b

1
This pattern is an expansion pack for the Refer to page 45 for more pictures of the
original Orbit the Dragon pattern completed dragon.
(available at the same platform as this
expansion pack). The features in this To make your dragon like the picture,
pack are intended to replace some make all of the following pieces using
features in the original pattern. The the instructions in the original pattern:
supplies listed in this pattern are in
addition to supplies in the original Head
pattern. Horns (all 3)
Nostrils
EXPANSION PACK FEATURES Cheeks
Face fins Body
Wings Fins (all 7)
Fluted belly covering Legs
Open eyes Tail
Extra fins on the back 2
Written in US terminology 2.5mm hook (B or C)
Size: 22cm Tall Scissors
Difficulty: Intermediate Yarn sewing needle
Yarn weight: double knit acrylic (Light Worsted Stuffing (approximately 7g)
/ 8ply/ 11wpi) Pins with large head
Stitch markers

Working in the round (in a spiral)

Counting/marking stitches and rows Body Colour: 25g/50m
Using a stitch marker/running stitch marker Belly Colour: 12g/28m
Basic sewing Fin Colour: 2.7g/6.3m
Using an invisible decrease when you crochet Eye Black: 1.9g/5m
2 stitches together Eye White: 0.9g/2.3m
Changing colours Eye Colour, Dark: 0.2g/0.5m
Eye Colour, Medium: 0.2g/0.5m
The instructions for all of these techniques Eye Colour, Light: 0.5g/1.3m
can be found in the Amigurumi Tips booklet Wing/Paw/Cheek/Face Fin Colour: 9g/21m
included with this pattern. 3
 ASSEMBLY
Instructions are provided at the end of

R = Row/ Round the pattern on how to sew your dragon

SS = Slip stitch together. Assembling it without these
SC = Single crochet instructions may result in pieces not
HDC = Half double crochet fitting correctly.
DC = Double crochet
ch = Chain
WEAVING IN LOOSE ENDS
st = Stitch
On body parts that started with a magic
rem = remaining
tog = together ring, weave in your starting thread after
sk = skip working the first few rounds to secure it.
* = Section to be repeated
FLO = Front loop only STUFFING
BLO = Back loop only This is an important step that will greatly
influence the shape of your finished project.
Take your time and pay attention to the shape
of the pieces as you stuff them, moulding
Gauge is not critical with amigurumi, but them into the correct shapes, as pictured. This
it is important to keep your tension amigurumi should sit rigidly and be firmly
stuffed. Compact the stuffing firmly as you go,
uniform throughout this pattern in order
but do not overstuff the pieces. The stuffing
for the pieces to fit together correctly. shouldn’t be visible through your stitches.
The finished size of each piece is given at Insert small pieces of stuffing at a time to
every section. Check that your pieces are avoid lumps.
the correct size as you go.
COLOURS
Note that on this dragon, the belly colour is
Orbit is designed to sit in a rigid upright
not the same as the paw colour. In this
position. Using the recommended hook
version, the paw colour is also used for the
size and yarn weight will produce a flaps on the wings, and the tips of the face
rather tight mesh that will help make the fins.
horns and fins firm; it will make the legs
stiff enough to support the body and Use 3 shades of the exact same hue for the
help keep the wings up. coloured part of the eye. Choose a medium
colour of yarn, plus another one that is the
exact same colour but 2 shades lighter, and
another that is 2 shades darker.

HELPFUL TIPS “NEXT ST”

It is recommended that you read the In this pattern, when instructed to work into
the next stitch, this always refers to the next
extra notes throughout the pattern.
stitch that is immediately available to work
There are tips and information that will
into.
help you produce a finished piece most
similar to the picture. 4
Finished size: 60mm wide x 50mm long
Make 2 R1: Using Paw Colour, 6SC into a magic
ring. (6)
Continue working in the round.
R2-5: SC in each st around. (6)

Make 2 of each
Tie off, leaving a 5cm thread to be tucked
inside the fin.

R1-5: Same as Tube 1.

R6: SC in each st around. (6)

Tie off, leaving a 5cm thread to be tucked

inside the fin.

5
 Repeat on Tube 3. All 3 tubes are now
joined.
R1-6: Same as Tube 2.
R7: SC in each st around. (6)

Tie off, leaving a 5cm thread to be tucked

inside the fin.

R1: Join Body Colour with a SS at the 2nd

st on Tube 1.

SC in rem 3 sts on Tube 3. Repeat on

Tube 2 and 1. All the sts are now used up
and the tubes are rimmed by a round of
Body Colour. (18)
Tuck all the ends inside the tubes.

TIP: Use the back of a crochet hook to

help push the loose ends inside the
tubes.

Ch1. SC in same st. SC in next 2 sts.

Starting in the 2nd st on Tube 2, SC in
next 3 sts.

Continue working in the round.

R2-5: SC in each st around. (18)

Tie off, leaving a 30cm thread for sewing.

Do not stuff the fins or sew them closed.

6
Finished size: 150mm wide x 130mm long Use a running stitch marker so that your
Make 2 seam is easy to see – this will be vital at a
All loose ends will be worked in as you later stage of the wings. The marker
go, or tucked inside the wing should be placed directly before the 1 st
SC (after the ch1) on every row.
TIP: See the Amigurumi Tips booklet on
Make 2 how to use a running stitch marker.
NOTE: The seam of the tube must be
straight. To achieve this, all stitches will R1: On this row, when you make your
be worked in FLO. magic ring, leave a long end (40cm) for
sewing the wing to the body (make sure
this end is left outside of the tube). Using
Body Colour, 5SC into a magic ring. Join
with a SS into FLO of 1st SC. (5)

Continue working all sts in FLO, including

the SS. Work the 1st st of each new row
into the same st as the SS.
7
R2: Ch1. 2SC in each st around. Join with R14: SC in 1st 3 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in
a SS into the 1st SC. (10) last 3 sts. Ch1, turn. (8)
R3-23: Ch1. SC in each st around. Join R15-17: SC in each st across. Ch1, turn. At
with a SS into the 1st SC. (10) the end of R17, ch2. (8)
Tie off, leaving a 5cm thread to be tucked R18: DC in 1st st. HDC in next st. SC in
inside the wing. next 4 sts. HDC in next st. DC in next st.
Leave the running stitch marker in place. Ch2, turn. (8)
R19: DC in 1st st. HDC in next st. SC in
next 4 sts. HDC in next st. DC in next st.
(8)
Make 4
Do not tie off.

R1: Using Paw Colour, ch2. SC in 2nd ch

from hook. Ch1, turn. (1)
R2: 2SC into the same st. Ch1, turn. (2)
R3: SC in each st across. Ch1, turn. (2) SC AROUND THE EDGE
R4: 2SC in 1st st. SC in last st. Ch1, turn. TIP: See the Amigurumi Tips booklet on
(3) how to work into the sides of the rows, as
R5: SC in each st across. Ch1, turn. (3) illustrated in the following images.
R6: SC in 1st st. 2SC in next st. SC in last
st. Ch1, turn. (4) Ch1, SC around the post of the last DC.
R7: SC in each st across. Ch1, turn. (4)
R8: SC in 1st 2 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in
last st. Ch1, turn. (5)
R9: SC in each st across. Ch1, turn. (5)
R10: SC in 1st 2 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in
last 2 sts. Ch1, turn. (6)
R11: SC in each st across. Ch1, turn. (6)
R12: SC in 1st 3 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in
last 2 sts. Ch1, turn. (7)
R13: SC in each st across. Ch1, turn. (7)

8
SC in the space between the rows. SC into the starting ch1.

SC around the ch2. Working the loose end in as you go, SC in

the space between the rows 17 times.

SC in the space between the rows 17

times. (20 stitches up to this point) SC around the post of the next DC.

9
SC in the space between the rows.

Use 2 flaps. Counting backwards from

the last SC, place a stitch marker in the
FLO at the 20th st on Flap 1, and the 22nd
st on Flap 2. Lay the Flaps next to each
other, with Flap 1 on the right, so that the
stitch markers are lined up.

SC around the ch2. (21 more stitches up

to this point)

Insert hook through FLO on both marked

sts.

Total stitches: (41)

Tie off leaving a 5cm thread to be worked

in later.

10
Join Body Colour with a SS. Ch1, SC in Turn your workpiece.
same st.

Working the loose end of Flap 1 in as you

Remove stitch markers. go, SC into FLO both flaps for the next 20
Continue working into both FLO. sts. Join is now complete.
Working over the loose end as you go, SC
in next 19 sts. 2 flaps are now joined.

Ch2, SC in 2nd ch from hook.

Total stitch count: (41)

There should be 21 open stitches
remaining on the edge of each flap.

11
Tie off, leaving a 5cm thread to be tucked Start at R4 of the tube (this can also be
inside the wing. located by counting 20 rows from the
Repeat on the remaining 2 flaps. open end – it will be the 20th row).

Insert your hook through the same holes

as the running stitch marker, so that row
4 is now across your hook.
In preparation, turn the flaps so that Flap
1 is on the right (the SC edge will be right
side up). Leave 1 st open next to the
joining seam on Flap 1, then place a
stitch marker in the FLO of the next st
(this is the 20th st on Flap 1).

Join Body Colour with a SS. Ch1, make a

SC.

You are now going to work on the tube,

making a line of SC along the seam of the
tube. This line must be straight so if the
seam of your tube has spiralled around
the tube, please see the note at the
beginning of the TUBE section to
troubleshoot (page 7). 12
Insert your hook under the next row, Ch1. Working into FLO of the SC line on
through the same holes as the running the tube, and into marked FLO of Flap 1,
stitch marker again. Make a SC. SC in each st across. (20)

Working the loose end in as you go, SC in

next 18 rows in the same manner. (20)

Ch1, turn your workpiece.

In the same method as before, SC into
FLO on next 20 sts. Join is now complete.
Turn the tube so that the line of SC is on
the left. The loops facing you are now the Remove the running stitch marker.
Front Loops. Place it next to Flap 1. Do not tie off.

13
 SC in FLO of the 1 st left open on Flap 1.

Stuff the tube firmly in a sausage shape

to support the wing. Use the back of a
pencil to push small amounts of stuffing
down the tube and compact it.

Tuck the loose end inside the tube.

R1: Use a running stitch marker to mark SC into the last SC on the next flap join.
the beginning of this row. Ch1. Working
on the tube now, starting at the 1st st and
working into both loops as usual, SC in
each of the 10 sts around the open end
of the tube.

SC in FLO of the 1 st left open on Flap 2.

SC into the 1st SC on the flap join.

14
Working in FLO, SC in each st down the SC in FLO of the 1 st left open on Flap 1.
side of Flap 2. (20 sts)
Ch2, SC in 2nd ch from hook.

SC into the 1st SC on the next flap join

(make sure you work into the SC, and not
Turn your workpiece and then work in the 1ch made after the SC).
the loose thread from (Flap 2) as you go.
Working in FLO, SC in each st going back
up the side of Flap 2. (20 sts)
Place a stitch marker in your current
stitch.
SC in FLO of the 1 st left open on Flap 2.

Final stitch count: (59)

You now a have row of SC all the way
around the top of the wing.
Continue working in the round.

NOTE: It is not necessary to stuff the

wing any more.
SC into the last SC on the next flap join.
In row 2 you’ll be working 1 SC into every
stitch around the top of the wing,
starting by going around the tube and
then also working into the marked stitch
along the way.

R2: SC in next 15 sts. SC in marked stitch.

SC in rem 4 sts. (20)

15
R3: *SC in next 2 sts. SC next 2 sts tog.*
Repeat all around. (15)
R4: *SC in next st. SC next 2 sts tog.*
Repeat all around. (10)
R5: *SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat all
around. (5)

Tie off and sew closed.

The right wing is complete. Repeat to

finish the left wing, making 2 wings the
same.

16
Finished size: 110mm wide x 160mm
long
All loose ends may be tucked inside the R3: With a knot on your hook, SS into the
belly 1st DC after the ch2 (place the knot on
GAUGE: 9 rows x 13 sts in the same your hook first, then working into right
pattern as the belly covering should side of current row insert it in the DC and
produce a 6.5 x 6.5 cm block make a SS. Don’t pull it too tight as you’ll
need to work into it later).

The turning chains (ch1 and ch2) do not

count as stitches throughout this section.
Always work your first stitch into the first
available stitch from the previous row.

R1: Using Belly Colour, make a magic

ring. Ch2, 6DC into magic ring. (6)
R2: Ch2, turn. 2DC in each st across. Tie
off. Do not turn. (12)
17
SS in each st across. (12) R5: Ch2, turn. DC in each st across. Tie
off. Do not turn. (18)

R4: Ch2, turn. Work into BLO of each SS.

*DC in next st. 2DC in next st.* Repeat R6: With a knot on your hook, SS into the
all across. (18) 1st DC. SS in each st across. (18)
R7-20: Repeat rows 4-6, finishing with a
row of DC (as per R5). When working R4,
do not do the increases; the st count
remains 18 all the way. (18)

Do not tie off.

The belly covering has 7 full bumps.

pictured: current row completed, wrong

side facing.

18
SC AROUND THE EDGE Lay the belly covering over the body.
TIP: See the Amigurumi Tips booklet on Ch1, Insert your hook through both
how to work into the sides of the rows. layers, going into the 1st DC on the last
row of the belly covering, and the
marked stitch on the body.

Ch1. *SC around the post of the next DC.

SC in the space between the rows. SC
around the 2ch. SC in the space between Working through both layers, SS in each
the rows.* 7 times, finishing with a SC st across the belly covering, making sure
aroung the post of the last DC. you leave the loose end of the body
SC in magic ring. outside for sewing later. (18)
*SC around the 2ch. SC in the space
between the rows. SC around the post of Tie off, leaving a 60cm thread for sewing.
the next DC. SC in the space between the
rows.* 7 times
On the 7th repeat, finish with a SC around
the last 2ch. Roll a piece of stuffing into a sausage
shape the same size as a belly segment
Do not tie off. and place it in the segment. Repeat on
each segment, so that they are
individually stuffed to retain the fluted
shape.
On the body, count 9sts backwards from
the last SC. Mark this stitch.

19
Finished size: 50mm diameter

R1: Using Black yarn, 6SC into a magic

There are many colour changes in the
ring. Join with a SS into the 1st SC. (6)
eye. Each time you attach a new colour,
NOTE: The 1st st of each round is always
crochet over the tail of the new colour
worked into the same space as the SS.
and over the old colour thread, then
R2: Ch1. 2SC in each st around, in the
drop the tail of the old colour. Crochet
following colour pattern: 8 Black, 1 White,
over the new colour’s tail again on the
3 Black. Join with a SS into the 1st SC. (12)
next stitch to secure it, then drop the tail.
Do not crochet over all the threads as
you go – this will make the eye too bulky.
When you need to pick that colour up
again, leave some slack in the thread
under the eye so that it doesn’t pull on
the eye and distort it.

TIP: See the Amigurumi Tips booklet on

how to change colours.
20
NOTE: All the loose ends can be balled EYELID
up under the eye before sewing it to the
head, to stuff it and make it bulge slightly R5: Join Body Colour with a SS at 12th
from the head. White st. Ch1, SC in same st. SC in next 8
sts. SC into SS. SC in rem 15 sts. Join with
R3: Ch1. *SC in next st, 2SC in next st*. a SS into FLO. (25)
Repeat all around in the following colour
pattern: 3 Black, 1 Dark, 1 Medium, 5
Light, 1 Medium, 1 Dark, 2 White, 4 Black.
Join with a SS into the 1st SC. (18)

Cut all the coloured threads, keeping

only White and Black.

Continue working in FLO.

R6: Ch1, sk 1st st. SC in next st. *HDC in

next st. HDC next 2 sts tog.* 4 times. SC
in next st. Ch1. SS in next st. Leave 10
rem sts un-worked. (10)
R4: Ch1. *SC in next 2 sts, 2SC in next st*.
Repeat all around in the following colour
pattern: 4 Black, 15 White, 5 Black. Join
with a SS into the 1st SC. (24)

Tie off. Cut Black and White threads.

Tie off, leaving a 35cm thread for sewing.

21
 R4: Ch1. *SC in next 2 sts, 2SC in next st*.
Repeat all around in the following colour
R1: Using Black yarn, 6SC into a magic
pattern: 5 Black, 15 White, 4 Black. Join
ring. Join with a SS into the 1st SC. (6)
with a SS into the 1st SC. (24)
R2: Ch1. 2SC in each st around, in the
following colour pattern: 3 Black, 1 White,
8 Black. Join with a SS into the 1st SC. (12)

Tie off. Cut Black and White threads.

R3: Ch1. *SC in next st, 2SC in next st*.

EYELID
Repeat all around in the following colour
pattern: 4 Black, 2 White, 1 Dark, 1
R5: Join Body Colour with a SS in last
Medium, 5 Light, 1 Medium, 1 Dark, 3
White st. Ch1, SC in same st. SC in next 4
Black. Join with a SS into the 1 SC. (18)
st
sts. SC into SS. SC in rem 19 sts. Join with
a SS into FLO. (25)

Cut all the coloured threads, keeping

only White and Black.
Continue working in FLO.

22
R6: Ch1, sk 1st st. SC in next st. *HDC in
next st. HDC next 2 sts tog.* 4 times. SC
in next st. Ch1. SS in next st. Leave 10
rem sts un-worked. (10)

Tie off, leaving a 35cm thread for sewing.

Twist the loose ends all together and ball

them up behind the eye. This will serve
as a light padding to make the eye bulge
slightly from the face.

23
Finished size: 25mm long x 35mm wide
Make 2

In addition to the fins you have already

made using the original pattern, make
two more large fins.

R1: Using Fin Colour, 6SC into a magic R5: *SC in next 5 sts. 2SC in next st.*
ring. (6) Repeat. (14)
Continue working in the round.
R2: *SC in next 2 sts. 2SC in next st.* SS in next 2 sts to taper the end of your
Repeat. (8) row. Tie off, leaving a 20 cm thread for
R3: *SC in next 3 sts. 2SC in next st.* sewing. Do not sew the fins closed or
Repeat. (10) stuff them.
R4: *SC in next 4 sts. 2SC in next st.*
Repeat. (12)

24
A NOTE ON SYMMETRY SEWING
Examine your dragon from all angles All pieces should be sewn with a whip
when pinning, to make sure the pieces stitch. See the Tips section for more info.
are symmetrically placed, and that the
one half of your dragon is identical to the TIP: See the Amigurumi Tips booklet for more
other half. It is important to place each sewing tips.
piece as precisely as you can from the
beginning. As you add more features like PINNING
the horns and eyes, any inconsistencies If you’re having trouble with pins that
will be amplified. keep falling out, insert the pins at an
angle to create tension.

25
Lay the belly covering over the body and
pin at the bottom in the center. To avoid
flattening the bumps, don’t stretch it. It
should fall somewhere near R7 on the
body but the length is not critical; it’s
more important to retain the shape.

Sew in place using the loose end of the

belly covering.

Pin all around the belly covering, making

sure it’s centered and that the sides are
symmetrical. Check that the bumps are
not over-stuffed and are still well-
defined.

26
 Sew in place. When you sew the area
where the belly cover is, work into the
front loops of the slip stitches on the
Nestle the head into the neck opening of belly cover to attach it to the head.
the body. The lip around the neck should
lay flat on the surface of the head, to
help the 2 shapes blend into each other.

When the body is upright, the head must

be level and centered. It should be
positioned as if your dragon is looking
straight ahead.

27
 Squash the top part of the front leg (the
“shoulder”) onto the body as you pin it in
place, so that it blends into the shape of
The front legs are longer than the back the body. Make sure to position the legs
legs. They should not point straight in the same place on each side of the
forward but should rest on the ground. body, and that the body is centred, not
leaning to one side. Pin around the
shoulders but do not pin the under-
arms.

IMPORTANT: Sit your dragon upright

then lean the body forward a little to its
final sitting position. Leaving about 2
rows open above the front legs, pin them
in place so that they touch the ground,
supporting the body in this position.
The paws may rotate inwards to face
each other at this stage, and that’s okay,
as long as they touch the ground. If they
don’t touch the ground, lean the body
further forward or move the arms lower
down the body until they do.

28
Sew the front legs in place using small Push the needle through the arm and
stitches spaced closely together. out the other side to the point where the
back of the arm meets the belly covering.
Make a knot here too, then sew the rest
of the shoulder.

To prevent the arm’s stitching pulling on

the belly cover, do not sew the underarm
area. Starting on the left arm, sew
around the shoulder towards the chest The positions of the knots are marked by
until you reach the apex (the highest black pins below:
point) of the first bump on the belly
covering, then make a knot (to secure
your sewing).

Attach the second leg on the other side.

29
The tail should curve up at the tip. This is
the correct orientation.

Sew the tail in place.

To fill up any hollow areas around the lip,

you can add stuffing as you pin, or keep
stuffing as you sew. Do not overstuff. The
tail should not bulge around the join, it
Sit your dragon on your work table then should blend into the shape of the body.
place the tail on the dragon’s bum, so When stuffed correctly, the tail looks like
that the tail also rests on the table. it’s made in one piece with the body.

Make sure it is centred with the body. Pin

the top and the bottom first.

The lip around the tail’s opening should

lie flat against the body. You can stretch
the lip over the body as you pin it to
blend the pieces together. To do this,
insert a pin into a stitch on the tail,
stretch it slightly, then push the pin into
the body.
30
Your dragon should balance on its own
at this point. Place the back legs on
either side of the body, squashing the
top end of them on as you pin so that
they blend into the shape of the body.

Sew with small, closely spaced stitches.

Leave the inner thigh un-sewn, like the

arms. Make a knot on either side of the
un-sewn area (marked with black pins
below) to secure the sewing on either
side.

Position the legs so they are right at the

perimeter of the tail’s join, and so that
they rest on the ground. Pin around the
thigh, but not the inner thigh (in the
same way as you left the underarm un-
pinned).

31
At this point, it’s a good idea to pin all the
features roughly in place on your
dragon’s head, to ensure that everything
fits and get an idea of where they should
go, then unpin and sew them as
described in this section.

32
 Now swing the fin around until the top
intersects with the 9th row and pin in
place.
At the back of the head, count 7 rows
horizontally on each side of the last row
and place a pin on both sides between
the 7th and 8th row. Place another pin
vertically between the 9th and 10th row
near the top of the head.

Pin the second fin in the same manner,

then check that they are symmetrical and
make any adjustments needed.

The fins should be orientated with tube 1

(the shortest tube) at the bottom and
tube 3 at the top. Pin the bottom at one
of the lower pins.

33
Sew in place, sewing around the
perimeter of the opening and working
into FLO of the fins.

34
 Draw a line on the head from the magic
ring to the last row where it’s sewn
closed.
TELLING THE EYES APART
To ensure you place the correct eye on
the correct side of the head, use the
large white spot to tell the right eye from
the left as illustrated in the image below,
showing which eye goes on which side of
the dragon’s head:

Rotate the eye so that the top half is

above the line and the bottom half is
below the line.

ROTATION
The coloured part of the eye should be in
the bottom half of the circle, so that the
eyelid is in the top half of the circle. Note
how the blue of the eye is horizontally
level in the image below:

Place the eyes in the exact center of the

head, on the side of the face.

NOTE: The center of the eye is the magic

ring.

35
The outer rim of the eye should fall right
on the bend of the face, at the point
where the muzzle begins to widen.

When pinning the eye, make sure it is

perfectly round, all the way around the
circumference.

Sew in place, working into BLO around

the eyelid, and into both loops around
the rest of the perimeter.

36
Place the small horn on the top of the
dragon’s muzzle, in the centre.

There should be about 6 or 7 rows open

between the horn and the magic ring
from the nose on the head.

Sew in place, working into FLO around

the perimeter.

37
 TIP: When correctly sewn, the nostrils will
look like one with the head. See next
page for more helpful images before
Squash the nostrils flat. sewing if needed.

Starting at the back of the tube, sew

along the side, compressing the nostril
onto the head as you sew. This will
enable you to blend it into the head so it
looks like the nostrils are a natural part
of the face and not loose sausages
balancing on top of the muzzle.

Place the nostrils on either side of the

horn, pointing outwards at an angle.
They should not point directly forward or
sideways, but in between.

When you get to the front, sew the

bottom half of the nostril opening to the
head, then finish attaching the other side
and the back of the tube.

Pin in place.

38
SEWN VS UN-SEWN NOSTRILS

39
Place the cheek to the bottom and to the
side of the eye. It should not overlap the
line where the head joins the body.

Pin and sew in place.

40
 Place a medium fin directly above the
eyes in the centre of the head.

Do not stuff the fins or sew them closed.

Do not open the fins up; they should be
flat.

The fins should be placed so they look

evenly spaced down the centre back of
the head and body.

Begin with the small fin near the tip of

the tail.

Place the leftover medium fin after the

small one on the tail.

Distribute all the large fins along the

spine in the remaining space. Shift them
as needed until the spacing is regular.

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Sew in place, taking care to preserve
their position and keep them straight.
Work into FLO of the stitches around the
perimeter.

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 Sew in place, working into the lowest
loops of body colour around the fold of
the horn rim.
Place them in the leftover space between
the eyes and fins, facing directly forward
and ensuring they both curve in the
same direction.

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 Sew with closely spaced stitches (working
1 stitch into each row of the tube). Sew
up along the back, until you reach the
Place the wings so they rest on the neck, then sew across the tube, down the
dragon’s hips, centered in the space left other side and around the bottom of the
between the front legs and the fins. The tube.
pinned part of the tube should point
directly up towards the sky.

Pin the tube along both sides up to

where the neck joins the head.

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Your dragon is complete!

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 etsy.com/shop/PROJECTARIAN

projectarian.com

instagram.com/projectarian/

facebook.com/Projectarian/

hookedonsunshine.co

www.ravelry.com/designers/projectarian

…and as always – a special thank you to the test team at Hooked on Sunshine!
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