20/07/2024, 12:55 Huldaclark Zapper : 14 Steps - Instructables

Huldaclark Zapper
By crogers11 in CircuitsElectronics

Introduction: Huldaclark Zapper

Have you heard of a Huldaclark Zapper? Probably not, but all over you tube people are making cla
ims that this zapper will improve health. Does it work? Who knows? So I decided to make one bec
ause they said on you tube that it would cure my abscessed tooth problem. You will have to google
how it works and all as the explanation can be long, but the short of it is that a 15 hertz 8 volt squar
e wave is out put onto leads that you can attach to your body. This frequency is supposed to wake
up your white blood cells which will then remove all toxins and bacteria that is not supposed to be t
here.

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Step 1: Material List

Check out the schematic.

R1- 3.3k
R2- 39k tied to a 4.7k, making a total of 43.7k
R3- 1k
R4- 3.9k
R5- 4.7k
C1- 10pico farad
C2- 1micro farad
L1- LED 3ml

555 timer
a socket for the 555 timer
switch
9 volt battery
battery harness
wire 18 guage or so
project box ( the one i got was too small) get the size up from 2"by3" by 1.5"
I left off the alligator clips from the finish project because I decided I didn't need them. On the sche
matic you may see the alligator clips represented. I simply never attached the alligator clips but I lef
t the resistors that go just before the alligator clips, just in case I ever wanted to put alligator clips o
n later in the future at another time down the road. the penny electrodes would be good enough for
my application of holding the device to the jaw next to the aching tooth. in the schematic below, the
circles on the left of the schematic represent pennies

two pennies

silicone goo
black tape
velcro
velo board

like i may have said before, it cost about 40 bucks the way I did it as I bought extra components as
I had to purchase in packages of more than I needed. here is most of the stuff I needed to make th
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e project. here are all of the resistors (except 10 picofarad capacitor and a 39k resistor) Below is th
e plastic project box, the vero board, caps, resistors, battery. still need to get a switch and an ic soc
ket for the 555. Turns out later that the box was too small, but I ended up using it anyway by putting
the battery on the outside.

Step 2:

Here is the schematic. Be sure to notice that pin2 is jumped to pin6. I will point out in a later picture
of the physical components which wire it is that I used to jump pin2 to pin6.
R1- 3.3k
R2- 39k tied to a 4.7k, making a total of 43.7k
R3- 1k
R4- 3.9k
R5- 4.7k
C1- 10pico farad
C2- 1micro farad
L1- LED 3ml

555 timer
switch
9v battery

I used .5 Watt, 10 percent tolerance resistors, The circles on left of schematic represent copper pen
nies. I soldered some resistor wire remnants onto pennies. I set the solder iron up to 1000 degrees
fahrenheit and set the tip on the penny for about twenty seconds until the penny was hot enough to
melt the solder that was touching the penny a quarter if an inch away from the solder iron tip that w
as also touching the penny.

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Step 3:

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r2 is weird because in order to get the right resistance needed we had to add two resistors in serie
s. I guess that the store doesn't sell the exact resistance we need for r2. Notice down below a pictu
re of two resistors twisted together. This is a 39k and a 4.7 k added together. Don't let it trip you ou
t, just wire these two resistors into series and then treat it as one resister called r2, even though it is
really two resister. Notice the socket for the 555 timer. This socket allows me to take out the 555 w
hen I am soldering the back of the board and then put the 555 in the socket when I am done with al
l the hot soldering. This also allows me to switch out the 555 when ever I might need to.

These are just pictures of my laying out the components onto the velo board. I just try to recreate th
e schematic with real parts. It can be a good exercise to figure out what holes to use and how to ge
t these parts together. The 555 has pins that start with number one pin in the upper right corner of t
he chip. The upper right corner also has a depression to denote the number one pin. Pin counts co
unter clockwise from pin one.

I just put the components where I could and soldered the back part of the velo board. I soldered all
of the leads together that needed to be soldered together. I soldered wires to the end of component
s on the back side of the velo board, though the soldering is shown in the next step. In these pics y
ou can see all of the leads from the components sticking through the back of the velo board waiting
for me to cut and solder.
Pay attention to the positive lead and negative lead of the LED. Also pay attention to polarity with t
he capacitors. Some caps are omnidirectional, some are not.
Also notice that the LED will be replaced in future pictures as the project moves along. I am using t
his LED to simply test the circuit on the velo board before I put it into the project box. Also the red b
utton at the top of the circuit is an on off switch that I am using tempararily and will trade with a mor
e heavy duty toggle switch later. The toggle switch and LED will be mounted into the project box.

Step 4:

at the top of this picture is a red button that closes the circuit. I used it temporarily to test the circuit
before I start to fit the circuitry into the project box. Notice six resistors, two capacitors, one LED, on
e button switch, a 555 IC in a IC socket.
I still need to put some jumper wires into the circuit.

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Step 5: Zapper

this is how i placed the components. I have the red LED in this breadboard in these pictures. Later,
I take it out when I mount the LED on the box. About the kit box-- when it came down to it, the box
was too small to fit a nine volt battery into and so I made it so that the battery is velcroed to the out
side of the box. It could be more elegant, I know. Now I know that it all has to go in a bigger box or I
need to make the circuitry smaller next time.

When i have the components soldered in place in a pretty tight grouping. I will cut the velo board to
make the circuit board compact to fit into project box.
Here you can see the two resistors that make up r2. These resistors are wound together on one en
d of each. I solder the wire wrap later.

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Step 6: Premature Testing of Output

Here, I attached the oscilliscope to the out put points to see if I have 15 Hertz. When all I could find
for an out put was a steady 7 volts, had to look closer at the circuit to see where I messed up. Tur
ns out that I had ignored 3 wires that needed to be put in.

A jumper from p2 to p6 of the 555. A hot lead to pin 4 and a ground lead to pin 5. The yellow wire c
rossing over the 555 is the jumper from p2 to p6. Don't forget to put this jumper in. Once I put these
wires in, the circuit came out perfect at just under 15 Hertz and the LED flickers on and off. The LE
D seems like it is at half power because it is off half of the time.
You can see on the oscilliscope that there is a square wave and if you can enlarge the picture of th
e o scope, you might see that it is a frequency of 14 and a half Hertz.
Now, I will take out the LED and red button switch. To fit the circuit board into the project box.

In this pic, you can see the solder job that is not good looking at all, but it all works.

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Step 7:

In this picture I am cutting down the size of the board so that it will fit into the project box. I have cut
out the switch that I had set into the board because I need a better one, permanent one. this one w
as good for testing the circuit before putting it into the project box. The switch that I am cutting out r
equires me to hold the switch to keep the device running. So instead I will put a toggle switch into t
he circuit. Also at this stage, I have put the circuit together and have tested the output by using the
oscilliscope. Now that I know that it works, I am going to change a couple things up to fit it into the
project box. One thing I will change is the LED because I need the LED to be showing on the outsi
de of the project box as it will be my indicator that the circuit is on and working. So I will cut out this
led that I used to test it on the circuit board. I will solder some wires in so that I can attach the LED t
hat I am gluing to the project box to the circuit. The other thing I will change is the on/off switch as I
already said, also instead of having the switch in the breadboard, I will have it mounted on the outsi
de of the project box.

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Step 8: Temp Switch and LED

here are more pics of the temperary switch and LED on the velo board that I remove from circuit lat
er as I mount the LED and switch onto project box instead.

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Step 9: Holes in Project Box

Here I have drilled a hole in the top of the project box to let the wires for the battery come through.
I will call the small lid part of project box the top, perhaps the "lid" would be better. This zapper will
have an external battery as the box won't hold the circuitry and the battery together. So as you can
see in later pics, I have mounted the battery to the lid. I suppose that the next size bigger box shoul
d be used in the future, but I don't find it important enough of a matter to go back to the store. I will
use this box just fine.

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Step 10:

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Here a resistor wire end is soldered to the penny. I will not be using those resistors, I will cut them
off and leave the wire attached to the penny. All I really needed was the wire. this wire I will send th
rough a hole in the top of the project box and I will glue the penny to the box. I use tape to hold the
pennies in place until the silicone "goo" is dried (about 8 hrs). After I send the wire lead that is solde
red to the penny through the lid, I twist and solder the wires from the circuit board.

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Step 11: LED Glued Into Box and Wires Run to Circuit From L
ED

Here I am gluing the LED into a hole drilled in the side of the project box. This will be my "on" indica
tor. I set it in place and tape it from the front and I tape the wire leads to secure the LED into place
and then I put silicone goo dabbed all around it and when the glue dries the LED is secure and in pl
ace. Then I remove the scotch tape. Maybe there is a more profesional way to attach LEDs to proje
ct boxes. I will have to look that up. Silicone glue worked for me this time. I soldered wire to the LE
D leads and soldered that wire to the appropriate place in the circuit. I solder the negative lead fro
m battery to pin 5 and the positive lead from battery to a switch that I will put in real soon.
You can see a red and black wire coming in through the hole in the lid. The black wire will be sold
ered to pin 5 and the red wire will be soldered to a switch that I have yet to drill a hole for. The swit
ch will be a toggle switch that mounts in the lid. Pictures of the switch are to follow.
Notice that the LED is deep in goo.
The velo board and circuit fit into the project box. all of the wires fit into the project box to. These ar
e wires going to LED, switches, batteries.

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Step 12: Velcro Circuit Board to Project Box

Here is the switch. the bottom side of the switch under the lid where the hot wire from the battery is
attached and the wire that goes to pin 8 and pin 4 is attached. The switch closes that circuit conne
cting battery to pin 8. See the battery harness waiting to recieve a battery.
Now I get creative again. A more proffesional approach might work better than using velcro to hold t
he circuit board in place inside the project box. I suppose that I could have screwed it into position.
I used velcro and it is working for me. You might want to screw it to the project box.
Also you will see a pic of me using black tape to cover a wire splice. This is the ground from the bat
tery connecting to a wire that is connected to pin 8. The black tape protects from any shorts happe
ning at that point.
Had to bend the leads of the LED to let the circuit board fit in. Also bend the leads coming from the
pennies. Notice that the switch is near the end to allow room for the circuit board. It was tough to fit
it all in, but it all got inside.
I simply drilled a hole for the switch and set the switch in with the lock nuts that came with the switc
h and then soldered the wires to the switch. Bend the capacitor over to fit everything inside the proj
ect box.
Now that the silicone is dry, the LED and the pennies are sticking well.

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Step 13:

Here the battery is set in the harness. velcro is put on the lid next to the switch and velcro is put on
the battery. The velcros are connected and the velcro holds the battery to the lid.'
wires are shown going from circuit board to switch, battery, and LED.

The switch is set into the project box just next to the battery.

Here you can see the completed zapper and the switch, battery, and LED on the outside of the proj
ect box.
Screw the lid onto the project box.
I made this zapper at techshop in SF.

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Step 14: Eperiment With the Device on Myself

This o scope shows the square wave 8 volt 14.5 Hertz frequency output from the penny electrode
s. These pennies will be put on my skin.

Now, I will see if this device can help with the abscessed tooth. Will it work? Will it reduce swellin
g? Do you think it will? I will report back with the results of the experiment.

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