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Sunscreen Formulation General

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76 views22 pages

Sunscreen Formulation General

Uploaded by

Rounita Devianasari
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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SUNSCREEN

FORMULATION
PT. Menjangan Sakti
Topics

Sunscreen product in
global market

UV filters for UVB and UVA


protection

Formulation

Q&A
UV
FILTERS
UVA-II

Spectrum of UV Filters
Take care of each wavelengths
a. Exctintion profile
SPF 14 = 5% EHT, 10% DBT
b. transmision profile
SPF 50 = 5% EHT, 10% DBT + 4% MBBT

Source : Osterwalder, Uli; Sohn Myriam; Herzog Behrn. Global State of Sunscreen. Photodermatology,
www.sunscreen-optimizer.com
Photoimmunology, Photomedicine. page 62-80. John willey&Sons, Ltd. 2014
www.sunscreen-optimizer.com

Calculated SPF 28
In Vivo SPF 50+
How to explain this?
www.sunscreen-optimizer.com
Ideal distribution

Real distribution

Substrate = skin
Need formulation that gives good layer on skin
Source : Osterwalder, Uli; Sohn Myriam; Herzog Behrn. Global State of Sunscreen. Photodermatology, Photoimmunology, Photomedicine. page 62-80. John willey&Sons, Ltd. 2014
Ideal Sunscreen Formulation
Safe & Meeting the regulation

UV filters efficiency, low dosage UV


filter can achieve optimum SPF & PA
protection

Good film former, good layer on skin

Good sensory

Cost efficient
Combine the right
UV filters Photostability

Boost SPF

Broad
spectrum
MBBT is reported to improved the photo stability of OMC;
without MBBT, 27% of OMC was lost after irradiation 10
MED, in the presence of MBBT the lost only 8%(1)

Octocrylene are reported can stabilize Avobenzone


due to triplet-triplet quenchers activity(1).
Recommended ratio Avobenzone : Octocrylene = 1 :
0.8 - 1,5

BEMT is reported to improved the photostability of


Avobenzone. Recommended ratio
Avobenzone : BEMT = 1 : 1 or 1 : 0.7

EHT is reported to improved the photostability of


Avobenzone. Recommended ratio
Avobenzone : EHT = 1 : 0.3 - 0.8

Mineral UV filter (Zinc Oxide or Titanium Dioxide) will boost Source :


Nadim A. Shaath. Sunscreens Regulations and Commercial Development 3rd Vol. 28.
SPF when used together with OMC Taylor&Francis. 2015 Chatelain E., Gabard, B. Photostabilization of Avobenzone and OMC by BEMT,
A New UV Broadband Filter. Photochemistry and Photobiology 2001, 74(3): 401-406.
Broad Spectrum

*SPF 15 sunscreen with different


degrees of UVA protection
profiles, from UVB-biased
toward the ideal sunscreen
(garments) calculated with UV
simulator

Source : Osterwalder, Uli; Sohn Myriam; Herzog Behrn. Global State of Sunscreen. Photodermatology, Photoimmunology, Photomedicine. page 62-80. John willey&Sons, Ltd. 2014
Film former,
good layer on skin Sensory

Thickness

homogeneity
Emollient selection to ensure
UV filter solubility

Source :
Nadim A. Shaath. Sunscreens Regulations and Commercial Development 3rd Vol. 28. Taylor&Francis. 2015 Chatelain E., Gabard, B. Photostabilization of Avobenzone and OMC by BEMT, A New UV Broadband Filter. Photochemistry and
Photobiology 2001, 74(3): 401-406.
Effect of compositional
SELECT UV FILTERS
film hight and surface
roughness on SPF
thickness and homogeneity
of sunscreen film on skin
contribute to SPF number

How to achieve good film former?


by adding film former?

It's not enough!


Maintain film former on skin with
liquid crystal or lamellar structure

Potassium Cetyl
Phosphate
Emulsifier with Liquid Crystal
or Lamellar structure

2% POTASSIUM CETYL
PHOSPHATE

Heliofeel Potassium Cetyl Phosphate


lamellar structure liquid crystal
Forget me not!
Preservative in sunscreen
Preservative in high sunscreen products is tricky

These are tips for preserving a sunscreen product :


Do not use formaldehyde donor preservative in sunscreen contain
Avobenzone

Increase paraben dosage when using with ethoxylated non-ionic


surfactants

Increase Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin


(Euxyl PE 9010) dosage up to 1.5% or use preservative combination with
Sensiva PA 40

Non-Phenoxyethanol formula can usecombination of Propanediol,


Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylhydroxamic acid
Source :
Nadim A. Shaath. Sunscreens Regulations and Commercial Development 3rd Vol. 28.
Taylor&Francis. 2015 Chatelain E., Gabard, B. Photostabilization of Avobenzone and OMC by BEMT,
(Sensiva SC 80)
A New UV Broadband Filter. Photochemistry and Photobiology 2001, 74(3): 401-406.
Format Technology
Emulsion Oil

Gel Cream Water

Spray Oil + Alcohol

Stick Bi-Phase
Formulation
LOOK INSIDE
SUNSCREEN PRODUCT

UV Filter

Emollient

Emulsifier, co emulsifier

Film Former

additional
thank you
APPLICATION LAB PT MENJANGAN SAKTI

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