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Agricultural Crop Production

(Focus on Agri Crop Work)
Quarter 3 – Module 4 (Week 7-8)
Installation of Irrigation and/or Drainage Pipes
Environmental Aspects of Irrigation Work
Repair and Maintenance of Irrigation
Components and Systems
 What I Need to Know

An irrigation system will help you create the farm crop production you’ve always wanted
by making sure your plants get the water they need, just when they need it. Other
watering methods can use up to 50% more water than your garden needs. That isn’t
good for your farm or your budget. The solution is precision watering using an irrigation
system that can be adjusted to the individual needs of your farm crops. As a result, you
will see thicker, greener crops and more beautiful gardens as you save time and water.
Observing the environmental aspects is also one consideration in installing irrigation
pipes.

The first step in achieving a successful irrigation system is a good design. Properly
designed sprinkler and drip systems decrease water consumption by improving the
accuracy, timing, and delivery of water, thereby reducing runoff and preventing over
watering. This leads to a better-looking farm and garden in producing crops while
preventing plant loss.

At the end of this module, you are expected to do the following:

1. aware on the proper installation of irrigation and drainage pipes,
2. understanding the environmental aspects of irrigation works, and
3. know how to repair and maintain the irrigation components and system.

What I Know

Pre-Test
Directions: Choose the letter of the best answer. Write your answers on a separate sheet
of paper or in your test notebook.
1. Water is clear and soil has settled to the bottom of the jar.
A. clay loam soil C. loam soil
B. clay soil D. sandy soil
2. Water is still murky (misty) with bits of suspended matter.
A. clay loam soil C. loam soil
B. clay soil D. sandy soil
3. Water is murky and there is a ring of sediment around the jar.
A. clay loam soil C. loam soil
B. clay soil D. sandy soil

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4. These are the guide on drainage pipes installation except one.
A. buy pipes with cheaper price
B. determine the service line pipe
C. determine the soil type
D. sketch the farm location
5. Poor drainage causes several problems for agricultural production because
______.
A. bacteria that provide nitrogen to the crops cannot grow
B. nutrient processes and transformations are impeded
C. plants will grow vigorously
D. the soil has little or no permeability
6. The deeper the pipe, the less likely it is to be damaged.
A. assembly PVC pipe C. lateral pipes and tubes
B. barbed fittings D. locking fittings
7. Temporarily place threaded caps on the risers.
A. assembly PVC pipe C. lateral pipes and tubes
B. barbed fittings D. locking fittings
8. To seal the connection there is a rubber washer in the fitting.
A. assembly PVC pipe C. lateral pipes and tubes
B. barbed fittings D. locking fittings
9. The easiest way to install the pipe is to start at the water source and work
out to the valves, then continue to the end of each lateral.
A. assembly PVC pipe C. lateral pipes and tubes
B. barbed fittings D. locking fittings
10. This valve is normally buried in a valve box and should be tested periodically
to make sure it remains operational.
A. backflow prevention device C. point of connection
B. mainlines D. valves
11. The point at which a non-potable water source connects to the main water
supply is referred to as a cross-connection.
A. backflow prevention device C. point of connection
B. mainlines D. valves
12. Devices that regulate the flow of water in an irrigation system.
A. backflow prevention device C. point of connection
B. mainlines D. valves
13. Under constant water pressure and is commonly the largest pipe in an
irrigation system.
A. backflow prevention device C. point of connection
B. mainlines D. valves
14. This occurs when the pressure in the irrigation system (downstream) is
greater than the pressure in the water supply (upstream).
A. back pressure C. mainlines
B. back-siphonage D. valves
15. This is caused by negative or reduced pressure in the water system.
A. back pressure C. mainlines
B. back-siphonage D. valves

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 What’s In

This module will tackle installation of irrigation and/or drainage pipes, environmental
aspects of irrigation work repair and maintenance of irrigation components and
systems.

What’s New

Understanding and Installing Drainage System

Farmers can increase yields and net returns by installing artificial drainage systems on
soils that have poor natural drainage. Artificial drainage systems can also increase land
value, improve crop insurance coverage, and reclaim saline land. When planning a
drainage system, farmers should consider factors such as the types and functions of
such systems, methods to detect drainage problems, design options, and the
environmental effects of drainage.

Why artificial drainage is needed

Good drainage is essential for the success of irrigated agriculture: It ensures that the
crop’s root system has a good mixture of water and air and that the salt balance in the
soil is favorable for plant growth. Poor drainage causes several problems for agricultural
production:
● Because the soil has little or no permeability, excess water accumulates on and
below the surface after rainfall or irrigation.
● Water tables that remain high for 48 hours or longer can saturate the soil and
leave too little oxygen in the soil pores for the root system, damaging the plant.
● Agricultural machinery is difficult to move on wet ground for soil preparation.
● Bacteria that provide nitrogen to the crops cannot grow.
● Nutrient processes and transformations are impeded, such as the prevention of
usable forms of nitrogen and sulfur.
● The soil temperatures are 7 to 14 oF lower than that of similar soil with good
drainage. This impedes germination and slows crop growth, making the plants
more susceptible to diseases.

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Poor drainage can occur in arid and humid areas and can be caused by natural or
human reasons, including:
• The presence of semi-permeable or impermeable layers of soil
• Over-irrigation
• Proximity to reservoirs or coastal areas
• Canal seepage
Design includes information on proper equipment placement throughout your farm on
the proper installation of drainage pipes, correct sprinkler selection, number of zones
needed, ideal timer location and a complete shopping list of all the parts and accessories
you need—even the amount of PVC or poly pipe your system will require. Designs are
broken down by zone for ease of planning.

Guide on Drainage Pipes Installation:

1. Draw your Property to Scale (Sketch the farm location)
a. Outline your farm nursery for seedlings, farm tools and equipment area, and
other structures.
b. Show walkways, roads, and other surfaces.
c. Identify trees or major obstacles.
d. Measure and record the perimeter of your property.
e. Identify slopes.
f. Show ground cover, grass, seedling beds, etc.
g. Identify the location of the water meter (or pump) and main line
2. Determine your soil type
You can easily determine your soil type—sand, loam or clay— using a clean
empty jar with a lid, clean tap water, a tablespoon of detergent and a sample of
the soil from your farm.
a. Fill the jar about 1⁄3 full of the soil to be tested.
b. Add water and detergent and cap the jar.
c. Shake the jar vigorously and set aside for several hours.
d. Evaluate the results and record it in your notebook.
Sandy Soil: Water is clear, and soil has settled to the bottom of the jar.
Loam Soil: Water is still murky (misty) with bits of suspended matter.
Clay Soil: Water is murky and there is a ring of sediment around the jar.
3. Determining the Service Line Size
Contact your local water company or wrap a piece of string around the pipe
once and then measure the string. Use the chart below to determine the supply
line size/diameter. Record the line size on the paper.
Length of String 2¾" 3¼" 3½" 4" 4 3⁄8" 5"

Copper Service Line ¾" 1" 1¼"

Galvanized of PVC ¾" 1" 1¼"

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 4. Determine your Water Pressure and Flow
Water pressure and flow can be determined using a Flow & Pressure Gauge or
by performing a bucket test and using a standard pressure gauge.
Measure static pressure:
a. Ensure all water connection in the farm is turned off.
b. Attach the flow gauge to the main faucet closest to where the main line
enters the farm.
c. Ensure that the gauge is completely closed.
d. Open the main faucet slowly.
e. When the main faucet is fully open, read the static pressure and record it in
the notebook. Measure dynamic pressure and gallons-per-minute (GPM):
1. Open the flow gauge slowly. (The static reading will drop and the GPM will
rise as the gauge is opened.)
2. Continue to open the gauge until pressure drops to 50 PSI.
3. Record the GPM at 50 PSI in your notebook.
4. Continue to close the gauge to 45 and 40 PSI and record the GPM
readings. If the pressure does not drop to 40 PSI or is above 50 PSI after
opening the flow gauge all the way, then take the flow and pressure reading
at the fully open position. If rapid fluctuation occurs on the flow gauge,
record the average reading.
Installing a relief drainage system: a step-by-step process
To install a drainage system, follow these steps:
1. Analyze the economic feasibility of installing a drainage system to ensure that the
predicted net return will offset the initial cost.
2. Review regulations and assess the environmental impact of building the drainage
system. Consider ways to avoid any harm to the environment and adopt best
management practices to protect the water quality of the area.
3. Conduct field studies to determine the characteristics of the soil profile, such as soil
texture and structure, stratification of the soil layers, field topography, soil variability
on the farm, hydraulic conductivity of the soil (movement of a volume of water per
hour, both laterally and vertically). Determine the hydraulic conductivity in several
parts of the field. Know the variables of irrigation management, such as maximum
rainfall and irrigation depths.
4. Design the drainage system. During the design process, determine the depth of
installation of the relief laterals, the maximum length and diameter of the laterals and
collector lines, and the grade of the drainage pipes.
5. Install the drainage system:
a. The trencher machine is moved to the desired starting position.
b. A backhoe digs a hole where the trencher will install the first drainage
lateral.

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 c. The trencher machines starts trenching
d. The trencher lays the pipe at the desired depth at the bottom of the trench.
The trencher machine injects the drainage pipe as it uncoils from its roll.
f. The grade of the trencher is determined by a global position system or laser
system. The laterals are tied to the collector using tees.
Different Methods of Digging and Installing Piping System
Choosing the right way to dig can be half the battle. Here are a few of the methods as
our guide in different situations.
Tips for Installing Sprinkler System Pipes, Tubes and Wires
The minimum requirements, along with tips and tricks, for installing the pipes, tubes,
and wires for your new irrigation system.

Summary of major points:

▪ Wet areas to be trenched a couple days in advance.

▪ Consider hiring someone to dig the trenches.
▪ Install mainline pipes 18 inches deep.
▪ Install lateral pipes 8 to 12 inches deep.
▪ Use proper methods for gluing PVC fittings to prevent future leaks.
▪ Use good quality fittings materials.
▪ Don’t forget to install wires in the trenches!
▪ Sleeve the wires if you have aggressive critters.

Preparation:

A day or two before you begin digging the trenches, water the soil thoroughly to soften
it, but try not to create mud. An inexpensive soaker hose works great for slowly wetting
the trench areas or use a sprinkler on the end of a hose to wet the entire area. As you
trench, periodically water down the area to keep down the dust. Airborne dust is a
serious health risk, it’s better to be safe than sorry! Do-it-yourselfers should seriously
consider hiring someone to do the trenching if you have more than 100′ or so to trench.
You can often hire someone to do it for little more than the cost of renting a
trencher. Ask at a professional irrigation or plumbing store, often they know of people
who own or have access to a trencher and dig trenches on the side. Let someone else
hurt their back, a trencher machine can beat you up bad if you aren’t used to using
it! Note that in very rocky soil often a backhoe is the best way to dig trenches. You can
often rent a small excavator with a backhoe on it. Bonus, if you aren’t a professional
equipment operator who operates one every day for a living, an afternoon digging with
a backhoe can be a lot of fun!

If you are digging the trenches by hand, consider doing it in sections. This has a couple
of advantages:

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First you don’t completely wear yourself out digging,

Second it reduces the danger of having lots of open trenches at the same time. The
bottoms of the trenches need to be as level and smooth as possible.
If the trenches were dug by a machine don’t think you’re going to avoid all the shovel
work! You will still get a good work out. The trenching machines leave a lot of dirt in
the bottom of the trenches that you may need to remove. You will need a narrow blade
trenching shovel for this. If you have someone dig the trenches with a machine, have
them over-excavate the trench depth by an extra 2″. They may charge you more for the
deeper trench but then you can just leave the loose dirt in the bottom of the trench and
save a lot of hand shoveling!

Trench Depth, Pipe Materials

Note that the minimum pipe depth in some areas of every farm is set by government
ordinances as part of water conservation ordinances. The reason is that broken pipes
wastewater and so they require a minimum depth to protect the pipes from accidental
damage.
The depth of the trenches will vary depending on a number of factors.

All plastic mainline pipe should be at least 18″ deep as measured from the top of the
pipe to the soil surface. Because a mainline always has pressurized water in it you do
not want it to be shallow where it is easily damaged. So, if you are installing a 1 1/2″
mainline the trench is going to need to be about 20″ deep. Any mainline pipe that
is not buried at least 18″ deep should be metal, such as copper, brass, or steel. In most
areas this is required by law (the Uniform Plumbing Code) but it just makes good sense
to do it everywhere. All plastic eventually weakens when exposed to sunlight, even the
plastic that is labeled “UV resistant.” Also, you don’t want to accidentally break a
plastic pipe with a shovel when planting a new shrub or weeding! As a side note if you
use steel pipe, be sure to either use the plastic-coated type or wrap the pipe with a
special protective plastic tape (ask your supplier for the tape). Even the galvanized steel
pipe will rust with time, so wrap it with plastic tape just to be safe.

Lateral pipes and tubes for home irrigation systems can usually be about 8-10″
deep. (The pipes or tubes between the control valves and the sprinkler heads are called
laterals.) For commercial systems the standard is that the lateral pipe is 12″ deep, so if
you really want to do it right, the trench needs to be about 14″ deep. So how deep should
you bury it? For the do-it-yourselfer the argument is more work now or more work later.
The deeper the pipe, the less likely it is to be damaged. Note that some sources
recommend 6″ deep, however at that depth the pipe/tube often gets damaged by
standard yard care operations like aerating and dethatching.

Assembling PVC Pipe

The easiest way to install the pipe is to start at the water source and work out to the
valves, then continue to the end of each lateral. Assemble the pipe outside of the trench
and then lower the assembled sections into the trench as you move along. Try to avoid
getting dirt into the pipe as you assemble it. The best way to do this is to keep the open
end of the last pipe section glued out of the trench. Unfortunately, it will want to fall

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into the trench if you don’t hold it. A good way to prevent this is to place a couple of
short pieces of scrap pipe crossways across the top of the trench to hold the last section
of pipe up out of the trench while you glue the new length of pipe or fitting onto it. If you
need to stop work for the night stuff a rag into the open pipe end to keep out dirt and
small animals. Just don’t forget to remove the rag before you start work again!
Unfortunately, many problems with new sprinkler systems turn out to be caused by a
rag left in one side of the pipes! Important! PVC cement, PVC primer, and acetone are
flammable. Do not use them around any ignition source. Do not breath the vapors. Close
the containers when not in use. Avoid contact between these chemicals and your skin.
Don’t get any of these in your eyes and avoid getting them on your clothes. You are
working with an aggressive chemical solvent, so use common sense! One last warning.
Look inside the pipe lengths before you connect them together and make sure nothing
is in there. It is not uncommon to find rocks, cloth, and toy cars inside pipes that have
been stored where kids play.

1. Cut the pipe ends square using a hacksaw or preferably, a PVC pipe cutter. It is
extremely important that all the burrs be removed from the cut pipe end. These
burrs will scratch the pipe as the sections are pressed together creating small
channels that will become leaks someday. Smooth the burrs and rough edges
using a pocket knife, file, or a piece of sandpaper.
2. Insert the pipe end about 1/4″ into the end of the fitting to check the fit, then
pull it back apart. Sometimes the pipe isn’t perfectly round or isn’t the correct
diameter, and it won’t go into the fitting. Now is the time to discover this, not
when it’s coated with glue. Don’t push it together any farther than 1/4″ or it will
be very hard to remove. Fittings are made so that the back of the fitting socket is
smaller in diameter than the front. This is true of both threaded and solvent
welded fittings, metal and plastic. The reason is to create a tighter joint which is
less likely to leak. This is also the primary reason that it becomes harder and
harder to press the male end into the female the farther it goes into the fitting!
3. This step is optional, many people don’t use primer. But almost every professional
installer does, so does this suggest anything to you? In cold weather (if you need
to wear a jacket) you should always use primer as it makes the glue work better
in cold temperatures. Coat the mating surfaces of both the pipe and the fitting
with PVC primer where they will be joined. Use the primer like it was paint, don’t
allow it to puddle or drip. The purpose of the primer is twofold. First it helps clean
any foreign materials off of the pieces. Second it starts to soften the PVC plastic,
or in industry terms, it “breaks the glaze.” When PVC pipe is extruded a thin,
hard layer of plastic develops on the surface which is known as glaze. This is
what gives the pipe that shiny look. PVC primer is pretty much just acetone with
a pretty purple dye in it so you can see where you’ve used it. If you’ve been paying
attention as you read this tutorial (wake up!!!) then you know that acetone is the
solvent for PVC plastic. If you place a piece of PVC pipe in acetone it will get softer
and softer until it pretty much just melts into a blob. Acetone will also melt most
other plastics, so watch that you don’t spill it (or the primer) onto anything you
don’t want melted.
4. Coat the outside of the pipe and the inside mating surfaces of the fitting with PVC
cement. Be generous with the cement but if it starts to drip or run off, you’re
using too much. The goal is to use the thickest layer of cement possible without
it running or dripping off. Press the pipe and fitting together using a twisting

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 motion so that the pipe makes a 1/4 circle turn as it goes into the fitting. Twisting
helps distribute the cement more evenly. Remember the cement dries extremely
fast so don’t waste any time and be sure to get the fitting aligned the way you
want it before the cement sets. If you have never glued pipe before it is strongly
suggested that you buy a few extra couplings and use some scrap pipe to practice
with before taking on the real thing. Press the pipe into the fitting all the way
until it bottoms out. If you don’t get it all the way in before it sets, you greatly
increase the chances of a leak. So, practice, practice, practice! Hold the glued
joint in place for about 30 seconds after shoving it together to allow the cement to
set up. Try not to put any major stress on the joint for another few minutes after
gluing (it’s okay to lay it down, just don’t yank on the ends or twist the pipe). You
really shouldn’t put water into the pipes for 24 hours after gluing, but this isn’t
always practical in the real world. The reality is that the joint develops the
majority of its strength in just a few minutes.
5. Too much glue can be just as bad as too little. Remember the glue is a solvent, it
works not just by bonding the pipe like standard glue, but by also melting the
pipe and fitting together as well. But it will also melt a hole through the pipe if a
large amount of it sits in one place for a long time. Why tell you this? After all,
you’re not planning to put a large gob of cement on the pipe! As you shove the
pipe into the fitting the end of the pipe pushes a “bead” of glue in front of it, much
like a bulldozer bushes dirt. If you use way too much glue this bead gets very
large. It is not unusual for a beginner or someone being careless to create beads
so large that they completely blocked the flow path through a 1/2″
fitting! Besides blocking the flow, the bead also creates a weak point in the PVC.
A small bead is normal and is expected. But if a glob of cement drips off from the
joint when you push the pipe into the fitting, then you are using too much
cement. Remember, too little glue is also a problem so don’t over-react! If the
cement doesn’t drip, you’re okay. If you can’t get the pipe fully into the fitting
before the glue sets, then you’re probably not using ENOUGH glue.

Assembling Polyethylene Tube or PEX

Assembling polyethylene tubing and/or PEX tube is pretty simple. There are two types
of fittings available for poly tube and PEX.

Barbed Fittings: Old school method. Press the barbed ends of the fittings into the tube
and place a clamp on the tube directly over the barbs. Tighten the clamp to hold the
pipe on the barb. That’s pretty much it. If the tube is cold and stiff you can soften it by
leaving it in the sun, or dipping it in hot water, but don’t use a flame of any kind. Once
the pipe is assembled you can place it in the bottom of the trench. For sprinkler systems
install the sprinkler risers, but not the sprinkler heads. Temporarily place threaded caps
on the risers.

Locking Fittings: Latest technology. These are fittings that you insert the tubing
into. A toothed “lock” inside the female end “bites” into the soft poly tube and holds tube
in place. To seal the connection there is a rubber washer in the fitting. Very easy to
use, much easier than the barbed type, especially if the tube is cold. For PEX
mainlines use the more expensive household plumbing quality fittings made for

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PEX, not the cheaper ones made for irrigation systems. The irrigation fittings are great
for your laterals but don’t use them on mainlines.

Wiring

Don’t forget to install the control wire for the valves while the trenches are open (unless,
of course, you don’t plan to bury the wire.) The wire should be at least two inches away
from the pipe, and either next to, or under the pipe. Never place the wire above the pipe.
Most pro maintenance people (it’s the maintenance people that have to deal with wires
getting accidentally cut, not the installer) prefer that the wire be 2-4″ below the pipe.
This way the pipe protects the wire from damage, and you are less likely to accidentally
cut the wires when making repairs to the pipe. If you are using numerous single wires
rather than a multi-wire cable, it is easier to handle the wires if you tape them together
into a bundle every 10′ or so. The size of each wire is determined from a chart provided
by the valve manufacturer. Every valve model is different, but we can make some
generalizations. For residential systems where the wire length between controller and
valve (not the distance from controller to valve, but the length of the wire between the
controller and the valve) is less than 200′, #18 wire size will work. #18 is the size of wire
provided in most multi-wire (or multi-conductor) irrigation cable. Check the wire
packaging or look at the small print on the wire itself to find the wire gauge (size). The
standard wire gauge for commercial irrigation systems is #14 or sometimes #12. As the
numbers get smaller the wire gets bigger, so #12 wire will carry more current
further than #14. The wire should be made for direct burial in the ground, the correct
direct burial wire will be labeled “UF-AWG” on the wire insulation. If you don’t mind a
little extra expense, place the wire in a PVC pipe sleeve to protect it. If there are a lot of
burrowing rodents (like gophers, moles, and ground squirrels), in the area putting it in
a sleeve will save you a lot of headaches later. Rodents will chew on the wire and cause
you no small amount of grief. While we’re talking about wiring this is a good time to
warn you against a common temptation that has disastrous results. Never connect the
wires to the irrigation controller and then “spark” the wires against each other to test
them! This can damage the circuits in many of the irrigation control clocks. If you need
to test the wire circuits the best cheap way to do it is to connect a valve to the wire with
the controller turned off, then have someone turn on the controller station while you
listen for the valve solenoid to click when the circuit is activated.

Environmental considerations
Water that drains from a property may have been polluted by sediment, nutrients, and
pesticides. Runoff from agricultural lands and irrigation sometimes causes natural
streams to have low levels of dissolved oxygen. An indication of low quality could be
the increase of fish kills in natural streams. Because water is a precious resource,
drainage water may be reused or managed to avoid harming the environment.
To reduce the runoff of nutrients, residues, and sediment from agricultural lands:
• Avoid over-fertilization and control the placement and timing of fertilizer
applications.

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• Manage pests responsibly by monitoring thresholds and taking into account
beneficial and harmful pests.
• Rotate crops and manage residue to avoid transporting sediment in which nutrients
and pesticides can attach.
• Apply leaching irrigation depths but avoid overirrigation and waste by scheduling
irrigation.
Where necessary, consider the following additional practices also to reduce erosion and
runoff: leveling irrigation land, installing grade stabilization structures, reducing tillage,
and installing filter strips between the drainage ditches and irrigated fields. Filter strips
are areas of herbaceous vegetation situated between cropland, grazing land, or
disturbed land (including forestland) and environmentally sensitive areas. The use of
artificial drainage practices on lands that are or have a potential to be wetlands is strictly
prohibited.
Construction Irrigation System
1. Types of System
2. Types of Scheme Development
3. Status of Irrigation Development

Irrigation Repair and Maintenance

One of the most important components of farm care is irrigation. Over-watering or
under-watering can seriously damage the health of your crops, causing root decay,
shallow root growth and run-off.
When it comes to irrigation and sprinkler system troubleshooting, the following are the
guidelines:
● Fix irrigation system issues for one that works well without wasting water.
● Maintain flow meters, gate valves irrigation controllers and irrigation valves,
essential to proper function.
● Maintain, tag and assess irrigation system inventories. If failure occurs,
immediate irrigation repair or sprinkler repair can be made.
● Manage smart irrigation controllers and computerized systems working at peak
efficiency.
● Audit and manage evaporation and transpiration, and scheduling to keep your
watering patterns on track.
● Repair and update irrigation systems, new parts and equipment retrofitting so it
can immediately repair or replace parts of the system.
● Define and manage hydro-zones, grouping plants and trees with similar
watering requirements.
Simply buying a sprinkler is not the key to proper watering and healthy farms, it
needs repair and maintenance for the things to properly work.

Irrigation Systems Specification

Proper maintenance of an irrigation system involves having a working knowledge of the
functionality of the basic components that are common in all systems. This knowledge
can be directed toward detecting and preventing problems associated with improperly

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functioning systems, thus preventing deterioration of crop production. Irrigation work
involves the maintenance and repair of all the components of the irrigation system.
The scope of work includes, but is not limited to, the point of connection, piping
system, electrical system and the sprinkler heads that apply water to the farm area.
Cost associated with the replacement of unsalvageable materials damaged through
negligence or from normal wear and tear is the responsibility of the farm owner.

Replacement of the Original Parts

Replacement of irrigation system components must be made with materials of the same
manufacturer and model as the original equipment. Substitutions of materials other
than the original equipment brand will be approved only when the original equipment
has been discontinued and is no longer available for purchase at any location. The
substituted component must be completely compatible with the original and must be
approved in advance by the Engineer. All repairs to the system shall be identical to the
original installation unless otherwise approved in advance by the Engineer.

All replacement parts must have the same output and coverage specifications as the
previous equipment.

Changes to Irrigation Systems

If changes to the irrigation system components will result in lower future maintenance
costs, less frequent breakage, or an increase in public safety, you may request
authorization from the Engineer.

Components of a Typical Irrigation Systems

An efficient irrigation system consists of a carefully engineered assembly of pipes, valves,
sprinkler heads, electrical wires and other hardware. There are eight main components
that are involved with all automatic sprinkler systems usually observed in the farm.
The types and functions of these components are the following:
1. Point of Connection (POC)
The point of connection is the location where an irrigation system taps into
an available water supply/source. The source of water for the entire irrigation
system is controlled by some type of master shut-off valve, typically a gate
valve near the POC. This valve is normally buried in a valve box and should
be tested periodically to make sure it remains operational.
2. Backflow Prevention Device
The point at which a non-potable water source connects to the main water
supply is referred to as a cross-connection. This occurs at the POC (described
above) for an irrigation system. Since water in an irrigation system is subject
to contamination, the potable water supply is in danger of contamination if
water from the irrigation system flows back into the city piping system. This
situation, called backflow, is the unwanted reversal of the water flow through
a cross-connection. To prevent backflow from occurring, all irrigation systems
are required to have an approved backflow prevention device.
Backflow preventers should be installed in an accessible location to facilitate
servicing, testing and inspection. They are usually installed immediately
downstream near the POC. Backflow prevention devices allow flow in one

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 direction only. It is important to make sure the arrow points in the direction
of flow when these devices are installed. Backflow preventers contain seals,
springs and moving parts that are subject to wear and fatigue; therefore,
periodic testing is required.

Backflow has 2 different ways:

From backpressure – This occurs when the pressure in the irrigation system
(downstream) is greater than the pressure in the water supply (upstream).
This can be caused by a decrease in pressure in the water supply, an increase
in the downstream pressure, or both. A booster pump in the irrigation system
can cause backpressure.
From back-siphonage – This is caused by negative or reduced pressure in
the water system. Some possible causes include undersized piping, a line
break lower than the service connection or a high-water withdrawal rate from
firefighting, pipe flushing, etc.
3. Mainlines
The mainline is a pipe that carries water from the POC, through the backflow
prevention device and then to the remote-control valves. Typically, this pipe
is made of polyvinyl chloride or PVC (a semi-rigid plastic), although copper or
galvanized steel pipe has been used in the past. The mainline is placed in a
trench at a recommended depth of 18 to 24 inches. The mainline is under
constant water pressure and is commonly the largest pipe in an irrigation
system.
4. Valves
Valves are devices that regulate the flow of water in an irrigation system. There
are many types of valves, including main valves, flow valves, isolation valves
and drain valves. Some valves are operated manually, while others are
electrically controlled.
5. Lateral Piping System (laterals)
Laterals are the pipes that carry water from the control valves to the
sprinkler’s heads or drip emitters. They are located downstream from the
mainline and are connected to the mainline by remote control valves. PVC
(polyvinyl chloride) or polyethylene pipe is generally used for laterals. PVC is
a semi-rigid plastic. Polyethylene (poly pipe or poly tubing) is a flexible plastic
that is often used for drip system laterals.
6. Sprinkler Heads
Usually, the sprinkler heads in a watering zone are uniformly spaced along
the lateral piping system (laterals). Each sprinkler delivers a metered amount
of water over a part of the entire zone. It is essential that each zone has the
same type of sprinkler heads on it because each type of sprinkler head has a
specific rate of application. If different types of sprinklers are placed on the
same lateral, the distribution will be uneven and dry and/or wet spots will
develop.
7. Low volume irrigation systems or drip irrigation require additional
equipment compared to spray irrigation systems. The additional components
for low volume systems are described below.
Drip valve assembly
• Each zone has a drip valve assembly contained within a valve box.
Each assembly is made of the following components:
1. Remote control valve.

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 2. Filter – Low volume systems include emitters with small openings that can
easily become clogged. To prevent clogging, filters are usually installed.
3. Pressure regulator – Most low volume irrigation systems are designed to
operate at pressures below that of the typical water supply. To keep water
pressure within the design limits of the system, a pressure regulator is
installed.
8. Environmental sensors
Environmental sensors are devices that interface with controllers,
shutting down an irrigation system when water is not needed. Different
sensors are available that can monitor rainfall, soil moisture, humidity.
Rain sensors are the most common type of sensor. These sensors have
a collection device that gathers rainwater. When a preset or pre-
determined threshold of rainwater is collected, the schedule is disabled
and watering does not occur. When the rainwater evaporates
(mimicking the soil drying out) the controller again operates as
programmed. Rain sensors should be maintained so that they are free
of debris and insects on the collection device.
Maintenance common to all types of systems
While there may be multiple types of irrigation delivery types in the irrigation
system there are components that are used in all of them. There are also
maintenance practices that are needed with the different types of irrigation.

Daily Maintenance
This is simply being observant.
Look at the plant material, they will show signs of over or underwatering.
Signs of Underwatering Signs of Overwatering
Older leaves turn down and drop Leaves turn light green or yellow
Leaves are dull or drooping Young shoots are wilted
Leaves curl Excessive growth
Stem or branches die back Algae or mushrooms around plants

The best way to find out how much water is in the soil is to use a soil probe. It
will not penetrate our soil when dry but will penetrate with little resistance in our
soil when it is moist. Grass only needs to be watered to a depth of 6-10” so a long
screwdriver works well. For shrubs and trees a longer metal rod will show the
true depth of water.

Monthly system Maintenance

In running irrigation at night problems are often undetected. You want to
turn it on during the daytime so you can observe the system when it is running.
This is the best thing to do at the irrigation controller. Good way to verify that the
watering schedule is correctly programmed for the season. Additionally, wiring
problems will go undetected if the irrigation checks are done by manually opening
the valves.

Semi-annual system Maintenance

Replace the backup battery in the controller. These keep the watering schedule
that is programmed into the controller in the event of a power outage. Many
controllers use a standard alkaline 9-volt battery. Some use a rechargeable 9-volt
battery. Check your controller manual to see which type of battery to use. Never

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 put a standard alkaline battery in a controller that uses a rechargeable battery.
If your controller uses a rechargeable battery, then every two years is the
recommended replacement interval. Some newer controllers have internal back
up batteries that are not replaceable. Inspect valve boxes. Small leaks can go
undetected for a long time inside of the boxes. Clean out any excess dirt that has
infiltrated into the box, the valves should not be buried.
Be sure to check the wire connections. A very common irrigation system failure
is when regular wire nuts are used. There is a high level of moisture inside of the
boxes from condensation and corrosion on the wires will stop the valve from
opening when the controller sends the signal. Use waterproof wire connectors.
These can be as simple as wire nuts that are pre-filled with silicone. Commercial
irrigation systems use a different type of connector, commonly referred to as
Dri-Splice or Pentite connectors. These are preferred as they must be cut off
when replaced and they cannot be reused. This makes it necessary to install a
new connector whenever a repair is done.

Annual system Maintenance

It may be time to consider having the backflow preventer tested. The backflow
preventer keeps the water from returning to the drinking water side after it has
moved into the irrigation system. A backflow preventer is required on any
irrigation system. Commercial irrigation systems are required to be tested every
year, this is more often than needed for a home irrigation system. If it has been
three to five years since it has been tested this may be a good idea, a
malfunctioning backflow preventer will give a false sense of security. Contact your
water provider to get a list of the state certified backflow testers in your area.

What is It

The irrigation system is a kind of life support system for our plants. If we don’t keep it
running optimally, we can waste water and some of our plants will suffer, especially the
delicate ones.

Irrigation systems are essential elements of farms for institutional and commercial
facilities. When properly installed, operated, and maintained, irrigation systems ensure
that farms look their best and remain healthy. But farm managers also can run into
costly leaks, unsightly damage to crops, and waste of valuable water resources if just
one component of the system does not work properly. It is extremely important that
technicians pinpoint and fix problems as soon as they arise.

Regular maintenance can ensure that irrigation systems run as efficiently as possible.
In addition to complete monthly system checks, weekly visual checks can ensure that
technicians identify potential problems before they cause significant damage.

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 What I Have Learned
Answer Briefly. Write your answer in a piece of paper.
1. How do we install the pipes for irrigation in our farm?
2. In your own idea, can you recommend tips on how irrigation installation is done?
3. As owner of farm crops, what is the first thing you will do before installing the
irrigation pipes in your farm?

What I Can Do
On a piece of paper, answer the following in a paragraph form.
1. Make your own step by step discussions on how irrigation in your farm will be
installed.
2. In protecting our environment, what will you consider in installing the irrigation
of the farm?
3. How will you determine if your plants are under watered and overwatered?

Assessment

Directions: Choose the letter of the best answer. Write the letter of the correct answer
on a separate sheet of paper.

1. The deeper the pipe, the less likely it is to be damaged.

C. assembly PVC pipe C. lateral pipes and tubes
D. barbed fittings D. locking fittings
2. This valve is normally buried in a valve box and should be tested periodically
to make sure it remains operational.
C. backflow prevention device C. point of connection
D. mainlines D. valves
3. These are the guide on drainage pipes installation except one.
A. buy pipes with cheaper price
B. determine the service line pipe
C. determine the soil type
D. sketch the farm location
4. Devices that interface with controllers, shutting down an irrigation system
when water is not needed.

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 A. drip valve assembly C. filter
B. environment sensor D. pressure regulator
5. Most low volume irrigation systems are designed to operate at pressures below
that of the typical water supply.
A. drip valve assembly C. filter
B. environment sensor D. pressure regulator
6. Low volume systems include emitters with small openings that can easily
become clogged.
A. drip valve assembly C. filter
B. environment sensor D. pressure regulator
7. Each zone has a drip valve assembly contained within a valve box.
A. drip valve assembly C. filter
B. environment sensor D. pressure regulator
8. These keep the watering schedule that is programmed into the controller in
the event of a power outage.
A. annual system maintenance C. monthly system maintenance
B. daily maintenance D. semi-annual system maintenance
9. The backflow preventer keeps the water from returning to the drinking water
side after it has moved into the irrigation system.
A. annual system maintenance C. monthly system maintenance
B. daily maintenance D. semi-annual system maintenance
10. In running irrigation at night problems are often undetected.
A. annual system maintenance C. monthly system maintenance
B. daily maintenance D. semi-annual system maintenance
11. The deeper the pipe, the less likely it is to be damaged.
A. assembly PVC pipe C. lateral pipes and tubes
B. barbed fittings D. locking fittings
12. This occurs when the pressure in the irrigation system (downstream) is
greater than the pressure in the water supply (upstream).
A. back pressure C. mainlines
B. back-siphonage D. valves
13. These are the guide on drainage pipes installation except one.
A. buy pipes with cheaper price
B. determine the service line pipe
C. determine the soil type
D. sketch the farm location
14. Devices that regulate the flow of water in an irrigation system.
A. backflow prevention device C. point of connection
B. mainlines D. valves
15. Water is murky and there is a ring of sediment around the jar.
A. clay loam soil C. loam soil
B. clay soil D. sandy soil

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References:
Best Horticultural Services.
Chapter 5. Irrigation System.
Construction Irrigation System. National Irrigation Administration. Diliman Quezon,
City

Do it Yourself Irrigation Planning and Installation Guide.

Highway Manual for Sustainable Landscape Maintenance.

Irrigation Maintenance: Maintaining, Troubleshooting, and Repairing

Irrigation System.

Methods and Techniques of Irrigation. Water Resource Engineering.

Philippine National Standard _Draft as of April 29, 2017 Code of Good Agricultural
Practices (GAP) for Fruits and Vegetables Farming.
Republic of the Philippines, Department of Environment and Natural Resources,
Environmental Management Bureau, Environmental Compliance Assistance Center.
Technology and Livelihood Education- Crop Production 10 Learner’s Material.
Department of Education-Instructional Materials Council Secretariat (DepEd IMCS)
Office Address: 2nd Floor Dorm G, Philsports Complex, Meralco Avenue, Pasig City,
Philippines 1600 Telefax: (02) 634-1054, 634-1072 E-mail Address: imcsetd@yahoo.com

Understanding and Installing Drainage System. Texas Agrilife Extension.

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