™

IN
DE
A
MA
US
Wingspan: 66 in [1,675mm]
Wing Area: 842 sq in [54.3 sq dm]
Weight: 10 - 12 lbs [4,540g - 5,440g]
Wing Loading: 27 - 30 oz/sq ft
[82 - 92 g/sq dm]
Length: 58 in [1,475mm]
Scale: 1:7

WARRANTY..... Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does
not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite‘s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves
the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed
nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all resulting
liability. If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused
condition to the place of purchase.

Top Flite Models P.O. Box 788 Urbana, Il 61803 Technical Assistance Call (217)398-8970 productsupport@top-flite.com

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

Entire Contents © Copyright 2001 SEAF6P01 for TOPA0155 V1.0

 TABLE OF CONTENTS Sheet the front fuse bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 INTRODUCTION
Mount the tail gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Mount the wing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Make the wing fillets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Top Flite Gold Edition Hawker Sea Fury. The Sea
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Frame the top of the fuselage . . . . . . . . . . 45 Fury is the type of plane that makes an ideal scale
Engine recommendations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Join the stab to the fuse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 model no matter what the size (we can’t take all the
Flaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Join the fin to the fuse. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 credit for a great-flying model!). Because of its large
Landing gear options . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Fit the air intakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
wing area and long tail moment, you’ll find that the
Spinner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Mount the engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Sea Fury is stable and predictable in the air.
Cockpit and pilot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Mount the cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Additionally, this Top Flite Gold kit incorporates
Trim scheme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Finish the engine compartment . . . . . . . . . 52
Complete radio installation . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 airfoils specially designed for Top Flite’s warbirds
Scale competition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED. . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Cut the cockpit opening. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 (S8036 at the root and S8037 at the tip). These
Hardware and accessories . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Scale display propeller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 airfoils provide slower stall speeds and gentle stall
Adhesives and building supplies . . . . . . . . . 5 FINISHING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 characteristics making Gold Edition kits among the
Optional supplies and tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Final preparations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 friendliest flying warbirds around!
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Trim scheme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
METRIC CONVERSIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Cover the model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 When it comes to construction, the high number of
TYPES OF WOOD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Arresting hook. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 die-cut parts minimizes carving and fitting, while
PREPARE TO BUILD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Painting. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 complete instructions guide you through every detail.
DIE-CUT PATTERNS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 &9 Paint the canopy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Without adding any additional scale details you’ll end
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 FINAL ASSEMBLY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 up with a model that very much represents a Hawker
Make the stab and fin skins . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Mount the canopy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Sea Fury. With a little research and some scale
Build the fin and rudder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Join the control surfaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 documentation you can go “all-out” and make your
Finish the fin and rudder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Hook up the controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Sea Fury a show-winning model.
Build the stab and elevators . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Apply the decals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
Finish the stab and elevators. . . . . . . . . . . 17 Add panel lines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
BUILD THE WING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY . . . . . . . . . . 63
Make the wing skins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Check the control directions . . . . . . . . . . . 63
Prepare the landing gear ribs . . . . . . . . . . 18 Set the control throws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
Frame the center section. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Balance the model (C.G.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
Mount the retracts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Balance the airplane laterally . . . . . . . . . . 64
Mount the fixed landing gear . . . . . . . . . . . 22 PREFLIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
Sheet the bottom of the center section . . . 23 Identify your model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 PROTECT YOUR MODEL,
Build the inner flaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Charge the batteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
Fit the retracts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Balance propellers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 YOURSELF & OTHERS
Mount the flap servos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Ground inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 FOLLOW THESE IMPORTANT
Build the outer wing panels . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Range check. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Build the ailerons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . 65 SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Join the wing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 AMA SAFETY CODE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Build the outer flaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 CHECK LIST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Hinge the flaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 FLYING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 1. Your Sea Fury should not be considered as a toy, but
Connect the inner flaps to the outer flaps . 34 Takeoff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very
BUILD THE FUSELAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Flight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 much like a full-size airplane. Because of its
Frame the bottom of the fuselage . . . . . . . 35 Landing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 performance capabilities, the Sea Fury, if not
Sheet the aft fuse bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause
injury to yourself or spectators and damage to property.
-2-
2. You must assemble the model according to the Remember: Take your time and follow the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as instructions to end up with a well-built model DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. that is straight and true.
In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly This is a list of items required to finish the Sea
from the photos. In those instances the written Before starting to build, compare the parts in this Fury that must be purchased separately and
instructions should be considered as correct. kit with the Parts List and the die drawings, and require a bit of decision making ahead of time.
note any missing parts. Also inspect all parts to Order numbers (in parentheses) are provided for
3. You must take time to build straight, true make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any your convenience.
and strong. parts are missing, broken or defective, or if you
have any questions about building or flying this ENGINE RECOMMENDATIONS
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first- airplane, please call us at (217) 398-8970, or e-
class condition, and a correctly sized engine and mail us at productsupport@greatplanes.com. If The official engine size recommendation range for
components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the you are contacting us for replacement parts, the Sea Fury is .61 to .91 cu. in. [10.0 to 15.0cc]
building process. please be sure to provide the full kit name (Top two-stroke or .91 to 1.2 cu. in. [10.0 to 19.8cc] four-
Flite Gold Edition .60 Sea Fury) and the part stroke. Our first Sea Fury prototype was flown with
5. You must correctly install all R/C and other numbers as listed in the Parts List. an O.S.® FS-.91 Surpass™ II (OSMG0896) which
components so that the model operates properly on was more than enough power. Our second
the ground and in the air. You can also check our web site at prototype (and the model featured in this
www.greatplanes.com for the latest updates. instruction manual and on the kit box
6. You must check the operation of the model before cover–weighing-in at eleven pounds) was flown
every flight to insure that all equipment is operating and If you have not flown a scale model before, we with an O.S. .61 FX (OSMG0561). Please take this
that the model has remained structurally sound. Be recommend that you get the assistance of an advice: The Sea Fury does not need to be
sure to check clevises or other connectors often and experienced pilot in your R/C club for your first overpowered. Even “all-up” with flaps, retracts,
replace them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue. flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local cockpit kit and pilot, the .61-powered model flew
hobby shop has information about clubs in your area best at about half to three-quarters throttle and
7. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot, whose membership includes experienced pilots. had plenty of reserve power for scale maneuvers
you should fly the model only with the help of a such as loops, chandelles and steep climb-outs. If
competent, experienced R/C pilot. In addition to joining an R/C club, we strongly you already happen to have a larger engine, it
recommend you join the AMA (Academy of Model could be used in this model (as long as it is within
8. While this kit has been flight tested to exceed Aeronautics). AMA membership is required to fly at the size recommendation). But, if you are still
normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely AMA sanctioned clubs. There are over 2,500 AMA deciding which engine to purchase, a strong .61
high stress flying, such as racing, the modeler is chartered clubs across the country. Among other two-stroke or a .91 four-stroke is highly
responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high benefits, the AMA provides insurance to its members recommended. Flying the Sea Fury with a 1.20
stress points. who fly at sanctioned sites and events. Additionally, may be within the size recommendation, but an
training programs and instructors are available at engine of this size does approach “over-kill,” so
AMA club sites to help you get started the right way. prudent throttle management must be exercised.
Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone Remember, this is a scale model that is intended
NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you to fly in a scale-like manner.
number below:
with a top quality kit and great instructions, but
ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished If using a .61 to .75 two-stroke engine, the Top
Academy of Model Aeronautics Flite in-cowl Warbird muffler (TOPQ7915) is
model depends on how you build it; therefore, we
5151 East Memorial Drive recommended because it may be fully concealed
cannot in any way guarantee the performance of
Muncie, IN 47302-9252 inside the cowl. The correct header is also
your completed model, and no representations
Tele. (800) 435-9262 required to connect the
are expressed or implied as to the performance or
Fax (765) 741-0057 (continued on page 4)
safety of your completed model.
Or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org
-3-
muffler to the engine. For the O.S. .61 FX or SF LANDING GEAR OPTIONS (8) #6 x 1/2" mounting screws
order TOPQ7920. For the Super Tigre® .61 to .75 (GPMQ3160, pkg. of 8)
G-series (muffler bolts go through the engine and The Sea Fury may be built with either fixed or JB Weld epoxy
screw into the muffler) order TOPQ7926. For the retractable landing gear. The pre bent fixed landing 3/4 oz. glass cloth to reinforce the wing
Super Tigre .61 to .75 K-series (muffler bolts go gear wires are included with this kit, so the only
sheeting inside the wheel wells (HCAR5000)
through the muffler and screw into the engine) additional item required to build the Sea Fury with
order TOPQ7925. Additionally, a long silicone tube fixed gear is 4" [100mm] wheels. If installing retracts, Optional: Robart air filler valve (ROBQ2368)
will be required to connect the Top Flite in-cowl there are two recommended options: The kit may be
muffler to the header. Aerotrend 3/4" [19.1mm] built to accommodate Robart #605 HD retracts with
inside diameter silicone tubing was used on this 3/6" [4.8mm] wire struts (ROBQ0005) or Century Jet
model (AERG2220). Models #32425 Top Flite Sea Fury system with scale These items are required if installing Robart
Note: The Top Flite in-cowl muffler is not struts (CJMQ4150). Instructions and are provided for retractable landing gear:
recommended for engines over .75 cu in. installation of either gear (see page 18 for additional, Robart #605HD 90-degree retracts (3/16"
important information on selecting retracts). [4.8mm] wire struts) (ROBQ0005)
Refer to the engine manufacturer’s recommendations Robart #188 Air control kit (ROBQ2388)
for selecting the correct propellers. If installing the Century Jet Models #3235 Top Flite 3/16" x 2" slip-on axles (GPMQ4278)
System with 1/2" [13mm] diameter struts
(2) Robart #190 Quick connectors
FLAPS (CJMQ4100) or any other system, the landing gear
rail spacing and/or position may require modification (ROBQ2395, pkg. of 2)
The Sea Fury may be built either with or without to accommodate the gear. 4" [102mm] Main wheels (ROBQ1518)
flaps. Flaps are not necessary for an enjoyable Robart #164G Hand Pump with Gauge
flying experience, but they do add greatly to scale Both Century Jet systems include all required (ROBQ2363)
realism. Landing with flaps is a blast (and can be components including retracts, struts, air lines, Servo to operate air control valve
safer) because the model is able to fly at reduced fittings, air control valve and air tank (some modelers
3/4 oz. glass cloth to reinforce the wing
speeds. Full instructions are included for building prefer to replace CJM’s air filler valve with Robart’s
the Sea Fury with flaps, but a little extra air filler valve). Whichever retract system is installed, sheeting inside the wheel wells (HCAR5000)
craftsmanship and skill (not to mention a little an additional servo will be required to operate the air
extra time) will be required. control valve.

These additional items are required to build

the Sea Fury with flaps: These items are required if installing Century
Jet Models retractable landing gear:
(2) Standard servos #32425 Top Flite Sea Fury system with scale
SPINNER
struts (CJMQ4100)
(1) Y-connector (HCAM2701– Futaba ) ®
-or- The Sea Fury requires a 4" [102mm] spinner. A P-51-
(1) 6" [150mm] Servo extension (connected to #32325 Top Flite Sea Fury system with 1/2" shape spinner looks better on this model than a
receiver for field setup (HCAM2000 for Futaba) struts (CJMQ32325) regular pointed sport spinner. Two C.B. Associates,
-and- Inc. #5105 P-51 spinners (CBAQ5520) were used on
(10) Small Pivot Point Hinges this model. One for static display (see page 55) and
Air pump (may use Robart air pump)
(GPMQ4001, pkg. of 15) one for flying. These spinners include the correct
4" [102mm] Main wheels (ROBQ1518) adapter for the O.S. .61, but another adapter may be
Servo to operate air control valve required if using a different engine.
3/32" [2.4mm] brass tube
(for drilling holes for hinges) Wheel cover mounts

-4-
COCKPIT AND PILOT If you plan to enter the Sea Fury in scale ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
competition (it’s lots of fun, and the runways are
Your Sea Fury won’t be complete unless a Top usually paved!), this kit may be entered in Fun Hardware and Accessories
Flite Sea Fury Cockpit Kit (TOPQ8412) and Top Scale, Sportsman Scale and Expert Scale classes
Flite 1/7 scale WW II Full Body Pilot (TOPQ9000) in AMA competition. All classes have the same In addition to the items listed in the “Decisions You
are installed. The cockpit kit includes the floor, flight requirements in which you must perform ten Must Make” section, following is the list of hardware
side panels, instrument panel, seat, headrest and maneuvers, five of which are mandatory. The other and accessories required to finish the Sea Fury.
accessories. It may be installed after the fuselage five are up to you–“easy” stuff like a slow, low Order numbers are provided in parentheses.
is completed, but is easier to fit during inspection pass with flaps extended, or maybe a
construction. The Top Flite pilot is the correct size touch-and-go. If you have never competed in a ❏ Four to six-channel radio with five to eight servos
for this model and fits perfectly in the cockpit. scale contest, you could start out in Fun Scale. In ❏ (1) Y-connector for ailerons (HCAM2500 – Futaba)
Fun Scale, the only documentation required is any
❏ (3) 6" [150mm] Servo extension cords (ailerons - 2,
proof that a full-size aircraft of this type, in the
TRIM SCHEME paint/markings scheme on your model, did exist. A receiver for aileron - 1 (HCAM2701– Futaba)
single photo, a kit box cover from a plastic model, ❏ Switch/charging jack mount kit (GPMM1000)
The trim scheme on the model on the kit box was or even a painting is sufficient proof! If you’re ❏ 12 oz. Fuel tank (GPMQ4105)
selected from a photo found on the Internet. It’s a interested, contact the AMA for a rule book that ❏ Fuel line (3’, GPMQ4131)
trim scheme of a racing plane, though it has a will tell you everything you need to know. You can ❏ Fuel filler valve for glow fuel (GPMQ4160)
military appearance. To duplicate the trim scheme find a contest schedule in the back of the AMA
❏ 1" [25mm] Tail wheel (GPMQ4241)
with MonoKote®, two 6' rolls of dove gray magazine (Model Aviation).
(TOPQ0211) and one 6' roll of insignia blue ❏ R/C Foam padding (1/4" [6mm], HCAQ1000, or
(TOPQ0207) are required. Additionally, a few feet One last note for those who are interested in scale 1/2" [13mm], HCAQ1050)
of black and white MonoKote are required for the competition; Strive to build this model to reflect
invasion stripes, and Top Flite LustreKote® white your documentation. Whatever lines and features
primer (TOPR7801), dove gray (TOPR7211), appear on the full size plane should also appear Adhesives and Building Supplies
insignia blue (TOPR7207) and crystal clear on the model.
(TOPR7200) are required for painting (see In addition to common modeling tools (screw drivers,
FINISHING beginning on page 56 for full details Three-view drawings and photo packs of full size hobby knives, drill, etc.), this is the “short list” of the
on painting and covering). Sea Furies are available from: most important items required to build the Sea Fury. We
recommend Great Planes Pro™ CA and Epoxy glue.
Scale Model Research Note: Additional CA may be required, but the quantity
SCALE COMPETITION 3114 Yukon Ave, Costa Mesa, CA 92626 listed below will get you started.
(714) 979-8058
The outline of the Top Flite Gold Edition Sea Fury Fax: (714) 979-7279 ❏ 2 oz. Thin Pro CA (GPMR6003)
was derived from three-view drawings, photos and ❏ 2 oz. Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6009)
highly detailed plastic model kits. Some areas of
❏ 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
the outline have been slightly changed to improve
flight characteristics. Notably, the area of the “tail ❏ Pro™ Wood Glue (GPMR6161)
feathers” has been slightly increased to improve ❏ CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
directional stability and control. ❏ CA accelerator (GPMR6035)
❏ Lightweight, sandable balsa filler (NHPR2211)
The scale of this model is 1:7 (or 1:7.07 to be ❏ Supply of #11 blades (HCAR0211)
more precise) which was derived by averaging the
❏ Single-edge razor blades (HCAR0212)
scale wingspan and the scale length.
❏ Medium T-pins (HCAR5150)
-5-
 ❏ Razor Plane (MASR1510) ❏ Microballoons (TOPR1090) Here’s the complete list of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders
❏ English size drill bits: 17/64" (or 1/4"), 1/4", ❏ R/C-56 Canopy Glue (JOZR5007) and Adhesive Backed Sandpaper:
7/32", 3/16", 5/32", 1/8", 7/64", 3/32", 1/16" ❏ Epoxy brushes (GPMR8060)
5-1/2" Bar Sander (GPMR6169)
-or- ❏ Mixing cups (GPMR8056)
11" Bar Sander (GPMR6170)
❏ Metric size drill bits: 6.7mm (or 6.4mm), 6.4mm, ❏ Mixing sticks (GPMR8055) 22" Bar Sander (GPMR6172)
5.6mm, 4.8mm, 4mm, 3.2mm, 2.8mm, 2.4mm, ❏ Threadlocker (GPMR6060) 33" Bar Sander (GPMR6174)
1.6mm ❏ Non-elastic monofilament or Kevlar fishing line 44" Bar Sander (GPMR6176)
❏ 1/4-20 Tap and #7 [5.1mm] drill for wing bolts for stab and wing alignment (K+SR4575) 11" Contour Multi-Sander (GPMR6190)
(GPMR8105) ❏ Builders Triangle Set (HCAR0480) (for fin
❏ 8-32 Tap and #29 [3.45mm] drill for engine alignment)
12’ roll of Adhesive-backed:
mounting (GPMR8103) ❏ Felt-Tip Marker (TOPQ2510) 80-grit sandpaper (GPMR6180)
❏ Denatured or Isopropyl Alcohol (to clean up ❏ Small metal file 150-grit sandpaper (GPMR6183)
excess epoxy) ❏ Rotary tool such as Dremel 180-grit sandpaper (GPMR6184)
❏ Sanding tools and assorted sandpaper (see ❏ Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel 220-grit sandpaper (GPMR6185)
Easy-Touch™ Bar Sander that follows) (GPMR8020)
❏ Curved Tip Canopy Scissors for Trimming
Assortment pack of 5-1/2" strips (GPMR6189)
Plastic Parts (HCAR0667)
Optional Supplies and Tools ❏ Dead Center™ Engine Mount Hole Locator We also use Top Flite 320-grit (TOPR8030, 4 sheets)
Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the (GPMR8130) and 400-grit (TOPR8032, 4 sheets) wet-or-dry
manual that will help you build the Sea Fury. ❏ Great Planes AccuThrow™ Deflection Gauge (for sandpaper for finish sanding.
measuring control throws, GPMR2405)
❏ Long handle 9/64" ball end hex wrench
(GPMR8004) ™
❏ Silver Solder (GPMR8070 w/flux)
EASY-TOUCH BAR SANDER
❏ Masking Tape (TOPR8018) Recommended covering tools
❏ Great Planes Plan Protector (GPMR6167) or and accessories
wax paper
❏ Dremel® #178 cutting bit (for countersinking ❏ Top Flite Heat Gun (TOPR2000)
screws in the servo hatch covers) ❏ Top Flite Trim Seal Tool (TOPR2200)
❏ Robart® Super Stand II (ROBP1402)
-and-
❏ Great Planes CG Machine™ (GPMR2400)
❏ Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer™
A flat, durable, easy to handle sanding tool is a ❏ Top Flite Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)
(TOPQ5700)
necessity for building a well finished model. Great ❏ Top Flite Hot Sock™ (TOPR2175)
❏ Straightedge with scale (HCAR0475)
Planes makes a complete range of Easy-Touch Bar
❏ Cutting mat (HCAR0456) Sanders (patented) and replaceable Easy-Touch -or-
❏ CA Debonder (GPMR6039) Adhesive-backed Sandpaper. While building the
❏ 6-Minute epoxy (GPMR6045) Sea Fury, we used two 5-1/2" Bar Sanders and two ❏ 21st Century® Sealing Iron (COVR2700)
❏ Milled fiberglass (GPMR6165) 11" Bar Sanders equipped with 80-grit and 150-grit ❏ 21st Century Cover Sock (COVR2702)
Adhesive-backed Sandpaper.
-6-
 IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES METRIC CONVERSION
1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor)
There are two types of screws used in this kit:
1/64" = .4mm 1" = 25.4mm
Sheet metal screws are designated by a number 1/32" = .8mm 2" = 50.8mm
and a length. 1/16" = 1.6mm 3" = 76.2mm
3/32" = 2.4mm 6" = 152.4mm
For example #6 x 3/4" long [19.1mm] 1/8" = 3.2mm 12" = 304.8mm
5/32" = 4mm 15" = 381mm
3/16" = 4.8mm 18" = 457.2mm
1/4" = 6.4mm 21" = 533.4mm
This is a number six screw that is 3/4" [19.1mm] long. 3/8" = 9.5mm 24" = 609.6mm
1/2" = 12.7mm 30" = 762mm
Machine screws are designated by a number, 5/8" = 15.9mm 36" = 914.4mm
threads per inch, and a length. 3/4" = 19mm

For example 4-40 x 3/4" long [19.1mm]

TYPES OF WOOD

Plastic bags filled with lead shot are recommended This is a number four screw that is 3/4" [19.1mm]
to be used as building weights because they long with forty threads per inch.
assume the shape of curved surfaces and apply
• When you see the term test fit in the instructions,
uniform pressure without making dents in balsa.
it means that you should first position the part on
Shot can be purchased at sporting goods stores
the assembly without using any glue, then
where hunting supplies are sold. #6 shot is
slightly modify or custom fit the part as necessary BALSA BASSWOOD PLYWOOD
recommended. One 25 lb. bag costs about fifteen to
for the best fit.
twenty dollars. Small, sealable food storage bags
can be used to hold the shot. Tape the bags shut for
• Whenever the term glue is written you should rely
security. Each bag holds about two to three pounds.
Fifteen to twenty bags is adequate for this project.
upon your experience to decide what type of glue PREPARE TO BUILD
to use. When a specific type of adhesive works
best for that step, the instructions will tell you what 1. A set of miniaturized building plans is included in
glue is recommended. the middle of this manual. They may be removed and
used as a quick, handy reference, so you don’t have
• Whenever just epoxy is specified you may use to get out the full-size plans when you are not
either 30-minute epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When building over them.
30-minute epoxy is specified, it is highly
recommended that you use only 30-minute (or 2. If you’ve already purchased the retractable
45-minute) epoxy because you will need the landing gear, or as soon as you do, take the air lines
working time and/or the additional strength. out of the package. Unravel the lines and hang them
somewhere in your shop. When it’s time to install the
• Photos and sketches are placed before the retracts, the kinks will be out of the lines and they’ll
step they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in be easier to work with.
following steps to get another view of the same parts. (Continued on page 10)
-7-
PLY DIE-CUT PATTERNS

-8-
BALSA DIE-CUT PATTERNS

-9-
3. Remove all the parts from the box. Use a ballpoint
pen (not a felt tip pen) to lightly write the name or enough working time to get the sheets aligned.
size on each piece so it can be identified it later. Use Hardened CA is also much harder than balsa which
the die-cut patterns on pages 8 & 9 to identify and can make sanding difficult.
mark the die-cut parts before removing them from
their die sheets. Many of the parts already have
numbers stamped on them, but in some cases the HOW TO GLUE
numbers are located alongside the parts or only on BALSA SHEETING TOGETHER
the die drawings in the manual. If a part is difficult to
remove from its die sheet, don’t force it out. Instead,
cut around the part with a hobby knife and a #11
blade. After removing the parts from their die sheets,
lightly sand the edges to remove slivers or die-
D. Lay the sheets on your workbench covered
cutting irregularities. As you proceed, it’s not
with Great Planes Plan Protector or wax paper.
necessary to save every scrap of wood, but some of
Use a credit card or something similar as a
the larger pieces of wood should be saved.
squeegee to simultaneously press the sheets flat
as you wipe the glue from the seam.
Note: If building the wing with fixed landing gear, do
A. Use a straightedge to true one edge of two
not punch out the holes in ribs W4 and W5 for the
balsa sheets.
retractable landing gear rails.

4. Separate the parts into groups such as stab, fin,

wing, and fuse. Store smaller parts in zipper-top
food storage bags.

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES E. Press the joining edges of the sheets down to
B. Use masking tape to tightly tape the trued make sure they are even. This is important and will
edges of the sheets together. greatly minimize the amount of sanding required
Make the stab and fin skins (and thus prevent over-thinning the balsa).
❏ 1. Use the Hot Tip that follows or your own method
to make three 1/16" x 6" x 30" [1.6 x 152 x 762mm]
balsa sheets from six 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6 x 76 x
762mm] balsa sheets.

Top Flite selects balsa that is intended for sheeting,

though occasionally a few of these sheets may have
a small nick or split near the ends. If your kit contains
C. Turn the sheets over and apply slow drying glue F. Place weights on top of the sheet to hold it flat
a few of these sheets, arrange them and glue them
such as Great Planes Pro aliphatic resin while the glue dries.
together so the defects will not interfere with the final
(GPMR6160) to the joining edges. Some modelers
shape of the skin.
prefer to use CA for gluing sheeting together, but G. After the glue dries, remove the tape and
CA is not recommended because it does not allow sand the sheets flat and even.

- 10 -
 Note: Some modelers tend to sand the sheeting Build the fin and rudder The stab and wing panels are built the same way, thus
simplifying construction and ensuring straight and true
too much after it is applied to the structure, ❏ 1. Unroll the fuse plan sheet. Roll it inside out so flying surfaces (providing your workbench is flat). This
making low spots over supported areas (such as it will lie flat.
over ribs and stringers) where fingers can easily system also eliminates the requirement for jig tabs on
the ribs which can break off while removing the ribs
punch through. By following the procedure above ❏ 2. Position the fuse plan so the fin and rudder from the die sheets, or during construction.
(specifically, by aligning the joining edges of the are over your flat building board, or cut the fin and
sheets as shown in step E), little sanding should rudder from the plan. Cover the plan with Great
be required. Most of the sanding that is required Planes Plan Protector or wax paper so glue will not
should be done before the sheeting is glued in adhere to the plan.
place. The only sanding that should be required
after the sheeting is glued to the structure is final
sanding with 320-or 400-grit sandpaper.

Here are a few other things to keep in mind

while sanding balsa sheeting:

1. Sand the sheets on a flat work surface

free from hardened drops of glue or other IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTE:
imperfections that will damage the sheeting.
2. Sand the sheeting only as much as
required. The inside needs to be sanded just
enough to remove excess glue and doesn’t have
to be smooth.
3. Though sanding across the grain
removes material faster, it leaves visible
scratches. Sanding with the grain is preferable,
especially when finish-sanding. ❏ 3. Without using glue, join the die-cut 1/16"
4. If the glue joint is uneven and requires [1.6mm] balsa fin ribs V 1 through V6 to the die-cut
much sanding, it may be best to leave it slightly The fin is initially built and sheeted while lying on its 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa vertical main spar (VMS), the
uneven rather than over-sanding. A slightly uneven right side supported by the TE spars and ribs. lower main spar (LMS), the upper TE spar (UTES),
glue joint is preferable to paper-thin balsa! the lower TE spars (LTES) and the rudder spar
(RS). Add the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa fin center
TE spar (CTS). Use T-pins to hold the assembly to
❏ 2. Set the sheets aside until it’s time to sheet the the plan.
tail surfaces.

❏ 4. Making certain that the vertical main spar, the

upper and lower TE spars and the ribs are contacting
the plan at their lowest point, use medium CA to glue
all the parts of the assembly together. Be certain to
pull the rudder spar all the way up into the notches of
When it’s time to sheet the other side, the fin is turned the ribs when gluing it into position. Note: Use only
over and supported by the sheeting and TE spar on the a small amount of CA on each glue joint. Avoid using
The Sea Fury was designed and built by Hawker
left side. The TE spars will be trimmed even with the excess CA which will cause glue blobs that may
Aircraft Ltd., Sutton Lane, Langley, Bucks, England.
sheeting after the fin has been completed. interfere with the sheeting that will be added later.
-11-
 Refer to this photo for the following two steps.

❏ 5. Use a bar sander with 80-grit sandpaper to ❏ 11. Place the fin on your workbench or a platform
sand the front the fin ribs at an angle for the sub LE. ❏ 7. Remove any T-pins that will interfere with the fin so the TE of the rudder is even with the edge.
and rudder skins or that will be concealed beneath
the skins after they are glued in place. Using the fin
assembly as a guide, make a fin skin for the left side
of the fin from one of the balsa sheets you prepared
earlier. Be certain to make the skin slightly oversized
as it will be trimmed to exact shape later. Glue the
skin into position with thick CA or aliphatic resin.

❏ 8. Make a rudder skin the same way. Glue the

rudder skin into position. Hint: Pin a large balsa stick
to the building board aligned with the location of the
rudder TE on the plan. This will insure accurate
positioning of the skin.

❏ 9. Remove the assembly from the building board.

Sand the right side of the fin so the sub LE and spars
are even with the ribs.

❏ 6. Cut the 1/16" x 1/2" x 30" [1.6 x 12.7 x 762mm] ❏ 10. Use the second balsa sheet you prepared to
balsa sub LE to the correct length, then glue it to the make another fin and rudder skin. Place the sheeted
front of the fin ribs. Save the remainder for the stab side of the fin/rudder assembly on the building ❏ 12. Use a bar sander with 80-grit sandpaper to
sub LE’s. Sand the upward facing edge of the sub LE board. Glue the remaining fin skin only to the right sand the TE of the rudder to a fine point as shown in
even with the tops of the ribs. side of the fin. the cross-section of the plan.
-12-
 but do not round yet. Hint: While sanding, rest the
bar sander on the sheeting, but apply pressure only
to the tip. If you fear sanding the sheeting too much,
protect it with a few strips of masking tape.

❏ 18. Cut two 5-1/2" [140mm] pieces from the 1/4 x

2" x 11-7/8" [6.4 x 51 x 302mm] balsa sheet. Glue
the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa fin tip core (FTC)
between both 1/4" [6.4mm] balsa sheets with the
bottom edges aligned. Sand both 1/4" [6.4mm] outer
❏ 13. Glue the remaining rudder skin to the rudder. pieces even with the fin tip core.
When doing so, position the rudder so it is resting flat
on the workbench.
❏ 21. Finish shaping the tip by rounding and
smoothing. For scale appearance, note that the tip is
sanded rather thin, yet round.
❏ 14. Glue both die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa upper
stab saddles (USS) to the inside of the rudder
skins and rib V2 as shown on the plan. Trim the fin Finish the fin and rudder
skins even with the saddles and the lower main spar.
❏ 1. Separate the rudder from the fin by using a razor
saw to cut through the ribs and the tip. Use a bar sander
with 80-grit sandpaper to sand the remainder of the ribs
❏ 15. Use a bar sander with 80-grit sandpaper to even with the fin TE and rudder spar.
true the edges of the sheeting even with the sub LE ❏ 19. Test fit the tip to the fin/rudder. Be certain the
and rib V6. Sand the edges of the upper and lower tip is vertical and in alignment with both the fin and
TE spar even with the fin sheeting. rudder. If necessary make adjustments, then glue
the tip into position.

❏ 16. Cut the fin LE from the 3/16" x 1/2" x 30" [4.8
x 12.7 x 762mm] balsa stick, then glue it to the fin.
Save the remainder of the balsa stick for the stab LE.

❏ 17. Sand both ends of the fin LE even with the top
and bottom of the fin. Use a razor plane followed with ❏ 2. Use a small square and a ballpoint pen to mark
progressively finer grits of sandpaper to round the fin ❏ 20. Use a razor plane followed by a bar sander to the rudder where the counter balance is to be glued
LE as shown in the cross-section on the plan. shape the tip even with the fin and rudder sheeting, on later (between ribs 3 & 4).
-13-
❏ 3. Sand the bottom of the rudder sheeting even T-pins in the center of the TE–one near each end.
with the bottom rudder rib. Position a straightedge against the T-pins and draw a
line with a ballpoint pen. Mark a centerline on the LE
of the rudder the same way.

❏ 6. Cut the fin TE and the rudder LE from a 1/4"

x 3/4" x 30" [6.4 x 19.1 x 762mm] balsa stick and
glue them to the fin and rudder. Sand the fin TE even
with the fin and sand the rudder LE even with the
rudder. Temporarily tack-glue the rudder to the fin
with about five small drops of medium CA.

❏ 4. Trace the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa rudder

base core (RBC) onto one end of the 3/8" x 3" x 30" ❏ 9. Cut four 3/4" x 1" [19 x 25mm] hinges from the
[9.5 x 76 x 762mm] balsa sheet two times as shown. 2" x 9" [51 x 230mm] CA hinge strip supplied with
this kit. Snip the corners off so they go in easier.

❏ 7. Final-sand the fin TE and rudder LE and the fin

and rudder tip even with each other. Break the
rudder free from the fin.

❏ 10. Using the centerlines as a guide, cut the hinge

❏ 5. Cut both pieces from the 3/8" [9.5mm] balsa slots where shown on the plan with a Great Planes
sheet and glue one on each side of the base core. Slot Machine, then proceed to step 11. If you do not
Glue the assembly to the bottom of the rudder. have a Slot Machine, follow the procedure that
Shape the rudder base to match the rudder, but do follows to cut hinge slots with a hobby knife and a
not round until instructed to do so (after the fuse has ❏ 8. Mark a centerline on the trailing edge of the fin. #11 blade (or run to the hobby shop and buy a
been constructed). This can most accurately be done by sticking two Slot Machine!).
-14-
 NOTES ABOUT CA HINGES reinsert the knife working the blade back and forth a
This kit is supplied with CA hinge material few times to provide more clearance (it’s the back
consisting of a 3-layer lamination of mylar and edge of the blade that does the widening).
polyester specially made for hinging model
airplanes. When properly installed, this type of C. Cut the rest of the hinge slots the same way.
CA hinge provides the best combination of
strength, durability and easy installation. We use ❏ 11. Temporarily join the rudder to the fin with the
these hinges on all our Gold Edition warbirds, but hinges. If necessary, sand the fin and rudder so they
it is essential to install them correctly. Follow match up well.
the hinging instructions in this manual for the
best result. The techniques shown have been
developed to ensure thorough and secure gluing.
❏ 13. True the edges of the fin sheeting around the
How to cut hinge slots with a hobby knife cut-out for the counter balance where indicated by
the arrows in the photo. Notch the LE of the rudder
When using a hobby knife to cut hinge slots, one of to accommodate the 3/4" x 1" x 1-1/4" [19.1 x 25.4 x
the most common mistakes made by modelers is 32mm] balsa counter balance where it will align
making the slots too tight. This restricts the flow of with the cut-out in the fin. Test fit the counter balance
CA to the back of the hinges. Another mistake made into the notch and see how it matches up to the cut-
when installing hinges is not using enough glue to out in the fin. Make adjustments where necessary.
fully secure the hinge over its entire surface area. ❏ 12. Use a razor plane followed by a bar sander to
This results in hinges that are only tack glued. Follow shape the LE of the rudder to a “V” for control throw.
these steps to cut hinge slots with a hobby knife: Make certain 1-5/8" [41mm] of right and left rudder
throw can be achieved. Increase the angle of the “V”
if necessary.

Hey, now all that has to be done on the rudder is

make the counter balance...

A. Using the centerline as a guide, cut one of the

hinge slots in the fin or rudder where shown on the
plan with a #11 blade. Begin by cutting a shallow slit.
Full-Size Sea Fury Specifications:
❏ 14. Securely glue the counter balance to the
Make three or four cuts along the same line, going rudder. Sand the counter balance to match the
Wingspan: 38'4" [11.7m]
slightly deeper each time. As you proceed, be rudder, then round the leading edge just enough to
Wing area: 280 sq ft [260 sq m]
certain to go straight into the wood and move the clear the fin.
Overall length (from tip of spinner to end of
knife from side to side until the blade has reached
rudder): 34'7" [10.5m]
the correct depth for the hinge.
Stab span: 14' [4.3m]
Max. gross weight: 14,600 lbs [6,623kg]
❏ 15. Fill the small notches in the upper and lower
B. Test fit a hinge into the slot. If the hinge does not TE spars on the left side of the fin with lightweight
Normal weight: 12,316 lbs [5,587kg]
slide into the slot easily, remove the hinge and balsa filler. Allow to dry, then final-sand.
-15-
Build the stab and elevators ❏ 5. The same as was done on the fin, sand the flat on the workbench, glue one of the stab skins into
fronts of the ribs at an angle to match the sub LE. position. When doing so, press down to hold the
Note: The stabilizer is built upside-down. There is Use the remainder of the 1/16" x 1/2" [1.6 x 12.7mm] sheeting to the structure and to hold the structure to
nothing to remember or figure out ahead of time. balsa stick used for the fin sub LE to make the stab the flat work surface. Glue the other stab skin to the
Simply build the stab as instructed. sub LE, then glue it into position. Sand the top of the stab the same way.
sub LE and spars even with the ribs.
❏ 1. Roll the wing plan inside out so it will lie flat.
Cut the stab plan from the wing plan and place it over ❏ 10. The same as was done on the rudder skin,
your flat building board. Cover the plan with Plan sand the TE of the bottom elevator skins to match
Protector so glue will not adhere. the tapering angle of the ribs. Glue the top elevator
skins into position.
Refer to this photo for the following four steps.

❏ 11. True all the sheeting even with both ends of

the stab/elevators and the sub LE.

❏ 6. Remove or relocate any T-pins that will interfere

with the sheeting or that will be concealed under the ❏ 12. Cut the remainder of the 3/16" x 1/2" [4.8 x
sheeting after it's glued into place. Cut the top stab 12.7mm] balsa stick used for the fin LE into two pieces
and elevator skins from the second balsa sheet for the stab LE, then glue it into position. Shape the LE
prepared earlier. Glue the skins to the top of the stab even with the stab, but do not round yet.
and elevators.

❏ 7. Remove the assembly from the plan. Use a

ballpoint pen to mark the side of the stab you just
❏ 2. Without using glue, join both sets of die-cut sheeted as “bottom”.
3/32" [2.4mm] stab ribs S2 through S5 to both die-
cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa stab main spars (SMS). ❏ 8. Cut the hinge blocks from the 1/4" x 3/8" x 11-
Place the assembly over the stab plan. If necessary, 7/8" [6.4 x 9.5 x 302mm] balsa stick, then glue them
widen the notches in the ribs and spars so they fit at to the stab TE spars where shown on the plan. Trim
the angle on the plan. the top of any hinge blocks where necessary so they
do not interfere with the top stab sheeting.
❏ 3. Still without glue, join both die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]
balsa stab TE spars (STES) and both die-cut 1/8"
[3.2mm] balsa elevator spars (ELES) to the ribs,
then pin the assembly to the building board aligned
over the plan. Glue the ribs to the main and TE spars. ❏ 13. Place both die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa stab
Hint: Pin a large balsa stick to the building board at tip cores (STC) over the plan. Note which end is the
both ends of the stab to help hold the two halves front (they’re not symmetrical like the fin tip, but
together and maintain alignment. they’re close). The same as you did for the fin tip, use
one of the stab tip cores to lay out the patterns on the
❏ 4. Glue both die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa stab remainder of the 3/8" x 3" x 30" [9.5 x 76 x 762mm]
ribs S1 together. Test fit, then use epoxy to glue the balsa sheet used for the rudder base. While you’re at
die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood stab joiner (SJ) and ❏ 9. Cut the top stab and elevator skins from the it, lay out the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa elevator
the S1’s to the assembly. remainder of the balsa sheeting. With the stab lying root core (ERC) patterns as well.
-16-
 Finish the stab and elevators the elevators as shown on the plan. Use a ballpoint
pen to mark the location of the joiner wires on
❏ 1. Use a ballpoint pen to mark the elevators in an the elevators.
inconspicuous location as “L” and “R.” Cut the
elevators from the stab. Sand the tips and rib stubs
even with the elevators and stab.

❏ 2. Glue the elevator root blocks to the elevator.

Sand the fronts of the blocks even with the LE spars.
Cut the elevator leading edges from the 1/4" x 3/4"
x 30" [6.4 x 19.1 x 762mm] balsa stick, then glue
them to the elevators. ❏ 6. Drill a 1/8" [3.2mm] hole in both elevators for
the joiner wire.
❏ 3. Shape the elevator LE’s and the root blocks
even with the elevators.

❏ 7. Cut a groove in both elevators to accommodate

❏ 4. Cut the hinge slots. Shape elevator leading edges the joiner wire. Hint: Use a Great Planes Groove
to a “V” to achieve 5/8" [16mm] of control throw. Tube (GPMR8140) or a 1/8" [3.2mm] brass tube
sharpened on one end to cut the grooves.

❏ 8. Test fit the elevators to the stab with the joiner

wire. If necessary, bend the wire so the elevators
align with each other. Note: If you found it necessary
to bend the wire, note that it must be reinserted into
❏ 14. Cut the tips and roots from the balsa sheet. the elevators the same way when it’s time to glue it
Glue them to the die-cut cores. Glue the stab tips to in. If this is the case, file a small notch in the right
both ends of the stab and elevators and shape them side of the joiner near the end.
the same way you did the fin (in two stages: first
sanding the tips to match the stab and elevator, then ❏ 5. With the elevators temporarily joined to the stab
by rounding the tips). with the hinges, center the elevator joiner wire on ❏ 9. Round the elevator root blocks.
-17-
 BUILD THE WING Follow the instructions to prepare the landing gear
ribs for the right side of the center section first.

Make the wing skins Perform this step only if installing #32425 CJM
❏ 1. The same as the balsa sheets for the tail Top Flite Sea Fury system with scale struts.
surfaces were made, make five 6" x 24" [152 x
610mm] sheets, and four 9" x 24" [229 x 610mm]
sheets from 22 3/32" x 3" x 24" [2.4 x 76 x 610mm]
balsa sheets.
❏ 2. After all the glue has dried, make two 12" x 24"
[305 x 610mm] sheets from four 6" x 24" [152 x
610mm] sheets (there will still be one 6" x 24" [152 x
610mm] sheet remaining).

❏ ❏ R2. Use a hobby knife to cut out one set of die-

Prepare the landing gear ribs cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood rib doublers W4A-F and
Retract options: W5A-F along the embossed lines as shown in the
If building the Sea Fury with Robart #605 HD retracts sketch. Do not cut out the areas indicated by the
with 3/16" [4.8mm] wire struts, there are two options. dashed lines, as these are for the fixed landing gear rail.
The “long-strut” option represents the correct scale
length of the landing gear struts. However, because of Perform this step only if installing fixed
poor ground handling over rough grass fields caused by landing gear.
the unusually long length of the struts, the long-strut
option is recommended only if flying from smooth, FIXED LANDING GEAR OPTION
paved surfaces. If flying from grass fields, the “short-
strut” option is recommended due to improved ground
W4A-F
handling. If installing any one of the Century Jet Models
retract options recommended, due to their design and
rigidity, the struts may be left at the scale length no
matter what surface you are flying from. Note: Most of DO NOT CUT OUT
the instructions depict the installation of the Robart
gear, but apply to both the installation of Robart gear
and the CJM scale gear. Where necessary, separate
W5A-F
❏ ❏ 4. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the rib doublers
instructions and photos are provided for the installation to a die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa wing rib W4 and W5
of the CJM scale gear. as shown on the plan and in the photo. Note: If
installing Robart #605 retracts, glue die-cut 1/8"
❏ 1. Place the center section of the wing plan. ❏ ❏ F3. Use a hobby knife to cut out one set of die-
[3.2mm] plywood rib doublers W4A-R and W5A-R
cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood rib doublers W4A-F and
to the ribs. If this is your first time through, be certain
Note: Steps preceded by an “F” are intended for W5A-F along the embossed lines as shown in the
to make the ribs for the right side of the center
fixed landing gear only (and will also be shaded). sketch. Do not cut out the areas indicated by the
section by gluing the doublers to the correct side of
Steps preceded by an “R” are intended for dashed lines, as these are for the retractable landing
the ribs (the ribs shown in the photo are for the
retracts only. gear rails.
right side).
-18-
❏ ❏ 5. Cut out the balsa from the ribs within the
open area of the ply doublers to accommodate the
landing gear rails.

❏ 6. Repeat the procedure, but this time, make a set

of landing gear ribs for the left side of the center section
being certain to glue the doublers to the correct sides
of the ribs as indicated on the wing plan.

❏ 6. Make shims from leftover balsa to support

Frame the center section bottom center main spar and push it up into the
notches in the ribs. Be certain the low-point on the
bottom of the ribs is contacting the plan. The exact
❏ 2. Cut two 1/8" x 3/8" x 36" [3.2 x 9.5 x 914mm] thickness of the shims may vary from kit to kit, but
basswood sticks and two 3/16" x 3/8" x 24" [4.8 x 9.5 the approximate thickness will be 1/8" [3.2mm].
x 610mm] balsa sticks to a length of 23-13/16"
[604.8mm]. Make a top and bottom center main
spar by gluing a basswood stick to the balsa stick.
Save the leftover basswood for the outer panels. ❏ 7. Making certain the bottom of the ribs and the aft
TE are fully contacting the plan, and that the ribs are
pushed all the way down into the notches of the
center TE spar, glue the ribs to the center TE spar. Pull
❏ 3. Without using any glue until instructed to the bottom center main spar tightly up into the notches
do so, join ribs W1 through W5 to the die-cut 1/8" in the ribs; then, making sure the bottom of the ribs are
❏ 1. If building flaps, use a straightedge and a [3.2mm] balsa center TE spar (CTES). Fit one of the contacting the plan, glue the spar to the ribs.
hobby knife to cut partway through one side of die- center main spars prepared earlier to the notches in
cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa wing ribs W3, W4, W5, W6, the bottom of the ribs. The balsa side of the center
W7 & W8 from the top of the notch to the tip as main spar faces downward.
shown. Later, the bottom of the ribs will be removed
to accommodate the flaps.

Refer to this photo for the following six steps. ❏ 4. Join the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood forward
dowel plate (FDP) to ribs W1 & W2.

❏ 5. Position the assembly over the plan. Pin the

center TE spar and the ribs over their locations on
the plan. Hint: Instead of directly pinning the ribs and
center TE spar to the plan, an easier and more
secure method is to place 1/2" x 1/2" [13 x 13mm] (or ❏ 8. Glue the top center main spar into position with
similar size) balsa sticks (indicated by the small the balsa side up. Use a small square to make
arrows in the photo) on both sides of the ribs and certain the W5 ribs on both ends of the center
center TE spar and pin the sticks to the plan. section are vertical.
-19-
 ❏ 11. Of the 3/32" x 3" x 36" [2.4 x 76 x 914mm] center TE making sure it aligns with the TE indicated
balsa sheets included with this kit, one of them is on the plan. Glue the top TE sheet into position.
hard and the rest are soft. Locate the hard balsa
sheet. Cut the ten shear webs for the center section
from the sheet, then glue them into position. Save ❏ 17. Glue one of the 3/32" x 12" x 24" [2.4 x 305 x
the remainder of this sheet for the shear webs for the 610mm] balsa sheets prepared earlier to the top of
outer panels. the center section. The suggested method is to apply
aliphatic resin to the top of all the ribs and spars and
❏ 12. Use epoxy to glue four die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] to the aft edge of the sheet where it contacts the
plywood inner webs (IW) to both the front and back center TE spar. Position the sheet and use weights to
of the main spars on both ends of the center section. hold it down. Use medium CA to glue the front of the
Be certain to use enough epoxy for a secure bond, sheet to the top of the center LE spar. Allow the
but don’t use too much epoxy so as to interfere with aliphatic resin to dry before proceeding.
the fit of the wing joiners that will be added later.

❏ 13. Sand the top center main spar, the center LE ❏ 18. Remove the center section from the building
spar and the webs even with the top of the ribs. board. Note: Do not trim the bottom of the center TE
spar from the bottom of the wing until instructed to
❏ 14. Glue the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa center do so. The center TE spar supports the section when
TE (WCTE) to a 3/32" x 3" x 24" [2.4 x 76 x 610mm] joining the outer panels.
balsa sheet. From now on this will be referred to as
❏ 9. Test fit, then glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa the top TE sheet.
wing center LE spar (CLES) to the assembly. Be If building the wing with fixed landing gear,
certain the center LE spar is centered vertically on all ❏ 15. Remove or relocate any T-pins that may proceed to “Mount the fixed landing gear” on
the ribs. become concealed after the top sheeting is glued page 22.
into position. If using weights to hold the sheeting
Refer to this photo for the following three steps. down, all the T-pins may be removed.

The Sea Fury uses a Bristol Centaurus 18 cylinder,

twin row, radial, air-cooled, supercharged engine.
Max. power is 2,300 H.P. in full supercharger mode
at maximum engine power altitude.
Engine oil tank capacity is 14 gallons with oil cooler.
❏ 10. Glue both die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood aft Exhaust pipe configuration in sliding grill provides
dowel plates (ADR) to the top and bottom spars ❏ 16. Sand the top TE sheet flat and even. Test fit and thrust augmentation.
between ribs W1 and W2. trim the sheet to fit the top of the wing against the
-20-
Mount the retracts Use a rotary tool with a sanding drum to trim the aft
rail to accommodate the coil in the strut.
❏ ❏ R1. Cut two 3-5/8" [92mm] long retract rails
from the 3/8" x 1/2" x 24" [9.5 x 12.7 x 610mm] Perform steps 6 & 7 only if installing the Robart gear.
maple stick (if installing the scale CJM retracts, cut
three rails and glue two of them together to make a ❏ ❏ R6. Cut the right landing gear strut to the correct
3/4" x 1/2" x 3-5/8" [19.1 x 12.7 x 92mm] aft rail). length. (For the long-strut option, the scale distance
from the wheel axle to the pivot point is 8" [203mm]. For
the “short-strut” option, the distance from the wheel axle
to the pivot point is 6" [152mm].)

❏ ❏ R4. If installing Robart gear, file a flat spot on

the end of the wire strut near the top for the set
screw in the retract unit to lock onto. Mount the strut
into the retract units and tighten the set screw.

❏ ❏ R7. File a flat spot on the end of the strut for

the set screw in the axle (not included, GPMQ4278).
The flat spots must be positioned so the axles will be
parallel with the main spars (as shown in the photo)
when the set screw in the axle is tightened.

Perform this step only if installing CJM scale

❏ ❏ R2. Test fit the rails into the openings in the ribs retracts.
on the right side of the center section. If necessary,
bevel the openings to accommodate the rails. Test fit ❏ ❏ R8. Position the landing gear strut in the landing
one of the retracts between the rails to make certain gear cam (the cast aluminum part of the gear that
it fits. Make adjustments if necessary. pivots to extend and retract the gear) so the axle is
parallel with the bottom main spar (though the photo in
❏ ❏ R3. Securely glue the retract rails into position the preceding step is of the Robart gear, the same idea
with 30-minute epoxy. For additional strength, add is illustrated). Tighten the set screw in the cam to lock
Great Planes Pro Milled Fiberglass (GPMR6165). Hint: ❏ ❏ R5. Position the retract unit between the rails. the strut in this position. Note: Before the gear doors
The outer ends of the rails are to be sanded at an angle Mark the locations for the holes for the mounting are mounted to the struts in step R10 on page 25, the
flush with the end of the center section. It may be easier screws. Drill appropriate size holes in the rails for the struts must be permanently glued into the cams with
to do this before gluing the rails into position. screws. If using #6 screws, drill 7/64" [2.8mm] holes. JB Weld (epoxy specially formulated for bonding metal).
-21-
 glass cloth (HCAR5000) to the inside surface of the airbrush. If you are using a paint that only comes in a
top sheeting between the ribs of the wheel wells. spray can (such as Top Flite LustreKote) and wish to
This will fuelproof and strengthen the exposed use an airbrush, spray the paint through a tube into a
sheeting inside the wing. cup. Allow LustreKote to stabilize in the cup for about an
hour. Transfer the paint to the spray jar for airbrushing.

When finished mounting the retracts, proceed to

“Sheet the bottom of the center section” on the
next page.

Mount the fixed landing gear

Refer to this photo for the following

three steps.
❏ R12. Sand the bottom main spar and center LE
spar even with the bottom of the ribs. Glue pieces of
leftover balsa to the landing gear rails to support the
bottom sheeting after it is cut out for the retracts.

❏ ❏ R9. Mount a 4" [102mm] wheel (not included) to

the axle with a 3/16" [4.8mm] wheel collar on both
sides. (Only one collar is required for CJM gear.)
Retract the wheels into the wing. Cut the ribs as
necessary to accommodate the wheels. Be certain the
retracts are able to fully lock in the retracted position.

❏ R10. Return to step two and mount the other ❏ F1. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue both 3/4" x
retract the same way.
3/4" x 4" [19.1 x 19.1 x 102mm] grooved
basswood fixed landing gear rails into the
notches in ribs W4 & W5. After the epoxy hardens
use another batch of 30-minute epoxy to glue
both 3/4" x 3/4" x 7/8" [19.1 x 19.1 x 22.2mm]
maple torque blocks to the rails and the ply
doublers where shown on the plan. Note:
Although the balsa shear webs and ply inner
webs do not appear in the photo, they should
already be installed in your model.

❏ F2. Drill 3/16" [4.8mm] holes through the rails

and the torque blocks where shown on the plan
for the fixed landing gear wires. Chamfer the
opening of the holes to accommodate the gear,
❏ R11. For the best appearance and durability, use ❏ R13. Paint the wheel area inside the wing with then test fit the gear.
30-minute epoxy or finishing resin to apply 3/4 oz. fuelproof paint. Best results will be achieved with an
-22-
 ❏ F3. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the ❏ 3. Cut the flap hinge blocks that go in the wing from
landing gear rails for the #2 x 1/2" [12.7mm] the 3/8" x 3/8" x 30" [9.5 x 9.5 x 762mm] balsa stick.
screws for the nylon landing gear straps. Glue the flap hinge blocks into position where shown on
Temporarily secure the gear to the rails with the the plan. Be certain the hinge blocks align with the
screws and straps. bottom of the ribs as shown in the cross-section.

Note: Mount the molded ABS wheel covers to the

landing gear wires as shown on page xxxx for the
retractable landing gear wires.

❏ 6. Lay the wing upside-down on your flat

workbench resting on the top sheeting and the
center TE spar. Sheet the bottom of the wing with the
3/32" x 12" x 24" [2.4 x 305 x 610mm] balsa sheet
The Sea Fury was designed and built by Hawker prepared earlier. If building the wing with fixed gear,
Aircraft Ltd., Sutton Lane, Langley, Bucks, England. first cut slots in the sheeting to accommodate the
landing gear rails as shown in the photo. The same
❏ 4. Cut both wing bolt blocks to fit between ribs as when sheeting the top of the wing, it is
Sheet the bottom of the center section W1 and W2 from the 3/4" x 1" x 6" [19.1 x 25.4 x recommended that aliphatic resin be used, except
152mm] balsa stick. Glue the wing bolt blocks to the for gluing the sheeting to the LE spar where medium
❏ 1. Cut a hole through the top sheeting where center TE spar and the ribs. CA is best. Do not glue the sheeting to the servo
shown on the plan for the servo wires and retract hatch supports. This will facilitate trimming the
gear air lines. sheeting when fitting the hatches later.

Refer to this photo for the following two steps. ❏ 7. Sheet the bottom of the wing over the wing bolt
blocks between the W2 ribs and the center TE spar
using a portion of the 3/32" x 6" x 24" [2.4 x 152 x
610mm] balsa sheet prepared earlier. Save the
remainder of this sheet for the inner flaps (or inner
flap sheeting if not building flaps). After sheeting the
wing, do not trim the bottom of the center TE spar
until instructed to do so (after the outer panels are
joined to the center section).

❏ 8. Use a long bar sander with 80-grit sandpaper

to sand the top and bottom sheeting even with both
ends of the center section and the center LE spar.
❏ 5. Sand the wing bolt blocks even with the bottom Glue the 1/4" x 1" x 24" [6.4 x 25.4 x 610mm] balsa
❏ 2. If building flaps, cut the hatch supports from the of the ribs. Only between the W2 ribs, bevel the leading edge to the sheeting and LE spar. Trim the
1/8" x 1/2" x 30" [3.2 x 12.7 x 762mm] basswood stick, trailing edge of the top TE sheet to the same angle LE even with the sheeting and both ends of the
then glue them into position where shown. Sand the as the ribs. Hint: Use a piece of leftover plywood as center section, but do not final-shape until instructed
hatch supports even with the bottom of the ribs. a “fence” to keep from sanding past the #2 ribs. to do so.
-23-
❏ 9. If not building flaps, sheet the bottom of the Refer to this photo for the following two steps. stick leftover from the hinge blocks for the wing. Glue
wing from the center TE spar aft using the remainder the hinge blocks to the flap. Use a bar sander with
of the 3/32" x 6" x 24" [2.4 x 152 x 610mm] balsa 80-grit sandpaper to sand the flap LE even with the
sheet used to sheet between the W2 ribs. tops of the flap ribs and bevel the TE of the flap skin
to the same angle as the flap ribs.
If not building flaps, proceed to “Fit the retracts.”

Build the inner flaps

Build the right flap first so your progress will
match the photos.

❏ ❏ 2. Use one of the die-cut 1/32" [.8mm] plywood

inner flap frames (IFF) as a pattern to make a flap
skin from the remainder of the 3/32" x 6" x 24" [2.4 x ❏ ❏ 5. Glue the inner flap frame to the top of the
152 x 610mm] balsa sheeting used for the bottom of flap. Test fit the flap to the wing. Sand the flap as
the wing. necessary for a good fit.

❏ ❏ 3. Cut the flap LE from the 1/4" x 1/2" x 36" [6.4 ❏ 6. Build the left inner flap the same way.
x 12.7 x 914mm] balsa stick and glue it to the top of
the flap skin (save the remainder of the stick for the If not installing retracts, proceed to “Mount the
left inner flap and for the outer flaps). Glue the die- flap servos.”
cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa flap ribs F2 through F5 to
the flap skin and the flap LE. Fit the retracts

❏ ❏ R1. Cut a small hole in the bottom sheeting

between the retract rails.

❏ ❏ 1. Cut and remove the lower portions of ribs

W3, W4 & W5 along the lines partially cut earlier.
Make half-ribs that fit between the wing ribs from
leftover 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa. Glue the half-ribs into
position. Sand the half ribs and the trimmed-down
wing ribs even and sand the trailing edge of the wing
sheeting on top of the wing down to a thickness of
1/32". (Though bottom of the wing in the photo is not ❏ ❏ 4. Cut the hinge blocks that go into the flaps ❏ ❏ R2. Carefully enlarge the hole until the retract
sheeted, yours should be at this time.) from the 3/8" x 3/8" x 30" [9.5 x 9.5 x 762mm] balsa rails and balsa supports can be seen.
-24-
 Steps R6 through R9 are for the Robart gear. If when the gear is retracted. If necessary, remove the
installing CJM gear, go to step R10. landing gear wire and bend it in a vice until the
required thickness of the lower block is
approximately 1/4" [6mm].

❏ ❏ R3. Neatly enlarge the opening just enough to

fit the retract. Mount the retract to the rails. Hint: For
a neat appearance, round the corners of the wing
sheeting as in the photo. ❏ ❏ R6. Make two 1-1/8" [28.6mm] long wheel
cover mounting blocks from the 1/4" x 3/8" x 6" ❏ ❏ R8. Trim the bottom wing sheeting as necessary
[6.4 x 9.5 x 152mm] basswood stick. Drill 1/16" to accommodate the upper mounting block.
[1.6mm] holes through the mounting blocks, then
mount them to the strut with the nylon straps and #2
x 3/8" [9.5mm] screws. The top block should be
about 1" [25mm] below the top of the wheel cover
and the bottom block should be about 1" [25mm]
above the bottom of the wheel cover. (The upper
mounting block is shown in the photo.)

❏ ❏ R9. Thoroughly sand the wheel cover so glue

❏ ❏ R4. A little at a time, cut the opening in the will adhere. Glue the wheel cover to the mounting
bottom sheeting for the wheel and strut until the gear blocks with medium CA.
is able to fully retract into the wing. Be certain there
is enough clearance on the aft edge of the opening
to allow the gear to retract even if slightly bent back
during a rough landing. Usually at least 1/4" [6mm] ❏ ❏ R7. Trim the mounting blocks to the correct
clearance is suggested. (There is a photo of the thickness, so that when the wheel cover is attached
installed CJM gear on page 26.) to the blocks (by gluing with CA later on), the wheel
covers will contact the bottom of the wing when the Propeller:
❏ R5. Use curved plastic scissors to cut out the wheels are retracted. On the model shown in this Hydraulically operated, constant speed, left-hand
molded ABS left wheel cover. If building the wing manual, the upper mounting block required rotating, tractor Rotol propeller. 12' 9" [3.99m]
with short struts, trim the wheel covers to fit the additional balsa to build it up to the correct thickness. diameter, five duralumin blades with pitch from
struts. (One of the wheel covers can be seen in Note: The thickness of the lower blocks depends 29 degrees to 64 degrees.
following photos.) upon how far inside the wing the landing gear wire is
-25-
 Perform steps R10 and R11 only if installing
CJM gear.

❏ ❏ R13. Optional: Cut two 2-1/4" x 5-1/2" [57 x

140mm] sheets from a 1/32" [.8mm] plywood sheet
❏ ❏ R10. At this time the struts must be (not included). Place one of the sheets in one-half of
permanently glued into the cams with JB Weld metal the opening in the wing for the wheel and draw the
bonding epoxy. Position two plastic landing gear door ❏ ❏ R11. Use a ballpoint pen and a straightedge to outline of the cutout onto the ply sheet. Do the same
mounts (included with the CJM Top Flite Sea Fury mark alignment lines on the bottom of the wing across for the other ply sheets in the other side of the wheel
scale gear) on the strut so the outer door mounting the gear door mounts. Position the gear door on the opening. Cut the sheets along the line, then glue
surface of the mounts is parallel with the bottom of bottom of the wing, then drill 1/16" holes through the them to the bottom sheeting inside the wing. This
the wing when the gear is retracted. Use thin CA to doors and mounts. Mount the gear doors to the door greatly strengthens the wing sheeting around the
glue the door mounts to the struts. If necessary, glue mounts using #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] screws included with edges of the wheel opening.
strips of hard balsa to the mounts, then align with the this kit. Glue a strip of leftover 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa to the
bottom surface of the wing by sanding flush so the inside of the gear door to add rigidity. ❏ R14. Return to step 1 and mount the other retract
gear doors will fit the bottom of the wing when the the same way.
landing gear is retracted. As can be seen in the
photo, only the top mount on this model required If not building flaps, proceed to “Build the outer
building up with balsa. wing panels.”

Mount the flap servos

❏ ❏ R12. Connect the air lines to the air cylinder on the

retract. Use a retract air pump or a can of compressed
air such as Hobbico® Duster,™ (HCAR5500) to retract
and extend the gear. Check the fit of the wheel cover to
the wing when the wheel is retracted and fully locked.
Make adjustments to the height and positioning of the ❏ ❏ 1. Cut a hole in the bottom sheeting along the
mounting blocks so the wheel covers fit well. inside edges of the hatch supports.
-26-
 hatch in position, drill six 1/16" [1.6mm] holes Build the outer wing panels
through the punchmarks in the hatch and the hatch
supports. Without moving the hatch, use a ballpoint ❏ 1. Build the left outer panel first. Cut the left wing
pen to draw the outline of the hatch directly onto the panel plan from the wing plan and place it over your
sheeting. Remove the hatch. flat building board. Cover the plan with Plan
Protector so glue will not adhere.

❏ ❏ 2. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes in two 5/16" x 3/4"

x 7/8" [7.9 x 19.1 x 22.2mm] basswood servo mount
blocks and mount the aileron servo to the blocks
using the screws that came with the servo. Glue the
servo mount blocks to a die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]
plywood servo hatch with 30-minute epoxy (be ❏ ❏ 5. Enlarge the holes in the hatch only with a
certain the servo is positioned on the hatch as 3/32" [2.4mm] drill. Countersink the holes in the
shown on the plan for the side of the center section hatch for the #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] flathead hatch ❏ ❏ 2. Make two spar doublers as shown on the
you are working on, and that the servo arm is mounting screws. Hint: Use a Dremel #178 cutting plan from the two 1/8" x 3/8" [3.2 x 9.5mm]
centered in the opening in the hatch). Note: The bit to countersink the holes. basswood sticks leftover from the center section.
basswood servo mount blocks are porous and Glue each spar doubler to a 3/16" x 3/8" x 24" [4.8 x
rapidly absorb epoxy. Apply a few coats of epoxy to 9.5 x 610mm] balsa stick as shown in the photo, to
the blocks and wait a few minutes between coats to make the top and bottom outer main spars. Cut
let it soak in before mating the blocks to the hatch. the spars to a length of 19-3/4" [502mm].

❏ ❏ 3. After the epoxy has hardened, remove the Refer to this photo for the following seven steps.
screws that mount the servos to the blocks. Apply a
few drops of thin CA to the holes and allow to
harden. Remount the servo to the blocks.

❏ ❏ 6. Add a few drops of thin CA to the holes in the

hatch supports for the hatch mounting screws and
allow to fully harden. Mount the hatch with the screws.

❏ 7. Return to step one and mount the other flap

hatch the same way. Make certain the hatches are
positioned as shown on the wing plan.

❏ ❏ 4. Place the hatch (with the servo) over the This is all that can be done on the center section ❏ ❏ 3. Using care, widen the notches in one set of
hatch supports on the wing. Securely holding the until the outer panels are completed and joined. die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa wing ribs W6 through
-27-
W12 and in the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa mid TE ❏ ❏ 11. Use a razor plane followed by a bar sander
spar (MTES), the outer TE spar (OTES) and the with 80-grit sandpaper to shape the top main spar
aileron spar (AS) so they can be joined together at and the LE spar even with the top of the ribs.
the angle shown on the plan.
❏ ❏ 4. Join the ribs to the mid TE spar, outer TE
spar and the aileron spar. Fit one of the outer main
spars into the notches in the bottom of the ribs. Place
the assembly over the plan. Use T-pins to hold the
spars to the building board (or use the same balsa
sticks used on the center section to hold the spars to
the plan).
❏ ❏ 5. The same as was done for the bottom main
spar of the center section, make shims from leftover ❏ ❏ 15. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue two die-cut
balsa to raise the bottom main spar of the outer 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood outer webs (OW) to the front
panel up into the notches in the ribs, but be certain and back of the top and bottom main spars. The
the ribs remain in contact with the plan. Due to the same as when gluing the inner webs to the center
taper of the wing, the shims nearer the root of the section, use enough epoxy for a secure bond, but
wing will be thicker than the shims nearer the tip. ❏ ❏ 12. Trim one of the 3/32" x 9" x 24" [2.4 x 229 don’t use too much epoxy so that it interferes with the
x 610mm] balsa sheets prepared earlier as shown in fit of the wing joiners later on. Cut the four shear
❏ ❏ 6. With the shims underneath, pin the bottom the sketch. Glue the cut-off piece back to the sheet webs from the 3/32" x 3" [2.4 x 76mm] hard balsa
outer main spar to the building board.
as shown. After the glue dries sand the sheet flat. sheet used for the shear webs of the center section.
❏ ❏ 7. Glue all ribs except rib W6 to the TE spars This is the top wing skin. Glue the shear webs into position where shown on
and the bottom outer main spar. Be certain the ribs, the plan.
especially rib W12 at the wing tip, are vertical.
❏ ❏ 8. Making certain the ribs remain vertical, glue
the top outer main spar to ribs W7 through W12.
❏ ❏ 9. Join the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa outer LE
spar (OLES) to the assembly and glue it to ribs W7
through W12.

❏ ❏ 13. Trim the top wing skin to fit the wing.

Remove or relocate any T-pins that will be concealed
❏ ❏ 10. Use the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood under the top wing skin. Glue the skin into position. ❏ ❏ 16. Cut the hatch supports for the ailerons from
dihedral gauge (DG) to set rib W6 at the correct the 1/8" x 1/2" x 30" [3.2 x 12.7 x 762mm] basswood
angle. Holding W6 at the correct angle, glue it to the stick. Glue the hatch supports into position, then sand
rest of the assembly. ❏ ❏ 14. Remove the wing panel from the building board. them even with the bottom of the ribs.
-28-
❏ ❏ 17. If building flaps, use the remainder of the 610mm] balsa sheet using one of the die-cut 3/32"
3/8" x 3/8" x 30" [9.5 x 9.5 x 762mm] balsa stick [2.4mm] balsa top aileron skins (TAS) as a pattern.
(used for the flap hinge blocks for the center section)
to make the flap hinge blocks for the outer panel.
Glue the hinge blocks into position. Remember that
the hinge blocks are to be even with the bottom of
the ribs.

❏ ❏ 18. Sand the bottom main spar and the bottom

of the outer LE spar even with the bottom of the ribs.
Prepare a bottom wing skin the same as the top wing
skin, then sheet the bottom of the wing. Do not glue
the bottom skin to the hatch supports. ❏ ❏ 5. Glue the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa aileron
rib (AF) to the aileron as shown. Make a half-rib for
❏ ❏ 19. Trim the top and bottom sheeting even with ❏ ❏ 2. Glue together both parts of the die-cut 3/32" the end of the outer flap skin from leftover 3/32"
both ends of the panel and the outer LE spar. Trim [2.4mm] balsa outer flap skin (OFS). Sand both [2.4mm] balsa and glue it to the end of the flap with
the bottom of the mid and outer TE spars even with sides of the flap skin flat. True the tip end by sanding a 1/16" [1.6mm] gap between the aileron rib. Cut the
the bottom sheeting. Trim the bottom of the aileron straight. Place the skin over its location on the wing. control horn mount from leftover 3/8" x 3/8" [9.5 x
spar even with the bottom of the ribs. Carefully examining the plan, note which end of the 9.5mm] balsa and glue it into position.
skin is the tip and which end is the root (they may
❏ ❏ 20. Glue the 1/4" x 1" x 24" [6.4 x 25.4 x easily be confused). Sand the inside of the outer flap
610mm] leading edge to the LE spar and wing skin smooth for painting later.
sheeting. Shape the LE to match the wing, but do not
round until instructed to do so.
❏ 21. Cut the right wing panel plan from the wing
plan and place it over the building board. Cover the ❏ ❏ 3. Test fit the outer flap skin to the top of the ❏ ❏ 6. Make the aileron tip rib from leftover 1/8"
plan with Plan Protector and return to step 2 and wing. If necessary, trim the front of the skin so the TE [3.2mm] balsa and glue it into position.
build the right wing panel. will be even with the aileron skin. Glue the flap skin
into position.

Build the ailerons

❏ ❏ 4. Trim the top of the aileron spar even with the

tops of the ribs. Glue the top aileron skin into ❏ ❏ 7. Using the aileron ribs as a guide, use a bar
❏ ❏ 1. Build the left aileron first. Make a bottom position on the top of the aileron. Note that the skin sander with 80-grit sandpaper to bevel the TE of the
aileron skin from a 3/32" x 3" x 24" [2.4 x 76 x extends 1/8" [3.2mm] beyond rib W12. top aileron skin.
-29-
 ❏ ❏ 11. Shape the aileron LE even with the aileron
and shape the outer TE even with the wing.

❏ ❏ 8. Glue the bottom aileron skin to the top

aileron skin with medium or thick CA. Be certain to
use plenty of CA along the TE to ensure a good bond
and to increase the rigidity of the TE.

❏ ❏ 12. Tack glue the aileron to the wing. The

aileron and wing should already match up well, but
sand where necessary for a seamless transition. ❏ ❏ 15. Sand the wing tip even with the wing, then
round the corners.
❏ ❏ 13. The same as the stab and fin tips, make the
wing tip by gluing a die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa ❏ ❏ 16. Carefully “break” the aileron free from the wing.
wing tip core (WTC) between the wing tip top cut
from the 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 18" [19 x 38 x 457mm] balsa ❏ 17. Fill the space between the wing tip and the
sheet and the wing top bottom cut from the 1/2" x 1- wing with leftover balsa or balsa filler.
1/2" x 18" [13 x 38 x 457mm] balsa sheet. Be certain
the 1/2" [12.7mm] sheet is on the bottom.
❏ ❏ 9. Use a razor saw to cut the aileron from the
wing. Trim the ribs even with the outer TE spar on the
wing, and the aileron spar. Finally, trim the top of the
mid and outer TE spars even with the top sheeting.

❏ ❏ 18. Cut the hinge slots in the aileron and the

wing. Bevel the LE of the aileron for control throw.
❏ ❏ 14. Glue the wing tip to the end of the wing Cut four more 3/4" x 1" [19 x 25mm] CA hinges and
❏ ❏ 10. Cut the aileron LE and the outer wing TE panel making certain the front of the core aligns with test fit the aileron to the wing with the hinges. Be
from the 1/4" x 1" x 30" [6.4 x 25.4 x 762mm] balsa stick. the leading edge and that the back of the core aligns certain enough control throw can be achieved as
Glue both parts to the aileron and wing respectively. with the TE of the aileron. indicated in the Control throws section on page 63.
-30-
❏ ❏ 19. The same as the flap hatches, mount the Join the wing
aileron servo to a die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood
servo hatch. Mount the hatch to the wing. Be certain
the servo and hatch you are working on are
positioned the same as shown on the plan for the
wing panel you are currently working on. Add a few How to Solder
drops of thin CA to the holes in the hatch supports
for the hatch mounting screws. A. Use denatured alcohol or other solvent to
remove residual oil from the pushrod.

B. Thoroughly roughen the end of the pushrod

where it is to be soldered with coarse sandpaper.

C. Apply a few drops of soldering flux to the end of

the pushrod. Simultaneously heat the end of the
pushrod with a soldering iron or a torch while ❏ 1. Glue both sets of die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood
coating the end of the pushrod with silver solder wing joiners (WJ) together.
(GPMR8070) by touching the solder to the pushrod
(this process is known as “tinning”). The heat of the
pushrod should melt the solder—not the flame of
the torch or the soldering iron. Note: Do not use the
acid flux that comes with silver solder for electrical
soldering.

D. Join the clevis to the pushrod. Add another drop

of flux. Heat the joint and add more solder if
needed. The same as when tinning, the heat of the
parts being soldered should melt the solder, thus
allowing it to flow. Allow the joint to solidify without
disturbing it. Avoid excess blobs, but make certain
the joint is thoroughly soldered. The solder should
be shiny, not rough. If necessary, heat the joint
again and allow it to cool slowly without disturbing.

E. After the joint has solidified but is still hot,

carefully use a cloth to wipe away residual
soldering flux. Important: After the joint cools, coat
❏ ❏ 20. Read "How to Solder" in the following Hot
the clevis with oil to protect it from rusting.
Tip, then connect the aileron servo to the aileron
using the hardware shown on the plan. After you drill
the 1/16" [1.6mm] holes for the #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] ❏ 2. Cut through rib W6 on the end of both outer wing
screws that mount the control horn to the aileron, ❏ 21. Return to step 1 and build the right aileron. panels between the top and bottom spars (where
harden the area and the holes by applying several indicated by the arrows in the photo) and remove that
drops of thin CA. Allow the CA to harden before If building flaps, the flaps will be completed after the area of balsa to accommodate the wing joiners. Do the
mounting the control horn. three wing panels have been joined. same on both ends of the center section.
-31-
 center section. Prop up the tip 1-1/2" [38mm] to set the
correct dihedral. Do not disturb the wing until the epoxy
has fully hardened.

❏ 9. Join the other panel to the center section the

same way.

❏ 10. Trim the bottom of the center TE spar even

with the bottom sheeting.

❏ 11. If not building working flaps, sheet the bottom

of the flap area with leftover 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa.
Proceed to “BUILD THE FUSELAGE” on page 35.
❏ 3. Test fit a wing joiner in each panel. Make ❏ 5. Gather everything you will need to join the wing
adjustments to the joiners as necessary so the panels. Lay two or three paper towels on top of each
panels fit together well. other and cut them into 2" to 3" [50 to 75mm] squares
(you’ll find that these small squares are handy–not to
mention a cost saver instead of wasting whole paper
towels just to wipe up a small drop of glue). Also gather
denatured alcohol, a few epoxy mixing cups,
microballoons, a roll of masking tape, an epoxy brush Build the outer flaps
and wax paper or plan protector to cover the workbench.
Build the right flap first so your progress will
❏ 6. To provide adequate working time before the match the photos.
epoxy hardens, it is recommended to join one outer
panel at a time to the center section. Separate the
outer panels from the center section.

❏ 7. Mix at least 1/2 oz. of 30-minute epoxy with an

equal amount of microballoons. Prepare a separate
batch of 1/2 oz. of just 30-minute epoxy. Proceed
immediately to the next step.

❏ 8. Thoroughly coat one half of one of the joiners and

the inside of both joining panels with the
epoxy/microballoons mixture. Insert the joiner into the
❏ 4. Lay the center section on your flat workbench and respective wing panel, then coat the exposed end of the
place weights on top of it to hold it down. Temporarily joiner with the rest of the epoxy and microballoons. Use
join the outer panels to the center section with the an epoxy brush to coat the ribs on the ends of both ❏ ❏ 1. Remove the aileron from the wing. Trim the
joiners. The outer panels have a dihedral angle of 5 joining panels with the 30-minute epoxy. Join the outer bottoms of the ribs W6, W7 & W8 along the lines
degrees, which means both tips should be propped-up panel to the center panel and the joiner. Use the paper marked earlier. Use leftover 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa to
1-1/2" [38mm] (plus or minus 1/16" [1.6mm]–as long as towel squares moistened with alcohol to wipe away make the remaining two half-ribs and glue them into
both panels are equal) under rib W12 to get the correct excess epoxy. Tightly hold both wing panels together position. Sand all the ribs even with each other.
angle. If necessary, trim the wing joiners to achieve the with as much masking tape as required. Lay the wing Using the ribs as a guide, sand inside the TE of the
correct dihedral angle. on the flat workbench and place weights on top of the top wing sheeting to a thickness of 1/32" [.8mm].
-32-
 ❏ ❏ 5. Cut the outer flap hinge blocks from Hinge the flaps
leftover 3/8" x 3/8" [9.5 x 9.5mm] balsa and glue
them into position. Use a bar sander with 80-grit Start with the right side.
sandpaper to sand the flap LE even with the tops of
the flap ribs and sand the TE of the flap skin to a
bevel that is also even with the flap ribs.

❏ ❏ 2. Test fit a die-cut 1/32" [.8mm] plywood outer ❏ ❏ 1. Use a straightedge and a ballpoint pen to
flap frame (OFF) to the wing. If necessary, trim the lightly draw reference lines (indicated by arrows in
outer flap frame to fit well. the photo) across the bottom of the wing and flaps
over the hinge blocks. Be certain the lines are
perpendicular to the TE spars.
❏ ❏ 3. Use the outer flap frame as a pattern ❏ ❏ 6. Glue the outer flap frame to the top of the flap.
to make an outer flap skin from leftover 3/32"
[2.4mm] balsa. ❏ 7. Return to step 1 and build the left outer flap the
same way.

Refer to this photo for the following two steps.

In addition to a catapult takeoff on aircraft

❏ ❏ 4. Cut the outer flap LE from the remainder of carriers, the Sea Fury also featured rocket-assist
the 1/4" x 1/2" [6.4 x 12.7mm] balsa stick leftover
takeoff with the installation of six electrically-fired
❏ ❏ 2. Make a drill jig by drilling a 3/32" [2.4mm]
from the inner flap LE’s. Glue the LE to the inside of hole through a leftover basswood stick 1/8" [3.2mm]
rocket motors. The motors were attached to a
the balsa flap skin. Glue the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] from one edge. Glue another piece of leftover
frame mounted to the underside of the fuselage
balsa flap ribs F6, F7 & F8 to the flap skin and the basswood to the top of the block, extending 1/8"
aft of the main gear doors.
flap LE. [3.2mm] beyond the edge.
-33-
 Connect the inner flaps to the outer flaps

Start with the right side.

❏ ❏ 3. Align the hole in the drill jig with one of the

reference lines on the wing. Using the drill jig as a
guide, drill a hole for the flap hinge with a 3/32"
[2.4mm] brass tube sharpened on the end. Remove
the brass tube from the drill. Use a piece of wire to ❏ ❏ 1. Use a ballpoint pen and a straightedge to
push the balsa plug out of the brass tube. draw a line across the bottom of the inner and outer
flap 1-1/2" [38mm] from the trailing edge. The line
❏ ❏ 4. Drill the rest of the holes in the wing for the should be parallel to the LE of the inner flap.
flap hinges the same way.

❏ ❏ 7. Bevel the LE of the flaps to allow for control

deflection. Test fit the flaps to the wing and make
certain the flaps can deflect 2" [50mm] as shown in
the control throws section.

❏ 8. Return to step 1 and build the left outer flap the

same way.

❏ ❏ 2. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole through the ends

❏ ❏ 5. Use a hobby knife or a rotary tool to enlarge of the inner and outer flaps at the lines you marked.
the openings of the holes to accommodate the The edge of the hole should contact the 3/32"
hinges. Test fit the hinges. [2.4mm] balsa flap skin.

❏ ❏ 6. Use the drill guide to drill the holes for the ❏ ❏ 3. Roughen the outside of two 3/32" x 1-1/4"
hinges in the inner and outer flap and enlarge the [2.4 x 32mm] brass tubes with coarse sandpaper.
opening in the holes the same way. Test fit the flaps Glue one of the tubes to the inside of the inner flap
to the wing with the hinges. Make adjustments where with medium CA. Be careful not to get any CA inside
required for a good fit. the tube.
-34-
 The Sea Fury performed several different roles
including that of fighter/interceptor, long-range
fighter bomber, long range rocket fighter, photo
reconnaissance, coastal patrol, air sea rescue,
trainer and carrier fighter.

❏ ❏ 4. Insert the other brass tube into the outer flap, ❏ ❏ 8. Once satisfied with the fit of the flaps and
but do not glue it into position. Cut the 1/16" x 2-3/4" smooth operation has been achieved, permanently
[1.6 x 70mm] wire rod to a length of 2-1/2" [64mm]. secure the brass tubes to the flaps with pieces of
Make a slight bend in the middle of the rod to match leftover 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa.
the bottom of the flaps.
You may proceed and hook up the flap servo to the BUILD THE FUSELAGE
❏ ❏ 5. Connect the flaps to each other with the wire right flap now, or go back and connect the left flaps.
rod, then join the flaps to the wing with the hinges. Frame the bottom of the fuselage
Move the flaps up and down and make sure the
brass tubes align. Make adjustments as necessary. ❏ 1. Place the bottom view of the fuselage plan over
your flat building board. Cover the plan with Great
❏ ❏ 6. When a good fit is achieved, remove the Planes Plan Protector.
flaps and glue the other brass tube to the outer flap.

❏ ❏ 9. Connect the flap servo to the flaps using the

hardware shown in the photo and on the plan (note
❏ ❏ 7. Join the flaps with the wire rod and re-test fit the direction of the flap horn on the plan). After ❏ 2. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood
them to the wing. Move the flaps up and down to be drilling 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the bottom of forward fuselage top (FFT) to both die-cut 1/8"
certain they operate smoothly. If necessary, change the inner flaps for the screws that hold the control [3.2mm] plywood mid fuselage tops (MFT). Make
the angle of the bend in the rod. If resistance horns, harden the holes and the mounting area with adjustments as necessary so the parts align with the
increases as the flaps extend, the angle in the joiner thin CA. Allow to fully harden, then sand smooth and plan. Glue the parts together while holding them to
wire is probably too great. Decrease the angle. mount the control horns. the plan with T-pins.
-35-
 ❏ 5. Glue the 1/8" x 3-15/16" x 4-1/16" [3.2 x 100 x connecting the outer punchmarks nearest the four
103.2mm] birch plywood firewall doubler to the sides of the firewall. This indicates the engine
back of the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood firewall centerline, which is offset to account for engine side
F1. From now on this assembly will be referred to as and down thrust. Center the engine mount over the
the firewall. intersection of the lines.

Skip the following step if not yet certain of the

engine you will be using and the engine mount
❏ 3. Pin the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood aft position. The holes for the engine mount blind
fuselage top (AFT) over its location on the plan. nuts may be drilled after the firewall is glued into
Connect the aft fuse top to the mid fuse top by gluing position, but will have to be drilled before
in two balsa fuse top crutches cut from two 1/8" x mounting the cowl.
1/2" x 24" [3.2 x 12.7 x 610mm] balsa sticks.

❏ 7. Use a hammer to tap four 8-32 blind nuts into

the back of the firewall in the holes you drilled. Using
care not to get any glue into the threads, glue each
blind nut to the back of the firewall with a few drops
of CA.

❏ 4. Glue a die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood fuse side

doubler (FSD) to a die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood fuse
side (FS). Glue the other fuse side doubler to the other
fuse side. Be certain to make a right and a left.

There are two engine mount positions illustrated

in this manual. The inverted position is
recommended for four-strokes so the exhaust will
come out of the cowl near the bottom of the fuse. ❏ 8. Without using any glue, join the die-cut 1/8"
The slanted position is recommended for two- [3.2mm] plywood formers F2-B, F3-B, F5-D, F6-B,
strokes so the optional Top Flite exhaust header ❏ 6. Refer to the sketch. Drill four 7/32" [5.6mm] F7-B and F8-B to the fuse sides. Everything should
will align with the optional Top Flite in-cowl holes through the punchmarks in the firewall for the “key” into place so it should be clear how it all fits
muffler. If you prefer otherwise, the engine may engine mounting configuration selected (inverted for together. (The fuse side doublers go on the inside.)
be mounted in any position as long as it is in four-stroke or slanted for two-stroke). Note: If using Note: Some of the formers in the photos may appear
alignment with the engine centerline on the an engine mount other than the one supplied with to be slightly different than the formers in your kit.
engine mount. this kit, or if mounting the engine in a position other This is because the formers in the kit have been
than the two options provided, draw the centerline slightly modified for increased rigidity.
-36-
 aft of former F12-B, then glue them into position. Cut
two additional 1/8" x 1/4" x 36" [3.2 x 6.4 x 914mm]
balsa stringers to fit from former F8-B to F12-B and
glue them into position (these stringers do not
appear in photos).

❏ 13. Glue formers F9-B through F12-B to the fuse

top. Use a builder’s square to hold the formers
❏ 9. Still without glue, join the assembly to the fuse perpendicular to the building board while gluing.
top on the building board. Join the firewall and the Note: Do not be alarmed if any of the formers are
die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood fuse bottom (FB) to slightly twisted. The formers will be put into
the assembly. alignment as the stringers are added.
❏ 16. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood former
F13 to the aft fuse top and to the 1/8" x 1/4" [3.2 x
❏ 10. Now that everything is together and in Refer to this photo for the following two steps. 6.4mm] stringers. Use a builder’s square to make
alignment, glue the firewall and the fuse bottom to certain F13 is perpendicular to the building board.
each other and to the fuse sides with 30-minute Trim the stringers even with F13.
epoxy. Glue everything else together with CA.
Refer to this photo for the following two steps.

❏ 11. Join formers F4 to the assembly and glue

them into position.

❏ 14. Cut a 1/4" x 1/4" x 36" [6.4 x 6.4 x 914mm]

balsa stringer to fit from formers F8-B to F12-B, then
glue it into position. As you do so, use a builder’s
square to set the formers perpendicular to the
building board. ❏ 17. Glue both 3/16" x 3/8" x 40" [4.8 x 9.5 x
1016mm] grooved balsa main stringers into
❏ 12. Cut a notch in former F12-B where shown to ❏ 15. Cut two 1/8" x 1/4" x 36" [3.2 x 6.4 x 914mm] formers F5-D through F13. Note that the front of the
accommodate the tail gear pushrod. balsa stringers to fit from former F7-B to 6" [152mm] stringer is even with the front of F5-D.
-37-
❏ 18. Glue both 1/8" x 3/16" x 36" [3.2 x 4.8 x Sheet the aft fuse bottom
914mm] sub stringers into the groove in the main
stringers. Use leftover 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa to make
up for the last 1" [25mm] where the sub stringers
come up short.

❏ 19. Cut a 3/16" x 36" [4.8 x 914mm] pushrod

guide tube to a length of 17-1/2" [444.5mm]. This is
the tail steering guide tube. Use coarse sandpaper
to roughen the outside of the guide tube so glue will ❏ ❏ 1. Cut a 3/32" x 3" x 36" [2.4 x 76 x 914mm]
adhere. Slide the guide tube through the holes in F7- balsa sheet to a length of 26" [660mm]. Glue the
B through F11-B as shown on the side view of the sheet to a 3/32" x 3" x 40" [2.4 x 76 x 1016mm] balsa
fuse plan and glue it into position. sheet 7" [180mm] from one end. This will be the left
fuse side sheet. ❏ 4. Sheet the other side of the fuse the same way.
Fill the gap between both sides with lightweight
sandable balsa filler. Use a hobby knife followed with
a bar sander to trim the sheeting even with the
bottom of the fuse sides.

Sheet the front fuse bottom

❏ ❏ 2. Trim the fuse side sheet to roughly fit the

fuse from the sub stringer to the middle of the 1/4" x
❏ 20. Sand the bottom of the aft end of the fuse 1/4" [6.4 x 6.4mm] stringer on the bottom of the fuse.
sides (where indicated by the arrows in the photo) Wet the outside of the sheet near the bottom with
even with formers F7-B and F8-B to accommodate water or window cleaner so it will bend around the
the sheeting that will be added later. formers and stringers.

❏ 1. Glue a die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood former

The Sea Fury was born out of the Royal Navy’s
F5B to the front of former F5D on the right side (the
requirement for a carrier-based interceptor. In
wider part of F5B goes toward the top, or toward the
April, 1943, Hawker Aircraft Ltd. began work on a
workbench.) Glue a die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood
land-based version, with a Naval conversion to
❏ ❏ 3. Trim the sheet to fit more precisely, keeping former F3D to the front of former F3B on the right
be performed by Boulton-Paul Aircraft Ltd. Early
it slightly oversize to allow for positioning. Glue the side. Cut the stringers that go into the notches of
in 1944 the RAF placed contracts for two-
sheet first to the main and sub stringers, then to the formers F3B through F5B on the right side of the
hundred planes and the Fleet Air Arm placed
formers and the rest of the stringers. Trim the sheet fuse from a 1/8" x 1/4" x 36" [3.2 x 6.4 x 914mm]
contracts for two-hundred planes.
even with formers F5B, F12B and F13. balsa stick. Glue the stringers into position.
-38-
❏ 2. Repeat the previous step for the left side of the Mount the tail gear
fuse. Cut the short, bottom stringer that connects
formers F2B with F3B from a 1/4" x 1/4" leftover
balsa stick. Glue the stringer into position. Sand the
stringers even with the formers.

❏ 3. Cut a 3/32" x 3" x 36" [2.4 x 76 x 914mm] balsa

sheet into six 6" long sheets. Make a 6" x 6" sheet by
edge-gluing two of the sheets together. Make the
front fuse sheet and the engine exhaust sheet ❏ 4. Break the tail block (with the tail gear plate
using the patterns on the fuse plan. attached) from the fuselage. Referring to the sketch,
drill 1/8" [3.2mm] holes, 1/2" deep through the
punchmarks in the tail gear plate to accommodate
❏ 1. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the the alignment posts in the nylon tail gear bracket.
punchmarks in the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood tail
gear plate (TGP). Use a few drops of medium CA to
tack-glue the tail gear plate into position on the back
of the fuse.

❏ 4. Test fit, then glue the engine exhaust sheet into

position. Note that the aft edge aligns with the middle
of former F4B.

❏ 2. Bevel one end of the 1" x 1-3/4" x 6" tail block ❏ 5. Temporarily mount the nylon tail gear bracket to
to match the angle of former F12B when positioned the tail gear plate with two #2 x 3/8" screws. Using
on the bottom of the tail gear plate. Glue the tail block the tail gear bracket as a guide, drill a 3/32" [2.4mm]
to the tail gear plate, but not to the fuse. hole through the tail gear plate and the tail block.

❏ 6. Remove the tail gear bracket from the tail gear

plate. Enlarge the hole in the tail block and the tail
gear plate with a 5/32" drill. Use a Dremel to enlarge
the opening of the hole in the tail gear plate to
accommodate the 3/32" [2.4mm] wheel collar.

❏ 7. Use coarse sandpaper to roughen the outside

❏ 5. Test fit, then glue the front fuse sheet into of the 1-5/8" nylon bearing tube so glue will adhere.
position. Sheet the other side of the fuse the same Cut the tube to a length of 5/8". Glue the tube into the
way, then sheet the bottom of the fuse over formers ❏ 3. Round the tail block to match the bottom of tail block, so one end of the tube is even with the
F2B and F3B. the fuse. bottom of the block.
-39-
 [2.4mm] wheel collar. Be certain the angle is correct Mount the wing
as shown on the plan. Tighten securely with a drop
of threadlocker. Although the fuse is only partially complete, now is a
convenient time to mount the wing.
❏ 10. Cut a 36" long pushrod to a length of 26".
Thread a nylon clevis onto the pushrod about 20 full
turns. Connect the clevis to the torque rod horn and
secure it with a silicone tube.

❏ 8. Insert the prebent tail gear wire into the tail block
through the bearing tube. Use a small drop of
threadlocker on a 4-40 set screw to permanently secure
the tail gear wire with a 3/32" [2.4mm] wheel collar.

❏ 11. Slide the pushrod through the tail gear guide

tube already glued into the fuse. Position the tail gear
plate and the tail block on the fuse. Move the
pushrod back and forth to make sure there is no ❏ 1. Trim the fuse sheeting even with the aft edge of
interference or binding. If necessary, widen the round former 5D on both sides of the fuselage.
notch in former F12B to accommodate the pushrod.
Permanently glue the tail gear plate and the tail block
to the fuse.

❏ 12. Remove the fuselage from the building board.

Fill the gap on both sides of the fuselage between
the tail block and the fuse sheeting with leftover 1/8"
[3.2mm] balsa or filler.

The first Sea Fury prototype, powered by a

Centaurus Mk.12 engine driving a four-bladed
propeller, also featuring an arresting hook and ❏ 2. Test fit the 1/4" x 1" x 2-15/16" plywood wing
fixed (non-folding) wings, flew on February 21, bolt plate between the fuse side doublers. Trim the
❏ 9. Mount the tail gear bracket to the tail gear plate 1945. The second Sea Fury prototype was ends of the wing bolt plate as necessary, then use
with the #2 x 3/8" screws. Thread a nylon torque rod powered by a Centaurus Mk.15 driving a 30-minute epoxy to glue it into position.
horn all the way onto the 4-40 x 5/8" screw. File a five-bladed propeller and was fully navalized with
small flat spot on the tail gear wire for the screw. folding wings.
❏ 3. If you haven’t yet done so, shape the leading edge
Mount the screw to the tail gear wire with a 3/32" of the wing to match the cross-section on the plans.
-40-
 ❏ 6. Use the template on the plan to make both air ❏ 8. Tape both die-cut 1/32" [.8mm] plywood
passage fairings from the 1/4" x 1-1/2" x 9" balsa forward wing fillet bases to the fuse the same way.
❏ 4. Accurately measure and mark the middle of the sheet. Glue the fairings to both sides of the fuse
leading edge and the TE spar on the bottom of the where shown. Sand the air passage fairings to match
center section of the wing. Lightly draw a centerline the fuse.
across the bottom of the wing using a straightedge to
connect the two marks.

❏ 9. Using the 1/4" [6.4mm] holes in formers F3B as

a guide, drill 1/4" [6.4mm] holes through both F3Ds.

For those who wish to do so, now is a good

opportunity to check the wing incidence. The
correct wing (and stab) incidence is built into this
❏ 5. Using the centerline on the bottom of the wing
model and is preset by the die-cut ply fuse sides
as a reference, center the wing in the fuse. Trim the
and lower stab saddles. Checking the incidences is
fuse sheeting where necessary until the LE of the ❏ 7. Note the embossed lines across both die-cut
not necessary, but some modelers prefer to do so
wing contacts the aft edge of former F3B and the 1/32" [.8mm] plywood aft wing fillet bases (FB).
anyway. A wing incidence meter (such as the Great
rest of the wing fits well. (This is most easily done Carefully, without breaking them, bend both aft wing
Planes® Accupoint™ Laser Incidence meter,
with the wing and the fuse upside-down, but is fillet bases upward at the lines. Tape the aft wing fillet
GPMR4020) is required to check the incidence.
photographed upright for illustration.) bases into position on the fuselage.
-41-
 ❏ 17. With the wing dowels in the wing, reposition
the wing on the fuse. Place weights on top of the
wing to hold it down.

❏ 10. Place the incidence meter on the same ❏ 13. Center the wing in the fuse again and place
workbench you are building the fuse on. Turn on the weights on top of it to hold it down. Using the holes
incidence meter and set it to zero. in the formers as a guide, drill 1/4" [6.4mm] holes
through the LE of the wing and through the forward
and aft dowel plates inside the wing. Hint: Use a 1/4"
[6.4mm] brass tube sharpened on the end to drill the
holes. Mark the tube or drill 3-1/2" from the end to
drill the holes the correct depth. ❏ 18. Stick a pin into the center of the tail block near
the aft end of the fuse. Tie a small loop in one end of
❏ 14. Cut both 1/4" x 3" hardwood wing dowels to a a 48" piece of non-elastic string such as K & S #801
length of 2-3/4". Round one end of both dowels, then Kevlar thread (K+SR4575). Slip the loop in the string
test fit them into the wing and fuse. Hint: If difficulty over the T-pin.
is encountered fitting the dowels into the wing or
fuse, sand them in a drill so they fit a little easier.

❏ 15. Glue the dowels into the wing (or wait until
after the model has been final-sanded and covered).
❏ 11. Lay the fuse upside-down on the workbench.
Center the wing in the fuse using the centerline you
drew on the bottom of the wing. Place weights on the
bottom of the wing to hold it down. Place the
incidence meter on one side of the wing next to the
fuse. Read the meter. It should read minus one
degree (which means that the wing has one degree
of positive incidence since the model is upside-
down). Take a reading on the other side of the wing
next to the fuse just to be certain.
❏ 19. Fold a piece of masking tape over the other
❏ 12. If necessary, carefully sand the high end of end of the string and draw an arrow on it. Slide the
both fuse sides to adjust the wing incidence. tape along the string and align the arrow with one
Reposition the wing and check the incidence. Make end of the wing as shown in the photo. Swing the
adjustments until the incidence meter reads minus ❏ 16. Mark the bottom of the wing 9/16" aft of the string over to the same position on the other end of
one degree (indicating that the wing has one degree center TE spar and 1" from the centerline where the the wing. Adjust the wing and slide the tape along
positive incidence). holes are to be drilled for the wing bolts. the string until the arrow aligns with both sides.
-42-
 Make the wing fillets
Note: The left wing fillet is shown in the photos, but
both fillets are made at the same time.

❏ 20. With the wing in alignment, drill #7 (or 13/64") ❏ 24. Cut two 1" x 1" squares from leftover 1/8"
holes through the wing and the wing bolt plate inside [3.2mm] plywood. Drill a 17/64" (or 1/4" [6.4mm])
the fuse at the marks you made. Hint: Make a drill jig by hole through the center of both squares. Place a
using a drill press to drill a perpendicular #7 (or 13/64") wing bolt through one of the squares and insert the
hole through an approximately 1-1/2" x 2" x 2-1/2" wing bolt into one of the bolt holes in the bottom of
hardwood block. This will ensure that the hole in the the wing. Cut around the square with a hobby knife. ❏ 1. With the wing bolted to the fuselage and the 1/32"
block is perpendicular to the bottom of the wing. [.8mm] plywood fillet bases taped into position, use
medium CA to glue the fillet bases to the ply fuse sides
from inside the fuse only (the fillet bases will be glued
to the fuse sheeting later). Use care not to get any glue
onto the wing. Hint: If you are concerned about
inadvertently gluing the wing to the fillet bases, first
remove the wing and cover the center section with
waxed paper, then bolt the wing back into position.

❏ 25. Remove a 1/8" [3.2mm] deep section of balsa

❏ 21. Remove the wing from the fuse. Use a 1/4-20 inside the lines you cut. Glue the square into position
tap to tap threads into the wing bolt plate. Enlarge to reinforce the bottom of the wing for the head of the
the holes in the wing only with a 17/64" (or 1/4" wing bolt. Do the same for the other wing bolt.
[6.4mm]) drill.

❏ 22. Harden the threads in the wing bolt plate by

adding a few drops of thin CA or epoxy and allowing
to fully harden. Re-tap the threads.
❏ 2. Turn the model upside-down. Holding the fillet
❏ 23. Test mount the wing to the fuse with the 1/4- base to the top of the wing, use medium CA to glue
20 x 2" nylon wing bolts. the aft end of the fillet base to the fuse.
-43-
❏ 3. Use a ballpoint pen to label the die-cut 1/16"
[1.6mm] balsa fillet braces (1 through 6) as on the
die pages and as in the photo. Note that fillet braces
3 and 6 appear to be identical, but fillet 6 is slightly
smaller than fillet 3. ❏ 6. Wet the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa wing fillet
sheet (WF) with water or window cleaner. Carefully
bend the sheet as the water works in.

❏ 8. Fill most of the space in front of the fillet sheet

between the fuse and the fillet base with leftover
❏ 4. Test fit and glue the fillet braces to the fuse and balsa. Use lightweight balsa filler to complete the job
the wing fillet base. The fillets will be correctly blending the fillet base, the fillet sheet and the
spaced when they fit the fuse and the fillet base well, fuse together.
and when the outer tips of the fillet bases are
approximately 1/8" [3.2mm] from the edge of the
wing fillet.

❏ 7. Test fit the wing fillet sheet to the fuse and the
wing fillet base. Trim the sheet as necessary for a
❏ 5. If you haven’t already done so, remove the wing good fit. By the time the sheet has been trimmed to
and cover the top of the center section with waxed fit, it should be dry enough to glue into position. Glue
paper. Bolt the wing back to the fuse. the wing fillet sheet into position.
-44-
 Frame the top of the fuselage ❏ 3. Test fit the elevator and rudder servos into the
forward fuse top. Enlarge the openings for the servos
Refer to this photo for the following two steps. if necessary.

❏ 9. Turn the model upside-down in the building

cradle. Glue leftover 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa to the
bottom of the ply wing fillet base behind the wing. ❏ 1. Glue formers F6A through F12A and both die-cut
Leave a 1/16" [1.6mm] gap between the trailing edge 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood lower stab saddles (LSS) to the
of the wing and the sheeting. Use balsa filler to fuse. Note: There are two F6A formers in this kit. The ❏ 4. Cut four 1/4" x 1-1/4" [6.4 x 32mm] strips from
smoothly blend the bottom of the fillet to the fuse. aft F6A (that is to be glued into position in this step) has leftover 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood and glue them to the
five notches–two for 1/4" x 1/8" stringers and three for top of the forward fuse top for the servo screws.
1/4" x 1/4" [6.4 x 6.4mm] stringers.
❏ 5. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes for mounting the
rudder and elevator servos. Add a few drops of thin
CA to each hole and allow to harden. Mount the
servos in the fuse with the screws that came with the
servos. Using a servo horn drill (HCAR0698) or a
hobby knife, enlarge the holes in the servo arm to
accommodate the pushrod wires.

❏ 6. Cut two 3/16" x 36" [4.8 x 914mm] pushrod

guide tubes to a length of 26" [660mm]. Roughen the
outside of the tubes with coarse sandpaper so glue
will adhere. Insert the guide tubes into the holes in
With the end of the Second World War, the RAF
both sides of the formers. The fronts of the guide
canceled all production contracts for the Sea
tubes should extend approximately 1/4" [6.4mm] in
Fury, deciding to concentrate all of its efforts on
❏ 2. Cut two 1/8" x 1/4" x 36" [3.2 x 6.4 x 914mm] balsa front of former 7B. Glue the guide tubes to all the
jet fighters. The Royal Navy reduced its order to
stringers and two 1/4" x 1/4" x 36" [6.4 x 6.4 x 914mm] formers except former F12.
100 Sea Furies and canceled the Boulton-Paul
balsa stringers to the correct length, then glue them into
contract entirely. ❏ 7. Thread a nylon clevis about twenty turns onto
the notches of the formers as shown in the photo and
on the plan (the top, middle 1/4" x 1/4" [6.4 x 6.4mm] a .074" x 36" [1.9 x 914mm] pushrod. Connect the
stringer will be glued into position later). The two 1/8" x clevis to the second-from-the-bottom hole of a large
1/4" [3.2 x 6.4mm] stringers extend from former F6A to control horn. Insert the pushrod into the rudder guide
the front of the lower stab saddles. The two 1/4" x 1/4" tube in the left side of the model while fitting a 5/32"
[6.4 x 6.4mm] stringers extend former F6A to 3/8" [4mm] wheel collar with a 6-32 set screw over the
[9.5mm] aft of former F12A. rudder pushrod and the tail wheel steering pushrod.
-45-
 enough for the FasLink. Take the servo arm off the ❏ 14. Loosen the set screw in the wheel collar that
rudder servo and connect it to the pushrod with a joins the rudder and tail steering pushrod. Unscrew the
FasLink. Slide the pushrod back into the fuse and clevis from the aft end of the rudder pushrod. Slide the
connect the servo arm to the servo. Center the servo pushrod forward through the hole in former 5D.
and the tail gear. Temporarily tighten the set screw in
the wheel collar locking the rudder and tail steering
pushrod together.

❏ 11. Make the pushrod for the elevator the same way.

❏ 8. Temporarily place the stab with elevators and

the fin with rudder on the fuse. Rest the control horn
on the rudder.

❏ 12. Use a 3/32" x 3" x 40" [2.4 x 76 x 1016mm] balsa

sheet and a 3/32" x 3" x 36" [2.4 x 76 x 914mm] balsa
sheet to make a skin to sheet the left side of the fuse
❏ 9. Center the rudder. Use a fine point felt-tip pen from the main stringer up to the middle of the first 1/4"
to mark the pushrod where it passes the hole in the x 1/4" [6.4mm x 6.4mm] stringer. Save the remainder of
servo arm. the 36" [914mm] sheet for the other side. ❏ 15. Mix a small amount of 30-minute epoxy and
microballoons. Apply the mixture around the rudder
guide tube where it will exit the slot in the fuse skin.
Position the fuse skin on the fuse. Glue the skin to
the main stringer only. Wet fuse skin with water or
spray window cleaner, then glue it to the rest of the
stringers and formers. Make sure the slot in the skin
around the guide tube is packed with epoxy and
microballoons, so the slot will be filled when the
guide tube is sanded flush with the fuse skin.

❏ 16. Make a fuse skin for the other side the same
❏ 10. Unscrew the clevis from the aft end of the way using the remainder of the 3/32" x 3" x 36" [2.4
pushrod. Pull the pushrod partway out of the fuse x 76 x 914mm] balsa sheet and an additional 3/32" x
from the front. Bend the pushrod at the mark, then ❏ 13. Cut a slot in the aft end of the fuse skin to 3" x 40" [2.4 x 76 x 1016mm] balsa sheet. Glue the
cut off the excess wire, making certain you leave accommodate the rudder guide tube. fuse skin to the right side of the fuse.
-46-
 ❏ 19. Glue the second F6A former and formers F5A, ❏ 23. Sheet the same section on the right side of
F5C, F3A and F2A into position on the fuse top. the fuse the same way.

❏ 17. After the epoxy from the previous step has

hardened, sand the guide tube and excess epoxy
flush with the fuse sheeting. Sand the sub stringer
even with the fuse sheeting. ❏ 20. Make the stringers that extend from former F6A
to F2A from leftover 1/4" x 1/4" [6.4 x 6.4mm] balsa
sticks and leftover 1/8" x 1/4" [3.2 x 6.4mm] balsa sticks.
Glue the stringers into position. Note that former F3A ❏ 24. Use the remainder of the 3/32" x 6" x 36" [2.4
has no notch for the bottom 1/8" x 1/4" [3.2 x 6.4mm] x 152 x 914mm] balsa sheet to sheet the left side,
stringer, so the stringer butts-up to it. then the right side of the remaining portion of the
fuse from former F5C forward.
❏ 21. The same as the wing skins, make the last
skin for sheeting the front of the fuse by gluing
together two 3/32" x 3" x 36" [2.4 x 76 x 914mm]
balsa sheets to make a 3/32" x 6" x 36" [2.4 x 152 x
914mm] balsa sheet.

❏ 25. Use masking tape to protect the sheeting,

❏ 18. Trim the front of the fuse skins even with the then sand the aft edge of the sheeting over former
fuselage top and former F6A. Trim the back of the ❏ 22. Sheet the left side of the fuse between F5C. (We made a handy sanding tool from a piece of
fuse skins even with the lower stab saddles and the formers F6A and F5A using a portion of the balsa 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood and applied Great Planes
end of the fuse. sheet prepared in the previous step. 120-grit adhesive back sandpaper to it.)
-47-
 Join the stab to the fuse ❏ 5. If you wish to check the stab incidence with an
incidence meter, now is the time to do so. Make
❏ 1. Final sand the aft end of the fuse, as it is easier adjustments if necessary.
to do so now before the stab is glued into position.
❏ 6. Once the stab alignment has been confirmed, glue
the stab into position with 30-minute epoxy. For
additional strength, and to keep the epoxy from running
out of the glue joint, add a small amount of Great Planes
milled glass fibers to the epoxy. Apply epoxy to both the
ply lower stab saddles and to the stab, then position the
stab on the fuse. Place weight on top of the stab to hold
it down. From behind the fuse, view the glue joint
between the lower stab saddles and the bottom of the
❏ 26. Fill the open spaces on the top and bottom of stab inside the fuse to make sure there is a small bead
the exhaust outlet with leftover 1/16" [1.6mm] of epoxy. If necessary, use a piece of music wire to apply
balsa sheeting. additional epoxy to the area inside the fuse. Wipe away
excess epoxy outside the fuse before it hardens.
❏ 27. Apply lightweight balsa filler to the fuse where Confirm stab alignment one last time and do not disturb
needed and allow to dry. Sand the fuse blending the ❏ 2. If you haven’t done so already, carefully and the model until the epoxy has hardened.
individually sheeted sections together and accurately trim the fuse sheeting even with the ply
smoothing the balsa filler. lower stab saddles.

❏ 3. Bolt the wing to the fuselage. Place the model

upright in your building cradle. Position the stab on the
Another version of the Sea Fury, the Mk.11, was stab saddles in the fuse and place a weight on top of
a fighter-bomber capable of carrying a the stab to hold it down. Stand about eight feet behind
combination of 1000-pound bombs, rockets, drop the model and view the alignment of the wing and stab.
tanks and napalm tanks. The arresting hook was If necessary, carefully trim the “high” ply stab saddle
made longer, and a provision was made for the until the stab is parallel with the wing. Use care while
addition of rocket-assisted take-off. In seven trimming so as not to change the stab incidence.
years, 615 Sea Fury Mk. 11s were delivered to
❏ 4. Once the stab is parallel with the wing, use the
the Royal Navy, eventually becoming the Fleet
pin-and-string technique to align the stab the same
Air Arm’s principal single seat fighter until the
as was done with the wing (making sure the stab is
introduction of the Sea Hawk in 1953.
centered side-to-side in the fuse).
-48-
Join the fin to the fuse stab and hold it in position with masking tape, T-pins
or other suitable method until the epoxy hardens. Be
certain the fin TE is centered on the aft end of the
fuse and the fin LE is centered between the front of
the stab saddles. Before the epoxy hardens, hold a
square to the centerline on the fin TE to see if it is
perpendicular to the centerline on the TE of the stab.
If necessary, use masking tape to pull the fin to one
side or the other until the fin is vertical.

❏ 4. Glue the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood fin

fillet to the center of the fin and the fuse. Cover both
❏ 1. Cut a round notch in the fin trailing edge to sides of the fin fillet with leftover 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa,
accommodate the elevator joiner wire. Test fit the fin then add lightweight balsa filler to blend the fin fillet
to the stab and fuse with the joiner wire. Make to the fuse and fin. Sand when dry.
adjustments to the fit of the fin to the stab and the
fuse for a good fit. Test fit the elevators to the stab
with the joiner wire. Move the elevators up and down
to make sure the notch in the fin is large enough to
allow full movement of the elevators.

❏ 5. Temporarily join the rudder to the fin with the

hinges. Sand the bottom of the fin TE and the rudder
to match the shape of the bottom of the fuselage.
Round the bottom of the rudder.

NOW does it look like a Stuka? No? Good, because

it’s a Sea Fury!
❏ 2. Once a good fit between the fin and stab has
been achieved, permanently glue the fin to the stab ❏ 3. Trim a 1/4" x 1/4" x 36" [6.4 x 6.4 x 914mm] balsa
and fuse with 30-minute epoxy (don’t forget to stick to fit between former F6A and the fin LE. Glue the
position the elevator joiner!). The same as when stick into position. Sheet one side, then the other of the
gluing the stab to the fuse, add a small amount of remaining open section on the top of the fuse with a
milled glass fibers to the epoxy. Join the fin to the 3/32" x 3" x 36" [2.4 x 76 x 914mm] balsa sheet.
-49-
Fit the air intakes

❏ 1. If you haven’t done so already, final-sand the

wing with progressively finer grits of sandpaper
ending with 400 or 600-grit.

❏ 3. Trim and fit the right air intake for the carb to
the right side of the fuse and wing and tape it into
position the same way.
❏ 7. Make two wing fillet ribs from leftover 1/8"
❏ 4. Once satisfied with the fit of the right and left [3.2mm] balsa that fit under the edges of the air
air intakes, carefully glue them to the wing only with intakes. Glue the fillet ribs and the fillet former into
thin CA. position. Note that the middle of the fillet ribs aligns
with the edges of the air intakes.

❏ 5. Cut a piece of leftover 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa to fit

between both air intakes on the front of the wing.
Position the piece of balsa between the intakes, then
use a ballpoint pen to draw the outline of the bottom
of the fuse onto the piece. This will be the wing
fillet former.

❏ 2. Mount the wing to the fuselage. Cut the molded ❏ 6. Cut the wing fillet former along the line, then
ABS plastic left air intake for the carb/oil cooler test fit it to the wing and fuse. Trim the wing fillet
along the cutlines. Test fit the intake to the left side of former until it is slightly smaller than the bottom of ❏ 8. Cut out, then trim the ABS plastic fillet sheet to
the fuse and wing. Trim as necessary for a good fit. the fuse sheeting to accommodate the ABS filler fit between the fuse and the air intakes. Glue the fillet
Temporarily tape the intake to the wing. sheet that will be glued into position later. sheet to the wing only.
-50-
Mount the engine Mount the cowl
Refer to this photo to mount the engine. 1. Cut six 1" [25mm] long cowl mounting blocks
from the 5/8" x 5/8" x 9" [15.9 x 15.9 x 229mm]
basswood stick. Hold one of the blocks to the fuse
against former F2, so one edge is just above the
fuse sheeting. Use a ballpoint pen to draw the outline
of the fuse onto the block. Sand the block to match
the line. Mark and round the rest of the cowl ❏ 4. Reposition the cowl on the fuse. Place the back
mounting blocks the same way. (The cowl mounting plate of the spinner on the engine. Viewing the model
blocks and muffler can be seen in following photos.) from the front center the cowl on the back plate. Note
where the aft edge of the cowl requires trimming for
a good fit to the fuse. Hint: roughen the aft inch or so
of the outside of the cowl with medium-grit
sandpaper. Use a pencil to mark the “high spots” on
the cowl where trimming is required.

❏ 5. Use a bar sander with 80-grit sandpaper to trim

❏ 1. Mount the engine mount to the firewall with four the aft edge of the cowl where required. Reposition
8-32 x 1" [25.4mm] socket-head cap screws and four the cowl on the fuse and mark and trim as necessary
#8 lock washers and flat washers. Do not tighten the ❏ 2. Glue the cowl mounting blocks to the fuse with until a good fit is achieved.
screws all the way. Fit the engine to the mount. the outer edges inset approximately 3/32" [2.4mm]
Adjust the spacing of the engine mount halves to below the fuse sheeting to accommodate the cowl. If
accommodate the engine and tighten the screws. using a two-stroke engine with a Top Flite In-Cowl
muffler, test fit the muffler and position the bottom,
center cowl mounting block so it will not interfere with
❏ 2. Fit the back plate of the spinner on the engine. the muffler.
Use small clamps to temporarily hold the engine to
the mount so the back plate of the spinner is 5-3/4"
[146mm] from the firewall.

❏ 3. Use a Great Planes Dead Center™ engine

mount hole locator (GPMR8139) or your own
method to mark the location of the engine mounting
bolt holes on the engine mount.

❏ 4. Remove the engine from the mount. Drill #29

holes at the marks and use an 8-32 tap to tap ❏ 6. Securely tape the cowl to the fuse. Drill a 1/16"
threads into the holes. ❏ 3. Position the cowl on the fuse. Mark the center [1.6mm] hole through the cowl into one of the cowl
of the cowl mounting blocks onto the cowl. Use mounting blocks 7/16" [11mm] from the aft edge of the
epoxy to glue the six die-cut 1/32" [.8mm] plywood cowl. Use a Dremel #178 cutting bit or something
❏ 5. Mount the engine to the mount with four 8-32 x 1" cowl reinforcements inside the cowl centered on similar to enlarge the opening of the hole for the head of
[25.4mm] socket-head cap screws and #8 lock washers. the marks. a #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] flat head screw. Install the screw.
-51-
❏ 7. Drill the remaining five holes and enlarge the
openings and install the screws.

❏ 8. Where necessary, sand the fuse sheeting even

with the cowl. Remove the cowl and harden the holes
in the cowl mounting blocks with thin CA. Allow to
fully harden before mounting the cowl.

❏ 2. Trim the cowl to accommodate the muffler. A ❏ 4. Cut holes in the cowl for the fuel filler valve,
Dremel sanding drum works well for this. needle valve, glow plug igniter, etc. This can be done
by making templates. First cut a hole in a sheet of
paper and tape it to the fuse with the hole aligned
over the fuel filler valve.

Finish the engine compartment

We’re just about done with the front end of the fuse and
the cowl, but first the muffler, fuel filler, etc. must be
mounted and accompanying holes cut into the cowl.

❏ 5. Mount the cowl and transfer the hole in the

template to the cowl.

❏ 3. Make a mount for the fuel filler valve from a

Great Planes Handy Mounts set (GPMQ6000), or
from leftover 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood. Mount the fuel
❏ 1. If using a two-stroke engine with a Top Flite in- filler valve (GPMQ4160, not included) to the mount.
cowl muffler, mount the header to the engine and Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the mount in a location
connect it to the muffler with a long silicone that will be accessible outside the fuse. Some
connector. Aerotrend 3/4" [19mm] inside diameter modelers prefer to mount the fuel filler valve in an
silicone tubing was used on this model (AERG2220). inconspicuous location such as near the bottom of ❏ 6. Cut the hole in the cowl. Mount the cowl to
Mount the muffler to former F2 using the screws that the fuse, but the filler valve can be difficult to reach check the alignment of the hole over the fuel filler
came with the muffler. in this location. valve. Make adjustments where necessary.
-52-
❏ 7. Cut the rest of the holes in the cowl the same way. Complete radio installation

❏ R1. If installing retracts, connect about 12" [300mm]

of air line to the air tank. Glue the tank into position
❏ 8. Assemble the fuel tank. Study the following where shown on the plan with RTV silicone or epoxy.
photos and examine your particular engine mounting Hint: If using epoxy, roughen the tank where it will
setup to determine the positioning of the fuel tank, contact the formers with coarse sandpaper.
servo tray and throttle pushrod. Take a few moments
to plan the installation. Be certain the throttle
pushrod and fuel tank will not interfere with each
other. The servo tray can be used to hold the tank in
position. If you intend to duplicate the setup depicted
in this manual, most of the work has already been ❏ 11. Glue both of the larger pieces of the die-cut 1/8"
done for you! [3.2mm] plywood engine baffle (EB) together. Test fit
the engine baffle inside the cowl. Rotate the baffle so
the opening will be centered over the head of the
engine. Trim the baffle as necessary so it can be
positioned inside the cowl halfway over the engine as ❏ 2. Test fit the throttle servo and retract air valve
❏ 9. Drill a 3/16" [4.8mm] hole through the firewall shown on the plan. (Although the cowl in the photos is servo (if using retracts) in the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]
for the throttle pushrod guide tube. Cut a piece of already painted, yours should not yet be). plywood servo tray (ST). If necessary, enlarge the
3/16" [4.8mm] guide tube leftover from the elevator openings in the tray to accommodate the servos.
or rudder to a length of 2" [50mm]. Roughen the ❏ 12. Use medium CA to tack-glue the baffle into Glue strips of leftover 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood to one
outside so glue will adhere, then insert the guide position. Test fit the cowl to the fuse and trim the side of the tray to reinforce the servo mounting
tube into the hole you drilled in the firewall. baffle as necessary to clear the engine. screws. Mount the servos to the servo tray with the
screws that came with the servos.

❏ 13. Trim the remaining two smaller portions of the

engine baffle as necessary to fit close to the cylinder ❏ 3. Wrap the fuel tank with 1/2" [13mm] R/C foam
and head of the engine. Glue them into position. rubber. Place the fuel tank and the servo tray in the
❏ 10. Bend the 18" [457mm] wire pushrod as fuse. Hold the servo tray up to the rear of the tank to
required to align with the arm on the carburetor. ❏ 14. Use 30-minute epoxy and microballoons to determine exactly how the tray and the tank will be
Temporarily connect the pushrod to the carb with a make a small fillet all the way around both sides of positioned. The servo tray may be positioned against
nylon ball link and a 0-80 ball and 0-80 nut. the baffle securely gluing it to the inside of the cowl. the aft edge of the tank to hold it in position.
-53-
 to the correct length, then connect it to the throttle Cut the cockpit opening
servo with a screw-lock connector, a retainer and a
4-40 x 1/8" [3.2mm] screw. ❏ 1. Trim the canopy along the molded-in cutlines.
True the edges with a bar sander and 80-grit
❏ 7. Drill 1/4" [6.4mm] holes through the firewall for sandpaper. Smooth the edges of the canopy with
the fuel lines. Temporarily connect the fuel tank to the 320 or 400-grit sandpaper. Wash the canopy in
fuel filler valve and the pressure fitting on the muffler. soapy water, then rinse and dry.
When it’s time to permanently mount the tank, glue a
piece of leftover balsa to the ply fuse sides across ❏ 2. Position the canopy on the fuse and hold it in
the bottom of the tank to securely hold it in position place with a rubber band. Position the front of the
(this may be done after the model has been covered canopy over the seam in the fuse sheeting at former F6
and the firewall and fuel tank mounting area has as shown in the following photo. View the canopy from
been fuelproofed). the top, sides and front to make certain it is centered.
❏ 4. Once the location of the servo tray has been
determined, mark the ply fuse sides where the servo While working on the servos inside the fuse, now is
tray mounting rails are to be positioned. Be certain not a good time to mount the elevator and rudder
to position the servo tray too low causing the air valve control horns.
to contact the top of the wing. Cut the servo tray
mounting rails from the 1/4" x 1/4" x 18" [6.4 x 6.4 x
457mm] basswood stick and glue them into position.

❏ R5. If installing retracts, mount the retract air

valve using the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood air
valve mount. Connect the air valve servo to the air
valve using a pushrod and hardware of your
preference (not included). As can be seen in ❏ 3. Use a ballpoint pen to mark the outline of the
following photos, a ball link was used on the air valve canopy onto the fuselage.
and a Z-bend was used on the servo arm.

❏ 8. Temporarily connect a nylon clevis to a large

control horn and screw it onto the elevator pushrod.
Mount the control horn to the elevator with #2 x 3/8"
[9.5mm] screws the same as was done on the flaps
and ailerons (don’t forget to harden the mounting
area and screw holes with thin CA first).

❏ 4. Remove the canopy. From inside the fuselage,

❏ 9. Temporarily connect the rudder pushrod to the stick a T-pin through the sheeting against the front
rudder the same way. Note: The battery pack and edge of former F7 on both sides of the fuse. Wrap a
❏ 6. Mount the servo tray to the rails with four #2 x receiver will be mounted and the rudder and tail piece of tape around the fuse top connecting the T-
3/8" [9.5mm] screws (don’t forget to harden the holes steering pushrods will be linked after the model has pins. With a ballpoint pen draw a line along the edge
in the rails with thin CA first). Cut the throttle pushrod been covered. of the tape that is contacting the pins.
-54-
 a diameter of 21.6" [550mm]. Of course, this is for ❏ 3. If necessary, shape the propellers to match the
non-flying display only. Note: The original Sea Fury propellers in your scale documentation. The tips of
had a five-blade clockwise rotating prop, but some the blades used on this model were rounded and the
restored racing versions use four-blade counter- curvature along the trailing edge was decreased.
clockwise rotating props.
❏ 4. One at a time, use medium CA to glue the blades
together. CA is recommended so you can hold blades
flat on the workbench until the glue hardens.

❏ 5. Cut the sheeting along the line over F7 and

3/16" [4.8mm] inside the outline of the canopy. True
the edges of the opening with a hobby knife followed
by sanding.

❏ 6. Paint the inside of the cockpit before the model

is covered. Otherwise, the paint may soak through
the sheeting and contact the back of the covering
making marks which may be seen from the outside. ❏ 1. Draw a centerline down the front of one of the
If installing the Top Flite scale cockpit, test fit it at this propellers. Place the display prop angle template ❏ 5. Use epoxy to glue a 2" [50mm] disc made from
time referring to the instructions included with it. (found on back cover) on one of the propellers. Align 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood to the front of the blades to
the centerline on the template with the centerline on reinforce the glue joints.
the prop. Mark the prop along the template where it
is to be cut. Mark the other end of the prop and two ❏ 6. Enlarge the mounting hole in the prop to
more propellers the same way. accommodate the crank shaft on the engine. Test fit
the propeller to the engine.

In 1961 Cuban-piloted Sea Furies were in action

against the CIA-sponsored Bay of Pigs invasion.

Scale display propeller

There are several ways to make a display prop, but

the method shown in this manual uses three Top ❏ 7. Cut the spinner to accommodate the propellers. A
Flite 20" [510mm] wood propellers (though 22" Dremel tool with a carbide cutter was used on the
[560mm] props would be closer to scale). ❏ 2. Cut the propellers at the lines you marked. plastic C.B. spinner shown. The spinner in the photo
There are now six propeller blades, five of which will was originally black, and is shown in the photo with a
The full-size Sea Fury has a propeller diameter of be used to make the static display prop. Test fit the coat of Lustrekote white primer. The propeller and
153" [3,886mm]. At 1/7th scale (1:7.07 to be more propellers to see how they fit. Make adjustments spinner are now ready for finishing and painting to
precise), a scale propeller for this model would have where necessary. match your trim scheme.
-55-
 FINISHING white MonoKote. If painting the model instead of
using iron-on film, the balsa sheeting must first be
Final preparations sealed–typically by covering the structure with light-
weight glass cloth and polyester or epoxy resin.
At this point all the major airframe construction There are many products in the hobby industry
should be completed. If you plan to add scale details specially developed for this purpose. Glass cloth and
not featured in the manual, consider whether to add resin is the most durable and long-lasting way to
them before or after the model has been covered. finish a balsa model, though it is also the most time
consuming and has the potential to add much weight
❏ 1. If you haven’t already done so, remove all if not done correctly.
components from the plane that will interfere with
sanding, covering and painting such as the engine, If you prefer not to duplicate the trim scheme on the
pushrods, landing gear etc. Disconnect the clevises kit box, design your own trim scheme or follow your
from the elevator and rudder. Slide the pushrods documentation photos. ❏ 2. Cover the most difficult parts first starting with
back into the guide tubes so they won’t be sticking the fuse. Use a trim seal tool to iron 1/4" [6.4mm]
out of the fuse when final-sanding and covering. The following instructions provide details on how to wide strips of covering where the fin and stab join.
finish the Sea Fury like the model on the kit box Cut the covering where necessary so it can go
❏ 2. Inspect all surfaces for uneven glue joints and cover using MonoKote film and LustreKote paint. around the leading edge.
seams that require filler. Apply filler where needed.
Many small dents or scratches in balsa can be
repaired by moistening the area with water and
allowing to dry. This will swell the wood so it can be
sanded smooth when dry.
Cover the model
❏ 3. Final sand the entire model with progressively
finer grits of sandpaper, finishing with 400-grit. Don’t Warning: Never cut the covering on critical
press down too hard while sanding over sheeted areas structural areas of the model such as the stab
(which is pretty much the whole model!). This can sheeting, fin sheeting and wing sheeting—
cause thin spots in the sheeting over ribs and formers. especially near the fuse where the stresses can
It’s also helpful to use fresh, new sandpaper. be high. Modelers who cut the covering on the
model tend to cut into the sheeting, weakening it.
Occasionally, it may be necessary to make a
Trim scheme small cut in the covering here and there. This is
acceptable as long as the cut is small and is not
❏ 3. Cover both sides of the fin overlapping the 1/4"
The Sea Fury on the kit box was inspired by a Sea [6.4mm] strips at the base. The fin fillet is covered
over sheeting on a critical area. Cuts that go
Fury used for pylon racing. Although it is a racing separately in multiple pieces of gray, then painted
across the grain weaken the balsa more than
trim scheme, it is also representative of a wartime blue later.
cuts that go with the grain.
trim scheme. The model was covered in Top Flite
MonoKote dove gray and insignia blue. The wing
fillets and the top of the fuse aft of the invasion ❏ 1. Use a dust brush, compressed air or a Top Flite ❏ 4. Cover the bottom, then the top of both sides of
stripes were covered in dove gray, then painted with Tack Cloth to remove all balsa dust from the model. the stab.
Top Flite LustreKote insignia blue. All the plastic Thoroughly clean your work area, removing any
parts (except for the canopy) and the cowl were balsa dust or particles that could get underneath the ❏ 5. If the trim scheme you have selected features
painted with LustreKote as well. The invasion stripes covering. Get out your covering tools and “gear up” invasion stripes, use your own method or the Hot Tip
on the wing and fuse were made from black and your work shop for covering. that follows to make invasion stripes from MonoKote.
-56-
 HOW TO MAKE INVASION STRIPES

A. Mark the location of each invasion stripe along

the side stringer on both sides of the fuse. Take
accurate measurements to make certain both sides F. Remove the covering from the fuse. Cut out the
of each stripe will align. The stripes on the prototype white invasion stripes along the lines. Wipe away
are 1-1/8" [27mm] wide (which may be slightly wider residual ink with a tissue dampened with alcohol.
than scale, but the wider the stripes, the less
noticeable inconsistencies will be). G. Make the black stripes the same way.
D. Using the lines you drew as a guide, mark the
B. Referring to the following photo, make a guide by invasion stripes by wrapping strips of 1/8"
drawing a line down the center of an approximately [3.2mm] flexible masking tape around the
6" x 4" [150 x 100mm] sheet of heavy paper or fuselage. Be patient and view the fuselage from
cardstock. Accurately cut one end of the cardstock all directions to make sure each line is true and
so it is straight and perpendicular to the line. parallel with the next. Lift and reposition the tape
as necessary.

H. Test fit the stripes to the fuse. Trim imperfections

from the edges of each stripe where necessary. Hint:
Use a straightedge and a sharp #11 blade to trim the
front edge of the stripes, and something with a
curved edge (such as a french curve) to trim the aft
edge of the stripes.

C. Hold the guide on the fuse with the squared-up

edge at one of the marks you made on the side
stringer. Center the line on the guide over the side
stringer. Use a ballpoint pen to lightly draw a line E. Tightly tape a piece of white MonoKote around
along the end of the guide directly onto the fuse the fuselage over the tape lines. Using the tape
sheeting approximately 1-1/2" [38mm] above and under the covering as a guide, draw the white
below the stringer. This line will serve as a starting invasion stripes directly onto the covering with a
point for the invasion stripes. Draw similar lines at the ballpoint pen. Remember to draw on the outer
remaining marks made on the side stringer on both edges of the tape so the black stripes will overlap
sides of the fuse. the white stripes by 1/8" [3.2mm]. I. Iron the invasion stripes into position.

-57-
 if doing a military trim scheme). The hook was
carved from basswood, then glued into a 3/16"
[4.8mm] aluminum tube. The other end of the tube
was glued to a pinned hinge (the same kind of hinge
used to hinge the flaps). Drill a hole in the end of the
fuse to accommodate the hinge. The rest of the
bracketry was made from a 2-56 screw and nut and
parts of a nylon Faslink. For security and durability, a
small pin was used to secure the arresting hook to
the rudder after the model was covered and the hook
was painted (though no such pin exists on the
real plane).

❏ 6. Cover the protruding portions of former F5B with ❏ 8. Cover the wing beginning with the invasion
flat black or black MonoKote. Also cover the top portion stripes. For simplicity, straight invasion stripes may Painting
of the air passage fairings as shown in the photo. be cut on the workbench using a straightedge and a
hobby knife. Cover the rest of the bottom of the wing With the exception of the canopy frame, all of the
❏ 7. Cover the remainder of the fuse in the following with dove gray followed by the top of the wing with parts on the model that were painted were painted
suggested order: insignia blue. It’s easiest to cover each panel (center, with Top Flite LustreKote (see instructions for
Bottom left outer, right outer) separately. Before applying the painting the canopy later in the manual). For small
Wing fillets covering to the center section, first cut the covering parts where light coats of paint are required (such as
Fuse sides aft of F5B to accurately fit up to the molded ABS air intakes. the air intakes already glued to the wing and the
The exhaust outlet (use chrome MonoKote - When you get to the trailing edge, wrap the covering machine gun blisters), painting with an airbrush is
see preceding photo) around the bottom and seal it inside the top skin as desired. Though LustreKote is available only in spray
Fuse sides forward of F5B shown in the photo. cans, there is a way to apply LustreKote with an
Top airbrush. Here’s how:
Elevators and rudder ❏ 9. Cover the ailerons and flaps.

Note: The dove gray covering was applied first,

followed by the insignia blue top. Do not attempt to Arresting hook
cover large areas of the fuse with one piece. Use as
many pieces as necessary to eliminate wrinkles and
make the job easier–seams are preferable to wrinkles!

❏ 1. Spray the paint through a tube into a cup.

Though the trim scheme featured on the kit box Spraying the paint through a tube keeps most of it
model is of a racing plane that doesn’t have an from becoming airborne. Allow the paint to stabilize
arresting hook, we made one anyway (for illustration for about an hour before transferring it to the airbrush
purposes should you decide to make one–especially jar. Stir thoroughly.
-58-
❏ 2. Thin as necessary. K & B thinner or Midwest ❏ 9. Cut out the machine gun blisters, then paint to
Aero Gloss thinner for fuel proof dope may be used. match the trim scheme. To mount the blisters to the
Other thinners may work, but should be tested for wing, hold each one in position and draw a line
compatibility. Now the LustreKote is ready to spray around it directly onto the wing using a ballpoint pen.
through the airbrush. Poke several pinholes in the covering just inside the
lines you marked. Wipe away ink from the pen with a
tissue dampened with alcohol. Carefully glue the
blisters into position with a small amount of thin or
medium CA.

❏ 6. To paint the stripes on the spinner, use blocks

of wood to prop up a pencil to the correct height. Turn
the spinner around the pencil to mark the guidelines
for the masking tape. Mask the lines, then paint.

According to last-known records, of the 866 units

built, there are currently twenty-two Sea Furies
still flying today.
❏ 3. Mask the wing, then paint the air intakes. This
will take three steps starting with primer, followed by
the gray, then blue. Paint the canopy

Do not paint the canopy with LustreKote. Over time,

LustreKote will curl the plastic. Use a paint
compatible with butyrate such as Midwest Formula U
(#20140 Insignia Blue was used on the prototype) or
❏ 7. Use epoxy or fuelproof paint to coat the engine Chevron Insignia Blue.
compartment area and the engine baffle. Flat black
was used on the prototype.

❏ 4. Paint the underside of the top wing sheeting in the

flap area gray. Airbrushing is also recommended for this
as the paint can be applied in light coats for even,
uniform coverage in all the “nooks” and “crannies.”

❏ 5. Paint the cowl with primer, followed by gray, ❏ 1. Apply masking tape over one of the front windows.
then blue. After the paint has dried, wet-sand the ❏ 8. For simplicity, the top of the fuse aft of the Using the framework as a guide, mark the edges of the
entire cowl, then apply a coat of crystal clear to make invasion stripes and the wing fillets may be painted window with a pencil while simultaneously pressing the
it just as smooth and shiny as the model on the box. insignia blue directly over the gray MonoKote. tape down into the corners.
-59-
 FINAL ASSEMBLY Join the control surfaces

Mount the canopy

❏ 1. If not already done, install the cockpit kit (if

you’ve built one) following the instructions that came
with it. Install the pilot.

❏ 1. Start with the stab and elevators. Remove a

small strip of covering from each hinge slot.

❏ 2. Use a hobby knife with a #11 blade to lightly cut

along the pencil lines. Peel the excess tape from
the canopy.

DRILL A 3/32" HOLE

❏ 2. Position the canopy on the fuse. Use a ballpoint 1/2" DEEP, IN CENTER
❏ 3. Mask the rest of the canopy the same way. pen to trace its outline onto the covering. OF HINGE SLOT

❏ 2. This step is not required if a Great Planes Slot

Machine was used to cut the hinge slots. If the hinge
slots were cut with a #11 hobby blade, drill a 3/32"
[2.4mm] hole 1/2" [13mm] deep in the center of each
hinge slot. A high speed Dremel Tool works best for
this. If using a drill, clean out the hinge slots with a
#11 blade.

❏ 3. Use a hobby knife with a sharp #11 blade to

carefully cut a 1/16" [1.6mm] strip of covering from the
fuse about 1/16" [1.6mm] inside the lines marked.
Remove the covering, exposing the bare balsa.

❏ 4. Securely glue the canopy to the fuse using

canopy glue such as J & Z Products Z RC/56
❏ 4. Paint the canopy to match the selected (JOZR5007). Use rubber bands or masking tape to ❏ 3. Without using any glue, insert the hinges into
trim scheme. hold the canopy in position until the glue dries. the stab. Fill the torque rod holes in the elevators with
-60-
 30-minute epoxy. Hint: Tape strips of wax paper to ❏ 6. Use the same hinging method to join the rudder ❏ 2. Secure connections inside the wing between
the stab over the TE at the torque rods to protect the to the fin and the ailerons to the wing. Excess CA servo leads and extension cords with tape, heat shrink
stab from excess epoxy. can be cleaned from the hinge gap with CA tubing or special clips suitable for that purpose.
Debonder (GPMR6039).

Now hinge the flaps... ❏ 3. Slip the wheel collar over the rudder and tail wheel
steering pushrods. Center the rudder and tail wheel,
❏ 7. If you’ve built working flaps, use a toothpick to then securely tighten the set screw in the wheel collar
apply a small amount of petroleum jelly to the pivot with a small drop of thread locking compound.
points of the hinges to keep epoxy out.

❏ ❏ 8. Each set of flaps (the left and right) must be ❏ 4. If you’ve installed retracts, route the air lines
attached to the wing simultaneously (while joined with through the wing. Connect the lines in the fuse to the
the joiner wire). Use a piece of wire or a toothpick to control valve and the air tank in the fuse . Leave the
thoroughly coat the holes in one of the wing halves and lines long enough so they can be connected to the
❏ 4. Join the elevators to the stab and the joiner the matching set of flaps with 30-minute epoxy. Apply landing gear outside of the wing. Connect the air
wire. Wipe away excess epoxy with a tissue epoxy to one end of the hinges and insert them into the lines to the landing gear, then mount the gear. If you
dampened with alcohol. If the hinges don’t remain flaps. Apply epoxy to the other end of the hinges with haven’t already done so, secure the set screw that
centered, remove the elevators and insert a pin in epoxy. Insert the joiner wire into both flaps and join holds the axle to the strut and that holds the wheel
the center of the hinges. Reinstall the elevators. them to the wing. Wipe away excess epoxy before it collars to the axles with a drop of thread locking
Make sure there is a small gap between the hardens. Move the flaps up and down several times to compound. Add a drop of oil to the axles.
elevators and the stab–just enough to slip a piece of make certain all the hinges are in alignment. Allow the
paper through or to see light through. epoxy to fully harden.
❏ 5. Mount the engine and muffler and hook up all
Do not use CA accelerator on any of the hinges ❏ 9. Join the other set of flaps to the wing the same the systems inside the cowl including the fuel lines,
and do not glue the hinges with anything but thin way. After the epoxy hardens, move the flaps up and in-line fuel filler valve, etc.
CA. Do not attempt to glue one half of the hinge down to check their movement and free them up
at a time. The hinges will not be properly secured from any residual epoxy that may have seeped into
and could come out while the model is in flight. the hinges.
❏ 6. The same as instructed for the servo
extensions inside the wing, secure connections
Hook up the controls between the battery lead and the switch. Make
certain none of the servo cords will interfere with the
❏ 1. Reinstall the pushrods and install any hardware landing gear or other systems.
and other components not already in place such as
the fuel tank and fuel lines, servos, on/off switch,
engine, muffler, fuel filler valve, air filler valve, etc.
Connect the flap and aileron servos to a Y-connector ❏ 7. Mount the control horns to the control surfaces
(HCAM2751 for Futaba® servos). One of the aileron (remember that the flap horns are mounted
servos may require a 6" [150mm] extension “backwards”). Connect the servos to the receiver.
(HCAM2701) to reach the Y-connector. This will shift Turn on the radio, center the trims on the transmitter,
❏ 5. Cut a paper towel into several 2" [50mm] squares. the Y-connector to one side of the wing, but there will then center the arms on all the servos except the flap
Add six drops of thin CA to the center of the hinges on still be enough of the wire coming out of the wing to servos. The arms on the flap servos should hold the
both the top and bottom. Use the paper towel squares connect to an extension on the receiver for flaps up when the flap switch (or dial or slider) on the
to absorb excess CA from the hinge gap. connecting during field setup. transmitter is in the “up” position.
-61-
 on the receiver antenna, then route the antenna out Add panel lines
of the fuselage. Connect the other end of the
antenna to the hook. Connect the hook to the fin via
a rubber band and a T-pin.

❏ 10. Mount the on/off switch, external charging

jack and air filler valve (if using retracts) in an
accessible location that will not interfere with other
components or systems inside the fuse.

No warbird would be complete without panel lines.

Panel lines give the model a finished, authentic
appearance. They may be cut from MonoKote and
ironed into position, or drawn directly on the covering
with a Top Flite Panel Line pen. For straight lines drawn
Apply the decals with a pen, use a thin straightedge such as a metal ruler
or a plastic strip as a guide. Apply tape to the underside
1. Make sure the model is clean and free from oily of the straightedge to raise it off the surface slightly so
finger prints or other surface imperfections that may ink does not bleed underneath. Curved lines, hatches
interfere with the decals. and panels can be drawn using home made templates
❏ 8. Mount the receiver and battery pack. There are from thin plastic or cardboard. Top Flite also offers a
several ways and locations for mounting, but on the 2. Cut out the decals with sharp, clean scissors or a Scale Template for rivets (TOPR2187). Mistakes may
prototype the battery was wrapped in R/C foam and sharp hobby knife. If possible, leave an be easily wiped away with a tissue moistened with
positioned below the fuel tank, then secured with a approximately 1/16" [1.6mm] clear border around denatured alcohol.
balsa stick glued between the fuse sides. For the each decal.
receiver, a 1/8" [3.2mm] lite-ply tray was made and From handling, over time ink panel lines may fade and
held in place with balsa sticks glued across the inner 3. For the best results and easier positioning, smudge in some areas, requiring occasional
fuse sides. Before mounting, holes were drilled in the separate the decal from its backing while submerged redrawing. Raw fuel will remove ink panel lines upon
tray and sticks glued across the bottom for rubber in a container of warm water mixed with liquid dish contact. When cleaning the model after flying, most
bands to secure the receiver. washing soap (approximately 2 teaspoons of soap window spray cleaners do not effect ink panel lines, but
per gallon of water from the backing). While still wet, avoid using strong cleaners such as Formula 409.
place the decal on the model and position.

4. Without moving the decal, use a paper towel to

wipe away most of the water. Use a piece of soft 1/8"
[3.2mm] or 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa to squeegee the rest
of the water and air bubbles from beneath the decal.

❏ 9. Make a strain relief and a hook as shown in the 5. Apply the rest of the decals the same way. Allow
sketch from cut-off servo arms. Place the strain relief to dry overnight before flying.
-62-
 GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY These are the recommend control surface At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly
throws: condition with all of the systems in place including
Check the Control Directions High Rate Low Rate the engine, landing gear, covering and paint, and the
radio system.
❏ 1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver. Center the ELEVATOR 5/8" [16mm] up 5/16" [8mm] up
trims on the transmitter. If necessary, adjust the 5/8" [16mm] down 5/16" [8mm] down
pushrods so the control surfaces are centered.
RUDDER 1-5/8" [41mm] right 3/4" [19mm] right
❏ 2. Make certain that the control surfaces and the 1-5/8" [41mm] left 3/4" [19mm] left
carburetor respond in the correct direction. Reverse
the servos where necessary. AILERONS 3/4" [19mm] up 3/8" [9mm] up
3/4" [19mm] down 3/8" [9mm] down

FLAPS 2" [50mm]

IMPORTANT: The Sea Fury has been extensively ❏ 1. Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8" [3.2mm]-wide tape to
flown and tested to determine the throws at which accurately mark the C.G. on the top of the wing on
it flies best. Flying your model at these throws will both sides of the fuselage. The C.G. is located 4-3/8"
provide you with the greatest chance for [111mm] back from the leading edge of the center
successful first flights. If, after you have become section of the wing. Note: This measurement is from
accustomed to the way the Sea Fury flies, you the balsa leading edge, not from the molded plastic
would like to change the throws to suit your taste, air intakes. The C.G. Machine may be used to
that is fine. However, too much control throw could balance the model as shown, but the distance
Set the Control Throws between the plastic air intakes and the LE of the
make the model difficult to control, so remember,
“more is not always better.” wing must be added to the 4-3/8" measurement of
the C.G. location. Take accurate measurements
directly from your model to get this distance.

This is where the model should balance for the

first flights. Later, you may wish to experiment by
shifting the C.G. up to 3/8" [9.5mm] forward or 1/4"
Balance the Model (C.G.) [6mm] back to change the flying characteristics.
Moving the C.G. forward may improve the
More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance smoothness and stability, but it may then require
point) can have the greatest effect on how a more speed for takeoff and make it more difficult
model flies, and may determine whether or not the to slow or flare for landing. Moving the C.G. aft
Use a Great Planes AccuThrow (or a ruler) to
first flight will be successful. If you value this makes the model more maneuverable, but could
accurately measure and set the control throw of each
model and wish to enjoy it for many flights, also cause it to become too difficult to control. In
control surface as indicated in the chart that follows.
DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT any case, start at the recommended location and
PROCEDURE. A model that is not properly do not at any time balance the model outside the
NOTE: The throws are measured at the widest part
balanced will be unstable and possibly unflyable. recommended range.
of the control surface.
-63-
 Balance the airplane laterally

❏ 1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you

lift the model by the engine propeller shaft and the
bottom of the fuse under the TE of the fin. Do this
several times.
How to add noseweight
❏ 2. If one wing always drops when you lift the
model, it means that side is heavy. Balance the
airplane by adding weight to the other wing tip. An
❏ 2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, the airplane that has been laterally balanced will track
landing gear extended (if retracts are installed), all better in loops and other maneuvers.
parts of the model installed (ready to fly) and an
empty fuel tank, place the model upside-down on a
Great Planes CG Machine, or lift it upside-down at
the balance point marked on the top of the wing.
PREFLIGHT
❏ 3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and the
battery pack and/or receiver must be shifted forward or Identify your model
weight must be added to the nose to balance. If the No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site
nose drops, the model is “nose heavy” and the battery or if you fly somewhere on your own, you should always
pack and/or receiver must be shifted aft or weight must have your name, address, telephone number and AMA
be added to the tail to balance. If possible, relocate the number on or inside your model. It is required at all
battery pack and receiver to minimize or eliminate any To get the correct C.G., several strips of lead weight AMA R/C club flying sites and AMA sanctioned flying
additional ballast required. If additional weight is were required in the nose of this model (a total of 8- events. Fill out the identification tag on the decal sheet
required, nose weight may be easily added by using a 1/2 oz.). This is not uncommon for warbirds (and all and place it on or inside your model.
“spinner weight” (GPMQ4645 for the 1 oz. weight, or the wonderful flight characteristics described in the
GPMQ4646 for the 2 oz. weight). If spinner weight is not front of this manual were performed with this weight). Charge the Batteries
practical or is not enough, use Great Planes To minimize the amount of weight required, it is Follow the battery charging instructions that came with
(GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead. A good place to add stick- desirable to position the weight as far forward as your radio control system to charge the batteries. The
on nose weight is to the firewall or the engine mount. possible. This can be done by making a platform transmitter and receiver batteries should always be
Do not attach weight to the cowl—it is not intended to from leftover basswood sticks and 1/8" [3.2mm] charged the night before flying, and at other times as
support weight. Begin by placing incrementally plywood. Using 8-32 x 1-1/2" [38mm] bolts to mount recommended by the radio manufacturer.
increasing amounts of weight on the bottom of the fuse the engine would also be long enough to mount the
over the firewall until the model balances. Once the platform. The platform should be fuelproofed and the NOTE: Checking the condition of the receiver
amount of weight required has been determined, lead should be permanently glued on with epoxy. battery pack is highly recommended. All battery
permanently attach the weight. If required, tail weight packs, whether it’s a trusty pack you’ve taken out of
may be added by cutting open the bottom of the fuse another model, or a new battery pack, it should be
and gluing it permanently inside. cycled, noting the discharge capacity. Oftentimes, a
Note: Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of weak battery pack can be identified (and a valuable
the lead weight to permanently hold it in place. Over model saved!) by comparing its actual capacity to its
time, fuel and exhaust residue may soften the rated capacity. Refer to the instructions and
adhesive and cause the weight to fall off. Use #2 ❏ 4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add recommendations that come with your cycler. If you
sheet metal screws, RTV silicone or epoxy to any weight, recheck the C.G. after the weight has don’t own a battery cycler, perhaps a friend can
permanently hold the weight in place. been installed. cycle the battery pack for you and note its capacity.
-64-
Balance propellers hand signals to show you what is happening. If the Make all engine adjustments from behind the
control surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly! rotating propeller.
Find and correct the problem first. Look for loose
servo connections or broken wires, corroded wires The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right
on old servo connectors, poor solder joints in the after operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good
battery pack or a defective cell, or a damaged condition so fuel will not leak onto a hot engine,
receiver crystal from a previous crash. causing a fire.

To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS off the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s
recommendations. Do not use hands, fingers or any
Carefully balance the propeller and spare propellers Failure to follow these safety precautions may other body part to try to stop the engine. To stop a
before flying. An unbalanced prop can be the single result in severe injury to yourself and others. gasoline powered engine an on/off switch should be
most significant cause of vibration that can damage connected to the engine coil. Do not throw anything into
your model. Not only will engine mounting screws the propeller of a running engine.
and bolts loosen, possibly with disastrous effect, but Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high
vibration may also damage the radio receiver and heat, sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do
battery. Vibration can also cause fuel to foam, which not smoke near the engine or fuel; and remember AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)
will, in turn, cause the engine to run hot or quit. that engine exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly Read and abide the following Academy of Model
carbon monoxide. Therefore do not run the engine in Aeronautics Official Safety Code:
We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop a closed room or garage.
Balancer™ (TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep GENERAL
a Great Planes Fingertip Prop Balancer Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to 1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events,
(GPMQ5000) in our flight box. operate engines. air shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has
been proven to be airworthy by having been previously,
Ground inspection Use safety glasses when starting or running engines. successfully flight tested.
If the engine is new, follow the engine manufacturer’s
instructions to break-in the engine. After break-in, Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or 2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than
confirm that the engine idles reliably, transitions sand; the propeller may throw such material in your approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport
smoothly and rapidly to full power and maintains full face or eyes. without notifying the airport operator. I will give right-of-
power—indefinitely. After running the engine on the way and avoid flying in the proximity of full-scale
model, inspect the model closely to make sure all Keep your face and body as well as all spectators aircraft. Where necessary, an observer shall be utilized
screws remained tight, and the hinges, prop and all away from the plane of rotation of the propeller as to supervise flying to avoid having models fly in the
pushrods and connectors are secure. you start and run the engine. proximity of full-scale aircraft.

Range check Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, 3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for
Ground check the operational range of the radio shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects the flying site I use, and I will not willfully and
before the first flight of the day. With the transmitter such as pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of deliberately fly my models in a careless, reckless
antenna collapsed and the receiver and transmitter shirt or jacket pockets into the prop. and/or dangerous manner.
on, you should be able to walk at least 100 feet away
7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my
from the model and still have control. Have an Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the
name and address or AMA number, on or in the model.
assistant stand by the model and, while you work the engine. Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller.
controls, tell you what the control surfaces are doing. Make certain the glow plug clip or connector is 9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any
Repeat this test with the engine running at various secure so that it will not pop off or otherwise get into device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of
speeds with an assistant holding the model, using the running propeller. any kind).
-65-
RADIO CONTROL ❏ 4. Extend the receiver antenna and make sure it ❏ 21. If you wish to photograph your model, do so
1. I will have completed a successful radio has a strain relief inside the fuselage to keep before the first flight.
equipment ground range check before the first flight tension off the solder joint inside the receiver. ❏ 22. Range check the radio when you get to the
of a new or repaired model. ❏ 5. Balance the model laterally as explained in flying field.
the instructions.
2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of ❏ 6. Use threadlocking compound to secure
spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless critical fasteners such as the set screws that
assisted by an experienced helper. hold the wheel axles to the struts, screws that
hold the carburetor arm (if applicable), screw- FLYING
3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from lock pushrod connectors, etc.
the pit or spectator areas, and I will not thereafter fly ❏ 7. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels The Sea Fury is a great-flying model that flies
over pit or spectator areas, unless beyond my control. will turn freely. smoothly and predictably. The Sea Fury does not,
❏ 8. Make sure all of the hinges are securely glued however, possess the self-recovery characteristics
4. I will operate my model using only radio control in place. of a primary R/C trainer and should be flown only by
frequencies currently allowed by the Federal ❏ 9. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA experienced R/C pilots.
Communications Commission... where appropriate (servo mounting screws,
cowl mounting screws, etc.). Fuel Mixture Adjustment
❏ 10. Confirm that all controls operate in the correct A fully cowled engine may run at a higher
direction and the throws are set up according temperature than an un-cowled engine. For this
to the manual. reason, the fuel mixture should be richened so the
❏ 11. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all engine runs at about 200 rpm below peak speed. By
CHECK LIST the clevises and that all servo arms are running the engine slightly rich, you will help prevent
secured to the servos with the screws dead-stick landings caused by overheating.
During the last few moments of preparation your included with your radio.
mind may be elsewhere anticipating the ❏ 12. Secure connections between servo wires and CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C
excitement of the first flight. Because of this, you Y-connectors or servo extensions, and the AIRPLANES): If, while flying, you notice any unusual
may be more likely to overlook certain checks connection between the battery pack and the sounds, such as a low-pitched “buzz,” this may
and procedures that should be performed before on/off switch with tape, heat shrink tubing or indicate control surface flutter. Because flutter can
the model is flown. To help avoid this, a checklist special clips suitable for that purpose. quickly destroy components of your airplane, any
is provided to make sure these important areas ❏ 13. Make sure servo extension cords do not time you detect flutter you must immediately cut the
are not overlooked. Many are covered in the interfere with other systems (servo arms, throttle and land the airplane! Check all servo
instruction manual, so where appropriate, refer to pushrods, etc.). grommets for deterioration (this may indicate which
the manual for complete instructions. Be sure to ❏ 14. Secure the pressure tap (if used) to the surface fluttered), and make sure all pushrod
check the items off as they are completed (that’s muffler with high temp RTV silicone, thread linkages are secure and free of play. If the control
why it’s called a check list!). locking compound or J.B. Weld. surface fluttered once, it probably will flutter again
❏ 15. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and under similar circumstances unless you can
are not kinked. eliminate the free-play or flexing in the linkages. Here
❏ 1. Fuelproof all areas exposed to fuel or exhaust ❏ 16. Use an incidence meter to check the wing for are some things which can cause flutter: Excessive
residue such as the engine baffle in the cowl, twists and attempt to correct before flying. hinge gap; Not mounting control horns solidly; Poor
cowl mounting blocks, the wing saddle area, etc. ❏ 17. Balance the propeller (and spare propellers). fit of clevis pin in horn; Side-play of pushrod in guide
❏ 2. Check the C.G. according to the measurements ❏ 18. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner. tube caused by tight bends; Poor fit of Z-bend in
provided in the manual. ❏ 19. Place your name, address, AMA number and servo arm; Insufficient glue used when gluing in the
❏ 3. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely telephone number on or inside the model. elevator joiner wire; Excessive play or backlash in
mounted in the fuse. Simply stuffing them into ❏ 20. Cycle the receiver battery pack (if necessary)
servo gears; and Insecure servo mounting.
place with foam rubber is not sufficient. and make sure it is fully charged.
-66-
Takeoff at slower speeds. While flying at reduced throttle landing flare and the model is a foot or so off the
Before getting ready to takeoff, see how the model settings, deploy the flaps so you know what to deck, smoothly increase up elevator until it gently
handles on the ground by doing a few practice runs expect should you choose to land with flaps. Add touches down. Once the model is on the runway and
at low speeds on the runway. Hold “up” elevator to power to see how she climbs as well. Continue to fly has lost flying speed, hold up elevator to place the
keep the tail wheel on the ground. If necessary, around, executing various maneuvers and making tail on the ground, regaining tail wheel control.
adjust the tail wheel so the model will roll straight mental notes (or having your assistant write them
down the runway. If you need to calm your nerves down) of what trim or C.G. changes may be required One final note about flying the Sea Fury. Have a goal
before the maiden flight, shut the engine down and to fine tune the model so it flies the way you like. or flight plan in mind for every flight. This can be
bring the model back into the pits. Top off the fuel, Mind your fuel level, but use this first flight to become learning a new maneuver(s), improving a
then check all fasteners and control linkages for familiar with the model before landing. maneuver(s) you already know, or learning how the
peace of mind. model behaves in certain conditions (such as on
Landing high or low rates). This is not necessarily to improve
Remember to takeoff into the wind. When ready, Landings may be executed with or without flaps. your skills (though it is never a bad idea!), but more
point the model straight down the runway, hold a bit Modelers unfamiliar with flaps usually make their importantly so you do not surprise yourself by
of up elevator to keep the tail on the ground to first few landings without them, but learn to prefer impulsively attempting a maneuver and suddenly
maintain tail wheel steering, then gradually advance landing with flaps (and making beautiful, slow fly- finding that you’ve run out of time, altitude or
the throttle. As the model gains speed decrease up by’s) later on. If unsure, begin by landing with the airspeed. Every maneuver should be deliberate, not
elevator allowing the tail to rise. One of the most flaps set to half of their full setting. A slight pitch- impulsive. For example, if you’re going to do a loop,
important things to remember with a tail dragger is to down will occur when flaps are extended, but this will check your altitude, mind the wind direction
always be ready to apply right rudder to counteract help establish the descent. If preferred, up elevator (anticipating rudder corrections that will be required
engine torque. Gain as much speed as the runway could be mixed with flaps to maintain a level attitude. to maintain heading), remember to throttle back at
and flying site will practically allow before gently If landing without flaps, the nose of the model will the top, and make certain you are on the desired
applying up elevator, lifting the model into the air. At pitch down slightly when the landing gear is rates (high/low rates). A flight plan greatly reduces
this moment it is likely that more right rudder will be extended. When ready to land with flaps, maintain an the chances of crashing just because of poor
required to counteract engine torque. Be smooth on engine R.P.M. that is slightly higher than normal to planning and impulsive moves. Remember to think.
the elevator stick, allowing the model to establish a overcome the additional drag. Flaps should be
gentle climb to a safe altitude before turning into the extended after the throttle and airspeed have been Have a ball! But always stay in control and fly in a
traffic pattern. reduced and the model is on the downwind leg of the safe manner.
landing pattern.
GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!
Flight To initiate a landing approach, lower the throttle
For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffic, while on the downwind leg. Allow the nose of the
it is a good idea to have an assistant on the flight line model to pitch downward to gradually bleed off
with you. Tell him to remind you to throttle back once altitude. Continue to lose altitude, but maintain
the plane gets to a comfortable altitude. While full airspeed by keeping the nose down as you turn onto
throttle is usually desirable for takeoff, most scale the crosswind leg. Make the final turn toward the
models fly well at reduced speeds. runway (into the wind) keeping the nose down to
maintain airspeed and control. Level the attitude
Take it easy with the Sea Fury for the first few flights, when the model reaches the runway threshold,
gradually getting acquainted with it as you gain modulating the throttle as necessary to maintain the
confidence. Adjust the trims to maintain straight and glide path and airspeed. If you are going to
level flight. After flying around for a while, and while overshoot, smoothly advance the throttle (always
still at a safe altitude with plenty of fuel, practice slow ready with right rudder to counteract torque) and
flight and execute practice landing approaches by climb out to make another attempt. Retract the flaps
reducing the throttle to see how the model handles after advancing the throttle. When ready to make the
-67-
B
C