Designation: D1683/D1683M − 11a

Standard Test Method for

Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel Fabrics1
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D1683/D1683M; the number immediately following the designation indicates the
year of original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last
reapproval. A superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S. Department of Defense.

1. Scope 2. Referenced Documents

1.1 This test method measures the sewn seam strength in 2.1 ASTM Standards:2
woven fabrics by applying a force perpendicular to the sewn D76 Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for Textiles
seams. D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
NOTE 1—The grab test procedure in Test Method D5034 shall be used D5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of
to determine any characteristic in fabric that can affect the measurement of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
sewn seam strength.
D5822 Test Method for Determining Seam Strength in
1.1.1 This test method is applicable to sewn seams obtained Inflatable Restraint Cushions
from a previously sewn article or seams sewn with fabric D6193 Practice for Stitches and Seams
samples using either a specific seam assembly (see Table 1), or
production seam assemblies. 3. Terminology
3.1 Definitions:
1.2 This test method is used when a breaking force to
3.1.1 needle damage, n—in sewn fabrics, the partial or
rupture, a minimum elongation, or both are required to complete yarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a needle
determine the sewn seam strength, seam slippage, or seam passing through a fabric during sewing.
integrity of a particular fabric for a specified end use.
NOTE 2—This test method is used in conjunction with Test Method
3.1.2 seam allowance, n—in sewn fabrics, the distance from
D5034, which is used to measure breaking force and elongation of textile the edge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from that
fabrics. Sewn seams in woven fabrics can fail due to rupture, slippage, or edge.
any combination thereof. Rupture can be further categorized as failure or 3.1.3 seam assembly, n—the composite structure obtained
fabric, or sewing thread, or seam slippage.
when fabric(s) are joined by means of a seam.
1.3 This test method does not predict actual wear perfor- 3.1.3.1 Discussion—A seam assembly may be described in
mance of a seam. terms of fabric orientation, seam direction, seam type, stitch
type, seam allowance, sewing thread tex number(s) and type(s)
1.4 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units
stitch density, stitch gage, and rows of stitching.
are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in
each system may not be exact equivalents; therefore, each 3.1.4 seam effıciency, n—in sewn fabrics, the ratio, ex-
system shall be used independently of the other. Combining pressed as a percentage, of the breaking force required to
values from the two systems may result in non-conformance rupture a sewn seam to that required to rupture the fabric.
with the standard. 3.1.5 seam engineering, n—in sewn fabrics, the procedures
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the used to select a specific combination of sewing thread, stitch
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the type, seam type, and stitch density to achieve the maximum
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro- sewn seam strength for a particular fabric type.
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica- 3.1.6 seam failure, n— in sewn fabrics, that point at which
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use. an external force (1) ruptures the sewing thread, (2) ruptures
the fabric, (3) causes excessive yarn slippage adjacent to the
stitches, or (4) causes any combination of these unacceptable
1
conditions.
This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.
2
Current edition approved July 1, 2011. Published August 2011. Originally For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
approved in 1990. Discontinued in 1999 and reinstated in 2004 as D1683–04. Last contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
previous edition approved in 2011 as D1683–11. DOI: 10.1520/D1683_D1683M- Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
11A. the ASTM website.

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 D1683/D1683M − 11a
TABLE 1 Standard/Default Seam Assembly SpecificationA
Fabric: High Density Warp and Filling Yarn Construction made of Fine Count Yarns
Mass up to 270 g/m2 [8 oz/yd2] over 270 g/m2 [8 oz/yd2]
Seam allowance 13 mm [0.5 in.] 16 mm [0.625 in.]
Needle:
Size Metric 90 [0.036 in.] Metric 110 [0.044 in.]
Finish chrome chrome
Point thin ball (No.1/No. 23) medium ball (No. 23/No. 43)
Sewing thread size:
Cotton Tex 35 Tex 70
Polyester-core Tex 40 Tex 60
Seam Type Ssa-1 Ssa-1
Stitch Type 301 301
Stitch Density 4.7 ± 1⁄2 stitches per centimetre 3.1 ± 1⁄2 stitches per centimetre
[12 ± 1⁄2 stitches per inch] [8 ± 1⁄2 stitches per inch]
Fabric: Medium Density Warp and Filling Yarn Construction made of Fine to Medium Count Yarns
Mass up to 270 g/m2 [8 oz/yd2] over 270 g/m2 [8 oz/yd2]
Seam Allowance 25 mm [1 in.] 25 mm [1 in.]
Needle:
Size Metric 110 [0.044 in.] Metric 140 [0.054 in.]
Finish chrome chrome
Point medium ball (No. 43/No. 44) medium ball (No. 43/No. 44)
Sewing Thread:
Cotton Tex 70 Tex 105
Polyester-core Tex 60 Tex 90
Seam type SSn-2 SSn-2
Stitch type 301 301
Stitch density 4.7 ± 1⁄2 stitches per centimetre 3.1 ± 1⁄2 stitches per centimetre
[12 ± 1⁄2 stitches per inch] [8 ± 1⁄2 stitches per inch]
Fabric: Low Density Warp and Filling Yarn Construction made of Medium to Heavy Count Yarns
Mass up to 270 g/m2 [8 oz/yd2] over 270 g/m2 [8 oz/yd2]
Seam allowance 40 mm [1.5 in.] 40 mm [1.5 in.]
Needle:
Size Metric 110 [0.044 in.] Metric 140 [0.054 in.]
Finish chrome chrome
Point medium ball (No. 44) heavy ball (No. 45)
Sewing thread size:
Cotton Tex 70 Tex 105
Polyester-core Tex 60 Tex 90
Seam type SSd-2 SSd-2
Stitch type 401 401
Stitch density 4.7 ± 1⁄2 stitches per centimetre 3.1 ± 1⁄2 stitches per centimetre
[12 ± 1⁄2 stitches per inch] [8 ± 1⁄2 stitches per inch]
A
A complete description of seam types and stitch types can be found in Practice D6193.

3.1.6.1 Discussion—Despite the lack of rupture, excessive 3.1.9 sewn seam, n—in sewn fabrics, a juncture at which
seam slippage will either significantly reduce seam efficiency, two or more planar structures such as textile fabrics, are joined
or, result in an unsightly appearance thus creating seam failure. by sewing, usually near the edge.
3.1.7 seam slippage, n—in sewn fabrics, a mode of failure in 3.1.10 sewn seam strength, n—in sewn fabrics, the maxi-
production seams. mum resistance to rupture of the junction formed by stitching
3.1.7.1 Discussion—Shown as a transverse ratio of junction together two or more planar structures.
strength to fabric strength including the ratio of elongation of 3.1.11 slippage, n—in sewn fabrics, the displacement of one
fabric to the ratio of elongation at the junction. Seam slippage, or more fabric yarns from their original position, so as to cause
occurs when fabric yarns parallel to the stitch line move away differences in alignment, spacing or both.
from the seam. It is caused by the yarns in the fabric pulling out 3.1.12 standard seam, n—a seam assembly which uses a
from the stitch line, and manifests itself as a gaping opening. specific seam type for a designated fabric having specific
Any movement of the warp and weft yarns away from a seam weight, density and construction, as shown in Table 1.
line under transverse stresses, which exacerbate the potential
damage. (See yarn slippage.) 3.1.13 stitch, n—in sewn seams, the repeated unit formed by
the sewing thread(s) in the production of seams.
3.1.8 seam type, n—in sewn fabrics, an alphanumeric des-
ignation relating to the essential characteristics of fabric 3.1.14 stitch density, n—in sewn fabrics, the number of
positioning and rows of stitching in a specified sewn fabric stitches per unit length in one row of stitching.
seam. 3.1.15 stitch gage, n— in sewn fabrics, the perpendicular
3.1.8.1 Discussion—The first two letters of the designation distance between adjacent parallel rows of stitching.
show seam type; the third and subsequent letters specify a 3.1.16 stitch type, n—a numerical designation relating to the
particular mating alignment; the number designation indicates essential characteristics of the interlacing of sewing thread(s)
the number of rows of stitches. in a specified stitch.

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3.1.16.1 Discussion—Stitch types are described in Practice 5.4 This test method is applicable whenever a determination
D6193. of effective sewn seam strength, that is, the optimum seam
3.1.17 yarn slippage, n—a mode of failure of fabrics when interaction, is required. The breaking force of the seam and
sewn using a standard seam. fabric will permit determination of seam efficiency. This test
3.1.17.1 Discussion—The displacement of one or more method can aid in determining optimum seam interaction for
fabric yarns from the original position(s) so as to cause any given fabric by comparing the properties of the fabric with
differences in alignment and spacing of both yarns. and without seams.
3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in this test 5.5 Seam engineering techniques for specific fabric types
method, refer to Terminology D123. can also be determined by utilizing this test method.
5.6 This test method can be used to determine when the
4. Summary of Test Method
sewn seam is affected by seam slippage. While the ultimate
4.1 This test method can also be used to measure seam consequence of this phenomenon is rupture, seam slippage
slippage by subtracting the elongation of the fabric from that of greater than either the values stated in customer specifications,
the fabric with a seam in it. or as agreed upon by purchaser/supplier may severely reduce
4.2 The applied force is longitudinal and perpendicular to the integrity such that the product cannot be used for its
the seam. intended purpose. (An example of a commonly used seam
4.2.1 A force is applied until seam failure occurs. slippage value is 6 6 1 mm [0.25 6 0.04 in.]).

5. Significance and Use 6. Apparatus

5.1 This test method can also be used to determine either the 6.1 Tensile Testing Machine, as used in Test Method D5034
sewn seam strength of textiles or the efficiency of a seam conforming to Specification D76, and preferably a constant-
assembly with any given fabric. Additionally, the seam rate-of-extension (CRE) type of machine capable of jaw
strengths of different fabrics can be compared directly by using separation rate of 305 6 10 mm/min [12.0 6 0.5 in./min] and
one of the standard seam assemblies specified in Table 1. an adequate pen or interfaced computer response to record the
Because current information about laboratory precision is force-extension curve. When a CRE type of machine is not
incomplete, comparative tests may be advisable. used, a constant-rate-of traverse (CRT) type of machine. (See
5.1.1 In case of dispute arising from differences in reported Note 4.)
test results when using this test method for acceptance testing NOTE 4—In cases of dispute a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) type
of commercial shipments, the purchaser and the supplier machine should be used to referee testing. Because of the biases between
should perform comparative tests to determine if there is a test results for these types of tensile testing machine, report the name, type
and date of calibration of the machine used.
statistical bias between their laboratories. Competent statistical
assistance is recommended for the investigation of bias. As a 6.1.1 At least one clamp should be supported by a free
minimum, the two parties should take a group of test speci- swivel or universal joint to allow the clamp to rotate in the
mens from the same lot of fabric to be evaluated, which utilize plane of the fabric.
a like seam assembly (or standard seam assembly). The test 6.1.2 Back Jaws, 25 6 1 mm [1 6 0.04 in.], parallel to
specimens should then be randomly assigned in equal numbers direction of force application by not less than 50 6 1 mm [2 6
to each laboratory for testing. If a bias is found, either its cause 0.04 in.] perpendicular to direction of force application. (See
must be determined and corrected, or the purchaser and Note 5.)
supplier must agree to interpret future test results in light of the NOTE 5—Front (or top) faces measuring 25 6 1 by 50 6 1 mm [1.0 6
known bias. 0.04 by 2.0 6 0.04 in.] will not necessarily give the same value as 25 6
1 by 25 6 1 mm [1.0 6 0.04 by 1.0 6 0.04 in.] faces. For many materials,
5.2 This test method determines the seam efficiency of a the former are preferable because of the larger gripping area which tends
specified seam assembly with each fabric. Because seam to reduce slippage. While both sizes of gripping surface are permitted, the
efficiency varies with each fabric, one of the standard seam face sizes used must be the same for all samples in the test and must be
assemblies, as noted in Table 1, should be used when compar- recorded in the report.
ing the seam strength of different fabrics. Table 1 lists the 6.1.3 Front Jaws, 25 6 1 by 25 6 1 mm [1 6 0.04 by 1 6
default seam assembly specifications to be used for fabrics 0.04 in.].
made with fine, medium and heavy count yarns. If a determi-
6.2 Sewing Machine, with any necessary accessories ca-
nation cannot be made as to which seam is the best suited for
pable of handling the test fabric and forming the required
a particular fabric, all should be evaluated.
seam(s) and stitch types.
5.3 Seams prepared for this test method should be made by
6.3 Sewing Threads, to be either of required type, materials,
competent factory sewing operators familiar with the potential
and tex size as determined by purchaser and supplier, or of the
for damage to the integrity of the sewn seam when stitching is
type, materials, and tex size specified for standard seams in
improperly done. (See Note 2.)
NOTE 3—If competent factory sewing operators are not accessible, a
Table 1.
laboratory technician familiar with the potential for damage of an 6.4 Dividers, one pair.
improperly sewn seam may prepare the seamed test specimens. It is
imperative for purchaser/supplier to understand the impact an improperly 6.5 Metal Rule, graduated in 1-mm [0.03125-in.] subdivi-
sewn seam will have on test results. sions.

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7. Sampling Manufactured Items in the laboratory sampling units, modify the sampling plan as
7.1 Specimens can be taken from either previously sewn agreed between the supplier and purchaser. (See Note 7.)
NOTE 7—When the specimen length of 350 6 3 mm [14 6 0.1 in.] is
seam or from structures made with sewn seams as noted in not attainable so as to provide sufficient length of fabric perpendicular to
Table 1, or using a seam assembly as agreed to between the seam, to allow adequate seam strength testing and fabric strength
purchaser and supplier. testing, a modification must be agreed to between purchaser and supplier.
A comparison of the fabric break strength as determined by Test Method
7.2 Lot Sample for Manufactured Items—As a lot sample for D5034, of the two fabric swatches used in the seaming to the sewn
acceptance testing, take at random, the number of shipping strength of the seam assembly is required to produce a value indicative of
units of manufactured items containing sewn seams as directed the seam efficiency.
in a material specification or other agreement between the
purchaser and the supplier. (See Note 6.) 8. Sampling of Seams Prepared from Fabric
NOTE 6—An adequate specification or other agreement between the 8.1 Lot Sample for Fabric—As a lot sample for acceptance
purchaser and supplier requires taking into account the variability between testing, take at random the number of rolls of fabric directed in
cartons of previously manufactured items or rolls of fabric from which
an applicable material specification or other agreement be-
sewn seam will be prepared; and between specimens from a carton of
manufactured items or prepared constructions to produce a sampling plan tween the purchaser and supplier.
with a meaningful producer’s risk and consumer’s risk, while at the same 8.2 Laboratory Sample for Fabric—After discarding 1 6
time providing acceptable quality and limited quality levels.)
0.1 m [1 6 0.1 yd] from the outside roll, take a swatch 3 6 0.1
7.3 Laboratory Sample for Manufactured Items—Take suf- m [3 6 0.1 yd] in length and the full width of the fabric to
ficient manufactured items from each carton of a lot sample as construct an adequate quantity of the seam assembly, which is
to provide adequate laboratory samples and adequate speci- to be evaluated.
mens for each assembly being evaluated. If more than one type 8.2.1 Specimen Preparation—As a source of test specimens,
of seam assembly exists in the laboratory samples, the choice cut five specimens 350 6 3 mm [14 6 0.1 in.] by 100 6 3 mm
of seam assembly to be evaluated must be agreed upon by the [4 6 0.1 in.] with their long dimensions parallel either to the
purchaser and supplier. warp (machine) direction or to the filling (cross) direction, or
7.4 Test Specimens from Manufactured Items—Cut five test cut specimens for testing from both directions if required. (See
specimens for each specified seam assembly in each of the Fig. 2.) Preferably specimens for a given fabric direction
warp and fill directions (where applicable) from the specified should be spaced along a diagonal of the fabric to allow for
manufactured item(s) in the laboratory sample. Cut each representation of different warp and filling yarns, or machine
specimen to a total length of 350 6 3 mm [14 6 0.1 in.] and cross direction areas, in each specimen. When possible,
perpendicular to the proposed seam, with 250 6 3 mm [10 6 filling specimens should contain yarn from widely separated
0.1 in.] on one side of the seam and 100 6 3 mm [4 6 0.1 in.] filling areas. Unless otherwise specified, take specimens no
on the opposite site of the seam, and a width of 100 6 3 mm nearer to the selvage, or edge of the fabric, than one tenth of the
[4 6 0.1 in.] parallel to the stitch line(s) of the seam. (See Fig. width of the fabric. Depending on the direction in which seam
1.) If the required number of specimens cannot be cut from strength is to be tested, sew swatch as follows:
each laboratory sampling unit or if there is more than one seam 8.2.2 Fold the specimen 100 6 3 mm [4 6 0.1 in.] from one
end with the fold parallel to the short direction of the fabric.
Sew a seam as agreed upon by purchaser and supplier (Note 8).
(See Fig. 3.)
NOTE 8—In the absence of an agreement on the construction of a seam
assembly, prepare a standard seam using the specifications from Table 1.
These seam assembly specifications are categorized by fabric weight, yarn
density and construction, as shown in Table 1. These default seam
assemblies are to be used when production seams are not available, or
specified.
8.2.3 After seaming, cut the fold open. The test specimen
should contain a seam approximately 100 6 3 mm [4 6 0.1 in.]
from one end. Each test specimen will contain sufficient
material for one seamed and one fabric test. (See Fig. 1.)
8.2.3.1 Yarns parallel to direction of force, and perpendicu-
lar to the seam, when tested, indicates seam strength test
direction. (See Note 9)
NOTE 9—When preparing sewn seams to be evaluated for failure, it is
suggested that distinct colors of sewing thread be used to easily identify
warp, filling directions, or the specimens be marked accordingly.

9. Conditioning
9.1 Condition the specimens by bringing them from the dry
side to approximate moisture equilibrium for testing in the
FIG. 1 Seamed Specimen Removed from Manufactured Item standard atmosphere for testing textiles as directed in Practice

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FIG. 3 Seamed Specimen Dimensions Prepared from Fabric

FIG. 2 Cut Specimen Dimension from Fabric

D1776. Equilibrium is considered to have been reached when

the increase in mass of the specimen in successive weighings
made at intervals of not less than 2 6 0.1 h does not exceed
0.1 % of the mass of the specimen.
9.2 The following conditioning periods are a minimum
exposure time for the particular fiber types listed. Heavy FIG. 4 Seamed Specimen Removed from Manufactured Item
fabrics or fabric blends may require a longer period of
conditioning time to reach moisture equilibrium.
Conditioning Period
Fiber 10.1.1 Determine the stitch density by counting the stitches
(h)
Animal fibers (for example wool) and 8 ± 0.1 per centimetre [stitches per inch].
regenerated proteins
Vegetable fibers (for example cotton) 6 ± 0.1 10.1.2 With the fabric in the open front position (as shown
Viscose 8 ± 0.1 in Fig. 4) place the specimen into the clamp with the seam line
Acetate 4 ± 0.1 centrally located between the clamp faces and perpendicular to
Fibers having a moisture regain less than 2 ± 0.1
5 % at 65 % relative humidity the pulling force.
10.2 To aid in placing specimens into the testing machine, it
10. Procedure is recommended to draw vertical alignment guides perpendicu-
10.1 All Sewn Seam Samples—Specimens are cut from lar to the stitch line 40 6 3 mm [1.5 6 0.1 in.] from both edges.
samples to achieve specimen size shown in Fig. 4. For matched top and bottom jaws of equal width, measuring

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 D1683/D1683M − 11a
from the edge to perpendicular lines drawn on the specimen specimen and the starting point on a zero ordinate and
can ensure proper placement in the clamps. (See Fig. 5.) corresponding abscissa.
10.3 Machine Set-up Conditions—Adjust the distance be- 10.4.3 Ensure that no clamp slippage occurs during the test.
tween the clamps at the start of the test at 75 6 3 mm [3 6 0.1 There are several options available to check for clamp
in.]. (See Fig. 5.) Select the force range of testing machine so slippage, an example of which follows: Distinction between
that break occurs between the 10 and 90 % of full-scale force. clamp slippage and fabric slippage within the specimen can be
10.4 Sewn Seam Strength and Seam Slippage—To calculate determined by measuring the elongation of the intermediate
seam slippage, the load versus displacement curve for the sewn space between the upper and lower limits of the clamp gage
seam must be compared to the load versus displacement curve area. (See Fig. 5.)
for the fabric. (See Fig. 6.) Place the pen of the recording 10.4.3.1 Measure two points 25 6 3 mm [1.0 6 0.1 in.] both
device on the zero ordinate and any convenient abscissa, start above and below stitch line and (1) draw parallel lines, (2)
the tensile testing machine and continue the procedure until the attach a device which measures elongation either mechanically
sewn seam or fabric ruptures. Stop the machine and reset to the or electronically, and (3) record the change in length between
initial start position. (See Note 10 for computerized software these two lines.
program information.) 10.4.4 Note the actual time of break for the first three
NOTE 10—Computerized software programs are available from various specimens. If the time of break for these specimens is within 20
tensile testing equipment manufacturers. Although these programs are 6 3 s, do not determine the time of break for the remaining
available to testing facilities, it is imperative that the laboratory operators/ specimens and do not report the average time of break. If the
technicians fully understand the test parameters used in the calculations time of break for the first three specimens is outside 20 6 3 s,
for both Sewn Seam Strength and Seam Slippage.
determine the time of break for each specimen and report the
10.4.1 During application of the force to the sewn seam average time of break.
specimen, observe and record whether the seam rupture is 10.4.4.1 If the average of the three tests meets the time
caused by (1) fabric yarn rupture, (2) sewing thread rupture, (3) criterion set up, these observations shall be part of the number
sewn seam yarn slippage, or (4) a combination of two or more
of tests. Record and report separately the test results in either
of the foregoing.
warp or filling directions.
10.4.2 For measurement of seam elongation, prepare a
force-elongation chart, having the curve set separated for each 10.5 Elongation of Base Fabric:

FIG. 5 Seamed Specimen Placement in Clamps

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10.5.1 To determine the elongation of the fabric of a that the specimen was damaged, or that the test was carried out
previously manufactured item, use the remainder of fabric improperly, disregard the test determination and test another
specimen, perpendicular to the seam not utilized in sewn seam specimen. The reason for disregarding this determination must
strength testing (see Fig. 1, Fig. 3, or Fig. 4), and test as be reported.
indicated in Test Method D5034. The pen of the recording 10.6.2 When a fabric manifests any slippage in the jaws, or
device must be placed on the same zero ordinate and abscissa if more than 24 % of the specimens break at a point within 5 6
as used to test the corresponding sewn seam. 1 mm [0.2 6 0.04 in.] of the edge of the jaw, then (1) the jaws
10.6 Discarding Data—Causes for failure which yield may be padded, (2) the fabric may be coated under the jaw face
breaking force values that are significantly below average area, or (3) the surface of the jaw face may be modified. If any
include, but are not limited to (1) specimen slippage in jaws, of these modifications are used, state so in the report.
(2) breaks at the edge of (or in) the jaws, and (3) faulty
operation of test equipment. The decision to discard the results 11. Calculation
of any failing specimen must be agreed to between purchaser
and supplier. In the absence of any such agreement, these 11.1 Sewn Seam Strength—Calculate the maximum sewn
specimens and results shall be retained. seam strength of individual specimens having a like seam
10.6.1 Any decision to discard the results of a breaking assembly; that is, maximum force in Newtons to cause a
force test shall be based on observation of the specimen during specimen to rupture as read directly from the testing instrument
the test. When a determination is significantly below the using Eq 1:
average for the set of specimens and there is physical evidence S s 5 kSb (1)

FIG. 6 Seam Slippage Chart

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 D1683/D1683M − 11a
where: 12.2.2 Seam efficiency using Eq 2,
Ss = sewn seam strength, N [lbf], 12.2.3 Force required to effect seam slippage of 6 6 1 mm
k = a constant equal to 1000 for SI units and 1 for [0.25 6 0.04 in.] to the nearest 2 6 0.1 N [0.5 6 0.02 lbf] or
inch-pound units, and other end point, or seam slippage value as determined by
Sb = observed seam breaking force, N [lbf]. specification or agreed upon by purchaser and supplier,
11.2 Seam Effıciency—Determine percent seam efficiency 12.2.3.1 Indicate type of failure: for example, rupture char-
using Eq 2: acterized by fabric break or thread break, or slippage, or if
force to break exceeds capacity of testing machine,
E 5 100 S s /F b (2) 12.2.4 Time to break as discussed in 10.4.4,
where: 12.2.5 If requested, the standard deviation, coefficient of
E = seam efficiency, %, variation, or both, of any of the properties,
Ss = sewn seam strength, N [lbf], and 12.2.6 Number of specimens tested in each direction,
Fb = fabric breaking force, N [lbf]. 12.2.7 Type and size of jaw faces (clamp design) used,
11.3 Measurement of Seam Slippage—To measure 6 6 12.2.8 Type of padding used in jaws, modification of
1-mm [0.25 60.04-in.] seam slippage, set the dividers at one specimens gripped in the jaws, or modification of jaw faces, if
quarter the distance of chart travel for 25 6 3 mm [1 6 0.1 in.] used,
of jaw travel. (See Note 11.) Recorders may exhibit distinct 12.2.9 If requested, the make and model of testing machine
ratios of actual magnification. (See Fig. 6.) and full scale load range used for testing an date of calibration,
and
NOTE 11—Example: Set dividers to 7 6 1 mm [0.28 6 0.04 in.] for a 12.2.10 Any modification of procedure as discussed in Note
1.25:1 ratio; at 6 6 1 mm [0.25 6 0.04 in.] for a 1:1 ratio; at 14 6 1 mm 11.
[0.56 6 0.04 in.] for a 2.250:1 ratio.
11.3.1 To this setting, add the compensation, the distance 13. Precision and Bias
between the force-elongation curves of the sewn specimens at
the 4.5-N [1-lbf] ordinate (point B,C, Fig. 6). See Note 12. 13.1 Two laboratories conducted an interlaboratory test in
2002 using randomly drawn seamed and unseamed specimens
NOTE 12—The 4.5 N [1 lbf] is the standard force at which the initial (see Appendix X1 from Test Method D5822). The standard
compensation (elongation difference) is recorded between the paired seam
and fabric seams. While certain stitch configurations do not demonstrate
fabric used was 630 denier Nylon 66, plain weave, uncoated,
elongation, others are specifically configured to allow for elongation count 41 by 41.
before stress-to-rupture occurs. The 4.5 N [1 lbf] is intended to be a 13.2 As indicated in Appendix X1 from Test Method
constant for evaluating all sewn seam strength specimens.
D5822, the test procedure is reliable at the 95 % confidence
11.3.2 With the dividers set as in 11.3, follow the force- level.
elongation curve for the fabric with one point of the divider
until the other point of the divider meets the force-elongation 13.3 Variability in results using this test method can be
curve of the sewn seam and both points rest on the same attributed, but not restricted to, the following: (1) fabric
ordinate. slippage in clamps; (2) yarns not parallel to direction of test;
11.3.3 Record the force in newtons [pounds-force] to the (3) vertical alignment guides not drawn parallel to yarns; (4)
nearest 2 6 0.1 N [0.5 6 0.02 lbf] at this ordinate. jaw face misalignment; (5) the axis of the seam assembly not
11.3.4 Subtract the 4.5 6 0.01-N [16 0.02-lbf] compensa- perpendicular to direction of force when testing. See notes 6, 7,
tion and record the result as resistance to seam slippage. and 8 from Test Method D5822 for further discussion on
11.3.5 Repeat this procedure for the additional sewn seam controlling such variability.
specimens. 13.4 Comparison of results from tensile testing machines
operating on different principles of traverse is not recom-
12. Report mended. When different types of machines are used for
12.1 State that the tests were performed in accordance with comparison testing, constant-time-to-break at 20 6 3 s is the
ASTM D1683. Describe the material or product being sampled established way of producing data. Even then the data may
and the method of sampling used. differ significantly.
12.2 Report all of the following items for the sewn seams
tested: 14. Keywords
12.2.1 Sewn seam strength in newtons [pounds-force] for 14.1 seam efficiency; seam slippage; sewn seam; sewn seam
each specimen tested and the average of the results using Eq 1, strength; yarn slippage; woven fabric

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 D1683/D1683M − 11a
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