Argo Service Manual
Argo Service Manual
SECTION GI
General Information
Table of Contents
Forward....................................................................................... GI-2
General Instructions................................................................... GI-3
Available Service Instruction..................................................... GI-4
Argo Vehicle Capacity................................................................ GI-5
Model Identification (early models only)..................................GI- 6, 7
Identification and Location of Controls................................... GI-8, 9
Argo Model Specifications......................................................... GI-10, 11
Information Labels..................................................................... GI-12
Argo Torque Specifications........................................................ GI-13, 14
Maintenance Chart..................................................................... GI-15
Trouble Shooting Charts............................................................ GI-16, 17
Flat Rate Schedule (Service)...................................................... GI-18, 19, 20
Flat Rate Schedule (Accessories)............................................... GI-21, 22
Tool List.......................................................................................GI-23, 24, 25
Special Tools................................................................................ GI-26, 27
Foreward
ODG has prepared this Argo Service Manual to assist qualified technicians of authorized
ARGO dealers and distributors in providing fast and effective service and maintenance of
the following ARGO vehicles produced from 1992.
Proper and regular maintenance is essential to prolonging the life of the ARGO and will
result in satisfied ARGO customers. Please refer to this Service Manual before
performing any servicing procedure on any of the above vehicles.
All information contained in this service manual is based on the product specification
records of Ontario Drive & Gear Ltd. If the ARGO that you are servicing differs from
the specifications contained in this manual, contact Ontario Drive & Gear for information.
ODG reserves the right to alter servicing procedures at any time without obligation or
prior notification.
Liability for any personal injury, or damage to property or an ARGO vehicle which
is occasioned by the use of this 673-04 Argo Service Manual, is in no way assumed
by Ontario Drive & Gear Ltd.
Read your owner/operators manual before you operate your ARGO. It contains safe
operating instructions and warns the user about potential hazards that can result in
personal injury.
Warning text warns the user about potential hazards that can result in personal injury or
death.
Caution text contains cautions that can prevent damage to the vehicle.
This manual is based on the latest product information available at the time of printing.
Ontario Drive & Gear Limited reserves the right to make changes at any time and without
obligation.
Une version francaise du manuel d’operation est disponsible sous le numero suivant 671-
04FR. Les plaquettes d’avertissement et d’instructions qui apparaissent sur l’Argo sont
aussi disponsibles en francais sous le numero suivant 126-73.
This edition of the ARGO Service Manual contains information and servicing procedures
for models produced from 1992, when the 16H.P and then in 1995 the 18 H.P " V" Twin
Briggs & Stratton Vanguard engines were introduced to our vehicle line up. Also covered,
is the 8x8 Conquest model powered by the 20 H.P Kawasaki FD620D Liquid cooled
engine which was introduced in 1993 & The Avenger Argo model, introduced in January
of 2004. Although many parts and service procedures outlined in the 673-04 Service
Manual also pertain to Avenger, additional supplement sections have been created in order
to cover parts and procedures unique to Avenger (See supplement part number above).
The service manuals 673-00, 673-01 and 673-02 Supplement, can be used for Magnum
models prior to 1995. Although the 673-02 supplement indicates coverage up until 1988
only for V888 & V688 models, the servicing procedures in both earlier manuals are still
applicable to the Magnum models produced from 1988 to 1994. However, attention
should be payed to the appropriate Magnum parts manual for these later years of vehicle
production to identify any changes that may have been made to components until the
Response was introduced in 1995. Refer to the Vehicle Parts Manual CD (Part # 673-
05CD)
Ontario Drive & Gear Limited www.odg.com
PH.(519)- 662-2840 FAX (519)- 662-2421 GI-4
Argo Service Manual General Information
Ontario Drive & Gear Limited has been building ARGO vehicles
since 1967. By listening carefully to our customers and
responding to their needs, we have been constantly improving
the ARGO and will continue to do so.
Argo Vehicle Capacity
Vehicle capacity includes occupants, cargo, fuel, and all accessories. Capacity for
occupants and cargo is reduced by the weight of accessories as shown in the chart below.
Available vehicle capacity must be reduced if your vehicle is equipped with any
accessories. Reduce the available capacity by the total weight of accessories fitted to your
vehicle
Reduce By
Accessory On On
On Vehicle Land Water
Regular Tracks 6x6 135 lbs. (60 kg) 85 lbs. (40 kg)
Regular Tracks 8x8 175 (80) 110 (50)
Supertracks 6x6 145 (65) 90 (40)
Supertracks 8x8 210 (95) 135 (60)
Rubber Track Kit 240 (110) (150) (68)
Winch Kit 50 (23) 50 (23) Do NOT use an Argo on water when
Brush Guard 11 (5) 11 (5) equipped with a snow plow. Do NOT
use an Argo 6x6 in water when
Windshield 33 (15) 33 (15) equipped with a ROPS. The in-
creased weight of the snow plow out
Roll Bar 6x6 50 (23) 50 (23) front or the top-heavy weight of the
ROPS 6x6 130 (60) SEE WARNING ROPS on the 6x6 will make the Argo
unstable and could cause the vehi-
ROPS 8x8 140 (64) 140 (64) cle to capsize, causing injury or
drowning to the driver and passen-
ROPS Avenger 155 (70) 155 (70) gers.
Half Top 16 (7) 16 (7)
Full Top 8x8 27 (12) 27 (12)
Full Top 6x6 22 (10) 22 (10)
Snow Plow 190 (85) SEE WARNING
Dump Box 100 (45) 500 (225)
Rear Bench Seat 34 (15) 34 (15)
Magnum V891-23
V691-23 Bigfoot V698-58
Magnum V891-27
Magnum V894-23
V894-27
Response V896-55
Response V896-65
INFORMATION LABELS
There are labels on all models which indicate operating hazards and provide special
operating instructions. Information about the use of the holding brake system, the use of
the vehicle in water, correct fueling procedures and placement of the floorpans has been
provided on distinctive coloured labels fastened to the various locations on the Argo.
The label shown below is located behind the seat in the rear compartment of all 6-wheel models.
Clutch System
Driver Clutch Nut on Clutch.......................... ................100 FT. LBS. 135.6Nm
Driver Clutch Bolt to Briggs Engine.............................. 50 FT. LBS. 67.8Nm
Driver Clutch Bolt to Kohler Engine (Avenger)..............40 FT. LBS 54.3Nm
Driver Clutch Bolt to Kaw. Engine ............... ................50 FT. LBS. 67.8Nm
Driven Clutch Bolt to Input Shaft................................... 15 FT. LBS. 20.3Nm
Spring Cover Cap Screws............................................... 85in. lbs. 9.6Nm
Powerpak Assembly
Engine to Powerpak Frame (Kaw)..................................30 FT. LBS. 40.7Nm
Engine to Powerpak Frame (Briggs................................ 24 FT. LBS. 32.6Nm
Engine to Powerpak Frame (Kohler)...............................35 FT. LBS 47.5Nm
Transmission to Powerpak Frame................................... 75 FT. LBS. 101.7Nm
Brake Cooling Air Duct to Frame.................. ................35 in.lbs. 4.0Nm
Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts.................... ................96 IN. LBS. 10.7Nm
Belt Guard to Transmission........................... ................30 FT. LBS. 40.7Nm
Brake Bracket Mounting Bolts....................................... 240 IN. LBS. 27.1Nm
Power Pack Bolts to Main Vehicle Frame.......................80 FT. LBS. 108.2Nm
BEFORE
AFTER INITIAL EVERY SECTION
EACH
USE REF.
2hrs. 8hrs. 20hrs. 10hrs. 25hrs. 50hrs. 100hrs. 250hrs.
COOLANT LEVEL (CONQUEST & AVENGER) X
FAN BELT TENSION (CONQUEST & AVENGER) X
CHECK FUEL LEVEL X 2.2
CHECK TIRE INFLATION X 7.2.6
CHECK TWIST GRIP THROTTLE OPER. X 2.2
CHECK STEERING LEVER TRAVEL X 2.2
CHECK ENGINE INTAKE/EXH. FOR OBSTR. X 2.2
CHECK THAT DRAIN PLUGS ARE IN PLACE X 5.6
CHECK ENGINE OIL LEVEL X 6.1.1
CHANGE ENGINE OIL & OIL FILTER
- KAWASAKI & KOHLER X X 6.1.3
- BRIGGS & STRATTON X X 6.1.3
CHECK TRANSMISSION OIL LEVEL X X 6.2.1
CHANGE TRANSMISSION OIL X X 6.2.2
CLEAN AIR PRE-CLEANER (Briggs & Kaw. only) X 6.3.1
CHECK CLEAN/REPLACE AIR FILTER X 6.3.1
REPLACE FUEL FILTER X 6.3.2
LUBRICATE DRIVEN CLUTCH X 6.4.2
SERVICE DRIVER & DRIVEN CLUTCH X 6.4.2
LUBRICATE DRIVE CHAINS X 6.4.3
REMOVE, CLEAN & LUBE. DRIVE CHAINS X 6.4.3
LUBRICATE IDLER CHAINS X 6.4.4
REMOVE, CLEAN & LUBE. IDLER CHAINS X 6.4.4
LUBRICATE AXLE FLANGE - OUTER CAVITY X 6.4.5
LUBRICATE AXLE FLANGE - INNER CAVITY X 6.4.5
LUBRICATE INNER AXLE BEARINGS X 6.4.7
LUBRICATE IDLER BEARINGS X 6.4.6
LUBRICATE STEERING LEVERS X
CHECK BATTERY FLUID LEVEL & CAPS X 7.1.2
CLEAN BATTERY TERMINALS & CONNEC. X 7.1.2
CLEAN BATTERY X 7.1.2
CLEAN, ADJUST/REPLACE SPARK PLUGS X 7.1.4
CHECK THE DRIVE BELT X 7.2.1
CHECK NYLON SLIDERS - DRIVEN CLUTCH X 7.2.2
CHECK SLIDERS - CHAIN TAKE-UP SYSTEM X X X 7.2.4
CHECK & ADJUST IDLER CHAINS X X 7.2.5
SERVICE THE CLUTCH UNITS X 6.4.2
INSPECT BRAKE PADS X 7.3.1
ADJUST HOLDING BRAKE X 7.3.5
CHECK HYD. BRAKE FLUID LEVEL/COND. X 7.4.2
CHECK FUEL TANK CONNECTIONS/LINES X
INSPECT WIRING HARNESS X
TIGHTEN BEARING EXT. BOLTS X X 7.2.8
CLEAN OUT SPARK ARRESTER X 7.1.5
The intervals shown on the schedule are based on average operating conditions. Vehicles which are subjected to
severe use and wet or dusty conditions will require more frequent servicing. Use only Argo replacement parts to
ensure safe operation of the vehicle and to comply with the warranty coverage.
We strongly recommend that an Argo Dealer perform a complete check-over of your vehicle after the initial
20 hours of operation, then once each year. This will reduce maintenance costs over the life of your vehicle.
Electric starter inoperative 1. Loose electrical connections 1. Clean and re-tighten electrical
connections
2. Battery charge low or dead 2. Recharge battery or replace as
necessary
3. Faulty starter motor 3. Remove and replace or repair the starter
motor.
Engine turns over but will not 1. Engine is cold and choke is not pulled 1. Pull out the choke and try to start
start out again
2. Fuel tank is empty 2. Refill tank
3. Blocked fuel or air filter 3. Remove obstruction or replace
filter as necessary
4. Carburetor adjustment too lean 4. Adjust as detailed in the engine
manufacturer’s manual
5. Spark plugs defective or fouled 5. Clean and re-gap or replace
6. Ignition system inoperative 6. Refer to the Briggs & Stratton engine
service manual
7. Insufficient compression 7. Take the vehicle to a factory
authorized engine repair outlet
8. Improperly operating electric fuel 8. Check that electric fuel pump is
pump or fuel shut off solenoid. operating. Make sure fuel shut off
KAWASAKI ENGINE ONLY. solenoid is activated to allow fuel
into carburetor.
Vehicle will not move or turn 1. Transmission in neutral or not 1. Place gear shift properly in gear
properly engaged in gear
2. Drive belt worn (see Section 7.2.1) 2. Replace belt if worn excessively
3. Clutch not engaging 3. Service clutches
Vehicle pulls to right 1. Right tire pressure too low 1. Inflate all tires to the correct
pressure
2. Left tire pressure too high 2. Same as above
3. Right brake engaged 3. Make sure the steering lever is held
forward against the dash. Adjust
brake assembly if required.
4. Right side drive chain broken 4. Repair or replace
Severe vibration when vehicle 1. Engine loose on mounts 1. Secure engine mounts
service.
2. Driver or driven clutch or engine 2. Same as above.
defective
3. Axle bent 3. Remove and straighten or replace.
4. Wheel rim bent 4. Replace.
5. Worn or damaged drive belt 5. Replace. Clutch service may be
required.
Water leaks into lower body 1. Leak has developed at the axle bearing 1. Replace the bearing flange gaskets.
flange
2. Bearing flange seal has been damaged 2. Replace the bearing flange seal.
3. Water is leaking in around the outer 3. Caulk under 103-81 bolt heads with
bearing flange bolts silicone sealer.
4. Lower body is cut or punctured 4. Repair or replace vehicle lower body
5. Drain plugs not in place 5. Secure drain plugs.
Tire leaks air 1. Tire is punctured 1. Remove tire from rim and repair the
hole with a radial tire patch or
install a tube in the tire.
2. Tire is not properly seated on bead 2. Deflate tire and carefully push tire
bead off the rim. Clean the rim bead
area to remove dirt and foreign
matter. Re-inflate tire.
3. Position of air leak is not obvious 3. Submerge tire and rim in a water
tank. Air may be escaping through
the rim halves or the valve stem.
Repair as required.
4. Defective valve 4. Replace defective valve.
Hydraulic brakes are spongy, 1. Air in hydraulic system 1. Bleed the brake
or there is excessive steering system and add fluid.
lever travel 2. Leak in system 2. Check all fittings, hoses, calipers
and seals for loose connections or
leakage. Refill as needed.
3. Loose brakes 3. Adjust or tighten.
Brakes ineffective 1. Pads have overheated and glazed 1. Replace or clean pads
2. Pads worn beyond 0.10" 2. Replace.
3. Pads are contaminated with lubricant 3. Clean or replace pads
There is a loud bang when the 1. Idler chains worn/loose 1. Adjust/replace idler chains as
vehicle is turned right or left required
2. Drive chains worn/loose 2. Adjust/replace drive chains as
required
Transmission
Clutch System
Powerpack Assembly
Brake System
7000 Front Axle Re & Re 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5
7100 Rear Axle Re & Re 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5
7200 Middle Axle Re & Re 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5
7250 Chain Tensioner Re & Re .3 .3 .3 .3 .3 .3
7300 Idler Shaft (LH) Re & Re 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5
7350 Idler Shaft (RH) Re & Re 2.6 2.6 2.6 2.6 2.6
7400 Idler Shaft Alignment Only .3 .3 .3 1.4 1.4 .3
7500 Battery Frame Re & Re .3 .3 .3 .3 .3 N/A
Electrical System
Starter Removal
SECTION EN
Engine System
Table of Contents
General Instructions
Basic engine servicing information is provided in this section of the manual. For
more detailed servicing operations please refer to the proper engine service manual
listed in the chart below.
S, SN, BF, F Briggs & Stratton Briggs & Stratton Repair 670-33
RB, R, B, N V Twin OHV 16,18 & 23H.P Manual V Twin OHVN 670-40-1
(23H.P)
Kawasaki Service Manual
C, CB, A Kawasaki FD620D Four Stroke Liquid Cooled 99924-2030-03
Do not run the engine if the oil level is above the FULL mark or below the ADD
mark. Premature engine damage or total engine failure can occur when the oil level
is not properly maintained.
EN-2
EN-1
During the initial engine break-in period, change the oil after the first 8 hours of operation
for Briggs & Stratton and 20 hours of operation for the Kawasaki. After the break-in
period, change the engine oil every 50 operating hours, or more frequently if the vehicle is
operated in dusty or dirty conditions.
The oil drain plug on the Briggs and Stratton engine is located at both the front and rear of
the engine block. The rear plug on the Briggs & Stratton engine is the recommended
choice for draining the oil (same side as the oil filter). See IMPORTANT on the following
page.
1. Start and warm up the engine so the oil will drain easily.
2. Level the vehicle so the oil will drain completely.
3. Place a suitable container under oil drain of engine and remove drain plug with a
wrench: an 8 point 7/16" square socket for Briggs & Stratton engines or a 21mm
socket for Kawasaki engines.
IMPORTANT
When draining the oil on the Briggs 18h.p or 16 h.p V Twin engines, it is advisable to
remove it from the drain plug located between the engine and transmission (same
side as the oil filter). To provide a good view of the draining area and avoid any
spills into the lower body, it is best to remove the driven clutch and drive belt as well.
Remove the clamp securing the brake cooling duct to its mounting bracket and tilt it
up and out of the line of view of the drain plug area. Position the container beneath
the drain plug and remove the plug. Refer to Removing the Drive Belt and
Removing the Driven Clutch in section CS of this service guide if necessary.
There is limited space between the engine and power pack frame. Cut down an empty
plastic container to the correct height so it will fit under the engine oil drain. Make sure
the container will hold the amount of oil in the engine.
A ziploc plastic bag makes a convenient oil container. It conforms to the space available
and can be closed securely when the oil is drained, then lifted neatly out of the engine
compartment.
4. When all the oil has been drained from the engine, clean and replace the drain plug.
MAKE SURE it is properly tightened before refilling the engine.
5. See Oil Filter Replacement Below.
Before installing the new filter, lubricate the rubber filter gasket with fresh engine oil.
Screw the filter on by hand until the gasket contacts the filter adapter. Tighten 1/2 to 3/4
turn more. Add the specified oil. See previous page for oil capacities based on the engine
powering your vehicle. Start and run engine to check for oil leaks. Stop engine and re-
check oil level. Add oil if required.
Air Filter
All ARGO engines are equipped with a foam precleaner and dry paper air filter element
housed in an air cleaner assembly attached to the carburetor.
Wash and oil the precleaner after every 25 hours of operation or more often under
extremely dusty or dirty conditions.
Check the paper air filter element every 100 hours of operation or more often under
extremely dusty or dirty conditions.
For instructions to remove, clean and replace the air filter components, refer to the air
cleaner section of the engine owner’s manual.
Spark Plugs
Remove and inspect the spark plugs after every 100 hours of operation. Clean the plugs
and reset the gap as detailed in the engine owner’s manual.
Replace the spark plugs if the electrodes are corroded or damaged or if the insulator is
cracked. Use the correct plug for the engine as detailed in the engine owner’s manual.
Re-install the spark plugs carefully, taking care to start the threads properly. Torque the
plugs to 10 - 15 ft. lbs (14 to 20 N·m). Do not over tighten.
When replacing spark plugs on the Kawasaki FD620D Liquid Cooled OHV Engine,
it is extremely important to pay strict attention to the specification number of the
engine being serviced. All Conquest vehicles manufactured prior to vehicle serial
number CB17857 require spark plug part number 92070-2072. Vehicles produced
from CB17857 with a specification number of HS12 or later require spark plug
number 92070-2112.
Kawasaki has made changes to the Cylinder Heads, Head composition, & spark plugs
of the FD620D. The newer spark plugs are longer and will cause damage if used in
an older spec. engine.
Accessing the 4 mounting bolts that secure the engine to the power pack frame requires
the power pack frame to be removed from the vehicle. Both engine and transmission can
be removed through the engine access opening using an overhead hoist. You may prefer
to remove the transmission first before lifting engine and frame through the hood area..
1. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Battery in section ES of this serv-
ice guide.
2. Locate and remove the engine access cover. Photo EN-3
3. Separate the main wire harness from the nylon clips securing it at the back of the
engine. Photo EN-4
EN-3 EN-4
4. Disconnect the main engine wire harness plug located between engine and transmis-
sion. Photo EN-5
5. Remove the starter cable at the electric starter. Photo EN-6
EN-5 EN-6
6. Disconnect the ground wire (leading from the battery ground terminal post), at the
engine.
7. Remove the radiator overflow bottle at the front of the engine.
Conquests manufactured prior to CB14963 have an O.D.G overflow bottle and holder to
remove. Conquests manufactured from CB14963 utilize a Kawasaki bottle secured
directly to the upper radiator bracket.
8. Unclip the fuel line from the nylon clips at the front of the engine.
9. Remove the engine air filter cover and air element. Photo EN-7
10. Remove the 7 fasteners securing the plastic base of the air filter housing.
Photo EN-8
When removing the 3 fasteners securing the base closest to the mouth of the
carburetor, be aware of the 3 metal inserts in each mounting hole. These may pull
out when removing the fastener. Caution is advised to ensure that they do not fall
into the throat of the carburetor undetected. Severe engine damage will occur if this
has not been observed.
EN-7 EN-8
11. Remove the 2 nuts securing the lower metal base of the air filter system to the
carburetor, and remove.
Once the metal base has been removed, temporarily reinstall the 2 nuts to secure the
carburetor lid.
IMPORTANT
Before proceeding any further, be sure to cover the mouth of the carburetor with a
rag, or other option. This will prevent anything from entering the carburetor
unintentionally.
On Conquests manufactured prior to CB14606, remove the molded panel nut at the dash
and slip the assembly back through the body into the engine compartment.
Conquests manufactured from CB14606, require that the choke be disconnected at the
throttle/choke control panel. Photo EN-10 The choke knob is molded to the end of the
cable and does not thread off.
EN-9 EN-10
14. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Muffler and Shroud (Conquest),
steps 1-6 on page DE-3 (models prior to C19672) or steps 1-2 on page DE-7 (mod-
els from C19672).
15. Disconnect the intake hose at the brake cooling duct. Photo EN-11
16. Remove the front pivot mounting bolt securing the power pack frame to the lower
main frame. Photo EN-12
EN-12
EN-11
17. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Drive Belt in section CS of this
service guide.
18. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Driven Clutch, in section CS of
this service guide.
19. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Brake Pads ( Hydraulic ) steps 1-
4, in section BR of this service guide.
20. Locate the (3) mounting bolts that secure the steering and master cylinder assembly
to the transmission and remove them. Photo EN-13
21. Disconnect the wiring at the igniter box which is mounted to the steering assembly.
Photo EN-14
EN-13 EN-14
22. Unfasten the twist grip assembly from the steering handle and remove it.
Photo EN-15
23. Remove the entire hydraulic brake system from the vehicle. The calipers, master
cylinders and brake lines can all remain attached without the loss of any brake fluid.
Photo EN-16
EN-15 EN-16
24. Perform the servicing procedure, Idler Chain Removal, in section WA of this serv-
ice guide.
25. Loosen off the 2 power pack mounting bolts that run through the power pack frame
and connect it with the lower main frame. One is located in front of the idler shaft,
the other behind. Photo EN-17
26. Loosen off the dash support and turn it 90 degrees. Photo EN-18
EN-17 EN-18
EN-19
EN-20 EN-21
29. Gradually and gently begin to raise the power pack assembly out of the engine ac-
cess opening. Photo EN-21 You may have to pry the transmission from the driver’s
compartment to free it from the lower main frame.
30. Set the power pack on a clean work bench and remove the 4 bolts that secure the
engine to the frame. These bolts are threaded into the engine block from below.
Photo EN-22
31. Using the overhead hoist, remove the engine from the power pack frame.
Photo EN-23
EN-22 EN-23
If the engine is being replaced, you will need to remove all Argo components that are not
available with the new engine. These will need to be reassembled to the new engine.
Components include, throttle cable, choke cable, exhaust manifold, driver clutch, etc.
Assembling the Engine to the Power Pack Frame (Kawasaki)
1. Position the engine on to the power pack frame and align the holes in the block with
the holes of the frame. Photo EN-24
EN-24 EN-25
IMPORTANT
As the power pack is lowered into the vehicle, position yourself inside the drivers
compartment. Lift up on the transmission and align the power pack frame with the
vehicle main frame.
4. Position the power pack frame on to the lower main frame and install the front
mounting pivot bolt. Be sure to install the square lockwasher to the mountng bolt
head. Photo EN-26. The bolt is installed from left to right when standing at the
front of the vehicle.
5. Assemble the rear power pack mounting bolt, complete with spacers and
square washers, through the power pack frame. Photo EN-27
EN-26 EN-27
6. Lower the rear of the power pack frame aligning the mounting bolt with the main
frame. Photo EN-28
7. Install the 3rd mid mounting bolt paying close attention to the hardware that is re-
quired along with it. See your illustrated parts manual. Photo EN-29
EN-28 EN-29
9. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Muffler and Shroud (Conquest
Models), in section DE of this service guide.
10. Reconnect the fuel line at the carburetor and secure with the hose clamp.
11. Secure the fuel line to the nylon clips at the front of the vehicle.
12. Assemble the lower metal air filter plate to the top of the carburetor. Photo EN-31
13. Assemble the plastic air filter base to the top of the previously installed metal back-
ing plate, Photo EN-32, being sure to reconnect the tube from the base to the air
breather assembly on top of the engine.
EN-31 EN-32
14. Reinstall the air filter element with foam precleaner, and assemble the cover to the
top of the engine.
15. Reconnect the main engine wire harness located between the engine and transmis-
sion.
16. Reconnect the starter cable at the electric starter and cover with the rubber boot.
17. Secure the main engine harness to the nylon clips between the engine and transmis-
sion.
18. Reconnect the ground wire from the negative battery post terminal to the engine.
19. Reconnect the choke cable assembly.
On Conquests manufactured prior to CB14606, slip the assembly back through the body
at the dash and secure with the molded panel nut. It was not required that the choke was
disconnected at the throttle/choke control panel for engine removal, but if it was, you will
need to reattach it at the linkage as well.
On Conquests manufactured from CB14606, reconnect the cable to the throttle/choke
control panel. It was not required that the choke knob was removed at the dash when the
engine was prepared for removal..
22. Reinstall the steering assembly to the transmission securing it with 3 bolts and
lockwashers. Photo EN-34
23. Reattach the hydraulic brake calipers. Apply blue 242 Loctite to the threads of the
mounting bolts and torque to specifications. See step 2 of Installing the Brake
Pads (Hydraulic), if necessary.
24. Reconnect the ignition system at the ig-
niter box.
29. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Battery, in section ES of this serv-
ice guide and reconnect the wiring.
30. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Firewall, in section VB of this
service guide. See IMPORTANT on following page.
EN-37 EN-38
If the engine is being replaced, all Argo components must be removed first and reinstalled
on the new engine. These include driver clutch, muffler, exhaust manifold and any return
springs.
IMPORTANT
You will notice 8 mounting holes in the block of the engine. It is important that the
correct set of holes is used for clutch offset and belt alignment. Use the holes as
illustrated in Photo EN-40 & 41 below.
EN-40 EN-41
Reattach the clip that secures the starter cable at the front of the engine.
6. Place the brake cooling duct to the top of the mounting bracket and secure with the
gear clamp.
7. Reattach the brake cooling hose to the brake cooling duct and secure with another
gear clamp.
8. Assemble the choke cable to the carburetor linkage. Photo EN-42
EN-42 EN-43
IMPORTANT
Before starting the engine check the engine oil level and re-check all electrical
connections.
SECTION EN
Supplement Pages
1 2
3 4
5 6
7 8
7. Locate the starter at the front of the engine compartment and disconnect both red
and black power wires from the starter solenoid. Photo 9 These wires are enclosed
within a red rubber boot.
8. Remove the drive belt between engine and transmission. Photo 10
9 10
9. Remove the driven clutch from the transmission input shaft. Photo 11 & 12
11
12
13 14
This type of wrench is preferred for removing 3 of the 4 nylon locknut fasteners. The
exception is the fastener located at the rear left corner of the engine block (as viewed by
the operator in the drivers seat). This fastener requires the use of a regular opened end
style wrench.
13. Remove each nylon locking nut and flat washer. Photo 17
16 17
This procedure requires the use of an overhead hoist. Do NOT attempt to lift out by
hand. Ensure all components attached to the engine have been detached. Lift out
slowly and carefully. If you wish to remove the muffler from the engine before
raising it out, you may do so as an optional procedure. You may find it easier to
maneuver the engine up and out with the muffler removed, but it is not necessary.
Ensure all hoist chains or belts are secure, and hooks are locked into place. Keep all
fingers and hands clear of the area from which the engine is being lifted.
14. Attach the overhead hoist to the engine. There is a hook provided on the engine
Photo 18, (located near the yellow oil fill plug on earlier spec. engines and beside
the rear cylinder head cover on later spec. engines),for connecting one side of the
hoist chain. Connect the other side to the rad bracket. Photo 19
18 19
15. Slowly and gently raise the engine through the hood area. Some manuevering is
required as the engine does not necessarily come straight up and out. Avoid damage
to any other components as well as the upper body. Photo 20 & 21
20 21
19. Remove the (5) shims that are installed to the PTO. Photo 25
IMPORTANT
These shims MUST be reinstalled before the driver clutch.
22 23
24 25
1 2
3 4
5. Secure the driver with the hex head fastener. Apply blue LOCTITE and Torque to
specifications. Photo 5
IMPORTANT
For part number and descriptions of all components and hardware, always refer to
your illustrated Argo parts manual.
5 6
IMPORTANT
If you have removed the Kohler Aegis radiator assembly from the engine for any
reason (repair, replacement etc.), ensure, when reinstalling it, that you tie-wrap the
bottom of it securely to the lower bracket as in photo 7 & 8. This will prevent the
lower radiator locating pins from dislodging from the rubber gromments under
heavy vehicle application. Damage can occur to both fan and shroud if this is not
done. Please note that later spec. engines have retaining clips installed to the
locating pins and do not require the tie-wraps to secure the rad in place.
7 8
9. Slowly and gently lower the engine through the hood area. Some manuevering is
required as the engine does not necessarily drop in straight on. Avoid damage to any
vehicle components as well as the upper body. Photo 10 & 11
10 11
IMPORTANT
Align the mounting holes of the engine block with the powerpack frame studs. Once
aligned properly, the engine should just drop into place. Do not force or hammer in
any way. Damage may occur to the threads of the mounting studs.
IMPORTANT
Once the engine is seated into place, ensure that the rubber rad seal is properly
sealing at the face of the radiator. Photo 12
12 13
10. Locate the flat washer and nylon locknut used to secure the engine to the power
pack frame studs. Photo 13 Refer to your illustrated parts manual. Install all
four fasteners and Torque to specifications. Refer to step 12 of Removing The
Engine, for preferred wrenches used to retighten the nylon locknuts.
14 15
16 17
19 20
22 23
24 25
22. Locate and install the tailpipe assembly. Attach the connecting springs between
tailpipe assembly and muffler. Photo26 & 27 Feed the tailpipe assembly in
through the hood area.
26 27
SECTION ES
Electrical System
Table of Contents
General Instructions............................................................................. ES-5
Battery.................................................................................................... ES-6
Checking Battery Fluid Level.............................................................. ES-6
Charging the Battery.............................................................................ES-6
Cleaning the Battery Terminals & Cable Connections......................ES-6
Cleaning the Battery..............................................................................ES-7
Battery Removal.................................................................................... ES-7
Battery Inspection................................................................................. ES-7
Battery Installation............................................................................... ES-8
Changing a Headlamp Bulb (Earlier Conquest Models)...................ES-8
Installing the Headlamp Bulb (Earlier Conquest Models)................ES-9
Removing a Headlamp Bulb................................................................ES-9
Installing a Headlamp Bulb..................................................................ES-10
Removing the Headlamp Lens Assembly
(Conquest Models From CB12580).................................................... ES-10
Installing the Headlamp Lens Assembly
(Conquest Models From CB12580)......................................................ES-11
Headlamp Removal (Earlier Vanguard2 & Vanguard 6x6)..............ES-11
Headlamp Installation (Earlier Vanguard2 & Vanguard 6x6)......... ES-11
Headlamp Removal
(Response, Bigfoot & Later Vanguard2 and Vanguard 6x6)............ ES-12
Headlamp Installation
(Response, Bigfoot & Later Vanguard2 and Vanguard 6x6)............ ES-12
SECTION ES
Electrical System
Table of Contents
Removing the Starter (Conquest Models).......................................... ES-13
Installing the Starter (Conquest Models)............................................ES-14
Removing the Starter
(Response, Bigfoot, Vanguard2 & Vanuard Models)......................... ES-14
Installing the Starter
(Response, Bigfoot, Vanguard2 & Vanguard Models)....................... ES-16
Removing the Brake Cooling Fan (Response & Bigfoot).................. ES-17
Installing the Brake Cooling Fan (Response & Bigfoot).................. ES-18
Removing the Brake Cooling Fan (Conquest).................................... ES-19
Installing the Brake Cooling Fan (Conquest)..................................... ES-20
General Instructions
• Never weld on the vehicle without first disconnecting both positive and negative
battery cables. Make sure the part you are welding is properly grounded.
Battery fluid contains sulphuric acid. If battery fluid comes in contact with skin or
eyes, flush thoroughly with water. If swallowed, call physician or poison control
centre immediately. KEEP AWAY FROM CHILDREN. Serious personal injury can
occur. Always wear rubber gloves and safety glasses when servicing the battery.
Batteries can explode and cause serious personal injury if exposed to flame or
sparks. Never smoke while servicing the battery.
Battery
All models are equipped with a 12 volt, wet cell type battery. The battery is located in the
engine compartment, on the right side in front of the driver’s position.
Ventilate area when charging. Keep away from spark, heat, cigarettes or open flame.
Clean the battery terminals and cable connections every 100 hours. Remove the black
NEGATIVE (-) cables first. Make sure you reconnect the NEGATIVE (-) cables to the
NEGATIVE (-) post and the red POSITIVE (+) cables to the POSITIVE (+) posts.
Damage to the electrical system will occur if the cables are reversed.
Accessing the negative ground cable terminal on Conquest models may require removing
the battery retaining bracket first, then sliding the battery partially out to loosen the
terminal hardware.
4. Slide the battery out through the firewall area.
Battery Inspection
• corroded terminals
• low water level
If any of these conditions are noted, service the battery immediately. Adjust battery fluid
level with distilled water, and clean and grease the battery terminals.
Battery fluid contains sulphuric acid. If it comes into contact with your skin or eyes,
serious personal injury will occur. Always wear rubber gloves and safety goggles
when servicing the battery.
Batteries produce explosive gas. Keep sparks, flames and cigarettes away from the
battery. Re-charge the battery only in a well ventilated area.
Keep the battery charged. Never allow the battery to become drained by unnecessary use
of the headlights or overcranking of the engine.
If the battery is dead or the electrical charge is low, re-charge it with a 12 volt battery
charger. Slow charge for at least 6 hrs.
If persistant problems with battery charge occur, before replacing the battery, ensure that
the engine charging system is functioning properly. Refer to the appropriate engine service
manual given in section GI of this service guide.
Battery Installation
1. Place the battery on to the battery frame. Install the battery retaining bracket and
fasten securely.
2. Fasten the main power cable to the positive battery terminal.
3. Reattach the ground cable to the negative terminal side of the battery.
4. Reinstall the firewall.
When installing the new bulb, avoid any contamination of the glass surface. Do not
touch the bulb with your fingers.
7. Secure the bulb inside the housing and route the power wire through the rubber
grommet at the bottom of the assembly.
8. Assemble the lens back to the housing. Ensure that the gasket is in place and not
damaged. Replace if necessary.
9. Install the screws to the headlamp trim.
10. Plug the power wire leading from the new bulb, into the vehicle wire harness. Re-
tape the connection with electrical tape.
11. Place the headlamp assembly back into the upper body, aligning the hole of the
headlamp mounting bracket, with the hole in the top of the upper body.
12. Secure with the bolt and nut. Re-connect the battery.
Although replacement bulbs are still available for this headlamp, the lens and housing
assembly is not. If the entire assembly needs replacing, an update kit is available to adapt
the newer style headlamp to an older vehicle.
Removing a Headlamp Bulb
ES-2 ES-3
3. Disconnect the bulb from the lens. Pry the 2 locking clips on the bulb apart while
pulling it from the wiring. Photo ES-3
Installing a Headlamp Bulb
When installing the new bulb, avoid any contamination of the glass surface. Do not
touch the bulb with your fingers.
4. Clip the new bulb assembly into the wire harness.
5. Reaching in through the engine access area, align the bulb assembly with the head-
lamp housing. Push in and turn 1/4 turn clockwise.
ES-4 ES-6
2. Install the bulb into the headlamp housing. Insert and turn 1/4 turn clockwise.
Photo ES-8
3. Snap the lens assembly into the rubber headlamp bezel.
ES-7 ES-8
Headlamp Removal ( Response, Bigfoot and Later Vanguard2 & Vanguard Models)
1. Locate the 4 screws securing the metal headlamp bezel to the upper body. Photo
ES-9
Some earlier Response models incorporated a plastic headlamp bezel that secured itself to
the upper body by 2 tabs to the inside of the headlamp opening. To remove this bezel,
reach in behind the headlamp and squeeze the 2 tabs to pop the bezel free of the upper
body. See your illustrated parts manual for these earlier vehicles.
2. Remove the 4 screws, unthreading them from the backing plate that holds the head-
lamp from the inside of the vehicle. Photo ES-10
ES-9 ES-10
3. Pull the headlamp from the vehicle and remove the bulb from the lens by turning 1/4
turn counter-clockwise and pulling straight out.
1. Install the headlamp from inside the vehicle, placing the inside backing plate over
the back of the lens and up against the upper body.
2. Place the outside bezel trim into position and thread in each screw aligning them
with each hole of the backing plate.
3. Secure all screws.
4. Reinstall the lamp bulb, inserting it into the lens and turning 1/4 turn clockwise.
5. Install the engine access cover.
ES-11 ES-12
5. Loosen off the bolts securing the brake cooling duct to the power pack frame and
slide the brake cooling duct towards the transmission as far as possible.
6. Locate the 2 bolts securing the starter motor to the mounting bracket and remove.
You will need to use a long extension and socket to reach the heads of the bolts.
Photo ES-13
7. Maneuver the starter motor and solenoid out from the mounting bracket, and turn
vertically to pull up between the engine and transmission. Photo ES-14
ES-13 ES-14
1. Locate and remove the the air filter and base assembly from the top of the engine.
Photo ES-16
2. Remove the fuel pump & fuel pump bracket. Photo ES-17
Ontario Drive & Gear Limited www.odg.com
PH.(519)- 662-2840 FAX (519)- 662-2421 ES-14
Argo Service Manual Electrical System
ES-16 ES-17
3. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Intake Duct, in section DE of this
service guide.
4. Remove the bolt securing the ground cable to the engine.
5. Remove the rest of the hardware securing the blower housing to the engine.
6. Remove the blower housing. Photo ES-18
7. Remove the flywheel nut and recoil cup. Photo ES-19
ES-18 ES-19
The flywheel is aligned with a key on the crankshaft. Be aware of the key and ensure
that it is reinstalled when the flywheel is assembled back to the engine.
The flywheel contains magnets used for the charging system of the engine. Place the
flywheel on a clean work surface with the magnets facing up to ensure no metalic
foreign objects are attracted to the magnet, and go undetected during reassembly.
ES-21 ES-22
Before installing the flywheel, ensure that the inside area containing the magnets is
clean and free of any foreign material or metalic filings. Severe damage can occur to
the flywheel and charging system if this is not observed.
When the flywheel is assembled to the crankshaft, use a small technicians mirror to
check the key and keyway alignment.
5. Install the recoil cup and mounting nut to the crankshaft. Torque the flywheel nut to
specifications. Refer to your engine service guide.
6. Install the blower housing.
7. Install the fuel pump mounting bracket and front engine hook.
8. Reinstall the fuel pump and reconnect the fuel line.
9. Attach the main ground cable to the engine.
10. Reassemble the air filter housing and filter back to the top of the engine.
11. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Intake Duct, in section DE of this
service guide.
Removing the Brake Cooling Fan (Response, Bigfoot)
Response and Bigfoot models come equipped with a brake cooling system. The cooling
fan is mounted to the upper body by 4 rivets, and air flow is routed via an intake hose to
a brake cooling duct at the brake discs.
Extreme care should be observed when drilling out rivets. Damage can occur to the
upper body if the drill slips and comes into contact with the plastic.
ES-24 ES-25
1. Install the mounting bracket to the fan. Place the fan into the vehicle orienting the
outlet towards the front of the vehicle. Photo ES-26
2. Align the holes in the bracket with the 4 holes in the upper body and insert the 4
rivets. Photo ES-27.
ES-26 ES-27
3. Pull each of the rivets with either a hand or air operated rivet gun.
4. Reconnect the wiring from engine harness to fan.
5. Connect the cooling hose to the fan and secure with the gear clamp.
6. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Intake Duct, in section DE of this
service guide.
vi. Remove the fan from the mounting base by drilling out the 4 rivets securing the
two components together.
vii. If replacing the fan, remove the band clamp from the fan. Install the band clamp to
the new fan.
On Conquests manufactured from CB17117:
i Disconnect the intake hose at the fan. The fan is located at the front right hand
corner of the vehicle mounted to the molded plastic intake duct. Photo ES-31
ii. Unplug the fan wiring.
iii. Through the separated upper and lower body, remove the 4 fasteners that secure the
fan to the intake duct. Photo ES-32
ES-31 ES-32
iv. Navigate the fan out from the vehicle between the separated upper & lower body.
v. If the fan is being replaced, the mounting bracket will need to be removed for instal-
lation to the new blower fan.
Installing the Brake Cooling Fan (Conquest models)
On Conquests manufactured prior to CB17117:
1. Rivet the fan to the mounting bracket assembly. Refer to the appropriate illustrated
parts manual for component structure and hardware.
2. Connect the wiring from the vehicle wire harness to the fan.
3. Install the fan back to the metal intake duct and secure with the 4 bolts and
lockwashers. Orient the fan with the outlet facing towards the front of the vehicle
and facing slightly downward.
4. Reconnect the intake hose to the fan and fasten with the gear clamp.
5. Remove the 2x4's used to space the upper and lower body apart and re-rivet the two
back together using the required body rivets and washers.
6. Slip the rubber bumper back on.
7. Replace the radiator overflow bracket and bottle to the front of the vehicle. Install
the lid and connect the overflow hose.
8. Install the engine access cover.
On Conquests manufactured from CB17117:
1. Fasten the blower fan to the molded plastic intake duct orienting the fan outlet fac-
ing down towards the bottom of the vehicle. See Photo ES-31 on previous page.
2. Reconnect the fan wiring
3. Reattach the brake cooling hose and secure with the gear clamp.
4. Remove the 2x4's used to space the upper and lower body apart and re-rivet the two
back together using the required body rivets and washers.
5. Slip the rubber bumper back on.
6. Install the engine access cover.
Models T, TB, HT, HTB FROM 1977 KB FROM 1981-86 K FROM1983 S FROM 1986 SB FROM 1987
Models T, TB, HT, HTB FROM 1977 KB FROM 1981-86 K FROM1983 S FROM 1986 SB FROM 1987
Argo Standard & Heavy Duty (Models V688-20,V888-20,V888-21 After T6460, TB8446, HTB8592 11/88
Argo I/C Model V888-23, V688-23 From NKB 8187, NK 6192 11/88
Argo Magnum Model V891-23 From NKB 10785, Models V891-27, V691-27 06/93
SECTION BR
Brake System
Table of Contents
General Instructions............................................................................. BR-3,4
Brake System Maintenance ................................................................. BR-5
Brake Pad Inspection (Hydraulic)....................................................... BR-6
Removing the Brake Pads (Hydraulic)................................................BR-6
Installing Brake Pads (Hydraulic)....................................................... BR-8
Hydraulic Brake Caliper Maintenance Schedule.............................. BR-9
Hydraulic Brake Caliper Removal...................................................... BR-10
Hydraulic Brake Caliper Disassembly................................................ BR-11
Hydraulic Brake Caliper Reassembly................................................. BR-12
Hydraulic Brake Caliper Installation..................................................BR-14
Removing the Master Cylinder............................................................ BR-15
Disassembling the Master Cylinder..................................................... BR-16
Master Cylinder Servicing & Inspection............................................ BR-17
Master Cylinder Reassembly................................................................BR-18
Master Cylinder Installation................................................................ BR-19
Bleeding the Hydraulic Brake System.................................................BR-20
Brake Fluid Inspection..........................................................................BR-21
Changing the Brake Fluid.................................................................... BR-22
Hydraulic Brake Plunger Pin Adjustment..........................................BR-23
Hydraulic Brake Plunger Pin Adjustment(Steering Bar Style)
Supplement Pages................................................................................. BR-8A
Holding Brake Adjustment (Hydraulic Brake System)..................... BR-25
Inspecting the Hydraulic Brake Hoses................................................ BR-26
Replacing the Hydraulic Brake Hoses.................................................BR-26
Mechanical Brake Maintenance Schedule(6x6 Vanguard Models)..BR-26
Mechanical Brake Caliper Removal....................................................BR-27
SECTION BR
Brake System
Table of Contents
Mechanical Brake Pad Inspection & Replacement............................BR-29
Replacing the Brake Pads (Mechanical)..............................................BR-29
Installing the Brake Pads (Mechanical)...............................................BR-30
Mechanical Brake Caliper Installation............................................... BR-31
Adjusting the Mechanical Brake Caliper............................................ BR-33
Steering Lever Adjustment (Mechanical)........................................... BR-34
Holding Brake Adjustment.................................................................. BR-34
Brake Disc Inspection............................................................................BR-35
Removing a Brake Disc.........................................................................BR-36
Installing the Brake Disc.......................................................................BR-39
Parking Brake Assembly (CE Kit Models Only)...............................BR-40
Brake Cooling System........................................................................... BR-46
Dissasembling the Steering Column/Brake Assembly
(Moto Cross Style) Supplement Pages................................................ BR-1A
(Parking/Emergency Brake System (Avenger, Frontier................... BR-12A
General Instructions
Always refer to the correct PARTS MANUAL in accordance with the specific model
and serial number indicated on the serial tag plate of your vehicle. This is essential
to locating and ordering the correct components that were used during that
particular manufacturing period when the ARGO was built. It is also very helpful
using the illustrations to clearly see and define the component being referred to. If
components are no longer listed in your Spare Parts Price List (Distributors and
Dealers Only), generally the superceded section will indicate which part(s) updates,
or replaces it. All parts manuals are available in PDF format on CD.
General Instructions
Hydraulic fluid can cause serious irritation to skin and eyes. In case of contact, flush
thoroughly with water and contact a doctor if eyes have been exposed.
Use only Dot 5 Silicon Brake Fluid in the hydraulic brake system. Use of other brake
fluids may damage components and could void warranty on the brake system. Never
allow dirt, water, used brake fluid or any other contaminants to enter the hydraulic
brake system. Also, never combine different types of brake fluids keeping in mind
they may be incompatible with each other.
Maintenance schedule
1. Every 100 hours of vehicle operation, perform the servicing procedure, Brake Pad
Inspection ( Mechanical).
2. Every 25 hours of vehicle operation, Perform the servicing procedure, Brake Pad
Inspection (hydraulic).
The intervals shown in this schedule are based on average operating conditions. Vehicles
which are subject to more severe use, wet or dusty conditions, will require more frequent
servicing.
Please refer to the appropriate illustrated parts manual for the vehicle being serviced.
The parts manual is identified with either the vehicle’s model number, serial number or
both written on the front cover. These parts manuals are availible on CD in PDF format. .
The hydraulic brake system is used on all models of ARGO vehicles with the exception of
the Vanguard 6x6.
To replace hydraulic brake pads (Gremica Calipers only)on models manufactured prior to
1996, remove the cotter pins securing the pads within the caliper and slip the brake pads
from the caliper towards the drivers compartment. This procedure for replacing pads
may be used proir to serial numbers CB12454, RB12473 & SN 8284. Gremica brake
caliper halves used in production during this earlier manufacturing period, were secured
together by two M10 bolts only, allowing the pads to be pulled from the calipers without
having to remove the entire caliper from the mounting bosses on the transmission housing
or cover.
Vehicles equipped with Knott brake calipers also allow for brake pad removal by
removing the 2 cotter pins securing the pads and pulling them straight up and out of the
caliper.
Vehicles produced from CB12454, RB12473 & SN 8284 (Grimeca brake calipers only)
utilize an additional two M8 bolts per caliper. This new setup restricts the pads from
being slipped out towards the drivers compartment. The caliper must be removed to slip
the pads out through the front of the caliper. The following procedure applies to these
later models.
NEVER attempt to align these with the engine running and in gear.
The left hand caliper requires the removal of the drive belt and driven clutch to access the
mounting bolts to the transmission. Refer to Removing the Driven Clutch in Section CS
of this service guide.
When removing the caliper from the transmission, take note of any shims that may have
been used between the caliper and transmission mounting boss. Earlier models may have
employed shims to correctly align the calipers with the brake discs. Ensure that these are
reinstalled when remounting the caliper.
When replacing worn or contaminated pads, replace both pads in the brake caliper
assembly even if both pads do not require replacing. Using one new and one old
brake pad in a caliper assembly may provide poor braking/steering performance.
Before installing the pads into the caliper, make sure that the brake caliper pistons are
pushed back into the caliper housing as far as possible. This will enure that the new pads
can be spread far enough apart from each other to accommodate the thickness of the
brake disc when the caliper is slipped back into position and remounted to the
transmission.
BR-4 BR-5
2. Remount the caliper to the transmission by aligning the access hole in the brake disc
with that of the threaded mounting boss on the transmission. Photo BR-5
LOCTITE the threads of the 2 hex head mounting bolts with blue LOCTITE 242,
and secure the caliper (with the 2 flat washers in place) to the transmission. Do not
forget to install any shims that may have initially been between the caliper and trans-
mission mounting bosses. Torque to specifications.
Inspect the calipers for the conditions listed in the chart below and then perform the
recommended servicing procedures.
4. Line up the hole provided in the brake disc, with the hex head mounting bolts that
secure the hydraulic brake caliper to the transmission housing. To do this you will
need to rotate the tires by hand until they are lined up. Remove the 2 fasteners and
flat washers. Slide the caliper from the disc. Photo BR-7
NEVER attempt to align these with the engine running and in gear.
The left hand caliper requires the removal of the drive belt and driven clutch to access the
mounting bolts at the transmission. Refer to Removing the Driven Clutch in Section CS
of this service guide.
When removing the caliper from the transmission, take note of any shims that may have
been used between the caliper and transmission mounting boss. Earlier models may have
employed shims to correctly align the calipers with the brake discs. Ensure that these are
reinstalled when remounting the caliper.
BR-6 BR-7
2. Work on a CLEAN dry surface. Locate and remove the 2 cotter pins securing the
pads in the caliper and remove the brake pads.
3. Remove the piston from each half by applying compressed air (Max. 20 psi or less),
to the hydraulic hose inlet. Place a rag in between the caliper to absorb the shock of
the piston when it pops from the caliper. Photo BR-8
4. Place the caliper into an aluminum jawed vise with the 4 hex head fasteners facing
up.
Always wear eye protection when using compressed air. Caliper parts could fly
apart, causing serious injury.
Depending on the manufacturing date of the vehicle being serviced, the caliper halves
may be secured together by either 2 or 4 mounting bolts. Vehicles manufactured prior to
S/N CB 12455, RB 12474 & SN 8285 utilize the 2 bolt configuration. The 4 bolt style is
fully exchangeable and replaces the 2 bolt pattern.
5. Remove the socket head bolts that secure the caliper halves together. Photo BR-9
6. Take the caliper assembly from the vise and separate the 2 halves. Photo
BR-10
7. Lift the piston seals and the “O” ring from the caliper halves and discard.
Photo BR-11
BR-8 BR-9
BR-10 BR-11
10. Wipe all components with a lint free cloth or use compressed air to dry.
11. Thoroughly inspect all the components. Replace any worn, cracked, or broken or
missing parts.
12. Inspect both piston chambers for any pitting, scratching, scarring or rust. Replace
pistons with new,or the entire caliper assembly if necessary.
2. Lubricate all component parts with fresh DOT 5 Silicon Brake Fluid
Do not allow brake fluid to contact your eyes, clothes, or painted surfaces. Brake
fluid is extremely corrosive and can cause severe personal injury. Wear protective
eye goggles, gloves and clothing. If brake fluid contacts your eyes, consult a
physician immediately.
When reassembling the caliper, work with clean hands, tools, and parts. Perform the
reassembly on a clean, neat surface. Dirt or contaminants on component parts will
cause a reduction in brake efficiency and may damage the brake components.
3. Place the caliper castings on a clean workbench so that the interior is fac-
ing up. Photo BR-13
4. Insert the rubber seals into each half of the caliper casting. Photo BR-14
Do not scratch or tear the seals during installation. Any damaged seal must be
replaced immediately.
6. Place the one half caliper into the aluminum jawed vise being careful not to damage
it by overtightening it. Locate the oil journal which requires the small “O” ring.
Place the “O” ring over the hole making sure that the flat edge of the ring is facing
down. Photo BR-15
7. Place the other half caliper to the one secured in the vise making sure that the oil
journal of the top half is aligned with the previously installed “O” ring in the lower
half. Photo BR-16
BR-13 BR-14
BR-15 BR-16
8. Reinstall the socket head bolts which hold the caliper assembly together. Use blue
LOCTITE on the threads of the fasteners. Torque the bolts to the specified torque.
Photo BR-17
9. Place the check ball and bleeding screw back into the threaded mount of the caliper
casting. Photo BR-18 Cap with the rubber plug.
10. Slide the brake pads into the calipers and secure with 2 new cotter pins.
BR-17 BR-18
Clean the master cylinder casting and caliper casting and fittings. This will prevent
dirt from contaminating the brake system. Contaminants in the brake fluid can
damage components or cause premature wear. This will result in a loss of braking/
steering effectiveness.
To rebuild a master cylinder, removal of the component is necessary to insure a clean and
thorough job.
1. Remove the covers from the master cylinders and empty the cylinders of their con-
tent. Photo BR-21 If you have access to a vacuum style hand pump, this works
well for sucking the fluid from the reservoirs. If this is not an option, disconnect
the brake hose from the caliper and allow the reservoir to drain through the hose into
a container. Pumping the steering levers speed up the draining process.
BR-21 BR-22
Be aware of the plunger pins and rubber boots attached to the master cylinders. Remove
these to a workbench to prevent them from dropping into the lower body of the vehicle. A
new rubber boot is supplied with the master cylinder O ring kit and must be replaced when
rebuilding a master cylinder.
Do not use a gripping tool to pull out the piston as this will scratch or damage the
surface. Use fingers only to pull out the piston. If this does not work, reinstall
gasket and cylinder cover and blow compressed air (Low Pressure 20 psi or less)
through the fluid inlet hole.
Models manufactured after May 25, 2000 from S/N CB17145, RB17120, BF11608
and SN11630 have a tapered spring which attaches to the end of the piston. Models
prior to this had a shorter spring which did not attach to the piston. The newer
spring is fully exchangeable with the older style but should be replaced as a set.
3. Slide the primary and secondary seals off the piston. Discard these old seals.
4. Clean all components with alcohol or a mild soap solution. Use compressed air to
blow out the master cylinder castings. This will free up any dirt or other contami-
nants you could not reach with the cloth.
1. Thoroughly inspect all components of the master cylinder assembly and replace any
worn, cracked or broken parts.
2. Inspect the condition of the piston. Replace the piston immediately if it is:
Scratched
Pitted
rusted
scored in any way
2(a) Inspect the condition of the master cylinder housing. Replace immediately
if:
3. Lubricate all component parts with clean fresh Dot 5 Silicon Brake Fluid.
4. Before assembly, a new rubber boot and new primary and secondary seals are re-
quired. These are available in the replacement assembly Master Cylinder O- Ring
Kit
1. Slide the new primary and secondary seals on to the piston. Orient as in
Photo BR-25
2. Install the compression spring on to the piston. Make sure the small end of the
spring is mated to the piston. Photo BR-26
Models manufactured prior to May 25, 2000 have a shorter non-tapered spring which
need only be inserted into the master cylinder followed by the piston. The older and newer
style spring are fully exchangeable if necessary, but should be changed as a set. Vehicles
manufactured from S/N CB17145, RB17120, BF11608 & SN11630 will have the newer
spring style.
3. Install the piston into the piston bore. Slide the end with the primary seal in first.
Photo BR-27
BR-26 BR-27
Conquest models require the rear mounting bolt to also secure the igniter box at the
master cylinder.
2. Reinstall the nylon locknuts and tighten to anchor the master cylinders into position.
3. Reconnect the brake lines to the master cylinders. Always use new copper washer
seals on the banjo bolts. Torque to specifications.
4. Refill the master cylinders using DOT 5 brake fluid. Use of other types of brake
fluids or combining different types of brake fluids, may result in damage to steering/
braking components or seriously impair the way in which the vehicle performs.
5. Perform the servicing procedure, Bleeding the Hydraulic Brake System below.
1. Remove the rubber plug from the bleed screw at the brake caliper.
2. With the bleed screw still tight, purge any air from the system by pumping the steer-
ing handles slowly. When there are no longer visible signs of air bubbles observed
in the master cylinder, replenish it with more fluid to bring it back up to the top of
the window.
.
3. Next, apply steady pressure to the steering lever until the brake is fully engaged.
Hold the steering lever in this position and slowly loosen the caliper bleeding screw
1/4 turn. Open the bleed screw only enough to slowly release fluid out of the screw.
If there is any air still present in the system, it will be noticeable through this screw
with a slight “spitting” of fluid. Re-tighten the screw and once again pump the
brake system slowly a few more times. Apply pressure to the steering lever again
and hold. Open the bleed screw gradually until fluid slowly releases. Repeat this
procedure until the fluid coming from the bleed screw is a full stream with no vis-
ible signs of air in the system.
Catch any purged fluid at the caliper bleed screw with a rag or small container of some
sort.
4. Replenish the master cylinder to the top of the viewing window and secure the cover
and rubber gasket.
5. Clean any stray brake fluid that might have found its way on to the brake disc with
brake cleaner. Brake fluid on the brake disc can seriously affect braking capabilities
of the ARGO vehicle.
8. Pump the steering levers a few times to build up proper pressure and locate the pads
in the caliper assembly.
Do not allow brake fluid to contact your eyes, clothes, or painted surfaces. Brake
fluid is extremely corrosive and can cause severe personal injury. Wear protective
eye goggles, gloves and clothing. If brake fluid contacts your eyes, consult a
physician immediately.
Regular inspection of the brake fluid is very important. Low fluid levels can cause a
reduction or loss in braking ability; high fluid levels, or brake fluid contaminated
with oil, dirt, or water, can damage the seals or other component parts of the
hydraulic brake system.
Use only Dot 5 silicon brake fluid. Other brake fluids may not be compatible with
ARGO brake components and operating temperatures.
1. Locate the master cylinder in the engine compartment. It is located at the top of the
transmission.
To access the master cylinder cover, remove the hood assembly. You can then remove
the cover screws with a screwdriver
2. Clean the casing and lid of the master cylinder. This will prevent dirt or other con-
taminants from entering the reservoir.
3. Using a screwdriver, unfasten the cover screws and remove the cylinder cover and
gasket.
Clean the master cylinder casing and fittings. This will prevent dirt from
contaminating the brake system. Contaminants in the brake fluid can damage
components or cause premature wear to them. This will result in a loss of braking
effectiveness
1. To drain and replenish the brake system you will need to remove the firewall of the
vehicle. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Firewall for your particu-
lar model in Section VB of this service guide.
2. Remove the engine hood to access the master cylinders. Remove both covers using
the appropriate screwdriver.
3. Locate the bleed screw on the hydraulic brake caliper.Slowly loosen the brake
caliper bleed screw and gently pump the steering lever to purge the brake fluid from
the system. Catch the used brake fluid at the bleed screw with a container for dis-
posal later.
4. Continue to pump the fluid from the system while monitoring the master cylinder.
Repeatedly replenish the master cylinder while pumping the old fluid from the sys-
tem.
5. When the old fluid at the rear bleed screw appears to be replaced by fresh fluid,
perform the servicing procedure, Bleeding the Hydraulic Brake System.
6. Add brake fluid to the master cylinder as necessary, to a level just above the view-
ing window, and secure the cover.
IMPORTANT
It is critical that the master cylinder pistons are adjusted properly when the steering
levers are at the dash block position. Overheating of the brake system could occur
due to the piston being adjusted too far in. This could cause a drag on the system
and a possible brake lockup. On the other hand, the piston being adjusted too far
out could affect the braking ability of the vehicle by causing it to be less aggressive,
giving it poor turning capabilities. This adjustment will also set both handle bars at
an even distance from the dash block when both are applied.
A 1/4" clearance should be set between the steering levers and the dash block before
engagement of the plunger pins. This will provide some leeway if the handle bars are
pulled back slightly while driving without the intention of applying them (riding the
brakes).
2. Loosen the 1 or 2 set screws securing the collar to the plunger pin. Photo BR-29
This will free the collar to slide along the pin.
BR-29 BR-30
3. Push the collar up tightly against the tab stop of the steering bracket assembly and
re-tighten set screw(s). Apply Blue 242 LOCTITE to the threads of the set screw.
The 1/4" clearance between the dash block and engagement of the plunger pin is
now set. Photo BR-31
4. Locate and loosen the jam nut on the adjustable plunger pin. Photo BR-32
BR-31 BR-32
8. Sit in the vehicle and pull back on both levers checking to make sure the levers have
the 1/4" clearance before engagement, and come back evenly.
The holding brake system has been factory adjusted to ensure proper braking effectiveness.
However, before the vehicle is used for the first time, and after every 25 hours of operation,
the adjustment of the holding brake must be inspected.
The use of an improperly adjusted holding brake is a serious hazard, and could lead
to vehicle damage or personal injury.
2. While holding the levers back, push each holding brake handle down until it rests
against the brake lever stop. Photo BR-34
3. Check the distance between the holding brake stop on each steering lever and the
holding brake adjusting screw.
4. If the distance is approximately 1/16" (1.6mm) the holding brake system is correctly
adjusted. Photo BR-35
5. If not, turn the holding brake adjuster screw in the direction required for correct
distance.
If the holding brake system is too tight, excessive pressure in the brake system will
damage the seals.
BR-34 BR-35
2. Perform the servicing procedure, Replacing the Hydraulic Brake Hoses, below
Replacing the Hydraulic Brake Hoses
Clean the master cylinder casing and the caliper casting and fittings. This will
prevent dirt from contaminating the brake system. Contaminants in the brake fluid
can damage components or cause a loss in braking or steering effectiveness.
1. Remove cover and gasket seal from the master cylinder reservoir.
2. Disconnect the hose from the caliper. Place a catch tray under the free end of the
hydraulic hose and allow the hose and master cylinder reservoir to drain.
5. Reconnect the hydraulic hose to the master cylinder. Make sure both copper washer
seals have been replaced with new ones at the banjo bolts.
For a thorough examination of the brake pads, perform the servicing procedure,
Mechanical Brake Pad Inspection & Replacement.
4. Remove all locknuts and jam nuts from the 2 bolts that secure the two halves of the
mechanical calipers together at the power pack frame. Photo BR-38
5. Remove the brake cam assembly and flat washer. Photo BR-39
6 Remove both mounting bolts and separate the calipers from the power pack frame.
Collect the 2 compression springs that are used in each side of the caliper. Photo
BR-40
BR-37 BR-38
BR-39 BR-40
IMPORTANT
The cam side half caliper houses 2 small steel bearing balls . These are installed to 2
bearing seats within the casting. These steel balls should be checked for any wear or
deformity. Also, check the inside of the brake cam where it comes into contact with
these steel ball bearings. If there is any wear noticed such as tracking grooves,
replace the brake cam. Any wear grooves in the cam will affect the way in which the
calipers return to the normal position when they are released by the driver. Usually
they will not return and tend to stick in the brake on position.
Inspect the condition of the brake pads. Replace the pads when:
When replacing worn or contaminated brake pads, replace both pads in the brake
caliper assembly even if both pads do not require replacing. Using one new and one
old brake pad in a caliper assembly may provide poor braking and steering
performance.
Take care in drilling out old pop rivets. Damage to the caliper casting could occur,
requiring a more expensive caliper replacement.
1. Place the new brake pad on to the caliper. Be sure that the counter-sunk side is
facing up. Photo BR-44
2. Using a pop riveting tool, fasten the brake pad to the caliper. Photo BR-45
The tip of the riveting tool may need to be modified to allow it to fit into the counter bored
hole in the pad. This will ensure that the head of the rivet is tight against the pad when it
is pulled.
BR-44 BR-45
IMPORTANT
Make sure that the brake pad is completely flat to the caliper when pulling the rivets
and that there is no obstruction between the caliper and the back side of the pad.
BR-46 BR-47
BR-48 BR-49
BR-51 BR-52
BR-56
BR-55
2. Back off the locking jam nut at the cam and apply a small amount of blue 242
LOCTITE to the threads between the jam nut and main adjustment nut.
3. Snug the locking jam nut up against main adjustment locknut. Photo BR-58
4. Back off the nut on the rear bolt to free it up just enough to allow it to be turned by
hand. Photo BR-59
5. Slowly back off the front jam nut and adjustment nut until movement is felt in the
caliper.
6. Place a .010 feeler gauge between the left hand brake caliper and the brake disc
while pushing the right caliper half against the brake disc. Photo BR-60
BR-57 BR-58
BR-59 BR-60
10. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Firewall in section VB.
Steering Lever Adjustment
Adjust the steering levers when:
steering levers travel more than 18 cm (7") from the dash to apply the brakes;
the levers are not parallel when the brakes are applied; or
the brake adjustment nuts have been removed during the removal of the firewall.
2. While holding the lever, lift the spring loaded brake lever until it contacts the pin in
the steering lever.
3. Release the steering lever, allowing the holding brake lever to lock the left brake on.
4. If the steering lever grip is approximately 18 cm (7") from the dash, the holding
brake system is correctly adjusted.
5. If the distance from the dash is greater, refer to Steering Lever Adjustment to
properly set the left lever.
IMPORTANT
Badly worn brake pads, or abnormal use of the vehicle, can cause serious damage to
the brake discs. Inspect the brake discs for the condition listed in the chart below,
and perform the recommended servicing procedures.
IMPORTANT
Always refer to the PARTS MANUAL that corresponds to the specific model and
serial number indicated on the serial tag plate of your vehicle. This is essential to
locating and ordering the correct components that were used during that particular
manufacturing period. It is also very helpful using the illustrations to clearly see and
define the component being referred to. If components are no longer listed in your
Spare Parts Price List (Distributors and Dealers Only) generally the superceded
section will indicate which part(s) will update or replace it. All parts manuals are
available in PDF format on CD.
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Brake System Argo Service Manual
When servicing a left side brake disc, you will need to remove the driven clutch from the
transmission. Refer to Removing the Driven Clutch in section CS of this service guide.
There is no need to disconnect the hydraulic brake fluid lines from the caliper
5. Rotate the tires to locate the connecting link of the idler chain.
6. Remove the connecting link clip and pull the connecting link from the
chain.
7. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Idler Chain in section WA
8. Remove the bolt, lock washer and flat washer securing the brake disc to the output
shaft of the transmission.
6x6 Vanguards produced prior to S/N S7332 will have a spacer beneath the flat clamping
washer. This is slipped over the extended part of the output shaft that protrudes past the
end of the brake disc sprocket. The # 40-2x15 Brake discs manufactured from S/N S7332
have been unified in length with the #50-2x13 brake disc and no longer require this
spacer. These lengthened brake discs are fully exchangeable with the older style
6x6 vehicles manufactured between S/N S7332 & S7937 & prior to SN7929 use a
washer(s) in behind the flat clamping washer to "Lengthen" the output shaft and prevent
the 108-18 clamping washer from collapsing. Argos produced from S7937 & SN7929 no
longer require these washers because the output shaft dimension has been lengthened. If
an earlier vehicle which utilized these washers has had the transmission output shafts
replaced with new ones, these washers will no longer be required during reassembly.
If the ARGO is equipped with a brake cooling fan system, as is the case with all CB, RB,
BF & C vehicles, you will need to loosen and slide the brake shroud out of the way before
the brake disc can be slid off the output shaft.
9. On Conquest models, loosen the two 1/4"-20x1" pan head screws securing the brake
cooling duct to the power pack frame. Photo BR-65 Slide the ducting clear of the
brake disc. On Bigfoot & Response Models, loosen off the gear clamp that secures
the brake cooling duct to the overhead bracket of the brake discs. Photo BR-66
BR-65
BR-66
• If removing the right-hand brake disc, perform the servicing procedure, Battery
Removal in Section ES of this service guide
• Install a wheel puller on the brake disc and remove it from the transmission output
shaft.
Vehicles manufactured prior to October 21, 1999 utilize keyways machined within the
brake disc. There are two 1/4" x 1/4" keys used on the keyed output shafts. Vehicles
produced from S/N's: S11188, SN11196, CB16459, RB16446 & BF11143, are splined.
These accommodate the newer style splined output shafts. These splined brake discs are
fully exchangeable with the keyed versions if desired, however this would also mean
replacing the output shaft as well. Keyed brake discs and outputs are still available.
Vehicles equipped with the brake cooling system will require the cooling duct to be moved
out of the way far enough to allow the brake disc on. Seat the brake disc firmly against
the shoulder of the output shaft.
iv. Re-position the cooling duct and and secure with the two 1/4"-20x1" phillip head
screws (CONQUEST MODELS) or retightening the gear clamp on the overhead
mounting bracket ( BIGFOOT & RESPONSE MODELS)
v. Apply blue LOCTITE 242 to the threads of the brake disc mounting bolt and install
it along with the lockwasher, clamping washer and any other spacers or washers that
were used previously. See NOTES on page BR-37.
On vehicles produced from S/N CB16459, RB16446, BF11143, S11188 &
SN11196 :
i Apply anti-seize compound to the spline of the output shafts.
IMPORTANT
A small number of vehicles used a shim washer in behind the brake disc. This shim
washer will need to be reinstalled to the output shaft before the brake disc is slipped
on. This is required to align the brake disc to the hydraulic caliper properly. Take
note of the transmission serial number to correctly identify these vehicles.
All 6 wheel hydraulic brake vehicles with serial numbers between BF11321 & BF11390.
All 8 wheel vehicles with serial numbers between RB16700 & CB16778.
iii. Re-position the cooling duct and and secure with the two 1/4"-20x1" phillip head
screws (CONQUEST MODELS) or retightening the gear clamp on the overhead
mounting bracket ( BIGFOOT & RESPONSE MODELS)
iv. Apply blue LOCTITE 242 to the threads of the brake disc mounting bolt and install
it along with the lockwasher and clamping washer.
2. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Idler Chains, in Section WA of this
service guide.
3. Perform the servicing procedure, Adjusting the Idler Chains, in Section WA of this
service guide.
6. Apply the brake at the steering lever to each brake disc, and torque each bolt to the
specified torque.
Parking Brake
Some vehicles may have an additional parking brake system installed. The following
illustrates and describes the assembly and components of the parking brake setup.
2. Assemble the bracket assembly to the right hand side of the power pack frame and
secure with 2 nylon locknuts. Photo BR-70
BR-69 BR-70
BR-71 BR-72
3. Assemble the second caliper bracket to the left side of the power pack frame using 2
of the shorter mounting bolts and 2 short spacers. The bracket should be oriented
as the right side, with the top hole closest to the back edge of the bracket facing the
assembler. Secure with 2 more locknuts. Photo’s 71 & 72
5. Lay out all mechanical brake components for assembly. Photo BR-74
BR-73 BR-74
7. Locate the parking brake lever assembly and insert it at the back of, and in between
the power pack frame channel. Slip the left parking brake shaft assembly through
the parking brake lever. Photo BR-75
8. Locate and install the right hand side parking brake shaft through the parking brake
lever from the opposite side as in Photo BR-76
BR-75 BR-76
9. Install 4 roll pins to secure both shafts to the parking brake lever.
Photo’s BR-77 & 78
BR-77 BR-78
BR-80 BR-81
Do not install the bearing balls to the single caliper with the notched area.
13. Assemble the ball joint to the brake cam as shown in Photo BR-81. Secure it with a
nylon locknut. Orient the cam as illustrated in the photo.
14. Install 2 long and 2 short bolts to the two calipers without the steel balls. The one
caliper is also the one that is notched. Photo BR-82
BR-82 BR-83
18. Repeat this procedure for the right hand side caliper assembly. The inner caliper on
the right hand side assembly is not notched.
19. Thread the emergency/parking brake rods into each of the ball joints at the cam until
there is approximately ½” inch of thread exposed. Attach the other end of the rod
to the shaft assemblies and secure with a cotter pin. Photo BR-86
BR-85 BR-86
22. Loosen the locknut of the caliper at the cam until the caliper is released from the
brake disc. There should now be movement in the caliper. Recheck the rear adjust-
ment bolt to see if it still turns by hand. If not, adjust as necessary until it does.
BR-89 BR-90
25. Locate the brake cooling duct and insert a spacer into the 2 mounting holes on each
side of the duct. Photo BR-91
26. Mount the brake cooling duct to the top of the transmission using a bolt, flat
washer and nylon locknut. Fasten this to the hole in the driven clutch guard.
Photo BR-92 & 93
BR-91 BR-92
BR-93 BR-94
27. Mount the other side of the brake cooling duct using a bolt, lock washer and flat
washer. Attach this end using the same bolt that secures the steering bracket to the
rear threaded transmission boss. Photo BR-94
IMPORTANT
Before securing the brake cooling duct, be sure that the engine wire harness plug is
accessible above the ducting. (Conquest Models Only) Photo BR-95
BR-95
SECTION BR
Supplement Pages
ST-1 ST-2
4. Remove the Nylon Locknut and Flat Washer from the top of the Lower Handle Bar
Clamp. Discard the nylon locknut. Photo ST-2
IMPORTANT
Be aware of the small key(s) installed into
the steering shaft and ensure they are
installed when reassembling the steering
system.
ST-3
6. Disconnect the hand brake lever cable
at the steering arms.
7. Apply pressure to the left hand side plunger pin by pushing on the steering arm
with the palm of your hand and insert a shim between the locking collar and the
welded tab stop. Photo ST 4 Repeat on the right hand side master cylinder. Follow-
ing this procedure will ensure that there is no interference between the plunger pins
and steering arms, when sliding the shaft from the steering column.
ST-4 ST-5
IMPORTANT
Be aware of the 108-08 Flat Washer Spacers used between the Steering Column
Frame Assembly and the transmission mounting bosses.
ST-6 ST-7
ST-8 ST-9
ii. Slip the first Steering Arm on to the Steering Shaft, followed by the Retaining ring,
seating it to the groove on the shaft. Install the second Steering arm. Orient them as
illustrated in Photo ST-10
iii. Install the 2nd Spring Pin, followed by a centering spring. Install the 3rd Spring Pin,
followed by a 2nd centering spring and 4th Spring Pin. Photo ST-11 & 12
Please observe the orientation of the free end of the springs. Each is pointing in the same
direction as the steering arms. Photo ST-13
ST-10 ST-11
iii. Next, Install a Retaining Ring to the machined groove on the Steering Shaft. This
retaining ring will be located between the 2 steering arms.
iv. Install the second steering arm and last spring pin. Photo ST-15. Orient as in Photo
ST-16
ST-15 ST-16
9. Apply some axle grease to the length of the Steering Shaft, Photo ST-17, and insert
it from the bottom up, into the Steering Column Assembly with the small keyway
facing towards you. Photo ST-18
ST-17 ST-18
IMPORTANT
Remember to reinstall the 108-08 Flat Washers between the steering column frame
assembly plate and transmission mounting bosses. Refer to your illustrated parts
manual to review their location if necessary.
10. Place the key to the end of the Steering Shaft. Photo ST-19 Vehicles manufactured
from serial numbers N14990, V23535, R23560, A15022 utilize 2 keyways and 2
keys.
11. Align the keyway(s) of the Lower Handle Bar Clamp with that of the previously
installed key(s) and assemble to the Steering Shaft. Photo ST-20 & 21
ST-19 ST-20
ST-21 ST-22
16. Reattach the hand brake lever Cable across the two brake Steering Arms.
1. Loosen the set screw securing the collar to the plunger pin. Photo BR-1 This will
free the collar to slide along the pin.
BR-1 BR-2
3. Locate the cable length adjustment for the hand brake lever near the steering arm
and thread in to slacken the brake cable across the steering arms. Photo BR-2
Please note this step is only required on earlier models manufactured up to
serial number V22440 Photo BR-2
BR-3
IMPORTANT
Both left and right steering arms should be pulled back to their rear most limit
before the plunger pin adjustment is made. On earlier models you should use both
hands to pull back on each arm to ensure they are back in the rear most position.
Photo BR-3 Later models utilize a double spring behind the plunger in the master
cylinder which will provide plenty of spring tension to push the steering arms back
fully.
Setting Plunger Pin Adjustment
BR-4
1. Sitting in the vehicle driver's seat, en-
sure sure that the steering handle bar is
parallel with the dash. Plunger pins
should be threaded so they are in con-
tact at the back with the steering arms.
Place the collar tightly up against the
welded tab stop and secure the set
screws with blue LOCTITE
2. Thread the plunger pins until the master cylinder plunger piston is flush with the
casting of the master cylinder. Photo BR-4 Re-tighten all plunger pin jam nuts.
Recheck that steering handle bar is parallel with dash and repeat procedure if neces-
sary.
IMPORTANT
If you have been servicing the brake system, add fresh clean DOT 5 brake fluid and
rebleed the brakes, purging all air from the brake system. Reinstall the master
cylinder covers. When complete, apply steering input to both sides to " pump up the
brakes". Recheck plunger setting and adjust as necessary.
IMPORTANT
Ensure the tab stops that the collars come into contact with are not bent in any way.
This will affect how the plunger pin sits when the opposite brake is applied. Any
deformity in the tab could cause the plunger pin to become misaligned with it's own
steering arm during the application of the opposite brake.
7. Re-adjust the hand brake lever cable until any slack has been removed between the
two steering arms and is on the verge of engaging the brakes. Tighten the brake
cable jam nut.
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Brake/Steering System Argo Service Manual
8. Re-check the brake plunger piston to ensure it is still flush to the casting and fine
adjust if necessary. Install the rubber boot.
Steering Bar Centering Adjustment (Early Model Avengers With Handle Bar
Centering Springs Only)
In some circumstances it may be necessary to adjust the way in which the steering handle
bar returns parallel to the dash in the centred position
1. Ensure that the steering handle bar rests parallel to the dash in the non-braking posi-
tion when released from a right or left turn position. Photo BR-5
If the steering handle bar does not centre parallel to the dash when released, it may be
necessary to adjust this. This may be achieved by manually bending the end of the return
springs where they are inserted into the welded retaining bracket on the steering column
frame assembly. Depending on the direction of the bend it will either increase the tension
or reduce it when the spring end is inserted back into the bracket. Photo BR- 6 & 7
Before making the spring adjustment, thread the plunger pins together to make sure that
they are not coming into contact with the steering arms and will in no way affect the way
in which the steering handle bar returns to the centred position.
BR-5 BR-6
BR-7
2. Re-hook the springs and test. Adjust either upper, lower or both springs as necessary
until the desired outcome is achieved.
Detailed information on standard workshop and safety procedures, and general instal-
lation practices is not included in these instructions, which have been prepared to
assist qualified and competent personnel. ODG assumes no responsibility or liability
for PERSONAL INJURY or VEHICLE DAMAGE which results from any procedure
performed, including those procedures outlined in these instructions. Before per-
forming an installation operation, an individual must have determined to his/her satis-
faction that personal injury or vehicle damage will not result from the installation pro-
cedure, working environment or tools selected.
2. Locate the castle nut at the brake cam lever and remove the
cotter pin and castle nut. Figure 2.
3. Using both hands, remove the brake lever assembly from 7. Locate the Live Side Brake Housing and turn upside down
the Brake Housing - Live Side and disconnect spring. Fig- to remove 2nd brake pad from the housing cavity. Please
ure 3. note that there is also a washer placed beneath the brake
pad.
10. Locate the live side brake housing and slip the shim washer
into the cavity first (Figure 8), before installing the brake
pad.
11. Install the second brake pad to the top of the previously
installed shim.
Figure 6 - Pad Removed. Mounting bolts for both calipers are always inserted facing
to the left with the head of the mounting bolt on the right
8. Lay out both Dead Side and Live Side Brake housings with hand side of the caliper. Refer to Figures A & B for correct
new brake pads. Figure 7. orientation of mounting bolts as well as washer & shim loca-
tions.
12. Install the live side housing to the inside of the brake
disc. Insert (2) two mounting bolts with spacers to the
head of each bolt. Place a thin washer (to each bolt) on
the inside of the mounting bracket. Figure 9.
15. Install (2) more spacers to the ends of the mounting bolts.
Figure 12.
16. Secure with the nylon locknuts and torque caliper assem-
bly to 215in. lbs. (24Nm) Figure 13.
13. Install the shim plate over the (2) two mounting bolts.
Figure 10.
Figure 12 - Spacers.
17. Install the compression spring to the stud of the live side
housing. Figure 14. Figure 16 - Spring Attached.
18. Install the (2) dowel pins to the cavities of the live side 20. Install the lever to the stud of the live side housing.
housing (rounded side facing out). Figure 15. Figure 17.
The hand brake lever should be adjusted such that when pulled
up firmly it is capable of holding the vehicle from rolling on a
grade. It should also ensure a good braking response when
applied to stop the vehicle during normal operation.
Figure 15 - Dowel Pins.
5. Slowly hand tighten the castle nut until the feeler gauge
(or piece of paper), becomes snug between the pad and
brake disc.
6. Back off the castle just enough for a new cotter pin to be
installed. The feeler gauge (or piece of paper), should pull
out at this point with just the slightest bit of resistance.
SECTION CS
Clutch System
Table of Contents
General Instructions
At idle the belt should rest flush or a little beyond the edge of the driven clutch on
the transmission. At top no load speed the belt should run near or to the top of the
driver clutch.
Worn or dirty clutch components, or a worn drive belt will make the ARGO
unreliable and unsafe to operate.
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Argo Service Manual Clutch System
Maintenance Information
Drive Belt
Maintenance Schedule-Inspect every 25 hours
Do not attempt to service any part of the torque converter system while the engine is
running. Shut the engine off and disconnect the battery before servicing.
Drive belt tension and clutch alignment are set at the time of vehicle production. No
further adjustment is required.
3 Inspect the condition of the drive belt over it’s full length.
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Replace the drive belt if:
Check the condition of the belt in the table below and perform the necessary servicing
procedure.
If this procedure is not carried out as described, the edge of the fixed face may cut or
damage the drive belt.
the clutch plates have tracking grooves caused by drive belt action
the clutch plates are bent or cracked
the weight blocks are damaged or missing
4. Remove the fastener securing the clutch to the PTO of the engine.
i. Locate and loosen out the FHSC M10x1.5x100 fastener using an allen head socket.
This fastener’s bevelled head sits flush to the end of the fixed faced pulley shaft. This
is due to the countersink in the end of the shaft . There is no lockwasher, only blue
242 LOCTITE used to secure it in place.(Threaded Bushing Spring Cover)
The above Conquest clutches or their components in this serial number range, are no
longer available. If any clutch or component(s) of the above clutches need replacing, it
must be replaced with the newer style 127-71 driver clutch assembly.
i. Locate and loosen out the SHCS M10x1.5x90mm fastener using an allen head
socket. This fastener installed along with a lockwasher, sits below the end of the
fixed faced pulley’s shaft. This is due to the counterbore in the end of the shaft.
On all RB, BF, SN, S, R, N & B Briggs and Stratton V Twin Models:
i. Locate and loosen out the HHCS 3/8-24x4.5 bolt and lockwasher from the PTO
shaft of the engine.
5. Slide the driver clutch off the PTO of the engine. (See note following page)
The driver clutch must be slid from the PTO with the mounting bolt hardware within the
clutch. The mounting bolt is too long to remove first.
The driver clutch may contact the lower body first before completely being free of the
PTO, however the lower body will give enough in that area to free the clutch.
2. Remove the locknut by unthreading it from the fixed face shaft. Photo CS-4
CS-3 CS-4
This cap is under spring tension and will fly apart if precautions are not taken to
hold it down while it is unthreaded from the moveable face. Be sure to always wear
eye protection when servicing the clutches, or any other vehicle component for that
matter, with the potential of flying parts.
7. Remove the spring. Photo CS-7
CS-6 CS-7
8. Remove the retaining ring and any spacer(s) that may be present. Photo CS-8
9. Remove the spring guide plate. Photo CS-9
CS-8 CS-9
10. Remove the second retaining ring and any shim(s) that may be present.
Photo CS-10 (Response, Bigfoot, Vanguard2 and Vanguard models only).
Conquest clutches utilize a machined shoulder eliminating this retaining ring
application.
CS-10 CS-11
12. Wash clutch components in a clean varsol bath to eliminate accumulated dirt and
grease build up, and perform the servicing procedure, Inspecting the Driver
Clutch, in this section of the service guide
Disassembling the Driver Clutch (Cap Screw Spring Cover)
On vehicles manufactured from serial numbers CB14236, RB14121, BF9347,
SN9551, S9596 and all R, B, N, C & A Models(Cap Screw Spring Cap)
1. Remove the nut and flat washer securing the cap to the fixed face pulley.
Photo CS-12
2. Lift the cap to expose the blocks and weights and remove all three. Photo
CS-13
CS-12 CS-13
3. Remove the 3 socket head cap screws securing the spring cover to the moveable face
pulley. Photo CS-14 Be aware of the small locking style flat washers that are
installed with each cap screw. Be sure these are reinstalled during assembly.
IMPORTANT
The cap screws should be loosened a little at a time in an alternating pattern. This
will ensure that the cap will not bind when coming off under spring tension. SEE
WARNING FOLLOWING PAGE
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This cap is under spring tension and will fly apart if precautions are not taken to
hold it down while the cap screws are removed. Be sure to always wear eye
protection when servicing the clutches, or any other vehicle component for that
matter, with the potential of flying parts.
CS-14 CS-15
Clutches prior to the above serial numbered vehicles do not utilize this spring ring.
6. Slip the spring guide washer from the shaft. Photo CS-17
CS-16 CS-17
7. On all RB, BF, SN, S, R, N & B Models,(Briggs & Stratton), remove the lower
retaining ring from the fixed pulley shaft. Photo CS-18
All CB, C & A Models (Conquest) driver clutches have a machined shoulder on the shaft
of the fixed half pulley. This eliminates the need for a retaining ring at this location.
CS-18 CS-19
9. Wash clutch components in a clean varsol bath to eliminate accumulated dirt and
grease build up.
10. Perform the servicing procedure, Driver Clutch Inspection, in this section of the
service guide.
CS-21 CS-00
CS-22
3. Install the lower retaining ring to the fixed shaft along with any shim(s) to the top of
the retaining ring. Photo CS-22 (Response, Bigfoot & Vanguard clutches only)
4. Place the spring guide washer on next. Photo CS-23
5. Install the second retaining ring to the fixed face shaft along with any shim(s) that
may have been installed before.. Photo CS-24
CS-23 CS-24
CS-25 CS-26
Once this measurement is set, you may need to turn the threaded cap in either direction to
align the machined keyway in the cap with the set screw in the moveable face.
9. Apply red 271 LOCTITE to the thread of the set screw and tighten. Photo CS-28
CS-27 CS-28
10. Place the blocks and weights into the moveable face and orient as shown in
Photo CS-29
11. Install the clutch cover over the weights and blocks making sure that the blocks are
aligned with the guides riveted into the cap. Photo CS-30
CS-29 CS-30
1. Place the fixed face on a clean work surface with the shaft facing up. Photo CS-32
2. Slip the moveable face on to the shaft of the fixed face pulley and install the retain-
ing ring. (This retaining ring is used only in clutches installed on RB, BF, SN, B, N,
R & S model ARGOS) Photo CS-33 See Note Below.
CS-32 CS-33
This retaining ring is not used in clutches manufactured for the Conquest vehicle.
Conquest driver clutches have a machined shoulder on the shaft of the fixed face,
eliminating the need for this retaining ring.
This spring ring is only installed on vehicles manufactured from serial numbers CB17506,
RB17610, BF12007, SN12147, S12150 and all R, B, N, C & A models. Clutches prior to
the above serial numbered vehicles do not utilize this spring ring.
CS-34 CS-35
5. Set the spring to the top of the spring guide. Photo CS-36
6. Install the spring cap and fasten with the 3 cap screws. Place the clutch assembly
into an arbor press to assist in compressing the spring. Partially compress the spring
while at the same time raising the moveable face upwards. Be sure each cap screw is
started and tightened down evenly. Torque to specifications.
Photo CS-037
IMPORTANT
Each cap screw should have a locking style flat washer
CS-36 CS-37
CS-38 CS-39
8. Install the cap over the weights and blocks making sure that the blocks are aligned
with the guides riveted into the cap. Photo CS-40
9. Before installing and tightening the flat washer and nut, be certain that hexagon
shaped hole in the cap is mated to the one at the base of the threaded shaft. Photo
CS-41, 42 & 43
10. Install the nut and torque to specifications.
CS-40 CS-41
CS-43
CS-42
3. Install the mounting hardware into the driver clutch before attempting to slip the
clutch on to the PTO of the engine. The hardware cannot be installed after the clutch
has been slipped into place.
Refer to page CS-6 in reference to the hardware used for the particular model and year of
vehicle being serviced.
4. Align the keyway of the driven clutch with that of the previously installed key on
the PTO, and slip the clutch on and up to the machined shoulder.
In some cases the lower body may have to be pushed out a little to allow the clutch room
to slip on to the PTO shaft.
IMPORTANT
The driver clutch should slip on and up to the shoulder by hand. There should not
be any reason to use a mallet to install the clutch.
Do not attempt to lubricate the driven clutch while the engine is running.
Do NOT spray lubricant onto the drive belt, brake disc or clutch faces. Allow the
lubricant to dry before using the vehicle. If the lubricant is not dry, use of the vehicle will
attract dirt and cause damage to the clutch components.
A complete service of the clutch units is required after every 250 hours of operation. To
perform this procedure, the clutches must be disassembled. Special tools are required to
disassemble the clutch units. Perform the servicing procedures, Driven or Driver Clutch
Removal & Disassembly in this section of the service guide.
Inspect the nylon sliders every 50 hours. The nylon sliders are mounted in the driven
clutch moveable pulley. When the clutch shifts, the cam moves on the nylon sliders.
Replace the nylon sliders before there is aluminum to aluminum contact between the cam
and the moveable pulley. Driven clutch disassembly is required to replace the nylon
sliders properly.
the clutch plates have tracking grooves caused by drive belt action
the clutch plates are cracked or bent
the nylon cam slider shoes are missing, melted, or worn through
the spring is broken or has come loose from the cam or moveable face
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4. Perform the servicing procedure, Driven Clutch Removal/Disassembly if the vehi-
cle:
is not changing speed smoothly
hesitates or sticks at one speed
lacks turning power
won’t move when the engine is accelerated in gear and brakes are disengaged
does not backshift under load
CS-45
CS-46
CS-47
CS-50 CS-50A
CS-53 CS-54
ii. Locate the # 10 marking on the moveable face. The cam spring will be inserted into
the hole across from this number. Photo 53A
iii. Insert the other end of the clutch spring into th e # 2 hole of the cam. Photo 54A
CS-53A CS-54A
CS-56
CS-55
Make sure that the retaining ring is seated to the groove. Failure to guarantee that it
is seated, could result in personal injury while handling the clutch or damage to the
vehicle once installed.
2. Install the key to the keyway of the input shaft. Photo CS-58
3. Align the keyway of the driven clutch with that of the previously installed key on
the input shaft and slip the clutch on and up to the machined shoulder.
4. Apply blue 242 LOCTITE to the threads of the fastener and install along with the
lockwasher and flat washer. Torque to specifications.
IMPORTANT
The driven clutch should slip on and up to the shoulder by hand. There should not
be any reason to use a mallet to install the clutch.
Be sure that all spacers previously used behind the driven clutch have been
reinstalled.
SECTION CS
Supplement Pages
CAUTION
CAUTION
Cap is under spring tension. Slowly unthread each fastener uniformly and a
little at a time until the cap is freed from the sliding flange.
4. Remove the cap, spring and spring guide washer. Photo 4
1 2
3 4
CS-9A
Clutch System Argo Service Manual
IMPOR
IMPORTTANT
There are (3) small lockwashers on these (3) fasteners. Ensure that they are still
in place before re-installing and torquing the spring cap back down.
5 6
7 8
4. Re-install the nylon block and weight assemblies into the sliding flange. Orient the
block with the rounded side up. Photo 9
5. Re-install the cap and secure with flat washer and nut. Torque to 100 FT. LBS.
NOTE
NOTE
135.6Nm
To properly torque, re-install the driver to the engine PTO and lock flywheel while using the torque
wrench to achieve proper torque.
9 10
CS-10A
Argo Service Manual Wheels, Axles & Chains
SECTION WA
Wheels, Axles & Chains
Table of Contents
General Instructions............................................................................. WA-3
Main Frame Information..................................................................... WA-4
Drive Chain Maintenance.................................................................... WA-4
Drive Chain Removal............................................................................WA-5
Drive Chain Inspection......................................................................... WA-6
Drive Chain Installation....................................................................... WA-7
Drive Chain Lubrication...................................................................... WA-9
Drive Chain Cleaning........................................................................... WA-9
Chain Tensioner Inspection (Upper and Lower Block Style)........... WA-10
Replacing the Slider Block (Upper and Lower Block Style).............WA-10
Chain Tensioner Inspection (Lower Block Semi-Self Adjust).......... WA-11
Replacing the Slider Block (Lower Block Semi-Self Adjust)............ WA-12
Disassembling the Chain Tensioner System....................................... WA-12
(Upper and Lower Block Style)
Disassembling the Chain Tensioner System.......................................WA-14
(Lower Block Semi-Self Adjust)
Assembling the Chain Tensioner System............................................WA-15
(Upper and Lower Block Style).
Assembling the Chain Tensioner System............................................WA-17
(Lower Block Semi-Self Adjust)
Idler Chain Maintenance......................................................................WA-19
Idler Chain Removal.............................................................................WA-20
Idler Chain Cleaning............................................................................ WA-21
Idler Chain Inspection..........................................................................WA-22
Idler Chain Installation........................................................................WA-23
Idler Chain Adjustment........................................................................WA-24
Removing the Idler Shaft (Conquest 8 & 6, Response, Bigfoot)...... WA-26
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SECTION WA
Wheels, Axles & Chains
Table of Contents
Removing the Idler Shaft (Vanguard & Vanguard2)........................ WA-29
Idler Shaft Inspection........................................................................... WA-31
Installing the Idler Shaft (Conquest 8& 6, Response,Bigfoot........... WA-33
Installing the Idler Shaft
(Avenger & Frontier Models) Supplement Pages..............................WA-32A
Installing the Idler Shaft (Vanguard & Vanguard2)......................... WA-38
Aligning the Idler Shaft (Vanguard & Vanguard2)........................... WA-39
Idler Shaft Bearing Lubrication.......................................................... WA-41
Removing an Axle (Without Bearing Extension)............................... WA-42
Removing the Axle Seals....................................................................... WA-43
Installing the Axle Seals........................................................................ WA-44
Installing an Axle (Without Bearing Extension)................................ WA-45
Keyed Front Axles (Earlier 6x6 Vanguards)...................................... WA-48
Outer Axle Flange & Bearing Lubrication......................................... WA-49
Inner Axle Bearing Lubrication.......................................................... WA-49
Removing an Axle (With Bearing Extension).....................................WA-50
Removing an Axle (With 810-91 Bearing Extension)
Supplement Pages..................................................................................WA50A
Installing an Axle (With Bearing Extension)...................................... WA-50
Installing an Axle (With 810-91 Bearing Extension)
Supplement Pages..................................................................................WA-52A
Removing the Bearing Extension.........................................................WA-52
Installing the Bearing Extension..........................................................WA-52
Removing the Inner Bearing................................................................ WA-53
Installing the Inner Bearing................................................................. WA-53
SECTION WA
Wheels, Axles & Chains
Table of Contents
Removing a Tire.....................................................................................WA-55
Wheel Disassembly................................................................................ WA-55
Tire Pressure...........................................................................................WA-55
TireInspection........................................................................................WA-56
Temporary and General Tire Repair...................................................WA-56
Wheel Reassembly................................................................................. WA-57
Valve Replacement................................................................................ WA-57
Wheel Installation................................................................................. WA-58
General Instructions
Improperly adjusted idler chains or poorly aligned idler shaft assemblies can result
in personal injury to the operator, extensive damage to brake disc sprockets and
idler shaft assemblies, and may lead to a costly and inconvenient break down off
road. Please ensure that the axle shafts are correctly aligned and that the drive
chains and chain tensioner system are in good working condition.
Improperly aligned axle shafts or incorrect chain tension can result in extensive
damage to drive chains and axle sprockets, and may cause wear on the vehicle frame
and floorpans. Please ensure that axle shafts are correctly aligned and that the drive
chains and chain tensioner system are in good working order.
Vanguard2 Frame from S/N SN7841 (1995) Front Tube Frame Design (not
Introduced Vanguard2 /Hydraulic Brakes threaded for bearing extensions)
Vanguard Frame from S/N S8131 (1995) Front Tube added to frame design but
Updated to Vanguard2 parts & frame but with not threaded for bearing extensions
mechanical brakes until S/N S8153
Vanguard2 Frame from S/N SN8138 (1995) Front Tube Threaded for Extensions
Vanguard & Vanguard2 from S/N SN10191 & Extended Wheel Base and New
S10178 (1998) Self Adjust Chain Tensioners
Conquest Frame from S/N CB16049 (1999) New Frame with revised axle spacing
and new Self Adjust Chain Tensioners
Response Frame from S/N RB16104 (1999) New frame with revised axle spacing
and new Self Adjust Chain Tensioners
1. Every 25 hours of vehicle operation perform the servicing procedure, Drive Chain
Inspection in this section of the service guide.
IMPORTANT WA-2
Any damage to the connecting link clip during removal requires that it be replaced
with a new one. Failure to do so could result in the drive chain becoming
disconnected and a costly repair.
WA-3
ii. Roll the vehicle until the connecting link on one of the chains is visible.
WA-8
WA-9
Use a pair of modified 7R Vice Grips to hold the ends of the chain together while inserting
the connecting link. Some drive chains have no slack, and replacement of the connecting
link is difficult without this tool. Modified Vice Grips can be ordered from Ontario Drive
& Gear (ARGO Part No. 658-08) or refer to Section GI under special tools for
modification information.
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3. Replace the outside plate and spring clip. The open end of the clip must face rear-
ward when it is on top of the chain. Photo WA-10
Earlier vehicles used an open ended spring clip. New models have a closed ended spring
clip. Face this rearward as well.
4. Remove the vice-grips and connect the chain tensioner spring between the upper and
lower chain tensioner arm. Photo WA-11
WA-10 WA-11
The chain tensioner system must be secured in it’s lowest position to the frame as
illustrated in DIAGRAM WA-5 on page WA-6.
2. Pull the ends of the chain together and insert the connecting link as shown in DIA-
GRAM WA-8 & 9. When connecting the RC50-2 chain, insert the inside plates
before tapping the connecting link through the second set of links. The rear single
RC60 chains have no inside plates.
3. Replace the outside plate and spring clip. The open end of the clip must face rear-
ward when it is on top of the chain. Newer style clips have a closed end.
Lubricate the idler chains after 10 hrs. of operation, and more frequently if the vehicle is
operated in dirty or wet conditions. Use an aerosol type of motorcycle chain lube such as
the type available through Ontario Drive & Gear. Part No. 125-86
When applying the chain lube, protect the brake disc with a rag or simple cardboard
shield. Do not allow chain lube to come into contact with the brake discs or brake pads.
Roll the vehicle so that all the idler chain is accessible for lubrication.
After every 100 hrs. of operation, remove all the drive chains from the vehicle and clean
them thoroughly in a suitable solvent, e.g clean varsol bath.
Never use gasoline as a cleaning solvent. Gasoline is extremely flammable and can
explode if ignited, causing serious personal injury.
Allow the chains to dry thoroughly, re-lubricate generously with ARGO Chain
Lube and reinstall.
4. If the wear groove on the slider block, as shown in DIAGRAM WA-13, is 1/4"
(6mm) or greater, replace the nylon
slider block.
Replacing the Slider Block
1. If the nylon slider block needs replac-
ing, pry the old block off of the shaft
with a pair of pliers.
2. Place the new slider block over the shaft
of the tensioner arm, and using a nee-
dle nose vise grip, squeeze the new
block until it snaps on to the shaft of WA-14
the tensioner arm. Photo WA-14
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Chain Tensioner Inspection (Later Style)
On 8x8 models manufactured from serial numbers CB16049 & RB16104, or
6x6 models from serial numbers C12747, BF9212, SN10191 & S10178:
This chain tensioning system consists of a torsion spring loaded cam assembly with a
slider block which takes up the slack on the bottom side of all but the front final drive
chains. As the chain wears, the chain tensioning mechanism adjusts semi-automatically.
Under most conditions, the tensioner cam assembly will move to the next step of
adjustment simply due to normal drive system dynamics. Sometimes, however, the cam
assembly can bind due to debris caught in the area.
IMPORTANT
The tensioner cannot progress to the next step until there is enough slack in the chain.
With the wheels raised off the ground, check if the chain slack exceeds 2.5 inches. If it
does, then reach under the slider block assembly and pull up.
Check for proper chain tensioner operation every 10 hours of vehicle operation.
6. Reinstall the drive chain and remove the locking pliers securing the cam assembly in
its lowest position.
7. Pull up on the cam assembly to allow it to take up as much chain slack as possible.
WA-18 WA-19
4. Slide out the pivot pin which holds the chain tensioner assembly together. Photo
WA-20
5. Pull the upper and lower assembly from the vehicle and collect the remaining com-
ponents of the assembly. These include a spacer and spacer spring. Photo WA-21
WA-20 WA-21
WA-22
7. Inspect the upper and lower tensioner arms for any cracks or bends and warping. A
twisted or bent tensioner arm can cause uneven wear on the block, or cause the
spring that tensions the 2 halves together to inadvertently pop off during vehicle
operation. Replace as required.
Disassembling the Chain Tensioner System
On 8x8 models manufactured from serial numbers CB16049 & RB16104, or
6x6 models from serial numbers C12747, BF9212, SN10191 & S10178:
2. Turn the tensioner cam assembly in the direction which winds up the torsion spring
and push the assembly down as close as possible to the cam follower to loosen the
chain. Clamp it in this position with a Vice-Grip 10CR or similar plier as illustrated
in Photo WA-23, then remove the chain.
4. With the chain removed, unfasten the clamp holding the chain tensioner system and
let it unwind to its top most position. Unfasten the spring at the cam's tab. Photo
WA-24
WA-26 WA-27
6. Slip the one torsion spring off the cam, and remove the second torsion spring from
the frame assembly by removing the cotter pin that secures it.
Photo WA-27
Assembling the Chain Tensioner System
On 8x8 models manufactured prior to serial numbers CB16049 & RB16104, or
6x6 models prior to serial numbers SN10191 & S10178:
If the nylon slider block needs replacing:
1. Place the tensioner arm on to a solid surface, such as the top of a vise.
Photo WA-028
2. Position one end of the new slider block on to the tensioner arm.
3. Press firmly on to the tensioner arm. Use light strokes of a rubber mallet if neces-
sary. Photo WA-29
WA-28 WA-29
WA-30 WA-31
5. Place the bushing, spring, lower tensioner arm and upper tensioner arm on
to the pivot pin as you push the pivot pin through. Photo WA-31
9. Install the spring between upper and lower arms. Photo WA-34
WA-33 WA-034
4. Insert the cotter pin and bend it over with a pair of needle nose pliers.
5. Press the upper and lower tensioner arms together. Make sure that the faces of the
nylons slider blocks are up against the chain.
6. Install the spring between upper and lower arms.
4. Slip the second torsion spring on to the shaft of the tensioner cam assembly.
Photo WA-38
WA-37 WA-38
5. Insert the extended length of the torsion spring, assembled to the cam, into the hole
of the welded tab on the frame. Photo WA-39 At the same time, place the same
side of the cam's shaft into the tensioner systems guide.
WA-39 WA-40
6. Push the previously inserted side of the cam to the bottom of the guide and raise the
opposite side to insert over the extended
length of the second torsion spring on
the bushing side. Photo WA-40
WA-42 WA-43
WA-44 WA-45
Regular maintenance of the idler chains is essential to good vehicle performance and
personal safety. Poorly maintained idler chains can result in rusted, corroded or
seized up chains, damaged brake discs, worn or broken idler shaft assemblies, and
costly repair procedures.
1. Every 20 hours of vehicle operation, perform the servicing procedure, Idler Chain
Inspection.
2. Every 50 hours of vehicle operation, perform the servicing procedure, Idler Chain
Adjustment.
3. Every 10 hours of vehicle operation, perform the servicing procedure, Idler Chain
Lubrication.
On ARGOS manufactured from SN7841, S8131 and all RB, CB, BF & C vehicles,
locate the two 3/8"-16x3" bolts threaded into the lower frame channel beneath the
rear power pack mounting bolt. Turn each of these clockwise to lower the rear of the
power pack frame assembly. Photo WA-47
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WA-47 WA-48
4. Place the vehicle in neutral gear and roll the vehicle until the connecting link on the
idler chain is half way between the brake disc sprocket and the idler assembly
sprocket. Photo WA-48
5. Using a small slot screwdriver, pry off the clip securing the connecting link to the
chain.
The left hand side idler chain may prove easier to remove if the driven clutch is removed
first. Perform the servicing procedure, Driven Clutch Removal, in section CS of this
service guide.
6. Remove the connecting link taking care to collect the end cap and 2 internal spacers
that are installed between the double 40 or 50 chain.
7. Slide the idler chain free of the brake disc and idler shaft assembly. It may be neces-
sary to roll the vehicle forward or backward to achieve this.
If the vehicle can be raised off the ground, the wheels can be easily rotated to remove and
reinstall any of the chains in the drive train system.
2. Clean the chain with a strong solvent such as varsol. This will remove all chain
lube, dirt, and accumulated grease.
Never use gasoline as a cleaning solvent. Gas is extremely flammable and can
explode if ignited, causing serious personal injury or death.
The idler chains will stretch and wear after extensive vehicle use. If not regularly
inspected, adjusted and maintained, loose or worn idler chains will cause a reduction
in vehicle performance, damage to idler and brake disc sprockets, and a hazard to
personal safety. Please inspect regularly.
4. If the idler chains need replacing, perform the servicing procedure, Idler Chain
Removal and the procedure, Idler Chain Installation.
WA-50 WA-51
Ensure that the connecting link clip has been properly installed. Failure to install
this clip correctly could result in severe damage to vehicle drive train components
and costly repairs. Use a small technicians mirror to correctly view the clip after it
has been installed.
IMPORTANT
When adjusting idler chain tension, be sure to always alternate between each
adjustment bolt, turning each a little at a time.
i. Adjust the chains until the amount of deflection in both idler chains is less than 1/8"
(3mm) See Photo WA-49 on page WA-22
ii. Secure the jam nuts of each tensioner bolt.
iii. Tighten all power pack mounting bolts.
On ARGOS manufactured from SN7841, S8131 and all RB, CB, BF & C vehicles:
i. Locate the two 3/8"-16x3" bolts threaded into the lower frame channel beneath the
rear power pack mounting bolt. Turn each of these counter-clockwise to raise the
rear of the power pack frame assembly and tension the idler chains. See Photo
WA-47 on page WA-21
ii. Adjust the chains until the amount of deflection in both idler chains is less than 1/8"
(3mm) See Photo WA-49 on page WA-22
iii. Tighten all power pack mounting bolts.
iv. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Firewall.
Idler Chain Adjustment
On ARGOS manufactured from SN7841, S8131 and all RB, CB, BF & C vehicles,
loosen the locknut in front and behind the idler axles. These are threaded to 2
mounting bolts inserted through the power pack frame from right to left attaching it
at the lower frame. See Photo WA-46 on page WA-20
On 6x6 models produced from S7304 and prior to S8131, undo the jam nuts at the
chain tensioner bolts and using an allen head wrench, turn the adjustment bolts
clockwise to raise the back end of the power pack frame. This will tighten the idler
chains. Models prior to S7304 will require a 3/4" socket on the adjustment bolt
head to raise the power pack frame.
On ARGOS manufactured from SN7841, S8131 and all RB, CB, BF & C vehicles,
locate the two 3/8"-16x3" bolts threaded into the lower frame channel beneath the
rear power pack mounting bolt. Turn each of these counter-clockwise to raise the
rear of the power pack frame assembly. See Photo WA-47 on page WA-21
IMPORTANT
When adjusting idler chain tension, be sure to always alternate between each
adjustment bolt a little at a time. DO NOT over-tighten the idler chains.
5. Refering to Photo WA-49 on page WA-22, tension the chains until the amount of
deflection is less than 1/8"
6. Secure the jam nuts of each tensioner bolt. (Prior to S8131 6x6’s only).
7. Tighten all power pack mounting bolts.
IMPORTANT
Idler shafts on Conquest, Response, Bigfoot & 6x6 Conquest models manufactured
from S/N CB16970, RB17033, BF11543 & V6016200000C12747, utilize 1 retaining
ring on each shaft. These are seated to a machined groove on each of the shafts. One
idler shaft has an “inboard” retaining ring and the other an “outboard” retaining
ring. A better explanation of these retaining rings is discussed in the servicing
procedure, Removing the Idler Shaft, for those vehicles manufactured in the above
serial number range. This retaining ring minimizes the amount the floating sprocket
can float.
Vehicles prior to the above serial numbers do not have these retaining rings installed
to the idler shafts. The newer style idler shaft is fully exchangeable with the earlier
ones, however, during reassembly of the floating sprocket to the newer idler shaft, it
should be noted that it is installed facing opposite to the way it was originally
installed on the older style shaft. Earlier sprockets were installed with the set screw
hole facing outwards. The newer style shaft requires the sprocket to be installed with
the set screw hole facing inwards.
1. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Firewall.
2. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Battery & unbolt the battery holder
from the lower frame, (Right side idler shaft only), in section ES.
3. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Driven Clutch, (Left side idler
shaft only), in section CS. (Optional, if you find it easier to access the idler shaft)
4. Remove the brake caliper (mechanical or hydraulic) on the side of the idler shaft
being removed. You do not have to disconnect the brake line from the hydraulic
caliper. Refer to steps 1 through 4 of Removing the Brake Pads, in the brake sec-
tion of this service guide. (Optional as above)
5. Perform the servicing procedure, Idler Chain Removal.
6. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Brake Disc in section BR. (Op-
tional, if you find it easier to access the idler shaft)
7. Perform the servicing procedure, Drive Chain Removal. Remove the front drive
chain connecting the front wheel to the idler axle, as well as the drive chain connect-
ing the middle (6 wheel) or mid/front (8 wheel) to the idler axle. Photo WA-52
8. Locate the 2 set screws on the inner and outer bearings and remove.
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9. With the set screws removed, pry the idler axle until it slides freely by hand within
the inner and outer bearing. Photo WA-53
WA-52 WA-53
WA-54 WA-55
WA-56
WA-57 WA-58
ii. Push the idler shaft into the inner bearing, and lift up and out at the bearing and
flange assembly on the opposite end of the shaft. Photo WA-60
WA-59
WA-60
iii. For the right hand side idler shaft, you will need to pull the floating sprocket to-
wards you as far as the spline of the shaft will allow.
iv. With a retaining ring pliers pull the inboard retaining ring back and up against the
sprocket. Photo WA-61
v. Push the idler shaft into the inner bearing, and lift up and out at the bearing and
flange assembly on the opposite end of the shaft. Photo WA-62
iv. Move the idler shaft assembly to a clean work area and remove the bearings,
flanges, retaining ring, and the floating double sprocket.
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WA-61 WA-62
E.g. Earlier 6x6 Vanguard vehicles manufactured prior to S/N S8131 utilized a
different tooth ratio on the idler axle shaft assembly. Using a newer 6x6 Vanguard
idler shaft in an earlier 6x6 Vanguard vehicle, would result in the drive chain from
the idler shaft sprocket to the front wheel sprocket, being too loose. The same result
would be noticeable at the idler chains, between the brake disc sprocket, and idler
shaft sprocket.
WA-63 WA-64
Damage to the idler shaft and sprockets can result from loose idler chains or
sprocket misalignment. Please inspect regularly.
When ordering a replacement idler shaft assembly, please note that different ARGO
models use different idler assemblies. Refer to the correct parts manual to ensure the
correct replacement part.
IMPORTANT
Idler shafts on Conquest, Response, Bigfoot & 6x6 Conquest models manufactured
from S/N CB16970, RB17033, BF11543 & V6016200000C12747 utilize 1 retaining
ring on each shaft. These are seated to a machined groove on each of the shafts
during assembly of the floating sprocket. The right hand side idler shaft has an
“inboard” retaining ring, while the left hand side has an “outboard” retaining ring.
Vehicles prior to the above serial numbers do not have these retaining rings installed
to the idler shafts. The newer style idler shaft is fully exchangeable with the earlier
ones, however, during reassembly of the floating sprocket to the idler shaft, it should
be noted that it is installed facing opposite to the way it was originally installed on
the older style shaft.
Earlier sprockets were installed with the set screw hole facing outwards (towards the
outer bearing). The newer style shaft requires the sprocket to be installed with the
set screw hole facing inwards (towards the inner bearing).
If reinstalling the original idler shaft and floating sprocket assembly, it would benefit at
this time to wash the idler shaft and floating sprocket in a varsol bath to eliminate any
accumulated grease or dirt & debris build up between the teeth of the double sprockets.
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1. Begin by applying anti-seize compound along the spline of the idler shaft, as well as
at both ends where inner and outer bearings are installed.
2. Assemble a flange to both inner and outer bearing mount studs on the lower frame.
Photo WA-68
3. Place a gasket to each of the previouly installed flanges. Photo WA-69
WA-68 WA-69
WA-70 WA-71
iii. Slip the inner bearing on to the shaft with the set screws and collar facing towards
the sprocket. Photo WA-72
iv. Install a greasable flange and the outer bearing to the opposite side of the shaft, once
again facing the collar and set screws of the bearing inwards. Photo WA-73
Take note of the machined indents on this end of the shaft. Bearing set screws are aligned
and secured at these locations in a later assembly operation.
WA-72 WA-73
v. Install the idler shaft assembly into the vehicle. Slip the inner bearing end of the
shaft in first, then drop the outer bearing end connecting bearing and flanges to the
studs. Photo WA-74
IMPORTANT
Ensure that the greasable flanges are installed with the greaseable fitting facing up.
Photo WA-75
WA-74 WA-75
vi. Install all bearing flange hardware and tighten securely. Torque to specifications
ii. Next, install the floating sprocket with the set screw hole facing inwards (towards
the inner bearing side). Place it up against the retaining ring. Photo WA-79
WA-78 WA-79
WA-81 WA-82
ii. Slip the greasable flange to the same side as the sprocket. Photo WA-82
iii. Slip the inner bearing on to the shaft with the set screws and collar facing towards
the sprocket. Photo WA-83
iv. Install a greasable flange and the outer bearing to the opposite side of the shaft, once
again facing the collar and set screws of the bearing inwards. Photo WA-84
v. Install the idler shaft assembly into the vehicle. Slip the inner bearing end of the
shaft in first, then drop the outer bearing end connecting bearing and flanges to the
IMPORTANT
studs. Photo WA-85
Ensure that the greasable flanges are installed with the greaseable fitting facing up.
Photo WA-86
WA-83 WA-84
WA-85 WA-86
viii. Align the 2 set screw holes of the outer bearing with the 2 machined countersinks of
the idler shaft. See photo WA-76 on
page WA-34. Apply blue 242 LOCTITE
to both hole and threads of the set screw
and install. Torque to specifications.
10. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Battery, and re-fasten the battery
box at the lower frame (Right side idler shaft only). Vanguards prior to S8131 have
a welded battery box.
If the brake caliper was disconnected from the hydraulic system, perform the servicing
procedure, Bleeding the Hydraulic Brake System in section BR
11. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Firewall in section VB.
IMPORTANT
6x6 Vanguard and Vanguard2 idler axles, unlike those used on Conquest, Response,
Bigfoot or Conquest 6x6, have a distinct left and right hand side. When replacing an
idler axle, keep this in mind and order accordingly.
1. Place the inner flange to the studs located beneath the power pack frame.
Photo WA-88
2. Place a gasket to the previously installed flange. Photo WA-89
3. Assemble the greasable flange to the idler axle assembly.(Larger diameter sprocket
end). WA-90
4. Slip the inner bearing to the same end as the greasable flange, with the collar facing
in. Photo WA-91
WA-88 WA-89
WA-90 WA-91
5. Install inner flange, bearing, and outer flange to the opposite end of the idler shaft.
Photo WA-92 See note following page.
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On vehicles manufactured from S10178 & SN10191 both inner and outer flanges are
greasable. Earlier models only utilize the greasable flange at the inner bearing.
WA-92 WA-93
6. Install the idler shaft assembly into the vehicle. Slip the inner bearing end of the
shaft in first, then drop the outer bearing end, connecting bearing and flanges to the
studs. Photo WA-93
7. Install all mounting hardware to the flanges and tighten securely. Torque to specifi-
cations.
On vehicles manufactured prior to S/N S10178 & SN10191, slide an open end wrench
between the lower body and frame at the outer idler axle bearing flange assembly. Hold
the head of the bolt while tightening the mounting hardware.
8. Install the brake disc. Depending on the year of vehicle, the output shafts and brake
discs may either be keyed or splined (See NOTE at bottom of page BR-38). Apply
blue 242 LOCTITE to the threads of the mounting bolt and secure with lockwasher
and flat washer. The brake disc bolt will be easier to torque later once the calipers
have been installed and applied to hold it secure.
IMPORTANT
Apply anti-seize to output shafts before installing the brake discs.
Aligning the Idler Shaft (Vanguard & Vanguard2 Models)
9. Idler shafts must be aligned with the brake disc sprocket using a square and V
Block.
WA-94 WA-95
11. Tap the idler shaft using a soft face mallet until the square contacts the upper
sprocket. Photo WA-95
12. Once aligned, the idler shaft must be drilled at the two bearing set screw locations
of the inner bearing. Using a 3/16" drill bit, drill the idler shaft axle using the set
screw hole as a guide. The idler shaft need only be drilled enough to provide a
good seat for the set screw when it is installed.
Use extreme caution when drilling to prevent any damage to the inner bearing set
screw threads. Be sure drilling is done perpendicular to the shaft and does not come
into contact with the threads of the set screw holes.
13. Apply Red 271 LOCTITE to the set screw threads and holes of the inner & outer
bearings and tighten securely. Torque to specifications.
14. Perform the servicing procedure, Drive Chain Installation. Install the front drive
chain, connecting the front wheel to the idler axle, as well as the drive chain con-
necting the middle (6 wheel)or mid/front (8 wheel) to the idler axle.
15. Perform the servicing procedure, Idler Shaft Bearing Lubrication.
16. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Brake Disc in section BR.
17. Perform the servicing procedure, Idler Chain Installation.
18. Reinstall the brake caliper. The hydraulic brake caliper (Vanguard2), should still be
connected to the brake line. See NOTE following page.
Before installing the hydraulic caliper(Vanguard2), make sure that the brake caliper
pistons and pads are spread far enough apart to accommodate the thickness of the brake
disc when the caliper is slipped back into position, and remounted to the transmission.
19. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Driven Clutch, (left side idler shaft
only), in section CS.
20. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Battery, and re-fasten the battery
box at the lower frame (Right side idler shaft only), Vanguards prior to S8131 have
a welded battery box.
If the brake caliper was disconnected from the hydraulic system (Vanguard2), perform the
servicing procedure, Bleeding the Hydraulic Brake System, in section BR
21. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Firewall, in section VB.
Do not use high pressure or excessive amounts of grease. Damage to the bearing
seals could result.
Idler Shaft Bearing Lubrication - All Models
The idler shaft bearing flanges are fitted with grease fittings. These bearings should be
greased with a small amount of a lithium based grease, NLGI #2 or #3 mineral oil (such as
Shell Alvania #3) every 100 hours of operation or whenever major maintenance is
performed on the vehicle. The grease fittings become more accessible when the idler
chains are removed. Alternatively, ARGO Part# 658-16 Right Angle Coupler, can be used
to access these fittings (also sold at automotive supply stores as a Right Angle Grease
Coupler, Thexton part no. 418) Photo WA-96 & 97
WA-96 WA-97
3. Remove the 2 set screws from the inner bearing collar. Photo WA-99
4. Remove the set screw from the drive sprocket. Photo WA-100 (Except for all front
sprockets which float)
Front axles on Vanguard 6x6's manufactured prior to S/N S8131 are not splined. These
axles and sprockets are keyed and allow the front sprocket to float. Loosen the set screw
on the locking collar used to limit the amount the sprocket can float.
WA-99 WA-100
WA-102 WA-103
6x6 Vanguards manufactured prior to S/N S7447 have only a single seal in the outer
bearing greasable flange. Later 6x6 models,as well as all other models, have 2 grease
seals in the outer bearing greasable flange. Single seal outer bearing greasable flanges
are no longer available and must be updated to the to the double seal if replaced.
Do not debur the flange excessively. Over-grinding could produce a loose fitting
seal, resulting in a poorly sealed axle.
WA-105 WA-106
WA-108 WA-109
WA-112 WA-113
WA-114 WA-115
WA-117 WA-118
WA-119 WA-120
15. Align the end of the axle with the inner WA-121
bearing. Push the axle the remaining
way and install the flange hardware. Photo WA-122
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WA-122 WA-123
16. Tighten down the hardware of both inner and outer bearing flanges. Torque to
specifications.
17. Secure the sprocket to the axle shaft. Line up the countersink in the axle shaft with
the set screw in the sprocket. Apply blue 242 LOCTITE to the threads of the set
screw and tighten. Torque to specifications. Photo WA-123 (All front drive
sprockets are floaters and do not require the set screw.)
18. Install the bolt and flat washers to the
end of the axle. Apply blue 242
LOCTITE to the threads of the bolt and
torque to specifications. Photo WA-124
See NOTE top of page WA-41 regard-
ing 6x6 Vanguards prior to S7447
19. Apply blue 242 LOCTITE to the threads
of the 2 set screws of the inner bearing
and install. Torque to specifications. . WA-124
Keyed Front Axles - used on Vanguard 6x6's manufactured prior to S/N S8131:
i. Assemble the keys to the axle shaft and apply anti-seize to the keyed area.
ii. Slip the keyed sprocket on to end of the axle shaft with the longer shoulder side
facing inwards. At the same time, align the keys on the axle shaft with the keyways
iii. Slide the sprocket on followed by the locking collar used as a stop to limit the
amount this sprocket may float.
i. Tighten down and torque all inner and outer bearing flange hardware. Install the
front drive chain. Align the axle sprocket, with that of the sprocket on the idler axle.
ii. Position the locking collar on the front axle shaft so that it limits the amount the
front axle sprocket may float to the right of the axle shaft. Apply blue 242
LOCTITE to the set screw on the collar and tighten down securely. Back to step 18
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20. Perform the servicing procedure, Outer Axle & Bearing Lubrication
21. Perform the servicing procedure, Inner Axle Bearing Lubrication
Outer Axle Flange & Bearing Lubrication
WA-125 WA-126
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WA-128 WA-00
WA-129
IMPORTANT
Drive sprockets on front axles of all models are free floating and do not require set
screws to secure them to the axle shaft.
4. Align the end of the axle, with the inner
bearing. Push the axle the remaining
way and install the flange hardware.
5. Tighten down the hardware of both in-
ner and outer bearing flanges. Torque
to specifications.
6. Install the bolt and flat washers to the
end of the axle. Apply blue 242
LOCTITE to the threads of the bolt and WA-130
torque to specifications. Photo WA-130
7. Install the drive chains.
IMPORTANT
Older style bearing extensions that have been
replaced with the new design type, will WA-132
require a new style gasket as well. Vehicles
manufactured from S/N CB19200, RB19204,
BF13178 & C13176 feature this new design. Older design extensions are no longer
available as a stock item. Photo WA-133 & 134
WA-133 WA-134
IMPORTANT
6x6 Vanguards manufactured prior to S/N S7447, differ in axle and bearing setup.
These vehicles require the inner bearing to be assembled to the greasable flange with
the collar facing up, but still aligning the small hole in the bearing with the grease
fitting in the flange.
Vehicles manufactured from serial numbers A13984, R20470, C20468 & B13985 do not
require this inner gasket due to a tooling change to the inner flange assembly.
3. Place regular flange to the top of the gasket. Photo WA-139
WA-138 WA-139
4. Assemble the bearing and flange assembly to the inner frame channel and secure
with the appropriate hardware. Orient the grease fitting facing up.
Photo WA-140 & 141
Be sure that the axle has been installed first to the inner bearing before tightening down
and torquing all flange mounting hardware.
WA-140 WA-141
Removing a Tire
1. Loosen each of the wheel nuts on the tire.
2. Raise the vehicle off the ground and remove all 5 wheel nuts.
3. Pull the tire from the vehicle.
Wheel Disassembly
IMPORTANT
Proper tools are required for tire removal
If it is difficult to break the bead, apply a soap and water solution or tire mounting
lubricant to the rim periphery.
Do not damage the tire bead or rim bead seat. Damage to them will prevent proper
sealing.
Tire pressure should be checked when tires are cold. A special low pressure gauge is
available through your distributor, dealer or Ontario Drive & Gear Ltd.
Tire Inspection
Maintenance Schedule - Inspect every 25 hours of vehicle operation.
Inspect the tires for:
• proper tire inflation pressure
• valve stem condition
• good bead contact with rim
• loose wheel nuts
• cuts, puntures, excessive wear, etc.
• leakage around the tire seal
• bead damage
• damaged wheel rims and wheel hubs
To repair or replace a tire you will need to remove it from the rim.
Use of a non-standard tire on any Argo model will affect the steering characteristics
of the vehicle. Serious injury could result.
Temporary Repair
To temporarily repair a punctured tire, use the plug method. A plug kit, available from
most automotive parts stores, will provide the parts, tools and instructions to carry out the
repair.
General Tire Repair
To more permanently repair a damaged or punctured tire, apply a radial tire patch to the
inside of the tire if the damage is less than 1/2" (12mm) in diameter. This type of kit is
also available from most automotive stores.
Wheel Reassembly
Never use petroleum or silicon based solutions as lubricants. Rim slippage, bead
damage or dislodging of the bead may result. Regular tire lube or a thin liquid soap
and water solution works best.
2. Work the bead over the rim flange with tire irons, small sections at a time.
3. Turn the tire over and work the other side on.
Use a safety cage and remote inflation control valve when seating a tire bead.
NEVER stand near a tire when the bead is seating. NEVER exceed the
recommended seating pressure. The tire can break with an explosive force which
can cause serious injury or death.
4. Inflate the tire until until each bead has popped and seated to the rim. If it doesn't
pop immediately, leave it sit a few minutes under pressure. NEVER exceed the
recommended pressure for seating the bead indicated on the tire.
5. Inspect both beads for proper seating.
6. Install the valve stem and adjust to the proper pressure (2.5 - 3 psi.)
7. Install valve cap.
Valve Replacement
1. Demount the outer bead. See servicing procedure, Wheel Disassembly, in this
section of the service guide.
2. Push the valve out of the rim, towards the inside of the tire.
3. Insert the new valve from the inside of the tire, and pull it into place with a valve
pulling tool.
Be sure the valve seats evenly into the valve hole of the rim
4. Inflate the tire to remount the bead. See servicing procedure, Wheel Reassembly in
this section of the service guide.
Wheel Installation
1. Apply anti-seize compound to the threads of the axle hub studs.
2. Place the wheel on to the mounting studs.
3. Install the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nut facing into the rim.
4. Tighten the nuts in a clockwise direction and torque to specifications.
5. Lower the vehicle to the floor.
SECTION WA
Supplement Pages
15C
15B
15E
15D
IMPOR
IMPORTTANT
Avenger models manufactured from
serial number V23216 have 90
degree greasable fittings oriented as
follows: The left hand side, with the
grease fitting located at the bottom,
facing rearward, Photo 15E, and the
15F right hand side located at the top,
also facing rearward. Photo 15F
Avengers Manufactured Prior To Serial
Number V23216
1. Install a 101-35 bearing and 101-78RM
swivel greasable flange to the previously
installed 605-63 flange at the inner idler
axle location, on both left and right side
of the frame. Photo 15G Secure Loosely
with (4) flat washers and (4)nylon
locknuts. 15G
IMPORTANT
IMPORT
The swivel grease fitting of the101-78RM is oriented to the bottom of the
flange and facing towards the drivers compartment. Photo 15G
2. Insert the grease tubing into the bulk head grease fitting. Photo 15 H See NOTE
following page.
There are 2 different lengths of grease tubing for the left and right hand side idler shaft
assembly. See your Avenger parts manual for correct lengths.
15 H 15 I
4. Install the 100-111 bulk head fittings to the left and right side of the frame and con-
nect the tube to the swivel grease fittings of the two inner bearings. Photo 15 I
5. Install the idler shafts to the vehicle, inserting the shaft first into the inner bearing
and then attaching at the outer bearing. See orientation of sprocket collars below.
Photo 15J & 15 K
15 J 15 K
Assembling Idler Shafts To The Vehicle (Avenger Models From Serial # 25622)
810-59 Idler Shafts used on later Avenger models have a retaining ring installed to each
side of the idler shaft drive sprocket. These retaining rings help limit allowable movement
of the idler sprocket under application. As these 810-59 Idler Shafts are also common to
Conquest, Response and Bigfoot, there are (4) machined retaining ring grooves on each
shaft to accommodate each of these models. However, placement of the retaining rings is
dependant not only on model, but also whether it is a right hand side or left hand side idler
shaft. See Diagrams A and B for correct retaining ring locations (circled) on Avenger
models.
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Diagram A
Diagram B
Diagram C
Diagram D
Retaining Ring Locations For Conquest, Response and Bigfoot (810-59 Idler Shafts
With (4) Retaining ring Grooves)
DIAGRAM E
DIAGRAM F
3. Remove the firewall.Turn the quick release fastener located at the top of the
firewall. Pull the top of the firewall rear-
ward and into the drivers compartment.
7. Remove the drive chain between front sprocket and idler shaft sprocket.
Photo WA-1 Refer to Drive Chain Removal in the 673-04 Argo Service Guide.
8. Remove the inner axle fastener and washer located at the inner bearing on the axle
end. Photo WA-2
For ease of removal, place the closed end of the wrench at the fastener head while turning
the axle at the wheel hub on the outside of the vehicle. Photo WA-3
WA-2 WA-3
WA-4 WA-5
12. Using a soft faced hammer, tap the wheel hub from behind to remove the axle from
the vehicle. Photo WA-5 & 6
The outer bearing, greasable flange,and axle will be removed as an assembly. Retrieve the
drive sprocket from inside the vehicle once the axle has been completely removed from the
vehicle.
WA-6 WA-7
13. Remove the set screws from the collar of the outer bearing.
14. Using an arbor press, press the bearing and greasable flange from the axle shaft.
Photo WA-7
15. Clean all components in a varsol bath and inspect.
16. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Axle Seals, in the Wheels, Axles &
Chain section of the 673-04 Argo Service Guide.
Loosen off or remove the set screws from the new bearing before slipping it on to the
axle.
WA-8 WA-9
3. Apply Blue LOCTITE to the set screws and secure to the axle shaft. Torque to
specifications. Photo WA-8
4. Fill the inner grease cavity with axle grease (Lithium based, NLGI #2 or 3 mineral
oil based), using a hand grease gun. Photo WA-9
5. Set the greasable flange to the bearing aligning the grease fitting with the small hole
in the bearing. Photo WA-10 & 11
WA-10 WA-11
6. Install a cork gasket at the front aluminum axle extension followed by a steel inner
flange and second cork gasket. Photo WA-12
WA-12 WA-13
7. Apply some anti-seize compound to the spline area of the axle shaft. Photo WA-13
8. Slip the axle assembly into the front bearing extension. Photo WA-14 On the inside
of the vehicle, prepare to install the front sprocket as the axle is pushed through to
the inner bearing.
IMPORTANT
The front axle sprocket is a "floater" and requires no set screws. Orient the
sprocket with the larger shoulder facing towards the inside of the vehicle. Photo WA-
15
WA-14 WA-15
9. Align the mounting holes of the greasable flange with the studs of the aluminum
bearing extension and place into position up tight against the cork gasket. Photo
WA-16
WA-16 WA-17
11. Secure with nylon locknuts and torque to specifications. Photo WA-18
WA-18 WA-19
SECTION FS
Fuel System
Table of Contents
General Instructions............................................................................. FS-2
Fueling the Vehicle................................................................................ FS-3
Removing the Fuel Tank (All Models, except Avenger)..................... FS-4
Removing the Fuel Tank (Avenger Models) Supplement Pages........FS-4A
Vented Fuel System............................................................................... FS-4
Removing the Fuel Tank (6x6 Vehicles Prior to S7304).....................FS-7
Installing the Fuel Tank (All Models)..................................................FS-6
Installing the Fuel Tank (6x6 Vehicles Prior to S7304)......................FS-8
Inspecting the Fuel Tank and Fuel Line..............................................FS-6
Fuel Filter............................................................................................... FS-8
Keep all open flame or spark away from the Argo while servicing the fuel system.
Gasoline is extremely flammable, and can cause serious PERSONAL INJURY or
DEATH.
Before servicing the fuel tank or fuel line, drain or siphon the fuel tank.
Perform all service work on the fuel system in a well ventilated area.
Gasoline is extremely flammable and can explode under certain conditions. Do not
add fuel while the engine is running or hot. If fuel is spilled in, on or around the
vehicle, wipe it up immediately. Flush out any fuel spilled in the vehicle with water
and allow it to drain out through the drain plug holes. Do not smoke when filling the
fuel tank.
Use clean, fresh, unleaded gasoline in all models of the ARGO. Minimum 87 octane fuel
is recommended. The use of Briggs & Stratton Fuel Stabilizer is also recommended
with each tankful.
Leaded gasoline can be used as a substitute fuel. However, if leaded gasoline is used, the
engine will require more frequent servicing.
Never use gasoline containing methanol or white gas since engine or fuel system damage
could occur.
All models of the ARGO are equipped with a 32 litre (7.0 Imp. Gal., 8.4 U.S. Gal.) “see-
thru” polyethelene fuel tank located underneath the driver’s seat. depending on loading
and driving conditions, an ARGO can be driven for 7 to 12 hours on one tank of fuel.
Verify your vehicle’s actual fuel consumption before attempting any long trips. Never
travel in remote areas or set out on long trips without a full tank of fuel and adequate spare
fuel stored in approved watertight fuel containers.
The fuel filler neck and fuel cap are located on the right side of the vehicle behind the
driver’s seat. Replace the fuel cap if fuel leakage occurs, or if moisture is detected in the
fuel.
Never fill the tank to the point where the fuel level rises into the filler neck. If the tank is
overfilled, heat may cause the fuel to expand and overflow through the vent.
Portable fuel containers may contain contaminants (dirt, water, etc.) that will cause engine
operating problems. Use only clean, approved gasoline containers.
After filling the fuel tank, be sure the fuel cap is replaced securely. Do not drive the
vehicle unless the fuel cap is properly in place.
Never use untreated gasoline that has been stored for more than 45 days. Stale
gasoline can cause deposits to form in the fuel lines and carburetor. These deposits
clog the fuel system and cause engine starting and operating problems.
When storing the ARGO for 45 days or more, use ARGO Part No. 127-77 Fuel
Stabilizer to treat fuel in the fuel tank and fuel containers.
Vented Fuel System - All Models
All ARGO models have fuel systems that are vented through a special hose connected to
the filler neck assembly that runs along the upper body to a fitting at the left rear.
IMPORTANT
IMPORT
Ensure that the vent line is not pinched, or becomes kinked between filler neck and
rear outlet fitting. Check the outlet fitting at the lower body occasionally for any
dirt or debris that may be plugging the venting system. Vehicle performance can be
drastically affected when fuel tank venting becomes restricted.
FS-1 FS-2
IMPORTANT
IMPORT
Depending on the design of the fuel tank,
earlier models may require that the tank
be removed from the vehicle by pulling it
from the seat frame into the rear
compartment. The tank will need to be
raised high enough for the sediment bowl
to clear the seat frame assembly below.
To provide enough clearance, shim the FS-3
seat support at the 4 corners where the
storage tray fasteners were removed. Photo FS-3
7. Undo the gear clamp securing the filler hose at the fuel tank neck and pull the filler
neck assembly free of the tank. Pull the assembly from the tank at the fuel cap.
Photo FS-4
IMPORTANT
IMPORT
The filler necks of vehicles manufactured prior to CB14963, RB14945, BF10092,
SN10111 & S10112, may not be pulled through the upper body filler hole as shown
below. Filler necks in these earlier models have a small metal vent tube welded to
the filler neck, to which the vent tube is crimped. Pull the tank from the vehicle
along with the filler neck assembly until the vent line is visible and can be
disconnected from the filler neck tube
8. Pull the fuel tank up through the seat frame assembly and free of the vehicle.
Photo FS-5
Ensure that the vent tube does not pull out from the filler neck and that it is not
kinked in any way when the filler neck assembly is reassembled to the new tank.
FS-4 FS-5
9. Unthread the fuel pickup tube from the tank and discard.
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1. Thread the new pickup tube into the top of the fuel tank. Position the outlet facing
the rear of the tank.
IMPORTANT
IMPORT
Be sure to replace any missing or damaged
cushioning required on the fuel tank frame
assembly before installing the tank. All
cushioning provides a secure fit for the
tank, and protects the tank from wear due
to vibration. Photo FS-6 FS-6
2. Slip the new or cleaned tank through the
top of the seat support frame, or in from the rear compartment of the Argo. See
IMPORTANT on previous page.
3. Reconnect the filler hose to the tank and secure with the gear clamp.
4. Be sure to reconnect the fuel vent hose at the filler neck and ensure that it is facing
up and not kinked or pinched in any way.
5. With the tank in place, reinstall the tool box and secure with the 4 fasteners
6. Replace the fuel filter with a new one.
7. Place the front seat back into the vehicle.
Leakage in the fuel system is very dangerous! A spark or open flame can ignite
gasoline fumes, causing serious injury or death. Extensive vehicle damage will also
occur.
Regular inspection of the fuel tank and fuel line is essential to personal safety and good
vehicle performance. Inspect the fuel tank for:
• cracks or leaks
• loose or broken clamps
• loose connection in pick-up pipe
If any of these conditions exist, replace the affected component parts immediately.
Removing the Fuel Tank (6x6 Vanguards prior to S7304)
2. Plug the filler pipe with a rag to prevent any foreign material from entering the tank.
3. Remove the backrest. Locate and pry loose the 3 grey plugs in the upper
body behind the backrest.
4. Using a socket and extension, remove the 3 bolts and washers holding the backrest to
the upper body.
5. Lift the backrest out of the vehicle.
6. Remove the front floor pan.
7. Remove the fasteners securing the bench seat to the top of the fuel tank.
8. Remove the seat cushion.
9. Disconnect the fuel line from the pickup tube.
10. Slide the fuel tank and cage 2 or 3 inches toward the firewall.
11. Rotate the fuel tank 90 degrees.
12. Lift the fuel tank out of the seating compartment, sliding the fuel neck assembly out
of the upper body.
The vent tubing for the fuel system is attached to the metal filler neck section of the
filler neck assembly. Caution should be observed as not to damage the outlet nipple
welded to the metal neck assembly. Any bending or kinking of this small tube will
prevent the tank from venting causing serious performance issues later on.
13. Undo the gear clamp at the tank and pull the filler hose assembly free of the tank.
The vent tubing may remain attached to the metal neck assembly.
14. Remove the tank & seat cage from the vehicle.
5. Fasten the fuel tank cage and seat to the seat support brackets. Tighten the bolts with
a socket and extension.
Insert the bolts squarely into the seat cushion and do not overtighten. Incorrectly
positioned and tightened bolts will strip or dislodge the thread inserts in the seat
cushions, resulting in a costly repair.
Fuel Filter
All models of the ARGO are equipped with an in-line fuel filter (replacement fuel filter is
ARGO Part No. 125-64). On Conquest models the fuel filter is located in the fuel hose,
next to the fuel tank. On all other Argo models the fuel filter is located at the engine.
Replace the fuel filter after every 250 hours of operation or once a year. To replace the
filter, loosen the gear clamps with a standard screw driver and pull the rubber fuel lines
off of the filter. Install the new filter with the flow arrow pointing toward the engine.
Tighten the clamps securely. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.
SECTION FS
Supplement Pages
6. Undo the gear clamp securing the filler hose at the fuel tank neck and pull the filler
neck assembly free of the tank. Photo FS 1
7. Remove the tank from the vehicle. The tank will come forward into the drivers
compartment. Photo FS 1 & 2
Ensure that the vent tube does not pull out from the filler neck and that it is not
kinked in any way when the filler neck assembly is reassembled to the new tank.
FS-1 FS-2
9. Unthread the fuel pickup tube from the tank and discard.
Installing the Fuel Tank
1. Thread the new pickup tube into the top of the fuel tank. Position the outlet facing
towards the fuel neck side of the vehicle.
IMPOR
IMPORTTANT
Be sure to replace any missing or damaged cushioning required on the fuel tank
frame assembly before installing the tank. All cushioning provides a secure fit for
the tank, and protects the tank from wear due to vibration. Photo FS-3
FS-3 FS-4
2. Slip the new or cleaned tank into the vehicle from the drivers compartment, recon-
necting the filler hose to the tank at the same time and secure it with the gear clamp.
IMPOR
IMPORTTANT
Be sure to reconnect the fuel vent hose at the filler neck and ensure that it is facing
up and not kinked or pinched in any way.
3. With the tank in place, reinstall the tool box and secure with rivets.
4. Replace the fuel filter with a new one.
5. Reinstall the battery
6. Place the front seat back into the vehicle.
SECTION VB
Vehicle Body
Table of Contents
General Instructions............................................................................. VB-2
Removing the Firewall (Conquest, Response, Bidfoot, Van2)...........VB-3
Installing the Firewall........................................................................... VB-4
Removing the Firewall (6x6 Vanguards)............................................. VB-4
Installing the Firewall (6x6 Vanguards).............................................. VB-5
Removing the Floor Pans......................................................................VB-7
Installing the Floor Pans.......................................................................VB-7
Removing the Rear Seats ( 8x8 models).............................................. VB-8
Installing the Rear Seats ( 8x8 models)............................................... VB-8
Removing the Rear Seats (6x6 models)............................................... VB-8
Installing the Rear Seats (6x6 models)................................................ VB-9
Replacing the Backrest Pad..................................................................VB-9
Removing the Backrest Handrail Assembly....................................... VB-9
Installing the Backrest Handrail Assembly........................................ VB-9
Removing the Drain Plugs....................................................................VB-10
Installing the Drain Plugs..................................................................... VB-10
Upper Body Removal............................................................................ VB-11
Upper Body Installation........................................................................VB-12
Lower Body Removal............................................................................VB-13
Lower Body Installation....................................................................... VB-14
Frame Inspection...................................................................................VB-15
1. Pull the throttle cable free of the firewall at the rubber grommet. Photo VB-1
The front floor pan need not be removed when pulling the firewall from the vehicle.
2. Locate the wing stud fastener at the central lower portion of the firewall.
Photo VB-2
3. Turn the wing stud fastener to release the firewall from the clip that secures it to the
lower frame.
VB-1 VB-2
VB-4 VB-5
3. Push the firewall in at the bottom and snap in securely with the wing fastener.
4. Assemble the throttle cable grommet to the firewall.
Removing the Firewall (6x6 Vanguards)
On 6x6 Vanguards produced prior to S8131:
1. Remove the front floor pan assembly. Pull the clevis pin from each side of the floor
pan and pull the floor pan up and out from the vehicle.
2. Unthread the shift knob from the lever & remove the twist grip throttle from the right
steering lever.
3. Remove the 2 steering adjustment locknuts and lay the steering levers back against
the driver's seat.
4. Remove the fasteners on each side of the firewall at the lower frame assembly. Refer
to your illustrated parts manual for firewall design and hardware breakdown.
5. Remove the 2 fasteners securing the firewall into the T nuts at the lower body.
6. Remove the firewall.
On 6x6 Vanguards produced from S8131 and prior to S10769:
1. Remove the front floor pan assembly. Pull the clevis pin from each side of the floor
pan and pull the floor pan up and out from the vehicle.
2. Unthread the shift knob from the lever & remove the twist grip throttle from the right
steering lever.
3. Remove the 2 steering adjustment locknuts and lay the steering levers back against
the driver's seat.
4. Remove the fasteners securing the firewall to each side of the lower frame assembly.
Refer to your illustrated parts manual for firewall design and hardware breakdown.
5. Pull the firewall from the vehicle grabbing from the bottom of the firewall and pull-
ing into the drivers compartment.
6. Lift up and out from the vehicle.
1. Remove the front floor pan assembly. Pull the clevis pin from each side of the floor
pan and pull the floor pan up and out from the vehicle.
2. Loosen off the 2 steering adjustment locknuts to allow enough steering handle travel
for the firewall to be pulled up and out from the vehicle.
3. Undo the firewall at the dash support. The firewall is secured by 2 quick release
wingstuds.
4. Remove the firewall from the vehicle.
Installing the Firewall(6x6 Vanguards)
On 6x6 Vanguards produced prior to S8131:
1. With the steering levers pulled back against the drivers seat, install the firewall into
the vehicle aligning the mounting holes of the firewall, with those in the lower frame
assembly, and the T nuts in the lower body.
2. Fasten the firewall at 4 locations as shown in the appropriate illustrated parts manual
using the listed hardware.
3. Reconnect the steering levers at the brake cams and re-thread the nylon locknuts to
the steering rods.
4. Reinstall the twist grip assembly to the right hand steering lever.
5. Perform the servicing procedure, Steering Lever Adjustment, in section BR of this
service guide.
6. Install the shift knob.
7. Install the floor pan.
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VB-10 VB-11
1. Place the rear seat into position aligning the larger routed area with the large lower
seat washer. Photo VB-12
2. Pull the seat towards yourself until the 2 plastic bumpers clip into the holes that are
drilled in the upper body. Photo VB-13
VB-12 VB-13
6x6 Vanguards manufactured prior to S7447, utilize a backrest handrail that is secured to
the seat frame assembly by a single set screw on each side of the vehicle. See your
illustrated parts manual for component breakdown. To remove the set screws you must
raise the drivers seat to access the set screw heads. Once the set screws are removed, pull
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the handrail up and out of the seat frame below. Backrest handrails of this design are no
longer available. If a replacement is required, the vehicle will need to be updated to the
newer style backrest assembly.
VB-14
Exact location of drain plug depends on year
and model of Argo
1. Locate the plug and lift the lever up-
wards to loosen the plug.
2. Pull the plug from the lower body hole.
VB-15 VB-16
Be careful not to damage the body plastic during this drilling procedure.
6. 6x6 Vanguards manufactured prior to S7447 will require the backrest/handrail to be
removed from the seat frame assembly.
7. Remove the exhaust system and air intake assemblies as outlined in the Ducting and
Exhaust section of this service guide.
8. Disconnect all wiring from the battery, headlights, ignition switch and solenoid.
9. If applicable, disconnect the choke cable and wiring running to the headlamp switch.
10. Remove the gas cap and plug the fuel filler tube to prevent any foreign material from
entering the tank.
11. Cautiously lift the upper body from the lower body paying attention to anything that
still may need to be disconnected.
12. Disconnect the tank venting tube at the filler neck assembly and at the male connec-
tor located on the lower body at the rear of the vehicle.
If further disassembly is required:
13. Remove the headlights from the upper body as outlined in section ES of this service
guide.
14. Remove the vehicle wire harness, all gauges, indicator lights and any remaining
accessory wiring from the upper body.
15. 6x6 Vanguards manufactured prior to S7304 require the back rest pad to be removed
from the upper body. See Replacing the Backpad in this section of the service
guide.
16. Remove the rear seats and all trim.
17. Unclip the fuel tank vent tubing that runs from the fuel neck hole, to the rear of the
vehicle.
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Ensure that the vent line is not pinched, or becomes kinked anywhere along the
length between filler neck and rear outlet fitting. Vehicle performance can be
drastically affected when fuel tank venting becomes restricted.
The vent tubing for the fuel system is attached to the metal filler neck. Caution
should be observed as not to damage the outlet nipple that is welded to the metal
neck assembly on older model Argos (See IMPORTANT below). Any bending or
kinking of this small tube will prevent the tank from venting, causing serious
performance issues later on.
IMPORTANT
IMPORT
Vehicles manufactured prior to CB14963, RB14945, BF10092, SN10111 & S10112,
have a small metal vent tube welded to the filler neck at which the vent tube is
crimped. Vehicles manufactured from the above serial numbers have the vent tube
inserted directly into a hole punched through the filler neck.
9. If the upper body is a new replacement:
• center the upper body on the lower body.
• secure into place with several sets of clamps around the entire perimeter of the vehi-
cle.
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• Using a 3/16" drill bit, drill upward through the upper body, using the existing holes
in the lower body as guides.
• place body rivets through each hole. Hold a washer over the end of each rivet and
fasten using a rivet gun. Refer to your illustrated parts manual for correct hardware
description.
• using a jigsaw, trim the upper body to match the lower body.
1. Attach an overhead hoist to the vehicle frame and place it into the lower body.
2. Align the axle mounting holes in the vehicle frame and lower body.
3. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing an Axle (with bearing extensions) and/
or Installing an Axle (without extensions) in section WA of this service guide.
4. Install the wheels.
5. Install the power pack assembly as outlined in the Engine System section of this
service guide.
6. Install the fuel tank assembly as outlined in section FS of this service guide.
7. Perform the servicing procedure, Upper Body Installation, in this section of the
service guide.
Frame Inspection
1. Inspect the vehicle frame, seat support assembly and power pack frame thoroughly
for:
• cracks or breakage in the welding joints
• cracked or broken mounting lugs or inserts
• rusted through or bent frame members
If any of these conditions are noted, remove from the vehicle and attempt repair. If
damage to the frame cannot be repaired, replace immediately.
SECTION DE
Ducting & Exhaust
Table of Contents
General Instructions............................................................................. DE-2
Removing the Muffler
(Conquest Models Prior to C19672).................................................... DE-3
Disassembling the Muffler Assembly
(Conquest Models Prior to C19672).................................................... DE-5
Assembling the Muffler Assembly
(Conquest Models Prior to C19672).................................................... DE-6
Removing the Muffler (Conquests from C19672).............................. DE-7
Installing the Muffler (Conquests from C19672)............................... DE-8
Removing the Muffler (Response, Vanguard2 & Vanguard)............ DE-8
Installing the Muffler (Response, Vanguard2 & Vanguard)............. DE-10
Remove the Muffler (Bigfoot Models).................................................DE-11
Installing the Muffler (Bigfoot Models).............................................. DE-11
Spark Arrestor Information & Maintenance..................................... DE-11
Removing the Intake Duct
(Response, Bigfoot, Vanguard2 & Vanguard).................................... DE-12
Installing the Intake Duct
(Response, Bigfoot, Vanguard2 & Vanguard).................................... DE-13
Removing the Intake Duct (Conquest Models)...................................DE-13
Installing the Intake Duct (Conquest Models)....................................DE-14
Removing the Exhaust Ducting
(Response, Bigfoot, Vanguard2 & Vanguard).................................... DE-14
Installing the Exhaust Ducting
(Response, Bigfoot, Vanguard2 & Vanguard Models)........................DE-14
General Instructions
Do not service the exhaust system when it is hot! Severe burns can occur to hands
and arms.
Eye protection must be worn at all times during vehicle servicing.
2. Remove the 2 fasters securing the manifold cover to the muffler shield assembly and
remove the manifold cover. Photo DE-2 & 3
DE-1 DE-2
DE-3 DE-4
3. The lower shroud is secured by 2 more fasteners. Remove the 2 fasteners and lift the
lower shroud from the vehicle. Photo DE-4
4. Disconnect the muffler at the manifold. Photo DE-5 The muffler and exhaust mani-
fold are joined together with 2 bolts, 4 flatwashers, 2 compression springs and 2
locking style nuts. Refer to the illustration in the appropriate parts manual for a
breakdown and orientation of the hardware.
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DE-5 DE-6
5. There are 2 fasteners securing the the entire muffler assembly to the lower body.
These are located at the lower body under the front wheel. It may prove easier to
remove the front wheel to access the fastener heads with a socket or wrench. Photo
DE-6 & 7
DE-7 DE-8
6. Pull the muffler and shroud assembly into the engine compartment area enough for
the tailpipe to clear the outside exhaust screen. Turn the assembly 90 degrees and
shove it back over the wheel well temporarly until the exhaust manifold has been
removed. Photo DE-8
7. Unbolt the exhaust manifold and re-
move it from the engine.
Photo DE-9
8. Slide the muffler asssembly towards
the engine compartment and up and
out of the vehicle. Photo DE-10
Compress the rubber shock mounted
lower support to narrow the width of
the assembly while pulling up, and out DE-9
from the compartment.
DE-10 DE-11
DE-12 DE-13
DE-14
DE-15 DE-16
3. Reinstall the 2 lower fasteners to secure the muffler at the bottom of the shroud.
Photo DE-17
4. Flip the assembly over and secure the muffler at the exhaust inlet end.
Photo DE-18
DE-17 DE-18
5. Secure the heat shield with the appropriate hardware. Refer to your illustrated parts
manual for correct hardware and orientation. Photo DE-19
6. Install the assembly into the vehicle at 90 degrees, compressing the rubber mounted
lower support to ease the installation and provide enough clearance in the engine
compartment. Photo DE-20 Set the assembly on to the front wheel well temporarily
DE-19 DE-20
IMPORTANT
IMPORT
Exhaust manifold gaskets should be replaced with new ones
8. Assemble the muffler assembly to the exhaust manifold. The original compression
springs may be reused but new hardware is recommended.
IMPORTANT
IMPORT
When tightening down the hardware between muffler and exhaust manifold, it is
critical not to overtighten the hardware. By no means should the compression spring
become coil bound. Tighten only enough to provide a good seal between muffler and
manifold. Over tightening can cause undue stress at the muffler inlet due to the
twisting and turning of the vehicle under application. Correct tension at the
compression spring allows for movement in this area.
9. Reinstall the manifold heat shield and lower cover. Use the appropriate hardware as
illustrated in your parts manual.
10. Fasten the muffler and shroud assembly to the lower body at the front wheel well.
The lower rubber mounted support is slotted to provide adjustment for the tailpipe at
the exhaust screen hole. Ensure that the tailpipe does not touch any of the surround-
ing screen area and secure the assembly to the lower body.
Removing the Muffler (Conquest Models)
On Conquest vehicles manufactured from C19686, all 6x6 Conquests and
all 35th anniversary vehicles:
1. Remove the 4 fasteners securing the heat shield over the muffler. Photo DE-21
2. Disconnect the 2 extension springs connecting the tailpipe to the muffler and remove
the tailpipe. Photo DE-22
3. Unfasten the muffler at the engine and remove.
DE-21 DE-22
IMPORTANT
IMPORT
New exhaust gaskets are recommended when ever servicing the muffler system.
2. Install the tailpipe/spark arrestor to the muffler, connecting with 2 extension springs.
3. Install the heat shield over the muffler, securing with 4 fasteners. Refer to the illus-
trated parts manual for correct hardware and orientation.
Removing the Muffler (Response, Vanguard2 & Vanguard Models)
1. Remove the exhaust duct cover.
On 6x6 Vanguards manufactured prior to S8131:
i. Remove the 3 fasteners securing the exhaust duct cover and remove the cover. This
exhaust shroud system utilizes a duct below the muffler. See the appropriate illus-
trated parts manual for component structure on these earlier models.
On vehicles manufactured from S8131, SN8138, RB12075 and prior to S13434,
N13436, R19647:
i. Remove the 3 fasteners that secure the exhaust duct cover and remove the cover.
Photo DE-23
On vehicles manufactured from S13434, N13436, and R19647:
i Remove the 4 fasteners that secure the exhaust duct cover and remove the cover.
i. Remove the extension springs connecting the muffler to the exhaust manifold.
Photo DE-24
DE-23 DE-24
DE-25 DE-26
On 6x6 Vanguard vehicles produced prior to S8131, the outlet pipe of the muffler is
straight cut. This tailpipe protrudes straight out of the exhaust screen. Refer to the
illustration in the appropriate parts manual for vehicles manufactured in this serial
number range.
All vehicles manufactured from RB12075, SN7841, S8131 and prior to R19647, S13434
& N13436 are as in Photo DE-27.
DE-27 DE-28
6x6 Vangards manufactured prior to S8131, utilize a shroud below the muffler as well.
IMPORTANT
IMPORT
Always replace exhaust gaskets when servicing the muffler system.
1. Attach the muffler at the engine and torque to specifications
2. Slip the tailpipe, from the engine compartment side, through the exhaust screen hole
and connect at the muffler with 2 extension springs.
3. Assemble the heat shield to the top of the muffler using the 4 fasteners required.
Spark Arrestors
Cleaning the Spark Arrestor (Only for equipped models)
Models Equipped with Spark Arrestors.
After operating the engine, do not touch any part of the exhaust system until it has
sufficient time to cool!
1. Keep a record of the number of hours of engine use. The spark arrester should be
removed, cleaned and inspected every 50 hours of operation.
2. Remove the tail pipe assembly by disconnecting the springs from the muffler at-
tached to the tail pipe.
3. The screen-type spark arrester assembly is located inside the tail pipe. It is fastened
with one (1) slotted washer-head hex screw. Find the screw on the side of the outlet
tube.
4. Remove the screw and save it for step 9.
5. Take off the screen-type spark arrester assembly.
6. Shake loose particles out of the screen assembly.
7. Clean the screen with a wire brush. (Soak it in oil solvent if necessary.)
8. If any breaks in the screen or weldments are discovered, replace the assembly.
9. Return the screen assembly to the outlet tube and refasten it with the screw from
Step 4.
Removing the Intake Duct (Response, Bigfoot, Vanguard2 & Vanguard Models)
1. Locate the 2 fasteners securing the intake duct to the hood frame assembly and re-
move. There are 2 spacers assembled with the fasteners. Photo DE-29
2. Undo the fuel line from the nylon clips securing it to the intake duct.
3. Pull the ducting from the vehicle. Navigate it towards the front of the vehicle pulling
it up, and out. Photo DE-30
DE-29 DE-30
6x6 Vanguards manufactured prior to S8131 will have a spring attached at the rear of the
intake and connected to a small molly hook that is riveted to the lower body wheel well.
See the appropriate illustrated parts manual.
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Installing the Intake Duct (Response, Bigfoot, Vanguard2 & Vanguard Models)
1. Install the intake duct inserting it closest to the front of the vehicle. This is where the
widest available area allows it to be pushed into the vehicle. Position it in front of the
engine flywheel fan assembly.
2. Fasten the intake duct to the hood support assembly using the spacers and 2 fasten-
ers.
On 6x6 Vanguards manufactured prior to S8131, reconnect the extension spring from the
intake duct to the molly hook on the lower body.
3. Secure the fuel line to the nylon clips at the intake duct.
Removing the Exhaust Ducting (Response, Bigfoot, Vanguard2 & Vanguard Models
1. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Muffler (Response, Vanguard2 &
Vanguard Models) or: Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Muffler
(Bigfoot Models)
2. Remove the 2 fasteners securing the exhaust ducting to the hood support brace.
Photo DE-32
3. The exhaust ducting is secured at the other end by 2 body rivets located at the upper
body beneath the rubber bumper. Photo DE-33 Peel back the bumper and drill out
both rivets.
DE-32 DE-33
4. Pull the duct assembly in towards the engine compartment and up and out of the
vehicle.
Installing the Exhaust Ducting (Response, Bigfoot, Vanguard2 & Vanguard Models)
1. Insert the ducting into the engine compartment. Slip the exhaust duct support be-
tween the upper and lower body aligning the holes in the support, with the rivet
holes of the previously removed rivets.
2. Insert 2 body rivets through the body and shroud support, and secure with 2 washers
below.
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Argo Service Manual Ducting & Exhaust
Removing the Exhaust Ducting (Conquest from C19686, all 6x6 Conquests and all
35th anniversary vehicles)
1. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Muffler (Conquest) on page DE-7
of this service guide.
2. Remove the 2 fasteners securing the exhaust ducting to the hood support brace. See
Photo DE-32 previous page.
3. The exhaust ducting is secured at the other end by a body rivet located at the upper
body beneath the rubber bumper. See Photo DE-33 previous page Peel back the
bumper and drill out both rivets.
4. Pull the duct assembly in towards the engine compartment and up and out of the
vehicle.
Installing the Exhaust Ducting (Conquest from C19686, all 6x6 Conquests and all
35th anniversary vehicles)
1. Insert the ducting into the engine compartment. Slip the exhaust duct support be-
tween the upper and lower body aligning the holes in the support, with the rivet
holes of the previously removed rivets.
2. Insert 2 body rivets through the body and shroud support, and secure with 2 washers
below.
3. Fasten the duct at the upper hood brace assembly
4. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Muffler (Conquest) on page DE-8
of this service guide.
5. Reinstall the bumper.
SECTION TR
Transmission
Table of Contents
General Instructions...........................................................................TR-2
Transmission Oil/Maintenance Schedule..........................................TR-3
Recommended Oil....................................................................... ........TR-3
Oil Level Inspection............................................................................ TR-4
Changing the Transmission Oil..........................................................TR-5
Refilling the Transmission with Oil........................................... ........TR-7
General Inspection of the Transmission............................................TR-7
Removing the Transmission....................................................... ........TR-8
Disassembling the Transmission ....................................................... TR-10
Disassembling the Transmission (34-100)Supplement Pages..........TR-2A
Separating the Side Cover (Earlier Models).....................................TR-11
Separating the Side Cover (Later Models).......................................TR-12
Disassembling the Shifter Assembly.................................................. TR-18
Disassembling the Differential................................................... ........TR-19
Transmission Component Inspection........................................ ........TR-23
Transmission Component Changes Chart........................................TR-25
Transmission Assembly ......................................................................TR-27
Transmission Assembly (34-100) Supplement Pages....................... TR10A
Assembling the Differential................................................................TR-27
Assembling the Differential (34-100) Supplement Pages.................TR-17A
Assembling the Shifter Assembly.......................................................TR-33
Assembling the Housing & Cover...................................................... TR-36
Install the Differential.........................................................................TR-42
Install the Shifter Assembly................................................................TR-42
Install the Reverse Idler......................................................................TR-43
Installing the Transmission................................................................ TR-54
General Instructions
Do not attempt to move the gearshift from the neutral starting position until the
engine idles down completely. The Argo is equipped with an automatic clutch that is
activated by engine speed. If the engine idle speed is too high, the transmission will
grind during gear engagement.
Transmission Oil
Maintenance Schedule
The transmission oil should be changed after the initial 25 hours of vehicle operation.
After this, it should be changed every 150 operating hours.
Proper transmission lubrication will reduce wear, and extend gearbox life. Please use
the type, and quantity of transmission oil specified below.
Inspecting the condition and level of oil in the transmission must be done on a
regular basis.
Do not operate the ARGO if the transmission oil level on the dipstick is above or
below the grooved indicator. Damage to the transmission or a reduction in vehicle
performance could occur.
Oil Type: 80W90 Gear Oil HYPOY-C or an EP Rated 80W90 Gear Oil for Extreme
Pressure Gear applications.
Using any other than the recommended oil could cause serious damage to the transmission
components. The approximate refill capacity of the ARGO transmission is 0.85 Liters
(1.5 imperial pints, 1.8 U.S pints). However, be sure that it is filled to the full mark on the
dipstick. DO NOT OVERFILL.
Do not run the ARGO if the oil level in the transmission shows above or below the
mark on the dipstick. Damage to transmission components could occur
4. Remove the dipstick and wipe it clean of oil. Return the dipstick to the transmission
and remove it once again.
Depending on the age of the vehicle, the dipstick may require a 3/8" opened end wrench to
unthread the dipstick from the transmission housing. This could be the case for models
built prior to mid 1994. To check the oil level correctly with this style dipstick, unthread it
and wipe it clean. Re-thread it back into the housing finger tight, then remove it to view
the level.
5. Inspect the oil level. If the level indicated is not even with the mark on the dipstick,
go to step 6. Otherwise return the dipstick to the transmission.
Do not insert the Vacu-pump hose into the transmission if the gearbox oil is
extremely hot. Vacu-pump components may melt.
ii. Draw out a small quantity of gear oil from the transmission.
ii. Add a small quantity of fresh clean oil as specified in the Recommended Oil Type
on page TR-3 of this manual.
Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the thread of the dipstick (Older Models)
and retighten into the housing with a 3/8" opened end wrench.
You may drain the transmission’s oil through the oil fill/dipstick, by using a vacuum style
pump such as the one available through your ARGO dealer (part # 638-02) or preferably,
at the drain plug located at the bottom of the transmission just behind the firewall.
4 Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Front Floor Pan, in Section VB of
this service manual.
6 Clean the transmission around the dipstick location. This will keep dirt from enter-
ing the gearbox.
7 Remove the dipstick. Vehicles manufactured prior to mid 1994 will require the
dipstick to be threaded from the gearbox using a 3/8" opened end wrench. Dipsticks
on newer models utilize an "O" ring and need only be pulled straight up and out
from the transmission, however the gearshift lever may need to be shifted into low
or high gear to allow the dipstick to be
removed.
To remove the drain plug easily and effectively, a 7/16" 8 Point Socket must be used. An
opened end style wrench or vise grip wrench is not recommended as they will damage the
plug.
Be sure to follow any federal or state laws regarding the proper procedure for disposing
of oils.
1 Apply a pipe sealant compound or tape to the drain plug and reinstall. Do not over
tighten!
3 Fill the gear box with approximately 0.85 litres (1.5 Imperial Pints, 1.8 U.S. Pints)
of clean fresh 80W/90 Gear Lube Hypoy-C or an EP rated 80W/90 gear oil for Ex-
treme Gear Pressure applications. Inspect the level with the dipstick occasionally.
5 Replace the dipstick. If the dipstick is the thread in type, apply a little anti-seize
compound to the threads before installing it back into the transmission.
Problems can occur if ARGO component parts are used for heavy-duty applications.
Inspect the transmission for the problems listed below, and perform the recom-
mended servicing procedures.
If any of these conditions are noted, replace the gasket or seals immediately and tighten all
cover bolts to torque specifications.
1. Disconnect all wiring to the battery before proceeding with the following component
removal.
2. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Firewall (Quick Release), for
Response, Bigfoot and Conquest in Section VB of this manual.
Or:
Removing the Firewall for Vanguard models prior to May 19, 1999
Or :
Removing the Firewall (Quick Release) for Vanguard models manufactured after
May 19, 1999.
3. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Front Floor Pan, in the Vehicle
Body Section of this service manual.
4. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Driven Clutch, in the Clutch
Section of this manual.
5. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Brake Pads ( Hydraulic ) steps 1-
5, or Removing the Mechanical Brake Calipers, in the Brake System Section of
this manual.
6. Locate the (3) mounting bolts that secure the hydraulic brake caliper system to the
transmission and remove them. Photo TR-03
7. On Conquest models, disconnect the wiring at the igniter box which is mounted to
the steering assembly. Photo TR-04
TR-03 TR-04
8. Unfasten the twist grip assembly from the steering handle and remove it.
Photo TR-05
9. Remove the entire hydraulic brake system from the vehicle. The calipers, master
cylinders and brake lines can all remain attached without the loss of any brake fluid.
Photo TR-06
TR-05 TR-06
1. Remove the Drain Plug & drain the oil from the transmission. Photo TR-09
3. Remove the Retaining Ring that secures the Reverse Idler Dowel Pin on the outside
of the Cover. Photo TR-10
4. Tap the Dowel pin back into the transmission far enough to free it from the Side
Cover. You will need a drift punch to tap it below the surface of the cover. TR-11
TR-09 TR-10
TR-11 TR-12
6. Position the transmission to remove the Retaining Ring on the Output Shaft of the
Housing side. Photo TR-13
TR-13 TR-14
All retaining rings, spacers & seals need to be replaced during a transmission
rebuild. It is usually recommended to replace all bearings as well. Bearings should
only be reused if the technician has determined to his/her own satisfaction that they
are okay to reuse.
Separating the Side Cover on Transmissions Manufactured Prior to Serial Numbers:
25631GU,
25668HU
25700MU
8. With a dead blow mallet, alternate between striking the Input Shaft and Output Shaft
until the Cover begins to separate from the Housing. Continue until the Cover is
completely free of the Housing. In most cases the differential will remain with the
Cover. Photo TR-15 & 16
TR-15 TR-16
TR-17 TR-18
TR-19 TR-20
Make sure that the bolts threaded into the Cover are long enough to guarantee that the
Cover will completely separate itself from the Housing and may be easily lifted off by
hand. In most cases, with this type of separation, the differential will remain within the
Housing. Photo TR-20 Remove the differential from the Housing as described in step 8.
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12. Remove the Shifter Assembly. Locate the Plug Plate on the Housing side and with a
hammer and punch, knock the Plug Plate through at the center until the Shifter
Assembly is freed from the Bearing. Photo TR-21
13. If the 101-01 Bearing has remained on the Input Shaft it will be necessary to remove
it using a gear puller. Photo TR-22 & 23
14. Slip the Reverse Idler gear from the ½” Dowel Pin. Photo TR-24
TR-21 TR-22
TR-23 TR-24
TR-26 TR-27
Some transmissions may have (2) Shims instead of (1). In rare cases there may be none
used. In any case, when reassembling, use the same amount as were used originally.
18. Using a soft faced hammer, tap the Input Shaft out of the Housing. Photo TR-28
19. Place the Housing in the assembly fixture to remove all Bearings, Retaining Rings,
Seals and the Plug Plate.
TR-28 TR-29
21. Knock the outer Bearing from the Housing using a hammer and drift punch. Tap
around the perimeter of the Bearing through the backside of the housing to ensure
that it will not bind . Photo TR-30
TR-30 TR-31
23. Flip the Housing over to remove the outer Retaining Ring. Photo TR-32
24. Using the drift punch and hammer remove the inner Bearing in the same manner as
in step 20. Photo TR-33
IMPORTANT
IMPORT
When removing this Bearing, take note of the number of Shims that were installed
behind it. This may vary from 1 to 2 shims. In any case, be sure to install the same
amount as was used previously. Photo TR-34
25. Flip the transmission and remove the inner Retaining Ring. Photo TR-35
TR-32 TR-33
TR-34 TR-35
26. Remove the inner Seal with a hammer and drift punch. Photo TR-36
27. If the transmission you are disassembling still has the differential assembly in the
Side Cover as described in step 8, it will have to be removed from the Cover using
an arbor press. First you must remove the Retaining Ring and Shim washer from
the Output Shaft. Photo TR-37 & 38
28. Supporting the Cover on each side with 2 short 2x4’s, place it in an arbor press and
apply pressure to the Output Shaft. Press the differential from the Cover.
Photo TR-39
29. Place the Cover into the assembly fixture and remove all Bearings, Seals & Retain-
ing Rings in a similar manner as performed on the housing. There are 2 plug plates
in the Cover side compared to the single one used in the Housing.
There are no Shims used behind the inner Bearing of the Cover
TR-36 TR-37
TR-38 TR-39
IMPORTANT
IMPORT
Transmissions manufactured from Oct of 2000 have had a design change to the Side
Cover. This new Side Cover begins on vehicles manufactured from serial numbers:
This Side Cover no longer requires the 31-07 plug or the 106-01 Retaining Ring. The
Side Cover has been cast and machined in this area to eliminate the need for both of
these parts. The cover will replace all earlier side covers. Photo TR-40 The
procedure for removing the 101-01 Bearings will require the use of an internal style
of puller as described below.
TR-40 TR-41
TR-43 TR-44
33. Take a piece of flat stock with a hole drilled to the center and slip it on to the
threaded adjustment rod of the puller. Secure it with a nut. Photo TR-44
34. Flip the Cover on the assembly jig so that the 101-01 Bearings are facing down.
Photo TR-45
35. Use a mallet to strike the flat stock and knock the 101-01 Bearing from the casting.
Photo TR-46
TR-46
TR-45
37. Place the Shifter Assembly into the arbor and press the Splined Shaft from the
101-01 Bearing and the Double Gear. Photo TR-48
Be aware of the Ball & Spring within the Double Gear when pressing the spline shaft from
the assembly.
38. Turn the Splined Shaft to the other end to remove the 101-01 Bearing and Drive
Gear. Photo TR-49
TR-48 TR-49
TR-51
When removing the 3 fasteners that secure
the differential's Gear Plate and Aluminum
cage together, earlier transmissions may also have a lockwasher
installed. If this is the case, when reassembling the differential,
eliminate the lockwashers and use Red 271 LOCTITE on both the
threads of the fastener as well as on the internal threads of the
aluminum cage.
41. Hold the Output Shaft from turning while removing the 3 Fasteners that hold the
Gear Plate and Aluminum Cage together. Photo TR-52
42. With the Fasteners removed, gently tap the Gear Plate from the Aluminum Cage
using a soft faced mallet. Photo TR-53
TR-52 TR-53
When lifting the Gear Plate from the Cage, be aware of any Pinions that may come
with the Gear Plate. Avoid any of these falling to the floor. Any damage to these
pinions can result in reduction of gear life or noise issues.
44. Remove the Retaining Ring that secures the Sun Gear to the Output Shaft on the
Aluminum Cage side. Photo TR-55
TR-54 TR-55
45. Slip the Sun Gear from the Output Shaft. Photo TR-56
46. Remove the Retaining Ring that secures the second Sun Gear to the Output Shaft on
the Gear Plate side. Photo TR-57
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TR-56 TR-57
TR-59 TR-60
TR-61
TR-62 TR-63
50. Remove all (12) Oilite Bushings from both Cage and Gear Plate using a bushing
removal tool. This procedure will also push out the Output Shaft Bearing that has
more than likely remained assembled to both of these components.
Photo TR-63, 64 & 65
51. Remove the Bearing from the Input Shaft. Place the Input Shaft into an aluminum
jawed vise, lightly clamping it to the High Gear. The vise, need only make contact
with the gear. Being the Bearing is slightly larger in diameter than the High Gear,
the vise jaws will hold the bearing up while gently tapping the Input Shaft down
with a soft faced mallet. Photo TR-66
TR-64 TR-65
TR-66
TR-67
Always exercise extreme caution when using compressed air. Compressed air can be
potentially dangerous causing serious injury or even death if misused.
Mechanical transmissions do not need a great deal of maintenance beyond periodic and
regular oil changes. However, once a problem has been detected and the transmission has
been disassembled, it is important to examine all transmission components for wear,
cracks or breakage. Repairing or replacing all faulty components will prevent further
premature breakdowns and the need to disassemble the transmission again in the near
future.
Inspect all transmission components and look for Broken or badly worn teeth
Worn out or seized up bearings
Badly worn spline shafts
Cracks in the transmission housing or cover
Gear Wear
Normal Wear
As gears operate, the meshing operation and oil wash will polish the gear teeth, removing
any sharp edges, imperfections or shards. The polished surface should cover the entire
length and depth of the teeth. Well lubricated gears will show this condition after many
hours of operation.
The initial 25 hrs of operation on a new transmission will indicate this process when the
oil is changed for the first time. The oil will appear very silvery and fine metal filings will
be noticeable on the drain plug's magnet.
Metal particles which flake off gears, shafts and castings are carried in the lubricant and
can cause uneven and premature wear to gear teeth. Thorough cleaning of all components
at disassembly and fresh transmission oil can normally prevent further wear of this kind.
Breakage
Any gear or spline shaft with cracked, broken or missing teeth should be replaced
immediately. The installation of a badly damaged gear or shaft will lead to premature
wear of other components and other potential breakdowns.
Replace all badly worn, broken or missing components immediately with genuine ARGO
replacement parts.
If there is any doubt as to whether the transmission component needs replacing, generally
the best thing to do is to replace it while the job is at hand.
Aluminum Cage
Bearings
TR-68
Unless the ARGO technician has determined
to his/her own satisfaction that the bearings are suitable to reuse, it is recommended that
all bearings be replaced when rebuilding a transmission.
This chart indicates changes to some of the transmission components since 1992. Most,
if not all are fully exchangeable if your original part is no longer available. When or-
dering replacement parts, begin by referring to the correct parts manual for your year and
model of ARGO. If the component is no longer listed in your Spare Parts Price List
(Distributors & Dealers Only), check the Superceded Section for the correct part(s) that
replace(s) the original.
34-81 Output Shaft Jul 07/1999 The output shaft and brake discs are
610-24H Brake Disc now splined eliminating the need for the 110-14
810-01 Brake Disc keys. Older stock is still available.
From Serial Numbers:
Fully Exchangeable but both shaft and disc need to
CB16459 TB Oct. 27/99 be replaced together. Refer to the appropriate illus-
RB16446TB Oct. 26/99 trated parts manual for the new part numbers.
BF11143 TB Oct. 21/99
S11188 TB Nov. 17/99
SN11196 TB Nov. 17/99
Shift Gate (New) Jun 12/2000 Reason for Change -To limit the possi-
bility of the transmission coming out of gear in
From Serial Numbers:
certain situations.
SN11905 TB Oct. 4/00
S11906 TB Oct. 4/00
BF11917 TB Oct. 10/00
CB17471 YB Oct. 12/00
RB17525 Oct. 24/00
Transmission Cover Aug 11/2000 The side cover is cast solid in the area
of the input shaft and shifter assembly at the 101-01
From Serial Numbers: bearings. This eliminates the need for the 31-07 plug
plates & 106-01 retaining rings normally used here.
SN11905 TB Oct. 4/00 Fully Exchangeable.
S11906 TB Oct. 4/00
BF11917 OB Oct. 10/00
CB17471 YB Oct. 12/00
RB17525 TB Oct. 24/00
Reverse Idler (34-16A) July 3, 2001 Reverse Idler has two 105-03 bushings
instead of a single, 105-05 bushing, along with two
radial holes drilled in for better lubrication. Fully
From vehicles manufac- Exchangeable
tured from July 3, 2001
Shim Washer between Apr 16/2002 To address the issue of the retaining ring
Housing and Shifter Assy. in some cases, popping off of the shift yoke due to
interference on the casting.
Transmission Assembly
Assembling the Differential
1. Secure the Aluminum Cage to the base of the arbor press using a spacer and nut.
Photo TR-69
2. Install (6) Oilite Bushings into the Aluminum Cage. Photo TR70
3. Repeat the process installing these bushings into the appropriate Gear Plate. Photo
TR-71
The (3) Gear Plates used are:
M-Gear Plate
H-Gear Plate
G-Gear Plate
4. Blow all foreign debris from the Cage and Gear Plate. Photo TR-72
TR-69 TR-70
TR-71 TR-72
5. Install a Bearing into both Cage and Gear plate. Photo TR-73 & 74
6. Wipe the Output Shaft free of debris with a lint free rag. Install this Output
Shaft into the Aluminum Cage. Photo TR-75 & 76
See Transmission Component Changes chart on page TR-25 regarding output shafts.
TR-73 TR-74
TR-75 TR-76
7. Orient the Sun Gear as in Photo TR-78 with the higher shoulder side facing up.
Install it to the splined end of the Output Shaft. Photo TR-79 & 80
9. Be sure the Retaining Ring is properly seated to the machined groove of the Output
Shaft. Photo TR-82 Press the Output Shaft from the inside of the cage to seat the
Retaining Ring snuggly against the Sun Gear. Photo TR-83
TR-78 TR-79
TR-80 TR-81
TR-82 TR-83
10. Wipe down the 2nd Output Shaft and assemble to the Gear Plate using the same
method as described for the Aluminum Cage. Photo TR-84, 85 & 86
TR-84 TR-85
TR-86 TR-87
11. Orient the 2nd Sun Gear as in instruction 8 and install and secure it with a 107-04
Retaining Ring using the same method as described for the Aluminum Cage in in-
struction 10. Photo TR-87, 88, 89 & 90
TR-88 TR-89
TR-90 TR-91
12. Set the assembled Aluminum Cage into an assembly stand or an aluminum jawed
vise Photo TR-91
13. Install (6) Pinions into the Oilite Bushings of the Aluminum Cage alternating the
Pinions in an up and down manner as shown in Photo TR-92 & 93
14. LOCTITE the (3) threaded holes of the Aluminum Cage with Red 271 LOCTITE.
Photo TR-94
15. Assemble the Gear Plate to the Aluminum Cage. Align the top of the Pinions in the
Cage, with the Oilite Bushings in the Gear Plate. Photo TR-95 & 96
TR-92 TR-93
TR-94 TR-95
16. Seat the Gear Plate to the Aluminum Cage using a soft faced mallet. Photo TR-97
17 Apply Red 271 LOCTITE to each of the (3) fasteners, Photo TR- 98, and tighten
down. Torque to specifications. Photo TR-99 & 100
TR-96 TR-97
TR-98 TR-99
TR-100
18. Locate the Spline Shaft and assemble the appropriate Drive Gear to the splined end
of it. Orient the gear with the machined side down. Photo TR-101, 102 & 103
19. Place a Double Gear into the assembly stand or an aluminum jawed vise on the work
bench. Place it into the stand with the machined hole side up. Photo TR-104 &
105
20. Install a Spring to the inner hole of the Double Gear. Photo TR-106 & 107
TR-101 TR-102
TR-103 TR-104
TR-105 TR-106
TR-107 TR-108
TR-109
22. Compress the Ball Bearing into the hole of the Double Gear with a flat screwdriver,
at the same time inserting the Spline Shaft from the opposite side with the shift gate
notches facing down. These notches will mate with the Ball Bearing within the
Double Gear when the shifter assembly is completed. Photo TR-110, 111 & 112
(following page.)
TR-110 TR-111
TR-112 TR-113
23. Use a soft face mallet to tap the Spline Shaft completely through the Double Gear.
Photo TR-113 & 114
24. Remove the assembly to the bench. Grabbing the Double Gear in your hands, shift
the Double Gear up and down the length of the Spline to check that all shift gates
are smooth and lock securely. Photo TR-115
TR-114 TR-115
26. Install the Bearing into the Side Cover with the arbor press. Seat it to the previously
installed Retaining Ring. Photo TR-118 & 119
TR-116 TR-117
TR-118 TR-119
IMPOR
IMPORTTANT
Vehicles Manufactured prior to S/N
CB17471, RB17525, BF11917, SN11905 & TR-120
S11906 require 2 retainings rings to be
installed to the cover first before the
bearings are pressed into place.
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TR-121 TR-122
28. Install a Retaining Ring to the inner groove of the Housing’s Output Shaft side.
Photo TR-123 & 124
29. Install a Retaining Ring into the Housing at the shifter assemblies bearing side.
Photo TR-125 & 126
TR-123 TR-124
TR-125 TR-126
30. Apply 592 LOCTITE Teflon pipe sealant to the Magnetic Oil Drain Plug and install
it into the housing. Tighten only snug into Housing. Photo TR-127 & 128
TR-127 TR-128
31. Tap a burnishing tool through the shifter assembly's Oilite Bushing if the old bushing
has been replaced with a new one Photo TR-129
32. Place a Shim Washer on top of the previously installed Retaining Ring in the Hous-
ing’s Output Shaft side. Photo TR-130 & 131 (This may vary between 1 or 2
shims. Use the quantity previously used.)
33. Install the Bearing to the top of the shim and seat with the arbor press. Photo TR-
132 & 133
34. Install (1) Bearing, shielded side down, into the Housing’s Shifter Assembly side.
Photo TR-134 & 135 (following Page)
TR-129 TR-130
TR-131 TR-132
TR-133 TR-134
TR-135 TR-136
35. Install the 34-63 Shifter Yoke to the 34-65 Shifter Assembly securing it with a 107-
05 Retaining Ring. Photo TR-136, 137 & 138
TR-137 TR-138
36. Install the 113-01 “O” ring to the 34-65 Shifter Assembly. Photo TR-139 & 140
(following page)
37. From the inside of the Housing, slip the Shifter Assembly through the Oilite Bushing
at the top of the Housing. Photo TR-141 (following page). Any transmission being
serviced and rebuilt between Serial Numbers: CB17471 - CB19432, RB17525 - RB19441,
BF11917 - BF13347, SN11905 - SN13349, or S11906 - S13350, would benefit from having this
new 108-74 shim washer installed at the time of the rebuild. Even though this may not have
been an issue, it will be a good precautionary measure for the future. Photo TR-142
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TR-139 TR-140
TR-142
TR-141
38. Orient and secure the Shift Lever Holder to the Shift Shaft using (2) Roll Pins as
shown in Photo TR-143. Be sure to support the shaft from below with a piece of
metal stock when hammering the pins through the Holder. Photo TR-144
TR-143 TR-144
39. Insert the Dowel Pin into the boss of the transmission housing and using a soft face
mallet, tap it flush to the sealing edge of the housing. Photo TR-145
TR-145
41. Attach the Shifter Lever assembly temporarily to the Holder. Photo TR-147
42. Place the Housing into a fixture for final assembly. Photo TR-148
TR-147 TR-148
TR-149
44. Place the Differential into the Housing, slipping the Output Shaft into the Output
Shaft Bearing. Press at the arbor until the shoulder of the Aluminum Cage is seated
to the Bearing. Photo TR-150, 151 & 152
45. Take the pre-assembled Shifter Assembly and place the Double Gear into the high
gear gate on the spline (Lowest Position). Photo TR-153
TR-150 TR-151
TR-152 TR-153
TR-155
TR-156
TR-159
TR-158
49. If the old bushing(s) was/were replaced with new, press a burnishing tool through
the Oilite Bushing of the Reverse Idler.
Photo TR-159 & 160
50. Slip the Reverse Idler on to the Dowel Pin making sure that the chamfer side is
facing down. Photo TR-161, 162 & 163
TR-160 TR-161
TR-162 TR-163
51. While one hand holds the top of the Shifter Assembly, Use the other to shift the
Lever through all gates. Check that all shift smoothly. Photo TR-164
52. Spin the entire assembly at the Output Shaft to check for any tight spots or unusual
noises. Photo TR-165
TR-164 TR-165
53. Apply Black 598 LOCTITE RTV Silicon Gasket Maker to the bottom half of the
Housing. Photo TR-166
54. Install the Cover Gasket to the sealing edge of the Housing. Photo TR-167
TR-166 TR-167
55. Apply the same gasket compound to the lower edge of the Side Cover as well.
Photo TR-168 (following page)
56. Install the Cover to the Housing and press to fit. Photo TR-169,170 & 171 When
applying pressure to the cover at the press, use a soft faced mallet to tap the top end
of the cover at the same time to ensure that the cover is not installed crooked. Photo
TR-172 & 173 (following page)
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TR-168 TR-169
TR-170 TR-171
TR-172 TR-173
57. Secure the Cover using (1) Cap Screw, (4) Bolts and (4) Lock Washers. Apply
LOCTITE Silver Grade anti-seize to the cap screw before installing to the lower end
of the transmission assembly. Photo TR-174 & 175
TR-174 TR-175
58. Secure the Cover and torque to specifications. Photo TR-176 & 177
TR-176 TR-177
59. Press the inner Oil Seal to the Output Shaft. Seat it to the Retaining Ring that was
previously installed in the Housing in step 29. Do not over press. Photo TR-179,
180 & 181
60. Install a Retaining Ring to the top of the Oil Seal. Photo TR-182 & 183
TR-179 TR-180
TR-181 TR-182
TR-183
61. Press the outer Sealed Bearing into the Side Cover and seat it to the Retaining Ring.
Photo TR-184, 185 & 186
62. Rotate the transmission assembly and repeat steps 59-61 to the Housing side.
TR-184 TR-185
TR-186 TR-187
63. Place the transmission back into the rotating fixture and thread the output shaft
puller on to the Output Shaft. Photo TR-187
64. While holding the Output Shaft with the specialized tool holder, thread the hex head
bolt into the Output Shaft and tighten it down until the shaft has been pulled towards
the outside of the Housing. Pull the shaft far enough to install the Shim Washer and
Retaining Ring to the machined groove of the Output Shaft. Photo TR-188, 189,
190 & 191 (following Pages)
IMPORTANT
IMPORT
Output Shaft Shims come in two thicknesses. Generally, the .040" Shim Washer is
installed on the cover side, and the .020" Shim Washer, is installed on the Housing
Side. However, there may be cases when only the thinner of the two washers fit on
the Cover Side and rare cases when the Output Shafts receive no Shim Washers at all
TR-188 TR-189
TR-190 TR-191
65. Rotate the transmission to access the Input Shaft side of the transmission. Photo
TR-192
66. Seat the Reverse Idler Pin's Retaining Ring to the pin boss located in the transmis-
sion Housing. Through the Input Shaft opening, use a hammer and pin installer to
tap the Reverse Idler Pin through the boss and out the Transmission Cover side.
Seat the Retaining Ring to the boss. Photo TR-193 & 194
TR-192 TR-193
TR-194 TR-195
67. Rotate the Transmission and secure the opposite end of the Reverse Idler Pin with a
2nd Retaining Ring. Photo TR-195
68. Once the Retaining Ring has been secured to the Cover Side, use a hammer and tap
the pin back in the opposite direction to seat the Retaining Ring to the Cover. Photo
TR-196
TR-196 TR-197
69. Wipe off the Input Shaft with a lint free rag to remove any oil and debris and insert it
into the Input Shaft opening. Use a soft faced mallet to seat the Input Shaft to the
Bearing on the Cover Side. Photo TR-197, 198 & 199
TR-198 TR-199
70. Rotate the Input Shaft to check that it turns freely. Photo TR-200
71. Place the Input Bearing over the Input Shaft and seat it with a soft faced mallet and
installation tool. Photo TR-201, 202 & 203
TR-200 TR-201
TR-202 TR-203
72. Place (1) Shim Washer on top of the previously installed Bearing. Photo TR-204
A transmission may utilize either 1 or 2 shims here. When reassembling, always
install the original quantity.
73. Install and seat the Retaining Ring. Photo TR-205 & 206
TR-204 TR-205
TR-206 TR-207
TR-208 TR-209
TR-211
TR-212 TR-213
76. Place the transmission on the bench and perform a final shift through all gears.
77. Fill with .805 Litres of 80/90 Gear Oil. Photo TR-213
1. Locate the dash support and move it 90 degrees so that it will not interfere when
installing the transmission back into the vehicle. Photo TR-214
2. Place the transmisson back into the power pack frame of the vehicle and install both
mounting bolts. Apply blue 242 LOCTITE to the threads of the bolts and secure
with a lockwasher and nut. Torque to specifications. Photo TR-215
TR-214 TR-215
3. Next install the driven clutch guard. Apply blue 242 LOCTITE to the 2 mounting
bolts and secure tightly. Torque to specifications. Photo TR-216
4. Reposition the dash support back down to the top of the transmission and
tighten. Photo TR-217
TR-216 TR-217
IMPOR
IMPORTTANT
A small number of vehicles used a shim washer in behind the brake disc. This shim
washer will need to be installed to the output shaft before the brake disc is slipped
on. This is required to align the brake disc to the hydraulic caliper properly. Take
note of the transmission serial number to correctly identify these vehicles.
All 6 wheel hydraulic brake vehicles with serial numbers between BF11321 & BF11390
All 8 wheel vehicles with serial numbers between RB16700 & CB16778
SECTION TR
Supplement Pages
Transmission Re & Re
34-100 Series
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PH.(519)- 662-2840 FAX (519)- 662-2421 TR-1A
Transmission Argo Service Manual
1. Drain oil and unthread the 4 fasteners securing the shifter lever assembly to top end
of the transmission and remove the lever. Photo TR-1 & 2
TR-1 TR-2
2. Remove all fasteners securing the housing halves together. There are 11 located on
the input shaft side and 4 located on the opposite side. Ensure that all fasteners have
been removed before proceeding to seperate the transmission housings.
3. Remove the oil seal from the input shaft. Photo TR-3
4. Remove the retaining ring from the input shaft. Photo TR-4
TR-3 TR-4
5. Remove the retaining rings from both output shafts. There may or may not
be shims below the retaining rings. Photo TR-5
Separating the Transmission
6. There are 3 threaded tab locations provided on the Avenger transmission housing
(input shaft side). These locations are used to assist in separating the two halves of
the transmission during disassembly. As 3 bolts are threaded into the housing, they
come into contact with the opposite housing, pushing and separating the 2 halves.
7. Pull the housing halve, up and off from the input shaft side. Photo TR-7
TR-5 TR-6
TR-7 TR-8
8. Shift to top position.(High Gear) and remove roll pin from the shift block on the
high/low shift shaft. Photos TR-8 & 9
TR-9
TR-10 TR-11
TR-13 TR-14
TR-15 TR-16
TR-17 TR-18
17. Using an arbor press, remove the smaller ball bearing from the end of the
input shaft. Photo TR-19
18. Remove the retaining ring at the reverse gear. Photo TR-20
TR-19 TR-20
19. Remove the reverse and low gear from the input shaft at the arbor press.
Photo TR-21
20. Slip the dog clutch from the input shaft and remove the retaining ring & Thrust
Washer found above the High Gear. Photo TR-22
21. Slip the high gear from the input shaft, PhotoTR-22 and remove the thrust washer
and Retaining Ring found below it. Photo TR-23
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TR-22
TR-21
TR-23 TR-24
22. Remove the last ball bearing from the input shaft at the arbor press.
Photo TR-24
Disassemble the Spline Shaft Drive Gear Assembly
23. Remove the bearing and high gear from
the spline shaft at the arbor press.
Photo TR-25
24. Remove low gear, reverse gear, drive
gear and bearing from the spline shaft
using the the arbor press.
Photo TR-26
TR-25
TR-26
26. Press the differential from the housing at the arbor press. Photo TR-28
The use of wood blocks beneath the housing prevents damage to the sealing edge of the
casting as well as provides height for removing the differential
TR-28 TR-29
27. Disassemble the reverse shift shaft block by removing the roll pin securing it to the
shaft. Photo TR-29 & 30
TR-30
28. Remove the 3 steel balls located in the housing, between the hi/lo shift shaft and the
reverse shift shaft. Photo TR-34
TR-34 TR-35
29. To remove the reverse shift shaft and reverse idler gear from the housing, first re-
move the retaining ring located above the reverse idler. Photo TR-35
30. Raise the reverse idler up and remove the retaining ring found below. Photo TR-36
TR-36 TR-37
31. Pull the reverse shift shaft up and free from the housing. Photo TR-37
32. Remove the Steel Dowel Pin from the reverse shift shaft.
IMPOR
IMPORTTANT
There is 1 Thrust Washer to the top side of the reverse idler gear and a Retaining
Thrust Washer to the underside of the reverse idler gear
33. Remove the reverse shift shaft from the housing. Photo TR-38
34. Remove the last ball and spring from the housing. Photo TR-39
TR-38 TR-39
35. Remove all remaining Retaining Rings, Bearings and Seals from both the left and
righthand side housings.
36. Wash and soak all components in a degreasing bath before inspection.
IMPOR
IMPORTTANT
Installing the correct Retaining Ring to each of the components during the assembly
of the Avenger transmission is extremely important. Small variances in retaining
ring sizes can make it difficult at first glance to distinguish these differences. This
could result with the improper placement of a retaining ring to a component.
The 107-02 Retaining Ring is installed to one side of the High Gear Pinion on the
Input Shaft assembly, while the 107-10 Retaining Ring is installed on the other side.
The one Retaining ring is slightly larger. Ensure that each is installed to the correct
retaining ring seat according to the instructions outlined on the following pages.
Caution should also be observed with the 107-04 and 107-12 Retaining Rings. The
107-04(smaller), is used to secure each sun gear to the end of the Output Shafts
within the differential. The 107-12 (larger), is seated just above the Reverse Gear
Pinion on the Input Shaft Assembly. WHEN COMPARING THESE TWO THEY
ARE VERY SIMILAR IN SIZE. IF IN DOUBT, A MEASUREMENT SHOULD BE
TAKEN.
1. Install the 34-109 High Gear to the short side of the 34-112 Splined Shaft. Photo
TR-41
IMPOR
IMPORTTANT
Install the High Gear with the machined shoulder up. See Photo TR-41
2. Press the 101-01 Bearing to the High Gear end of the Splined Shaft with the shielded
side facing out. Photo TR-42
TR-41
TR-42 TR-43
3. Install the 34-110 Low Gear to the opposite side of the Splined Shaft (long side).
Photo TR-43
IMPOR
IMPORTTANT
Install the Low Gear with the machined shoulder up.
4. Slip on the 34-111 Reverse Gear up against the previously installed Low gear.
Photo TR-45
TR-44
IMPOR
IMPORTTANT
The 34-111 Reverse gear must be assembled to the Splined Shaft with the
chamfered teeth side facing up. Photo TR-45
5. Install the 34-123 Drive gear to the top of the previously installed Reverse Gear.
Photo TR-46
TR-46 TR-47
6. Press on the 101-01 bearing to the end of the shaft, shielded side up. Photo TR-47
See assembled component on the following page.
IMPOR
IMPORTTANT
Do not install this 101-01 Bearing to the end of the shaft if the differential assembly
has the high ratio 3.3 Gear Plate. This bearing should be installed to the housing
at the same time as the 101-03 Bearing (step 16 of Assembling Transmission
Components to Housing pg. TR-25). Interference between this Bearing and Gear
Plate teeth will be apparent later on when installing along side the differential
assembly if this is not observed.
TR-48
TR-49
3. Slip the 34-105 High Gear Pinion (with 4 dog teeth), or 34-128 High Gear Pinion
(with 3 dog teeth), up against the Thrust Washer. Photo TR-50
See Note Regarding number of teeth on following page
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TR-14A
Argo Service Manual Transmission
Transmissions manufactured prior to serial #A2856 utilize 4 dog teeth and from
#A2856, 3 dog teeth. Photo TR-50 Orient the the High Gear Pinion with the dog teeth
facing up.
4. Install the second Thrust Washer to the top of the High Gear Pinion. Photo TR-51
TR-50 TR-51
5. Install the 107-10 retaining ring to secure the second thrust washer. Photo TR-52
6. Slip the 34-103 Dog Clutch (4 Tooth, prior to serial #A2856)or 34-127 Dog Clutch (3
tooth, from serial #A2856),to the Input Shaft. Photo TR-53
IMPOR
IMPORTTANT
The Dog Clutch needs to be oriented correctly when assembled to the Input Shaft.
The dogs on one side of the clutch have a small machined shoulder. These dogs
will engage with the Low Gear Pinion so they face away from the previously
installed High Gear Pinion Photo TR-53
TR-52 TR-53
7. Install the 34-106 Low Gear Pinion (4 Tooth, prior to serial #A2856) or 34-129 (3
tooth, from serial #A2856)with the dogs facing towards the previously installed Dog
Clutch. Photo TR-54
8. Press the 34-107 Reverse Gear Pinion on to the Input Shaft and up against the Low
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Gear Pinion. Orient the Reverse Gear Pinion with the chamfered teeth
facing up. Photo TR-55
TR-54 TR-55
9. Secure the Reverse Gear Pinion with a 107-12 Retaining Ring. Photo TR-56
10. Press a 101-01 bearing to the end of the Input Shaft with the shielded side up.
Photo TR-57
TR-56 TR-57
TR-58 TR-59
2. Blow all foreign debris from the Cage and Gear Plate.
5. Install the 101-15 Bearing into both Cage and Gear plate. Photo TR-60 & 61
6. Wipe the 34-98 Output Shaft free of debris with a lint free rag. Install this Output
Shaft into the Aluminum Cage. Photo TR-62 & 63 See Note following page.
TR-60 TR-61
TR-62 TR-63
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Transmission Argo Service Manual
8. Secure the Sun Gear with a 107-04 Snap Ring. Photo TR-68
TR-65 TR-66
TR-67 TR-68
9. Be sure the Retaining Ring is properly seated to the machined groove of the Output
Shaft. Photo TR-69 Press the Output Shaft from the inside of the cage to seat the
Retaining Ring snuggly against the Sun Gear. Photo TR-70
TR-69 TR-70
10. Wipe down the 2nd 34-98 Output Shaft and assemble to the Gear Plate using the same
method as described for the Aluminum Cage. Photo TR-71, 72 & 73
TR-71 TR-72
TR-73 TR-74
11. Orient the 2nd 34-14 Sun Gear as in instruction 8 and install and secure it with a 107-
04 Retaining Ring using the same method as described for the Aluminum Cage in
instruction 10. Photo TR-74, 75, 76 & 77
TR-75 TR-76
TR-77 TR-78
12. Set the assembled 34-122 Aluminum Cage into an assembly stand. Photo TR-78
13. Install (3) 105-23 Hollow Dowl Pins into the mounting holes of the aluminum cage.
Photo TR-79
TR-79 TR-80
14. Install (6) 34-13 Pinions into the Oilite Bushings of the Aluminum Cage alternating the
Pinions in an up and down manner as shown in Photo TR-80 & 81
TR-81 TR-82
TR-83 TR-84
16. Assemble the Gear Plate to the Aluminum Cage. Align the top of the Pinions in the
Cage, with the Oilite Bushings in the Gear Plate. Photo TR-82 & 83
17. Seat the Gear Plate to the Aluminum Cage using a soft faced mallet. Photo TR-84
18 Apply Red 271 LOCTITE to each of the (3) 112-143 fasteners, Photo TR- 85, and
tighten down to 35 FT/LBS. Photo TR-86
TR-85 TR-86
1. Apply some LOCTITE pipe sealant to the threads of the 103-02 drain plug and in-
stall into the housing. Photo TR-87 & 88
TR-87 TR-88
2. Start the 34-114 Reverse Shift Shaft into the housing boss as illustrated in
Photo TR-89.
3. Place a 108-78 Thrust washer above the 34-108 Reverse Idler, and a 108-81 Retain-
ing Thrust Washer (machined side down), below the Reverse Idler. Push the 34-114
Reverse Shift Shaft completely through the Reverse Gear and washers and into the
opposite side of the housing. Install the Reverse gear with the chamfered teeth fac-
ing up. Photo TR-90 & 91
TR-89 TR-90
5. Install the 34-32 Spring into the machined hole of the 34-102 Right Hand Housing at
the Reverse Shift Shaft location. Photo TR-92
6. Install the 109-05 Steel Ball to the top of the Spring. Photo TR-93
7. Push down on the Steel Ball using the access hole from the top of the Transmission
Housing. While the ball is compressed, press the shaft over top of the ball.
Photo TR-94
TR-91 TR-92
TR-93 TR-94
IMPOR
IMPORTTANT
Transmissions Manufactured From Serial Number A3784, require a 113-16
O-Ring installed to the machined groove located near the end of the reverse shift
shaft and require these extra steps to install it.
i Continue to push the reverse shift shaft through the housing until the machined
groove for the O-ring location is visible to the outside of the housing. Photo TR94A
ii Install the 113-16 O-ring to the groove and apply some oil lubrication. Photo TR94B
TR-94A TR-94B
iii Push the reverse shift shaft back through the housing ensuring that you don't damage
the O-ring as re-enters the housing.
8. Pull the Reverse Shift Shaft up until the lower retaining ring groove location is visible.
shaft is Photo TR-95
9. Install the 107-11 Retaining Ring onto the Reverse Shift Shaft. Photo TR-96 & 97
TR-95 TR-96
10. Lower the Reverse Idler Gear and install the second 107-11 Retaining Ring to the
machined groove at the top of the Reverse Idler Gear. Photo TR-98 & 99
TR-97 TR-98
11. Insert a tool, eg. an allen wrench, into the machined hole of the Reverse Shift Shaft
and turn the shaft until the keyways of both shaft and transmission boss are aligned.
Photo TR-100
TR-99 TR-100
12. Install the 104-40 Dowel Pin to secure the Reverse Shift Shaft. Photo TR-101
13. Assemble the 34-115 Reverse Shift Block to the Reverse Shift Shaft by aligning the
keyway with the previously installed Dowel Pin. Photo TR-102
TR-101 TR-102
14. Tap the Shift Block on until the machined hole in both the Reverse Shift Shaft and
the Shift Block are aligned, then install the 104-39 Spring Pin. Photo TR-103, 104
& 105
Install the Roll Pin flush to the machine corner of the shift block as shown in Photo TR-
105
TR-103 TR-104
TR-105 TR-106
15. Install a 106-03 Retaining Ring to top groove of the Housing. Photo TR-106
16. Press and install the 101-03 bearing into the Housing. Photo TR-107 & 108
TR-107 TR-108
If the differential consists of the high ratio 3.3 Gear Plate, it will be advantages to install
the 101-01 Bearing into the cover as well at this point to avoid any interference later
when installing the assembled Idler Gear Bore Assembly. See IMPORTANT on page
TR-13
17. Press the assembled differential into the Housing. Photo TR-109 & 110
18. Install the Idler Gear Bore Assembly at the arbor press. Photo TR-111 & 112
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TR-109
TR-110 TR-111
TR-113
TR-112
TR-115 TR-116
21. Align the middle gate in the Hi/Lo Shift Shaft with the access hole in the casting and
install a 109-05 Steel Ball and 34-32 Spring. Photo TR-116, 117 & 118
TR-117 TR-118
TR-120 TR-121
TR-122 TR-123
25. Place the transmission into the neutral position. Photo TR-123
26. Secure the Hi/Lo Shift Fork to the Shift Shaft using a 104-39 Spring Pin.
Photo TR-124
TR-124 TR-125
27. Install a 106-03 Retaining Ring to the top groove of the 34-101 Left Transmission
Housing at the output shaft opening, and a 106-05 Retaining ring at the input shaft
opening Photo TR-125
28. Place a 114-01 shim to the top of the 106-03 Retaining Ring.
28. Press a 101-03 & 101-16 Bearing into the Left Transmission Housing. Photo TR-
126
29. Apply Black 598 LOCTITE RTV Silicon Gasket Maker around the perimeter of the
Transmission Housing
30. Press the Left Hand Housing to the Right Hand Housing at the arbor press. Tap with
a soft face mallet while pressing at the output shaft area. This will ensure that the
housing is pressed on squarely and evenly to the lower half. Photo TR-127
TR-126 TR-127
31. Secure the halves of the transmission together using (10) 112-143, (1) 112-144 fas-
teners & (11) 108-05 lockwashers installed from the left side of the Housing. Three
(3) 112-143, (1) 112-144 fasteners and (4) 108-05 lockwashers are installed from the
right side of the Housing. Photo TR-128 Torque to 20FT-LBS
Two of these fasteners are shorter and are assembled into the transmission casting at
blind holes. One is assembled at the drain plug area from the left side of the housing,
Photo TR-129, and the other at the Shifter Lever area from the right side of the
housing. Photo TR-130
TR-128 TR-129
TR-131
TR-130
35. Install the 102-05 Oil Seal to the Input Shaft. Photo TR-131 & 132
36. Install the 102-03 Oil Seal to the Output Shaft. Seat below the Retaining Ring groove.
Photo TR-133 & 134
37. Seat a 106-03 Retaining ring to the machined groove just above the previously in-
stalled Oil Seal.
Photo TR-135
TR-132 TR-133
TR-134
TR-135
38. Install a 101-05 Bearing to the Output Shaft. Photo TR-136 & 137
TR-136 TR-137
TR-138 TR-139
TR-140
TR-141
41. Locate the shift lever opening and place the transmission shift blocks in the neutral
postion. See Photo TR-141
42. Place the 113-11 O-ring into the 34-118 Shifter Plate. Photo TR-142
43. Assemble the 34-117 Shift Lever to the Shifter Plate. Apply a small amount of axle
grease to the ball area of the shifter lever. Photo TR-143
TR-142 TR-143
44. Apply Blue LOCTITE to each of the 112-04 Fasteners and secure the Shift Lever
assembly to transmission. Photo TR-144 & 145
TR-144 TR-145
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TR-146
1 2
2. Interlock the second half of the 107-14 Retaining Ring into the previously installed
one. Photo 3 At the opposite side, squeeze the retaining ring assembly together to lock
and seat securely into the machined groove. Photo 4 & 5
3 4
5 6
9 10
12
11
7. Install the Low Gear Pinion with the dogs facing towards the previously installed Dog
Clutch. Photo 13
8. Slip the Reverse Gear Pinion on to the Input Shaft and up against the Low Gear Pinion.
Orient the Reverse Gear Pinion with the chamfered teeth facing up. Photo 14
13 14
9. Secure the Reverse Gear Pinion with a 107-15 Retaining Ring. Photos 15 & 16
15 16