Nano R3 
Super Starter Kit 
 
 
 

 
 

Table of Contents 
Lesson 1: Installing the Arduino IDE 5 
1.1 Introduction 5 
1.2 Installing Arduino (Windows) 6 
1.3 Installing Arduino (Linux) 9 

Lesson 2: Add Libraries and Open Serial Monitor 12 

2.1 Installing Additional Arduino Libraries 12 
2.2 What are Libraries? 12 
2.3 How to Install a Library 12 
2.4 Importing a .zip Library 14 
2.5 Manual installation 17 
2.6 Arduino Serial Monitor (Windows, Mac, Linux) 18 
2.7 Making a Connection 18 

Lesson 3: Blink 21 

3.1 Overview 21 
3.2 Component Required 21 
3.3 Principle 21 

Lesson 4: LED 30 

4.1 Overview 30 
4.2 Components Required 30 
4.3 Component Introduction 30 
4.4 Connection 33 
4.5 Example picture 34 

Lesson 5: RGB LED 35 

5.1 Overview 35 
5.2 Components Required 35 
5.3 Component Introduction 35 
5.4 Common Anode vs Common Cathode 37 
5.5 How to determine if the LED is common anode or common cathode 38 
5.6 Theory (PWM) 38 
5.7 Connection 39 
5.8 Code 41 
5.9 Example picture 43 

Lesson 6: Digital Inputs 44 

6.1 Overview 44 

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6.2 Components Required 44 

6.3 Component Introduction 44 
6.4 Connection 45 
6.5 Code 46 
6.6 Example picture 47 

Lesson 7: Passive Buzzer 48 

7.1 Overview 48 
7.2 Components Required 48 
7.3 Component Introduction 48 
7.4 Connection 49 
7.5 Code 50 
7.6 Example picture 50 

Lesson 8: Tilt Ball Switch 51 

8.1 Overview 51 
8.2 Components Required 51 
8.3 Component Introduction 51 
8.4 Connection 52 
8.5 Code 53 
8.6 Example picture 53 

Lesson 9: Ultrasonic Sensor Module 54 

9.1 Overview 54 
9.2 Components Required 54 
9.3 Component Introduction 54 
9.4 Connection 56 
9.5 Code 57 
9.6 Example picture 57 

Lesson 10: IR Receiver Module 58 

10.1 Overview 58 
10.2 Components Required 58 
10.3 Component Introduction 58 
10.4 Connection 60 
10.5 Code 61 
10.6 Example picture 61 

Lesson 11: Controlling LEDs with the remote 63 

11.1 Overview 63 
11.2 Components Required 63 
11.3 Connection 64 

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11.4 Code 65 

11.5 Example picture 65 

Lesson 12: DC Motors 66 

12.1 Overview 66 
12.2 Components Required 66 
12.3 Component Introduction 66 
12.4 Connection 68 
12.5 Code 69 
12.6 Example picture 70 

Lesson 13: Relay 71 

13.1 Overview 71 
13.2 Components Required 71 
13.3 Component Introduction 71 
13.4 Connection 73 
13.5 Code 74 
13.6 Example picture 74 

Lesson 14: Controlling DC motor with the remote 75 

14.1 Overview 75 
14.2 Components Required 75 
14.3 Component Introduction 75 
14.4 Connection 76 
14.5 Code 77 
14.6 Example picture 77 

Lesson 15: Eight LED with 74HC595 78 

15.1 Overview 78 
15.2 Components Required 78 
15.3 Component Introduction 78 
15.4 Connection 80 
15.5 Code 81 
15.6 Example picture 83 

Lesson 16: The Serial Monitor 84 

16.1 Overview 84 
16.2 Steps taken 84 
16.3 Code 86 

Lesson 17: Photocell 89 

17.1 Overview 89 

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17.2 Components Required 89 

17.3 Component Introduction 89 
17.4 Connection 90 
17.5 Code 91 
17.6 Example picture 92 

Lesson 18: Thermometer 93 

18.1 Overview 93 
18.2 Components Required 93 
18.3 Component Introduction 93 
18.4 Connection 94 
18.5 Code 95 
18.6 Example picture 95 

Lesson 19: Four Digits Seven Segments Display 96 

19.1 Overview 96 
19.2 Components Required 96 
19.3 Component Introduction 96 
19.4 Connection 98 
19.5 Code 99 
19.6 Example picture 99 

Lesson 20: Thermometer Display on 4 Digit Seven Segment 100 

20.1 Overview 100 
20.2 Components Required 100 
20.3 Connection 101 
20.4 Code 102 
20.5 Example picture 102 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

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Lesson 1: Installing the Arduino IDE 

1.1 Introduction  
The software of the Arduino device is called The Arduino Integrated Development 
Environment (IDE). 
First, you will learn how to properly setup your computer to use your Arduino device and 
install the software. The IDE that will be used to program your Arduino is available for Windows, 
Linux and Mac, but the installation is not the same for all three. 

 
 
 
 
 
 

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1.2 Installing Arduino (Windows) 

You can download it from this link: 
https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software 
Click on Windows installer, for windows XP and up. 

 
 
Click on JUST DOWNLOAD. 

 
 
 

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Find the file that you downloaded, open it. 

After reading the agreement, click I AGREE. 

 
 
Click on Next. 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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Click on Install. 

 
 
When the setup is finished, click on Close. 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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1.3 Installing Arduino (Linux) 

You can download it from this link: 
https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software 
 
Select Linux 32 bits or Linux 64 bits the one it is compatible with your Linux. 

 
 
Click on JUST DOWNLOAD. 

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Find the file that you downloaded, Right Click on it, and extract the files in a folder of your 
choice. 

 
Right click on the folder and containing the files extracted and go to Properties. 

 
 
 

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Copy the location of the folder. 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Open  a  terminal  and  cd  to  that  location,  List  all  the  files  in  that  folder  using  ls,  And  cd to 
the folder containing the files extracted, And now just type ./install.sh and press Enter. 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
You can close the terminal. 

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Lesson 2: Add Libraries and Open Serial Monitor 

2.1 Installing Additional Arduino Libraries 

By now, you should be familiar with the Arduino software and you may want to explore the 
capabilities of your Arduino with additional libraries. 
 

2.2 What are Libraries? 

Libraries  consist  of  lots  of  code,  written  to  make  it  easier  for  you  to  connect  to  a  sensor, 
display,  module,  etc.  As  an  example,  the  built-in  LiquidCrystal  library  makes  it easy to use LCD 
displays.  On  the  internet,  there  are  hundreds  of  additional  libraries  available  for  download. You 
will need to install those additional libraries in order to use them. 
  

2.3 How to Install a Library 

You  can  install  a  new  library  through  the  Library  Manager  (available  from  IDE  version 
1.8.0). Open the IDE and on the "Sketch" menu, choose Include Library > Manage Libraries. 

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When  the  library  manager  opens,  a  list  of  installed  libraries  will  be  displayed  as  well  as 
those  libraries  that  are  ready  for  installation.  Take  for  example  the  installation  of  the  Bridge 
library.  Look  for  it  in  the  list  and  then  install  the  version  of  the  library  that  you  prefer.  There are 
times that version selection menu does not appear, but that is normal.  

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Click  “Install” and wait for the new library to be installed. Once the process has finished, you can 
see an INSTALLED tag next to the Bridge library.  

The  new  library  can  now  be  located  inside  the  Include Library menu. You can open a new 
issue on Github, if you wish to add your own library.  

2.4 Importing a .zip Library  

Libraries  are  most  frequently  distributed  as  a  ZIP  file  or  folder,  with the name of the folder 
being  the  name  of  the  library.  Inside  the  folder,  it  will  contain  a  .cpp  file,  a  .h  file  and  often  a 
keywords.txt  file,  an  examples folder, and any other files that are required by the library. Starting 
with  version  1.0.5,  3rd  party  libraries  can  be  installed  in  the  IDE,  without  the  need  to  unzip  the 
downloaded library.  

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In the Arduino IDE, click Sketch menu > Include Library. Select "Add .ZIP Library''.  

Next step is you will need to select the library you would like to add. Go to the .zip file's 
location and open it.  

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Go  back  to  the  Sketch  >  Import  Library  menu.  The  library  can  now  be  seen at the bottom 
of  the  menu,  indicating  that  it  is  ready  to  be  used.  The  zip  file  will  be  present  in  the  libraries 
folder in your Arduino sketches directory.  

NB:  The  Library  will  be  available  to  use  in  sketches,  but  examples will be displayed in the 
File > Examples only after the IDE restarts..  

Those two are the most common method, with MAC and Linux systems being handled 
similarly. You can also proceed to manual installation, as presented below, but it is seldom used 
and you may skip it. 

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2.5 Manual installation  

To  install  the  library, first make sure the Arduino application is closed. Extract the files from 
the  ZIP  folder,  you  should  now  have  a  folder  with  the  name  of  the  library,  containing  files  with 
the  extensions  .cpp  and.h  inside,  with  a  few  other  additional  ones.  (In  the  case  that  these  files 
are not there, you need to create them yourself).  

Let’s  take  for  example a library called ArduinoLove. Drag the ArduinoLove folder into your 

libraries  folder.  For  Windows  users,  it usually appears as "My Documents\Arduino\libraries". For 
Mac  and  Linux  users,  it  should  be  the  ‘libraries’  folder  where  your  Arduino  documents  are 
located.  

Your Arduino library folder will be like this (on Windows):  

My Documents\Arduino\libraries\ArduinoLove\ArduinoLove.cpp  
My Documents\Arduino\libraries\ArduinoLove\ArduinoLove.h  
My Documents\Arduino\libraries\ArduinoLove\examples  

or like this (on Mac and Linux):  

Documents/Arduino/libraries/ArduinoLove/ArduinoLove.cpp 
Documents/Arduino/libraries/ArduinoLove/ArduinoLove.h 
Documents/Arduino/libraries/ArduinoLove/examples  

There  are often more files other than the .cpp and .h, you just have to ensure that they can 
be  found  there  (if  you  put  the  .cpp  and  .h  files  directly  into  the  libraries  folder,  the  library  may 
not work or if they're inside an extra folder).  

For example:  

Documents\Arduino\libraries\ArduinoLove.cpp and 
Documents\Arduino\libraries\ArduinoLove\ArduinoLove\ArduinoLove.cpp won't work.  

Restart the Arduino application. The new library should now appear in the  
Sketch->Import Library menu item of the software. Congratulations, you’ve installed a library! 
 

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2.6 Arduino Serial Monitor (Windows, Mac, Linux)  

As  mentioned  in  the  beginning,  the  software  side  of  the  Arduino  platform  is  called  the 
Arduino  Integrated  Development  Environment  (IDE).  In  this  software,  a  serial  terminal  is 
included  because  using  such  terminal  is  such  a  major  part  of  working  with  an  Arduino  or  other 
microcontrollers. The terminal is called the Serial Monitor.  

2.7 Making a Connection  

The  serial  monitor comes with all versions of the Arduino IDE. Click the Serial Monitor icon 
to open it. 

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Choosing  which  port  to  open  in  the  Serial  Monitor  is  very  similar  to  choosing  a  port  for 
uploading your code. To do that, go to Tools -> Serial Port, and select the adequate port.  

Tips: Select the same COM port that you have in your Device Manager.  

Once it is open, you should see something like below:  

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2.8 Settings  
There  are  limited  settings  on  the  Serial  Monitor,  but  enough  to  handle  most  of  serial 
communication  needs..  The  baud  rate  is  the  first  setting  you  can  change.  Choose  the  correct 
baud rate (9600 baud) using the drop-down menu on selecting baud rate. 

 
You can also set the terminal to Autoscroll by checking the box beside the Autoscroll 
option.  

 
Pros  

The Serial Monitor is a quick and easy way to create a serial connection with your Arduino. 
But  if  you  are  already  working  in  the  Arduino  IDE, there’s no need to set up a separate terminal 
to display data.  

Cons  

There is a lack of settings in the Serial Monitor, so it is not suitable for advanced serial 
communications. 

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Lesson 3: Blink 

3.1 Overview  
This chapter will teach you to program the Nano R3 controller board to blink the built-in 
LED in your Arduino and the fundamental steps in downloading programs.  

3.2 Component Required  

1 x Plusivo Nano R3 board 

3.3 Principle  
You  can  find  in  the  Nano  R3  board,  along  both  sides,  the  rows  of  connectors.  These  are 
used  to  connect  to  several  electronic  devices  and  plug-in  'shields'  that  extend  its  capability.  It 
also  has  a  single  LED,  built  onto  the  board,  that  you  can  control  from  your  sketches,.  This  is 
often referred to as the 'L' LED, same as how it is labelled on the board. 

When  you  connect  your  board  to  a  USB  plug,  you  should  see  that  the  'L'  LED  already 
blinks, as the 'Blink' sketch is generally pre-installed on the board. 

In  this  chapter,  we  will  rewrite  our  own  Blink  sketch  and  then  change  the  rate  at  which  it 
blinks. 

In  the  first  lesson,  we  covered  how  to  set  up your Arduino IDE and ensure that you will be 
able  to  find the right serial port for it to connect to your Nano R3 board. Now it is time to test that 
connection and program your Nano R3 board.  

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The  Arduino  IDE  consists  of  a  large  collection  of  example  sketches  that  you  can  load  up 
and use, including an example sketch on how to make the 'L' LED blink.   

In the IDE’s menu system folder, go to File >Examples > 01.Basics and load the 'Blink' 
sketch. 

Enlarge the sketch window to see the entire sketch.  

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The  example  sketches  are  'read-only',  you  can  change  them  but  cannot  be  saved  as  the 
same  file.  Thus,  first  you  have  to  save  your  own  copy  as  a  new  file  since  we  are  going  to 
change this sketch. 

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On the Arduino IDE File menu, select 'Save As..', and save it with filename 'MyBlink'.  

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You have just saved your copy for blinking the ‘L’ LED as ‘MyBlink’ in your sketchbook, 
and when you want to use it you can just open it from the File > Sketchbook menu option.  

Using  USB  cable,  connect  your  Arduino  board  to  your  computer  and  check  that  both  the 
'Board Type' and 'Serial Port' are set correctly. 

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Note: The Board Type and Serial Port shown here may appear differently as the Serial 
Port displayed for everyone is different. COM110 that is shown here may be COM3 or COM4 on 
your computer. The right COM port should be COMX (arduino XXX), chosen according to the 
certification criteria. Also, if you are using 168, the Board type you will have to choose is Mega 
168, or choose the type adequate to your situation. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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The current settings for the board are shown at the bottom corner of the window. 

Click on the 'Upload' button, the second icon on the toolbar.  

 

On the status area of the IDE, a progress bar and a series of messages will be shown. It 
will say 'Compiling Sketch...' in the beginning, indicating that it is converting the sketch into a 
suitable format for uploading to the board. 

Next,  the  status  will  become  'Uploading'.  During  this  time,  the  sketch  is  being  transferred 
and it would cause the LEDs on the Arduino to start flickering  

Lastly, the status will be 'Done uploading'.  

 

There  is also a message that says that the sketch is using 1,052 bytes of the 30,720 bytes 
available. After the 'Compiling Sketch..' stage, the following error message may appear:  

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This can mean that your board is not properly connected, that the necessary drivers have 
not been installed or maybe you selected a wrong serial port. If you encounter this error, you 
should revisit Lesson 10. Once the upload is complete, the board should restart and start 
blinking.  

Please  note  that  a  big  part  of  this  sketch  is  composed  of comments. These are not actual 
program  instructions,  but  an  explanation  on  how  the  program  works.  A  block  comment  is 
everything  between  /*  and  /*,  and  a single line comment is the one that starts with //. Everything 
up until the end of that line is considered a comment. 
Below is the first line of code:  

int led = 13; 

This  code  is  giving  a  name  to  the  pin  where  the  LED  is  attached  to.  On  most  Arduinos, 
including  the  Nano,  UNO  and  Leonardo,  this  is  pin 13.  Then, we have the 'setup' function. This 
is  executed  when  the  reset  button  is  pressed,  and  also  whenever  the  board  resets  for  any 
reason or after a sketch has been uploaded.  

void setup() {  

// initialize the digital pin as an output.  
pinMode(led, OUTPUT);  
}  
 
Every  Arduino  sketch  must  have  a  'setup'  function,  and  you  can  add  other  instructions 
between  the  {  and  the  }  brackets.  In  this  case,  there  is  only  one  command  telling  the  Arduino 
that  we  are  using  the  LED  pin  as  an  output.  To  have  a  ‘loop’  function  is  also  mandatory  for  a 
sketch.  After  a  reset,  the  'loop'  function  will  immediately  start  again  after  it  has finished running 
its commands. This is unlike the 'setup' function that only runs once. 

void loop() {  

digitalWrite(led, HIGH); // turn the LED on (HIGH is the 
voltage level) 
delay(1000); // wait for a second 
digitalWrite(led, LOW);  // turn the LED off by making 
the voltage LOW 
delay(1000); // wait for a second  
} 
 
 

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Inside  the  loop  function,  the  commands  first  turn  the  LED  pin  on  (HIGH),  then  'delay'  for 
1000 milliseconds (1 second), then turn the LED pin off (LOW) and pause for another second.  

To  make  your LED blink faster, you need to change the parameter in the brackets () for the 

'delay' command.  

If  you  want  your  LED  to  blink  twice  as  fast,  change  the  value  from  1000  to  500 
milliseconds.  The  setting  would  then  pause  for  half  a  second  each  delay  rather  than  a  whole 
second.  

Upload the sketch again and your LED should now start to blink more quickly. 

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Lesson 4: LED 

4.1 Overview  
Here, you will learn how to change the brightness of LED using different values of resistors.  

4.2 Components Required 

1 x Nano R3  
1 x BreadBoard 830p 
1 x 5mm red LED  
1 x 220 ohm resistor  
1 x 1k ohm resistor  
1 x 10k ohm resistor  
2 x M-M wires (Male to Male jumper wires) 

4.3 Component Introduction 

BREADBOARD 830p 

In  a  breadboard,  you  can  prototype  your  circuits  quickly  without  the  need  to  solder the connections. You 
can see below an example of a breadboard.  

These  breadboards  has  various  sizes  and  configurations.  They simplest is just a grid of holes in a plastic 

block,  where  strips  of  metal  inside  provide  electrical  connection  between  the  holes  in  the  shorter  rows.  If  you 
push  the  legs  of  two  different  components  into the same row, they will be joined together electrically. The deep 
channel  running  down  the  middle  indicates  a  break  in  connections  there,  which  means  placing  a  chip  in  with 
the legs at either side of the channel does not connect them together. 

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  Some  breadboards  have  two  strips  of  holes  (also  called  rails)  running  along  the  long  edges  of  the  board 
separated  from  the  main  grid,  with  strips  running  down  the  length  of  the  board  inside  that  enable  you  to 
connect at a common voltage. They are usually for +5 volts and ground.  

While  breadboards  are  great  for  prototyping,  they  have  some  limitations  due  to  potential  poor 
connections. Because the connections are temporary, they are not as reliable as soldered connections.  

LED 

LEDs  are  great  for  making  indicator  lights  as  they  use  very  little  electricity  and  they  last  longer.  In  this 
lesson,  the  most  common  of  all  LEDs  will  be  used: a 5mm-diameter red LED (5mm LED). You cannot connect 
it  directly  to  a  battery  or  voltage  source,  as  the  LED  has  a  positive  and  a  negative  lead  and  won’t  light  if 
connected  the  wrong  way  and  a  resistor  must  be  used  with  it  to  limit  the  current  flowing  through  it  so  that  it 
won’t burn out.  

Not  using a resistor with LED will instantly destroyed it, as the excessive current flowing through will harm 
the 'junction' where the light is produced.  

There  are  two  ways  to  identify  the  two  leads  (positive  and  negative)  of  the  LED.  First,  the  longer lead is 
the  positive  lead.  Second,  you  can  see  a  flat  edge  to  the  case  of  the  LED  where  the  negative lead enters the 
body  of  the  LED.  If  you  have  LED  with  flat  side  next  to the longer lead, it can be assumed that the longer lead 
is positive. 

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RESISTORS 

Resistors  resist the flow of electricity, which means higher value of the resistor means that the more it can 
resist  and  less  electrical  current  will  flow through it. We use these to control how much electricity flows through 
the LED and eventually, how brightly the LED will shine.  

The  unit  of  resistance  is  Ohm with symbol Ω, from the Greek letter Omega. We also represent the values 

of resistors in kΩ (1,000 Ω) and MΩ (1,000,000 Ω), called kilo-ohms and mega-ohms. 

In  this  lesson,  three  different  values  of  resistor  will  be  used: 220Ω, 1kΩ and 10kΩ. These have the same 
appearance  but have different colored stripes on them, which indicates the value of the resistor. The color code 
of a resistor is a three-colored stripes and a gold stripe at one end as seen below. 

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Resistors,  unlike  LEDs,  can  be  connected  either  way  as  they  don’t  have  a  positive  and  negative  lead.  If  you 
find  this  colored  lines  method  too  complicated,  you  can  use  a  digital  multimeter  to  determine  the  resistance 
value of a resistor.  

4.4 Connection  
Schematic  

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Wiring diagram  

Plug  your  Nano  (a  convenient  source  of  5  volts)  into  your computer as this will be used to provide power 
to  the  LED  and  the  resistor.  The  LED  should  be  quite  bright  with  the  220  Ω  resistor  in  place.  Alternatively,  by 
using  a  1kΩ  resistor,  the  LED  will  appear  a  little dimmer. Finally, when you use the 10 kΩ resistor, the LED will 
be  barely  visible.  To  notice  the  difference,  you  can  use  the  red  jumber  as  a  switch  by  pulling  the  red  jumper 
lead out of the breadboard, touching it into the hole and immediately removing it. 

Now,  you  have  the  5V  going  to  one  leg  of  the  resistor,  then  the  other  leg  of  the  resistor  going  to  the 
positive  leg  of  the  LED  and  the  other  leg  of  the  LED  going  to  GND.  If  we  reposition  the  resistor  and  place  it 
after  the  LED,  as  shown  below,  the  LED  will  still  light,  because  it  won’t  matter  where  we  put  the  resistor,  on 
either side of the LED, as long as it is there. 

4.5 Example picture  

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Lesson 5: RGB LED 

5.1 Overview  
These  RGB  LEDs  are  a  fun  and  easy  way  to  add  some  color  to  your  projects.  Using  them  is  easy  and 
connecting  them  is  pretty  much  the  same  because  they  are  just  like  3  regular  LEDs  in  one  and  they  mostly 
come in Common Anode or Common Cathode versions. 

The  Common  Anode  connects  to  the  5 V on the common pin and Common Cathode connects to ground. 

Just  like  with  any  LED,  we  need  to  limit  the  current  being  drawn,  so  we  need  to connect some resistors inline 
(3 total).  

In  the  sketch  that  we  will do, we will start in Red color state of the LED, then will fade to Green, then fade 

to Blue and finally back to the Red color state. Through this, we will be able to cycle through most of the colors.  

5.2 Components Required 

1 x Nano R3  
1 x 830p Breadboard  
4 x M-M wires (Male to Male jumper wires)  
1 x RGB LED  
3 x 220 ohm resistors  

5.3 Component Introduction  

RGB  

If  you  take  a  look  at  RGB  (Red,  Green  and  Blue)  LEDs,  they  look  just  like  regular  LEDs.  But  there  are 
actually  three  LEDs  inside  the  usual  LED  package,  one  of  each  of  the  primary  colours  (red,  green, blue). You 
can mix any color that you want by controlling the brightness of each of the individual LEDs. 

How  we  mix  colors  of  the  LED  is  by  adjusting the brightness of each of the three LEDs, just like how you 
mix  paint  on  a palette. Or to use different value resistors or variable resistors, which is the harder way and a lot 
of  work.  Fortunately,  the  analogWrite  function  of  Nano  R3  board  can  be  used  to  output  a  variable  amount  of 
power to the appropriate LEDs.  

 
 

35   
 

In  the  picture  above,  you  can  see  4  electrode LEDs with each pin for the Green, Blue or Red color called 

Anode.  The  Anode  will  always be connected to “+” (power), while Cathode goes to “-“ (ground). The LED won’t 
light  if you connect it the other way. The second pin from the flat side is the common negative connection of the 
LED  package.  You  can  easily  see  it  because  it  is  also  the  longest among the four leads that will be connected 
to  the  ground.  It  is  required  that  each  LED  inside  the  package  will  have  its  own  220Ω  resistor  in  order  to 
prevent  too  much  current  flowing  through  it.  These  resistors  are  used  when  you  connect  the  three  positive 
leads of the LEDs (one red, one green and one blue) to Nano output pins.  

COLOR 

By  varying  the  quantities  of  red,  green  and  blue  light,  you  can  mix  any  color  that  you  like.  Your  eye  has 
three  types  of  light  receptors  (red, green and blue) and together with your brain, they can process the amounts 

36   
 
of red, green and blue and convert it into a color of the spectrum.  

In  a  way,  we  are  playing  a  trick  on  the  eye  by  using  the  three  LEDs. This is also the mechanism used in 
TVs, where the red, green and blue color dots (in LCD) next to each other make a pixel.  

For  example,  the  overall  color  of the light will be white when we set the brightness of all three LEDs to be 

the  same.  By  turning  off  the  blue  LED,  the  light  will be yellow since there are just the red and green LEDs with 
the same brightness. 

We  can  mix  any  color  we like just by controlling the brightness of each of the red, green and blue parts of 

the LED separately.  

Black is the absence of light, thus we can have black when we turn off all three colors of LED.  

5.4 Common Anode vs Common Cathode 

These  two  types  of  RGB  LEDs  do  not  connect  in  the  same  way  even  though  they  look  the  same.  The 
Nano  R3  can  control  both  types  of  LEDs  due  to  its  symmetrical  ability  to  source  and  sink  exactly  the  same 
amount of current. 

Common  Cathode  is  straightforward,  meaning,  having  a  higher  current  means  a  brighter  corresponding 
LED. Here, the current is flowing from the board to the LED and is called Current Sourcing. 

Common  Anode  is  a  bit  different,  which  means,  if  the  current  is  lower,  it  will  result  in  a  brighter 
corresponding LED. Here, the current is flowing from the LED to the board. and is called Current Sinking. 

37   
 

5.5 How to determine if the LED is common anode or common 

cathode 
 

There is no visible difference between the common anode and common cathode, thus, to determine 
which is which is by testing it. 

You may follow these steps to identify if it is a common anode or common cathode: 

● Power up the development board. 

● Have the longest leg of the RGB LED connected to GND. 
● Using a 220 Ω resistor in series, connect QUICKLY (a fraction of a second) one of the legs remaining 
to the 5 V. It is better to mount all of them on a breadboard. 
● It is a COMMON CATHODE if the LED lights, if not, it is COMMON ANODE. 

5.6 Theory (PWM)  

The  technique  for  controlling  power  is  called  Pulse  Width  Modulation  (PWM).  Here,  we  also  use  it  to 
control  the  brightness  of  each  of  the  LEDs.  Shown  in  the  diagram  below  the  signal from one of the PWM pins 
on the Nano.  

38   
 
 

The  PWM  output  will  produce  a  pulse  at  roughly  every  1/500  of  a  second.  The  'analogWrite'  function 
controls  the  length  of  this  pulse,  thus,  specifying  a  value  between  0  and  255  won’t  produce any pulse at all at 
'analogWrite(0)' and a pulse that lasts all the way until the next pulse is due will be at 'analogWrite(255)'.   

If  the  output  pulse  is only high for 5% of the time, then whatever we are driving will only receive 5% of full 

power.  However,  in  the  case  that  the  output  is  at  5V  for  90%  of  the  time,  then  the  load  will  get  90%  of  the 
power  delivered  to  it.  We  cannot  see the LEDs rapidly turning on and off, so to the human eye, it just looks like 
the brightness is changing.  

5.7 Connection  
Schematic  
 

Common Anode 

You can see from the diagram that the longest leg directly connects to the 5 V and the other pins 
connects (in series with a 220Ω resistor each) to 3 digital pins (capable of PWM). 
 

39   
 

 
Common Cathode 

You can see from the diagram that the longest leg directly connects to the GND and the other pins 
connects (in series with a 220Ω resistor each) to 3 digital pins (capable of PWM). 
 

 
 

40   
 

Wiring diagram  

 
Common Anode 

Common Cathode 

5.8 Code  
After wiring, find and open the program located in the folder - Lesson 5 RGB LED, and UPLOAD to 
upload the code. If there are any errors, see Lesson 3 for details about program uploading 
 
FOR  loops  will  be  used  in  our  code  to  be  able  to  cycle  through  the  colors.  The  first  will  go  from  RED  to 
GREEN, then GREEN to BLUE and the third is from BLUE to RED. 

The sketch starts by identifying pins that are going to be used for each of the colors:  

// Define Pins  
#define BLUE 3  
#define GREEN 5  
#define RED 6  

 
41   
 
 
Then  we  will  write  the  'setup'  function.  This  function  only runs once after the Arduino has reset as shown 
in the previous lesson. Here, the function just need to define the three pins we are using as being outputs.  

void setup()  
{  
pinMode(RED, OUTPUT);  
pinMode(GREEN, OUTPUT);  
pinMode(BLUE, OUTPUT);  
digitalWrite(RED, HIGH);  
digitalWrite(GREEN, LOW);  
digitalWrite(BLUE, LOW);  
}  

 
 
Let’s have a look at the last function in the sketch and define variables. 

redValue = 255; // choose a value between 1 and 255 to change the color.  
greenValue = 0;  
blueValue = 0;  

 
 
There  are  three  arguments  in  this  function,  one  argument  is  for  the  brightness  of  each  of  the  red, green 
and blue LEDs, with values between 0 (means off) and 255 (maximum brightness). The 'analogWrite' argument 
of the function will then be used to set the brightness of each LED.  

Looking  at  the  'loop'  function,  it  can  be  seen  that  we  are  specifying  the  amount  of  red,  green  and  blue 
light that we want to produce, then pause for a second before moving on to the next color.   

#define delayTime 10 // fading time between colors Delay(delayTime); 

Now, try to add few colors of your own to the sketch and observe the effect on your LED. 

42   
 

5.9 Example picture 

 

43   
 

Lesson 6: Digital Inputs 

6.1 Overview  
In  this  lesson,  it  will  be  discussed  how  to  use  push  buttons  containing  digital  inputs  to  turn  the  LED  on 
and off. Pressing the button will turn the LED on and off.  

6.2 Components Required 

1 x Nano R3  
1 x Breadboard 830p 
1 x 5mm red LED  
1 x 220 ohm resistor  
2 x push Button  
7 x M-M wires (Male to Male jumper wires)  

6.3 Component Introduction  

PUSH Button 

Push  buttons  are  simple  components  that  works  in  the  following  manner:  when  a  button  is  pressed  or  a 
lever  is  flipped,  it  causes  two  contacts  to  connected  together  resulting  to  flow  of  electricity  through  them.  The 
push buttons in this lesson have four connections. 

44   
 
 

There  are  only  two  electrical  connections  inside  the  switch  package:  pins  B  –  C  and  A  -  D  that  are 
connected together.  

6.4 Connection 
Schematic 
 

 
Wiring diagram 

45   
 
 

The  pins  of  switches  protrude  from  opposite  sides  of  the  square  bodies  of  the  component.  Thus  the 
distance  between  the  pins  will  only be enough when placed correctly on the breadboard. Keep in mind that the 
LED has to have the shorter negative lead to the left.  

6.5 Code  
After  wiring,  find  and  open  the  program  located  in  the  folder  -  Lesson  6  Digital  Inputs,  and UPLOAD the 
code. If there are any errors, see Lesson 3 for details about program uploading.  

Load  the  sketch.  The  code  tells  us  the  LED  will  turn  ON  when  left  button  is pressed, and it will turn OFF 
when the right button is pressed.  

In the sketch, three variables are defined for the three pins that will be used. The output is the 'ledPin', the 
'buttonApin' is the switch closer to the top of the breadboard and other switch is 'buttonBpin'. 

The  ledPin  is  the  OUTPUT  defined  by  the  'setup'  function,  but  we  have  the  two  inputs  to  set  up.  In  this 
case, we use the pinMode as 'INPUT_PULLUP' as below:  

pinMode(buttonApin, INPUT_PULLUP);  
pinMode(buttonBpin, INPUT_PULLUP);  

 
 
The  INPUT_PULLUP  pin  mode  tells  us  that  the  pin  is  used  as  an  input,  and  it should then be 'pulled up' 
to  HIGH if nothing else is connected. That basically means that the default value is HIGH for the input, unless it 
is  pulled  LOW  by  a  press  of  the  button.  Thus,  switches  are  usually  connected  to  GND.  Pressing  a  switch  will 
connect the input pin to GND, and it will no longer be HIGH.  
 
Since  default  value  is  HIGH  unless  it  is pulled LOW by a press of the button, the logic is a bit backwards. 
This is resolved in the 'loop' function.  

void loop()  
{  
if (digitalRead(buttonApin) == LOW)  
{  
digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); 
} 
if (digitalRead(buttonBpin) == LOW) 
{  
digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); 
} 
}  
 
 

46   
 
We  have  two  'if'  statements  in  the  'loop'  function,  one  for  each  button.  Each  of  the  statements  does  a 
'digitalRead',  verifying  the  appropriate input. Keep in mind that pressing a button will result in LOW input. Thus, 
if  we  have  button  A  that  is  low,  the  'digitalWrite'  on  the  ledPin  will  turn  it on. Likewise, a LOW is written to the 
ledPin if button B is pressed. 

47   
 

6.6 Example picture 

48   
 

Lesson 7: Passive Buzzer 

7.1 Overview  
This  lesson  will  teach  you  the basics about using a passive buzzer. The goal of this chapter is to produce 
eight  different  sounds  of  0.5  seconds  each:  from  Alto  Do  (523Hz),  Re  (587Hz),  Mi  (659Hz),  Fa  (698Hz),  So 
(784Hz), La (880Hz), Si (988Hz) to Treble Do (1047Hz).  

7.2 Components Required 

1 x Nano R3  
1 x Breadboard 830p 
1 x Passive buzzer  
2 x M-M wires (Male to Male jumper wires)  

7.3 Component Introduction  

Passive Buzzer 

How  a  passive  buzzer  works  is  by  using  PWM  generating  audio  to  make  the  air  vibrate  and  generate 
different  sounds.  For  instance,  sending  a  pulse  of  523Hz  generates  Alto  Do,  a  pulse  of  587Hz  generates 
midrange Re, and so on. Thus, you can even play a song using the buzzer. 

This  time  we  do  not  use  the  Arduino  board  analog  Write  ()  function to generate a pulse to the buzzer, as 
the function will always output 500Hz.  

49   
 
7.4 Connection  
Schematic 

Wiring diagram  
 

 
 
50   
 
In wiring the buzzer connected to the Arduino board, we put the red wire (+) going to the pin 12 and the 
black wire (-) going to the GND.  

7.5 Code  
After  wiring,  find  and  open  the  program  located  in  the  folder  –  Lesson  7  Passive  Buzzer,  and  UPLOAD 
the code. If there are any errors, see Lesson 3 for details about program uploading. 

7.6 Example picture  

 

51   
 

Lesson 8: Tilt Ball Switch 

8.1 Overview  
This lesson will teach you the basics on using a tilt ball switch to identify a small inclination angle.  

8.2 Components Required 

1 x Nano R3  
1 x Breadboard 830p 
1 x Tilt Ball switch  
2 x M-M wires (Male to Male jumper wires)  

8.3 Component Introduction  

Tilt sensor 

Tilt  sensors  are  used  to  detect  inclination  or  orientation.  They  are  reliable,  low-power,  long-lasting  and 
very  inexpensive.  Because  they  are  so  simple,  they  are  quite  popular  for  appliances, gadgets and toys. They 
are also known as "mercury switches", "tilt switches" or "rolling ball sensors".  

They  usually consist of a cavity (most often of cylindrical shape) with a conductive free mass inside, like a 
blob  of  mercury  or rolling ball. When the end of the cavity, which contains two poles, is pointed downwards, the 
sensor can act as a switch throw as the mass rolls onto the poles and shorts them. 

Tilt  sensors  can  detect  motion  or  orientation,  but  they  are  not  as  accurate  or  flexible  as  a  full 
accelerometer.  The  big  ones  have  the  capacity  of  switching  power  independently,  whereas  accelerometers 
require extra circuit components for evaluating output digital or analog voltage.  

52   
 

8.4 Connection  
Schematic  
 

 
Wiring diagram 

 
53   
 

8.5 Code  
After  wiring,  find  and  open  the  program  located  in  the  folder  –  Lesson  8  Ball  Switch,  and  UPLOAD the 
code. If there are any errors, see Lesson 3 for details about program uploading. 

8.6 Example picture 

 

54   
 

Lesson 9: Ultrasonic Sensor Module  

9.1 Overview  
The  Ultrasonic  sensor  is  a  great  component  for  all  kinds  of  projects  that  need  distance  measurements 
such as avoiding obstacles.  

In  this  lesson,  a  Library  designed  for  HC-SR04  sensor,  which  is  a  cheap  and  easy to use sensor, will be 
used. 

9.2 Components Required  

1 x Nano R3  
1 x Breadboard 830p 
1 x Ultrasonic sensor module  
4 x M-M wires (Male to Male jumper wires)  

9.3 Component Introduction  

Ultrasonic sensor  

The  ultrasonic  sensor  module  HC-SR04  has  a  capacity  of  2cm  to  400cm  indirect  measurement,  with  a 
ranging  precision  of  up  to  3mm.  Ultrasonic  transmitters,  receivers  and  control  circuits  are  included  in  the 
module. The fundamental working formula is:  

Test distance = (high level time × velocity of sound (340m/s) )/2  

And the basic principle of work are the following:  

(1) Using IO trigger for at least 10ms high level signal 

(2) The module automatically sends eight 40 kHz and detect whether there is a pulse signal back 
(3)  If  the  signal  back,  through  high  level  ,  time  of  high  output  IO  duration  is  the  time  from  sending 
ultrasonic tore turning. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

55   
 
 

You  can  observe  from  the  Timing  Diagram  below.  As  you  can  see,  only a short 10ms pulse is necessary 
to  trigger the device to start the ranging. Afterwards, the module will send out 8-cycle bursts of ultrasound at 40 
kHz  and  raise  its  echo,  thus  the  range  through  the  time  interval  between  sending  trigger  signal  and  receiving 
echo  signal  can  be  measured.  The  formula  is:  ms/58  in  centimeters  or  ms/148  in  inches  or  the  range  =  high 
level time * velocity (340M/S) / 2. We recommend using measurement cycles over 60ms.  

56   
 

9.4 Connection  
Schematic 

Wiring diagram  
 

57   
 

9.5 Code  
Our  code  will  be  short  and  simple  if  we  use  a  Library  designed  for  these  sensors.  The  Library  will  be 
included at the start of the code and by using simple commands we can control the behavior of the sensor.  

After  wiring,  find  and  open  the  program  located in the folder – Lesson 11 Ultrasonic Sensor Module,, and 

UPLOAD  the  code.  If there are any errors, see Lesson 3 for details about program uploading. To be able to run 
this,  have  the  <HC-SR04>  library  installed  or  re-install  it,  if  necessary,  for  the  code  to  work.  For  details  about 
loading the library file, see Lesson 2.  

9.6 Example picture 

 

 
Open the monitor so we can see the following values:  

Press  the  Serial  Monitor  button  to  turn  it  on.  The  serial  monitor  is comprehensively introduced in Lesson 
2.  

 
 

58   
 

Lesson 10: IR Receiver Module 

10.1 Overview  
Wireless  control  on  your  projects  can  be  easily  achieved  using  an  Infrared  (IR)  Remote,  as  they  are 
simple  to  understand  and  use.  In  this  lesson  we  will  be  learning  to  program  the  IR  receiver  using  a  Library 
designed specifically for it.  

In our code, we will have access to all the IR Hexadecimal codes available on this remote, we will check if 
the code was identified and whether we are pressing a key.  

10.2 Components Required 

1 x Nano R3  
1 x Breadboard 830p 
1 x IR receiver module  
1 x IR remote  
3 x M-M wires (Male to Male jumper wires)  

10.3 Component Introduction  

IR RECEIVER SENSOR 

IR  detectors  are  essentially  small  microchips  that  contains  a  photocell.  This  photocell’s  function  is  to 
detect  infrared  light.  These  detectors  are  commonly  used  for  remote  control  detection,  especially  in  TVs  and 
DVD  players.  TV  commands  are  given  by  the  infrared  light  inside  the  remote control: to power on, change the 
volume, etc. This light can not be seen by the human eye, which makes it harder for us to test a setup.  

59   
 
 

We can spot some differences between these and photocells:  

IR detectors are not suitable for visible light, as they are especially created for IR light. On the other hand, 
photocells are the opposite: good at detecting yellow/green light, but not for IR light.  

Photocells  do  not  have  demodulators  and  they  can  distinguish  any  frequency  within  the  speed  of  the 
photocell’s  response  (which  is  about  1KHz).  On  the  contrary,  IR  detectors  have  a  demodulator  inside  that 
searches for modulated IR at 38 KHz.  

  IR  detectors  are straightforward - they either detect a 38KHz IR signal and output low (0V) or they do not 

find  any  and  output  high  (5V).  Photocells  behave  similar  to  resistors,  the  value  changing  according  to  the 
intensity of light that they are exposed to.  

What You Can Measure 

These graphs show us that the peak frequency detection is at 38  

KHz  and  the  peak  LED  color is 940 nm. You can use a frequency of about 35 to 41 KHz, but it won't identify as 
accurately from a bigger distance. Remember to look at the datasheet for your IR LED to check the wavelength 
and get the correct LED, preferably a 940nm as this is not a visible light. 

 
60   
 

10.4 Connection  
Schematic  
 

Wiring diagram  

61   
 
There  are  3  connections  to  the  IR  Receiver:  Signal,  Voltage  and  Ground.  The  “-”  is  the  Ground,  “S”  is 
signal, and middle pin is Voltage 5V.  

10.5 Code  
After  wiring,  find  and  open  the  program  located  in  the  folder  –  Lesson  10  IR  Receiver  Module,  and 
UPLOAD  the  code.  If there are any errors, see Lesson 3 for details about program uploading. To be able to run 
this,  have  the  <  IRremote  >  library  installed  or  re-install  it,  if  necessary,  for  the code to work. For details about 
loading the library file, see Lesson 2. 

Now, we will move the <RobotIRremote> out of the Library folder, to avoid problems the one we are going 
to be utilizing. Just put it back after you are done with this lesson. After installing the library, restart your IDE. 

10.6 Example picture 

 

62   
 
Open the monitor, so you can see the following figure:  

Press  the  Serial  Monitor  button  to  turn  it  on.  The  serial  monitor  is comprehensively introduced in Lesson 
2.  
 

63   
 

Lesson 11: Controlling LEDs with the remote 

11.1 Overview  
In  the  previous lesson, we used the IR remote to see which button is pressed on the serial monitor, in this 
lesson  we  will  learn  how  to  use  it  to  control  5  LEDs.  we  will  use  the  numbers  on  the  remote  from  0  to  9  to 
control them. 

11.2 Components Required 

1 x Nano R3  
1 x Breadboard 830p 
1 x IR receiver module  
1 x IR remote  
1 x 5mm red LED  
1 x 5mm green LED  
1 x 5mm blue LED  
1 x 5mm white LED  
1 x 5mm yellow LED  
5 x 220 ohm resistor  
14 x M-M wires (Male to Male jumper wires)  

 
 
 

64   
 

11.3 Connection  
Schematic  

Wiring diagram  

65   
 

11.4 Code  
After  wiring,  find  and  open  the  program  located  in  the  folder  –  Lesson  14  IR  Receiver  Module,  and 
UPLOAD  the  code.  If there are any errors, see Lesson 3 for details about program uploading. To be able to run 
this,  have  the  <  IRremote  >  library  installed  or  re-install  it,  if  necessary,  for  the code to work. For details about 
loading the library file, see Lesson 2. 

11.5 Example picture 

 

66   
 

Lesson 12: DC Motors 

12.1 Overview  
This lesson will be teaching you the basics on how to control a small DC motor using L293D IC and an 
Arduino.  

12.2 Components Required 

1 x Nano R3  
1 x Breadboard 830p 
1 x L293D IC  
1 x Fan blade and 3-6v motor  
8 x M-M wires (Male to Male jumper wires)  

12.3 Component Introduction  

L293D  

This  is  quite  a  handy  chip, as it has the ability to control two motors individually. We’ll be using half of it in 

this particular case. The pins on the right hand side of the chip are mostly for managing a second motor. 

Product Specifications 

• Features Unitrode L293 and L293D Products From Texas Instruments  

• Wide Supply-Voltage Range: 4.5 V to 36 V  
• Separate Input-Logic Supply  
• Internal ESD Protection  
• Thermal Shutdown  
• High-Noise-Immunity Inputs  
• Functionally Similar to SGS L293 and SGS L293D  
• Output Current 1 A Per Channel (600 mA for L293D)  
• Peak Output Current 2 A Per Channel (1.2 A for L293D)  
• Output Clamp Diodes for Inductive Transient Suppression (L293D)  

67   
 
 

Description/ordering information  

The purpose of the L293 is to supply bidirectional currents of a maximum of 1A, at voltages between 4.5V 
and  36V,  whereas  the  L293D  can  handle  a bidirectional current of up to 600mA using the same voltage range. 
Both  of  them  are  called  quadruple  high-current  half-H  drivers,  and  they  are  both  devised  with  the  purpose  of 
driving  inductive  parts:  DC  and  bipolar  stepping  motors,  relays,  solenoids,  and  any  other  high-current  and 
voltage loads in positive-supply operations.  

Each  and every one of the outputs are complete totem-pole drive circuits, with a Darlington transistor sink 
and  a  pseudo-Darlington  source,  while  all  the  inputs  are  TTL  compatible.  Drivers  1  and  2  are  enabled  by 
1,2EN,  while  drivers  3  and  4  are  enabled  by  3,4EN,  as  they  are  set  up  in  pairs.  They  are  enabled  when  an 
enable  input  is  high,  and  the  corresponding  outputs  are  active  and  in  phase  with  their  inputs.  Alternatively, 
those  drivers  are  disabled  when  the  enable  input  is  low,  and  the  corresponding  outputs  are  off  and  have high 
impedance.  Each  pair  of  drivers  creates  a  full-H,  also  called  a  bridge,  reversible  drive  suited  for  solenoid  or 
motor usage with the appropriate data inputs.  

Block diagram  

68   
 

12.4 Connection  
Schematic 

Wiring diagram 

69   
 
The  code below does not require a separate power supply or a battery, it actually uses the 5V power from 
the Arduino. This can only be done because the L293D is controlling it and would be risky without it. 

DO  NOT  connect  a  motor  directly  to  the  device,  because  if  you  will  get  an  electrical  feedback when you 
turn  the  motor  off.  If  you  have  a  small  motor,  this  will  damage  your  Nano,  but  with  a  large  one,  you  can  even 
see a flame and sparks effect.  

 
 

12.5 Code  
After  wiring,  find  and  open  the  program  located  in  the  folder  Lesson  12  DC  Motors,  and  UPLOAD  the 
code. If there are any errors, see Lesson 3 for details about program uploading.  

Once  the  program  loads,  power  ON  all  the  power  switches.  There  will  slightly  rotation  of  the  motor 
clockwise  and  counterclockwise  for  5  times.  Afterwards,  it  will  continue  to  dramatically  rotate  clockwise  and 
counterclockwise.  Then  after  a  short  pause,  it  will  dramatically  rotate  counterclockwise.  Then,  to  drive  the 
motor,  the  controller  board  will  send  a  PWM,  so  that  the  motor  will  gradually  lower  its  maximum  RPM  to  the 
minimum and increase to the maximum again. Finally, it stops for 10 seconds until the next cycle starts. 

70   
 

12.6 Example picture  

71   
 

Lesson 13: Relay 

13.1 Overview  
In this lesson, you will learn the basics for using a relay.  

13.2 Components Required 

1 x Nano R3  
1 x Breadboard 830p 
1 x Fan blade and 3-6v motor  
1 x 5v Relay  
5 x M-M wires (Male to Male jumper wires)  
 
  

13.3 Component Introduction  

Relay 

A  relay  is  an  electrically  operated  switch,  generally  using  an  electromagnet  to  mechanically  operate  a 
switch,  but sometimes its operating principles are also used as in solid-state relays. Relays are used where it is 
necessary  to  control  a  circuit  using  a  low-power  signal  (with  complete  electrical  isolation  between  control  and 
controlled  circuits),  or  where  several  circuits  must  be  controlled  by  one  signal.  The  first  relays  were  used  in 
long-distance  telegraph  circuits  as  amplifiers  where  they  repeated  the  signal  coming  in  from  one  circuit  and 
re-transmitted  it  on  another  circuit.  As  early  computers,  what  they  do  is  to  perform  logical  operations  further 

72   
 
down  the  line.  The  way  they  are  working  is  that  they  repeated  the  signal  coming  in  from  one  circuit  and 
re-transmitted it on another circuit.  

A  contactor  is  a  type  of  relay  that  can  handle  the  high  power  needed  to directly control an electric motor 
or  other  loads.  Solid-state  relays  control  power  circuits using a semiconductor device to perform the switching. 
Relays  with  calibrated  operating  characteristics  and  sometimes  multiple  operating  coils  are  utilized  to 
safeguard  electrical  circuits  from  overload  or  faults.  In  modern  electric  power  systems,  these  functions  are 
performed by digital instruments called "protective relays".  

You can find the schematic showing how to drive a relay with our device below.  

If  you  are  unsure  about  how  to  insert  the  relay  into  the  breadboard.  As  you  can  see  in  the  photo  below, 
you will need to slightly bend one of the pins of the relay so you can insert it into the breadboard.  
 

73   
 

13.4 Connection  
Schematic  

Wiring diagram 

74   
 

13.5 Code  
After  wiring,  find  and  open the program located in the folder - Lesson 13 Relay, and UPLOAD the code. If 
there are any errors, see Lesson 3 for details about program uploading.  

After  the  program  loads.  The  relay  will  pick  up  with  a  ringing  sound.  Then,  the  motor  will  rotate  and 
eventually, the relay will be released, and the motor stops.  

13.6 Example picture  

75   
 

Lesson 14: Controlling DC motor with the remote 

14.1 Overview  
In previous lesson we controlled LEDs with remote, in this lesson we will learn how to control DC motor 
with remote, using 0 and 1 buttons. 

14.2 Components Required 

1 x Nano R3  
1 x Breadboard 830p 
1 x Transistor 2N2222 
1 x Fan blade and 3-6v motor  
1 x 2 k ohm resistor  
1 x IR receiver module  
1 x IR remote  
6 x M-M wires (Male to Male jumper wires)  

14.3 Component Introduction  

Transistor 
 
The  transistor  is  a  circuit  element  that  can  be  used  as  an  electrically  operated  switch.  It  is  made  of 
semiconductor  materials,  has  three  terminals  and can interrupt or close the circuit between two terminals 
depending on the command applied on the control pin. 
 

 
76   
 

14.4 Connection  
Schematic 

 
Wiring diagram 

77   
 

14.5 Code  
After wiring, find and open the program located in the folder Lesson 12 DC Motors, and UPLOAD the 
code. If there are any errors, see Lesson 3 for details about program uploading. 

14.6 Example picture  

78   
 

Lesson 15: Eight LED with 74HC595 

15.1 Overview  
This  lesson  will  show  you  how  to  use  eight  LEDs  with  an  Arduino  without  using  up  8  output  pins!  Even 
though  you  could  wire  up  eight LEDs with a resistor for each of them to a pin, you would quickly run out of pins 
for  other  components,  as  we  usually  have  an  array  of  devices  such  as  buttons,  sensors,  servos, etc. for most 
projects.  Instead,  we  are  using  a chip called the 74HC595 Serial to Parallel Converter, which has eight outputs 
and three inputs that you could use to give data to.  

This  chip  makes  the board a little slower in use (you can change the LEDs about 500,000 times a second 

compared  to  8,000,000  a  second)  but  it's  still  much  faster  than  the  human  eye  can  distinguish,  so  it's  not  an 
issue.  

15.2 Components Required 

1 x Nano R3  
1 x Breadboard 830p 
8 x LEDs  
8 x 220 ohm resistors  
1 x 74hc595 IC  
17 x M-M wires (Male to Male jumper wires)  
 

15.3 Component Introduction  

74HC595 Shift Register 

The  shift  register  is  a  kind  of  chip containing eight memory locations, with the values 1 or 0. We input the 

data using the 'Data' and 'Clock' pins of the chip to set these values on or off. 
 

79   
 

The  clock  pin  should  receive  eight  pulses.  For  each of these, if the data pin is either high or low, then a 1 

or  a  0  goes  into  the  shift  register  respectively.  After  all  the  pulses  are received, enabling the 'Latch' pin copies 
those eight values to the latch register.  

Additionally,  the  chip  has  an  output  enable  (OE)  pin,  utilized  to  weather  enable  or  disable  the  outputs 
collectively.  This  can  be  linked  to  a  PWM-capable  Arduino  pin,  allowing  the  use  of  'analogWrite'  to  the  light 
intensity of the LEDs. We connect this pin to GND since it is active low. 

80   
 
15.4 Connection  
Schematic  
 

 
Wiring diagram 

81   
 
We have eight LEDs and eight resistors to connect, so let us begin.  

We  recommend  you  place  first  the  74HC595  chip  as  almost  everything  else  connects  to  it.  Place  it  in 
such a way that towards the top of the breadboard is the U-shaped notch. Located at the left of this notch is the 
Pin 1 of the chip.  

Digital 12 from the Nano goes to pin #14 of the shift register  
Digital 11 from the Nano goes to pin #12 of the shift register  
Digital 9 from the Nano goes to pin #11 of the shift register  

All  except  one  of  the  outputs  is  placed  on  the  left  side  of the chip, where the LEDs can be found as well, 
to make the connection effortless.  

Then,  place  the  resistors  on  the  breadboard.  You  should  check  that  the  leads  of  the  resistors  are  not 
touching  each  other  before  you  connect  the  power  to  your  Nano.  You  can try to shorten the leads so that they 
are closer to the surface of the breadboard, if ever you are encountering any difficulties 

Afterwards,  put  the  LEDs  in  place.  The  longer  positive  leads  must  all  be  in  the  direction  of  the  chip, 
irrespective of which side of the breadboard they are on.  
Connect the jumper wires, but remember the one that goes from pin 8 of the IC to the GND column. 

Try  the  sketch  mentioned.  Each  LED  should  light one by one until they are all on. Afterwards, they will all 

turn off and the sequence repeats. 

15.5 Code  
After  wiring,  find  and  open  the  program  located  in  the  folder  Lesson  15  Eight  LED  with  74HC595,  and 
UPLOAD the code. If there are any errors, see Lesson 3 for details about program uploading.  

We  start  by  defining the three pins we will be utilizing. These are the digital outputs that will be connected 

to the latch, clock and data pins of the 74HC595.  

int latchPin = 11;  

int clockPin = 9;  
int dataPin = 12; 
 

Then, we define a variable called ‘leds’, which will hold the order of the 
LEDs  being  turned  on or off. The data 'byte' represents numbers using eight bits, each being on or off, ideal for 
monitoring which of the eight LEDs are powered on or off.  

byte leds = 0; 

 
The 'setup' function establishes the three pins to be used as digital outputs.  

void setup()  
{  
pinMode(latchPin, OUTPUT);  
pinMode(dataPin, OUTPUT);  
pinMode(clockPin, OUTPUT);  
} 

82   
 
 

At  first, the 'loop' function turns all of the LEDs off by setting the variable ‘leds' to 0. Afterwards, it calls the 
'updateShiftRegister'  function,  which  sends  the  'leds'  sequence to the shift register in order to turn all the LEDs 
off.  

There  will  be  a  half  second  pause  for  the  loop  function  and  using  the  ‘for’  loop  and  the  variable  ‘i’,  it 
counts  through  the  number  of  leds  (from  0  to  7).  Every  time,  the  'bitSet'  function  is  utilized  to  set  the  bit  that 
controls  that  LED  in  the  variable  'leds'.  Then  it  calls  the  ‘updateShiftRegister'  to  update  the LEDs. Afterwards, 
there is a half second delay before the incrementation of 'i' and the next LED is turned on.  

void loop()  
{  
leds = 0;  
updateShiftRegister();  
delay(500);  
for (int i = 0; i < 8; i++)  
{  
bitSet(leds, i);  
updateShiftRegister();  
delay(500);  
}  
} 
 
First of all, latchPin is set to low by 'updateShiftRegister' function followed with a call of the  
'shiftOut' function before bringing back the ‘latchPin’ to high. We have four parameters here: the first two are for 
Data  and  Clock,  the  third  is  to  identify  which  end  of  the  data  you wish to begin at, and the last is for the actual 
data to be shifted into the shift register. We are  
beginning with the rightmost bit, also called the 'Least Significant Bit' (LSB).  

void updateShiftRegister()  
{  
digitalWrite(latchPin, LOW);  
shiftOut(dataPin, clockPin, LSBFIRST, leds);  
digitalWrite(latchPin, HIGH);  
} 
 
In order to turn one of the LEDs off, you would call the ‘bitClear’ function with the 'leds' variable, which will 
have a setting of ‘0’, and then followed with calling the 'updateShiftRegister' to have the actual LEDs updated.  

83   
 

15.6 Example picture 

 

84   
 

Lesson 16: The Serial Monitor 

16.1 Overview 
This  lesson  will  be  based  on  the  previous  lesson,  with  the  option  of  managing  the  LEDs  from  your 
computer.  We  will  be  utilizing  the  Serial  Monitor  –  the  connection  between  the  computer  and  the  Arduino, 
enabling  you  to  send  and  receive  text  messages  for  debugging  or controlling from keyboard. After this lesson, 
you  can  send  commands  from  your  computer  to  turn  the  LEDs  on,  using  the  same  exact  parts  and  a  similar 
breadboard layout.  

16.2 Steps taken 

After  uploading  this  code  onto your device, click on the right-most button (as shown below) on the toolbar 
in the IDE.  

85   
 
This window will open.  
 
Press  the  Serial  Monitor  button  to  turn  on  the  serial  monitor.  We  discussed  the  serial  monitor in detail in 
Lesson 2.  
 

This  is  the  Serial  Monitor  and  a  part  of  the IDE software. Its purpose is to allow the Nano board and your 

computer to communicate (to send and receive the message to each other). 

The message that appeared, “Enter LED Number 0 to 7 or 'x' to clear” has been sent by the device, which 
informs  us  of  the  commands  we  can  give  to  the  Arduino:  'x'  to  turn  all  the  LEDs  off  or  the  number  of the LED 
you  want  to  turn  on  (where  0  to7  is  from  bottom  LED  to  top  LED).  You  can  test  the  following  commands into 
the top area of the Serial Monitor and press 'Send': x 0 3 5. 

If  the  LEDs  are  already  turned  off,  typing  ‘x’  will  not  do  anything,  but  upon  entering  each  number,  the 
matching LED will turn on and a confirmation message will appear, like the one below. 
 

86   
 

Typing ‘x’ one more time and clicking ‘Send’ will turn off all the LEDs.  

16.3 Code  
After  wiring,  find  and  open  the  program  located in the folder Lesson 16 The Serial Monitor, and UPLOAD 
the code. If there are any errors, see Lesson 3 for details about program uploading.  

As expected, this sketch is largely built on the one used in Lesson 16, so we only need to explain the new 
lines  of  code.  You  may  deem  it  useful  to  refer  to  the  complete  sketch  in  your  IDE.  As  you  can  see,  there  are 
three new lines at the end in the 'setup' function:  

void setup()  
{  
pinMode(latchPin, OUTPUT);  
pinMode(dataPin, OUTPUT);  
pinMode(clockPin, OUTPUT);  
updateShiftRegister();  
Serial.begin(9600);  
while (! Serial); // Wait until Serial is ready - Leonardo  
Serial.println("Enter LED Number 0 to 7 or 'x' to clear");  
} 
 

  Initially,  there  is  the  'Serial.begin(9600)'  command which starts the communication, enabling the Nano to 

send  out  commands  through  the  USB  connection.  The  value  9600  is  the  'baud  rate'  of  the  connection  and  it 
determines  the  speed  of  the  data  being  sent.  This  can  be  modified  to  a higher value, but you will also need to 
change the Serial monitor to the same value. For now, leave it at 9600.  

The  'while' loop assures us that there is something on the other side of the USB connection for the device 
to  communicate  with,  or  else  the  message  cannot  be displayed even though it is sent. This line is only needed 
if  you are using  a Leonardo board because  the  Arduino board routinely resets itself when you open the Serial 
87   
 
Monitor. 

The  final  new  lines  in  'setup'  send  out  the  message  we  see  at  the  top  of  the  Serial  Monitor.  Let’s  take a 
look at the ‘loop’ function:  

void loop()  
{  
if (Serial.available())  
{  
char ch = Serial.read();  
if (ch >= '0' && ch <= '7')  
{  
int led = ch - '0';  
bitSet(leds, led);  
updateShiftRegister();  
Serial.print("Turned on LED ");  
Serial.println(led);  
}  
if (ch == 'x')  
{  
leds = 0;  
updateShiftRegister(); 
Serial.println("Cleared"); 
} 
} 
} 
The  ‘if’  statement  tells  us  everything  that  happens  inside  the  loop  and  nothing else will happen if the call 
to  the  built-in  function  'Serial.available()'  is  'true'.  If  data is sent to the Nano and is ready to be processed, then 
Serial.available()  will  return  'true'.  Meaning,  the  Serial.available()  will  return  'true'  if  the  buffer,  where  incoming 
messages  are  held,  is  not  empty.  If  a  message  has  been  accepted,  then  we  move  on  to  the  next  part  of  the 
code:  

char ch = Serial.read(); 

This  extracts  the  next  character  from  the  buffer  and  assigns  it  to  the  variable  'ch'.  The  variable  'ch'  is  of 
type  'char',  which  holds  a  single  character.  This  variable  will  either  be  a  number  between  0  and  7 or the letter 
'x'.  
The  'if'  statement  in  the  following  line  checks  if  it  is  a  single  digit  by  confirming  that  the  value  of  'ch'  is 
between  '0'  and  '7'.  While  it  may  seem  peculiar  comparing  characters  like  this,  it  is  perfectly  reliable,  as  each 
character  is  illustrated  by  a  unique  number,  called  an  ASCII  value.  Thus,  when  we  compare  characters  using 
the  operators  <=  and  >=,  we  are  actually  comparing the ASCII values. In the case that the ‘if’ result is positive, 
we proceed on to the next line:  
Next,  we  are  subtracting  the  digit  '0'  from  any  digit  entered.  Thus,  typing  '0'  then  '0'  -  '0'  will  equal  0, 
whereas  typing  '7'  then  '7'  -  '0'  will  equal the number 7 as the ASCII values are actually the ones being used in 
the  operation.  Because  we  know  the  number of the LED we want to power on, we just need to store that in the 
variable 'leds' and have the shift register updated.  

bitSet(leds, led);  
updateShiftRegister();1 

The following lines send a confirmation message back to the Serial Monitor.  

88   
 
Serial.print("Turned on LED ");  
Serial.println(led); 

You  can  see  from  the  first  line  that  it  uses  Serial.print  rather  than  Serial.println,  as  we  do  not  want  to 
begin  a  new  line  after  printing.  We  will  print  the  message in two parts: 'Turned on LED ' and the number of the 
LED  as  an  ‘int’  variable.  Serial.print  can  take  any  type  of  variable,  either  a  text  string  enclosed  in 
double-quotes,  or  an  'int'  or  any  type  of  variable.  Ensuing  the  'if'  statement  that  handles  the  single  digit  case, 
there is a second 'if', one that checks whether 'ch' is the letter 'x'.  

if (ch == 'x')  
{  
leds = 0;  
updateShiftRegister();  
Serial.println("Cleared");  
} 
 
In that is the case, it then clears each one of the LEDs and sends a message of confirmation.  

89   
 

Lesson 17: Photocell 

17.1 Overview  
This  lesson  will  be  showing  you  the  basics  on  how  to  measure  brightness  using  Analog  Input  or  how  to 
check the intensity of light and how to use that value to manage the number of LEDs being lit using a photocell. 

17.2 Components Required 

1 x Nano R3  
1 x Breadboard 830p 
8 x LEDs  
8 x 220 ohm resistors  
1 x 1K ohm resistors 
1 x 74hc595 IC  
18 x M-M wires (Male to Male jumper wires)  
1 x Photoresistor (Photocell)  

17.3 Component Introduction  

PHOTOCELL 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The  photocell  used  here  is  a  light  dependent  resistor  (‘LDR’)  type.  From  the  name,  we  draw  the 
conclusion  that  these  components  behave  like  a  resistor,  except  that  the  resistance  changes  according to the 
level  of  light  they  are  exposed  to,  with  values  between  50  kΩ  in  near  darkness  and  500  Ω  in  bright  light.  To 
transform  this  fluctuating  value  of  resistance  into  something  that  the  Arduino’s  analog  input  can  measure,  it 
has to be converted into a voltage. The most basic way to do so is to integrate it with a fixed resistor.  

90   
 

Alternatively,  when  the  photocell  is  in  dull  light,  the  resistance  becomes  greater  than  the  fixed  1  kΩ 
resistor  and  it  behaves  as  if  the  pot  is  being  turned  towards  GND.  Use  the code found in the next section and 
try to cover the photocell or hold it near a light source to see how the values change.  

17.4 Connection  
Schematic  

 
 
 
 
 
 

91   
 
Wiring diagram 

17.5 Code  
After  wiring, find and open the program located in the folder Lesson 17 Photocell, and UPLOAD the code. 
If there are any errors, see Lesson 3 for details about program uploading.  

Firstly,  we  see  that,  instead  of  ‘potPin’,  we  have modified the analog pin’s name to be 'lightPin', as we do 

not  have  a pot connected any more. The other essential change to the code is the line where we determine the 
number of LEDs to light:  

int numLEDSLit = reading / 57;  // all LEDs lit at 1k 

In  this  situation,  we  will  divide  the  raw  reading  by  57  instead  of  114,  half  as  much  as  we  did  previously 
with  the  pot  to  split  it  into  nine  areas,  from  no  LEDs  lit  to  all  eight  lit.  We  also  have  to  note  the  fixed  1  kΩ 
resistor.  Thus,  when  the  photocell  has  the  same  resistance  as  the  resistor,  the  raw  reading  will  be  1023  /  2  = 
511, which means that all the LEDs are being lit and that ‘numLEDSLit’ will be 8.  

92   
 

17.6 Example picture 

 

93   
 

Lesson 18: Thermometer 

18.1 Overview 
This lesson will teach you how to show the temperature in Serial Monitor. 

18.2 Components Required 

1 x Nano R3  
1 x Breadboard 830p 
1 x 10K ohm resistors 
1 x Thermistor 
3 x M-M wires (Male to Male jumper wires) 

18.3 Component Introduction 

Thermistor 
The thermistor is simply a thermal resistor, it changes its resistance according to the temperature. 
Theoretically, all resistors are thermistors, because their resistance adjusts to some extent with temperature, 
but it is generally too little to determine. On the other hand, with thermistors, the resistance changes intensely 
with temperature, say, 100 ohms or more per degree. 
There are two kinds of thermistors, PTC (positive temperature coefficient) and NTC (negative 
temperature coefficient). For the most part, NTC sensors are used for temperature measurements, while PTCs 
are used as resettable fuses. The working mechanism is that the temperature increases the resistance, so the 
more current passes through them, the more they heat up and resist. For their flexibility, they prove to be very 
useful for protecting circuits! 

 
 
 

 
 
 

94   
 

18.4 Connection 
Schematic 

 
Wiring diagram 

95   
 

18.5 Code 
After  wiring,  find  and  open  the  program  located  in  the  folder  Lesson  18  Thermometer,  and UPLOAD the 
code. If there are any errors, see Lesson 3 for details about program uploading. 

18.6 Example picture 

 
 
Open the monitor so we can see the following values: 

Press  the  Serial  Monitor  button  to  turn  it  on.  The  serial  monitor  is comprehensively introduced in Lesson 
2.  

 
 
96   
 

Lesson 19: LED Bar with 10 Segments 

19.1 Overview 
In this lesson we learn how to use LED Bar and how to increase it one cell by one. 

19.2 Components Required 

1 x Nano R3 
1 x Breadboard 830p 
10 x 220 ohm resistors 
11 x M-M wires (Male to Male jumper wires) 
1 x LED Bar with 10 Segments 

19.3 Component Introduction 

It contains 10 individual LEDs, each one of them has Anode and Cathode so we have 20 pins. 

19.4 Connection 
Schematic 

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Wiring diagram 

19.5 Code 
After  wiring,  find  and  open  the  program  located  in  the  folder  Lesson  19:  LED  Bar  with  10  Segments,  and 
UPLOAD the code. If there are any errors, see Lesson 3 for details about program uploading.  

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19.6 Example picture 

 

Lesson 20: LED Bar with 74hc595 

20.1 Overview 
This lesson is the same as the previous one, but we are going to add 74hc595 IC so we will use only 5 Outputs 
from Nano. 

20.2 Components Required 

1 x Nano R3 
1 x Breadboard 830p 
10 x 220 ohm resistors 
19 x M-M wires (Male to Male jumper wires) 
1 x LED Bar with 10 Segments 
1 x 74hc595 IC   
 

20.3 Connection 
Schematic 

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Wiring diagram 

20.4 Code 
After  wiring,  find  and  open  the  program  located  in  the  folder  Lesson  20: LED Bar with 74hc595, and UPLOAD 
the code. If there are any errors, see Lesson 3 for details about program uploading.  

20.5 Example picture 

 

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Lesson 21: LED Bar with Potentiometer 

21.1 Overview 
In this lesson we are going to use 10K Potentiometer to light up the LEDs. 

21.2 Components Required 

1 x Nano R3 
1 x Breadboard 830p 
10 x 220 ohm resistors 
15 x M-M wires (Male to Male jumper wires) 
1 x LED Bar with 10 Segments 
1 x Potentiometer 10kΩ 

21.3 Connection 
Schematic 

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Wiring diagram 

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21.4 Code 
After  wiring,  find  and  open  the  program  located  in  the  folder  Lesson  21:  LED  Bar  with  Potentiometer,  and 
UPLOAD the code. If there are any errors, see Lesson 3 for details about program uploading. 

21.5 Example picture 

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Lesson 22: Debouncing 

22.1 Overview 
To understand this lesson, let us take a push button off and take a look inside of it. 

 
There is a metal domed disk inside of it so when you press on it, the disk makes a contact between the legs. 
As you can see below, the first contact is red, and the second one is blue. 

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The disk is boncy, so when you press on it, it will not make contact directly, indeed it will make the contact on 
and off many times before setting down. 
In this lesson we are going to use code to debounce a push button. 

22.2 Components Required 

1 x Nano R3  
1 x Breadboard 830p 
1 x 5mm red LED  
1 x 220 ohm resistor  
1 x push Button  
5 x M-M wires (Male to Male jumper wires)  

22.3 Connection 
Schematic 

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Wiring diagram 

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22.4 Code 
After  wiring,  find  and open the program located in the folder Lesson 22: Debouncing, and UPLOAD the code. If 
there are any errors, see Lesson 3 for details about program uploading. 

22.5 Example picture 

Lesson 23: LED Bar with 2 Push buttons 

23.1 Overview 
In this lesson we are going to use 2 push buttons to make a counter with the LED Bar. 

23.2 Components Required 

1 x Nano R3 
1 x Breadboard 830p 
10 x 220 ohm resistors 
15 x M-M wires (Male to Male jumper wires) 
1 x LED Bar with 10 Segments 
2 x push Button  

23.3 Connection 
Schematic 

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Wiring diagram 

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23.4 Code 
After  wiring,  find  and  open  the  program  located  in  the  folder  Lesson  23:  LED  Bar  with  2  Push  buttons,  and 
UPLOAD the code. If there are any errors, see Lesson 3 for details about program uploading. 

23.5 Example picture 

Lesson 24: Four Digits Seven Segments Display 

24.1 Overview  
This  lesson  will  be  teaching  you  the  basics  on  using  a  4-digit  7-segment  display.  For  1-digit  7-segment 
display,  please  note  that  common  cathode  pin  connects  to  ground  while  common  anode  pin  connects  to  the 
power source. 

For  this  display,  the  one  that  controls  which  digit  to  show  is  the  common anode or common cathode pin. 
Although  just  one  digit  is  working  at  a  time,  you  are  capable  of  seeing  all  the  numbers displayed because the 
flashing is so quick that you barely see the interruptions, according to the principle of Persistence of Vision. 

24.2 Components Required 

1 x Nano R3  
1 x Breadboard 830p 
1 x 74HC595 IC  
1 x 4 Digit 7-Segment Display  
8 x 220 ohm resistors 
1 x Potentiometer 10kΩ   
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32 x M-M wires (Male to Male jumper wires)  

24.3 Component Introduction  

Four Digits Seven segments display  

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24.4 Connection  
Schematic 

Wiring diagram 

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24.5 Code 
After  wiring,  find  and  open  the  program  located  in  the  folder  Lesson  24  Four  Digits  Seven  Segments 
Display, and UPLOAD the code. If there are any errors, see Lesson 3 for details about program uploading. 

24.6 Example picture  

 
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Lesson 25: Thermometer Display on 4 Digit Seven Segment 

25.1 Overview  
This  lesson  based  on  the  previous  lesson,  instead of showing the voltage on 4 digit seven segment, we 
will show the temperature using thermistor. 

25.2 Components Required 

1 x Nano R3  
1 x Breadboard 830p 
1 x 74HC595 IC  
1 x 4 Digit 7-Segment Display  
8 x 220 ohm resistors 
1 x 10k ohm resistors 
1 x Thermistor 
30 x M-M wires (Male to Male jumper wires)  
 

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25.3 Connection  
Schematic 

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Wiring diagram 

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25.4 Code 
After wiring, find and open the program located in the folder Lesson 25 Thermometer Display on 4 Digit 
Seven Segment, and UPLOAD the code. If there are any errors, see Lesson 3 for details about program 
uploading.  

25.5 Example picture  

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