Appendix

Metric Conversion Table

(INCHES TO CENTIM ETERS)
(1 in ch, U.S. stan dard = 2.540005 centimeters)
The centimeter equivalen t to th e inch measurement is to th e nearest ten th in th is tex t. It is an acc epted gen- era l practice
to the nearest half- cen timeter for ma jo r measurements whe n using th e metric sys- tern of measurement exclusively.

FRACTIONS
IN CHES 0 1/16 1/8 1/4 3/8 1/2 5/8 3/4
0 0.0 0.2 0.3 0.6 1.0 1.3 1.6 1.9
1 2.5 2.7 2.9 3.2 3.5 3.8 4.1 4.4
2 5.1 5.2 5.4 5.7 6.0 6.4 6.7 7.0
3 7.6 7.8 7.9 8.3 8.6 8.9 9.2 9.5
4 10.2 10.3 10.5 10.8 11.1 11.4 11.7 12. 1
5 12.7 12.9 13.0 13.3 13.7 14.0 14.3 14.6
,,,--.. 6 15.2 15.4 15.6 15.9 16.2 16.5 16.8 17.1
7 17.8 17.9 18.1 18.4 18.7 19.1 19.4 19.7
8 20.3 20.5 20.6 21.0 21.3 21.6 21.9 22.2
9 22.9 23.0 23.2 23.5 23.8 24.1 24.4 24.8
10 25.4 25.6 25.7 26.0 26.4 26.7 27.0 27.3
11 27.9 28.1 28.3 28.6 28.9 29.2 29.5 29.8
12 30.5 30.6 30.8 31.1 31.4 31.8 32.1 32.4
13 33.0 33.2 33.3 33.7 34.0 34.3 34.6 34.9
14 35.6 35.7 35.9 36.2 36.5 36.8 37.1 37.5
15 38.1 38.3 38.4 38.7 39.1 39.4 39.7 40.0
16 40.6 40.8 41.0 41.3 41.6 41.9 42.2 42.5
17 43.2 43.3 43.5 43.8 44.l 44.4 44.8 45.1
18 45.7 45.9 46.0 46.4 46.7 47.0 47.3 47.6
19 48.3 48.4 48.6 48.9 49.2 49.5 49.8 50.2
20 50.8 51.0 51.1 51.4 51.7 52.1 52.4 52.7
21 53.3 53.5 53.7 54.0 54.3 54.6 54.9 55.2
22 55.9 56.0 56.2 56.5 56.8 57.2 57.5 57.8
23 58.4 58.6 58.7 59.1 59.4 59.7 60 .0 60.3
24 61.0 61.1 61.3 61.6 61.9 62.2 62.5 62.9
 acc epted gen- era l practice to measure
easurement exclusively.

7/8 Inches
2.2 0

4.8 1
7.3 2
9.8 3
12.4 4
14.9 5
17.5 6
20.0 7
22.5 8
25.1 9
27.6 10
30.2 11
32.7 12
35.2 13
37.8 14
40.3 15
42.9 16
45.4 17
47.9 18
50.5 19
53.0 20
55.6 21
58.1 22
60.6 23
63.2 24
777
 FRACTIONS
INCHES 0 1/16 1/8 1/4 3/8 1/2 5/8 3/4
25 63.5 63.7 63.8 64.1 64.5 64.8 65.1 65.4
26 66.0 66.2 66.4 66.7 67.0 67.3 67.6 67.9
27 68.6 68.7 69.0 69.2 69.5 69.9 70.2 70.5
28 71.1 71.3 71.4 71.8 72.1 72.4 72.7 73.0
29 73.7 73.8 74.0 74.3 74.6 74 .9 75.2 75.6
30 76.2 76.4 76.5 76.8 77.2 77.5 77.8 78.1
31 78.7 78.9 79.1 79.4 79.7 80.0 80.3 80.6
32 81.3 81.4 81.6 81.9 82.2 82.6 82.9 83.2
33 83 .8 84 .0 84.1 84.5 84.8 85.1 85.4 85.7
34 86 .4 86.5 86.7 87.0 87.3 87.6 87.9 88.3
35 88.9 89.1 89.2 89.5 89.9 90.2 90.5 90.8
36 91.4 91.6 91.8 92.1 92.4 92.7 93.0 93.3
37 94.0 94.1 94.3 94.6 94.9 95.3 95.6 95.9
38 96.5 96.7 96.8 97.2 97.5 97.8 98.1 98.4
39 99.1 99.2 99.4 99.7 100.0 100.3 100.6 101.0
40 101.6 101.8 101.9 102.2 102.6 102.9 103.2 103.5
41 104.1 104.3 104.5 104.8 105.1 105.4 105.7 106.0
42 106.7 106.8 10 7.0 107.3 107.6 108.0 108.3 108.6
43 109.2 109.4 109.5 109.9 110.2 110.5 110.8 111.1
44 111.8 111.9 112.1 112.4 112.7 113.0 113.3 113.7
45 114.3 114.5 114.6 114.9 115.2 115.6 115.9 116.2
46 11 6.8 117.0 117.2 117.5 117.8 118.1 118.4 118.7
47 119.4 119.5 119.7 120.0 120.3 120.7 121.0 121.3
48 121.9 122.1 122.2 122.6 122.9 123.2 123.5 123.8
49 124.5 124.6 124.8 125.1 125.4 125.7 126.1 126.4
so 1 27.0 127.2 127.3 127.6 128.0 128.3 128.6 128.9
51 1 2 9.5 129.7 129.9 130.2 130.5 130.8 131.1 131.5
52 132.1 132.2 132.4 132.7 133.0 133.4 133.7 134.0
53 134.6 134.8 134.9 135.3 135.6 135.9 136.2 136.5
54 137.2 137.3 137.5 137.8 138.1 138.4 138.8 139.1
55 139.7 139.9 140.0 140.3 140.7 141.0 141.3 141.6
60 152.4 152.6 152.7 153.0 153.4 153.7 154.0 154.3
7/8 Inches
65.7 25

68.3 26
70.8 27
73.3 28
75.9 29
78.4 30
81.0 31
83.5 32
86.0 33
88.6 34
91.1 35
93.7 36
96.2 37
98.7 38
101.3 39
103.8 40
106.4 41
108.9 42
111.4 43
114.0 44
116.5 45
119.1 46
121.6 47
124.1 48
126.7 49
129.2 so
131.8 51
134.3 52
136.9 53
139.4 54
141.9 55
154.6 60
 Form Measurement Chart
Circumference Measurements
Lower Torso (Skirt/Pant)
1. Bust: -- plus 2" ease       22. Abdomen arc:
2. Waist: - - plus 1" ease       23. Hip arc:
3. Abdomen: 24. Crotch depth:
4. Hip: - - plus 2" ease       25. Hip depth:
Upper Torso (Bodice) 26. Side hip depth:

5. Center length: F      ,B      27. Waist to ankle: Waist to knee: Waist to floor
6. Full length: F      ,B_ _ 28. Crotch length: Vertical trunk:
7. Shoulder slope: F_ B 29. Upper thigh: Mid-thigh:
8. Strap: F      ,B _ _ 30. Knee:
9. Bust depth: -- radius 31. Calf:
10. Bust span:
11. Side length:
12. Back neck:
13. Shoulder length:

14. Across shoulder: F      ,B_ _ 32. Ankle:

15. Across chest: Foot entry:
16. Across back: Form
.----...y"', 17. Bust arc: Form make and type      
18. Back arc:

19. Waist arc: F -- B Size Year

20. Dart placemen t: F               B
21. (not needed)
Arm Measurements (for Sleeve Dart)
Standard sleeve measurements are given on page 50.
Special Information
Set form to desired height and measure the following: .
C.F. waist to floor
C.B. waist to floor
C.B. neck to floor
o (Skirt/Pant)
F       B F              B
C.F. C.B.

e: Waist to knee: Waist to floor:

h: Vertical trunk:
Mid-thigh:

type      

ar
Personal Measurement Chart
Circumference Measurements Lower Torso (Skirt/Pant)
1. Bust: _ _, plus 2" ease       22. Abdomen arc: F      _, B
2. Waist: _ _, plus l" ease       23. Hip arc: F               B
3. Abdomen: 24. Crotch depth:

4. Hip:       , plus 2" ease       25. Hip depth : C.F.
26. Side hip depth: R

Upper Torso (Bodice) 27. Waist to ankle:

5. Center length: F       _, B F               B Waist to knee: Waist to floor:
6. Full length: F_ B 28. Crotch length:
7. Shoulder slope: F               B Vertical trunk:
8. Strap:

9. Bust depth:      , radius       29. Upper th igh : Mid-thigh:

10. Bust span: B 30. Knee:
11. Side length: 31. Calf:
12. Back neck: 32. Ankle:
13. Shoulder length: Personal Arm Measurements
14. Across shoulder: F      For the sleeve draft, see pages 50-52.
15. Across chest:
16. Across back:

17. Bust arc: 33. Overarm length:       36. Elbow, straight:      
18. Back arc: 34. Elbow length:       bent:
19. Waist arc: F      
Circum ference 37. Wrist:
20. Dart placement: F       _, B B 35. Biceps + 2":       38. Around hand:
21. Personal Dart Intake: 39. Cap height:_

Front: Locate model's size and record cap height in space 39. Half siz
Back: use the same measurements. (Add
1/8 inch for each size over 18.)
Measuring the Arm Size Cap Height
Circumference measurement 6 5 5/8
8            5 3/4             
10 5 7/8
12
Vertical measurement 6

14 6 1/8
16     6 1/4             
18
6 3/8
/- - (38)
Around
hand - Overarm length (33) (shoulder tip to wristbone)

- Elbo w length (34) (elbo w bone)

(36) Elb o w -
- st raig ht

(37) Wrist
-
 F      _, B
F               B

C.B.
L

or:
th:
nk:

rements
s 50-52.

36. Elbow, straight:      

bent:
37. Wrist:
38. Around hand:
39. Cap height:_

cap height in space 39. Half sizes will

Add

12 6

to wristbone)

one)
 Children's Measurement Recording Chart-3 to 6x and 7 to 14
Size:                        Height:                       Weight: Head circumference:         _
Circumference Measurements (Ease Not Included)
1. Bust or chest: F_ B F_ B F_ B
2. Waist:
3. Hip:
4. Center length:
5. Full length:
6. Shoulder slope:
7. Side length:

----------- 8. Shoulder length: F_ _,B

- F_ B F_ B
9. Across shoulder:
10. Across chest:
11. Bust or chest arc:
12. Across back:
13. Back arc:
14. Waist arc:
15. Hip arc:
16. Waist to hip:
17. Waist to knee:
ecording Chart-3 to 6x and 7 to 14
Head circumference:         _
ot Included)
18. Waist to ankle:
19. Waist to floor:
20Upper th igh:
21. Knee:
22. Calf:
23. An kle:
24. Foot entry:

25. Trunk length:

26. Crotch length:
27. Crotch depth:
28. Overarm sleeve length:
29. Biceps:
30. Wrist:
Hand entry:
31. Cap height:
(sleeve draft, see pages 693-694)
 Cost Sheet
Date _ _ _ _ _ Division                                                    Season Style #                                               _
Fabric resource 1                                            Pattern                                              Selling$                                          _
Width                      "Price _ _ _ _ _ Content                         Colo rs                           Markup % _ _ _ _ _ _
Ship weeks                       Salesperson _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ #                                Delivery                                      _
Fabric resource 2 _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Pattern _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Sizes _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

Width                   "Price         Co n ten t                        Pattern                        O/P $      

Ship weeks Salesperson #                                          _
Estimate Actual Pr ic e Est . Total Act ual
Total
I. MATERIAL

Freight
SKETCH
Total Material Cost                   
Estimate Actual Price Est. Total Actual
Total
II. TRIMMINGS
Buttons

Pads
Embroider y
Belts
Zippers
Ela stic

Send out
%
SWATCH
Total Trim Cost                     
Estimate Actual Est. Total Act ual
Total
III. LABOR Pr ic e
Cutting

Marking
Grading
Sewing
Bag/label
Trucking
%

Total Cost                              

M/ U %                                
Re1nacks _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
                             _
                            _
%_ _ _ _ _ _
                              _
_ _ _ _ _ _

M/U % _ _ _ _ _
                               _

SKETCH

SWATCH
Pattern Record Card
STYLE#                      
SIZE RANGE YARDAGE DATE

TRIM
ZIPPER
BUTTONS
BELT
SCARF

OUTSIDE WORK
PATTERN PIECES SELF
Trace shaded area and

traced sleeve.
SLEEVE (HALF SIZE)
JOIN LOWER SECTION TO SLEEVE
WRIST LEVEL
 SECTION HERE

JOIN LOWER
 JOIN LOWER

BODICE FRONT (HALF SIZE)

•
HORIZONTAL BALANCE LINE
BODICE BACK (HALF SIZE)
                   
YARDAGE DATE

TRIM

DE WORK
SKIRT FRONT (HALF SIZE)
SKIRT BACK (HALF SIZE)
 B

BODICE
BA
 SLEEVE {QUARTER
SIZE)
CK {QUARTER
SIZE)

BODICE FRONT
""'1
e '
"" '
:
s:,_
-
°
:s

"
'
) )
)
,.-, r     

BODICE FRONT
(QUA

SKIRT BACK (QUARTER SIZE)

SKIRT FRONT (QUARTER SIZE)
RTER SIZE)
"'

-
TORSO FRONT (QUARTER SIZE)
• I

I
TORSO BACK (QUARTER
SIZE)
FRENCH
CURVE
5

CONTOUR PATTERN
(HALF SIZE)
BACK CONTOUR PATTERN
7
 Bibliographic Credits
Sewing for the Apparel Industry
ISBN 0 -321-06284 -1
Claire Schaeffer Prentice Hall, Inc.
Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458 1 (800) 526-0485
Fabric Sewing Guide (updated edition) Claire Schaeffer
Consignment title (AAT-5 ) Fairchild Publication, New York 1
(800) 932 -4 724
Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing The Reader's Digest
Association (Can ada) LTD Mon treal- Pleasantv ille, New York
ISBN : 0-88850-247-8
1 (800) 234-9000
graphic Credits
Classic Tailoring Technique
A construction guide for women's wear Roberto Cabrera/Patricia
Flaherty Meyers Fairchild Publication, New York
Library of Congress Catalog Number 84-80058 ISB : 1-87005-
435-X
GST R 133004424
1 (800) 932-4724
Fundamentals of Men's Fashion Design
A guide to casual clothes
Edmund B. Roberts and Cary Onishenko Fairchild Publication,
New York
ISBN: 1-87005-514-3
Library of Congress Catalog Number 85-70375 GST R 133004424
1 (800) 932-4724

796
 Index
A blouson foundation, 138-140
Accordion pleats, 277 with increased fullness, 140
Accordion pockets, 388-389 mod ified , 139
Action pleat, back yoke with, 146 to dart leg, 134
---------- Activewear for dance and exercise, design variations, 137
with added fullness/gathers , 624-643 flared skirts, 238-245. See al
-------
bodysuits, 624-634 Skirts
in childrenswear, 768-770
formula for, 131 with inverted box pleat, 144 correcting pattern to improve
gathers on styl
fit, 627
identifying, 131
design variations, 630-634 plotting pattern, method for, 131 Bal
foundation, 624-626 types of, 130 Bateau neckline, built-up , 202-203 with high-neck
Alignment, perfect/imperfect, 39 B
631-632 A-line
Lycra sleeve draft, 628-629 cape, 520-521 for c
no-side-seam, 628 flared skirt, 238-239 Bell-bottoms,
notching guide, 626 princess dress, 402-403
one-piece, 629 All-around pleated skirt, 280 Belt loo p s, pants, 576 with scooped neck an
All-in-one bias dresses, 444-445 Bermud
cutouts, 630 American Society for Testing and in childrenswear, 759 separated, 633
Materials (ASTM), 24
sti rrups , 634 Apparel product deve lo pment, 8
tights, 634 Arrnhole(s) mak i n
leotard, 635-643 adjusting for cap ease, 55 nature of, 20
all-in-one, 639 cowls, 221-222 Bias-cut
in childrenswear, 772-773 drafting, 35, 37 a
colo r-blo ck design for, 639- 640 exaggerated, 364-366
bias stretch, reducing, 434 correcting pattern to improve fitting, 40-41
desig
fit, 638 princess styleline, 122-124
design variations, 641-643 setting sleeve into, 57 nature of, 434 foundation, 635-637
sleeve to, 53-59

with raglan sleeve, 641-642 lowered sleeves with, 332

tank , basic, 643 Asymmetric darts, 109-112
Added fullness (Principle #2), Asymmetric radiating gathers,
130-140 266-267
along princess line, 132 Asymmetrical line , 18
around neck band, 136 Awl, 3, 4
 B
Back n eck dart , 81
Back yoke
with action pleat, 146
flared skirts, 238-245. See also
144-145
s, 624-634 Skirts
basic, 143
correcting pattern to improve
gathers on style dart, 135
Baggy pant, 581
identifying, 131 Balance, 18
ng pattern, method for, 131 Balance line terms, 18
kline, built-up , 202-203 with high-necked halter top,
nment, perfect/imperfect, 39 Batwing dress, 339
e Bell sleeves, 318
0-521 for childrenswear, 698
239 Bell-bottoms, in childrenswear,
princess dress, 402-403 757-758
o p s, pants, 576 with scooped neck and
bias dresses, 444-445 Bermuda shorts, 593, 595
wear, 759 separated, 633
Materials (ASTM), 24 Bias, 15
Apparel product deve lo pment, 8 Bias cut
mak i ng patterns for, 209
ease, 55 nature of, 209. See also Cowls
222 Bias-cut dresses, 434-446
g, 35, 37 all-in-one, 444-445
to improve fitting, 40-41
design variations, 446
princess styleline, 122-124 fabric
of, 434 foundation, 635-637 adjusting
sleeve to, 53-59 selections for, 434
797

introduction, 434
Madeleine Vionnet, 434
patternmaking for, 434
slip dress with slinky skirt,
435-440
adjusted side seam, 440
Bias-cut dr esses, Continued C
slip dress with slin ky skirt, Caftan, 348
Contin ued Cap ease, 50
c utting, 438 adjusting armhole to accommodate, 55
grai nline placement , 437 test fit, 439 determin i ng, 53 increase or decrease, 59
twist bodice with slinky skirt , 441-443 Cap sleeves, 312
Bib jumper, in ch ildrenswear, 715 Bib overa l for ch ild renswear, 699
l, in chi ldrenswea r, 766 Biceps width, 56 Cape effect, with parallel da rts , 107 Capes, 520-
Bifurcated, de fini tion , 544, 545 523
Bi kini , 646, 656-665. See also under A-line, 520-521
Swimwear flared, 522-523
in child ren swear, 775-776 Bishop sleeves Capr i pants, 593, 596 in children swear, 759
basic, 333-34 Cascades, 289-299. See also unde r
exaggerated, 335 Skirts
Blending, 13 Center front bust cluster, 102 Center front depth,
Blouse foundations, 448-449. See also Shirt s 466
Blouson found at io n , 138-140. See also Add ed Cent er front neck and waist dart, 91 Center fro
f ulln ess nt neck dart, 72
Bodic e Cen ter fro nt waist dart, 70-71 Ch ildr enswea r.
drafting, 34-38 See also under
fitting , 39 specific entries
trueing, 47 introduction to, 678- 681
yo kes for, 142-146 Bodice cowl, 208 Body scan fashion references, 680-681
n i ng, 8 inspiration for, 680
Bodysuits, 624-634. See also under Activewear size categories, 679
for dance and exercise sizing methods, 679-680 Chin ese collars, 189-
in child renswear, 768-770 with sleeves, 770 190
tan k-to p, 769 Circles, 289-299. See also und er
Boning, for strap les s garmen ts, 427, 430 Skirts
Bound butto n ho le s, 369 Bo win g, 15 Circular hemline sle eves, 317-318
Box pleats, 277 Circumference measurem ent s, 27 Clown pant,
i nverted, 279, 282- 284 back yoke with , 144 592
Box-fitted sil houette dress, 399,400 Clusters, dart, 98-102
Bra cups for swimwear, 674-675 Bra-top empire Coat and sleeve foun datio n, in child renswea r,
fou ndatio n, 416, 740-744
420-421 Coats. See Jackets and coats Co llar edge, 176
Breakpoint, 466 Collar stand , 176, 466
Bu ilt -u p necklines, 200-203. See also Collars, 176- 197
Neck lin es all-in-o ne colla r an d stand, 194 for childr
built-up bateau, 202- 203 enswear, 696 classificatio ns, 177
stovepipe neckline, 200-202 Bust, fitting proble with deep, open neckline s, 188 design variat io
ms and ns, 19 7 introduction, 176
soluti on s, 424-425 Buttons and buttonholes, mandarin , 189-190 Peter Pan , 182-184 flat roll,
368- 371 182 , 184
extens ions, 369 hidden closures , 459 4 to 1 rule, 182
place ment guide, 370-371 types of, 369 with 1/2-inch sta nd (partia l-roll), 182,184
with 1-inch sta nd (full- roll), 182 , 183
prin cipl e, 182 roll, 195-196 turtle neck, 195
wi th c u ta wa y n ec k, 196
sail o r, 185-187 basic, 185-186
with extens i o n, 186 wit h inset, 187
shirt colla r, basic, 178-181
in creasing collar width , 180 fit problems ,
181
fold ed, 180
straight, 178
undercollar, 179
variations, 180
with stand, 191
stand and roll types, 177
stand away from basic neckli ne and, 193
terms, 176
Com puter co m panies, 8
Co ntour Guide patterns, 158- 165 guid elines,
159-162
how to use, 163-165 prepari ng, 158
Co ntour pant with creaselin e flare, 590
Contoured cuffs, 310
Co n touring (Pri nc ipl e #3), 156-174 Co
ntour Gu ide patterns, 158-165
guidelines, 159-162 how to use, 163-165
preparing, 158
designs, 156
empire, class ic , 156, 160, 166-169 with
shirred midriff, 168-169
figure vs. basic garment, 157 fitting prob lems,
157 halters, 174
off- shou ld er designs, 172- 173 surp lice
(wrap) designs, 170-171
Cost sheet, 10
Covera ll, 601 Cowl sleeves, 329 Cowls, 208-
228
back, 218- 20
high-back cowl, 218-219 lo w-back cow l, 220
mid-b ack cowl, 220 bodice, 208
deep, 216-217
d rape , fit ting, 210 exaggerate d, 225-226 high
relaxed, 211-212 inset, 227-228
low, 215
mid-depth, 213-214
one-piece arm hole, 221-222 pattern, correct i
ng, 210 pleated, 223-224
sho uld er, 223-224 twistin g, 209
types of, 208
re scent-sha ped, extended cap sleeves, 325-
326
 --------- Crop top with muscle sleeve, 621 French dart, 74
---
Crosswise grain, 15 mid-shoulder dart, 73
Crotch, 545 process, 70
in swimwear, finishing, 673 slash-spread technique, two-dart for childrenswear, 684-694 Crotch extensions, 546, 547
series, 85-88, 92 basic patterns set, 689-690 Cuffs, 308-11. See also Sleeves mid-armhole and wais
darts and dart equivalents,
contoured, 310 mid-shoulder and waist dart, 87 691-694

French, 309 waist and side dart, 85-86 form, measuring , 684-686
roll-up, 31 test fit, 65 Standard Measurement Chart for
self-faced, 309 two-dart series, 85-91 girls, 688
shirt, basic, 309 working patterns, 64 Standard Measurement Chart for
Culottes, 546,547, 550-551
cap sleeves, 324 boys and girls, 687
box-pleated, 564-565 Dartless top foundation, in completion of pattern, 60-61 with long, wide-sweeping
childrenswear, 720-721 dress foundation, basic, 32-42. See
hem lines, 565 Dart(s), 13 also Dress foundation
Curve rulers, 2
asymmetric variations, 112 seamless working patterns, 59
Curved darts, asymmetric, 111 in childrenswear, 691-694 sleeve, basic, 49- 59. See also Sleeve

dart angle, 84 test fit, preparing patterns for,

D equivalents, 66, 94, 98-102, 118 47-48
Dart equivalent, 66, 94, intake chart, 42 Drawstring sleeve, for 98- 102, 118 reasons for, 33
childrenswear, 701

in childrenswear, 691-694Darts, designing with, 94-115 Dress foundation, basic, drafting, Dart flange, 147 asymmetric, 10
32-42
Dart leg, added fullness to, 134 curved, 111 armhole, 40-41

Dart manipulation (Principle #1), radiating, 109-110 bodice , 34-39

64-92 variations, 112 creation of, 33 applying, 66 clusters a nd equivalents,

chart, 42

,---------._ back neck dart, 81 98-102 description of, 33

design analysis, patternmaking center front bust cluster, 102 m

principles and, 64-65 dart cl uster, 99 necessary adjustments, 46

design patterns, introduction to pleat cluster , 100 neckline, 40

(Principle #1), 66 shoulder cluster, 101
dart locations, charting, 67 tuck-dart cluster, 100 skirt, 42-46
additional information , 68 waist cluster , 98-99 Dre

completion of dart, 68-69 flares, 95 childrenswear, 708-717. See

flare skirts, 242-243. See also Skirts gathers, 96-97 also Shift dress; Tent

introduction, 64 graduated, 103 foundations

patternmaking techniques, 64, 66 i ntersect ing, 113-115
waistline seams,
pivotal-transfer, 66, 75-79 design variations, 115 394-413

slash-spread and overlap, 66, with gathers, 114 box-fitted silhouette, 399, 400

70-74 to waist, 113 dress categories, 399

patternmaking terms, 65 introd uct ion , 94 empire foundation, 406- 40 7

pivotal-transfer technique, single- parallel, 105-118 jumper , 410

dart series, 66, 75-79, 82 cape effect, 107 knit dress designs, 399

mid-neck dart, 75-76 darts at neck, 106 panel dress foundation, 404-405
side dart , 77 design variations, 108
patternmaking problems, 411-413
mid-armhole dart, 78 French darts, 105 gathers crossing dart areas, 411

shoulder-tip dart, 79 pleats, 95 stylelines crossing dart areas, 412

pivotal-transfer technique, two- radiating, 104 stylized one -pie ce front, 413
dart serie s, 89-91, 92 tuck-da rts, 95
princess-line foundation, 401-403
mid-neck and waist dart, 89 Deep-cut square armhole, 364 A-line, 402-403

shoulder-tip and waist dart, 91 Department store standards, 24 sheath, 399, 400

self-evaluat ion test, 82-83, 92 Design analysis, 64-65 shift, 399, 400

consistency of dart angle, 84 Design pattern, 65, 66 shirtmaker dresses, 399

proof of principle #1, 84 Design specifications sheet, 12 tent foundation , 408-409

shoulder dart, 80 Designing with darts. See Darts, torso foundation, 394-98. See also

----------- single-dart series, 70-79 designing with Torso foundation

-
slash -spread technique, single-dart Detail location , 19 Drop shou lder designs, 338,
series, 66, 70-74, 82 Digitizer , 9
360-363

center front neck dart, 72 Dirndl skirts, gathered, 247 casual, 362

cent er front waist dart, 70-71 Dolman sleeve, 342 draft, 361-362
 Double knits, 612
Double-breasted jacket, 482
Drafting basic pattern set, 32-61
ar, 684-694 Crotch extensions, 546, 547
mid-armhole and waist dart, 88

ing , 684-686
easurement Chart for
Chart for
Culottes, 546,547, 550-551 Darted

pattern, 60-61 with long, wide-sweeping

Curve rulers, 2

reasons for, 33

flange, 147 asymmetric, 109-112

clusters a nd equivalents, dart intake

nter front bust cluster, 102 measurement, 32

houlder cluster, 101 reasons for darts, 33

t cluster , 98-99 Dresses and jumpers in

i ntersect ing, 113-115 Dresses without

design variations, 108

eas, 411

tuck-da rts, 95

0-74, 82 Digitizer , 9
Drop shoulder designs, Continued with gathered waist, 246 slin ky skirt, 248-249
ot her designs based on raglan foun dat io n, 363 12-gore graduated, 259-260
variations, 363 Flat patternmaking, 5, 64. See also
E Pattern making
Elastic, use of, 672-673 Flex rul e measurement, 54 Foundation, of
Elastic waist band, in childrenswear, 751-752 pant, 547
Elbow dart, 307 4 to 1 rule, 182. See also Colla rs
Em pi re foundation, 406-407 Empire, classic, French cuffs, 309
156, 160, 166-169 French dart, 74 parallel, 105
with shirred midriff, 168-169 Em pire dre ss, in Front yoke, basic, 142
childrenswear, Fu ll-circle skirt, 292-294
711-713 Full-figure swi mwear, 646, 669-671.
Equa l fullness, 130 Equa li zing, 13 See also und er Swimwear Fu lln ess, types of,
"Euclid of fashion," 434 Exaggerated arm ho les, 130. See also
338, Added fullness
364-366 G
deep-cut square armhole, 364-366 Gathered crescent sleeves, 326 Gathered should
F er, 172-173 Gathered skir ts, 268-269
Fabric memory, 610, 612 in childrenswear, 704 ci rcular , 299
Fabric terms, 15 Gathered waistlines, skir ts with, 246-249. See
Fabric width, 272 also Ski rts
Facings, 19, 372-75 Gathers, 96-97
combi ned, 372, 375 asym metr ic radiating, 266-267 crossing dart
common, 372 areas, problem
cuto ut arm hole, 374 of, 411
for cutout necklines and armholes, 373-375 on sty le dart, 135
fold-back, 372 Godets, 285-286. See also Skirt s Gored skirts,
scoo p-necklin e, 374 separate, 372 250-262. See also
shirt, 457- 458 stitched, 372 V-neck, 373 Skirts
Farmer's uniform, 578-580 4-gore flared, 250
foundation draft, 578 variation, 579-580 6-gore, 251-253
Fashio n industry, histo ry of, 7 Filling stretch, 8-gore, 251-253
612 10-gore pleated, 254-256 12-gore, 257-258
First pattern, 6 gra duated, 259-260 zigzag, 261-262
Flang es, 147-151 Gorge, 466 Graduated darts, 103
dart flange, 147 design variat ions, 151 inset, 150 Graduated-length hemline, circular skirt with ,
to waist, 148-149 301- 302
Flare, 95 Gra i n, 15
cape, 522-523 pant Gra i n lin e, 16-17 Grunge pant, 582
contour pant with creaseline flare, 590 Gussets, kimono with, 349-352
with flared leg, 591 H
Flared skirts, 238-245, 270-271. See also Skirts Half-circle skirt, 297
A-lin e, 238- 239 Half-circle sleeves, 317 Ha lters, 174
basic, 240-241 Hammer baggy pants, in ch ildr enswear, 754
in child rensw ear, 703 4-gore, 250 Handkerchief hem, 300
Hard paper, 4
Hemlines, uneven, skirts with, 300-302. See also
under Skirt s
High-waist pant, 584
Hoods, 524-530
contoured, 524- 528
dartless, 527
lo ose, 529-530
measuring for hood draft, 524 Horizontal
balance lin e (HBL),
18 , 27
Ho rizontal li ne, 18 Horizontal meas uremen ts,
28
I
Inseam, 545
Insert pockets, with hidden side seam, 391
I nse rt ed pockets, 383, 385-386. See also
Pockets
Inset bands, 204-205 rounded, 204
variations, 205
Inset, flange, 150
Interfacing, 467, 506
applying, 508-509 I nterlining , 467
Int ersecting darts, 113-115 design variations, 115
with gathers, 114
to waist, 113
Inv e rted pleats , 144, 277, 279,
282-284
J
Jacket and coats, in childre nswea r,
735-744. See also under Tops, in ch ild renswea r
Jack ets and coats, 466-518
a ppl yin g interfacing, 508-509 assem bling ,
510- 517
co nstruct io n, 503 design vari ations, 483
double-breasted, 482 eval uating fit of, 518
foundations, 466 , 468 lape l designs, 474-481
basic notch, 474-477
lo w-notch, 474, 478-479
portrait collar, 474, 480-481
li nin g seam allowance a nd , 507 mannish
foundation, 492-501
coll ar and lapel styles for, 497-499
d raf t, 492
one-piece, 500-501
one-piece sleeve, 493-494 three panel style, 502
transferring dart to neckline, 500 two-piece sle
eve, 495-496
shawl foundation, 484-487 collar variat io ns, 485
with separated und e rcollar and facing, 487
wide collars, 486
,..--..     
,,---..,._

,.----..._
Knit dress designs, 399 Lining, 467, 505, 515-517
Knit foundation, in childrenswear,
Neckline edge, 176 Little-boy legline swimwear, 646,
Ne
728-731 666-668. See also under
built-up, 200-203 Knit top foundations, 616-622 Swimwear

bateau, 202-203
crop top with muscle sleeve, 621 Loo ps, 369
stovepipe, 200-202 dartless firm knit, 618 Low-notch lapel, 4

for collars, 188, 193

 sleeves, 469-473 dartless stretchy knit, 616-618
Lycra, 610, 612
grading, 470-471
knit top, 622 knit sleeve, in childrenswear, 770
tailored two-p iece , 472- 473
oversized, 619-620 sleeve draft, 628-629
style jacket, 488-491 types of, 616
terms and definitions, 466-468 Knits- stretch and shrinkage M
three panel style, patterns for, factors, 610-614 Machine-stitched butt o nho les, 369
504-506 classification of, 612

Maillot, 646, 647- 655. See also under

Jamaica shorts, 593, 595 doub le knit, 612 Swimwear
in childrenswear, 759 moderate-stretch, 612 in ch ildrenswear, 774 Jeans, 546,547, 557-561
nylon tricot, 612 Mandarin collars, 189-190
in childrenswear, 749-750 rib, 612 Manila paper, 4
western, 755-756 stable (firm), 612 Mannish jacket, 492-502
dartless, 560 stretchy, 612 Marker maker, 6
jumpsuit foundation, 599 supe r-stretch, 612 Marking pape r, 4
pockets, 386-387 introduction, 610 Measurement taking, children,
variations of fit, 561 Lastex, 612 684- 694
with V-yoke, 585-589 Lycra, 610, 612 Measurements, 22-30, 32- 42. See
Jumpers, 410 stretch and recovery factor, also Model form and in childrenswear, 708-717. See also
610, 614 measurements
Shift dress; Tent foundations gauge, 611 Measuring tape, 3 bib, 715 fab
memory, 610, 612 Metal weights, 3
tan k-to p, 716 two-way stretch, 610 Mid-armhole and waist dart, 88
torso, 717 Knock-off copying ready-made
Mid-armho le dart, 78 Jumpsuit foundations, 598-601. See designs, 532-542
Mid- neck and wais
also under Pants introduction, 532
Mid-neck dart, 75-76 in childrenswear, 762-766 jackets, 538- 542
Midriff, 166-169
bib overall, 766 methods, 532
Mid-shoulder and waist dart, 87
with blousing, 764 pant types, 535-537
Mid-shoulder dart, 73
draft, 763 shirt types, 533-534
Military collars, 189-190
oversized, 764 T-tops, 532
Model form and measurements, tank-top, 765 22-30
great coverall, 601
L landmark terms, 25
jeans, 599
Landmark terms, for model measuring, 26-30
styled, 600
form, 25 circu mfe rence , 27
t rousers/s lacks, 598
Lantern sleeves, 321-323 ho rizonta l, 28
Lapels, 466 horizontal balance line (HBL), 27
K for jackets and coats, preparing form for, 26

Kaftan, 348 474- 481 Standard Measurement Chart,

Kick pleats, 278-279 basic notch, 474-477 30, 32

Kimono designs, 338, 339-352 low-notch, 478-479 strap, 29

basic, 339-341 portrait , 480-481 taking, 27

batwing dress, 339 Lastex, 612 ver tical, 29

caftan, 348 La tex, 624 standard ideal figure, 22-23

dolman, 342 Legline, 547 ASTM, 24

draft, 339-341 Leg-of-mutton sleeves, 328 department store standards, 24

dress, 347 Leg-a-mutton sleeves, for other, 24

with gussets, 349-352 childrenswear, 698 pattern industry standards, 24

one-piece combinations,
Lengthwise grain, 15 symbol key, 25
343-344 Leotards, 635- 643. See also under Model Measurement Chart, 32
without overarm seam, 344
Activewear for dance and Muslin, 15
short-sleeve, 341 exe rcise
with shoulder line seam, 343 in childrenswear
N
torso foundation, 345-346 with sle eve, 773
National Bureau of Standards (NBS), Knickers, in childrenswear, 761 tank-top, 772

measurements of, 24
Knife pleats, 277, 278 Lift-away pockets, 390
Neck band, fullness around, 136

,.----..._
Knit dress designs, 399 Lining, 467, 505, 515-517
Knit foundation, in childrenswear,
Neckline edge, 176 Little-boy legline swimwear, 646,
Necklines
728-731 666-668. See also under
built-up, 200-203 Knit top foundations, 616-622 Swimwear

bateau, 202-203
crop top with muscle sleeve, 621 Loo ps, 369
stovepipe, 200-202 dartless firm knit, 618 Low-notch lapel, 478- 479

for collars, 188, 193

Necklines, Con tinued with curved hemline, 591 wi th flared leg, 591
drafting, 40 grunge pant, 582
inset bands, 204-205 parallel darts at, 106 Nehru high-waist pant, 584
collars, 189-190 jean with V-yoke, 585-589 pleated trousers, 566-
Notch tool, 4 577 pull-on pant with self-
Notched collar, 466 casing, 583
Notched collar/lapel, 474-477 draft, measuring, 548-549
Notcher, 3 farmer's uniform, 578- 580
Notches, 307 foundation draft, 578
Nylon tricot, 612 variation, 579-580
0 finishing methods, 571-572
Off-shoulder designs, 172-173 One-sided fu lln fit problems/corrections, 602-607 foundations,
ess, 130 Outseam, 545 analysis of, 546 jumpsuit foundations, 598-601
Outs ide pockets, 383-384, 390. See also great coverall, 601
Pockets jean, 599
Oversized shirt and sleeve, in childrenswear, styled jumpsuit, 600
726-727 trouser/slack, 598 leg relative to, 545
p patte rn, completing, 562-563 pocket, sewing
Panel dress foundation, 404-405 Panel styleline, instructions for,
125-127 572-573
Pants, 544-607 seam allowance, 563 summary of foundations, 547
belt loops, 576 culo ttes, 546, 547, 550-551
bifurcated, meaning of, 544 in childr enswea r, jeans, 546, 547, 557-561. See also
746-761 Jeans
bell -bottoms, 757-758 derivatives, guide line slacks, 546, 547, 556
marking trousers, 546, 547, 556
for, 759-761 terminology, 545
hammer baggy pants, 754 introduction, 746 waist band, 577
jeans, 749-750 walk i ng and trueing, 563 zipp er, attaching, 574-576
knickers, 761 Para ll e l darts, 105-108 Patch pockets, 383
pleated trousers, 753 Pattern chart, 11
shorts, 760-761 Pattern development systems, 9 Pattern drafting, 5
slacks, 748 Pattern grain lin e, 17 Pattern information, 60, 61
trousers, 746-747 Pattern i nput, 9
variations, 753-758 Pattern manipulation, 65
waist band options, 751-752 western jeans, Pattern paper, 5
755-756 Pattern plot, 65
crotch extensions, 546, 547 Pattern production terms, 6 Pattern set
derivatives, 593-597 basic, 5
Bermudas, 593, 595 drafting, for ch ildrenswear, 684-694 Pattern making
capris, 593, 596 dresses, problems with, 411-413 techniques, 64, 66
design variations, 597 principles of, 64-65
developing, 594 terms, 5, 65
Jamaicas, 593, 595 names and terms, 593 pedal- tools, 2-4. See also Workroom
pushers, 593, 596 Pea coat, in childrenswear, 741-744 Peasant blo use,
shorts, 593, 595 463-464
Toreadors, 593, 596 Pedal pushers, 593, 596
designs, 564-67, 581-592 in childrenswear, 759
baggy pant, 581 Pegged skirts, 263
box-pleated culott e, 564-565 clown pant, 592
contour pant with creaseline flare, 590
culottes with long, wide­
sweeping hemlines, 565
Peplums, 274-276, 289-299. See
also under Skirts Perpendicular line, 18
Petal sleeves, 319-320
for childrenswear, 698
Peter Pan collars, 182-184. See also
Collars
for childrenswear, 696 Pin mark in g, 14
Pin tucks, 154
Pins, 2, 3
Pivotal point, 65
Pivot al-t ransfer technique, gathers and, 97
Pivota l-trans fe r technique of patternmaking,
66
si ngle-da rt series, 75-79, 82. See
also Dart manipulation two-dart series, 89- 91,
92
Plackets, 378-382
pointed, with facing-in-one, 378-380
slit opening with, 382 wing collar, 380-381
Pleat tucks, 152-153
Pleated trouser, 566-567
in childrenswear, 753
Pleats, 95, 277- 284. See also Skirts
all -around, 280-281
cluster, 100
inverted box, 282-284
kick, 278-279
pegged skirt with, 263
10-gore skirt with, 254-256 terminology, 278
types of, 277
Plumb line, 18
Pockets, 383-391
ac cord ion, 388-389 classification, 383 draft
for trousers, 568
with hidden side seam, 391 in-one with side
seam, 387 inserted seam, 385-386
jean, 386-387
lift-away, 390
outside, 383-384
stylized, 390
pants, sewing instructions for, 572-573
Portrait collar and lapel, 480-481 Princess
bodice foundation,
strapless, 416, 417-419 Princess line, fullness
along, 132 Princess style line
in childrenswear, 709-710
classic, 118-121. See also Stylelines armhole,
122-125
maillot, 652-653
Princess torso fou nda tio n, strapless, 416, 422-
423
 Princess-line foundation, 401-403 A-line, 402-
--------- Shawl collar lapel, 484-487. See also under
403 Jackets and coats
Pri nc ip le #1. See Dart manipulation Principl e #2. Sheath dress, 399, 400
See Added fullness Principle #3. See Contouring Shift dress, 399, 400
Product development, apparel, 8 Production patterns, 6 in childrenswear , 708-713 draft, 708
Puff sleeves, 314-316 empire with flare, 711-713 princess styleline ,
for childrenswear, 698 709-710
baby, 700 Shirt collars, for childrenswear, 696 Shirt sleeve,
Pull-on pant with self-casing, 583 in childrenswear,
Q 724-725
Quarter -cir cle skirt, 298-299 Quartering sleeve, 307 Shirtmaker dresses, 399 Shirts, 448-464
R casual shirt and sle eve foundat io n, 460-462
Radiating darts, 104 draft, 460-461 oversizin g, 462
asymmetric, 109-110 Radiating gathers, asymmetric, in childrenswear, 720-727. See also
266-267 Tops, in child re nswear foundation, basic, 722-
Radius Chart for circle skirts and cascades, 291 723
Raglan designs, 338, 353-360 oversize d, 726-727 collar s. See Collars cuffs,
armhole-princess, 358 308-311
in chil d ren swear, 732-734 design variations, 358-360 peasant blo use, 463-464
shirt and blouse foundat ion s, 448-451
basic, 449
,,--.._._ drop shoulder, 360 one-piece, 357 casual dartless, 449 oversized dart less, 449 design variations, 303
-----.. sleeve, leotard with, 641-642 yoke with flare shirt sleeve foundation, 451 yoke, 452-459 draped , with cascade wrap, 264-2
sleeve, 359 button or buttonhole closure, hidden, 459 245
Re covery factor of knits, 610 Re veres, 466 closure options , 455 draft, 452-453 added flare, 244-245
Right angle, 18 facing and band variations, 457-458 A-line, 238-239
Right-side-up, 19 one-piece sleeve placket, 456 sleeve hem line based on on e-dart patt ern, 243
Rise, 545 options, 454 4-gore , 250
Roll collars, 195-196. See also Shorts, 593, 594, 595 with gathered wais tline, 246 one
Collars in ch ildrenswea r, 759, 760, 761 Shoulder 242
Ro ll line , 176, 466 gathered, 172-173 slinky skirt, 248-249
Roll-up cuffs, 311 Ruffled sleeve, for in swimwear, finishing , 673 Shoulder cluster, with yokes, 270-271
childrenswear, 700 101 foundations, 231
Rulers, 2 Shoulder dart, 80 with gathered waistlines, 246-24
s Shoulder pads, 308 hipline, 248-249 computing for ga
Sai lo r collar, 185-187. See also Shoulder-tip and waist dart, 90 Shoulder -tip dirndl, 247 flar ed, 246
Collars dart, 79 with yokes, 268-269
for childrenswear, 696 Side dart, 77 godets, 285-286
Saucer sleeve, for childrenswear, 700 Scissors, 2 Side pleats, 277 basic, 285 variatio ns , 286
Seam allowance Single -dart series, 70- 79 Size categories for gored, 250-262
general guidelines, 60 for jacket and lining , 507 childrenswear, 679 4-go re , 250
Skewing, 15 6-gore , 251-253
in pant patterns, 563 8-gore, 251-253
Self-faced cuffs, 309 Selvage, 15 Skirt draf t, 42-46 Skirts
back, for suits and separates, 44 for 10-gore pleated, 254-256
Semi-yoke, fullness above bust, 133 12-gore graduated flare, 259-260
Set-in sleeves, 316 childrenswear, 702-705
designs, other, 702 261-262
Sew -th rough butto ns, 369 Shank buttons , 369 12-gore, 257-258
Shawl collar, 466 draft, basic, 692
high-waist, 234-235
introduction, 230
lengths, 230
low-waist, 233
flared, 703
gathered, with stylized waist band , 704
yoked circu lar, 705 fitt in g, 45- 46
front, 42-44
trueing , 47-48
Skirts, circles and cascades, 230- 303 asymmetr
ic radiating gathers,
266-267
circles, peplums, and cascades, 289-299
circle within circle, 290 form u la, 292
full-circle, 292-294
gathered, 299
grainline plac ement, 295 half-circle, 297
hemline ad justments, 295 parts of circle skirt,
290 quarter-circle, 298-299
Radius Chart, 291
terminology, 290
three -qu arter circle, 296 tool, 292- 293
two circles at waist, 299 darts, flexibility of, 232
design variations, 303
draped , with cascade wrap, 264-265 flared , 238-
245
added flare, 244-245
A-line, 238-239
based on on e-dart patt ern, 243 basic, 240-241
4-gore , 250
with gathered wais tline, 246 one-dart foundation,
242
slinky skirt, 248-249
with yokes, 270-271
foundations, 231
with gathered waistlines, 246-249 clinging
hipline, 248-249 computing for gathers, 246
dirndl, 247 flar ed, 246
with yokes, 268-269
godets, 285-286
basic, 285 variatio ns , 286
gored, 250-262
4-go re , 250
6-gore , 251-253
8-gore, 251-253
10-gore pleated, 254-256
12-gore graduated flare, 259-260 12-gore zigzag,
261-262
12-gore, 257-258
high-waist, 234-235
introduction, 230
lengths, 230
low-waist, 233
Skirts, circles and cascades, cap, 699
Continued dartless foundation, 697 design variatio ns, 699-701
pegged, with pleats, 263 pleats, 277-284 draft, basic, 693-694
all-around, 280-281 drawstring, 701
inverted, 282-284 foundation, basic, 72-23 leg-o-m u tton , 698
kick, 278-279 termino logy, 278 types of, 277 oversized, 726-727
tiers, 272-276 petal, 698
attached, 272-273 puff, 698
peplums, 274-276 ruffled, 700
separated, 274 saucer, 700
terms, 272 circular, 317-318
with u neven hemlines, 300- 302 with bell, 318
graduated-length hemline, ha lf- cir c le, 317 cowl, 329
301- 302 cuffs, 308-311 co ntoured , 310 French, 309
with hand kerc h ief hem, 300 waistband, basic, roll-up, 311
236-237 self-faced, 309
wrap, 287-288 sh ir t cuff, bas ic, 309 draft, 51-52
all-in-one, 288 dartless pattern, 313-314 elbow darts , 307
with side seam, 287 with yo kes, 268-271 with extended caps, 324- 327 crescent-shaped,
diagonal, with flared skirt, 270-271 extended cap,
with gathered skirt, 268-269 preparing zipper and 325-326
waistband, darted cap, 324 gathered crescent, 326 with vertical
235-236 pleat, 327
Slacks, 546, 547, 556 introduction, 306
in ch il drenswear , 748 jumpsuit foundation, for jacket and coat, 469-473. See also Jackets and
598 coats
Slash-spread tech niq ue, gathers and, 96 tailored two-piece, 472-473 la ntern, 321-323
Slash-spread techn iq ue of patternmaking, 66 leg-of-m utton, 328
singl e-dart series, 70-74, 82. See also Dart with lowered armhole, 332 Lycra , draft, 628-629
manipulation meas ur eme nt cha rt, 50 petal, 319-320
two-dart series, 85-88, 92 flared, 320
Sleeve-bodice combinations, 338-366. See also gathered, 320
specific entries plain, 319
drop shoulder, 338, 360-363 puff, 314-316 fullness at cap, 316 fullness at hem ,
exaggerated armholes, 338, 315
364-366 fullness at hem and cap, 316 raglan, in leotard,
ki mo no, 338, 339-352 raglan, 338, 353-360 641-642
Sleeves, 306- 335 set-in, 306
adjusting armhole to bodice, 40-41 shoulder pads, 308
basic, 49-59 spiral, 331
adjusting to armhole of bodice, 53-59 terminology, 49
cap ease, 50 var.iations, 331
hang and fit evaluation, 57-58 setting into wedding, 330
armhole, 57 Slinky skirt, 248-249
bishop, basic, 333- 334 slip dress with, 435-440 twist bodice with, 441-
exaggerated, 335 443
cap, 312 Slip dress with slinky skirt, 435-440
for childrenswear, 697-701 Slit opening with placket, 382
baby puff, 700
bell, 698
Slits, 369
Spandex, 612,624
Standard ideal figur e, 22-23 Standard
Measurement Chart, 30
for boys and girls, 687 for girls, 688
Standards, 24. See also Model form and
measurements
Stirrups, 624
Stovepipe neckline, 200-202 Strap
measuremen ts, 29 Strapless foundation, 416-
431
bra-top empire, 416, 420-421 construction
support for,
426-431
boning, types of, 427, 430 interconstruction:
light and
heavy weight, 427
und ersupport, patterns for, 428-431
contour guide pattern, use of, 416 fitting
problems and solutions,
424-425
i ntrod uction , 416
princess bodice, 416, 417-419 with gathered
panels, 419
princess torso, 416, 422-423 Stretch factor of
kn it s, 610, 614 Style jacket , 488-491
Styleline guidelines, 14
Stylelines, 118-127
armhole princess, 122-124 crossing dart areas,
problem of, 412 i nt rod uc tion, 118
panel , 125-126 variat ion s, 127
princess, classic, 18-21 design analysis, 118-
121
variations, 121
Stylized neckline, collar for, 188 Stylized one-
piece front, 413 Sunburst pleats, 277
Surplice designs, 170-171
Swimwear, 645-676
bikini, 646, 656-665 band eau top, 665 bottom
varia tions , 657 bra top with horizontal
styleline, 660 bra to ps, 661-663
in childrenswear, 775-776
foundations, 656
high-cut leg, 657
princess-line top, 658-659
strap variations, 659 strin g-a-long top, 664
top variations, 658-665
bra cups for, 674-675
in childrenswear, 774-776
crotch, fin ish in g, 673
ela stic, use of, 672-673
full-figured, 646, 669-671 with skirt front, 670- Navy pea coat, 741-744 Warp, 15
671 oversized shirt and sleeve, 726-727 raglan Warp stretch, 612 Wedding sleeves , 33
little boy legline, 646, 666-668 foundation, 732-734 15
slit legline, 667-668 shirt and sleeve foundation, basic, 722-723 Welt pockets, 383
variations, 667 shirt sleeve, 724-725 Western jeans, in childrenswear, 755-75
maillot, 646, 647-655 sleeve and coat foundation, 740 tights with, 771 Wing collar placket, 380-381 Working
asymmetric, 655 Toreador pants, 593, 596 in child renswea r, 759 5, 64
with bra lining, 650-651 in childrenswear, 774 Torso foundation, 394-398 seamless, 59
draft, 647-648 with inset bra, 654 princess, 652- contour guidelines, 398 Workroom, 2-19
653 draft , 394-396 apparel product development, 8-9
tank top, basic, 649 shoulder, finishing, 673 versions of, 396-397 balance line terms, 18 blending, 13
straps, attaching, 676 Torso jum per, in childrenswear, 717 Tracing cost sheet, 10
supplies and special information, 672-676 wheels, 3 dart, 13
types, 646 Trousers, 546, 547, 552-555 design specifications sheet , 12 equalizin
Symbol key, for model form, 25 Symmetrical in childrenswear, 746-747 fabric terms, 15-16
line, 18 pleated, 753 pattern chart, 11
T cutting patterns for, 569-571 jumpsuit foundation , pattern grainline, 17
Tag board, 4 Tailor's cha lk , 3 Tank top 598 pleated, 566-567 pattern paper, 5
in childrenswear, 731 pocket draft for, 568 True bias, 15 pattern production terms, 6 patternmaki
bodysuit, 769 finding , 210 terms, 6
jumper s, 716 Trueing, 14 patternmaking tools, 2-4
jumpsuit, 765 of basic pattern s, 47-48 of pant patterns, 562 functions of, 4
leotard, 772-773 T-tops, 532 pin and tape marking, 14 special inform
leotard design, 643 Tuck-darts, 95 19 sty leline guid elines, 14 trueing, 14
in child ren swear, 772-773 Tape, 3 cluster, 100 Wrap designs, 170-171
Tape marking, 14 Tucks, 152-154 Wrap skirts, 264-67, 287-288. See also
Tent foundation, 408-409 in·child re n swear, Turtle neck collars, 195 y
714-717 Twist bodice with slinky skirt, 441- 443 Yoke shirts, 452- 459. See also under
bib jum per, 715 draft, 714 Twisting, 209 Sh ir ts
tank-top jumper, 716 Two-dart series, 85- 91, 92 Yoked circular skirt, in childrenswear, 7
torso jumper, 717 Two-way stretch, 612 Yokes for bodice, 142-146 back yoke
variations, 715 u with action pleat, 146
Test fit, 47- 48, 65 Underlining, 467 with added fullness/gathers, 144-145
3-D modeling, 8 for strapless garments, 428-431 Unequal fulln ess, with inverted box pleat, 144 basic back
Three-quarter circle skirt, 296 Tiers, 272-276. 130 and
See also Skirts Tights, 634 V transfer, 14 3 basic front: slash and
with top, in ch ildrenswear , 771 Tools for patte Vertical line, 18 spread, 142
rnmaking , 2-3 Vertical measurements, 29 Vests, in childrenswear, design va riat io n s, 146
functions of, 4 739 V-inset cowl, 227-228 Vionnet, Mad eleine, 434 Yok es, skirts with, 268-271. See also
Tops, in childrenswear, 720-744 dartless V-neck halt er, 174 Skirts
foundation, 720-721 V-neck , collar for, 188 z
jacket foundation, 735-739 V-yoke, jeans with, 585-589 Zigzag 12-gore skirt, 261-262
cardigan, 738
draft , 735
w Zipper
Waist and side dart, 85-86 Waist band, pants, 577 pants, attaching, 574-576 preparing , wa
with notched collar, 736 sleeve modification,
Waist cluster , 98-99 Waistband and,
735
basic, 236- 237 235-236
vest , 739
knit foundation and sleeve, 728-731 preparing zipper and, 235-236
modified, 730
tank top, 731
5
etch, 612 Wedding sleeves , 330 Weft,

ckets, 383
jeans, in childrenswear, 755-756
llar placket, 380-381 Working patte rn,

, 59
om, 2-19
product development, 8-9
ine terms, 18 blending, 13
et, 10

pecifications sheet , 12 equalizing, 13

rms, 15-16
hart, 11
rainline, 17
paper, 5
production terms, 6 patternmaking

aking tools, 2-4

s of, 4
tape marking, 14 special information,
line guid elines, 14 trueing, 14
signs, 170-171
irts, 264-67, 287-288. See also Skirts

rts, 452- 459. See also under

ircular skirt, in childrenswear, 705

or bodice, 142-146 back yoke
on pleat, 146
ed fullness/gathers, 144-145
erted box pleat, 144 basic back: pivotal

14 3 basic front: slash and

142
riat io n s, 146
skirts with, 268-271. See also

2-gore skirt, 261-262

taching, 574-576 preparing , waistband

 GUIDE TO READING RULER INCREMENTS
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GUIDE TO READING RULER INCREMENTS
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