Goat Skull

Amigurumi Pattern

Materials:
- Off-white yarn, Medium Weight (size 4)
- Black yarn, Medium Weight (size 4)
- Poly-fil or stuffing material
- Black felt sheets
- Bent yarn needle (or any large needle)
- 3.25/ D crochet hook
- 2.75mm / C crochet hook

Optional
- Pre-cut wood plaque, at least 5 inches
- 2 Square hooks, 1 inch
- Picture hanging materials

Abbreviation Key:
Ch = Chain
Sl = Slip Stitch
Sc = Single Crochet
HDC = Half-Double Crochet Difficulty: Intermediate
IncHDC = Increase - 2 HDC in one stitch
This pattern requires knowledge of
Inc = Increase - 2Sc in one stitch crochet in the round, as well as all of the
Dec = Decrease - Sc 2 stitches together stitches listed in the abbreviation key.
FLO = Front-Loop Only - stitch closest to you
The stitches used in this piece are very
BLO = Back-Loop Only - stitch furthest from you simple - but this piece contains smaller
[ ] = Stitches in brackets is repeated x number of times until pieces that need to be joined which can
impact the overall look.
the end of round
( ) = # in parentheses is # of stitches you should have in It’s recommended that artists following
each round this pattern are comfortable with joining
amigurumi pieces, as this will have
* * = # of rounds steps will be repeated if more than 1 round
impacts on the final look of the piece.

1
Skull - base
Start with your white yarn and
3.25mm hook

1. 6Sc in mc (6)
2. [Inc] x 6 (12)
3. [Sc, Inc] x 6 (18)
4. [2Sc, Inc] x 6 (24)
5. [3Sc, Inc] x 6 (30)
6. [4Sc, Inc] x 6 (36)
7. [Inc, 11Sc] x 3 (39)
8. [Inc, 12Sc] x 3 (42)
9. [Inc, 13Sc] x 3 (45)
10. [Inc, 14Sc] x 3 (48)
11. [Inc, 15Sc] x 3 (51)
12 - 14. Sc around *3 rounds* (51)
15. [Dec, 15Sc] x 3 (48)
16. [Dec, 14Sc] x 3 (45) Note: Adding extra stitch markers on the first
17. 20Sc, 3Dec, 19Sc (42) stitch of your increase or decrease starting at
18. 15Sc, 6Dec, 15Sc (36) round 7 can help you keep track of where to
19-20. Sc around *2 rounds* (36) increase and decrease in future rounds
21. 8Sc, Dec, 16Sc, Dec, 8Sc (34)
I keep my stitch markers where I left them in
22. 7Sc, Dec, 16 Sc, Dec, 7Sc (32) rounds 17 and 18, and my decreases will happen
23. 6Sc, Dec, 16 Sc, Dec, 6Sc (30) in between those two markers in these rounds. I
remove these additional markers after round 18.
Now we’ll create a gap for the nasal bone
to be stitched seamlessly later.

Round 16 Round 17 Round 18

2
Skull - base cont.

24. 27Sc, Ch6, skip the next 8 stitches - passing over (28)
your current stitch marker. Sc in the 9th stitch.
Move your stitch marker here, this will count as the
first stitch in the next round. Try not to chain too
loose, as this could impact the final look.

25. 28sc around (28)

26. 3Sc, Dec, 5Sc, Dec, 5Sc, Dec, 9Sc (25)
27. 3Sc, Dec, 4Sc, Dec, 4Sc, Dec, 8Sc (22)
28. 4Sc, Dec, 3Sc, Dec, 3Sc, Dec, 6Sc (19)
29. 3Sc, Dec, 2Sc, Dec, 3Sc, Dec, 5Sc (16)

Start stuffing here - stuff the back of the skull firmly

30. 2Sc, Dec, 2Sc, Dec, 2Sc, Dec, 4Sc (13)

31. 4Sc, Dec, 7Sc (12)
32. [2Sc, Dec] x 3 (9)
33. [Sc, Dec] x 3 (6)
Finish off, leave some thread for shaping later

You’ll now have a shape like a rounded cone with an

open hole on one side. You can use this hole to stuff
the bottom piece, but stuff this part very lightly.
You want this part to keep flat.

You can use your extra thread to flatten this piece

further by feeding it through the top and bottom as
shown in the image to the right. Thread yarn through top and bottom to flatten piece

3
Eyes
Use your white yarn - switch to your 2.75mm hook

Make 2 eyes
1. 6Sc in a magic circle (6)
2. [Inc] x 6 (12)
3. [Sc, Inc] x 6 (18)
4. [2Sc, Inc] x 6 (24)
5. In BLO, Sc around (24)

Finish off and leave a long end for sewing.

You’ll now have a very short cylinder shape. To create the effect
of a dark colored eye socket, cut out two circles of felt about
1.5 inch wide into the eye, then sew them inside.

You could just use a slip stitch to finish off the piece, but this may not look as nice as you
might like. Instead, try the steps below to create a “fake” stitch that blends seamlessly.

Thread your sewing needle with the length of thread, then slip the needle into the next Sc
of the round (image 1).

Then, thread the needle between the top of the previous Sc (image2)

Pull the thread through, but not too tightly! You should now have what looks like a new Sc
(image 3)

1 2 3

4
Horns
Start with your black yarn. Switch back to 3.25mm hook

Make 2 horns.

1. 4Sc in a magic circle (4) 22. 4Sc, 9HDC, 5Sc (18)

2. [Inc, Sc] x 2 (6) 23-27. Sc around *5 rounds* (18)
3-4. Sc around *2 rounds* (6) 28. 4Sc, 9HDC, 5Sc (18)
5. [Inc, Sc] x 3 (9) 29. 4Sc, 9HDC, 5Sc (18)
6-7. Sc around *2 rounds* (9) 30-34. Sc around *5 rounds* (18)
8. [Inc, 2Sc] x 3 (12) 35. 6Sc, 9HDC, 3Sc (18)
9-10. Sc around *2 rounds* (12) 36. 6Sc, 9HDC, 3Sc (18)
11. 6HDC, 6Sc (12) 37-41. Sc around *5 rounds* (18)
12. IncHDC, 5HDC, Inc, 5Sc (14) 42. 9Sc, 9HDC (18)
13. 7HDC, 7Sc (14) 43. 9Sc, 9HDC (18)
14. [Inc, 6Sc] x 2 (16) 44-48. Sc around *5 rounds* (18)
15-19. Sc around *5 rounds* (16)
Switch to white yarn - see below for tip
20. [Inc, 7Sc] x 2 (18)
21. 4Sc, 9HDC, 5Sc (18) 49 - 51. Sc around *3 rounds* (18)

Stuffing the horns:

Stuff the horns as you crochet, every several
rounds or so. If you stuff them firm, you’ll end up
with more straight, rigid horns. Stuff them lightly,
and the horns can be curved with your hand. You
could also try adding wire inside the horns to
shape them.

Change color:
You can use a standard color change technique,
but it may not look as clean. Try this tutorial by
Louie’s Loops! I used this technique for these
horns and it creates a much cleaner transition.

5
Additional Parts
Front nasal bone Teeth x 2

Use your white yarn and 3.25mm hook Use your white yarn and 3.25mm hook

1. 4Sc in magic circle (4) 1. Ch 8, Ch 1 and turn, then Sc down the (16)
2. [Inc, Sc] x 2 (6) foundation chain. Sc around the back of
3. [Inc, 2Sc] x 2 (8) the foundation chain. You’ll now have a
4. [Inc, 3Sc] x 2 (10) flat oval shape
5. [Inc, 4Sc] x 2 (12) 2. Sc around BLO (16)
6. [Inc, 5Sc] x 2 (14) 3. Sc around (16)

Finish off, leave a long thread for sewing Finish off, leave a long thread for sewing

6
Assembly
This section will show you how to
assemble all of these pieces into the final
design. I'll be using pins to highlight
where pieces should be connected.

Attach Nasal Bone:

Sew the open side of the

nasal bone. This is best done
by slipping the hook in be-
tween each Sc as shown in
the image to the right. Pull
the thread tight as you stitch
for a clean finish.

7
Assemblycont.
Assembly cont.
Attach Eyes:

Pin the eyes in place with 2

pins each so they won’t
move while you sew them in
place.

Place the eyes between

rounds 13 - 21 on the skull
base, with 6Sc between
each eye. Be sure that it’s
centered so the nasal bone
falls in the middle of both
eyes.

When sewing the eyes to

the head, you’ll want to feed
your needle through the
loops around the edges cre-
ated when we worked in the
front-loop on the eyes
before.

The finished look will hold

the eyes flush to the skull.

7
8
Assemblycont.
Assembly cont.
Attach Horns:
Attach Teeth:

Place
Place the
thehorns
teeth between
between
rounds
rounds 419 - 11 onon
- 27 thethe
skull
skull
base, with5Sc
base, with 6Scbetween
between
each
each piece
pieceand about2Sc
andabout 4Sc
above
below each
eacheye.eye.The horns
Be sure
should
that it’sline up above
centered soeach
the
eye and the nasal bone
nasal bone falls in the
should line up in the center
middle of the teeth.
of the two.
The
Oncesides of theare
the horns teeth
on, you
should
can shapehugthem
the edge of the
to however
skull so they don’t bow out
you prefer.
to the sides.

Important Note: The horns

will look crooked on top -
and that’s ok!

The way the skull spirals

makes the horns appear
crooked,
For morebut by following
detail, try em-
the steps above
broidering they will
individual teeth
look
with straight
thread!from the front
and sides.

10
9
Assembly cont.
Attach Teeth:

Place the teeth between

rounds 19 - 27 on the skull
base, with 6Sc between
each piece and about 4Sc
below each eye. Be sure
that it’s centered so the
nasal bone falls in the
middle of the teeth.

The sides of the teeth

should hug the edge of the
skull so they don’t bow out
to the sides.

For more detail, try

embroidering individual
teeth with thread!

10
Optional Display
Want to display your new skull? Try mounting it for an authentic look!

Take a pre-cut wooden plaque and

screw in your square hooks. The
position of these hooks will vary
based on the finished size of your
skull and whether you want it to sit
flat on the base (the bottom nasal
bone will touch the plaque or
tilted upright as shown in the
image to the right.

For my skull, I positioned the hooks

about 2 inches from the top and
less than an inch apart. I then
slipped the ends into the back of
the skull between rounds 9 - 10,
about 3Sc apart.

The hooks harmlessly slip between

the stitches, so don’t worry about
damaging the skull! You can always
remove it and re-adjust as needed.

11
All Done!
Thank you for
following along!
I hope you enjoy
this pattern.
Try customizing the horns for
multiple looks! There are over
300 breeds of goats, so
there’s plenty of inspiration
available!

You can sell your creations

made with this pattern. But
please do not redistribute or
sell the pattern itself as your
own.

If you use this pattern, please

tag me on Instagram or
Twitter so I can see!

Instagram: @deprecatgames
Twitter: @DeprecatGames