Re Foam Your Old Speakers
Re Foam Your Old Speakers
Table of Contents
Step 9: ...glued . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
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Author:andrea biffi www.andreabiffi.com
I'm an Italian freelance structural engineer, graphic designer and photographer. I'm also investigating electronics, robotics and science in general. I enjoy
hacking and disassembling as much as designing... I love cycling, running, hikink, traveling in any way and taking spherical and gigapixel panoramas of
cityscapes and landscapes. I would have enough time to turn into instructables every my brainchild... but I still have to create the time-machine!
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Step 2: The replacements
All you need are the substitutes for your speaker's surrounds. You can choose either foam or rubber edges from eBay . To choose the right size unfortunately is not so
simple as to choose between S, M or L. You have to measure the external diameter of the cardboard cone, and the inner diameter of the steel frame. Practically you need
the exact inner and outer diameters of the bumping central stripe of the surrounds. The inner and outer diameters of the full rubber/foam piece could vary a little bit.
Measures are usually specified in inches, so if your meter use metric system, I suggest you to convert it in imperial units. Some surrounds sellers let you to choose
between flat and sloping cone border, so choose that feature after inspecting your speakers, that will affect the slope of the surround's inner stripe. I bought these an
these replacements for my speakers.
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Step 4: Removing big domes
To center the cone during the gluing, wee need to obtain access to the central steel core. Since it's usually covered by a convex cardboard plate which protect the core
from the dust, we have to take it off. With a cutter, paying attention to NOT CUT THE CONE, detach the dust cap from the cone. In the case of the subwoofer this parts
are glued to the cone and with a small pressure they could be detached. We'll see that it's not so simple for the midrange speakers.
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Step 6: Centering the cone
The paper sheet is needed to form some paper stripes, so that they can act as spacer to isolate the cylindrical core from the metal tube connected to the cone. This
thickness is not constant for every speakers, and you have to try with more sheets and lengths.
I made a mistake here since with my 80 g/m2 sheets I had to make one and half turns to reach the exact thickness. That results in a not centered cone, because the
spacer on one side is double than on the opposite side. By the way this mistake doesn't affect the speaker functioning in my case, but choose a different sheet thickness
if you encounter in a similar circumstance.
Image Notes
1. one and half turn, this is not good, read description
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Image Notes
1. one and half turn here too, try to obtain an integer number of turns
Step 9: ...glued
Indeed when the glue will dry any excess will magically disappear. You can now remove the inner paper spiral. Now make a constant pressure on the cone with your
hand and check that there is no friction at all between core and metal ring. If you feel friction, and you are sure it's not due to an unbalanced pressure from your hand, you
can unglue the external stripe of the surround, and glue it again letting it free to position.
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Step 10: Gaskets
Now set up all the foam gaskets cleaning them from any glue remains, by the way if your work is not accurate nobody will notice that ;-)
These gaskets are supposed to keep the front cover far from the surrounds, and to protect these from any accidental bump, anyway they are not essential.
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Step 12: ...and on squawkers
As you notice the foam gaskets for the midrange speakers are too tight and the make an interference with the new surrounds. This could be easily fixed cutting away a
stripe of gasket from the inside circumference.
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Step 14: ..glued on subwoofers
Place the cone in his original position, push it gently trying not to leave big lacks of glue, and leave it drying. Any small split with appear without glue will be filled
spreading it with your finger. Place a weight (not too much of course!) over the cardboard dome until it's dry. Any further split in the gluing will be filled after.
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Step 16: Refinishing
When the glue around the caps is dry you can check there are no splits, and you can add some more glue just to be sure. Spread it with your finger and let it dry. The
white will disappear if the glue is transparent enough, if not you can paint it with a black marker.
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Step 18: Ready to play!
Place back in position also the two covers, obviously after washing them. I had also to glue four new velcro pieces at their corners, because old velcro didn't work well
anymore.
Now I can enjoy my new stereo system! Do you recognize another interesting project in the picture? ;-)
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