INTRODUCTION

TO SNAIL FARMING
IN WEST AFRICA

BY

DOUGLAS SMART
CHUKWUDI
Foreword

Snail meat which is very nutritious can be a very cheap and viable
supplement to the protein requirements for most people in Nigeria and
Africa at large.
Unfortunately, due to ignorance of snails Farming techniques and
modern snail breeding methods available, snails are still collected
mainly from the wild by women and children and this is greatly
leading to the extinction of this wonderful creature.
It has, therefore, become necessary to domesticate snails and organize
snail Farming into a viable business as we are doing to fish and poultry
farming as these have the potentials of supplementing the protein need
of Nigerians and African, also for an alternative source of income and
export opportunity for the country.

2
Contents

1 Introduction
2. Biology of snails 8
2.2 Achatina achatina 10
2.3 Achatina fulica 12
2.4 Archachatina marginata 15
2.5 Climatic and environmental requirements and restrictions
for raising snails 17

3 Choosing a site 19

3.1 Temperature and humidity 19

3.2 Wind speed and direction 20
3.3 Soil characteristics 21

4. Choosing a system: the options 22

4.1 Creating an Extensive System 222
4.2 Creating an Intensive System 28
4.3 Maintaining your Snail House 34
4.4 How to feed your snails 38
4.5 Dangerous Foods to avoid 44

5 Food and feeding 48

5.1 Introduction 48
5.2 Types of snail food 48
5.3 Recommendations on natural feed 50
5.4 Recommendations on formulated feed 52
5.5 Feeding and growth 54

3
6.0 Breeding and management 56
6.1 Nursery
6.2 Rearing density
6.3 Seasonal and daily management 57

7.0 Predators, parasites and diseases

7.1 Predators 60

8. Costs of constructing snaileries 62

References

4
1 Introduction
Snail farming, also known as "heliculture", is the process of raising
snails for food or commercial purposes. Snails are hermaphrodites,
meaning that a single snail can be both male and female. On the other
hand, heliculture (or snail farming) can also be defined as the process
of raising land snails specifically for human consumption or use.

There are many things snails can be used for, although eating snails as
meat is the most common use, snail shells, slime slime, snail eggs are
useful in other aspects of life (i.e. decoration, etc.). There are two
types of snails that are commonly cultivated in Nigeria and some other
countries with high market value and their benefits include:
AA = Achatina Achatina and
AM = Achatina Maginata.
AF= Achantina Fulica

Limiting factors to be considered for effective snail farming are

discussed so that farmers do not start breeding snails without
considering the advantages and disadvantage.

5
Merits of snail farming

Environment
Snails are environment-friendly, because, unlike poultry or pigs,
neither the snail nor its droppings smell offensively. Snails can also
be reared in the backyard. Also, snails manure improve the organic
content of the soil.
Inputs
Capital, technical, labour and financial inputs in simple snail farming
are relatively low compared to those in other types of livestock farm-
ing (poultry, pigs, goats, sheep, cattle).

Snail meat
Snail meat is a good source of protein. It is rich in iron and calcium,
but low in fat and cholesterol compared to other protein sources like
poultry and pigs.

Demerits of snail farming

Climate
Without expensive artificial means of climate control, snail farming is
restricted to the humid tropical forest zone, which offers a constant
temperature, high relative humidity, preferably no dry season, and a
fairly constant day/night rhythm throughout the year.

Cultural restrictions
Snail meat is considered a delicacy by some, whereas others will not
even touch it for religious or cultural reasons.

Growth
Snails are relatively slow-growing animals. Furthermore the consum-
able meat makes up only 40% (maximum!) of the snail's total live
weight. Consequently snail farming is not a way to make money
quickly!

6
Snails as a pest

Snails that have escaped from a farm, or been dumped by a farmer,

may quickly develop into a serious pest in agriculture and
horticulture.

For these reasons it must be emphasised that snail farming should be

seen as only one component in a diversified farming venture. How-
ever, with patience, good management and careful integration into
existing farming activities, snail farming can provide substantial
longer-term rewards.

5 Steps To Starting A Snail Farm In Nigeria

1. Step 1 – Decide which species of snail to farm. ...

2. Step 2 – Set-up your farmland for housing. ...
3. Step 3 – Purchase your snails. ...
4. Step 4 – Feeding and rearing of the snails. ...
5. Step 5 – Harvesting and selling of the snails.

7
 2 Suitable species
2.1 Biology of snails

Snails also belong to a group of reptiles called molluscs. Most

mollusks have a shell. Other members of this group include slugs,
mussels, squids, and cuttlefish.

This book focuses on the agricultural potential of the African

continent land snails, especially the type Achatina Achantina,,
Achatina fulica and Archachatina marginata. These are the ones
family Achatinidae, a group of large land snails,
native to West, East and South Africa, with long shells. Their size
varies from 3 cm to 25 cm.

8
The main anatomical features of a typical snail

9
2.2 Achatina achatina
Achatina achatina (big snail, tiger snail), which is distributed in
West Africa can be considered as a good researcher for breeding in
'most parts of West Africa. . although it requires higher humidity
than the other two species and requires a longer growing period to
reach sexual maturity.

Description
The snail Achatina achatina is considered to be the largest land
snail in the world. Although they are small, they can reach 30 cm
in length and 25 cm in height. The length of the adult shell is 18
cm, with a diameter of 9 cm.

Distribution
Achatina achatina is native to the rain forest belt of West Africa from
Guinea to Nigeria. Because one. achatina is the most popular species
for consumption in Ghana, it is rare in the wild.

Many ecotypes (locally accepted ones of A. achatina) may be

found, with differences in growth rate, size, aestivation (ndormancy)
patterns, colors and even flavors. The size difference can be -
well expressed by the difference in the duration of aestivation;
the shorter the aestivation time, the longer the feeding time
size, therefore, ecotype. A study of three ecotypes in Ghana, known as
donyina, is described
and goaso, showed a big difference between them. The apedwa
The snail has the shortest resting time, the donyina fills it the longest

10
Apedwa snails are the largest of the three ecotypes; some
Donyina took twice as long. In Ghana, this ecotype
he will be recommended as the best person for snail farming.

Achatina achatina

Growing conditions
The species prefers temperature, 25-30 ° C and humidity of 80-95%.
A. achatina will not be the easiest species to grow because of the stable
conditions it uses in the forest: it is almost constant 12/12 photoperiod,
extending only 13/11 for approx. 3 months, and the difference between
night and day. only 2-4 ° C. Even in the humid region of West Africa,
the snail in its habitat bury itself during the summer months.

11
2.3 Achatina fulica
Description
Achatina fulica is a large snail, reaching 20 cm in length or
sometimes more, with a shell length of up to 20 cm and a maximum
diameter of 12 cm. The round conical shell is mostly brown with a
broken line on the circumference. The color changes a lot depending
on the food. A mature snail. Average weight of 250 g

12
Growing conditions

The species is highly adaptable to a wide range of environments,

modifying its life cycle to suit local conditions.

13
Life history
Reproduction. Without delay due to aestivation or hibernation, snails
will reach sexual maturity in less than a year (even as 5 months under
laboratory conditions). Individual bonding (6-8 hours) must be done to
create viable eggs.

laid down. The small eggs (4 mm in diameter) are white in color

clutches of 10-400 eggs within 8-20 days of copulation, usually and
a nest dug in the ground. Recurrent births may occur, as sperm is
stored in each snail.

The frequency of spawn depends on the weather, especially the

frequency and duration of rain:

Hatching, newborns. In the crawl space, the baby birds eat their
eggs body (and unhatched brothers), stay underground for 5-15
dates and feed on organic detritus. Finally, they mainly eat food
in the trees at night, returning to the roost before dawn.

Matured Snails. Snails can reach sexual maturity in less than a year.
Normally, they live 3 to 5 years.

14
2.4 Archachatina marginata
Description
Archachatina marginata (big black, large African land snail) is a
large snail, usually reaching about 20 cm and weighing 500 g. The
carapace is less pointed than in the Achatina Maginata species, and
the carapace is more pronounced in young animals. Streaks on the
shell can give the appearance of a "woven" texture. A snail's head is
gray; His legs are a shade lighter.

15
Growth conditions

In Nigerian experiments, it was found that the growth of young snails

is proportional to temperature, decreasing significantly at temperatures
> 30°C, and directly proportional to rainfall and humidity. Body
weight decreases significantly during the dry season (December to
March in southern Nigeria, where the study was conducted).

A story of life
Reproduction. The species reaches sexual maturity in about one year,
when individuals reach a weight of 100-125 g. There must be a
combination of individuality to create a viable egg.

Lay down. Eggs are relatively large at 17 × 12 mm, and

Average weight of 4.8g in Nigerian product testing. Because of this,
The number of eggs per clutch is low, 4-18 eggs. Eggs are placed on
down to a depth of about 10 cm.

Hatching, The reception period, from egg to hatchlings, is

about four weeks. Hatchlings have a thin, transparent shell; they
stay underground for 5-7 days before emerging, but occasionally
wait even longer. Due to the weight of the eggs, the number of baby
snail per clutch is less compared to the other two types.

16
2.5 Climatic and environmental requirements
and constraints for snail farming

From the description of the three main types of snails, it is clear that
snails, as cold-blooded animals, are sensitive to changes in humidity
and temperature, especially Achatina fulica, can withstand different
conditions, but when the temperature and humidity do not suit them,
they sleep. The snail retracts its entire body into its shell, sealing the
opening with a white calcareous egg to prevent water loss from the
body.

Snails aestivate if temperature is above , > c. 30 °C, or if

humidity is below , < c. 70-75% relative humidity.
Snails snails also hibernate if the temperature is less than
below c. 5 °C.

For a working farmer, the result is the same: his snails become inactive and
stop growing, wasting valuable growing time.

17
Therefore, it is in the interest of the farmer to prevent, or at least
reduce, dormancy
....Choosing the best site for snail farming
....Providing a good home for snails
....By providing good food and ensuring good snail farming
management.
...Temperature: constant temperature
....Air humidity:
These conditions correspond to the climate zone of tropical forests -
and they work best when there is no drought or stress change.

18
3 Choosing a site
1) Site Selection

Due to the high thirst of snails, the farm should be in an area with
low ventilation, otherwise the rate of water loss of the snails will be
high, which will eventually cause the animals to suffer severe
depression. . Keeping them out of the air will prevent them from
losing water too quickly. The perfect place to plant your snail farm
would be an area with plenty of trees (grass), usually under ground.
It would be good to plant crops like mango, banana and a few
others around the farm, to reduce the impact of any wind passing
through the snail farm.

2 Soil Type
Not all soil types are suitable for rearing land snails. Since the natural
habitat of land snails is generally the soil, it’s important that the soil
they’re raised on, has all the chemical substances and components that
make it suitable for the snails to survive and fully mature.
An ideal soil that is suitable for rearing snails must be non-acidic, not
water-logged, must be balanced, and must not be too dry. In the
selection of the soil type, sandy and clayey soil must be totally
avoided for your snail farm. What should be used is loamy soil that
doesn’t hold too much water.

3.1 Temperature and humidity

Snails are cold-blooded; they thrive in areas with normal
temperatures and high humidity. The temperature in the area where
the snails are found does not change much. However, there is a large
variability in atmospheric humidity, which has a noticeable effect on
snails. In their natural environment, snails hibernate during the dry
season. The humidity of the air should not be close to saturation,
because it promotes the growth of harmful bacteria and fungi.

19
3.2
Wind speed and direction

The wind keeps the water out of the snails. To prevent snails from
becoming extinct, snails should be located in sites that are protected
from the wind. The swing areas are the best, preferably with a good
cover of trees to reduce the effect of the wind. Planting trees (trees)
around snail beds will help reduce wind speed and improve the
microclimate. It will also protect the snail from the scorching sun or
heavy rain.

20
3.3 Soil characteristics

....Soil is an important part of a snail farming. Soil composition,

moisture content and texture are important factors to consider when
choosing a site.

....Snails get most of the water they need from the soil.

....The snail shell is composed of calcium from the soil and food.

....Snails burrow into the ground to lay their eggs and rest when the dry
weather.

For all these reasons, it is important that the ground is light and its
calcium and water content is high.

....Heavy clay soil that becomes waterlogged during rains

and compact during poor summers is not advice-able.

....Sandy soils are also unfavorable because of their low water content.
right of arrest.

...Soil rich in organic matter promotes growth and development

of snails.
.... Acidic soil should be avoided because acidity will inhibit it
development of snail shell.

In general, if the soil supports good growth of tomatoes and

vegetables, it is suitable for gardening.

21
4. Choosing a system: the options

Snails can be fascinating and peaceful creatures. They can also be a

cash crop, as many people around the world eat them as food. Of
course, before you invest in a full-fledged farm, you should check
the local snail market and find out if there are any rules and
regulations regarding farming and selling. Snails come in three
forms. The system is open to the air and outside. The system is
tightly closed and air-conditioned. A Usually in intensive systems,
you let your sils breed and spawn in a closed environment and move
the snails outside after about 6-8 weeks.

4.1
Creating an Extensive System ( PART 1)
1.Determine whether your climate is
suitable for raising snails outdoors.

22
Most snails prefer heat and humidity - around 25-30 degrees C (or
77-86 degrees F) and 80-95% humidity. Do some research on the
type of snails you are considering keeping to determine whether or
not an elaborate system is an option for you.

Consider wind as a breeding ground for snails. Wind causes snails to

dry out, so you should keep your snail plants in a sheltered location
if possible.

2.Fence in an area based on how many snails you

are planning to house.

23
Fine chicken wire works best because snails don't like to crawl
through it. Blocks and bricks are also good options.

Dig the fence at least 20 cm to prevent snails from getting under it

and escaping. It will only be a few centimeters if there is no roof. If
there is a roof, you will need to build a roof at least as high as the
height of the tallest tree in the garden.

3. Decide whether you want a roof or not.

24
A roof can provide shade and protection from the elements, but it is
an expensive option. If you use snails that can climb your house, a
roof is needed to keep them. [3]
A good wire fence is a good choice for the house. You can cover it
with a cloth for extra protection.
If you are adding a roof you will need a way to get your snails. If
you're using wire mesh, tie the housing to the wire so you can untie
them and get into the pen when you need to.

4
Fill the garden with suitable soil.

25
 Make sure the floor is empty. Snails lay their eggs
in the ground, so it is important that they dig them
up quickly.

Avoid

very sandy soil (does not retain water well)

clay soil weight
acidic soil (it can damage their shells)

5
Plant vegetation in the pen.

26
 Trees and shrubs will provide food and shelter. Plants that work
well are sweet potatoes, pumpkins, and leafy vegetables.

You can also consider planting small trees outside the garden.
This will protect them from wind, sun and rain.

6
Add a small bag for water.

27
Add a small bag for water. Let it collect rainwater, because tap water
often contains chemicals like chlorine, which are not good for snails.
Use something shallow (like a pot lid) to keep your snails from
falling and drowning. If the water becomes cloudy or full of debris,
replace it.

4,2
Creating an Intensive System ( PART 2)
Choose your configuration.
Snails can come out of there pen easily, they're usually artists, so
you'll need something sturdy.

A wooden box works well. Make sure that it is termite resistant

material.
Disposable oil cans are also a cheap and versatile option.
Glass or plastic containers also work. If you are only working with a
few snails, a plastic Tupperware bag will work. For some others,
consider an aquarium.

28
2
Drill a hole in the lid of your container.
A snail house needs ventilation so that your little friends can
breathe. If you are hatching snails, place them over wire mesh to
prevent them from escaping. If you are making adult snails, you can
poke holes in the lid of your bag as long as they are smaller than
your snails.

29
3
Place your construction on the legs.

It is good to bring the construction to waist level for ease of use. If

you plan to keep the snail cage outside, legs will also help keep
predators away. You can use concrete blocks stacked on top of each
other to make the footing easier.

You should also keep the snails away from direct sunlight so that
they can easily stay hydrated. Do not place them under the air, as
this can dry them out.

30
4
Prepare your snail house.

Add at least two inches of loamy soil to the bottom of the container.
Provide shelter for small critters, such as tupperware placed on its
side or a half-buried terracotta pot.

Do not use soil directly from your garden, as it may contain

other organisms.

31
5
Supply your snails with feed.

Assuming you haven’t planted anything in your container, a serious

system will require you to feed your snails regularly. You can give
them grass, vegetable peelings and pieces of fruit. Avoid plants with
hairy leaves and anything that produces toxins.

If the food is not eaten and starts to rot, remove it from the bag.

Good fruits for snails include mangoes, bananas, pears, eggplant,

figs, tomatoes, and cucumbers.

Snails need protein, which they can get from sweet potatoes and
plantains.

Leftovers like rice and beans are fine, but make sure they are
salt-free.

32
6
Provide a shallow container of water.

Plastic container works well. Tap water often contains

chlorine, which is not good for snails. Give them rain or
bottled water.

33
4.3
Maintaining Your Snail House (PART 3)

1
Decide if you want to create a semi intensive
system.

If you already have an extensive system and it's time for your snails
to breed, you'll find that you need to add solids for planting and
raising snails. If you have an intensive system that houses eggs and
snails, you may find that you need to add an extension cord as your
snails grow and need more space.

34
2
Make sure your snail cage is big enough.

Add to it as your snails increase. Overcrowding can inhibit snail

growth and promote the spread of disease among your snail
population. In general, you need about 1 square meter for 100
hatchlings and about 1 square meter for 7-10 adult snails.

35
3
Replace compost.

About once every two weeks, remove the snails and replace the old
compost with fresh. Also, be sure to remove any rotten food at this
time.

Be careful when scratching the baby snail. Adult snails are difficult
to pick up, so try to move the baby snails by placing them on a hard
sheet of paper and moving them gently.

36
4
Keep plenty of fresh water in the enclosure.
Use shallow dishes such as jar lids or yogurt container tops to
prevent snails from falling into the water. If the water starts to look
dirty or gets a lot of food or droppings in it, replace it immediately.

37
4.4
How to Feed a Snail
Snails can be fun and easy to care for pets. Just feed the snail a
variety of fruits and vegetables and give it a shallow bowl of water
to keep it hydrated. Avoid feeding the snail processed foods and
starchy foods, as this can damage its digestive system. Enjoy
watching the snail grow as you continue to feed it.

Choosing Healthy Foods for Your Snail

1
Get a variety of fruits and vegetables to feed your
snails.

Raw products are the best food for snails because they contain many
nutrients and are easy to digest. Apples, eggplants, cucumbers,
carrots, tomatoes and lettuce are easy and cheap options; However,
all fruits and vegetables are healthy.
Feed the snail a variety of fruits and vegetables to ensure it gets
plenty of nutrients.

38
2
Cut the food into thin slices or cut into 1
centimeter (0.39 in) cubes.

This allows the snails to eat quickly. Use a peeler to cut small pieces
of fruit or vegetables. If the food cannot be cleaned, cut it into thin
slices or small cubes with a sharp knife.

Don't worry about removing the thin skin from fruits or vegetables
like carrots. Things with tough skins, such as bananas and pumpkins,
should be cut to make it easier for snails to eat the flesh.

39
3
Replace the snail meal when finished.

Snails will stop eating when they are full. When you see that the
snail has eaten all of its food, give it more fruits and vegetables.

Over time, you will get used to how much the snail eats and can
regulate it.

40
4
Replace any uneaten food after 3 days to prevent
spoilage.

Many fruits and vegetables have a shorter shelf life when stored in
the refrigerator. Always replace with new products to prevent
damage.

41
5
Place a shallow plastic water dish next to the
snail food.

The snail will drink the water and bathe in it as its shell oozes. Do
not put more than 1 centimeter (0.39 in) of water in the bowl so that
the snails do not submerge. Don't use a plate that you can't face. A
snail can land on it and destroy its shell.

Make sure the plate is secure and won't tip over.

42
6
Leave the bones in the snail food to increase
calcium intake.

To build and repair its shell, the snail needs calcium. A snail will
deposit calcium in its legs while sitting on its back. Place a bone
near his food to make him sit on it.

Buy bone marrow from a pet store.

43
4.5
Dangerous Foods to Avoid

1.Avoid salty foods.

Your snail needs only a small amount of salt in its diet, which is
usually found in fruits and vegetables. A diet high in salt will dry out
the snail and make it sick.

Avoid packaged foods, as they are often high in salt.

44
2
Avoid serving pasta, rice and millet.
Snails cannot digest starchy foods. These foods cause bloating in
the stomach. This can make the snail sick and even fatal.

45
3
Reduce the amount of acidic food you give to
snails.

Give the snails a variety of food. Avoid feeding only wet fruits
such as tomatoes, oranges and tangerines, as these can be harmful if
not mixed with other foods.

As long as snails have a small selection of acidic foods, it is good

to feed them acidic food.

46
4
Avoid fruits and vegetables that have been
sprayed with pesticides.

Snails are very sensitive to pesticides that are sprayed on the fruit.
Avoid chemical grown fruits and vegetables.

Look for the "organic" and "aerosol-free" labels when shopping for
fruits and vegetables.

47
5 Food and feeding
5.1 Introduction
The distinction between extensive, semi-intensive and intensive snail
farming systems applies not only to housing (Chapter 4), but also to
feeding.

In an extensive system snails feed only on vegetation planted in their

pens specifically for that purpose, as in mini-paddock and free-range
pens.

In a semi-intensive snail farm, external feed is provided to hatchlings,

juveniles and possibly to breeding snails housed in hutch boxes or
trench pens.

In an intensively managed snail farm, all snails, at whatever growing

stage, are always provided with external feed. Snails are kept in hutch
boxes or trench pens.

In very intensive farms the snails are fed a formulated snail feed mix
containing all the proteins, carbohydrates, minerals and vitamins re-
quired for optimal growth. Snails are housed in boxes or trench pens.

Unless your snail farm is of the very extensive type, you will have to
provide your snails with some or all the food they need for good de-
velopment. This will require efforts on your part in growing or collect-
ing snail food, or cash for buying it. Therefore, you must know what
snails eat and what they need.

5.2 Types of snail food

What snails eat
Snails are vegetarian and will accept many types of food. All snails
will avoid plants that have hairy leaves or produce toxic chemicals,

48
like physic nut (Jathropa curcas). Young snails prefer tender leaves
and shoots; they consume about twice as much feed as mature snails.
As they get older, mature snails increasingly feed on detritus: fallen
leaves, rotten fruit and humus. Older snails should be fed the same
items as immature snails. If a change in the diet has to be made, the
new food items should be introduced gradually.

What snails need

Snails need carbohydrates for their energy and protein for their
growth. In addition, they need calcium (Ca) for their shell, as well as
other minerals and vitamins. Snail meat is low in crude fiber and fat;
for this reason, these parts are less important in the diet of snails.

Recommended food items

Leaves: cocoyam, kola, papaya, cassava, okra, eggplant, loofah,
centrosema, cabbage and lettuce. Papaya leaves (along with its seeds
and fruit peels) appear in many tests as a good food for snails.

Fruits: papaya, mango, banana, eggplant,

pears, palm oil, figs, tomatoes and cucumbers.
This fruit is usually rich in minerals and vitamines, but less protein.
Tubers: taro, cassava, ji, sweet potatto and plantain. Tubers are a
good source
of carbohydrates, despite little protein. (The mold must be of the low
cyanide type).

Flowers: oprono (Mansonia altissima),

work (You see cecropoides) and paw
paw. Household waste: peelings of fruits and tubers,
such as bananas, plantains, pineapples, etc

49
especially paw paw, and leftovers like cooked rice, beans, fufu and
eko. Caution: household waste must not contain salt!

5.3 Recommendations on natural feed

Market waste
Because snails are vegetarians, the cheapest way to raise them is to
collect discarded but prepared food from the market. At the end of
each market day, some perishable vegetables and fruits still useful
for consumption snails can collect from the garbage. This will
reduce the cost and labor needed to buy or grow vegetables and
fruits just to feed the snails.

Achatina achatina
Achatina achatina feeds mainly on green leaves, fruits, tubers and
flowers. Unlike other snails, it prefers leaves and fruits that are de-
tached from the main plant. It also seems to prefer wet leaves to dry
ones and appears to thrive on prunings of food plants grown in pens.

Providing A. achatina with a mixture of foods, rather than only one or

two items, will enhance its growth. Food attractiveness is important in
the nutrition of this species. If the food is appetising (e.g. paw paw) or
contains a feeding stimulant, the snails will eat a lot and grow quickly.
If food is unattractive or lacks a stimulant, however nutritious it may
be, the snails will not eat much of it.
A. achatina baby snails thrive best on leafy vegetables. At all other
stages, a diet made up of the following ingredients is recommended:

Cocoyam. Cocoyam leaves contribute fairly high amounts of pro-

tein (2.9%), calcium (60 mg/kg) and phosphorus (52 mg/kg), and
moderate amounts of thiamine (vitamin B 1) and riboflavin (vitamin
B2).
Paw paw fruit provides moderate amounts of carbohydrates and
high amounts of ascorbic acid (which is a feeding stimulant for
many
Oil plant-eating animals, including
palm. The mesocarp snails).
(fleshy layer) of the oil palm is high in car-
bohydrates, fats and palmitate (vitamin A).

50
 Supplementary vitamins. Other food plants known to contain mod-
erate amounts of vitamins D, E and K should be added; examples
are sunflower and copra cake (vitamin D), wheat germ, lettuce and
other vegetables (vitamin E), cabbage and African spinach (vita-
min K).

Supplementary calcium. If the soil is not high in calcium, supple-

mentary calcium will be needed. This can be provided by sprinkling
powdered oyster or snail shells or ground limestone onto leafy
?
vegetables.
Supplementary minerals. Other minerals can be provided by placing
?
licking stones containing the mineral in the pen.
Water. Clean water should be available to the snails at all times.

51
Summary recommendations on natural feed
Snails can feed on a large range of food items.
Looking for thrown-away surplus vegetables and fruits still con-
sumable by snails is a good way to reduce feeding costs.
Feed containing waxy or hairy leaves should be avoided. Paw paw
leaves, fruit and fruit peels stand out as excellent snail feed in many
feeding trials.
Feeds should contain protein at a level of about 20% of diet dry
matter for optimum development. Paw paw leaves, fruit and peels
are a good source of crude protein.

For strong growth and good shell development, powdered calcium

sources from egg shells, limestone, wood-ash, oyster shells
(crushed), or bone meal, should be added to the feed at a level of
about 15 to 20% of diet dry matter. Crushed oyster shell calcium is
best. Increasing the amount of calcium above 20% of diet dry mat-
ter results in thicker shells, not in more snail meat. (Note: 20% Ca
may seem like a lot, but remember this is a proportion of dry matter
and customary snail feeds are made up mainly of water.)
Snails need water! Most is supplied by the food they consume, but
additional water must be supplied in the growing pens: a water-
soaked sponge or a dot of cotton wool for hatchlings and juveniles,
in shallow dishes (otherwise the snails may drown) for mature and
breeding snails.

5.4 Recommendations on formulated feed

As land pressures force people to move from extensive farming, in
which natural foods are abundant, to semi-intensive farming, it
may become necessary to introduce formulated feeds. Studies in
Ghana in which poultry feed was used in snail farming showed
that this formula has good potential in growing A. achatina.

In Archachatina marginata snail farming in Nigeria, commercially

formulated feeds are sometimes used, but they are rather expensive.
You can mix a snail feed formula yourself, using the following ingre-
dients and ratios (in kg per 100 kg mix; recipe from Nigeria):

52
Table 1: A self-mix snail feed formula

Ingredients kg
Maize 31.3

Groundnut cake 10

Soy bean meal 25

Fish meal 4
Wheat offal 16

Palm kernel cake 4.2

Oyster shell 8.05

Bone meal 1.2

Premix vitamins & minerals 0.25

: A self-mix snail feed formula

53
5.5 Feeding and growth
Feeding management
Growth is highly dependent on ambient temperature and humidity.
At high temperatures (> 30 °C) and relatively low air humidity (< c.
70%) growth slows down or stops, because snails go into dormancy.
This should be avoided as much as possible, by good snail housing
and management.

Optimum stocking density obviously depends on age and size of the

snails. For hatchlings and juveniles stocking rates of 100/m2 or
more are applied; for mature breeding snails stocking should not
exceed 10-15 snails/m2. Overcrowding results in reduced growth
and increased mortality!

How and when to feed snails. In their natural habitat snails are noc-
turnal animals, hiding during the day and coming out at night to
feed. Their main feeding time starts from around two hours after
sunset. For best results the snail farmer should not put snail feed in
his pens before nightfall. Uneaten snail food should be removed
from the pens daily; otherwise, it will attract vermin and/or dis-
eases. To facilitate cleaning, the snail food might be placed on a flat
dish, a concrete slab, or an oil drum lid, placed within the pen

54
Farmers purchasing breeding stock from snail gatherers or from the
market should expect a fairly high level of mortality as a result of poor
handling and the adjustment to different foods.

The most reliable way of obtaining parental stock is from known

breeders, or from agricultural institutes. Such parent snails might be
more expensive than snails from other sources, but they are better and
safer because they have been properly fed and managed from hatch-
ing, and have not been damaged during collection and subsequent
handling.
Once the snail farm is established, farmers should select breeding
stock from their own snails.

Simple records kept by snail farmers can provide the necessary infor-
mation. As a general rule, the fastest growers with the strongest shells
should be selected as breeding stock. The stronger its shell, the better
the snail is protected against predators.

6
Breeding and management
6.1 Nursery

Snails selected as breeding stock are placed in hutch boxes or trench

pens, which must contain feed and water troughs.

Some farmers let snails lay eggs in the grower pens, and then transfer
the eggs to the nursery boxes or pens, but this is not recommended. It

55
may be difficult to locate the eggs, and the eggs may be physically
damaged during the transfer.
A breeding snail may lay one to three egg masses (clutches) per sea-
son. The number of breeding snails placed in a hutch box depends on
the fertility of the group and on the number of young snails required.
The latter depends on the pen space available. After egg laying, the
parent snails should be returned to their grower pens.

In A. achatina, large differences have been observed in egg production

within and between populations. The average size of egg mass pro-
duced by the various ecotypes studied in Ghana, for example, ranged
from 38 to 563 eggs. Generally, snails lay between 100 and 400 eggs.
The eggs are broadly oval and measure about 5 mm long. They are
usually laid in round-shaped holes dug 2-5 cm deep in the soil (figure
20). Occasionally they are laid on the soil surface or at the base of
plants. Snail eggs require a certain amount of warmth to induce hatch-
ing. They usually hatch 12-20 days after laying.

Eggs laid in a hole dug in the soil

56
In A. achatina, the baby snails have light-brown shells with black
stripes. They should be kept in the boxes and fed on vegetable or fruit
leaves (like cocoyam and paw paw leaves), fruits (preferably paw
paw), powdered oyster shells and water until they are big enough to
move to grower pens. Young snails do best if they are kept with snails
of the same size.
The eggs of Achatina fulica are small (4 mm) and are laid in clutches
of 10 to 400; usually a parent snail lays several clutches in a year.
Hatchlings remain 5-15 days underground before emerging.

The eggs of Archachatina marginata are quite large (17 × 12 mm) and
egg clutches are small (4-18 eggs). A parent snail may produce several
clutches a year. The incubation period is around 4 weeks. Hatchlings
remain underground for 2-5 days after hatching.

6.2 Rearing density

Density affects the growth and breeding capacity of snails. High-
density populations tend to grow slowly, develop into smaller adults,
and lay fewer clutches of eggs and fewer eggs per clutch. If the snails
are very densely packed, they may not breed at all. The accumulating
slime suppresses reproduction. Other disadvantages of high density are
the high rates of parasitism and ease of transmission of diseases.

In terms of snail weight, the recommended density is 1-1.5 kg per m2

(for A. achatina, this would be about 15 to 25 snails per square metre).
It is best to start a snail farm with as low a density as possible. As the
farmer becomes more familiar with snail habits and with managing the
enterprise, the numbers could be increased.

6.4 Seasonal and daily management

As in any livestock farming operation, good management practices are
the key to success.

57
Most research on farming GALS has been carried out in West Africa.
Seasonal activities, as described below, follow the march of the sea-
sons of West Africa, with breeding and egg laying in March through
July. Note that domesticated snails may continue laying during the dry
season as well (Omole, et al. 2007).

Snail breeders in other parts of the (sub)humid tropics should adapt

the management cycle to local conditions.
In semi-intensive or intensive snail farming, farmers keep and care for
hatchlings, growers and breeding snails in separate hutch boxes or
pens.

Hatchlings
Hatchlings require more humid conditions than adult snails. They
should be fed tender leaves, such as paw paw and/or cocoyam, and a
calcium supplement for good shell development. The soil in their pens
should be kept moist and enough water should be provided. The pens
should be fitted with small gauze wire mesh or nylon mesh; otherwise
the small snails will escape. Hatchlings and juveniles may be kept at a
density of around 100/m2.

Growers
Growers should be transferred to separate pens at around 3 months of
age, at a stocking density of 30-40 snails/m2. For fast growth, they
might be given compound feed, rich in crude protein, calcium and
phosphorus, besides their normal diet.

Breeders
Breeders start to lay eggs at sexual maturity, at the age of 10 to 12
months. They should be transferred to boxes or pens at a density of 10-
15 snails/m2. (Note: stocking densities mentioned are indications. The
general stocking density guideline of 1-1.5 kg snail/m2 should al- ways
be kept in mind!) soil should be loosened to facilitate egg laying. The
breeders' ration must be rich in crude protein and calcium. Any eggs
found on the surface must be buried promptly to a depth of 1 to

58
2 cm. Before hatching, the soil on top of the clutches might be loos-
ened or removed to facilitate uniform emergence. To avoid cannibal-
ism, the breeders must be removed to their growing pens soon after
the hatchlings emerge. Adults no longer required for breeding are kept
in fattening pens until ready for sale or consumption.

Daily management involves several activities:

Feeding
Snails should be fed after sunset. The feed must not be stale or
mouldy. Leftovers should be removed the following morning. Water
should be replenished.

Housing
Check whether wire mesh and mosquito netting are intact; repair
where necessary. Clean the pens. Keep doors or covers of the snail
pens closed and locked.

Soil
Keep the soil moist by mulching and watering if necessary in the dry
season. Never add fresh poultry droppings to the soil. Change soil in
the cages every three months.

Hygiene
Check pens for any dead snails; remove them immediately. Do not use
insecticides or herbicides in your snailery. Handle your snails care-
fully and wash them with water from time to time.

Recording
Record inputs and output of your snail farm daily. Include your own
labour or that of family members, and inputs, like food or repairs to
the pens.

59
7 Predators, parasites and
diseases
Snail farmers need to be aware of several predators, parasites and
diseases if mortality rates are to be kept to a minimum. Snails have
many predators, including members of all major vertebrate groups,
carnivorous snails, land snails, leeches, and even carnivorous
caterpillars. Humans also pose a serious threat to snails. Pollution
and
Habitat destruction has led to the extinction of some snail species.

7.1 Predators
The predators that the farmer may face are wild mice, rats and
shrews, frogs and toads, thrushes, crows and domestic birds such
as ducks and turkeys, lizards and snakes, drilids and ground
beetles, centipedes and centipedes. . Frogs only take young snails,
while birds eat both eggs and snails.

In areas with large bird populations, it is important to install

safety nets over the pen.
Food waste should be removed from the garden on a daily basis.

60
 : Some natural enemies of snails

However, the main predators are humans looking for a nutritious meal
at the snail farmer's expense. Snail farmers must introduce any legal
measures they consider necessary to protect the farm against poachers.

61
 8.
Costs of constructing a snail house

Because of inflation, prices are meaningless and have been omitted. Com-
plete the cost calculations by entering the local prices of construction
materi- als and labour. Construction costs must include the cost of any
transportation charges!

Table 5: Hutch box (single chamber; 60 × 60 × 30 cm; suitable for

3-5 adult snails)

Item Description Quantity Price

1 5 × 7 × 488 cm timber (iroko)* (stilts) 1
2 2.5 × 30 × 366 cm wooden board (box) 3 2
Nylon mesh 0.45 m
4 Wire net 0.45 m
5 Nails (2.5 and 7.5 cm) 0.5 kg
6 8 cm hinges, padlock 2, 1
7 Labour 1 person-day
Total
* Iroko is the trade name for odum wood

Hutch box (single and double chamber)

To build a double chamber hutch box, double the quantities of items 2,

3, 4, 5 and 6. Item 1 should be replaced by 5 × 10 × 488 cm timber.

62
Table 6: Trench pen (set of 9 pens of 90 × 90 × 50 cm; each
suit- able for 10-15 adult snails)

Item Description Quantity Price

1 Sandcrete blocks 46 × 23 × 15 cm 96
2 Cement 2 bags
3 Nylon mesh 11 m
4 2.5 × 5 × 330 cm timber (iroko) 10
5 Nails (5 cm) 1 kg
6 Labour (digging and laying blocks) 4 person-days
7
Labour (making cover) 2 person-day
Total

Trench pen

63
Table 7: Mini-paddock pen (6 × 1.5 × 0.5 m; suitable for more than
200 adult snails)

Item Description Quantity Price

1 Nylon mesh 18 m
2 5 × 5 × 366 cm timber (iroko) 3
3 Nails (4 cm) 0.75 kg
4 Nails (1.5 cm) 0.5 kg
5
Labour 2 person-days
Total

Figure 27: Mini-paddock pen

The costs of a mini-paddock pen built with bamboo depend on the

source of the bamboo and the transportation charges.

64
 REFERENCES

Joseph R. Cobbinah's.., 1993 Pratical Guide on Snail Farming in

West Africa.

Okpeze. C.N.., 2007 Effect of feeding on adult snails in African

Journal of Biotechnology.

Pippa Elliott, MRCVS (Wiki How)2021 Feeding Land Snails.

Food and Agriulture Organization of the United Nation (FAQ)

1986. Better Farming Series;Farming Snails. Economic and Social
Development Series Nos. 33 and 34. Rome, Italy.

Omole, AJ.., A.A. Taiwo, and J. A. Amusan, 2007. Practical Snail

Farming. Institute of Agricultural Research and Training (IAR&T)
Obafemi Awolowo University, Ibadan, Nigeria.

65