™

Wingspan
63” [1600mm]

Wing Area
742.8 sq in [47.9sq. dm.]

IN
Weight
DE 8 - 10 lbs
SA
MA [3629 - 4536 grams ]
U
Wing Loading
24.8 - 31.0 oz./sq.ft.
[76 - 95 g/sq. dm.]

Fuselage Length
55.25” [1403.5mm]

WARRANTY..... Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This
warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased
kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material
used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product.
By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all resulting liability. If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the
use of this product, the buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

Top Flite Models P.O. Box 788 Urbana, Il 61803 Technical Assistance Call (217)398-8970 www.top-flite.com

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

Entire Contents © Copyright 1999 P396P03 V1.1

 TABLE OF CONTENTS FINISHING .........................................................39 To make your R/C modeling experience totally
AND BUILDING SEQUENCE Prepare the model for covering....................39 enjoyable, get assistance with assembly and your first
Balance the airplane laterally.......................40 flights from an experienced, knowledgeable modeler.
INTRODUCTION ..................................................3 Cover your model with MonoKote® ..............40 You'll learn faster and avoid risking your model before
PRECAUTIONS ...................................................3 Covering sequence ......................................41 you're truly ready to solo. Your local hobby shop has
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE..........................3 Painting ........................................................41
Engine selection.............................................3 Join the control surfaces ..............................41 information about flying clubs in your area whose
Retractable landing gear ................................3 FINISHING TOUCHES.......................................42 membership includes qualified instructors.
Flaps...............................................................4 Decals ..........................................................42
Propellers .......................................................4 Panel lines....................................................42 You can also contact the Academy of Model
COMPETITION-MINDED MODELERS................4 GET YOUR MODEL READY TO FLY ...............42 Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,500
DOCUMENTATION ..............................................4 Balance your model .....................................42 chartered clubs across the country. We recommend
POWER ................................................................4 Final hookups and checks ...........................43 you join the AMA which will insure you at AMA club
FLIGHT CHARACTERISTICS .............................4 Control surface throws .................................43 sites and events. AMA Membership is required at
OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED.................................5 PREFLIGHT .......................................................43 chartered club fields where qualified flight instructors
BUILDING SUPPLIES .........................................5 Identify your model.......................................43
Glue & Filler ...................................................5 Charge your batteries...................................43 are available.
Tools ...............................................................5 Balance your propeller .................................43
DIE-CUT PATTERNS ......................................6&7 Ground check your model............................44 Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES ........................8 Range check your radio ...............................44 number below.
GET READY TO BUILD ......................................8 ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ...................44
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES.............................9 AMA SAFETY CODE ........................................44
Make the stab skins .......................................9 FLYING...............................................................45
Build the stabilizer ........................................10 Takeoff..........................................................45
Build the elevators........................................11 Flight.............................................................45
Build the fin and rudder................................13 Landing.........................................................45
BUILD THE FUSELAGE ...................................15 Two-View Drawing.........................Back Cover
Frame the fuselage top ................................15
Mount the stab and fin .................................17
Sheet the top of the fuselage.......................18
Build the bottom of the fuselage ..................20
Install the pushrods ......................................21 Academy of Model Aeronautics
Install the engine ..........................................23 5151 East Memorial Drive
Retract installation (nose gear) ....................24 PROTECT YOUR MODEL, Muncie, IN 47302
BUILD THE WING .............................................25 (800) 435-9262
Build the wing panels ...................................26 YOURSELF & OTHERS Fax (765) 741-0057
Retract installation (main gears) ..................28 FOLLOW THIS IMPORTANT
Sheet the bottom of the wing .......................29 or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org
Installing the aileron servos ........................29 SAFETY PRECAUTION
Joining the wing halves................................30
Install the ailerons ........................................31
Build the flaps...............................................31 Your Top Flite Gold Edition P-39 Airacobra is intended
Sheet the top of the wing .............................33 for scale and general sport flying including mild
Fit the wing to the fuselage..........................35 Your P-39 Airacobra is not a toy, but a sophisticated aerobatics such as loops, stall turns, rolls, etc. Its
FINISH THE LOWER FUSELAGE ....................36 structure is designed to withstand such stresses. If you
working model that functions very much like an
Nose Gear Steering intend to use your Airacobra for more abusive types of
actual airplane. Because of its realistic performance, flying such as racing or aggressive aerobatics it is your
Pull-pull system installation (Retracts only) ...36 if you do not assemble and operate your P-39
Canopy installation.......................................38 responsibility to reinforce areas of the model that will be
Cowling installation ......................................38 Airacobra correctly, you could possibly injure subjected to the resulting unusually high stresses.
Mount the receiver and battery ....................39 yourself or spectators and damage property.

2
 INTRODUCTION Please inspect all parts carefully before you start DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
to build! If any parts are missing, broken or
Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the defective, or if you have any questions about ENGINE SELECTION
Top Flite Gold Edition P-39 Airacobra. We are sure building or flying this model, please call us at Recommended engine size:
you are eager to build and fly your P-39 Airacobra (217) 398-8970 or e-mail us at www.top-flite.com .61 to .75 cu. in. [10cc to 13cc] 2-stroke
just as we were eager to build and fly our prototypes. and we'll be glad to help. If you are calling for .70 to .91 cu. in. [12cc to 16cc] 4-stroke
replacement parts, please look up the part
numbers and the kit identification number Your Top Flite Gold Edition P-39 Airacobra will
The nice thing about the Gold Edition P-39 Airacobra is (stamped on the end of the carton) and have perform well with any of the engines within the
that although it is a highly detailed scale model with all them ready when you call. recommended range. We flew our prototype with
the goodies, such as a realistic looking scale outline, the O.S.® 61FX and had more than ample power.
built up tail surfaces, retracts and flaps, it is one of the With a larger engine you will most likely find
few military aircraft that had a tricycle gear PRECAUTIONS yourself throttling back to achieve scale-like
configuration. Those of you who have not yet mastered speeds for level flight but will have plenty of extra
airplanes that are tail draggers, will appreciate this 1.You must build the plane according to the plan and power to vertically climb away from the pursuing
model's great ground handling characteristics. instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as enemy aircraft.
doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model.
In a few cases the plan and instructions may differ
One last note before you continue: we highly slightly from the photos. In those instances you
recommend you get some pictures or a book about should assume the plan and written instructions RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR
P-39 Airacobras or send for your documentation are correct. You may build your P-39 Airacobra either with
package as soon as possible. This way you can fixed or retractable landing gear. All the hardware
study the drawings and photos to get a feel for how 2.You must take time to build straight, true you need for fixed gear is supplied with this kit. We
your P-39 Airacobra should look when you're done. and strong. do, however, provide detailed instructions on how
This will also help you figure out what scale details to to install retractable landing gear available from
add and decide on a trim scheme. 3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first Robart. They are pneumatic to simplify installation
class condition, the correct sized engine and correct and hookup. You may choose to use another type
components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout your of retract but it is up to you to make modifications
Well, this should be enough to get your juices building process. required to fit them. For Retractable Landing Gear
flowing, so get your other projects off your you will need these items:
workbench, say goodbye to your significant other for 4. You must properly install all R/C and other
a while and...keep reading! components so that the model operates properly on ❏ 85 degree Main gear #606HD (ROBQ0006)
the ground and in the air. ❏ 105 degree Nose gear #TFP39 (ROBQ1660)
❏ Robart #188VR Variable rate air control kit
5. You must test the operation of the model (ROBQ2302)
before every flight to insure that all equipment is ❏ Extra air tubing (ROBQ2363)
operating and you must make certain that the model ❏ Robart #164G Hand pump w/gauge (ROBQ2388)
NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a has remained structurally sound.
top quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the ❏ Quick disconnects (ROBQ2395)
quality and flyability of your finished model depends on ❏ (4) #4 Flat washers (GPMQ3402)
how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way 6. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot, ❏ Pull-Pull kit (SULQ3121)
guarantee the performance of your completed model, you must fly the model only with the help of a ❏ Main gear strut covers (ROBQ2703)
and no representations are expressed or implied as to competent, experienced R/C pilot. ❏ Standard servo to operate air control valve
the performance or safety of your completed model. ❏ (4) 3/16" [4.8mm] Wheel collars (GPMQ4308)
Remember: Take your time and follow instructions to ❏ (2) 3/16" [4.8mm] Adjustable axle (GPMQ4282)
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.

3
 Flaps Sportsman and Expert classes in Sport Scale. Fun POWER
Scale and Sport Scale have the same flight With the .61 2-stroke engine the model will fly very well.
Your P-39 Airacobra is designed to incorporate requirements where you must perform ten maneuvers, The .61 will provide more power than the model needs
scale split flaps; however, flaps are optional and five of which are mandatory. The other five are up to for a scale speed, but you will appreciate the extra
not necessary for an excellent flying experience. you–easy stuff like cycling your landing gear, a slow, power when vertical maneuvers are being performed.
Without flaps, the takeoff roll is a bit longer and the low "inspection pass" with flaps extended, or maybe a
landing speed is slightly faster. If you do not wish touch-and-go. If you have never competed in a scale
to build the flaps, just disregard parts of the contest, you could start out in Fun Scale. In Fun Scale,
manual involving flap construction. the only documentation you need for static judging is
any proof that a full size aircraft of this type, in the
The flaps are not difficult to build, but they do paint/markings scheme on your model, did exist. A
require good craftsmanship to fit and operate well. single photo, a kit box cover, even a painting is
Flaps add nicely to the model's flight characteristics sufficient proof! If you're interested, contact the AMA
and scale appearance. Trim changes were not for a rule book which will tell you everything you need
needed for our prototype when flaps were to know. Look in the back of the AMA magazine (Model FLIGHT CHARACTERISTICS
extended. The only exception was when they were Aviation) for a schedule of events.
deployed when flying at full power. The trim During our flight testing we found no bad
corrections are discussed later in the manual during If you are not concerned with a scale trim scheme you characteristics in this airplane. Take-offs were
radio set up and you will find more information on can make a variation of the one on the box, or design straightforward with good ground handling. The plane
the use of the flaps in the flying section. your own. If you are going to compete in scale was airborne in approximately 100' [30m]. Once the
competition use the photos in your documentation plane is flying it goes exactly where you point it. Rolls
For flaps you will need one additional standard servo. package as a guide for your trim scheme. are very scale-like with the low rate settings. At high
rate it can roll more like an aerobatic sport plane.
Power-off stalls were very soft and predictable with
PROPELLERS DOCUMENTATION only the nose dropping in the stall. There was no
tendency for the plane to tip stall. Landings were
We did our test flying using Top Flite® Power Point™ Three view drawings and photo packs of full size straightforward with or without the flaps. Without flaps
Propellers and an OS .61FX engine. Initial test P-39 Airacobras are available from: you should maintain a bit more airspeed on your
flights were with the 12x6 and 12x8. As with any Scale Model Research approach. With full flap deployment the plane slows
model, you may experiment with different propellers 3114 Yukon Ave, Costa Mesa, CA 92626 very nicely and allows for a very soft landing. Unlike
to find out what type and pitch works best for you. (714) 979-8058 some models, the P-39 Airacobra does not exhibit
Fax: (714) 979-7279 any pronounced ballooning when flaps are deployed.
A full flap landing will generally require a little steeper
approach than an approach without flaps. Try setting
SCALE ACCURACY up your approach from a slightly higher altitude than
COMPETITION-MINDED MODELERS you might typically use for a landing without flaps.
The Top Flite P-39 Airacobra is a faithful reproduction Deploy full flaps and gradually decrease the power.
We designed our P-39 Airacobra from scale three- of the full size aircraft, with a few exceptions: Keep the nose down and maintain a consistent
view drawings supplied by Scale Model Research 1. The size of the horizontal stab / elevators has been approach to the beginning of the runway. When you
(address follows) and photos taken of various P-39 increased by about 10% to improve pitch stability. are over the runway threshold pull off all power and
Airacobras. The scale of your Gold Edition P-39 2. The size of the vertical fin / rudder has been the plane will settle in nicely to final touchdown. If you
Airacobra is 1 to 6.5. increased by about 10% to improve yaw stability. have never flown with flaps this is an excellent
3. The position of the retractable landing gear has model to learn with. The extra effort to construct the
If you plan to enter your P-39 Airacobra in scale been moved 1/2" [13mm] aft to allow a scale 4" P-39 Airacobra with flaps is well worth the effort when
competition, this kit qualifies for Fun Scale and the [100mm] wheel to clear the wing spar. the model is completed.
4
 OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED BUILDING SUPPLIES RECOMMENDED COVERING
TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES
These are additional items you will need to complete Here's a checklist of supplies you should have on
your P-39 Airacobra that are not included with your hand while you're building. Some of these are ❏ Top Flite Heat Gun (TOPR2000)
kit. Order numbers are in parentheses (GPMQ4130). optional. Use your own experience to decide what ❏ Top Flite Trim Seal Tool (TOPR2200)
Our exclusive brand is listed where possible: TOP is you need. We recommend Great Planes Pro™ CA -and-
the Top Flite® brand, GPM is the Great Planes® and Epoxy. ❏ Top Flite Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)
brand, and HCA is the Hobbico® brand. ❏ Top Flite Hot Sock™ (TOPR2175)
-or-
GLUE/FILLER ❏ 21st Century® Sealing Iron (COVR2700)
❏ 4 to 6 Channel radio with 5 to 7 servos ❏ 4 oz. [120g] Thin CA (GPMR6004) ❏ 21st Century Cover Sock (COVR2702)
❏ 2 oz. [60g] Medium CA (GPMR6009)
❏ Engine ❏ 2 oz. [60g] Thick CA (GPMR6015)
O.S. Engines Prop ❏ CA Accelerator (GPMR6035)
.61 FX 2-stroke 12 x 6, 13 x 6 ❏ CA Debonder (GMPR6039) EASY-TOUCH™ BAR SANDER
FS .70 Surpass 4-stroke 13 x 8 ❏ CA Applicator tips (HCAR3780)
❏ 30-minute (GPMR6047)
Super Tigre® Prop or
G-75 2-stroke 12 x 8, 13 x 8 ❏ 45-minute (GPMR6048) Epoxy
G-90 2 stroke 14 x 6, 15 x 6-10 ❏ 6-minute Epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ 4 oz. [120g] Pro wood glue (GPMR6161)
❏ Propellers appropriate for your engine ❏ Lightweight hobby filler (balsa color, HCAR3401)
❏ (1) Muffler extension (engine to muffler)
(for .61FX OSMG2582) TOOLS
❏ (2) 4" [100mm] Main wheels (ROBQ1518) ❏ #11 Blades (HCAR0311, 100 qty.)
❏ (1) 2-1/2" [64mm] Nose wheel (ROBQ1512) ❏ Single edge razor blades (HCAR0312, 100 qty.) A flat, durable, easy to handle sanding tool is a
❏ (2) 3/16" [4.8mm] Wheel collars (GPMQ4309) ❏ Razor plane (MASR1510) necessity for building a well finished model. Great
❏ Hobbico builder's triangle (HCAR0480) Planes makes a complete range of Easy-Touch Bar
❏ (4) 5/32" [4mm] Wheel collars (GPMQ4306)
❏ T-Pins (HCAR5100 (S), HCAR5150 (M), HCAR5200 (L) Sanders (patented) and replaceable Easy-Touch
❏ (1) 12 oz. [360cc] Fuel tank (GPMQ4105) ❏ Drill bits: Adhesive-backed Sandpaper. While building the P-
❏ (1) Y-connector for Aileron servos 1/16" [1.6mm] 3/32" [2.4mm] (or #41) 39 we used two 5-1/2" [140mm] Bar Sanders and
❏ (2) 6" [152mm] Servo extensions (1-aileron, 1-flap) 9/64" [3.6mm] (or 1/8") 5/32" [4.0mm] two 11" [280mm] Bar Sanders equipped with 80-grit
❏ (1) 24" [610mm] Servo extension for battery 1/4" [6.4mm] 3/16" [4.8mm] (or #10) and 150-grit Adhesive-backed Sandpaper. Here's
❏ Approximately 12" [300mm] Medium silicone fuel ❏ 1/4-20 Tap and drill (GPMR8105) the complete list of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders and
❏ 6-32 Tap and drill (GPMR8102) Adhesive Backed Sandpaper.
tubing (GPMQ4131)
❏ 8-32 Tap and drill (GPMR8103)
❏ (1) Fuel filler valve (GPMQ4160) ❏ Tap wrench (GPMR8120) 5-1/2" [140mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6169)
❏ (1) 3-1/2" [89mm] Spinner (CBAQ5430) ❏ Curved tip scissors (HCAR0667) 11" [280mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6170)
❏ 1/2" [13mm] (HCAQ1050) or 1/4" [6mm] (HCAQ1000) ❏ Great Planes plan protector (GPMR6167) or 22" [560mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6172)
R/C Foam rubber padding wax paper 33" [840mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6174)
❏ (3) rolls of Top Flite Super MonoKote® covering ❏ Masking tape (TOPR8018) 44" [1120mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6176)
❏ Easy-Touch™ bar sanders 11" [280mm] Contour Multi-Sander (GPMR6190)
❏ (1) 1/7 Scale pilot figure (TOPQ9000)
❏ Dremel® #178 cutting bit for countersinking
❏ (1) Fuel drop tank (TOPQ7900) screws in the servo hatch covers (DRER1178) (continued on page 8)
5
DIE-CUT PATTERNS

6
DIE-CUT PATTERNS

7
 (continued from page 5) Whenever just epoxy is specified you may use either Metric Conversion Chart
30-minute epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When 30-minute 1” = 25.4mm (conversion factor)
12' [300mm] roll of Adhesive-backed sandpaper: epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that you 1/64" = .4mm 1" = 25.4mm
80-grit (GPMR6180) use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy because you 1/32" = .8mm 2" = 50.8mm
150-grit (GPMR6183) will need the working time and/or the additional strength. 1/16" = 1.6mm 3" = 76.2mm
180-grit (GPMR6184) 3/32" = 2.4mm 6" = 152.4mm
220-grit (GPMR6185) Occasionally we refer to the top or bottom of the 1/8" = 3.2mm 12" = 304.8mm
model or up or down. To avoid confusion, the top or 5/32" = 4mm 15" = 381mm
Assortment pack of 5-1/2" [140mm] strips (GPMR6189) bottom of the model is as it would be when the 3/16" = 4.8mm 18" = 457.2mm
airplane is right side up and will be referred to as the 1/4" = 6.4mm 21" = 533.4mm
We also use Top Flite 320-grit (TOPR8030, 4 sheets) top even if the model is upside down during that 3/8" = 9.5mm 24" = 609.6mm
and 400-grit (TOPR8032, 4 sheets) wet-or-dry step, i.e. the top main spar is always the top main 1/2" = 12.7mm 30" = 762mm
sandpaper for finish sanding. spar even if the wing is upside down when you are 5/8" = 15.9mm 36" = 914.4mm
working on it. Similarly, move the former up means 3/4" = 19mm
move the former toward the top of the fuselage even
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES if the fuselage is upside down when you are working Note: An inch/mm scale is provided on the
on it. fuselage plan.
There are two types of screws used in this kit:
Sheet metal screws are designated by a number When you get to each step, read that step completely
and a length. through to the end before you begin. Frequently
there is important information or a note at the end of
For example #6 x 3/4" [19.1mm] the step that you need to know before you start. GET READY TO BUILD
Photos and sketches are placed ahead of the step 1. Unroll the plan sheets. Roll them inside out so
they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in they lie flat.
following steps to get another view of the same parts.
2. Remove all the parts from the box. Use a ballpoint
Machine screws are designated by a number, pen (not a felt tip pen) to lightly write the name or size
threads per inch and a length. COMMON ABBREVIATIONS on each piece so you can identify it later. Use the
die-cut patterns on pages 6 and 7, to identify and mark
For example 4-40 x 3/4" [19.1mm] Deg = degrees Elev = elevator the die-cut parts before you remove them from their die
Fuse = fuselage " = inches sheets. Many of the parts already have numbers
LE = leading edge Ply = plywood stamped on them, but in some cases the number is
Stab = stabilizer TE = trailing edge located alongside the parts or only on the die drawings.
LG = landing gear mm = millimeters You may remove all the die-cut parts from their die
When you see the term test fit in the instructions, it sheets now or wait until you need them. If a part is
means that you should first position the part on the TYPES OF WOOD difficult to remove, don't force it out but cut around it with
assembly without using any glue, then slightly a #11 blade. After you remove the parts from their die
modify or custom fit the part as necessary for the sheets, lightly sand the edges to remove slivers or die-
best fit. cutting irregularities. Save some of the larger leftover
pieces of wood.
Whenever the term glue is used you should rely
upon your experience to decide what type of glue to 3. Separate the parts into groups such as stab, fin,
use. When a specific type of adhesive works best for wing, and fuse. Store smaller parts in zipper-top
that step we will tell you what type of glue to use. BALSA BASSWOOD PLYWOOD food storage bags.
8
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES
MAKE THE STAB SKINS

❏ 1. Use the Hot Tip that follows or your own method

to glue two 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6 x 76 x 762mm] balsa
sheets together to make a 1/16" x 6" x 30" [1.6 x 152
x 762mm] sheet for one of the stab skins.

B. Tightly tape the trued edges of the sheets together

with masking tape.
Top Flite selects balsa that is intended for
sheeting, though occasionally a few of these
sheets may have a small nick or split near the
ends. If your kit contains a few of these sheets,
arrange them and glue them together so the
defects will not interfere with the final shape of
the skin.

E. Inspect the seam and press the sheets together

C. Place a sheet of Plan Protector or wax paper on where they do not align.
your workbench. Turn the taped together sheets over
and apply aliphatic resin (wood workers glue such as
Great Planes Pro) to the seams.
HOW TO MAKE THE STAB SKINS

F. Place weights on top of the sheets to hold them

down. We prefer plastic bags filled with lead shot, but
anything similar will do the job.

G. After the glue dries, remove the weights and

masking tape. Sand the sheet flat with your bar sander
and 150-grit sandpaper. The idea is to sand the
sheeting before you glue it to the structure. This
D. Use a credit card or something similar to eliminates low spots that can occur over the ribs from
A. Use a straightedge and a sharp #11 blade to true simultaneously press the sheets flat as you squeegee excessive sanding.
one edge of both sheets. Do not cut all the way the excess glue from the seam. Wipe the glue off your
through the first time but make several passes with squeegee so it’s ready for the next time. Immediately This is the same procedure we recommend when it is
your knife to prevent the wood from splitting. proceed to the next step. time to make the wing and fuse skins.

9
❏ 2. Place one of the balsa skins over the stab plan
and cut the sheeting as shown in the sketch below.
Be sure to cut the balsa skins slightly larger than the
plan to allow for positioning.

❏ 6. Fit the Stab LE Brace into the slot in rib S1. Test
fit S1 and the stab brace as shown on the plan.
When you are satisfied with the fit, glue S1 and the
❏ 3. Insert all the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa stab stab LE brace into position.
ribs except for rib S1 into the TE spar and place the
assembly over the plan.

❏ 4. Make sure all the ribs are fully seated into the
❏ 3. Use a small piece of the excess that you cut off TE spar and that the jig tabs are contacting the
to fill in the small area at the front of the stab skin. building board. Use a square to make sure the TE is
perpendicular to your building board. Glue the ribs
❏ 4. Cut a second skin to the same size and shape. to the TE with thin CA.

❏ 7. Glue the stab tips to the stab where shown on

the plan. Make sure the tips are centered (vertically)
on tip ribs S6 and the trailing edge.

Build the stabilizer

❏ 1. Cut the stab plan along the dashed line and

tape it to your building board. Cover the stab plan
with Plan Protector.

❏ 8. Relocate any T-pins that are protruding above

the structure so they will not be in the way when you
❏ 5. Sand a bevel on the front of the ribs to sand the stab tip and the leading and trailing edges.
accommodate the aft sweep of the LE. Cut the 5/16” Use a bar sander and 80-grit sandpaper to bevel the
x 15” [7.9 x 381] tapered balsa leading edge at the top of the stab tips to accommodate the sheeting.
❏ 2. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa stab TE angles shown on the plan. When you are satisfied Shape the top of the TE and LE to blend with the
spar to the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa stab TE. with the fit, glue the leading edge to the front of the stab tips and the ribs. We've marked the centerline of
These pieces are symmetrical so it does not matter ribs. Be sure that the top of the tapered balsa leading the stab tip and highlighted the top of it so you can
how you join them. edge is flush with the top of the ribs. see how the stab tip is tapered.

10
 WEIGHT BAGS

❏ 12. Cut the stab hinge blocks from one of the

❏ 10. Sheet the top of the stab with one of the stab 1/4" x 3/4" x 30" [6.4 x 19.1 x 762mm] balsa sticks.
skins you've already prepared. We recommend Glue the hinge blocks to the TE, ribs, and top
using aliphatic resin to glue the skin to the ribs and sheeting where shown on the plan. Trim the hinge
CA to glue the skin to the TE, LE and tips. Wet the blocks even with the TE and ribs.
outside of the sheeting in the middle near the leading
edge. This will make the skin flexible enough to glue ❏ 13. Sheet the bottom of the stab with the other
to the structure. Apply aliphatic resin to the ribs and stab skin you prepared. Use care not to add any twist
When we glue sheeting to a structure (wing, stab, position the top skin on the stab. Place your weights to the stab as it is no longer supported by the jig tabs.
fin), we use plastic bags filled with lead shot to on top of the stab skin, then use CA to glue the skin Once again, we suggest using aliphatic resin to glue
hold the sheeting down. These plastic bags filled to the LE, TE and tips. Leave the weights in position the skin to the ribs and medium CA for the rest.
with lead take the shape of the curved surfaces to until the aliphatic resin dries. Thirty minutes to an
apply uniform pressure and do not put marks in hour is enough time.
the balsa wood. You can purchase lead shot at Build the elevators
most stores where hunting supplies are sold. We
use #6 lead shot. One 25 lb. [1.134kg] bag costs
approximately fifteen to twenty dollars. You may
use small zip lock food storage bags to hold the
shot. Tape the bags shut to make sure they don't
open. Each bag should hold between 2-3 lbs.
[907-1361g.] of lead. Ten to fifteen 2-3 lbs. [907-
1361g.] bags should be enough for most projects.

❏ ❏ 1. Mark the location of the elevator ribs on both

sides of one of the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa
❏ 9. Before you sheet the top of the stab, refer to the elevator core where shown on the plan. This is easy.
photo at step 10. Use a ballpoint pen and a square ❏ 11. Remove the stab from your building board. Turn Simply lay the die-cut core on the plan and draw a line
to mark the center of the stab and the root end of the stab over and cut the jig tabs from the bottom of from the "tick" marks at the leading and trailing edge
both elevators on the TE of the stab. The marks will the ribs, then trim the bottom of the LE even with the of the elevator core. This will give you the positioning
help you align the stab with the fuse and align the ribs. Trim the stab tips and the bottom of the TE near for the ribs. When you have completed one side
elevators with the stab later on. the tips the same way you did on the top. transfer the lines to the other side.

11
 ❏ ❏ 6. Use a piece of leftover 1/16" [1.6mm] ❏ 10. Carefully cut away the center section of the
sheeting to make the elevator root cap. Glue the elevator leading edge so the elevators match the
root cap into position. shape as shown on the plan. Note which elevator
matches which side of the stab.
❏ ❏ 7. Place the elevator on the stab TE and shape
the elevator LE to match the shape of the stab TE. IMPORTANT NOTES ABOUT CA HINGES

This kit is supplied with a CA hinge material

consisting of a 3-layer lamination of Mylar and
polyester. It is specially made for hinging model
airplane control surfaces. When properly
❏ ❏ 2. Cut a 1/4" x 3/4" x 30" [6.4 x 19.1 x 762mm] installed, this type of CA hinge provides the best
balsa stick to the length shown on the plan for the combination of strength, durability and easy
elevator leading edge. Use a straightedge to draw installation. We trust all of our Gold Edition war
a center line the length of the elevator leading edge. birds to these hinges, but it is essential to install
Glue the elevator core to the LE directly on top of the them correctly. Carefully follow the hinging
line so that the core will be centered on the LE. Use instructions in this manual for the best result.
a square to make sure you glue the LE perpendicular
to the elevator core. The most common mistake made by modelers
Hint: Place a 1/4" [6.4mm] piece of balsa under the when installing CA hinges is making the hinge
square to raise it to the level of the LE. slots too tight restricting the flow of CA to the back
❏ ❏ 8. Proceed slowly and carefully, shaping the of the hinges; or not using enough glue to fully
❏ ❏ 3. Make the elevator hinge blocks from a 1/4" elevator ribs and the hinge blocks to match the secure the hinge over its entire surface area. This
x 5/16" x 24" [6.4 x 7.9 x 610mm] balsa stick. Glue elevator LE and the cross section on the plan. results in hinges that are only tack glued into the
the hinge blocks to the elevator as shown on the plan hinge slots. The techniques for cutting the hinge
(Do this for the top and bottom of the elevator core). slots and gluing in CA hinges (near the end of the
See photo at step 5. manual) have been developed to ensure thorough
and secure gluing.
❏ ❏ 4. Make the elevator torque rod blocks from
1/4" x 5/16" x 24" [6.4 x 7.9 x 610mm] balsa. Glue the
blocks to the elevator as shown on the plan. (Do this
for the top and bottom of the elevator core.) See
photo at step 5.

CUT HINGE SLOT

WITH HOBBY KNIFE
❏ ❏ 9. Insert two T-pins through the center of one of AND #11 BLADE
the elevator LE, near the tip and near the root. Place
❏ ❏ 5. Use four 1/16" x 5/16" x 24" [6.4 x 7.9 x a straightedge across the T-pins and draw the ❏ ❏ 11. Mark the location of the hinge slots on the
610mm] balsa sticks to make the elevator ribs. Cut centerline on the elevator LE with a ballpoint pen. elevator and stab where shown on the plan. With a
the sticks to the correct length, then glue them to the Draw a centerline along the TE of the stab the #11 blade, cut the hinge slots in the elevator and the
elevator core and the leading edge of the elevator. same way. stab along the centerlines you marked earlier.
12
 Build the fin and rudder

❏ 1. Tape the fuse plan to your building board. Cover

the fin and rudder portion of the plan with Plan Protector.

❏ 12. Using the sketch above, cut six hinges from

the CA hinge strip supplied with this kit. Snip the
corners off so they go into the slots easier. You may
cut all the hinges now, or cut them as you need them.
❏ 16. Determine which side of the stab looks the
best. Designate that side as the top. Use a file or a
❏ ❏ 13. Test fit the hinges into the slots. If the hinges rotary tool with a cut-off wheel to remove sharp
do not slide into the slots easily, work your knife edges or burrs on the ends of the elevator joiner
blade back and forth in the slot a few times to provide wire. Place the horizontal Stab and elevators over ❏ 2. Pin balsa fin ribs V1 through V5 to the plan
more clearance (it is really the back edge of the the plan and position the elevator joiner wire on the using T-pins as shown in the photograph. Check that
blade that does the work here in widening the slot). top of the elevators in the location shown. Mark the the fin ribs are perpendicular to the building board
leading edge of the elevators where the arm portion using a triangle or square.
of the joiner wire will enter as shown on the plan.
❏ 3. Carefully bevel the front of the ribs to
❏ 17. Drill a 9/64" (or 1/8") [3.6mm] hole at the marks accommodate the sweep of the tapered LE stick.
you made on the centerline of both elevator leading
edges for the joiner wire. Cut a groove in the ❏ 4. Cut the balsa leading edge from a 5/16" x 15"
leading edge of both elevators to accommodate the [7.9 x 381mm] tapered balsa leading edge. Cut it to
joiner wire. the length shown on the plan.
Hint: Use a 5/32" [4mm] brass tube sharpened at
one end to cut the grooves.

DRILL A 3/32" HOLE ❏ 18. Bevel the leading edges of the elevators to a
1/2" DEEP, IN CENTER "V" as shown in the cross section on the plan. Use
OF HINGE SLOT the centerline on the elevator leading edges as a
guide. Test fit the elevators to the stab with the joiner
❏ ❏ 14. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole, 1/2" [12.7mm] wire and the hinges. Note that the horn on the joiner
deep in the center of the hinge slots. Use a rotary wire points downward. Cut a small notch in the TE of
tool with a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill bit or a carbide cutter the stab for the horn on the joiner wire. If necessary,
for the best results. Reinsert your knife blade to remove the joiner and tweak it so both elevators are
clean out the slot after you drill the holes. in the same plane.
❏ 5. Pin the balsa leading edge stick and the die-cut
❏ 19. Once more, test fit the elevators to the stab 1/8” balsa fin TE spar to the plan in the same manner
❏ ❏ 15. Test fit the elevator to the stab with the with the hinges and the joiner wire. Make sure you as the ribs in step 2. Be sure to align the top of the fin
hinges. If any hinge slots are not wide enough or are can obtain the control throws indicated on page 43 of LE with the tops of the ribs, allowing the excess to
misaligned, make adjustments so the elevators the manual. If you cannot, increase the "V" on the protrude below the ribs (to be trimmed later). Do the
accurately fit the stab. leading edge of the elevators. same with the fin TE spar. Once you are satisfied with
Return to Step 1 and build the other elevator. Set the stab and elevators aside. the fit, glue the ribs to the LE and TE.
13
❏ 6. Glue the die-cut 1/8” balsa fin TE to the fin ❏ 14. Glue the second fin skin in position on the fin.
TE spar. Take care not to twist the fin when gluing the fin skin
in place.

❏ 15. At this point set the fin aside and proceed with
the assembly of the rudder.

❏ 16. Glue the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa front and rear
rudder core pieces together to form the rudder core.

❏ ❏ 22. Glue a leftover piece of balsa to the bottom

❏ 7. Glue the die-cut 1/8 balsa fin tip between the TE ❏ 17. Mark the location of the rudder ribs on both of the rudder to help in shaping the rudder for
spar and the top of V5. Be sure that the tip is centered sides of the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa rudder core covering. The photo above shows one side of the
on the LE and TE as shown in the photograph. where shown on the plan. Use the same procedure rudder with the ribs, hinge blocks and leftover balsa
as in step 1 of building the elevator. in place and shaped.
❏ 8. Cut three balsa hinge blocks from the 1/4" x
5/16" x 24" [6.4 x 7.9 x 610mm] balsa stick and glue
in place as shown on the plan. ❏ 18. Cut a 1/4" x 1/2" x 24" [6.4 x 12.7 x 610mm]
balsa stick to the length shown on the plan to make Repeat steps 20-22 for the right side of the rudder.
❏ 9. Rearrange any T-pins that protrude above the the rudder leading edge.
structure so they will not interfere with your bar
sander. Lightly sand the top of the LE and TE to
match the airfoil shape of the ribs to accommodate ❏ 23. Draw a centerline on the LE of the rudder.
the fin skin. Mark the location of the hinges. Cut your hinge slots
in the same manner you did for the elevator. When
❏ ❏ 10. Cut a 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6mm x 76 x 762mm] this is complete, taper the LE the same way as the
balsa sheet into two 8-1/2" [215.5mm] long pieces leading edge of the elevator.
and one 4-1/2” [114mm] long piece. Edge glue the
three sheets together in the same way the stab
sheeting was done. This will become one of the fin ❏ 19. Draw a centerline on the LE material and glue
skins. Use the Fin Skin Pattern on the plan to make the rudder core on to the center line. ❏ 24. Install the rudder control horn. Rest the small
one fin skin. nylon control horn on the rudder as indicated on the
❏ ❏ 20. Cut four balsa hinge blocks from a 1/4" x plan and mark where to position the die-cut 1/16"
❏ 11. Repeat step 10 to make a second fin skin. 5/16" x 24" [6.4 x 7.9 x 610mm] balsa stick and fit [1.6mm] plywood control horn mount. Remove the
them to the LE of the rudder as shown on the plan. balsa from this area and glue the control horn mount to
❏ 12. Remove the T-pins from the fin assembly and Glue them in place on the left side of the rudder as the rudder. Mount the control horn to the plywood base
glue one of the fin skins in position. Align the rear of shown in the photo at Step 22. with two #2 x 3/8” sheet metal screws.
the skin with the TE of the fin and the bottom of the
skin with V1.
❏ ❏ 21. Use a 1/16" x 5/16" x 24" [1.6 x 7.9 x ❏ 25. It's time to do the final sanding of the rudder.
❏ 13. Remove the fin from the building board. 610mm] balsa stick to make the rudder ribs. Cut the Verify the shape and taper of the rudder against the
Remove the jig tabs from the other side of the fin and sticks to the correct length, then glue them to the fin. When you are satisfied, set it aside and we'll get
lightly sand the fin ribs, LE and TE to shape. rudder cores and the leading edge of the rudder. started on the fuselage.

14
 BUILD THE FUSELAGE ❏ 7. Locate the two formers F1 and F1A. Using
6-minute epoxy, glue the two F1 formers together
Frame the Fuselage top and then the two F1A formers and set them aside
to dry. Do not glue the F1 and F1A formers together
❏ 1. Cut the fuselage plan on the dashed lines and at this time.
tape the fuse top view to your building board. Cover
the plan with Plan Protector.

❏ 4. You will notice that the right side main stringer

gets cut away forward of F1. Leave it in place for
now. This will help to secure the nose ring as we
begin the process of framing the fuselage.

❏ 2. Gather the three 3/16" x 3/8" x 36" [4.8 x 9.5 x

914mm] grooved main stringers. Cut one of the
stringers into two pieces. One piece will be 20-3/4" ❏ 8. Test fit all die-cut 1/8" [302mm] plywood formers
[527mm] long; the other piece, 15-1/4" [387.5] long. (F2 through F10) to the main stringers over their
Place the 20-3/4 " [527mm] long main stringer on top locations on the plan. You may need to bevel the
of the 36" [914mm] main stringer so the ends align. notches in some of the rear formers to accommodate
Cut the stringers and position them so that the left the angle at which they join the main stringers. Use a
side main stringer has the splice at former F6. Do the small square to make sure the formers are vertical
same thing with the 15-1/4" [394mm] main stringer and glue them to the main stringers. Don't be
on the right side but with the splice location at F7. concerned if the formers are slightly warped. You will
The splice locations are noted on the top view of the be able to straighten them when you add the stringers.
plan. Cut, splice and glue them together at an ❏ 5. Pin the two stringers to the plan so the left side
approximately 45-degree angle as shown in the main stringer is spliced at F6 and the right side main
sketch (use your miter box if you have one). stringer is at F7 as shown on the plan.

❏ 3. Use a razor saw to cut small v-notches, 3/32"

[2.4mm] deep in the inside of the 36" [914mm] ❏ 6. Refer to the Pushrod Locations area on the fuse
stringer. Do this in the area that will be glued between plan and drill 3/16" [4.8mm] holes through the punch ❏ 9. Test fit and then glue the Stab Saddles into
the nose ring and F1. This will allow the stringers to marks in the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood formers position over the main stringers and to former F9
conform to the shape as shown on the plan. F8 and F9. One hole in F8, two in F9. and F10.

15
 stringers will be referred to as just stringers). Cut the fit, cut the excess sheeting at F4. Glue the sheeting
other end of the stringers so they end in the middle of to the two side stringers, the main stringer, the stab
former F3. Use a small square to hold the formers saddle and F4.
vertical as you glue the stringers to them and to the
stab saddle. Hint: Form the sheeting to the stringer and draw a
line along the stringer from the back side of the
❏ 13. Repeat step 12 for the right side of the fuselage. sheet. Now mark a line 3/32" [2.4mm] below that
line. This will give you a cut line that will allow the
❏ 14. Glue stringers from F3 to the front of the nose sheeting to be in the center of the stringer.
❏ 10. Test fit former F1 onto the main stringers. Use ring on the left side of the fuselage. Glue stringers
the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] ply firewall gauge (FG) to from F3 to F1 on the right side. Use the firewall gauge
set the proper amount of down thrust. Permanently to set the down thrust angle on the nose ring to match ❏ 18. Repeat step 16 & 17 for the right side of
glue F1 into position. the firewall. the fuselage.

❏ 15. Glue one of the 1/8" x 3/16" x 36" [3.2 x 4.8 x

914mm] stringers into the slot in the side of the main
stringer. Cut part of another stringer to length to fill ❏ 19. Cut one of the 3/32" x 2 3/4" x 30" [2.4 x 70 x
❏ 11. Carefully bevel the front of the main stringers the rest of the slot. Repeat this for the other side of 762mm] balsa sheets to a length of 14" [356mm].
to the angle shown on the plan. Glue one half of the the fuselage. Test fit the 14" [356mm] long balsa sheet onto the
nose ring, part NR, to the face of the main stringers. main stringer from F4 forward to former F1 on the
Be certain when gluing the nose ring into position ❏ ❏ 16. Test fit one of the 3/32" x 3" x 36" [2.4 x 76 fuselage right side. Trim the sheeting to fit between
that the notches for the stringers are on the left side x 914mm] balsa sheets onto the main stringer on the the main stringer and the second stringer. When
of the fuselage. left side of the fuselage. Fit the sheet from the back satisfied with the fit, glue the sheeting to the stringers
of the fuselage forward. Minor trimming may be and the formers F1- F4.
required to get a good fit. When you are satisfied
with the fit, tape the sheet in place where the
sheeting meets the main stringer.
❏ 20. Measure the distance from former F4 to F2.
Cut the remaining piece of sheeting to that length
and glue it in position on the left side of the fuselage.

Note: The photo in step 19 shows the proper

❏ ❏ 12. Temporarily place the stab on the stab saddles positioning for the sheeting when you have
and hold it in place with weights. Cut the ends of two completed steps 19 and 20. Subsequent
3/16" x 3/16" x 30" [4.8 x 4.8 x 762mm] balsa stringers photographs show the sheeting already in place to
so they fit the stab saddle as shown in the photo (from ❏ ❏ 17. Trim the sheeting so that it can be glued to the nose ring. Disregard the fact that the sheeting is
now on, all 3/16" x 3/16" x 30" [4.8 x 4.8 x 762mm] the second stringer. When you are satisfied with the there, the instructions will be correct.

16
Mount the stab and fin

❏ 1. Remove the elevators from the stab.

❏ 7. Test fit the fin on the fuselage at former F10.

Sand a little of the stab where the leading edge comes
together. This is necessary to give proper clearance
❏ 2. Place the stab on the stab saddle, aligning the for the leading edge of the fin to attach to the front of
centerline mark on the trailing edge of the stab with the stab. Sand the fin sheeting as needed to achieve
the center of the fuselage. Place weights on top of a good fit with the stab.
the stab to hold it in position. View the fuse from the
rear and make sure the stab is level. To confirm,
place balsa blocks (not included) under both sides of
the stab and measure the distance from the
centerline on the TE of the stab to your building
board. If necessary, reposition the balsa blocks, shift ❏ 4. Place a leftover piece of 3/16" x 3/16" [4.8 x
the weight or carefully sand the high stab saddle until 4.8mm] stringer in the top center notch of formers F3
the stab will rest level. Be sure to sand carefully and and F4. Insert a T-pin in the center of the stringer at F3.
a little at a time so as not to change the incidence Place a Hobbico Retractable Fabric Tape Measure
angle of the stab. (HCAR0478) (or any suitable measuring device) over
the T-pin and measure the distance from the pin to the
left tip of the horizontal stab and then to the right tip of
the stab. Adjust the stab until the distance from the pin
is the same on both sides of the stab

❏ 8. Remove the vertical fin and place the elevator

❏ 5. Recheck to see that your stab is still level. Mark joiner wire into position into the slot in the stab saddle.
the exact location where you will glue the stab to
the saddle.

❏ 6. Now that you are sure the stab will align, remove it ❏ 9. After you are satisfied with the fit of the fin to the
❏ 3. With the stab resting on the saddles and and apply 30-minute epoxy to the joining areas and stab, apply a film of 30-minute epoxy to the base of
weights on top to hold it down, check the stab glue it to the fuse sheeting and the ply stab saddle. Use fin rib V1 and to the stab sheeting. Pin V1 of the fin
incidence by placing an Incidence Meter across one the tape measure technique to recheck your alignment. assembly so that you get a good glue joint between
side of the stab, then the other side of the stab near Make sure the stab is level and the incidence is correct. V1 and the stab. Align the LE of the fin with the
the fuse. If necessary, adjust the stab saddles so the Wipe away excess epoxy before it cures. Do not disturb centerline on the plan. Immediately proceed to the
incidence is parallel with your building board. the fuse until the epoxy is fully cured. next step.

17
 Sheet the top of the fuselage

Before proceeding with sheeting the top of the

fuselage, you need to decide how you are going to
finish the cockpit area. You have the option of
creating a full cockpit or simply gluing a pilot bust
under the canopy. There is no question the addition
of the full cockpit interior is going to really add to your
model. We would suggest that you take the
additional time to do this.

❏ 10. Hold the fin vertical with masking tape strapped ❏ 3. Test fit the stringers into position in the notches
across the top of the fin over to both stab tips. Adjust on former F5C back to the tail. At the tail, sand the
the tension on the masking tape to pull the fin to one stringers to fit where they meet with the fin and stab.
side or the other until it is vertical. Re-check alignment When you're satisfied with the fit, glue the stringers
and do not disturb the fin until the epoxy is fully cured. in place.

❏ 1. Cut formers F3, F4 and F5 flush with the top of the

sheeted stringers. This will create our cockpit area.

❏ 11. Draw a centerline on the balsa TE. Place the

rudder into position on the rudder TE and mark the
location of the hinges. Cut the hinge slots into the fin
and the rudder LE. ❏ 4. Test fit the stringers into position in the notches
on former IP forward to the nose ring and firewall.
The stringers go to the nose ring on the left and
❏ 12. Now's a good time to sand all of the components center stringer. The right side stringer should stop at
of the tail structure. the front of F1. Glue them in place when you are
satisfied with the fit.
❏ 2. Locate and glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] ply
Let's get the top of the fuselage sheeted and get it off former F5C and former IP into position as shown on Have you decided on your cockpit option yet? No
the building board! the plan. more procrastination!

18
 CONSTRUCTION WITHOUT A FULL
COCKPIT INTERIOR

❏ 5. Cut away former F3 and IP as shown in ❏ 8. After the fillet has been glued into place use some
the photograph. Lightweight Hobby Filler (Balsa Color, HCAR3401)
to fill any gaps and create a smooth fillet.
If you are choosing not to have a full cockpit
interior, make a deck out of the 1/16" x 3" x 24" ❏ 6. Cut the tail fillet pattern from the plan and
[1.6 x 76 x 610mm] balsa sheeting. This should make two of them from some of the leftover pieces of
be placed between formers IP and F5C and 3/32 [2.4mm] balsa sheeting.
trimmed flush with the side stringers.

CONSTRUCTION WITH A FULL

COCKPIT INTERIOR

❏ 9. Cut one of the sheets of 3/32" x 2-3/4" x 30" [2.4

x 70 x 762mm] balsa sheeting to form the front and
rear decking. Before test fitting it into place, wet the
wood with the water and alcohol solution so that the
wood becomes flexible enough to conform to the
shape of the formers. We recommend cutting a piece
for the left side of the fuselage and one for the right,
joining the two sheets on the center stringer. The
radius of the formers is too tight to complete the
❏ 7. The fillet pattern is slightly oversized, so you will sheeting with one sheet of balsa. When you have
have to do some final fitting to get a good fit. The fillet completed one side of the fuselage do the same for
If you are choosing to have a full cockpit interior, should fit around the tail surfaces and forward to the the other side.
make a deck out of the 1/16" x 3" x 24" [1.6 x 76 center of F8. When you are satisfied with the fit, wet
x 610mm] balsa sheeting. This should be placed the fillet pieces with a solution of water and alcohol. NOTE: The photo above, incorrectly shows sheeting
between formers F4 and F5C and trimmed flush This will allow the balsa to become flexible without on the left side of the fuselage in the nose area. Do
with the side stringers. cracking. When the balsa has become flexible not sheet the area from F-2 forward to the nose ring
enough, glue the fillet into position. on the left side of the fuselage.

19
 Build The Bottom Of The Fuselage

❏ 10. Cut out the ABS plastic exhaust stacks. After

trimming, mark "left"on one and "right" on the other,
on the back of each piece so you are sure to get a ❏ 1. Place the fuselage upside down in a stand. We
good fit when doing the final assembly. Tape one in prefer the Robart Super Stand. You can see it in
place on the side of the fuselage as shown on the many of the following photos.
plan. Trace around the part with a pen to indicate
where you will be cutting balsa wood away. ❏ 2. Locate the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood
fuselage formers F1A through F10A for the bottom
of the fuselage.

❏ 4. Locate the two wing saddles. Cut 1/8" [3.2mm]

off of the front end of one of the saddles. This will be
P-39 Fact the right wing saddle. This is very important! By
At the time this manual was published there assembling the saddle correctly you will have the
was only one flyable P-39 in the world! proper amount of right thrust needed for the plane to
fly well.

❏ 11. Cut out the area you just marked. Do this

carefully so the exhaust stack will have a good fit into
this cavity. Set the stack aside for now. It will be
glued in place after the final covering.
❏ 5. If you will be installing fixed landing gear, drill
3/16" [4.8mm] holes in formers F2A through F5A for
❏ 12. Do the same for the other side of the fuselage. the nose gear steering pushrod. These holes are on
the left side of the former. Refer to the plan for the
location of the holes. Cut the slot on the left wing
That's it for the top half of the fuselage. You're ❏ 3. Glue former F3AD to F3A. From now on the saddle as shown in the sketch above. There are
halfway there! Let's proceed with the bottom half. F3A/F3AD assembly will be referred to as F3A. embossed cut lines on the saddle.

20
❏ 6. Test fit formers F1A, F3A and F6A to the wing ❏ 11. Locate the 1/8" x 2-3/4" x 2-3/4"[3.2 x 70 x ❏ 16. Glue the servo mounting rails into position as
saddle. The formers and saddle have been notched 70mm] firewall backplate. Glue it to the back of F1 shown on the plan (See photo at Step 21.)
to allow the structure to interlock together. When you and F1A with 5-minute epoxy. Locate it as shown on
assemble this structure, the longer wing saddle the plan. ❏ 17. Cut a plastic pushrod outer tube to length for
should be on the left side of the assembly. the elevator and put it in place. This tube should go
Remember, you are building this upside down. Make ❏ 12. Glue two F4A formers and two F5A formers to through the hole that you previously drilled in F9.
sure that you have the longer wing saddle on what each side of the wing saddle as shown on the plan. Roughen the tube with sandpaper in the areas where
will be the left side of the fuselage. Glue former F2A in place as shown on the plan. the tubes will be glued.

❏ 7. Both formers must be square to the saddles. ❏ 18.Mark the rudder pushrod exit on the left side of
When you are satisfied with the fit, glue F3A and F6A the fuse where shown on the fuselage plan. Drill a
to the saddles with CA. 3/16" [4.8mm] hole on the mark. Angle the drill
approximately 25 degrees when drilling on the mark.
❏ 8. Glue F1A to the saddle using 30-minute epoxy. This will allow the pushrod to exit the fuse at the
Set the saddle assembly aside to dry. correct angle

❏ 13. Glue formers F7A, F8A, F9A and F10A into ❏ 19. Cut the plastic pushrod outer tube to length for
position as shown on the plan. Be sure that they are the rudder. Roughen the tube with 150 grit
straight when you glue them in place. Do not glue sandpaper where it will be glued to the wood. Glue
F6AD in position yet. the tube in position through the hole you just drilled
in the side of the fuselage.

❏ 9. When the epoxy in the saddle assembly has

cured, test fit the saddle assembly to the fuselage.

❏ 14. Temporarily place two balsa side stringers in

position as shown in the photograph. This will give ❏ 20. Cut the .074 wire pushrods to length for each
you the position for gluing F6AD in place. When of the control surfaces. Clean residual oil from the
satisfied with the fit, glue F6AD to F6A, and remove pushrod wire with a cloth dampened with alcohol or
the stringers. other solvent. Cut six 3/8” spacers from the white
inner pushrod tube, then slide them, evenly spaced,
onto the wire. Make sure you position the bushings
Install the Pushrods at the ends of the wire so they will not protrude from
the guide tube, or the controls could become
❏ 15. Before we close the rest of the fuselage, this jammed during flight. If the spacers slide easily onto
would be a good time to position the pushrods and the wire, secure them with a drop of thin CA (make
❏ 10. When you are satisfied with the fit, glue it servo mounting rails. Locate a 1/4" x 3/8" x 36" sure the CA sets before you slide the pushrod into
permanently in place onto the fuselage. This should [6.4 x 9.5 x 914mm] basswood stick and cut four the guide tube!). If the spacers are difficult to slide
be done with 5-minute epoxy and some weights to pieces as shown on the plan to fit the fuselage. on, cut them to a shorter length so they will be a little
hold it in place. Allow the epoxy to cure. These become the servo mounting rails. easier to slide onto the wire.

21
 removable. It will be a little tedious and may require
you to do a little shaping, but the end result will be
fairly easy tank removal if needed.

❏ 21. Locate five die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] ply guide

tube holders. Drill a 3/16" [4.8mm] hole through the ❏ 24. Mount the elevator, rudder and throttle servos
punch mark on the holders. into position as shown on the plan. Once they are in
place and you are satisfied with the position of the
❏ 22. Support the plastic outer pushrod tube with servos and the plastic outer pushrod tubes, glue the
the five die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] ply guide tube holders tubes in place with a few drops of CA. ❏ 27. Locate the die-cut 1/8" fuel tank floor. Put a
by gluing them in place at F6 - F8. piece of 1/4" [6.4mm] foam between the floor and the
fuel tank. Attach the tank to the floor with #32 rubber
This next step only applies if you are going to bands (included in the kit). Trial fit the fuel tank into the
have a fixed gear. Skip step 23 if you are fuselage. The floor should extend all the way to the
installing retracts. firewall and 1/4" [6.4mm] beyond former F3. The
notches in the leading edge of the floor are there to
allow some clearance for the blind nuts that will be
added to the firewall later. The tab in the center of the
floor is going to be the point at which the floor will attach
to the firewall. Remove the assembly from the fuselage.

❏ 25. This is a good time to get the fuel tank

installation finished. Cut the cross-brace on F2 out of
the fuselage. This is necessary to give clearance for
the fuel tank.

❏ 26. It's time for you to make another decision. The

❏ 23. Install the plastic pushrod outer tube for the P-39 (as in other models you may have built) has a
nose wheel steering by cutting the tube to length and very tight compartment for the fuel tank. The easy
then inserting it through the holes that you drilled in way would be to make the fuel tank a permanent
the die-cut fuselage formers F2A through F5A on the installation. Though it is easier, this has some
left side of the fuselage. The tube should pass potential long-term problems. If you wish to mount it ❏ 28. Cut a piece of 1/4" x 3/8" [6.4 x 9.5mm]
through the slot in the wing saddle and reach to the permanently, go ahead and do that now. basswood to fit between the wing saddles and locate
front of the firewall. Use a 3/16" [4.8mm] drill to make it approximately 1/4" [6.4mm] behind F3. Glue it in
a hole in the firewall at the position the pushrod will We recommend that you take a little time and use the place so that the basswood strip is flush with the top
exit the firewall. following instructions to mount the tank so it can be of the wing saddle structure.

22
❏ 29. Trial fit the floor assembly with the fuel tank Install the Engine
into the fuselage. Be sure that the aft end of the floor
is resting against the basswood block you glued in.
Mark a line on the firewall where the floor rests.
Remove the tank and floor.

❏ 34. Glue the pushrod in place at the firewall.

❏ 35. When you installed the pushrods in the rear of

the fuselage you glued the guide tube holder to the
formers. For the tank installation use #2 x 3/8"
[9.5mm] screws to attach the guide tube holders to ❏ 39. On firewall former F1 there are four pin punch
❏ 30. From leftover 1/4" x 1/2" [6.4 x 12.7mm] balsa, formers F3 and F4. This will allow you to move the marks. Connect the pin punch marks with a pencil as
cut two pieces 5/8" [15.9mm] in length and glue them throttle pushrod out of the way when the need to shown on the sketch. Continue the centerline onto
to the firewall. One will be 1/16" [1.6mm] above the remove the tank arises. former F1A.
mark on the firewall. The other will be 1/16" [1.6mm]
below the mark. These two blocks form the channel ❏ 36. Glue the outer pushrod tube to the guide tube ❏ 40.Use CA to tack-glue the engine mount to the
that your floor will slide into when put into place. holder at F4. Do not glue the outer pushrod to the firewall. Use the lines just drawn on the firewall as a
guide tube holder at F3. reference for locating the engine mount in the center
❏ 31. Test fit the fuel tank assembly into the fuselage Note: When you want to remove your fuel tank you of the firewall.
and make sure the floor slides in between the two will need to slide the guide tube holder at F3 back to
blocks you glued to the firewall. Drill a pilot hole in F4. If it has been glued in place it will be difficult to
the floor where the floor meets the basswood block remove the tank assembly.
and then screw the floor to the basswood block with
a #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] screw.

❏ 32. With the fuel tank floor still in place, cut a plastic
outer pushrod tube to length for the throttle servo.

❏ 33. Hold your engine against the firewall to locate

where the throttle pushrod will need to come through
the firewall. Drill a 3/16" hole in that location. Slide
two of the ply guide tube holders over the plastic ❏ 41. Once you are satisfied with your engine mount
pushrod, and then put the pushrod in place so that it position, drill four 3/16" [4.8mm] holes for the engine
is just extending through the firewall. The ply guide ❏ 37. Carefully cut away the right side main stringer mount. (A long drill bit may prove helpful if you have
tube holders should be positioned at F3 and F4. A that has been holding the nose ring in place. one, but is not necessary. We drilled ours using a
notch is in the fuel tank floor to allow placement of standard bit). After you have drilled the holes, install
the guide tube holder at F3. Double check the ❏ 38. Locate and drill 15/64" [6mm] holes through the four 6-32 blind nuts and fit the engine mount to the
positioning to be sure everything lines up properly. firewall to accommodate the fuel line and pressure line. firewall.
23
Step 41 - 43 apply only for the fixed gear installation.
Skip to step R1 if you are installing retracts.

❏ R2. Locate the 1/4" x 1" x 12" [6.4 x 25.4 x

305mm] plywood nose gear rail. Cut two rails to
match the pattern on the plan. Sand them to match
the photograph above. Be sure you sand enough
wood away to give clearance for the fuselage as
❏ 42. Drill 1/8" [3.2mm] holes in F1A at the four
punch marks for the nose gear bearing mount.
it tapers forward to the nose ring. ❏ R5. The left side of the landing gear plate
Mount the nose gear bearing to the firewall with 4-40 requires a slight modification to accommodate the
bolts, washers and blind nuts. narrow fuselage. Using a Dremel cut-off wheel or
a bench grinder, remove the corner of the plate on
❏ 43. Enlarge the 5/32” hole in the nose gear bearing the left side of the landing gear plate as shown in
with a 3/16” drill bit. Install the steering arm assembly the photo. Drill a 1/8" hole in the position shown in
into the nose gear bearing. Put the nose gear wire the photo.
in position.

❏ 44. Cut the nose gear pushrod to length and install

it using a Z-bend at the steering arm and a screw-
lock pushrod connector at the servo.
❏ R3. Cut the 3/8"x 30" [9.5 x 762mm] balsa
triangle stock into two pieces approximately
4-1/8" [105.2mm] in length. Glue the triangle
Retract Installation (nose gear) pieces to the inside edges of the wing saddle with
30-minute epoxy.

❏ R6. Bolt the nose gear retract into position on

the rails with #4 flat washers and 3/8" [9.5mm]
sheet metal screws included in the kit. The nose
wheel steering control will use a pull-pull system
which will be installed when we get to finishing the
lower half of the fuselage.
❏ R1. Using the pattern on the plan as a guide, cut ❏ R4. Glue the two plywood nose gear rails to the
out the center portion of the firewall to give bottom of the firewall, wing saddle and triangle We will discuss the installation of the main gear
clearance for the Robart nose gear unit and the stock with 30-minute epoxy. Clamp them in retracts when we get to that point in the
mounting rails. position and set the assembly aside to dry. wing construction.

24
 ❏ 48. Install the engine onto the engine mount and BUILD THE WING
put the prop nut back on the engine to hold the
spinner backplate tight to the nose ring spacers. NOTE: The wing panels are built "UPSIDE-DOWN"
on the plan. Since it is the standard procedure to
❏ 49. Locate the piece of 3/32" x 2 3/4" [2.4 x 70mm] show the Top View of the wing and the wing
balsa sheet that was left over from sheeting the panels are built upside-down, the LEFT wing
fuselage on page 16, step 20. Glue it in position from panel is built over the RIGHT Wing Top View and
F2 to the nose ring. vice-versa. This does not present any problems -
just be sure to build a left and a right wing.
❏ 50. Leave the engine and spinner backplate
mounted in place throughout the entire sheeting of ❏ 1. Locate the four 1/4" x 3/8" x 36" [6.4 x 9.5 x
the fuselage. This will assure you that the nose ring 914mm] basswood Wing Spars, then cut them so they
and spinner backplate will be properly aligned when are 1/2" [12.7mm] longer than shown on the plan. Save
the sheeting is glued in place. Some of the the cut-off ends for the flap servo hatch mounts.
❏ 45. Glue the other half of the nose ring (NR) in photographs shown in the manual do not show the
position on the front of the fuselage. Temporarily glue engine and spinner backplate mounted. We removed
a few 1/16" [1.6mm] spacers to the nose ring to act them for clarity in the instructions, but be sure to
as spacers for the spinner. leave the engine and spinner in place as you
continue building.
Hint: When you complete the entire fuselage
construction and sheeting, wet the fuselage sheeting
from F2 forward to the nose ring and let it dry
overnight. After the wood has dried you can break
the spinner backplate away from the nose ring and
the temporary shims.

❏ 51. At this point you must install the pushrod for the
elevator. After we get the fuselage closed you will no
longer have access to the clevis. Make sure when 4-40
installing the clevis that you have a piece of tubing BLIND
over it to keep it locked in position. You may also
NUT
❏ 46. Position the engine in place on the engine install the rudder and throttle connections at this time.
mount. With the spinner backplate centered on the
nose ring, tack glue the spinner backplate to the Set the fuselage aside and get started on the wing.
1/16" [1.6mm] spacers. Lock the spinner backplate in Don't be concerned that we still have some work
place with the prop nut. This now shows the exact remaining on the fuselage, it will be helpful to leave
position for mounting the engine. it open until the wing is all mounted.

❏ 47. Mark the location of the mounting holes on

the mount. Remove the engine but leave the spinner
backplate glued to the nose ring spacers. Drill a #29
hole ( a 1/8" [3.2mm] bit will be close if you don't have
a set of number bits) and tap the mount with a 8-32 tap.
Hint: The Great Planes Dead Center™ Tool works ❏ 2. Perform this step only if you are going to be
great for this! installing flaps. Drill 1/8" [3.2mm] holes through the

25
punch marks in the two die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood
Flap Bellcrank Plates. Assemble the bellcrank parts
as shown in the sketch (don't worry, there is no right
and left - you can't build them backwards). Put a drop
of 6-minute epoxy on the 4-40 blind nut and threads
to prevent the bellcrank from vibrating loose.

❏ 3. Punch out all of the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa

Wing Ribs and the die-cut 1/8” ply Rib Doublers. ❏ ❏ 2. Test fit wing ribs W4 - W11 onto the die-cut 1/8" ❏ ❏ 7. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" [ 3.2mm] balsa inner
Smooth out any imperfections with sandpaper. [3.2mm] balsa spar web. DO NOT glue together yet. TE spar and the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa outer
TE spar onto the end of the ribs. Sand the spars
Perform steps 3 and 4 only if you intend to install flaps. where they meet and make sure you get a good joint.
(If you have never had flaps, this would be an excellent Make sure that when the ribs are positioned in the
plane to use them on. When flaps are deployed there spar slots they are contacting the top of the slot.
is very little ballooning and the plane slows very nicely Take a close look down the trailing edge of the ribs
without tip stalling. We would recommend you take the and be sure they are in line with one another.
extra effort and put them on).

❏ ❏ 3. Slide the flap bellcrank mount into the slot in

❏ 4. Locate wing ribs W-4, W-5, W-6 and plywood W4. Be sure that the bellcrank is oriented as shown
doublers W4-R, W5-R, W6-R. Use 6-minute epoxy on the plan and that it faces the top of the wing.
to glue the ribs and doublers together. Be sure to
make a LEFT and a RIGHT of each rib assembly.

Saturate the flap ribs with some thin CA. This will
prevent them from breaking off when you are
handling the wing during the building process.

❏ ❏ 4. Put W3 in place on the balsa spar web and

❏ 5. If you are going to be installing the retractable slide the bellcrank mount into the slot in W3 as shown. ❏ ❏ 8. Pin the inner and outer trailing edge spars to
landing gear, cut away the shaded area as shown in the flat work surface.
❏ ❏ 5. Put W2 in place on the balsa spar web.
the photograph. Do this for ribs W4, W5, and W6.

❏ ❏ 9. Once you are satisfied that everything fits

well, glue the balsa spar web to the ribs and the
Build The Wing Panels basswood spar with CA glue. It is important that the
glue joint between the basswood spar and the balsa
Reminder, as you are building the wings you are spar web is solid. Be sure you glue the ribs to both
building them upside-down. TE spars.

❏ ❏ 1. Locate two of the basswood wing spars you ❏ ❏ 6. Pin one of the 1/4" x 3/8" [6.4 x 9.5mm]
cut earlier, the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa spar web basswood wing spars on the plan, and then place the ❏ ❏ 10. Glue the remaining basswood spar in place
and one set of wing ribs. rib and spar web assembly onto the spar. in the bottom rib slots.

26
 ❏ ❏ 16. When you have the correct curvature, glue
❏ ❏ 11. Position W1 onto the spars. Locate the die-cut the leading edge to the front of the ribs.
1/8” dihedral gauge (DG). Use the gauge to set the ❏ ❏ 20. When the glue has cured, drill a 3/16"
angle of W1 when it is fit into the spars. When you are [4.8mm] hole through the grooved block and the
satisfied that everything fits well, glue W1 in place. maple block.

❏ ❏ 17. Glue the basswood servo bay rails into the

notches in W8 and W9 with 6-minute epoxy. These
should be cut from the 1/4" x 3/8" [6.4 x 9.5mm]
❏ ❏ 12. Glue W12 in position on the end of the basswood stock that was leftover from the wing spars.
wing spars.
Complete Steps 18 - 22 only if you are installing the
❏ ❏ 13. Now that all of the ribs have been glued in fixed gear. If you are installing retracts skip ahead to: ❏ ❏ 21. Glue the landing gear block assembly into
place, glue the bellcrank mounting plate in position Installing the retracts. the slots in the wing with 30-minute epoxy. Be sure to
with CA. get a good bond between the maple block and W4.
❏ ❏ 18. Locate the two 1/2" x 3/4" x 6-3/4" [12.7 x
❏ ❏ 14. Bevel the front of the ribs at a slight angle to 19.1 x 171mm] grooved basswood landing gear
achieve a good fit between the ribs and the tapered mounts and the 1/2" x 3/4"x 1" [12.7 x 19.1 x
leading edge. 25.4mm] maple fixed gear blocks.

❏ ❏ 15. Locate the tapered balsa leading edge and

position it over the plan. At the wing tip you will see the
leading edge has a pronounced curve. Cut four or five
V-notches on the back side of the leading edge to ❏ ❏ 22. Do not sheet the wing at this time. When it
help the balsa take on the curved shape. Wetting the ❏ ❏ 19. Glue the maple fixed gear block to the is time to do the final wing sheeting, cut the sheeting
balsa with water will also help to bend the wood. grooved landing gear block with 30-minute epoxy. to fit the gear as shown in the photograph.

27
 If you have installed the fixed gear, skip the
❏ ❏ R2. Cut the grooved landing gear block to 5-3/4"
following 6 steps.
[146mm] in length. Test fit this into the notches in the
wing. When you are satisfied with the fit, use 30-
Retract Installation (Main Gears) minute epoxy to glue the plywood rail and the landing
gear block into place. Be sure that when you glue the
We have designed this kit around the Robart landing gear block in place you glue it in with the
#TFP39 Nose Gear Retract and the #606 HD 85- groove towards the top of the wing.
degree main gear retract. If you have chosen to
install the retractable gear, you should already
have the nose gear installed. The following steps
show the installation method for the main gear.
❏ ❏ R5. Though this is not absolutely necessary,
we recommend that you create a wheel well in the
wing. This will help to support the wing sheeting
after the final hole has been cut in the sheeting of
the wing. Our wheel well was made from some
.030" plastic sheet. You can do this or use balsa, lite
ply or even some poster board material. Be sure to
support the wheel well with some leftover balsa.

❏ Before starting on any of the landing gear If you choose not to make a wheel well, be sure to
installation move the air cylinder to the other side ❏ ❏ R3. Cut the embossed lines on W3 to open add some additional balsa around the well so that
of the retract unit as shown in the photograph. the wheel cavity. Using your retract landing gear you have something to glue the sheeting to.
This is very easy and the full instructions are as a guide, cut away the portion of W5 that is
included with the Robart landing gear. Please needed to make clearance for the air cylinder. ❏ ❏ R6. Install all of the retract air lines through
refer to the instructions included with the retracts. Note: The plastic strut cover shown is an optional ribs W1 - W6.
You will also need to cut the 3/16" [4.8mm] wire to item. See the Retract items on page 3 for the
a length of 4-7/8" [124.2mm]. Cut the wire so that part number.
the coil is no longer a part of the wire. This length
is the proper length if you are using the
recommended 4"[102mm] tires.

P-39 Fact
The Airacobra was never outstanding in
combat and was shunned by the American and
British pilots. However, it was excellent for low-
level operations against ground targets and
❏ ❏ R4. When you are satisfied there is adequate used successfully by the Soviets who scored
clearance, mark the position for the landing gear an impressive number of air victories.
❏ ❏ R1. Cut the 1/4" x 5" x 16" [6.4 x 127 x 406mm] and drill holes for the mounting screws in the
plywood rail to a length of 5-3/4" [146mm] and test hardwood rails. Also, drill a hole in W6 to allow for
fit it into the aft notches in ribs W4, W5 and W6. the air line to pass through.

28
Sheet The Bottom Of The Wing

❏ ❏ 1. Remove the T-pins. Use a sanding bar to sand

the LE, TE spars and ribs so they are smooth and
even. Be careful not to change the shape of the ribs.

❏ ❏ 5. After the glue has dried, cut away the openings

for the landing gear and the aileron servo hatch. Start ❏ ❏ 1. Locate the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] aileron
by cutting the hatch opening under size and carefully servo hatch and fit it to the opening in the wing.
enlarge it using a fresh #11 blade and a straightedge
❏ ❏ 2. Glue four sheets of 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6 x 76 until the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] ply hatch cover fits. ❏ ❏ 2. Use six of the #2 X 3/8" [9.5mm] flat head
x 762mm] balsa together in the same manner as you Hint: As you zero-in on the final shape of the hatch sheet metal screws to mount the hatch to the servo
did for the horizontal stabilizer. This will create the opening, use the hatch cover itself as a template to rails. Place the hatch cover on the servo hatch rails
bottom wing skin. finalize the exact shape and size of the opening. making sure it is in the correct orientation as shown
on the plan. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the
❏ ❏ 3. Cut the skin to the shape of the wing, but cut ❏ ❏ 6. Use thin CA to adhere the sheeting at the punch marks in the hatch cover into the rails.
it approximately 1/4" [6.4mm] larger than the wing. aileron hatch opening and the wheel well.
This will provide a bit of excess when positioning the Enlarge the holes in the hatch cover only with a 3/32"
skin. Save the excess that was cut away for later use [2.4mm] drill bit. Countersink the holes for the #2 x 3/8"
in the sheeting process. [9.5mm] flat head screws with a countersink or Dremel
#178 bit. Test fit the hatch cover to the rails with the
screws. If necessary, sand the edges of the hatch cover
so they align with the edges of the hatch opening.
Note: If you find it difficult to countersink the holes in
the hatch cover for the flat head screws, you could
use regular #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] screws (not supplied)
and not countersink the holes.

❏ ❏ 7. Cut the trailing edge support on the

embossed line.
❏ ❏ 4. Glue the skin to the wing ribs and spar. Use
an aliphatic glue for this. Tape the leading and trailing
edges of the sheet to the leading and trailing edge of
the wing. Hold the skin in place on the ribs with a few
weighted bags. Installing the Aileron Servos
Note: DO NOT GLUE the skin to the area around the
aileron hatch cover. This will be cut away in the next This is a good time to get the aileron servos installed. ❏ ❏ 3. Locate two of the 5/16" x 3/4" x 7/8" [7.9 x
step. Gluing the skin to the spar around the hatch will Doing it now will make it easy to run the wires and 19.1 x 22.2mm] basswood aileron servo mounting
make it difficult to cleanly remove the hatch. get the hatches to fit. blocks and mount the servo to the blocks.

29
 ❏ 2. Locate four die-cut Wing Bolt Mounting
Plates. Glue two of them together with 5-minute
epoxy. Do the same for the remaining two plates.

❏ ❏ 4. Use some coarse sandpaper to roughen the

inside of the ply hatch and the end of the mounting
block. Glue the mount to the hatch with 30-minute ❏ 5. Test fit the wing spar web brace into the slot you
epoxy, centering the servo arm over the opening in cut into the ribs.
the door. Secure the blocks in position by screwing
the block to the hatch with one #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm]flat
head screw in each block

❏ 3. Using 5-minute epoxy, glue a wing bolt

mounting plate in position in the slot between W1
and W2. Glue the doubler W1D and W2D in position
on ribs W1 and W2 to support the mounting plate. Do
this for both wing panels.

❏ ❏ 5. Cut the aileron and flap hinge blocks to the

size shown on the plan and glue in place. Trim any
excess wing sheeting. Sand and shape the leading
edge and wing sheeting. ❏ 6. Test fit the dihedral brace into the slot and make
sure it fits well with the spar web brace.
That's it for the bottom of the left wing. Build the right
wing half, by repeating the same steps!

❏ 4. Cut a slot in W1 and W2 as shown in the sketch. ❏ 7. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the wing spar web
Joining the Wing Halves This slot is needed to allow clearance for the die-cut brace and the dihedral brace to one wing panel. Be
1/8" ply [3.2mm] wing spar web brace and the sure to use enough epoxy to assure a good bond of the
❏ 1. Locate the two die-cut Leading Edge Dowel die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] ply dihedral brace. Do the web brace, dihedral brace and the spars. When the
Braces and glue them together with 5-minute epoxy. same for the other wing panel. glue has fully cured we will glue the two halves together.

30
 ❏ ❏ 3. Locate a 1/4" x 3/4" x 24" [6.4 x 19.1 x Build the Flaps
610mm] balsa stick and mark a centerline on both
sides of it. Glue the aileron core on the centerline. Perform steps 1-20 only if you are building working
Use the same procedure that was used in making flaps. If you are not building working flaps go to
the elevator cores. step 21.

❏ 8. For this step it will be helpful to position something

under the wing so that you can give support to the two
wing halves while they are being joined together. Use
30-minute epoxy to permanently join the two wing
halves together. Glue the spar web brace and the
dihedral brace into the other wing panel. Use small ❏ 1. Cut two servo mounting rails from the leftover
clamps to hold the wings together, making sure you get ❏ ❏ 4. Use 3/32" x 3/8" x 24" [6.4 x 9.5 x 610mm] 1/4" x 3/8" [604 x 9.5mm] basswood sticks that were
a good joint between the wing spars and the two balsa sticks to make the ribs. Glue them onto both used for the wing spars. Glue them in position as
W1 ribs. sides of the ailerons at the location that you shown on the plan. Mount the flap servo to the rails.
previously marked.
❏ 9. Once the wing is clamped together, epoxy the ❏ 2. Install the threaded ball onto the servo arm.
die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] ply LE dowel brace and the aft ❏ ❏ 5. Sand the ribs to the shape shown on the plan. After installing the ball, place the dual-end ball link
dowel brace into position. Set the wing assembly connector onto the ball.
aside to dry.

Install the Ailerons

❏ ❏ 1. Locate one of the two die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm]

balsa aileron cores. Pin it over the plan.

❏ ❏ 6. Shape the aileron leading edge to a V-shape

as shown on the plan. Use the centerline that you
drew as a guide when shaping.

❏ 3. Use one 2-56 x 6" [152mm] threaded rod, one 2-

❏ ❏ 7. Cut the hinge slots in the aileron and the wing 56 x 12" [305mm] threaded rod, two clevises and two
as indicated on the plan. Use the same slotting solder-on threaded couplers to make the flap
❏ ❏ 2. Mark the location where the ribs will be glued to method used for the elevators and rudder. pushrods. Make sure the servo is in position with the
the aileron core by connecting the marks on the plan. dual-end ball link connector in place so you can use it
Draw these lines on both sides of the aileron core. ❏ 8. Do the same for the other aileron. to determine the proper length for the pushrods.
31
Make the right flap first, followed by the left flap. of 1/16" [1.6mm] sheeting that was left over from the ❏ ❏ 12.Test fit the flap to the trailing edge of the
trimmed wing sheeting. Use the plan to cut the sheet wing. Make sure when the flap is in the up position
to the correct shape. Glue the three pieces together that it is resting on the wing ribs and that the flap ribs
as shown in the sketch with the ply facing down. fit the wing trailing edge. Check to make sure that the
flap has approximately 2" [51mm] of down travel.
The cross section view of the flap on the plan shows
❏ ❏ 7. Locate flap ribs FR2-FR7 and a 1/4" x 3/8" x how to shape the flap LE.
24" [6.4 x 9.5 x 610mm] balsa stick.
❏ ❏ 13. Position the flap and mark the hinge locations
on the trailing edge of the wing. Drill 3/32" [2.4mm]
holes for the hinges in wing trailing edge.

❏ ❏ 4. Refer to the sketch above. Use medium or

thick CA to glue a 1/32" x 3/4"x 14-1/2" [0.8 x 19.1
x 369mm] plywood strip on top of a piece of 1/16"
[1.6mm] balsa sheet. Use a piece of leftover wing
sheeting for this. Trim the balsa to be the same size
as the plywood.

❏ ❏ 5. Sand 1/32" [0.8] from the balsa so that the total ❏ ❏ 8. Pin the balsa flap skin over the flap plan. Be
thickness of the laminated piece is 1/16"[1.6mm]. This sure the plywood on the trailing edge is facing down ❏ ❏ 14. Test fit formers W2A and W7A in the
laminated piece will become the flap trailing edge. on the plan. Mark the location for the flap ribs on the position shown on the plan. Trim the ends of the flap
Sand a taper on the balsa/plywood trailing edge. skin, using the tick marks on the flap plan. to get a good fit of the flap between W2A and W7A.
When you are satisfied with the fit, glue W7A and
W2A into position on the wing TE.
❏ ❏ 9. Cut the 1/4" x 3/8" x 24" [6.4 x 9.5 x 610mm]
balsa stick to the length of the leading edge of the
flap skin shown on the plan. Glue the balsa stick and
flap ribs FR2- FR7 to the flap skin and the balsa
leading edge.

❏ ❏ 10. Cut the flap hinge blocks from 1/4" x 1/2" x

24" [6.4 x 12.7 x 610mm] balsa and glue them into
position as shown on the plan.

❏ ❏ 6. Make a skin for the bottom of the flap. The flap ❏ ❏ 11. Drill 3/32" [2.4mm] holes in the hinge blocks ❏ ❏ 15.Locate die-cut part FR3D. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm]
skin will consist of the laminated flap TE, a new 1/16" for the pivot point hinges. Do not glue the hinges in hole at the punch mark. Glue FR3D to FR3. Drill a 3/32"
x 3" x 30" [1.6 x 76 x 762mm] balsa sheet and a piece place yet. [2.4mm] hole through FR3 at the hole in FR3D.

32
❏ ❏ 16. Locate the 2-56 ball, ball link socket and sheeting to make the skin for the flap area. Edge
2-56 nut. Attach the ball through FR3D and FR3 and glue the two skins together and cut them to fit onto
retain it with the nut. After tightening the nut put a small the wing using the flap plan as a guide.
drop of CA on the threads to prevent it from loosening.

❏ ❏ 22. When satisfied with the fit, glue the skin in

place to the wing.

P-39 Fact
Approximately 9,560 Airacobras were
produced, about half of which were sent to
Russia under the Lend-Lease program.
❏ ❏ 2. Locate balsa parts C1, C6, C11 and six wing
❏ ❏ 17. Cut a small piece of leftover 3/8" [9.5mm] jig braces. Assemble three wing jigs as shown in
triangle stock and glue it to FR3 and the flap skin. the photographs.

❏ ❏ 18. Cut a slot through the trailing edge of the Sheet the top of the Wing ❏ ❏ 3. Support the wing with the three wing jigs.
wing, just large enough for the 2-56 pushrod. See the Place C1 at the wing root, C11 at the wingtip and C6
photo at step 16. centered in the middle of the wing. Glue the sheeting
in place on the wing using the same method as the
❏ ❏ 19. Cut one of the 2-56 x 12" [305mm] pushrods bottom of the wing. Trim the sheeting at the LE, tip
to fit from the bellcrank to the ball link. Make a and TE after it has dried.
Z-bend in the wire and attach it to the bellcrank as
shown on the plan.

❏ 20. Repeat steps 4-19 for the left flap.

Sheeting the flap area when flaps are ❏ ❏ 1. Glue four of the 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6 x 76 x
not used. 762mm] balsa sheets together in the same way as
you glued the other sheeting. After the glue has
Perform steps 21 and 22 only if there will not be dried, cut the sheeting to the outline of the wing. Be
working flaps. sure to save the portion of the sheet that you cut
away at the leading edge. This will be used in step 5. ❏ ❏ 4. Test fit the aileron. Sand the aileron to fit
❏ ❏ 21. Use a new 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6 x 76 x Note: The sheeting will not cover the entire top of the between the ribs with 1/16" [1.6mm] clearance at
762mm] balsa sheet and a piece of 1/16" [1.6mm] wing. The flap area will not be sheeted in each end of the aileron. Sand the ailerons to match
sheeting that was left over from trimming the wing this step. the airfoil of the wing.

33
 Perform step 11 only if you are
not building working flaps.

❏ ❏ 11. Glue the final portion of the wing skin into

position on the ribs and to the bottom wing skin at the
wing TE.

❏ 12. Do the same for the other side of the wing.

❏ ❏ 8. Lay the plywood strip on the trailing edge of

the wing sheeting and cut a 3/4" [19.1mm] strip of the
❏ ❏ 5. Test fit the flaps into position. Sand as needed balsa skin away as shown in the photograph. Glue
to fit the flaps between the ribs with 1/16" [1.6mm] the balsa strip to the 1/32"x 3/4"x 14-1/2 [0.8 x 19.1
clearance at each end. x 369mm] ply. Sand the balsa side of this assembly
so that the total thickness of the two pieces is
1/16"[1.6mm], the same thickness as the rest of the
wing skin. Edge glue the balsa and ply strip back into
the wing skin with the ply strip on the top.
.

❏ ❏ 9. Sand a taper on the balsa / plywood trailing ❏ ❏ 13. Insert a leftover piece of 1/8” balsa between
edge the same way as was done with the bottom of the wing mounting block and the wing skin. Use a
the flap. Refer to the sketch in step 5 of "Building 1/8" [3.2mm] drill to drill a hole through the wing
the Flap". mounting block and through the skin sheeting on the
top of the wing. This will provide a pilot hole to help
locate where to drill once the center gets sheeted.
Perform step 10 only if you are
building working flaps.

❏ ❏ 6. Make a skin to cover the flap area from

another of the 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6 x 76 x 762mm]
balsa sheets and the portion of the skin that was cut
away when you sheeted the top of the wing in step
1. Glue the two sheets together.

❏ ❏ 7. Cut a 1/32" x 3/4" x 14-1/2" [0.8 x 19.1 x ❏ ❏ 14. Use pieces of the remaining 1/16" [1.6mm]
369mm] plywood strip like your did for the bottom of ❏ ❏ 10. Glue the final portion of the wing skin into sheeting to sheet the remaining center section of the
the flap. position on the ribs. bottom of the wing.

34
 ❏ 4. From the front of the fuselage, drill two 1/4"
holes through the existing holes in F3 and F3A and
into the ply LE dowel brace of the wing. Make sure
❏ ❏ 15. Using the 1/8" [3.2mm] pilot hole as a guide, ❏ 2. Wing alignment is important to good flight that you drill the hole through the ply LE dowel brace
drill through the pilot holes from the top of the wing characteristics so take your time to do it correctly. and the aft dowel brace. A long drill bit will be helpful
through the bottom center section sheeting. This will With the wing in the saddle, visually check the in doing this step, but if you have only a standard bit,
give you a proper alignment for the wing bolts. Once alignment of the wing in relation to the horizontal drill through the LE dowel brace, then remove the
the hole has been drilled, enlarge the diameter of the stab. If needed, sand a small amount of the wing wing and drill the hole through the aft dowel brace.
hole in the bottom sheeting to allow the head of the saddle until the wing is parallel to the horizontal stab. With the wing off of the fuselage the standard bit will
1/4 - 20 nylon wing bolt to pass through the skin reach all the way through.
and tighten down onto the wing bolt mounting plate.
Glue a piece of the cardboard wing bolt tube in the ❏ 5. Glue each of the 1/4" x 3" [6.4x 76mm] wood
hole between the sheeting. dowels in place in the holes you drilled. The dowels
should extend out of the dowel brace 3/8" [9.5mm] .
Round the end slightly to help the dowel easily slide
into the fuselage. A small amount of epoxy spread on
the dowels should be more than adequate to retain
the dowels.

A A

❏ ❏ 16. Glue the shaped balsa wing tips to the end

of the wing. Shape to match the airfoil of the wing.
Use the plan as a guide for the final shape.

❏ 3. Measure the distance from the right wing tip to

the center of the fuselage at the tail. Do the same for ❏ 6. When the glue has cured on the dowels, place
Fit the wing to the fuselage the left side of the fuselage. Make adjustments to the the wing in position in the saddle. Place the 1/4"x
wing position until the distance from the fuselage to 3/4" x 2" [6.4 x 19 x 51mm] wing bolt plates in
❏ 1. Test fit the wing onto the wing saddle. Be sure each wing tip is the same. When you are satisfied, position under the holes in the wing. Mark these
that the center of the LE is at the center of F3A. mark the exact wing location on the fuselage. locations on the side of the saddles.

35
 CA into the threads to harden them. Allow the CA to
cure fully. Run the tap through the threads again to Nose Gear Steering
clean up the threads. Drill out the holes in the Wing Pull-Pull System installation.
Bolt Plate only with a 17/64" [6.7mm] bit.
This step is only if you have retracts installed.

We will use the Sullivan Pull-Pull System (SULQ3121)

P-39 Fact
Production models of the P-39 started arriving
at Air Corps squadrons in January 1941; six
months later the first Airacobras reached
England. The British had planned to order 675
of the planes, but after disappointing combat
❏ 7. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the blocks in place on experience, the order was canceled.
the saddles. Clean any excess epoxy from the block.
Glue some leftover 3/8” tri balsa to the block and wing
saddle to reinforce the joint.

The parts you have just glued together are going to FINISH THE LOWER FUSELAGE
take some time to cure. This would be a good time to
cut out and assemble the plastic parts that are on
page 38 of the manual.

❏ 8. After everything has cured, put the wing back in

position on the saddle and double check to make
❏ R1. Attach the cable to the servo arm and the
sure the wing is properly positioned. When you are
nose steering arm following the instructions
satisfied with the fit, drill a #10 (or 13/64") [5.2mm]
included in the Pull-Pull kit.
hole through the holes in the wing and through the
mounting blocks you just glued into position. The #10
(or 13/64") [5.2mm] drill is the proper diameter for
tapping the mounting block.
❏ 1. Glue the die-cut balsa wing saddle doubler onto
each side of the fuselage. Some sanding of the
doubler is going to be required in order to match the
shape of the wing saddle. Make sure that you test fit
the wing to the fuselage before you glue the saddle
doubler in place. The saddle doubler should uniformly
contact the wing along the entire chord length.

❏ 2. Glue the remaining 3/16" [4.8mm] stringers to

the rear of the fuselage the same way you did with
the top half. The stringer at the middle of the ❏ R2. Retract the nose gear with the cable in place
fuselage side runs the full length of the fuse. Splice and make sure there is clearance for the cables as
❏ 9. Remove the wing and tap the holes in the two stringers together the same way you did the top they retract into the nose of the model. Make
mounting block with a 1/4 - 20 tap. Wick some thin stringers. Make one for each side. adjustments to the landing gear plate as needed.

36
 ❏ 6. Cut out the two plastic wing fillets. Sand the
inside edges of the fillets to improve the glue bond.

❏ 9. Once the fairing is glued in place, trim away the

excess 1/32" [0.8mm] plywood sheeting. Blend the
❏ 3. Glue former F1F into position on the stringers fairing to the fuse with a lightweight filler.
and glue the remaining center stringer in position.
This will provide something to which the sheeting
can be glued.

❏ 7. Cut the 1/32" x 5" x 17" [0.8 x 127 x 432mm] ply

into two pieces as shown in the sketch. Use the
outline on the top view of the fuse plan as a guide.
Test fit them to the wing saddle and the wing saddle ❏ 10. Using leftover balsa and filler, make a fairing
doubler. Mark the location of the 1/4-20 bolt holes on the underside of the fuselage where the saddle
and drill 17/64" [6.7mm] holes in the ply wood and fuselage come together. Do the same to create
sheeting. When everything is aligned, glue the a nice blend where the leading edge of the wing and
sheeting in place to the wing saddle and the wing the fuselage come together. Use the 1/2” x 1-1/4” x
❏ 4. Sheet the back half of the fuselage from the tail saddle doubler. 6” [12.7 x 31.7 x 152] balsa block to fair the wing LE
to the wing saddle using 3/32" x 3" x 30" [2.4 x 76 x to the fuselage.
762mm] balsa sheet. ❏ 8. Bolt the wing onto the fuselage. Carefully fit the
plastic fairings to the fuselage side and the 1/32" ❏ 11. Glue the 1/16” balsa fin/fuselage fillet in place as
❏ 5. Sheet the rest of the fuselage from the wing [0.8mm] ply. The sharply curved tip of the fairing shown on the plan.
saddle forward to the nose using 3/32" x 3" x 30" [2.4 where it meets the fuselage and the leading edge of
x 76 x 762mm] balsa sheet. Some wetting of the the wing should be cut away to allow clearance for ❏ 12. Cut the plastic air scoop and glue the two halves
wood will probably be necessary to make the balsa the wing to be removed. Once you are satisfied with together. After they have been glued together cut out
conform to the stringers at the nose. Reminder! Now the fit, glue the fairing to the fuselage and the ply. the front of the scoop to form the air intake. See photo
is a good time to wet the front of the fuselage as Hint: Thin CA with a micro tip works well to glue the in step 9. Glue the scoop in place after it has been
instructed on page 25 step 50. fairing in place with minimal excess glue. painted and the fuselage has been covered.

37
 the top of the fuselage. Sand that area so that when
the canopy is attached it will be flush with the fuselage.

❏ 2. Cut the plastic cowl to fit the right side of the

fuselage. Locate the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa cowl
ring. The cowl ring and F1CM will be used to mount
the cowl to the fuselage.
❏ 13. Cut out the two plastic cannon pods. We made ❏ 2. Glue former F5CM at the back of the cockpit. This
the cannons from 3" x 1/4" [76 x 6.4mm] brass tube, will give you a surface to glue the canopy to. Before
7/32"x 1/2" [5.6 x 12.7mm] brass tube and a #2 painting the canopy read the painting recommendations
washer (cannon parts are not included in the kit). in the Finishing section of this manual.
Glue the 7/32" [5.6mm] tube into the 1/4" [6.4mm]
tube. Glue the #2 washer to the end of the 7/32"
[5.6mm] tube to form the gun barrel. Sharpen the
end of an additional 1/4" [6.4mm] brass tube and use
it to cut a hole in the cannon pod. Glue the cannon
into the center of the pod.

❏ 14. Glue on the air scoop, exhaust stacks and gun

pods after they have been painted and the model
has been covered.

Canopy Installation ❏ 3. Position the cowl ring on the back side of part
NR (the nose ring). Drill two 1/16" [1.6mm] holes
❏ 3. When you finish the covering and the cockpit through NR and the cowl ring. Re-drill the 1/16" hole
installation (Follow the instructions included with the in NR to 3/32". This will provide clearance when
cockpit kit), paint the canopy and glue it in place on mounting the cowl. Be sure to only drill the
the fuselage. Be sure to follow painting clearance hole in NR, not the cowl ring. Counter sink
recommendations on page 41 of this manual. the holes in NR. Screw the nose ring to NR with the
#2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] wood screws.

Cowling Installation
❏ 4. Position F1CM on the firewall. Drill two 1/16"
❏ 1. Trim the canopy to fit onto the stringer at the top ❏ 1. Locate the two die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] ply F1CM [1.6mm] holes through F1CM and the firewall. Re-drill
of the cockpit deck. Mark where the canopy rests on parts. Glue the two parts together. the 1/16" [1.6mm] hole in F1CM to 3/32" [2.4mm]. This

38
will provide clearance when mounting the cowl. Be Mount the Receiver and Battery
sure to only drill the clearance hole in F1CM, not the
firewall. Apply some thin CA to the holes in the balsa We found there was more than adequate room to
cowl ring and F1CM to harden them. mount the receiver and battery in foam between the
fuselage side and the wing saddle structure. We
would recommend you do the same, holding the
receiver and battery in place with #64 rubber bands.

P-39 Fact
The Bell engineers wanted to mount the
cannon so it would fire directly through the
propellor shaft. This meant the engine would
have to be located deep in the fuselage,
behind the pilot. This, in turn dictated that the
❏ 7. Remove the engine and re-install the cowl. Put machine would have a tricycle gear--the first
the pattern back in position and trace the shape to be such ever used on a production fighter.
cut away onto the cowl.

❏ 5. When the plastic cowl fits well to the fuse, glue the
cowl to F1CM and the cowl ring. Be careful not to glue FINISHING
the cowl to the firewall or NR. Hint: slide some wax
paper or part of a plan protector between the F1CM
Prepare the model for covering
and the firewall and between NR and the nose ring. ❏ 1. At this stage, there shouldn't be much left to do.
We've installed the radio system along the way, all the
hinge slots are cut and the control surfaces are all
temporarily connected, the engine is mounted and the
retracts (if you are installing them) have been fitted. If
there are any areas left that you haven't fuelproofed,
now is the time to do it. We recommend removing the
engine, landing gear and any other systems that may
get in the way of painting or fuelproofing. Make sure
you fuelproof the inside of the flaps and the flap area
in the wing, the wheel wells, the fuel tank
compartment, the wing saddle and the front of the
❏ 8. Cut out the area you masked on the plastic wing, etc. For fuelproofing, we recommend any kind of
cowl. You will probably need to make some small fuelproof model airplane paint but, of course, we
adjustments to the cut-out area. Remove small areas prefer Top Flite LustreKote.® See the Hot Tip that
at a time to get a good fit. follows on how to use LustreKote to fuelproof these
Hint: Do not cut the plastic cowl all the way through important areas.
❏ 6. Use poster board to make a pattern of the below the muffler. Make the cutout to fit the engine Note: You should always fuelproof the model before
engine cut-out. Place masking tape under the and muffler exactly. Mount the cowl over the engine you cover it. Otherwise, some types of paint may
pattern and trace the pattern. This will help you put it and the install the muffler. Access to the muffler soak through the wood and cause blemishes that
in place when the cowling is reinstalled. mounting screws is in the cut-out above the engine. may show through the covering.
39
 ❏ 3. With the wing level, carefully lift the model by the 4. Some modelers have three irons going at once:
nose and the aft end of the fuselage under the stab one on high heat without a Hot Sock for stretching
(this may require two people). Do this several times. the covering around curves like wingtips; one on
medium heat with a Hot Sock for bonding the
❏ 4. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, covering to large sheeted areas like the wing and
If you plan to cover your model with Top Flite that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by gluing stab; and a Trim Iron for small areas.
MonoKote film and you will be using Top Flite weight inside the other wing tip. Do this by carving a
LustreKote spray paint for parts that require painting cavity in the bottom of the balsa wing tip and filling it
and/or fuelproofing, you may find it easier to apply with the amount of weight required to balance the 5. When covering large sheeted surfaces such as
LustreKote to some of those areas with a paint brush model laterally. Glue the weight in place with epoxy the wing, bond the covering in the middle and work
instead of spraying it from the can. To apply and cover the rest of the cavity with balsa filler. An outward, pushing out air as you proceed. Do not
LustreKote with a brush, hold a tube (such as a airplane that has been laterally balanced will track move the iron in a circular motion, but move it span-
drinking straw) to the spray nozzle, with the other end better in most maneuvers. wise with the grain of the wood.
of the tube emptying into a container. Depress the
spray nozzle until you have enough paint in your
container to do the job. Spraying LustreKote into a
tube will keep most of it from becoming airborne. Allow 6. Areas that require an extraordinary amount of
the paint to stabilize for about ten minutes before you shrinking (such as the bottom of the fuse at the front)
brush it on. This is a handy method for painting visible can be successfully shrunk tight with a heat gun. Use
areas on the outside of the model that require Cover your model with MonoKote ®
a glove to avoid burning you fingers.
fuelproofing and must match your MonoKote finish
(such as the wheel wells and the insides of the flaps). It is assumed that you are an intermediate to
To simulate the Zinc Chromate used on the inside of advanced modeler, so we won't go into many details 7. When covering smaller parts with square edges
aluminum airplanes, mix yellow and blue.
on covering techniques, but here are some tips you such as the elevators and ailerons, cover the ends
should consider: first with separate pieces of covering. Then, all you
❏ 2. Inspect all surfaces for uneven glue joints and have to do is wrap the covering around the top and
seams that require filler. Apply filler where needed. 1. Most importantly, NEVER CUT THE COVERING bottom and iron it down.
Many small dents or scratches in balsa can be DIRECTLY ON THE SHEETING. The P-39 depends
repaired by applying a few drops of water or upon the wood sheeting for some of its strength.
moistening the area with a wet tissue. This will swell Modelers who cut through the covering tend to cut 8. One method we like to use is to "pre-cut" the
the wood so you can sand it when it dries. into the sheeting and this will weaken the structure. covering when possible to accurately fit the part,
leaving "handles" in curved areas like the dorsal fin
❏ 3. Final sand your entire model with progressively 2. We recommend priming the plastic wing fillets, and the tip of the fin. Cover the main surface of the
finer grits of sandpaper, finishing with 320 or 400-grit airscoop and exhaust stacks before covering the part and the straight lines of the leading and trailing
sandpaper. fuse, then apply color after you cover the fuse. This edges first. Hold onto the handles as you heat the
way you can "build up" the paint to nearly the same covering and wrap it around. Cut the handles off
❏ 4. Use a large brush, compressed air or a Top Flite level as the covering for a nearly invisible transition when you're done. You can use this method for the
Tack Cloth to remove dust from the model. between the two. wing and stab too.

3. Use a Top Flite® Hot Sock™ for your Top Flite

Balance the airplane laterally covering iron to minimize dents in the wood from 9. We recommend drilling or cutting small vent holes
your covering iron. You'll probably go through three through the ribs in the ailerons, rudder and the
❏ 1. Before balancing the airplane make sure you have or four socks by the time you finish covering your P- elevators with holes on the ends of those parts to
the engine and all of the radio equipment installed. 39. The Top Flite MonoKote Trim Seal Tool is highly allow expanding hot air to escape while you cover.
recommended for this model due to the curved lines Otherwise, air sealed inside the control surfaces will
❏ 2. Mount your wing. and fillets in the fairings and fin area. expand and never allow the covering to fully shrink.

40
Covering sequence slightly. Leave the paint in the open container, stirring shaped cutouts from poster board. Hold the cutouts
every 15 minutes until no more foam appears on the away from the model approximately 1" to 2" and
Refer to the painting section that follows before you surface of the paint and the paint has warmed to spray the olive drab over the tan. If you own an
cover the fuse. room temperature. This allows the propellant and airbrush you can spray olive drab LustreKote
some of the thinner to evaporate out of the paint. (TOPR7210) into a small bottle and then use the
Fuselage Depending on the amount of paint in the jar, this paint in your airbrush. The airbrush allows you much
1. Stab bottoms, then stab tops process may take about 1 hour. greater control and you should be able to spray the
2. Fin camouflage markings freehand without the need for
3. Aft fuse bottom After allowing the propellant to boil off, use an the poster board templates. Panel lines were applied
4. Forward fuse bottom (two pieces) airbrush to spray paint the canopy. If the paint is too using the Top Flite Panel Line Pen (TOPQ2510)
5. One fuse side, then the other (with the two halves thick to spray properly, it can be thinned with a small following the instructions on page 42 in this manual.
joining in the middle of the top) amount of lacquer thinner. The paint can also be
6. Bottom, then top of elevators brushed on, but brushing will not produce the high When we had finished the panel lines and the
7. Rudder quality finish of spraying. application of all of the decals, the entire plane was
given a coat of LustreKote Flat Clear (TOPR7199).
Wing Earlier in the manual we recommended you prime When applying the clear coat start with a very light
1. Bottom, one side the wing fillet, air scoop, gun pods and exhaust mist for the first few applications. Putting it on too wet
2. Bottom, other side stacks before you cover the fuselage and add the will cause the panel lines to bleed. Multiple light
3. Top, one side color paint after you cover the model. To do it this applications is the best way to achieve a good finish.
4. Top, other side way, first roughen the plastic parts attached to the
5. Bottom, then top of ailerons fuse with 320-grit sandpaper, then spray on a coat of For masking fine lines, use Top Flite Fine Line
6. Bottom of flaps primer. After the primer dries, sand with 400-grit. Wet Masking Tape (TOPR8012) and use Kyosho®
sanding works best because it keeps your Masking Cover Sheet (KYOR1040) for masking
sandpaper from becoming clogged, but of course large areas. Lightly use a Top Flite Tack Cloth
you want to avoid getting the rest of the balsa fuse (TOPR2185) to remove dust just before you paint.
Painting wet. You may wet sand if you are careful by shaking
most of the water off your sandpaper after you wet it.
We used Top Flite LustreKote for everything that Keep a cloth handy to wipe water from the balsa.
needed to be painted or fuelproofed, except for the After you are done wet sanding, allow the fuse to dry
clear butyrate canopy. Do not paint the clear for a while, then dry sand it once more to smooth
canopy with LustreKote directly from the can, it surrounding balsa that may have been wetted. Wet
can cause the plastic to curl. We recommend sand and prime the engine cowl too. Now the fuse is Join the control surfaces
Formula-U for painting the clear canopy or the ready for covering.
following procedure for LustreKote. LustreKote ❏ 1. Start with the stab and elevators. Remove a
spray paint will attack and cause clear butyrate To achieve the finish on the box we painted the small strip of covering from the hinge slots.
plastic to curl. We have, however, developed a MonoKote with Top Flite LustreKote. If you wish to
method you can use for successfully painting your copy the paint scheme, cover the whole model with
canopy with LustreKote: #211 Dove Grey MonoKote. Lightly sand the ❏ 2. Fit the hinges in the stab or elevators only
MonoKote with 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper. This (without glue). Fill the elevator joiner wire holes in the
The recommended procedure requires that the paint will help the paint adhere to the covering. Once the elevators with epoxy.
be sprayed into a jar or plastic mixing cup. This is model is sanded, paint the airplane with Tan
best done by spraying the paint through a small LustreKote (TOPR7216). Allow the tan to mist onto
brass tube or straw into the jar. For best results spray the grey bottom. This gives the feathered look that ❏ 3. Join the elevators to the stab with the hinges,
no more than 1 oz. of paint into the jar at a time. As was common on camouflaged warbirds. After the tan simultaneously installing the elevator joiner wire in
the propellant "boils off" it will cause the paint to foam has dried, paint the olive drab by making various the elevators. If the hinges don't remain centered as

41
you join the elevators to the stab, remove the stab FINISHING TOUCHES cardboard for special areas like the exit door or other
and insert a pin in the center of the hinges to keep hatches. Some cleaners will remove the ink lines, so
them centered. Use a tissue dampened with alcohol Decals test your cleaner on the ink before spraying the
to remove excess epoxy that comes out of the cleaner on your model. The inked-on panel lines stay
elevators. Make sure there is approximately a 1/64" 1. Study the photos on the box to decide where to well but have to be "freshened up" from time to time
[0.4mm] gap between the elevators and the stab so place the decals. due to spilled fuel or exhaust residue.
you do not glue them together.
2. Thoroughly clean your airplane before you apply The second method for applying panel lines is to use
the decals. a Top Flite Smart Stripe™ to cut narrow strips of
MonoKote film. Iron the panel lines in position. Black
❏ 4. Cut a paper towel into approximately 2" [51mm] 3. Trim the decals as close as practical and carefully or Charcoal MonoKote film is recommended.
squares. Add six drops of thin CA to the center of the apply them to your model. You can float the decals
hinges on both the top and bottom. The tunnels you into position by first applying soapy water to the
drilled will wick the CA into the entire hinge surface. model's surface (just a teaspoon of dish detergent to
Use the paper towel squares to absorb excess CA a quart of water), then squeegeeing out the water
from the hinge gap before it cures. and soap with a piece of soft balsa or a credit card
wrapped with a tissue. Blot the surface dry and let GET YOUR MODEL READY TO FLY
the decal adhesive cure for at least 12 hours before
❏ 5. Use the same hinging method to join the rudder running the engines. Balance your model
to the fin and the ailerons to the wing.
NOTE: This section is VERY important and must
NOT be omitted! A model that is not properly
❏ 6. If you've built working flaps, use a toothpick to balanced will be unstable and possibly unflyable.
apply a small amount of petroleum jelly to the pivot
points of the hinges to keep epoxy out. Panel lines ❏ 1. Accurately mark the balance point on the top of
the wing on both sides of the fuselage. The balance
No scale model is complete without panel lines. point is shown on the plan (CG) and is located 4-3/16"
❏ 7. Use a piece of wire or a toothpick to thoroughly Panel lines really finish the job and set your model [106mm] back from the leading edge of the center
coat the holes for the flap hinges in the wing and the apart from others (besides, they tend to distract the section of the wing as shown in the sketch and on the
flap with the epoxy. Coat one side of the flap hinges with eye from any building imperfections and uneven plan. This is the balance point at which your model
epoxy and insert them into the wing. Coat the other side surfaces–not that your model has any!). Study the should be balanced for your first flights. Later, you
of the hinges with epoxy and join the flaps to the wing. photos and documentation you have gathered and may experiment by shifting the balance up to 3/8"
Wipe away excess epoxy before it cures. decide which panel lines to add. There are two [10mm] forward or back to change the flying
methods for adding panel lines. The first method is to characteristics. If you move the balance point forward
use a Top Flite Panel Line Pen (TOPQ2510) with a it may improve the smoothness and tracking, but your
❏ 8. Tape the flaps in place to hold the flaps aligned flexible straightedge. We used a piece of thin plastic P-39 may then require more speed for takeoff and
with the TE spar until the epoxy has fully cured. so we could curve it around the fuselage. Apply a become more difficult to slow for landing. If you move
few strips of masking tape to the back of your the balance aft it may make your P-39 more agile with
straightedge about 1/8" [3.2mm] from the edge to a lighter feel and allow you to slow the model more for
❏ 9. Reinstall all the pushrods and mount the control raise it off the surface so the ink won't bleed landing. In any case, please start at the location we
horns to the ailerons and flaps. Reinstall any underneath. Place the straightedge directly on your recommend and do not at any time balance your
hardware and other components you may not model and use it as a guide to mark your panel lines. model outside the recommended range.
already have in place such as the engine and Use the Top Flite Scale Template (TOPR2187) for
muffler, retract, fuel tank, servos, on/off switch, fuel rivets, hatches, fuel caps and other details. You can ❏ 2. All components should be in the model and it
filler valve, air filler valve, etc. make your own templates from thin plastic or should be ready to fly but with an empty fuel tank.
42
 ❏ 3. Make sure the control surfaces move in the
Recommended Control Surface Throws
proper direction as illustrated in the following sketch.
Low Rate High Rate
Aileron 3/8" up 5/8" up
4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP 3/8" down 5/8" down
(STANDARD MODE 2) [9.5mm] [15.9mm]

Elevator 5/16" up, 1/2" up

5/16" down 1/2" down
ELEVATOR MOVES UP [7.9mm] [12.7mm]
4-CHANNEL
TRANSMITTER

Rudder 1" left, 1-1/2" left

1" right 1-1/2 down
[25.4mm] [38mm]
❏ 3. With the wing attached to the fuselage, the RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP
landing gear extended (if you have retracts) and an
LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN Flaps 2" down [51mm]
empty fuel tank, lift the model at the balance point or 4-CHANNEL
TRANSMITTER

place it on your C.G. Machine™ (shown in the sketch).

If the tail drops, the model is tail heavy and you must
relocate your battery pack or other components
forward or add weight to the nose. If the nose drops, PREFLIGHT
it is nose heavy and you must relocate your battery RUDDER MOVES RIGHT
pack or other components aft or add weight to the tail. 4-CHANNEL
TRANSMITTER Identify your model
In order to save weight, relocate your battery pack Regardless if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club
and/or receiver or other components before you add site or if you fly somewhere on your own, you should
additional weight to arrive at the correct C.G. You always have your name, address, telephone number
may install nose or tail weight by gluing lead weights CARBURETOR WIDE OPEN and AMA number on or inside your model. It is
inside the fuselage where necessary. 4-CHANNEL
required at all AMA R/C club flying sites and AMA
TRANSMITTER

sanctioned flying events.

Note: The amount of weight required will depend on
the engine, density of the wood provided and how Charge the batteries
heavily or lightly the tail was built. ❏ 4. Adjust your pushrod hookups and set up your Follow the battery charging procedures in the radio
radio to provide the control surface movements as instruction manual. Always charge your transmitter and
follows. Use a ruler or a Great Planes Accu Throw™ receiver batteries the night before you go flying and at
Control Surface Deflection Meter (GPMR2405) to other times as recommended by the radio manufacturer.
measure the throws.
Final hookups and checks Balance the propellers
The balance point and control surface throws listed Carefully balance your propellers before you fly. An
❏ 1. Take the servo arms off the servos, turn on the in this manual are the ones at which the P-39 flies unbalanced prop is the single most significant cause
transmitter and center all the trims. Reinstall all the best. Set up your aircraft to those specifications. If, of vibration that can damage your model. Not only
servo arms and secure them with the screws. after a few flights, you would like to adjust the throws will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen,
or C.G. to suit your tastes, that is fine. Too much possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may
❏ 2. Double-check all the servos and make sure the control surface throw can make your model difficult also damage your radio receiver and battery.
servo arms are secure and all the clevises have a to control or force it into a stall, so remember...More Vibration can also cause the fuel to foam, which will,
silicone retainer. is not better. in turn, cause the engine to run hot or quit.

43
We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Get help from an experienced pilot when you are AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)
Balancer (TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a learning to operate engines.
Great Planes Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) Read and abide by the following Academy of Model
in our flight box. Use safety glasses when you operate model engines. Aeronautics Official Safety Code:

Ground check your model Do not run the engine near loose gravel or sand; the
If you are not thoroughly familiar with the operation propeller may throw loose material in your face or eyes. GENERAL
of R/C models, ask an experienced modeler to 1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned
inspect your radio installation and control surface When you start and run the engine, keep your face events, air shows, or model flying demonstrations
set-up. Follow the engine manufacturer's instructions and body as well as all spectators away from the until it has been proven to be airworthy by having
to break-in your engine. After you run the engine on plane of rotation of the propeller. been previously successfully flight tested.
your model, inspect your model closely to make sure
all screws remain tight and your pushrods and Always be aware and very conscious of hand 2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than
connectors are secure. movements and be deliberate in your reach for the approximately 400 feet [120m] within 3 miles [4.8km]
needle valve, glow plug clip, or other items near a of an airport without notifying the airport operator. I
Range check your radio spinning propeller. will give right of way to and avoid flying in the
Ground check the range of your radio before the first proximity of full scale aircraft. Where necessary an
flight of the day. With the transmitter antenna Keep loose clothing, shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long observer shall be used to supervise flying to avoid
collapsed and the receiver and transmitter on, you hair or loose objects away from the prop. Be having models fly in the proximity of full scale aircraft.
should be able to walk at least 100 feet away from conscious of pencils, screw drivers or other objects
the model and still have control. Have an assistant that may fall out of your shirt or jacket pockets. 3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules
stand by your model and, while you work the for the flying site I use and I will not willfully and
controls, tell you what the control surfaces are doing. Use a chicken stick or electric starter and follow the deliberately fly my models in a careless, reckless
Repeat this test with the engines running at various instructions to start your engine. and/or dangerous manner.
speeds with an assistant holding the model, using
hand signals to show you what is happening. If the Make certain the glow plug clip or connector is 4. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my
control surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly! secure so that it will not pop off or get into the name and address or AMA number, on or in the model.
Find and correct the problem first. Look for loose running propeller.
servo connections or broken wires, corroded wires 5. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any
on old servo connectors, poor solder joints in your Ask an assistant to hold the model from the rear device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of
battery pack or a defective cell in your battery pack, while you start the engines and operate the controls. any kind).
or a damaged receiver crystal from a previous crash.
Make all engine adjustments from behind the
rotating propeller. RADIO CONTROL
1. I will have completed a successful radio
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS The engine gets hot! Do not touch the engine during equipment ground check before the first flight of a
or immediately after you operate it. Make sure fuel new or repaired model.
NOTE: Failure to follow these safety precautions lines are in good condition so fuel will not leak onto
may result in severe injury to yourself and others. a hot engine and cause a fire. 2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless
Store model fuel in a safe place away from high heat, To stop the engine, close the carburetor barrel (rotor) assisted by an experienced helper.
sparks or flames. Do not smoke near the engine or or pinch the fuel line to discontinue the fuel flow. Do
fuel as it is very flammable. Engine exhaust gives off not use your hands, fingers or any body part to stop 3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from
a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide so do not the engine. Never throw anything into the prop of a the pit or spectator areas and I will not thereafter fly
run the engine in a closed room or garage. running engine. over pit or spectator areas, unless beyond my control.

44
4. I will operate my model using only radio control We recommend that you make your approach from
frequencies currently allowed by the Federal an altitude that would be typical for most sport
Communications Commission. airplanes. Reduce the power as you approach until
you are over the runway threshold. Then pull off all
the power and flair the plane to touchdown.
FLYING
If you have installed the flaps we recommend a
slightly different approach for landing. Set your
Takeoff landing approach a little higher than normal, deploy
Take offs with this airplane are very straightforward the flaps, point the nose at the runway and maintain
and uneventful. Accelerate slowly and steer the that approach until you are over the runway. Pull the
plane down the centerline. One of the great benefits power off and flair to touch down. With the flaps you
of a tricycle gear configuration is that it is not will find that the plane comes in very slowly. Be
generally affected by torque like a taildragger. careful not raise the flaps during an approach. This
could cause an abrupt loss of altitude. Top Flite Static Display
Flight Have a ball! But always stay in control and fly in a
3-Bladed Propeller
TOPQ7907
The flight characteristics of this plane are very good safe manner. GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!
at all ranges of the flight envelope. Slow speed flight
Enhance your model's realism with this injection-
is stable and shows no sign of tip stalling. Stalls are
molded propeller. It reproduces the 3-bladed style of
straight forward and gentle with the nose dropping
the original warbird, in the correct scale size. For
straight ahead. The roll rate at the low rate is very
static display use only—not intended for flight.
scale like and predictable. Rolling at the high end of
the recommended aileron throw will provide a much
faster roll rate. As you get used to the plane in the
first flight we think you will agree that the plane is
stable, predictable and a joy to fly.

If you have installed the flap option we recommend

that you get some altitude, decrease the throttle, and
add the flap. Do some slow flying with the flaps
down. When power is reduced you should see very
little ballooning of the airplane. Flying with flaps
should prove to be quite simple even if this is your
first airplane with flaps. Our prototype was powered
with the O.S. 61 FX. This power plant proved to have
plenty of power for all maneuvers including loops
and hammerheads.
Top Flite Drop Tank 108 Gallon Top Flite MonoKote
TOPQ7899
Landing Strong, fuel resistant and easy to apply, MonoKote
If you have the retract option, don't forget to extend For more authenticity—both on display and in film's special adhesive shrinks drum-tight with just an
your landing gear! This is very important! The sink flight—install this scale version of the tank used by iron or heat gun...and stays tight season after
rate on this airplane is fairly slow, so don't expect it to the full-size P-39 Airacobra. Top Flite includes season! Choose from dozens of Flat Finish and high-
drop out of the sky when you pull back on the power. hardware for attachment and in-flight release. gloss colors.

45
If you enjoyed building the Top Flite P-39, try one of these other outstanding .60 size Gold Edition kits as your next project.

Top Flite Corsair Top Flite P-40E Warhawk

TOPA0101 TOPA0120

62” Wing span 7-9.5 lbs 64” Wing span 8-10.5 lbs

Top Flite P-51 Top Flite Spitfire MK IX

TOPA0110 TOPA0140

65” Wing span 8-10 lbs 63” Wing span 7.5-8.5 lbs

46
 Top Flite 1/7 Scale Warbird Pilot
TOPQ9000

Top Flite Bonanza Make your cockpit come alive with this paintable WWII American pilot. Featuring
TOPA0305 fewer than a dozen pieces, it's made of a soft plastic that can be positioned in
lifelike attitudes. Use it as a full body or pilot bust.
81” Wing span 11-13 lbs

Top Flite P-39 Aira Cobra Cockpit Kit

TOPQ8408
Top Flite P-47D Thunderbolt
TOPA0135 This easy-to-install kit includes such precision-formed pieces as seat and
instrument panel, as well as seatbelt material, decals for gauges and
63” Wing span 8.5-10.5 lbs instruments, and more. Can be added to already assembled kits, too.

47
 TWO-VIEW
Use this drawing or photocopy it and use the copies to plan your trim scheme.