the

crankcase.

FS191
6. Position the shim on the oil-injection pump end of
the driveshaft.

MS415
4. Using the seal driver, carefully install the outer
water pump seal. Gently tap the seal down into
position until it seats itself against its flange.

CM159A
7. Secure the upper crankcase half upside-down on a
suitable support; then install the C-ring (A), the
four bearing retaining pins (B), and the two crank-
case dowel pins (C).

MS988
5. Apply a thin coat of grease to the sealing surface
of the oil-injection pump/water pump driveshaft;
then place the Oil Seal Protector Tool (p/n 0644-
219) at the end of the shaft. Twist the driveshaft
clockwise as it is pushed through the oil and water
pump seals; then remove the tool.

! CAUTION
Be very careful not to damage the seals when
installing the oil pump driveshaft. Be certain to use
the seal protector tool. Twist the driveshaft clock- CM165C
wise as it enters the seal area and while it is being
8. Place the crankshaft end bearings into position
pushed through the seals.
making sure the bearing retaining pin hole is posi-
tioned inward.
„NOTE: The bearing retaining pin hole is the hole
that does not go entirely through the bearing case.

2-164
 CM043A CM036A
9. Lubricate the inner lips of the crankshaft oil seals
with grease; then slide the seals onto the crank-
shaft making sure the spring side of each seal faces
inward.
10. Apply oil to the crankshaft bearings; then install
the crankshaft into the upper crankcase half. Be
2
sure the alignment hole in each bearing is posi-
tioned over its respective dowel pin in the crank-
case; then seat the crankshaft.

CM166

„NOTE: Use only Arctic Cat High-Temp Sealant (p/

n 0636-069) to seal the crankcase halves.

12. Assemble the crankcase halves making sure that

the crankshaft gear and oil-injection pump drive-
shaft gears mesh. Rotate the crankshaft one full
turn to align the crankshaft gear and pump drive-
shaft.
CM045A 13. Install the crankcase cap screws securing the
crankcase halves.
„ NOTE: To check the bearing for proper position,
place the point of a sharp tool into the dimple 14. Tighten cap screws (1-10) in three steps to specifi-
found in the bearing race. Strike the tool with the cations using the appropriate pattern shown.
palm of the hand in either direction. If the bearing
moves, it isn’t positioned correctly and must be 800 cc
rotated until it drops onto the dowel pin.

! CAUTION
If the bearings are not properly seated during
assembly, the crankcase halves will not seal tightly
and severe engine damage will result.

11. Position the two center seal rings with their end
gaps 180° apart (up on one and down on the
other); then apply a thin coat of High-Temp Seal-
ant (p/n 0636-069) to the entire bottom half of the
crankcase sealing surface. 742-198A

2-165
 1000 cc
! CAUTION
Be sure the oil-injection pump/water pump drive-
shaft is properly aligned with the slot of the oil-injec-
tion pump. The pump will be damaged if these two
components are not aligned.

19. Install the oil-injection hoses and secure with the

clamps; then place the lower union assembly into
position and secure with new gaskets and union
cap screw. Tighten to specifications.

742-197A
15. On the 800 cc, tighten cap screw (11) in three steps
to specifications; then turn the engine right-side up
and tighten cap screws (12-15) in three steps to
specifications.
16. On the 1000 cc, tighten cap screws (11-13) in three
steps to specifications; then tighten cap screw (14)
in three steps to specifications.
„NOTE: Secure the connecting rods with rubber
hoses.

17. Install the oil-injection pump retainer with a new CM153A

O-ring. ! CAUTION
Assure that a new gasket is in place on each side of
the union prior to securing the union cap screw to
the crankcase.

20. Secure the intake flanges, reed valve assemblies,

and gaskets with cap screws; then in a crisscross
pattern, tighten to specifications.
21. Install the coolant temperature sensor and tighten
securely; then secure the sensor wire to the sensor
with a cable tie.

FC082
18. Install the O-ring and the oil-injection pump mak-
ing sure the pump shaft slot (A) and pump driven
gear shaft (B) align. Secure with two screws
(coated with blue Loctite #243). Tighten the two
screws to specifications.

CM172
22. Position the ceramic/rubber seal into the back side
of the water pump impeller with the ceramic face
of the seal directed out.

CM167A

2-166
 CM168 CM171B
23. Using both thumbs, press the seal into position „NOTE: Sealant is only required on the crankcase
making sure its marked side is positioned towards seam.
the rubber seal cup; then apply a thin coat of
grease to the seal outer surface.
26. Apply a thin film of low-temp grease to the water
pump cover O-ring; then position the O-ring into
the water pump cover. With the alignment pins in
2
place, install the cover. Secure with seven screws
using the pattern shown. Tighten to specifications.

CM169
24. Place the impeller into position and secure with a
cap screw and washer. Be sure the rubber side of
the washer is directed toward the impeller. Apply
blue Loctite #243 to the threads of the cap screw 0742-257
and tighten to specifications.
27. With the bypass valve of the thermostat directed to
the 12 o’clock position, install the thermostat and
! CAUTION housing; then in a crisscross pattern, tighten the
The rubber side of the washer, which secures the cap screws to specifications.
impeller, must be positioned toward the impeller. If
installed incorrectly, a coolant leak will result.

25. Apply high-temperature sealant to the crankcase/

water pump cover seam; then install the dowel
pins into the crankcase.

CM157A

CM171A

2-167
 31. Place each piston over the connecting rod so the
indicator dot on each piston will point toward the
intake/exhaust ports; then secure with an oiled pis-
ton pin.
„NOTE: The indicator dot is found on the piston
dome.

CM155A
28. Place the cylinder base gasket into position on the
crankcase.
29. Install the piston rings on each piston so the letter
on the top (inclined surface) of each ring faces the
dome of the piston.
CM173
32. Install the new circlips so the open end is directed
either up or down.

726-306A

! CAUTION
Incorrect installation of the piston rings will result in
engine damage. CM174

30. Apply oil to the connecting-rod small end bear- ! CAUTION

ings; then install the small-end bearings. Install a Make sure the circlips are firmly seated and the open
washer on each side of the connecting rod. end is directed either up or down before continuing
„NOTE: The shoulder side of the washer must with assembly.
seat to the needle bearing. 33. Rotate each piston ring until the ring ends are
properly positioned on either side of the ring
keeper; then apply oil to the piston assemblies and
cylinder bores. Remove the rubber hoses from the
connecting rods.
34. In turn on each cylinder, place a piston holder (or
suitable substitute) beneath the piston skirt and
square the piston in respect to the crankcase; then
using a ring compressor or the fingers, compress
the rings and slide the cylinder over the piston.
Remove the piston holder and seat the cylinder
firmly onto the crankcase.
„NOTE: The cylinders should slide on easily. DO
CM172A
NOT force the pistons into the cylinders.

2-168
 CM148 FC077
35. Secure each cylinder by installing the four nuts 38. Place new O-rings onto each of the head cap
and four new cap screws. DO NOT TIGHTEN AT screws. Place four of these cap screws (from oppo-
THIS TIME. site end of each other) into the cylinder head.
Thread the spark plugs in part way; then while
2
„NOTE: Always use new cap screws when install- holding the head above the cylinder, carefully start
ing the cylinders. and finger-tighten all four cap screws while
observing the cylinder O-rings to make sure they
36. Secure the cylinders (from step 35) by tightening remain in position. Slowly place the head into
the cylinder base nuts and cap screws to specifica- position on top of the O-rings.
tions in three steps using the appropriate pattern
shown.

800 cc

CM175

0738-206 „NOTE: On the 800 cc prior to starting the remain-

ing cap screws, the spark plugs must be removed.
1000 cc
39. Start and finger-tighten the remaining cap screws
being very careful not to move the cylinder head;
then tighten the cap screws in two steps to specifi-
cations using the appropriate pattern shown.

800 cc

0738-220
37. Install the two cylinder O-rings on the top of each
cylinder making sure they are correctly positioned
in the grooves.

0742-200

2-169
 1000 cc

0742-199 CM143A

„NOTE: At this point on the 800 cc, install the 43. Secure the upper ignition timing sensor with cap
spark plugs; then on both models, tighten the
screws (coated with blue Loctite #243). Tighten
securely; then install the wiring grommet into the
spark plugs to specifications. notch of the crankcase.
„NOTE: At this point on the 800 cc, install the
knock sensor with the lock plate, tighten the sen-
sor securely, and bend the lock plate tabs up.

40. With the raised edge of the valve aligned with the
channel of the cylinder, slide the APV assemblies
into position in the cylinders; then secure with cap
screws (coated with blue Loctite #243). Tighten to
specifications.

CM176A
44. Secure the lower ignition timing sensor with two
cap screws (A) (coated with blue Loctite #243).
Tighten securely; then install the grommet. With
the stator harness properly positioned, install the
plate and cap screw (B) (coated with blue Loctite
#243). Tighten securely.

CM204

„NOTE: At this point, pressure test the engine

(see Section 3).

41. Secure the stator plate to the crankcase with the

Allen-head cap screws (coated with blue Loctite
#243) and tightened to specifications.
42. Route the stator harness through the opening in the
crankcase; then secure the stator to the stator plate
with the Allen-head cap screws (coated with blue
Loctite #243). Tighten to specifications. CM177A
45. Install the key in the crankshaft.
46. Place the starter pulley in position on the flywheel;
then loosely secure the starter pulley with three
cap screws (coated with red Loctite #243). While
holding the starter pulley, slide the flywheel onto
the crankshaft making sure the keyways match.

2-170
 CM180 CM144A

„NOTE: Before installing the flywheel, be sure to 50. Install the coolant inlet hose to the cylinder head
wipe the crankshaft and flywheel tapers clean
and water pump; then tighten the hose clamps
securely.
using a clean towel.

47. Apply red Loctite #271 to the threads of the fly-

wheel cap screw; then finger-tighten with a large
2
flat washer. DO NOT TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME.

CM181

Installing Engine
FC080
48. Secure the starter pulley while using the spanner 1. Install the throttle body hose (A), inlet hose (B),
wrench and tighten the three cap screws (from step and the front heat exchanger hose (C) to the
46) evenly to specifications. engine; then secure with the hose clamps.

FC081 FS187B
49. Using the spanner wrench, tighten the flywheel
cap screw (from step 47) to specifications. „NOTE: At this time if the coolant temperature
sensor was removed, install the sensor and
„NOTE: On the 1000 cc with alignment pins in tighten securely.
place, install the magneto case on the crankcase
with the cap screws. Tighten cap screws to specifi-
cations.

2-171
 2. Place the engine into the engine compartment 4. Position the engine to the chassis mounts; then
from the MAG-side; then tip the engine forward install cap screw (E) securing the MAG-side
and support the engine in this position. mounting bracket to the chassis. Tighten cap screw
to specifications.
! CAUTION 5. Release the tie-down securing the engine/pin-
When installing the engine, take care not to damage ion bracket in the forward position; then posi-
the oil pump or the APV cables. tion the engine to the bracket and secure with
four cap screws (D) (coated with green Loctite
#609). Tighten to specifications.
„NOTE: At this point prior to installing the PTO-
side engine mounting bracket, install the coolant
hose to the thermostat housing and secure with
the clamp.

! CAUTION
Position the hose clamp screw so it is directed to the
12 o’clock position of the thermostat housing to
avoid contacting the chassis.

FS186
3. Install the MAG-side engine mounting bracket to
the engine with the two cap screws (F) (coated
with blue Loctite #243). Tighten to specifications.

800 cc

FS217A
6. Position the torque bumper against the gear case;
then install the PTO-side engine mounting bracket.
„NOTE: Prior to installing the bracket, assure that
the U-nut clip is centered in position.

742-201A

1000 cc

FS195A
7. Using the appropriate illustration following step 3,
install the cap screw and lock nut (A) and the
lower cap screw (B) securing the PTO-side bracket
to the chassis; then install the four cap screws (C)
(coated with blue Loctite #243) securing the
742-213A bracket to the engine. Tighten all mounting hard-
ware to specifications.

2-172
 8. Connect the coolant hose to the outlet of the front
heat exchanger and secure with the hose clamp.

FS210
12. On the LXR, install the starter motor using the fol-
lowing sequence:
FS196A
9. Route the ignition harness and the coolant temper- A. Place the flex-drive shaft into position on the
ature sensor two-wire connector between the cool-
ant tank hose and the chassis; then secure the
ignition harness to the coolant hose with a cable tie
pinion driveshaft so the set screws are aligned
with the flat-side of the pinion driveshaft. 2
in the position as noted in removing.

FS204
B. Place the starter motor with bracket into posi-
FS197 tion on the chassis and upper frame; then secure
„NOTE: Prior to connecting the harness, it is with the cap screws and lock nuts. Tighten
advisable to clean all plug-ins with contact cleaner.
securely.
„NOTE: For installing purposes, it may be neces-
10. Connect all ignition/main harness plug-ins and the sary to loosen the lock nut securing the bracket to
two-wire connector; then install the harness wrap. the starter motor.

C. Place the positive and negative cables on the

starter motor; then secure with the lock nuts.
Tighten securely.

FS181
11. Place the recoil starter into position and secure the
starter with six cap screws. In a crisscross pattern,
tighten to specifications.
FS205A

2-173
 ! CAUTION
If the bracket/starter motor lock nut was loosened for
installing purposes, tighten the lock nut securely.

13. Install the throttle body assembly and secure with

the flange clamps; then connect the oil pump con-
trol rod and the oil hose.

FS198A
16. Apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone
sealant to each exhaust port; then install the
exhaust gaskets.
17. Apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone
sealant to the mating surfaces of the exhaust mani-
fold; then install the exhaust manifold and secure
with the eight nuts. Using the pattern shown,
FS209A
tighten to specifications.

FS179A 0742-292

„NOTE: Check to be sure the mark on the control 18. Route the gasline hose to the throttle body assem-
arm is aligned with alignment mark on the oil- bly and secure the hose to the fuel rail. Tighten the
injection pump boss in the full-open position. If the
clamp securely.
marks are not aligned, adjust synchronization by
loosening the jam nuts on the adjuster. Rotate the ! CAUTION
jam nuts/adjuster nut until proper alignment is When installing the throttle bodies, make sure the
attained. Tighten jam nuts. gasline hose is properly routed to avoid premature
wear and/or contact with exhaust components.
„ NOTE: When the cable/linkage adjusting nut is
adjusted correctly, the throttle lever will move 19. Connect the coolant overflow hose to the cylinder
approximately 3.2 mm (1/8 in.) before the oil-injec- head; then connect the spark plug wires to the
tion pump arm begins to move. spark plugs.
14. Remove the oil bleed plug from the oil injection „NOTE: On the 800 cc, connect the knock sensor
pump. When oil flows from pump free of air bub- wiring to the wiring harness; then secure the con-
bles and the hose is full of oil, install the oil bleed nector to the coolant filler neck bracket with the
plug and tighten. push-mount cable tie.
„NOTE: It is advisable to place a cloth beneath the
oil-injection pump to contain any oil spilled during
the bleeding process.

15. Connect the two throttle body coolant hoses to the

PTO-side and MAG-side throttle body and secure
with the clamps.

2-174
 FS212A FS175

„NOTE: At this point, secure the coolant hose, „NOTE: Prior to installing the drive clutch, be sure
gasline hose, and on the LXR, the battery cables to wipe both the crankshaft taper and clutch
together. mounting taper clean using a clean towel.

22. Place the drive clutch into position on the crank-

shaft and secure with the cap screw and lock
2
washer. Tighten to specifications.
„NOTE: On the 1000 cc to aid in proper tightening
of the drive clutch cap screw, apply oil to the
threads of the cap screw prior to installing.

! CAUTION
When installing the drive clutch, do not tighten the
clutch cap screw with any kind of impact tool.
Tighten cap screw using a hand torque wrench only.
FS214A
Failure to do so could result in stationary sheave
damage.
20. Rotate the servomotor clockwise to remove any
slack from the cables.
23. Install the alignment washers; then install the
21. Slide the APV cable drums into the servomotor driven pulley on the gear case input shaft. Tighten
actuator; then place the cable housings into posi- the cap screw to 4.4 kg-m (32 ft-lb).
tion in the servomotor. Secure with the cable
holder and the servomotor retaining clip. Check ! CAUTION
APV cable adjustment. See Arctic Power Valve
(APV) System in Section 3. It is critical that no less than two 1.5 mm (0.060 in.)
washers are in place on the input shaft when install-
ing the driven pulley.

FS176

FS192
24. Check drive clutch/driven pulley alignment (see
Section 8). Install the drive belt. Check belt deflec-
tion. Secure the belt guard.

2-175
25. Secure the bearing bracket/steering post assembly 27. Place the front bumper assembly (with spar pan-
to the upper support plate with the bracket plates els) into position on the snowmobile; then secure
and cap screws (coated with blue Loctite #243). the front and rear spar panels together with the
Tighten the cap screws to 1.1 kg-m (8 ft-lb). torx-head cap screws and lock nuts (A). Tighten
the lock nuts securely.

FS182A
742-207A
„NOTE: When installing the bracket plates, the
wider end of the plate must be directed up.
28. Install the body screws and lock nuts (C) from
each side and the self-tapping screws (B) from
each side securing the front bumper assembly to
the chassis. Tighten all hardware securely.
29. Connect the air temperature sensor and place the
sensor harness beneath the air-intake duct; then
install the duct into the silencer.
„NOTE: To aid in installing the duct, it can be help-
ful to apply a thin film of WD-40 to the air silencer
seal and to work the duct back and forth until the
sleeve of the duct is properly seated into the
silencer.

FS200A
! CAUTION
26. Install the air silencer onto the throttle bodies mak- Make sure to place the sensor harness beneath the
ing sure the dual intake boot is properly positioned air-intake duct to avoid contact with exhaust compo-
and seated. nents.

„NOTE: To aid in installing the air silencer, it can 30. Secure the air-intake duct to the upper frame with
be helpful to remove the air silencer cover and the cap screw. Tighten securely.
work the intake boot over the throttle body from
inside the silencer. „NOTE: If the ECU was removed to gain access to
the air-intake duct cap screw, install the ECU using
the two lock nuts. Tighten the lock nuts securely;
then connect the harness plug-ins to the ECU.

FS201A

FS202A

2-176
31. Using the illustration following step 27, secure the 37. Place the console into position on the headlight
left-side rear spar panel to the gas tank and support support bracket (do not secure the console with the
tube with the three torx-head screws (D). Tighten torx-head screws at this time); then connect the
the screws securely. console/main harness plug-in.
32. Install the seat; then install the machine screw 38. Install and close the left-side and right-side access
(threads coated with blue Loctite #243) to the right panels and the hood.
side of the seat support.
39. Start the engine and warm up to operating temper-
ature; then verify that all components are function-
! CAUTION ing properly and that coolant is circulating through
It is critical that machine screw is not installed tight the cooling system properly.
against the seat support. The screw must be loose
enough to be effective as a seat “stop.” ! CAUTION
33. Fill the cooling system (see Liquid Cooling Sys- Never run the engine with the hood harness discon-
tem in Section 3). nected or damage to the electrical system will result.

34. Place the rubber exhaust bumper into position on ! CAUTION

the air silencer. After running the engine to the proper operating tem-
perature, shut the engine off; then open the hood
2
and access panels and inspect for any signs of cool-
ant, gasoline, or oil leakage.

40. Allow the engine to cool; then check the coolant

level and add coolant as necessary.
41. Verify the tightening torque of the drive clutch.
42. Secure the console to the steering support with the
torx-head screws and tighten the screws securely;
then close the left-side and right-side access panels
and close the hood.
FS203A

„NOTE: On the LXR, secure the negative battery

cable to the battery.

35. Install the exhaust resonator and secure to the

upper frame with the tab washer and the hairpin
clip.
36. Place gaskets on the resonator and exhaust mani-
fold; then install the expansion chamber. Secure
the chamber to manifold and upper frame with the
springs.
„NOTE: When installing the exhaust manifold 741-722A
springs, the long hook portion of the spring must
! CAUTION
be attached to the exhaust manifold or premature
spring failure will result. If the engine had a major overhaul or if any major
component was replaced, proper engine break-in
procedures must be followed. If the proper engine
break-in procedures are not followed, severe engine
damage may result.

2-177
Troubleshooting Engine
(Carbureted Models)

Problem: Engine Does Not Start (No Spark at Spark Plugs)

Condition Remedy
1. Ignition switch malfunctioning — not in RUN position 1. Replace ignition switch — turn switch to RUN position
2. Wiring harness shorting — connection poor 2. Repair — connect — replace wiring harness
3. Emergency stop switch knob in DOWN position — 3. Move knob to UP position — replace throttle switch
malfunctioning
4. Throttle/ignition monitor switch adjusted too tight — 4. Adjust (loosen) throttle cable — replace throttle switch
malfunctioning
5. Carburetor safety switches adjusted incorrectly — 5. Adjust — replace carburetor safety switches
malfunctioning
6. Spark plugs fouled — damaged 6. Clean — gap — replace spark plugs
7. Spark-plug caps damaged — leaking — shorting 7. Replace spark-plug caps
8. High tension wires/coil loose — grounded — faulty 8. Service — replace high tension wires/coil
9. CDI unit faulty 9. Replace CDI unit
10. Charge coil (1) faulty 10. Replace coil
11. Charge coil (2) faulty 11. Replace coil
12. Flywheel magnets weak 12. Replace flywheel
13. Flywheel key sheared 13. Replace key
Problem: Engine Does Not Start (No Fuel at Cylinders)
Condition Remedy
1. Gas tank empty 1. Fill tank
2. Shut-off valve closed 2. Open shut-off valve
3. Fuel hose broken — pinched 3. Replace — service hose
4. Gas-tank vent — hose obstructed 4. Remove obstruction — replace vent — hose
5. In-line fuel filter obstructed — damaged 5. Remove obstruction — replace in-line fuel filter
6. Fuel pump malfunctioning — faulty 6. Replace — repair — clean fuel pump
7. Impulse hose cracked — broken — pinched — dis- 7. Replace — connect impulse hose
connected
8. Carburetors adjusted incorrectly — dirty — damaged 8. Troubleshoot — clean — replace carburetors
9. Primary compression (crankcase) absent 9. Repair — replace damaged — worn engine compo-
nents

2-178
Problem: Engine Overheats
Condition Remedy
1. Spark plug heat range too hot 1. Install lower heat-range spark plugs
2. Coolant low — absent 2. Add coolant
3. Carburetors adjusted incorrectly — jetted incorrectly 3. Troubleshoot — clean carburetors — jet correctly
— dirty
4. Carburetor-to-cylinder air leak 4. Replace — repair gaskets — intake flanges — service
intake ports
5. Heat exchangers no snow for cooling 5. Select new trail — install ice studs to chew up hard
packed snow and ice
6. Rings/grooves carboned 6. Clean — replace rings — pistons
7. Exhaust ports obstructed 7. Remove obstruction
8. Muffler obstructed 8. Remove obstruction
9. Gas/air mixture incorrect 9. Replace jets — adjust jet needle E-clip position
10. Oil-injection pump malfunctioning — adjusted incor- 10. Replace — bleed — adjust oil-injection pump 2
rectly
11. Primary compression (crankcase) low — absent 11. Repair — replace damaged — worn engine compo-
nents
12. Ignition timing adjusted incorrectly 12. Time ignition
13. Gasoline octane too low 13. Use 87 minimum octane gasoline
14. Water pump — thermostat damaged — faulty 14. Replace — rebuild water pump — replace thermostat
Problem: Engine Backfires
Condition Remedy
1. Throttle/ignition monitor switch adjusted incorrectly 1. Adjust throttle cable free-play — service spring
2. Spark plugs fouled — damaged 2. Clean — gap — replace spark plugs
3. Spark plug heat range too hot 3. Install lower heat-range spark plugs
4. High tension wires/coil shorting 4. Service — replace high tension wires/coil
5. Carburetor-to-cylinder air leak 5. Repair — replace gaskets — intake flanges service
intake ports
6. Carburetors adjusted incorrectly — dirty — damaged 6. Troubleshoot — tighten carburetors
— loose
7. Gas/air mixture incorrect — too lean 7. Adjust jetting
8. Oil-injection pump malfunctioning — adjusted incor- 8. Replace — bleed — adjust oil-injection pump
rectly
Problem: Engine Four-Cycles (Floods Excessively)
Condition Remedy
1. Carburetors adjusted incorrectly — dirty — damaged 1. Troubleshoot — clean carburetors
2. Gas/air mixture incorrect 2. Adjust jetting
3. Oil-injection pump malfunctioning — adjusted incor- 3. Replace — bleed — adjust oil-injection pump
rectly
4. Air-intake silencer obstructed 4. Remove obstruction

2-179
Problem: Engine Stops Gradually
Condition Remedy
1. In-line fuel filter obstructed — damaged 1. Remove obstruction — replace in-line fuel filter
2. Fuel hose obstructed — broken — pinched 2. Remove obstruction — replace — repair fuel hose
3. Head gasket(s) burned out 3. Replace head gasket(s) — service cylinders — head
4. Cylinder head loosening 4. Tighten cylinder head cap screws
5. Spark plugs loose 5. Tighten spark plugs
6. Impulse hose cracked 6. Replace impulse hose
7. High tension wires/coil faulty 7. Service — replace high tension wires/coil
Problem: Engine Stops Suddenly
Condition Remedy
1. In-line fuel filter obstructed — damaged 1. Remove obstruction — replace in-line fuel filter
2. Fuel hose obstructed — broken — pinched 2. Remove obstruction — repair — replace fuel hose
3. CDI unit faulty 3. Replace CDI unit
4. Ignition coil faulty 4. Replace ignition coil
5. Charge coil (1) faulty 5. Replace coil
6. Charge coil (2) faulty 6. Replace coil
7. Gas-tank vent — hose obstructed — damaged 7. Remove obstruction — replace vent — hose
8. Engine seized 8. Service engine
9. Throttle/ignition monitor switch faulty — throttle 9. Replace throttle control — adjust throttle cable free-
cable adjusted incorrectly play — adjust — connect — replace carburetor safety
switches
Problem: Engine Fails to Stop (Continues to Run, Even with All Switches Off)
Condition Remedy
1. CDI unit shorted to ground 1. Replace CDI unit
2. Main wiring harness four-prong connector discon- 2. Connect four-prong connector
nected

2-180
 Troubleshooting
Engine
(EFI Models)

Problem: Engine Does Not Start (No Spark at Spark Plugs)

Condition Remedy
1. Ground connections dirty — loose 1. Check all ground connections — clean and tight
2. Throttle/ignition monitor switch malfunctioning — 2. Replace faulty switch — turn switch on
ignition switch not on
3. Wiring harness shorting — disconnected 3. Repair — replace — connect wiring harness
4. Emergency stop switch in DOWN position — mal- 4. Move switch to UP position — replace throttle control
functioning

2
5. Throttle/ignition monitor switch malfunctioning 5. Adjust throttle cable tension — replace throttle body
assembly
6. Spark plugs fouled — damaged 6. Clean — replace spark plugs
7. Spark-plug caps damaged — leaking — shorting 7. Replace spark-plug caps
8. High tension leads/coil loose — grounded — faulty 8. Service — replace high tension leads/coil
9. ECU/CCU faulty 9. Replace ECU/CCU
10. Ignition timing sensor faulty 10. Replace sensor
Problem: Engine Does Not Start (No Fuel at Cylinders)
Condition Remedy
1. Gas tank empty 1. Fill tank
2. Injector dropping resistor faulty 2. Replace dropping resistor
3. Fuel pressure regulator faulty 3. Replace regulator — hose
4. Gasoline contaminated 4. Replace gasoline
5. Fuel pump faulty 5. Service — replace fuel pump — connections — wires
6. Fuel hose broken — pinched 6. Replace — service hose
7. Gas-tank vent — hose obstructed 7. Remove obstruction — replace vent — hose
8. Pick-up valve(s) obstructed — damaged 8. Remove obstruction — replace pick-up valve(s)
9. Primary compression absent 9. Repair — replace damaged — worn engine compo-
nents
10. ECU/CCU faulty 10. Replace ECU/CCU
Problem: Engine Does Not Start (Fuel Does Not Ignite)
Condition Remedy
1. ECU/CCU LED trouble code 1. Service — replace problem component
2. Spark absent 2. Check for spark — see No Spark at Spark Plugs sub-
section
3. Primary compression low 3. Service engine
4. Secondary compression low 4. Service engine
5. Engine flooded 5. Clear engine (hold throttle full-open)
6. Gasoline contaminated 6. Clean tank and entire fuel system

2-181
Problem: Engine Does Not Idle
Condition Remedy
1. ECU/CCU LED trouble code 1. Service — replace problem component
2. Throttle position sensor idle adjustment incorrect 2. Adjust idle RPM to specifications
3. Injector(s) faulty 3. Replace injector(s)
4. Fuel pressure regulator faulty 4. Replace regulator — hose
5. Air-intake silencer obstructed 5. Clean air-intake silencer
Problem: Engine Loses Power or Runs on One Cylinder
Condition Remedy
1. Sensor faulty 1. Check LED for trouble code — repair — replace prob-
lem circuit or sensor
2. Spark plug fouled 2. Replace spark plugs
3. External coil faulty 3. Service — replace coil
4. Gas tank vent — hose obstructed 4. Service — replace vent hose
5. Secondary compression low 5. Service engine
6. Fuel pressure regulator faulty 6. Replace regulator
7. Pick-up valve(s) obstructed — out of position 7. Replace — relocate pick-up valve(s)
8. Oil-injection pump malfunctioning — adjusted incor- 8. Replace — bleed — adjust oil-injection pump
rectly
9. Throttle bodies out of synchronization 9. Replace throttle bodies from a similar engine — if prob-
lem is corrected, replace the original assembly
10. Injector faulty 10. Replace injector
11. Dropping resistor faulty 11. Test resistor — replace as necessary
Problem: Engine Overheats
Condition Remedy
1. Spark plug heat range too hot 1. Install lower heat-range spark plugs
2. Coolant low — absent 2. Add coolant
3. Heat exchanger obstructed 3. Remove obstruction
4. Intake flange to cylinder air leak 4. Replace — seal intake flange(s)
5. Drive system (drive clutch — driven pulley — track 5. Troubleshoot — adjust drive system
— drive belt) adjusted incorrectly — worn — damaged
6. Rings/grooves carboned 6. Clean — replace rings — pistons
7. Exhaust ports obstructed 7. Remove obstruction
8. Expansion chamber obstructed 8. Remove obstruction
9. Oil-injection pump malfunctioning — adjusted incor- 9. Replace — bleed — adjust oil-injection pump
rectly
10. Primary compression low — absent 10. Repair — replace damaged — worn engine compo-
nents
11. Gasoline octane too low 11. Use 87 minimum octane gasoline
12. Water pump — thermostat damaged — faulty 12. Replace water pump — thermostat

2-182
Problem: Engine Backfires
Condition Remedy
1. ECU/CCU LED trouble code 1. Service — replace problem component
2. Throttle/ignition monitor switch adjusted incorrectly 2. Adjust throttle cable tension — service spring
3. Spark plugs fouled — damaged 3. Clean — replace spark plugs
4. High tension leads/coil shorting 4. Service — replace high tension leads/coil
5. ECU/CCU faulty — damaged 5. Replace ECU/CCU
6. Fuel mixture lean 6. Repair fuel regulator — injector(s)
7. Oil-injection pump malfunctioning — adjusted incor- 7. Replace — bleed — adjust oil-injection pump
rectly
Problem: Engine Four-Cycles (Floods Excessively)
Condition Remedy

2
1. ECU LED trouble code 1. Service — replace problem component
2. Fuel pressure too high 2. Replace regulator — hose
3. Injector faulty 3. Replace injector
4. Throttle position sensor faulty 4. Replace throttle body assembly
5. Air-intake silencer obstructed 5. Remove obstruction
Problem: Engine Stops Suddenly
Condition Remedy
1. Gas tank empty 1. Fill tank
2. Spark absent 2. See No Spark at Spark Plugs sub-section
3. ECU/CCU LED trouble code 3. Service — replace problem component
4. CDI relay faulty 4. Replace CDI relay
5. Fuel filter(s) obstructed 5. Replace filter(s)
6. Fuel pressure low 6. Replace regulator — hose
7. Fuel pump faulty 7. Service — replace fuel pump
8. Fuel pump relay faulty 8. Replace relay
9. Gas tank vent hose obstructed 9. Service vent hose
10. ECU/CCU faulty 10. Replace ECU/CCU
11. Fuel hose obstructed — broken — pinched 11. Remove obstruction — repair — replace fuel hose
12. Ignition coil faulty 12. Replace ignition coil
13. Engine seized 13. Service engine
14. Throttle/ignition monitor switch — throttle cable 14. Replace throttle control — adjust throttle cable
tension faulty — adjusted incorrectly
Problem: Engine Fails to Stop (Continues to Run, Even with All Switches Off)
Condition Remedy
1. ECU/CCU shorted to ground 1. Replace ECU/CCU
2. Engine wiring harness connections wet 2. Clean — dry connections

2-183
 SECTION 3 —
ENGINE-RELATED ITEMS

TABLE OF
CONTENTS

Axial Fan/Belt (370 cc) ............................................ 3-2

Repairing Water Pump (500/600 cc) ....................... 3-4
Repairing Water Pump (800/1000 cc) ..................... 3-8
Pressure Testing Engine ....................................... 3-12
Liquid Cooling System .......................................... 3-12
Cooling System Schematics ................................. 3-15
Recoil Starter (370/500/600 cc) ............................ 3-17
Recoil Starter (570/800/1000 cc) .......................... 3-19
Arctic Power Valve (APV) System ......................... 3-22
Exhaust Controlled Timing (ECT) System ............ 3-29

3-1
 Axial Fan/Belt
(370 cc)

REMOVING FAN

1. Remove the four cap screws securing the recoil

starter to the fan case.
2. Remove the three cap screws securing the recoil
starter pulley and fan drive pulley to the flywheel;
then remove the recoil starter pulley and fan drive
pulley. A910

3. Remove the cap screws and flange nuts securing „NOTE: A circlip is positioned between the bear-
the fan case assembly to the engine; then remove ings. The bearings must be driven from the center
the fan case from the engine compartment. to the outside of the fan case.

DISASSEMBLING 6. Remove the circlip from the fan case.

1. Remove the fan cover; then remove the belt.

2. Using the Fan Spanner Wrench (p/n 0644-139),
remove the nut, lock washer, and washer securing
pulley halves.

A911

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
AB102
necessary.
3. Slide the outer pulley half, shim(s), fan belt, and
inner pulley half off the shaft and account for the 1. Clean all axial fan components.
key and the fan belt.
2. Inspect the fan case and shaft threaded areas for
damage or stripped threads; then check the shaft
keyway and key for excessive wear.
3. Inspect the fan for broken, bent, or damaged
vanes.
4. Inspect the bearings for smooth rotation.
5. Inspect the pulley halves for cracks, gouges, or
other damage.
6. Inspect the fan belt for cracks, tears, or fraying.

A908
4. Remove the fan with shaft.
5. Drive the bearings from the fan case and account
for the spacer between the bearings.

3-2
ASSEMBLING 7. Using the fan spanner wrench, secure the pulley
with a washer, lock washer, and nut. Tighten the
KEY
nut to 2.5-4 kg-m (18-29 ft-lb).
1. Drive Pulley
2. Belt INSTALLING FAN
3. Pulley Half
4. Shim 1. Place the fan case assembly on the engine; then
5. Washer secure with flange nuts and cap screws. Tighten
6. Lock Washer the flange nuts to 1.8-2.2 kg-m (13-16 ft-lb).
7. Nut Tighten the cap screws to 0.4-0.7 kg-m (3-5 ft-lb).
8. Bearing
9. Circlip 2. Place the new fan belt into position on the upper
10. Spacer
pulley.
11. Key
12. Fan Assy
3. Place the fan drive pulley onto the fan belt and
13.
14.
Shaft
Fan
align one of its holes with one of the mounting
15. Cap Screw
holes in the flywheel; then start a cap screw into
the aligned holes and finger-tighten.
0739-354
1. Install the circlip into the groove of the fan case. 4. Rotate the fan drive pulley clockwise while
observing the other two holes in the pulley. When
they align with the two holes in the flywheel, start
the remaining two mounting cap screws.
5. Tighten the three cap screws only to position the
fan drive pulley on the flywheel; then remove the
three cap screws and install the recoil starter pul-
3
ley. Apply red Loctite #271 to the threads of the
three cap screws and install them into the fly-
wheel. Tighten the three cap screws evenly to 0.8-
1.2 kg-m (6-9 ft-lb).
6. Check the fan belt tension. Adjust as necessary.
7. Install the fan cover and secure with six screws.
A911
Tighten the screws to 1.1 kg-m (8 ft-lb).
2. Press a bearing into the fan case until it is seated
against the circlip. 8. Install the recoil starter. Secure with four cap
screws. Tighten to 1.1 kg-m (8 ft-lb).
3. From the opposite side of the fan case, install the
spacer and press the remaining bearing into the fan REPLACING FAN BELT
case until it is seated.
1. Remove the fan cover and the recoil starter.
„NOTE: The spacer is positioned between the two
fan-case bearings. 2. Remove the three cap screws securing the recoil
starter pulley and the fan drive pulley to the fly-
4. Insert the fan with shaft through the fan bearings. wheel.
5. Install the key into the shaft. 3. Remove the fan drive pulley and fan belt from the
engine.
6. Slide the inner pulley half, required shim(s), fan
belt, and outer pulley half onto the shaft. 4. Place the new fan belt into position on the upper
pulley.
5. Place the fan drive pulley onto the fan belt and
align one of its holes with one of the mounting
holes in the flywheel; then start a cap screw into
the aligned hole and finger-tighten.
6. Rotate the fan drive pulley clockwise while
observing the other two holes in the pulley. When
they align with the two holes in the flywheel, start
the remaining two cap screws.

A913

3-3
 7. Tighten the three cap screws only to position the
fan drive pulley on the flywheel; then remove the
three cap screws and install the recoil starter pul-
ley. Apply red Loctite #271 to the threads of the
three cap screws and install into the flywheel.
Tighten the three cap screws evenly to 0.8-1.2
kg-m (6-9 ft-lb).

B075
3. Install the fan cover. Tighten the screws to 1.1 kg-
m (8 ft-lb).
ADJUSTING BELT TENSION

1. Remove the fan cover.

AB040 2. Using the fan spanner wrench, remove the nut,
„NOTE: With the new belt installed, check fan belt lock washer, and washer securing the pulley
tension (see Checking Belt Tension).
halves.
3. Slide the outer pulley half off the shaft and
8. Install the fan cover. Tighten the screws to 1.1 kg- account for any shim(s).
m (8 ft-lb). Install the recoil starter. Tighten the
cap screws to 1.1 kg-m (8 ft-lb). 4. Add or remove shim(s) to attain correct belt ten-
sion.
CHECKING BELT TENSION
„NOTE: To increase belt tension, remove shim(s);
1. Remove the fan cover. to decrease belt tension, install shim(s).

5. Install the fan belt and the outer pulley half on the
shaft and, using the fan spanner wrench, secure
pulley with a washer, lock washer, and nut.
Tighten to 2.5-4 kg-m (18-29 ft-lb).
6. Recheck belt tension; adjust if necessary.
7. Install fan cover. Tighten the screws to 1.1 kg-m (8
ft-lb).

Repairing Water Pump

(500/600 cc)
AB075
2. Squeeze the belt at midspan and observe the belt „NOTE: The engine must be removed for this pro-
deflection. The maximum belt deflection on either
side must not exceed 6 mm (1/4 in.). If the deflec- cedure (see Section 2).
tion is not within specifications, adjust the belt
tension. „NOTE: A bleed hole is located in the crankcase
beneath the water pump housing. If there are any
signs of coolant leakage from the bleed hole, the
water pump seals must be replaced. When servic-
ing the water pump, use Water Pump Bearing and
Seal Kit (p/n 0644-084).

3-4
 FS237A FC120
1. Remove the cap screws securing the water pump „NOTE: If the impeller will not slide off the shaft,
cover; then remove the cover and account for the start the cap screw into the shaft and tap on the cap
O-ring seal.
screw driving the shaft back out of the impeller.

FC118
2. Remove either lower union cap screw securing the FC121

lower check valve assembly. Remove the two cap 5. Remove the oil-injection pump retainer and shaft
screws securing the oil-injection pump and pull from the opposite side of the crankcase. Account
the oil pump from the engine. Leave the pump for the thrust washer located between the retainer
hose and cable attached. and shaft flange.
3. Remove the cap screw securing the impeller.
Account for the rubber washer behind the cap
screw.

FC122
6. Using the long seal driver, drive the water pump
mechanical seal from the crankcase.
FC119
4. Remove the impeller from the shaft.

3-5
 FC123 FC126A
7. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, remove the snap 3. Using a small screwdriver, apply a light coat of
ring securing the inner seal in the crankcase. grease to the inner seal lips.

FC124 FC127
8. Using the hooked end of the long seal driver, pull 4. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, install the snap
the inner seal free of the crankcase. ring securing the inner seal in the crankcase.
ASSEMBLING

1. Wipe the seal area clean using a clean rag.

FC128
5. Using the seal driver, carefully install the outer
water pump mechanical seal. Gently tap the seal
down into position until it seats itself against its
FC125 flange.
2. Position the inner seal onto the seal driver (spring
side towards the crankshaft). Gently tap into posi-
tion.

3-6
 FC129 FC131A
6. Apply a light coat of grease to the sealing surface „NOTE: After the oil pump has been secured,
of the oil-injection pump driveshaft; then install assure that the oil hoses from the pump and intake
Oil Seal Protector Tool (p/n 0644-219) at the end
of the shaft. Twist the shaft as it is pushed through flanges are routed properly.
the oil and water pump seals; then remove the tool.
9. Place the lower check valve into position; then
secure with the gaskets and union cap screw.
Tighten securely.
„NOTE: When installing the lower check valve,
assure that the gaskets are installed on each side
of the valve.
3
10. Place the impeller into position and secure with a
cap screw and washer. Be sure the rubber side of
the washer is directed towards the impeller. Apply
blue Loctite #243 to the threads of the cap screw
and tighten to 0.8-1.2 kg-m (6-9 ft-lb).

FS233A
7. Position the shim on the oil pump end of the shaft;
then with the O-ring installed on the retainer,
install the oil-injection pump retainer.

FC132
11. Apply sealant to the crankcase seam; then install
the alignment pins into the crankcase (if removed).

FC130A
8. With the O-ring in place on the oil-injection pump,
align the pump with the shaft; then install the
pump. Secure with two cap screws (coated with
blue Loctite #243). Tighten the two cap screws to
0.7 kg-m (5 ft-lb).

FC133A

3-7
„NOTE: It is important to not get sealant into the
breather hole in the crankcase. If sealant gets into
the hole, carefully remove before proceeding.

FS219A

„NOTE: When servicing the water pump, use

Water Pump Bearing and Seal Kit (p/n 0644-084)
FC072B
and Oil Seal Protector Tool (p/n 0644-219).
12. Position the O-ring into the water pump cover; then 1. Loosen the clamps securing the coolant hose to the
install the cover. Install the cap screws; then using water pump and cylinder head; then remove the
the pattern shown, tighten to 1.1 kg-m (8 ft-lb). hose.

FC134
FS222
2. Remove the seven cap screws securing the water
pump cover; then remove the cover and account
for the O-ring seal and two dowel pins.

0742-304

Repairing Water Pump

(800/1000 cc) FS223A
3. Remove the cap screw (A) securing the lower
check valve to the oil pump and account for the
„NOTE: The engine must be removed for this pro- two gaskets; then remove the two cap screws (B)
cedure (see Section 2). securing the oil pump to the engine. Remove the
pump.
„NOTE: A bleed hole is located in the crankcase
beneath the water pump housing. If there are any
signs of coolant leakage from the bleed hole, the
water pump seals must be replaced.

3-8
 FS220A FS225

„NOTE: Leave the two upper check valves secured „NOTE: If the impeller will not slide off the shaft,
to the pump. start the cap screw into the shaft and tap on the cap
screw driving the shaft back out of the impeller.

FS221A
4. Remove the cap screw securing the impeller. FC121
Account for the rubber washer and gasket behind 6. Remove the oil-injection pump retainer and shaft
the cap screw. from the opposite side of the crankcase. Account
for the thrust washer located between the retainer
and shaft flange.

FS224
5. Remove the impeller from the shaft.
FS226
7. Using the long seal driver, drive the water pump
mechanical seal from the crankcase.

3-9
 FS227 FS230
8. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, remove the snap 3. Apply a small amount of grease to the oil seal lips.
ring securing the oil seal in the crankcase.
4. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, install the snap
ring securing the oil seal in the crankcase.

FS228
9. Using the hooked end of the long seal driver, pull
the inner seal free of the crankcase. FS228
5. Using the seal driver, carefully install the outer
water pump mechanical seal. Gently tap the seal
down into position until it seats itself against the
crankcase.

FS229

ASSEMBLING

1. Thoroughly clean the seal surfaces of the crank- FS232

case. 6. Apply a light coat of grease to the sealing surface

of the oil-injection pump driveshaft; then install
2. Position the oil seal onto the seal driver (spring side Oil Seal Protector Tool (p/n 0644-219) at the end
towards the crankshaft). Gently tap into position. of the shaft. Twist the shaft as it is pushed through
the oil and water pump seals; then remove the tool.

3-10
 FS233 FS235A

„NOTE: After the oil pump has been secured,

assure that the oil hoses from the pump to the
intake flanges are routed properly.

9. Place the impeller into position and secure with a

cap screw and washer. Be sure the rubber side of
the washer is directed towards the impeller. Apply
blue Loctite #243 to the threads of the cap screw

3
and tighten to 1.1 kg-m (8 ft-lb).

FS234
7. Position the shim on the oil pump end of the shaft;
then with the O-ring installed on the retainer,
install the oil-injection pump retainer.
8. With the O-ring in place on the oil-injection pump,
align the pump with the shaft; then install the
pump. Secure with two cap screws. Tighten the
two cap screws to 0.7 kg-m (5 ft-lb). Place the
lower check valve into position; then secure with
the gaskets and cap screw (A). Tighten securely. FS225
10. Apply sealant to the crankcase seam; then install
the alignment pins into the crankcase (if removed).

FS220A

„NOTE: When installing the lower check valve,

assure that the gaskets are installed on each side FC133A
of the valve. 11. Position the O-ring into the water pump cover; then
install the cover. Install the cap screws; then using
the pattern shown, tighten to 1.1 kg-m (8 ft-lb).

3-11
 e. If the pressure drops faster than specified,
inspect for an air leak with soapy water or by
completely submerging the pressurized engine
in clean fresh water. Repair as needed.

! CAUTION
When submerging the engine to test for air leaks, all
external electrical components must be removed to
avoid damage.

Liquid Cooling System

0742-257

The liquid cooling system consists of heat exchangers,

Pressure Testing Engine water pump, coolant temperature sensor, and thermo-
stat. The system should be inspected for leaks or dam-
age whenever an overheating problem is experienced.
1. Test the engine for air leaks using the following
procedure and Compression/Pressure Tester Kit DRAINING COOLING SYSTEM
(p/n 0644-366). (Crossfire/M-Series)
a. Install a plug into each intake-manifold port 1. Using a piece of cardboard to protect the hood and
and tighten the flange clamps securely. belly pan, tip the snowmobile on its PTO-side.
b. Place a rubber plug and cover on each exhaust 2. From beneath the front end, remove the self-tap-
port and secure. ping screws securing the skid plate to the chassis.
c. Connect the tester pump to an impulse fitting 3. Loosen the clamp securing the throttle body cool-
on the crankcase; then plug any remaining ant hose to the water pump. Do not remove the
impulse fittings and pressurize the crankcase to hose from the water pump at this time.
8 psi and close the valve.

! CAUTION
DO NOT exceed 8 psi pressure or damage to the
seals will result.

CM201A

„NOTE: The hose clamp to loosen is from the ver-

tical fitting. Do not remove the hose from the 90°
fitting.

AN128D 4. Tip the snowmobile upright; then place a suitable

d. Monitor the pressure gauge. The pressure must drain pan beneath the engine. Remove the coolant
not drop at a rate of more than 1 psi per minute. hose from the water pump and allow the coolant to
drain.
5. After the coolant has completely drained, install
the coolant hose onto the water pump and secure
with the clamp.
6. Install the skid plate and secure with the self-tap-
ping screws.

3-12
DRAINING COOLING SYSTEM 2. Remove the coolant tank cap and check coolant
(F-Series) level. The coolant tank should be filled to the cool-
ant level line.
1. Open the hood and remove the left-side access
panel and the belt guard; then remove the torx- 3. Install the coolant tank cap; then start the engine.
head screws securing the console. Run the engine at 3000-3500 RPM until the bot-
tom heat exchangers become hot to the touch. Stop
the engine and allow the system to cool.
„NOTE: On the F-Series prior to starting the
engine, it is necessary to connect the console/
main harness plug-in and to place the console in
position. Do not secure the console with the torx-
head screws at this time.

4. Lower the front of the snowmobile and elevate the

rear of the snowmobile 12-14 in. Repeat the proce-
dures in step 3.
5. Check the coolant level. Add coolant as required
to the coolant tank (coolant tank should be filled to
741-722A
coolant level line). Repeat procedure until coolant
2. Lift the rear of the console and disconnect the con- level stabilizes in the coolant tank.
sole/main harness plug-in; then remove the console.
3. Using a small vise-grip pliers, clamp off the cool-
„NOTE: If coolant is required, mix coolant for a
temperature of -36°C (-34°F). Follow mixing recom- 3
ant hose connected to the PTO-side throttle body; mendations of the manufacturer of the coolant.
then loosen the hose clamp.
! CAUTION
It is extremely important that the Filling Cooling Sys-
tem procedure is followed very closely and the cool-
ing system is properly filled. If the system isn’t
properly filled, piston damage will occur.

„NOTE: On the F-Series at this point, secure the

console with the torx-head screws.

INSPECTING COOLANT HOSES

AND CLAMPS

FS236A All coolant hoses and connections should be checked

4. Place a towel beneath the coolant hose and remove annually for deterioration, cracks, and wear.
the hose from the throttle body. All coolant hoses and clamps should be replaced every
5. Using Vacuum Test Pump (p/n 0644-131) and four years.
proper-sized hoses, connect the pump to the throt-
tle body coolant hose.
INSPECTING THERMOSTAT
6. Remove the vise-grip pliers from the coolant hose
and the cap from the coolant tank; then pump the
coolant from the system. 1. Inspect the thermostat for corrosion, wear, or
spring damage.
FILLING COOLING SYSTEM 2. Using the following procedure, inspect the ther-
mostat for proper operation.
! CAUTION
a. Suspend the thermostat in a container filled
Be sure the cooling system is throughly filled using with water.
the following procedure.
b. Heat the water and monitor the temperature
1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile 30-60 cm (12- with a thermometer.
14 in.).

3-13
 c. The thermostat should open at 50°C (122°F). „NOTE: The thermostat is of the lock-open type. If
Once the thermostat starts to open, IMMEDI- the thermostat is ever allowed to fully open, it will
ATELY remove the thermostat as it will lock in remain open and replacement will be necessary.
the open position if allowed to open fully.

3-14
 Cooling System Schematics
The following schematics are representative of the different styles of 2-stroke cooling systems in the 2007 Arctic
Cat snowmobiles. Some components may vary from model to model; therefore, the technician should use discre-
tion and sound judgment when servicing a particular cooling system.

F-Series

0742-314

Crossfire/M-Series

738-067A

3-15
 KEY
Crossfire/M-Series
1. Rear Heat Exchanger 28. Hose Protector
2. Insert 29. Hose
3. Foam 30. Hose Clamp
4. Rivet 31. Hose Clamp
5. Hose Clamp 32. Hose
6. Hose
7. Hose Protector
8. Rivet
9. Heat Exchanger
10. Heat Exchanger
11. Hose Protector
12. Hose
13. Hose Clamp
14. Hose
15. Hose Clamp
16. Coolant Tank
17. Cap
18. Hose
19. Heat Shield
20. Cable Tie
21. Hose Clamp (1000 cc)
22. Hose
23. Loom (1000 cc)
24. Fitting (1000 cc)
25. Hose Clamp
26. Hose Clamp (1000 cc)
27. Cable Tie (1000 cc)

0742-120

KEY F-Series 500/600

1. Cap
2. Filler Neck
3. Clamp
4. Hose
5. Coolant Tank
6. Clamp
7. Hose
8. Clamp
9. Clamp
10. Hose
11. Hose
12. Clamp
13. Hose
14. Clamp
15. Machine Screw
16. Clamp
17. Hose
18. Self-Tapping Screw
19. Bracket
20. Cap Screw
21. Lock Nut

0741-835

3-16
KEY F-Series 800/1000
1. Cap
2. Filler Neck
3. Clamp
4. Hose
5. Coolant Tank
6. Clamp
7. Hose
8. Self-Tapping Screw
9. Machine Screw
10. Hose
11. Hose
12. Clamp
13. Hose
14. Fitting
15. Clamp
16. Clamp
17. Hose
18. Lock Nut
19. Bracket
20. Cap Screw

3
0742-029

2. Rotate the roller counterclockwise until the notch

Recoil Starter of the roller is near the rope guide in the case.
Guide the rope into the notch and slowly allow the
(370/500/600 cc) roller to retract until all recoil spring tension is
released.
REMOVING

1. Tie a slip-knot in the starter rope below the con-

sole and allow the rope to slowly retract against
the starter case.
2. Remove the knot at the handle, remove the handle,
and account for the handle cap; then thread the
rope through the bushing in the console.
3. Remove the cap screws securing the starter assem-
bly to the magneto case; then remove the starter
assembly.
DISASSEMBLING B522

! WARNING
! WARNING
Care must be taken when allowing the recoil roller to
Always wear safety glasses when servicing the unwind. Make sure all spring tension is released
recoil starter. before continuing.

1. Secure the recoil starter in a vise. 3. While exerting downward pressure on the friction
plate, remove the nut and washer.
! WARNING
During the disassembly procedure, continuous
downward pressure must be exerted on the reel so it
does not accidentally disengage and cause injury.

3-17
 „NOTE: Do not remove the main spring unless
replacement is necessary. It should be visually
inspected in place to save time.

9. Unwind the rope from the roller, untie the slip-

knot, and remove the rope.
CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

B523 1. Clean all recoil starter components.

4. Slowly release the plate and lift the plate with fric-
tion spring free of the recoil roller. 2. Inspect all springs, washers, and pawl for wear or
damage.
5. Remove the friction spring from the plate.
3. Inspect the roller and case for cracks or damage.
4. Inspect the center hub for wear, cracks, or damage.
5. Inspect the rope for breaks or fraying.
6. Inspect the main spring for cracks, crystallization,
or abnormal bends.
7. Inspect the handle for damage, cracks, or deterio-
ration.
ASSEMBLING

B524
6. Remove the pawl; then remove the return spring.

KEY
1. Starter Assy 6. Washer 11. Cap Screw
2. Starter Roller 7. Return Spring 12. Starter Pulley
B525 3. Main Spring 8. Friction Plate 13. Cap Screw
4. Ratchet Set 9. Nut
7. Carefully lift the roller free of the case making 5. Friction Spring 10. Starter Rope
sure the main spring does not accidentally disen-
gage from the case. 0739-364
1. Hook the end of the main spring around the
! WARNING mounting lug in the case.
Care must be taken when lifting the roller free of the 2. Insert the main spring into the case; then wind it in
case. a counterclockwise direction until the complete
spring is installed.
8. Remove the main spring from the case by lifting
the spring end up and out. Hold the remainder of „NOTE: The main spring must seat evenly in the
the spring with thumbs and alternately release recoil case.
each thumb to allow the spring to gradually release
from the case.

3-18
 3. Insert the rope through the hole in the roller and tie
a knot in the end; then wrap the rope counterclock-
wise around the roller leaving approximately 50
cm (20 in.) of rope free of the roller.
4. Apply low-temperature grease to the main spring
and hub.
5. Align the hook in the end of the main spring with
the notch in the roller.
6. Carefully slide the roller over the hub and engage
the spring with the roller.
7. Install the return spring making sure the end is B526
properly installed in the hole in the roller; then 11. With 50 cm (20 in.) of rope exposed, hook the
install the pawl making sure the return spring is rope in the notch of the roller.
properly preloaded.
12. Rotate the roller four or five turns counter-clock-
wise; then release the rope from the notch and
allow the rope to retract.
13. Pull the rope out two or three times to check for
correct tension.
„NOTE: Increasing the rotations in step 12 will
increase spring tension.
3
INSTALLING

1. Place the starter assembly into position against the

magneto case.
B525
2. Secure the starter with cap screws. Tighten to 1
8. Slide the end of the rope through the rope guide of kg-m (7 ft-lb) on the L/C models or to 1.1 kg-m (8
the case; then tie a slip-knot in the rope. ft-lb) on the F/C models.
9. Place the friction spring into position on the fric- „NOTE: Before tightening the cap screws, slowly
tion plate making sure the head of the spring is pull the recoil rope until the pawl engages; then
opposite the flat of the inner hole. Apply a low- tighten the cap screws. This will center the recoil
temperature grease to the plate.
against the magneto case.

3. Thread the rope through the bushing in the con-

sole; then install the handle and secure with a knot.
Seat the cap.
4. Release the slip-knot in the rope.

Recoil Starter
(570/800/1000 cc)

REMOVING
B524
1. Tie a slip-knot in the starter rope below the con-
10. Place the plate into position making sure the flat of sole and allow the rope to slowly retract against
the inner hole is correctly positioned in the hub. the starter case.
Apply blue Loctite #243 to the threads; then
secure the plate with a washer and nut. Tighten the 2. Remove the knot at the handle, remove the handle,
nut to 1.4 kg-m (10 ft-lb). and account for the handle cap; then thread the
rope through the bushing in the console.
3. Remove the bolts/cap screws securing the starter
assembly to the magneto case; then remove the
starter assembly.

3-19
DISASSEMBLING

! WARNING
Always wear safety glasses when servicing the
recoil starter.

1. Secure the recoil starter in a vise.

! WARNING
During the disassembly procedure, continuous
downward pressure must be exerted on the reel so it
does not accidentally disengage and cause injury. FS240
5. Remove the pawl activator from the friction plate.
2. Rotate the roller counterclockwise until the
notch of the roller is near the rope guide in the
case. Guide the rope into the notch and slowly
allow the roller to retract until all recoil spring
tension is released.

FS241
6. Remove the pawl and the return spring; then
remove the friction plate spring.
7. Carefully lift the roller free of the case making
FS238A sure the main spring does not accidentally disen-
gage from the case. Account for the bushing.
! WARNING
Care must be taken when allowing the recoil roller to ! WARNING
unwind. Make sure all spring tension is released
before continuing. Care must be taken when lifting the roller free of the
case.
3. While exerting downward pressure on the friction
plate, remove the bolt/bolt w/washer. 8. Remove the main spring from the case by lifting
the spring end up and out. Hold the remainder of
the spring with thumbs and alternately release
each thumb to allow the spring to gradually release
from the case.
„NOTE: Do not remove the main spring unless
replacement is necessary. It should be visually
inspected in place to save time.

9. Unwind the rope from the roller, untie the slip-

knot, and remove the rope.
CLEANING AND INSPECTING

FS239 „NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

4. Slowly release the friction plate and lift the plate cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
with pawl activator free of the recoil roller. necessary.

1. Clean all recoil starter components.

2. Inspect springs and pawl for wear or damage.

3-20
3. Inspect the roller and case for cracks or damage.
4. Inspect the center hub for wear, cracks, or damage.
5. Inspect the rope for breaks or fraying.
6. Inspect the main spring for cracks, crystallization,
or abnormal bends.
7. Inspect the handle for damage, cracks, or deterio-
ration.
ASSEMBLING

FS242
KEY 570 cc
1. Recoil Starter 3. Insert the rope through the hole in the roller and tie
Assy a knot in the end; then wrap the rope counterclock-
2. Roller
wise around the roller leaving approximately 50
3. Pawl Activator
4. Friction Plate
cm (20 in.) of rope free of the roller.
Spring
5. Bushing 4. Apply low-temperature grease to the main spring
6. Pawl and hub.
7. Return Spring
8. Friction Plate 5. Align the hook in the end of the main spring with

3
9. Bolt the notch in the roller.
10. Main Spring
11. Cap Screw 6. Carefully slide the roller over the hub and engage
the spring with the roller; then install the bushing.
739-386A

KEY 800/1000 cc
1. Recoil
Starter
Assy
2. Roller
3. Pawl
Activator
4. Friction Plate
Spring
5. Bushing
6. Pawl
7. Return Spring
8. Friction Plate
9. Bolt w/Washer
10. Main Spring FS243
11. Cap Screw 7. Install the return spring making sure the short leg
741-373A of the spring is properly installed in the hole in the
1. Hook the end of the main spring around the roller; then install the pawl making sure the return
mounting lug in the case. spring is properly positioned in the notch of the
pawl.
2. Insert the main spring into the case; then wind it in
a counterclockwise direction until the complete
spring is installed.
„NOTE: The main spring must seat evenly in the
recoil case.

FS244
8. Slide the end of the rope through the rope guide of
the case; then tie a slip-knot in the rope.

3-21
 9. Apply a low-temperature grease to the friction 14. Pull the rope out two or three times to check for
plate. Place the pawl activator into position on the correct tension.
friction plate making sure the arms of the activator
are properly positioned to the pawl. „NOTE: Increasing the rotations in step 13 will
increase spring tension.

INSTALLING

1. Place the starter assembly into position against the

magneto case.
2. Secure the starter with cap screws. Tighten to 1.1
kg-m (8 ft-lb).
„NOTE: Before tightening the cap screws, slowly
pull the recoil rope until the pawl engages; then
tighten the cap screws. This will center the recoil
against the magneto case.
FS240
10. Place the friction plate into position allowing it to 3. Thread the rope through the bushing in the con-
rest on the friction plate spring; then install the sole; then install the handle and secure with a knot.
bolt/bolt w/washer (coated with blue Loctite #243) Seat the cap.
and thread the bolt in until it contacts the friction 4. Release the slip-knot in the rope.
plate.

Arctic Power Valve

(APV) System

„NOTE: The servo will activate once at APV cycle

RPM. If the servo cycles three times, cable length
adjustment or valve inspection is required.

APV Position/RPM
Engine Valve Position Cycle RPM
600 cc Full-Open 7300 (Low Alt)
FS245 7400 (High Alt)
11. Press down on the friction plate and tighten the 800 cc Mid-Open 60-6500 (Low/High Alt)
bolt to 1.5 kg-m (11 ft-lb). Full-Open 78-8100 (Low/High Alt)
1000 cc Mid-Open 6300 (Low/High Alt)
Full-Open 6500 (Low/High Alt)

„NOTE: The 800 cc and 1000 cc have a three-stage

exhaust valve system. The stages are closed, mid-
open, and full-open. Each model has a designated
RPM at which the system is synchronized and
checked by the ECU for proper operation. This
occurs once each time the engine is started. The
800 cc system is checked at 4800 RPM and the
1000 cc system is checked at 6100 RPM (Crossfire/
F-Series) or at 6270 RPM (M-Series).

FS246
12. With 50 cm (20 in.) of rope exposed, hook the
rope in the notch of the roller.
13. Rotate the roller four or five turns counter-clock-
wise; then release the rope from the notch and
allow the rope to retract.

3-22
 THEORY
F-Series
Two-cycle engines and their exhaust systems are
designed to produce maximum horsepower in a given
RPM range. This RPM range will change according to
how high (or low) the exhaust port is in relation to the
cylinder. Engines designed for racing have a “high
port” exhaust system and will produce more horse-
power at higher RPM but only with the loss of low end
power and overall fuel economy. “Low port” engines
will produce maximum horsepower in the low RPM
ranges and provide good mid-range fuel economy, but
they sacrifice top end performance.
741-635A
The APV system does not increase engine horsepower,
but it does allow the engine to be designed for maxi-
Crossfire/M-Series mum top end horsepower without the losses associated
with a “high port” exhaust system.

3
742-209A

735-476B

COMPONENTS

The main components of the APV system are the fol-

lowing.
A. Lighting Coil
B. Chassis Control Unit (CCU)

0735-516 C. ECU
APV CABLE LENGTH D. Servomotor
ENGINE MODEL CENTER ± 1 mm (0.039 in.)
E. Power Valve Cables
600 cc 36.0 mm (1.417 in.)
800/1000 cc 35.0 mm (1.377 in.) F. Power Valves

The Arctic Power Valve (APV) System adjusts the size „NOTE: On these models, the traditional regulator/
of the exhaust ports to produce maximum horsepower rectifier has been replaced by a chassis control
on the top end while providing excellent low end unit.
power and increased touring fuel economy.

3-23
Lighting Coil Servomotor Cycles Three Times

The AC current generated by the lighting coil, which In this situation the ECU computer has been pro-
flows to the CCU, is the power source for the APV grammed with a voltage range (low and high) that the
system. servomotor must operate within. If the servomotor is
put under too much load, its resistance goes up and
Chassis Control Unit (CCU) may exceed the range upper limit. It will then stop and
attempt two more times. If the resistance still is too
The AC current from the lighting coil first enters the high, it shuts down.
CCU which is then changed from AC current to DC
current. Since the APV circuit cannot use pulsating If the servo is commanded to move but the potentiom-
DC current, it must be converted (by the CCU) to eter output voltage does not change, an error occurs
straight DC current which is necessary for the APV and the check engine light will flash a trouble code.
system.
Improper servomotor position sensing is normally
ECU caused by one or more of the following:
A. Incorrect exhaust valve cable length (too long
The computer within the ECU has been programmed or too short).
to raise and lower the power valves at a specific engine
rpm. When this rpm is reached, DC current is routed to B. Exhaust valve cable(s) sticking, broken, or dis-
the servomotor by the ECU. connected at pulley.
Servomotor C. Exhaust valves sticking.
The servomotor consists of two circuits. One circuit is D. Exhaust valve spring(s) weak or broken.
a DC circuit, which operates the DC motor within the
servo, and the other is a potentiometer, which mea- Check each of the above probable causes in the order
sures the servo pulley position based on voltage. given to locate the problem of the servomotor cycling
three times in succession; then shutting down.
The computer within the ECU has been programmed
to operate the servomotor between a low and high Check for correct exhaust valve cable length specifica-
voltage range. If voltage is not within the range, the tions for model being worked on in this section.
computer will shut down the APV circuit. The com-
puter will then make a total of three more attempts to Servomotor Makes No Attempt To
cycle the power valves. If the correct voltage or pulley Cycle
position isn’t seen, the APV circuit is shut down and
no more attempts will be made until the engine is shut If when running the engine the servomotor makes no
down and restarted. attempt to operate, this is caused by one or more of the
following:
Cables
A. Bad connection from the wiring harness and
The exhaust valves are connected to the actuating connector from the lighting coil to the CCU, to
cables and, along with the return springs, are contained the ECU, or from the ECU to servomotor.
inside the APV housing on the exhaust side of each
cylinder. The other end of the actuating cable is con- B. CCU output (gauge/taillight/APV) is shorted or
nected to the servo. open.
C. ECU output to servomotor is too low.
OPERATION
D. Servomotor failure.
At idle and low speed operation, the exhaust valves are
held in the “low port” position by the return spring. „NOTE: For testing individual APV system compo-
When engine RPM reaches a predetermined point, the nents, see Section 5.
ECU will send a signal to the servo which will cycle
and pull the exhaust valves into the up or “high port” MAINTENANCE
position. The RPM at which the valves open is differ-
ent with each model. The APV system requires only periodic cleaning and
cable adjustment. The cables should be checked every
If the servomotor cycles the exhaust valves as 1000-2000 miles and adjusted as necessary. To ensure
explained above, the exhaust valve circuit is operating maximum performance and minimize maintenance
satisfactorily. If the servomotor makes no attempt to requirements, Arctic Cat recommends using Arctic Cat
open the valves or if the servo attempts to cycle the Synthetic APV 2-Cycle Oil. Using oils other than the
valves three times (then stops working), there is a recommended oil may increase the frequency of
problem and it must be corrected. required cleaning due to increased buildup of carbon
deposits.

3-24
CABLE ADJUSTMENT

Proper cable adjustment is critical to the operation of

the APV system. While it is recommended that the
cable adjustment be inspected every 1000-2000 miles,
the cable should not need adjustment often. To check
the cable adjustment, use the following procedure.
1. On the Crossfire/M-Series, remove the two cap
screws securing the servomotor cover.

CM123A
4. Slide each cable drum out of the slot of the servo-
motor actuator.

FC004
2. Using a small needle-nose pliers, remove the ser-
3
vomotor retaining clip and the cable holder.

CM124A

„NOTE: Before proceeding with the cable adjust-

ment, ensure that the exhaust valves are free to
move.

5. While holding the cable housing firmly, pull the

cable as far out as it will go; then release. Repeat
three to four times. The cable/exhaust valve
should move freely without binding. If the cable/
exhaust valve does not move freely, the exhaust
CM126A valve assembly will need to be removed for further
inspection.
„NOTE: When measuring the cables, they are to
be routed and as close to their installed position
as possible.

6. While holding the cable housing, lightly pull on

one cable end to remove any slack.
7. Measure the amount of exposed cable from the
cable housing to the end of the cable.
„NOTE: The two cable measurements must be
equal in length or less than 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) dif-
CM127
ference in length from each other.
3. Rotate the servomotor actuator counterclockwise
to loosen the cable; then pull the cable housings „NOTE: Repeat steps 6 and 7 for each cable; then
down and out of the servomotor. compare the measurements to the appropriate
chart.

3-25
„NOTE: The measurements must be within the
specifications from the chart. If the measurements
are within specifications, no adjustment is neces-
sary. If they are not within specifications, proceed
to step 8.

8. Loosen the jam nut on the cable to be adjusted;

then using the adjusting nuts, lengthen or shorten
the housing as needed.
9. Once the proper length has been attained, hold the
adjusting nut in place and tighten the jam nut 800/1000 cc
securely.
CM147
10. Place the cable housings into position in the servo-
motor. Secure the cable housings with the cable 2. Remove the retaining screw securing the exhaust
retaining cover. valve to the valve stopper.

11. On the Crossfire/M-Series, place the servomotor

cover into position; then secure with two cap
screws.
„NOTE: If for any reason the pulley was removed
from the servo, make certain to align the space
between the two cables with the mark on the shaft
of the servo.

FC112
3. Hold the valve stopper securely and pull the cable
back and up until it clears the top of the stopper;
then slowly release the cable and remove it from
the valve stopper.

MS401A

REMOVING/DISASSEMBLING

„NOTE: To avoid a parts mix-up, it is recom-

mended that only one valve assembly at a time be
removed from the engine.

1. Remove the valve assembly from the engine.

FC113
600 cc
Cleaning and Inspecting

1. Remove all carbon deposits with solvent and a soft

abrasive such as a Scotch-Brite pad.
2. Inspect all parts for nicks, burrs, or other signs of
unusual wear.
Replacing Oil Seal

1. Carefully pry the seal up from beneath taking care

not to damage the valve plate.
FC115

3-26
 FC116 FC114
2. Install the new seal using an appropriate-sized seal „NOTE: Make sure that the small cable end spring
driving tool. stays in place at the end of the cable.

2. With the cover gasket properly positioned, place

the valve stopper on the cable end and slide it
down until the cable end is inside the stopper.

FC117

ASSEMBLING/INSTALLING

FC113
3. With the valve plate gasket properly positioned,
slide the exhaust valve through the valve plate and
insert it into the valve stopper. Secure with the
retaining screw. Tighten to 0.6 kg-m (4 ft-lb).

KEY
A. Exhaust Valve D. Oil Seal G. Stopper Pin
B. Cover Gasket E. Gasket H. Return Spring
C. Valve Plate F. Stopper I. Valve Cover

FC111A
1. Slide the return spring over the end of the actuat-
ing cable. FC112

„NOTE: Note that the exhaust valve gaskets are

directional and must be installed correctly.

4. Slide the valve assembly into the proper cylinder.

3-27
 600 cc

FC115 FC023
6. Perform steps 6-9 in Cable Adjustment in this sub-
section.
TROUBLESHOOTING

The APV system has a self-testing mode built in.

Every time that the engine is started, the servo will
cycle once. The ECU monitors the voltages at the
servo during this cycle to assure they are within opera-
tional tolerances.
If all voltages are within tolerance, the system is ready
800/1000 cc for operation. If the voltages are not within tolerance,
CM147
the servo will cycle two more times. If the voltages
remain out of tolerance, the system will not operate.
! CAUTION
For example, if the headlight and taillight are disabled,
On the 600 cc, the long side of the exhaust valve the ECU will sense a high voltage condition and acti-
must be facing toward the cylinder head or severe vate the fail-safe mode. Adding more than 4 amps of
engine damage may occur. accessories will create a low voltage condition and
activate the fail-safe mode.
The fail-safe mode is an ECU operated engine RPM
limiter. When activated, the fail-safe mode will be
seen as an immediate loss of engine horsepower.

Problem: Engine loses power; no top end

Condition Remedy
1. Exhaust valves stick- 1. Remove carbon depos-
ing in down position its, burrs, etc.
2. Cables adjusted too 2. Inspect—adjust
long
3. CCU output voltage out 3. Inspect—replace CCU/
FC024
of tolerance stator
5. Place the valve cover into position on the engine.
Secure with two cap screws (coated with blue Loc- Problem: Poor acceleration; hesitation
tite #243). Tighten to 1.4 kg-m (10 ft-lb) on the Condition Remedy
600 cc or to 1.1 kg-m (8.0 ft-lb) on the 800/1000
1. Exhaust valve sticking 1. Remove carbon depos-
cc.
in up position its, burrs, etc.—inspect/
replace return spring
2. Cables adjusted too 2. Inspect—adjust
short
3. CCU output voltage out 3. Inspect—replace CCU/
of tolerance stator

3-28
 Exhaust Controlled
Timing (ECT) System

The APV models are equipped with the Exhaust Con-

trolled Timing (ECT) system which utilizes an exhaust
pipe temperature sensor. This system automatically
adjusts the ignition timing to provide maximum per-
formance through a variety of operating conditions.
The ECU receives input on engine RPM (demand) and
exhaust temperature (engine condition) and adjusts the
ignition timing accordingly. This system is not adjust- 0737-314
able and is maintenance free.
„NOTE: A disabled ECT system WILL NOT cause
If a system fault is suspected, use an ohmmeter to engine damage; however, a failed ECT system will
check continuity of the exhaust pipe temperature sen- have slower throttle response and may produce
sor located in the expansion chamber. A reading of
either 0 ohm or infinity indicates a failed sensor. slightly less top-end performance.

3-29
SECTION 4 — FUEL SYSTEMS

TABLE OF
CONTENTS

Fuel System (Carbureted) ....................................... 4-2

Fuel System (EFI) ................................................. 4-21
Fuel System (Related Items)................................. 4-37

4-1
 Fuel System Fuel System
(Carbureted) (Carbureted)
Table of Contents
This sub-section has been organized for servicing car-
bureted fuel systems; however, some components may Carburetor Specifications ........................................ 4-3
vary from model to model. The technician should use Pre-Maintenance Checks ........................................ 4-3
discretion and sound judgment when removing/ disas-
sembling and assembling/installing components. Changing Main Jet(s) .............................................. 4-3
Carburetor Schematics............................................ 4-4
Whenever any maintenance or inspection is made on Removing Carburetor .............................................. 4-5
the fuel system in which fuel leakage may occur, there Disassembling Carburetor....................................... 4-5
should be no welding, smoking, or open flames in the Cleaning Carburetor ................................................ 4-7
area. Inspecting Carburetor.............................................. 4-8
„NOTE: Some illustrations and photographs used Assembling Carburetor............................................ 4-8
in this sub-section are used for clarity purposes only Installing Carburetor .............................................. 4-10
and are not designed to depict actual conditions. Adjusting Carburetor(s) ......................................... 4-11
Throttle Cable........................................................ 4-14
Choke Cable.......................................................... 4-15
Mikuni Tuning Components ................................... 4-16
Major Tuning Components .................................... 4-18
Troubleshooting Fuel System ................................ 4-19

4-2
 Carburetor
Specifications

PILOT AIR FLOAT HEIGHT

MAIN JET PILOT
MODEL TYPE NEEDLE JET CUT-AWAY SCREW SETTING
JET NEEDLE JET
(TURNS OUT) (mm)
Bearcat 570 (2) 220 P-4M (961) CE25-3 40 3.0 1 1/2 22-24
VM-34
Panther 370 (1) 250 P-5M (953) 6DH7-3 40 2.5 1 22-24
VM-32
Panther 570 (2) 220 P-4M (961) CE25-3 40 3.0 1 1/2 22-24
VM-34
Z 370 (1) 250 P-5M (953) 6DH7-3 40 2.5 1 22-24
VM-32
Z 570 (2) 220 P-4M (961) CE25-3 40 3.0 1 1/2 22-24
VM-34

„NOTE: The above specifications are production 4. Check the hoses to ensure that all are correctly
settings. For high altitude jetting and settings, connected; then check for cracks. If any cracks are
refer to the jet chart beneath the snowmobile hood evident in the hoses, replace them making sure
none are against any hot or moving parts. Hoses
4
or to the current High Altitude Guidebook.
must fit tightly. If hoses do not fit tightly, cut 6 mm
(1/4 in.) from the end and install.
Pre-Maintenance 5. Check the impulse hose for cracks or any possible
Checks air leaks. The hose must fit tightly at both ends. If
loose or cracked, replace the hose.

Before troubleshooting the fuel system, several simple 6. Check each carburetor vent hose for kinks or
checks should be performed. Many times what appears obstructions; remove any obstructions.
to be a serious problem is only a minor one. 7. Check each carburetor float chamber drain hose
1. Make sure the gas tank shut-off valve was in the for water or debris. If seen, clean by removing the
OPEN position. plug and draining the drain hose into a small con-
tainer.
2. Turn the shut-off valve to the CLOSED position;
then remove the in-line fuel filter. If the filter is 8. Check the gas tank vent hose and fuel hose for
dirty, replace the filter. obstructions; remove any obstructions.

„NOTE: Determine which style in-line fuel filter is 9. Turn the shut-off valve to the OPEN position.
being replaced and remove and install accordingly.

3. Install a new filter making sure the arrow on the Changing Main Jet(s)
filter is directed toward the fuel pump.
The carburetor main jet(s) must be changed in con-
junction with the changes in temperature, altitude, and
type of gasoline being used.
1. Loosen each carburetor flange clamp and remove
each carburetor from the intake flange and boot.
2. Remove the drain plug and O-ring from each car-
buretor float chamber and drain the gas into either
a small container or an absorbent towel.
3. Using the Main Jet Wrench (p/n 0644-065), thread
the main jet out of each carburetor. Account for
the baffle ring. Install the new main jet with baffle
728-272B ring and tighten securely.

4-3
 4. Install the drain plug and O-ring; then tighten VM-32
securely. KEY
1. Mixing Body 13. Piston Valve 26. Float Pin
Assy Spring 27. Float Arm
! CAUTION 2. Starter Plunger
Cap
14. Plate 28. Cap
15. Magnet Block 29. Float
When installing the throttle bodies/carburetors, 3. Starter Plunger 16. Screw w/ 30. Gasket
Spring Washer
make sure the gasline hoses are properly routed to 4. Starter Plunger
31. Float Chamber
17. E-Clip
avoid premature wear and/or contact with exhaust 5. Spring
32. Hose Plate
18. E-Clip Washer
components. 33. Vent Hose
6. Idle Speed 19. Jet Needle
Screw 34. Screw w/Spring
20. Piston Valve Washer
7. Spring
21. Needle Jet 35. O-Ring
8. Pilot Air Screw
22. Plate 36. Drain Plug
9. Pilot Jet
23. Screw w/Spring 37. Cap
10. Baffle Ring Washer
38. Washer
11. Main Jet 24. Washer
12. Mixing Body 25. Needle Valve
Top Assy

0728-054
5. Install and secure each carburetor.

Carburetor Schematics
0740-658
„NOTE: Some components may vary from model
to model. The technician should use discretion KEY VM-34
and sound judgment. 1. Mixing Body 13. Piston Valve 26. Washer
Assy Spring 27. Needle Valve
2. Starter Plunger 14. Plate Assy
Cap 15. Magnet Block 28. Float Pin
3. Starter Plunger 16. Screw w/ 29. Float Arm
Spring Washer 30. Cap
4. Starter Plunger 17. E-Clip 31. Float
5. Spring 18. Washer 32. Gasket
6. Idle Speed 19. Jet Needle 33. Float Chamber
Screw
20. Piston Valve 34. Plate
7. Spring
21. Needle Jet 35. Hose
8. Pilot Air Screw
22. Self-Tapping 36. Screw w/Spring
9. Pilot Jet Screw Washer
10. Baffle Ring 23. Magnetic 37. O-Ring
11. Main Jet Switch
38. Drain Screw
12. Mixing Body 24. Plate
39. Cap
Top 25. Screw w/Spring
40. Washer
Washer

0738-474

4-4
 5. If applicable, disconnect the safety switch wiring
Removing Carburetor harness connector from the main wiring harness.
6. Loosen the carburetor-flange clamp; then remove
„NOTE: On twin carburetor models, remove the
the carburetor.
carburetors using this basic procedure.

1. Turn the gas tank shut-off valve to the CLOSED

position.
2. Remove the mixing body top by rotating it coun-
terclockwise; then remove the top with spring,
plate, jet needle with E-clip, and piston valve from
the carburetor.

CM049

„NOTE: Slide the carburetor into the air-intake

silencer boot until free of the flange; then remove
carburetor.

! CAUTION
Keep MAG-side and PTO-side carburetors identified
for installing purposes.
4
CM047
3. Remove the brass choke-cable housing from the
carburetor. Account for a washer.
Disassembling
Carburetor

„NOTE: On twin carburetor models unless there

is a problem with the safety switches, do not
loosen or remove the screws securing the switch
to the carburetor.

1. Remove the four screws and lock washers secur-

ing the float chamber; then remove the float cham-
ber and gasket.

CM048
4. Disconnect the fuel hose from the carburetor inlet
fitting.

AH144

„NOTE: The floats should be removed only if

replacement is necessary or the float chamber
requires cleaning with carburetor cleaner.
AH284D

4-5
 2. Remove the caps from the float towers; then
remove the floats. Remove the drain plug and O-
ring.

AH084
6. Remove the pilot jet.

B344
3. Remove the float arm pin; then remove the float
arm.

! CAUTION
Use care when removing the float arm pin or the tow-
ers may break. Also, the pin must be removed from
its flattened side.

CM052
7. While counting the rotations for installing pur-
poses, rotate the pilot air screw clockwise until
lightly seated; then remove the pilot air screw and
spring.

CM050A
4. Remove the needle valve and the seat. Account for
a washer from the seat.

CM053A
8. Remove the idle speed screw and spring.

CM051
5. Remove the main jet and baffle ring; then remove
the main jet extender guide from the needle jet.
Push the needle jet out through the top of the car-
buretor.

4-6
 CM053B
9. On the 370 cc, remove the throttle cable from the
piston valve; then remove the valve.
CM054

„NOTE: Note the position of the E-clip on the jet

needle for assembly purposes.

! CAUTION
If an engine problem has been experienced due to
improper gas/air mixture, verify the carburetor jet-

4
ting and E-clip position with the Specification Chart
and Main Jet Chart on the snowmobile for altitude,
temperature, and type of gasoline.

11. Separate the starter plunger assembly from the

AH042
choke cable by compressing the spring and remov-
10. On the 570 cc, remove the Phillips-head screw ing the plunger from the cable; then remove the
securing the throttle cable retainer to the piston spring. Thread the plunger cap off the cable.
valve; then remove the retainer. Account for the jet
needle with E-clip and washer.
Cleaning Carburetor

! CAUTION
DO NOT place any non-metallic components in
parts-cleaning solvent or carburetor cleaner
because damage or deterioration will result.

1. Place all metallic components in a wire basket and

submerge in carburetor cleaner.
2. Soak for approximately 30 minutes; then rinse
with fresh parts-cleaning solvent.
AH074A
3. Wash all non-metallic components with soap and
water. Rinse thoroughly.
4. Dry all components with compressed air only
making sure all holes, orifices, and channels are
unobstructed.
5. Blow compressed air through all hoses to remove
any obstructions.

! WARNING
Always wear safety glasses when drying compo-
nents with compressed air.

4-7
 ! CAUTION
DO NOT use wire or small drill bits to clean carbure-
Assembling Carburetor
tor orifices, holes, or channels. Distorted or dam-
aged orifices, holes, or channels can result in poor 1. Install the idle speed screw and spring.
carburetor operation.

Inspecting Carburetor

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Inspect the mixing body for cracks, nicks, stripped

threads, and any other imperfections in the casting.
2. Inspect the piston/throttle valve for cracks, score
marks, or imperfections in the casting.
3. Inspect the condition of the piston valve spring.
4. Inspect the float for perforations or damage.
5. Inspect the gaskets, O-rings, and washers for dis- CM053B
tortion, tears, or noticeable damage. 2. Install the pilot air screw and spring. Rotate clock-
6. When applicable, inspect the tips of the idle speed wise until lightly seated; then turn counterclock-
screw, jet needle, pilot air screw, needle valve, and wise the same number of turns as noted in
fuel mixture screw for wear, damage, or distortion. disassembling for an initial setting.

„NOTE: When inspecting the inlet needle,

inspect the side guides and tip for wear. If the
guides show any sign of wear, replace the inlet
needle.

7. Inspect the pilot jet and main jet for obstructions

or damage.
8. Inspect the starter plunger and seat for wear or
damage.
9. Inspect the carburetor mounting flanges for dam-
age and tightness.

! CAUTION
An air leak between the carburetor and engine will
cause a lean condition and severe engine damage
will result. CM053A

! CAUTION
DO NOT force the pilot air screw when seating. Forc-
ing the screw will result in damage to the carburetor
body.

3. Install the pilot jet.

4-8
 CM050A
7. Check the float arm height. Using a calipers, mea-
sure the distance from the gasket surface to the top
CM052 of the float arm (with the carburetor inverted). If
4. Insert the needle jet into position from the top of measurement is not within specifications, adjust
the carburetor making sure the groove in the nee- by bending the actuating tab.
dle jet is aligned with the pin in the mixing body;
then place the jet extender, baffle ring, and main
jet into position and secure.

AH046

FLOAT ARM HEIGHT

AH084 VM-32/34 22-24 mm (0.86-0.94 in.)
5. In order, place a washer and inlet seat into position 8. Place the O-ring and drain plug into position and
and secure. Install the inlet needle valve. secure; then place the floats into position making
sure the word UP is properly positioned. Press the
caps onto the float towers.

CM051
6. Place the float arm into position and secure with
the pin. B344
9. Place the gasket and float chamber into position
and secure with the four screws and lock washers
making sure the hose plates are properly posi-
tioned on the two front screws. Install the vent
hoses.

4-9
 12. Thread the plunger cap onto the choke cable. Place
the spring over the cable end and compress. Posi-
tion the cable end into the starter plunger and
release the spring.

Installing Carburetor

„NOTE: On twin carburetor models, install the

carburetors using this basic procedure.

1. Place the carburetor into position in the flange and

AH137 air-intake silencer boot; then tighten the flange
10. Place the E-clip into position on the jet needle. clamp making sure the carburetor is level. Do not
From the bottom of the jet needle, slide the E-clip over-tighten the flange clamp as it will damage the
washer up against the E-clip. Place the jet needle carburetor flange.
into the piston valve.
„NOTE: Place the E-clip in the proper position as
noted in disassembly.

CM049

„NOTE: Slide the carburetor into the air-intake

silencer boot; then slide the carburetor into the
flange.
725-266C
11. On the 570 cc, place the cable retainer into the pis- 2. Connect the fuel hose to the carburetor inlet fit-
ton valve and secure with the Phillips-head screw. ting.
On the 370 cc, place the spring and plate over the
throttle cable and compress the spring. Guide the
cable end down into the cable retainer slot and ! CAUTION
slide the cable end to the center of the piston When installing the carburetors, make sure the
valve. Release the spring and retainer plate to lock gasline hoses are properly routed to avoid prema-
the cable in position. ture wear and/or contact with exhaust components.

3. Place the piston valve into position making sure

the full-length groove in the piston valve is aligned
with the pin in the mixing chamber bore.

AH075

„NOTE: The round part of the cable end must

come through the hole in the plate/piston valve. If
it doesn’t, the cable isn't assembled to the piston CM055A
valve correctly.

4-10
 4. Thread the brass choke-cable housing into the car- 4. With free-play removed from the lever, slowly
buretor making sure the washer is properly posi- rotate the choke cable adjuster once again clock-
tioned and tighten securely. wise while checking the choke cable lever for free-
play. Adjust until 3 mm (1/8 in.) free-play between
front bottom edge of lever and housing is attained.
Securely tighten the adjuster jam nut.

CM048
5. Secure the mixing body top by tightening the
screw and lock washer making sure the mixing
body top plate is properly positioned. 0732-848
5. On twin carburetor models, repeat steps 3 and 4 on
„NOTE: Prior to threading the mixing body top each carburetor.
onto the carburetor, assure the rubber washer is
positioned correctly on the body top. „NOTE: On twin carburetor models if a carbure-
tor choke cable is adjusted too tight, the engine
6. If applicable, connect the safety switch harness to
the main wiring harness.
will only operate on 1 cylinder at idle.
4
ADJUSTING PISTON VALVE(S)
7. Turn the gas tank shut-off valve to the OPEN posi-
tion. „NOTE: On some models, the air-intake silencer
is a one-piece unit, and the silencer boot(s) can be
8. Adjust the carburetors (see Adjusting Carbure-
tor(s) in this sub-section). removed to access the intake bore(s). Remove the
boots; then proceed to step 4.

Adjusting „NOTE: On some models, the air-intake silencer

includes a cover/tool tray assembly and a baffle/
Carburetor(s) resonator, and the silencer boot cannot be
removed to access the intake bores. Proceed to
step 1.
! CAUTION
1. Open the air-intake silencer cover; then remove
The air-intake silencer and boots must be in position
the 3 Phillips-head screws securing the cover/tool
whenever the engine is run. If the silencer is tray assembly to the silencer.
removed and the engine is run, a lean condition will
result. Therefore, DO NOT run the engine when the 2. Tip the cover/tool tray assembly forward and out
air-intake silencer is removed. of its slots and remove the assembly.
ADJUSTING CHOKE CABLE(S) 3. Using a large flat-blade screwdriver, remove the
resonator tabs from the air-intake silencer slots
1. Be sure the ignition switch key is in the OFF posi- and remove the resonator to access the intake
tion and the brake lever lock is set. bores.

2. Loosen the jam nut securing the choke cable „NOTE: The resonator can be removed more eas-
adjuster. Rotate the choke cable adjuster clockwise ily by removing the back tabs first.
until it bottoms against the brass plunger cap.
4. Rotate each idle speed screw counterclockwise
3. Slowly rotate the choke cable adjuster counter- until all spring tension is removed.
clockwise while checking the choke lever for free-
play. As soon as all free-play has been removed 5. Loosen the jam nut securing each throttle cable
from the end of the lever, stop rotating the swivel adapter; then rotate the swivel adapter
adjuster. clockwise until the piston valve bottoms in the pis-
ton valve bore.

4-11
 6. In turn on each carburetor, place a finger lightly SYNCHRONIZING PISTON VALVES
against the side of the piston valve; then rotate the
carburetor swivel adapter counterclockwise until „NOTE: Arctic Cat recommends using the Carbu-
slight upward movement of the valve is noted. retor Synchronizer (p/n 0644-069). If the carburetor
synchronizer is not available, use the following
7. In turn on each carburetor, place a finger against procedure.
either piston valve. Rotate the idle speed screw
clockwise until it contacts the valve.
1. Open the air-intake silencer cover; then remove
8. Compress the throttle lever to the full-open posi- the 3 Phillips-head screws securing the cover/tool
tion; then rotate each idle speed screw clockwise 2 tray assembly to the silencer.
complete turns. Release the throttle lever.
2. Tip the cover/tool tray assembly forward and out
„NOTE: On single carburetor models, the throttle of its slots and remove the assembly.
control is equipped with a 2-wire throttle control
3. Using a large flat-blade screwdriver, remove the
switch connector. There must be free-play between resonator tabs from the air-intake silencer slots
the lever and the control housing. and remove the resonator to access the intake
bores.
„NOTE: On twin carburetor models, the throttle
control is equipped with a 3-prong emergency stop „NOTE: The resonator can be removed more eas-
switch connector. There must be free-play between ily by removing the back tabs first.
the lever and the control housing.
4. Check to make sure the piston valves start to open
at the exact same moment by placing a thumb and
finger against the valves; then lightly compress the
throttle lever.
5. With slight pressure being applied to the throttle
lever, the piston valves should start to open at the
exact same time. Compress and release the throttle
lever several times to assure accurate determina-
tion of piston valve opening.
6. If a piston valve starts to open before another,
rotate the swivel adapter on the valve which is lift-
ing first clockwise, just enough to synchronize the
valves.
0741-518
„NOTE: Recheck by repeating steps 4-6.
„NOTE: If cable free-play gap is not correct,
rotate each swivel adapter an equal amount until 7. Tighten the swivel adapter jam nuts securely. Slide
recommended free-play is achieved. Each piston the rubber throttle cable caps down over the swivel
valve must be resting against the tip of its idle adapters.
speed screw.
„NOTE: There must be free-play in the throttle
„NOTE: On twin carburetor models if throttle lever.
cable free-play is incorrect, the carburetor safety
switches will be activated prematurely and the ! WARNING
engine will not start.
Be sure to tighten the swivel adapter jam nuts
securely. If a swivel adapter jam nut is not tightened,
9. On some models, install the air-intake silencer
the adjuster can rotate out of the carburetor cap
boot(s); on some models, install the baffle/resona-
tor and the cover/tool tray assembly. causing the piston valve not to return to the full-
closed position.

8. After synchronization has been attained, install the

resonator and cover/tool tray assembly.

4-12
ADJUSTING PILOT AIR SCREW(S)

1. While counting the rotations, carefully rotate each

pilot air screw clockwise until lightly seated.

AH055
4. On twin carburetor models, rotate the PTO-side
carburetor idle speed screw clockwise until the
tachometer reads slightly above 1500 RPM; then
rotate the idle speed screw counterclockwise to
AH006
achieve exact 1500 RPM reading. The piston
! CAUTION valves should now be synchronized and the engine
should idle without holding any throttle pressure.
Do not force a pilot air screw when rotating it clock-
wise; damage to the pilot air screw needle tip will „NOTE: If the engine has no ignition spark with
result. the throttle in the idle position but has proper
spark with the throttle lever slightly compressed,
2. Rotate each pilot air screw counterclockwise the
4
the carburetor safety switches must be reposi-
same number of turns as noted in step 1 for an ini- tioned.
tial setting.
3. Synchronize the oil-injection pump (see Related 5. Test the throttle control lever by compressing and
Items in this section). releasing it several times. The lever must return to
the idle position quickly and completely.
ADJUSTING ENGINE IDLE SPEED

1. With the snowmobile on a shielded safety stand, ! WARNING

start the engine, release the brake lever lock, and DO NOT operate the snowmobile when any compo-
thoroughly warm up. Fine-tune each idle speed nent in the throttle system is damaged, frayed,
screw and each pilot air screw until the engine kinked, worn, or improperly adjusted. If the snowmo-
idles smoothly at the desired RPM (1500 RPM is bile is operated when the throttle system is not func-
recommended). tioning properly, personal injury could result.
„NOTE: Make engine idle adjustment only after
the engine has reached running temperature.
Since the idle speed screw(s) have not been
adjusted, apply slight throttle pressure to keep the
engine running. Allow engine to warm up for 2-3
minutes.

2. On twin carburetor models after the engine has

been allowed to warm up for 2-3 minutes, adjust
engine idle by first rotating the PTO-side carbure-
tor idle speed screw clockwise until the tachome-
ter reads 1480 RPM.
3. On twin carburetor models, rotate the MAG-side
carburetor idle speed screw clockwise until
tachometer reads 1500 RPM.

4-13
 10. Loosen the jam nut securing the adjustment cable;
Throttle Cable then remove the cable from the oil-injection pump.
INSTALLING
„NOTE: Determine which type of cable is being
replaced and remove and install accordingly. 1. Route the throttle cable from the throttle switch
assembly to the carburetors and oil-injection
REMOVING pump; avoid any sharp bends or moving parts.
2. Install the oil-injection adjustment cable on the
oil-injection pump; secure with the jam nuts.
KEY
1. Retaining Ring 3. Install the oil-injection cable on the control arm;
2. Throttle Cable
secure with a washer and E-ring.
3. Cable Tie
4. E-Ring „NOTE: Install the PTO-side carburetor if
5. Washer
removed.
6. Nut

4. Install the throttle cable into the throttle switch

assembly making sure it snaps into place.
5. Install the throttle cable end on the throttle lever.
6. Secure the throttle cable to the steering post with
734-533A
cable ties.
KEY 6 7. Install the handlebar pad and console.
1. Cable Tie
2. Throttle Cable 8. Attach the throttle cable to each throttle valve. The
3. Jam Nut 1 valve must seat in the groove of the throttle cable
4. E-Ring 2 end; then thread the throttle cable into each mixing
5. O-Ring body top.
6. Retaining Clip
9. Install each piston valve and mixing body top on
the carburetor(s). Tighten securely.
3

4
10. Adjust the carburetor(s) (see Adjusting Carbure-
5 tor(s) in this sub-section).
737-544A
! CAUTION
1. Loosen the throttle cable adjuster jam nuts.
Compress the throttle control lever to ensure free
2. Remove the mixing body tops. movement. If the throttle cable sticks or binds, cor-
rect the problem before starting the engine.
3. Remove the throttle cables from the piston valves.
11. Synchronize the oil-injection pump (see Related
4. Remove the throttle cables from the mixing body Items sub-section).
tops.
5. Remove the handlebar pad and console.
6. Remove the cable ties securing the throttle cable.
7. Remove the throttle cable end from the throttle
lever.
8. Using Throttle Cable Removal Tool (p/n 1639-
963), push down on the throttle cable retaining
clip; then remove the cable from the throttle
switch assembly.
„NOTE: On twin carburetor models, it may be
necessary to remove the PTO-side carburetor.

9. Remove the E-ring securing the oil-injection cable

to the control arm. Account for a washer.

4-14
 Choke Cable

„NOTE: Determine which type of cable is being

replaced and remove and install accordingly.

KEY
1. Choke Cable
2. Knurled Nut
3. Choke Lever Kit

725-001A
6. Slide the choke lever housing from the console.
7. Cut any cable ties used to secure the choke cable
and remove the choke cable from the engine com-
partment.
INSTALLING
737-490A

1. Position the choke lever in the middle-choke posi-

KEY tion; then from the back side of the console, insert
1. Choke Cable
the choke lever housing through the console.
2. Knurled Nut
Secure with the knurled nut.
4
3. Choke Lever Kit

2. Route the choke cable from the console to each

carburetor; avoid any sharp bends or moving parts.
3. Install each brass choke cable housing onto the
cable end; then install each spring and brass
plunger.
4. Place the lock tab washer on each brass housing
and insert a choke plunger into each carburetor.
736-596A
5. Thread each brass choke cable housing into each
REMOVING carburetor and tighten. Bend the lock tab up to
secure the brass housing. Adjust the choke cable
1. Bend down the lock tabs locking each brass choke (see Adjusting Carburetor(s) in this sub-section).
cable housing on each carburetor.
6. Place the console into position and secure with the
2. Using a 12-mm wrench, remove each brass choke screws.
cable housing from each carburetor. Account for
the lock tab washers.
3. Remove each brass plunger and spring from the
cable end; then remove each brass choke cable
housing.
4. Remove the screws securing the console.
5. Position the choke lever in the middle-choke posi-
tion; then remove the knurled nut securing the
choke lever housing to the console.

4-15
 Mikuni Tuning Components

MAIN JETS AVAILABLE JET NEEDLES AVAILABLE

JET P/N JET P/N JET NEEDLE
P/N
(VM-Style)
120 6505-270 400 6505-124
6CE25 6506-408
130 6505-216 410 6505-212
6CH3 6505-519
140 6505-217 420 6505-125
6DH2 6505-252
150 6505-168 430 6505-146
6DH3 6505-509
160 6505-064 440 6505-126
6DH4 6505-003
170 6505-065 450 6505-147
6DH7 6505-215
180 6505-056 460 6505-127
6DH8 6505-236
190 6505-066 470 6505-148
6DF7 6506-297
200 6505-144 480 6505-149
7DJ2 6505-549
210 6505-145 490 6505-150
7DH2 6505-097
220 6505-137 500 6505-151
7DH5 6505-814
230 6505-067 510N 6506-378
240 6505-079 520 6505-530
250 6505-068 520N 6506-379
260 6505-017 530N 6506-380
270 6505-069 540 6505-531
280 6505-080 540N 6506-381
290 6505-123 550N 6506-382
300 6505-128 560 6505-172
310 6505-136 560N 6506-383
320 6505-074 580 6505-211
330 6505-070 600 6505-532
PILOT JETS AVAILABLE
340 6505-076 620 6505-174
JET NO. P/N JET NO. P/N
350 6505-071 640 6505-533
17.5 6505-218 35 6505-029
360 6505-038 660 6505-535
20 6505-138 40 6505-047
370 6505-072 680 6505-169
22.5 6505-310 45 6505-278
380 6505-077 700 6505-536
25 6505-075 50 6505-262
390 6505-078 720 6505-538
27.5 6505-503 52.5 6505-261
30 6505-073 55 6505-255

4-16
 Mikuni Tuning Components (cont)
PISTON VALVES AVAILABLE NEEDLE JETS AVAILABLE
SLIDE CARB. SIZE (mm) P/N NEEDLE NEEDLE
P/N P/N
2.0 28-30 6505-048 JET JET
3.0 28-30 6505-161 O-6 (480) 6505-931 Q-2 (480) 6505-641
3.0 30 6505-510 O-8 (480) 6505-824 Q-3 (480) 6505-599
3.5 30 6505-528 P-0 (159) 6505-155 Q-4 (166) 6505-214
2.5 32-34 6505-246 P-0 (166) 6505-007 Q-4 (480) 6505-636
3.5 32-34 6505-248 P-0 (169) 6505-051 Q-5 (159) 6505-119
2.5 34 6505-500 P-0 (480) 6505-598 Q-5 (166) 6505-520
2.5 34 6505-614* P-2 (480) 6505-595 Q-5 (480) 6505-580
3.0 34 6505-507 P-4 (159) 6505-221 Q-6 (166) 6505-506
3.0 34 6505-561* P-4 (480) 6505-540 Q-8 (480) 6506-112
2.0 36 6505-877 P-4 (169) 6505-164 R-0 (166) 6505-505
3.0 36 6505-592* P-4M (961) 6506-407 Z-4 (224) 6505-808
3.0 38 6505-643 P-5 (480) 6505-542 Z-5 (224) 6505-541
3.5 38 6505-436 P-5M (953) 6506-405 Z-6 (224) 6505-597
3.5 38 6505-525 P-6 (159) 6505-247 Z-8 (224) 6505-572
3.5 38 6505-526 P-6 (166) 6505-268 Z-9 (224) 6505-618
3.5 38 6505-554 P-6 (480) 6505-539 AA-0 (224) 6505-544
P-8 (159) 6505-298 AA-1 (224) 6505-609
4
3.5 38 6505-613*
4.0 38 6505-504 P-8 (166) 6505-433 AA-3 (224) 6505-604
3.5 40 6505-575* P-8 (480) 6505-543 AA-4 (224) 6505-605
1.0 40-44 6505-092 Q-0 (159) 6505-260 AA-5 (224) 6505-099
2.5 40-44 6505-570 Q-0 (166) 6505-190 AA-8 (224) 6505-571
3.5 40-44 6505-548 Q-0 (480) 6505-529 BB-0 (224) 6505-182
3.0 40-44 6505-809 Q-2 (166) 6505-508 BB-5 (224) 6505-180
3.5 40-44 6505-813*
* For models with carburetor switch

INLET NEEDLE ASSEMBLIES AVAILABLE

SEAT DIA. CARB. SIZE (mm) P/N
1.5 mm (Steel) 28, 30, 32, 34 6505-026
1.5 mm (Viton) 28, 30, 32, 34 6505-160
1.5 mm (Steel) 28 — 34 GVM 6505-245
1.5 mm (Viton) 36, 38, 40, 44 6505-171
1.8 mm (Viton) 36, 38, 40, 44 6505-175
2.0 mm (Viton) 36, 38, 40, 44 6505-176

4-17
 Major Tuning Components
To assist you in selecting four major tuning components of the carburetor, listed below are the jet needles, needle
jets, pilot jets, and piston valves on charts according to their size.

TYPE - 159-166-480 TYPE 224 JET NEEDLES

NEEDLE JETS
VM30-32-34-38 VM40-44
LEAN 6DH2 7F7
LEAN N-4
6DH3 7DH2
N-6
6DH4 7F6
N-8
6DH7 7DH3
O-0
6DH8 7DH5
O-2
6DH41 7H2
O-4
RICH 6EGJ1 7J2
O-5
„NOTE: The above chart shows the average per-
O-6 formance of a given needle between 1/4 and 3/4
O-7 throttle. Needles are constructed in such a way
O-8 that at any given point, the needle could be richer
P-0 or leaner than the rating it has.
P-2
P-4 PILOT JETS
P-5 LEAN 12.5
P-6 15
P-8 17.5
Q-0 Z-0 20
Q-2 Z-5 22.5
Q-3 Z-6 25
Q-4 Z-8 27.5
Q-5 AA-0 30
Q-6 AA-1 32.5
Q-8 AA-2 35
R-0 AA-3 37.5
R-2 AA-5 40
R-4 AA-8 45
R-5 BB-0 50
R-6 BB-5 55
RICH R-8 60
„NOTE: The above needle jets may come in dif- 65
ferent types; for example, (159) - (166) - (480) - RICH 70
(224). When selecting a new needle jet, use the
PISTON VALVES
correct series or type.
LEAN 4.0
3.5
3.0
2.5
2.0
1.5
RICH 1.0

4-18
 Troubleshooting Fuel
System

Problem: Carburetor Too Rich (0-1/4 Opening)

Condition Remedy
1. Choke plunger will not seat 1. Adjust — service — replace choke cable — plunger
assembly
2. Pilot air screw too far in 2. Adjust pilot air screw
3. Pilot air passage obstructed — damaged 3. Remove obstruction — replace pilot air screw — carbu-
retor
4. Float/inlet needle obstructed — damaged — adjusted 4. Remove obstruction — replace inlet needle — float —
incorrectly adjust float tab
5. Pilot jet loose 5. Tighten pilot jet
Problem: Carburetor Too Rich (1/4-3/4 Opening)
Condition Remedy
1. Pilot air screw too far in 1. Adjust pilot air screw
2. Needle jet — jet needle worn — adjusted incorrectly 2. Replace needle jet — replace — adjust jet needle E-
— incorrect clip
3. Pilot air passage obstructed — damaged 3. Remove obstruction — replace pilot air screw —
carburetor 4
4. Pilot jet loose 4. Tighten pilot jet
5. Float/inlet needle obstructed — damaged — adjusted 5. Remove obstruction — replace inlet needle — float —
incorrectly adjust float tab
6. Main jet loose — too large 6. Tighten — replace main jet
7. Primary air passage obstructed 7. Remove obstruction
Problem: Carburetor Too Rich (3/4-WOT Opening)
Condition Remedy
1. Main jet loose — too large 1. Tighten — replace with smaller main jet
2. Float/inlet needle obstructed — damaged — adjusted 2. Remove obstruction — replace inlet needle — float —
incorrectly adjust float tab
3. Needle jet — jet needle worn — adjusted incorrectly 3. Replace needle jet — replace — adjust jet needle E-
— incorrect clip
Problem: Carburetor Too Lean (0-1/4 Opening)
Condition Remedy
1. Choke plunger remains seated 1. Adjust — service choke cable — plunger assembly
2. Pilot air screw too far out — damaged 2. Adjust — replace pilot air screw
3. Piston valve sticks open — damaged — worn 3. Service — replace piston valve — throttle cable —
spring
4. Pilot jet — outlet obstructed 4. Remove obstruction
5. Float/inlet needle obstructed — damaged — adjusted 5. Remove obstruction — replace inlet needle — float —
incorrectly adjust float tab

4-19
Problem: Carburetor Too Lean (1/4-3/4 Opening)
Condition Remedy
1. Pilot air screw too far out — damaged 1. Adjust — replace pilot air screw
2. Needle jet obstructed 2. Remove obstruction
3. Pilot jet — outlet — main jet obstructed 3. Remove obstruction
4. Float/inlet needle obstructed — damaged — adjusted 4. Remove obstruction — replace inlet needle — float —
incorrectly adjust float tab
5. Jet needle E-clip position incorrect 5. Adjust E-clip
Problem: Carburetor Too Lean (3/4-WOT Opening)
Condition Remedy
1. Main jet obstructed — too small 1. Remove obstruction — replace with larger main jet
2. Float/inlet needle obstructed — damaged — adjusted 2. Remove obstruction — replace inlet needle — float —
incorrectly adjust float tab
3. Needle jet — jet needle obstructed 3. Remove obstruction
Problem: General Fuel System (Engine Cuts Out at High RPM)
Condition Remedy
1. Fuel delivery inadequate 1. Repair — replace fuel pump — impulse hose
2. In-line fuel filter obstructed — damaged 2. Remove obstruction — replace in-line fuel filter
3. Gasoline contaminated 3. Replace gasoline — de-ice — clean carburetors
4. Gas-tank vent — hose obstructed 4. Remove obstruction — replace vent — hose
Problem: General Fuel System (One Cylinder Runs Lean)
Condition Remedy
1. Carburetor-to-cylinder air leak 1. Repair — replace gaskets — flanges — service intake
ports — tighten clamps
2. Carburetors not aligned vertically 2. Align carburetors vertically
3. Primary compression (crankcase) low 3. Troubleshoot engine
4. Carburetors not synchronized 4. Synchronize carburetors

4-20
 Fuel System EFI Specifications
(EFI)
Fuel Pressure 42.8-47.3 psi
This sub-section has been organized for servicing EFI Coolant Temperature Sensor 194°-206° F (90°-97° C)
fuel systems; however, some components may vary (Closes)
from model to model. The technician should use dis- Throttle Valve Angle - Volts 0.714-0.814 - Idle
cretion and sound judgment when removing/ disas- (500 cc) 3.507-4.014 - Full-Open
sembling and assembling/installing components.
Throttle Valve Angle - Volts 0.646-0.7540 - Idle
(600/800 cc) 3.472-4.0485 - Full-Open
„NOTE: Some illustrations and photographs
used in this section are used for clarity purposes Throttle Valve Angle - Volts 0.595-0.695 - Idle
(1000 cc) 3.477-4.054 - Full-Open
only and are not designed to depict actual condi-
tions.
Introduction
Fuel System
(EFI) The EFI system is lightweight in design and is made
Table of Contents up of a number of components which are explained in
this sub-section. The EFI system eliminates the worry
of changing main jets to compensate for altitude or
EFI Specifications ................................................. 4-21 temperature. This EFI system will provide quick and
Introduction ........................................................... 4-21 easy starting under all conditions.

4
Arctic Cat EFI System ........................................... 4-22
The electrical control unit (ECU) has a self-diagnostic
Individual EFI Components ................................... 4-23 mode built in. It is a very valuable factor in trouble-
Self-Diagnostic EFI System (800/1000 cc) ........... 4-26 shooting. Once the problem area has been determined
Self-Diagnostic EFI System (500/600 cc) ............. 4-26 from the trouble code flashed by the Check Engine
Diagnostic Codes (500/600 cc) ............................. 4-27 Light in the speedometer/tachometer, follow the trou-
ECU (500/600 cc) ................................................. 4-28 bleshooting procedure in this sub-section. The chassis
Testing Individual Components ............................. 4-28 control unit (CCU) codes are flashed by a wrench icon
EFI Analyzer/Diagnostic Tool ................................ 4-31 light incorporated within the speedometer/tachometer.
Peak Voltage Tests and Specifications.................. 4-31
When troubleshooting the EFI system, special tools
Throttle Body Assembly ........................................ 4-31
are required. These special tools are the following.
Throttle Body Flange............................................. 4-33
Throttle Cable........................................................ 4-33 EFI Analyzer Kit (p/n 0744-049)
EFI Component Voltage/Resistance Chart -
Air Temperature ................................................. 4-35 EFI Analyzer (p/n 0644-476)
EFI Component Voltage/Resistance Chart -
Fuel Pressure Test Kit (p/n 0644-493)
Water Temperature ............................................ 4-36
Troubleshooting Fuel System................................ 4-37 Fluke Model 73 Multimeter (p/n 0644-191)
EFI Analyzer Update Kit (p/n 0744-047)
Laptop Diagnostic Tool (p/n 0744-048)
Laptop Diagnostic Test Kit (p/n 0744-050)
„NOTE: If using EFI Analyzer (p/n 0644-342) on
the 2007 500/600 cc, Test Harness (p/n 1686-310)
must be used.

4-21
 Arctic Cat EFI System

The Arctic Cat EFI System operates off a series of

coils located on the stator.
The EFI system is made up of the following compo-
nents.
1. Charge coils (1 and 2) which are located on the
stator provide AC voltage to the ECU/CCU where
AC voltage is converted to DC voltage.
SNO-142
2. A fuel pump coil located on the stator operates the
low voltage, high output fuel pump. At cranking
speed, the high output fuel pump provides enough
fuel to charge the fuel rail.
3. An injector coil located on the stator provides the
injectors with DC voltage for operation through
the ECU.
4. A lighting coil located on the stator plate provides
output to the CCU to operate accessories and the
lighting system.
5. An electrical control unit (ECU) calculates input
from sensors (intake air temperature sensor, cool-
0644-493
ant temperature sensor, throttle position sensor,
ignition timing sensor, barometric pressure sensor,
and on the 800 cc, a knock sensor) to provide the
engine with the correct fuel mixture and timing for
optimum operation.
EFI FEATURES

1. Automatic compensation for temperature.

2. Automatic compensation for altitude.
3. Optimum throttle response through high pressure
injection.
AE114
4. Quick starting in every condition.
5. Improved fuel efficiency with maximum mileage
in every condition.
6. Engine RPM more stable in every condition.

0744-048

4-22
PRECAUTIONS These components are grouped into the fuel handling
system. They work together along with electrical sen-
sors (following list) and the ECU to provide the engine
! WARNING with a precise fuel mixture for combustion. The sen-
Whenever working on the fuel system if a fuel hose sors are the following.
is removed from any component, slowly bleed the
pressure from the hose into an absorbent towel 1. Ignition Timing Sensor
before removing the hose from the component.
2. Intake Air Temperature Sensor
! WARNING 3. Coolant Temperature Sensor
Always tighten fuel hose clamps securely.
4. Throttle Position Sensor
5. Barometric Pressure Sensor
6. Knock Sensor (800 cc)
The fuel is first drawn into the electric fuel pump
through two pick-up valves and hoses. The fuel is then
routed through a high-pressure fuel hose to the fuel
rail.
The fuel pressure is maintained specified psi in the
fuel rail by the fuel regulator.
With the fuel pressure maintained at a constant psi, the
ECU evaluates the information it receives from the

! CAUTION
0729-325 electrical sensors and opens the injectors for precise
periods of time (pulse widths) to meet engine 4
demands.
Always use resistor-type spark plugs and spark plug
caps. Non-resistor components will cause the ECU „NOTE: The entire EFI system depends on all
to malfunction. coils functioning properly on the stator.

FLOODED ENGINE
Individual EFI
If the engine should become flooded, set the brake
lever lock, compress the throttle lever to the full-open
Components
position, and crank the engine over until it starts and
clears itself. Release the brake lever lock. ECU
FUEL SYSTEM The ECU is the brain of the EFI system. It uses sensor
inputs to determine the correct fuel/air ratio for the
The EFI fuel system consists of the following compo- engine given the existing conditions of altitude and
nents. temperature.
1. Gas tank
2. Electric high output fuel pump
3. Two pick-up valves with micron screens
4. High-pressure fuel hose
5. Fuel rail
6. Fuel pressure regulator located in the fuel pump
7. Throttle body assembly
8. Injectors
MS396
9. ECU

4-23
If any of the sensors should fail while the engine is The intake air temperature sensor is mounted on the
running, the ECU will sense a problem and go into a front of the air-intake silencer. Its purpose is to sense
“fail safe” mode. This is an over-rich condition and air temperature entering the air-intake silencer and
will greatly reduce performance. However, the engine engine. The ECU sends current to this sensor, and
will be protected from a possible lean condition and (depending on the temperature) the sensor will pass a
engine damage. certain amount of current through the sensor to
ground. The ECU measures how much current passes
The ECU is equipped with a check engine light in the through the sensor to ground. From this measurement,
speedometer/tachometer which will flash a series of the ECU determines the air temperature and calculates
pulses when a problem exists with any of the sensors. the fuel/air mixture ratio. This sensor is very sensitive
By observing the code, the technician can determine to temperature change. Resistance will drop as the
the problem sensor by comparing the code flashed temperature rises.
with the trouble code chart (see appropriate Diagnostic
Codes in Section 1). COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
„NOTE: There are no repairs that can be made to
the ECU.

If the ECU is not receiving current from one of the

output coils on the stator, that circuit will not operate.
Coils on the stator are the charge coils which operate
the ECU, the injector coil which operates the injectors,
the fuel pump coil which operates the fuel pump, and
the lighting coil/chassis control unit which operates all
accessories and the lighting system. Refer to the wir-
ing diagram.

AO069
The coolant temperature sensor is located on the lower
crankcase. This sensor is very sensitive to temperature
change. The ECU measures the current flow through
the sensor to ground. From this measurement, the ECU
can determine the engine coolant temperature and cal-
culate the correct fuel/air mixture ratio.
„NOTE: If the coolant temperature rises above
80° C (176° F), the temperature sensor starts to
richen the fuel mixture. At this time, the check
AO132D engine light will flash constantly. Once the engine
coolant temperature reaches the specified temper-
INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE ature 93° C (200° F), the temperature sensor will
SENSOR signal the ECU to go into the rich mode to protect
the engine from overheating. At this time, the
check engine light will be constantly on.

THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR

AO135D

CM202A

4-24
The throttle position sensor, located at the end of the FUEL INJECTORS
throttle shaft, is a potentiometer (a potentiometer is,
essentially, a voltage divider). This sensor transforms
the throttle-valve position into output voltage to the
ECU. In addition, the sensor detects the opening or
closing speed of the throttle valve and feeds that rate
of voltage change to the ECU.
„NOTE: The input from the throttle position sen-
sor is one of the main inputs for the ECU calcula-
tion of fuel/air mixture ratio.

IGNITION TIMING SENSOR

FS021
The fuel injectors are positioned in the top of each
throttle body. O-rings seal the top and bottom of each
injector, and they are held in position by a locking
plate secured to the fuel rail.

0729-627
4
This sensor is located inside the magneto case next to
the flywheel, and the recoil starter and the flywheel
must be removed to access the sensor.
This sensor is triggered by a small metal disc precisely
mounted to the flywheel flange. Each time the metal
disc rotates past the sensor, a signal is sent to the ECU. FS022A
From this signal, the ECU determines ignition and
injection timing and RPM. The fuel injector is an electromagnetic injection valve
controlled by a signal from the ECU. The coil used in
BAROMETRIC PRESSURE SENSOR the injector is a high-pressure resistance type. The
ECU determines the optimum fuel injection time and
duration based on signals from the five sensors.
When voltage is sent to the fuel injector, it energizes
the coil and opens the needle valve, thereby injecting
fuel. Because the fuel pressure (pressure differential
between fuel line and manifold) is kept constant, the
amount of fuel injected is determined by the duration
of time the valve is open.
The injectors are coded with symbols (Q-O-V) and are
color-coded yellow and green. When replacement of a
fuel injector is necessary, the injector must be replaced
with an injector of the same code symbol and color.

FS020A ! CAUTION
This sensor is located inside the ECU and is part of the Do not replace an injector with one of a different
ECU unit. Its purpose is to sense atmospheric pressure. code symbol or color. Severe engine damage may
From this information, the ECU determines the correct
occur.
fuel/air mixture ratio.
„NOTE: This sensor is not replaceable. If it
should fail, the ECU must be replaced.

4-25
 B. Emergency stop switch and ignition switch
must be ON and in good working order.
C. Fuel pump - see fuel pump test procedure.
D. Wiring harness and connectors - clean the con-
nectors and test the harness.
E. ECU.

Self-Diagnostic
EFI System (800/1000 cc)
FS025A

FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR „NOTE: For testing the 800/1000 cc EFI system,
refer to the EFI Diagnostic System Manual (p/n
The fuel pressure regulator is located in the fuel pump. 2257-850), which accompanies Laptop Diagnostic
The fuel pressure regulator maintains the fuel pressure Tool (p/n 0744-048) and Laptop Diagnostic Test Kit
at a constant specified level. (p/n 0744-050).

Self-Diagnostic
EFI System (500/600 cc)

„NOTE: To aid in testing the 500/600 cc EFI sys-

tem, refer to the EFI Analyzer Usage Manual (p/n
2259-020), which accompanies EFI Analyzer Kit
(p/n 0744-049).

INTRODUCTION

The Electronic Control Unit (ECU) contains a built-in,

FS023A
self-diagnostic system which detects trouble within the
sensor signal network and then flashes a code in the
FUEL PUMP CIRCUIT check engine light in the speedometer/tachometer.
The fuel pump and its circuit are provided with current
from the fuel pump coil on the stator.

ZJ001B
The fuel system and the ignition system remain two
separate systems. In a no-start situation, first deter-
FS024 mine if the problem is caused by lack of spark or by a
For this circuit to function correctly, five components fuel delivery problem or by an internal engine condi-
must be in good working order. tion (low cylinder compression for example).
Check the following components before considering Using the EFI Ignition Analyzer, connect the test har-
the fuel pump assembly to be defective. ness to the ECU diagnostic connectors. Connect the
test harness red external lead to the positive terminal
A. Fuel pump coil - see coil test procedure. of a 12-volt battery and connect the black external test
harness lead to the negative terminal.

4-26
If any of the circuits are faulty, a code will now be „NOTE: If either test is not within specifications,
flashed by the check engine light. the stator must be replaced. Refer to the wiring
diagram.
If no code is flashed, turn on the analyzer. Press the
MENU SELECT buttons until the words KOKUSAN Injector Coil Resistance Test
appear on the display; then press the TEST button. The
analyzer is now programmed for testing the Arctic Cat The injector coil located on the stator powers the two
EFI System. injectors.
Using the MENU SELECT buttons, press the button 1. Disconnect the double-wire plug with two blue/
repeatedly until Memory Problem Diagnosis Test white leads from the stator to the ECU.
appears on the display; then press the TEST button. If
any sensors have intermittent problems, they will be 2. Set the meter selector to the OHMS scale.
indicated on the display.
3. Connect a meter lead to each of the blue/white
The code flashed from the check engine light will first leads. The meter must show 15.2-22.8 ohms.
be a number of flashes. Count the number of flashes
and refer to the appropriate Diagnostic Codes in Sec- „NOTE: If reading is not within the specification,
tion 1. The code repeats itself with approximately a 2- recheck to confirm test results. If still out of toler-
second delay between each series of flashes. ance, replace the stator.
„NOTE: When reading the check engine light
„NOTE: If the resistance test is good, a peak
flash sequence, have paper and pencil available to
reading voltage test should also be made. Refer to
write down the codes being flashed. More than one
Peak Voltage Tests and Specifications in this sub-
code may be flashed.
section.
Once the problem area has been determined, check the
components involved using the Fluke Model 73 Multi-
meter (p/n 0644-191) or the EFI Analyzer (p/n 0644-
Fuel Pump Coil Resistance Test
4
476) depending on which test is being made. The fuel pump coil powers the fuel pump through the
ECU.
„NOTE: With the engine running, there should
Diagnostic Codes 12.3-12.9 DC volts supplied to the fuel pump for
(500/600 cc) operation. To test fuel pump coil resistance, use
the following procedure.

TROUBLESHOOTING INDIVIDUAL 1. Disconnect the double-plug with the two orange

COMPONENTS wires from the ECU.

„NOTE: With the Arctic Cat EFI System, it is 2. Set the meter selector to the OHMS scale. Connect
extremely important that the ECU receives the
a meter lead to each of the two orange leads.
proper current output from four coils (two charge 3. The meter must show 1.52-2.28 ohms.
coils, an injector coil, and a fuel pump coil) to
function as designed. If a problem exists, these „NOTE: If reading is out of tolerance, recheck to
coils should be checked using the following proce- confirm reading. If still out of tolerance, replace
dures. the stator.

Charge Coil (1)/Charge Coil (2) „NOTE: If the resistance test is good, a peak
Resistance Test reading voltage test should also be made. Refer to
Peak Voltage Tests and Specifications in this sub-
The charge coils power the ECU. To test these coils, section.
disconnect the 3-wire connector from the ECU to the
stator. Lighting Coil Resistance Test

1. Set the meter selector to the OHMS scale and test The lighting coil located on the stator provides AC
between the black/red and green/red wires (coil 1). power to the lighting system and accessories through
the chassis control unit. To test the lighting coil resis-
2. The meter must show 7.20-10.8 ohms. tance, follow this procedure.
3. Test between the green/red and brown/white wires 1. Disconnect the 3-wire connector at the engine.
(coil 2).
2. Set the meter selector to the OHMS scale.
4. The meter must show 7.20-10.8 ohms.
3. Test between the two yellow leads.

4-27
 4. The meter must show 0.8-0.12 ohm. REMOVING
„NOTE: If reading is out of tolerance, recheck to 1. Disconnect the wiring harness lead from the ECU.
confirm reading. If still out of tolerance, replace
the stator. 2. Remove the two screws securing the ECU to the
air-intake silencer (Crossfire/M-Series) or to the
left-front upper frame (F-Series).
ECU (500/600 cc) 3. Remove the ECU.
INSTALLING
ACTIVATING ECU MEMORY
1. Secure the ECU to the air-intake silencer (Cross-
The ECU has a self-diagnostic mode built into the unit. fire/M-Series) or to the left-front upper frame (F-
It is a very valuable tool in troubleshooting. Once the Series) with the screws.
problem area code has been flashed by the check
engine light in the speedometer/tachometer, follow the „NOTE: On the Crossfire/M-Series, make sure the
troubleshooting procedure in this sub-section. diagnostic connector plug faces the oil reservoir.
The ECU also has a memory mode for determining if 2. Connect the wiring harness to the ECU.
any of the five sensors have intermittently failed. To
activate the memory system, follow these steps. „NOTE: Make sure all connectors are clean and
tight. Apply dielectric grease to all connectors.
1. Connect the analyzer test harness to the ECU diag-
nostic connector.
2. Connect the analyzer test harness red and black Testing Individual
leads to a 12-volt battery. Components
3. Turn the analyzer switch ON.
4. Press the analyzer MENU SELECT buttons „NOTE: For individual resistance testing proce-
repeatedly until KOKUSAN appears on the dis- dures, see Section 5 in this manual.
play. Once the word KOKUSAN appears on the
display, press the TEST button. The analyzer is „NOTE: For the following tests, use the Fluke
now set up to test the EFI system. Model 73 Multimeter (p/n 0644-191) or a multimeter
of the same quality.
5. Press the analyzer MENU SELECT buttons
repeatedly until the words Memory Problem Diag- THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
nosis Test appears on the display.
If the snowmobile is under warranty, the throttle posi-
Memory Problem Diagnosis Test tion sensor on the EFI system is not a serviceable part.
If the sensor should malfunction, the complete throttle
6. Press the analyzer TEST button. If all sensors are body assembly must be replaced.
good, SENSORS ALL O.K. will appear on the
display. If any of the sensors have intermittently „NOTE: If the snowmobile is in warranty, break-
failed or are faulty, they will appear on the display. ing the seal on the idle screw jam nut or the Phil-
Proceed then to checking the faulty sensor individ- lips-head screws on the TPS will void warranty.
ually as covered in this section.
„NOTE: It is important to order a throttle body
„NOTE: Once problem areas have been deter-
assembly with the same symbol marking on the
mined, always check the component(s) for clean
injectors as the ones being replaced. The symbol
and tight connections.
is located on the side of the injector top.
7. To erase the memory of the ECU, press the TEST
button once again; then push the MENU SELECT
buttons until Diagnosis Memory Clear appears on
the display. Turn the analyzer OFF and then back
ON again. Reselect KOKUSAN mode; then pro-
ceed to the Memory Problem Diagnosis Test and
push the TEST button. The display should indicate
SENSORS ALL O.K. which indicates the memory
has been cleared.

4-28
FUEL INJECTORS

CM203A

FS021 Installing

Testing Resistance 1. Apply a light coat of oil to all O-rings; then install
the upper and lower O-rings onto each injector.
1. Disconnect the fuel injector wiring harness.
2. Install the injectors into the throttle body assem-
2. Set the meter selector to the OHMS scale. bly.
3. Test between the two injector terminals. Test spec- 3. Place the injector hold-down plate into position on
ification is 2.4-3.3 ohms. top of the injectors and secure with two screws.
4. Connect the fuel delivery hose to the fuel rail and
secure with a clamp. 4
„NOTE: When securing the fuel delivery hose,
position the clamp as shown.

CM039
4. If not within specifications, replace the injector.
Removing

! CAUTION 0729-325
The fuel supply hose may be under pressure. Place 5. Connect the wiring harness to the injectors making
an absorbent towel around the connection to absorb sure the number 1 harness is connected to the
fuel; then remove the hose slowly to release the MAG-side injector.
pressure.

1. Loosen the clamp securing the fuel supply hose to

the fuel rail; then remove the hose from the fuel
rail.
2. Disconnect the wiring harness from each injector.
3. Remove the screws securing the injector hold-
down plate to the throttle body assembly; then
remove the plate from the injectors.
4. Remove the fuel injectors from the throttle body/
intake manifold assembly.

4-29
IGNITION TIMING SENSOR

AO053

„NOTE: A short piece of 3/8 in. I.D. hose will be

0729-627
needed to make the above connections.
Testing Resistance
2. Pressurize the regulator to 2.0-2.2 kg/cm² (28-31.3
psi). Turn the pressure tester shut off valve to the
1. Disconnect the two leads from the sensor to the OFF position. Observe the gauge for several min-
main wiring harness. utes and note if there is any loss of pressure. If
2. Set the meter selector to the OHMS scale. pressure begins to drop, the cause may be a rup-
tured diaphragm, worn spring, or leaking valve. If
3. Test between the green/white and brown leads the regulator fails to build or maintain pressure,
from the sensor. Test specification is 152-228 replace the regulator.
ohms.
„NOTE: If there is a drop in pressure, check the
„NOTE: This sensor is located inside the mag- hose connections to ensure there are no leaks.
neto case next to the flywheel, and the recoil
starter and the flywheel must be removed to COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
access the sensor (see Section 2).
Testing Resistance
ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP
„NOTE: The coolant temperature sensor is very
1. Remove the hardware securing the console to the sensitive to temperature change. Before the resis-
gas tank and frame; then move the console out of tance test is conducted, it is important to know the
the way. coolant temperature. If the engine has been oper-
ated recently and the coolant is warm, the resis-
2. Disconnect the fuel pump from the main wiring tance will measure lower than if the coolant was at
harness. room temperature or colder. For accurate test
3. Connect the positive lead of a 12-volt power sup- results, check the coolant temperature in the filler
ply to the red wire and the negative lead of the 12- neck using a thermometer.
volt power supply to the black wire.
1. Disconnect the coolant temperature sensor wiring
4. The pump should operate (it would be heard run- harness from the main harness.
ning).
2. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position and
„NOTE: If the fuel pump fails to operate, the test the resistance between the two leads from the
pump is defective and must be replaced. sensor.

TESTING FUEL PRESSURE 3. Compare the resistance reading to the EFI Compo-
REGULATOR nent Voltage/Resistance Chart - Water Tempera-
ture in this sub-section. If resistance is not within
the specification, replace the sensor.
1. Using the Fuel Pressure Test Kit (p/n 0644-493),
connect the tester to the regulator fuel inlet. „NOTE: A coolant temperature sensor voltage
test can be made using the EFI Analyzer.

„NOTE: The coolant temperature sensor is

located at the lower half of the crankcase. To
remove the sensor, the engine must be removed
(see Section 2).

4-30
INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE
SENSOR EFI Analyzer/
Testing Resistance Diagnostic Tool
„NOTE: It is very important to know the compo-
„NOTE: For testing the 800/1000 cc EFI system,
nent temperature before conducting this test.
refer to the EFI Diagnostic System Manual (p/n
Allow the engine to reach room temperature.
2257-850), which accompanies Laptop Diagnostic
Tool (p/n 0744-048) and Laptop Diagnostic Test Kit
1. Disconnect the wiring harness from the intake air
temperature sensor. (p/n 0744-050).

„NOTE: To aid in testing the 500/600 cc EFI sys-

tem, refer to the EFI Analyzer Usage Manual (p/n
2259-020), which accompanies EFI Analyzer Kit (p/
n 0744-049).

Peak Voltage Tests

and Specifications

„NOTE: For peak voltage testing procedures, see

Section 5 in this manual.

4
AO135D
2. Set the meter selector in the OHMS position and
test the two leads located in the sensor connector. Throttle Body
Compare with the EFI Component Voltage/Resis-
tance Chart - Air Temperature in this sub-section.
Assembly
„NOTE: The intake air temperature sensor
employs a thermistor, which is very sensitive to 500 cc
temperature changes. Resistance will change as
temperature varies.

Removing

1. Disconnect the wiring harness from the intake air

temperature sensor.
2. Using a standard screwdriver, pry the sensor end
to end to remove it from the air-intake silencer.
Account for two push pins.
Installing

1. Place the sensor into position in the air-intake

silencer and secure with push pins.
KEY
2. Connect the wiring harness to the intake air tem- 1. Throttle Body 6. Bolt
perature sensor. Secure the sensor leads with cable 2. Throttle Position Sensor 7. Fuel Injector
ties so they do not rub on any other components. 3. Screw 8. Cushion
4. O-Ring
5. Fuel Rail

741-871A

4-31
 3. Remove the fuel supply hose from the fuel rail.
600 cc
! CAUTION
Since the fuel supply hose may be under pressure,
remove it slowly to release the pressure. Place an
absorbent towel around the connection to absorb
fuel.

4. Loosen the flange clamps.

5. Slide the throttle body assembly out of the flanges;
then loosen the jam nut securing the throttle cable
and remove.
6. Where applicable, remove the oil pump control
rod.

KEY
7. Remove the throttle body assembly.
1. Throttle Body 5. Hose 8. Throttle
2. Fuel Rail 6. Clamp Position INSTALLING
Sensor
3. Fuel Injector 7. O-Ring Set
4. Screw
9. Screw
1. Attach the throttle cable to the throttle body.
10. Control Rod
Secure with jam nut.
0740-804
2. Place the throttle body assembly into position.
800/1000 cc Make sure the flanges and boots are positioned
properly. Secure with flange clamps.
3. Where applicable, connect the oil pump control
rod.
„NOTE: The coolant hoses must be connected
first; then the throttle body assembly must be
installed.

4. Secure the coolant hoses to throttle body assem-

bly.
5. Connect the fuel supply hose to the fuel rail.

! CAUTION
These hoses must be connected to the correct fit-
tings.

KEY
1. Throttle Body 5. Hose 8. Throttle
2. Fuel Injector 6. Clip Position
Sensor
3. Fuel Rail 7. Screw
9. Screw
4. O-Ring
10. Control Rod

0741-330

REMOVING

„NOTE: The expansion chamber and air silencer

must be removed for this procedure (see Section
2).
0729-325
1. Disconnect the wiring harness from each injector
and from the throttle position sensor connector. 6. Connect the wiring harness to each injector and
throttle position sensor.
2. Remove the coolant hoses from the throttle body
assembly and plug them to prevent leakage. „NOTE: Install the air silencer and the expansion
chamber (see Section 2).

4-32
7. Place the rear of the snowmobile on a shielded
safety stand and start the engine without touching KEY
1. Throttle Cable
the throttle. It may idle slowly and stop. Restart 2. Cable Tie
using the same procedure until the engine starts 3. E-Ring
and builds RPM on its own. 4. Washer

! CAUTION
When installing the throttle bodies, make sure the
gasline hose is properly routed to avoid premature
wear and/or contact with exhaust components.

8. Check the cooling system.

9. Adjust the throttle cable as necessary. 741-982A

KEY

Throttle Body Flange

1. Throttle Cable
2. Cable Tie

REMOVING

1. Loosen the clamps securing the throttle body

assembly to the throttle body flanges.
2. Remove the throttle body assembly from the
flanges.
3. In turn on each flange, remove the two nuts, lock 741-618A
4
washers, and flat washers securing the intake flange
to the cylinder; then remove the flange. KEY
1. Throttle Cable
INSTALLING 2. Cable Tie

1. Apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone to

the cylinder side of each flange; then attach each
flange to a cylinder and secure each with two flat
washers, lock washers, and nuts. Tighten to 2.1
kg-m (15 ft-lb).
2. Install the flange clamps on the flanges; then place
the throttle body assembly into the flanges and
secure with the clamps.
742-027A
3. Secure all wires and hoses with cable ties.
REMOVING
Throttle Cable 1. Loosen the throttle cable adjuster at the bracket.
2. Remove the throttle cable from the pulley on the
„NOTE: Determine which type of cable is being throttle body lever shaft.
replaced and remove and install accordingly.
3. On the 500 cc, remove the E-clip securing the oil-
injection cable to the oil-injection pump control
arm. Account for a washer.
4. On the 500 cc, loosen the oil-injection cable jam
nuts.
5. On the other models, remove the handlebar pad
and the console (if applicable).
6. Remove the cable ties securing the throttle cable.
7. Remove the throttle cable ends from the throttle
lever and from the throttle control housing.

4-33
„NOTE: Some EFI models are equipped with a 9. Adjust the throttle cable tension by turning the jam
control rod activated oil pump. If it must be nuts in the appropriate direction until there is 0.75-
removed, the rod simply snaps off and on at the 1.5 mm (0.030-0.060 in.) free-play in the throttle
control arm. lever and the butterfly completely opens and
closes. Tighten the jam nuts securely.
INSTALLING/ADJUSTING

1. Install the throttle cable into the throttle switch

assembly making sure the cable snaps into place.
2. Install the throttle cable end on the throttle lever.
3. Route the throttle cable from the throttle switch
assembly to the throttle body assembly and oil-
injection pump; avoid any sharp bends or moving
components.
4. Attach the throttle cable to the pulley on the throt-
tle body shaft.
0741-518
5. On the 500 cc, install the oil-injection cable
adjuster on the oil-injection pump; secure with the ! CAUTION
jam nuts.
Compress the throttle control lever to ensure free
6. On the 500 cc, install the oil-injection cable on the movement. If the throttle cable sticks or binds, cor-
control arm; secure with a washer and E-clip. rect the problem before starting the engine.

7. Secure the throttle cable to the handlebar and 10. Synchronize the oil-injection pump.
steering post with cable ties.
8. On the other models, install the handlebar pad and
the console (if applicable).

4-34
 EFI Component Voltage/Resistance Chart -
Air Temperature

TEMP/C TEMP/F VOLTAGE OHMS TEMP/C TEMP/F VOLTAGE OHMS

100 212 0.113 555 28 82 1.230 8540
98 208 0.121 595 26 79 1.322 9530
96 205 0.128 635 24 75 1.413 10520
94 201 0.136 675 22 72 1.505 11510
92 198 0.143 715 20 68 1.596 12500
90 194 0.151 755 18 64 1.716 14020
88 190 0.162 819 16 61 1.836 15540
86 187 0.173 883 14 57 1.955 17060
84 183 0.184 947 12 54 2.075 18580
82 180 0.195 1011 10 50 2.195 20100
80 176 0.206 1075 8 46 2.323 23060
78 172 0.222 1160 6 43 2.452 26020
76 169 0.238 1245 4 39 2.580 28980
74 165 0.253 1330 2 36 2.709 31940

4
72 162 0.269 1415 0 32 2.837 34900
70 158 0.285 1500 -2 28 2.969 39940
68 154 0.308 1640 -4 25 3.101 44980
66 151 0.331 1780 -6 21 3.233 50020
64 147 0.353 1920 -8 18 3.365 55060
62 144 0.376 2060 -10 14 3.497 60100
60 140 0.399 2200 -12 10 3.610 76080
58 136 0.432 2410 -14 7 3.722 92060
56 133 0.465 2620 -16 3 3.835 108040
54 129 0.498 2830 -18 -0.4 3.947 124020
52 126 0.531 3040 -20 -4 4.060 140000
50 122 0.564 3250 -22 -8 4.142 156000
48 118 0.612 3595 -24 -11 4.224 172000
46 115 0.659 3940 -26 -15 4.306 188000
44 111 0.707 4285 -28 -18 4.388 204000
42 108 0.754 4630 -30 -22 4.470 220000
40 104 0.802 4975 -32 -26 4.522 261000
38 100 0.869 5490 -34 -29 4.574 302000
36 97 0.937 6005 -36 -32 4.625 343000
34 93 1.004 6520 -38 -36 4.677 384000
32 90 1.072 7035 -40 -40 4.729 425000
30 86 1.139 7550

4-35
 EFI Component Voltage/Resistance Chart -
Water Temperature

TEMP/C TEMP/F VOLTAGE OHMS TEMP/C TEMP/F VOLTAGE OHMS

110 230 0.115 129 28 82 1.377 1800
108 226 0.129 137 26 79 1.459 1950
106 223 0.143 145 24 75 1.541 2100
104 219 0.157 153 22 72 1.623 2250
102 216 0.171 161 20 68 1.705 2400
100 212 0.185 169 18 64 1.806 2670
98 208 0.192 180 16 61 1.907 2940
96 205 0.199 191 14 57 2.008 3210
94 201 0.206 202 12 54 2.109 3480
92 198 0.213 213 10 50 2.210 3750
90 194 0.220 224 8 46 2.327 4170
88 190 0.235 240 6 43 2.444 4590
86 187 0.250 256 4 39 2.561 5010
84 183 0.265 273 2 36 2.678 5430
82 180 0.280 289 0 32 2.795 5850
80 176 0.295 305 -2 28 2.901 6510
78 172 0.317 327 -4 25 3.007 7170
76 169 0.339 349 -6 21 3.113 7830
74 165 0.361 371 -8 18 3.219 8490
72 162 0.383 393 -10 14 3.325 9150
70 158 0.405 415 -12 10 3.421 9422
68 154 0.438 445 -14 7 3.517 9694
66 151 0.471 475 -16 3 3.613 9966
64 147 0.504 505 -18 -0.4 3.709 10238
62 144 0.537 535 -20 -4 3.805 10510
60 140 0.570 565 -22 -8 3.885 13688
58 136 0.598 609 -24 -11 3.965 16866
56 133 0.626 653 -26 -15 4.045 20044
54 129 0.654 697 -28 -18 4.125 23222
52 126 0.682 741 -30 -22 4.205 26400
50 122 0.710 785 -32 -26 4.267 30520
48 118 0.759 849 -34 -29 4.329 34640
46 115 0.808 913 -36 -32 4.391 38760
44 111 0.857 977 -38 -36 4.453 42880
42 108 0.906 1041 -40 -40 4.515 47000
40 104 0.955 1105 -42 -44 4.553 55100
38 100 1.023 1214 -44 -47 4.591 63200
36 97 1.091 1323 -46 -51 4.629 71300
34 93 1.159 1432 -48 -54 4.667 79400
32 90 1.227 1541 -50 -58 4.705 87500
30 86 1.295 1650

4-36
 Troubleshooting Fuel System

Problem: Too Rich

Condition Remedy
1. Diagnostic trouble code activated 1. Replace problem sensor
2. Fuel pressure too high 2. Replace regulator
3. Fuel return hose obstructed 3. Service — replace hose — remove obstruction
4. Injectors leaking 4. Replace injectors
Problem: Too Lean
Condition Remedy
1. Diagnostic trouble code activated 1. Replace problem sensor
2. Fuel pressure too low 2. Replace regulator/fuel pump
3. Vent hose obstructed 3. Remove obstruction
4. Fuel filter(s) obstructed 4. Replace fuel filter(s)

Fuel System Oil-Injection Pump

(Related Items)
REMOVING
Some components may vary from model to model.
The technician should use discretion and sound judg- „NOTE: On EFI models to service the oil-injec- 4
ment when removing and installing components. tion pump, the exhaust system and the air silencer
must be removed (see Section 2); then proceed to
Whenever any maintenance or inspection is made on step 2.
the fuel system in which fuel leakage may occur, there
should be no welding, smoking, or open flames in the 1. On carbureted models, turn the gas tank shut-off
area. valve to the CLOSED position.
„NOTE: Some illustrations and photographs
2. Remove the carburetors/throttle bodies.
used in this section are used for clarity purposes
only and are not designed to depict actual condi- 3. Disconnect the oil-supply hose from the pump and
tions. plug to prevent oil drainage.
4. Remove the two oil-delivery hoses from the
adapter plates/intake flanges.
Fuel System
(Related Items) 5. Disconnect the oil-injection cable/control rod.
Table of Contents 6. Remove the two screws, lock washers (if applica-
ble), and washers (if applicable) securing the oil-
Oil-Injection Pump................................................. 4-37 injection pump and retainer to the crankcase.
Synchronizing Oil-Injection Pump ......................... 4-38 7. Pull the oil-injection pump away from the engine
Bleeding Oil-Injection System and account for a gasket.
(370/500/570 cc)................................................ 4-39
Bleeding Oil-Injection System 8. Turn the pump sideways; then remove the lower
(600/800/1000 cc).............................................. 4-40 union bolt. Account for two gaskets. Remove the
Testing Oil-Injection Pump .................................... 4-40 pump.
Testing Oil-Injection Check Valves ........................ 4-41 9. Remove the remaining union bolts securing the
Fuel Pump (Carbureted Models)........................... 4-41 check valves to the pump. Account for two gas-
Air-Intake Silencer (Carbureted Models) ............... 4-42 kets.
Air-Intake Silencer (Crossfire/M-Series)................ 4-42
Air-Intake Silencer (F-Series)................................ 4-42 10. Remove the check valves. Account for two gas-
Gas Tank/Seat Assembly ...................................... 4-44 kets.

4-37
INSTALLING

1. In turn on each front union bolt, install a gasket,

Synchronizing
check valve, and gasket; then install on the oil- Oil-Injection Pump
injection pump.
2. Place the gasket and oil-injection pump near the „NOTE: On certain models, the oil pump cable
engine; then install the lower union bolt through a adjuster is located at the juncture of the throttle
gasket, check valve, and gasket. cable.

3. Position the oil-injection pump on the engine mak- ! CAUTION

ing sure the oil-injection pump gear is correctly
aligned with the oil-injection pump drive gear. Use a 100:1 fuel mixture for the following procedure.

4. Secure the pump with two screws, lock washers (if

applicable), and washers (if applicable). Tighten 370/570 cc
screws to 1.1 kg-m (8 ft-lb).
5. Connect the two oil-delivery hoses to the adapter
plates. Secure with clamps.
6. Connect the oil-injection cable/control rod to the
pump and secure.
7. Connect the oil-supply hose to the oil-injection
pump inlet fitting. Secure with the clamp.
8. Bleed the oil-injection system (see Bleeding Oil-
Injection System in this sub-section). 728-713A

9. Check the oil-injection system synchronization 500 cc

(see Synchronizing Oil-Injection Pump in this sub-
section). Tighten the jam nuts securely.
„NOTE: On EFI models to install the exhaust sys-
tem and the air silencer, see Section 2.

10. Install the carburetors/throttle bodies.

11. On carbureted models, turn the shut-off valve to
the OPEN position.

742-331A

600 cc

738-338C

4-38
 800/1000 cc
Bleeding Oil-Injection
System
(370/500/570 cc)

! CAUTION
Whenever bleeding the oil-injection system, use a
100:1 gas/oil mixture in the gas tank to ensure ade-
quate engine lubrication. Failure to use the 100:1
mixture during oil-injection system bleeding will
742-326A result in severe engine damage.

INSPECTING/ADJUSTING/ 1. Fill the oil reservoir with recommended injection

SYNCHRONIZING oil.

1. With the engine off on models with a cable oper- ! CAUTION

ated oil pump, disconnect the throttle cable from
the throttle lever. On the F5 model, do not remove the oil bleed plug for
this procedure.
2. Pull the throttle cable to the FULL-OPEN posi-
tion; then using a suitable clamping device, secure 2. On remaining models, place an absorbent towel
the cable in this position. below the oil bleed plug; then remove the bleed
plug from the pump. Allow the oil to flow through
! CAUTION
the oil-supply hose until the hose is filled with oil
and free of air bubbles; then install the bleed plug. 4
Care must be taken when securing the cable not to
kink or damage the cable. „NOTE: To aid in bleeding the oil system, blow
into the vent hose to force the oil toward the pump.
„NOTE: On models with a control rod operated The oil reservoir cap must be on for this proce-
oil pump, rotate the control arm until it contacts dure.
the stop screw.
3. Using a shielded safety stand, raise the rear of the
3. Check to be sure the mark on the control arm is snowmobile. Engage the brake lever lock; then
aligned with alignment mark on the oil pump boss. start the engine and allow it to idle.
4. If the marks are not aligned, adjust synchroniza- 4. Using a stiff wire with a hooked end, pull the con-
tion by loosening the jam nut(s) on the adjuster. trol arm upward to the full-open position.
Rotate the jam nuts/adjuster nut until proper align-
ment is attained. Tighten jam nut(s). ! WARNING
5. Return the control arm/throttle cable to the Keep hands and clothing away from all moving or
CLOSED position. rotating parts.

„NOTE: On models with a cable operated oil 5. Idle the engine until oil flowing to the top of the
pump, connect the throttle cable to the throttle oil-delivery hoses is free of air bubbles.
lever.
6. When oil flows free of all air bubbles, shut the
„NOTE: When the cable/linkage adjusting nut is engine off and check for leakage.
adjusted correctly, the throttle lever will move
7. Release the brake lever lock.
approximately 3.2 mm (1/8 in.) before the oil-injec-
tion pump control arm begins to move. This will
ensure the throttle/ignition monitor switch will
function properly and will prevent spark plug foul-
ing at low RPM operation.

6. Inspect all oil hoses that they are full of oil. If they
are not full of oil or air bubbles are detected,
bleeding is necessary.

4-39
 Bleeding Oil-Injection Testing
System Oil-Injection Pump
(600/800/1000 cc)
„NOTE: These tests must be made with the
„NOTE: The oil reservoir must be full for this snowmobile and the oil at a “room” temperature of
procedure and the oil bleed plug should not be 20°-30° C (68°-86° F).
removed.
! WARNING
! CAUTION Always wear safety glasses when performing this
Whenever bleeding the oil-injection system, use a test.
100:1 gas/oil mixture in the gas tank to ensure ade-
quate engine lubrication. Failure to use the 100:1 1. Disconnect the oil pump cable/control rod from
mixture during oil injection system bleeding will the control arm on the pump.
result in severe engine damage.
2. Clamp off the oil-supply hose between the oil res-
1. With the ignition switch and the emergency stop ervoir and oil pump; then remove the supply hose
switch in the OFF position and the brake lever from the pump.
lock engaged, secure the throttle lever to the 3. Attach a suitable length of oil-supply hose to the
handlebar in the fully open position. oil pump; then using Oil Injection Usage Tool (p/n
2. Using a needle-nose pliers, apply pressure to the 0644-007), fill the hose with Arctic Cat Synthetic
oil pump control rod connector until it snaps free APV 2-Cycle Oil.
of the throttle body pulley. Take care to maintain „NOTE: On all engines, use Arctic Cat Synthetic
the control rod in the fully open position. APV 2-Cycle Oil (p/n 2639-512). Use of any other oil
3. Use a length of wire to secure the control rod in will cause inaccurate oil consumption readings.
the fully open position away from the throttle
linkage. „NOTE: When filling the oil-supply hose with oil, do
not insert the usage tool until it is tight in the hose.
4. Remove the restraint from the throttle lever at the There must be enough room around the tip of the
handlebar and allow it to go to the fully closed tool and the hose to allow air in the hose to escape.
(idle) position.
4. Fill the usage tool with recommended oil to the 0 line.
! CAUTION
5. Wipe the tip of the tool to remove excess oil; then
Assure that the throttle linkage has returned to the attach the tool to the oil-supply hose and remove
fully closed (idle) position and has not remained in a the bulb.
partial open position.
6. Secure the tool to the oil reservoir by twisting the
5. Start the engine and allow it to idle for five min- rubber strap one half turn and placing the rubber
utes to ensure the pump is properly bled. strap around the tool and the oil reservoir filler
neck.
6. Shut the engine off and allow it to cool; then
remove the wire from the control rod and using a „NOTE: On Crossfire/M-Series to access the oil
suitable pliers, install the control rod connector pump, tip the snowmobile on its left side; then
onto the throttle body pulley. using a torx-bit, remove the screws securing the
center belly pan (skid plate) to the front end.
! CAUTION
7. Remove the oil bleed plug from the oil pump; then
When installing the control rod connector, care must
allow the oil to drain from the pump until test oil is
be taken to ensure the socket and ball are properly visible. Install the bleed plug; then refill the usage
aligned and even pressure is applied or damage to tool to the 0 line.
the connector could occur.
„NOTE: On the 600/800/1000 cc, the control rod
must be secured in the FULL-CLOSED (Idle) posi-
tion. It is advisable to secure the rod to a conve-
nient engine component away from any moving
parts. Securing the rod prevents misalignment of
the control arm due to engine/chassis movement.

4-40
 ! WARNING
KEY
1. Gasket
Keep hands and clothing away from all moving or 2. Check Valve
3. Gasket
rotating parts.
4. Union

8. With the control arm secured in the FULL-

CLOSED (Idle) position, start the engine and run
the engine at recommended RPM for 3 minutes.
Compare the amount of oil used against the speci-
fications on the chart.
9. With the control arm secured in the FULL-OPEN
position (line-to-line), run the engine at recom-
mended RPM for 2 minutes. Compare the amount 731-551A
of oil used against the specifications on the chart. 2. Attach the vacuum test pump hose to the check valve.
Oil Consumption 3. Squeeze the vacuum pump handle and watch the
FULL-CLOSED pump gauge. The check valve should release at
MODEL RPM (Idle)
FULL-OPEN 4.5-5 lb and again reset itself at 3.5-4 lb. If
3 Minutes
2 Minutes “release” and “reset” are not within specifications,
370 cc 2000 0.9-1.9 cc 4.9-6.6 cc
replace the check valve.
500 cc 1833 1.0-2.5 cc 7.4-10.3 cc 4. Record the “release” and “reset” readings for the
570 cc 2000 1.4-2.2 cc 6.9-9.4 cc valve; then perform the test on the other valve.
The “release” and “reset” readings must fall within
600 cc 1833 1.3-3.2 cc 10.9-15.2 cc specifications and must be within 1.5 lb of each
800 cc
1000 cc
1833
1833
2.1-4.5 cc
2.2-4.9 cc
12.7-17.6 cc
15.8-22.0 cc
other. If either or both are not met, replace the
check valves. 4
10. If the oil-injection pump output does not meet the 5. If the check valves are within specifications but
specifications, see Testing Oil-Injection Check the oil-injection usage is not, replace the oil-injec-
Valves in this sub-section. tion pump.

11. Disconnect the oil usage tool, remove the plug

from the reservoir, attach the oil-supply hose to the Fuel Pump
oil reservoir, and remove the vacuum pump. (Carbureted Models)
12. Bleed the oil-injection system (see appropriate
Bleeding Oil-Injection System in this sub-section). PRELIMINARY CHECKS
„NOTE: After testing the oil pump, it is critical
that the oil pump is correctly synchronized with
1. Make sure the gas tank shut-off valve is in the
OPEN position.
the carburetor(s)/throttle bodies (see Synchroniz-
ing Oil-Injection Pump on page 38 in this section). 2. Make sure there is adequate gasoline in the gas
tank.

Testing Oil-Injection 3. Make sure all hoses are clear and free of kinks and
obstructions.
Check Valves
4. Make sure the fuel filter is not plugged or damaged.

In the event there is an engine problem due to lack of 5. Make sure fuel and impulse hoses are in good condition.
lubrication, the oil-injection pump check valves should
be tested using a vacuum pump to make sure the check 6. Make sure there is evidence of good impulse at the
valves are operating properly. crankcase impulse fitting.

When testing the check valves, remove them from the TESTING PRESSURE
pump assembly.
1. Connect a pressure gauge between fuel pump and
1. Remove the check valves from the oil-injection pump. carburetor using a piece of fuel hose and a T-fitting.
2. Place snowmobile on a safety stand and start the
engine. At the following engine speeds, the speci-
fied pressures must be indicated.

4-41
 RPM psi kg/cm²
Air-Intake Silencer
1000-2000 3.0-3.5 0.21-0.25
(Crossfire/M-Series)
3000-4000 4.5-5.5 0.32-0.39
5000-6000 6.0-7.0 0.42-0.49 The air-intake silencer is a specially designed compo-
3. Remove gauge and hose and connect fuel hose to nent used to silence the incoming fresh air and also to
carburetor. catch the fuel that “spits back” out of the throttle body.
The throttle body is calibrated with the air-intake
TESTING VACUUM silencer in position; therefore, the engine must never
be run with the air-intake silencer removed.
„NOTE: Make sure adequate fuel is in the carbu-
retor for this test. REMOVING

1. Turn the gas tank shut-off valve to the CLOSED 1. Remove the two hood pins securing the hood to
position; then disconnect fuel supply hose from the front end; then carefully move the hood back
the shut-off valve. allowing it to rest against the handlebar.

2. Connect a vacuum gauge directly to the fuel pump 2. Remove the two screws securing the ECU to the
inlet fitting. air silencer.
3. With snowmobile on a safety stand, start the 3. Using a #20 torx-bit, remove the three screws
engine and accelerate to 2000-3000 RPM for a securing the air silencer to the front bumper
period of 30 seconds. Note maximum reading of assembly. Account for the position of the hood
gauge. Reading must be within the range listed. screen.
Acceptable Fuel Pump Vacuum (2-3000 RPM) CLEANING AND INSPECTING
in.-hg mm-hg
1. Check for holes or cracks in the silencer.
7-10 175-250
2. Periodically clean the silencer by blowing fresh
4. Stop engine. Connect fuel hose. Turn the shut-off air through it.
valve to the OPEN position.
3. Inspect the air silencer boot and connector for
cracks or wear.
Air-Intake Silencer
(Carbureted Models) INSTALLING
1. Position the hood screen to the front bumper
The air-intake silencer is a specially designed compo- assembly; then install the air silencer into the
nent used to silence the incoming fresh air and also to front end.
catch the fuel that “spits back” out of the carburetors.
The carburetors are calibrated with the air-intake
silencer in position; therefore, the engine must never 2. Secure the air silencer with the three screws.
be run with the air-intake silencer removed.
3. Secure the ECU to the air silencer with the two
„NOTE: To remove and install the air-intake screws.
silencer, see Section 2.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING Air-Intake Silencer

1. Check for holes or cracks in the silencer. (F-Series)
2. Periodically clean the silencer by removing the „NOTE: A number of servicing procedures for the
cover/tool tray assembly and vacuuming the inte- F-Series will require that the air silencer be
rior of the silencer. removed and installed. Pay close attention to the ■
NOTE: preceding a particular servicing procedure
that will direct the technician to this section and
sub-section for removing/installing the air silencer.

REMOVING
1. Remove the hood and the left-side and right-side
access panels; then remove the torx-head screws
securing the console.

4-42
 7. Remove the cap screw located directly above the
ECU securing the air-silencer duct to the front
upper panel; then disconnect the air temperature
sensor and remove the duct.
„NOTE: To aid in accessing the cap screw, the
ECU may be removed.

8. Remove the body screws and flange nuts (C) from

each side securing the front bumper assembly to
the chassis; then remove the two remaining self-
tapping screws (B) from each side securing the
front bumper assembly. Remove the assembly.
741-722A
„NOTE: At this point, remove the air-intake silencer
2. Lift the rear of the console and disconnect the con- and account for the rubber exhaust bumper.
sole/main harness plug-in; then remove the console.
CLEANING AND INSPECTING
3. Remove the springs securing the expansion chamber;
then remove the expansion chamber from the engine 1. Check for holes or cracks in the silencer.
compartment. Account for the two exhaust gaskets.
2. Periodically clean the silencer by blowing fresh air
4. With the seat adjusted to its lowest position, through it.
remove the self-tapping screw from the right-side
seat adjustment track; then remove the seat. 3. Inspect the silencer dual intake boot and seals for
cracks or wear.
INSTALLING
1. Install the air silencer onto the throttle bodies mak-
4
ing sure the dual intake boot is properly positioned
and seated.
„NOTE: To aid in installing the air silencer, it can
be helpful to remove the air silencer cover and
work the intake boot over the throttle body from
inside the silencer.

ZJ100A
5. Remove the torx-head screws securing the handle-
bar close-off panel; then remove the panel.
6. Remove the lock nuts and torx-head cap screws
(A) securing the right-side front and rear spar pan-
els; then remove the torx-head screws (D) securing
the left-side rear spar panel to the gas tank and
support tube.

FS201A
2. Place the front bumper assembly (with spar pan-
els) into position on the snowmobile; then secure
the front and rear spar panels together with the
torx-head cap screws and lock nuts (A). Tighten
the lock nuts securely.

742-207A

„NOTE: The right-side rear spar panel will remain

secured to the chassis.

4-43
 8. Place the rubber exhaust bumper into position on
the air silencer.

742-207A
3. Install the body screws and lock nuts (C) from
each side and the self-tapping screws (B) from
each side securing the front bumper assembly to FS203A

the chassis. Tighten all hardware securely. 9. Place gaskets on the resonator and exhaust manifold;
then install the expansion chamber. Secure the cham-
4. Connect the air temperature sensor and place the ber to manifold and upper frame with the springs.
sensor harness beneath the air-intake duct; then
install the duct into the silencer. 10. Secure the console to the steering support with the
torx-head screws and tighten the screws securely;
„NOTE: To aid in installing the duct, it can be then close the left-side and right-side access panels
helpful to apply a thin film of WD-40 to the air and close the hood.
silencer seal and to work the duct back and forth
until the sleeve of the duct is properly seated into
the silencer.

! CAUTION
Make sure to place the sensor harness beneath the air-
intake duct to avoid contact with exhaust components.

5. Secure the air-intake duct to the upper frame with

the cap screw. Tighten securely.
„NOTE: If the ECU was removed to gain access
to the duct cap screw, install the ECU using the
two cap screws. Tighten the cap screws securely; 741-722A

then connect the harness plug-ins to the ECU.

Gas Tank/Seat
Assembly

„ NOTE: To service the gas tank/seat assembly,

see Section 7.

FS202A
6. Using the illustration following step 2, secure the
left-side rear spar panel to the gas tank and support
tube with the three torx-head screws (D). Tighten
the screws securely.
7. Install the seat; then install the machine screw
(threads coated with blue Loctite #243) to the right
side of the seat support.

4-44
 SECTION 5 — ENGINE
ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS

TABLE OF
CONTENTS

Electrical Specifications Chart ................................ 5-2

Electrical Specifications (Individual)........................ 5-3
Testing Electrical Components................................ 5-7
Troubleshooting/Testing Ignition System
EFI Models........................................................... 5-7
Fan Cooled Models .............................................. 5-8
Throttle Position Sensor
(EFI Models) ...................................................... 5-11
5
Testing Electrical Resistances
500/600 cc Models............................................. 5-12
800/1000 cc Models........................................... 5-14
370 cc Model...................................................... 5-15
570 cc Model...................................................... 5-17
Voltage Regulator Test (Carbureted Models) ........ 5-19
Chassis Control Unit Voltage Test (EFI Models) ... 5-19
Servomotor Test .................................................... 5-19
Potentiometer Test ................................................ 5-20
Peak Voltage Tests
(Carbureted Models) .......................................... 5-20
Peak Voltage Tests (500/600 cc Models) .............. 5-21
Peak Voltage Tests (800/1000 cc Models) ............ 5-22
Testing Low-Oil Light Sensor................................. 5-23
Testing High Temperature Sensor ......................... 5-23
Testing High Temperature Warning Light .............. 5-23
Testing Fuel Gauge ............................................... 5-23
Testing Fuel Gauge Sender .................................. 5-24
Testing Electric Fuel Pump.................................... 5-24
Electric Start Components
Solenoid ............................................................. 5-24
Fuse ................................................................... 5-24
Ignition Switch - Electric Start Function ............. 5-25
Starter Motor ...................................................... 5-25
Troubleshooting Electric Start ............................ 5-32
Ignition Timing ....................................................... 5-32
Ignition Timing Specifications
(Table of Contents) ............................................... 5-32
Ignition Timing Specifications................................ 5-33

5-1
 Electrical
Specifications Chart

IGNITION TIMING SPARK SPARK LIGHTING

ENGINE IGNITION (Engine Warm @ 2000 RPM) PLUG PLUG GAP IGNITION
MODEL COIL OUTPUT
MODEL MANUFACTURER TYPE
Degrees mm in. (NGK) mm in. @3000 RPM
370 cc AA37A9 Kokusan 18 2.012 0.079 BR9EYA 0.7- 0.028- OPEN 12V/185W
Denki 0.8 0.031
500 cc AX50L6 Kokusan 12 0.867 0.034 BR9EYA 0.7- 0.028- OPEN 12V/280W
Denki 0.8 0.031
570 cc AA56A6 Kokusan 20 2.522 0.099 BR9EYA 0.7- 0.028- OPEN 12V/210W
Denki 0.8 0.031
600 cc AJ60L4 Kokusan 15 1.509 0.059 BR9EYA 0.7- 0.028- OPEN 12V/280W
Denki 0.8 0.031
800 cc AB80L1 Kokusan 15 1.509 0.059 BR9EYA 0.7- 0.028- OPEN 12V/280W
Denki 0.8 0.031
1000 cc AB10L1 Kokusan *12 1.062 0.042 BR9EYA 0.7- 0.028- OPEN 12V/280W
Denki **15 1.655 0.065 0.8 0.031
* F-Series/Crossfire
** M-Series

5-2
 Electrical
Specifications
(370 cc)

„NOTE: The ignition system is a Normally Open Ignition (NOI).

Resistance Test
Description + Test Connections -
Test Value
Ignition Coil
Primary (External) 0.26-0.35 ohm orange black
Secondary 6800-10,200 ohms high tension wire high tension wire
Stator Coil (Charge) 128-192 ohms red/white black/red
Lighting Coil 0.17-0.26 ohm yellow yellow
Spark-Plug Cap 4000-6000 ohms cap end cap end
Description Test Value + Test Connections -
Voltage Regulator 11-14 AC volts yellow brown
Low Oil-Light Sending Unit Less than 1 ohm terminal terminal
(float end down)
Ignition Switch Less than 1 ohm terminal terminal
(key in OFF position)
Description Peak Voltage Test + Test Connections -
Primary Coil (External) 170-187V orange black
Stator Coil (Charge) 200-220V red/white black/red
Lighting Coil 9.0-9.9V yellow yellow

Peak Voltage Tests were made with the Fluke Model 73 Multimeter (p/n 0644-191) set to the DC Volt scale and the
Peak Voltage Reading Adapter (p/n 0644-307) with the main harness connectors plugged in, spark plugs removed
5
and grounded, and by pulling the recoil starter rope briskly.
„NOTE: Lighting coil output is unregulated voltage.

! WARNING
Most voltages generated by the ignition system are sufficient to interrupt pacemakers! All technicians, espe-
cially those using pacemakers, must avoid contact with all electrical connections when pulling the recoil starter
rope or after the engine has been started.

5-3
 Electrical
Specifications
(570 cc)

„NOTE: The ignition system is a Normally Open Ignition (NOI).

Resistance Test
Description + Test Connections -
Test Value
Ignition Coil
Primary (External) 0.26-0.35 ohm orange black/white
Secondary 6800-10,200 ohms high tension wire high tension wire
Charge Coil (1) 12-18 ohms black/red green/red
Charge Coil (2) 12-18 ohms brown/white green/red
Ignition Timing Sensor 148-222 ohms green/white brown
Lighting Coil 0.12-0.18 ohm yellow yellow
Spark-Plug Cap 4000-6000 ohms cap end cap end
Description Test Value + Test Connections -
Voltage Regulator 11-14 AC volts yellow brown
Low Oil-Light Sending Unit Less than 1 ohm terminal terminal
(float end down)
Ignition Switch Less than 1 ohm terminal terminal
(key in OFF position)
Description Peak Voltage Test + Test Connections -
Primary Coil (External) 185-204V orange black
Charge Coil (1) 69-76V black/red green/red
Charge Coil (2) 79-87V brown/white green/red
Ignition Timing Sensor 1.4-1.6V green/white brown
Lighting Coil 7.0-7.7V yellow yellow

Peak Voltage Tests were made with the Fluke Model 73 Multimeter (p/n 0644-191) set to the DC Volt scale and the
Peak Voltage Reading Adapter (p/n 0644-307) with the main harness connectors plugged in, spark plugs removed
and grounded, and by pulling the recoil starter rope briskly.
„NOTE: Lighting coil output is unregulated voltage.

! WARNING
Most voltages generated by the ignition system are sufficient to interrupt pacemakers! All technicians, espe-
cially those using pacemakers, must avoid contact with all electrical connections when pulling the recoil starter
rope or after the engine has been started.

5-4
 Electrical
Specifications
(500/600 cc Models)

„NOTE: The ignition system is a Normally Open Ignition (NOI).

Resistance Test
Description + Test Connections -
Test Value
Ignition Coil
Primary 0.24-0.36 ohm black/orange orange/red
Secondary 6800-10,200 ohms high tension wire high tension wire
Charge Coil (1) 7.20-10.8 ohms black/red green/red
Charge Coil (2) 7.20-10.8 ohms brown/white green/red
Lighting Coil 0.08-0.12 ohm yellow yellow
Ignition Timing Sensor 148-222 ohms (500 cc) green/white brown/green
80.8-121 ohms (600 cc)
Injection Coil 15.2-22.8 ohms blue/white blue/white
Fuel Pump Coil 1.52-2.28 ohms orange orange
Spark-Plug Cap 4000-6000 ohms cap end cap end
Description Test Value + Test Connections -
Chassis Control Unit* 10-15 DC Volts red/blue (low power) black (low power)
red/black (high power) black (high power)
Servomotor (600 cc) 12 DC Volts red/black (counterclockwise) black/red (counterclockwise)
black/red (clockwise) red/black (clockwise)
Low Oil-Light Sending Unit Less than 1 ohm (float end down) terminal terminal
Coolant Temperature Sensor Open
(coolant temperature lower than 190°F)
terminal ground
5
Up to 20 ohms terminal ground
(coolant temperature higher than 230°F)
Coolant Temperature Less than 10 ohms terminal terminal
Warning Light
Ignition Switch Less than 1 ohm (key in OFF position) terminal terminal
Description Peak Voltage Test + Test Connections -
Primary Coil* 104V black/orange orange/red
Charge Coil (1) 13.2-14.1V black/red green/red
Charge Coil (2) 13.6-14.2V brown/white green/red
Lighting Coil 8.3V yellow yellow
Ignition Timing Sensor 4.8V green/white brown/green
Injection Coil 13.2V blue/white blue/white
Fuel Pump Coil 12.8V orange orange
Lighting Coil 14.8-22.2V (@ 2000 RPM) yellow brown
* Harness plugged in
Peak Voltage Tests were made at room temperature with the MaxiClips (p/n 0744-041), Fluke Model 73 Multime-
ter (p/n 0644-191) set to the DC Volt scale, and the Peak Voltage Reading Adapter (p/n 0644-307). Also, the main
harness connectors must be unplugged (except on the primary coil/CCU tests), the spark plugs removed and
grounded, and by pulling the recoil starter rope briskly.
„NOTE: Lighting coil output is unregulated voltage.

! WARNING
Most voltages generated by the ignition system are sufficient to interrupt pacemakers! All technicians, espe-
cially those using pacemakers, must avoid contact with all electrical connections when pulling the recoil starter
rope or after the engine has been started.

5-5
 Electrical
Specifications
(800/1000 cc Models)

„ NOTE: The ignition system is a Normally Open Ignition (NOI).

Resistance Test
Description + Test Connections -
Test Value
Ignition Coil
Primary 0.24-0.36 ohm black/white white/blue
Secondary 5040-7560 ohms high tension wire high tension wire
Charge Coil (1) 7.20-10.8 ohms black/red green/red
Charge Coil (2) 7.20-10.8 ohms brown/white green/red
Lighting Coil 0.08-0.12 ohms yellow yellow
Ignition Timing Sensor (1) 148-222 ohms blue/white brown/green
Ignition Timing Sensor (2) 142-222 ohms green/white brown/green
Injection Coil 15.2-22.8 ohms blue/white blue/white
Fuel Pump Coil 1.52-2.28 ohms orange orange
Spark-Plug Cap 4000-6000 ohms cap end cap end
Description Test Value + Test Connections -
Chassis Control Unit* 10-15 DC Volts red/blue (low power) brown (low power)
red/black (high power) black (high power)
Servomotor 12 DC Volts red/black (counter- black/red (counter-
clockwise) clockwise)
black/red (clockwise) red/black (clockwise)
Low Oil-Light Sending Unit Less than 1 ohm (float end down) terminal terminal
Coolant Temperature Sensor Open terminal ground
(coolant temperature lower than 190°F)
Up to 20 ohms terminal ground
(coolant temperature higher than 230°F)
Coolant Temperature Warning Light Less than 10 ohms terminal terminal
Ignition Switch Less than 1 ohm (key in OFF position) terminal terminal
Description Peak Voltage Test + Test Connections -
MAG Primary Coil (Harness Side)* 125-137V orange/red orange/black
PTO Primary Coil (Harness Side)* 126-139V white/red white/black
Charge Coil (1) 13.6-14.8 black/red green/red
Charge Coil (2) 13.5-14.6 brown/white green/red
Lighting Coil 5.4-5.8V yellow yellow
Ignition Timing Sensor (1) 4.3V blue/white brown/green
Ignition Timing Sensor (2) 4.4V green/white brown/green
Injection Coil 12V blue/white blue/white
Fuel Pump Coil 12.3V orange orange
Lighting Coil 14.8-22.2V (@ 2000 RPM) yellow brown
* Main harness plugged in
Peak Voltage Tests were made at room temperature with the MaxiClips (p/n 0744-041), Fluke Model 73 Multime-
ter (p/n 0644-191) set to the DC Volt scale, and the Peak Voltage Reading Adapter (p/n 0644-307). Also, the main
harness connectors must be unplugged (except on primary coil/CCU tests), the spark plugs removed and grounded,
and by pulling the recoil starter rope briskly.
„NOTE: Lighting coil output is unregulated voltage.

! WARNING
Most voltages generated by the ignition system are sufficient to interrupt pacemakers! All technicians, espe-
cially those using pacemakers, must avoid contact with all electrical connections when pulling the recoil starter
rope or after the engine has been started.

5-6
 A. Defective emergency stop switch
Testing Electrical B. Defective safety switch in throttle-control
Components housing
C. Corroded or loose wire connection at the throt-
All tests of the engine electrical components should be tle-control housing or main wiring harness
made using the digital Fluke Model 73 Multimeter (p/
n 0644-191). Replace any component that does not D. Defective ignition switch
have a test value within specifications. „NOTE: To check these possible causes, proceed
„NOTE: Whenever using a digital-style tester, to Testing Ignition System.
“open (infinite resistance)” denotes an overload
and the meter reading will be OL since the meter is
not calibrated to register resistance values of that Testing Ignition System
magnitude. (EFI Models)
„NOTE: Whenever testing switches, less than 1
ohm is desirable with the switch in the activated „NOTE: There must be free-play between the
position. throttle lever and the control housing.

MAIN WIRING AND SAFETY

SWITCHES
Troubleshooting
Ignition System 1. Check the wiring connections coming from the
(EFI Models) ignition key and emergency stop switches. The
throttle control switch connector is located on the
front side of the steering post. If any of the con-
When troubleshooting the standard “normally open” nections appear dirty or corroded, clean them with
ignition system, use the following procedure. fine sandpaper and compressed air; then connect
all wires and squeeze the connections with a pliers
1. Remove the spark plugs and visually check their
condition. Replace any fouled plug. Attach the
for additional tightness. 5
spark plugs to the high tension leads and ground 2. Disconnect the main wiring harness connector
them on the cylinder heads. coming from the engine stator assembly. Discon-
necting this connector will bypass the main wiring
! CAUTION harness and all switches which will not allow the
engine to be shut off without first installing an
Before checking for spark, place all the engine additional auxiliary ground wire.
switches in the deactivated position. In the event the
engine could be flooded, pull the starter rope (slowly 3. Insert an auxiliary ground wire into the black wire
at first) several times to clear the engine of excess of the four-wire main harness connector on the
fuel. engine side. To stop the engine once it has been
started, touch the auxiliary ground wire to the
! CAUTION engine.
Never crank the engine over without grounding the 4. Support the rear of the snowmobile up on a
spark plugs. Damage to coils and/or CDI unit may shielded safety stand; then set the brake lever lock.
result. Inspect the complete throttle mechanism to assure
that it's working properly.
„NOTE: Make sure the ignition switch and the
emergency stop switch are in the ON position. 5. Attempt to start the engine. To stop the engine (if
the engine starts), touch the auxiliary ground wire
2. Crank the engine over and check for spark. If no installed into the four-wire connector to a ground
spark is present, check to make sure the throttle on the engine. If the engine fails to start, the prob-
cable is properly tensioned. Compress the throttle lem is with the coils mounted on the engine, high
control and while holding the throttle control in tension coil assembly, or the ECU. If the engine
this position, crank the engine over and check for starts, the problem is with the switches, main wir-
spark. If spark is now present, adjust the throttle ing harness, or throttle cable free-play.
cable tension.
IGNITION KEY SWITCH
3. If no spark is present, disconnect the main wiring
harness from the engine. Crank the engine over. If 1. Disconnect the ignition key switch connectors;
spark is present, the problem is either one or more then connect the ohmmeter leads to each of the
of the following: ignition key switch terminals.

5-7
 2. With the switch in the OFF position, the meter
must read less than 1 ohm of resistance. ! CAUTION
Never crank the engine over without grounding the
3. With the switch in the ON position, the meter must spark plugs. Damage to coils and/or CDI unit may
read OL (infinite resistance). result.
THROTTLE CONTROL SWITCH „NOTE: Make sure the ignition switch and the
emergency stop switch are in the ON position.
1. Verify that the throttle cable has free-play between
the throttle lever and control housing. 2. Crank the engine over and check for spark. If no
spark is present, check to make sure the throttle
2. Disconnect the throttle control switch connector; cable is properly tensioned. Compress the throttle
then connect one ohmmeter lead to the brown wire control and while holding the throttle control in
and the other lead to the black/white wire of the this position, crank the engine over and check for
emergency stop switch. spark. If spark is now present, adjust the throttle
cable tension.
3. With the throttle lever in the idle position and the
emergency stop knob in the up (RUN) position, „NOTE: On all models, there must be 0.75-1.5 mm
the meter must read no resistance (open). If the (0.030-0.060 in.) free-play between the throttle lever
meter reads resistance (closed), replace the switch. and the control housing.
4. With the throttle lever in the idle position and the
emergency stop knob in the down (STOP) posi-
tion, the meter must read resistance (closed). If the
meter reads no resistance (open), replace the
switch. With the emergency stop knob still in the
down (STOP) position, move the throttle lever to
the wide open position. The meter must read no
resistance (open). If the meter reads resistance
(closed), replace the switch.
5. Connect one ohmmeter lead to the brown wire and
the other lead to the violet wire. With the emer-
gency stop knob in the down (STOP) position, the
meter must read resistance (closed). If the meter
reads no resistance (open), replace the switch. 733-081C
With the emergency stop knob in the up (RUN) 3. If no spark is present, disconnect the main wiring
position, the meter must read no resistance (open). harness from the engine. Crank the engine over. If
If the meter reads resistance (closed), replace the spark is present, the problem is either one or more
switch. of the following.
A. Defective emergency stop switch
Troubleshooting B. Defective safety switch in throttle-control
Ignition System housing
(Fan Cooled Models)
C. Grounded or shorted wire connection at the
throttle-control housing or main wiring harness
When troubleshooting the standard “normally open”
ignition system, use the following procedure. D. Defective ignition switch

1. Remove the spark plugs and visually check their „NOTE: To check these possible causes, proceed
condition. Replace any fouled plug. Attach the to Testing Ignition System. If no spark is present,
spark plugs to the high tension leads and ground proceed to Arctic Cat Ignition Analyzer in this sec-
them on the cylinder heads. tion.

! CAUTION
Before checking for spark, place all the engine Testing Ignition System
switches in the deactivated position. In the event the (Single Carburetor F/C Models)
engine could be flooded, pull the starter rope (slowly
at first) several times to clear the engine of excess
„NOTE: The throttle control is equipped with a
fuel.
two-wire throttle control switch connector. There
must be 0.75-1.5 mm (0.030-0.060 in.) throttle cable
free-play between the throttle lever and the control
housing.

5-8
MAIN WIRING AND SAFETY THROTTLE CONTROL SWITCH
SWITCHES
„NOTE: The throttle control has a two-wire wiring
1. Check the wiring connections coming from the harness connector located on the front side of the
ignition key and throttle control switches. The steering post. Whenever working with a two-wire
two-wire throttle control switch connector is throttle control switch, the throttle cable must be
located on the front side of the steering post. If any adjusted so there is 0.75-1.5 mm (0.030-0.060 in.)
of the connections appear dirty or corroded, clean free-play between the throttle lever and control
them with fine sandpaper and compressed air; then housing.
connect all wires and squeeze the connections with
a pliers for additional tightness. 1. Verify that the throttle cable has the specified
2. Disconnect the main wiring harness four-wire con- amount of free-play between the throttle lever and
nector coming from the engine stator assembly. control housing.
Disconnecting the connector will bypass the main 2. Disconnect the two-wire throttle control switch
wiring harness and all switches which will not connector; then connect the ohmmeter leads to
allow the engine to be shut off without first install- each of the switch wires.
ing an additional auxiliary ground wire.
3. With the throttle lever in the idle position and the
3. Insert an auxiliary ground wire into the black wire emergency stop knob in the down (STOP) posi-
of the four-wire main harness connector on the tion, the meter must read resistance (closed). If the
engine side. To stop the engine once it has been meter reads no resistance (open), replace the
started, touch the auxiliary ground wire to the switch.
engine.
4. Depress the throttle lever with the emergency stop
4. Support the rear of the snowmobile up on a knob in the up (RUN) position. The meter must
shielded safety stand; then set the brake lever lock. read no resistance (open). If the meter reads resis-
Inspect the complete throttle mechanism to assure tance (closed), replace the switch.
that it's working properly.
5. With the throttle lever depressed and the emer-
5. Attempt to start the engine. To stop the engine (if gency stop knob in the down (STOP) position, the
the engine starts), touch the auxiliary ground wire
installed into the four-wire connector to a ground
on the engine. If the engine fails to start, the prob-
meter must read resistance (closed). If the meter
reads no resistance (open), replace the switch. 5
lem is with the coils mounted on the engine, high
tension coil assembly, or the CDI unit. If the
engine starts, the problem is with the switches, Testing Ignition System
main wiring harness, or throttle cable free-play. (Twin Carburetor F/C Models)
MAIN HARNESS
„NOTE: There must be 0.75-1.5 mm (0.030-0.060
1. Disconnect the main wiring harness four-wire con- in.) free-play between the throttle lever and the
nector coming from the engine stator assembly. control housing (see Section 4 - Adjusting Carbu-
Connect one ohmmeter lead to the violet wire and retors).
the other lead to the brown wire on the chassis side
of the main wiring harness four-wire connector. MAIN WIRING AND SAFETY
With all switches in the RUN position, the meter SWITCHES
must read no resistance (open).
1. Check the wire connections at the ignition key
2. If the meter reads resistance (closed), test the Igni- switch and at the emergency stop switch. This con-
tion Key Switch and Throttle Control Switch inde- nector is located on the front side of the steering
pendently of each other. post. If any of the connections appear dirty or cor-
roded, clean with fine sandpaper and compressed
IGNITION KEY SWITCH air; then connect all wires and squeeze connec-
tions with a pliers for added tightness.
1. Disconnect the ignition key switch connectors;
then connect the ohmmeter leads to each of the 2. Disconnect the main wiring harness connector
ignition key switch terminals. coming from the engine. Using an ohmmeter, con-
nect one lead to the black wire in the connector of
2. With the key switch in the OFF position, the meter the main harness. Connect the remaining ohmme-
must read resistance (closed). If the meter reads no ter lead to the brown wire in the connector of the
resistance (open), the switch must be replaced. main harness.

5-9
 3. With all switches in the RUN position, the meter IGNITION KEY SWITCH
must read resistance (closed). If the meter reads no
resistance (open), proceed to testing Emergency 1. If the meter read resistance (closed) in the previ-
Stop/Throttle Switch, Carburetor Safety Switches, ous test, disconnect the ignition key switch con-
and Ignition Key Switch. nectors and connect the ohmmeter leads to each of
the leads from the switch.
EMERGENCY STOP/
THROTTLE SWITCH 2. With the key switch in the OFF position, the meter
must read resistance (closed). If the meter reads no
1. If the meter read no resistance (open) in the previ- resistance (open), replace the switch.
ous test, locate the wiring harness coming from the
emergency stop/throttle switch assembly. SYNCHRONIZING CARBURETOR
SAFETY SWITCHES
2. Disconnect the three-wire connector. Using an
ohmmeter, connect one meter lead to the black Before synchronizing the carburetor safety switches,
wire and the other meter lead to the black/red wire check to make certain the carburetor idle speed screws
in the connector. are adjusted equally and the piston valves are synchro-
nized. The carburetor safety switches affect ignition
3. With the emergency stop knob, located on top of spark at idle only. If ignition spark problems are
the throttle control, in the ON (pulled up) position observed at partial or full-throttle positions, the prob-
and the throttle lever compressed, the meter must lem is not with the carburetor safety switches.
read resistance (closed).
„NOTE: There must be 0.75-1.5 mm (0.030-0.060
4. If the meter reads no resistance (open) and the in.) free-play between the throttle lever and the
lever/control housing free-play is correct, replace control housing.
the throttle switch.
5. If the meter reads resistance (closed) but the 1. Inspect the cable free-play gap between the throt-
engine will not start, with the ohmmeter leads still tle lever and the control housing at idle. Adjust the
connected, alternately release and compress the throttle cable swivel adapter at the top of each car-
throttle lever; then move the emergency stop knob buretor for 0.75-1.5 mm (0.030-0.060 in.) cable
down and up. free-play gap between the throttle lever “nibs” and
the control housing. While observing if there is
6. The meter must read no resistance (open) when the any cable free-play gap, apply slight pressure to
throttle lever is released and the emergency stop the throttle lever to take up any cable slack that
knob is in either the UP or the DOWN position. may be present. However, do not apply enough
pressure to actually raise the carburetor slides dur-
7. If the meter reads resistance (closed), replace the ing this adjustment. After cable free-play is prop-
throttle switch. erly adjusted, tighten the jam nut on each
carburetor securely.
8. Connect one meter lead to the black/red wire and
the other meter lead to the black/white wire.
9. With the throttle lever released (idle position) and
the emergency stop knob in the DOWN position,
the meter must read no resistance (open).
10. If above tests were good, proceed to testing Carbu-
retor Safety Switches and Ignition Key Switch.
CARBURETOR SAFETY SWITCHES

1. If the meter read no resistance (open) in the previ-

ous test, disconnect the carburetor safety switches
one at time and test for a closed circuit.
0741-518
2. Attach the two ohmmeter leads to the two leads 2. To determine which switch needs adjusting, dis-
coming from each carburetor switch. The meter connect both carburetor safety switches from the
must read resistance (closed). main wiring harness connector.
3. If the meter reads no resistance (open), the switch 3. Connect a digital ohmmeter to one carburetor
must either be adjusted or replaced (see Synchro- safety switch connector; then compress the throttle
nizing Carburetor Safety Switches in this sub-sec- lever while observing the meter reading and mea-
tion). If the meter reads resistance (closed), sure the gap between the throttle lever and control
proceed to testing Ignition Key Switch. housing at the moment the meter reading changes
from open to closed. Repeat this step for the other
carburetor safety switch.

5-10
„NOTE: The correct throttle lever/housing gap 8. Observe the tachometer and the drive clutch to
should be in a range of 9.5 - 12.7 mm (0.375-0.500 determine the moment the carburetor safety
in.) the moment the meter reading changes from switches shut down the ignition. Since retaining
open to closed. A switch that changes from open the throttle lever pin prevents the switch in the
to closed before the other one is the switch that throttle control housing from closing, the carbure-
must be raised to attain safety switch synchroniza- tor safety switches should shut down the ignition
tion.
at or slightly after clutch engagement.
9. Repeat steps 6-8 several times. If ignition shut-
down always occurs at or slightly after clutch
engagement, the carburetor safety switches are
synchronized.
10. Again, inspect the gap between the throttle lever
and the control housing at idle. Adjust the throttle
cable swivel adapter at the top of each carburetor
for 0.75-1.5 mm (0.030-0.060 in.) cable free-play
gap between the throttle lever “nibs” and the con-
trol housing. While observing if there is any cable
free-play gap, apply slight pressure to the throttle
lever to take up any cable slack that may be
present. However, do not apply enough pressure to
0742-349 actually raise the carburetor slides during this
4. If an adjustment is necessary, loosen the switch adjustment. After cable free-play is properly
bracket screws, move the switch up, tighten the adjusted, tighten the jam nut on each carburetor
screws, and then reset using step 3. securely.
„NOTE: After completion of any adjustments,
„NOTE: After completion of any adjustments,
throttle lever “side pressure” should not cause an
throttle lever “side pressure” should not cause an
ignition miss at idle. Carburetor safety switches
ignition miss at idle. Carburetor switches set too
set too low or an excessively tight throttle cable
low or an excessively tight throttle cable makes
the shutdown system very sensitive to throttle
lever “side pressure” near idle. To test carburetor
makes the shutdown system very sensitive to
throttle lever “side pressure” near idle. 5
safety switch synchronization, follow steps 5-9.

5. Reconnect the carburetor safety switch connec- Throttle Position

tors. Place the rear of the snowmobile on a
shielded safety stand; then start the engine and
Sensor
allow it to warm up for 3-4 minutes. (EFI Models)
6. Hold both the top and bottom of the throttle lever
pin so that depression of the throttle lever does not „NOTE: Ignition timing specifications are located
move the lever pin in its control slot. on the Electrical Specifications Chart in this sec-
tion.

TESTING TPS
When checking ignition timing, it is important that the
timing light be connected to the number 1 spark plug
wire, which is the MAG-side cylinder. If the number 2
cylinder spark plug wire is used, the timing light may
show a 2° error in ignition timing when ignition timing
is actually correct.
For example, the correct ignition timing on the 500 cc
is 12° ± 2° BTDC at 2000 RPM.
To quickly check TPS operation, measure the timing
0728-916
according to the chart; then disconnect the TPS wiring
7. Slowly depress the throttle lever to increase engine and recheck the timing. A system with a functioning
RPM. TPS will show a change in the timing. This is known
as “Fail-Safe Ignition Timing” and is built into the sys-
„NOTE: It is very important that engine RPM be tem to protect the engine should the TPS fail. If this
allowed to increase slowly, since most engines change is not seen, the TPS may have failed and must
have a “rich area” at approximately 2500 RPM. be checked.

5-11
If the ignition timing isn’t 12° ± 2° at 2000 RPM, the 6. If the TPS is within the prescribed specification,
TPS should be checked for proper adjustment using disconnect the adjustment tool harness from the
the Throttle Position Sensor Adjustment Tool Kit (p/n TPS. Connect the snowmobile TPS harness to the
3639-891) and a digital voltmeter. TPS.
VERIFYING TPS ADJUSTMENT „NOTE: Before installing the TPS harness connec-
TOOL tor, apply dielectric grease to the connector pins.

Before using the TPS adjustment tool, verify its bat- FAIL-SAFE IGNITION TIMING
tery condition. The battery used in the tool is a 9-volt
battery. To check battery condition, use a digital volt/ Engines equipped with throttle position sensor have a
ohmmeter set on DC volt scale. Test between the protective feature called “fail-safe” ignition timing
adjustment tool black and red jacks. Insert the red lead which prevents engine damage should the TPS fail. If
of the digital voltmeter into the red jack of the adjust- the TPS does fail, the engine will run normally at low
ment tool and the black lead of the digital voltmeter RPM but will run poorly at high RPM. This will allow
into the black jack of the adjustment tool. The green the operator to get the snowmobile to safety with little
power light of the analyzer should now be illuminated. or no engine damage.
If voltage is found below 4.9 volts, replace the battery.
„NOTE: The engine will continue to operate this
„NOTE: The battery used in the tool is a 9-volt bat- way until the TPS is replaced.
tery; also, the Test Harness (p/n 0686-999) must be
plugged into the analyzer for testing voltage.
Testing Electrical
CHECKING TPS
Resistances
„NOTE: If the snowmobile is in warranty, breaking (500/600 cc Models)
the seal on the idle screw jam nut or the Phillips-
head screws on the TPS will void warranty. If the „NOTE: Resistance tests of the engine electrical
TPS is tested out of specification, the throttle components should be made using the Fluke Mul-
assembly must be replaced. timeter only. Analog-style multitesters may not be
accurate enough to use in these critical tests.
„NOTE: Before using the TPS adjustment tool,
Replace any component that does not have a test
verify its battery condition.
value within specifications.
1. Using Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Adjustment
Tool Kit (p/n 3639-891), connect its wiring har- IGNITION COIL (Primary)
ness to the TPS. Connect the red and black digital
voltmeter leads to the white and black jacks of the 1. Disconnect the double wire plug from the ECU to
TPS adjustment tool. the ignition coil.

2. Ensure that the throttle cable/control rod has the 2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
proper amount of free-play. 3. Connect the red meter lead to the black/orange
3. With the throttle in the idle position, compare the lead; then connect the black meter lead to the
reading on the voltmeter to the chart. If the reading orange/red lead.
is within prescribed specification, proceed to step 4.

Engine Idle Position Wide-Open Position

500 cc 0.714-0.814 3.507-4.014
600/800 cc 0.646-0.754V 3.472-4.0485V
1000 cc 0.595-0.695V 3.477-4.054V

4. Compress the throttle lever slowly to the full-open

position. The meter reading should show a smooth
rise in voltage all the way to the full-open throttle
position. If the voltage seems to be erratic or
doesn’t meet the prescribed specification, repeat
this procedure several times to confirm results.
FS247A
5. If the full-open throttle voltage remains erratic or 4. Ignition coil primary resistance must be between
out of specification; replace the throttle body 0.24-0.36 ohm.
assembly.

5-12
IGNITION COIL (Secondary) 3. Connect the red meter lead to the brown/white
wire in the plug; then connect the black meter lead
1. Remove the spark-plug caps from the high tension to the green/red wire in the plug.
wires.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. Connect the red meter lead to one high tension
wire; then connect the black meter lead to the
other high tension wire.

AK013
4. Charge coil (2) resistance must be between 7.20-
10.8 ohms.
LIGHTING COIL

AK050D
1. Disconnect the main wiring harness from the
engine.
4. Ignition coil secondary resistance must be between
6800-10,200 ohms. 2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
CHARGE COIL (1) 3. Connect the two meter leads to each of the yellow
leads in the connector from the engine.
1. Disconnect the triple-wire plug from the ECU to
the magneto. 5
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. Connect the red meter lead to the black/red wire in
the plug; then connect the black meter lead to the
green/red wire in the plug.

AK015
4. Lighting coil resistance must be between 0.08-
0.12 ohm.
IGNITION TIMING SENSOR

1. Disconnect the timing sensor connector (green/

AK014
white and brown/green) from the ECU.
4. Charge coil (1) resistance must be between 7.20- 2. Set the selector in the OHMS position; then con-
10.8 ohms. nect the meter leads to the sensor leads.
CHARGE COIL (2) 3. Ignition timing sensor resistance must be between
148-222 ohms (500 cc) or 80.8-121 ohms (600 cc).
1. Disconnect the triple-wire plug from the ECU to
the magneto. SPARK-PLUG CAP

2. Set the selector in the OHMS position. 1. Remove the spark-plug caps from the high tension
wires.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.

5-13
 3. In turn on each cap, touch a tester lead to each end 2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
of the spark-plug cap.
3. Connect the red meter lead to one high tension
wire; then connect the black meter lead to the
other high tension wire.

B170
4. Spark-plug cap resistance must be between 4000-
6000 ohms.
AK050D
IGNITION SWITCH 4. Ignition coil secondary resistance must be between
5040-7560 ohms.
1. Remove the main wiring harness connectors from
the ignition switch. CHARGE COIL (1)
2. Rotate the key to the OFF position.
1. Disconnect the triple-wire plug from the main wir-
3. The meter must read less than 1 ohm resistance ing harness to the magneto.
between the ignition switch terminals.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
4. Rotate the key to the RUN position.
3. Connect the red meter lead to the black/red wire in
5. The meter must read OL (infinite resistance). the plug; then connect the black meter lead to the
green/red wire in the plug.

Testing Electrical
Resistances
(800/1000 cc Models)

„NOTE: Resistance tests of the engine electrical

components should be made using the Fluke Mul-
timeter only. Analog-style multitesters may not be
accurate enough to use in these critical tests.
Replace any component that does not have a test
value within specifications.

IGNITION COIL (Primary) AK014

4. Charge coil (1) resistance must be between 7.20-
1. Disconnect the double wire plug from the ECU to 10.8 ohms.
the ignition coil.
CHARGE COIL (2)
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
1. Disconnect the triple-wire plug from the ECU to
3. Connect the red meter lead to the black/white lead; the magneto.
then connect the black meter lead to the white/blue
lead. 2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
4. Ignition coil primary resistance must be between 3. Connect the red meter lead to the brown/white
0.24-0.36 ohm. wire in the plug; then connect the black meter lead
to the green/red wire in the plug.
IGNITION COIL (Secondary)

1. Remove the spark-plug caps from the high ten-

sion wires.
5-14
 AK013 B170
4. Charge coil (2) resistance must be between 7.20- 4. Spark-plug cap resistance must be between 4000-
10.8 ohms. 6000 ohms.
LIGHTING COIL IGNITION SWITCH

1. Disconnect the main wiring harness from the 1. Remove the main wiring harness connectors from
engine. the ignition switch.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position. 2. Rotate the key to the OFF position.
3. Connect the two meter leads to each of the yellow 3. The meter must read less than 1 ohm resistance
leads in the connector from the engine. between the ignition switch terminals.
4. Rotate the key to the RUN position.
5. The meter must read OL (infinite resistance).

Testing Electrical 5
Resistances
(370 cc Model)

„NOTE: Resistance tests of the engine electrical

components should be made using the Fluke Mul-
timeter only. Analog-style multitesters may not be
AK015
accurate enough to use in these critical tests.
4. Lighting coil resistance must be between 0.08- Replace any component that does not have a test
0.12 ohm. value within specifications.
IGNITION TIMING SENSOR IGNITION COIL (Primary)
1. Disconnect the two timing sensor connectors 1. Disconnect the two connectors from the CDI unit
(blue/white and brown/green - #1) and (green/ to the ignition coil.
white and brown/green - #2) from the ECU.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position; then con-
nect the meter leads to the sensor leads. 3. Connect the red meter lead to the orange lead; then
connect the black meter lead to the black lead.
3. Ignition timing sensor resistance must be between
148-222 ohms.
SPARK-PLUG CAP

1. Remove the spark-plug caps from the high tension

wires.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. In turn on each cap, touch a tester lead to each end
of the spark-plug cap.

5-15
 AK051D AK013
4. Ignition coil primary resistance must be between 4. Stator (charge) coil resistance must be between
0.26-0.35 ohm. 128-192 ohms.
IGNITION COIL (Secondary) LIGHTING COIL

1. Remove the spark-plug caps from the high tension 1. Disconnect the main wiring harness from the
wires. engine.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position. 2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. Connect the red meter lead to one high tension 3. Connect the two meter leads to each of the yellow
wire; then connect the black meter lead to the leads in the connector from the engine.
other high tension wire.

AK015
AK050D 4. Lighting coil resistance must be between 0.17-
4. Ignition coil secondary resistance must be between 0.26 ohm.
6800-10,200 ohms.
SPARK-PLUG CAP
STATOR COIL (Charge)
1. Remove the spark-plug caps from the high tension
1. Disconnect the triple-wire plug from the CDI unit wires.
to the magneto.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. In turn on each cap, touch a tester lead to each end
3. Connect the red meter lead to the red/white wire in of the spark-plug cap.
the plug; then connect the black meter lead to the
black/red wire in the plug.

5-16
 B170 AK051D
4. Spark-plug cap resistance must be between 4000- 4. Ignition coil primary resistance must be between
6000 ohms. 0.26-0.35 ohm.
IGNITION SWITCH IGNITION COIL (Secondary)

1. Remove the main wiring harness connectors from 1. Remove the spark-plug caps from the high tension
the ignition switch. wires.
2. Rotate the key to the OFF position. 2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. The meter must read less than 1 ohm resistance 3. Connect the red meter lead to one high tension
between the ignition switch terminals. wire; then connect the black meter lead to the
other high tension wire.
4. Rotate the key to the RUN position.
5. The meter must read OL (infinite resistance).

Testing Electrical 5
Resistances
(570 cc Model)

„NOTE: Resistance tests of the engine electrical

components should be made using the Fluke Mul-
timeter only. Analog-style multitesters may not be
accurate enough to use in these critical tests.
AK050D
Replace any component that does not have a test
value within specifications. 4. Ignition coil secondary resistance must be between
6800-10,200 ohms.
IGNITION COIL (Primary) CHARGE COIL (1)
1. Disconnect the double wire plug from the CDI unit 1. Disconnect the three-wire plug from the CDI unit
to the ignition coil. to the magneto.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position. 2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. Connect the red meter lead to the orange wire in 3. Connect the red meter lead to the black/red wire in
the plug; then connect the black meter lead to the the plug; then connect the black meter lead to the
black/white wire in the plug. green/red wire in the plug.

5-17
 2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. Connect the red tester lead to the green/white wire;
then connect the black tester lead to the brown
wire.
4. Ignition timing sensor resistance must be between
148-222 ohms.
LIGHTING COIL

1. Disconnect the main wiring harness from the

engine.
AK014 2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
4. Charge coil (1) resistance must be between 12-18
ohms. 3. Connect the two meter leads to each of the yellow
leads in the connector from the engine.
CHARGE COIL (2)

1. Disconnect the three-wire plug from the CDI unit

to the magneto.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. Connect the red meter lead to the brown/white
wire in the plug; then connect the black meter lead
to the green/red wire in the plug.

AK015
4. Lighting coil resistance must be between 0.12-
0.18 ohm.
SPARK-PLUG CAP

1. Remove the spark-plug caps from the high tension

wires.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
AK013
4. Charge coil (2) resistance must be between 12-18 3. In turn on each cap, touch a tester lead to each end
ohms. of the spark-plug cap.

IGNITION TIMING SENSOR

1. Disconnect the green/white and brown wires from

the timing sensor to the main harness.

B170
4. Spark-plug cap resistance must be between 4000-
6000 ohms.

AO102D

5-18
IGNITION SWITCH „NOTE: Test specifications are on the Electrical
Specifications (individual) pages in this section.
1. Remove the main wiring harness connectors from
the ignition switch. ! WARNING
2. Rotate the key to the OFF position. Most voltages generated by the ignition system are
sufficient to interrupt pacemakers! All technicians,
3. The meter must read less than 1 ohm resistance especially those using pacemakers, must avoid con-
between the ignition switch terminals. tact with all electrical connections after the engine
has been started.
4. Rotate the key to the RUN position.
5. The meter must read OL (infinite resistance). „NOTE: The CCU tests were made with the con-
nectors plugged in, spark plugs removed and
grounded, and by pulling the recoil starter rope
Voltage Regulator Test briskly.
(Carbureted Models)
LOW POWER
„NOTE: The following test should be made using 1. Connect the red maxiclip and meter lead to the
MaxiClips (p/n 0744-041) and the Fluke Model 73 red/blue lead of the connector; then connect the
Multimeter (p/n 0644-191) set to the AC Volt scale. black maxiclip and meter lead to the black lead of
the connector.
„NOTE: Test specifications are on the Electrical
Specifications (Individual) pages in this section. 2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly.
3. Meter reading must be within specification.
This test should be made at the accessory connector of
the hood harness. „Repeat test three times to confirm results.

! WARNING HIGH POWER

Most voltages generated by the ignition system are
sufficient to interrupt pacemakers! All technicians,
1. Connect the red maxiclip and meter lead to the
red/black lead; then connect the black maxiclip
5
especially those using pacemakers, must avoid con- and meter lead to the black lead.
tact with all electrical connections after the engine
has been started. 2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly.
1. Connect the red maxiclip and meter lead to the 3. Meter reading must be within specification.
yellow wire in the connector; then connect the
black maxiclip and meter lead to the brown wire in „NOTE: Repeat this test three times to confirm
the connector. results.

2. Start the engine and allow it to idle. Meter reading

must be within specification. Servomotor Test
Chassis Control „NOTE: A 12-volt battery and test leads will be
Unit Voltage Test needed for this test.
(EFI Models)
1. Remove the servomotor from the snowmobile.

„NOTE: The following test should be made using ! CAUTION

MaxiClips (p/n 0744-041) and the Fluke Model 73
Multimeter (p/n 0644-191) set to the DC Volt scale. Care must be taken not to contact the servo yellow,
orange, or black/white terminals, or damage to the
potentiometer circuit will result.

2. Contact the red/black servo terminal with the bat-

tery positive lead; then contact the black/red servo
terminal with the battery negative lead.
3. The servo should rotate when the negative lead
contacts the black/red terminal. Note the direction
of rotation.

5-19
 4. Reverse the connections on the servo terminals: The Fluke Multimeter w/Adapter can perform the fol-
positive lead to black/red and negative lead to red/ lowing tests.
black. The servomotor should rotate in the oppo-
site direction. A. Stator/Charge Coil(s) Output

5. Install the servomotor. B. Lighting Coil Output

„NOTE: If the servo operates correctly in the C. Primary Coil Output
above test but fails to operate when connected to
„NOTE: Peak Voltage Tests were made with con-
the ECU/CDI at the designated RPM, proceed to
nectors plugged in, spark plugs removed and
Potentiometer Test.
grounded, and by pulling the recoil starter rope
briskly.

Potentiometer Test ! WARNING

Most voltages generated by the ignition system are
„NOTE: The following test should be made using sufficient to interrupt pacemakers! All technicians,
MaxiClips (p/n 0744-041) and the Fluke Model 73 especially those using pacemakers, must avoid con-
Multimeter (p/n 0644-191) set to the ohms scale. tact with all electrical connections when making
these tests.
1. Remove the servomotor from the snowmobile.
2. Connect the red maxiclip and meter lead to the STATOR (Charge) COIL OUTPUT
black/white servo terminal; then connect the black (370 cc)
maxiclip and meter lead to the yellow servo termi-
nal. 1. Connect the red meter lead to the red/white wire
from the stator; then connect the black meter lead
3. Rotate the servo pulley counterclockwise. The to the black/red wire from the stator.
ohms should increase as the pulley is rotated until
it reaches 4700-5000 ohms. 2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
must be within specification.
4. Continue the pulley rotation, and there will be a
small area in the rotation at which the ohm reading LIGHTING COIL OUTPUT
will disappear; then it will return again.
1. Connect the red meter lead to one yellow wire; then
5. Continue the pulley rotation, and the ohms should connect the black meter lead to the other yellow wire.
appear at a very low value but will again increase
to 4700 ohms. This is normal operation. 2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
must be within specification.
6. Install the servomotor.
CHARGE COIL (1) OUTPUT (570 cc)
„NOTE: If the servo operates correctly and the
potentiometer test is correct but fails to operate 1. Connect the red meter lead to the black/red wire;
when connected to the ECU/CDI at the designated then connect the black meter lead to the green/red
RPM, replace the ECU/CDI. wire.
2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
must be within specification.
Peak Voltage Tests
(Carbureted Models) CHARGE COIL (2) OUTPUT (570 cc)

1. Connect the red meter lead to the brown/white

„NOTE: The following tests should be made using
wire; then connect the black meter lead to the
the Fluke Model 73 Multimeter (p/n 0644-191) set to green/red wire.
the DC Volt scale with Peak Voltage Reading
Adapter (p/n 0644-307). 2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
must be within specification.
„NOTE: Peak voltage test specifications are on the
Electrical Specifications (Individual) pages in this PRIMARY COIL OUTPUT
section.
1. Connect the red meter lead to the orange wire;
then connect the black meter lead to the black wire
(370 cc) or to the black/white wire (570 cc).
2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
must be within specification.

5-20
 INJECTOR COIL
Peak Voltage Tests 1. Test between the two blue/white leads in the con-
(500/600 cc Models) nector harness from the stator plate.

„NOTE: The following tests should be made

2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
must be within specification.
using the Fluke Model 73 Multimeter (p/n 0644-191)
set to the DC Volt scale with Peak Voltage Reading CHARGE COIL (1) OUTPUT
Adapter (p/n 0644-307). For “engine running” test,
use MaxiClips (p/n 0744-041). 1. Test between the black/red and green/red wires in
the triple-plug connector from the stator.
„NOTE: Peak voltage test specifications are on
the Electrical Specifications (Individual) pages in 2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
this section. must be within specification.

The Fluke Multimeter w/Adapter can perform the fol- CHARGE COIL (2) OUTPUT
lowing output tests.
1. Test between the brown/white and green/red wires
A. Fuel Pump Coil in the triple-plug connector from the stator.
B. Injector Coil 2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
must be within specification.
C. Charge Coil (1) Output
IGNITION TIMING SENSOR
D. Charge Coil (2) Output
1. Test between the green/white and brown/green
E. Ignition Timing Sensor wires in the connector from the sensor.
F. Primary Coil Output 2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
G. Lighting Coil Output must be within specification.

„NOTE: Peak Voltage Tests (unless otherwise

indicated) were made with connectors unplugged,
PRIMARY COIL OUTPUT 5
spark plugs removed and grounded, and by pull- 1. Connect the red meter lead to the black/orange
wire; then connect the black meter lead to the
ing the recoil starter rope briskly.
orange/red wire.
! WARNING 2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
must be within specification.
Most voltages generated by the ignition system are
sufficient to interrupt pacemakers! All technicians, LIGHTING COIL OUTPUT
especially those using pacemakers, must avoid con-
tact with all electrical connections when pulling the 1. Connect the red meter lead to one yellow wire;
recoil starter rope or after the engine has been then connect the black meter lead to the other yel-
started. low wire.

FUEL PUMP COIL 2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
must be within specification.
1. Test between the two orange/white wires in the
four-prong connector from the stator. LIGHTING COIL OUTPUT
(@ 2000 RPM)
2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
must be within specification. 1. Attach the red maxiclip to the yellow lead; then
attach the black maxiclip to the brown lead.
2. Connect the red meter lead to the red maxiclip;
then connect the black meter lead to the black
maxiclip.
3. With the rear of the snowmobile on a shielded
safety stand, run the engine at 2000 RPM.
4. Meter reading must be within specification.

5-21
 CHARGE COIL (1) OUTPUT
Peak Voltage Tests 1. Test between the black/red and green/red wires in
(800/1000 cc Models) the triple-plug connector from the stator.

„NOTE: The following tests should be made using

2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
must be within specification.
the Fluke Model 73 Multimeter (p/n 0644-191) set to
the DC Volt scale with Peak Voltage Reading CHARGE COIL (2) OUTPUT
Adapter (p/n 0644-307). For “engine running” test,
use MaxiClips (p/n 0744-041). 1. Test between the brown/white and green/red wires
in the triple-plug connector from the stator.
„NOTE: Peak voltage test specifications are on the
Electrical Specifications (Individual) pages in this 2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
section. must be within specification.

The Fluke Multimeter w/Adapter can perform the fol- IGNITION TIMING SENSOR (1 and 2)
lowing output tests.
1. Test between the blue/white (1) or the green/white
A. Fuel Pump Coil (2) and brown/green wires in the connector from
the sensor.
B. Injector Coil
2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
C. Charge Coil (1) Output must be within specification.
D. Charge Coil (2) Output PRIMARY COIL OUTPUT (MAG/PTO)
E. Ignition Timing Sensor (1 and 2) 1. Connect the red meter lead to the orange/red wire
F. Primary Coil Output (MAG/PTO) (MAG) or to the white/red wire (PTO); then con-
nect the black meter lead to the orange/black wire
G. Lighting Coil Output (MAG) or to the white/black wire (PTO).
„NOTE: Peak Voltage Tests (unless otherwise indi- 2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
cated) were made with connectors unplugged must be within specification.
(except on primary coil test), spark plugs removed
and grounded, and by pulling the recoil starter
LIGHTING COIL OUTPUT
rope briskly. 1. Connect the red meter lead to one yellow wire;
then connect the black meter lead to the other yel-
! WARNING low wire.
Most voltages generated by the ignition system are 2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
sufficient to interrupt pacemakers! All technicians, must be within specification.
especially those using pacemakers, must avoid con-
tact with all electrical connections when pulling the LIGHTING COIL OUTPUT (@ 2000
recoil starter rope or after the engine has been RPM)
started.
1. Attach the red maxiclip to the yellow lead; then
FUEL PUMP COIL attach the black maxiclip to the brown lead.

1. Test between the two orange wires in the four- 2. Connect the red meter lead to the red maxiclip;
prong connector from the stator. then connect the black meter lead to the black
maxiclip.
2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
must be within specification. 3. With the rear of the snowmobile on a shielded
safety stand, run the engine at 2000 RPM.
INJECTOR COIL
4. Meter reading must be within specification.
1. Test between the two blue/white leads in the con-
nector harness from the stator plate.
2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
must be within specification.

5-22
 2. Connect an ohmmeter between the sensor terminal
Testing Low-Oil and any convenient chassis ground (or any brown
wire). The ohmmeter must read less than 20 ohms
Light Sensor of resistance with the water temperature more than
+230°F. The ohmmeter must read no resistance
with the water temperature less than +190°F.
The low-oil light sensor is a magnetic switch. Its oper-
ation is based on a magnet located around the inside „NOTE: If the sensor has been removed from the
diameter of a 1/2 in. hole in a plastic float. The switch engine for testing purposes, immerse the sensor
located in the stem of the sending unit is positioned body (only up to the threads) in automatic trans-
through the hole in the float. When the float drops to mission fluid and slowly heat the fluid. The ohm-
the lower part of the stem, the magnet closes the elec- meter must indicate the above resistances when
trical contacts (located in the stem) allowing the cur- connected between the sensor terminal and the
rent to pass on to the warning light. sensor body/chassis.
If the sensor should fail, it must be replaced. To test
the sensor, use the following procedure.
1. Remove the sensor from the oil reservoir by twist-
Testing
ing and pulling upwards. Wipe excess oil from the High Temperature
sensor. Warning Light
2. Unplug the sensor from the wiring harness.
„NOTE: Prior to testing the warning light, verify
3. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.
that there is a 10-13V DC power supply from the
4. Touch each of the meter leads to one of the two white/blue wire at the main/console connector and
wires coming from the sensor. With the sensor in to the plug-in at the gauge.
its normal position (float end down), the meter
should read resistance. 1. Remove the torx-head cap screws securing the
console to the steering support; then move the con-
5. If the meter reads no resistance, check to make sole out of the way.
sure good contact has been made with each of the
wires coming from the sensor. If the meter still 2. Temporarily insert a jumper wire to the white/blue 5
reads no resistance, replace the sensor. wire from the console wiring harness connector at
the gauge to any convenient chassis ground (or
6. While maintaining contact between the meter any brown wire).
leads and the sensor, raise the float. The meter
must read no resistance. If the meter reads resis- 3. If the high temperature warning light is not illumi-
tance, replace the sensor. nated with the engine running (and the harness ter-
minal grounded), test the light bulb. An ohmmeter
7. If the sensor tested out satisfactory but the light must read less than 10 ohms across the bulb fila-
doesn’t illuminate with only a small amount of oil ment.
in the reservoir, check the bulb.
4. If the bulb does not illuminate even when tested
8. If the bulb is in good condition, check for voltage good, use the ohmmeter to test the bulb harness.
at the connection where the sensor plugs into the Also test the red/white wire continuity from the
accessory wiring harness. Using a multimeter set temperature sensor connector to the bulb connector.
on the 50 ACV scale, start the engine and allow it
to idle. Touch the red lead of the voltmeter to the
red wire in the two-prong connector. Touch the
black lead to the black wire in the wiring harness.
Testing Fuel Gauge
At idle, the meter should read 5 to 6 volts (AC). If
no voltage is present but the lights on the snowmo- 1. Remove the torx-head cap screws securing the
bile operate normally, either check the wiring har- console to the steering support; then move the con-
ness for a broken wire or replace the harness. sole out of the way.
2. With the meter selector set to the DC Volt position,
Testing High connect the red meter lead to the gray wire of the
Temperature Sensor connector plug-in (at the gauge); then connect the
black meter lead to a chassis ground.
3. With the rear of the snowmobile on a shielded
1. Disconnect the main wiring harness connector safety stand, run the engine at 2000 RPM.
from the temperature sensor.
4. Meter reading must be within 10-15V DC at the
gauge.

5-23
„NOTE: If the voltage is within specification at the
gauge, the gauge is faulty and must be replaced. Solenoid
(Electric Start Models)
Testing Fuel
Gauge Sender TESTING

„NOTE: The electric start solenoid may be tested

1. On the F-Series, remove the torx-head cap screws using either one of the following methods.
securing the console to the steering support; then
move the console out of the way. Method #1

2. On the Crossfire/M-Series, remove the close-out 1. Disconnect the electric start harness from the main
panel. wiring harness.
3. Disconnect the fuel gauge sender unit from the 2. Place the ohmmeter leads across the solenoid coil
main wiring harness. terminals (brown wire and red/white wire).
„NOTE: On the Crossfire/M-Series, test from the 3. The ohmmeter must read between 3 and 5 ohms.
black/red two-wire connector. On the F-Series, test
from the two gray wires in the four-wire connector. Method #2

4. Connect the ohmmeter leads to the two sender 1. Connect the battery to the solenoid coil terminals
wires. (brown wire and red/white wire).

5. Compare the reading to the chart following. 2. A loud, audible “click” should be heard as the
solenoid internal contacts make connection.
Fuel Gauge Sender
3. Disconnect the battery from the solenoid.
Position Ohms
Full 2.3-3.1 4. A loud, audible “click” should be heard as the
solenoid internal contacts release.
1/2 37.6-56.4
Empty 76-114 „NOTE: An in-line ammeter would measure
between 2 and 4 amps of solenoid coil current flow
with the battery connected.
Testing
Electric Fuel Pump ! CAUTION
NEVER connect an in-line ammeter with the large
starter cables because the 200 amps of current flow
1. Remove the torx-head cap screws securing the will instantly damage most ammeters.
console to the steering support; then move the con-
sole out of the way.
2. Disconnect the fuel pump sender four-wire con- Fuse
nector from the main wiring harness. (Electric Start Models)
3. Connect the positive lead of a 12-volt power sup-
ply to the red wire and the negative lead of the 12- TESTING
volt power supply to the black wire.
4. The pump should operate (it would be heard run- 1. Remove the fuse from the fuse holder.
ning). 2. Connect the ohmmeter across the fuse end-caps.
„NOTE: If the fuel pump fails to operate, the pump 3. The ohmmeter must read less than 1 ohm of resis-
is defective and must be replaced. tance.

5-24
 3. Remove the nut and washer(s) securing the posi-
Ignition Switch - tive cable; then remove cable from the starter
motor.
Electric Start Function
(Electric Start Models) 4. Remove the drive clutch.
5. Remove the hardware securing the starter motor
TESTING and end plate/drive cap assembly to the bracket;
then remove the starter motor assembly.
! CAUTION REMOVING (570 cc Model)
To prevent ohmmeter damage when testing circuits
on snowmobiles equipped with an electric start, be 1. Disconnect the battery.
sure to disconnect the battery before testing.
2. Remove the nut and washer(s) securing the posi-
tive cable; then remove cable from the starter
1. Disconnect the wiring harness from the ignition motor.
switch; then remove the switch from the console.
3. Loosen the two Allen-head screws securing the
2. Using the ohmmeter, test the connections indi- flex-drive shaft to the pinion drive; then remove
cated in the following chart. If the meter does not the hardware securing the starter motor to the
read as specified or has more than one ohm of bracket. Remove the starter motor assembly.
resistance, the switch must be replaced.
REMOVING (500/600 cc LXR Models)
Lead to Lead to Meter
Position
Terminal Terminal Reading 1. Disconnect the battery.
OFF -M +M CLOSED
ON -M +M OPEN
2. Remove the lock nuts securing the cables to the
starter motor; then remove cables from the starter
ON B A CLOSED motor.
START -M +M OPEN
3. Loosen the two Allen-head screws securing the
START B S CLOSED flex-drive shaft to the pinion drive.
5
4. Remove the lock nut securing the starter mounting
bracket to the chassis.
5. Remove the lock nuts securing the mounting
bracket to the starter motor and remove the
bracket.
REMOVING (800/1000 cc LXR
Models)

„NOTE: To remove the starter motor, the air

silencer must be removed. Proceed to the appro-
priate Air-Intake Silencer sub-section in Section 4.
0000-126

„NOTE: Some ignition-switch terminals may not

1. Disconnect the battery.
be labeled (-M, +M, A, B, or S). Refer to the wiring 2. Remove the expansion chamber and the resonator.
harness diagram of the ignition switch when con-
necting the ohmmeter. 3. Remove the lock nuts and washers securing the
cables to the starter motor; then remove the cables
from the starter motor.
Starter Motor 4. Loosen the two Allen-head screws securing the
flex-drive shaft to the pinion drive.
REMOVING (370 cc Model) 5. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the
starter motor brackets to the chassis and to the
1. Disconnect the battery. upper frame. Remove the starter motor.
2. Remove the expansion chamber.

5-25
DISASSEMBLING

„NOTE: For assembly purposes, scribe a refer-

ence line on the end plate/drive cap, commutator
cap, and the case.

1. If applicable, remove the snap ring securing the

primary gear to the starter motor; then remove the
gear and account for the spring washer.
2. Remove the two long through-bolts. As the bolts
are being removed, hold pressure against the com-
mutator cap.
AI028
6. Lift all brushes from the brush holder and account
for the four brush springs.
7. Using a 5/16-in. socket, remove the two cap
screws securing the ground brushes to the commu-
tator cap. Remove the brushes and brush holder
from the cap.

AI050
3. Slowly remove the cap and account for the four
brush holder springs.

AI036
8. Using a 7/16-in. wrench, remove the nut securing
the cable stud to the cap. Account for the number
of and the position of washers.

AI026
4. Using a plastic hammer, tap the end plate/drive
cap free of the starter case and slide the cap free
from the armature shaft. Account for any washers.

AI037
9. While holding the brush wires, pull the stud from
the end cap. Account for the plastic insulator.

AI027
5. Slide the armature free of the starter case.

5-26
CLEANING AND INSPECTING 5. Inspect the commutator cap bushing for wear.
Using a calipers, measure inner diameter at the cap
„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively, bushing. If found to be 8.6 mm (0.338 in.) or
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is larger, replace the cap.
necessary.

1. Thoroughly clean all components except the arma-

ture and brushes in parts-cleaning solvent; then
dry with compressed air.

! WARNING
When using compressed air to dry components,
always wear safety glasses.

AI031
6. Inspect the end plate/drive cap bushing for wear.
Using a calipers, measure the inner diameter of the
cap bushing. If found to be 13.2 mm (0.523 in.) or
larger, replace the cap.

AI029

! CAUTION
Do not wash the armature and brushes in any kind 5
of solvent. Use only compressed air and clean dry
cloth in cleaning these components.

2. Inspect all threaded areas for damaged or stripped

threads.
AI032
3. Inspect the brush holder assembly and brushes for 7. Inspect the brass commutator end of the armature
damage or wear. Using a calipers, measure the for any burned spots or damage. If the commutator
length of the brushes. If brush measurement is less is slightly burned or damaged, the armature must
than 7.5 mm (0.30 in.), replace brushes as a set be replaced. This is a molded commutator and no
along with new brush springs. attempt to turn it down in a lathe should be tried.

! CAUTION
Do not use emery cloth to clean the commutator as
emery particles will become imbedded in the brass
commutator resulting in a short circuit. Use only #00
grit sandpaper.

8. Inspect the commutator for buildup in the grooves.

Buildup in the grooves must be removed to pre-
vent any chance of arcing between individual sec-
tions of the commutator. Carefully remove any
buildup using a thinly ground hacksaw blade. Do
AI030 not cut any deeper than the original groove which
4. Inspect brush leads for cracks, wear, or fraying. If can be seen by looking at the commutator from the
any of these conditions exist, replace the brushes side.
as a set along with new brush springs.

5-27
 AI033

„NOTE: After cleaning any buildup from the com- 0725-653

mutator, use compressed air to clean. 11. Inspect the ground brushes to make sure they are
properly grounded. Use the multitester and the fol-
9. Inspect the armature for shorting. Use the multit- lowing procedure:
ester and the following procedure:
A. Set the selector on the OHMS position; then
A. Set the selector on the OHMS position; then touch the leads and zero the meter.
touch the leads and zero the meter.
B. Touch the black tester lead to a ground brush.
B. Touch the black tester lead to the armature
shaft. C. Touch the red tester lead to the commutator
cap. The meter needle should move to the right.
C. Using the red tester lead, probe the commutator If the needle does not move to the right, check
end of the armature. The meter indicator should that the ground connection is tight and clean.
not move. If the indicator needle moves, the Recheck for proper ground. If there still isn't
armature must be replaced. any meter needle movement, replace the
brushes as a set along with new brush springs.

AI034
10. Inspect the armature for shorting. Use a “growler” AI035
and the following procedure:
ASSEMBLING
A. Place the armature in the “growler.”
B. While holding a metal strip over the armature, 1. Install the stud with the positive brush set attached
rotate the armature an entire revolution. If the in the commutator cap. Make sure the insulator is
metal strip vibrates at any point on the arma- in position over the stud and the longest brush lead
ture, the armature is shorted and must be is positioned to the right of the stud hole.
replaced.

5-28
 AI038 AI040

! CAUTION 6. Place the four brush springs into the brush holder
and place each brush (flat side down) on top of the
Check the stud to make sure insulator is between springs.
stud and cap on backside.
„NOTE: Apply a small amount of low-temperature
2. In order from disassembling, place the washers on grease to the cap bushings.
the stud. Apply a small amount of red Loctite #271
to the stud threads and secure with the nut. Tighten 7. Place a wave washer and a thrust washer on the
to 0.7 kg-m (5 ft-lb). armature shaft; then slide the front cap into posi-
tion.
8. Apply a thin coat of grease to the armature shaft
and slide the drive gear and spring washer onto the
shaft. Secure with a snap ring.
9. Start the commutator end of the armature assem-
bly into the starter case at the end with the fields
nearest the end of the housing. Align the marks on
the front cap and case.
5

AI039
3. Place the brush holder into position in the commu-
tator cap.
„NOTE: Position the longest positive brush lead
beneath the ground wire on right side.

4. Place a cap screw through the left ground brush

lead eyelet and position the eyelet flat against the
brush holder. Secure with a cap screw.
AI042
5. Place the right ground brush eyelet flat against the 10. Compress the four brushes (flat side down) into
brush holder and secure with a cap screw. The eye- the brush holder. Hold the brushes in position
let stem must be positioned to the top of the using the Starter Assembly Tool (p/n 0644-052).
threaded hole boss in the commutator cap.

5-29
 CLEANING AND INSPECTING
PINION

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Using parts-cleaning solvent, wash grease from

the pinion gear. Dry with compressed air.

! WARNING
When using compressed air to dry components,
AI043 always wear safety glasses.
11. Carefully place the starter case and armature
assembly into the commutator cap. Again, check 2. Inspect the pinion gear for wear. If the gear is
to make sure the scribed marks of these two com- worn or chipped, replace the pinion assembly.
ponents are aligned. With the case flat on the
assembly tool, slowly pull the tool from the starter 3. Inspect the inner gear and housing. If the gear
motor. The case should then drop into place. shows any signs of wear, replace the pinion assem-
bly.
4. Inspect the inner housing for tightness and cracks.
If the housing shows any signs of being loose or
cracked, replace the pinion assembly.
5. Inspect the pinion return spring for wear. If the
spring shows any worn areas, replace the spring.
ASSEMBLING/INSTALLING PINION

1. Slide the pinion gear, spring retainer, pinion

spring, and snap-ring retainer (note end-for-end
orientation) onto the shaft in their original posi-
tions.
AI044
12. Apply red Loctite #271 to the threads of the two 2. Place new snap ring over the end of the pinion
through-bolts; then install and secure the bolts. shaft; then slide the snap ring over the shaft. Using
Tighten to 1-1.4 kg-m (7-10 ft-lb). a 11 mm or 7/16 in. socket and a hammer, gently
tap the snap ring into the groove on the shaft.
„NOTE: The starter shouldn’t be picked up until
the two through-bolts have been secured. Spring 3. Slide the dust cover over the pinion assembly
pressure from the brush springs will push the being careful not to dislodge the grease. Firmly
commutator cap off the case.
push the dust cover until it snaps into its retaining
groove.
DISASSEMBLING PINION TESTING STARTER MOTOR
1. Remove the dust cap from the end of the pinion „NOTE: Before installing the starter motor, per-
drive by first pulling straight out and then twisting form test to ensure proper operation using the fol-
the dust cap to the side. lowing procedure.
2. Place a 11 mm or a 7/16 in. socket over the end of
the pinion shaft and tap the socket gently with a 1. Attach a black jumper cable to a good ground on
hammer. the starter.

„NOTE: This procedure will dislodge the snap-ring 2. Attach the opposite end of the black jumper cable
retainer and expose the snap ring. to the negative post of a good 12V battery.
3. Attach the red jumper cable to the positive post of
3. Using a side cutter, diagonal cutter, or suitable pli- the battery.
ers, remove and discard the snap ring.
4. Remove the snap-ring retainer (note end-for-end
orientation), pinion spring, spring retainer, and
pinion gear. Retain all components.

5-30
 4. Holding the starter firmly down on a work bench, INSTALLING (500/600 LXR cc
touch the red jumper cable to the positive cable Models)
stud of the starter.
1. Place the mounting bracket to the starter motor;
! WARNING then secure with existing hardware. Tighten
securely.
Be sure to keep clear of the pinion gear area as it will
spin at a high RPM when the red cable is touched to 2. Place the flex-drive shaft into position on the pin-
the positive stud. Personal injury may result if con- ion driveshaft so the set screws are aligned with
tact is made with a spinning pinion. the flat-side of the pinion driveshaft.
„NOTE: Starter motor must instantly spin at a high 3. Place the mounting bracket/starter motor into posi-
RPM. The pinion must snap out against the stopper. tion and secure to the chassis with the lock nuts.
If the motor does not spin, remove the red cable
immediately. Check the battery condition and all 4. Attach the battery cables to the starter motor and
connections. If everything checks out satisfactorily
secure with nuts.
and the starter does not spin, disassemble the 5. Connect the battery cables (positive cable first) to
motor and check for pinched or broken wires. the battery.
INSTALLING (370 cc Model) INSTALLING
(800/1000 cc LXR Models)
1. Place the starter motor into the bracket; then
secure with existing hardware. Tighten to 1.7-2.1 1. Install the mounting bracket to the starter motor;
kg-m (12-15 ft-lb). then secure with existing hardware. Tighten
securely.
2. Attach the red positive cable to the positive stud
terminal and secure with a nut and washers. While 2. Place the flex-drive shaft into position on the pin-
tightening the nut, hold the cable in position so it ion driveshaft so the set screws are aligned with
is parallel with the starter. the flat-side of the pinion driveshaft.

! CAUTION
Check the cable installation to make sure it isn’t
5
near any moving parts or against any sharp edges.

3. Secure the positive cable to the starter motor with

a long cable tie.
4. Connect the cable to the positive post of the bat-
tery; then connect the negative cable to the nega-
tive post.
5. Install the drive clutch.
6. Install the expansion chamber. FS204
3. Place the starter motor with brackets into position
INSTALLING (570 cc Model) on the chassis and upper frame; then secure with
the cap screws and lock nuts. Tighten securely.
1. Install the flex-drive shaft onto the starter motor
and secure with the two Allen-head screws. „NOTE: For installing purposes, it may be neces-
sary to loosen the lock nut securing the bracket to
2. Place the starter motor into the bracket assembly; the starter motor.
then secure with existing hardware. Tighten to 2.4
kg-m (17 ft-lb). 4. Place the positive and negative cables on the
3. Attach the red positive cable to the positive stud starter motor; then secure with the lock nuts.
terminal and secure with a nut and washers. While Tighten securely.
tightening the nut, hold the cable in position so it
is parallel with the starter.

! CAUTION
Check the cable installation to make sure it isn’t
near any moving parts or against any sharp edges.

5-31
 Ignition Timing

„NOTE: Ignition timing can be checked and/or ver-

ified on all snowmobile engines.

CHECKING (All Models)

1. Connect a timing light to the MAG-side spark plug

lead.
2. Using a shielded safety stand, raise the rear of the
FS205A snowmobile off the floor and start the engine.
5. Connect the battery cables (positive cable first) to Gradually increase the engine speed to the speci-
the battery. fied RPM; the pointer should align with the proper
timing mark on the flywheel.
6. Install and secure the resonator and the expansion
chamber. 3. If timing is not correct, adjust the ignition timing.
„NOTE: To finalize the installing procedure, the air ADJUSTING (370 cc)
silencer must be installed. Proceed to the appro-
priate Air-Intake Silencer sub-section in Section 4. 1. Remove the recoil starter, starter pulley, and fly-
wheel.
2. Loosen the two screws securing the stator plate
Troubleshooting and rotate the stator plate in the proper direction to
Electric Start attain correct timing.
„NOTE: Rotate the stator plate clockwise to retard
the timing or counterclockwise to advance the tim-
Problem: Hot or Smoking Wires ing. The stamped marks on the stator plate at the
Condition Remedy upper socket-head cap screw mounting hole can
1. System wired incor- 1. Check wiring against wir- be used for timing.
rectly ing diagram
3. Tighten the screws securing the stator plate.
Problem: Starter Does Not Turn Over
4. Install the flywheel, starter pulley, and recoil
Condition Remedy starter.
1. Battery discharged 1. Check/charge the battery
5. Recheck timing for accuracy and adjust if neces-
2. Connection loose 2. Check tightness of all sary.
connections
3. Grounding improper 3. Check round connections
Ignition Timing
4. Fuse blown - not
installed
4. Check - replace fuse
Specifications
(Table of Contents)

370 cc.................................................................... 5-33

500 cc.................................................................... 5-33
570 cc.................................................................... 5-34
600 cc.................................................................... 5-34
800 cc.................................................................... 5-35
1000 cc (Crossfire/F-Series) ................................. 5-35
1000 cc (M-Series)................................................ 5-36

5-32
370 cc Ignition Timing - Engine Warm
BTDC - 18°/2000 RPM - 2.012 mm (0.079
„NOTE: For 6000 RPM timing purposes on the 370 in.)
cc, use a dial indicator and scribe a mark on the BTDC - 13°/6000 RPM - 1.056 mm (0.042
flywheel for 13° BTDC. in.)
Adjustable

738-950A 5
500 cc Ignition Timing - Engine Warm
BTDC - 12°/2000 RPM - 0.867 mm (0.034
in.)
Not Adjustable

0742-218

5-33
570 cc Ignition Timing - Engine Warm
BTDC - 20°/2000 RPM - 2.522 mm (0.099
in.)
Not Adjustable

0742-217

600 cc Ignition Timing - Engine Warm

BTDC - 15°/2000 RPM - 1.509 mm (0.059
in.)
Not Adjustable

740-130A

5-34
800 cc
„NOTE: For timing verification on the 800 cc, use Ignition Timing - Engine Warm
a dial indicator and scribe a mark on the flywheel BTDC - 15°/2000 RPM - 1.509 mm (0.059
for 15° BTDC. in.)
Not Adjustable

0742-215
5
1000 cc (Crossfire/F-Series) Ignition Timing - Engine Warm
BTDC - 12°/2000 RPM - 1.062 mm (0.042
in.)
Not Adjustable

0742-216

5-35
1000 cc (M-Series) Ignition Timing - Engine Warm
BTDC - 15°/2000 RPM - 1.655 mm (0.065
„NOTE: For timing verification on the 1000 cc (M- in.)
Series), use a dial indicator and scribe a mark on Not Adjustable
the flywheel for 15° BTDC.

0742-350

5-36
SECTION 6 — CHASSIS
ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS

TABLE OF
CONTENTS

Brakelight Switch (Bearcat 570/Z 570).................... 6-2

Brakelight Switch (Panther 370/Z 370).................... 6-2
Brakelight Switch (EFI Models/Panther 570)........... 6-3
Headlight Dimmer Switch

6
(Bearcat 570/Panther 370/Z 370/Z 570) .............. 6-3
Headlight Dimmer Switch
(EFI Models/Panther 570)
Testing Handlebar Warmer Elements
(Panther 370/Z 370/Z 570)................................... 6-4
Testing Handlebar Warmer Elements
(EFI Models/Panther 570) .................................... 6-5
Testing Thumb Warmer Element
(Bearcat 570/Panther 370/Z 370/Z 570) .............. 6-5
Testing Thumb Warmer Element
(EFI Models/Panther 570) .................................... 6-5
Testing Handlebar Warmer Switch
(Bearcat 570/Panther 370/Z 370/Z 570) .............. 6-5
Testing Handlebar Warmer/Thumb Warmer
Switch (EFI Models/Panther 570) ........................ 6-6
Testing Thumb Warmer Switch
(Bearcat 570/Panther 370/Z 370/Z 570) .............. 6-6
Testing Passenger Handwarmer Switch.................. 6-6
Testing Passenger Handwarmer Elements ............. 6-6
Testing Speedometer Sensor (EFI Models) ............ 6-7
Testing Reverse Alarm Switch
(Bearcat 570/Panther 370/570)............................ 6-7
Testing Reverse Alarm Switch
(Crossfire/F-Series/M-Series) .............................. 6-7
Testing Shift Actuator Switch
(Crossfire/F-Series/M-Series) .............................. 6-8
Testing Shift Actuator
(Crossfire/F-Series/M-Series) .............................. 6-8

6-1
 2. Connect the switch harness to the main wiring har-
Brakelight Switch ness. Position the wires so they will not be either
pinched or come in contact with any moving com-
(Bearcat 570/Z 570) ponents. Start the engine and check the switch for
proper operation.
TESTING/REMOVING

1. Disconnect the wiring harness from the brake con- Brakelight Switch
trol. (Panther 370/Z 370)
2. To test the brakelight switch, connect one tester
lead to the #1 (yellow) terminal; then connect the TESTING/REMOVING
other lead to the #4 (red) terminal.
1. Disconnect the wiring harness from the brake con-
trol.

Terminal Corresponding Wire Color Wire Usage

1 Yellow Power Supply
2 Blue Headlight -
High Beam
3 White Headlight -
Low Beam
4 Red Brakelight

2. Connect one tester lead to the #1 terminal; then

connect the other lead to the #4 terminal.
727-650A
3. With the brake lever compressed, the meter must
read resistance. With the brake lever released, the
meter must read no resistance. If the meter does
not read as specified, the brakelight switch is
defective and must be replaced.
4. To remove the switch, use a small screwdriver to
compress the plastic locking tabs by pushing in on
the tabs; then slide the switch free of the brake
control.

727-650A
3. With the brake lever compressed, the meter must
read less than 1 ohm of resistance. With the brake
lever released, the meter must read no resistance.
If the meter does not read as specified, the brake-
light switch is defective and must be replaced.
4. Use a small screwdriver to compress the plastic
locking tabs by pushing in on the tabs; then slide
the switch free of the brake control.

AF201D

INSTALLING

1 On push-activated style, slide the brakelight

switch into the brake control assembly until the
self-locking tabs snap into position. Give the
switch body a light pull to make sure the switch is
properly secured.

6-2
 AF907D CM108A

INSTALLING INSTALLING

1. Slide the brakelight switch into the brake control 1. Slide the brakelight switch into the brake control
assembly until the self-locking tabs snap into posi- assembly until the self-locking tabs snap into posi-
tion. Give the switch body a light pull to make tion. Give the switch body a light pull to make
sure the switch is properly secured. sure the switch is properly secured.
2. Connect the switch harness to the main wiring har- 2. Install the brake lever and secure with the pin and
ness. Position the wires so they will not be either snap ring.
pinched or come in contact with any moving com-
ponents. Start the engine and check the switch for 3. Connect the switch harness to the main wiring har-
proper operation. ness. Position the wires so they will not be either
pinched or come in contact with any moving com-
ponents. Start the engine and check the switch for
Brakelight Switch proper operation.
(EFI Models/Panther 570) „NOTE: On the F-Series, return the console to
position and secure with the two rear torx-head
screws.
TESTING/REMOVING

„NOTE: On the F-Series to access the brakelight

Headlight
6
switch connector, the two rear console torx-head
screws must be removed and the console must be Dimmer Switch
lifted upward and forward. (Bearcat 570/Panther 370/
Z 370/Z 570)
1. Disconnect the brakelight switch black and brown
two-wire connector (located below the steering
support). TESTING
„NOTE: On the Panther 570, disconnect the two-
1. Disconnect the headlight dimmer switch plug
wire connector located under the console. (located next to the air-intake silencer).
2. To test the brakelight switch, connect one tester 2. Use the tester connections indicated in the follow-
lead to the brown terminal; then connect the other ing chart. If the meter does not read as specified,
lead to the black terminal. the headlight dimmer switch is defective and must
be replaced.
3. With the brake lever compressed, the meter must
read 1 ohm or less resistance. With the brake lever Lead to Lead to
released, the meter must read OL (open). If the Position Terminal Terminal Meter Reading
meter does not read as specified, the brakelight (Wire Color) (Wire Color)
switch is defective and must be replaced.
High Beam 1 (Yellow) 2 (Blue) Less than 1 ohm
4. To remove the switch, remove the snap ring; then High Beam 1 (Yellow) 3 (White) OL
remove the pin securing the brake lever to the con- Low Beam 1 (Yellow) 2 (Blue) OL
trol assembly.
Low Beam 1 (Yellow) 3 (White) Less than 1 ohm
5. Using a small flat-blade screwdriver, compress the
tabs of the switch; then push the switch toward the
end of the handlebar and out of the control assem-
bly.
6-3
REMOVING 4. With the switch in the LO beam position, con-
nect one ohmmeter lead to pin (A) and the other
1. Remove the handlebar pad. ohmmeter lead to pin (C). The meter must read
1 ohm or less resistance.
2. Remove the screws from the cover plate securing
the dimmer switch.

CM109A

AF908D 5. With the switch in the HI beam position, con-

3. Remove the plate and lift the switch free of the nect one ohmmeter lead to pin (B) and the other
control. ohmmeter lead to pin (C). The meter must read
1 ohm or less resistance.
„ NOTE: If either test does not read within specifi-
cation, replace the complete control assembly.

INSTALLING

1. Connect the HI/LO beam harness to the switch;

then place the control assembly on the handle-
bar.
2. Secure with the four screws.
3. Install the handlebar pad (if applicable).
AF909D

INSTALLING Testing Handlebar

Warmer Elements
1. Place the dimmer switch into the control and (Panther 370/Z 370/Z 570)
secure with the cover plate and screws.
2. Connect the four-prong plug; then install and „NOTE: During this test, resistance will vary due
secure the handlebar pad. to temperature; therefore, this test should be made
at room temperature of 20° C (68° F).
Headlight Dimmer 1. Remove the handlebar pad; then disconnect the
Switch handlebar warmer two-wire connector.
(EFI Models/Panther 570)
2. In the element connector, connect the ohmmeter
between the two lead wires.
REMOVING/TESTING
3. The meter must read between 7.2 and 8.8 ohms.
1. Remove the handlebar pad (if applicable). 4. Replace any element measuring less than or more
than the specified amount.
2. Remove the four screws securing the left-side
handlebar control assembly; then remove the „NOTE: Repeat test for the other element.
control assembly from the handlebar.
5. Connect the leads; then install and secure the han-
3. Disconnect the HI/LO beam harness from the dlebar pad.
switch.

6-4
 Testing Handlebar Testing Thumb
Warmer Elements Warmer Element
(EFI Models/Panther 570) (EFI Models/Panther 570)

„ NOTE: To access the element connectors, the „NOTE: During this test, resistance will vary due
handlebar control assembly for the side being to temperature; therefore this test should be made
tested must be removed. at room temperature of 20° C (68° F).

„ NOTE: During this test, resistance will vary due 1. Remove the handlebar pad (if applicable); then
to temperature; therefore, this test should be made disconnect the thumb warmer three-wire connec-
at room temperature of 20° C (68° F). tor.
2. In the element connector, connect one ohmmeter
1. Remove the handlebar pad (if applicable); then lead to the green/white lead; then connect the other
disconnect the handlebar warmer three-wire ohmmeter lead to the green lead.
connector.
3. The meter must read between 1.5 and 6.9 ohms.
2. In the element connector, connect one ohmmeter
lead to the green/white lead; then connect the other 4. In the element connector, connect one ohmmeter
ohmmeter lead to the green lead. lead to the green/blue lead; then connect the other
ohmmeter lead to the green lead.
3. The meter must read between 6.3-7.7 ohms.
5. The meter must read between 5.5 and 23.0 ohms.
4. In the element connector, connect the ohmmeter
between the green/blue and green lead wires. „NOTE: If either test is not within specification,
replace the thumb warmer element.
5. The meter must read between 12.6 and 15.4 ohms.
6. Replace any element measuring less than or more 6. Connect the leads; then install and secure the han-
than the specified amount. dlebar pad (if applicable).

„NOTE: Repeat test for the other element.

Testing Handlebar
7. Connect the leads; then install the handlebar con-
trol assembly and secure the handlebar pad (if
applicable).
Warmer Switch
(Bearcat 570/Panther 370/
6
Z 370/Z 570)

Testing Thumb 1. Remove the handlebar pad.

Warmer Element
(Bearcat 570/Panther 370/ 2. Disconnect the handlebar warmer two-wire con-
nector.
Z 370/Z 570)
3. In the switch connector, connect the ohmmeter
leads to each terminal.
„NOTE: During this test, resistance will vary due
to temperature; therefore, this test should be made 4. With the switch in the OFF position, the meter
at room temperature of 20° C (68° F). must read an open circuit. With the switch in the
ON position, the meter must read 1 ohm or less
1. Remove the handlebar pad; then disconnect the resistance.
thumb warmer two-wire connector.
5. Connect the leads; then install and secure the han-
2. In the element connector, connect one ohmmeter dlebar pad.
lead to the green/white lead; then connect the other
ohmmeter lead to the yellow lead.
3. The meter must read between 2.7 and 3.3 ohms.
„NOTE: If the test is not within specification,
replace the thumb warmer element.

4. Connect the leads; then install and secure the han-

dlebar pad.

6-5
 2. Secure with the four screws; then install the han-
Testing Handlebar dlebar pad.
Warmer/Thumb
Warmer Switch Testing Thumb
(EFI Models/Panther 570) Warmer Switch
(Bearcat 570/Panther 370/
REMOVING/TESTING Z 370/Z 570)

1. Remove the handlebar pad. 1. Remove the handlebar pad.

2. Remove the four screws securing the left-side han- 2. Disconnect the thumb warmer two-wire connector.
dlebar control assembly; then remove the control
assembly from the handlebar. 3. In the switch connector, connect one ohmmeter
lead to each terminal.
3. Disconnect the handlebar/thumb warmer harness
from the switch. 4. With the switch in the OFF position, the meter
must read an open circuit. With the switch in the
4. With the thumb warmer toggle in the low position, ON position, the meter must read 1 ohm or less
connect one ohmmeter lead to pin (C) and the resistance.
other ohmmeter lead to pin (B). The meter must
read 1 ohm or less resistance. 5. Connect the leads; then install and secure the han-
dlebar pad.

Testing Passenger
Handwarmer Switch

1. Disconnect the lead wires from the switch.

2. With the switch in the LO position, connect one
ohmmeter lead to the green/white wire at the con-
nector; then connect the other ohmmeter lead to
the brown wire at the connector. The meter must
CM110A
read less than 1 ohm of resistance.
5. With the thumb warmer toggle in the high posi- 3. With the switch in the MED position, connect one
tion, connect one ohmmeter lead to pin (C) and the ohmmeter lead to the green/red wire at the connec-
other ohmmeter lead to pin (A). The meter must tor; then connect the other ohmmeter lead to the
read 1 ohm or less resistance. brown wire at the connector. The meter must read
less than 1 ohm of resistance.
„NOTE: If either test does not read within specifi-
cation, replace the complete control assembly. 4. With the switch in the HI position, connect one
ohmmeter lead to the green/blue wire at the con-
6. With the handwarmer toggle in the low position, nector; then connect the other ohmmeter lead to
connect one ohmmeter lead to pin (C) and the the brown wire at the connector. The meter must
other ohmmeter lead to pin (D). The meter must read less than 1 ohm of resistance.
read 1 ohm or less resistance.
7. With the handwarmer toggle in the high position,
connect one ohmmeter lead to pin (C) and the
Testing Passenger
other ohmmeter lead to pin (E). The meter must Handwarmer Elements
read 1 ohm or less resistance.
„NOTE: If either test does not read within specifi- „NOTE: During this test, resistance will vary due
cation, replace the complete control assembly. to temperature; therefore, this test should be made
at room temperature of 20° C (68° F).
INSTALLING
1. Disconnect the lead wires from the main wiring
1. Connect the handlebar/thumb warmer harness to harness.
the switch; then place the control assembly on the
handlebar.

6-6
 2. For the LO position, connect one ohmmeter lead „NOTE: Voltage should appear when the tab (A) of
to the green/white wire from the element; then the brake disc jam nut is aligned with the sensor
connect the other ohmmeter lead to the green wire (B).
from the element. The meter must read between
23.8-32.2 ohms.
3. For the MED position, connect one ohmmeter lead
to the green/red wire from the element; then con-
nect the other ohmmeter lead to the green wire
from the element. The meter must read between
13.6-18.4 ohms.
4. For the HI position, connect one ohmmeter lead to
the green/blue wire from the element; then connect
the other ohmmeter lead to the green wire from the
element. The meter must read between 8.7-11.7
ohms.
ZJ210C

Testing
Speedometer Sensor Testing Reverse
(EFI Models) Alarm Switch
(Bearcat 570/Panther 370/570)
„NOTE: The following test should be made using
MaxiClips (p/n 0744-041) and the Fluke Model 73
„NOTE: The switch is in a bracket on the chain
Multimeter (p/n 0644-191) set to the DC Volt scale.
case.
„NOTE: Prior to testing the sensor, inspect the
three-wire connector on the sensor harness for 1. Disconnect the alarm switch two-wire connector.
contamination, broken pins, and/or corrosion. 2. Connect one ohmmeter lead to the yellow wire;
Note that there is a power supply of 10.8-13.2 DC then connect the other ohmmeter lead to the
volts at the main harness connector. orange wire.
3. With the lever in the reverse position, the meter
must read less than 1 ohm of resistance. With the 6
lever in the forward position, the meter must read
OL (open).
„NOTE: If the meter does not read as specified in
either test, the switch is defective and must be
replaced.

Testing Reverse
Alarm Switch
ZJ210B
(Crossfire/F-Series/M-Series)
1. Elevate the rear of the snowmobile onto a suitable
safety stand. „NOTE: The switch is located on the gear case
2. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position. above the left-side footrest.

3. At the sensor plug-in, connect the red maxiclip 1. Disconnect the alarm switch two-wire connector.
and meter lead to the red/blue lead; then connect
the black maxiclip and meter lead to the black 2. Remove the six torx-head cap screws securing the
lead. left-side footrest to the chassis and remove the
footrest; then un-thread the alarm switch from the
4. Connect a 12-volt DC power supply to the meter gear case.
leads; then rotate the driven pulley.
3. Connect one ohmmeter lead to the black wire; then
5. The meter must read 0 volts and 12 volts alter- connect the other ohmmeter lead to the violet/
nately. black wire.

6-7
 4. With the reverse button pressed in, the meter must
read less than 1 ohm of resistance. With the
reverse button released, the meter must read OL
Testing Shift Actuator
(open). (Crossfire/F-Series/M-Series)
„NOTE: If the meter does not read as specified in
„NOTE: The actuator is located on the gear case
either test, the switch is defective and must be
above the left-side footrest.
replaced.
1. Disconnect the actuator two-wire connector; then
connect Actuator Test Harness (p/n 0644-518)
Testing Shift onto the harness side of the connector.
Actuator Switch 2. Connect one meter lead to the violet/black lead of
(Crossfire/F-Series/M-Series) the test harness; then connect the other meter lead
to the black wire lead of the test harness.
„NOTE: The shift actuator switch is located on the 3. Secure the belt guard into position; then start the
right-side handlebar control. engine.
1. Disconnect the actuator two-wire connector from
the handlebar control. ! CAUTION
Do not run the engine without the belt guard secured
2. Connect one ohmmeter lead to the black wire; then in place.
connect the other ohmmeter lead to the white/vio-
let wire. 4. Press the reverse button; there should be a flash of
DC battery voltage indicated on the meter. Release
3. With the reverse button pressed in, the meter must the reverse button; then again press the reverse
read less than 1 ohm of resistance. With the button; there should be a flash of DC battery volt-
reverse button released, the meter must read OL age indicated on the meter.
(open).
„NOTE: If the meter indicates a flash of voltage
„NOTE: If the meter does not read as specified in
but the actuator does not function, the actuator is
either test, the switch is defective and must be
defective and must be replaced.
replaced.
„NOTE: If the meter does not indicate a flash of
voltage, troubleshoot the main harness.

6-8
 SECTION 7 — STEERING AND BODY

Console (Crossfire/M-Series)................................ 7-43

TABLE OF Console (Bearcat/Panther/Z)................................. 7-44
Console (F-Series) ................................................ 7-44
CONTENTS Belly Pan (Bearcat/Panther/Z)............................... 7-44
Belly Pan (Crossfire/M-Series) .............................. 7-51
Steering and Body .................................................. 7-2 Gas Tank/Seat Assembly
Steering Post (Bearcat/Panther/Z) .......................... 7-2 (Bearcat/Panther/Z)............................................ 7-53
Steering Post Gas Tank/Seat Assembly
(Crossfire/M-Series)............................................. 7-6 (Crossfire/M-Series)........................................... 7-53
Steering Post (F-Series).......................................... 7-8 Gas Tank/Seat Assembly (F-Series) ..................... 7-54
Ski ......................................................................... 7-11 Seat Cushion......................................................... 7-55
Ski Wear Bar ......................................................... 7-12 Taillight/Brakelight Assembly ................................. 7-56
Drag Link (Bearcat/Panther/Z) .............................. 7-13 Windshield
(Bearcat/Crossfire/M-Series/Panther/Z)............. 7-57
7
Drag Link (F-Series).............................................. 7-14
Front Tie Rods (Bearcat/Panther/Z) ...................... 7-16 Windshield (F-Series — Non-Adjustable) ............. 7-58
Front Tie Rods Windshield (F-Series — Adjustable) ..................... 7-58
(Crossfire/M-Series)........................................... 7-17 Backrest/Rack Assembly....................................... 7-58
Tie Rods (F-Series)............................................... 7-18 Tunnel/Rear Bumper/Snowflap
Spindle (Bearcat/Panther/Z).................................. 7-19 (Bearcat/Panther/Z)............................................ 7-59
Spindle (Crossfire/M-Series)................................. 7-20 Tunnel/Chassis/Rear Bumper/Snowflap
Spindle (F-Series) ................................................. 7-23 (Crossfire/M-Series)........................................... 7-59
Steering Tie Rod Tunnel/Chassis/Rear Bumper/Snowflap
(Bearcat/Panther/Z) ........................................... 7-25 (F-Series) ........................................................... 7-60
Steering Tie Rod Rear Storage Compartment (F-Series) ................. 7-61
(Crossfire/M-Series)........................................... 7-26 Air Silencer Assembly
Steering Tie Rod (F-Series) .................................. 7-27 (Crossfire/M-Series)........................................... 7-61
Ski Alignment ........................................................ 7-28 Headlight Assembly
Front Suspension Arms (Bearcat/Panther/Z)............................................ 7-61
(Bearcat/Panther/Z) ........................................... 7-30 Headlight Assembly (F-Series) ............................. 7-62
Front Suspension Arms Headlight Assembly (Crossfire/M-Series) ............. 7-63
(Crossfire/M-Series)........................................... 7-32 Adjusting Headlight Aim ....................................... 7-64
Front Suspension Arms (F-Series)........................ 7-36 Torque Specifications
Front Suspension (Ski) Shock Absorber ............... 7-38 (Bearcat/Panther/Z)............................................ 7-64
Sway Bar (Bearcat/Panther/Z) .............................. 7-38 Torque Specifications
Sway Bar (F-Series).............................................. 7-39 (Crossfire/M-Series/F-Series) ............................ 7-65
Front Suspension Mounting Bracket (F-Series) .... 7-39 Torque Specifications (General Bolts) ................... 7-66

7-1
 3. Remove the two cap screws and lock nuts securing
Steering and Body the lower steering post bracket to the front end
assembly. Account for the backing plate, two
washers, bearing caps, bearing halves, and wash-
This section has been organized into sub-sections for ers.
servicing steering and body components; however,
some components may vary from model to model. The
technician should use discretion and sound judgment
when removing and installing components.
„NOTE: Some illustrations and photographs
used in this section are used for clarity purposes
only and are not designed to depict actual condi-
tions.

„NOTE: Critical torque specifications are located

on pages 64-65 of this section.

Steering Post
AL145D
4. Tip the snowmobile upright. Remove the handle-
(Bearcat/Panther/Z) bar pad.

REMOVING

1. Tip the snowmobile on its side. Remove the

screws securing the skid plate.

AL136D
5. Remove the four lock nuts and cap screws secur-
ing the adjuster caps to the adjuster block; then
remove the caps. Place the handlebar assembly to
the side. Remove the adjuster block.
AL144D
2. Remove the cotter pin, cap screw, and lock nut
securing the tie rod to the steering post.

AL147D
6. Remove the Phillips-head screws securing the
console to the gas tank.
AL146D

7-2
 AL142D AL150D
7. Remove the two cap screws and lock nuts securing 10. Remove the cap screws securing the steering sup-
the steering post to the steering support. Account port to the footrest (both sides).
for the two washers, bearing caps, bearing halves,
washers, and backing plate.

AL151D
11. Remove the cap screws securing the oil reservoir
AL090 to the steering support. Account for the lock nut
8. Remove the sheet metal screws securing the recoil and a flat washer.
starter rope cup.

AL152D
AL149D 12. Remove the cap screws securing the air-intake
9. Remove the cap screws securing the recoil starter silencer to the steering support. Account for the
rope wire form. Account for the lock nut. washers, lock washers, and spacers.

7-3
 AL153D AL153D
13. Move the air-intake silencer forward. 3. Secure the oil reservoir to the steering support
with the washer and lock nut.

AL154D
14. Carefully slide the steering post out of the chassis. AL152D
Be careful not to hook any wires or hoses. 4. Secure the steering support to the footrest (both
sides) with the cap screws.
INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Inspect all welded areas for cracks or deteriora-

tion.
2. Inspect the steering post and steering-post brackets
for cracks, bends, or wear.
3. Inspect the bearing halves, bearing caps, and bear-
ing housings for cracks or wear.
AL151D
INSTALLING
5. Secure the recoil starter rope wire form with the
1. Carefully slide the steering post into position in cap screws and lock nut.
the chassis. Be careful not to hook any wires or
hoses.
2. Secure the air-intake silencer to the steering sup-
port with the washers, lock washers, spacers, and
cap screws.

7-4
 AL150D AL142D
6. Secure the recoil starter rope cup with the sheet 9. Place the adjuster block, handlebar assembly, and
metal screws. adjuster caps into position; then secure with four
cap screws and lock nuts. Tighten lock nuts evenly
to specifications.

AL149D
7. On the upper end of the steering post, apply a light
oil to the bearing halves and place into position AL147D
around the steering post; then place the bearing 10. Secure the handlebar pad.
cap between the steering support and the steering
post. Place the bearing housing into position and
secure with the backing plate, two cap screws,
washers, and lock nuts. Tighten to specifications.

AL136D
11. Tip the snowmobile on its side; then place the tie
rod into position. Secure with a cap screw (coated
with green Loctite #609) and lock nut. Tighten to
AL090 specifications. Install the cotter pin and spread the
8. Secure the console with the Phillips-head screws. pin.

7-5
 Steering Post
(Crossfire/M-Series)

REMOVING

1. Using a piece of cardboard to protect the hood and

belly pan, tip the snowmobile on its PTO-side.
2. From beneath the front end, remove the lock nut
and washer securing the steering post to the steer-
ing post stop.
AL146D
12. On the lower end of the steering post, apply a light
oil to the bearing halves and place into position
around the steering post; then place the bearing
cap and bearing housing into position. Install the
backing plate and secure with two cap screws,
washers, and lock nuts. Tighten to specifications.

FC199
3. Tip the snowmobile upright. Remove the handle-
bar pad.
4. Remove the cable ties securing the wiring and
brakeline hose to the steering post.

AL145D
„NOTE: Remove the routing clips securing the
brake hose and wiring to the steering support.
13. Install the skid plate. Secure with screws.
5. Remove four lock nuts and cap screws securing
the handlebar to the adjuster block.

AL144D

„NOTE: Turn the handlebar to the full-left and

full-right to ensure free movement. CM001
6. Remove the ignition switch and the 11 torx-head
cap screws and four lock nuts securing the console
to the gas tank; then lay the console aside.
7. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
steering tie rod to the steering post.
„NOTE: The expansion chamber must be
removed for this procedure.

7-6
 CM002A CM005
8. Remove the two lock nuts from the steering post 10. Remove the steering post. Account for all mount-
mounting block. ing hardware.

! CAUTION
Care must be taken not to hook any wires or hoses
when removing the steering post.

INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Inspect all welded areas for cracks or deteriora-

tion.
CM003A
9. Remove the two lower cap screws securing the 2. Inspect the steering post and steering-post retain-
steering support to the chassis. ing plate for cracks, bends, or wear.
3. Inspect the adjuster caps and mounting block for
cracks or wear.
INSTALLING

1. Carefully slide the steering post into position in

the chassis. Be careful not to hook any wires or
7
hoses.
2. After the steering post is in position on the chassis,
install the steering support and mounting blocks to
the gas tank with two lock nuts taking care not to
pinch any wiring.
CM004B

„NOTE: Removing only the two lower cap screws

will allow the steering support to be moved for-
ward so the mounting block and steering post can
be removed.

CM005
3. Install the two lower cap screws to the steering
support. Tighten to specifications.

7-7
„NOTE: If for any reason the upper cap screw
and lock nut are removed from the right-side of the Steering Post
steering support, make sure to install the ground (F-Series)
wire to the cap screw.

4. Place the steering tie rod into position on the steer- REMOVING
ing post. Secure with the cap screw (threads
coated with green Loctite #609) and lock nut. 1. Open the hood; then remove the two torx-head
Tighten the lock nut to specifications. screws securing the console to the headlight
support bracket.

FC205
5. Secure the console to the gas tank with the 11 torx- 741-722A
head cap screws and four lock nuts. Tighten
securely; then install the ignition switch. 2. Lift the rearward end of the console and discon-
nect the main/hood harness connector; then
6. Secure the adjuster block to the steering post with remove the console.
four cap screws and lock nuts. Tighten to specifi-
cations. 3. On the standard model, remove the four lower
Allen-head cap screws securing the handlebar/
7. Secure the wiring and brake hose to the steering riser assembly to the steering post; then lay the
support with the routing clips. handlebar/riser assembly aside. Account for the
8. Using a piece of cardboard to protect the hood and
lower adjuster caps.
belly pan, tip the snowmobile on its PTO-side.
4. On the LXR/Sno Pro, remove the two screws
9. From beneath the front end, secure the steering from the handlebar pad; then remove the self-
post to the steering post stop with the washer and tapping screw securing the retainer to the riser
lock nut (threads coated with green Loctite #609). block assembly. Remove the retainer.
Tighten the lock nut to specifications.

ZJ154A
FC199 5. On the LXR/Sno Pro, unlock the cam lever and
unthread the lever from the lock rod (A); then
remove the lock rod and account for the two bot-
tom cap springs (B).

7-8
 ZJ155A ZJ156A

9. Remove the lock nut and washer securing the

! CAUTION steering post to the chassis; then carefully guide
Do not rotate the handlebar to a position that the steering post out of the chassis.
allows air to enter the brake system.

6. Remove the four cap screws securing the upper

bearing bracket to the upper support plate.

ZJ157A

„ NOTE: For installing purposes, note the number

of washers between the steering post and the
chassis.
FS182A

7. Remove the springs securing the expansion

chamber; then remove the expansion chamber
from the engine compartment. Account for the
rubber exhaust bumper.
7

ZJ156B

INSPECTING

„ NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

FS203A
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
8. Remove the lock nut securing the steering tie necessary.
rod to the steering post.
1. Inspect all welded areas for cracks or deteriora-
tion.
2. Inspect the steering post and steering-post
brackets for cracks, bends, or wear.

7-9
3. Inspect the bearing halves, bearing caps, and
bearing housings for cracks or wear.
INSTALLING

1. Carefully install the steering post into the chas-

sis; then with the number of washers installed on
the stud of the post as noted during removing,
secure the steering post to the chassis with the
lock nut (threads coated with green Loctite
#609). Tighten to specifications.

FS200A

4. Place the rubber exhaust bumper into position

on the air silencer.

ZJ157A

2. Install the steering tie rod to the steering post

and secure with the lock nut. Tighten to specifi-
cations.
3. Secure the bearing bracket/steering post assem- FS203A

bly to the upper support plate with the bracket 5. Place gaskets on the resonator and exhaust man-
plates and cap screws (coated with blue Loctite ifold; then install the expansion chamber. Secure
#243). Tighten the cap screws to 1.1 kg-m (8 ft- the chamber to manifold and upper frame with
lb). the springs.
6. On the standard model, place the handlebar/riser
assembly onto the steering post; then secure to
the steering post with the lower adjuster cap and
four Allen-head cap screws. Tighten cap screws
to specifications.
„NOTE: Steps 7-11 are for the LXR/Sno Pro
models.

7. Install the handlebar riser block assembly to the

steering post; then secure the assembly with the
retainer and set screw.
FS182A

„NOTE: When installing the bracket plates, the

wider end of the plate must be directed up.

ZJ154A

7-10
 8. With the lock rod in position to the two bottom
caps and the cap springs in place, thread the cam ! WARNING
lever into the lock rod far enough to hold the han-
dlebar in position. Care must be taken to securely lock the handlebar
cam lever to prevent unexpected “movement” of the
9. Depress the lock pin, lift up on the cam lever, and handlebar during operation over rough terrain. DO
swing the handlebar up and rotate to the desired NOT offset the handlebar so steering (maximum
position; then press down on the cam lever until right/left turning capabilities) are altered or throttle
the lock pin is properly positioned. Check steering and brake controls will be affected.
for maximum right/left turning capabilities.
12. Secure the console to the steering support with the
torx-head screws and tighten the screws securely;
then close the left-side and right-side access panels
and close the hood.

0741-427

! CAUTION
741-722A
Do not rotate the handlebar to position that allows
air to enter the brake system.
Ski
10. Test the handlebar to ensure that it does not rotate
within the riser block. If it does rotate, release the
cam lever and rotate the cam lever clockwise; then REMOVING
press down on the cam lever until the lock pin is
properly positioned and locked. Repeat this proce- 1. Place the front of the snowmobile on a support
dure until the handlebar is properly secured. stand.
11. After the handlebar is “locked” in position, release
the cam lever and rotate it one turn clockwise; then
2. Remove the cotter pin; then remove the slotted nut
and cap screw securing the ski assembly to the 7
press down on the cam lever until it “locks” in spindle. Remove the ski. Account for the rubber
place. damper and washers.
„NOTE: At this point, gently lift the cam lever with-
out pressing in on the lock pin. If the cam lever
cannot be lifted, the lock pin is secure.

! CAUTION
If at any time the lock pin will not engage into the
locked position, do NOT operate the snowmobile.

AL095D

7-11
INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Inspect the ski for cracks or deterioration.

2. Inspect the ski for abnormal bends or cracks.
3. Inspect the wear bar for wear.
4. Inspect all hardware and the spindle bushings for
wear and damage.
0741-918
5. Inspect the rubber damper for damage or wear.
INSTALLING

1. Position the ski over the saddle.

2. Apply a low-temperature grease to the non-
threaded portion of the cap screw; then slide the
cap screw (with washer as required) through the
ski and saddle accounting for the rubber damper.
„NOTE: Install the cap screw so the lock nut will
be located to the inside of the ski.

3. Apply red Loctite #271 to the threads of the cap 0741-917

screw; then tighten the lock nut (with washer as

required) to specifications.
4. Place the cotter pin into the ski cap screw and
spread the pin.

Ski Wear Bar

The ski wear bar is a replaceable bar attached to the

underside of the ski. The purpose of the wear bar is to
assist in turning the snowmobile, to minimize ski wear,
and to maintain good steering control. If the snowmo- 0741-919
bile is operated primarily in deep snow, ski wear bar 4. Pry the rear of the wear bar down until the wear
wear will be minimal; however, if the snowmobile is bar studs are clear of the ski; then slide the wear
operated on terrain where the snow cover is minimal, bar rearward until the front of the wear bar is free
the ski wear bar will wear faster. Arctic Cat recom- from the ski.
mends that the ski wear bars be checked once a week
and replaced if worn to 1/2 of original diameter. 5. Remove the wear bar.
REMOVING INSTALLING
1. Remove ice and snow buildup from the ski. 1. Place spacers (if applicable) on the wear bar studs;
then insert the front of the wear bar into the hole at
2. With the gas tank nearly empty (less than 1/4 full), the front of the ski and swing the wear bar upward.
lay the snowmobile on its side.
! WARNING
! CAUTION
DO NOT bend the ski wear bar excessively when
A piece of cardboard should be used to protect the installing. Excessive bending of the ski wear bar
finish on the belly pan. may cause premature wear, breakage, and possible
injury.
3. Remove the lock nuts and washers securing the
wear bar to the ski. Account for any spacers. 2. Insert the wear bar studs into the holes in the ski.

7-12
 3. Center the wear bar studs in the holes and install
the washers and lock nuts.
4. Tighten lock nuts securely.

Drag Link
(Bearcat/Panther/Z)

REMOVING

1. Remove the expansion chamber if necessary.

AL092
2. Remove the lock nuts securing the tie rods to the
spindles on both sides of the snowmobile. Account 5. Move the drag link from side to side to gain access
for O-rings and washers. to the lock nuts and cap screws securing the steer-
ing arms to the drag link; then remove the cap
„NOTE: Note whether the tie rod is installed on screws and lock nuts. Account for washers and
the top side or on the bottom side of the spindle drag link bearing axles.
arm for installing purposes. 6. From the opposite side from which the boot was
removed, carefully pull the steering boot over the
tie rod end; then remove the drag link.
„NOTE: Applying soapy water to the steering
boot will aid in pulling the boot over the tie rod
end.

7. Place the drag link in a vise and remove the tie rod
ends from the drag link.
INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
AL108 necessary.

1. Inspect the entire drag link (especially in the areas

where the ball joints attach) for any signs of
cracks, wear, or damage. 7
2. Inspect the bearings, inserts, and axles for wear or
damage.
INSTALLING

1. Place the drag link in a vise; then secure the tie rod
to the drag link with cap screws, washers, and lock
nuts (threads coated with green Loctite #609).
AL655D
Tighten to specifications.
3. On the side from which the drag link will be 2. Slide the drag link in from the side of the snowmo-
removed, remove the self-tapping screws securing bile from which the steering boot was removed;
the steering boot to the front end. then carefully slide the boot over the tie rod end.
4. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the „NOTE: Applying soapy water to the steering
steering tie rod to the steering arm. Account for boot will aid in sliding the boot over the tie rod
washers. end.

3. Secure the drag link to the steering and idler arms

with cap screws (coated with green Loctite #609),
washers, bearing axles, and lock nuts. Tighten to
specifications.

7-13
 8. Check and adjust ski alignment (see appropriate
Ski Alignment in this section).

Drag Link
(F-Series)

REMOVING

„NOTE: To remove the drag link, it will be neces-

sary to remove the air silencer. Proceed to Air-
Intake Silencer (F-Series) sub-section in Section 4
AL092 and follow the REMOVING procedure.
4. Secure the steering tie rod to the steering arm with
a cap screw (coated with green Loctite #609), 1. Remove the cap screw and lock nut (A) from the
washer, and a lock nut. Tighten to specifications. drag link end of the spindle tie rod; then remove
the cap screw and lock nut (B) securing the left-
5. Place the steering boot into position on the front side spindle tie rod and steering tie rod to the
end (bulk head). Secure with self-tapping screws. drag link.
6. Install the tie rods (threaded area coated with
green Loctite #609) on the spindle arms as noted
during removing. Secure with O-rings, washers,
and lock nuts. Tighten to specifications.

0741-924

„ NOTE: To aid in removing the tie rod cap screws

AL108 from the drag link, position the drag link so the cap
screw is aligned with the opening between the skid
plate and the suspension mounting bracket.

AL655D

„NOTE: Check all drag link and ball joint fasten-

ers to ensure they are tight. Turn the handlebars ZJ159A
full-left and full-right several times to ensure free
movement.
2. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts (C) from
the steering arms (D); then remove the drag link
7. Install and secure the expansion chamber (if and steering arms from the suspension mounting
removed). bracket.

7-14
3. Secure the drag link in a suitable vise; then
remove the cap screws and lock nuts (E) secur-
ing the steering arms to the drag link. Remove
the arms and account for the axles (F) inside the
steering arms.
„ NOTE: With the steering arms removed, note
the direction of the steering arms for installing
purposes.

ZJ163A

2. Secure the steering arms to the drag link with

the drag link axles, cap screws (E) (threads
coated with blue Loctite #243), and lock nuts
(E). Tighten to specifications.

ZJ161A

4. If replacing using a suitable punch, drive the

two bearings out of the drag link.

ZJ164

7
ZJ162

INSPECTING

„ NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary. 0741-924

3. Place the steering arms/drag link assembly into

1. Inspect the entire drag link (especially in the position in the chassis; then secure the arms (D)
areas where the ball joints attach) for any signs with axles (F) to the chassis with cap screws and
of cracks, wear, or damage. lock nuts (C). Tighten the lock nuts to specifica-
tions.
2. Inspect the bearings and axles for wear or dam-
age. 4. Install the left-side spindle tie rod and steering
tie rod to the drag link with cap screws and lock
INSTALLING nuts (B); then install the remaining tie rod to the
drag link with cap screws and lock nuts (A).
1. If the bearings were removed, place the drag Tighten to specifications.
link in a suitable vise and press the bearings into
the drag link. 5. Using a quality low-temperature grease, grease
the steering arms; then verify free movement of
the steering components.

7-15
 CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Inspect the ball joints and tie rods for damaged

threads or wear.
2. Inspect the ball joints and tie rods for cracks or
unusual bends.
3. Wash the ball joints in parts-cleaning solvent. Dry
ZJ165A
with compressed air. Inspect the ball joint pivot
area for wear. Apply a low-temperature grease to
„NOTE: To finalize the installing of the drag link, the ball joints.
proceed to Air-Intake Silencer (F-Series) sub-sec-
tion in Section 4 and follow the INSTALLING proce- ! WARNING
dure.
Always wear safety glasses when using compressed
air.

Front Tie Rods ASSEMBLING AND INSTALLING

(Bearcat/Panther/Z)
1. Slide the tie rod through the steering boot and
retainer; then install the jam nuts on the ball joints
REMOVING AND DISASSEMBLING and thread the ball joints onto the tie rod.
1. Remove the lock nut securing the tie rod to the „NOTE: Each jam nut and ball joint is either a
spindle. Account for a washer and O-ring. right-hand or left-hand thread; therefore, each can
only be installed on one end of the tie rod. The
„NOTE: Note that the tie rod is installed on the right-hand thread is the inside ball joint and jam
bottom side of the spindle arm for installing pur- nut.
poses.
2. Secure the tie rod to the ball joint on the forked
end of the drag link with a cap screw, washers, and
lock nut. Tighten to specifications.
3. Secure the steering arm to the drag link with a cap
screw, lock nut, and washers. Tighten to specifica-
tions.
4. Position an O-ring and washer on the ball joint
assembly (threads coated with green Loctite
#609). Install the ball joint on the spindle arm as
noted in removing; then secure with a lock nut.
Tighten to specifications.

AL655D
2. Remove the self-tapping screws or rivets securing
the steering boot and retainer to the front end.
3. Turn the handlebar in the appropriate direction;
then remove the cap screw and lock nut securing
the steering arm to the drag link. Account for
washers.
4. Loosen the jam nut securing each ball joint to the
tie rod; then remove the ball joints from the tie
rod. Slide the rod from the steering boot. Remove
the jam nuts from the ball joints.
AL655D
5. Place the steering boot and retainer into position
and secure with self-tapping screws or rivets.

7-16
 6. Adjust ski alignment (see appropriate Ski Align- 4. From the left-side, remove the Allen-head cap
ment in this section). screw (B) securing the two tie rod ends to the
lower arm of the idler shaft.
7. Apply blue Loctite #243 to the jam nut threaded
area and tighten the jam nuts against the tie rod to
specifications.

! WARNING
Neglecting to lock the jam nuts against the tie rod
may cause loss of snowmobile control and possible
personal injury.

Front Tie Rods

(Crossfire/M-Series) FC207B
5. Remove the Allen-head cap screw securing the tie
REMOVING rod end to the left-side steering arm.

1. Remove the lock nut securing the steering tie rod

to the upper arm of the steering shaft. Account for
the washer.
„NOTE: Note that the tie rod is installed on the
top side of the upper arm for installing purposes.

FC209

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.
7
FC206
2. From the right-side, remove the Allen-head cap 1. Inspect the ball joints and tie rods for damaged
screw (A) securing the two tie rod ends to the threads or wear.
lower arm of the steering shaft.
2. Inspect the ball joints and tie rods for cracks or
unusual bends.
3. Wash the ball joints in parts-cleaning solvent. Dry
with compressed air. Inspect the ball joint pivot
area for wear. Apply a low-temperature grease to
the ball joints.

! WARNING
Always wear safety glasses when using compressed
air.

FC207A
3. Remove the Allen-head cap screw securing the tie
rod to the right-side spindle arm.

7-17
INSTALLING 5. Place the steering tie rod into position on the upper
arm of the steering shaft. Secure with the washer
1. Place the two tie rod ends into position on the and lock nut (threads coated with green Loctite
lower arm of the idler shaft. Secure with the Allen- #609). Tighten lock nut to specifications.
head cap screw (B) coated with green Loctite
#609. Tighten to specifications.

FC206

FC207B
2. Place the tie rod into position on the left-side steer- Tie Rods
ing arm. Secure with the Allen-head cap screw (F-Series)
coated with green Loctite #609. Tighten to specifi-
cations.
REMOVING AND DISASSEMBLING

1. Remove the lock nut securing the tie rod to the

spindle.
„NOTE: Note whether the tie rod is installed on the
top side or on the bottom side of the spindle arm
for installing purposes.

2. Turn the handlebar in the appropriate direction and

remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the tie
rod to the drag link.
„NOTE: To aid in removing the tie rod cap screw
from the drag link, position the drag link so the cap
FC209
screw is aligned with the opening between the skid
3. Place the two tie rod ends into position on the plate and the suspension mounting bracket.
lower arm of the steering shaft. Secure with the
Allen-head cap screw (A) coated with green Loc-
tite #609. Tighten to specifications.

ZJ159A
3. Loosen the jam nuts securing the ball joints to the
FC207A tie rod; then remove the ball joints from the tie
4. Place the tie rod into position on the right-side rod.
spindle arm. Secure with the Allen-head cap screw
coated with green Loctite #609. Tighten to specifi-
cations.

7-18
CLEANING AND INSPECTING 3. Remove the lock nut and cap screw securing the
shock absorber to the spindle. Account for all
„ NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively, mounting hardware.
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Inspect the ball joints and tie rods for damaged

threads or wear.
2. Inspect the ball joints and tie rods for cracks or
unusual bends.
3. Wash the ball joint in parts-cleaning solvent.
Dry with compressed air. Inspect the ball joint
pivot area for wear. Apply a low-temperature
grease to the ball joint.
AL156D
! WARNING 4. Remove the lock nut securing the tie-rod ball joint
Always wear safety glasses when using compressed to the spindle (account for the washer and the O-
air.
ring); then remove the ball joint from the spindle.
„NOTE: Note that the tie rod is installed on the
ASSEMBLING AND INSTALLING bottom side of the spindle arm for installing pur-
poses.
1. Install the jam nuts onto the ball joints; then
thread the ball joints into the tie rod.
2. Secure the steering tie rod and the left-side spin-
dle tie rod to the drag link with the cap screw
and lock nut; then secure the spindle tie rod to
the spindle. Tighten the cap screws and lock
nuts to specifications.
3. Secure the right-side spindle tie rod to the drag
link and spindle with the cap screws and lock
nuts; then tighten to specifications.
4. Adjust ski alignment (see appropriate Ski Align-
ment in this section). AL655D
5. Remove the two cap screws and lock nuts securing
7
5. Tighten the jam nuts against the tie rod to speci- the spindle to the suspension arms. Account for all
fications. mounting hardware.

! WARNING
Neglecting to lock the jam nuts against the tie rod
may cause loss of snowmobile control and possible
personal injury.

Spindle
(Bearcat/Panther/Z)

REMOVING
AL159D
1. Position the front of the snowmobile up on a safety
stand.
2. Remove the ski.

7-19
 AL160D AL655D
6. Inspect the tie-rod ball joint in place. If damage, 3. Install the ski.
wear, or unusual bends are noted, loosen the jam
nut; then remove the ball joint from the tie rod. 4. Align the lower shock eyelet with the mounting
hole in the spindle; then secure with the cap screw,
INSPECTING optional washers, and lock nut. Tighten to specifi-
cations.
„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is 5. Remove the safety stand from beneath the front
necessary.
end.

1. Inspect the spindle for excessive wear, cracks,

bends, or imperfections. Spindle
(Crossfire/M-Series)
2. Inspect all welds for cracking.
3. Inspect the suspension arm bushings and axle area REMOVING
for wear.
1. Position the front of the snowmobile up on a safety
4. Secure the spindle in a vise. Rotate the spindle stand.
clockwise and counterclockwise. The movement
should be smooth and free. If the spindle move- 2. Remove the ski.
ment is rough or binding, grease the spindle with a
good low-temperature grease. Rotate the spindle. 3. Remove the lock nut and cap screw securing the
If the movement remains rough, replace the spin- shock absorber to the spindle. Account for all
dle. mounting hardware.
„NOTE: When greasing the spindle, use enough
grease so that it can be seen coming out at both
the top and bottom of the spindle.

5. Inspect the spindle axle and bearings for wear,

damage, or loose fit. Replace the bearings as a set.
„NOTE: Replacing the ski bolt bushings is diffi-
cult. The existing bushings will be damaged during
removal. Be careful, however, not to damage the
spindle when removing the bearing. Press the new
bushings into the spindle.

INSTALLING FC208
4. Remove the Allen-head cap screw securing the tie
1. Place the upper and lower suspension arm ends rod to the spindle arm.
with bushings in position into the spindle. Secure
with cap screws (threads coated with green Loctite
#609) and lock nuts. Tighten to specifications.
2. Place the steering tie-rod ball joint into position
(threads coated with green Loctite #609) on the
spindle arm as noted during removing (with
washer and O-ring) and secure with a lock nut.
Tighten to specifications.

7-20
 FC209 FC212
5. Remove the snap ring securing the steering arm to 8. Remove the two cap screws and lock nuts securing
the spindle. the spindle to the arms. Account for all mounting
hardware.
! CAUTION
Care must be taken to not over-extend the snap ring.
If the snap ring is over-extended, it must be
replaced.

FC213

FC210
6. Remove the Allen-head cap screw securing the
steering arm to the spindle.
7

FC214
9. Remove the spindle.
INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.
FC211
7. Remove the cap from the spindle; then using a 1. Inspect the spindle for excessive wear, cracks,
plastic mallet, tap the spindle shaft out the bottom bends, or imperfections.
of the spindle. Account for the two washers from
between the steering arm and the spindle. 2. Inspect all welds for cracking.
3. Inspect the suspension arm bushings and axle area
for wear.

7-21
 4. Secure the spindle in a vise. Rotate the spindle 4. Install the cap onto the spindle; then place the
clockwise and counterclockwise. The movement steering arm tie rod into position on the spindle.
should be smooth and free. If the spindle move- Secure with the Allen-head cap screw coated with
ment is rough or binding, grease the spindle with a green Loctite #609. Tighten to specifications.
good low-temperature grease. Rotate the spindle.
If the movement remains rough, replace the spin-
dle.
„NOTE: When greasing the spindle, use enough
grease so that it can be seen coming out at both
the top and bottom of the spindle.

5. Inspect the spindle axle and bearings for wear,

damage, or loose fit. Replace the bearings as a set.
„NOTE: Replacing the ski bolt bushings is diffi-
cult. The existing bushings will be damaged during
removal. Be careful, however, not to damage the
spindle when removing the bearing. Press the new FC211
bushings into the spindle. 5. Install the snap ring noting the correct direction of
the snap ring.
INSTALLING
„NOTE: The sharp side of the snap ring should
1. Insert the spindle shaft into the spindle making be directed away from the spindle arm.
sure the two washers are correctly positioned.
2. Place the upper and lower suspension arm ends
with bushings in position into the spindle. Secure
with cap screws (threads coated with green Loctite
#609) and lock nuts. Tighten the lower lock nut to
specifications.

FC210
6. Place the tie rod into position on the spindle arm.
Secure with the Allen-head cap screw coated with
green Loctite #609. Tighten to specifications.

FC214
3. Tighten the upper lock nut to specifications.

FC209
7. Place the shock absorber into position on the spin-
dle. Secure with the cap screw and lock nut.
Tighten to specifications.
FC213
8. Install the ski.

7-22
 9. Remove the safety stand from beneath the front 6. Remove the lock nut and cap screw securing the
end. shock absorber to the spindle. Account for all
mounting hardware.

Spindle
(F-Series)

REMOVING

1. Position the front of the snowmobile up on a

safety stand.
2. Remove the ski.
3. Remove the tie rod cap and lock nut securing the
tie-rod ball joint to the spindle; then remove the
ball joint from the spindle. ZJ173A

7. Remove the four torx-head cap screws securing

„ NOTE: Note whether the tie rod is installed on the lower A-arm bearing cap to the spindle; then
the top side or on the bottom side of the spindle remove the cap and lower arm from the spindle.
arm for installing purposes.

4. Remove the cap and snap ring from the top of

the spindle; then remove the cap screw securing
the spindle arm to the spindle. Remove the spin-
dle arm and account for and note the number of
thrust washers for installing purposes.

ZJ174A

8. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the

spindle to the upper suspension arm. Account
for all mounting hardware.
7
INSPECTING
ZJ172 „ NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Inspect the spindle for excessive wear, cracks,

bends, or imperfections.
2. Inspect all welds for cracking.
3. Inspect the suspension arm bushings and axle
area for wear.
4. Secure the spindle in a vise. Rotate the spindle
clockwise and counterclockwise. The move-
ZJ177
ment should be smooth and free. If the spindle
„ NOTE: The cap screw must be removed to movement is rough or binding, grease the spin-
remove the spindle from the spindle housing. dle with a good low-temperature grease. Rotate
the spindle. If the movement remains rough,
5. Using a soft hammer and a suitable driving tool, replace the spindle.
drive the spindle out of the spindle housing.

7-23
„ NOTE: When greasing the spindle, use enough
grease so it can be seen coming out at both the
top and bottom of the spindle.

5. Inspect the spindle axle and bearings for wear,

damage, or loose fit. Replace the bearings as a
set.
6. Inspect the tie-rod ball joint in place. If damage,
wear, or unusual bends are noted, loosen the jam
nut; then remove the ball joint from the tie rod.
„ NOTE: Replacing the ski bolt bushings is diffi-
cult. The existing bushings will be damaged during ZJ174A

removal. Be careful, however, not to damage the 4. With the shock sleeve in place, align the lower
spindle when removing the bushing. Press the shock eyelet with the mounting hole in the spin-
new bushings into the spindle. dle; then secure with the cap screw, optional
washers, and lock nut. Tighten to specifications.
INSTALLING

1. Place the upper arm end (with axle) into position

in the spindle. Secure with cap screw and lock
nut. Tighten only until snug.
2. Install new split bearings onto the shaft of the
lower A-arm; then using a suitable pliers, evenly
compress the bearing until it is properly fitted to
the shaft.

ZJ173A

5. At this point, tighten the lock nut (from step 1)

to specifications.

ZJ175A

„ NOTE: The split bearings cannot be reused;

they must be replaced with new ones.

3. Position the spindle into the lower A-arm; then

install the bearing cap and secure the cap to the
spindle with the four torx-head cap screws. ZJ173B
Tighten to specifications. 6. Install the spindle into the spindle housing; then
with the correct number of thrust washers (as
noted in removing and with the space (A) in the
splines of the spindle aligned with the slot (B) in
the spindle arm, install the spindle arm.

7-24
 9. Place the steering tie-rod ball joint into position
(threads coated with Loctite #609) on the spin-
dle arm as noted during removing and secure
with a lock nut. Tighten to specifications; then
install the tie rod cap.
10. Install the ski.
11. Remove the safety stand from beneath the front
end.

ZJ177
Steering Tie Rod
(Bearcat/Panther/Z)

REMOVING

1. Remove the screws securing the skid plate; then

remove the skid plate.
„NOTE: The front machine screw on some mod-
els is secured with a washer and lock nut.

ZJ295A

7. Install the cap screw securing the spindle arm to

the spindle; then tighten to specifications.

AL144D
2. Remove the cotter pins, cap screws, and slotted
nuts securing the steering tie rod to the steering 7
post and steering arm; then remove the tie-rod
assembly.

ZJ176A

8. Install the snap ring and spindle cap.

AL089
3. Loosen the jam nuts securing the ball joints to the
steering tie rod; then remove the ball joints.

ZJ172

7-25
INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Inspect the ball joints for damaged threads or

wear.
2. Inspect the tie rod for damage, unusual bends, or
wear.
INSTALLING
AL144D
1. Position the handlebar in the straight-ahead posi-
tion; then position the skis straight ahead.
2. Thread the jam nuts onto the ball joints; then
Steering Tie Rod
equally thread the ball joints onto the steering tie (Crossfire/M-Series)
rod.
„NOTE: There must be an approximate equal REMOVING
number of threads exposed on each ball joint.
1. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
3. Place the tie-rod assembly into position; then steering tie rod to the steering post.
rotate the steering tie rod until the holes in the ball
joints align with the holes in the steering post and
steering arm.
4. Ensure correct handlebar/ski alignment (adjust
steering tie rod as necessary); then apply blue Loc-
tite #243 to the jam nut threaded area and tighten
to specifications.
5. Secure the tie-rod assembly with the two cap
screws (coated with green Loctite #609), washers,
and slotted nuts. Tighten to specifications; then
install the cotter pins and spread the cotter pins.

FC202
2. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
steering tie rod to the upper arm of the steering
shaft. Account for the washer.

AL089

! WARNING
Neglecting to lock the jam nuts against the tie rod
may cause loss of snowmobile control and possible
personal injury. FC206

6. Install the skid plate; then secure with screws.

„NOTE: The front machine screw on some mod-
els is secured with a washer and lock nut.

7-26
INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

Steering Tie Rod
(F-Series)
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.
REMOVING
1. Inspect the ball joints for damaged threads or
wear. 1. Remove the springs securing the expansion
2. Inspect the tie rod for damage, unusual bends, or chamber; then remove the expansion chamber
wear. from the engine compartment. Account for the
two gaskets and the rubber exhaust bumper.
INSTALLING

„NOTE: There must be an approximate equal

number of threads exposed on each ball joint.

1. Place the steering tie rod into position on the

upper arm of the steering shaft. Secure with the
cap screw (coated with green Loctite #609),
washer, and lock nut. Tighten the lock nut to
specifications.

FS203A

2. Remove the lock nut securing the steering tie

rod to the steering post; then remove the cap
screw and lock nut securing the left-side spindle
tie rod and steering tie rod to the drag link.

FC206
2. Place the steering tie rod into position on the steer-
ing post. Secure with the cap screw coated with
green Loctite #609 and lock nut. Tighten lock nut
to specifications.
7

FS260A

INSPECTING

„ NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Inspect the ball joints for damaged threads or

FC205 wear.
2. Inspect the tie rod for damage, unusual bends, or
wear.

7-27
INSTALLING
Ski Alignment
1. Thread the jam nuts onto the ball joints; then
equally thread the ball joints onto the steering tie
rod. CHECKING
„ NOTE: There must be an approximate equal Toe-Out Range
number of threads exposed on each ball joint.
1.6-6.4 mm (1/16-1/4 in.)

2. Place the tie-rod assembly into position; then

„NOTE: Track tension and alignment must be
rotate the steering tie rod until the holes in the
ball joints align with the holes in the steering properly adjusted prior to checking or adjusting
post and the drag link. ski alignment. Ski alignment must be performed on
a flat, level surface. Ski toe-out must fall within the
3. Secure the steering tie rod to the steering post range of 1.6- 6.4 mm (1/16-1/4 in.).
with the lock nut and tighten to specifications;
then secure the steering tie rod and left-side 1. Raise the front end of snowmobile just high
spindle tie rod to the drag link with the cap enough to keep the skis from contacting the floor.
screw and lock nut. Tighten to specifications. 2. Turn the handlebar to the straight-ahead position.
Visually inspect the handlebar for being centered
4. Ensure correct handlebar/ski alignment (adjust and in the straight-ahead position.
steering tie rod as necessary); then tighten the
jam nut to specifications. „NOTE: At this point on Bearcat/Panther/Z mod-
els, the hole in the middle of the drag link should
! WARNING be aligned with the notch (half moon shaped) in
the chassis.
Neglecting to lock the tie rod by tightening the jam
nuts may cause loss of snowmobile control and pos-
sible personal injury.

5. Place the rubber exhaust bumper into position on

the air silencer.

0734-407

„NOTE: On Bearcat/Panther/Z models if the han-

dlebar is not in the straight-ahead position when
the hole in the middle of the drag link aligns with
the notch in the chassis, the steering tie rod must
FS203A
be adjusted. When handlebar alignment is correct,
6. Place gaskets on the resonator and exhaust mani- apply blue Loctite #243 to the jam nut threaded
fold; then install the expansion chamber. Secure area and tighten both jam nuts securely against
the chamber to manifold and upper frame with the the steering tie rod.
springs.
3. With the handlebar in the straight-ahead position,
secure the handlebar to prevent the alignment from
becoming disturbed during the remainder of the
alignment procedure.
„NOTE: Track tension and alignment must be
properly adjusted prior to placing the straightedge
against the outside edge of the track.

4. Place a long straightedge against the outside edge

of the track so it lies near the inside edge of the
left-side ski.

7-28
 7. Measure the distance from the straightedge to the
right-side ski wear bar bolts in two places: 18-20
cm (7-8 in.) in front of the spindle and 18-20 cm
(7-8 in.) behind the spindle. Record the measure-
ments taken for the right side.

! WARNING
The measurement from the front and rear wear bar
bolts to the straightedge can be equal (ski parallel to
the track), but the front measurement must never be
less (ski toed-in) or poor handling will be experi-
enced. The front wear bar bolt measurement to the
729-887B straightedge must not exceed the measurement
from the rear wear bar bolt to the straightedge (ski
„NOTE: The straightedge should be long enough toed-out) by more than 3.9 mm (5/32 in.).
to extend from the back of the track to the front of
the ski. 8. If ski alignment is not as specified, adjust the
alignment of the ski(s) not parallel to the straight-
5. Measure the distance from the straightedge to the edge.
left-side ski wear bar bolts in two places: approxi-
mately 18-20 cm (7-8 in.) in front of the spindle ADJUSTING
and 18-20 cm (7-8 in.) behind the spindle. Record (Bearcat/Crossfire/M-Series/
the measurements taken for the left side. Panther/Z)

„NOTE: The following procedure can be used to

adjust the alignment of either ski.

1. On Bearcat/Panther/Z models, remove the appro-

priate steering boot.
2. Secure the idler tie rod (Crossfire/M-Series mod-
els) or secure the steering drag link (Bearcat/Pan-
ther/Z models) in the centered position.
3. Loosen both spindle tie rod jam nuts on the same
side as the ski to be aligned.

729-887A 4. Using a wrench on the spindle tie rod “flats,”

rotate the spindle tie rod until recommended speci-
fication is attained. 7
5. Apply blue Loctite #243 to each jam nut thread
area; then lock the jam nuts against the spindle tie
rod.
„NOTE: Repeat this procedure on each side (if
necessary) until ski toe-out is within specification.

6. On Bearcat/Panther/Z models, install the steering

boot.

! WARNING
0734-408
Neglecting to lock the tie rod by tightening the jam
6. Place the straightedge against the outside edge of
nuts may cause loss of snowmobile control and pos-
the track so it lies near the inside edge of the right-
sible personal injury.
side ski.
ADJUSTING (F-Series)

„ NOTE: The following procedure can be used to

adjust the alignment of either ski.

To adjust ski alignment, use the following procedure.

7-29
 1. Secure the steering tie rod in the centered posi-
tion. Front
2. Loosen both spindle tie rod jam nuts on the Suspension Arms
same side as the ski to be aligned. (Bearcat/Panther/Z)
3. Using a wrench on the spindle tie rod “flats,”
rotate the spindle tie rod until recommended REMOVING
specification is attained.
1. Remove the expansion chamber if necessary.
4. Apply blue Loctite #243 to each jam nut thread 2. Position the front of the snowmobile up onto a
area; then lock the jam nuts against the spindle safety stand.
tie rod. Tighten to 1.7-2.1 kg-m (12-15 ft-lb).
3. Remove the lock nuts and cap screws securing the
„ NOTE: Repeat this procedure on each side (if shock absorber; then remove the shock absorber.
necessary) until ski toe-out is within specification. Account for all mounting hardware.

! WARNING
Neglecting to lock the tie rod by tightening the jam
nuts may cause loss of snowmobile control and pos-
sible personal injury.

VERIFYING

1. With the handlebar in the straight-ahead position,

verify ski alignment by measuring across from the
outside edge of the left-side wear bar bolts to the
outside edge of the right-side wear bar bolts (with-
out using the straightedge) in two places: approxi-
mately 18-20 cm (7-8 in.) in front of the spindle FS084C
and 18-20 cm (7-8 in.) behind the spindle. 4. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the
spindle to the front suspension arms. Account for
2. The measurement from in front of the spindle to all mounting hardware.
the outer edge of the wear bar bolts (without using
the straightedge) must not exceed the rear mea-
surement by more than 1.6-6.4 mm (1/16-1/4 in.)
toe-out.

FS086A

5. On models with a sway bar, remove the cap screw

and lock nut securing the sway bar link to the front
0734-408 suspension arm.
! WARNING 6. Remove the screws and lock nut securing the skid
plate; then remove the skid plate.
The measurement taken in front of the spindle must
never be less than the measurement taken behind
the spindle or poor handling will be experienced.
Neglecting to lock the tie rod by tightening the jam
nuts may cause loss of snowmobile control and pos-
sible personal injury.

7-30
 4. If applicable, place the sway bar link into position
on the suspension arm and secure with cap screw
and lock nut. Tighten securely.
5. Accounting for mounting hardware, install the
spindle onto the suspension arm with the cap
screws and lock washers.

AL144D
7. If applicable, remove the self-tapping screws
securing the steering boot to the front end.
8. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the
suspension arms to the front end; then remove the
arms.
INSPECTING FS086A

6. Place the shock absorber into position and secure

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively, with two cap screws, washers, axles, spacers,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is sleeves, and lock nuts. Tighten to specifications.
necessary.

1. Inspect the arm welded areas for cracks or any

signs of deterioration.
2. Inspect the bearings and axles for wear or damage.
3. Inspect the arm tubing for signs of twisting or
bending.
INSTALLING

1. Place the suspension arms into position on the

front end and secure with the cap screws (coated
with green Loctite #609) and lock nuts. Tighten
the upper arm cap screw and lock nut to specifica-
AL157D
7
tions. Tighten the lower arm cap screw and lock
nut to specifications.
2. If applicable, place the steering boot into position
on the front end. Secure with the self-tapping
screws.
3. Install the skid plate and secure with the screws,
washer, and lock nut.

FS084C
7. Install and secure the expansion chamber if
removed.

AL144D

7-31
 Front
Suspension Arms
(Crossfire/M-Series)

REMOVING

1. Position the front of the snowmobile up onto a

safety stand.
2. Remove the ski.
3. Remove the Allen-head cap screw securing the tie FS018

rod to the steering arm. 6. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
sway bar link to the front suspension arm.
4. Remove the lock nuts and cap screws securing the
shock absorber; then remove the shock absorber.
Account for all mounting hardware.

FC216
7. Remove the three torx-head screws securing the
air silencer to the front bumper.
FS017
5. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the
spindle to the front suspension arms. Account for
all mounting hardware.

FC217
8. Remove the two torx-head cap screws securing the
front bumper to the side belly pans.
FS019

7-32
 FC218 FC221
9. Remove the two hairpin clips and hood pins secur-
ing the hood to the front bumper.

FC222
11. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
upper arm. Account for the washer.
FC219

! CAUTION
To avoid damage to the hood, carefully close it and
rest it on the handlebar.

FC223
12. Remove the 10 torx-head screws securing the cen-
ter belly pan to the frame. Note the location of the
different-length screws for installing purposes.
FC220
10. Remove the remaining eight torx-head screws
securing the front bumper. Account for the center
belly pan screen.

FC224

7-33
13. Remove the rear belly pan.

FC226
2. Place the rear belly pan into position; then secure
FC225
with the 10 torx-head screws.
14. Remove the two cap screws and lock nuts securing
the lower arm; then remove the arm. Account for
all mounting hardware.

FC224
3. Place the front bumper into position; then secure
with the eight torx-head screws. Place the center
FC226
belly pan screen into position.
INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Inspect the arm welded areas for cracks or any

signs of deterioration.
2. Inspect the bearings and axles for wear or damage.
3. Inspect the arm tubing for signs of twisting or
bending.
INSTALLING FC221

1. Place the suspension arms into position on the

front end and secure with the cap screws and lock
nuts. Tighten each cap screw (threads coated with
green Loctite #609) and lock nut to specifications.

FC222

7-34
4. Place the hood into position on the front bumper;
then install the two hood pins and hairpin clips.

FC216
8. Secure the arms to the spindle with existing hard-
ware. Coat the threads with green Loctite #609;
FC219
then tighten the upper arm lock nut to specifica-
5. Place the side belly pans into position on the front tions and the lower arm lock nut to specifications.
bumper; then secure with the two torx-head cap
screws.

FS018

FC218
6. Place the air silencer into position on the front
bumper; then secure with the three torx-head
screws.

FS019
9. Secure the tie rod to the steering arm with the
Allen-head cap screw (coated with green Loctite
#609). Tighten to specifications.

FC217
7. Secure the sway bar link to the front arm with the
cap screw and lock nut. Tighten the lock nut
securely.

7-35
 2. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
upper arms to the spindle. Account for the spin-
dle axle.
3. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
front upper arm to the chassis; then remove the
cap screw and lock nut securing the rear upper
arm to the chassis. Account for the axles.
INSPECTING

„ NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
FC209 necessary.
10. Place the front shock absorber into position; then
secure with existing hardware. Tighten to specifi- 1. Inspect the arm welded areas for cracks or any
cations. signs of deterioration.
2. Inspect the bearings and axles for wear or
damage.
3. Inspect the arm tubing for signs of twisting or
bending.
INSTALLING UPPER ARMS

1. With the axles properly installed as noted during

removing, install the upper arms to the chassis;
then secure the arms with the cap screws and
lock nuts. Tighten to specifications.
FS017
2. With the axle installed in the spindle, secure the
11. Install the ski with existing hardware. upper arms to the spindle with the cap screw and
12. Remove the snowmobile from the safety stand. lock nut. Tighten to specifications.
REMOVING LOWER A-ARM
Front „NOTE: To remove the lower A-arms, it will be
Suspension Arms necessary to remove the air silencer. Proceed to
(F-Series) Air-Intake Silencer (F-Series) sub-section in Sec-
tion 4 and follow REMOVING procedure.
REMOVING UPPER ARMS 1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile with a suit-
able safety stand or lift.
„ NOTE: For installing purposes, note the posi-
tion of the axle shoulders. 2. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
shock absorber to the spindle; then remove the
shock from the spindle and account for the
shock sleeve.
3. Remove the four torx-head cap screws securing
the lower A-arm bearing cap to the spindle; then
remove the cap and lower arm from the spindle.

ZJ168A

1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile with a suit-

able safety stand or lift.
7-36
 INSPECTING

„ NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Inspect the arm welded areas for cracks or any

signs of deterioration.
2. Inspect the bearings and axles for wear or
damage.
3. Inspect the arm tubing for signs of twisting or
ZJ174A bending.
4. Secure the upper arms and spindle out of the
way; then remove the sway bar/link from the INSTALLING LOWER A-ARM
lower arm.
1. If removed, install new split bearings onto the
shaft of the lower A-arm; then using a suitable
pliers, evenly compress the bearing until it is
properly fitted to the shaft.
2. Install the lower A-arm into the sway bar link
and with the axles properly installed as noted in
removing, place the arm into position in the
chassis.
„ NOTE: When installing the lower A-arm, posi-
tion the shock absorber to the inside of the spindle
axle before securing the arm to the chassis.
0742-219

5. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing

the lower A-arm to the chassis; then remove the
arm from the sway bar and chassis and account
for the axles.
„ NOTE: For installing purposes, note the posi-
tion of the axle shoulders.
7

ZJ175

3. Install the cap screws and lock nuts securing the

A-arm to the chassis; then tighten to specifica-
tions.
„ NOTE: When installing the rear cap screw of the
A-arm, keep the cap screw approximately 1/2 in.
out from being fully installed. This will allow for
easier installation of the lock nut.
ZJ168A

6. If applicable using a flat-blade screwdriver, pry 4. Install the sway bar/link to the lower A-arm.
the split bearings from the spindle axle of the A-
arm. 5. Position the spindle into the lower A-arm; then
install the bearing cap and secure the cap to the
„ NOTE: The split bearings cannot be reused; spindle with the four torx-head cap screws.
they must be replaced with new ones. Tighten to specifications.

7-37
 CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Inspect the shock absorber seal area for signs of

excessive oil leakage.
2. Inspect the shock absorber mounting eyelet, bush-
ings, and sleeve for wear or damage.
3. Inspect the threaded shock sleeve for damage or
ZJ174A
wear. Clean the sleeve and apply a light coat of
grease to the threads before installing.
6. Install the shock absorber to the spindle; then
install the cap screw and lock nut. Tighten to INSTALLING
specifications.
1. Using the shock spring tool, place the spring on
„NOTE: To finalize the installing of the lower A- the shock absorber and secure with the retainer.
arms, proceed to Air-Intake Silencer (F-Series)
sub-section in Section 4 and follow the INSTALL- 2. Adjust the retainer nut (spring adjuster) until the
ING procedure. specified amount of threads are exposed between
the spring adjuster and the shock housing (noted in
removing) as an initial setting.
Front Suspension (Ski) 3. Install the bushings, sleeves, and spacers into each
Shock Absorber shock end; then place the shock absorber into posi-
tion. Install both cap screws from the front.
Tighten the lock nuts to specifications.
REMOVING

1. Position the front of the snowmobile up onto a Sway Bar

safety stand taking all pressure off the skis. (Bearcat/Panther/Z)
2. Remove the cap screws securing the shock
absorber to the front end assembly and spindle; REMOVING
then remove the shock absorber. Account for all
mounting hardware. 1. Remove the lock nuts and cap screws securing the
sway bar arm to the links and remove.
„NOTE: On models with a remote reservoir,
remove the clamp securing the reservoir to the 2. Remove the lock nuts and cap screws securing the
belly pan. sway bar arms to the sway bar; then remove the
arms. Pull the sway bar out and account for two
„NOTE: Note the number of threads exposed bearings.
between the spring adjuster and shock housing for
installing purposes. INSPECTING

3. Using the Shock Spring Removal Tool (p/n 0644- „NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
057), remove the spring from the shock body by cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
compressing the spring; then remove the spring necessary.
retainer from the top of the spring. Inspect the
shock absorber by quickly compressing and 1. Inspect the sway bar for any signs of twisting,
extending the shock plunger while firmly holding fatigue, or wear.
the shock body. Resistance must be felt in both
directions. 2. Inspect the sway bar arms for cracks or damage.
3. Inspect the inks, bushings, bushing retainers, and
hardware for damage or wear.

7-38
INSTALLING INSPECTING

„ NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

Key
1. Washer
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
2. Washer necessary.
3. Lock Nut
4. Cap Screw 1. Inspect the sway bar for any signs of twisting,
5. Cap Screw fatigue, or wear.
6. Lock Nut
7. Link
8. Cap Screw
2. Inspect the sway bar links for cracks or damage.
9. Lock Nut
10. Sway Bar INSTALLING
11. Bearing
12. Arm 1. Place the sway bar into position in the chassis;
then install the sway bar links to each end of the
sway bar and position the links onto the pins of
the A-arms.
736-034A 2. With the sway bar properly positioned in the
1. Place the sway bar into position; then install a chassis, install the sway bar mounting brackets
bearing on each end of the sway bar. and secure the brackets with the lock nuts and
tighten to specifications.
2. Slide the sway bar arms onto the sway bar until the
holes in the arms align with the notches in the
sway bar. Install the cap screws and lock nuts.
Tighten securely. Front Suspension
„NOTE: Make sure the arms are positioned on
Mounting Bracket
the same flat on both ends of the sway bar.
(F-Series)

3. Place the links into position on the sway bar arms; „NOTE: To remove the front suspension mount-
then secure with cap screws and lock nuts. ing bracket, it will be necessary to remove the air
silencer. Proceed to Air-Intake Silencer (F-Series)
Sway Bar sub-section in Section 4 and follow REMOVING
procedure.
(F-Series)
REMOVING
REMOVING

1. Remove the two lock nuts securing the sway bar

1. Remove the lock nut (A) securing the steering
post to the suspension mounting bracket. 7
mounting brackets to the chassis; then using a
soft hammer, tap the sway bar in either direction
until the sway bar link is off the pin on the A-
arm.

0742-219

2. Slide the sway bar out of the chassis.

7-39
 741-940B

2. Remove the cap screw and lock nut (B) securing 5. Remove all cap screws and lock nuts corre-
the steering tie rod and spindle tie rod to the sponding to (E) securing the left-side lower A-
drag link. arm and the left-side upper A-arms to the sus-
pension mounting bracket.
3. Remove the lock nuts (C) securing the two sway
bar mounting brackets to the suspension mount- „ NOTE: At this point, remove all cap screws and
ing bracket; then remove the brackets. lock nuts corresponding to (E) securing the right-
side upper A-arms and lower A-arm to the suspen-
4. Remove the sway bar/links (D) from the pins of sion mounting bracket.
the left-side/right-side lower A-arms.
6. Move the arms away from the bracket and
account for the axles (F).

7-40
 7. Remove the lock nut from the cap screw (G)
securing the left-side shock absorber to the shock
mounting frame; then remove the cap screw and
remove the left-side steering/suspension compo-
nents.
8. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts (H) securing
the two steering arms to the suspension mounting
bracket.
9. Remove the lock nuts and cap screws (I) securing
the two shock absorber mounting frames to the
suspension mounting bracket; then remove the
four lock nuts and cap screws (J) securing the
shock mounting frames to the front upper frame. ZJ169

„NOTE: Remove the lock nut from the cap screw INSPECTING
corresponding to (G) - left-side securing the right-
side shock absorber to the shock mounting frame; „NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
then remove the cap screw and slide the right-side cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
steering/suspension assembly out of the suspen- necessary.
sion mounting bracket. Account for the axles and
the shock absorber sleeve. 1. Inspect the mounting bracket and the shock
absorber mounting frames for cracks or unusual
„NOTE: For installing purposes, note the position bends.
of the longer 6 mm cap screws securing the shock
2. Inspect the bushings for wear or any signs of dam-
mounting frame to the suspension mounting age.
bracket.
INSTALLING
10. Remove the four upper (K) and four lower (L) cap
screws and lock nuts securing the suspension 1. Install the steering post with the proper number of
mounting bracket to the chassis; then remove the washers as noted during removing to the suspen-
bracket. sion mounting bracket with the lock nut (threads
„NOTE: For installing purposes, note the number
coated with green Loctite #609) (A). Tighten only
until snug.
of washers between the steering post and suspen-
sion mounting bracket before removing the
bracket.

ZJ169

7-41
 741-940B

2. Place the suspension mounting bracket into 4. Secure the two shock absorber mounting frames
position in the chassis and tighten until snug the to the suspension mounting bracket with cap
bracket to the chassis with the four upper (K) screws and lock nuts (I); then tighten to specifi-
and four lower (L) cap screws and lock nuts. cations. Tighten the four front frame cap screws
and lock nuts (J) to specifications.
„ NOTE: For ease of installing, do not tighten the
four upper and lower cap screws and lock nuts (K) „ NOTE: When installing the following steering/
and (L) at this time. suspension components, tighten the cap screws
and lock nuts only until snug until step 13.
3. Tighten the lock nut (A) securing the steering
post to the chassis to specifications.

7-42
 5. At this time to install the right-side steering/sus-
pension components, first install the shock with Step 5 Lock Nut (G) - RH 6.2 kg-m (45 ft-lb)
sleeve to the shock mounting frame with cap Step 6 Lock Nut (E) - RH 6.2 kg-m (45 ft-lb)
screw and lock nut corresponding to (G) - left-
side. Step 7 Lock Nut (H) - RH 2.8 kg-m (20 ft-lb)
Step 9 Lock Nut (G) - LH 6.2 kg-m (45 ft-lb)
6. At this time, position the drag link and steering
arms into the suspension mounting bracket; then Step 10 Lock Nuts (E) - LH 6.2 kg-m (45 ft-lb)
with axles in place, install the right-side upper Step 11 Lock Nut (H) - LH 2.8 kg-m (20 ft-lb)
A-arms and lower A-arm with all cap screws
Step 12 Lock Nut (B) 5.5 kg-m (40 ft-lb)
and lock nuts corresponding to (E).
„ NOTE: When installing the A-arms, make sure 14. Tighten the cap screws and lock nuts (K) and
the axle shoulders are properly positioned. (L) securing the suspension mounting bracket to
the chassis to specifications.
15. Position the sway bar links (D) onto the sway
bar; then install the sway bar/links onto the left-
side/right-side lower A-arm pins.
16. Secure the sway bar to the suspension mounting
bracket with the sway bar mounting brackets
and lock nuts (C). Tighten securely.
„NOTE: To finalize the installing of the front sus-
pension mounting bracket, proceed to Air-Intake
Silencer (F-Series) sub-section in Section 4 and
follow INSTALLING procedure.
ZJ168A

7. Install the right-side steering arm with cap screw

and lock nut (H). Console
(Crossfire/M-Series)
8. To install the left-side steering components, first
place the sway bar into the sway bar link on the
right-side A-arm; then move the sway bar to the REMOVING
mounting position.
1. Pull the recoil starter rope outward; then tie a slip-
9. Install the left-side shock absorber with sleeve knot in the recoil rope near the case. Slowly allow
to the shock mounting frame with cap screw and
lock nut (G).
the rope to retract to the knot. 7
2. Untie the knot in the end of the recoil starter rope;
10. With the axles (F) properly installed, install the then remove the handle from the rope. Account for
left-side upper A-arms; then install the lower A- the cap.
arm with all cap screws and lock nuts corre-
sponding to (E). 3. Disconnect the wiring harness from the ignition
switch.
11. Install the left-side steering arm with axle to the 4. Remove the torx-head screws securing the con-
suspension mounting bracket with cap screw sole; then remove the console.
and lock nut corresponding to (H) - right-side.
12. Install the left-side spindle tie rod and the steer-
ing tie rod to the drag link with cap screw and
lock nut (B).
13. Tighten all steering/suspension components
(from steps 5-7 and 9-12) in the following
sequence and to the indicated torque values:

FC227

7-43
INSTALLING

1. Place the console into position; then secure the

console with the torx-head screws.

741-722A
2. Remove the console.
INSTALLING
FC227
1. Place the console into position on the headlight
2. Connect the wiring harness to the ignition switch. support bracket; then connect the console harness
connector.
3. Thread the recoil starter rope through the console
and handle. Tie a knot at the end of the recoil rope. 2. Secure the console to the chassis with the two
Seat the cap. Remove the slip-knot and allow the torx-head screws.
rope to retract.

Belly Pan
Console (Bearcat/Panther/Z)
(Bearcat/Panther/Z)
„NOTE: The following procedure is for a typical
REMOVING Arctic Cat snowmobile belly pan. Some compo-
nents will vary from model to model. The techni-
1. Remove the self-tapping screws securing the con- cian should use discretion and sound judgment.
sole; then raise the console.
REMOVING LEFT-SIDE
2. Disconnect the wiring harness from the ignition
switch and the outlet (if applicable). Remove the
choke nut securing the choke assembly to the con- 1. Remove the left-side louver.
sole; then slide the choke cable out of the console.
3. Remove the console.
INSTALLING

1. Place the console into position.

2. Connect the wiring harness to the ignition switch
and the outlet (if applicable). Secure the choke
assembly to the console with the choke nut.
3. Secure the console with the self-tapping screws.

AL170D
Console 2. Remove the left-side louver foam.
(F-Series)

REMOVING

1. Remove the two torx-head screws securing the

console to the chassis; then lift up the rearward
end of the console and disconnect the console har-
ness plug-in.

7-44
 AL171D AL175D
3. Remove the left-side cap screw securing the 8. Remove the screws securing the left-side steering
bumper to the air-intake silencer plenum. tie rod boot; then remove the boot.

AL172D AL177D
4. Open the belt guard; then remove the speedometer 9. Remove the shock absorber bolt.
cable from the speedometer drive.
5. Cut the cable ties securing the speedometer cable
to the belly pan; then route the speedometer cable
away from the belt guard.
6. Remove the left-side front belly pan cap screw.
7

AL178D
10. Remove the torx-head screws securing the belly
pan underneath the shock mount.

AL173D
7. Using a piece of cardboard to protect the finish, tip
the snowmobile on the right side; then remove the
torx-head screws securing the belly pan to the
frame and tunnel.

AL179D

7-45
11. Remove the front belly pan-to-nosepiece Phillips-
head screws.

AL182D
3. Secure the front belly pan to the nosepiece with
Phillips-head screws.
AL181D
12. Remove the front belly pan-to-nosepiece torx-
head screws.

AL181D
4. Install the torx-head screws securing the belly pan
underneath the shock mount.
AL182D
13. Remove the belly pan assembly from the snowmo-
bile.
INSPECTING LEFT-SIDE

1. Inspect for gouges, cuts, and tears.

2. Inspect all belly pan threaded bosses that they are
in good shape.
INSTALLING LEFT-SIDE

1. Place the belly pan assembly in position in the

frame. AL179D

2. Secure the front belly pan to the nosepiece with 5. Install the shock absorber bolt. Tighten to specifi-
torx-head screws. cations.

7-46
 AL178D AL173D
6. Install the left-side steering tie rod boot. Secure 9. Route the speedometer cable through the belt
with the screws. guard; then install cable ties to secure the speed-
ometer cable to the belly pan.
10. Place the speedometer cable through the speedom-
eter drive; then close the belt guard.
11. Install the left-side cap screw securing the bumper
to the air-intake silencer plenum.

AL177D
7. Install the torx-head screws securing the belly pan
to the frame and tunnel; then return the snowmo-
bile to an upright position.

AL172D
12. Insert the left-side louver foam.
7

AL175D
8. Install the left-side front belly pan cap screw.

AL171D
13. Install the left-side louver.

7-47
 AL170D AL185D
4. Remove the right-side cap screws securing the
REMOVING RIGHT-SIDE bumper to the air-intake silencer plenum.

1. Remove the right-side front belly pan cap screw.

Account for a flat washer and a lock nut.

AL186D
5. Using a piece of cardboard to protect the finish, tip
the snowmobile on the left side; then remove the
AL183D right-side belly pan torx-head screws from the
2. Remove the right-side louver. center belly pan and tunnel.

AL184D AL188D
3. Remove the right-side louver foam. 6. Remove the screws securing the right-side steering
tie rod boot; then remove the boot.

7-48
 10. Remove the front belly pan-to-nosepiece torx-
head screws.

AL190D
7. Remove the shock absorber.
AL182D
11. Remove the belly pan from the frame.
INSPECTING RIGHT-SIDE

1. Inspect for gouges, cuts, and tears.

2. Inspect all belly pan threaded bosses that they are
in good shape.
INSTALLING RIGHT-SIDE

1. Place the belly pan assembly in position in the

AL178D
frame.
8. Remove the belly pan torx-head screws under- 2. Install the nosepiece torx-head screws to the front
neath the shock mount. belly pan.

AL179D AL182D
9. Remove the front belly pan-to-nosepiece Phillips- 3. Install the nosepiece Phillips-head screw to the
head screw. front belly pan.

AL181D AL181D

7-49
 4. Install the belly pan torx-head screws underneath
the shock mount.

AL188D
8. Install the right-side cap screws securing the
bumper to the air-intake silencer plenum.
AL179D
5. Install the shock absorber. Tighten to specifica-
tions.

AL186D
9. Insert the right-side louver foam.
AL178D
6. Install the right-side steering tie rod boot. Secure
with the screws.

AL185D
10. Install the right-side louver.

AL190D
7. Install the right-side belly pan torx-head screws to
the center belly pan and tunnel; then return the
snowmobile to an upright position.

AL184D

7-50
11. Install the right-side front belly pan cap screw, 2. Disconnect the ignition harness; then remove the
washer, and lock nut. torx-head screws securing the air silencer to the
front bumper.

AL183D
FC217
3. Remove the remaining torx-head screws securing
Belly Pan the front bumper. Account for the center belly pan
(Crossfire/M-Series) screen.

REMOVING

1. Remove the access panels and the hairpin clips

from the hood pins; then remove the pins securing
the hood to the front bumper.

FC221

7
FC219

! CAUTION
To avoid damage to the hood, carefully close it and
rest it on the handlebar.

FC222
4. Remove the torx-head screws securing the center
belly pan to the frame. Note the location of differ-
ent-length screws for installing purposes.

FC220

7-51
 FC224 FC224
5. Remove the center belly pan. 4. Place the front bumper into position; then secure
with the eight torx-head screws. Place the center
belly pan screen into position.

FC225

„NOTE: If removing the right-side belly pan only, FC221

the resonator must be removed. If removing the
left-side belly pan only, the clutch guard must be
removed.

6. Remove the torx-head screws securing each side

belly pan to the frame.
7. Using a 3/16 in. drill bit, drill out the rivets secur-
ing each side belly pan to the frame; then remove
the belly pans.
INSPECTING

1. Inspect for gouges, cuts, and tears.

FC222
2. Inspect all belly pan threaded bosses that they are 5. Place the air silencer into position on the front
in good shape. bumper; then secure with the torx-head screws.
Connect the ignition harness.
INSTALLING

„NOTE: Steps 1-2 should be used for each side

belly pan.

1. Place the side belly pan into position on the frame;

then secure with the torx-head screws.
2. Using an appropriate rivet gun, secure the side
belly pan with six rivets.
3. Place the rear belly pan into position; then secure
with the torx-head screws.

FC217

7-52
 6. Place the hood into position on the front bumper; 4. Secure the seat to the tunnel with two cap screws,
then install the two hood pins and hairpin clips. washers, and lock nuts.
5. Install the console (see the appropriate Console in
this section).

Gas Tank/
Seat Assembly
(Crossfire/M-Series)

REMOVING

1. Trip the seat latches inside the storage compart-

FC219
ment and remove the seat.

„NOTE: If applicable, install the resonator and/or 2. Remove the console (see the appropriate Console
the clutch guard. in this section).
3. Drain the gasoline from the gas tank.

Gas Tank/ 4. Remove the two lock nuts securing the steering
post mounting blocks to the gas tank; then remove
Seat Assembly the two lock nuts securing the gas tank to the chas-
(Bearcat/Panther/Z) sis. Disconnect the fuel hose and the fuel pump
two-wire connector; then remove the gas tank.
„NOTE: Some components may vary from model
to model. The technician should use discretion
and sound judgment.

REMOVING

„NOTE: If so equipped, turn the gas tank shut-off

valve to the CLOSED position.

1. Remove the console (see the appropriate Console

in this section).
2. Remove the two cap screws, washers, and lock
nuts (located in the rear compartment) securing the
7
CM003A
seat to the tunnel.
3. Remove the vent hose from the gas tank. INSTALLING

4. Raise the rear of the seat high enough to discon- 1. Install the gas tank onto the steering post mounting
nect the taillight wiring harness. blocks and the steering support; then secure the
gas tank to the chassis and to the steering support
5. Slide the gas tank/seat assembly back far enough with the four lock nuts. Connect the fuel hose and
to access the fuel hose; then disconnect the fuel the fuel pump two-wire connector.
hose.
2. Install the console (see the appropriate Console in
6. Remove the gas tank/seat assembly. this section).
INSTALLING 3. Place the seat into position and secure with the
latches inside the storage compartment.
1. Place the seat in position on the tunnel; then con-
nect the fuel hose.
2. Connect the vent hose to the gas tank.
3. Raise the rear of the seat high enough to connect
the taillight wiring harness making sure the har-
ness is positioned into the groove of the seat base.

7-53
 Gas Tank/
Seat Assembly
(F-Series)

REMOVING

1. Remove the hood and open the right-side and

left-side access panels.
2. Remove the two torx-head cap screws (A)
securing the console to the chassis; then lift up ZJ010A
the rearward end of the console and disconnect 8. Disconnect the fuel pump four-wire connector;
the console harness plug-in. Remove the con- then slide the gas tank rearward enough to gain
sole. access to the gasline hose connector.

FS261A

9. Compress the clip on the gasline hose connector

and remove the hose from the gas tank; then dis-
connect the gas tank vent hose and close off the
vent hose outlet of the gas tank and remove the
gas tank.
0741-965

3. Remove the two torx-head cap screws (B) secur-

ing the handlebar close-off panel; then remove
the three torx-head cap screws (C) securing the
rear side panels (spars) to the seat support tubes.
4. Remove the two screws (D) securing the knee
pads to the gas tank; then remove the remaining
body screws securing the knee pads to the steer-
ing support.
5. Adjust the seat to the lowest position; then while
lifting on the top forward part of the seat,
remove the machine screw (E) from the right
side of the seat support assembly. Remove the FS262A
seat.
! CAUTION
6. Remove the four cap screws (F) securing the The gasline supply hose may be under pressure.
support tubes to support plate. Place an absorbent towel around the connection to
absorb gasoline; then remove the hose slowly to
7. Remove the six torx-head screws (G) securing release the pressure.
the seat support assembly to the tunnel; then
slide the support back out of the way.

7-54
INSTALLING

1. Install the gasline hose onto the tank and press

down on the connector until it snaps into place;
then install the vent hose to the outlet and secure
with the hose clamp.

FS261A

5. Install the screws (D) and the body screws

securing the knee pads to the gas tank and the
steering support; then secure the rear side panels
(spars) with the three torx-head cap screws (C)
for each side.

FS262B 6. Install the handlebar close-off panel; then secure

the panel with the two torx-head cap screws (B).
! CAUTION Position the console assembly on the headlight
Prior to continuing the installing procedure, make support bracket; then connect the main hood
sure the gasline hose is properly and securely harness.
“snapped” onto the gas tank.
7. Install the console to the steering support with
the two torx-head cap screws (A). Tighten
2. Install the gas tank to its proper position; then securely.
secure the tank with the seat support assembly
and install the four cap screws (F) securing the 8. Install the hood; then close the side access panels.
seat support tubes to the support plate. Tighten
securely. 9. Install the seat; then install the machine screw
(E) (threads coated with blue Loctite #243) to
the right side of the seat support.

! CAUTION
It is critical that machine screw (E) is not installed
tight against the seat support. The screw must be 7
loose enough to be effective as a seat “stop.”

Seat Cushion

„NOTE: Some components may vary from model

to model. The technician should use discretion
and sound judgment.

REMOVING

1. Remove the gas tank/seat assembly (see the appro-

0741-965
priate Gas Tank/Seat Assembly in this section).

„ NOTE: Prior to installing the cap screws, it may 2. Remove the two screws securing the taillight
be necessary to align the U-nut clips with a punch. cover; then remove the cover.
3. Remove the two screws securing the front of the
3. Install the six torx-head cap screws (G) securing seat cushion to the seat base.
the seat support assembly to the tunnel.
4. Using a sharp tool, pry out all staples securing the
4. Connect the fuel pump four-wire connector. seat cover to the plastic seat base.

7-55
 5. From beneath the seat foam, remove the seat wire
from the two elastic loops; then remove the cover
from the seat base and seat foam.
Taillight/Brakelight
Assembly
INSTALLING

„NOTE: If the seat cover was removed, position REMOVING (Bearcat/Panther/Z)

the cover over the seat foam and plastic seat base.
Check to make sure it is positioned straight; then 1. Remove the four screws securing the taillight lens
fold the rear edge of the cushion down and around to the housing. Account for a gasket.
the base. Using a staple gun and 6 mm (1/4 in.) sta- 2. Remove the four machine screws securing the
ples, staple the rear flap of the cushion to the base backing plate to the taillight housing.
in the same areas as the original staples were
located. Position staples 2.5 cm (1 in.) apart. Fold 3. Remove the two screws, lock washers, and wash-
the sides of the cushion down around the bottom ers securing the seat base to the tunnel. Lift the
edge of the base. Position the staples in the same seat from the tunnel. Disconnect the taillight wir-
areas as the original staples were located. ing harness.
4. Remove the two lock nuts and washers securing
! CAUTION the taillight housing to the rear of the seat base.
On Bearcat/Panther/Z models, beneath the seat base Pull the housing free of the base.
is a dotted guideline to follow when stapling the seat
INSTALLING (Bearcat/Panther/Z)
cover. Do not staple inside this guideline or perfora-
tion of the gas tank may occur.
KEY
1. Position the cover over the seat foam and seat 1. Taillight w/Socket Assy
base; then pull the two elastic loops through the 2. Bulb
slots in the seat foam and secure with the seat 3. Gasket
wire. Check to make sure it is positioned straight. 4. Lens
5. Retaining Screw
2. Fold the rear edge of the cushion down and around
the plastic base. Using a staple gun and 6 mm (1/4
in.) staples, staple the rear flap of the cushion to
the plastic base in the same areas as the original
staples were located. Position staples 2.5 cm (1
in.) apart.
3. Fold the sides of the cushion down around the bot- 728-384B
tom edge of the plastic seat base. Position the sta- 1. Connect the wiring harness and place the seat into
ples in the same area as the original staples were position. Secure with two screws, lock nuts, and
located. washers.
„NOTE: Note the cushion fit. If any wrinkles are 2. Place the taillight housing into position and secure
noted, remove by pulling the cushion material in to the seat base with two lock nuts and washers.
the appropriate direction before securing with sta- Tighten securely.
ples.
3. Install the lens. Secure lens with four screws.
4. Fold the front cushion material back and onto the
plastic seat base. Check for wrinkles and secure 4. Secure the backing plate to the taillight housing
with staples and two screws. with the existing machine screws.

5. Install the taillight housing and secure with the REMOVING (Crossfire/F-Series/
screws. M-Series)

6. Install the gas tank/seat assembly (see appropriate 1. On the F-Series, from inside the rear storage com-
Gas Tank/Seat Assembly in this section). partment, remove the self-tapping screws and
washers securing the taillight/brakelight housing.

7-56
 Windshield
(Bearcat/Crossfire/M-Series/
Panther/Z)

REMOVING

KEY Crossfire/M-Series
1. Windshield
2. O-Ring
3. Rivet

741-680A
2. On the Crossfire/M-Series, remove the machine
screw securing the taillight/brakelight housing to
the rear bumper; then remove the two self-tapping
screws and washers securing the taillight/brake-
light to the housing.

740-254A

Bearcat/
Panther/Z

KEY
1. Windshield
2. Machine Screw
3. Snap and Cap
4. Expansion Nut
0742-338 5. O-Ring
3. Disconnect the harness connector and remove 6. Mirror
housing. 739-527A

INSTALLING (Crossfire/F-Series/ 1. Remove the O-rings securing windshield to the

hood.
M-Series)

1. Connect the harness connector.

2. Remove the caps covering the screws; then 7
remove the screws w/snaps.
2. On the Crossfire/M-Series, secure the taillight/ 3. Remove the windshield.
brakelight to the housing with the two self-tapping
screws and washers; then secure the housing to the INSTALLING
rear bumper with the machine screw.
1. Place the windshield into position and install the
3. On the F-Series, place the housing into position; O-rings.
then from inside the rear storage compartment,
secure with the self-tapping screws and washers. 2. Secure the windshield to the hood with screws w/
snaps. Install the caps.

7-57
 INSTALLING
Windshield
(F-Series — Non-Adjustable)

REMOVING

1. Remove the plastic rivet securing the front of the

windshield to the windshield bracket.
2. Remove the two torx-head screws securing the
windshield to the console; then separate the wind-
shield from the console.
INSTALLING

0741-507
1. In turn on each side of the windshield base, install
the latch with the backing plate; then install the
thumb screw leaving enough “gap” to insert the
windshield.
2. Insert the windshield into latches; then tighten the
thumb screws securely.

Backrest/Rack
Assembly
741-637A
1. Place the windshield into position on the console.
„NOTE: Some components may vary from model
2. Secure the windshield to the console with the torx- to model. The technician should use discretion
head screws. and sound judgment.

3. Using a new plastic rivet, secure the windshield to REMOVING

the windshield bracket.
1. Remove the cap screws, washers, and cap nuts
securing the rack to the backrest.
Windshield
(F-Series — Adjustable) 2. In turn on each side, remove the two cap screws
(inside the tunnel) securing the backrest assembly
to the tunnel. Account for the washers.
REMOVING
3. If applicable, disconnect the passenger hand-
1. Loosen and remove the thumb screw from each warmer wiring harness.
side; then account for the latch with backing plate. 4. Remove the backrest assembly from the tunnel.
2. Remove the windshield. Account for the two spacers.
INSTALLING

1. Place the backrest assembly and spacers (located

on the rear hole on each side) into position and
align holes with tunnel mounting holes.
2. Install the cap screws with washers from the inside
of the tunnel and secure with the washers and lock
nuts. Tighten securely.

7-58
3. In turn on each side, install the 1/4-in. cap screw in
the front hole and the 5/16-in. cap screw in the rear
hole. Secure with a flat washer and lock nut.
Tunnel/Chassis/
Tighten securely. Rear Bumper/Snowflap
(Crossfire/M-Series)
4. If applicable, connect the passenger handwarmer
wiring harness.
REMOVING/REPLACING TUNNEL
5. Place the rack into position and secure with the
cap screws, washers, and cap. To remove and/or replace a tunnel on a particular
snowmobile, a number of removing and installing
component sequences must be followed. The techni-
Tunnel/Rear Bumper/ cian must in turn go to the following sections in this
Snowflap manual and refer to the appropriate removing/
(Bearcat/Panther/Z) installing sub-sections. When doing these
sequences, the technician should use discretion and
sound judgment.
„NOTE: Some components will vary from model
to model. The technician should use discretion A. Section 2 - Engine
and sound judgment.
B. Section 7 - Steering and Body
REMOVING/DISASSEMBLING
C. Section 8 - Drive Train and Brake Systems
„NOTE: The snowflap can be removed without
removing the bumper by removing the three D. Section 9 - Track/Rear Suspension
bumper/snowflap cap screws.
REMOVING BUMPER/SNOWFLAP
1. Remove the cap screws securing the bumper
assembly to the tunnel. Account for the U-nuts and 1. Remove the machine screw securing the taillight
cap screws. housing to the bumper assembly; then disconnect
the taillight wiring harness.
2. Slide the bumper/snowflap off the tunnel.
2. Remove the torx-head screws securing the snowflap
3. Remove the cap screws securing the snowflap to to the bumper; then remove the snowflap.
the bumper and separate the bumper and snowflap.
Account for cap screws, washers, and lock nuts.
ASSEMBLING/INSTALLING

1. Secure the snowflap to the bumper with the cap

screws, washers, and lock washers taking care to 7
place the washers next to the underside of the
snowflap. Finger-tighten the cap screws to the lock
nuts; then tighten the cap screws securely.
2. Place the bumper assembly into position on the
tunnel and secure with the cap screws and U-nuts.
Tighten the cap screws securely.
FC232
3. Remove the torx-head screws securing the bumper
to the tunnel.

4. Remove the taillight/bumper assembly from the

tunnel.
INSTALLING BUMPER/SNOWFLAP

1. Install the bumper assembly to the tunnel; then

secure with the torx-head cap screws.
2. Secure the snowflap to the bumper with the torx-
head screws.

7-59
 3. Connect the taillight wiring harness; then install 4. Remove the two self-tapping screws securing
the taillight housing onto the bumper assembly. the bumper to the heat exchanger. Account for
the bracket covers.

Tunnel/Chassis/ 5. Remove the two self-tapping screws securing

Rear Bumper/Snowflap the fender to the bumper; then remove the
bumper.
(F-Series)
INSTALLING BUMPER/SNOWFLAP
REMOVING/REPLACING TUNNEL
1. Place the bumper into position on the tunnel;
To remove and/or replace a tunnel on a particular then install the four machine screws and lock
snowmobile, a number of removing and installing nuts securing the bumper to the tunnel. Tighten
component sequences must be followed. The techni- the lock nuts securely.
cian must in turn go to the following sections in this
manual and refer to the appropriate removing/ 2. Place the tunnel fender into position engaging
installing sub-sections. When doing these the tabs of the fender with the slots of the tunnel.
sequences, the technician should use discretion and
sound judgment. 3. Install the two self-tapping screws (threads
coated with blue Loctite #243) securing the
A. Section 2 - Engine bumper to the heat exchanger. Tighten the
screws to specifications.
B. Section 7 - Steering and Body
C. Section 8 - Drive Train and Brake Systems
D. Section 9 - Track/Rear Suspension
REMOVING BUMPER/SNOWFLAP

„ NOTE: The snowflap can be removed without

removing the bumper by removing the two self-
tapping screws securing the snowflap to the heat
exchanger.

1. Carefully pry upward on the tunnel fender until ZJ297B

the fender tabs clear the slots in the tunnel; then 4. Secure the tunnel fender to the bumper with the
lift upward and outward on the fender to access two self-tapping screws. Tighten the screws
the machine screws and lock nuts securing the securely.
bumper to the tunnel.
5. Place the snowflap into position; then secure the
snowflap to the heat exchanger with the two
self-tapping screws (threads coated with blue
Loctite #243). Tighten the screws to specifica-
tions.

ZJ298A

2. Remove the four machine screws and lock nuts

securing the bumper to the tunnel.
3. Remove the two self-tapping screws securing
the snowflap to the heat exchanger; then slide FS263A
the snowflap away from the fender and bumper.

7-60
 Rear Storage Air Silencer Assembly
Compartment (Crossfire/M-Series)
(F-Series)
REMOVING
REMOVING
1. Remove the connector clamp securing the intake
connector (hose) to the hood screen (right-side).

FC248
2. With the hood closed, loosen the headlight adjust-
ment knobs.
3. Carefully push the headlight lenses rearward far
enough to remove the torx-head screws securing
the air silencer plenum to the hood.
4. Open the hood; then remove the O-rings securing
the air silencer plenums to the hood and remove
the air silencer plenums.
INSTALLING

1. Press the air silencer plenums into place on the

hood and secure with the O-rings; then close the
hood.
7
2. Carefully push the headlight lenses rearward far
enough to install the torx-head screws. Tighten the
screws securely.
3. Tighten the headlight adjustment knobs.
0741-970
4. Check headlight aim (see Adjusting Headlight
1. Remove the six self-tapping screws (A) securing Aim in this sub-section).
the storage compartment to the tunnel fender.
2. Remove the four body screws (B) securing the Headlight Assembly
fender to the tunnel; then disconnect the taillight
plug-in and remove the fender. (Bearcat/Panther/Z)

INSTALLING REMOVING HEADLIGHT BULB

1. Connect the taillight harness plug-in and install „NOTE: The bulb portion of the headlight is frag-
the fender with the four body screws (B); then ile. HANDLE WITH CARE. When replacing the
tighten the screws securely. headlight bulb, the bulb assembly must first be
removed from the housing. Do not touch the glass
2. Place the storage compartment into position on
portion of the bulb. If the glass is touched, it must
the fender; then install the six self-tapping
screws (A). Tighten the screws securely. be cleaned with a dry cloth before installing.

7-61
 1. Pull the wiring harness retaining clip away from 1. On the LXR, release the latches securing the
the headlight bulb base and disconnect the wiring windshield to the windshield base; then remove
harness from the bulb. the windshield.
2. Remove the two torx-head cap screws located to
the outside of the headlight adjustment knobs;
then remove the single torx-head cap screw
from beneath the console (located between the
headlights).

0733-178
2. Rotate the headlight bulb base counterclockwise
and remove the bulb from the headlight housing.
INSTALLING HEADLIGHT BULB

! CAUTION 741-505A

Do not touch the glass portion of the bulb. If the 3. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
glass portion is touched, it must be cleaned with a front of the headlight assembly to the air-intake
dry cloth before installing. silencer.

1. While holding the bulb by its base, insert the bulb 4. Lift the front of the console enough to allow the
into the headlight housing and rotate it clockwise headlight housing to be removed; then remove
until it locks into the housing. the housing.

2. Plug the wiring harness into the headlight bulb 5. Remove the bulb from the headlight housing
base making sure the retaining clip locks onto the and disconnect the wiring harness from the bulb.
base.
3. Check headlight aim (see Adjusting Headlight
Aim in this section).

! WARNING
Do not operate the snowmobile unless headlight
beam is adjusted properly. An incorrectly adjusted
beam will not provide the operator the optimum
amount of light.

Headlight Assembly
(F-Series) 741-329A

INSTALLING HEADLIGHT BULB

REMOVING HEADLIGHT BULB

„NOTE: The bulb portion of the headlight is frag- ! CAUTION

ile. HANDLE WITH CARE. When replacing the Do not touch the glass portion of the bulb. If the
headlight bulb, the bulb assembly must first be glass portion is touched, it must be cleaned with a
removed from the housing. Do not touch the glass dry cloth before installing.
portion of the bulb. If the glass is touched, it must
be cleaned with a dry cloth before installing. 1. Insert the bulb into the headlight housing; then
lock the bulb into position.
To access the headlight bulbs, use the following pro-
cedure: 2. Plug the wiring harness into the headlight bulb.

7-62
 3. Lift the front of the console enough to allow the 1. With the hood closed, loosen the headlight adjust-
headlight housing to be installed; then install the ment knobs.
housing making sure the forks of the housing go
into the grommets on top of the air-intake 2. Open the hood; then on the right-side air intake,
silencer. Secure with the cap screw and lock nut. remove the rubber plug and hairpin clip at the for-
ward end of the intake assembly.
„NOTE: Carefully push the headlight lenses
inward far enough to access the torx-head screws
securing the air intake assembly to the hood.

3. Remove the lock nuts from the torx-head screws

and the O-rings securing the air intake assembly to
the hood and remove the air intake assembly to
access the bulbs.

0741-506

4. Position the console onto the air-intake silencer;

then secure with the single torx-head cap screw
beneath the console (located between the head-
lights).
5. Install the two torx-head cap screws located to
the outside of the headlight adjustment knobs;
then tighten securely.
0740-796
6. On the LXR, place the windshield into position „NOTE: If replacing the headlight assembly, the
on the windshield base; then secure with the adjustment knobs must be removed.
latches.
4. If replacing the bulb(s), remove the bulb(s) from
7. Check headlight aim (see Adjusting Headlight the headlight housing and disconnect the wiring
Aim in this section). harness from the bulb(s).
5. Remove the hairpin clips securing the headlight
! WARNING assembly to the hood; then remove the assembly.
Do not operate the snowmobile unless headlight INSTALLING HEADLIGHT BULB/ 7
beam is adjusted properly. An incorrectly adjusted
HEADLIGHT
beam will not provide the operator the optimum
amount of light.
1. Install the headlight assembly on the hood; then
secure with the hairpin clips.

Headlight Assembly ! CAUTION

(Crossfire/M-Series) Do not touch the glass portion of the bulb. If the
glass portion is touched, it must be cleaned with a
REMOVING HEADLIGHT BULB/ dry cloth before installing.
HEADLIGHT
2. If the bulb(s) was replaced, plug the wiring har-
„NOTE: The bulb portion of the headlight is frag-
ness into the headlight bulb and secure with cable
ties.
ile. HANDLE WITH CARE. When replacing the
headlight bulb, the bulb assembly must first be 3. Insert the bulb into the headlight housing.
removed from the housing. Do not touch the glass
portion of the bulb. If the glass is touched, it must 4. Press the air intake assembly into place on the
be cleaned with a dry cloth before installing. hood and secure with the O-rings and hairpin
clips.
To access the headlight assembly, use the following 5. Carefully push the headlight lenses inward far
procedure. enough to access the torx-head screws. Install the
lock nuts and tighten securely.

7-63
 6. Install the headlight adjustment knobs.
7. Check headlight aim (see Adjusting Headlight Torque Specifications
Aim in this sub-section). (Bearcat/Panther/Z)

Adjusting ITEM TORQUE

Headlight Aim Ski ft-lb
kg-m
21-26
2.9-3.6
Handlebar Adjuster Block ft-lb 10
The headlight can be adjusted for vertical aim of the kg-m 1.4
HIGH/LOW beam. The geometric center of HIGH Steering Post/Tie Rod* ft-lb 30
beam zone is to be used for vertical aiming. kg-m 4.2
Drag Link/Tie Rod* ft-lb 20
1. Position the snowmobile on a level floor so the kg-m 2.8
headlight is approximately 8 m (25 ft) from an Drag Link/Steering/Idler Arm* ft-lb 30
aiming surface (wall or similar surface). kg-m 4.2
„NOTE: There should be an “average” operating Spindle Arm/Tie Rod* ft-lb 30
kg-m 4.2
load on the snowmobile when adjusting headlight
aim. Suspension Arms/Spindle* ft-lb 30
kg-m 4.2

2. Measure the distance from the floor to midpoint of Shock Absorber/Spindle ft-lb 20
kg-m 2.8
the headlight.
Front Suspension Arm* ft-lb 30
3. Using the measurement obtained in step 2, make a (Upper) kg-m 4.2
horizontal mark on the aiming surface. Front Suspension Arm* ft-lb 40
(Lower) kg-m 5.5
4. Make a vertical mark which intersects the horizon- Steering Post/Chassis* ft-lb 30
tal mark on the aiming surface directly in front of kg-m 4.2
the headlight. Tie Rod/Steering Arm* ft-lb 30
kg-m 4.2
5. Start the engine. Select the headlight dimmer
switch HIGH beam position. DO NOT USE LOW Steering Arm/Chassis* ft-lb 30
kg-m 4.2
BEAM.
6. Observe the headlight beam aim. Proper aim is * w/Green Loctite #609
when the most intense beam is centered on the ver-
tical mark 5 cm (2 in.) below the horizontal mark
on the aiming surface.

0741-448
7. Adjust the headlight housing mounting screws (on
the 3-bulb models) or the console adjustment
knobs (on the 4-bulb models) until correct aim is
obtained. Shut the engine off.

7-64
 Torque Specifications Torque Specifications
(Crossfire/M-Series) (F-Series)

ITEM TORQUE ITEM TORQUE

Ski ft-lb 21-26
kg-m 2.9-3.6 Ski ft-lb 26
kg-m 3.6
Handlebar Adjuster Block ft-lb 10
kg-m 1.4 Spindle Arm/Spindle** ft-lb 30
kg-m 4.2
Steering Post Mounting Block ft-lb 8
kg-m 1.1 Suspension Arm/Spindle* ft-lb 45
kg-m 6.2
Steering Post Stop** ft-lb 2
kg-m 0.3 Front Suspension Arm ft-lb 45
Steering Tie Rod/Shaft Arm* ft-lb 30 (Upper) kg-m 6.2
kg-m 4.2
Front Suspension Arm ft-lb 45
Steering Post/Tie Rod* ft-lb 30 (Lower) kg-m 6.2
kg-m 4.2
Steering Arm/Suspension ft-lb 30
Spindle Arm/Tie Rod* ft-lb 40 Mounting Bracket kg-m 4.2
kg-m 5.5
Sway Bar Mounting Bracket/ ft-lb 10
Suspension Arm/Spindle* ft-lb 30 Suspension Mounting Bracket kg-m 1.4
(Upper) kg-m 4.2
Suspension Arm/Spindle* ft-lb 40 Tie Rod Jam Nut** ft-lb 12-15
(Lower) kg-m 5.5 kg-m 1.7-2.1

Shock Absorber/Spindle ft-lb 20 Spindle Arm/Tie Rod* ft-lb 30

kg-m 2.8 kg-m 4.2
Front Suspension Arm/Chassis* ft-lb 30 Steering Post/Steering Tie Rod* ft-lb 40
(Upper) kg-m 4.2 kg-m 5.5
Front Suspension Arm/Chassis* ft-lb 30 Drag Link/Steering and ft-lb 40
(Lower) kg-m 4.2 Spindle Tie Rods* kg-m 5.5
Steering Post/Chassis* ft-lb 30
kg-m 4.2 Steering Post/Suspension ft-lb 40
Mounting Bracket* kg-m 5.5
Steering Support/Chassis** ft-lb 20
kg-m 2.8 Drag Link/Steering Arm** ft-lb 12
kg-m 1.7
Tie Rod (Center)/Steering Arm* ft-lb 40
kg-m 5.5 Shock Absorber/Shock ft-lb 45
Mounting Frame kg-m 6.2
* w/Green Loctite #609
** w/Blue Loctite #243
Upper Bearing Bracket/
Support Plate**
ft-lb
kg-m
8
1.1
7
Shock Absorber/Spindle ft-lb 45
kg-m 6.2
Suspension Mounting Bracket/ ft-lb 12
Chassis (Lower) kg-m 1.7
Suspension Mounting Bracket/ ft-lb 30
Chassis (Upper) kg-m 4.2
Steering Support Plate/ ft-lb 8
Steering Support kg-m 1.1
Shock Mount Frame/ ft-lb 8
Suspension Mounting Bracket kg-m 1.1
Shock Mount Frame/ ft-lb 15
Front Upper Frame kg-m 2.1
Spindle Retainer/Spindle** ft-lb 13
kg-m 1.8
Rear Bumper/Heat Exchanger** ft-lb 25
kg-m 3.5
* w/Green Loctite #609
** w/Blue Loctite #243

7-65
 Torque Specifications
(General Bolts)

Thread Torque
Type of Bolt Diameter
(mm) kg-m ft-lb
(Conventional or 5 0.2-0.4 1.5-3.0
4 Marked Bolt)
6 0.4-0.7 3.0-5.0
8 1.0-1.6 7.0-11.5
10 2.2-3.5 16.0-25.5
(7 Marked Bolt) 5 0.3-0.6 2.0-4.5
6 0.8-1.2 6.0-8.5
8 1.8-2.8 13.0-20.0
10 4.0-6.0 29.0-43.5

7-66
SECTION 8 — DRIVE TRAIN
AND BRAKE SYSTEMS

TABLE OF
CONTENTS

Drive System Specifications.................................... 8-2

Torque Specifications .............................................. 8-6
Drive System Components ..................................... 8-7
Arctic Cat Cam Arms............................................... 8-9
Chain Case Performance Calibrations .................. 8-12
Gear Case Performance Calibrations
(ACT Drive - Crossfire/F-Series/M-Series) ........ 8-14
Chains & Sprockets............................................... 8-15
Arctic Cat Drive Belt Dimension Chart .................. 8-16
Arctic Cat Drive Belt Replacement Chart .............. 8-17
Drive Clutch/Driven Pulley-Related
Specifications..................................................... 8-18
Drive Train and Brake Systems ............................. 8-19
Drive Belt............................................................... 8-19
Drive Clutch........................................................... 8-19
Roller Driven Pulley (STD) .................................... 8-22
Drive Clutch/Driven Pulley (STD) .......................... 8-27
ACT Roller Driven Pulley
(Crossfire/F-Series/M-Series) ............................ 8-29
Drive Clutch/Driven Pulley
(Crossfire/F-Series/M-Series) ............................ 8-34 8
Removing/Installing Drive Belt
(ACT Roller Driven Pulley) ................................. 8-35
Drive Train/Brake Disc (Standard w/Reverse) ....... 8-35
Drive Train/Brake Disc (Standard w/o Reverse) .... 8-43
Drive Train/Brake Disc (F-Series).......................... 8-48
Drive Train/Brake Disc (Crossfire/M-Series).......... 8-61
Chain Adjuster....................................................... 8-75
Brake System (Hydraulic)...................................... 8-78
Brake Lever/Master Cylinder Assembly
(Hydraulic System - STD) .................................. 8-92
Brake Lever/Master Cylinder Assembly
(ACT/Panther 570) ............................................. 8-94
Brake System (Mechanical/Quick-Adjust) ............. 8-95
Brake Control (Mechanical/Quick-Adjust) ........... 8-102
Troubleshooting Drive Clutch/Driven Pulley ........ 8-105
Troubleshooting Drive Belt .................................. 8-106
Troubleshooting Hydraulic Brake System............ 8-107

8-1
 Drive System
Specifications

DRIVE
DRIVE SPRING CAM ARM DRIVEN PULLEY
MODEL ALTITUDE CLUTCH
P/N P/N COLOR P/N GRAMS P/N SPRING COLOR
Bearcat 570 0-5000 0746-166 0646-147 Yellow/Green 0746-749 65.0 0726-230 0148-227 Yellow
5-9000 - - - 0746-678 55.0 - - -
9-Over - - - - - - - -
Panther 370 0-5000 0746-168 0646-149 Red 0746-771 44.0 0726-211 0648-012 Blue
5-9000 - 0646-147 Yellow/Green - - - - -
9-Over - - - 0746-772 42.0 - 0148-227 Yellow
Panther 570 0-5000 0746-168 0646-149 Red 0746-786 63.0 0726-243 0148-227 Yellow
5-9000 - - - 0746-678 55.0 - - -
9-Over - 0646-147 Yellow/Green 0746-663 52.0 - - -
Z 370 0-5000 0746-168 0646-149 Red 0746-771 44.0 0726-211 0648-012 Blue
5-9000 - 0646-147 Yellow/Green - - - 0148-227 Yellow
9-Over - - - 0746-772 42.0 - - -
Z 570 0-5000 0746-168 0646-149 Red 0746-786 63.0 0726-243 0148-227 Yellow
5-9000 - - - 0746-678 55.0 - - -
9-Over - 0646-147 Yellow/Green 0746-663 52.0 - - -

8-2
 Drive System
Specifications

DRIVE
TORQUE BRACKET GEAR CHAIN ENGAGEMENT PEAK
MODEL ALTITUDE BELT
RATIO RPM RPM
P/N DEGREE PITCH P/N P/N
Bearcat 570 0-5000 0648-014 49° 18/44 72 1602-042 0627-013 3000 71-7300
5-9000 0648-126 53°/51° - - - - - -
9-Over - - - - - - - -
Panther 370 0-5000 0648-222 51° 18/44 72 1602-042 0627-021 3800 7200
5-9000 0648-014 49° - - - - - -
9-Over - - - - - - - -
Panther 570 0-5000 0648-125 51°/49° 19/39 70 1602-041 0627-021 3500 71-7300
5-9000 - - - - - - - -
9-Over - - - - - - - -
Z 370 0-5000 0148-222 51° 18/44 72 0107-372 0627-021 3800 7200
5-9000 0648-014 49° - - - - 4200 -
9-Over - - - - - - - -
Z 570 0-5000 0648-125 51°/49° 19/39 70 1602-041 0627-021 3800 71-7300
5-9000 0648-002 - - - - - - -
9-Over - - - - - - - -

8-3
 Drive System
Specifications
DRIVE
DRIVE SPRING CAM ARM DRIVEN PULLEY
MODEL ALTITUDE CLUTCH
P/N P/N COLOR P/N GRAMS P/N SPRING COLOR
Crossfire 500 0-3000 0746-195 0646-149 Red 0746-702 58.0 0726-268 0648-732 Green
3-6000 - - - 0746-668 55.0 - - -
6-9000 - - - 0746-663 52.0 - - -
9-Over - - - 0746-792 47.0 - - -
Crossfire 600 0-3000 0746-416 0646-229 Yellow/White 0746-671 70.0 0726-261 0648-774 Orange
3-6000 - - - 0746-670 65.0 - - -
6-9000 - - - 0746-694 63.0 - - -
9-Over - - - 0746-669 60.0 - - -
Crossfire 800 0-3000 0746-192 0646-229 Yellow/White 0746-672 75.0 0726-227 0648-774 Orange
3-6000 - - - 0746-671 70.0 - - -
6-9000 - - - 0746-703 68.0 - - -
9-Over - - - 0746-670 65.0 - - -
Crossfire 1000 0-3000 0746-412 0646-229 Yellow/White 0746-671 70.0 0726-266 0648-774 Orange
3-6000 - - - 0746-695 67.0 - - -
6-9000 - - - 0746-694 63.0 - - -
9-Over - - - 0746-702 58.0 - - -
F5 0-5000 0746-191 0646-149 Red 0746-702 58.0 0726-268 0648-732 Green
5-9000 - - - 0746-663 52.0 - - -
9-Over - - - 0746-792 47.0 - - -
F6 0-5000 0746-416 0646-229 Yellow/White 0746-671 70.0 0726-268 0648-774 Orange
5-9000 - - - 0746-694 63.0 - - -
9-Over - - - 0746-669 60.0 - - -
F8 0-5000 0746-192 0646-229 Yellow/White 0746-715 77.0 0726-267 0648-774 Orange
5-9000 - - - 0746-716 73.0 - - -
9-Over - - - 0746-695 67.0 - - -
F1000 0-5000 0746-412 0646-229 Yellow/White 0746-671 70.0 0726-269 0648-774 Orange
5-9000 - - - 0746-793 63.0 - - -
9-Over - - - 0746-702 58.0 - - -
0-3000 - - - 0746-671 70.0 - - -
3-6000 - - - 0746-670 65.0 - - -
M6* 6-9000 0746-416 0646-229 Yellow/White 0746-694 63.0 0726-264 0648-774 Orange
9-Over - - - 0746-669 60.0 - - -
0-3000 - - - 0746-672 75.0 - - -
3-6000 - - - 0746-671 70.0 - - -
M8* 6-9000 0746-412 0646-229 Yellow/White 0746-703 68.0 0726-239 0648-774 Orange
9-Over - - - 0746-670 65.0 - - -
0-3000 - - - 0746-672 75.0 - - -
3-6000 - - - 0746-671 70.0 - - -
M1000/Sno Pro* 6-9000 0746-412 0646-229/ Yellow/White 0746-669 60.0 0726-239 0648-774/ Orange
0646-379T 0648-776T
9-Over - - - 0746-670 65.0 - - -
* Initially set up at the factory for operation between 6000-9000 feet.
T=Titanium

8-4
 DRIVE SYSTEM
SPECIFICATIONS

TORQUE TRANSFER INPUT DRIVE

RATIO ENGAGE- PEAK
MODEL ALTITUDE BRACKET GEAR GEAR BELT
MENT RPM RPM
P/N DEGREE P/N T P/N T P/N
Crossfire 500 0-3000 0748-679 42°/36° 0702-853 66/34 0702-686 54 54/66 0627-046 3600 78-8000
3-6000 - - - - - - - - 3800 -
6-9000 0748-662 36° - - - - - - 4600 78-8000
9-Over - - - - - - - - 4800 -
Crossfire 600 0-3000 0748-644 46°/40° 0702-848 60/34 0702-691 60 60/60 0627-046 3800 78-8000
3-6000 - - - - - - - - - -
6-9000 0748-622 36° - - - - - - - -
9-Over - - - - - - - - 4200 -
Crossfire 800 0-3000 0748-644 46°/40° 0702-848 60/34 0702-691 60 60/60 0627-046 3600 78-8100
3-6000 - - - - - - - - 3800 -
6-9000 0748-662 36° - - - - - - 4600 -
9-Over - - - - - - - - 4800 -
Crossfire 1000 0-3000 0748-689 38° 0702-872 55/34 0702-696 65 65/55 0627-060 3600 78-8000
3-6000 - - - - - - - - 3800 -
6-9000 0748-662 36° - - - - - - 3800 78-8000
9-Over - - - - - - - - 4000 -
F5 0-5000 0748-679 42°/36° 0702-852 66/34 0702-686 54 54/66 0627-044 4200 78-8000
5-9000 0748-662 36° - - - - - - - -
9-Over - - - - - - - - 4500 -
F6 0-5000 0748-664 46°/40° 0702-847 60/34 0702-693 62 62/58 0627-046 4200 78-8000
5-9000 0748-622 36° 0702-709 60/34 0702-691 60 60/60 - - -
9-Over - - - - - - - - 4500 -
F8 0-5000 0748-664 46°/40° 0702-843 58/34 0702-693 62 62/58 0627-046 4000 78-8100
5-9000 0748-622 36° 0702-709 60/34 - - - - 4200 -
9-Over - - - - - - - - 4300 -
F1000 0-5000 0748-689 38° 0702-723 54/34 0702-697 66 66/54 0627-060 4000 73-7500
5-9000
9-Over
0748-662
-
36°
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
60/60
-
-
-
4200
4300
-
-
8
0-3000 0648-764 44°/40° - - - - - - 3800 78-8000

M6* 3-6000 - - - - - - - - 4000 -

6-9000 0648-765 36° 0602-779 63/34 0702-688 57 57/63 0627-046 4000 78-8000
9-Over - - - - - - - - 4200 -
0-3000 0648-764 44°/40° - - - - - - 3600 78-8000

M8* 3-6000 - - - - - - - - 3800 -

6-9000 0648-765 36° 0702-779 63/24 0702-688 57 57/63 0627-046 3800 78-8000
9-Over - - - - - - - - 4000 -
0-3000 0648-764 44°/40° - - - - - - 3600 73-7500

M1000* 3-6000 - - - - - - - - 3800 -

6-9000 0648-765 36° 0702-848 60/34 0702-691 60 60/60 0627-046 3800 73-7500
9-Over - - - - - - - - 4000 -
* Initially set up at the factory for operation between 6000-9000 feet.

8-5
 „ NOTE: STD refers to chain case drive models;
Torque Specifications ACT refers to gear case drive models.

ITEM TORQUE ITEM TORQUE

Drive Clutch ft-lb 55 Chain Case Drain Plug ft-lb 35
(w/Oiled Threads - 1000 cc) kg-m 7.6 kg-m 4.8

Spider*** ft-lb 250 Shift Linkage Arm (STD) ft-lb 25

kg-m 34.5 kg-m 3.5

Spider Retainer Nut*** ft-lb 85 Brake Caliper/Chain Case* ft-lb 30

kg-m 11.8 kg-m 4.2

Drive Clutch Cover ft-lb 10 Flange Plate - STD (Lower) ft-lb 15

kg-m 1.4 kg-m 2.1

Cam Arm Pin Lock Nut ft-lb 10 Flange Plate - STD (Upper) ft-lb 11
kg-m 1.4 kg-m 1.5

Drive Clutch/Ring Gear Damper** ft-lb 22 Torque Bracket Cover (ACT) ft-lb 5.5
kg-m 3.0 kg-m 0.75

Driven Pulley* (STD) ft-lb 24 Movable Sheave (ACT) ft-lb 5.5

kg-m 3.3 kg-m 0.75

Driven Pulley (ACT) ft-lb 32 Speedometer Sensor Bracket (ACT) ft-lb 17

kg-m 4.4 kg-m 2.4

Driven Pulley Roller Plate (STD) ft-lb 20 Gear Case/Chassis ft-lb 20 (5/16-in.)
kg-m 2.8 kg-m 2.8

Torque Bracket (STD) ft-lb 7.5 Brake Caliper Housing/Chassis ft-lb 20

kg-m 1.5 (ACT) kg-m 2.8

Chain Case Top Sprocket** ft-lb 40 Outside Caliper Housing/Inside Cal- ft-lb 16.5
kg-m 5.5 iper Housing (ACT) kg-m 2.3

Chain Case Bottom Sprocket** (w/ ft-lb 35 Gear Case Cover ft-lb 11
Reverse) kg-m 4.8 kg-m 1.5

Chain Case Bottom Sprocket* (w/o ft-lb 35 Gear Case Drain Plug ft-lb 30
Reverse) kg-m 4.8 kg-m 4.2

Reverse Gear* (STD) ft-lb 15 Driveshaft/Output Shaft Cap Screw ft-lb 70

kg-m 2.1 kg-m 9.7

Chain Tensioner Arm* (STD) ft-lb 8 Driveshaft/Brake Disc Retaining Nut ft-lb 120
kg-m 1.1 (ACT) kg-m 16.6

Chain Case/Tunnel ft-lb 15 * w/Blue Loctite #243

kg-m 2.1 ** w/Green Loctite #609
Chain Case Cover ft-lb 12-15 ***w/Green Loctite #620
kg-m 1.7-2.1

8-6
 Drive System Components
Below is a list of Arctic Drive Clutch and Driven Pulley components that are available through the Arctic Cat Ser-
vice Parts Department. This information will be useful when doing any fine-tuning on the drive system.

SPRINGS - ARCTIC DRIVEN DRIVEN CAMS (Torque Brackets)

p/n Color Rate @ 1 7/16 in. p/n Degree p/n Degree
0748-025** Green 157 lb 0148-180 45 0648-681 62/50
0648-732** Green 280 lb 0148-222 51 0648-682 58/52
0648-693** White 260 lb 0648-001 52/44 0648-683 58/50
0648-718** White 260 lb 0648-002 53 0648-694** 50/36
0648-674* Red/White 105 lb 0648-005 55 0648-696 66/50/0.27 66/52/0.27
0648-662** Platinum 180 lb 0648-006 57 0648-719 68/42/0.34 68/44/0.32
0148-227 Yellow 92 lb 0648-011 48/44 0648-727** 50/38
0648-012 Blue 79 lb 0648-014 49 0648-729** 48/42
0648-010 White 58 lb 0648-016 57/50 0648-730** 44/40
0148-176 Black 42 lb 0648-026 42 0648-731** 46/40
0648-702 Red/Black 42 lb 0648-025 47 0648-733** 46/38
0648-114** Red/White 116 lb 0648-024 55/53 0648-764** 44/40
0646-379**** Yellow/White 285 lb 0648-107* 57/50 0648-765** 36
0648-774** Orange 280 lb 0648-125 51/49 0748-622*** 36
0648-776*** Orange 280 lb 0648-126 53/51 0748-628*** 50/36
* Titanium 0648-448** 36 0748-636*** 44/40
** ACT Driven @1 5/8 in. 0648-655 70/35 0748-637*** 48/42
***ACT Driven @ 1 5/8 in. (Titanium)
0648-656 62/54 0748-648*** 50/38
****ACT Driven @ 1 1/3 in. (Titanium)
0648-679 50/36 0748-653*** 42/36
ARCTIC CAT DRIVE CLUTCH SPRING CHART 0648-681 62/50 0748-689*** 38
Rate @ Rate @ 0648-682 58/52 0748-696*** 50/36
p/n Color
2 9/16 in. 1 5/16 in.
0648-683 58/50
LIGHT 0646-148 53 lb 224 lb Red/Blue
0646-150 72 lb 188 lb Silver
0646-149 74 lb 228 lb Red * Base is 0.100 thicker than that of p/n 0648-016.
0646-376
0646-147
75 lb
114 lb
275 lb
267 lb
Gold
Yellow/Green
**ACT Driven (10.0 in.)
***ACT Driven (10.4 in.)
8
0646-373* 114 lb 267 lb Yellow/Green
0646-155 121 lb 240 lb Purple
0646-229 122 lb 285 lb Yellow/White
0646-248 143 lb 290 lb Orange/White
0646-379 122 lb 285 lb Yellow/White
0646-684 158 lb 290 lb Black
* Titanium
„NOTE: The Arctic Cat drive clutch spring has a
smaller O.D. than the Comet and cannot be inter-
changed.

8-7
 Drive System Components

ARCTIC CAT DRIVE CLUTCH CAM ARMS ARCTIC CAT DRIVE CLUTCH CAM ARMS
p/n Grams p/n Grams p/n Grams p/n Grams
0646-100 52.5 0746-569 48.5 0746-610 50.0 0746-671 70.0**
0646-162 44.0 0746-570 47.0 0746-611 47.0 0746-672 75.0
0646-163 53.5 0746-574 48.5 0746-612 46.65 0746-673 80.0**
0646-166 39.5 0746-576 46.0 0746-614 64.0 0746-676 70.0**
0646-199 46.5 0746-577 42.0 0746-615 62.0 0746-687 57.0**
0746-500 54.0 0746-578 51.5 0746-616 66.0 0746-689 69.0**
0746-501 48.5 0746-579 46.5 0746-617 60.0 0746-690 47.0**
0746-502 44.5 0746-580 47.0 0746-618 51.5 0746-691 44.0**
0746-503 41.0 0746-581 52.5 0746-619 47.0 0746-692 50.0**
0746-523 47.0 0746-582 48.5 0746-620 60.0 0746-694 63.0**
0746-524 48.5 0746-583 46.5 0746-627 84.8** 0746-695 67.0**
0746-525 44.0 0746-584 45.0 0746-629 75.0** 0746-699 66.0**
0746-526 42.0 0746-585 49.0 0746-633 68.0 0746-701 49.0**
0746-527 50.5 0746-586 45.0* 0746-634 70.5 0746-702 58.0**
0746-529 49.5* 0746-587 50.0 0746-635 58.0 0746-703 68.0**
0746-531 44.5 0746-588 54.5 0746-636 63.0 0746-704 51.0**
0746-533 47.5* 0746-589 45.0 0746-638 47.5 0746-708 51.0**
0746-534 51.5* 0746-590 40.5* 0746-640 71.5 0746-710 72.0**
0746-536 45.0* 0746-591 44.0 0746-642 50.5 0746-713 48.0**
0746-538 49.5 0746-592 52.0 0746-645 52.0 0746-715 77.0**
0746-539 53.0 0746-593 45.5 0746-646 57.0 0746-716 73.0**
0746-540 46.5 0746-594 44.5 0746-647 49.0 0746-742 83.5**
0746-546 48.0 0746-595 41.5 0746-650 67.0 0746-744 50.0**
0746-547 50.0 0746-596 44.5 0746-653 63.5 0746-748 46.0**
0746-549 46.0 0746-597 43.5 0746-655 56.5 0746-749 65.0**
0746-559 55.5 0746-598 44.0 0746-658 49.0 0746-771 44.0**
0746-560 55.0 0746-600 50.0 0746-661 52.0** 0746-772 42.0**
0746-561 50.0 0746-602 42.5 0746-662 52.0** 0746-786 63.0**
0746-562 42.0 0746-604 41.5 0746-663 52.0** 0746-787 44.0**
0746-563 44.5 0746-605 52.0 0746-666 55.0** 0746-788 47.5**
0746-564 45.5 0746-606 48.4 0746-668 55.0** 0746-789 42.0**
0746-565 43.5 0746-607 46.0 0746-669 60.0** 0746-792 47.0**
0746-566 48.0 0746-608 47.5 0746-670 65.0** 0746-793 63.0**
0746-568 50.0 0746-609 52.0 * Notched Cam Arm
** w/Set Screw

8-8
Arctic Cat Cam Arms

AR-CAM

8-9
 Arctic Cat Cam Arms

99-CAM

8-10
Arctic Cat Cam Arms

04-CAM

8-11
 Chain Case Performance Calibrations
(8-Tooth Drive Sprockets)

CHAIN CASE PERFORMANCE

RPM (Engine)
SPECIFICATIONS*
SPROCKETS RATIO CHAIN PITCH 7400 7800 8000 8200 8700
18/44 0.409 72 76.3 80.4 82.5 84.5 86.6
19/44 0.432 74 80.5 84.9 87.1 89.2 91.4
19/43 0.442 72 82.4 86.9 89.1 91.3 93.5
20/44 0.455 74 84.8 89.3 91.6 93.9 96.2
19/41 0.463 72 86.4 91.1 93.4 95.8 98.1
20/40 0.500 72 93.2 98.3 100.8 103.3 105.8
22/42 0.524 74 97.7 103.0 105.6 108.2 110.9
22/41 0.537 74 100.1 105.5 108.2 110.9 113.6
21/39 0.538 72 100.4 105.8 108.6 111.3 114.0
23/40 0.575 72 107.2 113.0 115.9 118.8 121.7
24/40 0.600 74 111.9 117.9 121.0 124.0 127.0
19/40 0.475 70 88.6 93.4 95.8 98.2 100.5
* USE AS A GUIDE ONLY RPM x Ratio x 0.0225 x 1.12 = MPH
(9-Tooth Drive Sprockets)

CHAIN CASE PERFORMANCE

RPM (Engine)
SPECIFICATIONS*
Sprockets Ratio Chain Pitch 6000 7000 8000 9000 10,000
24/35 0.686 70 98.2 114.6 130.9 147.3 163.7
22/33 0.667 68 95.5 111.4 127.3 143.2 159.1
21/33 0.636 68 91.0 106.2 121.4 136.6 151.7
24/39 0.615 72 88.0 102.7 117.4 132.0 146.7
22/37 0.595 70 85.2 99.4 113.6 127.7 141.9
20/35 0.571 68 81.7 95.4 109.0 122.6 136.2
21/37 0.568 70 81.3 94.9 108.4 122.0 135.5
19/35 0.543 68 77.7 90.7 103.6 116.6 129.5
20/39 0.513 70 73.4 85.7 97.9 110.1 122.4
21/41 0.512 72 73.3 85.5 97.7 109.9 122.1
20/41 0.488 72 69.9 81.5 93.1 104.8 116.4
18/37 0.486 68 69.6 81.2 92.8 104.3 115.9
16/33 0.484 66 69.3 80.8 92.4 103.9 115.5
19/41 0.463 72 66.3 77.3 88.4 99.4 110.5
18/39 0.461 70 66.0 77.0 88.0 99.0 110.0
17/37 0.459 68 65.7 76.6 87.6 98.5 109.5
19/59 0.487 74 69.7 81.3 92.9 104.6 116.2
19/40 0.475 70 68.0 79.3 90.7 102.0 113.3
22/40 0.550 72 78.7 91.8 105.0 118.1 131.2
22/41 0.536 74 76.7 89.5 102.3 115.1 127.9
23/40 0.575 72 82.3 96.0 109.7 123.5 137.2
23/44 0.522 74 74.7 87.2 99.6 112.1 124.5
26/41 0.634 74 90.7 105.9 121.0 136.1 151.2
* USE AS A GUIDE ONLY RPM x Ratio x 0.0213 x 1.12 = MPH

8-12
 Chain Case Performance Calibrations
(10-Tooth Drive Sprockets)

CHAIN CASE PERFORMANCE

RPM (Engine)
SPECIFICATIONS*
Sprockets Ratio Chain Pitch 7400 7800 8000 8200 8400 8700
18/44 0.409 72 80.3 84.6 86.8 89.0 91.1 94.4
19/44 0.432 74 84.7 89.3 91.6 93.9 96.2 99.6
19/43 0.442 72 86.7 91.4 93.8 96.1 98.4 102.0
20/44 0.455 74 89.2 94.0 96.4 98.9 101.3 104.9
19/41 0.463 72 90.9 95.9 98.3 100.8 103.2 106.9
20/40 0.500 72 98.1 103.4 106.1 108.7 111.4 115.4
22/42 0.524 74 102.8 108.4 111.1 113.9 116.7 120.9
22/41 0.537 74 105.3 111.0 113.8 116.7 119.5 123.8
21/39 0.538 72 105.7 111.4 114.2 117.1 120.0 124.2
23/40 0.575 72 112.8 118.9 122.0 125.0 128.1 132.7
24/40 0.600 74 117.8 124.1 127.3 130.5 133.7 138.4
19/40 0.475 70 93.2 98.3 100.8 103.3 105.8 109.6
* USE AS A GUIDE ONLY RPM x Ratio x 0.02368 x 1.12 = MPH

8-13
 Gear Case Performance Calibrations
(ACT Drive - Crossfire/F-Series/M-Series)

Engine RPM
Drive Sprocket Gear Ratio 6200 6400 6600 6800 7000 7200 7400 7600
Snowmobile Speed (mph)
66 54 109 113 116 120 123 127 130 134
9 Tooth 63 57 99 102 105 108 111 115 118 121
(2.52 in. pitch) 60 60 89 92 95 98 101 104 107 109
57 63 81 83 86 89 91 94 96 99
66 54 121 125 129 133 137 141 145 149
10 Tooth 63 57 110 113 117 120 124 127 131 134
(2.52 in. pitch) 60 60 99 102 106 109 112 115 118 122
57 63 90 93 96 98 101 104 107 110
66 54 116 119 123 127 130 134 138 142
8 Tooth 63 57 104 108 111 115 118 121 125 128
(3.0 in. pitch) 60 60 95 98 101 104 107 110 113 116
57 63 86 88 91 94 97 99 102 105

Engine RPM
Drive Sprocket Gear Ratio 7800 8000 8200 8400 8600 8800 9000
Snowmobile Speed (mph)
66 54 137 141 144 148 151 155 158
9 Tooth 63 57 124 127 131 134 137 140 143
(2.52 in. pitch)
60 60 112 115 118 121 124 127 130
57 63 102 104 107 109 112 115 117
66 54 153 156 160 164 168 172 176
10 Tooth 63 57 138 142 145 149 152 156 159
(2.52 in. pitch)
60 60 125 128 131 134 138 141 144
57 63 113 116 119 122 125 127 130
66 54 145 149 153 156 160 164 168
8 Tooth 63 57 131 135 138 142 145 148 152
(3.0 in. pitch)
60 60 119 122 125 128 131 134 137
57 63 108 110 113 116 119 121 124

8-14
 CHAINS & SPROCKETS
For reference, all spockets and chains available from Arctic Cat are listed below.
„NOTE: Added to the list are wide 15 link chains with corresponding wide sprockets. These chains and
sprockets are 3 mm (1/8 in.) wider than the 13 link chains and corresponding sprockets and approximately
25% stronger.
UPPER SPROCKET (w/11 Link Chain) WIDE SPROCKET (w/13 Link Chain) (UPPER)
NUMBER OF TEETH P/N NUMBER OF TEETH P/N
15 0107-217 18 0602-445
16 0107-340 18 1602-378 (cut steel)
17 0107-218 19 0602-444
18 0107-341 20 0602-456
19 0107-219 21 0602-494
20 0107-409 22 0602-455
21 0107-408 23 0602-452
22 0107-301 24 0602-446
23 0602-363 19* 0602-470
24 0107-508 WIDE SPROCKET (w/15 Link Chain) (UPPER)
LOWER SPROCKET (w/11 Link Chain) 20 0602-967
33 0107-513 18 0602-995
35 0107-325 19 1602-383 (powder metal)
35* 0702-074 19 0602-973
37 0107-407 23 1602-118
39 0107-220 24 0602-974
39* 0702-072 26 1602-193
40 0107-903
WIDE SPROCKET (w/13 Link Chain) (LOWER)
41 0107-369
35 0602-457
STANDARD CHAIN (11 Link) 39 0602-451
PITCH P/N 40 0602-453
64 0107-322 39* 0702-170
66 0107-358 39 (Light) 1602-087
68 0107-215 40* 0702-393
70 0107-216 41 1602-119
70* 0602-371 42 0602-909
72 0107-372 43 1602-333 (cut steel)
WIDE CHAIN (13 Link) 43 1602-394 (powder metal)
68 0602-495 44 0602-812

8
70 1602-041 44* 0602-813
72 1602-042 WIDE SPROCKET (w/15 Link Chain) (LOWER)
WIDE CHAIN (15 Link) 35* 0602-142
68 1602-036 39* 0702-370
70 0602-968 39 0602-975
72 0602-972 40* 0702-394
74 1602-037 44* 0702-383
70** 1602-578 35 1602-603
72** 1602-579 39 1602-604
74** 1602-550 40 1602-605
* Reverse and 2-Speed Sprocket
**These are Borg Warner chains and they must be used
with Borg Warner sprockets only or damage to the
chains or sprockets will result.

8-15
 Arctic Cat Drive Belt Dimension Chart

BELT P/N LENGTH WIDTH

*0627-001 43 5/8 ± 3/16 inch 1 3/8 inch
*0627-002 43 3/8 ± 3/16 inch 1 3/8 inch
*0627-004 43 5/16 ± 3/16 inch 1 3/8 inch
*0627-006 43 5/8 ± 3/16 inch 1 3/8 inch
*0627-008 45 3/4 ± 3/16 inch 1 3/8 inch
**0627-009 47 3/4 ± 3/16 inch 1 3/8 inch
***0627-010 47 3/4 ± 3/16 inch 1 3/8 inch
**0627-011 45 3/4 ± 3/16 inch 1 3/8 inch
**0627-012 47 3/4 ± 3/16 inch 1 3/8 inch
0627-013 49 ± 3/16 inch 1 7/16 inch
0627-014 49 ± 3/16 inch 1 7/16 inch
***0627-020 47 3/4 ± 3/16 inch 1 13/32 inch
**0627-021 47 3/4 ± 3/16 inch 1 13/32 inch
***0627-031 47 3/4 ± 3/16 inch 1 13/32 inch
***0627-032 44 9/16 ± 3/16 inch 1 15/32 inch
***0627-033 50 5/16 ± 3/16 inch 1 7/16 inch
***0627-034 44 ± 3/16 inch 1 13/32 inch
***0627-035 47 3/4 ± 3/16 inch 1 13/32 inch
***0627-036 45 ± 3/16 inch 1 7/16 inch
**0627-044 44 11/16 ± 3/16 inch 1 15/32 inch
**0627-045 45 7/32 ± 3/16 inch 1 15/32 inch
***0627-046 46 ± 3/16 inch 1 29/64 inch
***0627-047 43 17/32 ± 3/16 inch 1 29/64 inch
***0627-048 47 ± 3/16 inch 1 15/32 inch
***0627-049 48 5/32 ± 3/16 inch 1 15/32 inch
* High Performance Belt **Double-Cog High Performance Belt ***Double-Cog High Performance Belt w/Hard Compound
****Double-Cog High Performance Belt w/High COF Compound
„NOTE: The difference between Drive Belt (p/n 0627-010) and Drive Belt (p/n 0627-020) is width. If one of
these belts is substituted for the other, the driven pulley will need a shim added or a shim removed to
obtain correct belt deflection. Both of these belts are constructed of “hard compound” and should be used
only when recommended. If these belts are used when a softer compound belt is recommended (such as a
p/n 0627-012 or 0627-021), the engine will run at a higher RPM. The difference between Drive Belt (p/n 0627-
046) and Drive Belt (p/n 0627-060) is the hardness. The Drive Belt (p/n 0627-060) is more flexible, and if
used in place of Drive Belt (p/n 0627-046), the engine will run at a lower RPM.

8-16
 Arctic Cat Drive Belt Replacement Chart
1997 2000 2005
Puma, Puma Deluxe, Bearcat 340............................ 0627-013 Bearcat 570 ............................0627-013
Puma 2-Up ......................... 0627-012 Bearcat 440 I/440 II/ Firecat 500 Models .................0627-034
Jag, Jag Deluxe ..................... 0627-012 Wide Track .......................... 0627-014 Firecat 600/700 Models ..........0627-034
Panther, Panther L/C.............. 0627-012 Pantera Models ...................... 0627-020 King Cat..................................0627-020
Z440, ZL440 .......................... 0627-012 Panther 340/440..................... 0627-012 M-Series .................................0627-036
Bearcat 340 ........................... 0627-013 Panther 550............................ 0627-021 Pantera 550 ............................0627-021
Bearcat 440 & 550 ................. 0627-014 Powder Special Models.......... 0627-020 Pantera 600 EFI......................0627-020
Cougar, Cougar M/C .............. 0627-012 Thundercat Models ................ 0627-020 Panther Models ......................0627-021
Pantera .................................. 0627-012 Triple Touring 600................... 0627-020 Sabercat 500 ..........................0627-020
EXT EFI Models..................... 0627-012 Z Models ................................ 0627-021 Sabercat 600/700 Models.......0627-035
Powder Special EFI................ 0627-012 ZL 440/550 ............................. 0627-021 Z Models.................................0627-021
Thundercat, ZRT 800, ZL 500/580/600/700 ............... 0627-020 ZR 900 Models .......................0627-032
ZRT 600 ............................. 0627-010 ZR Models.............................. 0627-020
ZR 580, ZR440 ...................... 0627-010 ZRT Models............................ 0627-020 2006
EXT 600, Powder Extreme..... 0627-010 Bearcat 570 ............................0627-013
Powder 580 Carb ................... 0627-010 2001 Crossfire Models.....................0627-036
Bearcat W/T ........................... 0627-014 Firecat 500 Models .................0627-044
1998 Mountain Cat Models ............. 0627-020 Firecat 600 EFI r.....................0627-020
Jag 340, Panther 340............. 0627-012 Pantera Models ...................... 0627-020 Firecat 600/700 Models
Jag 440, Jag 440 DLX ........... 0627-012 Panther 370 Models ............... 0627-013 w/o Reverse ........................0627-044
Z 440, Panther 440 ................ 0627-012 Panther 440 Models ............... 0627-012 Firecat 700 EFI r.....................0627-035
Panther 550 ........................... 0627-021 Panther 550............................ 0627-021 King Cat Models .....................0627-020
Bearcat 340 ........................... 0627-013 Thundercat ............................. 0627-020 M-Series Models ....................0627-036
Bearcat 440, Triple Touring 600................... 0627-020 Panther 370/570 Models ........0627-021
Bearcat Wide Track ............ 0627-014 Z Models ................................ 0627-021 Sabercat 500/600 Models.......0627-020
Cougar, Cougar DLX, ZL Models .............................. 0627-020 Sabercat 700 Models..............0627-035
Cougar M/C ........................ 0627-021 ZR Models.............................. 0627-020 Z Models.................................0627-021
Pantera 580 ........................... 0627-021 ZRT Models............................ 0627-020 ZR 900 EFI Models.................0627-045
Pantera 800 ........................... 0627-020
EXT EFI ................................. 0627-020 2002 2007
EXT EFI DLX ......................... 0627-021 Bearcat W/T ........................... 0627-014 Bearcat 570 ............................0627-013
EXT 600, EXT 600 Touring .... 0627-020 Mountain Cat Models ............. 0627-020 Crossfire 500/600/800 ............0627-046
Powder Special, Pantera 550............................ 0627-021 Crossfire 1000 ........................0627-060
Powder Special EFI ............ 0627-020 Pantera Models (EFI) ............. 0627-020 F5/F6/F8 .................................0627-048
Powder Extreme..................... 0627-020 Panther Models ...................... 0627-021 F1000 .....................................0627-060
Thundercat, Thundercat ............................. 0627-020 M-Series .................................0627-046
Thundercat M/C ................. 0627-020 Z Models ................................ 0627-021 Panther 370/570 .....................0627-021
ZRT 600, ZRT 800 ................. 0627-020 ZL Models .............................. 0627-020 Z 370/570 ...............................0627-021
ZR 600, ZR 600 EFI............... 0627-020 ZR Models.............................. 0627-020
ZL 440.................................... 0627-021 ZRT 600 ................................. 0627-020
ZL 500, ZR 500 ...................... 0627-020
ZR 440 ................................... 0627-020 2003
Firecat Models........................ 0627-020
1999 Mountain Cat Models ............. 0627-020
Jag 340 DLX, Panther 340..... 0627-012 Pantera 550............................ 0627-021
Jag 440, Jag 440 DLX ........... 0627-012 Pantera Models (EFI) ............. 0627-020
Panther 440 ........................... 0627-012 Panther Models ...................... 0627-021
Panther 550 ........................... 0627-021 Z Models ................................ 0627-021
Bearcat 340, Bearcat 440 I .... 0627-013 ZL Models .............................. 0627-020
Bearcat 440 II,
Bearcat Wide Track ............ 0627-014
Pantera 580 EFI ..................... 0627-021
ZR Models.............................. 0627-020
2004
8
Pantera 800 ........................... 0627-020 Bearcat 570............................ 0627-013
Triple Touring 600 .................. 0627-020 Firecat 500 Models................. 0627-020
Powder Special 500 EFI......... 0627-020 Firecat 600/700 Models.......... 0627-031
Powder Special 600 Models... 0627-020 King Cat ................................. 0627-020
Powder Special 700 ............... 0627-020 Mountain Cat Models ............. 0627-020
Thundercat, Pantera 550............................ 0627-021
Thundercat M/C ................. 0627-020 Pantera Models (EFI) ............. 0627-020
Z 370...................................... 0627-021 Panther Models ...................... 0627-021
Z 440...................................... 0627-021 Sabercat 500.......................... 0627-020
ZL 440.................................... 0627-021 Sabercat 600/700 Models ...... 0627-031
ZL 500 Models, Z Models ................................ 0627-021
ZL 600 Models ................... 0627-020
ZR 500 Models ...................... 0627-020
ZR 600 Models ...................... 0627-020
ZR 700 ................................... 0627-020
ZRT 600, ZRT 800 ................. 0627-020

8-17
 Drive Clutch/Driven
Pulley-Related
Specifications

ALIGNMENT ALIGNMENT CENTER-TO-

OFFSET FLOAT
YEAR MODELS BAR - p/n BAR - p/n CENTER
Offset Parallelism cm in. mm in. mm in.
2007 Bearcat Model 0644-428 N/A 30.9 12.20 37.72 1.485 0.762-1.524 0.030-0.060
2007 Panther/Z Models 0644-320 N/A 30.9 12.20 34.67 1.365 0.762-1.524 0.030-0.060
2007 Crossfire/M-Series 0644-427 0644-509 29.2 11.50 42.00 1.655 None* None*
2007 F-Series 0644-496 0644-509 29.2 11.50 32.28 1.507 None* None*

* ! CAUTION
On this snowmobile, do not allow the driven pulley to “float” on the output shaft or damage to the driven
pulley will occur.

8-18
 Drive Train and Drive Clutch
Brake Systems
CHANGING CAM ARMS/SPRINGS
This section has been organized into sub-sections for
servicing drive train and brake systems; however, Removing
some components may vary from model to model. The
technician should use discretion and sound judgment 1. Remove the drive belt.
when removing and installing components. 2. On the three-roller style, remove the cap screw
„NOTE: Some illustrations and photographs used and lock washer securing the drive clutch to the
in this section are used for clarity purposes only crankshaft.
and are not designed to depict actual conditions. 3. On the four-roller style using Drive Clutch Bolt
Tool (p/n 0644-281), remove the 12-mm torxhead
„NOTE: Critical torque specifications are located cap screw and lock washer securing the drive
on page 6 of this section. clutch to the crankshaft.
„NOTE: Before installing the clutch puller, apply
Drive Belt oil to the threads of the puller and a small amount
of grease to the tip of the puller.

The belt dimensions and construction are two factors 4. Using the Clutch Puller (p/n 0644-207) - three-
that influence the performance of the drive system. roller style or (p/n 0644-446) - four-roller style
The two belt dimensions that are important to the per- and a breaker bar and the Drive Clutch Spanner
formance of the snowmobile are the outside circumfer- Wrench (p/n 0644-136), tighten the puller. If the
ence and the width. Both of these dimensions will drive clutch will not release, sharply strike the
influence shifting characteristics. head of the puller. Repeat this step until the clutch
releases.
If the drive belt is longer than specified, the drive
clutch and driven pulley will not have the full shift 5. Remove the drive clutch from the engine compart-
ratio. Also, a too-long drive belt will cause poor accel- ment.
eration and a decrease in top speed.
Disassembling
If the drive belt is shorter than specified, the drive
clutch and driven pulley will have a different shift pat- „NOTE: Note the timing marks on the cover, spi-
tern because they are in different ratios from those for der, and movable sheave. These must be aligned
which they were originally matched. A too-short drive when assembling the drive clutch for balance pur-
belt will cause a loss in performance and a bog on poses.
engagement.
„NOTE: A drive belt that is worn thin may produce
1. Loosen the machine screws securing the cover.
Remove every other cap screw and lock washer
the same effect as one that is too long.

Drive belt construction has an influence on the way the

from the cover; then while firmly holding the
cover, remove the three remaining screws and lock
washers equally.
8
drive clutch and driven pulley will shift and on the
amount of power that will be transmitted through the
system. ONLY ARCTIC CAT DRIVE BELTS
SHOULD BE USED. Different brands of belts may
not have the same construction causing either more
friction or more slippage when the belt is wedged
between the sheaves and, thus, a loss of efficiency.
„NOTE: A stiff belt causes a HP loss to the track.
As a belt warms up, it gets more flexible and trans-
mits power with less HP loss.

FC054

8-19
 „NOTE: Heat must be applied to the cam arm in
order to remove the set screws.

4. After the lock nuts and set screws have been

removed, remove the cam arm pins one at a time
noting the position of the alignment notches for
assembly purposes. Account for the O-rings.

FS264
2. Remove the cover and spring.

0739-038

Cleaning And Inspecting

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, drive clutch
FC055 replacement is necessary.

1. Using parts-cleaning solvent, wash grease, dirt,

and foreign matter off all components; dry with
compressed air.
2. Remove any drive belt dust accumulation from the
stationary sheave, movable sheave, and bushings
using parts-cleaning solvent only.
3. Inspect stationary sheave, movable sheave, spider,
and cover for cracks or imperfections in the cast-
ing.
4. Inspect the cam arm pins for wear or bends.
FS265
5. Inspect the spring for proper compression rate
3. Remove the cam arm pin lock nuts; then using a qualities (see Drive System Components in this
small torch, apply heat to the cam arm set screws section).
to loosen the Loctite used in assembly.
6. Inspect rollers for damage or wear.
Assembling

1. With the head of each cam arm pin positioned

towards the direction of the drive clutch rotation,
install the cam arms.
„NOTE: The drive clutch rotates counterclock-
wise.

2. With the cam arm pin properly positioned, apply

green Loctite #620 to the set screw holes in the
cam arm, install the new set screws (pre-coated
FS001 with Loctite), and tighten securely.

8-20
 739-040A FC091

! CAUTION
It is critical that green Loctite #620 be applied to the
set screw holes in the cam arms or component dam-
age may occur.

3. Secure the cam arm pins with new lock nuts and
tighten to specifications.

! CAUTION
When installing cam arms, always use new lock nuts
and cam arm set screws.
FS267
4. Place the spring and cover into position making
sure the timing mark on the cover is properly ! CAUTION
aligned; then compress the spring and install the
machine screws coated with blue Loctite #243 and Care must be taken when installing the cover not to
lock washers. In a crisscross pattern, tighten damage the bushing.
evenly to specifications.
Installing

„NOTE: Before installing the drive clutch, be sure

to wipe both the crankshaft taper and clutch
mounting taper clean using a clean towel.

1. Place the drive clutch into position on the crank-

shaft and secure with the appropriate cap screw
and lock washer. Tighten to specifications.
„NOTE: On the four-roller style to aid in proper 8
tightening of the drive clutch cap screw, apply oil
to the threads of the cap screw prior to installing.
MS402A
! CAUTION
When installing the drive clutch, do not tighten the
cap screw with any kind of impact tool. Tighten cap
screw using a hand torque wrench only. Failure to
do so could result in stationary sheave damage.

2. Check alignment between the drive clutch and

driven pulley (see appropriate Drive Clutch/
Driven Pulley in this section).

FS266A

8-21
 AF468D SC013D
4. Slide the driven pulley off the driven shaft; then
remove pulley from the engine compartment.
„NOTE: If the driven pulley is tight on the shaft,
pull the driven pulley off using the Driven Pulley
Puller (p/n 0744-023).

5. Remove the key, alignment washers, and stub

shaft from the driven shaft.

MS390
3. Install the drive belt. Check drive belt deflection
(see appropriate Drive Clutch/Driven Pulley in
this section). Secure the belt guard and install the
plug in the belly pan.

! WARNING
Never operate the engine without the belt guard/side
panel secured.
AF120D

4. Either test drive the snowmobile or run the engine

for five minutes; then verify the drive clutch cap DISASSEMBLING
screw torque specification.
1. Scribe a line across all driven pulley components
to ensure correct assembly and pulley balance.
Roller Driven Pulley
(STD)

REMOVING

1. Open the hood; then open the belt guard.

2. Remove the drive belt.
3. Remove the cap screw and washer securing the
driven pulley; then account for and note the posi-
tion of any alignment washers.

SC001D
2. Place the driven pulley on a work fixture so the
roller plate is directed upward.

8-22
 SC002D B459D

„NOTE: To aid in driven pulley servicing, use a roll

of duct tape as a work fixture. The work fixture will
increase the stability of the pulley during the repair
procedure.

3. Remove the three lock nuts securing the roller

plate; then carefully slide the plate off the station-
ary shaft allowing the spring to release tension.

! WARNING
The roller plate is under spring pressure. Care must
be taken when removing the lock nuts to prevent the
B460
plate from ejecting prematurely.
6. Remove the three socket head screws and lock
washers securing the torque bracket (cam) to the
stationary sheave; then remove torque bracket.

4. Remove the spring.

SC003D
8
AI062
7. Place the roller plate on a work fixture (roll of duct
tape, etc.).

B458D
5. Slide the movable sheave off the stationary shaft;
then remove any thrust washers located between
the sheaves noting the position of washers for
SC004D
assembling purposes.

8-23
 8. Using a 1/8-in. punch, remove the spring pin
securing the roller, roller pin, and thrust washer to ! CAUTION
the plate.
Do not use steel wool or a wire brush to clean driven
pulley components. A wire brush or steel wool will
cause the sheaves to be gouged (thus, the drive belt
may not slide properly between sheaves). Decreased
performance and possible accelerated drive belt
wear will result.

2. Inspect the rollers for damage, cracks, or wear.

3. Inspect the sheaves for any gouges, cracks, or
other damage. Also, inspect threaded areas of
sheaves for damaged or stripped threads.
4. Inspect the torque bracket (cam) for cracks or
damage. The ramp portions of the bracket and
SC005D
caps must be free of gouges and damage. Minor
9. Using the Roller Pin Removal Tool (p/n 0644-276) scratches may be repaired using #320 grit wet-or-
from inside the plate, drive the roller pin out of the dry sandpaper.
plate. Account for the pin, thrust washer, and
roller.

B465
5. Inspect spring for distortion, crystallization, or
SC006D
breaks.
6. Inspect the roller plate, rollers, pins, and spring
mounting holes for cracks, damage, or wear.
7. Inspect the roller plate and movable sheave bear-
ings for wear. For each respective bearing, mea-
sure the outside diameter of the shaft and the
inside diameter of the bearing. Compare the read-
ings. Clearance between the shaft and the respec-
tive bearing must not exceed 0.5 mm (0.020 in.). If
the clearance exceeds the specification, the bear-
ing must be replaced.

SC007D

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Using parts-cleaning solvent, wash grease, drive

belt dust, and foreign matter off all components.

B466D

8-24
 ASSEMBLING

1. Place the roller and thrust washer (toward the out-

side of the roller plate) and secure with the roller
pin.
2. Secure the roller, thrust washer, and pin into posi-
tion with the spring pin. Drive the pin in until it is
flush with the plate.

B467

REMOVING BEARINGS

To remove driven pulley bearings, use the Bearing

Removal and Installation Tool (p/n 0644-167) and the
following procedure.

! WARNING
SC012D
Always wear safety glasses when using the bearing
driver.
3. Place the torque bracket (cam) into position on the
„NOTE: To remove the movable sheave bearing, stationary sheave making sure the degree number
heat must be applied around the bearing. on the bracket aligns with the part number on the
stationary sheave. Install the three socket head
1. Place the movable sheave (or roller plate) flat on a screws and lock washers. DO NOT tighten at this
press. time.

2. Using the bearing tool, press the bearing out.

8
AI062
4. Place any thrust washers (as noted during disas-
AF154 sembly) on the stationary sheave shaft.
INSTALLING BEARINGS

„NOTE: Before installing a bearing, apply red Loc-

tite #271 to the outside face of the bearing.

1. Place the movable sheave (or roller plate) flat on a

press.
2. Using the bearing tool, press the bearing into posi-
tion. The bearing must be flush with the outside of
the bearing boss.
3. Wipe off excess Loctite. Allow the Loctite to cure
for 24 hours at room temperature. B460

8-25
 5. Align the scribed line made during disassembly;
then slide the movable sheave onto the stationary
sheave shaft.

SC003D
10. Rotate the movable sheave to ensure free move-
ment without binding.
B459D 11. Rotate the torque bracket (cam) until it is tight;
6. Place the sheaves on a work fixture (roll of duct then using a long hex wrench, tighten the three
tape, etc.). socket-head cap screws (from step 3) securing the
bracket to specifications.
7. Place the spring over the stationary sheave hub
and hook the turned down end of the spring into
the hole in the casting of the stationary sheave.

SC011D

INSTALLING
B458D
8. Place the roller plate over the spring and hook the 1. Slide the alignment washers onto the end of the
turned-up end of the spring in the 3rd hole (stan- driven shaft.
dard spring tension) of the plate.
2. Install the key in the driven shaft keyway; then
9. While holding the sheaves to prevent them from place the stub shaft into the driven pulley. Place
rotating, grasp the roller plate and rotate it approx- the driven pulley on the shaft. Align its keyway
imately 120° clockwise until the mounting holes with the driven shaft keyway.
align; then push the plate into position and install
the three lock nuts. Tighten the lock nuts to speci- „NOTE: A small amount of Loctite Anti-Seize
fications. Thread Compound (p/n 0678-146) applied to the
driven shaft will aid in future driven pulley
„NOTE: The line scribed during disassembly
removal.
should be aligned.
3. Secure the driven pulley by installing any align-
ment washers, the washer, and cap screw (coated
with blue Loctite #243). Tighten the cap screw to
specifications.

8-26
 4. With the bar against the outside edge of the driven
pulley stationary sheave at points A and B, the bar
should just clear the inside edge of the stationary
sheave of the drive clutch and rest on the station-
ary shaft. If the bar does not clear the inside edge
or is more than 1.5 mm (0.060 in.) from the inside
edge, the offset must be corrected.

SC013D
4. Check drive clutch/driven pulley alignment (see
Drive Clutch/Driven Pulley in this section); adjust
as necessary.
5. Install the drive belt and check drive belt deflec-
tion (see Drive Clutch/Driven Pulley in this sec-
tion). Secure the belt guard.
AF465D

Drive Clutch/
Driven Pulley
(STD)

CHECKING OFFSET

If premature drive belt wear is experienced or if the

drive belt turns over, parallelism/offset must be
checked. Also, parallelism/offset must be checked
whenever either the drive clutch or driven pulley is
serviced. To check the parallelism/offset, use the 733-912B
Clutch Alignment Bar (p/n 0644-320) and the follow-
ing procedure.
CORRECTING OFFSET
1. Open the belt guard and remove the drive belt.
1. To correct offset, the driven pulley must be moved
2. Install the clutch alignment bar between the drive laterally on the driven shaft. Remove the cap
clutch sheaves and against the outside edge of the screw and washers securing the driven pulley; then
driven pulley stationary sheave. remove the driven pulley.
3. Allow the alignment bar to rest on the drive clutch „NOTE: If the driven pulley is tight on the driven 8
shaft. shaft, pull the driven pulley off using the Driven
Pulley Puller (p/n 0744-023).

2. To move the driven pulley inward on the shaft,

remove washer(s) as required from behind the pul-
ley.
3. To move the driven pulley outward on the shaft,
add alignment washer(s) as required behind the
driven pulley.
„NOTE: Make sure the keyways match when
installing the driven pulley. Arrange washers to
allow the least amount of “float” on the driven
shaft. A maximum of 1.5 mm (0.060 in.) of float is
0733-912 acceptable.
„NOTE: The alignment bar must extend beyond
the front edge of the drive clutch.

8-27
 4. Install the driven pulley and secure with a cap B. Using the jam nuts on the torque bumper, adjust
screw and washers. Tighten the cap screw to spec- parallelism and periodically check the parallel-
ifications. ism. When the parallelism is correct, tighten the
cap screws and nuts securing the engine mount-
CHECKING PARALLELISM ing brackets to the front end; then tighten the
torque bumper jam nuts allowing 1.5 mm
1. Check parallelism of the drive clutch/driven pulley (0.060 in.) clearance between the torque
using the alignment bar and reference points X and bumper and the engine.
Y with the alignment bar against the driven pulley
at points A and B. Using a calipers or a machinist's
scale, measure X and Y from the back side of the
alignment bar. Measurements X and Y must be
equal or measurement Y must be more than mea-
surement X, but Y must not exceed measurement
X by more than 1.6 mm (0.062 in.).

AN610D
2. Recheck both offset and parallelism to ensure
accuracy and make further adjustments as neces-
sary.
„NOTE: After parallelism and offset have been
corrected, check for proper drive belt deflection.
733-912A This is critical for optimum performance.

CORRECTING PARALLELISM
(Torque Bumper w/Shims)

1. To correct parallelism, minor adjustments can be

made by removing shims from or installing shims
on the left-rear engine mount.
A. Loosen the cap screws securing the engine
mounting brackets to the front end.
B. Add or remove shims as needed to attain cor-
rect parallelism.
AF041
C. When parallelism is correct, secure the engine
„NOTE: The offset must be correct before check- mounting brackets to the front end.
ing parallelism.
2. Recheck both offset and parallelism to ensure accu-
racy and make further adjustments as necessary.
2. If parallelism is not within specifications, the par-
allelism must be corrected. „NOTE: After parallelism and offset have been
corrected, check for proper drive belt deflection.
CORRECTING PARALLELISM This is critical for optimum performance.
(Torque Bumper w/Bearing
Support Bracket) CORRECTING PARALLELISM
(Engine Snubber w/Engine Plate)
1. To correct parallelism, minor adjustments can be
made by adjusting the torque bumper on the left- 1. To correct parallelism, minor adjustments can be
rear engine mount. made by adjusting the engine snubber on the left-
A. Loosen the cap screws and nuts securing the rear engine mount.
engine mounting brackets to the front end. A. Loosen the cap screws securing the engine plate
to the engine mounts.

8-28
 B. Either lengthen or shorten the snubber and peri- 2. Using a 9/16-in. socket and extension, remove the
odically check the parallelism measurement. cap screw securing the driven pulley to the driven
When the parallelism measurement is correct, shaft.
loosen the snubber to allow 1.5 mm (0.060 in.)
clearance between the snubber and the engine; 3. Slide the driven pulley off the driven shaft.
then lock the jam nuts on the snubber and tighten
the cap screws securing the engine plate. „NOTE: Account for and remove any alignment
washers. These washers must be used during
2. Recheck both offset and parallelism to ensure accu- installing.
racy and make further adjustments as necessary.
DISASSEMBLING
„NOTE: After parallelism and offset have been
corrected, check for proper drive belt deflection. 1. Prior to disassembling, mark the driven pulley
This is critical for optimum performance. sheaves and torque bracket.
DRIVE BELT DEFLECTION

Drive belt length, condition, and deflection are all

important for peak performance. To check and adjust
drive belt deflection, use the following procedure.
1. Turn the engine off; then open the belt guard.
2. Make sure the drive belt is sitting at the top of the
driven pulley sheaves.
3. Place a straightedge on top of the drive belt. The
straightedge should reach from the drive clutch to
the top of the driven pulley.
CM060
4. Using a stiff ruler centered between the drive 2. Place the driven pulley on the Driven Pulley Com-
clutch and driven pulley, push down on the drive pressor (p/n 0644-444); then install the compres-
belt just enough to remove all slack. Note the sor flange spacer and wing nut and compress the
amount of deflection on the ruler at the bottom of driven pulley spring.
the straightedge. The deflection should be within
the range of 25-31 mm (1-1 1/4 in.).
„NOTE: Push down on the belt with the ruler only
until the bottom of the belt flexes upward; then
read the amount of deflection.

5. To correct drive belt deflection, washers can be

removed or added between the stationary and
movable sheaves of the driven pulley.
„NOTE: If the drive belt deflection is above specifi-
cations, the snowmobile will bog and lack power at
8
clutch engagement. For good performance, proper
belt deflection is critical. FS090
3. Remove the torx-head cap screws securing the
6. Secure the belt guard. movable sheave to the pulley.

ACT Roller Driven Pulley

(Crossfire/F-Series/M-Series)

REMOVING

1. Remove the drive belt.

„NOTE: For removing drive belt, see Removing/
Installing Drive Belt (ACT Roller Driven Pulley) in
this section.

CM061

8-29
„NOTE: To loosen the torx-head cap screws, it
may be necessary to insert a torx-bit and strike
each screw with a hammer.

4. Release the compression of the spring by remov-

ing the wing nut; then remove the movable sheave.
Account for the spacer (retainer).

CM063
7. Remove the remaining spring seats.

FS093

CM064

„NOTE: Premature wear will result if the plastic

washer is not installed during assembling.
FS094

„NOTE: Note the location of the holes in the CLEANING AND INSPECTING
spacer for assembling purposes.
„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
5. Remove the stationary sheave; then remove the cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
plastic washer (spring seat) and the spacer. necessary.

1. Using parts-cleaning solvent, wash grease, drive

belt dust, and foreign matter off all components.

! CAUTION
Do not use steel wool or a wire brush to clean driven
pulley components. A wire brush or steel wool will
cause the sheaves to be gouged (thus, the drive belt
may not slide properly between sheaves). Decreased
performance and possible accelerated drive belt
wear will result.

2. Inspect the rollers for damage, cracks, or wear.

CM062 3. Inspect the sheaves for any gouges, cracks, or

other damage. Also, inspect threaded areas of
6. Remove the spring. sheaves for damaged or stripped threads.
4. Inspect the torque bracket for cracks or damage.
The ramp portions of the bracket must be free of
gouges and damage. Minor scratches may be
repaired using #320 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper.

8-30
 5. Inspect spring for distortion, crystallization, or REPLACING TORQUE BRACKET
breaks. BEARING/COVER BEARING
6. Inspect the rollers, pins, and spring mounting 1. Remove the snap ring.
holes for cracks, damage, or wear.
2. Using a suitable driving tool, drive the bearing out.
7. Inspect the cover and movable sheave bearings for
wear. For each respective bearing, measure the
outside diameter of the shaft and the inside diame- ! WARNING
ter of the bearing. Compare the readings. Clear- Always wear safety glasses when using the bearing
ance between the shaft and the respective bearing driver.
must not exceed 0.5 mm (0.020 in.). If the clear-
ance exceeds the specification, the bearing must 3. Install the new bearing; then secure with the snap
be replaced. ring.
„NOTE: The movable sheave bearing is a non-ser- REPLACING ROLLERS
viceable component.
1. Drive the spring pins through the stationary sheave
until there is enough room to drive out the cam
roller pin.

FS121

FS101
2. Using an Allen wrench and a flat-blade screw-
driver, press the roller pin out of the stationary
sheave.

8
FS122

CM065

! CAUTION
Care must be taken not to damage the driven pulley
shaft.

„NOTE: Once the roller pin is exposed, it may be

necessary to use a pair of vise-grips to remove the
FS123
pin.

8-31
 ASSEMBLING

1. Place the torque bracket onto the Driven Pulley

Compressor (p/n 0644-444); then place the spring
and plastic washer (spring seat) into position.

FS105
3. Place the new roller into position and tap the roller
pin in far enough to install the spring pin.

CM063
2. Install the spring seats onto the torque bracket.

CM066

CM064

„NOTE: Premature wear will result if the plastic

washer is not installed.
CM067A
4. Tap the spring pin back into place. 3. Noting the alignment marks made during disas-
sembling and with the spring seat and spacer on
the stationary sheave shaft, place the stationary
sheave onto the torque bracket.

CM068A

CM062

8-32
4. Place the spacer (retainer) into position on the sta-
tionary sheave noting the proper location of the
holes from disassembling.

CM061
8. Remove the pulley from the compressor.
INSTALLING
FS094
5. Noting the alignment marks made during disas- 1. Set the brake lever lock.
sembling, place the movable sheave onto the sta-
tionary sheave. 2. Install the alignment washers; then install the
driven pulley on the gear case input shaft. Tighten
to specifications.

! CAUTION
It is critical that no less than two 1.5 mm (0.060 in.)
washers are in place on the input shaft when install-
ing the driven pulley.

FS093
6. With the pulley in place on the compressor, install
the compressor flange spacer and wing nut; then
compress the driven pulley spring.

3. Check drive clutch/driven pulley alignment.

CM125A
8
4. Install the drive belt.
„NOTE: For installing drive belt, see Removing/
Installing Drive Belt (ACT Roller Driven Pulley) in
this section.

CM069
7. Install the torx-head cap screws securing the mov-
able sheave. Tighten to specifications.

8-33
 „NOTE: If the driven pulley is tight on the shaft,
Drive Clutch/ pull the driven pulley off using the Driven Pulley
Puller (p/n 0644-469).
Driven Pulley
(Crossfire/F-Series/M-Series) 2. To move the driven pulley inward on the shaft,
remove washer(s) as required from behind the pul-
ley.
CHECKING OFFSET
3. To move the driven pulley outward on the shaft,
If premature drive belt wear is experienced or if the add alignment washer(s) as required behind the
drive belt turns over, parallelism/offset must be driven pulley.
checked. Also, parallelism/offset must be checked
whenever either the drive clutch or driven pulley is ! CAUTION
serviced. To check offset, use Clutch Alignment Bar
(p/n 0644-427) for the Crossfire/M-Series or (p/n Do not allow the driven pulley to “float” on the out-
0644-496) for the F-Series. To check parallelism, use put shaft. Damage to the driven pulley will occur.
Clutch Alignment Bar (p/n 0644-509).
4. Install the driven pulley and secure with a cap
1. Open the side panel and remove the drive belt. screw and washers. Tighten the cap screw to spec-
ifications.
„NOTE: For removing drive belt, see Removing/
Installing Drive Belt (ACT Roller Driven Pulley) in CHECKING PARALLELISM
this section.
1. Check parallelism of the drive clutch/driven pulley
2. Install the clutch alignment bar between the drive using the alignment bar and reference points X and
clutch sheaves and against the outside edge of the Y with the alignment bar against the driven pulley.
driven pulley stationary sheave. Using a calipers or a machinist’s scale, measure X
and Y from the back side of the alignment bar.
3. Allow the alignment bar to rest on the drive clutch Measurement Y must be 1.5 mm ± 1.0 mm (0.060
shaft. in. ± 0.040 in.) more than measurement X, but Y
„NOTE: The alignment bar must extend beyond
must not exceed measurement X by more than
2.54 mm (0.100 in.).
the front edge of the drive clutch.

4. With the bar against the outside edge of the driven

pulley stationary sheave, the bar should just clear
the inside edge of the stationary sheave of the
drive clutch and rest on the stationary shaft. If the
bar does not clear the inside edge or is more than
1.5 mm (0.060 in.) from the inside edge, the offset
must be corrected.

0742-065

„NOTE: The offset must be correct before check-

ing parallelism.

2. If parallelism is not within specifications, the par-

allelism must be corrected.
DRIVE BELT DEFLECTION
742-044A
Drive belt length, condition, and deflection are all
CORRECTING OFFSET important for peak performance. To check and adjust
drive belt deflection, use the following procedure.
1. To correct offset, the driven pulley must be moved
laterally on the output shaft. Remove the cap 1. Turn the engine off; then open the access panel.
screw and washers securing the driven pulley; then
remove the driven pulley. 2. Make sure the drive belt is sitting at the top of the
driven pulley sheaves.

8-34
 3. Place a straightedge on top of the drive belt. The
straightedge should reach from the drive clutch to
the top of the driven pulley.
4. Using a stiff ruler centered between the drive
clutch and driven pulley, push down on the drive
belt just enough to remove all slack. Note the
amount of deflection on the ruler at the bottom of
the straightedge. The deflection should be at
31 mm (1 1/4 in.).

741-721A
5. With the O-ring and shim washers removed, install
the sheave adjuster and cap screw back into the
driven pulley; then tighten the cap screw until the
sheave adjuster bottoms against the input shaft.
„NOTE: By bottoming the sheave adjuster against
the input shaft, the sheaves of the driven pulley
will spread far enough to allow the removal of the
drive belt.
741-464A
6. Remove the drive belt from the drive clutch and
„NOTE: Push down on the belt with the ruler only driven pulley.
until the bottom of the belt flexes upward; then
read the amount of deflection. 7. Place the drive belt (so the part number can be
read) between the sheaves of the drive clutch first;
5. To correct drive belt deflection, remove the sheave then between the sheaves of the driven pulley.
adjuster from the pulley, remove or add shim 8. Place the shim washers and O-ring (as noted in
washers to the adjuster, and install the adjuster. removing) onto the sheave adjuster; then install
„NOTE: Adding shim washers will decrease belt the cap screw and the sheave adjuster back into the
deflection; removing shim washers will increase driven pulley. Tighten the cap screw to specifica-
belt deflection.
tions.
9. Install the belt guard; then close the left-side
„NOTE: If the drive belt deflection is above specifi- access panel.
cations, the snowmobile will bog and lack power at
clutch engagement. For good performance, proper
! WARNING
belt deflection is critical.
Never operate the snowmobile without the belt
6. Close the access panel.
8
guard/access panel secured in place.

10. Release the brake lever lock.

Removing/Installing
Drive Belt Drive Train/Brake Disc
(ACT Roller Driven Pulley) (Standard w/Reverse)

1. Turn ignition key to the OFF position and wait for DISASSEMBLING
all moving parts to stop.
2. Set the brake lever lock. 1. Remove the chain-case drain plug located on the
lower back side of the chain case inside the tunnel
3. Open the left-side access panel; then remove the and drain the chain case lubricant.
belt guard.
2. Disconnect the battery cables. Remove the battery
4. Remove the cap screw and sheave adjuster from and battery tray.
the end of the driven pulley. Account for and
remove the O-ring and shim washers. Note the ori- 3. Open the belt guard and remove the drive belt.
entation of the components for installing purposes.

8-35
 4. Remove the cap screw and washer securing the
driven pulley; then account for and note the posi-
tion of any alignment washers.

741-158A
8. Remove the screw from the chain adjuster housing
and install an 8-32 set screw to lock the chain
adjuster in position.
SC013D
5. Slide the driven pulley off the driven shaft; then
remove the driven pulley from the engine com-
partment. Account for the key, stub shaft, and
alignment washers.
„NOTE: If the driven pulley is tight on the driven
shaft, pull the driven pulley off using the Driven
Pulley Puller (p/n 0744-023).

AF426
9. Remove the shim washer from the idler sprocket.

AF120D

„NOTE: Tip the snowmobile on its left side posi-

tioning the chain case side of the snowmobile up.
Place a piece of cardboard under the side of the
snowmobile to prevent scratching of bumper and
belly pan.
AF436
! CAUTION 10. Remove the outer idler sprocket from the shaft.
On models with mirrors before tipping the snowmo-
bile on its side, position a block of wood under the
side of the snowmobile to keep the mirrors from
contacting the floor or damage may occur.

6. Disconnect the shift linkage from the arm on chain

case.
7. Remove the cap screw (A) from the center of the
chain case; then remove the remaining cap screws
securing the chain case cover; then remove the
cover by pulling outward and lifting up so the shift
fork clears the large inner washer.
AF437

8-36
11. Slide the small rubber alignment pin from the face
of the inner idler sprocket and place in safe loca-
tion until assembly.

AF428
15. Remove the reverse gear.

AF439
12. Remove the lock nut securing the top sprocket.

AF442
16. Remove the top sprocket, chain, and idler gear.
Account for one shim washer located behind the
idler gear.
AF432
13. Remove the spring washer in front of the top
sprocket.

8
AF433

„NOTE: If the chain is too tight and wont allow the

AF444 top sprocket to be removed, remove the PTO-side
14. Set the brake lever lock. Remove the cap screw driven shaft bearing. This will allow the driven
and large washer securing the bottom sprocket. shaft to be lifted at the PTO-side and will loosen
the chain.
„NOTE: The bottom sprocket cap screw and
washer are spring loaded. 17. Remove the driveshaft extension, bottom sprocket,
and spacer washer.

8-37
 „NOTE: Using a hold-down strap, secure the air-
intake silencer to the engine.

22. Loosen the set screw on the PTO-side driven shaft

collar. Drive the collar clockwise (opposite shaft
rotation) until it is free.
„NOTE: A fine file should be used to remove any
burrs left by the collar set screw.

23. Remove the lock nuts and carriage bolts securing

the PTO-side driven shaft flange plates.

AF427
18. Check the idler gear shaft. If the shaft surface is
rough, remove the shaft using a pair of vise-grip
pliers. Rotate the shaft counterclockwise.
19. Remove the shoulder nut securing the chain tight-
ener arm; then remove the arm from the chain
case.

AF002D
24. Force the driven shaft toward the PTO-side (rotat-
ing the shaft to prevent the brake disc from bind-
ing on the shaft) until brake disc is free. Account
for the key.
25. Continue to slide the driven shaft until it is out of
the PTO-side. Account for a bearing, two flange
plates, and the PTO-side driven shaft collar.
AF447
26. Remove the skid frame from the tunnel (see Sec-
20. Remove the three lock nuts (A) securing the top tion 9).
bearing flange plate. Remove the flange plate, seal,
and bearing; then remove the three lock nuts (B) 27. Remove the three PTO-side lock nuts securing the
securing the bottom bearing flange plate. Remove driveshaft flange bearing assembly and cable
the flange plate, seal, and bearing. adapter. Remove the adapter and speedometer
cable.

AF431A
AF053
„NOTE: Steps 21-25 are for Bearcat/Panther/Z
models. 28. Tap the driveshaft toward the chain case to unseat
the MAG-side bearing. Remove the bearing.
21. Remove the screw securing the air-intake silencer
to the steering support; then pull the silencer for-
ward and place it on the carburetor/throttle body
assembly.

8-38
29. Slide the driveshaft toward the MAG-side until the 13. Inspect the drive pin springs for tension by push-
PTO-side of the driveshaft is out of its mounting ing each pin into the sprocket and releasing it. It
hole. Tilt the end of the driveshaft away from the must snap back out without any signs of binding.
tunnel and slide the driveshaft free of the tunnel. If any of these items (pins, bearing, sprocket,
Remove the track. teeth) appear worn, replace the sprocket as an
assembly.

AF055
30. Scribe a line on the driveshaft along the edge of AI019
each sprocket to aid in assembly. Loosen the set 14. Inspect the idler gear sprocket teeth and bearings.
screw on the collar and drive the collar clockwise Rotate the inner bearings by hand. Check each
until free; then remove the bearing and flange sprocket tooth for any signs of chipping and wear.
plates from the driveshaft.
15. Closely inspect the drive chain for broken links.
31. Press the sprockets off the driveshaft.
16. Inspect the reverse gear. Inspect the teeth for wear
CLEANING AND INSPECTING and chipping. Inspect the edges of drive pin holes
for any signs of chipping and wear.
„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is 17. Remove the snap ring from the reverse gear.
necessary.
Remove the outer thrust washer, thrust bearing,
and inner thrust washer. Inspect the thrust bearing
by placing it between the two thrust washers and
1. Thoroughly wash all metallic components in parts- rotating the thrust washer. Rotation must feel
cleaning solvent. Dry using compressed air. smooth. If any roughness is noted, replace the
2. Wash all non-metallic components with soap and thrust washers and bearing as a set.
water. 18. Inspect the chain tightener bearing. Rotate the
3. Inspect the driveshaft and driven shaft for dam- tightener roller and check for smooth rotation. If
aged splines or stripped threads. rotation feels rough, replace roller and bearing
assembly.
4. Inspect the bearings for any roughness or damage.
5. Inspect the seals for any breaks or damage.
ASSEMBLING
8
1. Press the sprockets on the driveshaft noting the
6. Inspect the track for cuts, gouges, or wear. scribed marks on the shaft and the timing mark
found on one tooth of each sprocket. The timing
7. Inspect the keyways in the driven shaft for wear or mark is an arrow molded into the outer surface of
damage. one drive tooth. All the arrow markings must be in
8. Inspect the brake disc for wear or cracks. alignment.
„NOTE: Sprocket style will vary from model to
9. Inspect the track drive sprockets for wear or dam-
age. model.

10. Inspect the top sprocket for any chipped or worn

teeth.
11. Inspect the bottom sprocket teeth for wear. Turn
the inner sprocket bearing by hand and inspect for
any signs of being rough.
12. Inspect the three bottom sprocket drive pins.
Check the pin edges for chipping and wear.

8-39
 739-057A AF053

„NOTE: Make sure all sprockets are installed cor- 7. Slide the MAG-side bearing onto the driveshaft
rectly to ensure correct timing of the sprockets.
(inner race flange must be positioned toward drive
chain); then install the O-ring and flange plate.
The bearing is positioned between the flange Secure with three carriage bolts and lock nuts.
plates. Tighten to specifications.
2. Assemble the driveshaft components on the PTO- „NOTE: Prior to installation, lubricate the O-ring
side of the driveshaft. with Low-Temp Snowmobile Grease (p/n 0636-593).
3. Install the bearing lock collar; then install the 8. Slide the brake disc into position on the splined
flange bearing assembly with the bolts facing end of the driven shaft.
towards the tunnel.
9. Install the PTO-side bearing with collar and flange
4. Position the front of the track up into the tunnel. plates on the driven shaft; do not tighten the collar
Install the driveshaft with the splined end through at this time. Place the driven shaft into position
its mounting hole in the chain case. making sure the brake disc and flange plates are
properly positioned. Secure the PTO-side bearing
and flange plates with two carriage bolts and lock
nuts. Tighten to specifications.
10. On the MAG-side driven shaft, install the bearing,
O-ring, and flange plate. Secure with three lock
nuts. Tighten to specifications.
„NOTE: Prior to installation, lubricate the O-ring
with Low-Temp Snowmobile Grease (p/n 0636-593).

! CAUTION
Tighten the flange plate nuts evenly or the O-ring
AF055 seal may be damaged.
5. Place the PTO-side of the driveshaft into position
by sliding the bolts of the flange bearing assembly „NOTE: If washers were removed from behind the
through the holes in the tunnel. upper sprocket, install them at this time.

6. Place the cable adapter into position on the flange 11. Install the spacer washer on the driveshaft.
bearing assembly bolts. Secure with three lock
nuts. Tighten to specifications.

AF090

8-40
12. Install the bottom sprocket and driveshaft exten-
sion.

AF432

„NOTE: If the PTO-side driven shaft bearing was

AF427 removed to make the sprocket installation easier,
13. Position one shim washer on the idler gear shaft. install the bearing and flange plate. Lock the bear-
ing collar by driving it in the direction of rotation to
lock the collar to the bearing and shaft. Tighten the
collar set screw.

16. Place the rubber alignment pin into position in the

idler sprocket; then slide the outer idler gear on the
shaft. Install shim washer on the shaft.

AF430
14. Position the chain around the lower reverse
sprocket; then place the idler sprocket and top
sprocket into the chain. Slide sprockets into posi-
tion on the idler shaft and driven shaft.

AF436
17. If the lower reverse sprocket was disassembled,
assemble the thrust washer, bearing, and thrust
washer. Secure with the snap ring. Apply transmis-
sion lube to the bearing and rotate by hand. 8

AF441

„NOTE: If the chain tension is too tight to allow

installation of the top sprocket, remove the PTO-
side driven shaft bearing. This will allow the driven
shaft to be lifted at the PTO-side and will allow the
sprocket to slide onto the splined end of the driven
shaft. AI021
18. Slide the reverse gear onto the driveshaft exten-
15. Secure the top sprocket with a spring washer (with sion; then position the spring into the reverse gear
the high side directed away from the sprocket) and and secure with heavy washer and cap screw
lock nut (coated with green Loctite #609). Tighten (coated with blue Loctite #243). Tighten to speci-
the lock nut to specifications. fications.

8-41
 AF428 AF054
19. Install the chain tensioner arm, apply blue Loctite 28. Install the skid frame (see Section 9).
#243 to the stud threads, and tighten the shoulder
nut to specifications. 29. Remove the hold-down strap securing the air-
intake silencer; then place the silencer into posi-
20. Remove the set screw from the chain adjuster tion making sure the boot is properly positioned on
housing and install the adjuster plug. the carburetor/throttle body assembly. Secure the
silencer to the steering support with the two
21. Check that the chain-case O-ring seal is positioned screws.
correctly on the housing.
30. Apply a light coat of grease or Loctite Anti-Seize
22. Position the shift fork behind the large thrust Thread Compound (p/n 0678-146) to the driven
washer and bearing on the reverse gear; then posi- shaft; then install the driven shaft alignment wash-
tion the cover on the housing. ers (as required) and key. Install the stub shaft and
the driven pulley, alignment washers (as required),
washer, and cap screw (coated with blue Loctite
#243). Tighten to specifications.
„NOTE: Make sure the keyways match when
installing the driven pulley. Arrange washers to
allow the least amount of float on the driven shaft.
A maximum of 1.5 mm (0.060 in.) float is allowable.

AF075
23. Apply blue Loctite #243 to the threads of the cap
screw; then install the cap screw through the cen-
ter of the cover and into the idler shaft. Tighten the
cap screw enough to draw the idler shaft into the
cover.
24. Place the shift pivot and reverse switch bracket
into position on the cover; then secure the chain- SC013D
case cover with cap screws and lock washers.
Tighten the cap screws to specifications. 31. Check the alignment of the drive clutch/driven
pulley (see appropriate Drive Clutch/Driven Pul-
25. Place the shift linkage into position on the back ley in this section).
side of the arm and secure with a cap screw and
lock nut. Tighten to specifications. 32. Assure that the chain case drain plug is tightened
to specifications; then pour 354 ml (12 fl oz) of
26. Place the reverse lever into position on the shift Arctic Cat Transmission Lube (p/n 0636-817) into
pivot and secure with a clevis pin and cotter pin. the chain case.

27. On the PTO-side of the track driveshaft, slide the 33. Install the drive belt and check belt deflection.
lock collar against the bearing, drive the collar in Secure the belt guard.
the direction of rotation until tight, and tighten the
collar set screw. 34. Install and secure the battery tray and battery; then
connect the battery cables making sure to connect
the positive cable first.

8-42
ADJUSTING REVERSE LINKAGE 3. Remove the cap screw and washer securing the
driven pulley; then account for and note the posi-
1. Start the engine; then test the shifting characteris- tion of any alignment washers.
tics of the reverse transmission.
2. If adjustment of the reverse gear is necessary, stop
the engine and remove the chain case inspection
plug located behind the oil level stick; then insert
the Reverse Gear Adjustment Gauge (p/n 0644-
244) completely into the inspection hole.

SC013D
4. Slide the driven pulley off the driven shaft; then
remove the driven pulley from the engine com-
partment. Account for the stub shaft, key, and
alignment washers.
„NOTE: If the driven pulley is tight on the driven
0731-734 shaft, pull the driven pulley off using the Driven
3. Pull the shift lever into the reverse position while Pulley Puller (p/n 0744-023).
holding the adjustment gauge firmly against the
chain case cover. Slight outward pressure should
be felt on the gauge as the lever locks into reverse.
4. If no contact is noted, loosen the jam nuts securing
the lower shift linkage and adjust the linkage rod
until the gauge is pushed out of the chain case
0.254-0.381 mm (0.010-0.015 in.). Lock the
adjustment by tightening the jam nuts securely
against the tie rod ends.
„NOTE: To adjust the linkage rod, the shift lever
must be moved to the forward position.

5. Install the inspection plug.

AF120D
6. Start the engine; then test the shifting characteris- 5. Remove the cap screws and lock washers securing
tics of the reverse transmission. Adjust as neces- the chain-case cover; then remove the cover.
sary. 8
! CAUTION
The linkage must be properly adjusted. If the linkage
is too short, damage to the shift fork may occur. If
the linkage is adjusted too long, the gears will not
shift totally into reverse.

Drive Train/Brake Disc

(Standard w/o Reverse)

DISASSEMBLING AF111D
6. Loosen the mechanical chain tensioner bolt; then
1. Remove the chain-case drain plug (located on the remove the cotter pins and washers securing the
lower back side of the chain case inside the tunnel) tensioner spring to the link pins. Remove the
and drain the chain case lubricant. spring, rollers, and washers.
2. Open the belt guard and remove the drive belt.

8-43
 AF347D AF116D
7. Remove the flex nut securing the front roller cage 11. Remove the screws securing the air-intake silencer
and roller. Remove the cage and roller. to the steering support; then pull the silencer for-
ward and place it on the carburetors/throttle body.
8. Set the brake lever lock; then remove the lock nut
and spring washer securing the bottom sprocket „NOTE: Using a hold-down strap, secure the air-
and the lock nut and spring washer securing the intake silencer to the engine.
top sprocket.
12. Loosen the set screw on the PTO-side driven shaft
collar. Drive the collar clockwise (opposite shaft
rotation) until it is free.
„NOTE: A fine file should be used to remove any
burrs left by the collar set screw.

13. Remove the two lock nuts and carriage bolts

securing the PTO-side driven shaft flange plate.
14. Force the driven shaft toward the PTO-side (rotat-
ing the shaft to prevent the brake disc from bind-
ing on the shaft) until the brake disc is free.
Account for the key.
AF345D
15. Continue to slide the driven shaft until it is out of
the PTO-side. Account for a bearing, flange plate,
and the PTO-side driven shaft collar.
16. Remove the skid frame from the tunnel (see Sec-
tion 9).
17. Remove the three PTO-side lock nuts securing the
driveshaft flange bearing assembly and the speed-
ometer cable adapter. Remove the cable adapter
and speedometer cable.

AF344D
9. Slide both sprockets with chain off the shafts.
Account for washer(s) behind the top sprocket.
Release the brake lever lock.
„NOTE: If a sprocket will not slide off the shaft,
thread the nut onto the shaft; then use a puller to
loosen the sprocket. The nut will prevent damage
to the threads.

10. Remove the six lock nuts securing the top and bot- AF053
tom chain case flange plates. Remove the flange
plates, seals, and bearings. 18. Tap the driveshaft toward the chain case to unseat
the MAG-side bearing. Remove the bearing.

8-44
19. Slide the driveshaft toward the MAG-side until the ASSEMBLING
PTO-end of the driveshaft is out of its mounting
hole. Tilt the end of the driveshaft away from the 1. Press the sprockets on the driveshaft noting the
tunnel and slide the driveshaft free of the tunnel. scribed marks on the shaft and the timing mark
Remove the track. found on one tooth of each sprocket. The timing
mark is an arrow molded into the outer surface of
one drive tooth of the inside sprockets and on the
inside surface of the outside sprockets. All the
arrow markings must be in alignment.
„NOTE: Sprocket style will vary from model to
model.

AF055
20. Scribe a line on the driveshaft along the edge of
each sprocket to aid in assembly. Loosen the set
screw on the collar and drive the collar clockwise
until free; then remove the bearing and flange
plates from the driveshaft.
21. Press the sprockets off the driveshaft. 739-057A

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Thoroughly wash all metallic components in parts-

cleaning solvent. Dry using compressed air.
2. Wash all non-metallic components with soap and
water.
3. Inspect the driveshaft and driven shaft for dam-
aged splines or stripped threads. 739-059A

4. Inspect the bearings for any roughness or damage. „NOTE: Make sure the sprockets are installed cor-

5. Inspect the seals for any breaks or damage.

rectly and the bearing is positioned between the
flange plates ensuring correct timing of the 8
sprockets.
6. Inspect the track for cuts, gouges, or wear.
7. Inspect the keyways in the driven shaft for wear or 2. Assemble the driveshaft components on the PTO-
damage. end of the driveshaft.

8. Inspect the brake disc for wear or cracks. 3. Install the bearing lock collar; then install the
flange bearing assembly with the bolts facing
9. Inspect the chain, sprockets, and chain tensioner towards the tunnel.
components for wear or damage.
4. Position the front of the track into the tunnel.
10. Inspect the track drive sprockets for wear or dam- Install the driveshaft with the splined end through
age. its mounting hole in the chain case.

8-45
 12. Loop the chain around the bottom sprocket and
slide the top sprocket with chain onto the driven
shaft. Secure the top sprocket with a lock nut
(threads coated with green Loctite #609) and
spring washer. Tighten to specifications. Tighten
the bottom sprocket lock nut (from step 8) to spec-
ifications.

AF055
5. Place the PTO-end of the driveshaft into position
by sliding the bolts of the flange bearing assembly
through the holes in the tunnel.
6. Place the cable adapter into position on the flange
bearing assembly bolts. Secure with three lock
nuts. Tighten to specifications.
AF344D

AF053 AF345D
7. Slide the MAG-side bearing onto the driveshaft 13. Check the alignment of the sprockets using the fol-
(inner race flange must be positioned toward drive lowing procedure.
chain); then install the O-ring seal and flange
plate. Insert the cap screws from the inside of the A. Place a straightedge against the faces of the
tunnel through the chain case, seal, and flange. sprockets.
Secure with three lock nuts. Tighten to specifica-
tions. B. Using a feeler gauge, check for clearance along
the faces of both sprockets. If clearance exceeds
8. Place the bottom sprocket onto the splines. Finger- 0.8 mm (0.030 in.), shimming is necessary.
tighten a lock nut (threads coated with blue Loctite
#243) and spring washer. DO NOT TIGHTEN AT
THIS TIME.
9. Install the PTO-side bearing with collar and flange
plate on the driven shaft; do not tighten the collar
at this time.
10. Place the driven shaft into position making sure
the brake disc and flange plate are properly posi-
tioned. Secure the PTO-side bearing and flange
plate with two carriage bolts and lock nuts.
Tighten to specifications.
11. On the MAG-side of the driven shaft, install the
bearing, seal, and flange plate. Secure with three 0725-171

lock nuts. Tighten to specifications. „NOTE: Sprockets can only be shimmed out.
„NOTE: If washers were removed from behind the
top sprocket; install them at this time.

8-46
14. On the PTO-side of the driven shaft and the track
driveshaft, slide the lock collar against the bearing,
drive the collar in the direction of rotation until
tight, and tighten the collar set screw securely.

AF113D
21. Tighten the mechanical chain tensioner finger-
tight; then lock the jam nut against the chain case.

AF058
15. Install the skid frame (see Section 9).
16. Remove the hold-down strap securing the air-
intake silencer; then place the silencer into posi-
tion making sure the boot is properly positioned on
the carburetors/throttle body.
17. Secure the silencer to the steering support with the
two screws.
18. Apply a light coat of grease or Loctite Anti-Seize
Thread Compound (p/n 0678-146) to the driven
shaft; then install the driven shaft alignment wash- AF347D
ers (as required) and key. Install the driven pulley, 22. Place the front roller cage and roller into position
stub shaft, alignment washers (as required), and secure with the flex lock nut.
washer, and cap screw. Tighten the cap screw
(coated with blue Loctite #243) to specifications. 23. Check the position of the chain-case cover O-ring
seal; then place the chain-case cover into position
„NOTE: Make sure keyways match when installing and secure with six cap screws and lock washers.
the driven pulley. Arrange washers to allow the Tighten to specifications.
least amount of float on the driven shaft. A maxi-
mum of 1.5 mm (0.060 in.) float is allowable.

AF111D
24. Install the drain plug and tighten to specifications;
AF057 then pour 236 ml (8 fl oz) of Arctic Cat Transmis-
19. Check the alignment of the drive clutch/driven sion Lube (p/n 0636-817) into the chain case.
pulley (see appropriate Drive Clutch/Driven Pul- 25. Install the drive belt and check drive belt deflec-
ley in this section). tion (see appropriate Drive Clutch/Driven Pulley
20. Tip the snowmobile onto the PTO-side using card- in this section). Secure the belt guard.
board to prevent scratching the belly pan; then
install the washers, rollers, and spring. Secure with
two washers and cotter pins.

8-47
 Drive Train/Brake Disc
(F-Series)

Removing Gear Case ........................................... 8-48

Removing Track Driveshaft .................................. 8-49
Installing Track Driveshaft .................................... 8-51
Disassembling Gear Case .................................... 8-52
Cleaning and Inspecting Gear Case ..................... 8-55
Removing Drive Sprockets.................................... 8-55
Installing Drive Sprockets...................................... 8-56
Assembling Gear Case ......................................... 8-57 ZJ183A
Installing Gear Case ............................................. 8-60 4. Remove the torx-head cap screws securing the toe
shield and hook bracket to the chassis; then
REMOVING GEAR CASE remove the shield and bracket.
„NOTE: The gear case drive fluid does not have to
be drained for this procedure.

1. Remove the access panels from both sides of the

snowmobile.
„NOTE: At this point, engage the brake lever lock.

2. Using a 9/16-in. socket and extension, remove the

cap screw securing the driven pulley to the input
shaft. Remove the pulley from the shaft.

0742-089

„NOTE: Either elevate the snowmobile off the floor

with a suitable lift or tip the snowmobile on its
right side positioning the gear case side of the
snowmobile up. Place a piece of cardboard under
the side of the snowmobile to prevent scratching
of bumper and belly pan.

5. Loosen but do not remove the 16 mm cap screw

(from the brake disc side of the inner driveshaft)
ZJ182A
securing the driveshaft to the gear case.
.

„NOTE: After removing the driven pulley, account

for the cap screw and washers, sheave adjuster,
alignment washers, and O-ring from outside the
pulley; then from the input shaft, remove the two
1.5 mm (0.060 in.) washers along with any other
alignment washers. These washers must be used
during installing.

3. Disconnect the plug-ins for the shift actuator (A)

and the gear indicator switch (B).

742-020A

„NOTE: For gear case removing purposes at this

time, do not remove the 16 mm cap screw.

8-48
 6. Remove the seven lock nuts securing the gear case
to the chassis; then remove the remaining lock nut
and torx-head cap screw.

ZJ210A
5. Loosen but do not remove the 16 mm cap screw
(from the brake disc side of the inner driveshaft)
securing the driveshaft to the gear case.
742-018A
7. Place the snowmobile in the upright position; then
using a 16 mm socket, long extension, and a soft
hammer, tap against the driveshaft cap screw until
the gear case is free from the studs of the mounting
plate.
8. Remove the cap screw from the inner driveshaft
(from step 5); then remove the gear case.
„NOTE: If the gear case is difficult to remove, it
may be necessary to loosen the track tension.

„NOTE: Account for the torque bumper.

REMOVING TRACK DRIVESHAFT 742-020A

„NOTE: For gear case removing purposes at this

„NOTE: The gear case drive fluid does not have to time, do not remove the 16 mm cap screw.
be drained for this procedure.
6. Using Brake Disc Socket Wrench (p/n 0644-481),
1. Remove the access panels from both sides of the remove the retaining nut from the driveshaft.
snowmobile.
2. Remove the negative cable from the battery; then
remove the positive cable. Remove the hardware
securing the battery to the tray; then remove the
battery.
3. Remove the hairpin clip and springs securing the
8
resonator; then remove the resonator from the
engine compartment.
4. Remove the two cap screws securing the speedom-
eter sensor bracket. Account for two spacers.

ZJ211
7. Using the Rear Suspension Spring Tool (p/n 0144-
311), remove the spring from the adjusting cam.

! WARNING
Care must be taken when removing the spring or
damage or injury could result.

8. Remove the rear cap screws securing the skid

frame to the tunnel. Account for lock washers and
flat washers.

8-49
 9. Tip the snowmobile onto the right side positioning
the gear case side of the snowmobile up. Place a
piece of cardboard under the side of the snowmo-
bile to protect against scratching.
10. Slide the skid frame rearward far enough to drop
the front arm out of the slider axle; then remove
the skid frame.
11. Using a 9/16-in. socket and extension, remove the
cap screw securing the driven pulley to the input
shaft.

0742-089
15. Remove the seven lock nuts securing the gear case
to the chassis; then remove the remaining lock nut
and torx-head cap screw.

ZJ182A
12. Slide the driven pully off the shaft.
„NOTE: After removing the driven pulley, account
for the cap screw and washers, sheave adjuster,
alignment washers, and O-ring from outside the
742-018A
pulley; then from the input shaft, remove the two
1.5 mm (0.060 in.) washers along with any other 16. Place the snowmobile in the upright position; then
alignment washers. These washers must be used using a 16 mm socket, long extension, and a soft
during installing. hammer, tap against the driveshaft cap screw until
the gear case is free from the studs of the mounting
13. Disconnect the plug-ins for the shift actuator (A) plate.
and the gear indicator switch (B). 17. Remove the cap screw from the inner driveshaft
(from step 5); then remove the gear case.
„NOTE: If the gear case is difficult to remove, it
may be necessary to loosen the track tension.

„NOTE: Account for the torque bumper.

18. With the gear case removed, pull the driveshaft

toward the gear case side of the tunnel until it
clears the brake caliper housing; then remove the
driveshaft. Account for the rubber seal.

ZJ183A
14. Remove the torx-head cap screws securing the toe
shield and hook bracket to the chassis; then
remove the shield and bracket.

ZJ212

8-50
INSTALLING TRACK DRIVESHAFT

„NOTE: Prior to installing the driveshaft, apply a

coat of Anti-Seize Thread Compound (p/n 0678-
146) to the internal splines of the driveshaft.

ZJ215A

„NOTE: Prior to placing the gear case onto the

driveshaft, apply a light coat of Anti-Seize Thread
Compound (p/n 0678-146) to the splines of the
driveshaft.
ZJ213A
3. Place the gear case onto the driveshaft; then press
1. Place the track/driveshaft assembly into the bear- the gear case toward the sprocket until it properly
ing of the brake housing just far enough to allow seats into place on the chassis. It may be necessary
the brake disc to be installed in the brake housing to rotate the driveshaft slightly for proper seating.
assembly.
4. Loosely secure the gear case by first installing the
six lock nuts and finger tighten; then install the
torque bumper and a torx-head cap screw and the
two remaining lock nuts and tighten all the nuts to
specifications.

ZJ214A

„NOTE: Prior to installing the driveshaft, ensure

that the bearing spacer is positioned to the inner
bore of the brake caliper housing.
742-018A 8
„NOTE: When tightening the nuts to the proper
torque factor, it is advisable to begin tightening the
nuts located on the bottom of the gear case and
working upward in a crisscross pattern until all
nuts are tightened to the proper torque factor.

5. Connect shift actuator harness (A) and gear indica-

tor switch harness (B).

0742-087
2. With the brake lever lock engaged and the brake
disc correctly positioned in the brake housing
assembly, properly align the splines of the drive-
shaft with the brake disc; then push the driveshaft
the rest of the way into the brake housing until it is
properly seated.
8-51
 11. Install the speedometer sensor mounting bracket
(with two spacers); then secure with the two cap
screws. Tighten to specifications.
12. Slide the driven pulley onto the input shaft making
sure alignment washers are in place.

! CAUTION
It is critical that no less than two 1.5 mm (0.060 in.)
washers are in place on the input shaft when install-
ing the driven pulley.

13. Secure the driven pulley with components and

ZJ183A
hardware as noted in removing. Tighten to specifi-
6. Install the skid frame (see Section 9). cations.
7. Apply Anti-Seize Thread Compound (p/n 0678-
146) to the threads of the brake disc retaining nut;
then install the nut.
8. Using Brake Disc Socket Wrench (p/n 0644-481),
tighten the brake disc retaining nut to specifica-
tions.

ZJ250A
14. Install the drive belt.
„NOTE: For installing drive belt, see Removing/
Installing Drive Belt (ACT Roller Driven Pulley) in
this section.

MS323 15. Place the access panels into position and secure
with existing hardware.
„NOTE: After the retaining nut is tightened to
specifications, peen the nut at the flat spot of the 16. Check the track for alignment and recommended
driveshaft. tension; then tighten the cap screws securely (see
Section 9).
9. Secure the driveshaft to the output shaft with the
cap screw (coated with blue Loctite #243) and DISASSEMBLING GEAR CASE
washer. Tighten to specifications.
1. Remove the three torx-head cap screws securing
the shift actuator to the gear case and remove the
actuator; then remove the gear indicator switch.

742-020A
10. Place the resonator into position and secure with
the springs and hairpin clip. ZJ186A

8-52
 2. Remove the 13 torx-head cap screws securing the
gear case cover to the gear case assembly; then
insert two flat-blade screwdrivers into the slots on
the gear case. Working back and forth, pry the
cover up and off the gear case.

ZJ189
6. With a cap screw threaded into the input shaft and
using a soft hammer, drive the input shaft out of
the gear case cover.

742-195B
3. Drain the gear case fluid into a suitable container.
4. Remove the shift fork assembly; then remove the
retaining ring securing the shift fork arm to the
shaft and remove the arm. Account for the retain-
ing rings, O-ring, and slider blocks.

ZJ190
7. Using a suitable bearing press and fixture, press
the input shaft bearing out of the gear case cover.
Account for a bearing and a seal.

ZJ300

„NOTE: For assembling purposes, note the posi-

8
tion of the slider blocks on the shift fork arm.

! CAUTION
If the input shaft bearing is removed, always replace
it with a new one or severe component damage may
occur.
ZJ191

5. Secure the gear case cover in a suitable clamping

device; then using two flat-blade screwdrivers
from opposite sides of the cover bearing, evenly
pry the input shaft bearing up and off the shaft.

MS331

8-53
 8. Secure the gear case in a suitable clamping device;
then using the procedure from step 5, remove the
outer bearing from the transfer gear.

ZJ195
12. Remove the transfer gear from the planetary gear
assembly and account for the thrust washer and
thrust bearing.
ZJ192

! CAUTION
If any transfer gear bearings are removed, always
replace them with new ones or severe component
damage may occur.

9. Place the gear case on its side; then using a soft

hammer, tap the output shaft until the slider and
output gear assembly come free of the gear case.

ZJ196

„NOTE: For assembling purposes, note that the

thrust bearing is positioned between the thrust
washer and the gear assembly.

ZJ193

10. Remove the output gear assembly from the slider

housing.

ZJ197

13. Remove the retaining ring and thrust washer

securing the slider housing assembly to the output
shaft assembly.

ZJ194
11. Using a suitable bearing puller, remove the inner
bearing from the transfer gear assembly. Account
for a spacer washer.

8-54
 7. Inspect the input shaft/transfer gear bearings for
wear, scoring, scuffing, damage, or discoloration.
Rotate the bearings. Bearings must rotate freely
and must not bind or feel rough. If any abnormal
condition is noted, replace the bearing.
„NOTE: The output shaft bearing is a non-service-
able component. If any damage or binding is
noted, the output shaft assembly must be
replaced.

8. Apply a light film of Arctic Cat ACT Drive Fluid

(p/n 4639-025) to the unsealed bearings prior to
ZJ200 assembling.
14. Using a suitable puller, remove the bearing from REMOVING DRIVE SPROCKETS
the output shaft.
15. Using a suitable seal removing tool, remove the „NOTE: The drive sprockets must be removed
output shaft seals from the gear case. from the gear case end of the driveshaft.

ZJ204 ZJ216A
1. For installing purposes, scribe a line on the drive-
CLEANING AND INSPECTING GEAR shaft (A) next to the drive sprocket for proper
CASE alignment; then scribe a line on the driveshaft
directly in line with the timing arrows (B) on the
„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively, drive sprockets for proper sprocket timing.
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

„NOTE: The planetary gear assembly is a non-ser-

viceable component. If any damage or wear is
detected, it must be replaced.
8
1. Wash the gear case halves in parts-cleaning sol-
vent.
2. Inspect the gear case halves for scoring, pitting,
scuffing, or any imperfections in the casting.
3. Inspect all threaded areas for damaged or stripped
threads. MS357A
2. Using a suitable press positioned against the ten-
4. Inspect the bearing areas for cracks or excessive sion-collar of the drive sprocket (located on the
bearing movement. If evidence of excessive bear- gear case) and of the driveshaft, press the drive
ing movement is noted, replace the component. sprockets off the driveshaft.
5. Inspect the sealing surfaces of the gear case halves
for trueness.
6. Wash the unsealed gear case bearings in parts-
cleaning solvent.

8-55
 INSTALLING DRIVE SPROCKETS

„NOTE: The drive sprockets must be installed on

the gear case end of the driveshaft.

ZJ217

! CAUTION
Always press against the tension-collar of the drive
sprockets or damage to the components will occur.
ZJ216A

„NOTE: Prior to installing the sprockets onto the

driveshaft, it is advisable to lightly chamfer the
inside edge of the sprocket to avoid binding.

ZJ218A

Cleaning and Inspecting

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is MS362

necessary. 1. Properly align the scribed line on the driveshaft

(from removing) with the timing arrow on the
1. Thoroughly wash all metallic components in parts- drive sprocket; then slide the sprocket onto the
cleaning solvent. Dry using compressed air. driveshaft as far as it will go.
2. Wash all non-metallic components with soap and
water.
3. Inspect the driveshaft for damaged splines or
stripped threads.
4. Inspect the seals for any breaks or damage.
5. Inspect the track for cuts, gouges, or wear.
6. Inspect the brake disc for wear or cracks.
7. Inspect the track drive sprockets for wear or dam-
age.
MS360A
2. Using a suitable press and fixture, press the drive-
shaft into the sprocket until it aligns with the line
scribed in removing.

8-56
 MS361A MS364
3. Slide the remaining sprocket onto the driveshaft
making sure the timing arrow/lines (from remov- ASSEMBLING GEAR CASE
ing) are aligned; then using the press/fixture, press
the sprocket to the remaining alignment line. 1. Using an appropriate seal installation tool, install
the oil seal into the output shaft opening of the
! CAUTION gear case.
Always press against the tension-collar of the drive „NOTE: Grease must be applied to the seal prior
sprockets or damage to the components will occur. to installing.

MS359A ZJ204

4. Using a calipers, measure distances between the 2. Place the output shaft assembly into position in the
sprockets and from the sprockets to each end of slider housing; then secure the assembly to the
the driveshaft for proper location (see illustra- housing with the thrust washer and retaining ring.
tions).

ZJ200
0742-042 3. Using a suitable bearing press, install the bearing
onto the ring gear.

8-57
 6. Install the output gear assembly into the slider
assembly until the inner bearing is properly seated.

ZJ199
4. In order, install the thrust washer and then the
thrust bearing onto the transfer gear shaft.
ZJ194
7. With the alignment notches of the slider and gear
case properly positioned, install the slider/output
gear assembly into the gear case.

ZJ196

ZJ201
8. Using a suitable bearing press, install the outer
bearing onto the transfer gear shaft.

ZJ197
5. Position the planetary gear assembly onto the
transfer gear shaft; then install the spacer washer.
Using a suitable press, install the inner bearing
onto the transfer gear shaft.

ZJ199
9. Using a suitable bearing press and fixture, install
the input shaft bearing to the gear case; then install
the oil seal.
„NOTE: Grease must be applied to the seal prior
to installing.

ZJ208

8-58
 ZJ202 ZJ301A
13. Install the slider blocks to the shift fork assembly;
then install the fork assembly into the slider and
gear case.

ZJ204
10. Using a suitable press, install the input shaft to the
gear case cover.
ZJ205

„NOTE: Make sure to install the slider blocks with

the rounded end up and the raised edges facing to
the outside of each other.

MS349
8
11. Install the first retaining ring onto the shift fork
shaft; then install a new oil seal.
„NOTE: It is advisable to apply a film of grease to
the oil seal prior to installing.
ZJ302

12. With the alignment marks properly positioned, 14. Apply a 1/8-in. bead of Loctite Sealant (p/n
install the shift fork arm to the shaft. Secure the 1048-059) to the sealing surfaces of the gear
arm with the remaining retaining ring. case.

8-59
 ! CAUTION
Do not add more or less than the recommended
amount of drive fluid to the gear case or damage to
the gear case will occur.

INSTALLING GEAR CASE

1. Using a Scotch Brite pad, clean the gear case/drive

unit seal-mating surface on the track driveshaft;
then thoroughly wipe clean.
„NOTE: Prior to placing the gear case onto the
ZJ207
driveshaft, apply a light coat of Arctic Cat Low-
! CAUTION Temp Snowmobile Grease (p/n 0636-593) to the
internal splines of the track driveshaft.
Care must be taken not to allow silicone sealant into
the cap screw holes and dowel pin holes or damage 2. Align the gear case output shaft with the splines of
to the gear case may occur when tightening the cap the track driveshaft and position the gear case onto
screws. the mounting studs. Making sure the sensor wires
do not become pinched under the gear case, push
15. With the dowel pins in place, install the cover to inward on the gear case until it is seated.
the gear case and secure with 13 torx-head cap
screws; then in a crisscross pattern, tighten to 3. Using a rubber mallet, lightly tap inward on the
specifications. gear case to ensure that is fully seated to the chas-
sis.
4. Loosely secure the gear case by first installing the
six lock nuts and finger tighten; then install the
torque bumper and a torx-head cap screw and the
two remaining lock nuts and tighten all the nuts to
specifications.

742-195A
16. Install the shift actuator and secure with the three
torx-head cap screws. Tighten to specifications.
Install the gear indicator switch; then tighten to
specifications.

742-018A

„NOTE: When tightening the nuts to the proper

torque factor, it is advisable to begin tightening the
nuts located on the bottom of the gear case and
working upward in a crisscross pattern until all
nuts are tightened to the proper torque factor.

5. Connect shift actuator harness (A) and gear indica-

tor switch harness (B).

ZJ186A
17. Pour 354 ml (12 fl oz) of Arctic Cat ACT Drive
Fluid (p/n 4639-025) into the drain/fill hole; then
install the plug. Tighten securely.

8-60
 10. Install the 16 mm cap screw (coated with blue
Loctite #243) securing the driveshaft to the gear
case output shaft; then tighten to specifications.

ZJ183A
6. Slide the driven pulley onto the input shaft making
sure alignment washers are in place.
0742-020
! CAUTION 11. Install the side panels.
It is critical that the no less than two 1.5 mm (0.060
in.) washers are in place on the input shaft when „NOTE: If the track was loosened to aid in remov-
installing the driven pulley. ing the gear case, tighten track to proper tension
and alignment.
7. Secure the driven pulley with components and
hardware as noted in removing. Tighten to specifi-
cations. Drive Train/Brake Disc
(Crossfire/M-Series)

Removing Gear Case............................................ 8-61

Removing Track Driveshaft ................................... 8-62
Installing Track Driveshaft ..................................... 8-64
Disassembling Gear Case..................................... 8-66
Cleaning and Inspecting Gear Case ..................... 8-68
Removing Drive Sprockets .................................... 8-69
Installing Drive Sprockets...................................... 8-69
Assembling Gear Case ......................................... 8-71
Installing Gear Case.............................................. 8-73

ZJ250A REMOVING GEAR CASE

8. Install the drive belt.
„NOTE: The gear case drive fluid does not have to
„NOTE: For installing drive belt, see Removing/
Installing Drive Belt (ACT Roller Driven Pulley) in
be drained for this procedure.
8
this section. 1. Remove the access panels from both sides of the
snowmobile.
9. Install the toe shield and toe hook bracket; then
install the torx-head cap screws. Tighten securely. „NOTE: At this point, engage the brake lever lock.

2. Remove the belt guard; then using a 9/16-in.

socket and extension, remove the cap screw secur-
ing the driven pulley to the driven shaft. Remove
the pulley from the driven shaft.

0742-089

8-61
 5. Loosen but do not remove the 16 mm cap screw
(from the brake disc side of the inner driveshaft)
securing the driveshaft to the gear case.
.

MS291

„NOTE: Account for and remove any alignment

washers. These washers must be used during
installing. 742-020A
6. Remove the lock nuts securing the gear case to the
3. Remove the left-side footrest cover; then discon- chassis; then remove the remaining lock nut and
nect the plug-ins for the shift actuator (A) and the torx-head cap screw.
gear indicator switch (B).

0742-017
FS268A
7. Place the snowmobile in the upright position; then
„NOTE: Either elevate the snowmobile off the floor using a 16 mm socket, long extension, and a soft
with a suitable lift or tip the snowmobile on its hammer, tap against the driveshaft cap screw until
right side positioning the gear case side of the the gear case is free from the studs of the mounting
snowmobile up. Place a piece of cardboard under
plate.
the side of the snowmobile to prevent scratching 8. Remove the cap screw from the inner driveshaft
of bumper and belly pan. (from step 5); then remove the gear case.
4. Release the pressure on the torque bumper „NOTE: If the gear case is difficult to remove, it
(located between the gear case and left-side engine may be necessary to loosen the track tension.
plate) by lifting upward on the engine plate with a
short pry bar; then remove the bumper. REMOVING TRACK DRIVESHAFT

„NOTE: The gear case drive fluid does not have to

be drained for this procedure.

1. Remove the access panels from both sides of the

snowmobile.
2. Remove the springs securing the resonator; then
remove from the engine compartment.
„NOTE: At this point, engage the brake lever lock.

3. Remove the two cap screws securing the speedom-

eter sensor bracket. Account for two spacers.
MS299

8-62
 ZJ210A AG624DA
4. Loosen but do not remove the 16 mm cap screw 7. Remove the rear cap screws securing the skid
(from the brake disc side of the inner driveshaft) frame to the tunnel. Account for lock washers and
securing the driveshaft to the gear case. flat washers.
8. Remove the front cap screws securing the skid
.

frame to the tunnel. Account for a flat washer and

a lock nut.
9. Tip the snowmobile onto the right side positioning
the gear case side of the snowmobile up. Place a
piece of cardboard under the side of the snowmo-
bile to protect against scratching. Remove the skid
frame.
10. Using a 9/16-in. socket and extension, remove the
cap screw securing the driven pulley to the driven
shaft.
742-020A
5. Using Brake Disc Socket Wrench (p/n 0644-481),
remove the retaining nut from the driveshaft.

ZJ182A
8
11. Slide the driven pulley off the driven shaft.
„NOTE: After removing the driven pulley, account
ZJ211 for the cap screw and washers, sheave adjuster,
6. Using the Rear Suspension Spring Tool (p/n 0144- alignment washers, and O-ring from outside the
311), remove the spring from the adjusting cam. pulley; then from the input shaft, remove the two
1.5 mm (0.060 in.) washers along with any other
! WARNING alignment washers. These washers must be used
Care must be taken when removing the spring or during installing.
damage or injury could result.
12. Remove the left-side footrest cover; then discon-
nect the plug-ins for the shift actuator (A) and the
gear indicator switch (B).

8-63
 INSTALLING TRACK DRIVESHAFT

„NOTE: Prior to installing the driveshaft, apply a

coat of Anti-Seize Thread Compound (p/n 0678-
146) to the internal splines of the driveshaft.

FS268A
13. Remove the seven lock nuts securing the gear case
to the chassis; then remove the remaining lock nut
and torx-head cap screw.

ZJ213A
1. Place the track/driveshaft assembly into the bear-
ing of the brake housing just far enough to allow
the brake disc to be installed in the brake housing
assembly.

0742-017
14. Place the snowmobile in the upright position; then
using a 16 mm socket, long extension, and a soft
hammer, tap against the driveshaft cap screw until
the gear case is free from the studs of the mounting
plate.
15. Remove the cap screw from the inner driveshaft
(from step 4); then remove the gear case. ZJ214A

„NOTE: If the gear case is difficult to remove, it „NOTE: Prior to installing the driveshaft, ensure
may be necessary to loosen the track tension. that the bearing spacer is positioned to the inner
bore of the brake caliper housing.
16. With the gear case removed, pull the driveshaft
toward the gear case side of the tunnel until it 2. With the brake lever lock engaged and the brake
clears the brake caliper housing; then remove the disc positioned in the brake housing assembly, prop-
driveshaft. Account for the rubber seal. erly align the splines of the driveshaft with the brake
disc; then push the driveshaft the rest of the way
into the brake housing until it is properly seated.

ZJ212

ZJ215A

8-64
„NOTE: Prior to placing the gear case onto the
driveshaft, apply a light coat of Anti-Seize Thread
Compound (p/n 0678-146) to the splines of the ring
gear shaft.

3. Place the gear case onto the driveshaft; then press

the gear case toward the sprocket until it properly
seats into place on the chassis. It may be necessary
to rotate the driveshaft slightly for proper seating.
4. Loosely secure the gear case by first installing the
six lock nuts and finger tighten; then install the
torque bumper and a torx-head cap screw and the
two remaining lock nuts and tighten all the nuts to MS323
specifications.
„NOTE: After the retaining nut is tightened to
specifications, peen the nut at the flat spot of the
driveshaft.

9. Secure the driveshaft to the ring gear with the cap

screw (coated with blue Loctite #243) and washer.
Tighten to specifications.

0742-017

„NOTE: When tightening the nuts to the proper

torque factor, it is advisable to begin tightening the
nuts located on the bottom of the gear case and
working upward in a crisscross pattern until all
nuts are tightened to the proper torque factor. 742-020A

5. Connect shift actuator harness (A) and gear indica- 10. Install the torque bumper behind the engine
tor switch harness (B); then install the left-side mounting block; then carefully work it into place
footrest cover and secure with the screws. with the aid of a flat-blade screwdriver.
11. Install the speedometer sensor mounting bracket
(with two spacers); then secure with the two cap
screws. Tighten to specifications.
12. Slide the driven pulley onto the input shaft making
8
sure alignment washers are in place.

! CAUTION
It is critical that no less than two 1.5 mm (0.060 in.)
washers are in place on the input shaft when install-
ing the driven pulley.

13. Secure the driven pulley with components and

ZJ183A hardware as noted in removing. Tighten to specifi-
6. Install the skid frame (see Section 9). cations.
7. Apply Anti-Seize Thread Compound (p/n 0678-
146) to the threads of the brake disc retaining nut;
then install the nut.
8. Using Brake Disc Socket Wrench (p/n 0644-481),
tighten the brake disc retaining nut to specifica-
tions.

8-65
 4. Remove the shift fork assembly; then remove the
retaining ring securing the shift fork arm to the
shaft and remove the arm. Account for the retain-
ing rings, O-ring, and slider blocks.

ZJ250A
14. Install the drive belt.
15. Place the access panels into position and secure
with existing hardware.
ZJ300
16. Check the track for alignment and recommended
tension; then tighten the cap screws securely (see „NOTE: For assembling purposes, note the posi-
Section 9). tion of the slider blocks on the shift fork arm.

DISASSEMBLING GEAR CASE ! CAUTION

1. Remove the torx-head cap screw securing the shift If the input shaft bearing is removed, always replace
actuator to the gear case and remove the actuator; it with a new one or severe component damage may
then remove the gear indicator switch. occur.

5. Secure the gear case cover in a suitable clamping

device; then using two flat-blade screwdrivers
from opposite sides of the cover bearing, evenly
pry the input shaft bearing up and off the shaft.

FS269A
2. Remove the 13 torx-head cap screws securing the
gear case cover to the gear case assembly; then
insert two flat-blade screwdrivers into the slots on
the gear case. Working back and forth, pry the
cover up and off the gear case. ZJ189
6. With a cap screw threaded into the input shaft and
using a soft hammer, drive the input shaft out of
the gear case cover.

0742-196
3. Drain the gear case fluid into a suitable container.

8-66
 ! CAUTION
If any transfer gear bearings are removed, always
replace them with new ones or severe component
damage may occur.

9. Place the gear case on its side; then using a soft

hammer, tap the output shaft until the slider and
output gear assembly come free of the gear case.

ZJ190
7. Using a suitable bearing press and fixture, press
the input shaft bearing out of the gear case cover.
Account for a bearing and a seal.

ZJ193

10. Remove the output gear assembly from the slider

housing.

ZJ191

ZJ194
11. Using a suitable bearing puller, remove the inner
bearing from the transfer gear assembly. Account
for a spacer washer.
8
MS331
8. Secure the gear case in a suitable clamping device;
then using the procedure from step 5, remove the
outer bearing from the transfer gear.

ZJ195
12. Remove the transfer gear from the planetary gear
assembly and account for the thrust washer and
thrust bearing.
ZJ192

8-67
 ZJ196 ZJ204

„NOTE: For assembling purposes, note that the

CLEANING AND INSPECTING GEAR
thrust bearing is positioned between the thrust
washer and the gear assembly.
CASE

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

„NOTE: The planetary gear assembly is a non-ser-

viceable component. If any damage or wear is
detected, it must be replaced.

1. Wash the gear case halves in parts-cleaning sol-

vent.
2. Inspect the gear case halves for scoring, pitting,
scuffing, or any imperfections in the casting.
ZJ197 3. Inspect all threaded areas for damaged or stripped
13. Remove the retaining ring and thrust washer threads.
securing the slider housing assembly to the output 4. Inspect the bearing areas for cracks or excessive
shaft assembly. bearing movement. If evidence of excessive bear-
ing movement is noted, replace the component.
5. Inspect the sealing surfaces of the gear case halves
for trueness.
6. Wash the unsealed gear case bearings in parts-
cleaning solvent.
7. Inspect the input shaft/transfer gear bearings for
wear, scoring, scuffing, damage, or discoloration.
Rotate the bearings. Bearings must rotate freely
and must not bind or feel rough. If any abnormal
condition is noted, replace the bearing.
„NOTE: The output shaft bearing is a non-service-
ZJ200
able component. If any damage or binding is
14. Using a suitable puller, remove the bearing from noted, the output shaft assembly must be
the output shaft.
replaced.
15. Using a suitable seal removing tool, remove the
output shaft seals from the gear case. 8. Apply a light film of Arctic Cat ACT Drive Fluid
(p/n 4639-025) to the unsealed bearings prior to
assembling.

8-68
REMOVING DRIVE SPROCKETS

„NOTE: The drive sprockets must be removed

from the gear case end of the driveshaft.

ZJ218A

Cleaning and Inspecting

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

ZJ216A cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
1. For installing purposes, scribe a line on the drive- necessary.
shaft (A) next to the drive sprocket for proper
alignment; then scribe a line on the driveshaft 1. Thoroughly wash all metallic components in parts-
directly in line with the timing arrows (B) on the cleaning solvent. Dry using compressed air.
drive sprockets for proper sprocket timing.
2. Wash all non-metallic components with soap and
water.
3. Inspect the driveshaft for damaged splines or
stripped threads.
4. Inspect the seals for any breaks or damage.
5. Inspect the track for cuts, gouges, or wear.
6. Inspect the brake disc for wear or cracks.
7. Inspect the track drive sprockets for wear or dam-
age.

MS357A INSTALLING DRIVE SPROCKETS

2. Using a suitable press positioned against the ten- „NOTE: The drive sprockets must be installed on
sion-collar of the drive sprocket (located on the
gear case) and of the driveshaft, press the drive the gear case end of the driveshaft.
sprockets off the driveshaft.
8

ZJ216A
ZJ217
„NOTE: Prior to installing the sprockets onto the
! CAUTION driveshaft, it is advisable to lightly chamfer the
inside edge of the sprocket to avoid binding.
Always press against the tension-collar of the drive
sprockets or damage to the components will occur.

8-69
 MS362 MS359A
1. Properly align the scribed line on the driveshaft 4. Using a calipers, measure distances between the
(from removing) with the timing arrow on the sprockets and from the sprockets to each end of
drive sprocket; then slide the sprocket onto the the driveshaft for proper location (see illustra-
driveshaft as far as it will go. tions).

Crossfire

MS360A 0742-367
2. Using a suitable press and fixture, press the drive-
shaft into the sprocket until it aligns with the line M-Series
scribed in removing.

0742-366

MS361A
3. Slide the remaining sprocket onto the driveshaft
making sure the timing arrow/lines (from remov-
ing) are aligned; then using the press/fixture, press
the sprocket to the remaining alignment line.

! CAUTION
Always press against the tension-collar of the drive
sprockets or damage to the components will occur.

MS364

8-70
ASSEMBLING GEAR CASE

1. Using an appropriate seal installation tool, install

the oil seal into the output shaft opening of the
gear case.
„NOTE: Grease must be applied to the seal prior
to installing.

ZJ196

ZJ204
2. Place the output shaft assembly into position in the
slider housing; then secure the assembly to the
housing with the thrust washer and retaining ring.

ZJ197
5. Position the planetary gear assembly onto the
transfer gear shaft; then install the spacer washer.
Using a suitable press, install the inner bearing
onto the transfer gear shaft.

ZJ200
3. Using a suitable bearing press, install the bearing
onto the ring gear.
8
ZJ208
6. Install the output gear assembly into the slider
assembly until the inner bearing is properly seated.

ZJ199
4. In order, install the thrust washer and then the
thrust bearing onto the transfer gear shaft.

ZJ194

8-71
 7. With the alignment notches of the slider and gear
case properly positioned, install the slider/output
gear assembly into the gear case.

ZJ204
10. Using a suitable press, install the input shaft to the
gear case cover.
ZJ201
8. Using a suitable bearing press, install the outer
bearing onto the transfer gear shaft.

MS349
11. Install the first retaining ring onto the shift fork
shaft; then install a new oil seal.
ZJ199 „NOTE: It is advisable to apply a film of grease to
9. Using a suitable bearing press and fixture, install the oil seal prior to installing.
the input shaft bearing to the gear case; then install
the oil seal. 12. With the alignment marks properly positioned,
install the shift fork arm to the shaft. Secure the
„NOTE: Grease must be applied to the seal prior arm with the remaining retaining ring.
to installing.

ZJ301A
ZJ202 13. Install the slider blocks to the shift fork assembly;
then install the fork assembly into the slider and
gear case.

8-72
 ZJ205 0742-196

„NOTE: Make sure to install the slider blocks with 16. Install the shift actuator and secure with the torx-
the rounded end up and the raised edges facing to
head cap screw. Tighten to specifications. Install
the gear indicator switch; then tighten to specifica-
the outside of each other. tions.

ZJ302 FS269A
14. Apply a 1/8-in. bead of Loctite Sealant (p/n 17. Pour 354 ml (12 fl oz) of Arctic Cat ACT Drive
1048-059) to the sealing surfaces of the gear Fluid (p/n 4639-025) into the drain/fill hole; then
case. install the plug. Tighten securely.

! CAUTION
Do not add more or less than the recommended
amount of drive fluid to the gear case or damage to
the gear case will occur.

INSTALLING GEAR CASE 8

1. Using a Scotch Brite pad, clean the gear case/drive
unit seal-mating surface on the track driveshaft;
then thoroughly wipe clean.
„NOTE: Prior to placing the gear case onto the
ZJ207 driveshaft, apply a light coat of Arctic Cat Low-
Temp Snowmobile Grease (p/n 0636-593) to the
! CAUTION
internal splines of the track driveshaft.
Care must be taken not to allow silicone sealant into
the cap screw holes and dowel pin holes or damage 2. Align the gear case output shaft with the splines of
to the gear case may occur when tightening the cap the track driveshaft and position the gear case onto
screws. the mounting studs. Making sure the sensor wire
does not become pinched under the gear case,
15. With the dowel pins in place, install the cover to push inward on the gear case until it is seated.
the gear case and secure with 13 torx-head cap
screws; then in a crisscross pattern, tighten to 3. Using a rubber mallet, lightly tap inward on the
specifications. gear case to ensure that is fully seated to the chas-
sis.

8-73
 4. Loosely secure the gear case by first installing the
six lock nuts and finger tighten; then install a torx-
head cap screw and the two remaining lock nuts.
Tighten all the nuts to specifications.

FS268A
7. Slide the driven pulley onto the driven shaft mak-
ing sure alignment washers are in place.

0742-017 ! CAUTION
„NOTE: When tightening the nuts to the proper It is critical that no less than two 1.5 mm (0.060 in.)
torque factor, it is advisable to begin tightening the washers are in place on the input shaft when install-
nuts located on the bottom of the gear case and ing the drain pulley.
working upward until all nuts are tightened to the
8. Secure the driven pulley with components and
proper torque factor. hardware as noted in removing. Tighten to specifi-
cations.
5. Install the torque bumper behind the engine
mounting bracket; then carefully work it into place
with the aid of a flat-blade screwdriver.

ZJ250A
9. Install the drive belt.
MS299
„NOTE: For installing drive belt, see Removing/
„NOTE: Use of a quality silicone spray will aid in Installing Drive Belt (ACT Roller Driven Pulley) in
installing the torque bumper. this section.

6. Connect shift actuator harness (A) and gear indica- 10. Install the 16 mm cap screw (coated with blue
tor swich harness (B); then install the left-side Loctite #243) securing the driveshaft to the gear
footrest cover and secure with the screws. case output shaft; then tighten to specifications.

8-74
 742-020A AF417
11. Install the drive belt guard and side panels. 3. Remove the adjuster stem from the end of the
adjuster screw.
„NOTE: If the track was loosened to aid in remov-
ing the gear case, tighten track to proper tension
and alignment.

Chain Adjuster

„NOTE: Some photographs used in this sub-sec-

tion are used for clarity purposes only and are not
designed to depict actual conditions.

REMOVING AND DISASSEMBLING

AF418
1. Remove the small plug from the adjuster housing
and install an 8-32 set screw into the threaded hole 4. Using a small piece of wire, remove the small
of the adjuster housing. spring from the end of the adjuster screw.

8
AF416 AF401

2. Using a 3/4-in. wrench, remove the chain adjuster 5. While holding the end cap in position, remove the
from the chain case. three cap screws securing the end cap to the
adjuster housing.

8-75
 AF419 AF422
6. Slowly and carefully lift the end cap from the 10. Rotate the adjuster bolt counterclockwise until it is
adjuster housing until it is free of the hooked end free of the housing; then remove the adjuster bolt.
of the spring.

AF423
AF420 11. Wash all components in parts-cleaning solvent and
7. Remove the O-ring seal from the adjuster housing. inspect all components for any signs of wear.
8. Carefully lift the spring from the housing and ASSEMBLING AND INSTALLING
secure the spring using a cable tie.
1. Apply a light coat of oil to the threads of the
adjuster bolt; then turn the adjuster bolt clockwise
into the housing a few turns.

AF421
9. Remove the set screw from the adjuster housing;
then remove the adjuster socket from the housing
by pulling it free of the adjuster bolt. AF423
2. Slide the adjuster socket over the end of the
adjuster bolt and push the socket down firmly into
position. Rotate the adjuster socket clockwise until
its flange seats against the housing inner surface.

8-76
 5. With the spring in position, remove the cable tie
used to prevent it from unwrapping.
6. Place the O-ring seal into position; then set the end
cap into position. Make sure its tab is hooked into
the end of the spring.

AF424
3. With the flat surface of the adjuster socket located
under the threaded hole in the housing, install an
8-32 set screw.

AF405
7. While holding the end cap down into position,
rotate the end cap 20 turns clockwise to tension the
spring.

AF403

AF400
8. Install the three cap screws (coated with blue Loc-
tite #243) and tighten to 1 kg-m (7 ft-lb).

8
AF425
4. Install the bent tab of the spring into the slot of the
adjuster socket with the outer hooked end of the
spring positioned in the clockwise direction.

AF419
9. Apply a thin coat of grease to the spring and place
the spring into position in the end of the adjuster
bolt.

AF406

8-77
 AF401 AF416
10. Use a thin coat of grease on the stem shaft to hold
it in position; then place the stem into the end of
the adjuster bolt. Brake System
(Hydraulic)

CHECKING BRAKE LEVER TRAVEL

1. Compress the brake lever fully.

„NOTE: Do not pump the brake lever as it will pro-
duce an inaccurate reading.

2. Measure the distance between the brake lever and

the handlebar. The distance must be greater than
2.54 cm (1 in.).

AF418
11. Securely tighten the adjuster assembly to the chain
case.

740-159B

AF417
12. Remove the set screw from the adjuster housing
and install the cap screw.

741-328C

8-78
3. If the distance is less than specified, check the
brake fluid level (see Checking and Adding Brake ! WARNING
Fluid in this sub-section), inspect for leakage, and Do not overfill the master cylinder reservoir. Overfill-
check the brake pads (see Checking and Replacing ing the reservoir may cause the brake system to
Brake Pads in this sub-section). hydraulically lock. Use only approved brake fluid.
Never substitute or mix different types or grades of
! WARNING brake fluid. Brake loss may occur. Brake loss can
result in severe injury or even death.
Do not operate the snowmobile if the distance
between the compressed brake lever and handlebar CHANGING BRAKE FLUID
is less than 2.54 cm (1 in.). Brake loss may occur.
Brake loss can result in severe personal injury. The brake fluid must be changed on a regular basis
and/or whenever the brake fluid has been overheated
CHECKING AND ADDING BRAKE or contaminated. The brake fluid should be changed
FLUID every 1000 miles or at the end of the snowmobiling
season, whichever occurs first.
1. With the master cylinder in a level position, check
fluid level in the reservoir. The brake fluid level Arctic Cat recommends the removal and disassembly
must be just below the high mark. of the brake caliper assembly when changing the brake
fluid (see Removing/Installing Caliper in this sub-sec-
tion).

! CAUTION
Brake fluid is highly corrosive. Do not spill brake
fluid on any surface of the snowmobile.

! WARNING
Use only Arctic Cat approved brake fluid. Any sub-
stitute may result in a loss of brakes.

1. Slide a piece of flexible tubing over the ball of the

bleeder valve and direct the other end into a con-
740-159A tainer.

STD

8
741-328D
730-434H
2. If the brake fluid level is below the low mark,
remove the reservoir cover and add approved ACT
brake fluid until the fluid level is just below the
high mark. Install and secure the reservoir cover.
DO NOT allow moisture to contaminate the brake
system.

! CAUTION
Brake fluid is highly corrosive. Do not spill brake
fluid on any surface of the snowmobile.

739-269B

8-79
 2. Slowly compress the brake lever and hold. Open
STD
the bleeder valve to release the fluid; then com-
press the brake lever repeatedly until all brake
fluid is expelled. Close the bleeder valve.
3. Add new approved brake fluid to the reservoir;
then compress the brake lever and hold. Open the
bleeder valve. Repeat the compression until brake
fluid flows free of air bubbles and appears clean.
„NOTE: It may be necessary to refill the reservoir
a number of times to eliminate all air bubbles in
the system.
730-434H
4. When the brake fluid is free of all air and the brake
lever feels firm when compressed, fill the reser- ACT
voir to a level just below the high mark; then
install and secure the cover. Remove the tube from
the bleeder valve.
5. Proceed to bleed the brake system (see Bleeding
Brake System in this sub-section).
BLEEDING BRAKE SYSTEM

If the brake lever feels spongy when applied, the brake

system may need to be bled. To bleed the brake sys-
tem, use the following procedure.
739-269B
1. Remove the master cylinder reservoir cover and
fill the reservoir to the high mark with approved 3. Slowly compress the brake lever and hold. Open
brake fluid. the bleeder valve to release the fluid and air. When
the fluid stops flowing, close the bleeder valve;
then release the brake lever.
! CAUTION
4. Repeat step 3 until the brake fluid flows free of air
Brake fluid is highly corrosive. Do not spill brake bubbles.
fluid on any surface of the snowmobile.
„NOTE: It may be necessary to refill the reservoir
! WARNING during the bleeding process.
Use only approved brake fluid. Any substitute may
5. When the brake fluid is free of all air and the brake
result in a loss of brakes.
lever feels firm when compressed, fill the reser-
! WARNING voir to a level just below the high mark; then
install and secure the cover. Remove the tube from
Do not use brake fluid from a container that has the bleeder valve.
been opened for a long period of time. Unsealed
brake fluid containers will absorb moisture and can CHECKING AND REPLACING
contaminate the fluid inside. BRAKE PADS (STD)

2. Slide a piece of flexible tubing over the ball of the To check and replace the brake pads, use the following
bleeder valve and direct the other end into a con- procedure.
tainer.
1. Measure the thickness of both brake pads. The
brake pad thickness must be greater than 3.2 mm
(0.125 in.). If the brake pad thickness is less than
specified, replacement of both pads is necessary.

8-80
 6. Compress the brake lever repeatedly to ensure cor-
rect positioning of the brake pads; then release.
„NOTE: When new brake pads are installed, a bur-
nishing process is required. Drive the snowmobile
slowly and compress the brake lever repeatedly
until the pads just start to heat up; then allow them
to cool down. This process stabilizes the pad
material and extends the life of the pads.

REMOVING CALIPER (STD)

1. Slide a piece of flexible tubing over the ball of the

0730-434 bleeder valve and direct the other end into a con-
2. Remove the retaining pin securing the brake pads tainer.
to the caliper assembly.
3. Pull both brake pads out of the caliper assembly.

0730-434
2. Open the bleeder valve and compress the brake
lever several times to drain the reservoir of fluid.
AF255D
4. Using a large screwdriver, slowly push both brake 3. Remove the brake hose from the caliper. Use an
pistons into the caliper. absorbent towel to collect any remaining brake
fluid.
! CAUTION
Care must be taken not to pry against the brake disc
when pushing on the pistons or severe damage may
occur.

5. Position the new brake pads into the caliper and

secure with the retaining pin.
„NOTE: When installing new brake pads, always
8
install them as a set. Never install just one pad or
use brake pads which have been used in another
snowmobile.

AF262D

! CAUTION
Brake fluid is highly corrosive. Do not spill brake
fluid on any surface of the snowmobile.

4. Remove the retaining pin securing the brake pads

to the caliper assembly; then remove the brake
pads.

AF255D

8-81
 AF255D AF248
5. Loosen the upper cap screws securing the caliper 2. Remove the two cap screws securing the caliper
halves; then remove the two cap screws, lock halves. Account for the small O-ring.
washers, and flat washers securing the brake cali-
per to the chain case. 3. Remove the piston O-rings and discard.

! CAUTION
Never use an impact driver on models with compos-
ite chain case. Damage to the chain case will occur.

AF264

Cleaing and Inspecting

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

AF261D cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
6. Remove the caliper assembly from the engine necessary.
compartment.
1. Inspect the brake pistons for gouges, cracks, pit-
Disassembling ting, scuffing, or corrosion. If any of these condi-
tions exist, replace the piston.
1. Position a piece of wood between the pistons.
Using low-pressure compressed air, blow into the 2. Clean the piston outer surface by using a Scotch-
caliper brake hose fitting to remove the brake pis- Brite pad and clean brake fluid as a cleaner.
tons.
! CAUTION
! WARNING Do not use any sharp cleaning tool on the piston sur-
Always wear safety glasses when using compressed face as it may cause damage. Parts-cleaning solvent
air. must not be used as it can damage the piston O-ring.

8-82
 1. Apply approved brake fluid to the new O-ring;
then install the O-ring into the groove of each cali-
per half.

AF230
3. Inspect the brake caliper for gouges, cracks, pit-
ting, scuffing, or corrosion. If any of these condi-
tions exist, replace the caliper.
AF251
4. Clean the caliper inner wall surface using a soft „NOTE: Always use a new O-ring when assem-
Scotch-Brite pad and clean brake fluid. Wipe cali- bling the brake caliper.
per wall clean with a clean rag and brake fluid.
2. In each caliper half, apply approved brake fluid to
the brake piston; then while twisting, install the
piston with the open side facing out.

AF267
5. Inspect the condition of the brake pads. Replace if
damaged or worn. The brake pad thickness must
be greater than 3.2 mm (0.125 in.). If the brake AF266
pad thickness is less than specified, replacement of
both pads is necessary.
6. Inspect the brake hose for cracks and deterioration
and check the condition of the threaded connec-
tors. 8
Assembling

AF269
3. Place the small O-ring into position; then assemble
the two caliper halves. Secure with the cap screws.
Do not tighten at this time.
KEY
1. Retaining Pin 5. Housing O-Ring 10. Housing
2. Cap Screw 6. O-Ring 11. Housing
3. Washer 7. Piston 12. Cap Screw
4. Brake Caliper 8. Bleed Screw 13. Lock Washer
Assy 9. Brake Pad Set 14. Washer
736-850A

8-83
 AF264 AF255D

INSTALLING CALIPER (STD)

1. Secure the caliper assembly on the chain case

using two cap screws, lock washers, and flat wash-
ers. Tighten the cap screws to specifications.
Tighten the upper cap screws to specifications.

AF237D
4. Bleed the brake system (see Bleeding Brake Sys-
tem in this sub-section).
„NOTE: If new brake pads were installed, a bur-
nishing process is required. Drive the snowmobile
slowly and compress the brake lever repeatedly
until the pads just start to heat up; then allow them
AF261D
to cool down. This process stabilizes the pad
2. Install the brake hose on the caliper and tighten material and extends the life of the pads.
securely.
CHECKING AND REPLACING
BRAKE PADS (ACT)

To check and replace the brake pads, use the following

procedure.
1. Remove the brake fluid reservoir cover; then
remove most of the brake fluid from the reservoir.
Replace the cover.
„NOTE: The above procedure will allow room for
the fluid from the caliper when the pistons are
pushed into the caliper for installing new brake
pads. Replacing the cover will prevent fluid spill-
AF262D
age.
3. Install the brake pads. Secure with the retaining
pin. 2. Open the right-side access panel and remove the
springs and hairpin clip securing the resonator;
then remove it from the engine compartment.
„NOTE: Measure the thickness of both brake
pads. The brake pad thickness must be greater
than 5.0 mm (0.20 in.). If the brake pad thickness is
less than specified, replacement of both pads is
necessary.

8-84
 7. Repeat steps 4-6 for the other pad; then secure the
pads with the pin and hairpin clip.

0739-269
3. Remove the hairpin clip from the brake pad retain-
ing pin; then remove the pin.
ZJ223
8. Remove the reservoir cover and remove the remain-
ing fluid; then fill the reservoir with fresh fluid.
9. Pump the brake lever to ensure correct positioning
of the brake pads; then release.
10. Fill the reservoir to the proper level with fresh
brake fluid.
„NOTE: When new brake pads are installed, a
“burnishing” process is required. Drive the snow-
mobile slowly and compress the brake lever sev-
eral times until the pads just start to warm up; then
allow them to cool down. This procedure stabilizes
ZJ222
the pad material and extends the life of the pads.
„NOTE: When installing new brake pads, always
install them as a set. Never install just one pad or BRAKE CALIPER/BRAKE DISC/
use brake pads which have been used in another DRIVESHAFT BEARING (ACT)
snowmobile.
Removing/Disassembling
4. Using a pair of pliers, pull one brake pad out of the
caliper assembly. 1. Open the right-side access panel; then remove the
springs and hairpin clip securing the resonator to
„NOTE: Changing one pad at a time will prevent the exhaust pipe and chassis. Remove the resonator.
one piston from pushing out the other piston from
the caliper. 2. Remove the torx-head cap screws securing the toe
shield and hook bracket to the chassis; then
remove the shield and bracket. 8
3. Remove the two torx-head cap screws securing the
speedometer sensor mounting bracket to the cali-
per assembly; then disconnect the harness plug-in.
Remove the sensor and bracket.

ZJ224
5. Using a flat-blade tool, slowly and carefully push
the piston into the caliper.
6. Position the new brake pads into the caliper.

ZJ210A

8-85
 4. Engage the brake lever lock; then using Brake
Disc Socket Wrench (p/n 0644-481), remove the
retaining nut from the driveshaft.

ZJ219A

! CAUTION
If the caliper housings are to be separated at this
ZJ211
time, take care not to allow any contaminants into
5. Slide a piece of flexible tubing over the ball of the the fluid passages of the calipers.
bleeder valve and direct the other end into a con-
tainer. „NOTE: To aid in removing the inner caliper hous-
ing, completely loosen track tension.

9. Remove the four lock nuts (A) and the Phillips-

head cap screw with lock nut (B) securing the cali-
per housing assembly to the chassis; then remove
the inside caliper housing along with the brake
disc from the driveshaft. Account for the caliper
spacer and the disc spacer.

739-269B

! CAUTION
Brake fluid is highly corrosive. Do not spill brake
fluid on any surface of the snowmobile.

6. Open the bleeder valve and compress the brake

lever several times to drain the reservoir of fluid.
740-188A
7. Remove the brake hose from the caliper. Use an
absorbent towel to collect any remaining brake 10. If the bearings are to be replaced with the caliper
fluid. housing secured in a suitable vise, drive the outer
bearing out of the housing by using a hammer and
8. Disengage the brake lever lock and remove the sharp flat punch. Tap evenly in a crisscross pattern
hairpin clip and pin securing the brake pads; then on the inner race of the bearing until the bearing is
remove both pads. out of the housing. Account for the spacer.
„NOTE: If servicing the brake disc only, remove „NOTE: Never reuse bearings that have been
the two remaining torx-head cap screws securing removed. Always use new bearings.
the caliper housings together; then remove the
outside housing. Account for the O-ring.

8-86
 13. Position a piece of wood between the pistons.
Using low-pressure compressed air, blow into the
caliper brake hose fitting to remove the brake pis-
tons.

! WARNING
Always wear safety glasses when using compressed
air.

ZJ226

! CAUTION
Use care not to bind the bearing in the caliper hous-
ing when removing or damage to the housing may
occur.

11. Remove the retaining ring securing the inner bear-

ing in the caliper housing.
ZJ228A

„NOTE: Remove the two remaining torx-head cap

screws securing the caliper halves. Account for
the small O-ring.

ZJ245
12. If bearings are to be replaced, place the caliper
housing in a suitable clamping device; then using a
press, remove the inner bearing from the housing.

MS320A
14. Remove the pistons and O-rings; then discard the
O-rings. 8

ZJ240

„NOTE: Never reuse bearings that have been

removed. Always use new bearings.

„NOTE: If the caliper housings were separated for ZJ229

disassembling purposes, they must be secured

together with the small O-ring installed between
the inner and outer housings.

8-87
 ZJ230 AF230
3. Inspect the piston bore of the inner and outer brake
calipers for gouges, cracks, pitting, scuffing, or
corrosion. If any of these conditions exist, replace
the caliper.
4. Clean the caliper inner wall surface using a soft
lint-free cloth and clean brake fluid.

! CAUTION
Care must be taken not to allow any contaminants
into the fluid passages of the calipers or brake sys-
tem malfunction may occur.
ZJ251A

Cleaning and Inspecting

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Inspect the brake pistons for gouges, cracks, pit-

ting, scuffing, or corrosion. If any of these condi-
tions exist, replace the piston.
„NOTE: The inner and outer caliper housings are
not serviceable components. If either or both are
ZJ225A
defective or damaged, the complete caliper assem-
bly must be replaced.

2. Clean the piston outer surface by using a soft

Scotch-Brite pad and clean brake fluid as a
cleaner.

! CAUTION
Do not use any sharp cleaning tool on the piston
surface or in the O-ring groove as it may cause dam-
age. Parts-cleaning solvent must not be used as it
can damage the piston O-ring.

MS320A
5. Inspect the condition of the brake pads. Replace if
damaged or worn. The brake pad thickness must
be greater than 5.0 mm (0.020 in.). If the brake pad
thickness is less than specified, replacement of
both pads is necessary.

8-88
 0739-269 ZJ230
6. Inspect the brake hose for cracks and deterioration „NOTE: To aid in installing the piston, make sure
and check the condition of the threaded connec- the piston O-ring is properly seated in the groove
tors.
of the caliper housing.
Assembling/Installing
3. Place the small O-ring into position; then assemble
1. Apply approved brake fluid to the new O-ring; the two caliper halves. Secure with the two torx-
then install the O-ring into the groove of each cali- head cap screws. Tighten only until snug.
per half.

ZJ231A

ZJ231 „NOTE: Always use a new O-ring and make sure

the O-ring is properly seated in the outer brake
! CAUTION housing.
Never reuse piston O-rings. Always install new O-
rings when installing pistons in the brake caliper.

2. In each caliper half, apply approved brake fluid to

the brake piston; then while twisting, install the
8
piston with the dished side facing out.

MS320A
4. Using a suitable press, install a new inner bearing
into the caliper housing until it is properly seated.

ZJ229

8-89
 ZJ241 ZJ244

! CAUTION ! CAUTION
When installing a bearing, always press on the outer When installing a bearing, always press on the outer
race of the bearing. race of the bearing.

„NOTE: For aid in installing the outer bearing, it is

advisable to insert a length of shaft (the same
diameter as the bearing inner bore) through the
inner bearing, spacer, and outer bearing to main-
tain proper alignment of the spacer for driveshaft
installation.

ZJ239A
5. Install the snap ring securing the inner bearing in
the caliper housing.

ZJ242

ZJ245
6. Install the bearing spacer; then press a new outer
bearing into the caliper housing until it is properly
seated.
ZJ243
7. Apply Anti-Seize Thread Compound (p/n 0678-
146) to the splines of the brake disc; then with the
brake caliper spacer properly installed, slide the
caliper onto the driveshaft far enough to install the
spacer and brake disc.

8-90
 „NOTE: Always use a new O-ring and make sure
the O-ring is properly seated in the outer brake
housing.

ZJ232

MS320A

ZJ233
8. With the brake disc splines and driveshaft splines
aligned, use a soft hammer and tap the caliper
from side to side until the caliper is properly
seated to the tunnel. ZJ219A
11. Install the brake pads; then secure the brake pads
9. Install the Phillips-head cap screw and lock nut with the retaining pin and hairpin clip.
(B); then install the four lock nuts (A). Tighten to
specifications. 12. Bleed the brake system (see Bleeding Brake Sys-
tem in this sub-section).
13. Engage the brake lever lock; then using Brake
Disc Socket Wrench (p/n 0644-481), tighten the
brake disc retaining nut (from step 10) to specifi-
cations.
„NOTE: The brake lever lock must be engaged for
this procedure.
8

740-188A
10. Apply Anti-Seize Thread Compound (p/n 0678-
146) to the threads of the brake disc retaining nut;
then install the nut.
„NOTE: At this point, tighten the retaining nut only
until snug.

„NOTE: If the outer caliper housing was removed

during disassembling, install a new O-ring and MS323
place the housing into position; then secure with 14. Install the speedometer sensor mounting bracket to
the two Allen-head cap screws. Tighten to specifi- the caliper housing with the two remaining torx-
cations. head cap screws; then tighten to specifications.

8-91
 ZJ210A AF201D
15. Connect the harness connector to the speedometer 3. Place an absorbent towel around the connection to
sensor plug-in. absorb brake fluid. Remove the brake fluid hose
from the master cylinder.
16. Install the toe shield and toe hook bracket; then
install the torx-head cap screws. Tighten securely.
17. Place the expansion chamber and resonator into
position and secure with the springs and the hair-
pin clip.
18. Adjust track alignment and tension (see Section 9).

Brake Lever/Master
Cylinder Assembly
(Hydraulic System - STD)
FC258
„NOTE: If servicing the Panther 570, see Brake
Lever/Master Cylinder Assembly (ACT/Panther ! CAUTION
570) in this section. Brake fluid is highly corrosive. Do not spill brake
fluid on any surface of the snowmobile.
REMOVING
4. Remove the two torx-head screws and clamp
1. Slide a piece of flexible tubing over the ball of the securing the brake assembly to the handlebar; then
bleeder valve and direct the other end into a con- remove the assembly from the handlebar.
tainer. Remove the reservoir cover; then open the
bleeder valve. Allow the brake fluid to drain com-
pletely.

STD

FC259

DISASSEMBLING
730-434H
2. To remove the switch, use a small screwdriver to 1. Remove the screw and lock nut securing the brake
compress the plastic locking tabs by pushing in on lever.
the tabs; then slide the switch free of the brake
control.

8-92
 AF202 AF206
2. Remove the two screws securing the reservoir 3. Inspect the reservoir for cracks and leakage.
cover; then remove the cover.
4. Inspect the brake fluid hose for cracks, deteriora-
tion, and the condition of the fittings (threaded and
compression).
ASSEMBLING

AF204
3. Remove the two screws securing the reservoir to
the master cylinder.
4. Compress the locking tabs of the reservoir and
remove the reservoir from the master cylinder. AF207
Account for an O-ring seal. 1. Apply approved high temperature brake fluid to
the O-ring seal; then install the seal on the reser-
voir.
2. Install the reservoir on the master cylinder. Secure
with two screws.

AF205

INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is AF205

necessary.

1. Inspect the screw securing the brake lever for wear

and for cracked, stretched, or damaged threads.
2. Inspect the O-ring for deterioration and distortion.

8-93
 3. Install the brake lever. Secure with a screw and a
new lock nut. Tighten the lock nut just to the point
of ensuring free brake lever movement.
Brake Lever/Master
Cylinder Assembly
! WARNING (ACT/Panther 570)
Do not over-tighten the lock nut. Over-tightening the
lock nut will cause the brake lever to bind. The lever
must work freely and fully return to its stop after
installation.

AF202

! WARNING 0742-152

A new lock nut must be used to secure the brake REMOVING

lever.
1. Slide a piece of flexible tubing over the ball of the
INSTALLING bleeder valve and direct the other end into a con-
tainer. Remove the two torx-head screws (G)
1. Position the brake assembly on the handlebar. securing the reservoir cover and remove the reser-
Secure with two torx-head machine screws and voir cover; then open the bleeder valve. Allow the
clamp; tighten securely. brake fluid to drain completely.
2. Install the hose on the master cylinder. Tighten
securely.

739-269C

AF911D
3. Slide the brakelight switch into the brake control
until the self-locking tabs snap into position.
Lightly pull on the switch to make sure it is prop-
erly secured.
4. Bleed the brake system (see Brake System -
Hydraulic sub-section).

8-94
 INSTALLING
Panther 570

730-434H
2. Place an absorbent towel around the connection to
absorb brake fluid. Remove the banjo-fitting bolt
(A) securing the brake fluid hose (B) to the master
cylinder. Discard the two crush washers.

! CAUTION
Brake fluid is highly corrosive. Do not spill brake
fluid on any surface of the snowmobile.
0742-152
3. Remove the snap ring (C) and pin (D) securing the
brake lever to the master cylinder. 1. Position the brake assembly on the handlebar.
Secure with two torx-head screws (F) and clamp;
4. Using a small screwdriver, compress the tabs of tighten securely.
the brakelight switch (E) to release it from the
master cylinder. 2. Install the brake fluid hose (B) to the master cylin-
der with the banjo-fitting bolt (A) and two new
5. Remove the two torx-head screws (F) and clamp crush washers. Tighten securely.
securing the brake reservoir to the handlebar; then
place a towel over the reservoir and remove the ! CAUTION
assembly from the handlebar.
Always use new crush washers when installing the
INSPECTING brake fluid hose.

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively, 3. Install the brakelight switch (E) to the master cyl-
inder.
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary. 4. Install the brake lever; then secure with pin (D)
and snap ring (C).
1. Inspect the snap ring and pin securing the brake

8
lever for wear or damage; then inspect the brake 5. Place the reservoir cover onto the master cylinder
lever for cracks or damage. reservoir; then secure with the two torx-head
screws (G).
2. Inspect the master cylinder reservoir and cover for
cracks and leakage. 6. Bleed the brake system (see Bleeding Brake Sys-
tem in this sub-section).
„NOTE: The master cylinder is a non-serviceable
component. If any wear or damage is detected, the
master cylinder must be replaced. Brake System
(Mechanical/Quick-Adjust)
3. Inspect the brake fluid hose for cracks, deteriora-
tion, and the condition of the fittings (threaded and
compression). REMOVING

1. Remove the cotter pin, washer, pin, and clevis

from the brake actuator arm.

8-95
 AF297D AF318A
2. Remove the recoil starter rope from the brake 2. Remove the brake pad support plate.
cable bracket.
3. Loosen the jam nut on the brake cable and remove
the cable from the bracket.
4. Loosen and remove the two mounting cap screws
(account for the front alignment ball) and remove
the brake caliper.

AF356
3. Remove the stationary brake pad.

AF460D

AF354
4. Remove the movable brake pad.
5. Remove the brake piston.

AF293D

DISASSEMBLING

1. Remove the snap ring on the stationary side of the

caliper.

AF353

8-96
6. Remove the brake actuator arm return spring.

AF328
10. Remove the adjustment bolt and spring from the
AF351A
quick-adjust knob.
7. Loosen and remove the three cap screws securing
the brake cable bracket and remove the bracket.

AF333
11. On the rear of the caliper, loosen and remove the
AF326
jam nut, washer, spring, and ball assembly.
8. Remove the brake actuator arm assembly from the
caliper.

8
AF331

AF283
CLEANING AND INSPECTING
9. Pull out on the quick-adjust knob and turn counter-
clockwise to remove. „NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Using a calipers, measure the stationary and mov-

able brake pads. The movable brake pad thickness
must exceed 12.7 mm (0.500 in.). The stationary
brake pad thickness must exceed 6.22 mm
(0.245 in.).

8-97
 0730-504 AF327

„NOTE: When replacing brake pads, always 3. Insert the adjustment bolt with spring and quick-
replace both pads as a set.
adjust knob into the actuator assembly and turn in
2 or 3 turns.
2. Wash all brake components with parts-cleaning
solvent and dry thoroughly.
3. Inspect all brake components for signs of wear,
fatigue, cracks, or stripped threads.
4. Inspect the spring for cracks, stretching, or
unusual bends.
5. Inspect the brake cable for any signs of fraying or
broken strands. Replace as needed.
ASSEMBLING

1. In the rear mounting hole of the caliper, tempo- AF329

rarily install the mounting cap screw. In sequence, 4. With the actuator shaft arm in the 11 o’clock posi-
install the alignment ball (apply a small amount of tion (located over the front mounting hole), install
grease to the ball), spring, washer, and jam nut. the actuator shaft into the brake caliper assembly.
Turn the jam nut in until slight spring pressure is
felt; then remove the mounting cap screw.

AF338

AF331
5. Place the brake cable bracket and rope guide into
position and secure with the three cap screws and
2. Apply Arctic Cat All-Temperature Grease (p/n lock washers.
0636-593) to the actuator shaft.

8-98
 AF352A AF320
6. Install the brake arm actuator return spring. 9. Install the snap ring into the caliper making sure
that the sharp edge of the snap ring faces out and
the opening faces down.

! WARNING
Be sure the snap ring is fully seated. Personal injury
may result if the snap ring isnt seated properly
within the slot of the caliper.

AF351A
7. Install the brake piston making sure that the slot in
the piston aligns with the roll pin in the caliper.

AF318A
10. Install the brake pad support plate with the large
tab located in the opening of the snap ring.

8
AF325A
8. Install the movable (thick) brake pad into the cali-
per making sure that the slot in the pad aligns with
the roll pin in the caliper.

AF322
11. Install the stationary (thin) brake pad into the cali-
per making sure the slot in the pad aligns with the
small tab on the support plate. Use a rubber band
to hold the pad and plate in position.

8-99
INSTALLING

1. With the rubber band holding the stationary pad and

support plate in position, install the caliper assem-
bly over the brake disc. Remove the rubber band.

AF458D
4. Place the brake cable into the rear slot of the brake
cable bracket and tighten securely.

AF321A

! CAUTION
Make sure that the brake pads are properly posi-
tioned in the caliper or damage to the brake system
will result.

2. Apply blue Loctite #243 to the rear mounting cap

screw with washer and install. DO NOT
TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME.

AF462D
5. Insert the cable end into the rear slot of the clevis.
Install the pin through the clevis and actuator arm;
then install the washer. Install a new cotter pin into
the clevis pin and spread the cotter pin.

AF460D
3. Apply a small amount of grease to the alignment
ball and install into the front of the caliper. Apply
blue Loctite #243 to the front cap screw with
washer; then install and tighten both cap screws to
specifications.
AF340
6. Pull out on the quick-adjust knob and turn clock-
wise until there is 6-13 mm (1/4-1/2 in.) free-play
at the brake lever.

AF293D

8-100
 ! WARNING
Before making any adjustment, make certain the
brake quick-adjust knob isnt hot. If the snowmobile
has just been used, allow some time for the knob to
cool or burns may result.

3. To decrease brake lever travel (set up brake), pull

out on the spring-loaded quick-adjust knob and
rotate the knob clockwise periodically checking
the brake lever travel distance until the correct
travel distance is attained. Once the correct brake
0727-451
lever travel has been obtained, release the knob
into a secured position.
7. Set the brake lever lock; then securely tighten the
jam nut on the upper mounting cap screw. „NOTE: If the quick-adjust knob has reached its
maximum adjustment (cannot be rotated any fur-
ther clockwise), both brake pads must be replaced.

! WARNING
DO NOT attempt to adjust the brake with the flange
nuts on the brake cable bracket. Incorrect brake
adjustment may occur causing possible brake fail-
ure.

AF298
8. Release the brake lever lock and recheck the brake
lever free-play (adjust as needed); then place the
recoil starter rope into the guide portion of the
brake cable bracket.
ADJUSTING BRAKE LEVER TRAVEL

1. Rotate the brake disc alternately forward and

backward while slowly compressing the brake 0730-151
lever.
4. To increase brake lever travel (loosen the brake),
2. At the point where the disc is locked, check the pull out on the quick-adjust knob and rotate the
distance between the brake lever and lever stop.
The distance must be within a range of 6-13 mm
knob counterclockwise periodically checking the
brake lever travel. Once the desired brake lever 8
(1/4-1/2 in.). travel is obtained, release the knob into a secured
position.
REPLACING BRAKE PADS

! CAUTION
The brake pads must be replaced as a set. Do not
under any circumstances ever replace only one of
the brake pads.

1. Using a 1/2-in. socket, remove the front brake

assembly guide pin. Slowly pull the pin from the
assembly and catch the alignment ball as it drops
from the hole in the front of the caliper assembly.
0727-451
2. Remove the rear guide pin; then slide the brake
caliper assembly forward free of the brake disc.

8-101
 3. Remove the stationary brake pad from the caliper
assembly.
4. Tip the caliper on its side and allow the movable
brake pad to drop free of the caliper assembly.
5. Place the new movable brake pad into position;
then temporarily secure with a rubber band to hold
it in place.
6. With the backing plate in position (wide tab posi-
tioned between the snap ring ears), install the sta-
tionary brake pad making sure the notch in the pad
is aligned with small tab of the backing plate.
Using a rubber band, temporarily secure the pad. AL137D

7. Place the brake assembly back into position over

the brake disc. Apply green Loctite #609 to the
rear guide pin; then install the rear guide pin.
8. Insert the alignment ball into the hole at the front
of the caliper, apply green Loctite #609 to the front
guide pin, and install the front guide pin. Tighten
the two alignment pins to specifications. Cut and
remove the two rubber bands.
„NOTE: When new brake pads have been
installed, a burnishing process is required. Drive
the snowmobile slowly and compress the brake
lever repeatedly until the pads just start to heat up; AL138D

then allow them to cool down. This process stabi- 3. Loosen the jam nut securing the brake cable to the
lizes the pad material and extends the life of the brake cable bracket.
pads.

Brake Control
(Mechanical/Quick-Adjust)

REMOVING AND DISASSEMBLING

1. Remove the Phillips-head screws securing the

handlebar pad to the handlebar.

AF462D
4. Disconnect the brake cable from the seat in the
brake lever and remove the lever; then slide the
brake cable free of the brake control.

AL136D
2. Remove the retaining ring, washer, and pin secur-
ing the brake lever.

AL140D

8-102
 5. Remove the brake lever from the brake control
housing.
6. Remove the four screws securing the console; then
raise the console to gain access to the main wiring
harness.
7. Disconnect the brake control wiring harness from
the main wiring harness.

AL143D
2. Connect the wiring harness at the console.
3. Connect the brake control wiring harness to the
main wiring harness; then secure the harnesses
with cable ties.

AL141D
8. Cut the cable ties holding the wiring harnesses and
cables to the steering post noting their locations
for installing purposes.
9. Using a sharp knife, cut the grip off the handlebar;
then using a solvent, clean adhesive from the han-
dlebar.
10. Remove the machine screw securing the brake
control to the handlebar; then slide the brake con-
trol off the handlebar. AL141D
4. Place the console into position and secure with
four screws making sure all wiring harnesses are
positioned under the console.
„NOTE: Secure wiring harnesses and cables to
the steering post with cable ties as noted in remov-
ing.

5. Connect the end of the brake cable to the seat of

the brake lever.
8

AL143D

ASSEMBLING AND INSTALLING

1. Slide the brake control onto the handlebar and

secure with the machine screw.

AL140D
6. Secure the brake cable to the bracket by tightening
the jam nut.

8-103
 AF462D AL137D
7. Secure the brake lever with the pin, washer, and 8. Secure the handlebar pad to the handlebar with the
retaining ring. Phillips-head screws.
9. Apply Handlebar Grip Adhesive (p/n 0636-071) to
the bore of the handlebar grip; then using a rubber
hammer, drive the grip into position.

! WARNING
The handlebar adhesive is extremely flammable. The
product contains acetone and the vapors, when
released, can be easily ignited. Keep away from
heat, sparks, and open flame. Use only in a well-ven-
tilated area. Avoid prolonged breathing of vapor.
Avoid eye and skin contact. Keep container closed
when not in use.
AL138D

8-104
 Troubleshooting Drive
Clutch/Driven Pulley

Problem: Midrange Shift-Up (Too Quickly - Lowers RPM)

Condition Remedy
1. Drive clutch spring weak 1. Replace drive clutch spring
2. Driven pulley spring weak 2. Replace driven pulley spring
3. Driven pulley spring preload tension inadequate 3. Increase spring preload tension
4. Center-to-center distance too close 4. Adjust center-to-center distance
5. Driven pulley bearing worn — damaged 5. Replace bearing — movable sheave
Problem: Midrange Shift-Up (Too Slowly - Raises RPM)
Condition Remedy
1. Drive clutch components dirty 1. Clean drive clutch components
2. Driven pulley components dirty 2. Clean driven pulley components
3. Driven pulley spring preload tension excessive 3. Decrease spring preload tension
4. Driven pulley bearing worn — dirty 4. Clean — replace bearing — movable sheave
Problem: Excessive Belt Deposits
Condition Remedy
1. Offset adjusted incorrectly 1. Adjust offset
2. Drive clutch/driven pulley sheaves rough — dam- 2. Repair — replace — clean drive clutch/driven pulley
aged — dirty
3. Driven pulley movable sheave travel impaired 3. Service driven pulley
4. Driven pulley bearing worn — dirty 4. Clean — replace bearing — movable sheave
Problem: Excessive Belt Drag—Impaired Drive Clutch Disengagement
Condition Remedy
1. Drive clutch components dirty — damaged 1. Clean — replace drive clutch components
2. Drive belt does not meet measurement specifications 2. Replace drive belt
Problem: Engine RPM Suddenly Increases—Drive Clutch Vibrates
Condition Remedy
1. Cam arm pin bent — damaged
2. Cam arm damaged — broken
1. Replace pin
2. Replace cam arm
8
3. Drive clutch out of balance 3. Align — replace components — drive clutch
Problem: Driven Pulley Vibrates
Condition Remedy
1. Sheave rivets loose — broken 1. Replace sheave
2. Driven pulley out of balance 2. Service — replace driven pulley

8-105
Problem: Drive Clutch Engagement (Before Specified RPM)
Condition Remedy
1. Drive clutch spring weak — bent 1. Replace spring
2. Cam arms incorrect — worn 2. Replace cam arms
Problem: Drive Clutch Engagement (After Specified RPM)
Condition Remedy
1. Drive clutch spring incorrect 1. Replace spring
2. Spider buttons worn 2. Replace buttons
Problem: Drive Clutch Sticks
Condition Remedy
1. Drive clutch components dirty 1. Clean drive clutch components
2. Movable sheave bent — binding 2. Clean — replace movable sheave
3. Spider buttons worn 3. Replace buttons
Problem: Drive Clutch Jerks—Shifts Erratically
Condition Remedy
1. Drive clutch dirty 1. Clean — drive clutch components
2. Rollers worn 2. Replace rollers
3. Cam arms rough 3. Polish — replace cam arms
4. Spider buttons worn 4. Replace buttons
5. Sheaves dirty 5. Clean sheaves

Troubleshooting
Drive Belt

Problem: Drive Belt Glazed

Condition Remedy
1. Drive belt does not meet measurement specifications 1. Replace drive belt
2. Drive clutch spring tension inadequate 2. Replace drive clutch spring
3. Drive clutch components dirty — damaged 3. Clean — replace drive clutch
4. Offset — parallelism — center-to-center distance 4. Adjust offset — parallelism — center-to-center dis-
adjusted incorrectly tance
Problem: Drive Belt Lugs Torn Off—Frayed—Worn in One Spot
Condition Remedy
1. Drive belt does not meet measurement specifications 1. Replace drive belt
2. Offset — parallelism — center-to-center distance 2. Adjust offset — parallelism — center-to-center dis-
adjusted incorrectly tance
3. Drive clutch engagement — idle RPM too high 3. Service drive clutch — reduce idle RPM
4. Drive clutch components dirty — damaged 4. Clean — replace drive clutch components
5. Driven pulley/shaft rotation impaired 5. Service driven pulley/shaft — chain-case components
6. Drive belt damaged from improper break-in 6. Replace drive belt

8-106
 Troubleshooting
Hydraulic Brake System

Problem: Caliper Leaks

Condition Remedy
1. Caliper O-ring deteriorated — severed 1. Replace O-ring
2. Piston — O-ring damaged 2. Repair piston — replace piston — O-ring
Problem: Lever Spongy — Bottoms Out
Condition Remedy
1. Brake system air bubbles present 1. Bleed brake system
2. Master cylinder damaged — faulty 2. Replace master cylinder
Problem: Oscillation Feedback in Lever
Condition Remedy
1. Brake pad residue present on brake disc 1. Replace pads — clean disc
2. Caliper loose 2. Tighten mounting bolts
3. Brake disc warped — cracked — damaged — mis- 3. Replace disc — driven shaft bearing
aligned
Problem: Loss of Brake
Condition Remedy
1. Brake fluid overheated — contaminated 1. Replace fluid
2. Master cylinder damaged — faulty 2. Replace master cylinder
3. Caliper — brake hose leaking 3. Replace caliper O-ring — repair piston —replace pis-
ton — O-ring — brake hose
4. Air ducts obstructed — missing 4. Remove obstruction — replace air ducts
5. Brake lever linkage damaged 5. Repair — replace lever — mounting bolt
Problem: Brakes Drag
Condition Remedy
1. Master cylinder damaged — faulty 1. Replace master cylinder
2. Brake disc warped — damaged — misaligned 2. Replace disc — driven shaft bearing
3. Brake pads worn — tapered 3. Replace pads
Problem: Snowmobile Won’t Stop — Have to Pull Too Hard on Lever
8
Condition Remedy
1. Pads/brake disc glazed 1. Replace pads — clean disc
2. Brake lever binding 2. Loosen pivot bolt — replace master cylinder
3. Caliper pistons binding 3. Service caliper assembly

8-107
SECTION 9 — TRACK/REAR
SUSPENSION

TABLE OF
CONTENTS

Understanding the Suspension ............................... 9-2

Suspension Setup Basics ....................................... 9-3
Suspension Mounting Location Chart ..................... 9-6
Torque Specifications .............................................. 9-6
Chassis and Skid Frame
Mounting Locations.............................................. 9-7
Servicing Chart ..................................................... 9-10
Repair Procedure 1 ............................................... 9-10
Repair Procedure 2 ............................................... 9-40
Repair Procedure 3 ............................................... 9-72
Repair Procedure 4 ............................................. 9-104
Drive Sprocket Locations .................................... 9-133
2007 Idler Wheel Selection Chart ....................... 9-137
2007 Non-Rebuildable Shock Absorber
Specifications Chart ......................................... 9-137
2007 Front Suspension Ski Springs

9
Specifications Chart ......................................... 9-138
2007 Front Suspension Sway Bar
Specifications Chart ......................................... 9-138
2007 Rear Suspension Specifications Charts..... 9-138
Shock & Spring Chart - 2007 Models.................. 9-139
2007 Track Specifications Chart.......................... 9-140
Track Warranty Guidelines .................................. 9-140
Rebuildable Shock Tools Required...................... 9-141
2007 Rebuildable Shock Specifications .............. 9-141
Servicing ACT Shock .......................................... 9-145
Servicing Position Sensitive Shock ..................... 9-148
Rebuilding/Recharging Fox Air Shocks ............... 9-152
Servicing Fox Zero Pro Shock Absorbers ........... 9-158
Shaft Eyelet ......................................................... 9-163
Pressurizing Rebuildable Shocks........................ 9-163
Troubleshooting Track ......................................... 9-164

9-1
 Understanding the Suspension
GENERAL Under acceleration when the center of gravity is trans-
ferred to the rear of the machine, the rear suspension
Quick acceleration and the ability to go through the collapses slightly. This brings the rear arm point down-
turns with power are the most important handling ward and with the front arm stationary, the teeter-totter
qualities. This section explains how the skid frame effect reduces the pressure on the skis, position A.
functions to provide these two important handling
qualities. Before proceeding, however, note these However, for controlled cornering, more pressure is
terms. needed on the skis. So when the driver decelerates
coming into a corner, the center of gravity is trans-
Weight Transfer — A shift in the center of gravity in ferred forward, putting the required pressure onto the
any direction depends on the force applied. skis and reducing the pressure on the rear suspension,
position C.
Track Tension — The amount of tightness or loose-
ness of the track when correctly mounted in the chas-
sis.
Spring Tension — The amount of force exerted on the
spring by either fork tension adjustment or eyebolt
adjustment.
Ski Pressure — The amount of force exerted down-
ward on the skis.
Good weight transfer characteristics are needed for
fast acceleration (shift of weight from skis to track)
and for cornering (shift of weight back to skis to hold
the front end in turns). Effective weight transfer
depends on suspension tension, position of rider, and 0728-181
the position of the front arm limiter. This is essentially what weight transfer is all about —
the shift of weight to the rear of the machine for posi-
To understand how the suspension system works, think tive traction and good acceleration or to the front of the
of the entire system in terms of three points; the skid machine for positive handling and cornering control.
frame rear axle center, the skid frame front arm, and
the ski saddle center.
Assume that the front arm functions as a stationary
pivot point between the rear axle center and the ski
saddle center. Also assume that the ski saddle center is
the same height off the ground as the rear axle center.
This produces the standard position arrangement.

0728-180

9-2
 Suspension Setup Basics
FRONT ARM SPRING TENSION The two limiter straps can be shortened if desired. This
adjustment must be made to suit driving style and some
„NOTE: Read the following information closely as test driving time. With the rear arm in its present mount-
it pertains to all suspensions used in the last sev- ing location, no advantage has been noted from chang-
eral years. ing the strap length. If the front arm straps are
shortened, the result will be more ski pressure and
It is desirable to run with very light front arm spring aggressive steering.
tension. When riding in 4 in. or more of snow, the
machine will be quicker if the front spring tension is SKI SHOCK ABSORBER SPRINGS
adjusted lightly.
The shock absorber springs have been matched to the
If the spring tension is adjusted too stiff, the track shock valving and rear suspension. These springs are
angle at the front of the skid frame is steep. This steep the result of hours of testing and comparison riding
angle prevents the snowmobile from getting up on trying many different combinations of springs and
plane and slows down by 5 to 8 mph. shocks. If there is a need to make changes, there are
several spring and shock sizes to choose from. While
When riding in sticky snow (springtime or warm days) making these changes, keep the following points in
or hill climbing on hard snow, it may be desirable to mind.
stiffen the front arm spring tension. When this is done,
weight is transferred back quicker. The problem with Heavier Or Stiffer Springs
too much front arm spring tension is that the feel of the
snowmobile becomes very short. The reason for this is 1. These will require shocks with more rebound con-
the front arm becomes the pivot point between the trol, or the front end will become like a pogo stick.
spindles and rear of the snowmobile. With dominant
spring tension on the front arm, the suspension is basi- 2. With stiffer springs, the front end will become
cally contacting the snow from a point below the front more aggressive in the corners as more weight will
arm to the skis or the spindle pressure point. This be transferred to the skis when decelerating. Also,
makes for a very short and darting snowmobile on the more weight is transferred to the rear on accelera-
trail. This is especially true when decelerating and the tion and can cause the rear shocks and spring to
center of gravity is transferred forward. bottom out.
A good method for adjusting the front spring tension 3. If the springs are too stiff for general riding condi-
follows. tions and style, the ride comfort is gone.
„NOTE: On those models having a coil spring over Spring Tension Too Soft
the front arm shock absorber, the spring tension
should be set as soft as possible when operating 1. Front end bottoms out; hard on front end parts.
on trails and in deep snow.
2. Less aggressive steering in corners on decelera-
tion, and less weight is transferred to the skis
because of softer springs.
3. Less weight gets transferred to rear of the machine
upon acceleration.
„NOTE: When softening the ski springs, also
soften the rear to match entire suspension. 9
! CAUTION
If the ski shock spring is adjusted too loose, the
spring retainer may fall out. If the spring is adjusted
beyond specification, the spring will coil bind and
0729-662 spring adjuster damage will occur.

FRONT ARM LIMITER STRAPS

Under no circumstances should the front arm limiter

strap be lengthened. If lengthened, it may cause shock
absorber travel problems.

9-3
ADJUSTING FRONT SHOCKS „NOTE: A tight front arm works well under only
(Fox Air Shocks) two conditions: sticky snow conditions in the
spring of the year and in hill climbing on hard
The air shocks are individually adjustable for the terrain packed snow.
conditions and driving style of the operator. The shocks
are initially preset at 4.6 kg/cm2 (65 psi) on the Cross- With the front arm adjusted too soft, the spring may
fire Sno Pro/F-Series Sno Pro and 4.2 kg/cm2 (60 psi) come off the roller.
on the M-Series Sno Pro; however, it is possible to “fine
tune” the shocks to match the operator’s weight, riding REAR ARM SPRING TENSION
style, and terrain conditions.
The rear spring tension is adjusted for the weight of
„NOTE: Care should be taken to have equal pres- the driver. There are three possible adjustments.
sure in the shocks before operating the snowmo-
bile. 1st block position - set for up to 150 lb
2nd block position - set for 150 to 200 lb
To increase or decrease air pressure, use the following
procedure. 3rd block position - set for over 200 lb
„NOTE: Adding air pressure will increase the air
spring force; reducing air pressure will decrease
air spring force.

! WARNING
Do not exceed 105 kg/cm2 (150 psi) in the shock.

1. Remove the air valve cap from the shock.

2. Thread the valve of Air Shock Pump (p/n 2603-
614) onto the shock air valve approximately six
rotations.
727-720A
„NOTE: As the pump is being attached to the
REAR ARM MOUNTING POSITION
shock, the hose will fill with air. This will result in a
(Between Rails)
lower gauge pressure 0.14-3.52 kg/cm2 (2-5 psi).
There are several mounting holes found in the rails for
3. To decrease air pressure in the shock, press the installing the rear arm.
black bleed valve button half way down and hold
until desired pressure is attained. The holes have been added to the suspension to pro-
vide adjustment to fine-tune the suspension to driving
„NOTE: Pressing the button fully down and releas- styles.
ing it will allow only a small amount of air to
escape (micro-adjust). If the ride is too soft, moving the rear arm back
between the rails will stiffen the ride. By moving the
4. To increase air pressure in the shock, pump until rear arm forward, it will collapse quicker and allow
desired pressure is attained. more transfer of weight to the back of the suspension.
This will also affect the handling by providing a softer
5. Remove the pump valve from the shock air valve. ride and also easier steering.
„NOTE: As the pump valve is being removed from The drawbacks of moving the rear arm forward are
the shock, the sound of air loss is from the pump that the suspension may bottom out quicker and some
hose, not from the shock. travel is lost.
„NOTE: When making any changes to the front or
6. Install the air valve cap onto the shock. rear suspension, the change should be made at
FRONT ARM SPRING TENSION both ends to keep the suspension balanced. For
example, installing stiffer springs in front may
TOO STIFF
require installing the next step stiffer spring in
1. Slows machine down in loose snow. back to keep everything in balance.

2. Causes the snowmobile to dart and dive as a result

of less track on the ground on deceleration.

9-4
ADJUSTING REAR ARM COUPLER 3. Place a 4-in. block of wood under the rear of the
(Groove Style) suspension just in front of the rear idler wheels.
This will assist in collapsing the suspension.
„NOTE: The couplers are installed in the 2-groove
position at production.
4. Collapse the rear suspension until the rear arm is
firmly against the coupler blocks. This will align
the two blocks squarely with the arm. While in this
The rear arm coupler provides advantages over the position, tighten the two cap screws securing the
standard suspension. blocks.
First, with the coupler system, ski lift under accelera-
tion is greatly reduced which provides improved han- ADJUSTING REAR ARM COUPLER
dling. Second, when riding through rough terrain, the (Number Style)
rear suspension arm receives some needed assistance
from the front arm shock and spring. This happens as The rear arm coupler provides advantages over the
the rear arm is fully collapsed and locked up by the standard suspension.
coupler blocks. The front arm then starts to collapse
the shocks and spring which assist the rear springs. First, with the coupler system, ski lift under acceleration
The result is a smoother ride for the operator. is greatly reduced which provides improved handling.
Second, when riding through rough terrain, the rear sus-
Each of the coupler blocks has four positions (notched pension arm receives some needed assistance from the
grooves on the outside surface of the block). When front arm shock and spring. This happens as the rear
changing the block position, change both to the same arm is fully collapsed and locked up by the coupler
groove number. To make coupler adjustment, follow blocks. The front arm then starts to collapse the shocks
the procedure below. and spring which assist the rear springs. The result is a
smoother ride for the operator.
1. Using a 9/16-in. wrench, loosen the two cap
screws that secure the coupler blocks to the inside If additional coupler action is desired, the coupler
of the suspension rails. blocks can be set to the number 2 or 3 position. Each
of the coupler blocks has three positions numbered on
2. Rotate the coupler blocks to the desired position the inside surface of the block. When changing the
making sure both are set the same. block position, change both to the same number. To
make the coupler adjustment, follow the procedure
below.
1. Using an 8 mm Allen-wrench, loosen the two cap
screws that secure the coupler blocks to the inside
of the suspension rails.
2. Rotate the coupler blocks to the desired position
making sure both are set the same.

738-230B

„NOTE: When setting the block, the chosen groove

position must be directed toward the idler arm.
9

738-230A
3. Place a 4-in. block of wood under the rear of the
suspension just in front of the rear idler wheels.
This will assist in collapsing the suspension.
4. Collapse the rear suspension until the rear arm is
firmly against the coupler blocks. This will align
the two blocks squarely with the arm. While in this
position, tighten the two cap screws securely.
738-230C

9-5
 Suspension Mounting Location Chart
„NOTE: The Rear Arm Mounting Position refers to where the rear arm mounts into the tunnel. The Rear
Arm To Rail Position refers to where the lower portion of the rear arm mounts between the slide rails.

FRONT ARM REAR ARM REAR ARM SHOCK

TRACK LENGTH
MODEL MOUNTING MOUNTING TO RAIL LINK ROD
& LUG HEIGHT
POSITION POSITION POSITION LENGTH
Bearcat 570 Model* 15" x 156" x 1.00" Upper Above Running Board No Adjustment 12.600 in. (320.04 mm)
Crossfire Models* 15" x 136" x 1.25" Upper Above Running Board No Adjustment 12.200 in. (309.88 mm)
Panther Models* 15" x 136" x 1.00" Upper Below Running Board No Adjustment 12.200 in. (309.88 mm)
Z 370 Models* 15" x 121" x .750" Upper Above Running Board Second Hole Back 11.750 in. (298.45 mm)
Z 570 Models* 15" x 121" x .850" Upper Above Running Board Second Hole Back 11.750 in. (298.45 mm)
F-Series Models* 13.5" x 128" x 1.00" Upper (Slider Axle) Below Running Board No Adjustment 11.750 in. (298.45 mm)
M6 Model 15" x 141" x 2.25" Upper Below Running Board No Adjustment 11.750 in. (298.45 mm)
15" x 153" x 2.25"
M8/M1000 Models 15" x 141" x 2.25" Upper Below Running Board No Adjustment 11.750 in. (298.45 mm)
15" x 153" x 2.25"
15" x 162" x 2.25"
* w/Torque Sensing Link
Torque Specifications
ITEM TORQUE ITEM TORQUE
End Cap ft-lb 7 Front Inner Idler Wheel Assy ft-lb 40
kg-m 1.0 (Bearcat/Panther/Z) kg-m 5.5
Wear Strip/Rail ft-lb 5 Front Rail Support/Rail* ft-lb 30
kg-m 0.7 (Crossfire/F-Series/M-Series) kg-m 4.2
Idler Wheel/Mounting Block ft-lb 34 Front Arm/Mounting Bracket ft-lb 40
(Upper/Lower) kg-m 4.7 (Bearcat/Panther/Z) kg-m 5.5
Spring Slide Block/Rail ft-lb 34 Front Arm/Mounting Bracket ft-lb 34
kg-m 4.7 (Crossfire) kg-m 4.7
Pivot Idler/Idler Arm ft-lb 18 Limiter Strap ft-lb 10
kg-m 2.5 kg-m 1.4
Rear Arm/Rail ft-lb 40 Rail Support/Rail* ft-lb 50
kg-m 5.5 (Bearcat/Panther/Z) kg-m 6.9
Rear Arm/Idler Arm* ft-lb 45 Rear Arm/Idler Arm ft-lb 34
(Bearcat/M-Series/Panther/Z) kg-m 6.2 (Crossfire/F-Series/M-Series) kg-m 4.7
Rear Axle/Idler Wheel* ft-lb 50 Track Adjuster Bracket/Rail ft-lb 10
kg-m 6.9 kg-m 1.4
Rear Axle/Idler Wheel (F-Series) ft-lb 40 Rear Arm Limiter/Rail* ft-lb 50
kg-m 5.5 kg-m 6.9
Front Arm Mounting Bracket/Rail ft-lb 30 Front Arm Shock Axle/Rail ft-lb 40
(Bearcat/Crossfire/Panther/Z) kg-m 4.2 kg-m 5.5
Front Arm/Rail (F-Series) ft-lb 30 Front Shock Pivot Axle ft-lb 40
kg-m 4.2 kg-m 5.5
Front Arm/Rail ft-lb 50
(M-Series) kg-m 6.9
* w/Blue Loctite #243

9-6
 Chassis and Skid Frame Mounting Locations
The suspensions have several possible mounting loca-
tions in the slide rails and tunnel. However, it is rec- ! CAUTION
ommended by Arctic Cat Inc. that when disassembling
It is extremely important that all stock mounting
and assembling the suspension, all stock mounting
locations be used as shown in the following illustra- locations be used. If any alterations to the skid
tions. frame are made, shock absorber and suspension
damage may occur.

Z 370/570 Models

739-214A

F-Series Models

0742-140

9-7
 Panther Models

735-315A

Bearcat 570

0739-989

9-8
Crossfire Models

0740-887

M-Series Models

739-828A

9-9
 Servicing Chart

This chart is designed to direct the technician to the

appropriate Repair Procedure for servicing the rear
suspension. Select the snowmobile model from the list
and follow the chart to attain the repair procedure.

Repair
Snowmobile Models
Procedure
Bearcat 570 2
FS082A
F-Series 4
2. Loosen the jam nuts and two track-tension adjust-
Crossfire/M-Series 3 ing bolts.
Panther 370/570 2
Z 370/370 LX 1
Z 570/570 LX 1

Repair Procedure 1 -
Track/Rear Suspension

This Track/Rear Suspension sub-section (Repair Pro-

cedure 1) has been organized so each procedure can be
completed individually and efficiently. Each sub-sec-
tion has (as necessary) Removing, Disassembling,
Cleaning and Inspecting, Assembling, and Installing MS062A

procedures. Some components may vary from model 3. Place a support stand under the rear bumper; then
to model. The technician should use discretion and while holding the flared bushing, remove the rear
sound judgment when removing and installing compo- cap screws securing the skid frame to the tunnel.
nents. Account for lock washers and flat washers.
„NOTE: Critical torque specifications are located „NOTE: The support stand should hold the snow-
on page 6 of this section. mobile level but not raised off the floor.

„NOTE: Some illustrations and photographs used 4. Remove the front cap screws securing the skid
in this sub-section are used for clarity purposes frame to the tunnel. Account for a flat washer and
only and are not designed to depict actual condi- a lock washer.
tions. 5. Remove the support stand; then tip the snow-
mobile onto one side using a piece of cardboard to
protect against scratching. Remove the skid frame.
Removing Skid Frame

„NOTE: Many service procedures can be per-

formed without removing the skid frame. Closely
observe the note introducing each sub-section for
this important information.

1. To avoid having the adjuster bushings binding

when loosening the track, remove the rear idler
wheel caps and loosen the cap screws on the rear
axle.

MS001

9-10
 1. Clean the slide rail using parts-cleaning solvent
Wear Strips and compressed air.

! WARNING
REMOVING Always wear an approved pair of safety glasses
when using compressed air.
„NOTE: The skid frame does not have to be
removed for this procedure; however, if wear strip 2. Inspect the slide rail for cracks. If any cracks are
binding or slide rail damage has occurred, the skid found, replace the slide rail.
frame should be removed for this procedure (see
Removing Skid Frame in this sub-section). 3. Using a straightedge, inspect the slide rail for any
unusual bends. With the slide rail removed, place
1. Remove the machine screw and lock nut securing the straightedge along the bottom surface of the
the wear strip to the front of the slide rail. slide rail. If the rail is found to be bent, it must be
replaced.

MS016B
AG536D
„NOTE: If the skid frame has been removed due to
difficulty in removing the wear strip, it may be nec- INSTALLING
essary to use a pipe wrench, start from either end,
and hook the edge of the wear strip with the pipe „NOTE: Apply a light coat of grease to the slide
wrench jaw and twist the wear strip off the slide rail surface to aid in installing a new wear strip. If
rail. Move the pipe wrench 7.5 cm (3 in.) and again there are any sharp edges on the lower portion of
twist the wear strip off the rail. Repeat this proce- the rail, use a file to remove them.
dure until the wear strip is free of the rail.
1. Align the wear strip with the openings (windows)
2. Align the wear strip with the openings (windows) in the track and from the back, start the wear strip
in the track; then using a suitable driving tool, onto the rail; then using a block of wood and a
drive the wear strip rearward off the slide rail. hammer, drive the wear strip forward into posi-
tion.

739-884A
739-884A
CLEANING AND INSPECTING 2. Secure with a machine screw and lock nut. Tighten
to specifications.
„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

9-11
 End Caps

„NOTE: The skid frame does not have to be

removed for this procedure.

REMOVING

1. Remove the lock nut, washers, and cap screw

securing the end cap.

MS290A
3. Clean both the slide rail area and the end cap. Using
compressed air, clean the areas of dirt and gravel.

! WARNING
Always wear an approved pair of safety glasses
when using compressed air.

4. Inspect the cap screw for cracked, stretched, or

damaged threads. Use a new lock nut when assem-
bling.
MS016A
2. Using a hammer, tap the end cap off the rail. INSTALLING

CLEANING AND INSPECTING 1. Position the end cap on the slide rail; then align the
hole in the end cap with the hole in the slide rail.
„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is 2. Secure with a cap screw, washers, and lock nut.
Tighten to specifications.
necessary.

1. Inspect the end cap area of the slide rail for cracks
and wear. Shock Pads

„NOTE: The skid frame does not have to be

removed for this procedure.

REMOVING

„NOTE: The shock pads should be removed only if

being replaced.

1. Using a 3/16-in. drill bit, drill out the rivets secur-

ing each shock pad to the slide rail. Account for
the retaining brackets.

MS017A
2. Inspect the end cap for any signs of cracking or
wear.

AG476D

9-12
2. Remove the shock pads.
INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Inspect the pads and retaining brackets for damage

or wear.
2. Inspect the rivet holes in the slide rail for damage
or elongation.
MS002A
INSTALLING

1. Place the pads and retaining brackets into position

on the slide rail.
2. Secure the pads with rivets.

MS003A
2. If applicable, note the locations of the shim wash-
ers for assembly purposes. The shim washers are
to be installed to the inside of the idler wheels.

AG531D

Front Outer
Idler Wheels

„NOTE: The skid frame does not have to be

removed for this procedure.

REMOVING

1. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the MS004

front outer idler wheel and the idler wheel mount-

ing block. Account for flat washers and two shim
„NOTE: On the idler wheels with inserts, account
for a spacer.
9
washers (if applicable).

MS005

9-13
CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Clean the bearing with a clean cloth.

2. Inspect each idler wheel and each plastic hub for
cracks or damage.
3. Rotate the idler wheel bearing (by hand) and
inspect for binding or roughness.
4. If a bearing must be replaced, use this procedure. MS008

INSTALLING
! CAUTION
Do not remove the bearing unless it is absolutely 1. Secure the mounting block on the slide rail with a
necessary. The bearing will be damaged during cap screw and lock nut. Tighten to specifications.
removal.

A. Remove the wheel insert (if applicable) and the

snap ring.
B. Using a hydraulic press, press the bearing out
the inside of the wheel.
C. Press the new bearing (on its outer race) into
the idler wheel.

MS009

„NOTE: For proper alignment, it is advisable to

install an idler wheel cap screw into the top mount-
ing block hole prior to tightening.

MS006A
D. Install the snap ring making sure the “sharp
side” is directed away from the bearing.

MS009A
2. Place the two shim washers (if applicable), idler
wheel, and axle against the mounting block mak-
ing sure there is a flat washer on the outside of the
idler wheel.

MS007A
E. Install the insert (if applicable).

9-14
 MS004 MS137

„NOTE: On idler wheels with inserts, install spac- 2. Note the location of the flat washer for assembly
ers.
purposes.

MS138
MS005
3. Secure the idler wheel assembly with a cap screw CLEANING AND INSPECTING
and a lock nut. Tighten cap screws to specifica-
tions. „NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Clean the bearing with a clean cloth.

2. Inspect each idler wheel and plastic hub for cracks
or damage.
3. Rotate the idler wheel bearings (by hand) and
inspect for binding or roughness.
4. If a bearing must be replaced, use this procedure.

! CAUTION 9
MS010
Do not remove the bearing unless it is absolutely
necessary. The bearing will be damaged during
Rear Inner Idler Wheels removal.

A. Remove the wheel insert (if applicable) and the

„NOTE: The skid frame does not have to be snap ring.
removed for this procedure. B. Using a hydraulic press, press the bearing out
the inside of the wheel.
REMOVING
C. Press the new bearing (on its outer race) into
1. Remove the cap screws, washers, and lock nuts the idler wheel.
securing the rear inner idler wheel and the idler
wheel mounting block. Account for all mounting
hardware.

9-15
 MS006A MS139
D. Install the snap ring making sure the “sharp „NOTE: For proper alignment, it is advisable to
side” is directed away from the bearing. install an idler wheel cap screw into the top mount-
ing block hole prior to tightening.

MS007A
E. Install the insert (if applicable).
MS140A
2. Place the idler wheel into position against the
mounting block making sure there is a flat washer
on the cap screw. Tighten to specifications.

MS008

INSTALLING

1. Secure the mounting block on the slide rail with a MS141

cap screw and lock nut. Tighten to specifications.

9-16
 Rear Upper Idler
Wheels/Rear Springs

„NOTE: The skid frame must be removed for this

procedure (see Removing Skid Frame in this sub-
section).

REMOVING

1. Using the Rear Suspension Spring Tool (p/n 0144-

311), remove the spring from the adjusting cam. MS064
4. Remove the idler wheel.
! WARNING
„NOTE: Use Idler Wheel Puller Kit (p/n 0644-122)
Care must be taken when removing the spring or to remove the wheel.
damage or injury could result.

MS011
AG624DA
5. Remove the cap screw and flat washer securing
2. Mark the offset pivot idler and the idler arm for the front outer idler wheel to the mounting block
assembly purposes. and remove the idler wheel.

9
MS142
MS002B
3. Remove the cap screws securing the offset pivot 6. Remove the cap screw, flat washer, and lock nut
idler arm assembly to the idler arm; then remove securing the spring slide to the slide rail. Account
the offset pivot arm idler assembly. Account for a for the spring slide and all mounting hardware.
flanged axle, flared bushing, idler spacer collar,
and lock nuts.

9-17
 4. If a bearing must be replaced, use this procedure.

! CAUTION
Do not remove the bearing unless it is absolutely
necessary. The bearing will be damaged during
removal.

A. Remove the wheel insert (if applicable) and the

snap ring.
B. Using a hydraulic press, press the bearing out
the inside of the wheel.
MS013A C. Press the new bearing (on its outer race) into
the idler wheel.

MS014
7. Remove the spring and sleeve from the idler arm.
MS006A
D. Install the snap ring making sure the “sharp
side” is directed away from the bearing.

MS145

„NOTE: Use the same procedure for the other

side. MS007A
E. Install the insert (if applicable).
INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Clean the bearing with a clean cloth.

2. Inspect each idler wheel and plastic hub for cracks
or damage.
3. Rotate the idler wheel bearings (by hand) and
inspect for binding or roughness.

MS005

9-18
5. Inspect the spring, spring slide, sleeve, washers,
slide block insert, and shaft area for wear.
6. Inspect the adjusting cams and arms for cracks.
INSTALLING

1. Slide the sleeve and spring onto the idler arm.

MS074

! CAUTION
When driving the idler wheel onto the idler arm, use
a tool to contact the inside race of the bearing or
damage to the wheel or bearing may occur.

MS145
2. Place the spring slide and slide block (with spring
in slide block) into position on the slide rail.
Secure with a cap screw, lock nut, and washer.
Tighten to specifications.

MS072A
4. Install the idler spacer collar onto the idler arm.

MS014

9
MS064
5. Place the flared bushings with a thin flat washer
through the notched side of the offset pivot idler
arm assembly.
„NOTE: If the flared bushings in the offset pivot
MS015 idler arm is loose, it must be cleaned and green
3. Install the rear upper idler wheel on the idler arm. Loctite #609 must be applied to it prior to installa-
tion.

6. Align the marks on the idler arm to the centerline

of the offset pivot idler arm assembly. Secure the
offset pivot idler arm to the idler arm with cap
screws and lock nuts. Tighten to specifications.

9-19
 „NOTE: The large flat side of the wheel insert is
positioned next to the inner plastic adjuster bush-
ing. The idler wheel must be installed with the
wheel insert properly positioned.

2. Loosen the track adjusting bolts. Slide the outer

adjuster bushings off the axle.

MS146A

„NOTE: When tightening the pivot idler arm lock

nuts, tighten the lower lock nut first or binding may
occur.

MS020

MS019B

Rear Axle and MS021

Idler Wheels 3. Carefully slide the shaft out from the inner idler
wheels and note the position of the spacers and
washers.
„NOTE: The skid frame must be removed for this
procedure (see Removing Skid Frame in this sub-
section).

DISASSEMBLING

1. Remove the cap screw and large flat washer secur-

ing the outer rear idler wheel. Remove the outer
idler wheel from the shaft.

MS022

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Clean the bearings with a clean cloth.

FC194

9-20
2. Inspect all idler wheel inserts (inner and outer) for
any cracks.
3. Inspect the outer rubber portion of the idler wheels
for cracks and poor bonding.
4. Inspect the plastic insert of each idler wheel for
cracks.
5. Inspect the shaft for wear and damaged threads.
6. Inspect all idler wheel bearings. Turn each bearing
(by hand) and if any roughness or binding is noted,
replace the bearing.
MS008
7. If a bearing must be replaced, use this procedure.
ASSEMBLING
! CAUTION
Do not remove the bearing unless it is absolutely 1. In order from the right-hand side, slide the axle
necessary. The bearing will be damaged during through the slide rail axle slot; then place a bush-
removal.
ing, inner idler wheel with insert (if applicable),
and long spacer with a flat washer on the axle.
A. Remove the wheel insert (if applicable) and the Slide the axle through the opposite slide rail axle
snap ring. slot. Place the plastic adjuster bushings on the axle
(on the outside of each axle slot).
B. Using a hydraulic press, press the bearing out
the inside of the wheel.
C. Press the new bearing (on its outer race) into
the idler wheel.

MS022

„NOTE: Make sure the slot in the adjuster bushing

is aligned directly with the adjusting bolt.

MS006A
D. Install the snap ring making sure the “sharp
side” is directed away from the bearing.

MS058A
2. Place the outer idler wheels on the axle (with the
large flat of the insert directed inward) and secure
with two cap screws (coated with blue Loctite
MS007A #243) and large flat washers. Tighten cap screws
E. Install the insert (if applicable). only until snug.

9-21
 2. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
upper shock eyelet to the idler arm. Account for a
spacer, lock nut, and bushings.

MS212

„NOTE: It is advisable to tighten the rear idler

wheel axle only until snug until the skid frame has
been installed and track tension has been MS024A
adjusted; then the axle assembly must be tight-
ened to specifications.

3. Install the skid frame (see Installing Skid Frame in

this sub-section).
„NOTE: It is advisable to install the rear arm
springs onto the adjuster blocks after the skid
frame has been installed.

4. Adjust track alignment (see Track Alignment in

this sub-section).
5. Adjust track tension deflection (see Track Tension AG553D
in this sub-section).
„NOTE: Mark the hole that the upper shock links
are mounted in for assembly purposes.
Idler Arm/Rear Arm

„NOTE: The skid frame must be removed for this

procedure (see Removing Skid Frame in this sub-
section).

DISASSEMBLING

1. Remove the rear upper idler wheels and springs

(see Rear Upper Idler Wheels/Rear Springs in this
sub-section).

MS025
3. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
upper shock links to the idler arm. Account for a
lock nut, spacer, flat washers, and axle links.

MS011

9-22
 MS026 MS012B

MS031 MS028
4. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the 5. Remove the two cap screws securing the rear arm
rear arm to the slide rail. Account for the serrated to the idler arm. Account for the aluminum axle
axles and axle tube. and bushing assemblies.

MS012A MS029A

„NOTE: If applicable, note the mounting hole from

which the rear arm was removed for assembly pur-
9
poses.

„NOTE: To remove the rear arm, it may be neces-

sary to loosen the rear arm stop.

MS030

9-23
CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Clean the bearings with a clean cloth.

2. Inspect each idler wheel for cracks or damage.
3. Inspect the bushings (located in the arm pivot
area) for wear or damage.
4. Inspect all welds and the tubing of the upper arm
for cracks or unusual bends. MS007A
E. Install the insert (if applicable).
5. Inspect the two adjusting cams for damage.
6. Rotate the idler wheel bearings (by hand) and
check for binding or roughness.
7. If a bearing must be replaced, use this procedure.

! CAUTION
Do not remove the bearing unless it is absolutely
necessary. The bearing will be damaged during
removal.

A. Remove the wheel insert (if applicable) and the

snap ring.
MS008
B. Using a hydraulic press, press the bearing out
the inside of the wheel. ASSEMBLING
C. Press the new bearing (on its outer race) into 1. Install the rear arm onto the idler arm with an alu-
the idler wheel. minum axle, bushing assemblies, and two cap
screws (coated with blue Loctite #243). Tighten
only until snug.

MS006A
D. Install the snap ring making sure the “sharp
side” is directed away from the bearing. MS029A
2. Place the rear arm assembly into position between
the slide rails. Secure with a cap screw and lock
nut. Tighten to specifications.

9-24
 MS032 MS026

„NOTE: Install the rear arm assembly into the 5. Place the upper shock eyelet with bushings
appropriate mounting hole as noted during disas-
between the idler arm brackets making sure the
spacer is properly positioned between the brack-
sembly. ets. Secure with a cap screw and lock nut. Tighten
securely.
3. Place a support beneath the rear arm; then tighten
the two cap screws (from step 1) to specifications.

MS027

MS033 „NOTE: Do not over-tighten the shock absorber

4. Position the shock links in the appropriate holes of cap screw as the shock eyelet must be free to
the idler arm brackets (see Chassis and Skid Frame pivot.
Mounting Locations in this section). Place a
spacer between the center of the brackets. Insert 6. Grease the idler arm and rear arm grease fittings
the axle links into the upper shock link eyelets; with a low-temperature grease.
then insert the cap screw with washer through the
eyelets. Secure with a cap screw, washer, and lock 7. Install the rear upper idler wheels, rear springs,
nut. Tighten securely. and offset pivot idler (see Rear Upper Idler
Wheels/Rear Springs in this sub-section).
8. Install the skid frame (see Installing Skid Frame in
this sub-section).
„NOTE: It is advisable to install the rear arm
9
springs onto the adjuster blocks after the skid
frame has been installed.

MS031

9-25
 Front Arm/Front Shock
Absorber/Front Inner
Idler Wheels

„NOTE: The skid frame must be removed for this

procedure (see Removing Skid Frame in this sub-
section), and the rear springs must be removed
from the adjusting cams.

REMOVING
MS035A

1. Remove the upper cap screws and lock nuts secur- 4. Remove the front arm and account for an axle tube
ing the limiter straps to the rail support. Account and serrated axles.
for flat washers.

MS036
MS034A 5. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
2. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the shock rod links and shock absorber to the pivot
upper front shock absorber eyelet to the front arm. assembly. Account for the cap screw and lock nut.
Pull the shock eyelet free of the bracket. Account
for a serrated axle.

MS037A
6. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
MS039A front inner idler wheel assembly to the slide rails.
3. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the From one side, gently tap the assembly rearward
front arm to the front arm mounting brackets. until the mounting blocks clear the slide rails; then
remove the assembly.

9-26
 MS040A AG691D

„NOTE: To aid in disassembling, loosen the cap

INSPECTING
screws and lock nuts securing the pivot (A) and
the front shock absorber (B). „NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Inspect all front arm weldments for cracks or

unusual bends.
2. Closely inspect all tubing for cracks or unusual
bends.
3. Inspect the bearings, bushings, and front arm spac-
ers for wear or damage.
4. Inspect the shock absorber for any signs of oil
leakage especially at the point where the shock
MS038C shaft enters the shock body.
7. With the mounting blocks and idler wheels 5. Inspect the shock absorber eyelet welds (at each
removed from the assembly, remove the cap screw end) for any cracks, signs of separation, or for
securing the front shock mounting bracket to the unthreading.
rear shock pivot. Account for an axle, cap screw,
and lock nut. 6. Inspect the shock absorber for damage.
INSTALLING

1. Secure the front shock mounting bracket in a vise;

then install the rear shock pivot with axle to the
mounting bracket with the cap screw and lock nut.
Tighten securely.

MS041A
8. Remove the cap screw securing the front shock to
the mounting bracket.

MS099

9-27
 ! CAUTION
Take care when clamping the bracket in a vise not to
damage the bracket.

2. Securely tighten the shock eyelet to the front

shock mounting bracket.

MS045
6. Position the upper shock eyelet and serrated axle
in the front arm. Secure with a cap screw and lock
nut. Tighten securely.

AG691D
3. Place the idler wheels with mounting blocks onto
the bracket assembly.

MS039A

„NOTE: Do not over-tighten the shock absorber

cap screw as the shock eyelet must be free to
pivot.

7. Place the rear shock absorber and shock links into

position on the pivot; then install the axles, cap
MS044
screw, and lock nut. Tighten securely.
4. Slide the front inner idler wheel assembly into
position on the slide rail; then align the assembly
with the proper hole (as noted in removing). Install
the cap screw, flat washer, and lock nut; then
tighten to specifications.

MS035B
8. Secure the limiter straps with cap screws, washers,
and lock nuts. Tighten to specifications.

MS040A
5. Position the front arm with spacers, an axle tube,
and serrated axles to the mounting brackets.
Secure with the cap screw and lock nut. Tighten to
specifications.

9-28
 MS034A MS035B
9. Install the skid frame (see Installing Skid Frame in „NOTE: Lay components out in order as they are
this sub-section). removed.
„NOTE: It is advisable to install the rear arm
springs onto the adjuster blocks after the skid 3. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
frame has been installed. shock absorber at the upper eyelet and remove the
shock absorber. Account for a sleeve and bush-
ings.
Rear Shock Absorber
and Shock Links

„NOTE: The skid frame must be removed for this

procedure (see Removing Skid Frame in this sub-
section).

DISASSEMBLING

1. Using the Rear Suspension Spring Tool (p/n 0144-

311), remove the spring from the adjusting cam.
MS024A
4. Mark the hole that the upper shock links are
mounted in for assembly purposes; then remove
the cap screw and lock nut securing the shock
links to the upper arm bracket. Account for all
mounting hardware.

9
AG624DA

! WARNING
Care must be taken when removing the spring from
the adjusting cam or damage or injury could result.

2. Remove the cap screw securing the lower shock

eyelet and shock links. Account for shock sleeves, MS025
axle links, and a lock nut.

9-29
CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Clean shock pivot and idler wheel axle in part-

cleaning solvent. Dry with compressed air.

! WARNING
Always wear an approved pair of safety glasses
when using compressed air.
MS007A
2. Clean the idler wheel bearings with a clean cloth. E. Install the insert (if applicable).
3. Closely inspect the idler wheel axle for wear, 7. Inspect the shock absorber for any signs of oil
bends, or damaged threads at either end. leakage especially at the point where the shock
4. Inspect the idler wheels for signs of cracking, shaft enters the shock body.
wear, or outer rubber separation from plastic 8. Inspect the rubber shock bushings located in the
wheel. shock absorber eyelets for cracks or deterioration.
5. Rotate the idler wheel bearings (by hand) and 9. Inspect the shock absorber eyelet welds (at each
inspect for any signs of binding or roughness. end) for any cracks or signs of separation.
6. If a bearing must be replaced, use this procedure. 10. Inspect the welds securing the eyelets of the shock
links for cracks or signs of separation. Either weld
! CAUTION the eyelet or replace the shock link.
Do not remove the bearing unless it is absolutely
11. Inspect the axle surfaces for any signs of corro-
necessary. The bearing will be damaged during sion. If corrosion is found, lightly buff the surface
removal. of the axle with #400 wet-or-dry sandpaper; then
apply a light coat of grease.
A. Remove the wheel insert (if applicable) and the
snap ring. ASSEMBLING
B. Using a hydraulic press, press the bearing out
the inside of the wheel. 1. Secure the shock eyelet to the idler arm with bush-
ings, sleeve, lock nut, and a cap screw. Tighten
C. Press the new bearing (on its outer race) into securely.
the idler wheel.

MS027
MS006A 2. Secure the rear shock links and the lower shock
D. Install the snap ring making sure the “sharp absorber eyelet to the shock pivot bracket by plac-
side” is directed away from the bearing. ing the bushings and shock sleeve into the shock
eyelet; then install the axle links into the rear
shock links. Secure the assembly by installing a
cap screw through the shock link assembly, shock
pivot bracket and shock eyelet assembly, and
shock link assembly. Secure the assembly with a
lock nut. Tighten securely.

9-30
„NOTE: Do not over-tighten the shock absorber
cap screw as the shock eyelet must be free to
pivot.

MS024A
5. Install the skid frame (see Installing Skid Frame in
this sub-section).
MS047 „NOTE: It is advisable to install the rear arm
3. Position the shock links in the appropriate holes of springs onto the adjuster blocks after the skid
the idler arm brackets (see Chassis and Skid Frame frame has been installed.
Mounting Locations in this section). Place a
spacer (A) between the center of the brackets.
Insert the axle links (B) into the upper shock link Slide Rails
eyelets; then insert the cap screw with washer
through the eyelets. Secure with a cap screw,
washer, and lock nut. Tighten securely. „NOTE: The skid frame must be removed for this
procedure (see Removing Skid Frame in this sub-
section).

REMOVING

„NOTE: When it is necessary to replace one or

both slide rails, it is recommended that one slide
rail be removed at a time. The remaining slide rail
will then hold the rail supports, axles, and brackets
in their correct assembly order. Always mark the
mounting hole locations during disassembly to
speed up the assembly process and to prevent any
damage. This method is much quicker than to
MS031A completely disassemble the entire skid frame. To
replace either rail, use the following procedure.

1. Remove the end cap from the slide rail. Account

for a cap screw, lock nut, and two flat washers.

MS048A
4. Install the upper shock absorber eyelet to the
appropriate hole in the idler arm as noted in disas-
sembling.
„NOTE: Do not over-tighten the shock absorber MS016A

cap screw as the shock eyelet must be free to 2. Remove the machine screw and lock nut securing
pivot. the wear strip to the front of the slide rail; then
using a suitable driving tool, drive the wear strip
rearward off the slide rail.
9-31
 MS016B MS050A

„NOTE: If binding of the wear strip occurs, it may

be necessary to use a pipe wrench, start from
either end, and hook the edge of the wear strip
with the pipe wrench jaw and twist the wear strip
off the slide rail. Move the pipe wrench 7.5 cm
(3 in.) and again twist the wear strip off the rail.
Repeat this procedure until the wear strip is free of
the rail.

3. Remove the front arm limiter straps from the front

arm of the skid frame.

MS003B
6. Account for a flat washer and two spacer washers.

MS034A
4. Remove the cap screws securing the two front rail
supports to the slide rail.
MS051
7. Remove the cap screw and flat washer securing
the spring slide to the rail. Account for a spacer
and the slide block.

MS049A
5. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the
front outer idler wheel and the idler wheel mount-
ing block.
MS052A

9-32
„NOTE: If not already done, remove the short
spring leg from the adjusting cam. Also, it is rec-
ommended that the cap screw be removed from
the front shock absorber to the front arm to aid in
slide rail installing.

8. Remove the lock nut, cap screw, and flat washer

securing the inner idler wheel assembly to the
slide rail. Discard the lock nut.
„NOTE: If it is necessary to remove the cap
screws from the center components for replacing
the slide rail, install the cap screw from the oppo-
site side into the assembly to secure components MS055A
and aid in replacing the slide rail. 11. Note the mounting positions of the rear arm limiter
(A) and rear arm (B); then remove the cap screws,
lock washers, and lock nuts from the rear arm lim-
iter and rear arm.

MS053A
9. Note the mounting position of the front arm
mounting bracket and remove the cap screws
securing the front arm mounting bracket. Account MS056A

for lock nuts.

9
MS056B
12. Mark the location of the rear coupler block (if
MS054A applicable); then remove the block. Account for
10. Note the mounting location for installing pur- the block, bushing, cap screw, and lock nut.
poses; then remove the cap screw and lock nut
securing the rear inner idler wheels and mounting 13. Remove the idler wheel insert; then remove the
block. cap screw and flat washer securing the rear idler
wheel. Remove the idler wheel; then remove the
adjuster bushing.

9-33
 FC194 AG528D

INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Inspect the slide rail for cracks (A), elongated

holes (B), or unusual bends.

MS057

„NOTE: The adjusting bolt may have to be loos-

ened to remove the adjuster bushing.

„NOTE: At this point, the slide rail should be free

of the skid frame components and can be
removed.

14. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the
track adjuster bracket. MS220A
2. Inspect the wear strip for wear. The wear strip
must be 10.7 mm (0.42 in.) thick or thicker. If the
wear strip measurement is less than specified,
replacement of both wear strips is necessary.

MS057A

„NOTE: The shock pads should be removed only if

being replaced.
AG530D
15. Using a drill and a 3/16-in. drill bit, drill out the
rivets and remove the shock pads. Note the shock
pad location for installation. Account for the
retaining brackets.

9-34
 0727-726 MS058A

INSTALLING

1. Install the shock pads and retaining brackets; then

secure with rivets.

MS056C

„NOTE: Care must be taken that the adjuster

bushing slot is aligned properly with the adjuster
bolt.

AG531D „NOTE: It is advisable to tighten the rear idler

2. Secure the track adjuster bracket with the cap wheel axle only until snug until the skid frame has
screws and lock nuts. Tighten only until snug. been installed and track tension has been
adjusted; then the axle assembly must be tight-
ened to specifications.

4. Install the rear arm limiter cap screw (A) in the

appropriate hole (as noted during disassembly);
then install the rear arm in the appropriate hole as
noted during disassembly. Install cap screw (B)
and lock nut. Tighten only until snug.

9
MS057A
3. Place the rail into position; then install the adjuster
bushing and rear idler wheel. Install the cap screw
and flat washer. Tighten only until snug.

MS056A

9-35
 MS056B MS054A
5. If applicable, install coupler block w/bushing. „NOTE: At this point if the front arm shock
Secure with cap screw and lock nut. Tighten to absorber was removed from the front arm, install it
specifications.
and tighten securely.
6. Install the rear inner idler wheel mounting block in
the appropriate holes as noted during disassembly 8. Install the cap screw and lock nut (if removed)
and secure with cap screw and lock nut. Tighten to securing the front inner idler wheel assembly to
specifications. the slide rails. Tighten to specifications.

MS059 MS053A

„NOTE: To obtain proper alignment for the idler „NOTE: At this point, tighten the cap screws A and
wheel cap screw, place the cap screw in the top B (from step 4) to specifications.
hole through the rail and mounting block prior to
tightening. 9. Place the spring into the slide block; then place the
spring slide and slide block assembly into position
on the slide rail. Secure with a cap screw and
washer. Tighten to specifications.

MS059A
7. Secure the front arm mounting bracket with the
cap screws and lock nuts. Tighten to specifica- MS060
tions. 10. Secure the outer idler wheel mounting block with
the cap screw and lock nut. Tighten to specifica-
tions.

9-36
 MS997 MS061

„NOTE: To obtain proper alignment for the idler „NOTE: Apply a light coat of grease to the slide
wheel cap screw, place the cap screw in the top rail surface to aid in installing a new wear strip. If
hole through the rail and mounting block prior to there are any sharp edges on the lower portion of
tightening. the rail, use a file to remove them.

MS997A MS288
11. Secure the outer and inner idler wheels to the 13. Secure the end cap onto the slide rail using a cap
mounting blocks with existing hardware. Tighten screw, flat washers, and a lock nut. Tighten to
to specifications. specifications.

9
MS050A MS206A
12. Secure the rail supports with cap screws (coated 14. From the back, start the wear strip onto the rail;
with blue Loctite #243). Tighten to specifications. then using a soft hammer, drive the wear strip for-
ward into position. Secure with a machine screw
and lock nut. Tighten to specifications.

9-37
 ! CAUTION
When installing the skid frame, make sure the rear
arm shock mounting location on the pivot/axle is
positioned correctly above the axle or component
damage will occur.

MS207

739-992A

„NOTE: To aid in centering the front arm with the

hole in the tunnel, position the skid frame and
track at a 45° angle to the bottom of the tunnel.

4. Elevate the rear of the skid frame and the track

into position in the tunnel.
MS016B
15. Install the skid frame (see Installing Skid Frame in 5. Align the pivot idler arm assembly with the appro-
this sub-section). priate hole in the tunnel. Secure the pivot idler arm
assembly with a cap screw (coated with red Loc-
„NOTE: It is advisable to install the rear arm tite #271), lock washer, and flat washer. DO NOT
springs onto the adjuster blocks after the skid TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME.
frame has been installed.
„NOTE: Do not install the short legs of the rear
16. Adjust track tension deflection (see Track Tension springs onto the adjusting cams at this time.
in this sub-section) and track alignment (see Track
Alignment in this sub-section). 6. At this time, tighten all four skid frame mounting
cap screws securely.
! CAUTION 7. Using the Rear Suspension Spring Tool (p/n 0144-
After proper track tension and alignment have been 311), install the short legs of the rear springs onto
attained, make certain that the rear axle assembly is the adjusting cams making sure the cams are in the
tightened to specifications or component damage same adjustment positions.
will occur.
8. Tighten the two track tension adjusting bolt evenly
until track deflection is within specifications; then
lock the jam nuts to secure the adjustment.
Installing Skid Frame
9. Check track tension deflection and alignment;
adjust if necessary (see Track Tension and Track
1. Place a piece of cardboard on the floor to protect Alignment in this sub-section).
against scratching and tip the snowmobile onto
one side.
2. Pull the track away from the tunnel and spread
Track Tension
open; then place the skid frame into the track.
3. Position the front of the skid frame into the tunnel ! WARNING
and align the front arm with the appropriate
Deactivate all switches.
mounting hole in the tunnel. Insert the cap screw
with washers through the tunnel mounting hole
and through the front arm. DO NOT TIGHTEN CHECKING DEFLECTION
AT THIS TIME. Repeat this procedure on the
other side. 1. Tip the snowmobile on its side.

9-38
 2. Hook a spring scale around a track clip at mid- „NOTE: Vigorously push the underside of the
span; then pull the track down with the scale to 9 track up and down. Track must not hit the top of
kg (20 lb) and measure the distance between the the tunnel or slap the skid frame.
bottom of the wear strip and the inside surface of
the track clip. Track deflection must be within 4. After correct track tension is obtained, check track
specifications. alignment (see Track Alignment in this sub-sec-
tion).
Rear Suspension Setup After Break-In
Style Tension Tension „NOTE: Track tension and track alignment are
FasTrack w/Torque Sensing 38-44 mm 44-51 mm interrelated; always check both even if only one
Link (121 in. Track) (1 1/2-1 3/4 in.) (1 3/4-2 in.) adjustment seems necessary. Always establish
correct track tension before checking and/or
adjusting alignment.

! CAUTION
After proper track tension and alignment have been
attained, make certain that the rear axle assembly is
tightened to specifications or component damage
will occur.

Track Alignment
729-429A
„NOTE: Proper track alignment is when the rear
„NOTE: If the track is new, it will stretch slightly idler wheels are equidistant from the inner drive
and take a “set” within the first 300 to 500 miles of lugs on the inside surface of the track.
operation.
CHECKING
ADJUSTING DEFLECTION
1. Using a shielded safety stand, raise the rear of the
1. Place the snowmobile up on a shielded safety snowmobile off the floor making sure the track is
stand. Check to make sure the track is 2-3 in. off free to rotate.
the floor.
2. If the measurement is not as specified, loosen the ! WARNING
jam nuts of the adjusting bolts. The tips of the skis must be positioned against a
wall or similar object for safety. Keep hands, feet,
and clothing away from moving components.

2. Start the engine and accelerate slightly. Use only

enough throttle to rotate the track several revolu-
tions. SHUT THE ENGINE OFF.
„NOTE: Allow the track to coast to a stop. Do not

9
apply the brake because it could produce inaccu-
rate alignment conditions.

3. When the track stops rotating, check the relation-

ship of the rear idler wheels and the inner track
drive lugs. If the distance from the idler wheels to
0727-456 the inner drive lugs is the same on both sides, no
3. If the measurement obtained in step 2 is more than adjustment is necessary.
specified, tighten the adjusting bolts. If the mea-
surement obtained is less than specified, loosen
the adjusting bolts. When the measurement is
within specification range, lock the adjustment by
bottoming the jam nuts against the axle housings.
„NOTE: If the track tension must be loosened, it
may be necessary to loosen the rear axle assem-
bly slightly.

9-39
 „NOTE: Some illustrations and photographs used
in this sub-section are used for clarity purposes
only and are not designed to depict actual condi-
tions.

Removing Skid Frame

„NOTE: Many service procedures can be per-

formed without removing the skid frame. Closely
observe the note introducing each sub-section for
725-070A
this important information.
4. On the side of the track which has the inner drive 1. To avoid having the adjuster bushings binding dur-
lugs closer to the rear idler wheel, loosen the ing removal, remove the rear idler wheel caps and
adjusting bolt jam nut; then rotate the adjusting loosen the cap screws on the rear axle.
bolt clockwise 1-1 1/2 turns.
„NOTE: If track alignment must be adjusted, it may
be necessary to loosen the rear axle assembly
slightly.

5. Continue to check the track alignment and make

the necessary adjustments until proper alignment
is obtained.
6. After proper track alignment is obtained, lock the
jam nut against the axle housing.
„NOTE: Make sure correct track tension is main-
tained after adjusting track alignment.
FS082A
2. Loosen the jam nuts and two track-tension adjust-
! CAUTION ing bolts.
After proper track alignment has been attained,
make certain that the rear axle assembly is tightened
to specifications or component damage will occur.

„NOTE: Field test the track under actual condi-

tions and, after the field test, check track align-
ment and track tension; adjust as necessary.

Repair Procedure 2 -
Track/Rear Suspension

This Track/Rear Suspension sub-section (Repair Pro- MS062A

cedure 2) has been organized so each procedure can be 3. Place a support stand under the rear bumper; then
completed individually and efficiently. Each sub-sec- while holding the flared bushing, remove the rear
tion has (as necessary) Removing, Disassembling, cap screws securing the skid frame to the tunnel.
Cleaning and Inspecting, Assembling, and Installing Account for lock washers and flat washers.
procedures. Some components may vary from model
to model. The technician should use discretion and „NOTE: The support stand should hold the snow-
sound judgment when removing and installing compo- mobile level but not raised off the floor.
nents.
4. Remove the front cap screws securing the skid
„NOTE: Critical torque specifications are located frame to the tunnel. Account for a flat washer and
on page 6 of this section. a lock washer.
5. Remove the support stand; then tip the snow-
mobile onto one side using a piece of cardboard to
protect against scratching. Remove the skid frame.
9-40
 MS066 739-884A

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

Wear Strips
„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
REMOVING necessary.
„NOTE: The skid frame does not have to be 1. Clean the slide rail using parts-cleaning solvent
removed for this procedure; however, if wear strip and compressed air.
binding or slide rail damage has occurred, the skid
frame should be removed for this procedure (see ! WARNING
Removing Skid Frame in this sub-section).
Always wear an approved pair of safety glasses
1. Remove the machine screw and lock nut securing when using compressed air.
the wear strip to the front of the slide rail.
2. Inspect the slide rail for cracks. If any cracks are
found, replace the slide rail.
3. Using a straightedge, inspect the slide rail for any
unusual bends. With the slide rail removed, place
the straightedge along the bottom surface of the
slide rail. If the rail is found to be bent, it must be
replaced.

MS016B

„NOTE: If the skid frame has been removed due to

difficulty in removing the wear strip, it may be nec-
essary to use a pipe wrench, start from either end,
and hook the edge of the wear strip with the pipe 9
wrench jaw and twist the wear strip off the slide
rail. Move the pipe wrench 7.5 cm (3 in.) and again AG536D
twist the wear strip off the rail. Repeat this proce-
dure until the wear strip is free of the rail. INSTALLING
2. Align the wear strip with the openings (windows) „NOTE: Apply a light coat of grease to the slide
in the track; then using a suitable driving tool, rail surface to aid in installing a new wear strip. If
drive the wear strip rearward off the slide rail.
there are any sharp edges on the lower portion of
the rail, use a file to remove them.

9-41
 1. Align the wear strip with the openings (windows)
in the track and from the back, start the wear strip
onto the rail; then using a block of wood and a
hammer, drive the wear strip forward into posi-
tion.

MS017A
2. Inspect the end cap for any signs of cracking or
wear.

739-884A
2. Secure with a machine screw and lock nut. Tighten
to specifications.

End Caps

„NOTE: The skid frame does not have to be

removed for this procedure.

REMOVING MS290A
3. Clean both the slide rail area and the end cap.
1. Remove the lock nut, washers, and cap screw Using compressed air, clean the areas of dirt and
securing the end cap. gravel.

! WARNING
Always wear an approved pair of safety glasses
when using compressed air.

4. Inspect the cap screw for cracked, stretched, or

damaged threads. Use a new lock nut when assem-
bling.
INSTALLING

1. Position the end cap on the slide rail; then align the
hole in the end cap with the hole in the slide rail.
MS016A
2. Secure with a cap screw, washers, and lock nut.
2. Using a hammer, tap the end cap off the rail. Tighten to specifications.
CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively, Shock Pads

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary. „NOTE: The skid frame does not have to be
removed for this procedure.
1. Inspect the end cap area of the slide rail for cracks
and wear.
REMOVING

„NOTE: The shock pads should be removed only if

being replaced.

9-42
1. Using a 3/16-in. drill bit, drill out the rivets secur-
ing each front shock pad to the slide rail. Account
for the retaining brackets.

AG531D
3. Place the rear pads into position on the slide rails.
4. Secure the rear pads with the torx-head screws.
AG476D
2. Remove the torx-head screws and lock nuts secur-
ing the rear shock pads to the slide rail.

MS117A

MS117A Front Outer

3. Remove the shock pads. Idler Wheels
INSPECTING
„NOTE: The skid frame does not have to be
„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively, removed for this procedure.
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary. REMOVING
1. Inspect the pad and retaining brackets for damage 1. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the
or wear. front outer idler wheel and the idler wheel mount-
ing block. Account for flat washers and two shim
2. Inspect the rivet holes in the slide rail for damage washers (if applicable).
or elongation.
9
INSTALLING

1. Place the front pads and retaining brackets into

position on the slide rail.
2. Secure the front pads with rivets.

MS002B

9-43
 4. If a bearing must be replaced, use this procedure.

! CAUTION
Do not remove the bearing unless it is absolutely
necessary. The bearing will be damaged during
removal.

A. Remove the wheel insert (if applicable) and the

snap ring.
B. Using a hydraulic press, press the bearing out
the inside of the wheel.
MS003A C. Press the new bearing (on its outer race) into
2. If applicable, note the locations of the shim wash- the idler wheel.
ers for assembly purposes. The shim washers are
to be installed to the inside of the idler wheels.

MS006A
D. Install the snap ring making sure the “sharp
MS004 side” is directed away from the bearing.
„NOTE: On the idler wheels with inserts, account
for a spacer.

MS007A
E. Install the insert (if applicable).
MS005

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Clean the bearing with a clean cloth.

2. Inspect each idler wheel and each plastic hub for
cracks or damage.
3. Rotate the idler wheel bearing (by hand) and
MS008
inspect for binding or roughness.

9-44
INSTALLING

1. Secure the mounting block on the slide rail with a

cap screw and lock nut. Tighten to specifications.

MS005
3. Secure the idler wheel assembly with a cap screw
and a lock nut. Tighten cap screws to specifica-
tions.
MS009

„NOTE: For proper alignment, it is advisable to

install an idler wheel cap screw into the top mount-
ing block hole prior to tightening.

MS208

Rear Inner
Idler Wheels
MS009A
2. Place the two shim washers (if applicable), idler „NOTE: The skid frame does not have to be
wheel, and axle against the mounting block mak-
ing sure there is a flat washer on the outside of the removed for this procedure.
idler wheel.
REMOVING

1. Remove the cap screws securing the rear inner

idler wheel and the idler wheel assembly. Account
for four flat washers, three spacers, and an axle.

MS004

„NOTE: On idler wheels with inserts, install spac-

ers.

MS209A
2. Note the locations of the washers and spacers for
installing purposes.

9-45
„NOTE: The washers (A) must be installed next to
the idler wheels. The short spacers (B) must be
installed against the slide rail.

MS006A
D. Install the snap ring making sure the “sharp
side” is directed away from the bearing.
MS210A

MS007A

MS210B E. Install the insert (if applicable).

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Clean the bearing with a clean cloth.

2. Inspect each idler wheel and plastic hub for cracks
or damage.
3. Rotate the idler wheel bearings (by hand) and
inspect for binding or roughness.
MS008
4. If a bearing must be replaced, use this procedure.
INSTALLING
! CAUTION
Do not remove the bearing unless it is absolutely
1. Place the long spacer on the axle; then from each
necessary. The bearing will be damaged during
side, install a washer (A), idler wheel, washer, and
a short spacer (B). Tighten to specifications.
removal.

A. Remove the wheel insert (if applicable) and the

snap ring.
B. Using a hydraulic press, press the bearing out
the inside of the wheel.
C. Press the new bearing (on its outer race) into
the idler wheel.

9-46
 REMOVING

1. Using the Rear Suspension Spring Tool (p/n 0144-

311), remove the spring from the adjusting cam.

! WARNING
Care must be taken when removing the spring or
damage or injury could result.

MS210A

MS063
2. Mark the offset pivot idler and the idler arm for
assembly purposes.

MS210B
2. Place the idler wheel and axle assembly into posi-
tion between the slide rails. Tighten to specifica-
tions.

MS142
3. Remove the cap screws securing the offset pivot
idler arm to the idler arm; then remove the offset
pivot idler arm assembly. Account for a flanged
axle, washer, flared bushings, idler spacer collar,
MS211
and lock nuts.

Rear Upper Idler

9
Wheels/Rear Springs

„NOTE: The skid frame must be removed for this

procedure (see Removing Skid Frame in this sub-
section).

MS064
4. Using Idler Wheel Puller Kit (p/n 0644-122),
remove the wheel.

9-47
 „NOTE: Use the same procedure for the other
side.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Clean the bearing with a clean cloth.

2. Inspect each idler wheel and plastic hub for cracks
or damage.
MS065
3. Rotate the idler wheel bearings (by hand) and
5. Remove the cap screw, lock nut, and flat washer inspect for binding or roughness.
securing the spring slide to the rail. Account for a
slide block and washer. 4. If a bearing must be replaced, use this procedure.

! CAUTION
Do not remove the bearing unless it is absolutely
necessary. The bearing will be damaged during
removal.

A. Remove the wheel insert (if applicable) and the

snap ring.
B. Using a hydraulic press, press the bearing out
the inside of the wheel.
C. Press the new bearing (on its outer race) into
MS067A the idler wheel.

MS068
MS006A
6. Remove the spring and sleeve from the idler arm. D. Install the snap ring making sure the “sharp
side” is directed away from the bearing.

MS069

MS007A

9-48
 E. Install the insert (if applicable).

MS068

MS008
5. Inspect the spring, spring slide, sleeve, washers,
slide block insert, and shaft area for wear.
6. Inspect the adjusting cams and arms for cracks.
INSTALLING

1. Slide the sleeve and spring onto the idler arm.

MS071
3. Using a suitable driving tool, install the rear upper
idler wheel on the idler arm.

MS069
2. Place the slide spacer and slide block (with spring
in slide block) into position on the slide rail.
Secure with a cap screw, flat washers, and lock
nut. Tighten to specifications.
„NOTE: Make sure the spring is located above the
spring slide mounting bolt.
MS074

! CAUTION
When driving the idler wheel onto the idler arm, use 9
a tool to contact the inside race of the bearing or
damage to the wheel or bearing may occur.

4. Install the idler spacer collar onto the idler arm.

MS070

9-49
 DISASSEMBLING

1. Remove the cap screw and large flat washer secur-

ing the outer rear idler wheel. Remove the outer
idler wheel from the shaft.

MS064
5. Place the flared bushings with a thin flat washer
through the notched side of the offset pivot idler
arm assembly.
„NOTE: If the flared bushing in the offset pivot
idler arm is loose, it must be cleaned and green FC194

Loctite #609 must be applied to it prior to installa- „NOTE: The large flat side of the wheel insert is
tion. positioned next to the inner plastic adjuster bush-
ing. The idler wheel must be installed with the
6. Align the marks on the idler arm to the centerline wheel insert properly positioned.
of the offset pivot idler arm assembly. Secure the
offset pivot idler arm to the idler arm with cap
screws and lock nuts. Tighten to specifications. 2. Loosen the track adjusting bolts. Slide the outer
adjuster bushings off the axle.

MS146A
MS020
„NOTE: When tightening the pivot idler arm lock
nuts, tighten the lower lock nut first or binding may
occur.

7. Install the skid frame (see Installing Skid Frame in

this sub-section).
„NOTE: It is advisable to install the rear arm
springs onto the adjuster blocks after the skid
frame has been installed.

Rear Axle and

Idler Wheels MS021
3. Carefully slide the shaft out from the inner idler
wheels and note the position of the spacers and
„NOTE: The skid frame must be removed for this washers.
procedure (see Removing Skid Frame in this sub-
section).

9-50
 MS022 MS006A
D. Install the snap ring making sure the “sharp
CLEANING AND INSPECTING side” is directed away from the bearing.
„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Clean the bearings with a clean cloth.

2. Inspect all idler wheel inserts (inner and outer) for
any cracks.
3. Inspect the outer rubber portion of the idler wheels
for cracks and poor bonding.
4. Inspect the plastic insert of each idler wheel for
cracks. MS007A

5. Inspect the shaft for wear and damaged threads. E. Install the insert (if applicable).
6. Inspect all idler wheel bearings. Turn each bearing
(by hand) and if any roughness or binding is noted,
replace the bearing.
7. If a bearing must be replaced, use this procedure.

! CAUTION
Do not remove the bearing unless it is absolutely
necessary. The bearing will be damaged during
removal.

A. Remove the wheel insert (if applicable) and the

snap ring.
9
MS008

B. Using a hydraulic press, press the bearing out

the inside of the wheel. ASSEMBLING
C. Press the new bearing (on its outer race) into 1. In order from the right-hand side, slide the axle
the idler wheel. through the slide rail axle slot; then place a bush-
ing, inner idler wheel with insert (if applicable),
and long spacer with a flat washer on the axle.
Slide the axle through the opposite slide rail axle
slot. Place the plastic adjuster bushings on the axle
(on the outside of each axle slot).

9-51
 4. Adjust track alignment (see Track Alignment in
this sub-section).
5. Adjust track tension deflection (see Track Tension
in this sub-section).

Idler Arm/Rear Arm

„NOTE: The skid frame must be removed for this

procedure (see Removing Skid Frame in this sub-
section).
MS022
DISASSEMBLING
„NOTE: Make sure the slot in the adjuster bushing
is aligned directly with the adjusting bolt. 1. Remove the rear upper idler wheels and springs
A
(see Rear Upper Idler Wheels/Rear Springs in this
sub-section).

MS058A
2. Place the outer idler wheels on the axle (with the
large flat of the insert directed inward) and secure MS074
with two cap screws (coated with blue Loctite 2. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
#243) and large flat washers. Tighten cap screws upper shock eyelet to the idler arm. Account for a
only until snug. spacer, lock nut, and bushings.
„NOTE: It is advisable to tighten the rear idler
wheel axle only until snug until the skid frame has
been installed and track tension has been
adjusted; then the axle assembly must be tight-
ened to specifications.

MS075A

MS212
3. Install the skid frame (see Installing Skid Frame in
this sub-section).
„NOTE: It is advisable to install the rear arm
springs onto the adjuster blocks after the skid
frame has been installed.

9-52
 4. Remove the cap screw, washer, and lock nut secur-
ing the rear arm to the slide rail. Account for the
serrated axles and axle tube.

AG553D

„NOTE: Mark the hole that the upper shock links

are mounted in for assembly purposes.
MS078A

MS076 MS028
3. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
upper shock links to the idler arm. Account for a „NOTE: At this point on the Bearcat 570, remove
lock nut, spacer, and axle links. the rear arm limiter strap.

5. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the

rear arm to the idler arm. Account for the alumi-
num axle and bushing assemblies.

9
MS081

MS029A

MS031

9-53
 MS030 MS006A
D. Install the snap ring making sure the “sharp
CLEANING AND INSPECTING side” is directed away from the bearing.
„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Closely inspect the rear arm/idler arm tubing and

brackets for cracks or unusual bends.
2. Clean the bearings with a clean cloth.
3. Inspect each idler wheel for cracks or damage.
4. Inspect the bushings (located in the arm pivot
area) for wear or damage.
5. Inspect all welds and the tubing of the upper arm MS007A

for cracks or unusual bends. E. Install the insert (if applicable).

6. Inspect the two adjusting cams for damage.
7. If a bearing must be replaced, use this procedure.

! CAUTION
Do not remove the bearing unless it is absolutely
necessary. The bearing will be damaged during
removal.

A. Remove the wheel insert (if applicable) and the

snap ring.
B. Using a hydraulic press, press the bearing out
the inside of the wheel. MS008

C. Press the new bearing (on its outer race) into ASSEMBLING
the idler wheel.
1. Install the rear arm onto the idler arm with an alu-
minum axle, bushing assemblies, two cap screws
(coated with blue Loctite #243), and a lock nut.
Tighten only until snug.

9-54
 MS030 MS080
4. Position the shock links in the appropriate holes of
the idler arm brackets (see Chassis and Skid Frame
Mounting Locations in this section). Place a
spacer between the center of the brackets. Insert
the axle links into the upper shock link eyelets;
then insert the cap screw through the eyelets.
Secure with a cap screw, washer, and lock nut.
Tighten securely.

MS029A

„NOTE: At this point on the Bearcat 570, install the

rear arm and the idler arm; then secure with the
cap screws, flat washers, and lock nuts. Tighten to
1.4 kg-m (10 ft-lb).

2. Place the rear arm assembly into position. Secure

with a cap screw, washer, and lock nut. Tighten to
specifications. MS031

9
MS081
MS079
5. Place the upper shock eyelet with bushings
3. Place a support beneath the rear arm; then tighten between the idler arm brackets making sure the
the cap screws (from step 1) to specifications. spacer is properly positioned between the brack-
ets. Secure with a cap screw and lock nut. Tighten
securely.

9-55
 2. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
upper front shock absorber eyelet to the front arm.
Pull the shock eyelet free of the bracket. Account
for a serrated axle.

MS075A

„NOTE: Do not over-tighten the shock absorber

cap screw as the shock eyelet must be free to
pivot.
MS039A
6. Grease the idler arm and rear arm grease fittings 3. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
with a low-temperature grease. front arm to the front arm mounting brackets.
7. Install the rear upper idler wheels, rear springs,
and offset pivot idler (see Rear Upper Idler
Wheels/Rear Springs in this sub-section).
8. Install the skid frame (see Installing Skid Frame in
this sub-section).
„NOTE: It is advisable to install the rear arm
springs onto the adjuster blocks after the skid
frame has been installed.

Front Arm/Front Shock

Absorber/Front Inner MS083A

Idler Wheels 4. Remove the front arm and account for the serrated
axles, bushings, and an axle tube.

„NOTE: The skid frame must be removed for this

procedure (see Removing Skid Frame in this sub-
section), and the rear springs must be removed
from the adjusting cams.

REMOVING

1. Remove the lower cap screws and lock nuts secur-

ing the limiter straps to the rail support. Account
for flat washers.

MS036
5. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
front inner idler wheels to the slide rail.

MS082A

9-56
 MS084A MS042A
6. From one side, tap the idler assembly rearward
until the mounting blocks clear the slide rail; then INSPECTING
remove the assembly.
„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Inspect all front arm weldments for cracks or

unusual bends.
2. Closely inspect all tubing for cracks or unusual
bends.
3. Inspect the bearings, bushings, front arm spacers,
and mounting blocks for wear or damage.
4. Inspect the shock absorber for any signs of oil
MS085
leakage especially at the point where the shock
shaft enters the shock body.
7. Remove the mounting blocks and slide the axle
out of the shock bracket; then remove the cap 5. Inspect the shock absorber eyelet welds (at each
screw and lock nut securing the shock absorber to end) for any cracks, signs of separation, or for
the bracket. unthreading.
INSTALLING

1. Secure the shock absorber to the shock bracket

with the cap screw and lock nut. Tighten securely.

9
MS086A

MS086A

„NOTE: Do not over-tighten the shock absorber

cap screw as the shock eyelet must be free to
pivot.

2. Apply grease to the axle; then install the axle into

the shock bracket. Install the mounting blocks to
the axle.

9-57
 MS042A MS088
3. Place the idler wheel assembly into position on the 5. Secure the upper shock eyelet and serrated axle in
skid frame making sure the mounting blocks are the mounting hole of the front arm. Secure with a
properly positioned. Secure with the cap screw, cap screw and lock nut. Tighten securely.
washer, and a new lock nut. Tighten only until
snug.

MS039A

MS085
„NOTE: Do not over-tighten the shock absorber
cap screw as the shock eyelet must be free to
4. Position the front arm into the mounting brackets.
Secure with cap screws and lock nuts. Tighten to pivot.
specifications.
6. Secure the limiter straps to the rail supports with
cap screws, washers, and lock nuts. Tighten to
specifications.

MS087

„NOTE: At this point, tighten the lock nut (from

step 3) to specifications. MS082A
7. Install the skid frame (see Installing Skid Frame in
this sub-section).
„NOTE: It is advisable to install the rear arm
springs onto the adjuster blocks after the skid
frame has been installed.

9-58
 Rear Shock Absorber
and Shock Links

„NOTE: Before removing the skid frame by using

the Rear Suspension Spring Tool (p/n 0144-311),
remove the spring from the adjusting cam.

! CAUTION
Care must be taken when removing the spring from
the adjusting cam or damage or injury could result.
MS091

„NOTE: The skid frame must be removed for this

2. Mark the hole that the upper shock links are
mounted in for assembly purposes; then remove
procedure (see Removing Skid Frame in this sub- the cap screw and lock nut securing the shock
section). links to the upper arm bracket. Account for all
mounting hardware.
DISASSEMBLING

„NOTE: When removing center components from

the skid frame, it is advisable to loosen all cap
screws/lock nuts from one side of the slide rail to
make removing easier.

1. Disengage the shock absorber at the upper eyelet

and remove the shock absorber. Account for a
sleeve, cap screw, lock nut, and bushings.

MS076

MS089A

„NOTE: For ease of disassembling, it is advisable

at this point to place a block of wood between the
idler arm and the overload springs.
MS092A 9

MS090A MS093

9-59
 3. Note the hole location that the center inner idler CLEANING AND INSPECTING
wheel/pivot assembly is in; then remove the cap
screw, flat washer, and lock nut securing the „NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
assembly to the rails. cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Clean shock pivot and idler wheel axle in part-

cleaning solvent. Dry with compressed air.

! WARNING
Always wear an approved pair of safety glasses
when using compressed air.

2. Clean the idler wheel bearings with a clean cloth.

3. Closely inspect the pivot bracket arm and axles for
wear, bends, or damaged splines at either end.
MS094A
4. Inspect the idler wheels for signs of cracking,
4. Tap one side of the idler wheel/pivot assembly for- wear, or outer rubber separation from plastic
ward until it clears the slide rails; then lift the wheel.
assembly upward and out from between the rails.
5. Rotate the idler wheel bearings (by hand) and
inspect for any signs of binding or roughness.
6. If a bearing must be replaced, use this procedure.

! CAUTION
Do not remove the bearing unless it is absolutely
necessary. The bearing will be damaged during
removal.

A. Remove the snap ring.

B. Using a hydraulic press, press the bearing out
MS095
the inside of the wheel.

„NOTE: Lay components out in order as they are C. Press the new bearing (on its outer race) into
removed. the idler wheel.

5. With the idler wheel/pivot assembly removed,

remove the three spacers, an axle, and washers
from the pivot bracket.
6. Remove the cap screw, lock nut, and washer secur-
ing the shock rod links to the pivot arm. Account
for all components and mounting hardware.

MS006A
D. Install the snap ring making sure the “sharp
side” is directed away from the bearing.

MS097

9-60
 2. Apply a thin coat of low-temperature grease to the
axle and slide the axle and spacer into the shock
pivot bracket. Have equal amounts of the axle
exposed on either side of the pivot bracket tube.

MS007A
7. Inspect the shock absorber for any signs of oil
leakage especially at the point where the shock
shaft enters the shock body.
8. Inspect the rubber shock bushings located in the FC189
shock absorber eyelets for cracks or deterioration. 3. From each side of the pivot, install a washer, idler
wheel, washer, and spacer.
9. Inspect the shock absorber eyelet welds (at each
end) for any cracks or signs of separation.
10. Inspect the welds securing the eyelets of the shock
links for cracks or signs of separation. If either
condition exists, replace the shock link.
11. Inspect the axle surfaces for any signs of corro-
sion. If corrosion is found, lightly buff the surface
of the axle with #400 wet-or-dry sandpaper; then
apply a light coat of grease.
12. Inspect the pivot assembly for signs of cracks or
elongated holes.
ASSEMBLING AG492D
4. Lower the idler wheel/pivot assembly down
1. Secure the shock rod links (with axles) and the between the rails. Align the axle with the mount-
lower end of the shock absorber to the idler wheel/ ing hole (as noted during disassembly). Secure
pivot assembly with the cap screw and lock nut. with the cap screw and a new lock nut. Tighten to
Tighten securely. specifications.

MS096A MS095

„NOTE: Do not over-tighten the shock absorber

cap screw as the shock eyelet must be free to
pivot.

9-61
 Slide Rails

„NOTE: The skid frame must be removed for this pro-

cedure (see Removing Skid Frame in this sub-section).

REMOVING

„NOTE: When it is necessary to replace one or

both slide rails, it is recommended that one slide
rail be removed at a time. The remaining slide rail
will then hold the rail supports, axles, and brackets
MS101
in their correct assembly order. Always mark the
5. Position the shock links in the appropriate holes of mounting hole locations during disassembly to
the idler arm brackets (as marked during disassem- speed up the assembly process and to prevent any
bling). Place a spacer between the center of the
brackets; then insert the link axles into the upper damage. This method is much quicker than to
shock link eyelets. Secure with a cap screw, completely disassemble the entire skid frame. To
washer, and lock nut. Tighten securely. replace either rail, use the following procedure.

1. Remove the end cap from the slide rail. Account

for a cap screw, lock nut, and two flat washers.

MS081
6. Secure the shock absorber to the idler arm with
bushings, sleeve, lock nut, and a cap screw.
Tighten securely. MS016A
2. Remove the machine screw and lock nut securing
the wear strip to the front of the slide rail.

MS100

„NOTE: Do not over-tighten the shock absorber MS017B

cap screw as the shock eyelet must be free to 3. Using a suitable driving tool, drive the wear strip
pivot. off the rail.
7. Install the skid frame (see Installing Skid Frame in
this sub-section).
„NOTE: It is advisable to install the rear arm springs
onto the adjuster blocks after the skid frame has been
installed.

9-62
 AG510D MS104A

„NOTE: If binding of the wear strip occurs, use a pipe „NOTE: If not already done, remove the short
wrench, start from either end, and hook the edge spring leg from the adjusting cam. Also, it is rec-
of the wear strip with the pipe wrench jaw and ommended that the cap screw be removed from
twist the wear strip off the slide rail. Move the pipe the front shock absorber to the front arm to aid in
wrench 7.5 cm (3 in.) and again twist the wear strip slide rail installing.
off the rail. Repeat this procedure until the wear
strip is free of the rail. 7. Remove the cap screw and lock washer securing
the front inner idler wheel assembly to the slide
4. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the rail.
front arm limiter straps to the rail support.
5. Remove the cap screws securing the rail supports
to the slide rail.

MS105A
8. Note the mounting position of the front arm
mounting bracket; then remove the cap screws
securing the front arm mounting bracket. Account
MS102A for lock nuts.
6. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the
front outer idler wheel and the idler wheel mount-
ing block. Account for flat washers.

MS106A

„NOTE: If it is necessary to remove the cap screw

MS103A for replacing the slide rail, install the cap screw
from the opposite side into the assembly to secure
the components and aid in replacing the slide rail.

9-63
 9. Remove the cap screw and flat washer securing
the spring slide and overload spring to the rail.
Account for a spacer, the slide block, overload
spring, retainer clips, bushing, one small washer,
and two large washers.

MS110A

„NOTE: If it is necessary to remove the cap screw

for replacing the slide rail, install the cap screw
from the opposite side into the assembly to secure
the components and aid in replacing the slide rail.
MS107A
12. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
rear inner idler wheel assembly to the rail.

MS108
10. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
overload spring tension block to the slide rail. MS111A
13. Remove the cap screw from the rear arm stop.

MS109A
11. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the MS112A
center inner idler wheel/pivot assembly to the slide
rail. 14. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
rear arm to the rail.
„NOTE: If it is necessary to remove the cap screw
for replacing the slide rail, install the cap screw
from the opposite side into the assembly to secure
the components and aid in replacing the slide rail.

9-64
 MS113A MS115A
15. Remove the idler wheel cap; then remove the cap „NOTE: The shock pads should be removed only if
screw and flat washer securing the rear idler being replaced.
wheel. Remove the idler wheel; then remove the
adjuster bushing.
17. On the front shock pads using a drill and a 3/16-in.
drill bit, drill out the rivets and remove the shock
pads. Note the shock pad location for installation.
Account for the retaining brackets.

FC194

MS116A
18. On the rear shock pads, remove the torx-head
screws and lock nuts securing the shock pads to
the rails.

9
MS114A

„NOTE: The adjusting bolt may have to be loos-

ened to remove the adjuster bushing.

„NOTE: At this point, the slide rail should be free

of the skid frame components and can be
removed. MS117A

„NOTE: If applicable, remove the cap screw and

lock nut securing the coupler block to the slide
INSPECTING
rail.
„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
16. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the
track adjuster bracket. necessary.

1. Inspect the slide rail for cracks (A), elongated

holes (B), or unusual bends.

9-65
 MS220A MS117A
2. Inspect the wear strip for wear. The wear strip 3. Secure the track adjuster bracket with the cap
must be 10.7 mm (0.42 in.) thick or thicker. If the screws and lock nuts. Tighten to specifications.
wear strip measurement is less than specified,
replacement of both wear strips is necessary.

MS118
4. Place the slide rail into position; then install the
AG530D cap screws securing the front inner idler wheel
assembly (A), the center inner idler wheel/pivot
assembly (B), and the rear arm assembly (C) into
the proper holes in the slide rail. Install the lock
nuts and tighten only until snug.

0727-726

INSTALLING

1. Install the front shock pads and retaining brackets;

then secure with rivets. MS130B

„NOTE: Take care that all the shim washers and

2. Install the rear shock pads and secure with the spacers are in place on the center components of
torx-head screws and lock nuts.
the slide rail.

5. Install the adjuster bushing and rear idler wheel.

Secure with a cap screw (coated with blue Loctite
#243) and flat washer. Tighten only until snug.

9-66
 MS114A MS111A
7. Place the overload spring with retaining clips and
bushing to the proper hole in the slide rail.

FC194

„NOTE: Care must be taken that the adjuster

bushing slot is aligned properly with the adjuster MS119A
bolt. 8. Place the spring into the slide blocks; then place
the spring slide and slide block assembly into posi-
tion on the slide rail. Secure with a cap screw,
washer, spacer, two large flat washers, and a lock
nut. Tighten to specifications.

9
MS058A

„NOTE: If applicable, install coupler block w/bush-

ing. Secure with cap screws and lock nuts. Tighten
securely. MS108

6. Install the cap screw (coated with blue Loctite

#243) securing the rear inner idler wheel assembly
to the slide rail. Tighten only until snug.
„NOTE: On the Bearcat 570, also install a cap
screw (coated with blue Loctite #243) securing the
rear-most inner idler wheel assembly to the slide
rail. Tighten only until snug.

9-67
 MS120 MS121A
9. Install the overload spring tension block with a cap 12. Secure the outer idler wheel to the mounting block
screw and lock nut. Tighten securely. with a cap screw, flat washers, idler wheel, and a
lock nut. Tighten to specifications.

MS109A
10. Secure the front arm mounting bracket with the MS122
cap screws and lock nuts. Tighten to specifica- 13. Secure the front rail supports with cap screws
tions. (coated with blue Loctite #243). Tighten to speci-
fications.

MS121
MS123
„NOTE: At this point if the front arm shock
absorber was removed from the front arm, install it
14. Install the rear arm stop with a cap screw (coated
with blue Loctite #243). Tighten to specifications.
and tighten securely.

11. Secure the outer idler wheel mounting block with

the cap screw and lock nut. Tighten to specifica-
tions.
„NOTE: When tightening the mounting block lock
nut, it is recommended that idler wheel cap screw
(A) be installed to maintain proper alignment.

9-68
 MS125 MS128
15. Tighten the cap screw and lock nut securing the 18. Tighten the front inner idler wheel assembly cap
rear arm assembly (from step 4) to specifications. screw (from step 4) to specifications.

MS126 MS129
16. Tighten the cap screw securing the rear inner idler 19. Secure the end cap onto the slide rail using a cap
wheel assembly (from step 6) to specifications. screw, flat washers, and a lock nut. Tighten to
specifications.
„NOTE: On the Bearcat 570, also tighten the rear-
most inner idler wheel assembly to the slide rail to
specifications.

MS206A
9
„NOTE: Apply a light coat of grease to the slide
rail surface to aid in installing a new wear strip. If
MS127
there are any sharp edges on the lower portion of
17. Tighten the center inner idler wheel/pivot assem- the rail, use a file to remove them.
bly (from step 4) to specifications.

9-69
 Installing Skid Frame

1. Place a piece of cardboard on the floor to protect

against scratching and tip the snowmobile onto
one side.
2. Pull the track away from the tunnel and spread
open; then place the skid frame into the track.
3. Position the front of the skid frame into the tunnel
and align the front arm with the appropriate
MS288 mounting hole in the tunnel. Insert the cap screw
with washers through the tunnel mounting hole
20. From the back, start the wear strip onto the rail; and through the front arm. DO NOT TIGHTEN
then using a soft hammer, drive the wear strip for- AT THIS TIME. Repeat this procedure on the
ward into position. Secure with a machine screw
and lock nut. Tighten to specifications. other side.

! CAUTION
When installing the skid frame, make sure the rear
arm shock mounting location on the pivot/axle is
positioned correctly above the axle or component
damage will occur.

MS289

739-992A

„NOTE: To aid in centering the front arm with the

hole in the tunnel, position the skid frame and
track at a 45° angle to the bottom of the tunnel.

4. Elevate the rear of the skid frame and the track

into position in the tunnel.
MS016B
21. Install the skid frame (see Installing Skid Frame in 5. Align the pivot idler arm assembly with the appro-
this sub-section). priate hole in the tunnel. Secure the pivot idler arm
assembly with a cap screw (coated with red Loc-
„NOTE: It is advisable to install the rear arm tite #271), lock washer, and flat washer. DO NOT
springs onto the adjuster blocks after the skid TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME.
frame has been installed. „NOTE: Do not install the short legs of the rear
springs onto the adjusting cams at this time.
22. Adjust track tension deflection (see Track Tension
in this sub-section) and track alignment (see Track 6. At this time, tighten all four skid frame mounting
Alignment in this sub-section). cap screws securely.
7. Using the Rear Suspension Spring Tool (p/n 0144-
311), install the short legs of the rear springs onto
the adjusting cams making sure the cams are in the
same adjustment positions.

9-70
 8. Tighten the two track tension adjusting bolt evenly
until track deflection is within specifications; then
lock the jam nuts to secure the adjustment.
9. Check track tension deflection and alignment;
adjust if necessary (see Track Tension and Track
Alignment in this sub-section).

Track Tension

! WARNING
0727-456
Deactivate all switches.
3. If the measurement obtained in step 2 is more than
specified, tighten the adjusting bolts. If the mea-
CHECKING DEFLECTION surement obtained is less than specified, loosen
the adjusting bolts. When the measurement is
1. Tip the snowmobile on its side. within specification range, lock the adjustment by
2. Hook a spring scale around a track clip at mid- bottoming the jam nuts against the axle housings.
span; then pull the track down with the scale to 9 „NOTE: If the track tension must be loosened, it
kg (20 lb) and measure the distance between the may be necessary to loosen the rear axle assem-
bottom of the wear strip and the inside surface of
bly slightly.
the track. Track deflection must be within specifi-
cations.
„NOTE: Vigorously push the underside of the
Rear Suspension Setup After Break-In
track up and down. Track must not hit the top of
Style Tension Tension the tunnel or slap the skid frame.
FasTrack w/Torque 44-51 mm 51-57 mm
Sensing Link (1 3/4-2 in.) (2-2 1/4 in.) 4. After correct track tension is obtained, check track
(136 in., 156 in. Track) alignment (see Track Alignment in this sub-sec-
tion).
„NOTE: Track tension and track alignment are
interrelated; always check both even if only one
adjustment seems necessary. Always establish
correct track tension before checking and/or
adjusting alignment.

! CAUTION
After proper track tension and alignment have been
attained, make certain that the rear axle assembly is
tightened to specifications or component damage
will occur.
729-429A

„NOTE: If the track is new, it will stretch slightly

and take a “set” within the first 300 to 500 miles of Track Alignment 9
operation.

ADJUSTING DEFLECTION „NOTE: Proper track alignment is when the rear

idler wheels are equidistant from the inner drive
1. Place the snowmobile up on a shielded safety lugs on the inside surface of the track.
stand. Check to make sure the track is 2-3 in. off
the floor.
2. If the measurement is not as specified, loosen the
jam nuts of the adjusting bolts.

9-71
CHECKING

1. Using a shielded safety stand, raise the rear of the

Repair Procedure 3 -
snowmobile off the floor making sure the track is Track/Rear Suspension
free to rotate.
This Track/Rear Suspension sub-section (Repair Pro-
! WARNING cedure 3) has been organized so each procedure can be
The tips of the skis must be positioned against a completed individually and efficiently. Each sub-sec-
wall or similar object for safety. Keep hands, feet, tion has (as necessary) Removing, Disassembling,
and clothing away from moving components. Cleaning and Inspecting, Assembling, and Installing
procedures. Some components may vary from model
2. Start the engine and accelerate slightly. Use only to model. The technician should use discretion and
enough throttle to rotate the track several revolu- sound judgment when removing and installing compo-
tions. SHUT THE ENGINE OFF. nents.
„NOTE: Allow the track to coast to a stop. Do not „NOTE: Critical torque specifications are located
apply the brake because it could produce inaccu- on page 6 of this section.
rate alignment conditions.
„NOTE: Some illustrations and photographs used
3. When the track stops rotating, check the relation- in this sub-section are used for clarity purposes
ship of the rear idler wheels and the inner track only and are not designed to depict actual condi-
drive lugs. If the distance from the idler wheels to tions.
the inner drive lugs is the same on both sides, no
adjustment is necessary.
Removing Skid Frame

„NOTE: Many service procedures can be per-

formed without removing the skid frame. Closely
observe the note introducing each sub-section for
this important information.

1. To avoid having the adjuster bushings binding dur-

ing loosening of the track, remove the rear idler
wheel caps and loosen the cap screws on the rear
axle.

725-070A
4. On the side of the track, which has the inner drive
lugs closer to the rear idler wheel, loosen the
adjusting bolt jam nut; then rotate the adjusting
bolt clockwise 1-1 1/2 turns.
5. Continue to check the track alignment and make
the necessary adjustments until proper alignment
is obtained.
6. After proper track alignment is obtained, lock the
jam nut against the axle housing.
„NOTE: Make sure correct track tension is main- FS248A
tained after adjusting track alignment. 2. Loosen the jam nuts and two track-tension adjust-
ing bolts.
! CAUTION
After proper track tension and alignment have been
attained, make certain that the rear axle assembly is
tightened to specifications or component damage
will occur.

„NOTE: Field test the track under actual condi-

tions and after the field test, check track alignment
and track tension; adjust as necessary.

9-72
 FS249A MS016B
3. Place a support stand under the rear bumper; then „NOTE: If the skid frame has been removed due to
while holding the flared bushing, remove the rear difficulty in removing the wear strip, it may be nec-
cap screws securing the skid frame to the tunnel.
Account for lock washers and flat washers. essary to use a pipe wrench, start from either end,
and hook the edge of the wear strip with the pipe
„NOTE: The support stand should hold the snow- wrench jaw and twist the wear strip off the slide
mobile level but not raised off the floor. rail. Move the pipe wrench 7.5 cm (3 in.) and again
twist the wear strip off the rail. Repeat this proce-
4. Remove the front cap screws securing the skid dure until the wear strip is free of the rail.
frame to the tunnel. Account for a flat washer and
a lock washer. 2. Align the wear strip with the openings (windows)
in the track; then using a suitable driving tool,
5. Remove the support stand; then tip the snow- drive the wear strip rearward off the slide rail.
mobile onto one side using a piece of cardboard to
protect against scratching. Remove the skid frame.

739-884A

MS132
CLEANING AND INSPECTING

Wear Strips „NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

REMOVING
necessary. 9
1. Clean the slide rail using parts-cleaning solvent
„NOTE: The skid frame does not have to be and compressed air.
removed for this procedure; however, if wear strip
binding or slide rail damage has occurred, the skid ! WARNING
frame should be removed for this procedure (see Always wear an approved pair of safety glasses
Removing Skid Frame in this sub-section). when using compressed air.

1. Remove the machine screw and lock nut securing 2. Inspect the slide rail for cracks. If any cracks are
the wear strip to the front of the slide rail. found, replace the slide rail.

9-73
 3. Using a straightedge, inspect the slide rail for any
unusual bends. With the slide rail removed, place
the straightedge along the bottom surface of the
slide rail. If the rail is found to be bent, it must be
replaced.

MS016A
2. Using a hammer, tap the end cap off the rail.
CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

AG536D
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.
INSTALLING
1. Inspect the end cap area of the slide rail for cracks
„NOTE: Apply a light coat of grease to the slide and wear.
rail surface to aid in installing a new wear strip. If
there are any sharp edges on the lower portion of
the rail, use a file to remove them.

1. Align the wear strip with the openings (windows)

in the track and from the back, start the wear strip
onto the rail; then using a block of wood and a
hammer, drive the wear strip forward into posi-
tion.

MS017A
2. Inspect the end cap for any signs of cracking or
wear.

739-884A
2. Secure with a machine screw and lock nut. Tighten
to specifications.

End Caps

„NOTE: The skid frame does not have to be MS290A

removed for this procedure. 3. Clean both the slide rail area and the end cap.
Using compressed air, clean the areas of dirt and
REMOVING gravel.
1. Remove the lock nut, washers, and cap screw ! WARNING
securing the end cap.
Always wear an approved pair of safety glasses
when using compressed air.

9-74
 4. Inspect the cap screw for cracked, stretched, or REMOVING
damaged threads. Use a new lock nut when assem-
bling. 1. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
front outer idler wheel and the idler wheel mount-
INSTALLING ing block.
1. Position the end cap on the slide rail; then align the
hole in the end cap with the hole in the slide rail.
2. Secure with a cap screw, washers, and lock nut.
Tighten to specifications.

Shock Pads

„NOTE: The skid frame does not have to be

removed for this procedure.

REMOVING MS133A

„NOTE: The shock pads should be removed only if

being replaced.

1. Using a 3/16-in. drill bit, drill out the rivets secur-

ing the front shock pads to the slide rail. Account
for the retaining brackets.
2. Twist the push nuts off the solid rivets securing the
rear shock pads.
3. Remove the shock pads.
INSPECTING
MS134A
„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively, 2. Account for flat washers and spacers.
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary. CLEANING AND INSPECTING

1. Inspect the pads for damage or wear. „NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
2. Inspect the rivet holes in the slide rail for damage necessary.
or elongation.
1. Clean the bearing with a clean cloth.
INSTALLING
2. Inspect each idler wheel and each plastic hub for
1. Place the rear pads into position on the slide rail. cracks or damage.
2. Secure the rear pads with new push nuts.
3. Place the front pads and retaining brackets into
3. Rotate the idler wheel bearing (by hand) and
inspect for binding or roughness. 9
position on the slide rail. 4. If a bearing must be replaced, use this procedure.
4. Secure the front pads with rivets.
! CAUTION
Do not remove the bearing unless it is absolutely
Front Outer necessary. The bearing will be damaged during
Idler Wheels removal.

A. Remove the wheel insert (if applicable) and the

„NOTE: The skid frame does not have to be snap ring.
removed for this procedure. B. Using a hydraulic press, press the bearing out
the inside of the wheel.

9-75
 C. Press the new bearing (on its outer race) into
the idler wheel.

MS009A
2. Place the idler wheel to the mounting block; then
secure the idler wheel assembly with a cap screw,
MS006A flat washer, and a lock nut. Tighten to specifica-
D. Install the snap ring making sure the “sharp tions.
side” is directed away from the bearing.

MS136
MS007A
E. Install the insert (if applicable).
Rear Inner Idler Wheels

„NOTE: The skid frame does not have to be

removed for this procedure.

REMOVING

1. Remove the cap screws, washers, and lock nuts

securing the rear inner idler wheel and the idler
wheel mounting block. Account for all mounting
hardware.

MS008

INSTALLING

1. Secure the mounting block on the slide rail with a

cap screw and lock nut. Tighten to specifications.
„NOTE: For proper alignment, it is advisable to
install an idler wheel cap screw into the top mount-
ing block hole prior to tightening.

MS137
2. Note the locations of the flat washer for assembly
purposes.

9-76
 MS138 MS007A
E. Install the insert (if applicable).
CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Clean the bearing with a clean cloth.

2. Inspect each idler wheel and plastic hub for cracks
or damage.
3. Rotate the idler wheel bearings (by hand) and
inspect for binding or roughness.
4. If a bearing must be replaced, use this procedure. MS008

! CAUTION INSTALLING
Do not remove the bearing unless it is absolutely
necessary. The bearing will be damaged during 1. Secure the mounting block on the slide rail with a
removal. cap screw and lock nut. Tighten to specifications.

A. Remove the wheel insert (if applicable) and the

snap ring.
B. Using a hydraulic press, press the bearing out
the inside of the wheel.
C. Press the new bearing (on its outer race) into
the idler wheel.

9
MS139

„NOTE: For proper alignment, it is advisable to

install an idler wheel cap screw into the top mount-
ing block hole prior to tightening.

MS006A
D. Install the snap ring making sure the “sharp
side” is directed away from the bearing.

9-77
 MS140A AG624DA
2. Place the idler wheel into position against the „NOTE: Steps 2 and 3 are for the Crossfire Mod-
mounting block making sure there is a flat washer els.
on the cap screw. Tighten to specifications.
2. Mark the offset pivot idler and the idler arm for
assembly purposes.

MS141

Rear Upper Idler MS142

3. Remove the cap screws securing the offset pivot
Wheels/Rear Springs idler arm assembly to the idler arm; then remove
the offset pivot arm idler assembly.
„NOTE: The skid frame must be removed for this
procedure (see Removing Skid Frame in this sub-
section).

REMOVING

1. Using the Rear Suspension Spring Tool (p/n 0144-

311), remove the spring from the adjusting cam.

! WARNING
Care must be taken when removing the spring or
damage or injury could result.
MS064

„NOTE: Account for a flanged axle, flared bush-

ing, idler spacer collar, and lock nuts.

4. Remove the idler wheel.

„NOTE: Use Idler Wheel Puller Kit (p/n 0644-122)
to remove the wheel.

9-78
 7. Remove the spring and sleeve from the idler arm.

MS143
5. Remove the cap screw and flat washer securing
the front outer idler wheel to the mounting block; MS145

then remove the idler wheel. „NOTE: Use the same procedure for the other
side.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Clean the bearing with a clean cloth.

2. Inspect each idler wheel and plastic hub for cracks
or damage.
3. Rotate the idler wheel bearings (by hand) and
MS133A inspect for binding or roughness.
6. Remove the cap screw, flat washer, and lock nut
securing the spring slide to the slide rail. Account 4. If a bearing must be replaced, use this procedure.
for the spring slide and all mounting hardware.
! CAUTION
Do not remove the bearing unless it is absolutely
necessary. The bearing will be damaged during
removal.

A. Remove the wheel insert (if applicable) and the

snap ring.
B. Using a hydraulic press, press the bearing out
the inside of the wheel.
C. Press the new bearing (on its outer race) into
the idler wheel. 9
MS144A

MS006A

MS014

9-79
 D. Install the snap ring making sure the “sharp
side” is directed away from the bearing.

MS014

MS007A
E. Install the insert (if applicable).

MS015
3. Install the rear upper idler wheel on the idler arm.

MS008
5. Inspect the spring, spring slide, sleeve, washers,
slide block insert, and shaft area for wear.
6. Inspect the adjusting cams and arms for cracks.
INSTALLING

1. Slide the sleeve and spring onto the idler arm.

AG545D

! CAUTION
When driving the idler wheel onto the idler arm, use
a tool to contact the inside race of the bearing or
damage to the wheel or bearing may occur.

MS145
2. Place the spring slide and slide block (with spring
in slide block) into position on the slide rail.
Secure with a cap screw and washer. Tighten to
specifications.

MS072A

9-80
 4. Install the idler spacer collar onto the idler arm.
Rear Axle and
Idler Wheels

„NOTE: The skid frame must be removed for this

procedure (see Removing Skid Frame in this sub-
section).

DISASSEMBLING

1. Remove the cap screw and large flat washer secur-

ing the outer rear idler wheel. Remove the outer
idler wheel from the shaft.
MS064

„NOTE: Steps 5 and 6 are for the Crossfire models.

5. Place the flared bushing with a thin flat washer

through the notched side of the offset pivot idler
arm assembly.
„NOTE: If the flared bushing in the offset pivot idler
arm is loose, it must be cleaned and green Loctite
#609 must be applied to it prior to installation.

6. Align the marks on the idler arm to the centerline

of the offset pivot idler arm assembly. Secure the
offset pivot idler arm to the idler arm with cap FC194
screws and lock nuts. Tighten to specifications.
„NOTE: The large flat side of the wheel insert is
positioned next to the inner plastic adjuster bush-
ing. The idler wheel must be installed with the
wheel insert properly positioned.

2. Loosen the track adjusting bolts. Slide the outer

adjuster bushings off the axle.

MS146A

„NOTE: When tightening the pivot idler arm lock

nuts, tighten the lower lock nut first or binding may
occur. 9
MS147A

MS019B

9-81
 MS148 MS006A
3. Carefully slide the shaft out from the slide rails D. Install the snap ring making sure the “sharp
and note the position of the spacers and washers. side” is directed away from the bearing.
CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Clean the bearings with a clean cloth.

2. Inspect all idler wheel inserts (inner and outer) for
any cracks.
3. Inspect the outer rubber portion of the idler wheels
for cracks and poor bonding.
MS007A
4. Inspect the plastic insert of each idler wheel for
cracks. E. Install the insert (if applicable).

5. Inspect the shaft for wear and damaged threads.

6. Inspect all idler wheel bearings. Turn each bearing
(by hand) and if any roughness or binding is noted,
replace the bearing.
7. If a bearing must be replaced, use this procedure.

! CAUTION
Do not remove the bearing unless it is absolutely
necessary. The bearing will be damaged during
removal.
MS008
A. Remove the wheel insert (if applicable) and the
snap ring.
ASSEMBLING
B. Using a hydraulic press, press the bearing out
the inside of the wheel. 1. In order from one side, slide the axle through the
slide rail; then place a flat washer, short spacer
C. Press the new bearing (on its outer race) into with bushings, inner idler wheels with inserts (if
the idler wheel. applicable), long spacer with bushings, and flat
washer on the axle. Slide the axle through the
opposite slide rail axle bracket. Place the plastic
adjuster bushings on the axle (on the outside of
each axle bracket). Make sure the hole in the
adjuster bushing is aligned directly with the
adjusting bolt.

9-82
 Rear Arm/Idler Arm

„NOTE: The skid frame must be removed for this

procedure (see Removing Skid Frame in this sub-
section).

DISASSEMBLING

1. Remove the rear upper idler wheels and springs

(see Rear Upper Idler Wheels/Rear Springs in this
sub-section).
MS150

MS151A MS153

2. Place the outer idler wheels on the axle and secure 2. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
with two cap screws (coated with blue Loctite upper shock eyelet to the idler arm. Account for a
#243) and large flat washers. Tighten cap screws spacer, cap screw, and lock nut.
only until snug.

MS154A

9
MS152
„NOTE: Mark the hole that the upper shock links
„NOTE: It is advisable to tighten the rear idler are mounted in for assembly purposes.
wheel axle only until snug until the skid frame has
been installed and track tension has been
adjusted; then the axle assembly must be tight-
ened to specifications.

3. Install the skid frame (see Installing Skid Frame in

this sub-section).
4. Adjust track alignment (see Track Alignment in
this sub-section).
5. Adjust track tension deflection (see Track Tension
in this sub-section).

MS155

9-83
 3. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
upper shock links to the idler arm. Account for a
cap screw, lock nut, spacer, and axle links.

ZJ269A

MS156A

MS028
5. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
rear arm to the idler arm. Account for the alumi-
num axle and bushing assemblies.
MS031
4. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
rear arm to the slide rail. Account for the serrated
axles and axle tube.

MS029A

ZJ268A

„NOTE: To remove the rear arm, it may be neces-

sary to loosen the rear arm limiter.

MS030

9-84
CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Clean the bearings with a clean cloth.

2. Inspect each idler wheel for cracks or damage.
3. Inspect the bushings (located in the arm pivot
area) for wear or damage.
4. Inspect all welds and the tubing of the upper arm
for cracks or unusual bends. MS007A

5. Inspect the two adjusting cams for damage. ASSEMBLING

6. Rotate the idler wheel bearings (by hand) and 1. Install the rear arm onto the idler arm with an alu-
check for binding or roughness. minum axle, bushing assemblies, and two cap
screws (coated with blue Loctite #243). Tighten
7. If a bearing must be replaced, use this procedure. only until snug.
! CAUTION
Do not remove the bearing unless it is absolutely
necessary. The bearing will be damaged during
removal.

A. Remove the wheel snap ring.

B. Using a hydraulic press, press the bearing out
the inside of the wheel.
C. Press the new bearing (on its outer race) into
the idler wheel.
MS029A
2. Place the rear arm assembly into position between
the slide rails. Secure with a cap screw and lock
nut. Tighten to specifications.

MS006A
9
D. Install the snap ring making sure the “sharp
side” is directed away from the bearing.

MS157
3. With the rear arm secured to the slide rails, tighten
the two cap screws (from step 1) to specifications.

9-85
 MS159 MS026

„NOTE: If the rear arm limiter was loosened (after 5. Place the upper shock eyelet with bushings
step 4 of disassembling), treat the threads of the
between the idler arm brackets making sure the
spacer is properly positioned between the brack-
cap screw with blue Loctite #243 and tighten to ets. Secure with a cap screw and lock nut. Tighten
specifications. securely.

MS158 MS160
4. Position the shock links in the appropriate holes of „NOTE: Do not over-tighten the shock absorber
the idler arm brackets (see Chassis and Skid Frame
Mounting Locations in this section). Place a cap screw as the shock eyelet must be free to
spacer between the center of the brackets; then pivot.
place a flat washer on the cap screw. Insert the
axle links into the upper shock link eyelets; then ! CAUTION
insert the cap screw through the eyelets. Secure
with a cap screw and lock nut. Tighten securely. Make certain that the shock pivot assembly is prop-
erly positioned prior to securing the shock absorber
to the idler arm.

MS031

739-992A

„NOTE: It is advisable to install the rear arm

springs onto the adjuster blocks after the skid
frame has been installed.

9-86
 6. Grease the idler arm and rear arm grease fittings
with a low-temperature grease.
7. Install the rear upper idler wheels, rear springs,
and offset pivot idler (see Rear Upper Idler
Wheels/Rear Springs in this sub-section).

Front Arm/
Front Arm Brackets/
Front Shock Absorber
MS163A
„NOTE: The skid frame must be removed for this
procedure (see Removing Skid Frame in this sub-
section), and the rear springs must be removed
from the adjusting cams.

REMOVING

1. Remove the lower cap screws and lock nuts secur-

ing the limiter straps to the rail support. Account
for flat washers.

MS992A
4. Remove the front arm and account for the two
front arm spacers.

MS161A
2. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
upper front shock absorber eyelet to the front arm.
Pull the shock eyelet free of the bracket. Account
for a serrated axle.

MS164
5. Remove the cap screws securing the front outer
idler wheels to the idler wheel mounting block.
Account for lock nuts, cap screws, shim washers
(if applicable), and flat washers.
9

MS162A
3. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the
front arm to the front arm mounting brackets.

MS133A

9-87
 6. Remove the cap screw, washer, and lock nut from
the front shock axle; then from one side, tap the
assembly rearward far enough for the axle assem-
bly to clear the slide rails. Account for an axle, two
spacers, and two shim washers.
„NOTE: It is advisable to loosen the front rail sup-
port cap screws enough to gain clearance to
remove the front shock axle.

MS169B
8. Move the assembly rearward far enough to gain
access to the front arm mounting bracket lock
nuts; then remove the cap screws and lock nuts
securing the brackets to the slide rails.

MS165A

MS169A

INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

MS166 cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Inspect all front arm weldments for cracks or

unusual bends; then inspect the front arm mount-
ing brackets for cracks and for elongated holes.
2. Closely inspect all tubing for cracks or unusual
bends.
3. Inspect the bearings, bushings, and front arm spac-
ers for wear or damage.
4. Inspect the shock absorber for any signs of oil
leakage especially at the point where the shock
MS167 shaft enters the shock body.
7. Remove the lock nut and cap screw securing the
rear shock pivot/inner idler wheel assembly to the 5. Inspect the shock absorber eyelet welds (at each
slide rail. end) for any cracks, signs of separation, or for
unthreading.
6. Inspect the shock absorber and reservoir hoses (on
models with remote adjuster) for damage.

9-88
INSTALLING

1. Install the front arm mounting brackets to the slide

rails. Secure with cap screws and lock nuts tight-
ened to specifications.

FC178
4. Place the front arm shock axle assembly into posi-
tion on the skid frame making sure the spacers and
washers are properly positioned. Secure with the
cap screw, washer, and a new lock nut. Tighten to
specifications.
MS170
2. Move the rear shock pivot/inner idler wheel „NOTE: If the front rail support cap screws were
assembly to the appropriate mounting location. loosened (after step 6 of removing), treat the
Secure with cap screws and lock nuts tightened to threads with blue Loctite #243 and tighten to spec-
specifications. ifications.

MS171
MS172
5. Position the front arm with spacers into the mount-
ing brackets. Secure with cap screws and lock
nuts. Tighten to specifications.

MS993
3. Install the axle into the lower shock eyelet bushing
assembly; then install the two spacers and the two
shim washers.
MS173

9-89
 MS991 MS133A
6. Secure the upper shock eyelet and serrated axle in
the appropriate mounting hole of the front arm
(standard arm mounting position). Secure with a Rear Shock Absorber
cap screw and lock nut. Tighten securely. and Shock Links/
Front Inner Idler Wheel
Assembly

„NOTE: Before removing the skid frame by using

the Rear Suspension Spring Tool (p/n 0144-311),
remove the spring from the adjusting cam.

! WARNING
Care must be taken when removing the spring from
the adjusting cam or damage or injury could result.

MS174 „NOTE: The skid frame must be removed for this

„NOTE: Do not over-tighten the shock absorber procedure (see Removing Skid Frame in this sub-
cap screw as the shock eyelet must be free to section).
pivot.
DISASSEMBLING
7. Secure the limiter straps with cap screws, washers,
and lock nuts. Tighten to specifications. „NOTE: When removing center components from
the skid frame, it is advisable to loosen all cap
screws/lock nuts from one side of the slide rail to
make removing easier.

1. Disengage the shock absorber at the upper eyelet

and remove the shock absorber. Account for a
sleeve, cap screw, lock nut, and bushings.

MS161A
8. Secure the front outer idler wheels to the idler
wheel mounting blocks with cap screws, flat
washers, shim washers (if applicable), axles, and
lock nuts. Tighten to specifications.

MS175A

9-90
 AG665D MS178
2. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the „NOTE: To access the front inner idler wheel
shock rod links to the idler arm. Account for a assembly, the front outer idler wheels must be
spacer and two axle links.
removed.

MS176A
MS183A
„NOTE: Mark the hole that the upper shock links 4. Remove the axle from the shock pivot. Account
are mounted in for assembling purposes. for an axle, three spacers, and four washers.

9
MS025 MS179
3. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the „NOTE: Lay components out in order as they are
front inner idler wheel assembly to the slide rails;
then from one side, tap the assembly rearward far removed.
enough to clear the slide rails and mounting brack-
ets. Remove the assembly. 5. With the pivot assembly removed, remove the cap
screw and lock nut securing the lower shock eyelet
and links to the pivot bracket. Account for a spacer
and two link axles.

9-91
 B. Using a hydraulic press, press the bearing out
the inside of the wheel.
C. Press the new bearing (on its outer race) into
the idler wheel.

MS180

MS006A
D. Install the snap ring making sure the “sharp
side” is directed away from the bearing.

MS181

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Clean shock pivot and idler wheel axle in part- MS007A

cleaning solvent. Dry with compressed air. E. Install the insert (if applicable).

! WARNING
Always wear an approved pair of safety glasses
when using compressed air.

2. Clean the idler wheel bearings with a clean cloth.

3. Closely inspect the torque link arm and axles for
wear, bends, or damaged splines at either end.
4. Inspect the idler wheels for signs of cracking,
wear, or outer rubber separation from plastic
wheel.
5. Rotate the idler wheel bearings (by hand) and MS008
inspect for any signs of binding or roughness. 7. Inspect the shock absorber for any signs of oil
6. If a bearing must be replaced, use this procedure. leakage especially at the point where the shock
shaft enters the shock body.
! CAUTION 8. Inspect the rubber shock bushings located in the
Do not remove the bearing unless it is absolutely
shock absorber eyelets for cracks or deterioration.
necessary. The bearing will be damaged during 9. Inspect the shock absorber eyelet welds (at each
removal. end) for any cracks or signs of separation.
A. Remove wheel insert (if applicable) and the
snap ring.

9-92
10. Inspect the welds securing the eyelets of the shock
links for cracks or signs of separation. Either weld
the eyelet or replace the shock link.
11. Inspect the axle surfaces for any signs of corro-
sion. If corrosion is found, lightly buff the surface
of the axle with #400 wet-or-dry sandpaper; then
apply a light coat of grease.
ASSEMBLING

1. Secure the shock rod links (with axles) and the

lower end of the shock absorber to the pivot
assembly with the cap screw and lock nut. Tighten MS179A
securely.
4. Lower the pivot assembly down between the rails.
Align the axle with the mounting hole (as noted
during disassembling). Secure with the cap screw
and a new lock nut. Tighten to specifications.

MS180

„NOTE: Do not over-tighten the shock absorber

cap screw as the shock eyelet must be free to
pivot. MS993
5. Position the rear arm/idler arm so the rear springs
2. Apply a thin coat of low-temperature grease to the can be installed into the slide blocks.
axle and slide the axle into the shock pivot
bracket. Have equal amounts of the axle exposed 6. Position the shock links in the appropriate holes of
on either side of the bracket tube. the idler arm brackets (as noted in disassembling).
Place a spacer between the center of the brackets;
then insert the link axles into the upper shock link
eyelets. Secure with a cap screw, washer, and lock
nut. Tighten securely.

FC189
3. Install a washer (A), idler wheel (B), washer (C),
and spacer (D) to each side of the pivot bracket
(E).
MS176A
7. Secure the shock absorber to the idler arm with
bushings, sleeve, lock nut, and a cap screw.
Tighten securely.

9-93
 MS175A MS016A

„NOTE: Do not over-tighten the shock absorber 2. Remove the machine screw and lock nut securing
cap screw as the shock eyelet must be free to
the wear strip to the front of the slide rail.
pivot.

! CAUTION
When installing the shock and shock rod links to the
idler arm, make certain that the pivot assembly is
positioned correctly (in the UP position).

MS213A
3. Align the wear strip with the openings (windows)
in the track; then using a suitable driving tool,
drive the wear strip rearward off the slide rail.
„NOTE: If binding of the wear strip occurs, it may
be necessary to use a pipe wrench, start from
either end, and hook the edge of the wear strip
739-992A
with the pipe wrench jaw and twist the wear strip
off the slide rail. Move the pipe wrench 7.5 cm (3
Slide Rails in.) and again twist the wear strip off the rail.
Repeat this procedure until the wear strip is free of
the rail.
„NOTE: The skid frame must be removed for this
procedure (see Removing Skid Frame in this sub- 4. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts with flat
section). washers from the lower limiter straps.

REMOVING

„NOTE: When it is necessary to replace one or

both slide rails, it is recommended that one slide
rail be removed at a time. The remaining slide rail
will then hold the crossbraces, axles, and brackets
in their correct assembly order. Always mark the
mounting hole locations during disassembly to
speed up the assembly process and to prevent any
damage. This method is much quicker than to
completely disassemble the entire skid frame. To
replace either rail, use the following procedure.
MS161A

1. Remove the end cap from the slide rail. Account 5. Remove the cap screws securing the rail support to
for a cap screw, lock nut, and two flat washers. the slide rail.

9-94
 MS182A MS185A
6. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the „NOTE: If it is necessary to remove the cap screw
front outer idler wheels and the idler wheel mount- for replacing the slide rail, install the cap screw
ing blocks. Account for flat washers and spacer
washers. from the opposite side into the assembly to secure
components and aid in replacing the slide rail.
„NOTE: The idler wheel mounting block should be
removed only from the slide rail being replaced. „NOTE: If not already done, remove the short
spring leg from the adjusting cam. Also, it is rec-
ommended that the top cap screw be removed
from the front shock absorber to aid in slide rail
installing.

8. Remove the cap screw and flat washer securing

the spring slide to the rail. Account for a spacer
and the slide block.

MS183A

MS186A
9. Note the mounting location for installing pur-
poses; then remove the cap screw and lock nut
securing the front inner idler wheel assembly to
the slide rails. 9
MS184A
7. Remove the cap screw, washers, and lock nut
securing the front shock mount axle.

MS187A

9-95
10. Note the mounting position of the front arm
mounting bracket; then remove the cap screws
securing the front arm mounting bracket. Account
for lock nuts.

MS191A
13. Remove the cap screws, lock washers, and lock
nuts from the rear arm limiter and rear arm.

MS188A

„NOTE: After removing the mounting bracket cap

screw, install the front inner idler wheel assembly
cap screw from the opposite side slide rail (not
being replaced) to hold center components in
place.

ZJ269A

MS190A
11. Note the mounting location for installing pur-
poses; then remove the cap screw and lock nut
securing the rear inner idler wheels and mounting
block.
ZJ268A
14. Remove the idler wheel cap; then remove the cap
screw and flat washer securing the rear idler
wheel. Remove the idler wheel; then remove the
adjuster bushing.

MS189A
12. Remove the cap screws securing the rail supports
to the slide rail.

FC194

9-96
 18. Twist the push nuts off the solid rivets securing the
rear shock pads; then remove the pads.
„NOTE: The shock pads should be removed only if
being replaced.

19. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
brace to the slide rail.

MS192

„NOTE: The adjusting bolt may have to be loos-

ened to remove the adjuster bushing.

15. On the Crossfire models, mark the location of the

rear coupler block; then remove the block.
Account for the block, bushing, cap screw, and
lock nut.
MS194

INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Inspect the slide rail for cracks (A), elongated

holes (B), or unusual bends.

FS083C

„NOTE: At this point, the slide rail should be free

of the skid frame components and can be
removed.

16. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the
track adjuster bracket.

MS220A
2. Inspect the wear strip for wear. The wear strip
must be 10.7 mm (0.42 in.) thick or thicker. If the 9
wear strip measurement is less than specified,
replacement of both wear strips is necessary.

MS193A
17. Using a drill and a 3/16-in. drill bit, drill out the
rivets and remove the front shock pads. Note the
shock pad locations for installation. Account for
the retaining brackets.

9-97
 AG530D MS192

„NOTE: Make certain the adjuster bushing is prop-

erly positioned.

0727-726

INSTALLING
MS192A
1. Install the shock pads and secure with rivets
(front) or with new push nuts (rear).
2. Secure the track adjuster bracket with the cap
screws and lock nuts. Tighten to specifications.

FC194

„NOTE: It is advisable to tighten the rear idler

wheel axle only until snug until the skid frame has
been installed and track tension has been
MS193A adjusted; then the axle assembly must be tight-
3. Place the rail into position; then install the adjuster ened to specifications.
bushing and rear idler wheel. Install a cap screw
and flat washer. Tighten only until snug. 4. Install the rear arm cap screw; then install the rear
arm limiter cap screw. Tighten only until snug.

9-98
 7. Install the rear inner idler wheel mounting block in
the appropriate holes as noted during disassembly
and secure with cap screw and lock nut. Tighten to
specifications.
„NOTE: For proper alignment, it is advisable to
install an idler wheel cap screw into the top mount-
ing block hole prior to tightening.

ZJ268A

MS196A
8. Secure the front arm mounting bracket with the
cap screws and lock nuts. Tighten to specifica-
tions.

ZJ269A
5. Install coupler block w/bushing. Secure with cap
screw and lock nut. Tighten securely.

MS197
9. Install the cap screw (if removed) and lock nut
securing the front inner idler wheel assembly to
the slide rails. Tighten only until snug.
MS195A
6. Install the cap screw securing the rail support to
the slide rail. Tighten only until snug.
9

MS198A
10. Install the front arm shock axle to the proper hole
as noted in removing; then secure with the cap
MS191A screw, washers, and the lock nut. Tighten only
until snug.

9-99
 MS201A MS204
11. Position the rear arm spring to the rear arm and 14. Install the upper shock mount to the front arm.
place the spring into the slide block; then place the Tighten securely.
spring slide and slide block assembly into position
on the slide rail. Secure with a cap screw and
washer. Tighten to specifications.

MS162A

„NOTE: Do not over-tighten the shock absorber

MS202 cap screw as the shock eyelet must be free to
12. Secure the outer idler wheel mounting block with pivot.
the cap screw and lock nut. Tighten to specifica-
tions. 15. Secure the rail supports with cap screws (coated
with blue Loctite #243). Tighten to specifications.
„NOTE: To obtain proper alignment for the idler
wheel cap screw, place the cap screw in the top
hole through the rail and mounting block prior to
tightening.

MS205

„NOTE: At this point, tighten the mounting hard-

ware from the following steps to specifications: 4,
6, 9, and 10.
MS009A
13. Secure the outer and inner idler wheels to the 16. Install the front arm limiter straps to the front rail
mounting blocks with existing hardware. Tighten supports. Tighten to specifications.
to specifications.

9-100
 MS161A MS207
17. Secure the end cap onto the slide rail using a cap
screw, flat washers, and a lock nut. Tighten to
specifications.

MS016B
19. After the skid frame has been installed, adjust
track tension deflection (see Track Tension in this
sub-section) and track alignment (see Track Align-
MS206A
ment in this sub-section).
„NOTE: Apply a light coat of grease to the slide
rail surface to aid in installing a new wear strip. If
there are any sharp edges on the lower portion of Installing Skid Frame
the rail, use a file to remove them.
1. Place a piece of cardboard on the floor to protect
against scratching and tip the snowmobile onto
one side.
2. Pull the track away from the tunnel and spread
open; then place the skid frame into the track.
3. Position the front of the skid frame into the tunnel
and align the front arm with the appropriate
mounting hole in the tunnel. Insert the cap screw
with washers through the tunnel mounting hole
and through the front arm. DO NOT TIGHTEN 9
AT THIS TIME. Repeat this procedure on the
other side.
MS288
18. From the back, start the wear strip onto the rail; ! CAUTION
then using a soft hammer, drive the wear strip for-
ward into position. Secure with a machine screw When installing the skid frame, make sure the rear
and lock nut. Tighten to specifications. arm shock mounting location on the pivot/axle is
positioned correctly above the axle or component
damage will occur.

9-101
 Setup After Break-In
Model
Tension Tension
Crossfire 51-64 mm 51-57 mm
(2-2 1/2 in.) @ 20 lb (2-2 1/4 in.) @ 20 lb
M-Series 51-64 mm 51-64 mm
(2-2 1/2 in.) @ 20 lb (2-2 1/2 in.) @ 20 lb

739-992A

„NOTE: To aid in centering the front arm with the

hole in the tunnel, position the skid frame and
track at a 45° angle to the bottom of the tunnel.

4. Elevate the rear of the skid frame and the track

into position in the tunnel. 729-429A

5. Align the pivot idler arm assembly with the appro- „NOTE: If the track is new, it will stretch slightly
priate hole in the tunnel. Secure the pivot idler arm and take a “set” within the first 300 to 500 miles of
assembly with a cap screw (coated with red Loc- operation.
tite #271), lock washer, and flat washer. DO NOT
TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME. ADJUSTING DEFLECTION
„NOTE: Do not install the short legs of the rear
springs onto the adjusting cams at this time. 1. Place the snowmobile up on a shielded safety
stand. Check to make sure the track is 2-3 in. off
6. At this time, tighten all four skid frame mounting the floor.
cap screws securely. 2. If the measurement is not as specified, loosen the
7. Using the Rear Suspension Spring Tool (p/n 0144- jam nuts of the adjusting bolts.
311), install the short legs of the rear springs onto
the adjusting cams making sure the cams are in the
same adjustment positions.
8. Tighten the two track tension adjusting bolt evenly
until track deflection is within specifications; then
lock the jam nuts to secure the adjustment.
9. Check track tension deflection and alignment;
adjust if necessary (see Track Tension and Track
Alignment in this sub-section).

Track Tension
0727-456
3. If the measurement obtained in step 2 is more than
! WARNING specified, tighten the adjusting bolts. If the mea-
surement obtained is less than specified, loosen
Deactivate all switches. the adjusting bolts. When the measurement is
within specification range, lock the adjustment by
CHECKING DEFLECTION bottoming the jam nuts against the axle housings.
1. Tip the snowmobile on its side. „NOTE: If the track tension must be loosened, it
may be necessary to loosen the rear axle assem-
2. Hook a spring scale around a track clip at mid- bly slightly.
span; then pull the track down with the scale and
measure the distance between the bottom of the „NOTE: Vigorously push the underside of the
wear strip and the inside surface of the track clip. track up and down. Track must not hit the top of
Track deflection must be within specifications. the tunnel or slap the skid frame.

9-102
 4. After correct track tension is obtained, check track
alignment (see Track Alignment in this sub-sec-
tion).
„NOTE: Track tension and track alignment are
interrelated; always check both even if only one
adjustment seems necessary. Always establish
correct track tension before checking and/or
adjusting alignment.

! CAUTION
After proper track tension and alignment have been
attained, make certain that the rear axle assembly is 725-070A
tightened to specifications or component damage 4. On the side of the track which has the inner drive
will occur. lugs closer to the rear idler wheel, loosen the
adjusting bolt jam nut; then rotate the adjusting
bolt clockwise 1-1 1/2 turns.
Track Alignment „NOTE: If the track tension must be loosened, it
may be necessary to loosen the rear axle assem-
„NOTE: Proper track alignment is when the rear bly slightly.
idler wheels are equidistant from the inner drive
lugs on the inside surface of the track.
5. Continue to check the track alignment and make
the necessary adjustments until proper alignment
is obtained.
CHECKING
6. After proper track alignment is obtained, lock the
1. Using a shielded safety stand, raise the rear of the jam nut against the axle housing.
snowmobile off the floor making sure the track is
free to rotate. „NOTE: Make sure correct track tension is main-
tained after adjusting track alignment.
! WARNING
The tips of the skis must be positioned against a ! CAUTION
wall or similar object for safety. Keep hands, feet, After proper track tension and alignment have been
and clothing away from moving components. attained, make certain that the rear axle assembly is
tightened to specifications or component damage
2. Start the engine and accelerate slightly. Use only will occur.
enough throttle to rotate the track several revolu-
tions. SHUT THE ENGINE OFF.
„NOTE: Field test the track under actual condi-
„NOTE: Allow the track to coast to a stop. Do not tions and, after the field test, check track align-
apply the brake because it could produce inaccu- ment and track tension; adjust as necessary.
rate alignment conditions.

3. When the track stops rotating, check the relation-

ship of the rear idler wheels and the inner track
drive lugs. If the distance from the idler wheels to
the inner drive lugs is the same on both sides, no
9
adjustment is necessary.

9-103
 Repair Procedure 4 -
Track/Rear Suspension

This Track/Rear Suspension sub-section (Repair Pro-

cedure 4) has been organized so each procedure can be
completed individually and efficiently. Each sub-sec-
tion has (as necessary) Removing, Disassembling,
Cleaning and Inspecting, Assembling, and Installing
procedures. Some components may vary from model
to model. The technician should use discretion and
sound judgment when removing and installing compo- FS249A
nents.
3. Place a support stand under the rear bumper; then
„NOTE: Critical torque specifications are located while holding the flared bushing, remove the rear
on page 6 of this section. cap screws securing the skid frame to the tunnel.
Account for lock washers and flat washers.
„NOTE: Some illustrations and photographs used
„NOTE: The support stand should hold the snow-
in this sub-section are used for clarity purposes
mobile level but not raised off the floor.
only and are not designed to depict actual condi-
tions.
4. Remove the support stand; then tip the snow-
mobile onto one side using a piece of cardboard to
protect against scratching.
Removing Skid Frame
5. Slide the skid frame rearward far enough to drop
the front arm out of the slider axle; then remove
„NOTE: Many service procedures can be per- the skid frame.
formed without removing the skid frame. Closely
observe the note introducing each sub-section for
this important information. Wear Strips
1. To avoid having the adjuster bushings binding dur-
ing loosening of the track, remove the rear idler REMOVING
wheel caps and loosen the cap screws on the rear
axle. „NOTE: The skid frame does not have to be
removed for this procedure; however, if wear strip
binding or slide rail damage has occured, the skid
frame should be removed for this procedure (see
Removing Skid Frame in this sub-section).

1. Remove the machine screw and lock nut securing

the wear strip to the front of the slide rail.

FS248A
2. Loosen the jam nuts and two track-tension adjust-
ing bolts.

MS016B

9-104
„NOTE: If the skid frame has been removed due to
difficulty in removing the wear strip, it may be nec-
essary to use a pipe wrench, start from either end,
and hook the edge of the wear strip with the pipe
wrench jaw and twist the wear strip off the slide
rail. Move the pipe wrench 7.5 cm (3 in.) and again
twist the wear strip off the rail. Repeat this proce-
dure until the wear strip is free of the rail.

2. Align the wear strip with the openings (windows)

in the track; then using a suitable driving tool,
drive the wear strip rearward off the slide rail.
AG536D

INSTALLING

„NOTE: Apply a light coat of grease to the slide

rail surface to aid in installing a new wear strip. If
there are any sharp edges on the lower portion of
the rail, use a file to remove them.

1. Align the wear strip with the openings (windows)

in the track and from the back, start the wear strip
onto the rail; then using a block of wood and a
hammer, drive the wear strip forward into posi-
739-884A tion.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Clean the slide rail using parts-cleaning solvent

and compressed air.

! WARNING
Always wear an approved pair of safety glasses
when using compressed air.
739-884A
2. Inspect the slide rail for cracks. If any cracks are 2. Secure with a machine screw and lock nut. Tighten
found, replace the slide rail. to specifications.
3. Using a straightedge, inspect the slide rail for any
unusual bends. With the slide rail removed, place
End Caps
the straightedge along the bottom surface of the
slide rail. If the rail is found to be bent, it must be 9
replaced. „NOTE: The skid frame does not have to be
removed for this procedure.

REMOVING

1. Remove the lock nut, washers, and cap screw

securing the end cap.

9-105
 4. Inspect the cap screw for cracked, stretched, or
damaged threads. Use a new lock nut when assem-
bling.
INSTALLING

1. Position the end cap on the slide rail; then align the
hole in the end cap with the hole in the slide rail.
2. Secure with a cap screw, washers, and lock nut.
Tighten to specifications.

MS016A Shock Pads

2. Using a hammer, tap the end cap off the rail.
„NOTE: The skid frame does not have to be
CLEANING AND INSPECTING
removed for this procedure.
„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
REMOVING
necessary. „NOTE: The shock pads should be removed only if
being replaced.
1. Inspect the end cap area of the slide rail for cracks
and wear.
1. Using a 3/16-in. drill bit, drill out the rivets secur-
ing the shock pads to the slide rail. Account for the
retaining brackets.
2. Remove the shock pads.
INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Inspect the pads for damage or wear.

2. Inspect the rivet holes in the slide rail for damage
MS017A or elongation.
2. Inspect the end cap for any signs of cracking or
wear. INSTALLING

1. Place the pads and retaining brackets into position

on the slide rail.
2. Secure the pads with rivets.

Front Outer
Idler Wheels

„NOTE: The skid frame does not have to be

removed for this procedure.
MS290A
REMOVING
3. Clean both the slide rail area and the end cap.
Using compressed air, clean the areas of dirt and 1. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
gravel. front outer idler wheel and the idler wheel mount-
ing block.
! WARNING
Always wear an approved pair of safety glasses
when using compressed air.

9-106
 MS133A MS006A
D. Install the snap ring making sure the “sharp
side” is directed away from the bearing.

MS134A
2. Account for flat washers.
CLEANING AND INSPECTING MS007A

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively, INSTALLING

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary. 1. Secure the mounting block on the slide rail with a
cap screw and lock nut. Tighten to specifications.
1. Clean the bearing with a clean cloth.
„NOTE: For proper alignment, it is advisable to
2. Inspect each idler wheel for cracks or damage. install an idler wheel cap screw into the top mount-
ing block hole prior to tightening.
3. Rotate the idler wheel bearing (by hand) and
inspect for binding or roughness.
4. If a bearing must be replaced, use this procedure.

! CAUTION
Do not remove the bearing unless it is absolutely
necessary. The bearing will be damaged during 9
removal.

A. Remove the bearing snap ring.

B. Using a suitable press, press the bearing out the
inside of the wheel.
MS009A
C. Press the new bearing (on its outer race) into 2. Place the idler wheel to the mounting block; then
the idler wheel.
secure the idler wheel assembly with a cap screw,
flat washer, and a lock nut. Tighten to specifica-
tions.

9-107
 3. Remove the cap screws, washers, and lock nuts
securing the front inner idler wheel and the idler
wheel mounting block. Account for all mounting
hardware.

MS136

Inner Idler Wheels

ZJ264A
„NOTE: The skid frame does not have to be 4. Note the locations of the flat washer for assembly
removed for this procedure. purposes.

REMOVING

1. Using the Rear Suspension Spring Tool (p/n 0144-

311), remove the spring from the adjusting cam.

! WARNING
Care must be taken when removing the spring or
damage or injury could result.

MS138

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Clean the bearing with a clean cloth.

AG624DA 2. Inspect each idler wheel for cracks, damage, or
2. To access the inner idler wheel and mounting poor bonding of the outer rubber portion.
block, remove the spring slider block.
3. Rotate the idler wheel bearings (by hand) and
inspect for binding or roughness.
4. If a bearing must be replaced, use this procedure.

! CAUTION
Do not remove the bearing unless it is absolutely
necessary. The bearing will be damaged during
removal.

A. Remove the bearing snap ring.

B. Using a suitable press, press the bearing out the
inside of the wheel.
ZJ263

9-108
 C. Press the new bearing (on its outer race) into 3. Place the spring slider block into position and
the idler wheel. tighten to specifications; then install the spring
onto the adjusting cam.

MS006A
D. Install the snap ring making sure the “sharp ZJ263A
side” is directed away from the bearing.
Rear Upper Idler
Wheels/Rear Springs

„NOTE: The skid frame must be removed for this

procedure (see Removing Skid Frame in this sub-
section).

REMOVING

1. Using the Rear Suspension Spring Tool (p/n 0144-

311), remove the spring from the adjusting cam.
MS007A
! WARNING
INSTALLING Care must be taken when removing the spring or
damage or injury could result.
1. Secure the mounting block on the slide rail with a
cap screw and lock nut. Tighten to specifications.
„NOTE: For proper alignment, it is advisable to
install an idler wheel cap screw into the top mount-
ing block hole prior to tightening.

9
AG624DA
2. Mark the offset pivot idler and the idler arm for
assembly purposes.

ZJ265A
2. Place the idler wheel into position against the
mounting block making sure there is a flat washer
on the cap screw. Tighten to specifications.

9-109
 MS142 ZJ263A

3. Remove the cap screws securing the offset pivot

idler arm assembly to the idler arm; then remove
the offset pivot idler arm assembly. Account for a
flanged axle, flared bushing, idler spacer collar,
and lock nuts.

MS014
6. Remove the spring and sleeve from the idler arm.

MS064
4. Remove the idler wheel.
„NOTE: Use Idler Wheel Puller Kit (p/n 0644-122)
to remove the wheel.

MS145

„NOTE: Use the same procedure for the other

side.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
MS011 necessary.
5. Remove the cap screw, flat washer, and lock nut
securing the spring slide to the slide rail. Account 1. Clean the bearing with a clean cloth.
for the spring slide and all mounting hardware.
2. Inspect each idler wheel for cracks, damage, or
poor bonding of the outer rubber portion.
3. Rotate the idler wheel bearings (by hand) and
inspect for binding or roughness.

9-110
4. If a bearing must be replaced, use this procedure.

! CAUTION
Do not remove the bearing unless it is absolutely
necessary. The bearing will be damaged during
removal.

A. Remove the bearing snap ring.

B. Using a suitable press, press the bearing out the
inside of the wheel.
C. Press the new bearing (on its outer race) into
the idler wheel. MS145
2. Place the spring slide and slide block (with spring
in slide block) into position on the slide rail.
Secure with a cap screw and washer. Tighten to
specifications.

MS006A
D. Install the snap ring making sure the “sharp
side” is directed away from the bearing.
MS014

MS007A
5. Inspect the spring, spring slide, sleeve, washers,
9
ZJ263A
slide block insert, and shaft area for wear. 3. Install the rear upper idler wheel on the idler arm.
6. Inspect the adjusting cams and arms for cracks.
INSTALLING

1. Slide the sleeve and spring onto the idler arm.

AG545D

9-111
 „NOTE: When tightening the pivot idler arm lock
! CAUTION nuts, tighten the lower lock nut first or binding may
When driving the idler wheel onto the idler arm, use occur.
a tool to contact the inside race of the bearing or
damage to the wheel or bearing may occur.

MS019B

MS072A
4. Install the idler spacer collar onto the idler arm. Rear Axle and
Idler Wheels

„NOTE: The skid frame must be removed for this

procedure (see Removing Skid Frame in this sub-
section).

DISASSEMBLING

1. Remove the cap screw and large flat washer secur-

ing the outer rear idler wheel. Remove the outer
idler wheel from the shaft.

MS064
5. Place the flared bushing with a thin flat washer
through the notched side of the offset pivot idler
arm assembly.
„NOTE: If the flared bushing in the offset pivot
idler arm is loose, it must be cleaned and green
Loctite #609 must be applied to it prior to installa-
tion.

6. Align the marks on the idler arm to the centerline

of the offset pivot idler arm assembly. Secure the
offset pivot idler arm to the idler arm with cap FC194
screws and lock nuts. Tighten to specifications.
2. Loosen the track adjusting bolts. Slide the outer
adjuster bushings off the axle.

MS146A

9-112
 C. Press the new bearing (on its outer race) into
the idler wheel.

ZJ266
3. Carefully slide the shaft out from the slide rails
and inner idler wheels. Account for the rear idler
wheel spacer and adjuster bushings. MS006A
D. Install the snap ring making sure the “sharp
side” is directed away from the bearing.

0742-160

CLEANING AND INSPECTING MS007A

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively, ASSEMBLING

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Clean the bearings with a clean cloth.

2. Inspect all idler wheel inserts (inner and outer) for
any cracks.
3. Inspect the idler wheels for cracks, damage, or
poor bonding of the outer rubber portion.
4. Inspect the shaft for wear and damaged threads.
5. Inspect all idler wheel bearings. Turn each bearing
9
(by hand) and if any roughness or binding is noted,
replace the bearing. 742-160A
1. In order from the right-hand side, slide the axle
6. If a bearing must be replaced, use this procedure. through the slide rail axle slot; then place a bush-
ing (A), inner idler wheel (B), rear idler wheel
! CAUTION spacer (C), inner idler wheel (D), and bushing (E)
on the axle. Slide the axle through the opposite
Do not remove the bearing unless it is absolutely slide rail axle slot.
necessary. The bearing will be damaged during
removal. 2. Place the plastic adjuster bushings on the axle (on
the outside of each axle slot); then install the outer
A. Remove the bearing snap ring. idler wheels on the axle and secure with two cap
screws (coated with blue Loctite #243) and large
B. Using a suitable press, press the bearing out the flat washers. Tighten cap screws only until snug.
inside of the wheel.

9-113
 ZJ266 MS011
2. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
upper shock eyelet to the idler arm. Account for a
spacer, cap screw, and lock nut.

FC194

„NOTE: It is advisable to tighten the rear idler

wheel axle only until snug until the skid frame has
been installed and track tension has been MS024A
adjusted; then the axle assembly must be tight-
„NOTE: Mark the hole that the upper shock links
ened to specifications.
are mounted in for assembly purposes.
3. Install the skid frame (see Installing Skid Frame in
this sub-section).
4. Adjust track alignment (see Track Alignment in
this sub-section).
5. Adjust track tension deflection (see Track Tension
in this sub-section).

Rear Arm/Idler Arm

„NOTE: The skid frame must be removed for this

procedure (see Removing Skid Frame in this sub- MS025
section). 3. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
upper shock links to the idler arm. Account for a
DISASSEMBLING cap screw, lock nut, spacer, and axle links.

1. Remove the rear upper idler wheels and springs

(see Rear Upper Idler Wheels/Rear Springs in this
sub-section).

9-114
 5. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
rear arm to the idler arm. Account for the alumi-
num axle and bushing assemblies.

MS026

MS029A

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Clean the bearings with a clean cloth.

MS031
2. Inspect each idler wheel for cracks or damage.
4. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the 3. Inspect the bushings (located in the arm pivot
rear arm to the slide rail. Account for the serrated area) for wear or damage.
axles and axle tube.
4. Inspect all welds and the tubing of the rear arm/
idler arm for cracks or unusual bends.
5. Inspect the two adjusting cams for damage.
6. Rotate the idler wheel bearings (by hand) and
check for binding or roughness.
7. If a bearing must be replaced, use this procedure.

! CAUTION
Do not remove the bearing unless it is absolutely
necessary. The bearing will be damaged during
removal.
ZJ268A

9
A. Remove the bearing snap ring.
„NOTE: To remove the rear arm, it may be neces-
sary to loosen the rear arm limiter. B. Using a suitable press, press the bearing out the
inside of the wheel.
C. Press the new bearing (on its outer race) into
the idler wheel.

ZJ269A

9-115
 MS006A MS157
D. Install the snap ring making sure the “sharp 3. With the rear arm secured to the slide rails, place a
side” is directed away from the bearing. support beneath the rear arm; then tighten the two
cap screws (from step 1) to specifications.

MS007A
MS033
ASSEMBLING „NOTE: If the rear arm limiter was loosened (after
step 4 of disassembling), treat the threads of the
1. Install the rear arm onto the idler arm with an alu-
minum axle, bushing assemblies, and two cap cap screw with blue Loctite #243 and tighten to
screws (coated with blue Loctite #243). Tighten specifications.
only until snug.

MS158
MS029A 4. Position the shock links in the appropriate holes of
2. Place the rear arm assembly into position between the idler arm brackets (see Chassis and Skid Frame
the slide rails. Secure with a cap screw and lock Mounting Locations in this section). Place a
nut. Tighten to specifications. spacer between the center of the brackets; then
place a flat washer on the cap screw. Insert the
axle links into the upper shock link eyelets; then
insert the cap screw through the eyelets. Secure
with a cap screw and lock nut. Tighten securely.

9-116
 MS031 0742-145

„NOTE: It is advisable to install the rear arm

springs onto the adjuster blocks after the skid
frame has been installed.

6. Grease the idler arm and rear arm grease fittings

with a low-temperature grease.
7. Install the rear upper idler wheels, rear springs,
and offset pivot idler (see Rear Upper Idler
Wheels/Rear Springs in this sub-section).

Front Arm/Front Arm

Brackets/Front Shock
MS026
5. Place the upper shock eyelet with bushings
between the idler arm brackets making sure the Absorber
spacer is properly positioned between the brack-
ets. Secure with a cap screw and lock nut. Tighten
securely. „NOTE: The skid frame must be removed for this
procedure (see Removing Skid Frame in this sub-
section), and the rear springs must be removed
from the adjusting cams.

REMOVING

1. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the

limiter straps to the front arm. Account for flat
washers.

MS027 9
„NOTE: Do not over-tighten the shock absorber
cap screw as the shock eyelet must be free to
pivot.

! CAUTION
Make certain that the shock pivot assembly is prop-
erly positioned prior to securing the shock absorber
ZJ270A
to the idler arm.
2. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
upper front shock absorber eyelet to the front arm.
Pull the shock eyelet free of the bracket. Account
for a serrated axle.

9-117
 ZJ271A ZJ274
3. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the „NOTE: Remove the front outer idler wheel from
front arm to the front arm mounting bracket. the side of the slide rail in which the front arm
shock axle cap screw was installed.

7. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the

idler wheel mounting block to the slide rail.
8. Remove the cap screws, washer, and lock nut from
the front shock axle; then from one side, tap the
assembly rearward far enough for the axle assem-
bly to clear the slide rails. Account for an axle, two
spacers, and two shim washers.
„NOTE: It is advisable to loosen the front rail sup-
port cap screws enough to gain clearance to
remove the front shock axle.
ZJ272
4. Remove the lock nut and cap screw securing the
rear shock pivot to the front arm.

ZJ275A

ZJ273
5. Remove the front arm and account for the two
front arm bushings.
6. Remove the cap screw securing the front outer
idler wheel to the idler wheel mounting block.
Account for lock nut, cap screw, and flat washer.

MS167
9. Move the rear arm assembly rearward far enough
to gain access to the front arm mounting bracket
lock nuts; then remove the cap screws and lock
nuts securing the brackets to the slide rails.

9-118
 MS106A MS167
3. Place the front arm shock axle assembly into posi-
INSPECTING tion on the skid frame making sure the spacers and
washers are properly positioned. Secure with the
„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively, cap screw, washer, and a new lock nut. Tighten to
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is specifications.
necessary.
„NOTE: If the front rail support cap screws were
1. Inspect all front arm weldments for cracks or loosened (after step 8), treat the threads with blue
unusual bends; then inspect the front arm mount- Loctite #243 and tighten to specifications.
ing brackets for cracks and for elongated holes.
2. Closely inspect all tubing for cracks or unusual
bends.
3. Inspect the bearings, bushings, and front arm spac-
ers for wear or damage.
4. Inspect the shock absorber for damage and for any
signs of oil leakage especially at the point where
the shock shaft enters the shock body.
5. Inspect the shock absorber eyelet welds (at each
end) for any cracks, signs of separation, or for
unthreading.
ZJ275A
INSTALLING 4. Position the front arm with bushings into the
mounting brackets. Secure with cap screws and
1. Install the front arm mounting brackets to the slide lock nuts. Tighten to specifications.
rails. Secure with cap screws and lock nuts tight-
ened to specifications. „NOTE: Assure that the rear shock pivot is posi-
tioned beneath the front arm prior to securing the
front arm to the mounting brackets.

MS106A
2. Install the axle into the lower shock eyelet bushing
assembly; then install the two spacers and the two ZJ272
shim washers. 5. Secure the rear shock pivot to the front arm with
cap screw and lock nut. Tighten to specifications.

9-119
 ZJ273 MS009A
6. Secure the upper shock eyelet and serrated axle in 8. Secure the idler wheel assembly with a cap screw
the mounting hole of the front arm. Secure with a and a lock nut. Tighten cap screw to specifications.
cap screw and lock nut. Tighten securely.

MS010
ZJ271A 9. Secure the limiter straps to the front arm with cap
„NOTE: Do not over-tighten the shock absorber screws, washers, and lock nuts. Tighten to specifi-
cap screw as the shock eyelet must be free to
cations.
pivot.

7. Secure the mounting block on the slide rail with a

cap screw and lock nut. Tighten to specifications.

ZJ270

Rear Shock Absorber

MS009 and Shock Links
„NOTE: For proper alignment, it is advisable to
install an idler wheel cap screw into the top mount- „NOTE: Before removing the skid frame by using
ing block hole prior to tightening. the Rear Suspension Spring Tool (p/n 0144-311),
remove the spring from the adjusting cam.

! CAUTION
Care must be taken when removing the spring from
the adjusting cam or damage or injury could result.

9-120
„NOTE: The skid frame must be removed for this
procedure (see Removing Skid Frame in this sub-
section).

DISASSEMBLING

1. Using the Rear Suspension Spring Tool (p/n 0144-

311), remove the spring from the adjusting cam.

MS024A
4. Mark the hole that the upper shock links are
mounted in for assembly purposes; then remove
the cap screw and lock nut securing the shock
links to the upper arm bracket. Account for all
mounting hardware.

AG624DA

! WARNING
Care must be taken when removing the spring from
the adjusting cam or damage or injury could result.

2. Remove the lock nut and the cap screw securing

the lower shock eyelet and shock links to the rear
shock pivot bracket. Account for shock sleeves,
axle links, and a lock nut.

MS025

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Clean shock pivot and idler wheel axle in parts-

cleaning solvent. Dry with compressed air.

! WARNING
ZJ277A
Always wear an approved pair of safety glasses
„NOTE: Lay components out in order as they are
removed.
when using compressed air.
9
2. Clean the idler wheel bearings with a clean cloth.
3. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the 3. Closely inspect the idler wheel axle for wear,
shock absorber at the upper eyelet and remove the bends, or damaged threads at either end.
shock absorber. Account for a sleeve and bush-
ings. 4. Inspect the idler wheels for signs of cracking,
wear, or outer rubber separation from plastic
wheel.
5. Rotate the idler wheel bearings (by hand) and
inspect for any signs of binding or roughness.

9-121
 6. If a bearing must be replaced, use this procedure. ASSEMBLING

! CAUTION 1. Secure the shock eyelet to the idler arm with bush-
ings, sleeve, lock nut, and a cap screw. Tighten
Do not remove the bearing unless it is absolutely securely.
necessary. The bearing will be damaged during
removal.

A. Remove the bearing snap ring.

B. Using a suitable press, press the bearing out the
inside of the wheel.
C. Press the new bearing (on its outer race) into
the idler wheel.

MS027
2. Secure the rear shock links and the lower shock
absorber eyelet to the shock pivot bracket by plac-
ing the bushings and shock sleeve into the shock
eyelet; then install the axle links into the rear
shock links. Secure the assembly by installing a
cap screw through the shock link assembly, shock
pivot bracket and shock eyelet assembly, and
shock link assembly. Secure the assembly with a
MS006A lock nut. Tighten securely.
D. Install the snap ring making sure the “sharp „NOTE: Do not over-tighten the shock absorber
side” is directed away from the bearing. cap screw as the shock eyelet must be free to
pivot.

MS007A
7. Inspect the shock absorber for any signs of oil
ZJ278A
leakage especially at the point where the shock
shaft enters the shock body. 3. Position the shock links in the appropriate holes of
the idler arm brackets (see Skid Frame Mounting
8. Inspect the rubber shock bushings located in the Style Schematic in this section). Place a spacer (A)
shock absorber eyelets for cracks or deterioration. between the center of the brackets. Insert the axle
links (B) into the upper shock link eyelets; then
9. Inspect the shock absorber eyelet welds (at each insert the cap screw with washer through the eye-
end) for any cracks or signs of separation. lets. Secure with a cap screw, washer, and lock nut.
Tighten securely.
10. Inspect the welds securing the eyelets of the shock
links for cracks or signs of separation. Either weld
the eyelet or replace the shock link.
11. Inspect the axle surfaces for any signs of corro-
sion. If corrosion is found, lightly buff the surface
of the axle with #400 wet-or-dry sandpaper; then
apply a light coat of grease.

9-122
 MS031A 0742-145
5. Install the skid frame (see Installing Skid Frame in
this sub-section).
„NOTE: It is advisable to install the rear arm
springs onto the adjuster blocks after the skid
frame has been installed.

Slide Rails

„NOTE: The skid frame must be removed for this

procedure (see Removing Skid Frame in this sub-
MS048A section).
4. Install the upper shock absorber eyelet to the
appropriate hole in the idler arm as noted in disas- REMOVING
sembling.
„NOTE: When it is necessary to replace one or
„NOTE: Do not over-tighten the shock absorber both slide rails, it is recommended that one slide
cap screw as the shock eyelet must be free to rail be removed at a time. The remaining slide rail
pivot. will then hold the crossbraces, axles, and brackets
in their correct assembly order. Always mark the
mounting hole locations during disassembly to
speed up the assembly process and to prevent any
damage. This method is much quicker than to
completely disassemble the entire skid frame. To
replace either rail, use the following procedure.

1. Remove the end cap from the slide rail. Account

for a cap screw, lock nut, and two flat washers.

9
MS024A

! CAUTION
Make certain that the shock pivot assembly is prop-
erly positioned prior to securing the shock absorber
to the idler arm.

MS016A
2. Remove the machine screw and lock nut securing
the wear strip to the front of the slide rail; then
using a suitable driving tool, drive the wear strip
rearward off the slide rail.
9-123
 MS016B ZJ279

„NOTE: If binding of the wear strip occurs, it may

be necessary to use a pipe wrench, start from
either end, and hook the edge of the wear strip
with the pipe wrench jaw and twist the wear strip
off the slide rail. Move the pipe wrench 7.5 cm (3
in.) and again twist the wear strip off the rail.
Repeat this procedure until the wear strip is free of
the rail.

3. Remove the front arm limiter straps from the front

arm of the skid frame.

ZJ280
6. Remove the lock nut, cap screw, and flat washer
securing the front shock axle assembly to the slide
rail. Discard the lock nut.

ZJ270
4. Remove the cap screws securing the two front rail
supports to the slide rail.

ZJ281

„NOTE: If it is necessary to remove the cap

screws from the center components for replacing
the slide rail, install the cap screw from the oppo-
site side into the assembly to secure components
and aid in replacing the slide rail.

7. Remove the lock nut, cap screw, and flat washer

securing the spring slide to the rail. Account for a
spacer and the slide block.
MS049A
5. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the
front outer idler wheel and the idler wheel mount-
ing block.

9-124
 ZJ282 ZJ269B

„NOTE: If not already done, remove the short

spring leg from the adjusting cam. Also, it is rec-
ommended that the top cap screw be removed
from the front shock absorber to aid in slide rail
installing.

8. Note the mounting location for installing pur-

poses; then remove the cap screw and lock nut
securing the inner idler wheels and mounting
block.

ZJ268B
11. Remove the cap screw securing the rear arm cou-
pler block to the slide rail. Account for the block,
bushing, cap screw, and lock nut.
12. Remove the idler wheel cap; then remove the cap
screw and flat washer securing the rear idler
wheel. Remove the idler wheel; then remove the
adjuster bushing.

ZJ283
9. Note the mounting position of the front arm
mounting bracket; then remove the cap screws
securing the front arm mounting bracket. Account
for lock nuts.

9
FC194

MS054A
10. Remove the cap screws, lock washers, and lock
nuts from the rear arm limiter (A) and rear arm
(B).

9-125
 INSPECTING

„NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is
necessary.

1. Inspect the slide rail for cracks (A), elongated

holes (B), or unusual bends.

MS057

„NOTE: The adjusting bolt may have to be loos-

ened to remove the adjuster bushing.

„NOTE: At this point, the slide rail should be free

of the skid frame components and can be
removed.

13. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the MS220A
track adjuster bracket. 2. Inspect the wear strip for wear. The wear strip
must be 10.7 mm (0.42 in.) thick or thicker. If the
wear strip measurement is less than specified,
replacement of both wear strips is necessary.

MS057A

„NOTE: The shock pads should be removed only if

being replaced.
AG530D

14. Using a drill and a 3/16-in. drill bit, drill out the
rivets and remove the shock pads. Note the shock
pad locations for installation. Account for the
retaining brackets.

0727-726
3. Inspect the front arm slider bumpers for cracks or
wear.

AG528D

9-126
 ZJ284A MS056C

„NOTE: Care must be taken that the adjuster

INSTALLING
bushing slot is aligned properly with the adjuster
1. Install the shock pads and retaining brackets and bolt.
secure with rivets.

MS058A
AG531D
„NOTE: It is advisable to tighten the rear idler
2. Secure the track adjuster bracket with the cap wheel axle only until snug until the skid frame has
screws and lock nuts. Tighten only until snug. been installed and track tension has been
adjusted; then the axle assembly must be tight-
ened to specifications.

4. Install the rear arm limiter cap screw (A); then

install the rear arm cap screw (B) and lock nut.
Tighten only until snug.

9
MS057A
3. Place the rail into position; then install the adjuster
bushing and rear idler wheel. Install a cap screw
and flat washer. Tighten only until snug.

ZJ269B

9-127
 ZJ268B MS059A
5. Install coupler block w/bushing. Secure with cap 8. Place the spring into the slide block; then place the
screw and lock nut. Tighten to specifications. spring slide and slide block assembly into position
on the slide rail. Secure with a cap screw and
6. Secure the front arm mounting bracket with the washer. Tighten to specifications.
cap screws and lock nuts. Tighten to specifica-
tions.

MS060
9. Install the cap screw and lock nut (if removed)
ZJ285
securing the front shock axle assembly to the slide
„NOTE: At this point if the front arm shock rails. Tighten to specifications.
absorber was removed from the front arm, install it
and tighten securely.

7. Install the inner idler wheel mounting block and

secure with cap screw and lock nut. Tighten to
specifications.

ZJ287

„NOTE: At this point, tighten the cap screws A and

B (from step 4) to specifications.

ZJ286

„NOTE: To obtain proper alignment for the idler

wheel cap screw, place the cap screw in the top
hole through the rail and mounting block prior to
tightening.

9-128
 ZJ269B MS997A
11. Secure the outer and inner idler wheels to the
mounting blocks with existing hardware. Tighten
to specifications.
12. Secure the rail supports with cap screws (coated
with blue Loctite #243). Tighten to specifications.

ZJ268B
10. Secure the outer idler wheel mounting block with
the cap screw and lock nut. Tighten to specifica-
tions.

MS061
13. Secure the end cap onto the slide rail using a cap
screw, flat washers, and a lock nut. Tighten to
specifications.

ZJ288

„NOTE: To obtain proper alignment for the idler

wheel cap screw, place the cap screw in the top
9
hole through the rail and mounting block prior to
tightening.
MS206A

„NOTE: Apply a light coat of grease to the slide

rail surface to aid in installing a new wear strip. If
there are any sharp edges on the lower portion of
the rail, use a file to remove them.

9-129
 16. Adjust track tension deflection (see Track Tension
in this sub-section) and track alignment (see Track
Alignment in this sub-section).

! CAUTION
After proper track tension and alignment have been
attained, make certain that the rear axle assembly is
tightened to specifications or component damage
will occur.

Installing Skid Frame

MS288
14. From the back, start the wear strip onto the rail;
then using a soft hammer, drive the wear strip for- 1. Place a piece of cardboard on the floor to protect
ward into position. Secure with a machine screw against scratching and tip the snowmobile onto
and lock nut. Tighten to specifications. one side.
2. Pull the track away from the tunnel and spread
open; then place the skid frame into the track.
3. Position the front of the skid frame into the tunnel
and engage the front arm with the slider axle in the
tunnel.

MS207

0742-187

! CAUTION
When installing the skid frame, make sure the rear
arm shock mounting location on the pivot/axle is
positioned correctly above the axle or component
MS016B
damage will occur.
15. Install the skid frame (see Installing Skid Frame in
this sub-section).
„NOTE: It is advisable to install the rear arm
springs onto the adjuster blocks after the skid
frame has been installed.

0742-145

9-130
„NOTE: To aid in centering the front arm with the
hole in the tunnel, position the skid frame and
track at a 45° angle to the bottom of the tunnel.

4. Push the rear of the skid frame and the track into
the tunnel.
5. Align the pivot idler arm assembly with the appro-
priate hole in the tunnel. Secure the pivot idler arm
assembly with a cap screw, lock washer, and flat
washer. AT THIS TIME, TIGHTEN ONLY
UNTIL SNUG.
6. Tip the snowmobile onto the other side; then align
the pivot idler arm assembly with the appropriate 729-429A
hole in the tunnel. Secure the pivot idler arm „NOTE: If the track is new, it will stretch slightly
assembly with a cap screw, lock washer, and flat and take a “set” within the first 300 to 500 miles of
washer. AT THIS TIME, TIGHTEN ONLY
UNTIL SNUG. operation.

„NOTE: Do not install the short legs of the rear ADJUSTING DEFLECTION
springs onto the adjusting cams at this time.
1. Place the snowmobile up on a shielded safety
7. At this time, place the snowmobile to the upright stand. Check to make sure the track is 2-3 in. off
position; then tighten both pivot arm mounting cap the floor.
screws to specifications.
2. If the measurement is not as specified, loosen the
8. Using the Rear Suspension Spring Tool (p/n 0144- jam nuts of the adjusting bolts.
311), install the short legs of the rear springs onto
the adjusting cams making sure the cams are in the
same adjustment positions.
9. Tighten the two track tension adjusting bolt evenly
until track deflection is within specifications; then
lock the jam nuts to secure the adjustment.
10. Check track tension deflection and alignment;
adjust if necessary (see Track Tension and Track
Alignment in this sub-section).

Track Tension
0727-456
3. If the measurement obtained in step 2 is more than
! WARNING specified, tighten the adjusting bolts. If the mea-
surement obtained is less than specified, loosen
Deactivate all switches. the adjusting bolts. When the measurement is
within specification range, lock the adjustment by
CHECKING DEFLECTION

1. Tip the snowmobile on its side.

bottoming the jam nuts against the axle housings.
„NOTE: If the track tension must be loosened, it
9
may be necessary to loosen the rear axle assem-
2. Hook a spring scale around a track clip at mid- bly slightly.
span; then pull the track down with the scale to 9
kg (20 lb) and measure the distance between the „NOTE: Vigorously push the underside of the
bottom of the wear strip and the inside surface of track up and down. Track must not hit the top of
the track clip. Track deflection must be within
the tunnel or slap the skid frame.
specifications.

Setup After Break-In

4. After correct track tension is obtained, check track
Rear Suspension Style
Tension Tension alignment (see Track Alignment in this sub-sec-
tion).
FasTrack w/Torque Sensing 44-51 mm 51-57 mm
Link (128 in. Track) @ 20 lb (1 3/4-2 in.) (2-2 1/4 in.)

9-131
„NOTE: Track tension and track alignment are
interrelated; always check both even if only one
adjustment seems necessary. Always establish
correct track tension before checking and/or
adjusting alignment.

! CAUTION
After proper track tension and alignment have been
attained, make certain that the rear axle assembly is
tightened to specifications or component damage
will occur.

725-070A
4. On the side of the track which has the inner drive
Track Alignment lugs closer to the rear idler wheel, loosen the
adjusting bolt jam nut; then rotate the adjusting
„NOTE: Proper track alignment is when the rear
bolt clockwise 1-1 1/2 turns.
idler wheels are equidistant from the inner drive „NOTE: If the track tension must be loosened, it
lugs on the inside surface of the track. may be necessary to loosen the rear axle assem-
bly slightly.
CHECKING/ADJUSTING
5. Continue to check the track alignment and make
1. Using a shielded safety stand, raise the rear of the the necessary adjustments until proper alignment
snowmobile off the floor making sure the track is is obtained.
free to rotate.
6. After proper track alignment is obtained, lock the
! WARNING jam nut against the axle housing.
The tips of the skis must be positioned against a „NOTE: Make sure correct track tension is main-
wall or similar object for safety. Keep hands, feet, tained after adjusting track alignment.
and clothing away from moving components.

2. Start the engine and accelerate slightly. Use only ! CAUTION

enough throttle to rotate the track several revolu- After proper track tension and alignment have been
tions. SHUT THE ENGINE OFF. attained, make certain that the rear axle assembly is
tightened to specifications or component damage
„NOTE: Allow the track to coast to a stop. Do not will occur.
apply the brake because it could produce inaccu-
rate alignment conditions. „NOTE: Field test the track under actual condi-
tions and, after the field test, check track align-
3. When the track stops rotating, check the relation-
ment and track tension; adjust as necessary.
ship of the rear idler wheels and the inner track
drive lugs. If the distance from the idler wheels to
the inner drive lugs is the same on both sides, no
adjustment is necessary.

9-132
 Drive Sprocket Locations
The following illustrations will provide all necessary When pressing new sprockets on the driveshaft,
information to relocate sprockets on the driveshaft. remember to align the sprocket alignment marks or the
sprockets won’t be timed correctly. See following
When information is required to assemble the drive- illustrations.
shaft, refer to the parts manual for model being worked
on; then refer to the following illustrations using the
part number listed in the parts manual as a reference.

0728-351

737-870A

0727-829

9-133
 727-829B

740-043A

740-044A

9-134
 0728-146
Bearcat 570
Panther 370/570
Z 370/LX
Z 570/LX

0739-222
0728-165
Crossfire

0742-367
0728-147
F-Series

0742-042

9-135
 0728-164
M-Series

0742-366

9-136
 2007 Idler Wheel Selection Chart
P/N Diameter I.D. Insert Part Number Width Color Spoke
1604-685 6.38 in. 0.625 in. 1604-772 1604-773 1.19 in. Not spoked
1604-684 5.63 in. 0.625 in. 1604-772 1604-773 1.14 in. Not spoked
2604-752 6.380 in. 0.787 in. 1.49 in. Pearl Cat Green
3604-018 6.380 in. 0.625 in. 1.340 in. Spoked - Orange
3604-039 5.630 in. 0.787 in. 0623-946 1.010 in. Not spoked - Black
3604-043 5.630 in. 0.787 in. 1.340 in. Spoked - Platinum
3604-044 5.630 in. 0.787 in. 1.340 in. Spoked - Fire Red
3604-047 5.630 in. 0.787 in. 1.340 in. Spoked - Cat Green
3604-048 5.630 in. 0.787 in. 1.340 in. Spoked - Orange
3604-049 6.380 in. 0.787 in. 1.010 in. Not spoked - Black
3604-052 6.380 in. 0.787 in. 1.490 in. Spoked - Fire Red
3604-054 6.380 in. 0.787 in. 1.490 in. Spoked - Orange
3604-055 6.380 in. 0.787 in. 1.490 in. Spoked - Silver
3604-060 7.120 in. 0.787 in. 1.010 in. Not spoked - Black
3604-062 7.120 in. 0.787 in. 1.490 in. Spoked - Platinum
3604-065 7.120 in. 0.780 in. 1.490 in. Spoked - Orange
3604-066 7.120 in. 0.780 in. 1.490 in. Spoked - Pearl Cat Green
3604-069 * 8.000 in. 0.780 in. 1.490 in. Spoked - Yellow
3604-075 * 8.000 in. 0.780 in. 1.490 in. Spoked - Pearl Cat Green
3604-191 8.000 in. 0.780 in. N/A Spoked - Orange

* 8.00 in. idler wheel cannot be used with standard slide rails.

2007 Non-Rebuildable Shock Absorber

Specifications Chart
Below is a list of shock absorbers used on the front and rear suspensions of many Arctic Cat snowmobiles.
Specifications given for each shock absorber include collapsed and extended length and stroke.
When using the shock absorber guide, always select a shock absorber with the same length, both collapsed and
extended.

P/N Collapsed Length Extended Length Stroke

1603-253 10.840” 16.300” 5.46”
1604-369 8.420” 12.490” 4.07”
1604-455
1604-995
9.560”
8.420”
15.010”
12.490”
5.45”
4.07”
9
1704-523 8.090” 11.780” 3.68”
1704-525 9.870” 14.510” 4.61”
2603-617 12.550” 18.750” 6.20”
2604-200 9.910” 16.540” 5.78”
2604-614 10.760” 16.540” 5.78”
2703-092 11.550” 17.500” 5.950”
3604-153 7.830” 11.280” 3.450”
3604-154 9.890” 14.500” 4.610”

9-137
 2007 Front Suspension Ski
Springs Specifications Chart
PART NUMBER WIRE DIAMETER FREE LENGTH INCHES RATE LB/INCH # OF COILS TAB
0703-8724 .331 10.50 180 6.1 YES

0703-8944 .331 9.50 110 8*/10** NO

1703-7425 .331 13.00 120 12.5*/14.5** NO

1703-7873 .331 12.00 120 12.75 YES

1703-8581 .312 9.36 90 6.5*/8.5** NO

1703-8706 .312 9.50 110 6.5*/8.5** YES

1703-8901 .331 12.00 120 12.75 YES

1703-9234 .331 12.50 95 12*/14** YES

2703-0011 .331 12.50 95 12*/14** YES

2703-0901 .331 9.50 110 8*/10** NO

2703-0162 .331 13.00 120 14 NO

2703-0181 .331 13.00 120 14 NO

2703-1144 .312 10.11 90 7.5*/9.5** NO

2703-1225 .343 13.50 120 10*/12** NO

2703-1282 .331 12.50 95 12*/14** YES

2703-1832 .331 10.50 180 6.1 YES

2703-1841 .331 10.50 180 6.1 YES

1 3 Pearl 5 * Active
Orange Color Green Color Fire Red Color Coils
2 Green Color 4 Platinum Color 6 Blue Color ** Total Coils

2007 Front Suspension 2007 Rear Suspension

Sway Bar Specifications Specifications Charts
Chart
(Front Arm Springs)
PART NUMBER DESCRIPTION
1703-618 7/16” diameter FREE LENGTH
PART NUMBER RATE LB/INCH
2603-686 9/16” diameter INCHES
2703-094 7/16” diameter 0603-860* 9.5 110
1603-018* 9.5 90
1704-236 7.75 110
1704-461 7.75 135
1704-491 8.0 190
2604-565 8.0 110
* Tab on Bottom

9-138
 (Rear Arm Springs)
Following is a list of rear suspension springs and spec-
ifications. This chart was compiled to assist techni-
cians in fine-tuning the Arctic Cat rear suspension
when the original springs are not satisfactory and a
softer or firmer ride is desired.
A longer spring in areas (D) and (E) can be selected if
cut off to match the original spring. The replacement
spring must match the original spring in areas (D) and
(E).

0730-218

Wire Diameter Angle Number of Coil Width Length Length

P/N
(A) (B) Coils (C) (D) (E)
0704-888/889* .437 75° 8.75 4.60 18.50 5.50
1704-044/045 .405 75° 8.75 3.85 18.50 5.50
1704-260/261** .405 70° 7.75 3.85 18.50 5.50
1704-504/505** .405 85° 6.75 3.65 18.50 5.50
2604-566/567*** .490 85° 5.75 4.00 18.75 5.50
*Short leg of spring is bent inward **Square wire ***Titanium
„NOTE: The wire diameter and length of the spring have a large influence over the valving of the shocks.

Shock & Spring Chart - 2007 Models

Front Suspension Rear Suspension
Sway
Models Ski Shock Ski Shock Front Arm Front Arm Rear Arm Rear Arm Spring Bar
(Right/Left) Spring Shock Shock Spring Shock (Right/Left)
Bearcat 570 1603-253 1703-870 1604-369 0603-860 2604-200 1704-044/045 N/A
Crossfire 600/800/1000 2703-008 2703-016 (G) 1704-463 1704-461 1704-117 1704-044/045 2703-094
(STD) 2703-018 (O)
1703-742 (R)
Crossfire 800/1000 Sno Pro 2703-138 N/A 1704-482 1704-491 1704-484 1704-044/045 2703-094
Panther 370 1603-253 0703-894 1604-369 0603-860 2604-614 1704-044/045 N/A
Panther 570 1603-253 2703-114 3604-369 0603-860 2604-614 1704-044/045 1703-618
Crossfire 500 2603-617 2703-122 3604-153 1704-461 3604-154 1704-044/045 2703-094
M8/M1000 Sno Pro 2703-137 N/A 1704-351 2604-565 1704-568 2604-586/567 N/A
M6/M8/M1000 (STD) 1703-783 1703-890 (O) 1704-351 1704-461 1704-557 1704-260/261 N/A

Z 370/370 LX 1603-253
1703-787 (G)
2703-090 1604-995 1603-018
1704-558 (162)
1604-455 0704-888/889 N/A 9
Z 570/570 LX 1603-253 1703-858 1604-995 1603-018 1604-455 0704-888/889 1703-618
F5 2703-092 2703-183 (G) 1704-523 1704-236 1704-525 1704-504/505 2603-686
0703-872 (B)
2703-184 (O)
F6/F8/F1000 (STD) 1703-764 2703-128 (G) 1704-571 1704-461 1704-569 1704-504/505 2603-686
1703-923 (B)
2703-001 (O)
F8/F1000 Sno Pro 2703-116 N/A 1704-527 1704-491 1704-528 1704-504/505 2603-686

9-139
 2007 Track Specifications Chart
Below is a listing of drive tracks for Arctic Cat snowmobiles. This chart lists each track with its specifications such
as length, width, rail center, and lug height. From the information provided in this chart, note what other tracks can
be substituted as a replacement track if a recommended track isn’t available. Pay close attention to all critical spec-
ifications when choosing an alternative track.

P/N Length Width Rail Center Lug Height

0602-868 121” 15” 8.84” .725”
0602-935 156” 16” 8.84” 1.00”
1602-518 136” 15” 8.84” 1.00”
1602-635 136” 15” 8.84” 1.00”
1602-756 121” 15” 8.84” .850”
1602-994 141” 15” 8.84” 2.25”
1602-995 153” 15” 8.84” 2.25”
1602-996 162” 15” 8.84” 2.25
1602-997 136” 15” 8.84” 1.25”
2602-019 128” 15” 8.84” 1.00”

Track Warranty Guidelines

Failure Mode Description Cause Warranty
Delamination (A) Condition in which the track fabric cleanly Result of poor adhesion between fabric and rubber Covered
separates or spreads apart from the rubber. material
Tread/External Condition in which the lugs are torn, Most often a result of riding/spinning on rugged terrain . Not Covered
Lug Damage cracked, worn, or separated. ..
(B) -rocks,
-jagged ice,
-metal objects,
-gravel roads.
High speed running with poor lubrication may produce
gummy external track lugs leading to separation.
Edge Tearing A track failure that occurs along the side of Rods out of center. If a rod is positioned off-center dur- Covered
(C) the track in which tearing occurs either par- ing track manufacturing, tearing along the side of the
allel or perpendicular to the track edge. track may occur ± 1/2 in. from the edge.
Traction Product Cutting that occurs where a stud or pick is Often the result of contact having been made with a Not Covered
and Clip Damage attached to the track. This includes tearing solid or jagged object (e.g. rocks, ice, metal, gravel,
due to stud pull-through as well as track etc.).
clips that are torn off.
Internal Lug Dam- Condition in which internal lugs are torn, Result of contact being made with a foreign object. Not Covered
age worn, or cracked.
Track derailment can also cause this damage.
Broken Rods/ Condition in which tracks are found to have Typically, results from track impacts and overheating. Not Covered
Missing Clip broken rods. Gummy tread sometimes
(D) accompanies broken rods. Overheating of the rod can result from friction buildup
due to poor lubrication or riding at high continuous
Wear clip and rod section broken out and speeds for long periods of time in minimal snow condi-
missing. tions.

Gummy tread and brown or dark brown rod color at the

center sometimes accompanies this failure.

Signs of wear strip material melted and sticking to the

edges of the wear clip. Also, wear clips that have started
to turn blue in color from overheating are all signs of
operating the snowmobile on minimal snow.
Large Deformities Condition in which a track has large defor- Manufacturing flaw. Covered
of the Track or Air mities which may include air bubbles/pock-
Bubbles ets/voids within the track.
Lugs Torn Off Condition normally found on deep lug Typically, the result of operating a deep lug track on min- Not Covered
Outer Belt (B) tracks. imal snow at high rates of speed. This track is designed
for deep snow mountainous areas only.

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 A C

734-522A 734-522C

B D

734-522B 734-522D

Rebuildable Shock 2007 Rebuildable

Tools Required Shock Specifications

Part Number Shock Tool Ski Shock (p/n 2703-008)

Crossfire (STD)
0644-268 Bearing Cap Installation Tool
Compression: Rebound:
0644-057 Shock Spring Removal Tool
8. 1.30 x .006 1. 1.25 x .010
0744-020 Inflation Needle
7. .800 x .006 2. .800 x .006
0644-334 Gas Shock Retaining Blocks
6. .700 x .015 1.125 x .094 Backup
0644-162 Replacement Needle
5. 1.25 x .008
0644-169 Shock Piston Location Tool
4. 1.10 x .010
0644-151 Nitrogen Regulator
3. 1.00 x .010
0744-021 Shock Rod Clamping Tool

9
2. .900 x .010
0644-348 IFP Removal Tool
1. .800 x .010
0644-350 IFP Depth Setting Tool
1.125 x .094 Top Out
0644-402 Floating Piston Removal Tool Kit
Piston Depth 7.500 in./Piston Orifice .120 in.
0644-403 Bearing Cap Seal Protector (1/2-in.)
Extended Length 18.70 in./Collapsed Length 12.60 in.
0644-404 Bearing Cap Seal Protector (5/8-in.)
0644-425 Gas Shock Rod/Body Clamping Tool
0644-453 Spanner Wrench - Fox Float Shock
2603-324 Air Pump - Shock Absorber

9-141
 Front Arm Shock (p/n 1704-463) Front Arm Shock (p/n 1704-482)
Crossfire (STD) Crossfire Sno Pro
Compression: Rebound: Compression: Rebound:
5. 1.30 x .012 1. 1.25 x .010 4. 1.30 x .015 1. 1.25 x .010
4. 1.10 x .012 2. 1.10 x .010 3. 1.10 x .015 2. .900 x .006
3. 1.00 x .012 3. 1.00 x .010 2. 1.00 x .012 3. .800 x .006
2. .900 x .008 4. .900 x .010 1. .900 x .012 1.125 x .093 Backup
1. .800 x .008 5. .800 x .010 1.125 x .093 Top Out
1.125 x .094 Top Out .620 x .094 Backup Piston Depth .620 in./Piston Orifice .055 in.
Piston Depth 4.26 in./Piston Orifice .093 in. Extended Length 10.79 in./Collapsed Length 8.00 in.
Extended Length 11.22 in./Collapsed Length 7.87 in.
Rear Arm Shock (p/n 1704-484)
Crossfire Sno Pro
Rear Arm Shock (p/n 1704-117)
Crossfire (STD) Compression: Rebound:
Compression: Rebound: 10. 1.60 x .010 1. 1.42 x .015
8. 1.30 x .010 1. 1.25 x .012 9. 1.60 x .010 2. 1.42 x .012
7. 1.10 x .008 2. 1.25 x .012 8. 1.60 x .010 3. 1.30 x .012
6. .900 x .010 3. 1.10 x .012 7. .900 x .008 4. 1.10 x .012
5. .700 x .004 4. 1.00 x .012 6. 1.60 x .010 5. 1.00 x .012
4. 1.25 x .010 5. .900 x .010 5. 1.60 x .010 6. .900 x .015
3. 1.10 x .010 6. .800 x .010 4. 1.42 x .010 7. .800 x .015
2. 1.00 x .010 .620 x .094 Backup 3. 1.30 x .010 .620 x .093 Backup
1. .900 x .010 2. 1.00 x .010
1.125 x .094 Top Out 1. .900 x .010
Piston Depth 5.80 in./Piston Orifice .039 in. 1.57 x .093 Top Out
Extended Length 14.53 in./Collapsed Length 9.89 in. Piston Depth 5.70 in./Piston Orifice .055 in.
Extended Length 14.53 in./Collapsed Length 10.13 in.
Ski Shock (p/n 2703-138)
Crossfire Sno Pro
(Air Chamber 65 psi/1 cc of Shock Oil)
Compression: Rebound: Ski Shock (p/n 1703-783)
M6/M8/M1000
9. 1.30 x .008 1. 1.25 x .010
Compression: Rebound:
8. 1.10 x .008 2. .800 x .010
8. 1.30 x .006 1. 1.25 x .008
7. .900 x .006 1.125 x .093 Backup
7. 1.10 x .006 2. 1.25 x .010
6. .700 x .008
6. .900 x .010 3. 1.10 x .008
5. 1.25 x .010
5. .800 x .010 4. 1.00 x .010
4. 1.10 x .008
4. 1.25 x .008 5. .900 x .010
3. 1.00 x .008
3. 1.10 x .008 6. .800 x .010
2. .900 x .010
2. 1.00 x .010 .620 x .094 Backup
1. .800 x .010
1. .900 x .010
1.125 x .093 Top Out
1.125 x .093 Top Out
Piston Depth 6.970 in./Piston Orifice .093 in.
Piston Depth 1.25 in./Piston Orifice .093 in.
Extended Length 18.80 in./Collapsed Length 12.60 in.
Extended Length 17.575 in./Collapsed Length 12.00 in.

9-142
 Front Arm Shock (p/n 1704-351) Rear Arm Shock (p/n 1704-467)
M-Series (All) M8/M1000 Sno Pro
Compression: Rebound: Compression: Rebound:
5. 1.30 x .012 1. 1.25 x .010 7. 1.30 x .010 1. 1.25 x .010
4. 1.10 x .012 2. 1.10 x .010 6. 1.10 x .010 2. 1.10 x .008
3. 1.00 x .012 3. 1.00 x .012 5. .900 x .006 3. 1.00 x .010
2. .900 x .010 4. .900 x .010 4. 1.25 x 0.10 4. .900 x .010
1. .800 x .008 5. .800 x .010 3. 1.10 x .015 5. .800 x .010
1.125 x .094 Top Out .620 x .094 Backup 2. 1.00 x .015 6. .700 x .010
Piston Depth .650 in./Piston Orifice .059 in. 1. .900 x .015 .620 x .094 Backup
Extended Length 11.25 in./Collapsed Length 8.11 in. 1.125 x .094 Top Out
Piston Depth .900 in./Piston Orifice .039 in.
Rear Arm Shock (p/n 1704-557)
M6/M8/M1000 (STD) Extended Length 14.37 in./Collapsed Length 9.88 in.
Compression: Rebound:
Ski Shock (p/n 1703-764)
7. 1.30 x .010 1. 1.25 x .012 F-Series (STD/LXR)
6. 1.10 x .010 2. 1.10 x .010 Compression: Rebound:
5. .900 x .006 3. 1.00 x .010 8. 1.30 x .008 1. 1.25 x .008
4. 1.25 x .010 4. .900 x .010 7. 1.00 x .008 2. 1.10 x .008
3. 1.10 x .015 5. .800 x .010 6. .700 x .012 3. .800 x .008
2. 1.00 x .015 .620 x .094 Backup 5. 1.25 x .010 4. 1.25 x .010
1. .900 x .015 4. 1.10 x .010 5. 1.10 x .010
1.125 x .094 Top Out 3. 1.00 x .010 6. 1.00 x .010
Piston Depth .900 in./Piston Orifice .039 in. 2. .900 x .010 7. .900 x .010
Extended Length 14.37 in./Collapsed Length 9.88 in. 1. .800 x .010 8. .800 x .010
1.125 x .094 Top Out .620 x .094 Backup
Ski Shock (Fox Air) (p/n 2703-137)
M8/M1000 Sno Pro Piston Depth 7.25 in./Piston Orifice .930 in.
(Air Chamber 60 psi/1 cc of Shock Oil w/Air Volume Reducer) Extended Length 18.80 in./Collapsed Length 12.62 in.
Compression: Rebound:
Front Arm Shock (p/n 1704-571)
10. 1.30 x .008 1. 1.25 x .008 F-Series (STD/LXR)
9. 1.10 x .006 2. 1.25 x .008 Compression: Rebound:
8. .900 x .010 3. 1.10 x .008 6. 1.30 x .008 1. 1.25 x .012
7. .800 x .010 4. 1.00 x .010 5. 1.10 x .008 2. 1.10 x .010
6. 1.25 x .008 5. 1.00 x .010 4. 1.00 x .008 3. 1.00 x .010
5. 1.25 x .006 6. .900 x .010 3. .900 x .008 4. .900 x .010
4. 1.10 x .008 7. .800 x .010 2. .800 x .010 5. .800 x .010
3. 1.00 x .010 .620 x .093 Backup 1. .700 x .012
2.
1.
.900 x .010
.800 x .010
1.125 x .094 Top Out .620 x .094 Backup
Piston Depth 4.55 in./Piston Orifice .093 in.
9
1.125 x .093 Top Out Extended Length 11.77 in./Collapsed Length 8.17 in.
Piston Depth 6.68 in./Piston Orifice .093 in.
Extended Length 17.55 in./Collapsed Length 12.00 in.

9-143
 Rear Arm Shock (p/n 1704-569) Front Arm Shock (p/n 1704-527)
F-Sereis (STD/LXR) F6/F8/F1000 Sno Pro
Compression: Rebound: Compression: Rebound:
7. 1.30 x .012 1. 1.25 x .012 5. 1.30 x .012 1. 1.25 x .012
6. 1.10 x .012 2. 1.10 x .010 4. 1.10 x .012 2. 1.25 x .010
5. .900 x .006 3. 1.00 x .010 3. 1.00 x .012 3. 1.10 x .010
4. 1.25 x .010 4. .900 x .010 2. .900 x .010 4. 1.00 x .010
3. 1.10 x .010 5. .800 x .010 1. .800 x .010 5. 1.00 x .010
2. 1.00 x .010 .620 x .094 Backup 1.125 x .093 Top Out 6. .900 x .010
1. .900 x .010 7. .800 x .010
1.125 x .094 Top Out .620 x .093 Backup
Piston Depth 5.80 in./Piston Orifice .052 in. Piston Depth .580 in./Piston Orifice .055 in.
Extended Length 14.53 in./Collapsed Length 9.89 in. Extended Length 11.76 in./Collapsed Length 8.17 in.

Ski Shock (p/n 2703-116) Rear Arm Shock (p/n 1704-528)

F6/F8/F1000 Sno Pro F6/F8/F1000 Sno Pro
(Air Chamber 65 psi/1 cc of Shock Oil)
Compression: Rebound:
Compression: Rebound:
11. 1.60 x .010 1. 1.42 x .015
9. 1.30 x .008 1. 1.25 x .010
10. 1.60 x .010 2. 1.42 x .012
8. 1.10 x .008 2. .800 x .010
9. 1.60 x .010 3. 1.30 x .012
7. .900 x .006 1.125 x .094 Backup
8. .900 x .008 4. 1.10 x .012
6. .700 x .008
7. .800 x .008 5. 1.00 x .012
5. 1.25 x .010
6. 1.60 x .010 6. .900 x .015
4. 1.10 x .010
5. 1.60 x .010 7. .800 x .015
3. 1.00 x .010
4. 1.42 x .010 .620 x .093 Backup
2. .900 x .010
3. 1.30 x .010
1. .800 x .010
2. 1.00 x .010
1.125 x .094 Top Out
1. .900 x .010
Piston Depth 7.24 in./Piston Orifice .093 in.
1.57 x .093 Top Out
Extended Length 17.50 in./Collapsed Length 12.30 in.
Piston Depth 5.70 in./Piston Orifice .055 in.
Extended Length 14.53 in./Collapsed Length 10.13 in.

9-144
 2. Using a 1-in. wrench, loosen the bearing assembly
Servicing ACT Shock and remove the shock rod and valve assembly
from the shock body.

! WARNING
Before any service is performed on the gas shock
absorber, first discharge all pressure from the shock
remote reservoir. Remove the valve screw from the
pressure valve and insert the Inflation Needle (p/n
0744-020). Open valve until all pressure is released.
Failure to do this may cause personal injury.

REMOVING/CLEANING

1. Remove the shock from the snowmobile.

FS252
2. Wash the shock body in parts-cleaning solvent;
then dry with compressed air to remove sand and
dirt.

! WARNING
When using compressed air to dry components,
always wear safety glasses.

DISASSEMBLING

1. Remove the screw from the pressure valve assem-

bly on the bottom of the shock. Discharge all the
pressure from the shock using the Inflation Needle
(p/n 0744-020). Open the valve in filler handle FS055
until all pressure is released. 3. Pour the oil from the shock body into a suitable
container.
4. Remove the pressure valve assembly. Account for
the O-ring.

FS250
9
FS253
5. Using IFP Installation/Location Tool (p/n 0644-
348), remove the floating piston.

FS251

9-145
 2. Lubricate the O-ring and Teflon strap on floating
piston; then press the floating piston into shock
until flush with the top of the body.

FS254
6. Items to inspect:
A. Shock shaft for straightness, nicks, or burrs.
FS063
B. Shaft bearing end cap — clean, inspect, or
replace.
C. Inside of shock body for scratches, burrs, or
excessive wear.
D. Piston strap for cuts, chipped or nicked edges,
or excessive wear.
E. O-rings for nicks, cuts, or cracks.
F. Valves for kinks or waves.
G. Rubber damper (ski shocks only) for chipping,
cracking, or being missing. FS256

7. Items to replace: 3. Install floating piston tool onto floating piston;

then press floating piston into shock body 5.80 in.
A. Floating piston O-ring.
4. Install the pressure valve assembly and tighten to
B. Shock shaft bearing cap if any signs of oil leaks 2.1-2.5 kg-m (15-18 ft-lb).
or damage.
C. Any part worn or damaged.
„NOTE: For shaft, shaft eyelets, or shaft bearing
cap replacement, see Shaft Eyelet or Bearing Cap
and Shaft Seal sub-section.

ASSEMBLING

1. Set Floating Piston Installation/Location Tool (p/n

0644-402) to 5.80 in.

FS253
5. Fill shock body with lightweight synthetic Shock
Oil (p/n 2639-151) to bottom of threads.

FS255

9-146
 FS257A FS252
6. With the bearing assembly positioned at the top of 9. Pressurize the shock with nitrogen to 200 psi (see
the shock rod, install the shock rod/piston assem- Pressurizing Rebuildable Shocks sub-section).
bly into body; then with the top of the shock body
and rod covered with a shop towel, tap the top of
the rod eyelet with a soft hammer.
„NOTE: Ensure that the piston/valve stack is com-
pletely submerged in shock oil.

FS251
10. Install the valve screw (with O-ring) into the pres-
sure valve assembly.

FS258

„NOTE: Tapping the eyelet will allow air to escape

from the valve stack/piston assembly.

7. While holding up on the eyelet, thread the bearing

assembly into the body.

11. Test operation of the shock.

FS253
9
„NOTE: Shock should feel soft on compression;
constant on rebound.

FS259A
8. Using a 1-in. wrench, tighten the bearing assem-
bly.

9-147
 FS080 FS081

INSTALLING

1. Place the shock into position on the snowmobile.

2. Secure with existing hardware. Tighten securely.

Servicing Position
Sensitive Shock

! WARNING FS052
Before any service is performed on the gas shock
absorber, first discharge all pressure from the shock
remote reservoir. Remove the valve screw from the
pressure valve and insert the Inflation Needle (p/n
0744-020). Open valve until all pressure is released.
Failure to do this may cause personal injury.

REMOVING/CLEANING

1. Remove the shock from the snowmobile.

2. Wash the shock body in parts-cleaning solvent;
then dry with compressed air to remove sand and
dirt. FS053
2. Using a 1-in. wrench, loosen the bearing assembly
! WARNING and remove the shock rod and valve assembly
When using compressed air to dry components, from the shock body.
always wear safety glasses.

DISASSEMBLING

1. Remove the screw from the pressure valve assem-

bly on the bottom of the shock. Discharge all the
pressure from the shock using the Inflation Needle
(p/n 0744-020). Open the valve in filler handle
until all pressure is released.

FS054

9-148
 „NOTE: Account for a set screw, 5/16-in. ball,
spring, spring rod, and a 1/4-in. ball.

FS055
3. Pour the oil from the shock body into a suitable
container.
FS059
5. Remove the pressure valve assembly. Account for
the O-ring.

FS056
4. Using a 3/16-in. Allen wrench, remove the set
screw.
FS060
6. Using IFP Removal Tool (p/n 0644-348), remove
the floating piston.

FS057
9
FS061
7. Items to inspect:
A. Shock shaft for straightness, nicks, or burrs.
B. Shaft bearing assembly — clean, inspect, or
replace.
C. Inside of shock body for scratches, burrs, or
excessive wear.
D. Piston strap for cuts, chipped or nicked edges,
FS058 or excessive wear.
E. O-rings for nicks, cuts, or cracks.
9-149
 F. Valves for kinks or waves.
G. Rubber damper (ski shocks only) for chipping,
cracking, or being missing.
8. Items to replace:
A. Floating piston O-ring.
B. Shock shaft bearing assembly if any signs of oil
leaks or damage.
C. Any part worn or damaged.
„NOTE: For shaft eyelet replacement, see Shaft FS064
Eyelet sub-section.
3. Install floating piston tool onto floating piston;
ASSEMBLING then press floating piston into shock body 5.90 in.

1. Set Floating Piston Installation/Location Tool (p/n

0644-402) to 5.90 in.

FS065

FS062
2. Lubricate the O-ring and Teflon strap on floating
piston; then press the floating piston into shock
until flush with the top of the body.

FS066
4. Install the pressure valve assembly and tighten to
2.1-2.5 kg-m (15-18 ft-lb).

FS063

FS060

9-150
5. Fill shock body with lightweight synthetic Shock
Oil (p/n 2639-151) to bottom of threads.

FS072
7. Install the set screw and tighten to 1.0 kg-m (7 ft-
lb).
FS068
6. Install by-pass components: 1/4-in. ball, spring
rod, spring, and 5/16-in. ball.

FS073
8. Install shock rod/piston assembly into body.
FS069 „NOTE: The bearing assembly should be down
against the piston assembly (rod fully extended)
for installing purposes.

FS070
9
FS074
9. While holding up on the eyelet, thread the bearing
assembly into the body.

FS071

9-151
 12. Install the valve screw (with O-ring) into the pres-
sure valve assembly.

FS076

„NOTE: Air will bleed out of flat area on the bear-

ing assembly. FS079
13. Test operation of the shock.
„NOTE: Shock should feel soft on compression;
constant on rebound.

FS075A
10. Using a 1-in. wrench, tighten the bearing assembly.

FS080

INSTALLING

1. Place the shock into position on the snowmobile.

2. Secure with existing hardware. Tighten to 3.2 kg-
m (23 ft-lb).

Rebuilding/Recharging
FS077
Fox Air Shocks
11. Pressurize the shock with nitrogen to 200 psi (see
Pressurizing Rebuildable Shocks sub-section).
! WARNING
Always wear latex or rubber gloves when servicing a
shock absorber with shock oil.

DISASSEMBLING

1. Remove the valve cap; then bleed the air from the
air chamber.

FS078
9-152
 FS141 FS144
2. While holding the end cap; unscrew the air 5. Using a pick, remove the nylon pellet from the
chamber. nitrogen bladder.

FS142 FS145A

„ NOTE: The air chamber should only be hand- 6. Using a 3/16-in. Allen-wrench, loosen the nitrogen
tight.
bladder ½ turn.

3. Drain the oil from the air chamber.

FS146
7. Using Inflation Needle (p/n 0744-020), remove all
9
FS143 the nitrogen from the shock.
4. Remove the air chamber from the bottom of the
shock body.

9-153
 FS147 FS150
8. Using a 5/64-in. Allen-wrench, remove the set 11. Remove the shock rod/piston assembly from the
screw from the bearing cap. shock body.

FS148 FS151
9. Using a magnet on an Allen-wrench, remove the 12. Drain the oil from the shock body into a suitable
check ball. container.
13. Using Floating Piston Removal Tool (p/n 0644-
402), remove the floating piston.

FS149
10. Using Spanner Wrench (p/n 0644-453), loosen the
bearing cap.
FS152

„NOTE: For ease in removing the piston, use the

inflation needle to help vent the shock body.

9-154
 FS153 FS156
14. Clean and inspect all components. 4. Using standard Arctic Cat Shock Oil, fill the shock
body to the bottom of the threads; then, allow to sit
ASSEMBLING/CHARGING 1-2 minutes to ensure no air is in the oil.

1. Lubricate the O-ring and wiper on the floating pis-

ton with shock oil.

FS157
5. Lubricate the O-ring on the underside of the end
cap with shock oil.
FS154
2. Carefully install the floating piston into the shock
body until it is below the threads.

FS158
9
6. Lower the shock rod into the shock body until the
piston is submerged in oil.
FS155
3. Using Floating Piston Installation Tool (p/n 0644-
402), install the floating piston while using the
inflation needle to vent the shock body.
„NOTE: Refer to the 2007 Rebuildable Shock
Specifications sub-section in this section.

9-155
 FS159 FS150A
7. While keeping the shock rod fully extended, 9. Install the check ball and set screw into the bearing
thread the bearing cap into position. cap.

FS160 FS162
8. Using Spanner Wrench (p/n 0644-453), tighten the
bearing cap.

FS163
10. Charge the shock with nitrogen to 200 psi.
FS161

„NOTE: When tightening the bearing cap, note air

and excess oil being bled from the hole in the cap.

FS164
11. Using a 3/16-in. Allen-wrench, tighten the
nitrogen bladder.

9-156
 FS165 FS168
12. Install the nylon pellet by gently tapping it with a 16. Slide the air chamber onto the shock body.
plastic mallet.

FS169
FS166 17. Add 1 cc of Fox Float Fluid (p/n 4639-012) into
13. Test the shock for proper operation. the chamber.
14. Using compressed air, blow all oil from the holes
in the bearing cap.

9
FS170
18. Thread the air chamber into the end cap until
hand-tight.
FS167
15. Lubricate the seal on the air chamber with Fox
Float Fluid (p/n 4639-012).

FS171

9-157
„NOTE: Prior to installing the air chamber, make
sure the end cap O-ring is properly positioned in Servicing Fox Zero Pro
the chamber.
Shock Absorbers
19. Invert the shock and secure by the end cap to
assure the air chamber is tight.
This procedure shows the proper methods for disas-
sembling, rebuilding, and assembling the pro shock
absorbers with no external damping adjustments.

! WARNING
Before starting, read through all of these instruc-
tions first to become familiar with the procedure.
Make sure the work area is clean and all of the nec-
essary tools are available. These shocks contain
high pressure nitrogen gas. Always use proper
safety equipment such as latex gloves and safety
glasses when working on shock absorbers.

„NOTE: Some illustrations and photographs used

FS172
in the following sub-sections are used for clarity
20. Using a hand pump, inflate the air chamber to purposes and are not designed to depict actual
60 psi for the M-Series models or 65 psi for the
conditions.
Crossfire/F-Series models.
DISASSEMBLING

1. Remove the steel sleeve and polyurethane bush-

ings from the eyelets on both ends of the shock.
2. Clean the entire shock assembly with soapy water.
Dry the shock assembly with compressed air.

! CAUTION
Use a soft-bristle brush to remove as much dirt and
debris as possible. Do not pressure wash the shock
as this can force water and debris inside causing
damage to the seals.
FS173
21. Install the valve cap. ! WARNING
When using compressed air to dry components,
always wear safety glasses.

„NOTE: If compressed air is not available, use

clean towel to dry the shock assembly.

3. Clamp the body eyelet of the shock securely in

vise with shaft side up.
4. Remove the button-head screw from the nitrogen
valve in the shock body.

FS174

9-158
 FS040 FS006
5. Insert the needle squarely into center of the nitro- 9. Remove the shaft assembly from the body tube
gen valve to release the pressure. and place it on a clean, lint-free paper towel.
10. Remove the shock from the vise and pour shock
oil from body tube into a proper disposal con-
tainer. DO NOT REUSE OLD SHOCK OIL.
11. Clamp the body cap of the shock securely in vise
with the open end of the body tube pointing up.
12. Loosen and remove the nitorgen valve from the
body.

FS016

! WARNING
Point the nitrogen valve away from face and body to
avoid injury when discharging or charging the
shock.

6. When the shock is fully discharged, pull the needle

away from the reservoir in a straight, smooth
motion.
FS014

7. Loosen (but do not remove) the bearing bleed 13. Remove the shock body from the vise; then invert
screw. the shock body and place it on a folded shop towel
open end down.
14. Using compressed air (NEVER USE HIGH
PRESSURE NITROGEN), insert the air gun noz-

9
zle into the nitrogen valve port and blow the IFP
out of the shock body and onto the folded shop
towel.

FS013
8. Loosen and unscrew the bearing assembly from
the shock body.

FS012

9-159
15. Clean the body tube, reservoir tube, and the IFP
with solvent. Dry with compressed air in a well
ventilated area.
16. Set body assembly aside on a clean, lint-free
towel.
17. Clamp the shaft eyelet securely in vise with the
piston end up.
18. Remove the piston lock nut from the end of the
shaft.

FS010
21. Slide bearing assembly off of shaft.

! CAUTION
Use care when passing the bearing over the shaft
threads not to scratch the inside of the bearing
assembly.

22. Remove the bleed screw from the bearing and set
them both on a clean, lint-free towel.

FS008
REBUILDING
19. Hold the tip of a screwdriver against the end of 1. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, remove the snap
shaft; then hold the piston assembly under the top- ring from the bearing housing. Using fingers,
out plate and lift upwards. remove the FIST scraper from the housing. Using
a scribe, remove the O-ring from the inside of the
FIST scraper by “spearing” the seal with the point
of the scribe and pulling it out.

FS009

„NOTE: Keeping the components in order is criti-

cal for proper performance of the shock absorber.
FS011
Doing steps 20-21 properly ensures that proper
order is kept. ! CAUTION
20. Slide the piston assembly onto the shaft of the Care must be taken when using a scribe to remove a
screwdriver. Pull the screwdriver away from shock seal. Always spear the seal with the point of the
shaft while supporting the piston assembly and set scribe. Do not attempt to wedge the scribe behind
this on a clean, lint-free towel. the seal as this could cause damage to the seal
groove and compromise the performance of the
shock.

2. Using a scribe, remove the U-cup wiper and O-

ring seals from the bearing housing.
3. Thoroughly clean the FIST bearing, bearing hous-
ing, and piston assembly with solvent. Dry with
compressed air in a well ventilated area.

9-160
 4. Using a scribe, remove the O-ring seal from the 3. Hold the piston assembly from underneath the top-
IFP. out plate and place the end of the screwdriver onto
the end of the shock shaft. Slide the piston assem-
5. Install the new, well lubricated O-ring into the bly onto the shaft end. Check to make sure the pis-
FIST bearing. Check to make sure the O-ring is ton assembly is seated properly and install the
properly seated and is not twisted. piston lock nut. Tighten nut to 2.5 kg-m (18 ft-lb).
Remove shaft assembly from vise and set it aside
„NOTE: To aid in proper seating of the O-ring, it on a clean, lint-free paper towel.
may be advisable to use a soft, blunt object (non-
writing end of a pen, etc.) to push it in.

6. Install the new, well lubricated O-rings into the

bearing housing making sure the shaft O-ring is in
the groove next to the DU bushing and that the O-
rings are properly seated and not twisted. It may
be advisable to use a soft, blunt object to push it in.
7. Install the new U-cup seal into bearing. U-cup
should be installed so the cupped end is facing the
DU bushing inside of bearing. Check to make sure
seal is properly seated. It may be advisable to use a
soft, blunt object to push it in.
8. Install FIST bearing into housing. Check for FS008
proper orientation of the FIST bearing. The 4. Clamp the body of the shock securely in the vise
stepped side of the FIST bearing should be visible. with the open end of the body facing up.
9. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, install the snap 5. Lubricate the IFP O-ring with assembly lube and
ring into the bearing housing. Check for proper wrap a new piston ring around it.
orientation of the snap ring. The flat side of the
snap ring should be visible. Check to make sure 6. Insert the IFP into the shock body (with the dished
the snap ring is properly seated. side facing up toward the open end of the shock
body) to just below the bearing threads.

FS007
FS015
10. Install the new, well greased O-ring onto the IFP.
11. Replace the bearing bleed screw O-ring.
7. Using Floating Piston Installation/Location Tool
(p/n 0644-402), install the floating piston while
using the inflation needle to vent the shock body.
9
ASSEMBLING
„NOTE: Refer to the 2007 Rebuildable Shock
1. Clamp shaft eyelet securely in vise and place a Specifications sub-section in this section.
seal tool on end of shaft.
„NOTE: Depth is measured from the edge of the
2. Lubricate the bearing assembly seals with an body opening to the outside edge of the IFP (not
assembly lube. Slide the bearing assembly onto the center depression of the IFP).
shaft with the FIST bearing facing the eyelet. This
should be done in a single smooth motion to avoid 8. Lubricate the O-ring on the nitrogen valve with
damaging the seals. assembly lube and thread it into the body. Tighten
securely.

9-161
 FS014 FS006
9. Fill the body tube with oil to the bottom of the 16. Push the shaft all the way down until the eyelet
bearing threads. Wrap the new piston band around lightly contacts the FIST scraper on the bearing
the piston making sure the rounded edges face out. assembly. It should go all the way down without
Insert the shaft assembly into the body tube. any feeling of contact or interference.
Slowly push shaft into body until piston assembly
is approximately 12.7 mm (0.5 in.) below the oil „NOTE: At this point, DO NOT attempt to pull the
surface. shaft up out of the body.

10. Slowly stroke the shaft assembly up and down 17. If there is any interference while pushing the shaft
over about a 1-inch range two to three times being into the body, the IFP is in the wrong location.
very careful not to pull the piston assembly out of
the oil. ! WARNING
„NOTE: At this point, there should be no air bub- If there is interference, unthread the bearing assem-
bles rising from the piston assembly. bly from the body and repeat steps 4-16 of Assem-
bling. Failure to repeat the steps and rid the shock of
11. Top off the shock body with oil and slowly pull the the interference may cause damage to the shock
shaft up until the piston assembly is about in the resulting in improper shock performance and could
middle of the bearing threads. cause operator injury.
12. Holding the shaft in that position, slide the bearing 18. If there is no interference, proceed to step 19.
assembly down the shaft and start threading it into
the body by hand. Oil should flow out of the bear- 19. Maintain the shock in the vise.
ing bleed hole.
20. Make sure the nitrogen valve is directed outward.
13. As the bearing assembly is being threaded down, it
will contact the damping piston assembly and pull 21. Insert the needle squarely into the center of the
it down into the shock body with it. As the bearing nitrogen valve (taking care that the valve is
is being threaded in from this point, be sure the directed away from face and body) and pressurize
damping piston assembly stays in contact with the the reservoir to 200 psi. The shock shaft should be
bearing. fully extended from the pressure before the final
pressure reading is taken. Continue charging while
14. When the bearing is threaded all the way down, pulling the reservoir away from the needle using a
thread the bleed screw into the bearing assembly smooth, straight motion. Keep the reservoir as
and tighten it securely. straight as possible to prevent the needle from
bending. As the reservoir and needle separate, a
“popping” sound should be heard.

FS013
15. Tighten the bearing assembly into the body.

9-162
 FS016 AG260

! WARNING „NOTE: The eyelet must be heated up to 300° for

Charge the shock using nitrogen gas only. DO NOT the Loctite to soften.
CHARGE WITH ANY OTHER TYPE OF GAS. Doing so
will compromise the performance of the shock and
3. Using a wrench, unscrew the eyelet from the shaft.
may be EXTREMELY DANGEROUS.

22. Install the button-head screw into the nitrogen

valve.

AG261

„NOTE: With the eyelet removed, inspect the bot-

tom-out bumper for cracks or wear.
FS040
23. Clean all oil residue from the shock and reservoir INSTALLING
with solvent and dry with compressed air in a well
ventilated area. 1. Clean shaft threads and eyelet threads.

24. Install the polyurethane bushings and steel sleeves 2. Apply red Loctite #271 to both threads, install the
into the eyelets. eyelet, and tighten securely.

Shaft Eyelet Pressurizing

Rebuildable Shocks
REMOVING
9
To pressurize the gas shock absorber, a regulator sys-
1. Using Shock Rod Clamping Tool (p/n 0744-021) tem and a nitrogen tank will be needed.
to prevent damage to the shaft surface, place the
shock shaft into a vise.
2. Heat the shaft eyelet with a torch to soften the
Loctite.

9-163
 AG271 FS079

! WARNING 2. Turn the nitrogen tank valve open and slowly

rotate the regulator T-handle inward until the
Never have a nitrogen bottle in the area without hav- gauge reads 200 lb of pressure; then close filler
ing it chained or secured. If the bottle should tip over valve and remove inflation needle.
and the regulator break off, the gas inside it is under
1800 lb of pressure and personal injury may result. 3. Install the screw into the bladder housing and
tighten securely.
! WARNING
4. With the reservoir pressurized, push down on the
Always rotate the regulator T-handle to its loose shock shaft until it nearly bottoms and release it.
position each time when finished using the system. The shaft should return to its extended position
Each time before the nitrogen tank valve is opened, smoothly.
check to make sure the regulator T-handle is turned
out. When opening the nitrogen tank valve, never „NOTE: If a soft spot or a mushy area is felt as the
stand in front of the regulator in case there should shaft is pushed down, this would indicate air in the
be a problem. shock body. If there is air in the shock body, dis-
charge the reservoir gas pressure. Disassemble
„NOTE: Before inserting the needle into the blad- the shock to the point that the “filling with oil” and
der, lubricate the needle with light oil to make the “bleeding air” procedures can be redone.
installation easier. Assemble and repeat the pressurizing procedure.
To test the shock absorber for nitrogen gas leaks,
1. Insert the Inflation Needle (p/n 0744-020) into the submerge in water.
shock bladder; then open the valve on the filler
handle.

Troubleshooting Track
Problem: Track Edge Frayed — Drive Lugs Worn
Condition Remedy
1. Track alignment adjusted incorrectly 1. Align — replace track
Problem: Track Worn Adjacent to Outer Drive Lugs
Condition Remedy
1. Track tension adjusted incorrectly 1. Adjust track tension
2. Rear idler wheels dirty — damaged 2. Clean — replace idler wheels
Problem: Track Ratchets — Slaps Tunnel
Condition Remedy
1. Track tension adjusted incorrectly (too loose) 1. Adjust track tension (tighten)
2. Drive sprockets misaligned — damaged 2. Align — replace sprockets
Problem: Wear-Strip Wear Excessive
Condition Remedy
1. Slide rail bent — broken — damaged 1. Repair — replace slide rail
2. Track alignment adjusted incorrectly 2. Adjust track alignment

9-164