Credit Handbook
Credit Handbook
HANDBOOK
www.ag.state.mn.us
This brochure is intended to be used as a source for general information and is not provided as legal advice.
The Credit Handbook is written and published by the Minnesota Attorney General’s Office.
This document is available in alternative formats to individuals with disabilities by calling (651) 296-3353
(Twin Cities Calling Area), (800) 657-3787 (Outside the Twin Cities), or through the Minnesota Relay Service at
(800) 627-3529.
The Minnesota Attorney General’s Office values diversity and is an equal opportunity employer.
Debt Collection...........................................................................................19
Debt Collectors.......................................................................................................................................................... 19
Answering a Lawsuit................................................................................................................................................. 20
Garnishment.............................................................................................................................................................. 21
Vehicle Repossession............................................................................................................................................... 24
Considering Bankruptcy......................................................................... 25
What Is an Automatic Stay?..................................................................................................................................... 26
Different Types of Bankruptcy.................................................................................................................................. 26
Chapter 7................................................................................................................................................................... 26
Chapter 13................................................................................................................................................................. 29
What Debts Cannot Be Discharged in Bankruptcy?................................................................................................ 31
For More Information................................................................................................................................................ 31
Resources................................................................................................... 42
Top Ten Credit Tips................................................................................................................................................... 42
Glossary of Terms..................................................................................................................................................... 43
Consumer Agencies.................................................................................................................................................. 47
This handbook is a guide to using credit. It will explain why most of us choose to use credit, provide tips to help you
choose the right credit for you, detail the fees and terms to know, explain common pitfalls, and clarify your credit
rights.
Where Do I Start?
If you don’t have a credit history, your first step will be to start building one. Consider applying for a local store’s charge
card or a small loan at a local lending institution. Although most institutions that offer credit (called “creditors”)
report their accounts to the credit reporting agencies (companies that keep track of a person’s credit history), be
sure to ask before opening an account. If the creditor does report to the reporting agencies and you pay back your
debts on time, you will begin building a good credit history. Be sure to consider how much the card or loan will cost
you and look out for hidden fees.
If you are applying for a loan or credit card from a local bank, you may want to sit down with a banker. The banker
may know you personally and can better judge your individual situation. Of course, this is less feasible for most
people today, since computers have taken over much of the guesswork involved in granting credit.
Choices! Choices!
There are three basic types of credit available. These are:
1. Revolving Credit: Most credit cards are revolving credit accounts. You have a credit limit or “line,” (the total
amount you can borrow or owe at one time) and your monthly payments are based on how much credit
you’ve used at any time. Most revolving credit is unsecured.
2. Open 30-day Agreements: Charge cards require you to pay off your balance at the end of each month (or
30-day agreement period). Your balance depends on your ability to pay and your past usage. Interest is only
charged on late payments. If you make too many late payments, you may lose the card.
Credit Cards
Many of us enter into our first consumer credit transaction when we open a credit card account. Below is a list of
some of the advantages and disadvantages of using credit cards.
1. It’s a safety net. Having a credit card helps many of us pay expenses in case of an emergency.
2. It’s flexible. Credit cards may be used almost everywhere in the world, and are often more accepted than a
personal check, or even cash.
3. It offers protections against theft. If a card is lost or stolen, federal law limits how much you will owe if it is
stolen and used by the thief.
4. It’s leverage. Chargeback protections are helpful if you are not successful in resolving a complaint about
faulty merchandise or poor service. You may be able to tell your credit card issuer that you refuse to pay for
a service or product that did not arrive or disappointed you.
5. It’s the way of the world. Credit cards guarantee reservations for hotels and rental cars, and let you purchase
items by phone or online.
6. It’s convenient. It’s easier to carry one or two credit cards than a lot of cash. This is especially true when
traveling.
7. It can help with money management. You can use your monthly credit card statements to help you budget
and track expenses.
8. It can help you get more credit. Before granting you more credit, credit issuers like to see that you have
managed money well in the past. If you have, and your credit report shows it, a creditor is more likely to give
you a loan or a new credit card.
1. It almost always costs money. If you don’t pay off your total balance every month, you will be charged
interest that can add up quickly. Credit card issuers sometimes also charge many different fees.
3. It rewards the impulse for instant gratification. Credit cards may discourage you from comparison shopping
or bargain hunting, or delaying a purchase until your finances improve.
4. It can ruin your credit score. Overuse and a bad repayment record can hurt your ability to get credit in the
future.
5. It ties up your future income. If you have debts to repay, today’s income is paying for yesterday’s bills.
So, after weighing the advantages and disadvantages to using credit cards, most of us will still choose to keep one
or two around. But which credit card is the best? And how do you know what credit is really costing you? Stay tuned.
We will explore these issues in the next two chapters.
Credit Reports
Simply put, your credit report is a compilation of your credit history data gathered by credit reporting agencies about
you. The credit reporting agencies sell this information to companies and organizations with a legitimate business
need to know how you manage credit.
As you’ve seen earlier in this book, it’s important to build a good credit history. How you handle credit today will
affect your access to credit later. For example, if you have a major credit card and several store cards and you make
payments on time and pay off your bills, your credit report will show that you have been responsible with credit. This
will help you when you wish to get a new credit card, finance a car, or get a loan to buy a house. A negative credit
rating can hurt your ability to get new credit. This is because most creditors rely on your credit history when deciding
whether to grant you credit.
• Identification and Employment Data: Your name, birthdate, address, Social Security number, employer, and
your spouse’s name are routinely listed. The credit reporting agencies may also provide other information,
such as your employment history, home ownership, income, and previous address, if the creditor requests it.
• Payment History: Your accounts with different creditors are listed, along with your credit limits, how much
of each limit you’ve used, and how you’ve repaid your debts. Related items might include collection actions
against you.
• Public Records: Public information that relates to your credit-worthiness, such as bankruptcy filings or tax
liens, will be listed.
Creditors use all of this information to judge whether you are likely to be a good credit risk.
If a creditor rejects your application for credit because of your credit report, you may ask the credit reporting agency
for a copy of your credit report. If you request it within 60 days of being turned down, the report is free. See page 38
for more information.
Be aware that some companies may try to charge you for your free annual credit report by adding on services that
you might not need. You are not obligated to buy these services to obtain a copy of your credit report. Although
consumers can only receive their credit reports for free once per year, consumers may still request additional
reports for a fee. Consumers may contact the credit reporting agencies as follows:
Consumers should dispute such errors in writing with the company and the credit reporting agencies. Under the Fair
Credit Reporting Act, credit reporting agencies must investigate disputes, usually within 30 days, and must remove
If negative information in your report is accurate, only time will erase it. Credit reporting agencies may report
negative information for seven years and some bankruptcies for ten years.
Credit Scores
Ever wonder how you really rate with creditors? As you know, creditors want to know whether you will be a good
credit risk. To help them figure this out, some companies have created credit scoring systems that creditors rely on.
The most well-known type of credit score is a FICO credit score. Your credit score is determined by assigning points
to such things as your income, how long you’ve been in your current job, what your work is, whether you own your
home or rent, how much credit you have, and more. Here’s how the system works.
Information about you and how you’ve used credit in the past (your bill paying history, the types of accounts you
have, whether you make late payments, etc.) is collected from your credit report. Scoring models may also consider
your job or occupation, length of employment, and whether you own your own home. Credit scorers use a statistical
program to compare this information to the credit performance of similar consumers. A credit scoring system
awards points for each factor that helps predict who is most likely to repay a debt. The total number of points—the
credit score—helps predict how creditworthy you are.
1. Character. Creditors believe that people with “character” will pay their bills even during difficult times.
2. Capacity. Your ability to get credit is based in part on your ability to repay your debts.
3. Collateral. These assets reflect how you’ll repay debts if your capacity fails. Unlike a mortgage or car loan,
credit card debt is unsecured. Your signature is your promise to repay the debt.
Different lenders will look at your situation and may score you differently. Therefore, it is smart to apply again if
you’ve been turned down. But here’s an important tip: don’t apply to too many places at once for credit cards. When
you apply for credit, this is recorded on your credit report as an “inquiry.” Your report lists all the inquiries made by
creditors, and too many credit card inquiries at once may cause your credit score to go down. Creditors may think
that you could have too many open accounts and become overextended.
• Pay your bills on time. Payment history is usually a significant factor in your credit score. It will hurt your
score if you pay bills late, have had a bill referred to collections, or have declared bankruptcy.
• Look at your outstanding debt. Many scoring models look at the amount of debt you have and compare this
to your credit limits. If the amount you owe is close to your credit limits, this may hurt your score. Paying
down your outstanding balances can help your score. Also, try to avoid new debt.
• Don’t apply for too many credit cards at once. If you have too many “inquiries” on your credit report,
indicating that you have applied for credit with different creditors, this could hurt your score. Remember,
not all inquiries are counted. Inquiries by creditors monitoring your account or offering “prescreened” credit
cards are not counted. Most credit scores are not affected by multiple inquiries from auto, mortgage, or
student loan lenders within a short period of time. These inquiries are usually treated as a single inquiry and
will have little impact on your score.
• Look at your current accounts. Although a track record is good, having too many credit card accounts can
hurt your score.
Sometimes you can be denied credit because of information from a credit report. In this case, the federal Fair Credit
Reporting Act requires the creditor to tell you which credit reporting agency supplied the information. You have the
right to contact that credit reporting agency within 60 days to get a free copy of your credit report
If the creditor says you were turned down because you were too close to your credit limits on your current cards
or that you have too many accounts, you may want to reapply after paying down your balances or closing some
accounts.
• Be sure you can afford to pay the loan. If you’re asked to pay and can’t, you could be sued and your credit
rating could be damaged.
• Before you pledge property, such as your car or home, to secure the loan, make sure you understand the
consequences. If the borrower defaults, you could lose these items.
• Ask the lender to calculate the amount of money you might owe. The lender isn’t required to do this but
may if asked. You also may be able to negotiate the specific terms of your obligation. For example, you may
want to limit your liability to the principal on the loan, and not include late charges, court costs, or attorney’s
fees. In this case, ask the lender to include a statement in the contract similar to: “The co-signer will be
responsible only for the principal balance on this loan at the time of default.”
• Ask the lender to agree, in writing, to notify you if the borrower misses a payment. That will give you time to
deal with the problem or make back payments without having to repay the entire amount immediately.
• Make sure you get copies of all important papers, such as the loan contract, the Truth-in-Lending Disclosure
Statement, and warranties—if you’re co-signing for a purchase. You may need these documents if there’s a
dispute between the borrower and the seller. The lender is not required to give you these papers; you may
have to get copies from the borrower.
• Annual Percentage Rate: The annual percentage rate or APR is disclosed to you when you open the account
and is noted on each bill you receive. It is a measure of the cost of credit, expressed as a yearly rate. The card
issuer also must disclose the “periodic rate.” This tells you how the credit issuer figures the finance charge
for each billing period.
• Transaction Fees and Other Charges: Credit card issuers charge other fees, too. For example, some card
issuers charge a fee when you use the card to obtain a cash advance, when you are late making your payment,
or when you go over your credit limit. Others charge a flat monthly fee whether or not you use the card. If you
end up paying these fees regularly, you can wipe out any savings you gained from a card with no annual fee
or a low interest rate.
To get the lowest price, look at both annual fees and interest rates. Ideally, you will get a card with no annual fee and
a low interest rate. More realistically, look for a card with the best combination for you. For example, if you pay your
balance off every month, look for a card with no annual fee. If you make the full payment within the grace period
each month, you will not be charged interest, so you do not need to be as concerned about the APR. If you regularly
carry a balance, you will pay interest and finance charges. In this case you should look for a card with a low interest
rate, even if it means paying an annual fee.
A word of warning: most new credit card users plan to always pay off their balance each month, so they don’t worry
about the APR on their card. Down the road, many of these same people find they don’t always pay off their balance
in full each month. So, it pays to consider the APR up front, in case you turn into a typical credit card user.
1. Average Daily Balance: The average daily balance method gives you credit for your payment from the day
the card issuer receives it. To figure the balance due, the card issuer totals the beginning balance for each
day in the billing period and deducts any payments credited to your account that day. New purchases may or
may not be added to the balance, depending on the plan. Cash advances are typically added to your balance
right away. The resulting daily balances are added up for the billing cycle, and then divided by the number of
days in the billing period to arrive at the “average daily balance.” This is the most commonly used method.
If you have an outstanding balance on your credit card, send in your payment as soon as you get your bill.
Most issuers use the “average daily balance” method to calculate interest charges. That means additional
interest charges accumulate every day that your balance goes unpaid. Even if you aren’t paying off the
balance in full, you will pay less interest for the month—and over the long run.
2. Adjusted Balance: This balance is computed by subtracting the payments you made during a billing period
from the balance you owed at the end of the previous billing period. New purchases that you made during
3. Previous Balance: This method simply looks at the balance you owed at the end of the previous billing period.
Payments or new purchases that you made during the current billing period are not taken into account.
Monthly minimum payments are usually very low—most card issuers only ask for 2-4 percent of the outstanding
balance. This helps consumers who are in a pinch—for a month or two you can make a very small payment and still
be a customer in good standing. However, if you make it a habit to only pay the minimum due, interest piles on and
you will pay a lot more over time.
Do the Math: Let’s say you have a balance of $1,000 on your credit card, and you do not add any new charges. If you
are charged 18 percent interest and you pay only the minimum payment of 3 percent each month, it will take you
almost 8 years to pay off the balance. And you will pay almost $700 in finance charges. If your minimum payment is
only 2 percent of the outstanding balance, you will be paying off this debt for almost 13 years and will pay interest
charges of $1,396.76.
Grace Period
Also called a “free period,” a grace period allows you to avoid finance charges completely by paying your balance
in full before the “due date” shown on your bill. If your credit card plan allows a grace period, the card issuer must
send you your bill at least 21 days before your payment is due. This is to ensure that you have enough time to make
your payment by the due date. The catch is that if you carry an outstanding balance from one month to the next, you
lose your grace period. In this case, most cards charge interest immediately on all new purchases that you make.
Remember that you usually forfeit your grace period if you have an outstanding balance from one month to the next.
For example, let’s say your balance is $500 this month. You are low on funds, so you just pay $200. This means you
carry a $300 balance over to next month. By doing this, you really lose twice. You will pay interest on the outstanding
balance of $300, and you will pay interest on all new purchases. And you will pay interest every month until your
balance is back to zero.
Do the Math: Credit card companies express interest rates as a monthly charge. Monthly rates are often quoted as 1
percent or 1½ percent. This seems inexpensive, but remember, this is interest only for one month. To find the APR
multiply this number by 12. Interest at 1½ percent per month would be 18 percent per year.
Extras
“Teasers” and “add-ons” are often offered by credit card companies to entice you to try their card. These gimmicks
may include warranty protection, death and disability insurance, free airline insurance, frequent flyer miles, and
roadside assistance. Sometimes these extras may really benefit you. Other times you don’t get as much value from
the so-called benefits as you expect. Remember, the key is to shop for the best card for you.
Credit Insurance
Some creditors require or encourage you to buy credit insurance when you are purchasing an item on credit or
opening a credit card. Basically, if you die, or for some other reason are unable to continue making your credit
payments, the insurance company will pay off the loan or credit card debt. This type of insurance is often overpriced
and consumers rarely get value for their money. It is estimated that more than 70 percent of the purchase price goes
to commissions for salespeople.
The services these companies offer are either already provided by your credit card companies or mirror protections
you have under federal law. Let’s look at the fine print:
You can also obtain a free copy of your report if, in the past 60 days, you were denied credit based on
information in the report. If this is the case, just contact the credit reporting agency and ask for a copy.
• You are promised registration for all your credit cards. You can make a list of your credit cards and their toll-
free customer service phone numbers. Then, if a problem occurs, you can quickly call to report lost or stolen
credit cards on your own.
• You are promised protection against fraudulent charges. Federal law already protects you against
unauthorized charges on your credit cards. The law only allows your credit card company to require you to
pay for a maximum of $50 per card if you report the loss or theft of a card within 60 days. If you report the
card lost or stolen before it is used fraudulently, you are not responsible for any future fraudulent charges.
• You are promised a 24-hour toll-free hotline. Your credit card companies already have toll-free hotlines to
report loss or theft. In addition, credit card companies say that consumers who lose their cards usually
cancel them more quickly than “credit card protection groups.”
• Whenever possible, pay your full balance each month. This way you avoid paying finance charges. When
you carry a balance forward from month to month, you lose the grace period and all new charges accrue
interest right away. Remember that leaving even a small balance can result in large interest payments the
next month.
• If you usually pay your balance in full each month, get a card with no annual fee. The interest rate the issuer
charges will matter less because you won’t usually pay it.
• Make a payment as soon as you can to reduce the interest you owe and to make sure you won’t pay a late
fee.
• Ask the card issuer if you can get a lower interest rate on your existing card for being a good customer.
• Always try to pay more than the “minimum payment” to reduce your balance faster.
• Read the mail you get from your credit card companies to spot changes in policies.
• Save all receipts and compare them with your credit card statement.
• If you believe there is an error on your statement, contact your credit card company as soon as you can.
• Know when your bill usually arrives, and contact the company if it’s missing. This helps you flag possible
fraud.
• Never give your credit card number to someone you don’t know.
• Keep track of the amounts you have charged to avoid a fee for exceeding your credit limit.
• If you have been committing a certain amount of money each month to pay off your credit card debt, don’t
stop when you get one card paid off. Earmark that same amount of money for another debt, until you are
completely paid up.
• If you have outstanding balances on more than one card, pay off the card with the highest interest rate first.
Be sure to stay in good standing by making monthly payments to each of your credit card issuers, but make
your largest payment to the card with the highest interest rate. This will help you pay off your debt more
quickly.
• If you have an outstanding balance on a card that is charging you a high rate of interest, switch to a card with
a lower interest rate and transfer your unpaid balances. First, ask your credit card issuer for a lower interest
rate. Let the issuer know you plan to cancel your card if you can’t get a lower rate. Many issuers want to
keep their current customers, so they will offer you a lower rate automatically for contacting them. If your
lender won’t cooperate with you, look for a better deal somewhere else. Just be sure to read the fine print.
For example, stipulations may limit the low interest rate to six months, or may not apply at all to transferred
balances.
• Avoid using your credit card for cash advances. A cash advance is really a loan, and usually has a hefty
interest charge attached. The rate may even be higher than the interest charged when you use your card to
pay for purchases. In addition, you usually don’t get a grace period with cash advances, so interest starts
accruing immediately.
Is Credit a Trap?
Credit can work for you or against you. It depends how you use it. Let’s look at an example. Let’s say a family has
$15,611 of debt on one credit card. The card has an annual percentage rate of 18 percent and requires a minimum
payment per month of 4 percent of the outstanding balance. If the family chooses to make just the minimum
payment each month, the family will be paying this debt off for 15 years! That’s a long time. The double whammy is
that the family will pay a lot, too. The total the family will pay is $24,851. The additional $9,240 is the interest they
will pay!
When you experience a severe credit problem, the problem can compound itself. For example, if you are unable to
pay your debts, debt collectors may start calling, your car may be repossessed, your wages may be garnished, and
you may begin to worry about keeping your home.
This chapter will walk you through the various options you have when you need help dealing with debt. However you
got to the spot you’re in, there is hope and there is help.
1. Examine your situation. List all of your debts and your income. See if you can figure out a debt payment plan
that will work for you. Remember, you will also need the discipline to follow through with it.
2. Talk to your creditors. Don’t wait until your payments are late—call right away. Creditors may be willing to
work out a revised payment plan with you. But, they cannot help you if you don’t contact them. Never ignore
your creditors. If you get mail from a creditor, open it and read it. Ignoring your credit problem for awhile will
only make it much worse later.
3. Get Help. If you feel you’re in over your head, or if you have a lot of different payments to juggle, you may
want help. Nonprofit credit counseling services offer low-cost or free counseling. Many of these agencies
will help you figure out a debt repayment plan and also work with you on budgeting and other money issues.
They will also talk to creditors on your behalf.
4. Only as a last resort, you may need to consider bankruptcy to help settle your debts.
If you are unable to pay what you owe, the interest and penalties can really add up. If you file your tax returns but
don’t pay what you owe, you will be charged a late payment penalty in addition to owing interest. If you don’t file at
all, you will pay the late payment penalty and a late filing penalty (these penalties are in addition to the interest that
will accrue on the amount you owe). If you are unsure whether you owe the government a debt, obtain a copy of
your credit report by contacting one of the three national credit reporting agencies. While the IRS does not currently
report unpaid taxes to the credit reporting agencies, tax liens do show up on your credit report.
Student Loans
When you took out your student loan you agreed to be responsible to repay it. You signed a legally binding promissory
note and agreed to repay the loan according to its terms. You are responsible for repaying the loan even if you quit
school, can’t find a job, or didn’t like the education you received.
Work directly with your school or other lender to request a deferment or forbearance. Remember, you must continue
to pay your loans until you receive notice that your request has been approved. If you stop paying when you apply for
deferment or forbearance, you may end up in default, and then not qualify for the deferment or forbearance.
If you have defaulted on your student loan, consider a couple of options. First, you may try to rehabilitate your loan.
If you successfully rehabilitate your loan, the default notation will be removed from your credit report. To rehabilitate
a direct loan or a Federal Family Education Loan (FFEL) you will have to make 9 “affordable,” consecutive monthly
payments on time. Your loan holder will determine what the payment will be, but will likely use 15 percent of your
annual discretionary income divided by 12.
Defaulted loans, even those that have been consolidated, will remain on your credit report for seven years and may
still raise a red flag with future creditors.
Home Loans
If you fall behind on your mortgage payments, contact your lender right away to avoid foreclosure. Most lenders
will work with you if they believe you’re acting in good faith and the situation is temporary. Some lenders may
reduce or suspend your payments for a short time. Other lenders may agree to change the terms of the mortgage
by extending the repayment period to reduce the monthly debt. If you and your lender are unable to work out a plan,
contact a housing counseling agency for help.
If you want to attack your debts, there are a few options to increase the money available to repay them.
• First, you may want to examine your daily living expenses and find places you can cut back.
• Second, you may consider selling assets.
• Third, you may wish to get a second job, or have a family member earn additional money that can be used to
repay debts.
If there is not enough money to repay all of your debts, you’ll have to prioritize them. If you are balancing a car
payment, a house payment, and credit card payments, common consensus is to pay the secured debt first. This
means your priority will be your house and car payments. You may also want to stay current on utilities and insurance
payments. This is so you will not lose these goods or services. For example, if you are even one day late in making a
car payment, the lender who financed your car may repossess it. Most utility service and insurance coverage stops
when you stop paying for them. House foreclosures don’t move as quickly, but if you get behind in your mortgage
payments, you will probably pay penalties and you may lose your house.
If you have severe debt, the counselor may help you set up a debt management plan. This is a systematic way to pay
down your outstanding debt. You pay money to the consumer credit counseling agency and it sends the money to
your creditors. Benefits to you include making just one monthly payment, possibly seeing finance charges reduced
or waived, and receiving fewer collection calls. You may find credit counseling agencies listed in the phone book
or online. Or, if your employer offers it, contact your employee assistance plan for help. These services are also
available through some military bases, universities, credit unions, and housing authorities.
In considering a credit counseling service, get the details about what “counseling” services the company will actually
provide. Read the contract carefully before you sign up for a debt management plan offered by such companies to
make sure you understand what is being offered. Sometimes, these companies work with for-profit companies in
consolidating your loans. Before you pay or “contribute” to any organization, check it out by contacting the National
Foundation for Consumer Credit, the Better Business Bureau, or the Attorney General’s Office. See page 47 for
contact information.
Debt settlement companies must register with the Department of Commerce. Under Minnesota law, debt settlement
companies cannot:
• Tell consumers to stop paying their creditors;
• Advise consumers that entering a debt settlement plan will shield them from interest, fees, collection activity,
garnishment, or lawsuits;
• Represent to consumers that entering a debt settlement plan will improve their credit score; or
• Falsely represent that the debt settler can negotiate better settlement terms than a debtor could on his or her
own.
Debt Collection
Debt Collectors
Knowing your rights can help you deal with collection agencies. If you owe money to a business, the business may
try to collect the money itself, or the business may hire a collection agency. Either way, you have the right not to be
harassed or abused. But your rights differ depending upon who is collecting the debt. You have more rights if an
outside collection agency has been hired.
The federal Fair Debt Collection Practices Act and state laws govern the practices of debt collectors. These laws
give you protections and set the following rules for collectors:
• Collectors may only call between the hours of 8 a.m. and 9 p.m.
• Collectors may not call you at work if you inform the collector that you can’t take personal calls at work.
• Collectors may not make false statements, use unfair practices, or harass you.
• Collectors must stop contacting you if you ask in writing.
• Collectors may not accept cash from you without giving you a receipt.
• Collectors must give you the full name of their agency.
• Collectors may not threaten you with legal action they do not intend to take.
• Collectors cannot contact your neighbors or any other third party except to locate you. (The collector cannot
reveal to the other person that the collector is trying to collect a debt.)
• Collectors cannot use postcards or envelopes which obviously come from a collection agency.
• Collectors usually cannot garnish your wages or seize your property unless they have filed a legal action
against you.
If you disagree with the collection agency, you must send the agency a letter within 30 days. If you send a letter, the
agency must stop trying to collect the debt until it sends you proof that you owe the debt.
You have the right to stop all collection attempts, at home and at work. Inform the collection agency in writing
that you no longer wish to be contacted. Once you do that, the agency can only contact you to tell you that it is
discontinuing its collection efforts, or that it is going to take some other action, such as suing you, to recover the
debt.
If you are the victim of illegal collection agency tactics, you can sue the collection agency to recover actual damages
plus punitive damages. You may also recover attorney’s fees if you are successful in your suit against the collection
agency (see page 41 for more information).
The Minnesota Department of Commerce licenses and regulates collection agencies in the state of Minnesota. If
you are interested in information on a collection agency or want to make a complaint against one, you may contact
the Minnesota Department of Commerce as follows:
Answering a Lawsuit
Start of a Lawsuit
To start a lawsuit against you, a person or company must serve a Summons and Complaint on you either: (a) by
delivering it to you personally or leaving it at your home; or (b) by mail, if you agree in writing to accept “service” of
the Summons and Complaint by mail and sign a form that so indicates. The person or company starting the lawsuit
is known as the “plaintiff.” The person being sued is known as the “defendant.” The Summons informs you that you
must provide a formal, written legal “answer” to the Complaint within 20 days after you receive the legal documents.
The Summons and Complaint served on you may not include a court file number. They are, however, the legal
documents that begin the lawsuit. It is very important that you do not ignore the documents, or you will be in
“default” and the plaintiff can automatically get a judgment against you. No court hearing is required for a default
judgment to be entered against you if you do not properly respond to the Complaint.
You should promptly consult a lawyer if you receive a Summons and Complaint claiming you owe money. If you
cannot identify an attorney to advise you, the Minnesota State Bar Association’s Attorney Referral Service is available
on the Internet at: www.mnfindalawyer.com.
Failure to Answer
If you do not “answer” the Complaint, the Plaintiff may get a “default” judgment entered against you requiring
you to pay money. By getting a default judgment, the plaintiff can then initiate a garnishment action against you.
Garnishment is a way the Plaintiff can take money out of your bank account or paycheck in order to collect the
money you owe pursuant to the default judgment.
Motion to Vacate
If judgment is already entered by the time you “answer,” you may be able to request that the judgment be “vacated”
or canceled. You must make the request to the court in which the judgment was ordered. The most common
reasons for requesting that a judgment be vacated are if you believe the judgment was entered due to: (1) mistake,
inadvertence, surprise, or excusable neglect; or (2) fraud, misrepresentation, or other misconduct of an adverse
party. Examples may include that you thought you “answered” by phone call or letter or you were not properly served
with a Summons and Complaint. Other reasons to “vacate” exist, but you may wish to consult with an attorney to
pursue those options. In any event, if you decide to request that a judgment be vacated, you should do so as soon
as possible after you become aware of the judgment. You may want to contact the clerk of court to ask whether the
clerk has a form for you to make your request.
Garnishment
Garnishment is a process a creditor may use to recover money you owe by collecting it from a third party such as
your employer or your bank. If a creditor attempts to garnish your wages or bank account, it is helpful to know how
the garnishment process works and which assets are exempt.
However, garnishment can also take place before the plaintiff has won a court judgment against you. Garnishment
can occur before judgment if you do not respond to (“Answer”) the plaintiff’s Complaint within 20 days after it
was served on you. This means it is very important that you not ignore legal documents you receive. If you do not
respond to the plaintiff’s lawsuit, then you are considered to be in “default.” If you are in default, the plaintiff only
needs to wait another 20 days (for a total of 40 days from the time the lawsuit was started) before garnishing
the amount he or she says you owe. Because of this, you should promptly consult a lawyer if you receive a legal
document called a Complaint claiming you owe money.
Finally, in rare circumstances, garnishment can take place before judgment if it appears that you intend to delay or
defraud your creditors by removing, converting, or selling your property to avoid paying the debt. The creditor in this
instance must obtain a “prejudgment garnishment order,” typically after a court hearing on the matter.
If the creditor is garnishing your wages, it must serve you with a “Garnishment Exemption Notice and Notice of Intent
to Garnish Earnings” ten days before serving garnishment papers on your employer. If the creditor is garnishing your
bank account, it can surprise you by serving you copies of garnishment paperwork within five days after it serves
them on your bank.
Exempt Wages
Generally, creditors cannot garnish more than 25 percent of your net wages, or any of your net wages if they are
less than $290 per week. If you have received public assistance based on need, then creditors cannot take any of
your wages for six months after you received the assistance, if you timely fill out the proper paperwork. To claim
that wages cannot be taken (i.e., are “exempt”), you must promptly return to the creditor’s attorney the “Debtor’s
Exemption Notice” that came with the “Garnishment Exemption Notice and Notice of Intent to Garnish Earnings.”
Calling the creditor is not sufficient. If the creditor’s attorney does not receive this exemption notice within 10 days,
the creditor can seek to garnish your wages. If the creditor does not agree that your wages are exempt, it can still
seek to garnish your wages, and you will have to ask the court to find your wages cannot be taken.
If you received public assistance based on need, the creditor cannot garnish your account for 60 days, if you timely
fill out the proper paperwork. To claim that funds in your bank account cannot be taken (i.e., are “exempt”) you must
sign and return within 14 days to the bank (and the creditor’s attorney) the “Exemption Notice” sent to you and the
last 60 days of statements for that bank account. Calling the creditor is not sufficient. You may want to include
copies of documents (i.e., benefit letters, etc.) to show why your funds are exempt. If you don’t claim an exemption
within 14 days from the date the bank mailed the exemption notice to you, the bank may turn over your frozen funds
to the creditor.
If you do claim an exemption in a timely manner, the bank will “unfreeze” your funds and release them to you in
seven days unless the creditor “objects” to your “exemption claim.” If the creditor objects, it must send you a written
objection to your exemption claim, along with a form called “Creditor’s Notice of Objection and Notice of Hearing
on Exemption Claim.” You must then attend the court hearing and show the judge why you believe your funds are
exempt. You can ask the judge to order the creditor to pay you $100 if you believe the creditor did not have good
cause to object to your exemption claim.
Here’s how to calculate the amount of your paycheck protected from garnishment:
1. Calculate your disposable earnings. Your disposable earnings include your regular pay, sick pay, and overtime,
minus all deductions including federal and state taxes, social security taxes, and any other deductions
required by law.
2. Determine what portion of your earnings will be protected. If you earn only the federal minimum wage, all of
your earnings are protected from garnishment. If you earn more, the protected amount may be calculated in
one of two ways, whichever is higher:
• Method One: 75 percent of your weekly disposable income, which is calculated as .75 x your weekly,
after-taxes earnings.
• Method Two: A week’s wages at the federal minimum hourly wage, which is figured by multiplying 40
hours by the current federal minimum wage per hour. The federal minimum wage for most Minnesota
employees is $7.25 an hour. In the following examples, we will be using the federal minimum wage.
1. Your disposable income in a week is $180. None of this may be garnished because it is less than the
minimum wage ($290).
2. Your disposable income in a week is $320. This would leave $30 available to be garnished. You would
have $80 available for garnishment using method one ($320 x .75 = $240 exemption, so $320 - $240 = $80
available for garnishment). Using method two you would only have $30 available for garnishment ($320
- $290 = $30). Remember that you get to use the number that is in your best interest, so only $30 can be
garnished.
3. Your disposable income in a week is $400. This would leave $100 available for garnishment under method
one and $110 available for garnishment under method two. In this example, method two would be in your
favor, making $100 available for garnishment.
Once the appropriate amount has been calculated and withheld by your employer or bank, your creditor typically
obtains a “writ of execution” (for a fee chargeable to you). A writ of execution is a court order that authorizes your
employer or bank to release your garnished wages or frozen bank assets to your creditor. One writ of execution can
release garnished funds over a number of pay periods. Without a writ of execution, the creditor must obtain your
written authorization to release the garnished money. You may refuse to authorize the release, or you may agree to
it in order to avoid paying the fee for a writ of execution.
Vehicle Repossession
Most automobile financing agreements allow a creditor to repossess your car any time you’re in default. No notice is
required. Your car can be repossessed when you’re just one day late in making a payment.
If a creditor threatens repossession, try to negotiate with the creditor. Repossession is an expensive option, so the
creditor may be willing to work out a payment plan with you. You may also want to talk to an attorney. Or, you may
want to consider turning the vehicle over to the creditor. This might save you money in the long run. The creditor will
When you refuse to give up the vehicle, the creditor may take you to court to try to get it back. If you lose in court,
the legal costs may be passed on to you.
If your car is repossessed, you will probably have to pay the full balance due on the loan, as well as towing and storage
costs, to get it back. If you can’t do this, the creditor may sell the car. The creditor must conduct a sale designed to get
a fair price for the car. If the creditor gets less for the car than you owe on it, you may be asked to pay the difference.
The creditor may sue you to recover the difference.
Creditors who are pursuing repossession do have to follow a few rules. For example, the car may be towed from
in front of your house, but the creditor may not break into your garage to get your car. Also, if a creditor loaned you
money to buy a car, then the creditor can only repossess the car. The creditor cannot keep other items that might be
in the car when it is repossessed.
Other property that you are paying for over time can also be repossessed if you miss payments or only make
partial payments. The creditor’s right to repossess an item will depend on what your contract says. If you have filed
bankruptcy and are within the “automatic stay,” the creditor cannot repossess anything without permission from the
bankruptcy court.
Considering Bankruptcy
In 2017, there were 767,721 personal bankruptcy filings—down from the 1.5 million filed in 2010. Several studies
suggest that medical debt is a significant cause of many of the bankruptcies in America.
Bankruptcy is designed for people caught in severe financial circumstances. If you have excessive debt, bankruptcy
is a federal court process designed to help you eliminate your debts or repay them under the protection of the
bankruptcy court. Most bankruptcy petitions are voluntary. The definition of a debtor who may file bankruptcy can
be found in the Bankruptcy Code. Deciding whether to file bankruptcy is a complicated question. You may need to
consult with an attorney, financial advisor, or credit counselor to determine if you want to file bankruptcy.
You may need to consider bankruptcy if most of these statements apply to you:
• Attempts to control your spending have failed, even after visiting a credit counselor or trying to stick to a
debt consolidation plan.
• You are unable to meet debt obligations on your current income.
• Your attempts to work with creditors to set up a debt repayment plan have not worked.
• Your ratio of debt to annual income is 40-50 percent, or more.
If you are considering filing bankruptcy, beware of fly-by-night bankruptcy filers. These people will take your money
in exchange for filing a form petition, but they cannot offer sound legal advice.
The automatic stay may provide a powerful reason for filing for bankruptcy. In most of the situations listed above,
the automatic stay can buy you a few days or weeks in which to figure out your next move. If your primary motivation
in filing bankruptcy is to gain the benefits of the automatic stay, you don’t need to file all of your papers at once. You
just need to file the three-page petition, a signature declaration, and a listing of your creditors. In addition, within 180
days prior to filing, you will have to visit an approved credit counseling agency for advice and budget analysis. You
will have to file a certification of such counseling when you file your petition. You have 15 days in which to file the
rest of your papers. If you don’t, your case will be dismissed.
Once you file, a creditor cannot take further action against you unless the creditor has permission from the
bankruptcy court. The creditor will ask the bankruptcy court to remove (or “lift”) the automatic stay if it is not
serving its intended purpose. For example, if you file bankruptcy to stop a foreclosure, but you have no equity in the
house and no income with which to make mortgage payments, the creditor is likely to ask the court for permission
to proceed with the foreclosure. In a case like this, permission will probably be granted.
Bankruptcy is a serious step. If you choose to file Chapter 7 or Chapter 13, you will probably need to hire an attorney.
Be sure to find an attorney who has experience handling the type of bankruptcy case you plan to file. The following
overview of Chapter 7 and Chapter 13 will give you some idea of what’s involved.
Chapter 7
Chapter 7 bankruptcy, you ask the bankruptcy court to discharge the debts you owe, meaning you don’t have to pay
them anymore. People with no steady income and few assets most often use Chapter 7. It eliminates most debts
but also requires immediate liquidation of some assets. Co-signers to your debts can be required to make good
on the contracts they have entered into with you. In most cases, if you file Chapter 7, you are allowed to keep your
home if you only have a small amount of equity, an inexpensive car, and limited personal property. A person may
obtain a bankruptcy discharge only once every eight years. Therefore, you should carefully consider your need for a
bankruptcy discharge and your timing.
Both state and federal exemptions include motor vehicles, your homestead, basic personal property, and tools of
your trade. Minnesota law provides exemptions in more categories and provides a more generous exemption for
your homestead. The federal exemptions provide a little cushion you can use if you do not need the homestead
exemption. Your attorney should help you determine which exemptions are best for your situation. You must claim
either state or federal exemptions, you cannot mix and match. Exemptions generally include:
• Personal Property: You generally can keep most personal property including items such as furniture,
appliances, and clothing.
• Motor Vehicles: You can generally keep a motor vehicle worth a certain amount.
• Insurance: Usually you can keep the cash value of your policies.
• Retirement Plans: Pensions which qualify under the Employee Retirement Income Security Act are fully
protected in bankruptcy.
• Public Benefits: Payments from welfare, Social Security, and unemployment insurance are protected.
• Tools of the Trade: You will probably be able to keep the tools you use for your job, up to a certain dollar limit.
• Wages: You can generally protect most of your earned but unpaid wages.
1. First, within 180 days prior to filing a petition, you will have to visit an approved credit counseling agency for
advice and budget analysis, unless certain exigent circumstances exist. Your attorney can help you find an
approved credit counseling agency and determine if you have exigent circumstances present to exempt you
from this requirement.
2. Next, you or your attorney will file your petition and other forms with the Clerk of the United States Bankruptcy
Court in your area. You must list all of your debts and creditors. You must also detail the property you own,
your income, money owed you, insurance policies owned, current monthly living expenses, property you are
claiming as exempt, as well as money that may be inherited within six months. You must also list property
you owned, sold, or gave away.
3. Once your attorney files your bankruptcy petition, the automatic stay goes into effect. This stops your
creditors from trying to collect what you owe them. The automatic stay stops wage garnishment, lawsuits,
and other negative action. (See page 26 for more information on the automatic stay.)
4. After the bankruptcy petition is filed, a trustee will be appointed by the court. The trustee’s primary duty is
to the creditors. This means the trustee will be interested in what you own and what exemptions you are
claiming. The more the trustee recovers for creditors, the more the trustee is paid.
5. The trustee will review your file and hold a hearing called the “creditors’ meeting.” At the meeting the trustee
will ask you questions. You must attend this meeting, but creditors rarely do. These meetings generally last
about five minutes.
6. After this meeting, the court-appointed trustee takes control of your property that is to be sold and delivers
property to the secured creditors, if appropriate. Once property is sold and administrative costs are paid, the
remaining cash is paid proportionately to all creditors.
7. The bankruptcy court later holds a hearing to inform you whether your debts have been discharged or not.
Debts may not be discharged if someone objected or if the debts are nondischargeable.
8. Prior to receiving a discharge, you must complete an instructional course concerning personal financial
management.
9. If you want to keep property that is used as collateral, like your car, you can continue making the payments
on it. The creditor may ask you to “reaffirm” the debt, meaning you agree to keep making payments on it
again. Talk to your attorney about whether it is better to keep making the payments without reaffirming the
debt. The bankruptcy court must approve all reaffirmations of debts.
• You have a co-signer on a loan, and you do not want to stick the co-signer with your debt.
• You will not be able to discharge enough of your debts. For example, debts you will still owe after filing
for Chapter 7 include: back child support and alimony obligations, most student loans, tax liens on your
property, and income taxes less than three years past due.
• You will have to give up more property than you would like to. For example, if you are filing bankruptcy to
help you keep your home, this will better be accomplished by filing for Chapter 13. If you are behind on your
mortgage, a Chapter 7 case will not help you catch up on the mortgage payments, so a Chapter 7 bankruptcy
would not help you keep your home. However, in a Chapter 13 case you can pay your mortgage arrears in the
Chapter 13 plan, in an attempt to keep your home.
• You defrauded your creditors. If you’ve recently taken a lavish vacation or bought luxury items, all the while
intending to file bankruptcy, bankruptcy may not help you. Creditors may object to discharging these debts,
and a court would probably agree.
Chapter 13
Chapter 13 reorganizes your debt rather than liquidates your assets. When you file under Chapter 13, a debt
repayment plan is designed to pay off as much of your debt as possible, usually within three or five years. When you
file Chapter 13, you agree to pay approximately 25 percent of your income to the court. A bankruptcy trustee will
supervise the plan, handle your money, and distribute it to pay off the debts covered by your plan of reorganization.
Chapter 13 is also called personal reorganization because it is most often used by people with regular incomes and
less than $394,725 in unsecured debt and less than $1,184,200 in secured debt. These limits are valid as of June
2018, but federal law changes these limits periodically. (Examples of unsecured debt include credit and charge card
purchases, medical and dental bills, rent, and loans from family or friends. Secured debts are home mortgage loans
and vehicle loans.) The actual amount of money paid to creditors depends on the amount you owe, your salary,
and the payback time frame. Depending on your income level, Chapter 13 payment plans may be proposed for 36
months, but most often plans are for 60 months. The maximum time allowed is five years.
However, despite these drawbacks, there are some good reasons people choose Chapter 13 over Chapter 7.
Reasons include:
1. First, within 180 days prior to filing a petition, you will have to visit an approved credit counseling agency for
advice and budget analysis, unless certain exigent circumstances exist. Your attorney can help you find an
approved credit counseling agency and determine if you have exigent circumstances present to exempt you
from this requirement.
2. Your attorney will file your bankruptcy petition with the federal bankruptcy court in your area. To do this
properly, you will need to compile the following information:
• A list of all of your creditors and the amounts you owe.
• The source of your income and how often you get paid.
• A list of your property.
• A detailed listing of your monthly living expenses.
3. You will either file a plan of repayment with your petition, or within 15 days of filing the petition. This plan must
provide for full payment of all priority claims, which usually includes secured claims. If the plan classifies
claims, it must provide the same treatment for each class of creditors. The plan also details the amount of
your future income that you will deposit with the trustee to repay your debts.
4. When you file for bankruptcy, the automatic stay goes into effect. This stops creditors from trying to collect
the debts you owe. See page 26 for more information.
5. When you file, a trustee is appointed to administer your case. The trustee will collect the money you pay in
under your plan and disburse the money to your creditors.
6. Within 30 days of filing your plan, you must begin making payments to the trustee. This is true even if the
court has not yet confirmed your plan.
8. Unsecured creditors who have claims against you must file their claims with the court within 90 days after
the first date set for the meeting of creditors. If an unsecured creditor fails to file, they may not do so later.
9. At a confirmation hearing, the bankruptcy judge will determine if your plan is feasible and meets the standards
for confirmation. Creditors do not vote on the plan, but they may object to the plan. Creditors most frequently
object if they will receive less under your Chapter 13 plan than if you filed Chapter 7 and liquidated all of your
assets. If your plan is not confirmed, the money you have already paid will revert to you. As the debtor, you
have the right to dismiss your case or convert it from Chapter 13 to Chapter 7.
10. Once the court confirms your plan, it is your responsibility to make the plan succeed. You will continue making
payments under your plan for the three- or five-year period specified in your plan. A confirmed plan may be modified
if your financial situation changes. If you stop making payments and the Chapter 13 gets dismissed, your debts are
not discharged and your creditors can resume collection.
11. You are entitled to a discharge when you successfully complete an instructional course concerning personal
financial management and your plan payments.
In a Chapter 7 and 13 case, a creditor may object, and a judge may agree, to these additional debts being discharged:
• Debts incurred by embezzlement, fraud, or larceny.
• Certain credit purchases made within 90 days or cash advances made within 70 days of filing.
• Restitution or damages awarded in a civil action for willful or malicious injury to a person.
Debit and ATM cards are not credit cards, because you are not borrowing money when you use them. These cards
allow you easy access to your own money. Because they are not credit cards, debit and ATM cards do not help build
your credit rating. What they do offer is convenience.
ATM Cards
ATM cards, or Automatic Teller Machine cards, are used at ATMs to withdraw cash from your bank account. You
type a password (a Personal Identification Number or PIN) into the ATM to verify your identity and activate the card.
• You have less bargaining power with a debit card than with a credit card. With a credit card you have the right
to refuse to pay for a purchase if you are not satisfied with it. With a debit card you have already paid for the
item, so you have less bargaining power.
• A thief with your debit card and PIN can take all the money in your account. The thief can even make point-
of-sale purchases with your card.
• Your liability is limited to $50 if you report the debit card lost or stolen within two days. If you do not report
the card lost or stolen within two days, your liability can jump to $500. After 60 days, you can be responsible
for the entire amount (Visa and MasterCard have voluntarily implemented zero liability policies, but this
protection is not written into law, and some requirements or exceptions may apply).
• You may wish to enter debit card transactions into your checkbook ledger, like you would record checks
you write. If you sign up for online access to your bank account you can review your debit card transactions
before—or even instead of—receiving monthly statements.
Don’t:
• Lend your card(s) to anyone.
• Leave cards or receipts lying around.
• Sign a blank receipt. When you sign a receipt, draw a line through any blank spaces above the total.
• Write your account number on a postcard or the outside of an envelope.
• Give out your account number over the phone unless you’re calling a company you know is reputable. If you
have questions about a company, check it out with your local consumer protection office or Better Business
Bureau.
Identity theft is a growing concern for citizens across Minnesota and the rest of the country. A few vital bits of
personal data are a gold mine for information crooks looking to steal your identity. An impostor using personal
information like your address, birthdate, and Social Security number can acquire phony credit cards, siphon money
from your checking or savings accounts, get a mortgage, and even give you a criminal record.
Maybe the identity theft is first noticed when you don’t receive your monthly credit card statement. Or, you receive
your bill and it contains charges from places you have never been. Either way, you may be the latest victim of a crime
that can wreak havoc on your personal finances.
Worse, you may not even be aware your identity has been stolen until something goes wrong. Over the last decade,
the explosion of information available to businesses and companies about individuals is staggering. In addition,
creditors are often willing to give consumers access to thousands of dollars of credit quickly and with little
information.
Any Minnesotan can impose such a freeze on his or her personal credit report for any reason for free. When a credit
reporting agency receives a freeze request, it must place the freeze within three days of the request, and provide a
unique PIN to the consumer within 10 days of the request.
When your credit file is frozen, you cannot be approved for new credit. In order for you to obtain new credit, you must
use your PIN and contact the credit reporting agencies to thaw your file. While credit reporting agencies are to thaw
credit reports in an expedited manner, thawing your file may take up to three business days. Be sure to plan ahead
and temporarily thaw your credit file before applying for credit.
The consumer may then use the PIN to temporarily lift or “thaw” his or her report for a specific period of time or for
a specific creditor. For example, suppose that you are looking to purchase a new car. If you know that you want to
buy the car from Dealership XYZ, you may contact the credit reporting agencies and allow that specific dealership
to access your credit report. Or you may request that your credit report be accessible to any creditor for a specific
period of time, such as 30 days, to give you time to shop at several dealerships. After the specified time, your credit
report will automatically refreeze.
Be sure to keep the PIN in a safe place. If you forget your PIN, you can get a second one for free, but will have to pay
$5 for a third one. Like placing the freeze, consumers can also thaw their credit reports without charge.
Because different credit issuers may use different credit reporting agencies, you will need to freeze your credit
report with each of the three major credit reporting agencies. Each of the three credit reporting agencies has its own
process for taking credit freeze requests.
For instructions on how to request a credit freeze, consumers may contact the credit reporting agencies as follows:
Credit reporting freezes are one defense in the fight against identity theft. As this crime continues its climb to the
top of law enforcement charts, you can be proactive in protecting yourself from its expensive, time-consuming
consequences by freezing your credit report.
• Keep and carry as few credit cards as possible. After completing a credit card transaction, make sure that
the card you get back is your own. Cancel all credit accounts you don’t use and when you open a new credit
account, ask that a password is used before any changes or inquiries can be made.
• Review statements. Carefully review all bank and credit card statements, canceled checks, and phone and
utility bills. Report any discrepancies. If statements don’t arrive on time, contact the post office and the
creditor to ensure your mail is not being diverted.
With respect to accounts that have been opened fraudulently or tampered with, contact the creditor and
ask to speak with someone in their fraud department. Be sure to follow up in writing, file a police report, and
keep copies of all documents for your records.
• Guard your information. Your checks should not have your driver’s license number or phone number preprinted
on them. Never put your Social Security number on a check. Don’t let a merchant write a credit card number on
your check. Shred all personal documents before you discard them so a thief who picks through your recycling will
come up empty. If you have reason to think someone else is using your Social Security number, call the
Social Security Administration to verify the accuracy of your account.
• Use your telephone with caution. Avoid giving out your credit card number or other personal information over
the telephone unless you have a trusted business relationship with the company. Do not provide personal
information over unencrypted wireless communications such as cell phones.
• Check your credit report. You are entitled to a free copy of your credit report once each year from each of
the three credit bureaus. Free annual reports may be requested in the following ways:
1) Log on to: www.AnnualCreditReport.com
2) Call: (877) 322-8228
3) Write to: Annual Credit Report Request Service, P.O. Box 105281, Atlanta, GA, 30348-5281
• Make sure the report is accurate and includes only those activities you have authorized. If there has
been fraud on your account, tell each credit reporting agency to flag your file with a fraud alert including a
statement that creditors should contact you for permission before they open new accounts in your name.
• Stop pre-approved credit card offers. In addition to maintaining your credit report, the three major credit
reporting agencies sell your credit information to companies. To remove your name from the generated
lists, you should call the “Opt Out” hotline for the three major credit reporting agencies Equifax, Experian, and
TransUnion at: (888) 5OPT-OUT ((888) 567-8688) or online at www.optoutprescreen.com.
• Be vigilant. These steps to protect your personal information will make it more difficult for someone to steal
your good name, but be vigilant because, as technology makes the transfer of information easier, crooks will
try to find ways around today’s safeguards.
Advance fee loan scams may sound appealing, because ads promise that companies can deliver loans no matter
what your credit situation. Often you are asked to make some type of up-front payment. This is illegal. Usually you’ll
lose your money and never see a loan.
Businesses and some nonprofit organizations that offer debt counseling and reorganization plans may charge high
fees and fail to follow through on the services they sell. Others may misrepresent the terms of a debt consolidation
loan, failing either to explain high costs or to mention that you’re signing over your home as collateral. Other
businesses advertising debt reorganization may not explain that they are really pushing Chapter 13 bankruptcy, an
option that may not be right for you.
Companies offering “credit repair” promise to clean up your credit history. These con artists can’t deliver or may
charge you to do what you could do for yourself for free. They may also advise you to do something illegal. No
matter which approach they take, they are likely to disappear with your money, leaving you worse off than when you
started.
You may be the target of another credit repair scheme, often called “file segregation.” You are promised a chance to
hide unfavorable credit information and establish a new credit identity. The scheme is illegal.
Usually when you pay money to the crooks running these offers you will be directed to apply for an Employer
Identification Number (EIN) from the Internal Revenue Service (IRS). These numbers are typically used by businesses
to report financial information to the IRS and Social Security.
After you receive your EIN, you are told to use it in place of your Social Security number when you apply for credit. If
you defraud the government this way, you could face fines or even prison.
• If you find a billing error, you have 60 days to notify the creditor in writing.
• Your letter must be acknowledged within 30 days of receipt, unless the problem is resolved within that
period.
• The creditor must correct the mistake or explain why the bill is correct within two billing cycles or 90 days.
• If you do not accept the creditor’s explanation, you have 10 days to inform the creditor that you still refuse to
pay the disputed amount.
• Legally, at this point, the creditor may begin collection procedures. However, any reports to a credit reporting
agency must include a note that your refusal to pay was due to a billing dispute.
• A creditor may not threaten your credit rating during the billing dispute. Once you have notified the creditor,
the business must not give information to credit reporting agencies that would damage your credit record.
• You have the right to withhold payment on any damaged or poor quality goods or services purchased with a
credit card, as long as you make a serious attempt to resolve the problem with the merchant.
• You have the right to obtain a free copy of your credit report from each of the three national consumer
reporting agencies once per year. The copy you receive must contain all the information in your report at that
time.
• You have the right to know who has received your report in the last year, and two years for employment
purposes.
• If you are denied credit because of information in your credit report, the creditor must tell you the name and
address of the credit reporting agency used.
• You have the right to a free copy of your credit report when your application for credit is denied due to
information in the credit report. Your request for a free report must be made within 60 days of receiving the
denial notice.
• If you contest the accuracy or completeness of your credit report, you should file a dispute with the credit
reporting agency and with the creditor that provided the information. Both the credit reporting agency and
the company providing the data are required to reinvestigate your complaint.
• You have a right to add a brief explanation to your credit report if the dispute is not resolved to your
satisfaction.
• A valid EFT card can be sent to you only if you request it.
• Unsolicited cards can be issued only if the card cannot be used until it is validated.
• The financial institution must tell you your rights by providing a written disclosure statement, including the
procedures to use to correct errors in your statements.
• You are entitled to a written receipt when making deposits or withdrawals from an ATM or using a card to
make a purchase. The receipt must include the amount, the date, and the type of transfer.
• Statements must confirm the amount of all transfers, the dates and types of transfers, the types of accounts
used, and the address and phone number to use to make inquiries about the statement.
You have 60 days from the date a problem or error appears on your written receipt or statement to notify your
financial institution. If you miss the 60-day period, you may have little recourse.
If you report an ATM or EFT card missing before it is used without your permission, the card issuer cannot hold
you responsible for any unauthorized withdrawals. If unauthorized use occurs before you report the card lost, the
amount for which you can be held responsible depends upon how quickly you report the loss.
• If you report the loss within two days, the most you can be charged is $50.
• If you report the loss after two days, but before 60 days, the most you could lose is $500 (Visa and MasterCard
have voluntarily implemented zero liability policies, though some requirements and exceptions may apply,
and this protection is not written into law).
• If you do not report the loss within 60 days, you risk losing all the money in your account plus any unused
portion of your line of credit.
In addition:
• Creditors must let you know within 30 days if your credit application was rejected.
• Creditors must provide a written statement explaining why your application was rejected.
• Creditors are required to report information to the credit reporting agencies in the names of both spouses if
you have a joint account.
• You have the right to have reliable public assistance considered in the same manner as other income.
Creditors may develop their own criteria to judge potential customers as good credit risks. Items that a creditor may
legally ask you about include:
• Your income, savings, and investments.
• Your occupation and how long you’ve been with your present employer.
• How long you have lived at your present address.
• Whether you own or rent your home.
The law requires a written contract with the following costs and terms stated:
• Total price of the item.
• Amount of any down payment, such as a security deposit.
• Total number of payments.
• Amount of payments.
• Due date for payments.
• It prohibits debt collectors from using abusive, deceptive, and unfair practices such as:
- Using abusive language or making threats.
- Using the telephone to annoy you.
- Contacting you at inconvenient times or places.
- Misrepresenting themselves to you.
- Threatening a lawsuit or other action that the creditor does not intend to take.
- Collecting more from you than you owe.
• It limits debt collector contact with third parties (except to locate you).
• It requires that if you owe several debts, the money you provide must be applied as you wish.
2. Pay your bills on time. This will help your credit rating, and eliminate costly late fees.
3. Pay your bills in full if possible. This will eliminate finance charges.
4. Always pay more than the minimum payment. If you don’t, it will take forever to get caught up on your bills,
and you will pay a lot of money in finance charges.
5. Reduce your reliance on credit. When you do use credit, keep track of how much you spend. Remember that
impulse purchases add up fast.
6. Save your receipts. Then you can compare your receipts to your monthly bill and promptly report any
problems.
7. Never lend your credit card or debit card to anyone. Don’t share your PIN either. You could just be setting
yourself up for fraud.
8. Set a budget and stick to it so you don’t end up owing more than you can afford. This could damage your
credit rating. A negative credit rating can make it harder to finance a car, rent an apartment, buy a house, or
even get a job.
9. Check out your credit report at least once a year. Make sure it accurately reflects your financial situation, and
check for potential fraud.
10. If you are overwhelmed by credit debt, seek help. Don’t delay. Facing up to your financial problems will help
you begin solving them.
Annual Fee: A flat, yearly charge imposed by credit card Chapter 7: The chapter of the Bankruptcy Code that
companies, similar to a membership charge. provides for liquidation of a debtor’s assets. The
proceeds are distributed to creditors.
Annual Percentage Rate (APR): The measure of the
cost of credit, expressed as a yearly rate. Chapter 13: Also called personal reorganization, this
type of bankruptcy allows a debtor to keep property
Asset: Property that can be used to repay debt, such as
and pay debts over three or five years.
a car or home.
Claim: A creditor’s assertion of a right to payment from
Automated Teller Machine (ATM): Electronic terminals
a debtor or the debtor’s property.
that consumers can use to make deposits, withdraw
money, and conduct other financial transactions. Collateral: Property offered to support a loan and
subject to seizure if you default on the loan.
Automatic Stay: A temporary injunction that
automatically stops lawsuits, foreclosure, Complaint: The first document in a lawsuit that notifies
garnishments, and all collection activity against the the court and the defendant of the grounds claimed
debtor the moment a bankruptcy petition is filed. by the plaintiff for an award of money or other relief
against the defendant.
Bankruptcy: A legal procedure in federal court for
dealing with the debt problems of individuals and Confirmation: Approval of a plan of reorganization by
businesses. a bankruptcy judge.
Bankruptcy Code: The formal name for Title 11 of Co-Signer: A person who signs a loan or credit contract
the United States Code, (11 U.S.C. 101-1330), the with someone else, thereby assuming equal
bankruptcy law. responsibility for the loan or agreement.
Bankruptcy Estate: All legal or equitable interests of Credit: The right granted by a creditor to pay in the
the debtor at the time of the bankruptcy filing. (The future in order to buy or borrow in the present.
estate includes all property in which the debtor has
Credit Reporting Agency: An agency that keeps your
an interest, even if it is owned or held by another
credit record. The credit reporting agency creates
person.)
credit reports about you based on your credit history.
Credit Report: Information provided by a credit reporting Equity: The value of a debtor’s interest in property that
agency to someone with a legitimate business remains after liens and other creditors’ interests are
need. The report details how you have borrowed and considered. (For example, if you have a home valued
repaid debts. at $100,000 and you have a $60,000 mortgage on
the home, you have $40,000 in equity.)
Credit Scoring System: A statistical system used to
rate credit applicants according to characteristics Exempt Property: Property that a creditor is not allowed
relevant to creditworthiness. to take to repay a debt.
Creditor: A person or business owed money by a debtor. Exemption: Property that state law or the Bankruptcy
Code permits a debtor to keep from creditors.
Creditworthiness: Past and future ability to repay debts.
Finance Charge: The dollar amount you pay to use
Debit Card: A plastic card that consumers use to make
credit. This includes interest costs and all charges
purchases, access cash, or make other types of
associated with the transaction.
electronic funds transfers.
Forbearance: Asking the lender for a temporary break or
Debtor: Formally, a person who has filed a petition for
reduction in student loan payments.
relief under the Bankruptcy Code. Informally, anyone
who owes money. Garnishee: The third party, often an employer or a bank,
that holds your assets.
Default: Failure to repay a loan or otherwise meet a
credit obligation. Garnishment: When a creditor wins a judgment against
you in court and then collects it by taking money out
Defendant: An individual against whom a lawsuit is filed.
of your bank account or paycheck.
Deferment: A legal right to postpone payment on a
Grace Period: The number of days you have before a
student loan.
credit card company starts charging you interest
Discharge: A release of a debtor from personal liability on new purchases. Not all credit cards have grace
for debts. periods. Also called a free period.
Dischargeable Debt: A debt for which the Bankruptcy Joint Account: An account held by two or more people so
Code allows the debtor’s personal liability to be that all can use the account and all are responsible
discharged. for paying any debts under it.
Motion to Lift the Automatic Stay: In bankruptcy Point-of-Sale (POS): The point at which a consumer
proceedings, a request by a creditor to allow the makes a payment to a merchant, usually by having
creditor to take action against a debtor that would money taken electronically from their accounts and
otherwise be prohibited by the automatic stay. deposited in the merchant’s account.
No-Asset Case: A Chapter 7 bankruptcy case where Priority: The Bankruptcy Code’s identification and
there are no assets available to satisfy any portion ranking of some unsecured claims. This determines
of the creditor’s claims. the order in which certain unsecured claims that
are considered priority claims are paid if there is
Nondischargeable Debt: A debt that cannot be
not enough money to pay them all in full. Some
discharged in bankruptcy.
examples of priority claims that may be ranked by the
Objection to Discharge: A trustee’s or creditor’s objection Bankruptcy Code are attorney’s fees, accountant’s
to a debtor receiving any discharge in bankruptcy. fees, child support, and some tax debts.
complaint)
Hennepin County
Dakota
Ramsey County
220 South River Ridge Circle
(651) 224-1755
Burnsville, MN 55337
(651) 699-1111 or (800) 646-6222
(for attorney referrals in the above counties)
www.bbb.org/minnesota
(for help with consumer questions, to file a complaint, Federal Trade Commission
or to check the complaint data about a company) Consumer Response Center
600 Pennsylvania Avenue NW
Minnesota Department of Commerce
Washington, DC 20580
Financial Institution Divisions – Banking
(877) 382-4357
85 7th Place East, Suite 280
www.consumer.ftc.gov
(651) 539-1570 or (800) 657-3602
(for help with entities regulated by the FTC, such as
www.mn.gov/commerce
finance companies, stores, auto dealers, mortgage
(to file a complaint about a state chartered bank or
companies, and credit reporting agencies)
other state chartered financial institution)
National Credit Union Administration
U.S. Government Publishing Office
Office of Public and Congressional Affairs
(844) 872-4681
1775 Duke Street
https://pueblo.gpo.gov
Alexandria, VA 22314-3428
(to review and order hundreds of federal government
(703) 518-6330
publications)
www.ncua.gov
(for help with federally chartered credit unions)
If you have a consumer complaint, you may You can also receive direct assistance from a
contact the Attorney General’s Office in writing: consumer specialist by calling:
Minnesota Attorney General’s Office (651) 296-3353 (Twin Cities Calling Area)
445 Minnesota Street, Suite 1400 (800) 657-3787 (Outside the Twin Cities)
St. Paul, MN 55101 (800) 627-3529 (Minnesota Relay)
Additional Publications
Additional consumer publications are available from the Minnesota Attorney General’s Office. Contact us to receive
copies or preview the publications on our website at www.ag.state.mn.us.
The Office of
Minnesota Attorney General Keith Ellison
helping people afford their lives and live with dignity and respect • www.ag.state.mn.us