PA S T R Y BAKING C H O C O LAT E BREAD FROZEN

PASTRY ARTS ISSUE NO. 21 fall 2023

MANGAMO
B Y T O N I R O D R I G U E Z

The Future of Pastry • Sourdough Master Recipe • The Great Sprinkle Explosion
Chocolate Snacking • Engaging Showstopping Sweets • Chocolate Solidif ication
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Contents 94
Features

18 110
18
Jaynelle St.Pierre
One Slice at a Time

94
Toni Rodriguez
Vegan Pastry Pioneer

110
Philip Khoury
Crafting a New Way to Bake

Pastry Arts 3
— Fo r e v e r y s e a s o n —
Contents
Trends
12
Flambé and Brûlée:
124
The Great Sprinkle
12 124
Engaging Diners with Explosion
Showstopping Sweets

102
Unveiling
the EasyPaint
Stencil

50
34
Columns
70
30 78
86
Chocolate Science: Chocolate Talk:
Chocolate Solidification Chocolate Snacking

34 86
Pastry Virtuosity: The Expert Tips: Five Tips
Future of Pastry is Five Experts
Popping Up
106
50
78
Cottage Life:
Flavor Inspiration: Expanding Your
Combos and Technical
Tips
Cottage Bakery
Product Line
General
118
60 118
Vanilla 101:
Flecks of Flavor
Sourdough Secrets:
Master Recipe
24
Seeking Creative Inspiration
128
Through Sensory Analysis
70
New & Notable: Latest 128
Products, Equipment
and Books 60 Teacher Feature:
Melissa Walnock

Pastry Arts 5
Contents
136
Recipes 148
136
Hazelnut, Saffron &
Chocolate Entremet
by Ruchit Harneja

142
Chocolate, Cinnamon,
166
Caramel and Mandarin
by Anthony Hart Fluff Bake Bar’s 142 154
Veruca Salt Cake
148 by Rebecca Masson
Fennel Mousse with
Fermented Apple 170
by Tara Lewis The Fall 2023
by Mary George
154
Chocolate Tart Mi- 176
Amère 58%, Caramel Flowers From Our
Puff, Milk Chocolate
Lactée Caramel
Garden, a Touch
of Citrus Fruit 158
by Cedric Barbaret by Sebastien Barriere

158 180
Bebinca Apple Crumble Pie
by Ruchit Harneja by Karla Marro

Places
186
The Dolly Llama
196
Bisous Bisous
186 206
Pâtisserie
190 200
Pure Boutique
Sweet Dee’s Bakeshop

206
180 Par Julien Herman 196
Pastry Arts 7
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 PASTRY ARTS Advisory Board
Pastry Arts Magazine En-Ming Hsu
151 N. Maitland Ave #947511
Maitland, FL 32751 En-Ming Hsu is a World Pastry Champion and
Email: info@pastryartsmag.com Chef Instructor at The French Pastry School. Hsu
Website: pastryartsmag.com has been acknowledged as a “Rising Star Chef,”
“Pastry Chef of the Year in America,” in addition to
EDITORIAL receiving a “Lifetime Achievement Award,” “Best
Editor-in-Chief Pastry Chef in Chicago,” and “One of the Top 10
Shawn Wenner Pastry Chefs in America” by Pastry Art & Design and
Chocolatier magazines.
Managing Editor
Tish Boyle
Staff Writers Jansen Chan
Meryle Evans Jansen Chan is the former Director of Pastry
AnnMarie Mattila Operations at the International Culinary Center
Contributors (ICC), and founded Pastry Plus at ICC. He’s been
Michael Laiskonis, Genevieve Sawyer, Dennis Teets, featured in high-profile publications such as Food
Maddison Jaggars, Jimmy MacMillan, Robert Wemischner, & Wine magazine, Art Culinaire, and Baking and
Kriss Harvey, Deanna Martinez-Bey, Elaine Boddy Pastry: North America.
Cover
Mangamo Kimberly Brock Brown
By Toni Rodriguez Kimberly Brock Brown is a Certified Executive
Cover Photography Pastry Chef, Certified Culinary Administrator,
Courtesy of Toni Rodriguez and was the first African-American female chef
inducted into the American Academy of Chefs.
CREATIVE She was a Founding Member of the ACF-National
Graphic Designer Pastry and Baking Guild, a Dale Carnegie graduate,
Rusdi Saleh and has medaled in several chef competitions.
BUSINESS
Melissa Coppel
President
Shawn Wenner Melissa Coppel attended The French Pastry School
and worked at Joel Robuchon at the Mansion, a
Publisher three-star Michelin restaurant, and ran the pastry
Jeff Dryfoos
kitchen at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Las Vegas.
She was named one of the “Top 10 Chocolatiers
ADVERTISING
in North America” by Dessert Professional Magazine
For advertising availability & rates, contact Jeff Dryfoos at and currently owns and operates The Melissa
SALES@PASTRYARTSMAG.COM Coppel Chocolate and Pastry School in Las Vegas.

The opinions of columnists and contributors are their own.

Publication of their writing does not imply endorsement Miro Uskokovic
by Pastry Arts Magazine and/or Rennew Media, LLC. Miro Uskokovic is a graduate of the Culinary
Sources are considered reliable and information is verified Institute of America and is the Pastry Chef at
as much as possible, however, inaccuracies may occur and Gramercy Tavern. Chef Miro’s contemporary
readers should use the information at their own risk. Links
embedded within the publication may be affiliate links, American desserts are created out of a collection
which means Pastry Arts Magazine will earn a commission of personal memories and experiences, as well as
at no additional cost to our readers. No part of this international influence.
magazine may be reproduced in any fashion without the
expressed consent of Rennew Media, LLC. For advertising
information, letters to the editor, or submission inquiries, Ron Ben-Israel
please email: contact@pastryartsmag.com. Ron Ben-Israel is the owner of Ron Ben-Israel
Cakes. He’s been featured in countless books, TV
shows, films and publications, and was the host
Pastry Arts Magazine
Published by Rennew Media, LLC and judge for three seasons on the Food Network’s
© Copyright 2023, Rennew Media, LLC Sweet Genius, as well as a judge for three seasons
All Rights Reserved on Cake Wars.

Pastry Arts 9
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EDITOR’S NOTE
Hello and welcome to another delightful issue of Pastry Arts Magazine!

First and foremost, I’d like to highlight a change in our editorial team. Tish Boyle, our
brilliant Managing Editor since the inception of the magazine in 2018, will be transitioning
from her current role. While she’ll no longer be at the helm of the magazine, Tish remains
a vital part of our team as the host of our podcast and in her continued work on recipe
editing. Throughout the years, her contributions have been immeasurable, from her
editorial expertise to her insightful perspectives on the pastry and baking industry.
Her decision to explore new, industry-related projects allows her to further share her
extensive knowledge and love for the art of pastry. And while we’ll undoubtedly miss her
regular editorial touch, we’re excited for the new opportunities that await her and look
forward to her continued contributions in her other roles with us.
That said, every ending is a new beginning. I’m thrilled to welcome Brian Cazeneuve
as our new Managing Editor. Brian, an accomplished writer and a familiar name to our
readers, brings a fresh perspective and an infectious enthusiasm for the pastry and
baking world. His impressive portfolio, including his collaboration with Michael Phelps
on his autobiography, speaks to his storytelling prowess. I’m confident that Brian will
continue the legacy of delivering the top-tier content you’ve come to expect.
This issue is filled with a fascinating array of topics. From exploring the captivating
trends of Flambé and Brûlée, to a deep dive into the world of Chocolate Solidification,
to our cover story profile on the innovative Toni Rodriguez, every page is designed to
inspire, educate, and celebrate the world of pastry and baking.
Lastly, as always, thank you for your continued support and for making Pastry Arts
Magazine an integral part of your professional journey.

Warm regards,

Shawn Wenner
Editor-in-Chief

Pastry Arts 11
Trends

Sam Mason’s Baked Alaska is filled with a trio of sorbets.

Flambé and Brûlée

Engaging Diners with
Showstopping Sweets
By Meryle Evans

12 Pastry Arts
 “I
At The Press Club Grill, where the menu
pays homage to bygone Mad Men era favorites
t’s kind of like reimagined for today’s diners, Mason’s playful
desserts riff on classics like Bananas Foster and
this cool theater, S’mores. An acclaimed pastry wizard, Mason’s
exposing the diverse career ranges from revered kitchen
colleague of avant garde chef Wylie Dufresne
ice cream,” says at the legendary WD50 in lower Manhattan,
Sam Mason, to restauranteur at Taylor, and founder of the
maverick OddFellows Ice Cream Co.
Executive Pastry Chef at
For Cherries Jubilee, Mason places two scoops
Manhattan’s new Press Club of miso vanilla ice cream on a granola-like base
of toasted almonds, dried sour cherries, butter
Grill, explaining his creative and chocolate. He encloses the ice cream in a
interpretation of Cherries dark chocolate dome sprayed a deep cherry red
before molding. A whimsical chocolate cherry
Jubilee. The restaurant is one stem sits on top. Tableside, a waiter pours rum
of a bevy of recently opened over the dome, and sets it ablaze. When it melts
the waiter spoons a sauce made of dark red
establishments offering cherries poached in cherry juice, sugar, vanilla,
experiential eating, a trend and orange zest over the ice cream and serves it,
accompanied by an almond financier. According
predicted by several culinary to Mason, “It’ll stay on the menu all year, as the
pundits for this year. guests enjoy it, and we sell a lot.”

Sam Mason’s rendition of

the classic Cherries Jubilee.
Last December, New York Times reporter Kim
Severson wrote “people will seek out restaurants
that offer interaction, excitement, and a bit of
a show. Look for more dining room trolleys,
elaborate ice structures, flaming desserts like
Baked Alaska.” Bloomberg News took a similar
tack, focusing on trolley service and referencing
Manhattan standouts like the Italian meringue-
encased spumoni set ablaze at Andrew
Carmellini’s Carne Mare, Ferdi’s gelato made
on the spot with liquid nitrogen, and Crêpes
Mademoiselle at Angie Mar’s Les Trois Chevaux.
Mars demonstrated the dessert in July on Good
Morning America: “A celebration of citrus,” she
declared, describing the crêpes prepared with
candied kumquats, orange blossom water,
orange and lemon juice, and flambéed with
Grand Marnier.

Pastry Arts 13
 More traditional versions of Cherries Jubilee Tilaka
have also been cropping up this year, in Claire Kalb’s
Saffitz’s cookbook, What’s For Dessert S’mores
(Clarkson Potter, 2022), and in New York Times Cocoa
columnist Melissa Clark’s paean to flambé, Taco.
both similar to the original recipe named by
the great French chef Auguste Escoffier to
honor the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria
in 1897.
Clark also sings the praises of another flaming
stalwart, Bananas Foster, the New Orleans
favorite from the Brennan clan of restaurateurs,
named for a family friend. At mid-Manhattan’s
Monterey, an American bistro that opened last he strains the
fall, Clark describes a pan “set ablaze, orange cream and makes
flames surging and swaying before fizzling a regular brûlée with
out, leaving behind caramelized, rum-soaked brown sugar and egg yolks
bananas, and causing the neighboring tables to that is cooked, torched and topped with a ‘scarf’.
adjust their dessert orders.” The scarf is actually a really thin banana paper,
At The Press Club Grill, Mason transforms the a paste composed of banana purée, flour, salt,
dish into a fanciful hybrid Banana Brûlée. For sugar and butter, that is spread on a Silpat and
the brûlée, he notes, “I steep mashed bananas dried in the oven. Cut into strips, Mason adds
in cream, and let it sit for about an hour.” Then “it becomes malleable, and you make it into a
kind of whimsical organic thing that crisps up
in about 30 seconds, and you place it on the
brûlée. It’s pretty fragile, so when the waiter
walks up with the brûlée, he also has a pot with
S’mores from caramelized bananas sautéed in rum, so he just
The Press Club Grill. takes a spoonful of the bananas and kind of
smashes that beautiful piece of paper.”
Crème brûlée, dating back to the Middle
Ages, has become a modern classic,
popularized in the 1980’s by Sirio
Maccioni at Le Cirque, and ever evolving
with infinite iterations. At Nobu,
Las Vegas, it’s coffee with whisky
foam; at Koloman, the French-
Viennese accented restaurant in
NoMad, a Duck Egg Crème Brûlée
with caramelized pineapple and
mint. In the Chocolate Lounge
at French Broad’s emporium in
Ashville, North Carolina, a creamy
custard made with their bean-to-
bar dark chocolate is brûléed with
a crunchy caramelized topping.

14 Pastry Arts
 Torched and toasted Baked Alaska
has also been dessert royalty for over
150 years, named for the acquisition of
Alaska by the United States from Russia in
1867. Recently at The Grill in Manhattan,
the flavors were blackberry, layered with
milk sherbet and corn caramel. Brooklyn’s
Gage and Tollner pairs chocolate cookie
crunch with fresh mint, dark chocolate
and Amarena cherry ice cream. Mason’s
preference is a trio of sorbets, observing
that “it’s also a lactose-friendly situation,
because there are a lot of dairy-free
people these days.” His combinations have
included lemon, blueberry and buttermilk;
peach, apricot and plum; and tropical
fruits. Each is embellished with a ring of
fresh fruits.

The Grill’s S’mores from

Baked Alaska. The Press Club Grill.

The blowtorch is also getting a workout with

myriad styles of S’mores, a beloved camping
treat since the 1920’s that has been readily
adopted by pastry chefs. Barry Callebaut chefs
offer several suggestions: Fruity Ruby with black
currant jam and ruby chocolate, caramelized
banana using Van Leer Henna Milk Chocolate
41%, and lemon curd with caramelized white
chocolate.
Pastry chef Andres Lara developed two
S’mores cookies for Melissa Coppel’s Chocolate
and Confectionary School, the original with
homemade graham cookies, creamy bitter
chocolate ganache center and toasted vanilla
bean marshmallow; S’mores 2.0, replacing the
graham with a chewy double chocolate dough
containing small pieces of caramel.

Pastry Arts 15
 Banana Brûlée from The Press Club Grill.

At Agnes, a Michelin Guide restaurant in

Pasadena, California, Executive Chef Thomas
Tilaka Kalb’s S’mores Cocoa Taco, is one of
the restaurant’s signature sweets: “We make
graham cracker pizelle and roll the outer edges
in chocolate and crushed peanuts. We then
fill each shell with dark chocolate ganache,
pipe with marshmallow meringue on top, and
torch it for the full S’mores effect,” Kalb says,
adding, “The dish is a nod to my three favorite
summer chocolate desserts: the S’mores, the
famous Choco-Taco, and a childhood snack
that consisted of an ice cream cone, chocolate
chips, marshmallow, and a microwave.”
Mason’s S’mores feature made-in-house
Calamansi marshmallows that give off the
citrus aroma of the Asian fruit when burned.
The marshmallows rest on a round graham
cracker along with chocolate cremeux in a
cube mold, cacao nib tuiles, and a quenelle of
chocolate sorbet. Blasted with a blowtorch or
set ablaze tableside, culinary keepers of the
flame are offering a new take on a venerable
tradition, delighting guests with more than “a
bit of a show.”

16 Pastry Arts
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Profile

Jaynelle
St. Pierre
This savvy entrepreneur turned her passion for pies
into a successful business, one slice at a time
By Genevieve Sawyer

18 Pastry Arts
“I
would get somewhere, covered in flour and looking crazy
because I was working so hard, and then put on the dress
and be the business woman,” reflected Jaynelle St. Jean,
owner of Pietisserie, a wildly successful pie bakery based
in Berkeley, CA. “If you didn’t work in food, you wouldn’t know how
hard I was working.” Her loyal customers, we suspect, know all about
the hard work that goes into making Jaynelle’s unique pies. With their
unusual flavors (think beet, grapefruit and chocolate pumpkin) and
striking looks, it’s no wonder that these pies have garnered coverage in
People Magazine and The New York Times, as well as a following in
Mexico and a customer base that ensures robust attendance at its
eagerly anticipated holiday pop-ups. Jaynelle’s success didn’t come
overnight; when she was still doing all the baking herself, she often
had to be prepared to change roles and transform from slightly harried
baker to composed businesswoman. It was early on when the back
breaking nature of the labor and the challenge of being a one-woman-
show became clear to her. “It’s such hard work. I remember the day
when I realized – maybe three or four months in – ‘I haven’t sat down
in 15 hours!’.”

Pastry Arts 19
 Jaynelle’s path to professional baking success her interest in food deepened and became
didn’t begin in the way one might expect; something of an anchor. “It was actually
she rarely baked as a child, had no interest in quite difficult to be there. I found food to be
becoming a pastry artist when she was growing grounding, because it was real. In a world that
up, and never went to culinary school or did an has a lot of superficiality, food was always true
apprenticeship. Before Pietisserie, she worked and beautiful at the same time. What gave me
in event planning and public relations in New peace was going to the Union Square Farmers’
York City. Born and raised in San Francisco, Market on my lunch break. I would take
she initially found the fast pace of New York life conference calls at the kitchen in my office
rewarding. “A lot of my social environment was and make food from scratch in the toaster
very much design, culture and media – all of the oven. I had vases of fresh produce on my
cool stuff, all of the cool people – experimental, desk. I started to volunteer at green markets,
creative people.” When she moved to Hawaii doing cooking demos and teaching kids how
with a boyfriend, Jaynelle saw her life in New to cook from scratch.” Having determined
York from a different vantage point. “I slept that New York City was no longer for her, she
when I was tired, I woke up when I was rested, returned to California, and decided to explore
I made really good food. I got lots of sunshine. selling pies to the public. She baked pie in her
And then I started really questioning if the fast- mother’s kitchen and gave it away to people
paced lifestyle was for me – trying to come up, gathered outside, handing slices through the
trying to make it, very transactional. I just felt kitchen window. “I decided to just make the
like maybe that wasn’t what was right for me. three pies I knew how to make at the time,
Around that time, I became seriously interested and give slices away as an ode to how I wanted
in food.” to feel in my life, which is not rushed. I was
Still, she had not yet formed any concrete doing this because that’s how I wanted to feel;
plans for a food business. But when she that’s where the business came from. It was
left Hawaii to return to New York for an a gathering, and an offering.” A friend who
opportunity to work on a travel television attended the event suggested that she open a
show, the opportunity didn’t pan out, and pie business, and Pietisserie was born.

20 Pastry Arts
 combining those with other things that I loved.
It was just this blossoming of creativity for me,
and that’s what I became known for. I became
I found food to be known for this pie window, and for delicious
grounding, because pies that were really pretty, and for flavor
combinations that people hadn’t had before.”
it was real. In a world In 2014, after searching for some time, St.
Jean found a brick-and-mortar location for
that has a lot of Pietisserie in Oakland, and opened the store
superficiality, food at the beginning of the Christmas season. The
neighborhood was a bit rough, with homeless
was always true people frequenting the surrounding streets,
but business was good. “A slice of pie is five
and beautiful at the dollars. Most people can enjoy a slice of pie, as
in most cities, there are people who are down-
same time. and-out and there are people who are not.” The
somewhat gritty location didn’t deter customers
coming from other neighborhoods. “People
In addition to being a powerful statement, came from afar; you know, pulled up in their
Jaynelle’s pie giveaway made good business SUVs and pulled out their three-wheeled
sense. In effect, it was a market test, a strollers to come in and get pie.” Many
relatively inexpensive way to gauge interest restaurants and bakeries were devastated by
in a new product. Although the test was the onset of COVID, but Pietisserie
extremely successful, she continued escaped more or less unscathed.
to experiment and improve the When the pandemic began
pies. “One pie after the next, in March 2020, the store’s
one makes observations lease was up, so Jaynelle
and improves. It was good
simply decided not to
enough to make it worth
renew and closed the
getting better.” Perhaps
store. But the bakery
relying on her New York
continued through her
City design awareness, she
built a mobile version of her quickly developed Bay
mother’s kitchen window Area delivery service,
and brought it with her to and as Jaynelle had begun
farmers’ and produce markets, to offer pies in select
where she sold her pies, handing grocery stores just before the
them through the window just as pandemic hit, the pandemic was
she did when she gave away pies from a bit of a boon for Pietisserie. “That
her mother’s kitchen. “So for two years, I had was very fortunate, because if people were
this little window – it was adorable. It was made leaving their houses, it was to get food. We
from PVC pipe, so I could break it down and expanded my grocery account through COVID,
stick it in my car. I could show up anywhere. and we started doing direct delivery to people’s
It had salmon shutters and a black and white porches. We just had people going all over the
awning. I had a lot of fun going to markets in my area to people’s homes,” she said. “The roads
neighborhood, looking at different produce, and were empty, so you could get places really fast.”

Pastry Arts 21
 COVID also gave Jaynelle time to reassess her
business model. “With the store being closed,
I got this chance to lean into the idea that I
always had that we should be a seasonal store,
because we would be empty in January and
February, and in November we would be open
literally for 24 hours at Thanksgiving.” Jaynelle
also used the respite provided by COVID to
revisit the creative structure of Pietisserie. “It
was during COVID that I really built the brand
with these five visual categories of pie.” The
five categories are woven, crumble, cocoa crust,
pastel, and open pies. “I kind of took some of
the recipes I had made and organized them
into the way I think about them,” she explained.
“That’s what we were able to bring to life. It’s
just serving people when they really want pies,
instead of having the store open year-round and
pulling every marketing trick out of the box to
try and get them to buy something from you all
year. It’s easy to be awesome for seven weeks Jaynelle’s ability to gauge and respond to
when everyone is excited about what you have, what her customers want isn’t limited to the
but when it’s January, and everybody is on a diet United States. She has an active collaboration
and a budget, that contradicts pie.” with Niddo, a small Mexican bakery and café
chain operated by a mother and son team,
Eduardo and Karen Plaschinski, in Mexico City.
It’s easy to be The cafes are popular enough that patrons
can’t expect to get a seat for breakfast unless
awesome for seven they make a reservation. Her collaboration
has been profitable, perhaps because she
weeks when everyone was willing to be flexible and respond to local
expectations. “There were some pies that we
is excited about what didn’t do, because Eduardo thought they were
too, essentially, Mexican. Mexicans eat a lot of
you have, but when sweet potatoes, and he told me, ‘I don’t wanna
it’s January, and do sweet potato pie.’ Or lime custard, because
that’s something people are very familiar with
everybody is on a diet in traditional desserts.” In fact, pie itself is often
new to Mexicans – so flavors that might seem
and a budget, that common to Mexicans can seem odd when used
as the star ingredient in a pie. “We’ve done
contradicts pie. peach, we’ve done more traditional fruit pies
with lattice tops, we did pecan. Having people
meet all these pies at once is just part of this
pie experience – without the same cultural
reference for it – just kind of new and different
to people who may have never had pie before.”

22 Pastry Arts
 Now living on a small farm that she owns in
rural Northern California, these days Jaynelle
has plenty of time to garden and raise pigs.
Pietisserie is growing and running smoothly, so
although she may miss the days of working 15
hours at a time on her feet, they are long gone.
She advises that anyone seeking to enter the
Start small. business not rush the process, beginning slowly
and building from there. “Start small. And if you
And if you do love it, do love it, then do it. But you’re gonna have to
love it, because it’s gonna be hard.”
then do it. But you’re
gonna have to love
Genevieve Sawyer is a freelance food writer
it, because it’s gonna who graduated from the Culinary Institute of
American in 2009. She is the co-author of
be hard. The Rookwood Inn’s Guide to Devouring the
Berkshires – One Cultural Bite at a Time,
and is also an expert in the care of horses
and the maintenance of horse farms.

Pastry Arts 23
Sensory Analysis

Seeking Creative
Inspiration Through
Sensory Analysis
By Michael Laiskonis
Culinary Director, Boiron Americas

Sponsored by
Les vergers Boiron
24 Pastry Arts
A s a pastry chef,
I am constantly
considering how
I approach flavor
in desserts and
confections. Of
course, our goal first and foremost
is to seek out ingredients of the
highest quality and expression of
flavor, whether it be the true-to-
origin characteristics and roast
profile of cacao that produces
chocolate, the fresh complexity
of dairy products, or the peak- One tool that I have found increasingly
beneficial in my own process involves more
season flavor, aroma and color of
thoughtful sensory analysis of the products that
the global fruit basket. The tools at I use on a daily basis, as well as paying closer
our disposal for weaving together attention to the provenance of an ingredient —
flavors in both conventional and the story of where it comes from and how it is
novel ways are diverse. Chefs can produced. Such deeper understanding can be
simply draw from classic pairings useful in unlocking inspiration and harnessing
or seek new ways to achieve new avenues of creativity. While taste is
ultimately subjective, we can train ourselves
surprising results. We can explore
to appreciate ingredients in a more systematic
the wealth of traditions tied to way, and to express their characteristics using
other cultures, adopt a ‘what grows a common language. In fact, our industry
together, goes together’ approach, already provides many examples, such as the
or dive into flavor chemistry standardized analysis of products like wine,
to arrive at combinations of coffee, and chocolate. What’s exciting to me is
ingredients that share common when we apply that same approach to fruit.
volatile compounds. The flavors Drawing from over 80 years of expertise
we seek to highlight then inform in fruit, Les vergers Boiron has created an
accessible tool for chefs known as Fruitology®.
the techniques we employ, and
Initially developed as a way for the company
whether supporting elements will to talk about fruit internally – from sourcing to
complement or contrast individual production to quality control – this discipline
characteristics to create an effect has been expanded to provide culinary
that is greater than merely the sum professionals the ability to understand the
of their parts. different sensory characteristics of a fruit
purée (appearance, taste, and texture) in order
to perfect their recipes.

Pastry Arts 25
 Identifying the characteristics
of a fruit purée

Like any edible product, fruit has its own

specific characteristics, which play an essential
role when tasting the fruit and the products
made from it. Fruitology® is designed to meet
the specific needs of identifying product
characteristics and the subtleties of evaluating
them. Combined with the backstory of origin
and selected variety of the fruit, it’s like having
a detailed passport for each purée.

Comparing several purées with the

same flavor

Fruitology® is a guide for tasting and evaluating

a fruit purée. It can also be used to compare
different purées of the same flavor and define
their specific characteristics. Les vergers Boiron
used its expertise to develop a new discipline
with a language based on the methods of
sensory analysis. The tools are designed for
chefs – and all operators in the fruit sector –
particularly those who work with fruit purées.
Fruitology® is based on sensory analysis, a
scientific discipline that uses human senses
as a measurement. We can precisely measure Developing creativity
quality aspects in Brix or pH, but no instrument
can replace the individual’s ultimate experience Understanding the characteristics of fruit
of, say, the sugar and acid balance of perfectly and its transformation into purée opens the
ripe fruit. Product characteristics are thus door to creativity. Thoughtful analysis of
evaluated with all the five senses (sight, touch, complex aromatic notes can inspire a better
sound, smell, and taste). Within the sensory blend of flavors. At a time when our guests
labs at Les vergers Boiron, a panel of experts and customers have increasing demands and
is trained to describe fruit purées according to seek new experiences, pastry professionals
previously defined descriptors, to which they can use this knowledge to offer desserts and
assign an intensity score. The data obtained is confections that exceed their expectations.
then used to create flavor profiles of each fruit
and to assist chefs on three levels: identifying
a fruit’s primary characteristics, crafting a For more information on Fruitology®, visit:
language for comparing fruits of similar type, https://offers.my-vb.com/fr/livre-blanc-de-la-
and fueling creativity. fruitologie-integral

26 Pastry Arts
 Mango-Hibiscus
‘Rouleau’
A simple example of how I have used this tool 3. Add the remaining 195 g sugar and the
toward a creative end is reflected in a refined glucose in multiple additions; continue to
interpretation of a fruit ‘roll-up’ incorporating cook to a final temperature of 223°F (106°C).
mango purée. The flavor wheel on the next Remove from heat and stir in the citric acid.
page highlights those core elements of the 4. Immediately pour into a 4.72ʺ (12 cm)
purée – a blend of the Alphonso and Kesar square frame and allow to cool and set at
varieties – that express the optimum mango room temperature.
profile. Transforming the mango into a classic
pâte de fruit concentrates the jammy sweetness
and rich aromatics, and I then sought to Hibiscus Infusion
complement the mango with a touch of floral
acidity from hibiscus, appearing in the form of • 120 g water
marshmallow. Tying these two components
together is the spicy anise note of Thai basil, to • 10 g hibiscus flower, dried
draw out the green, piney aspect provided in
part by the unique Kesar mango. 1. Heat the water to a simmer and pour over
the hibiscus. Allow to infuse 1 hour and
strain.
Yield: approximately 36 petit four-style
confections

Mango Pâte de Fruit

• 170 g Boiron Mango purée
• 80 g Boiron Apricot purée
• 220 g granulated sugar, divided
• 6 g yellow pectin
• 35 g glucose syrup
• 5 g citric acid

1. Place the purées into a saucepan and heat to

104°F (40°C).
2. Combine 25 g of the sugar and the pectin
and whisk into the purée. Bring to a boil
over medium heat, stirring continually.

Pastry Arts 27
 The flavor wheel that is highlighting
core elements of the purée – a blend of
the Alphonso and Kesar varieties – that
express the optimum mango profile.

3. Remove from the heat and pour the cooked

syrup over the gelatin mixture and whip
on high speed for 7-8 minutes, or until the
mixture is light and fluffy and has cooled to
approximately 75°F (24°C).
Hibiscus Marshmallow 4. Transfer the mixture into an acetate sheet
lightly coated with pan spray and spread the
• 4.5 g gelatin powder (225-bloom) marshmallow to a thin layer. Allow to set for
several hours.
• 25 g water, cold
• 50 g glucose syrup, divided
• 60 g Hibiscus Infusion, divided Assembly
• 70 g granulated sugar
• Thai basil leaves
1. In a stand mixer bowl, hydrate the gelatin in
the water. Add 25 g of the glucose syrup and 1. Remove the mango pâte de fruit from the
10 g of the Hibiscus Infusion and reserve. frame and slice into 1-2 mm pieces. Reserve.
2. Combine the remaining 50 g of the Hibiscus 2. Cut the Hibiscus Marshmallow into
Infusion with the sugar and the remaining 25 rectangles measuring 4.72ʺ (12 cm) long by
g of glucose syrup in a saucepan and bring to 0.4ʺ (1 cm) wide. Place the marshmallow
a boil over medium heat. Continue to cook onto the Mango Pâte de Fruit and loosely
to a final temperature of 230°F (110°C). roll. Garnish with tiny Thai basil leaves.

28 Pastry Arts
República del Cacao was born with a purpose, to create the most authentic Latin American chocolate
hand-in-hand with local communities, developing sustainable fine cacao production at its source.

The company has two business units: retail activity with a wide range of chocolate products like presents, ice creams, desserts
and chocolate bars, six Chocolate-Boutiques in Ecuador and Duty-Free presence in Ecuador, Peru, Colombia and The
Dominican Republic. On the other hand, Chocolate for professional use with a portfolio of 20 products, divided into profiles:
single origin and blends; with presence in more than 20 countries around the world.

Our chocolate is produced locally using Latin American ingredients in state-of-the-art facilities with passion and excellence.
We combine these amazing raw materials with the most advanced global knowledge and techniques. The effort and education
investment we put in the hands of our team is reflected in the creations that chefs and chocolate lovers share daily. We
promote a cuisine of origin and excellence, with national and international academic alliances focused on the development of
a gastronomic future, through training and specialization of new talents.

For República del Cacao the commitment to the protection of fine cacao and our farmer allies goes beyond paying fair prices,
but extends to technical support and the development of responsible farming practices, promoting the protection of native
fine cacao varieties. The company has accomplished the highest standards of social and environmental development,
transparency and corporate responsibility, while searching to balance purpose and profit, receiving the B Corp certification,
as a recognition of our efforts to develop an inclusive, equitable, and sustainable economic model for all.

social • environmental • economical

#joinlarepublicadelcacao

RepublicaDelCacao @RepDelCacao @republicadelcacao

www.republicadelcacao.com
Chocolate Science

Chocolate
Solidification
By Dennis Teets

30 Pastry Arts
T
he final step in any
chocolate project
is the hardening of
the chocolate. While
conceptually it is just
a matter of letting the liquid fat
system solidify, because cocoa Sensible and latent heat are the two
butter is a polymorphic fat system, forms of heat that must be removed
during the cooling process in order to
it must be cooled in such a way as drop the chocolate being solidified to a
to prevent the Form V (beta crystals) temperature where lower form crystals
in the fat system from reverting will transform into Form V, both during
back to lower crystalline forms. That the cooling process and the over-
the-shelf-life of the item. It is
means both the removal of the thought that items leaving
sensible heat put into the a cooling tunnel will
chocolate to cause it to be at approximately
40% Form V
liquify and of the latent
crystals. Sensible
heat of crystallization. heat is the heat
The key to this process that was added
is to get the chocolate to melt the
chocolate to
to the point where both liquify
Form V crystals will and remove
no longer melt. This all previously
ensures a sufficient formed beta
crystals. Latent
number of Form V heat is the heat
crystals will be present at given off during the
the end of the crystallization development of Form V
crystals. This heat needs to
process to cause the lower melt be removed as the chocolate solidifies.
forms of cocoa butter to transform Since this heat is developed throughout
into primarily Form V crystals over the chocolate as it is solidifying, it is very
time. This is important in that too important to keep the heat moving from
the center of the mass to the surface, so
few beta crystals will cause a non- it can be transferred to the air. Thus, the
molded item to scuff easily and melt cooling system must be able to maintain
quickly upon holding in one’s hand. the air temperature (heat sink) at a
constant, even while pulling sensible
In addition, molded chocolate items
and latent heat from the product, as
will not be released easily from the the product’s temperature equilibrates
mold. towards the temperature of the air of
the cooling system.

Pastry Arts 31
A Ideal solidification of a tempered chocolate
item requires two primary components. First
is a heat sink to absorb the heat being given
off by the chocolate due to the addition of
sensible heat and the creation of latent heat
in the crystallization process as the chocolate
transforms from a liquid to a solid. A heat
sink is simply a material that will absorb heat
from a higher temperature source. Based
on the second law of thermodynamics, this
heat sink must be cooler than the desired
end temperature as heat flows from a higher
temperature item to a lower temperature
B
environment. The desired temperature range
for this system is between 70°F and 50°F
(21.1-10°C), and preferably between 65°F and
55°F (18.3-12.7°C). Actual temperatures will
Figure 1: Improperly cooled chocolate be based on the humidity level of the sink air
and the chocolate formulation.
The second component is one or more
Figure 1 provides a visual view of the methods for pulling heat from the center of
solidification of a chocolate. The view is a the item to the surface to prevent entrapment
picture of a solidified molded chocolate item of heat in the center of the chocolate item.
broken into two pieces at the snap point. The Both convection and conductive heat transfer
piece was cooled in a refrigerator which was at systems can be used for this purpose. A
a temperature around 43°F (6°C). This process conductive system would be a cold plate
was based on a simple radiation cooling system used to transfer heat out of the chocolate
where the heat from the product was allowed in a mold or a cold pan lined with a sheet
to transfer to the air by simple temperature of parchment paper (the chocolate item is
equilibration. In view A, you see a well solidified placed on the parchment sheet for cooling).
chocolate as can be determined by the tight The most frequently used and easiest system
packing of the crystals and a uniform texture. is a convention system. The best example
Also note the nice gloss on the inside surface of this is cooled air blown over a mold or
of the bubble. This gloss is a sign of a well chocolate item to remove the heat from the
packed crystalline structure. In view B, you see area surrounding the item, and thus provide
a very loosely packed structure with a cottage a continuous gradient to transfer heat from
cheese texture. This texture occurred because a warmer product to the cooler heat sink air.
heat was entrapped in the chocolate during the The goal is to have air at the surface of the
cooling process. This caused Form V crystals to item constantly being refreshed with heat sink
revert to lower forms as they solidified. The temperature air. This has two purposes: First
physical cause of this packing is due to the is the prevention of warm air being entrapped
less tight packing of lower form crystals. The around the items being cooled. Second is the
likely cause for this was that there was no fan movement of air over the surface of the item
to pull heat evenly away from the center of the to provide a continuous temperature gradient
chocolate item, and thus to the surface, where that will allow for the transfer of heat according
it is transferred to the cabinet air. to the second law of thermodynamics.

32 Pastry Arts
 The simplest example of radiation cooling is
setting the item on a table in an air-conditioned
room at a temperature of 68°F (20°C). This
Eight Questions to
system can work well for items with a thin
coating of chocolate, such as deposited truffles Ask When Setting Up
where heat is easily transferred to the air a Cooling Process for
through radiation due to the large surface of Solidifying Tempered
the products. The system can be made more
Chocolate Items:
efficient by adding a fan to blow over the items
to force more interaction of the heat that needs
to be removed with the heat sink air. An even 1. Is there air flow over the
more effective system would be an area isolated cooling items to move heat
to maintain a specific temperature environment away from the articles?
by having a separate cooling source for just
that area (i.e., a room air conditioner). This 2. Is the temperature of the
helps maintain a constant temperature of the cooling area less than 70°F
air being blown over the cooling products, even (21.1°C)?
with the addition of latent heat.
3. Is the humidity of the
For more information on this topic, please cooling area 60% or lower
visit https://sweetanchors.podia.com/ to check (preferably 50% or less)?
out my new eBook on this topic.
4. Is the item’s chocolate
coating thin enough to
prevent latent heat from
being trapped in the
chocolate, or does an
additional heat transfer
method need to be set up
to pull heat away from the
item?
5. Is there room between
After 30 years of working in the confectionery the items to allow heat to
industry as a product developer, researcher, escape?
scientist, trainer, innovator, and consultant, 6. Are there any hot spots
Dennis decided to start a confectionery coaching within the cooling area?
website aimed at transferring the science
behind confectionery processes into practical 7. Is the cooling time
skills. With his deep knowledge of cocoa appropriate for the
butter crystallization, Dennis helps students to chocolate formula and
understand what is happening in the physical dimensions?
process and how to control it. He hopes that
8. Is the cooling sink
knowing the science will free the student to
temperature appropriate
explore the art and that more people will be able
for the chocolate formula?
to enjoy freshly tempered chocolate products. To
learn more about Dennis’ new adventure, please
visit https://sweetanchors.podia.com/.

Pastry Arts 33
Pastry Virtuosity

The Future of Pastry is

Popping Up By Jimmy MacMillan

Ube brownies from

Masiramon Chicago.

Photo by
@Foodiefrmthechi
34 Pastry Arts
 Maa Maa Dei’s Rainbow Teochew-Style Spiral
Mooncakes with chunky taro filling.

Vendor markets and pop-ups allow pastry

chefs to showcase their creativity and artisanal
skills in a more intimate and hands-on setting.
These chefs can experiment with flavors,
textures, and techniques, resulting in one-of-a-

P
kind pastries that cannot be found in traditional
bakeries. In Chicago, one can discover that What
astry chefs Margie Made, Maa Maa Dei, and Masiramon’s
unique creations are a testament to the exciting
at vendor innovation happening within this niche.
markets and
pop-ups are What Margie Made
quickly emerging as the “Pop-ups and vendor markets are essential in
future of pastry, and allowing small business owners like me to have a
voice and opportunity to showcase our products
for good reason. These and talents,” says Marguerite Singson, Pastry Chef
talented individuals and Owner of What Margie Made (@margie_the_
foodie on Instagram). “Since I don’t have a set
are redefining the menu, pop-ups are ideal for my business model. I
pastry industry in can test out different recipes and keep my menu
fresh. While it takes more time to plan and work
myriad ways, from out logistics, I enjoy the flexibility of pop-ups.”
their commitment to Like her pastries, Marguerite is passionate
using locally sourced about presenting a creative and unique
experience that will resonate with consumers.
ingredients to their She enjoys the collaboration and partnership that
innovative and comes with planning a pop-up. Often, she works
with the pop-up host to curate a special menu
personalized creations specific to the event with a cohesive theme. Chef
that connect with Marguerite will also incorporate their products
and cross-promote the businesses.
customers on a deeper Offerings from What Margie Made are
level. Below, we will rooted in modern classic desserts, with fresh
and exciting flavors and presentations such as
look at three pastry lemon madeleines with blueberry compote or
chefs who use pop-ups strawberry rhubarb tartlet with Tahitian vanilla
and white chocolate whipped ganache—her
to shape the future of delicious vegan matcha blueberry pistachio petit
pastry. gateau. One elaboration on a vendor pop-up was
her Mario Bros theme for Mar10 (Mario) Day pop-
up setup at Konbini x Kanpaiin Chicago.

Pastry Arts 35
 Masiramon Ube Crème Brûlée from
Chicago’s Ube Masiramon Chicago.
Crinkle Cookies.

Photo by @Foodiefrmthechi Photo Stella by Marie Fanega

Pastry chefs at vendor markets and pop- Noelle explains, “As a micro bakery, doing
ups have the advantage of direct customer pop-ups is my favorite part of the business. I
interaction. This face-to-face engagement can shop in different locations in the city and
enables them to receive immediate feedback the suburbs and connect with many people
and build relationships with their patrons. while sharing the Filipino culture, hospitality,
They can tailor their offerings to customer and flavors.”
preferences, ensuring that each pastry is a Noelle says this is one of the reasons she has
personalized experience. This level of customer yet to move into a traditional brick-and-mortar.
interaction fosters a sense of community and “I would, of course, still do pop-ups when I
loyalty that is rare in larger, more impersonal
have a storefront, but I know it wouldn’t be as
pastry shops.
frequent, and I’d miss the pop-up community
too much,” explains Noelle. “For now, I’ll
Masiramon continue to save up towards a storefront and
enjoy popping up wherever I can!”
One of the chefs creating savory items as well Farmers’ markets and pop-ups offer pastry
as desserts is Noelle Fajardo of Masiramon chefs a flexible platform to experiment and
Chicago (https://www.masiramonchicago.com/). adapt to changing trends and customer
Starting in 2021 with chocolate-dipped treats, demands. They can quickly pivot to create
Noelle has grown her menu to pay homage to pastries that align with seasonal celebrations,
her roots, her family and the Philippine culture. holidays, or local events. This adaptability
In addition to chocolate-dipped treats, she now ensures that their offerings remain fresh and
offers specialties such as ube brownies, ube relevant, catering to the ever-evolving tastes
crinkle cookies, and cassava cake. of their customer base.

36 Pastry Arts
Maa Maa Dei Chinese Cheddar
Bay Biscuits from
Maa Maa Dei.
“Every pop-up is unique because it is in a
different location with a different host,” said
Jaye Fong of Maa Maa Dei (@maa.maa.dei on
Instagram). “Each of our hosts has been so
generous, and the cross-pollination between
our respective audiences makes every pop-up
fun and exciting!”
What Jaye likes about the experience is that
vendor pop-ups have the flexibility to change
menus all the time, so she enjoys collaborating
with others, exploring traditional foods, and
creating new items for returning fans.
received such loving encouragement from
Maa Maa Dei’s baked goods lean on tradition
our customers!’ exclaims an appreciative Jaye.
but reveal a personal style, as if eating food made
“We’re envisioning a bakery in the morning and
by a close friend or loved one, as experienced
a Hong Kong-style cafe the rest of the day.”
when tasting the Chinese cheddar bay biscuit
or salted sakura shortbread cookies. Jaye’s Farmers’ markets and pop-ups provide a
rainbow Teochew-style spiral mooncakes with fertile ground for emerging pastry chefs to hone
chunky taro filling are genuinely otherworldly. their skills and gain exposure in the culinary
At present, you can only find these at vendor world. These settings often serve as a stepping
pop-ups, at least until Maa Maa Dei might find stone for chefs to launch businesses or secure
a permanent location. positions in renowned establishments. As such,
they are a vital part of the culinary ecosystem,
“I would love to have a small brick-and-
nurturing talent and fostering innovation.
mortar one day, especially because we have
By experiencing the work of pastry chefs
at vendor markets and pop-ups, one can
Strawberry Rhubarb Tartlet with Tahitian experience pastry’s future. These chefs’
vanilla Ivoire whipped ganache from What commitment to creativity, direct customer
Margie Made. engagement, and support for local economies
make them a driving force behind the evolution
of our beloved culinary art. As they continue
pushing pastry’s boundaries, we can look
forward to a future filled with even more
exciting, locally inspired, and personalized
sweet creations.

Jimmy MacMillan is a celebrated pastry

chef, food writer, and award-winning
videographer. Chef MacMillan is a pastry
consultant working under the Pastry
Virtuosity label. For more information,
visit www.PastryVirtuosity.com and
@jimmymacmillan

Pastry Arts 37
Business Bites

Promo Logic
In this edition of Business Bites, we asked dessert
professionals how they use special promotions
to bump up their bottom line.

38 Pastry Arts
Allison Sodha
Owner, Cup and Cone &
Better Boba, Portland, OR
cupandconepdx.com
thebetterboba.com

What type of dessert business do you

have?
Cup & Cone is an ice cream/boba shop that
lives by the mantra ‘Inspired globally, served
locally’. While running this business, it led to
the creation of Better Boba.

What’s one unique way you promote

your products?
Besides integrating and cross-promoting the
two brands, both businesses focus on high-
quality visuals and content. When you visit my
websites, you will notice how the content helps
tell the story visually.

Pastry Arts 39
Why is this effective for you?
As many consumers eat with their eyes,
it’s important for them to see the product
beforehand. Food marketing is unique in that
most times the product being photographed
isn’t the product you are served. While
incorporating a content-driven approach is
expensive, time consuming, and hard, it is so
effective because it can be used across multiple
platforms: web, email, social, etc.

For others wanting to incorporate a

similar type of promotional strategy,
what’s your advice?
High-quality content can’t be beat. Use search
data to incorporate what type of content you
are creating so that you can create with a
purpose. Plan in advance, and stick to the plan,
because it will be rocky to start, and slow to
make progress.

40 Pastry Arts
Jessica McManus
Owner, Baked Babe Cakes &
Bakes, San Diego, CA
bakedbabesandiego.com

What kind of business do you have?

I have a cottage food kitchen, which means I bake
out of my home. I have all the necessary licensing
and permits – the health inspector even visits my
home. I focus mainly on custom cakes for things like
weddings, birthday parties and larger events, but I
also sell retail cookies and do farmers’ markets.

What’s one unique way you promote your

products?
One unique way I’ve been selling my cookies is on
consignment at convenience stores and gas stations
around town. Seeing my labels and cookies helps
the customer visually see my brand around town.
My packaging includes a QR code to my website,
and I have had a lot of people call for a custom cake
because they have bought my cookies.

Pastry Arts 41
Why is this
effective for you?
I think this is effective
because it imprints onto
peoples’ brains seeing the
logo around town so much.
Once they try the cookie, they
usually fall in love and want to try
more products, and trust that I can make
not only something that tastes good, but also
looks good.

For others wanting to incorporate a

similar type of promotional strategy,
what’s your advice?
I think it’s important to make your display
and your packaging look as professional as
possible. I went through some re-branding and
made a new logo, and I have also changed my
stickers and packaging multiple times until I
found something I love that keeps cookies
fresh. I believe that helped a lot to look more
professional, and more like a brand that is
trying to compete in the market.

42 Pastry Arts
Maddie McNabb
Owner & Head Baker,
Maddie About Cake
maddieaboutcake.com

What type of dessert business do you

have?
Maddie About Cake is a pop-up bakery
specializing in French macarons.

What’s one unique way you promote

your products?
I grew my business to full-time in less than a
year using in-person markets.
 For others wanting to incorporate a
similar type of promotional strategy,
what’s your advice?
Just start! You don’t need a flashy display to
get going. Invest in a folding table, tablecloth,
credit card reader, signage, and some packaging
upfront, but that’s it (for an indoor event, at
least)! Have a way to stay connected with your
customers. The connections you make are
worthless if you can’t stay connected with your
Why is this effective for you? customers. It’s as simple as having a piece of
paper for customers to sign up for your email
In-person markets are a sales channel AND a newsletter. You can even offer a small discount
marketing channel. You can make sales while or other incentive for signing up! Don’t sit
spreading the word about your business – a and look at your phone – customers will not
true win-win! They are a great way to start approach a seller that looks disinterested.
your business and grow a customer base with Take a break from your phone and interact
minimal overhead. Building strong customer with shoppers. It’s much harder for a customer
relationships is easier by connecting with them to walk away if you’d said ‘hi’ and made eye
in person. contact with them.

44 Pastry Arts
 selection of desserts, cakes and savory items
that can be reserved on a first-come, first-served
basis. This menu appears on both Facebook and
Instagram between 9:50 a.m. and 10:00 a.m.
The post includes a range of available desserts
along with their prices, accompanied by clear
instructions on how to place an order. This
approach significantly boosts our revenue and
maintains high engagement across our social
media platforms.

Meredith
Rousseau
Owner, Artisan Bake Shop,
Rochester, MA
artisanbakeshop.com

What type of dessert business do you

have?
I own a pre-order custom cake and dessert
business in coastal Massachusetts.

What’s one unique way you promote

your products?
We employ a unique strategy to showcase
our products through a weekly event known
as ‘Flash Sale Fridays’. Here is how our flash
sale works: Every Friday morning, we post a

Pastry Arts 45
 Why is this effective for you?
The flash sale is highly effective at keeping
social media engagement high, organically.
Customers are interested in our flash sale posts
and will tag friends and frequently share the
reminder and the flash sale post. The flash sale
also allows our customers to try new desserts
that they may not otherwise be interested in
trying. For example, if we have a new item that
isn’t selling well, we will pair it with a best-seller
in our weekly Sweet Box. We’re also able to sell
test-bake items or try new designs. The flash
sale remains effective as we post a reminder at
a specific time on Thursdays when we know our
audience is active. Organically sustaining our
customers’ engagement with our social media
content has been one of the best outcomes. It
maintains their interest and reminds them of
the diversity in our menu offerings and allows
us to market test-bakes. Most importantly,
the flash sale is a potent revenue amplifier
and eliminates a great amount of waste. Our
weekly sales figures allow us to boost 8 to 17%
in total sales, and we have decreased waste by
15 to 27%.

For others wanting to incorporate a

similar type of promotional strategy,
what’s your advice?
Be consistent in your offerings and how you
post. Post catchy, frequent reminders during a
time of day when your customers are scrolling
on social media. This can seem like you’re
drowning your customers in information, but in
reality, it is necessary for success. Be consistent
in what you offer. Sell similar offerings each
week. This allows customers to get used to
your offerings and keep it in the back of their
mind. Post the sale on the same day of the
week and at the same time using consistent
hashtags. This allows your customers to get
into the routine.

46 Pastry Arts
Maya Busscher
Owner, Bountiful Bakery,
Fairfield, IA
bountifulbakery.cafe
What type of dessert business do you
have?
Our bakery specializes in organic baked
goods, featuring sourdough bagels and French
croissants handmade with love daily. We offer
our community the luxuries they expect in a
big city, with the price and convenience of a
small town. Our bakery offers an upscale dining
experience with world-class pastries. When
people visit us, you can tell they feel (and taste)
the difference.

What’s one unique way you promote

your products?
As proud owners of a small bakery nestled in the
heart of our town, we’ve discovered a distinctive
approach to promoting our products that goes
beyond mere marketing — it’s a way of life that
has proven remarkably effective. When we
are marketing our business, we are marketing
ourselves. For our small bakery, we’re not just
the face of the business, we’re members of our
community. This gives us a unique opportunity
to really connect and listen to the people we
serve. Our marketing “angle” is not so much
a tactic, but a way of living and serving our
community. We make a point to connect with
the people who enter our shop. Our social
media page couples well photographed pastries
with personal anecdotes that help us connect
and relate to our customers.

Pastry Arts 47
 For others wanting to incorporate a
similar type of promotional strategy,
what’s your advice?
Embrace authenticity by embedding yourself
in the fabric of the community. Adapt and
Why is this effective for you? innovate to meet the needs of your community,
and always tell your story, sharing not only
This approach humanizes our brand, creating your products, but your journey, your passion
a sense of kinship. When individuals walk and your interactions. In the end, our bakery’s
through our doors, they encounter a welcoming success story is rooted in the simple principle
space where they’re not just customers; they’re of putting people first. By weaving our business
friends and family. Even a brief interaction into the lives of our customers and nurturing a
becomes an opportunity to show we care. sense of togetherness, we not only weathered
They know we feel honored to be part of their the storm of the pandemic, but flourished
morning routine and gatherings. In turn, they in ways we could have never foreseen. It’s a
have included us and our pastries in the very testament to the power of genuine connection
fabric of their lives, from birthdays to weddings, and unwavering commitment to the community
or just for a morning coffee outing with friends. we are privileged to serve.

48 Pastry Arts
Why revisit perfection?
So everyone can have a taste.
Introducing our new line of dairy-free
chocolate. It’s everything you expect
Guittard chocolate to be — exquisitely
crafted, meticulously sourced,
mouthwateringly delicious — but kosher
pareve and without any dairy. It’s made
on a dedicated production line, which
means every chocolate lover can indulge
without worries.
So, whether you’re a dairy-free ice cream
maker, vegan bakery, or you just want
to reach more people with your recipes,
we’ve got an option for you.
Visit guittard.com to request a sample.
Flavor Inspiration

Flavor
Inspiration
In our Flavor Inspiration column,
we connect with professionals who
showcase a unique creation, reveal its
flavor profile and offer one technical tip.

50 Pastry Arts
 White
Pyramid
By Camila Fonseca
Dellicá Doces Finos
@dellicadocesfinos

Flavor Profile
The shells are made with a white Belgian
couverture from Callebaut, and the
double filling is composed of a Sicilian
lime ganache, made with both the juice
and zest, and a brown sugar caramel with
vanilla.

Technical Tip
The caramel made with brown sugar gives
more color and a slightly bitter taste that
nicely complements the lime ganache’s
sweetness and acidity.

Photo by Camila Fonseca Teixeira

and Jessica Andrade

Pastry Arts 51
 Flavor Profile
This dessert is composed of four different
tubes, the first of which contains a Saint
Domingue 70% chocolate mousse, miso
caramel and cocoa nougatine on the base that
has been lightly sprayed. The second tube is a
miso and Callebaut Gold chocolate cremeux
surrounded by a citrus jelly made from a mix
of blood orange, mandarin and yuzu Ponthier
purée, and garnished with wavy chocolate lines
on top. The third tube is a filo pastry roulade
sprinkled with poppy seeds and filled with a gel
made from the citrus mix. The last tube is filled
with miso ice cream. The finishing decoration
of the plate is done with the citrus gel, citron
caviar and red amaranth. The four tubes are
all the same length, but they are not aligned
and not at the same height, to give volume,
lightness and movement to the dessert while
allowing for a consistent eating experience.

Technical Tip
The principal technical tip for this dessert
is the realization of the chocolate wave. To
make it, the chocolate and the tube need to
be at perfect temperature and texture. If the
chocolate is too fluid (hot), the shape of the
wave will not appear. If the chocolate is too
hard (cold), the chocolate will not stick to the
jelly and can break when the acetate is gently
peeled away.

Photo by
Philip Khoury

Miso Citrus
Chocolate
By Kevin Marmion
Pastry Sous Chef, Harrods,
London, UK
@kevinmarmion

52 Pastry Arts
 Flavor Profile
This dessert showcases the beauty of the
Japanese citrus fruit Hyuganatsu. The fruit is
cooked in its own juice to make the fruit jelly
on top, while yuzu juice is used in a whipped
ganache for piping. This is paired with a
crunchy pâte sucrée tart filled with a citrus
fruit curd, with added texture from candied
Hyuganatsu peel.

Tarte aux Technical Tip

The main technical tip is to cut the Hyuganatsu

Hyuganatsu evenly into 0.2ʺ (0.5 cm) thick slices, keeping

the white part of the skin as much as possible,
and arranging the slices tightly to get a beautiful
By Mandy Siu cross section. This is the best way to enjoy the
sweetness and unique taste of Hyuganatsu.
Yuen-sang Photo by Mandy Siu Yuen-sang
Pastry Chef and Director,
Finessence Patisserie
@mandys_pastrychef

Pastry Arts 53
 Flavor Profile
The main flavor in Fleur de Myrtille is
blueberry. For starters, Ponthier’s blueberry
purée reduction is used in the blueberry biscuit
mixture for its natural color and flavor. Next,
the flower petals are filled with blueberry
cheese diplomat and strawberry confit before
placing onto a cocoa sablé. On top of the
dessert is a glazed blueberry cheese diplomat
sphere finished with Debic mascarpone cream.
Fleur de No colorants were added for this dessert.

Myrtille Technical Tip

A technical tip used in the making of the sponge
would be to bake the purée at 176°F (80°C).
By Ming Ai Loi This will allow for better color retention of the
purée reduction, preserving its beautiful natural
World Pastry Champion color. The second technical tip would be to
2019, Co-founder of bake the sponge at a slightly high temperature
with a shorter baking time. This will give the
Voila Patisserie sponge a more flexible texture when curving
@loimingai them into flower petals.

54 Pastry Arts
 Sudachi,
Coconut
& Cereal
By Thibault Marchand
Corporate Chef &
Technical Ambassador,
Les vergers Boiron
@marchandthibaultoff

Flavor Profile
The flavor combination in this dessert is sudachi
and coconut. I used the new Sudachi purée without
added sugar from Les Vergers Boiron and the
Coconut purée (also without added sugar) from Les
Vergers Boiron to create this dessert. You’ll first
taste the sudachi in the mousse, then you get the
coconut and the sudachi gel kick in your palate, and
finally, the crunchiness of the cereal biscuit.

Technical Tip
The essential technical tip is to bake the cereal base
well before you bake it with the biscuit, so you’ll
have a base that gives a crunchy texture to the
dessert. Also, the glaze needs to be thin so it won’t
add too much sweetness.

Photo by @sergechapuis
@les_vergers_boiron

Pastry Arts 55
 Flavor Profile
This dessert is made with Aegen olives, lemon
and almonds from the same region, and it
combines salty, sour and sweet elements at
the same time. The acidity of the lemon cream
and lemon gel balances the saltiness and oily
texture of the olive mousse. Olive oil and an
almond financier add sweetness and a moist
texture.

Ege Olive Technical Tip

Making the shape by hand is a challenging
process for this dessert. I used cling film
By Tuncay Lale to initially form the rough shape, and after
freezing in a blast freezer, sculpted it by hand.
Executive Pastry Chef, Make sure it is fully frozen before removing the
cling film to prevent it from melting quickly and
Cartel Coffee Company losing the shape.
@tuncaylalee
Photo by Yelda Kekeme @yeldda

56 Pastry Arts
 Flavor Profile
The main flavor in this dessert is pear.
The light carbonation of the fresh slices
provides a freshness, complexity, and a
touch of minerality on the tongue, with
a cooling sensation given by the pear
sorbet. The secondary notes are a hint of
citrus from the lemon verbena and a floral
light bitterness from the Pernod jelly. The
preparation is completed with a few grassy
drops of fig leaf oil for contrast.

Technical Tip
There are a few important technical
aspects to keep in mind when preparing
this dessert. For example, the carbonation
of the pear must be done for the right
amount of time and with the right amount
of pressure (two NO2 charges for 45
minutes). This ensures that the pear’s
structure is slightly altered but the texture
is not lost. It is also important to understand
the layering of flavor. The goal is to create
a lasting preparation that changes as you
eat it, with primary, secondary and tertiary
components that surface at different
stages.

Profile photo by John Heng @daphotographer

Pollice Dessert photo by Justin Teo @justinfoodprints

Verde 2.0
By Daniele Sperindio
Chef-Owner, Art di Daniele
Sperindio, I’WA Group
@chefdanielesperindio

Pastry Arts 57
 Flavor Profile
The flavor profile of this dessert is distinctly
tropical, including coconut, pineapple, passion
fruit and mango. It is encased in a Valrhona
72% Araguani chocolate shell.

Tropical Cake
Technical Tip
The essential technical tip for this dessert is to
pour the coconut semifreddo into the chocolate
dome when it is cool. Also, scoop out the center
By Akshay Batra of the semifreddo to form a cavity once it is
completely set in the freezer before putting the
Executive Pastry Chef, mango passion fruit salsa in the center.
Sofitel Dubai The Palm
@chefakshaybatra Photo by Akshay Batra

58 Pastry Arts
Vanilla 101

Flecks of Flavor
Vanilla Done Differently
By Robert Wemischner

Treasure Island cake

from Fleur de Cocoa
in Los Gatos, CA.

60 Pastry Arts Sponsored by Tahitian Gold Vanilla

 W
hat’s black, tiny, and full of flavor?
If you answered Tahitian Gold Ground whole
vanilla beans, you’re on the right path to infusing
everything from bonbons to diplomat cream
and from tropical fruit coulis to ice cream. Listening to a raft of
pastry chefs from San Francisco to Paris, one is convinced that this
easy-to-use product has a mighty effect on the full range of sweet
goods. Just think about how much flavor can be contained in a fleck
estimated at 1/1000 of an inch. How can something so small be so
impactful? The answer lies in the proprietary process that Tahitian
Gold uses to grind vanilla beans at their peak of flavor. Unlocking
the cell walls of properly cured vanilla beans in ground form leads to
the best and most thorough transfer of vanilla’s true flavor.

Using ground vanilla is much like adding any liquid bases of our ice creams, featuring it in
other ground spice to a product. And as a several different flavors, from Secret Breakfast
bonus, it can hold its own under the high heat to Tahitian Vanilla to Chocolate XXXL and Black
of the oven, and if used a bit generously, makes Sesame. She adds, “When making ice cream
a strong visual impact that announces with just a few key ingredients, every
its presence before one even ingredient must shine. In our
tastes the resulting dessert. Secret Breakfast flavor, ground
Pound for pound, ground vanilla from Papua New
vanilla beans outshine Guinea brings the perfect
whole beans in flavor level of sweetness,
nuances and intensity. And marrying beautifully
they eliminate the laborious with the bourbon and
process of scraping beans of buttermilk, underpinning
indeterminate quality. its richness.” At a dosage
Ask Helena Boyd, Production of nine grams per four-
Supervisor at award-winning gallon batch, the ground vanilla
Humphry Slocombe Ice Cream is an economical addition, yielding
in San Francisco, about her just enough floral personality
commitment to ground vanilla, without overwhelming the flavors of
she says: “We add it directly to the the other ingredients.

Pastry Arts 61
 their flavor to another level. The ground vanilla
marries particularly well with autumn fruits.
At several Parisian cafes, Houadek fashions
classic desserts, including a vanilla-perfumed
custard filling for a millefeuille. He says, “In a
place that takes its pastry seriously, using this
form of vanilla adds magical, economical layers
of flavor.”
French born World Pastry Champion,
M.O.F. (Meilleur Oeuvrier de France Pâtissier-
Confiseur), educator, sugar artist and chocolatier
Stéphane Tréand, owner of Francium Chocolate
in Tustin, California, loves the complex aroma
of ground vanilla. “It’s so easy to dose with
predictable results. I find that for each vanilla
bean, I use 1.5 to 2 grams of ground vanilla bean
Another convert, Aimeric Davy, owner of and particularly like how it elevates nougatine
Fleur de Cocoa in Los Gatos, California, recalls and marshmallows. It’s perfect when you don’t
his vanilla-scented childhood: “I use as much as want to add moisture to a preparation.” He
I can in my millefeuilles, tarte Normande and cautions, “Due to its potency, the ground vanilla
canelés, and have fond memories of simple should be used judiciously. Too much overtakes
Sunday breakfasts of crêpes subtly flavored the flavor of everything else in a dessert or
with vanilla and rum.” He continues: “I love the bonbon.” At Francium, Tréand has introduced a
true vanilla flavor that the ground beans yield, line of bite-sized bouchées featuring nougatine,
using it in small economical doses. Infusing the ganache, praline and marshmallow, enrobed in
ground vanilla in liquid bases overnight pays dark chocolate. He says, “Lollipops and clusters
high dividends in the finished product.” of caramelized almonds in chocolate each gain
Heading the pastry program at cafés in from the subtle but alluring presence of vanilla.
Paris, Faycal Houadek likes to feature ground I also love it in a tea-flavored ganache, and
vanilla made from Madagascar beans. “Working it elevates a simple sablé dough to gourmet
the magnificent and highly perfumed ground status.” Stéphane Tréand’s pronouncements say
vanilla into my seasonal fruit tarts elevates it all.

62 Pastry Arts
Exotic Cake
By Faycal Houadek, Pastry Chef, La Mere Catherine,
Le Cadet de Gascogne and Café Louise, Paris, France

Layers of genoise alternate with a mascarpone-enriched Diplomat

Cream. At the heart of this multilayered dessert is a taste of the
tropics with clouds of whipped cream atop.

Yield: 16 servings

add to the cooked pastry cream. Whisk to

Diplomat Cream dissolve thoroughly into the mixture. Place
a sheet of plastic wrap directly over the
• 300 g granulated sugar pastry cream and then refrigerate until cold.
• 200 g cornstarch 4. Once cold, beat in the mascarpone. Return
• 480 g egg yolks the finished mixture to the refrigerator,
• 1 lt cream covered, until ready to assemble the dessert.
• 2 lt milk
• 
2 g Tahitian Gold Madagascar Ground
Vanilla Beans
Genoise
• 15 sheets gelatin, soaked in ice water
• 200 g whole eggs
• 1 kg mascarpone
• 125 g granulated sugar
• 125 g cake flour
1. Mix the sugar and cornstarch to blend. Add
the egg yolks and beat until lightened in • 11 g baking powder
color.
2. Bring the cream and milk just to the boil. 1. Whip the eggs and sugar until pale.
Add the hot liquid to the sugar, cornstarch, 2. Sift the flour with the baking powder.
and egg yolk mixture, whisking until well Gently fold into the beaten egg mixture
blended. Blend in the ground vanilla. Return until just incorporated – do not overwork
the mixture to a clean heavy-bottomed the mixture. Pour onto a sheet pan lined
saucepan and whisk until thickened and with parchment and bake at 338°F (170°C)
smooth. for about 20 minutes. Cut into 16 circles
3. Remove the gelatin from the ice water, that are 4ʺ (10 cm) in diameter and 1.4ʺ (3
squeezing out the excess liquid, and then cm) thick.

Pastry Arts 63
 Chantilly Cream
• 
1 lt heavy cream (35% fat content)
• 
150 g confectioners’ sugar
• 
500 g mascarpone
• 
1 g Tahitian Gold Madagascar Ground
Vanilla Beans
• 
5 g yellow food coloring powder

1. Whip the cream and confectioners’ sugar

to thicken lightly. Add the mascarpone and
ground vanilla and then divide the mixture
into two equal parts. To one part, add the
yellow food coloring powder, leaving the
other part as is.
Mango-Passionfruit Insert
Assembly
• 
10 fresh mangoes, peeled, pitted and
puréed 1. Place the sixteen 4ʺ (10 cm) metal ring
• 
10 fresh passionfruit, scraped and sieved molds onto a sheet pan. Line each ring with
to yield purée food grade acetate strips.
• 1 lt coconut milk 2. Place a circle of genoise in the bottom of
• 
50 g granulated sugar (optional), depending each mold. Pipe in a layer of Diplomat
on sweetness of the fruit Cream and then, using a small offset spatula,
• 
50 g agar agar spread the cream to the edges of the ring.
• 
1 g Tahitian Gold Madagascar Ground Then place another circle of genoise on top
Vanilla Beans of this Diplomat Cream layer. Then pipe
more Diplomat Cream over the genoise,
spreading this layer out to the edge of the
1. Bring fruit purée and coconut milk to boil. ring. Center the frozen Mango-Passionfruit
Add agar agar and boil, whisking to dissolve Insert in the cream, pressing down lightly
completely. so that the fruit insert is well seated. Pipe
2. Remove from the heat and whisk in the the remaining Diplomat Cream over each
ground vanilla. Mix to disperse well. Place insert. Then place the yellow and plain
an equal amount of the mixture in each of Chantilly Cream into separate pastry bags.
sixteen 1.5ʺ(4 cm) round silicone molds and Pipe out the mixtures as you wish to create
freeze until firm. a pleasing design (refer to photo).

64 Pastry Arts
 Gourmet
Praline Bar
By Stephane Treand, Francium, Tustin, CA
By Stéphane Tréand, Sablé Viennois
Francium, Tustin, CA
• 420 g cold unsalted butter
• 68 g egg whites
This multilayered confection is a symphony • 165 g confectioners’ sugar
of textures and flavors with a base of • 500 g high-gluten flour
buttery sablé cookie. Caramelized nuts and • 2 g sea salt
milk chocolate combine for a center layer, • 2 g Tahitian Gold Whole Vanilla Bean Paste
and marshmallow tops things off. The bars Madagascar, Bourbon Premium
are then enrobed in dark chocolate.
1. Put all ingredients in a food processor and
Yield: 40 bars mix for about 30 seconds. Rest for a few
hours in the refrigerator.
2. Roll out the dough to a thickness of 4 mm.
Bake at 340º F (171°C) for about 15 minutes.
Cool and place in a half sheet pan-sized metal
frame as the base for the multi-layered bar.

Pastry Arts 65
 1. Cook sugar, water, and glucose in a copper
pot to 246ºF (119°C). Add the almonds and
hazelnuts and keep stirring on the stove
until caramelized. Immediately pour the
mixture out on a Silpat to cool down.
2. Break into pieces and then process to
a paste in the food processor. Add the
ground vanilla and ground coffee. Continue
processing until a soft paste texture is
achieved.
3. In a bowl, mix the melted milk chocolate,
cocoa butter and hazelnut paste and warm
to 113º F (45°C). Add to the praline mixture,
combine well and then temper to 75º F
(24°C). Pour the tempered mixture over
the baked Sablé Viennois and let set for 30
minutes in the refrigerator.

Vanilla Marshmallow
• 
440 g granulated sugar
• 
145 g water
• 
135 g glucose
• 
190 g invert sugar
• 
250 g gelatin mixture (36 g gelatin powder
dissolved in 214 g water)
• 
6 g Tahitian Gold Madagascar Ground
Vanilla Beans
Hazelnut-Almond Praliné
1. Cook the sugar, water, and glucose to 230º
• 500 g granulated sugar F (110°C).
• 130 g water 2. Place the invert sugar, gelatin mixture and
• 100 g glucose the ground vanilla into the bowl of an electric
• 375 g almonds, whole mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Pour
• 375 g hazelnuts, whole the hot syrup into the bowl and whip for
• 
2 g Tahitian Gold Madagascar Ground about 10 minutes. Then pour the mixture
Vanilla Beans over the praline layer in the frame. Let set
overnight and cut into 4ʺ x 1 1/4ʺ (10.16
• 
15 g ground coffee cm x 3.17 cm) bars.
• 
400 g milk chocolate, melted 3. If you desire, enrobe the bars with tempered
• 
120 g cocoa butter dark chocolate and put a chocolate
• 
200 g hazelnut paste decoration on top of each bar.

66 Pastry Arts
 Secret
Breakfast
Ice Cream
By Helena Boyd, Production Manager,
Humphry Slocombe, San Francisco, CA

Breakfast for dessert, anyone?

This ice cream, named with a bit
of tongue in cheek, fills the bill.
Somehow the cereal component
here may ease the guilt.

Yield: 1 quart

Corn Flake Cookies*

• 250 g all-purpose flour
• 6 g baking soda
• 3 g Diamond Crystal Kosher Salt
• 
227 g unsalted butter, at room
temperature
• 200 g granulated sugar
• 220 g brown sugar
• 2 medium eggs
• 56 g Corn Flakes

*Note: You will only be using 2 ounces

of the baked cookies. The remainder of
the dough may be scooped and frozen
for future use.

Pastry Arts 67
1. Sift together the flour, baking soda and salt 2. In a large, heavy-bottomed, nonreactive
in a medium bowl. saucepan over medium heat, combine the
2. In a large bowl, using an electric mixer or cream, buttermilk and salt and cook, stirring
beating by hand with a wooden spoon, occasionally, until hot, but not boiling.
cream the butter with both sugars until 3. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk
smooth and well blended. Add the eggs one together the egg yolks and sugar until well
at a time, beating until smooth after each blended.
addition. Add the flour mixture a little at a 4. Remove the cream mixture from the heat.
time, beating just until incorporated. Fold in Slowly pour about half of the hot cream
the Corn Flakes. Refrigerate the dough for mixture into the yolk mixture, whisking
at least 2 hours and up to 2 weeks. constantly. Transfer the yolk mixture back
3. Preheat the oven to 350°F (177°C). Scoop to the saucepan with the remaining cream
golf ball-size portions of the dough onto mixture and return it to medium heat. Cook,
ungreased baking sheets, spacing them stirring constantly with a rubber spatula
about 1 inch apart. Bake until deep brown, and being sure to scrape the bottom of
about 30 minutes for crisp cookies. Transfer the saucepan so it doesn’t scorch, until the
to wire racks to cool. If they are still soft liquid begins to steam, and you can feel the
when cooled, flip them over and bake for 5 spatula scrape against the bottom of the pan,
minutes more. (For softer cookies, bake for 2 to 3 minutes. (The mixture should reach
12 to 15 minutes.) 180°F/82°C.) Remove the custard from the
4. When the cookies are cooled and crisp, heat and immediately pour it through the
roughly chop and set aside. Store whole strainer into the clean bowl you set up in
cookies in airtight containers at room the ice bath. Stir in the bourbon and ground
temperature and chop as needed for future vanilla. Let cool, stirring occasionally.
batches. They are best enjoyed on the same 5. When the custard has totally cooled, cover
day, but good for at least 3 days before they the bowl tightly and chill in the refrigerator
start getting stale. for at least 1 hour or, preferably,
overnight.
Ice Cream Base 6. When you are ready
to freeze the custard,
• 480 g heavy cream transfer it to an ice
cream maker and spin
• 240 g buttermilk according to the
• 
6 g Diamond Crystal m a n u f a c t u re r ’s
Kosher Salt instructions. Right
• 
3 egg yolks from after spinning,
medium-size eggs fold in 57 g of
• 200 g granulated sugar chopped cookies.
• 120 g bourbon Transfer to an
airtight container,
• 
2 g Tahitian Gold Papua New cover, and freeze for
Guinea Ground Vanilla Beans up to one week.
1. Fill a large bowl or pan with
ice and water. Place a large,
clean bowl in the ice bath and
fit the bowl with a fine-mesh
strainer.

68 Pastry Arts
 TAHITIAN GOLD®
Specialty Vanilla Products
Since 1994

Vanilla Done Discover the rich and

Differently. complex flavor of vanilla

like never before. Our
specialty vanilla products
are carefully crafted to bring
out the best of every bean.
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contain more than 400 flavor
compounds, half of which are actually
found in their outer shell. That’s why
Photo: Cross-section of a vanilla bean during the curing process.

we’ve perfected our process to grind

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New & Notable

Eddie is Kosher!
Primera Technology, Inc., a leading global our unwavering dedication to meeting the
manufacturer of innovative printing solutions, needs of our observant Jewish customers and
has obtained kosher certification for one providing them with products that are not only
of its flagship products, Eddie, The Edible kosher but also meet the highest standards
Ink Printer. By undergoing this certification, of food safety, purity, and quality. The Kosher
Primera distinguishes itself from other edible Pareve certification adds to our extensive list
ink printer manufacturers by supplying not of industry-leading certifications, including
only kosher inks but also ensuring that its cGMP certification for Eddie’s print head and
entire product and production processes meet filling equipment, FDA approval of our ink-
the strict standards set forth by a certified filling cleanroom, and our NSF certification for
kosher organization. Mark D. Strobel, Vice the printer itself. We are immensely proud of
President of Sales and Marketing at Primera, these accomplishments and remain committed
says, “We are thrilled to have successfully to providing exceptional products that meet
completed the certification process with the the diverse needs of our customers.” For more
Kosher Supervisors of Wisconsin. Obtaining information about Eddie and the range of
kosher certification for Eddie, The Edible Ink products by Primera Technology, visit www.
Printer, is a significant milestone. It exemplifies primera.com.

70 Pastry Arts
The Adventures
of Chirpy
Gourmet
Pastry chef and author
Robert Bellini has woven
the skills he learned in
some of the country’s top
restaurant kitchens into an engaging new
series of children’s books. Chirpy’s Tasty
Adventures Kids’ Cookbook Series combines
FLAVORED
fun and uplifting short story adventures with COCOA BUTTERS
inspiring (yet easy) recipes. Parents and kids
who like to read and cook together will love Vanilla, Coffee & Rum
the heroine of the series, Chirpy Gourmet.
Adventures such as Islamorada Voyagers,
Lunch in the Big Easy, and Ice Pops & Poetry
will have you wanting to read more and
prepare delectable recipes from each story.
Chirpy Gourmet is a fun, upbeat young girl
who loves her family, friends and food.
Her joyful spirit is reflected in the stories,
which focus on themes such as gratitude,
sharing, inspiration, confidence building and
COFFEE VANILLA RUM
appreciating fresh food. Each book has three BRAZIL PAPUA NEW GUINEA

or four stories and 18 to 25 recipes, including

main courses, baked goods, salads, soups, fun
COFFEE FL AVORED COCOA BUTTER RUM FLAVORED COCOA BUTTER
PRODUCT OF FRANCE VANILLA FL AVORED COCOA BUTTER PRODUCT OF FRANCE

PRODUCT OF FRANCE

drinks, frozen fruit pops, and more. Bellini

Net wt 15.8 fl oz (450g) Net wt 15.8 fl oz (450g)

Net wt 15.8 fl oz (450g)

proudly donates a portion of every sale to

St. Jude Children’s
Research Hospital, and
kids at St. Jude get to The perfect combination, resulting from
read Chirpy’s books our expertise, to flavor in a single step.
while they recover.
Chirpy Gourmet
Kids Cookbooks are Intense aromatic For all your uses:
for kids aged seven Ready profile with Clean ice cream, glazes,
and older; all books to use consistent Label coatings, flockings,
results and more!
are available on
chirpygourmet.com
and amazon.com
Find all our recipes on :
www.provagourmet.com
@provagourmet_us
Pastry Arts 71
FCIA: The
If you think of chocolate as one of the major
food groups; if you think everything from
sweets to savories taste better coated in cacao;
if your birthday, Christmas, Mother’s Day and

Chocolate
Valentine’s Day gifts regularly arrive with a
couverture and a ballotin; if you’re bad with
math, but you know a 70% bar blindfolded; if

Think Tank
you hold your liqueur better than your liquor;
you probably belong (or should belong) to the
Fine Chocolate Industry Association (FCIA),
an impressive roster of purveyors, makers,
chefs, marketers, packagers, store owners or
simply lecithin-laced enthusiasts who savor
By Brian Cazeneuve their passions one bonbon at a time. Twice a
year, the FCIA holds a conference on the eve
of the Fancy Food Show, which generally takes
turns on each coast and resides in New York
City during the summer (the winter meetings
shifted from San Francisco to Las Vegas last
year).

72 Pastry Arts
 Founded in 2007, the FCIA sports 350 to-bar chocolate. “I didn’t go looking for this
members from 20 countries. At this semi- business,” said Andrews, a former executive
annual gathering, the group debated the with Price Waterhouse Coopers. “It found me.”
troubling impact of cadmium, updated the
industry’s accepted chocolate glossary and Jody Hayden and her husband DC may
bestowed upon a chocolate from Izabel, have some adventurous menu options in their
Guatemala by chocolate maker Rodrigo Sevilla, shop, Grocer’s Daughter, in Empire, Michigan
its 17th designation of heirloom cacao, a sort of – anyone for pulled chocolate chicken chili?
international Hall-of-Fame designation for fine – but Jody stresses a simple mantra. “Always
chocolate. ask for help,” she says. “Always ask questions.
Always reach out. People want to help.”
But as when any think tank forms with a high
concentration of passion, the highlights were Michael Recchiuti and Mark Bitterman
the words – nuggets and nibs – that chocolate confirmed that assertion. Recchiuti has been
makers shared about their journeys, and the a San-Francisco-based chocolatier since 1977.
advice they shared. He was visiting Bitterman’s specialty store in
Oregon and needed a ride to get to another
Consider Erin Andrews of Indi chocolate in appointment. “Here are the keys to my car,”
Seattle’s Pike Place Market. Her daughter had Bitterman told him. “Mi Subaru es su Subaru.”
skin issues, so her use of cocoa butter to help Bitterman explained that he takes the same
her daughter evolved into something else. Now personal approach with clients. “We greet
she offers everything from classes to chocolate every single customer who walks into the
lotions to equipment and, of course, bean- store,” he says. “We greet them in the eye.”
In an era of quantification brought on by
social media, Nate Hodge, the co-founder of
Brooklyn-based Raaka Chocolates, also keeps
his marketing personal. “I get on the phone,”
he says. “I want to hear firsthand from the top
one percent of our spenders: ‘Why do you buy
our product? What do you like? What can be
better?’” he asks them. “It helps us challenge
our assumptions about why people were
buying our product.”
Hodge said he began his chocolate career by
answering a Craigslist ad for someone making
chocolate in his apartment. “We had to move
out because the neighbors complained that the
grinders were shaking the walls too much,” he
recalls. In 2010, when Raaka was just starting,
Hodge posted stickers on lampposts to
promote his business. He needed capital, but
came to understand that once he established a
track record of reliable payments, the lenders
would fight over him. “I always use two banks,
so they compete against each other,” he says.
“And you can finance everything. I’ve financed
a moveable staircase, a ladder, you name it.”
The path is different for FCIA members, but
it’s worth the climb.

Pastry Arts 73
 Tomorrow’s
Hospitality, Today
The 43rd biennial Host Milano event will that this year’s competition will be a very
be held from 13 to 17 October, 2023, at the tough context, with an extremely high level
Fiera Milano exhibition and trade centre in of designs submitted.” The last five editions of
Milan, Italy. Over 150 entries for the Smart the HostMilano competition have attracted
Label Host Innovation Awards competition more than 790 entries with awards made to
(run by Fiera Milano in partnership with Poli. 256 products and services. For details, visit
Design) were submitted in three categories: https://host.fieramilano.it/
Smart Label, Innovation Smart Label and Green
Smart Label. The awards will go to the most
innovative products, services and designs that
are distinctive for their functional efficiency,
technological content, or their environmental
sustainability and ethical or social correctness
in these categories. There are also ‘Special
Mention’ awards for food & beverage items
that display particularly innovative content.
“There has never been a better time in today’s
complex economic and social contexts for
design to be turned into a resource capable
of gearing society and production systems
towards new development models and of
becoming a strategic asset,” says Matteo
Ingaramo, President of Poli.design. “I am sure

74 Pastry Arts
The Ice
Cream
Grammar
Ice cream is Executive Pastry Chef Alessio
Piantinida’s passion, so when the pandemic
struck and he was looking for something
to do, he casually uploaded a video about
making his favorite treat to YouTube. The
video got so much attention that Piantinida
was inundated with questions, some asking
for book recommendations on the topic. It
was at this point that Piantinida realized there
wasn’t such a book – one geared to pros that
explained the science behind artisanal ice
cream and gelato – and that is what compelled
him to write The Ice Cream Grammar (Blurb,
2023). The Ice Cream Grammar is the complete
guide to making artisanal ice cream and gelato,
aimed at educating chefs and enthusiasts in
the science behind premium quality frozen
desserts. The book is packed full of easy-to-
understand processes and explanations, from
the history of ice cream, its components,
production and manufacturing, food safety and
hygiene, additives, allergens and, of course,
Alessio’s own delicious recipes for ice cream,
gelato, sorbet and granita. Piantinida explains,
“I loved writing the book and my background
in chemistry helps me to explain how and why
each ingredient works together the way they
do. For instance, why a specific ingredient
has been chosen and why it is present in
that specific amount. Once the reader has
understood this process, they then have the
confidence to develop their own recipes. I’ve
included my own recipes, but it is really about
empowering chefs to be experimental with
their own creations.” The Ice Cream Grammar is
available at www.theicecreamgrammar.com or
www.amazon.com.

Pastry Arts 75
Adamance
Fruit Purées
Adamance is a French fruit purée manufacturer
that was founded in 2019 by Valrhona chefs,
creators, and employees. Together, they took a
deep dive into the world of fruits and discovered
a panoply of beautiful flavors. Unfortunately, nice, ripe piece of fruit. For instance, they have
they also saw practices that were harmful to chosen to use PGI Sycracuse lemons, which
the environment, supply chains that were not are only harvested from November to March.
always open and honest, a race for quantity over These “Primo Fiore” lemons are sure to have
quality, and flavor falling by the wayside. This the most intense flavor. And to retain the
is why they have decided to act sustainably to taste and color of the fruit they use, with zero
protect fruits’ future and flavor and the future additives in their purées, they use a unique
of the people who work with them. With this technical process which is performed quickly at
goal in mind, Adamance respects four strong low temperatures, without oxygen. Every day,
commitments: 1) More respect for people and Adamance works to reinvent how fruit is used
nature; 2) More traceability; 3) More fruit; and and to enhance its taste in various applications.
4) More services. Adamance collaborates with Their main goal is to have chefs feel proud and
their partner farmers to make sure they are happy to use their fruit products and talk about
working in good conditions and to implement them to their customers. Adamance now offers
carefully considered practices as part of an a range of 11 frozen fruit purées in North
agroecological approach. Because of this, their America: Femminello Lemon Purée; Persian
lemons, apricots, peaches, coconuts and pears Lime Purée; Clery Strawberry Purée; Meeker
are guaranteed to have no pesticide residue. Raspberry Purée; Blackdown & Andorine
Adamance shares everything about the fruits Blackcurrant Purée; Wild Blueberry Purée;
they use, so chefs can tell their stories to their Green Williams Pear Purée; Montrouge & Patty
customers. For example, an apricot is not just White Peach Purée; Kesar & Alphonso Mango
an apricot for them. It’s a Lido apricot, grown Purée; Passion Fruit Purée; and Coconut
by Mr. Boisset on a High Environmental Value Cream. More information on Adamance, visit
farm in Châteauneuf-sur-Isère. Adamance www.valrhona.us/partner-brands/adamance
wants their purées to be just as delicious as a or contact cs@valrhona-selection.com.

76 Pastry Arts
 Plating
Dessert
with Style
Eunjii Lee is one of the most exciting pastry
chefs on the modern dessert scene, and her
book Plating Dessert (The Table, 2022) is as sleek
and sumptuous as one of her multi-component
desserts. Formerly the pastry chef at the two
Michelin-starred restaurant Jungsik, Lee is now a buckwheat tuile. Plating Dessert includes
the owner of Lysée in New York City, where an inside look at 10 of Lee’s signature plated
she weaves classic French technique with creations, with detailed, lush photography
Korean flavors to create memorable desserts. and step-by-step instructions, along with the
Her Apple Tatin, for example, incorporates a inspiring story of her journey from becoming
lapsang souchong caramel, and is served with a a pastry chef to opening her own pastry shop
coconut sorbet, while her ‘Giwa’ plated dessert in New York City. The book is in English and
is a minimalist take on a modern brownie, Korean, and is available on amazon.com and at
served with a smoked vanilla ice cream and kitchenartsandletters.com.

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Chocolate Talk

Chocolate
Snacking
By Kriss Harvey

Sponsored by Guittard Chocolate Company

78 Pastry Arts
W
hat is old is often
new again. The
first chocolate bar
was created in the
mid 1800’s. I grew
up eating candy
bars as my go-to snack. Now in my travels
and experience exploring the world of
chocolate, pastry and baking, I am seeing
a big increase in demand for chocolate
snacks in a variety of forms – from bark, to
nibs, to snack bars and snack cakes – and
I have been having a ton of fun creatively applications, and premium ingredients
bringing chocolate snacks to life. I have – and make modern versions of yummy
been creating my own chocolate blends things that everyone loves!
to bring out the flavors of each unique Recently, I have been working on
ingredient and to give each product my a Chocolate Peanut Nougat Caramel
own personal signature. Snack Bar – an homage to my childhood.
From a consumer perspective, a bonbon The combination of flavors adds depth
is a serious and special occasion treat. (Not and complexity to this bar. Chocolate
to mention, one bonbon is never enough.) is the backbone of the confection and
So, consumers are turning to more casual getting the chocolate right is the number
forms of chocolate to deliver on that one focus. Ensuring that the chocolate
snacking moment. One of my favorites is balances with the rest of the ingredients
the chocolate snack bar. It gives today’s will allow for the entirety of the piece
flavor-driven consumer a snacking treat to come to life. I see the U.S. as the
that’s complex, satisfying and fun. It’s an birthplace of the candy bar, so I chose to
eat-me-now snack that’s no longer meant work with Guittard Chocolate, a family-
just for a special occasion. owned American chocolate company
As a chef, I love making snack bars that has been crafting premium chocolate
because they offer a bigger canvas to for 155 years. They source cacao from
work with. I can deliver on texture, around the world that they then craft into
flavor, aroma and crunch all at once by a variety of nuanced flavor profiles that
layering a variety of complementary allowed me to make the perfect blend for
ingredients. I also love them because this bar. I selected three different Guittard
consumers love them. Having grown up Collection Etienne chocolates: Guittard
in the pastry world, I am accustomed to Soleil d’ Or 38% Cacao, Guittard L’Étoile
overseeing the dining experience finale du Nord 64% Cacao, and Guittard Lever
– where job number one is making sure du Soleil 61% Cacao. The ensemble of
the guest leaves wowed and delighted. I flavors pairs perfectly with the caramel,
carry this consumer centricity with me in salt and nutty flavors making each bite a
everything I create, and it has allowed me memorable snacking experience. I hope
to explore new flavor combinations, new you enjoy this as much as I do!

Pastry Arts 79
 Chocolate Peanut
Nougat Caramel
Snack Bar
By Kriss Harvey

80 Pastry Arts
 • 50 g invert sugar
PREPPING MOLDED SHELLS • 7 g sorbitol
• 100 g unsalted butter, room temperature
Using Chocolate World Mold Ref. 2125, line
and empty the mold with crystallized Guittard
Lever du Soleil 61% Cacao chocolate. Allow to 1. Melt the milk and dark chocolate by 50%.
retract, remove empty shells and reserve. 2. Warm the cream, invert sugar, and sorbitol.
3. Pour over the chocolate. Using an immersion
blender, blend thoroughly.
GANACHE
4. Measure the temperature of the ganache;
when the temperature reaches 104°F
• 500 g Guittard Soleil d’Or 38% Cacao
(40°C), add the room temperature butter
• 100 g Guittard L’Étoile du Nord 64% and blend thoroughly.
Cacao
5. Use the ganache when the temperature
• 300 g heavy cream reaches 90°F (32°C).

Pastry Arts 81
 FLEUR DE SEL 1. Heat the cream, glucose, and invert sugar
to 194°F (90°C); set aside.
CARAMEL GANACHE 2. Dry-caramelize the sugar to 379°F (193°C).
Deglaze with the cream mixture.
• 237 g heavy cream
3. Cool the caramel to 176°F (80°C). Pour
• 119 g glucose over the chocolate and emulsify with an
• 59 g invert sugar immersion blender.
• 217 g granulated sugar 4. Add the butter, cocoa butter and fleur de
• 237 g Guittard Soleil d’ Or 38% Cacao sel when the temperature drops to 104°F
• 119 g salted butter (40°C) and blend with an immersion
blender.
• 40 g cocoa butter
5. Use the ganache when the temperature
• 5 g fleur de sel
drops to 90°F (32°C).

82 Pastry Arts
 PEANUT NOUGAT
• 230 g granulated sugar, divided
• 35 g egg whites
• 73 g water
• 45 g glucose
• 172 g honey
• 10 g fine sea salt
• Glucose powder, as needed
• 203 g peanuts, chopped

1. Mix 10 g of the sugar with the egg whites in

the bowl of a stand mixer.
2. Cook the water, remaining 220 g sugar,
glucose and honey to 284°F (140°C). Pour
over the sugar and egg white mixture, and
whip on high speed in a stand mixer. Mix
the nougat until it is developed.
3. Switch the attachment from the whip to the
paddle, add the salt and the ground roasted
peanuts.
4. Dust a marble surface with glucose powder
and knead the nougat, then roll between 2
pieces of parchment paper to 5mm.
5. Cut with a 2.4ʺ (6-cm) ring cutter and
reserve on a Silpat.

Pastry Arts 83
 ASSEMBLY
• Dry roasted peanuts

1. Pipe an even portion of the plain ganache

into the mold, then gently press a nougat
portion into the ganache.
2. Pipe some fleur de sel ganache over the
nougat, then sprinkle a few dry roasted
peanuts on top.
3. Allow to crystallize overnight at 64°F
(18°C) and 60% humidity.

84 Pastry Arts
ENROBING
Enrobe snack bar with Guittard Lever
du Soleil 61% Cacao. Use a fan setting
medium/high to remove excess chocolate.
Dust snack bar with gold leaf while the
chocolate is still wet.

Pastry Arts 85
Expert Tips

Five Tips
Five Experts
In our Expert Tips column, we connect with
five professionals in the categories we remain
focused on—pastry, chocolate, baking, bread,
frozen—to attain one high-level tip.

86 Pastry Arts
 soaking hydrates and tenderizes
Bread the grain. And sometimes I’ll
combine grains with seeds,
Lionel Vatinet, which we do not soak before
Master Baker/Owner of adding to the dough. Some of the
La Farm Bakery and author of grains I love using are amaranth,
A Passion for Bread buckwheat and millet. Seeds that are
delicious to incorporate include sunflower
Incorporating ancient grains and seeds into and sesame seeds. I also like to add a touch of
breads is a delicious and healthy way to add honey to the mix which yields a complex nutty
flavor, texture, and create an even more flavor to the final baked bread. Working with
nutritious bread, packed with fiber. I like to whole grains and seeds is a great way to make
use whole grains, which we soak in water a bread your own, and create more interest,
overnight before adding it to our dough. The both visually and in mouthfeel.

Pastry Arts 87
Pastry
Clement Goyffon, Executive Pastry
Chef, ONE65, San Francisco, CA and
2023 World Champion of the ICC
When I make my brioche feuilletée,
I use half granulated sugar and half
brown sugar, which gives the brioche
a moist texture. Also, when I mix my
dough, I mix it on first speed for 3
minutes and then on second speed for
5 minutes, then I add my cold, cubed
butter one piece at a time. I then mix
on first speed for 10 minutes and then
on second speed for 2 minutes. With
this method you are certain to have a
dough that is below 73°F (23°C). When
I finish mixing my dough, I do one fold
then and leave the dough out at room
temperature for 20 minutes. At this
point I want my gluten to be as relaxed
as possible, because it will develop
during lamination. I then put my dough
in the refrigerator overnight to develop
the flavors. The next day I press down
on the dough to remove the gas, then
I put it in the blast freezer. I want my
dough at 34°F (1°C) and my butter at
43°F (6°C). It’s very important to control
that, because with these temperatures
you are sure to avoid a transfer of fat,
and you will have perfect layers.

88 Pastry Arts
Frozen
Alessio Piantinida, Traveling Executive Pastry Chef,
Viking Cruises, and author of The Ice Cream Grammar Book.
One important tip to ensure consistency when using fresh
fruit in ice cream is to measure its sugar content. When
using frozen fruit purée, the factory standardizes the sugar
content at usually 10%. This makes formulation way easier.
If, however, we are to use fresh or frozen whole fruit, we
must know its sugar content, and counteract in the recipe
balancing. The sugar can be easily determined using an
inexpensive refractometer. Ingredient measurement will
help you create top-notch ice cream with a consistently
smooth texture and well-balanced flavors.

Pastry Arts 89
 Cake
Sabrina Sigouin,
Owner,
La Belle Pâtissière,
labellepatissiere.com
Use chocolate
ganache to cover a
sculpted cake instead
of buttercream. Unlike
buttercream, ganache will remain firm,
almost like edible clay, and will result in
sharper outlines for the carved details of
your sculpted cake. It can also be covered
with fondant or modeling chocolate, and you
can work on your cake for hours without the
ganache melting. My basic recipe is 2700
grams of chocolate for 1 liter of 35% cream.

90 Pastry Arts
 When tempering and working with chocolate
by hand, it is important to remember that
the cocoa butter continues to crystallize as
you use it, therefore the chocolate becomes
overseeded and its viscosity increases as you
work with it. Even if you hold the chocolate at
the optimal working temperature, it continues
crystallizing and thickening, albeit more
slowly. Working with overseeded chocolate
leads to myriad troubles including poor
contraction, air bubbles, lack of shine, and in
extreme cases, fat bloom. In order to avoid

Chocolate these issues, as you work, you must frequently

melt out the excess crystals that have formed,
while leaving enough seed crystals that the
Peter Greweling, C.M.B., Professor, chocolate is still properly tempered. There are
Baking and Pastry Arts, The Culinary Institute different techniques to accomplish this, and
of America, Hyde Park, NY they all can be successful.

Pastry Arts 91
 As you work with the chocolate, and the
viscosity begins to increase slightly, turn a
gas burner on full heat. Slide the bowl of
chocolate directly onto the burner, and while
stirring it constantly, count “1,2,5”. Remove
from heat and continue stirring until the bowl
cools. When you 1,2,5 the chocolate, you
warm the bottom of the bowl. The warmth
from that bowl goes into the chocolate
melting excess cocoa butter crystals, thereby
maintaining, or improving, the viscosity.
It is extremely important that you not
return the bowl to the heat until the bottom
of the bowl feels cooler than your wrist
(88°F/31°C on an infrared thermometer)! If
the bottom of the bowl feels warmer than
your wrist, there is still heat going into the
chocolate, just continue gently stirring until it
feels cool. You should be striving to maintain
the chocolate, not to repair it. 1,2,5 the
chocolate before it thickens excessively. Of
course, any time you heat a bowl of tempered
chocolate, there is the potential to take it
out of temper, so as always, use caution, and
when in doubt, do a temper test! Overall,
1,2,5ing chocolate is a simple, effective
method for controlling and maintaining the
• Periodically warm the chocolate over a viscosity of chocolate as you work with it,
waterbath. This is my least preferred without the hazard of water or the need for
technique. When working with chocolate, another piece of equipment.
the last thing I want is water from
condensation dripping into my workspace,
or steam billowing onto my chocolate.
Yes, it can be done, but for me, it is a last
resort.
•  se a heat gun to occasionally warm
U
the chocolate. This is a highly effective
method, and I especially like it for larger
bowls of chocolate (10 lbs or more) that
are unwieldy to move around. However,
it is one more piece of equipment in my
station.
•  ccasionally warm directly on gas burner
O
flame. With smaller bowls of chocolate
(5 lbs) this is my preferred technique.
Here’s how it’s done!

92 Pastry Arts
 FINISH WHAT
WE STARTED. We put a lot of effort into growing better cacao beans,
because better cacao makes better chocolate.

It’s up to you to do the rest.

Milk Chocolate Mousse,

Pickled Asian Pear,
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and Cacao Nibs
created by:
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Rising Stars Alumna

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INFO@TCHO.COM
Profile

Toni
Rodriguez
Vegan Pastry Pioneer
By Tish Boyle

94 Pastry Arts
I
t was Paul McCartney and an avocado that changed the course
of Toni Rodriquez’s life.
When he was 17, Toni’s sister gave him a Paul McCartney
DVD of the concert celebrating the 20th anniversary of PETA.
She was a vegetarian, and she played the DVD while Toni sat
nearby, eating pork loin. At the end of the concert there were images
of slaughterhouses which made a big impact on him – Toni could not
justify loving his dog Kobi while continuing to eat the meat of other
animals. At the time the only two vegetables he ate were artichokes and
his father’s raw lima beans. But on that day 18 years ago, Toni gave up
meat for good.
As for the avocado, people used to tell him to put a few slices in a
sandwich, but he couldn’t see the appeal (even though he had never
actually tasted it). Once he did, however, it changed his life, because
he then understood if an avocado was that good alone, imagine what it
would be like when he combined it with other ingredients.
So, he quit his computer science job and started washing dishes in
a vegetarian restaurant, spending eight hours there and another eight
hours testing vegan recipes at home. His dogged determination paid
off –eventually he opened his own business in Barcelona, a vegan
bakery called Lujuria Vegana, or ‘Vegan Lust’. Today he
owns and operates, along with his wife and partner
Sara Pennacchio, Wildslice Academy, a vegan
pastry school and research center in
Barcelona where Toni teaches the
art of vegan pastry to students
all over the world. Recently
Toni took time out to reflect
on his vegan lifestyle and
his quest to educate the
world on how to make top-
notch vegan desserts, from
macarons to entremets to
croissants, and everything
in between.

Pastry Arts 95
 The Q&A
I created the vegan
You started experimenting with vegan macaron when there was
desserts way before others in Europe
did. What motivated you to do that? nothing else like it in the
Twenty years ago this summer, I became a world, but I also created
vegetarian. One year later I became a vegan.
At that time, nobody in Europe was making
a simple carrot cake and
vegan cakes. There were some vegan bakeries sold thousands of slices
in America – in Philadelphia, New York, Seattle,
Chicago and California, but not here. I was of that cake every week
an animal rights activist who became vegan.
During the first year of being a vegetarian, I in my bakery.”
ate a lot of eggs, but no dairy, because I don’t
like it. When I became vegan a year later, it was
harder without eggs. I found many vegetable U.S., so I contacted a few bakeries, but none
ingredients such as cereals, lentils and avocado, accepted me, even though I offered to work
which I didn’t know how to cook with. I fell in 16-hour days without pay, just so that I could
love with cooking after initially working in IT, learn. So, in 2005, I started my own business in
which I hated. After work, I went home and Barcelona – it was called Lujuria Vegana, which
cooked for my friends, and being an animal means ‘Vegan Lust’.
rights activist, I explained the reality of
slaughterhouses and how animals suffer, and
that we needed to find a solution, because it Was it difficult to find vegan
was difficult for people to change their ways ingredients back then?
without knowing how to cook. There were
a few vegan restaurants in Barcelona, and I Not only were the ingredients hard to find,
started washing dishes in one of them. Then so was knowledge. Everything is easier when
I started peeling carrots and onions – all the you have the knowledge. Today many people
dirty jobs that chefs dislike, I would do. In 2004, find it easy to make a vegan macaron by using
I tasted a vegan carrot cake potato protein. I created it, and without that
and I fell in love with knowledge you would be lost. There were
baking. At that time, also no good books covering vegan
there were no vegan baking then.
bakeries in Europe. I
wanted to move to the

96 Pastry Arts
You are known for your vegan
macarons –was that your first big
success?
I created the vegan macaron when there was
nothing else like it in the world, but I also
created a simple carrot cake and sold thousands
of slices of that cake every week in my bakery.
There are desserts for chocolate, fruit and nut
lovers, but my carrot cake lies in the middle –
everyone loves it. I am more proud of my carrot
cake than my macaron!

Americans love carrot cake – how does

your cake differ from ours?
My first trip to the U.S. was in 2007. I tasted
many carrot cakes there, but they were all bonbons and cookies. Our most important
too sweet for my palate. The main difference class is the intensive 40-hour class called
in my cake is the sweetness of the sponge. I Contemporary Vegan Pastry, which covers a
also needed to create a different cream cheese lot of theory and food technology. We teach
frosting, because it was also too sweet for the the theory of techniques and how they work. In
Spanish palate. Americans use three parts icing addition to everything being vegan, most of our
sugar to one part cream cheese, whereas we products are also gluten-free. We try to reduce
do the opposite in Spain. allergens as much as we can, because we want
to be a more inclusive patisserie. Our sponge is
Tell us about your vegan dessert free from soy, gluten, egg and dairy, and we are
happy because that attracts more customers.
school, Wildslice Academy, which you
opened in Barcelona in 2018.
Is there a big demand for gluten-free
I opened the Academy with Sara [Pennacchio], products in Europe?
my wife and partner, because I love to share
knowledge. I was doing many master classes, Yes, many people want them, which is why I try
and Sara suggested we open a culinary to make my products gluten-free, as well – to
school. Initially we combined savory food and include more customers in one recipe. I also
patisserie, because for many years I was explain that to my students who own cafés,
involved with fine dining, but today I prefer and sometimes offer gluten-free and vegan or
simpler, well-cooked food. All master classes at gluten-free and non-vegan products, which is
Wildslice Academy are exclusively patisserie, too complicated for a business. Instead, they
but we still consult to restaurants on savory should offer a product which is super good
food. We offer both on-site and online classes. while being gluten-free and vegan. Our recipes
The benefit of our online academy is the 24/7 are all gluten-free, vegan and soy-free, not
availability. The academy offers two master only for celiacs and vegans, but for everyone.
classes, each of which takes two evenings to Europeans generally read the ingredients
complete. We cover croissants and basic items because they want to know what they are
such as tiramisu, tarts, muffins, chocolate eating.

Pastry Arts 97
What are some of your favorite but we never capture enough flavor from them.
ingredients you use in your baking? In classic pastries, it is very common that a
raspberry cream tastes like cream, butter and
Spain is the largest producer of olive oil, so I am egg, but we are missing that raspberry flavor,
a freak about olive oil. When I travel, I always which is really what we want – something
return with lots of olive oil. I am also a vanilla super fruity and delicious.
freak, which is much more expensive than olive
oil! I also love nuts, and I am very connected to
pistachios, almonds, peanuts and hazelnuts. If I You make a beautiful croissant, which
make a pistachio crema, it must taste a lot like must be one of the hardest things to
pistachio. If I do a raspberry crema, the flavor make vegan. What’s your secret?
needs to be just raspberry, with a little lemon
juice for acidity. I am currently very focused on Croissants usually taste like butter, but a friend
fruit and nuts, which are basic in patisserie. We who is a master boulanger in France told me
tend to include these ingredients in pastries, that croissants are much more complex than
butter alone. Another friend in Spain said the
same thing, and he won best Spanish croissant
twice. He uses honey and brown butter, which
My main goal is to put gives it more flavor. He also mixes yeast and
sourdough to get a more complex flavor in the
vegan food in people’s dough. Even his croissant doesn’t taste like
butter – instead, it is very complex. He told
mouths. me to find another way, which I did by testing
many things to find something tasty. We use a
fat which is very neutral for lamination, but we
incorporate a lot of flavor in the dough. I use
a poolish and add maple syrup from Canada.
Instead of maple syrup, you can use coconut
sugar or any syrup that has a lot of caramel
flavor. I also use vanilla, and I incorporate a lot
of extra-virgin olive oil in my dough. I tested
over 30 olive oils, even blending some. The
best thing about olive oil is that it depends on
the year, altitude, and the variety of the olive.
Picual, Picudo, Royal, Cornicabra, Arbequina
– they all give you different kinds of aromas.
I used Hojiblanca last year for my croissant,
which was slightly spicy, a little bit green,
fruity and bitter. This year I am using a blend of
Hojiblanca and Picual. At the end of this year
when that is finished, I will use Picual which is
very common, from Jaén, to give more flavor
to my dough. So, I created another way to give
flavor to my croissant, instead of relying on
butter or margarine. It took me a long time to
go through the evolution of that product, but in
the end, I got it right.

98 Pastry Arts
 In addition to
everything being
vegan, most of our
products are also
gluten-free. We try
to reduce allergens
as much as we can,
because we want to
be a more inclusive
patisserie.

Pastry Arts 99
 I was excited to see your book The Vegan
Pastry Bible is now available in English.
Did you enjoy the process of writing it?
It was both easy and difficult, because it
happened during COVID. It was easier because
I had more free time to take pictures, but it was
difficult because I couldn’t go to the studio to
take 60% of the photos. But I had more time
to think about the recipes and change them. I
prepared everything at the academy, then gave
the boxes to my photographer, Becky Lawton.
We used masks and gloves, and she sent me
the pictures which showed the evolution of the
book. It was originally done in Spanish and then
translated to English, and there are 100 recipes,
including macarons, creams, fine pastries, cookies
and cakes. I thought about including more fine
pastries, but I decided to make it more about the
basics. It was difficult because the U.S. audience
differs from that of France, Italy or Spain, and we
wanted to please everyone.

What’s next for you?

We want to launch more online courses, which
we are currently preparing. I would love to be
I created another involved in other projects, but we need time. My
main goal is to put vegan food in people’s mouths.
way to give flavor That is my favorite moment in the final buffet of
the masterclass – let’s taste, because it is more
to my croissant, about food than Instagram. You can offer a lot
instead of relying on of theory and make a super nice cake, but if it’s
not tasty, everything else disappears. We remain
butter or margarine. focused on the academy and online courses and
will continue with our R&D. In 2024, I hope to
It took me a long find more time to feed the world.

time to go through
the evolution of that
product, but in the
end, I got it right.

100 Pastry Arts

 CHILLED &
FROZEN PURÉES

Ready-to-use fruits
for pastry,beverage, cuisine
100% fruit or 90% fruit
and 10% pure cane sugar

More and more delicious flavors,

faithfull to the best of fresh fruits

ADVOCATING DELICIOUS, HEALTHY AND RESPONSIBLE FRUIT

is the mission we have set ourselves to inspire our employees, fruit producers, customers and partners, resonating with the aspiration to
eat better and preserve nature. Ponthier’s mission relies on strong, uncompromising commitments based on our history and new goals:

TASTE AGROECOLOGY GASTRONOMY RESPONSIBILITY

Revealing the Developing an ethical Supporting the Instilling a demanding
original taste fruit production sector gastronomic and shared approach
community to CSR

COMMITMENT N.1 Original taste

It is first and foremost about bringing the culture of taste to daily life, the original taste of a fruit that nature gives us if we respect it. It’s about sourcing
exceptional, rare and exclusive fruit, harvested when ripe and processed with care as close as possible to the orchards, as quickly as possible.

COMMITMENT N.2 Creation of the PURE TRACE® label

/kg po TEUR / PROD
0,01mg ur plus de 61 RC
OLLEC UCE
on à 0m RC
cati EU
Sans résidu Eguer
CT

OLL
oléc
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Saldarriaga
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ECTO

de pesticides*
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PRO
*Limite de

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analysées

PURE TRACE
s ou g ht
*Limit

Without pesticide Recinto Piquigua

residue* Ecuador
of qu

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PURE : Means guaranteeing healthy, pesticide residue free TRACE : Means guaranteeing traceability so that gastronomy
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residue free (limit of quantification 0.01mg/kg for more than 610 Ponthier is going much further with the creation of the TRACE label,
molecules analysed) whatever their packaging format. which lists the producer-harvester and the harvest location. In 2022, 26
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Trends

Unveiling the EasyPaint Stencil

A Breakthrough
in Precision and
Creativity
By Maddison Jaggars

Sponsored by Chef Rubber

102 Pastry Arts

 I
looked at the colorful
array of winter-themed
cocoa butter bottles,
transfer sheets and
molds being packed
into boxes and making their
way to the shipping dock at
Chef Rubber headquarters.
Before my very eyes, the
holiday season was here, As a long-time user and advocate of Chef
Rubber products, especially our colored cocoa
earlier than it’s felt in butter, Chef Amado constantly astounds us
previous years. with his creative use of colorants. In recent
years he has been working on developing
an innovative tool that is changing the way
bonbons are decorated. The EasyPaint
Stencil™ is the solution to taping methods and
handmade stencils, allowing chocolate artists
to create beautifully designed chocolate shells
Winter is a time that can make or break a without worrying about time constraints and
business, and pastry chefs will do everything manpower.
they can to stay on top of cutting-edge trends The spark of ignition happened back in
and designs. Finding ways to increase production 2018. Longtime friend and fellow chocolatier
and stay efficient – while maintaining a social Charles Golczynski (a.k.a. “Smitty”) of Mokaya
media approved aesthetic – are all factors that Chocolates in Grand Rapids, Michigan, reached
culinary artists face. It’s no secret that the word out to Chef Amado, asking if he could produce
“labor” is often associated with “shortage” these a custom stencil using his technology at the
days. The search for tools that remedy these university. He had already been in search of a
problems are being researched and developed more efficient way of decorating molds. As an
by master chefs and chocolatiers all over the experienced chocolatier, Luis tried numerous
world. Chef Luis Amado is one of them. design applications and styles of stencils.
Chef Amado’s foray into the culinary world Knowing how time consuming many of them
began at the age of 16, selling churros in the could be, the ‘A-ha!’ moment came when
streets of Guadalajara, Mexico. As a young friend Jason Senatore, who was working at
man, he made the move to the U.S. to pursue the university with Luis, brought him a stencil
an education in culinary arts. In 1992, he made of soft plastic to try. Chef Amado took
graduated from Grand Rapids Community the concept to his friends at Greyas Chocolate
College, and not long after, traveled to Belgium Molds in Turkey, where the development of his
where he worked to develop his knowledge of EasyPaint Stencil™ came to fruition at the end
classical European pastry and chocolate. of 2022.

Pastry Arts 103

 Working with the Greyas Mold team, Chef
Amado drew inspiration for the stencils from
his love of technical drawings and architecture.
From the Fibonacci sequence to simple crisp
geometrics, the goal for Amado was always to
create a stencil that not only produces beautiful
artwork but also saves time for chocolatiers.
The EasyPaint™ Stencil System allows for
consistency at a rapid pace to produce
decorated bonbons, as well as more creativity
without being labor intensive.
Chef Amado believes that the future of
chocolate still resides in the principle that
“People eat with their eyes first.” Chocolatiers For more info visit
want to spend more time not just on the recipe www.chefrubber.com, email inquiries to
formulation, but also on the presentation of info@chefrubber.com or call (702)
their bonbons. A bold statement will come 614-9350, and follow on Instagram at
from colored cocoa butters used in the form of @chefrubber or @luisamado777.
patterns and textures. Chef Amado is currently
working with the Chef Rubber and Greyas
teams on creating more unique stencils for the
industry. One thing is for certain when it comes
to Chef Luis Amado, we can expect to see more
innovations on the horizon.

Photos by Jason Senatore Photography,

courtesy of the Luis Amado
Chocolate Academy.

104 Pastry Arts

 more

R E S P ECT
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for People and

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over the long term – and the future of its workers too.
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Cottage Life

Expanding Your
Cottage Bakery
Product Line
By Deanna Martinez-Bey

106 Pastry Arts

 A
re you ready
to get more
creative with
the items you
sell through your cottage
bakery? Are you tired of
selling standard items such
as cakes, cookies, cupcakes,
• Pita bread
and brownies? I am here • Pull-apart bread, both sweet and savory
to help get your creative • Naan
juices flowing. Let’s take a • Garlic knots
look at a variety of options • Soft pretzels
• Breadsticks
that we can bake/create as
• Sub rolls
cottage bakers. As always, • Babka, sweet or savory
check the cottage laws in
your state before offering Jams
new products, but check out Jam goes perfectly with homemade bread! And
these ideas below: even if you have no interest in selling bread,
you can still provide delicious, homemade,
chemical-free jams for your customers. Take
any fruit that is in season and create a delicious
jam. Jam is easy to make. You only need fruit,
Breads sugar, pectin, and glass jars with lids.

There are many more options than your Here are some jam flavor ideas for each season:
standard bread, like white, sourdough, wheat,
rye, or pumpernickel. Try one or more of
the following to spice up your bread-baking Summer/Spring
options: • Strawberry/Banana Strawberry
• Blueberry
• Bagels • Cherry
• Cornbread
• Biscuits Fall/Winter
• Focaccia • Apple cinnamon
• Dinner rolls • Cranberry
• Croissants • Pumpkin Butter

Pastry Arts 107

Spices Trail Mix
Create spice mixes! Get creative and create Who doesn’t love a tasty trail mix? Put
spice mixes for cooking, baking, or even to use together a variety of sweet and savory mix
on popcorn. For example: Create your own options. Package them in zip-top bags and
chai sugar by mixing white sugar, cinnamon, adorn them with a sticker decorated with your
cloves and ginger. You can also include anise logo. Customers will love it! Trail mix typically
and cardamon. This spice mix would be great contains nuts, seeds, dried fruit, and fun treats
over popped popcorn or in baking recipes. such as chocolates, popcorn, or pretzels.

Candies Nut Options:

• Peanuts
• Homemade chocolates make great gifts
• Walnuts
and can be a popular seller during the
holidays. • Pistachios
• Hot cocoa bombs have been super-popular • Cashews
over the past several years and can be • Pecans
lucrative for making and selling. • Hazelnuts
• Homemade Reese’s peanut butter cups are • Almonds
another great idea. • Macadamia
• Hard candy such as lollipops or chewy
caramels is also a tasty idea for making and
Seed Options:
selling candy.
• Pumpkin
• English toffee is another candy option. It is
easy to prepare and delicious to eat. • Sunflower
• Sesame
• Pine Nuts

108 Pastry Arts

Dried Fruit: people say, “I can never eat just one!” Create
• Raisins your own potato chips with unique flavor/
• Cranberries spice combinations.
• Shredded Coconut
• Cherries Flavor Ideas:
• Blueberries • Sea Salt
• Apples • Celery Salt
• Bananas • Garlic Powder
• Mangoes • Onion Powder
• Apricots • Cayenne
• BBQ Seasoning
Fun Treats: • Ranch
• Chocolate Chips • Cinnamon Sugar
• White Chocolate Chips • Parmesan
• Peanut Butter Chips
• Butterscotch Chips Owning a cottage bakery does not mean you
are limited to the basics. Get creative, think
• Chocolate Chunks outside the box, and draw in new customers
• Candy Bars, cut into small pieces with fresh ideas.
• Popcorn
• Pretzels
• M&M’s
Deanna Martinez-Bey is a cottage baker,
• Cereal baking class instructor, content creator, and
multi-genre author. With fifteen published books
Potato Chips under her belt and a certified cottage bakery,
everything she does revolves around food and
Have you ever met a person who hates potato writing in one way, shape or form.
chips? Chances are you have not. Usually, www.deannasrecipebox.com

Pastry Arts 109

Profile

Philip
Khoury
A Visionary
Pastry Chef
Crafting a
New Way
to Bake
By Shawn Wenner

110 Pastry Arts

P
hilip Khoury is a pastry chef who is changing the way we
think about desserts. He is known for his innovative and
delicious plant-based creations, which are inspired by his
Lebanese heritage and his passion for sustainability. Khoury’s
path to pastry artistry was a winding journey. He began
his career as a communications designer, but after a religious experience
eating a pastry in Paris, he decided to switch gears. He trained at some of
the most prestigious establishments in the world, including Quay, Adriano
Zumbo, and Harrods.
In recent years, Khoury has turned his focus to
plant-based desserts. He believes that this is
the future of pastry, and he is dedicated to
creating recipes that are as delicious and
indulgent as traditional desserts, but
without the environmental impact.
Khoury is also passionate about
using his platform to promote social
justice and sustainability. He is a
vocal advocate for animal rights and
environmental protection, and he
believes that food can be a powerful
force for change.
In his upcoming book, A New Way
to Bake (Hardi Grant, 2023), Khoury
shares his recipes and techniques for
creating plant-based desserts that are both
delicious and sustainable. He also shares his
insights on the future of pastry and the role
that food can play in creating a better world. In
the following interview, Khoury shares more about his
journey to becoming a pastry chef, his passion for plant-based
desserts, and his vision for the future of the industry.

Pastry Arts 111

 The Q&A with high welfare, but this was not the norm.
The closer I got to seeing how food is made
and understanding the immense volume – and
seeing how eggs and dairy are produced and
What initially ignited your how intensive it is – I knew we needed more
options. When you realize the industrial scale of
passion for pastry?
food production, it’s not these really nice places
I was a young person on a pilgrimage to Paris that are concerning, but the rest of it. It made me
— the spiritual homeland of patisserie. I was question everything. Also realizing that there
sitting on a park bench around the corner from were very minimal standards for high-quality
Pierre Hermé’s Saint-Sulpice store, having a plant-based options, I started experimenting,
religious experience eating his 2000 Feuilles. because it was a huge professional challenge.
In that moment I felt a calling to pastry, even
though I was completing my communication What technical hurdles did you
design degree. When I got back to Australia, I encounter when you started focusing
started training as a pastry chef.
on plant-based desserts?

At what point did you begin to My specific focus is in using basic ingredients
gravitate towards plant-based that are globally available and naturally plant
based. I believe that some of our most prized
desserts, and what motivated this
naturally plant based ingredients have immense
shift? functionality that have been overlooked.
I had always been lucky to work in really nice The process was not linear, and I had to keep
places with incredible ingredients, produced revisiting recipes with innovations that revealed
themselves along the way. So many existing
recipes rely on substitution of what I would
consider standardized, high-quality ingredients
with inferior manufactured substitutes. For my
approach, I needed to find new ways for high-
quality, naturally plant-based ingredients to
shine in new formulas.

How do you strike a balance between

creating sustainable plant-based
desserts and ensuring they’re as
indulgent as traditional ones?
We have an incredible history and heritage of
incredible work that’s been done in traditional
pastry. We know how important textures are in
releasing flavor. Yes, there are some differences
between traditional pastry and plant-based
options, but they can also be better, cleaner
and more interesting. I think it’s such a new
area, a lot of knowledge was previously lacking.

112 Pastry Arts

 Throughout your professional
journey, how have stints at renowned
establishments like Quay, Adriano
Zumbo, and Harrods shaped your
I believe that some pastry-making approach?
of our most prized I’ve been lucky to have secured some
amazing experiences that have been looked
naturally plant based to for leadership in innovation, execution and
ingredients have experience. I’ve learned that you need to make
something incredible, not just to tick boxes, but
immense functionality to explore passion and creativity. Customers
can see that. The best creations aren’t always
that have been briefed in, but come from a very meaningful
place of creative exploration which has a
overlooked. beautiful power to inspire that resonates with
people.

Pastry Arts 113

 teamwork is incredible. Having trusted people
and partners on your team that give honest
feedback to push your work to the next level.
I also hate rushing the process for the sake of
ticking a box. It should be done right and push
a conceptual boundary. Sadly, that’s more and
more difficult with the workplace or social
media demanding a high volume of output.

Which fundamental principles guide

you to ensure that your desserts
consistently deliver on taste, texture,
and artistry?
Concept and artistry make you pick a dessert,
and taste and flavor is explored through texture.
They work in tandem to create a wonderful
experience.

Your just-released book, A New

Way to Bake, promises to offer fresh
perspectives on cakes and desserts.
Could you provide a glimpse into
some of the standout techniques or
ingredients you’ve featured?
Lots of reimagined
classics! Techniques
and formulations
Are there one or two pivotal lessons that allow some
you learned working at those of our most prized
places that you believe others could ingredients shine
incorporate into their own careers? in exciting ways.
Think beautiful
I’ve always viewed my career through a longer- madeleines, flaky
term lens. I was so hungry to learn that I olive oil pastry,
did not care about money. I sacrificed a lot, whipped cream,
including key family moments, a social life. I chocolate chantilly
never chased a high salary, otherwise I might mousse, ‘vrioche’
have not taken some amazing opportunities (an olive oil and
that one after another unlocked bigger and sweet potato
brighter opportunities. The perfect product brioche) and lots of
brief doesn’t exist. When being creative, just classic bakes like chocolate chip cookies,
try! Don’t be afraid of your first attempt not all made with simple recipes and accessible,
being amazing. It rarely is. Also, the value of high-quality ingredients.

114 Pastry Arts

Concept and artistry make you pick a
dessert, and taste and flavor is explored
through texture. They work in tandem
to create a wonderful experience.

Pastry Arts 115

How do you envision your book
inspiring or empowering its readers?
I hope it becomes a reference that arms
My specific focus
professionals and home bakers alike with an is in using basic
expanded repertoire and an outlook. Familiar
ingredients, lots of new recipes for many ingredients that are
classics. Every recipe contains a tutorial video
which I painstakingly recorded in my kitchen globally available
and which I wanted to share without limitations,
so people see a recipe and feel totally reassured and naturally plant
that the results are within reach, whatever their
level of experience.
based.

Is there a recipe from the book that

holds special significance for you, and
can you share the story behind its Could you shed light on the underlying
importance? message of your book’s title, A New
Way to Bake, and what you hope it
Maamoul is a traditional Middle-Eastern filled communicates to your audience?
biscuit (dates, walnut or pistachio). My heritage
is Lebanese, and as a kid I always thought they The title is a statement, but I never want to force
were a traditional Easter bake. As I got older, my views on people. Readers can make their
I found out they are enjoyed by Christians at own minds up. It’s not the best way, not the
Easter, Muslims at Eid and Jews at Purim. I only way, it’s more new ways. I’m all about new
think this shows the power of food to unite horizons and optimism. All the ingredients will
us. We need to focus on the humanity that we be familiar, but many recipes and techniques
share in common rather than the little things will be totally new, so in many ways it’s a new
that divide us. way to bake (naturally plant-based).

116 Pastry Arts

From your perspective, how I’ve learned that you
might the entire culinary need to make something
industry evolve towards
sustainable and plant-based incredible, not just to
methods without sacrificing
taste and quality? tick boxes, but to explore
We need to look back at all our passion and creativity.
wonderful roots. Our grandparents
and great grandparents ate very
differently and likely for good
reasons. There’s an immense amount
of heritage at risk of being lost due to
globalization that holds the secrets
to how we will survive into the future
as climate starts to heavily affect all
types of agriculture (I recommend
reading Eating to Extinction by Dan
Saladino, which has an underlying
message of hope). We need to shift
our focus from so many animal-based
products to more plants.

What legacy or influence

do you hope your work
will imprint on the realm of
pastry artistry and broader
perceptions of desserts?
We are really on the edge of some
exciting innovation within our
industry. It’s just the very beginning
and so many doors will open to new
and beautiful experiences. I hope we
can be guided by the past and look
into the future with compassion and
open-mindedness. I hope people get
to explore and enjoy delicious bakes
without compromise.

Photos by Matt Russell

Pastry Arts 117

Sourdough Secrets

The Foodbod Sourdough

Master
Recipe
By Elaine Boddy

118 Pastry Arts

H
i, I’m Elaine from Foodbod Sourdough, sourdough
baker, teacher and cookbook writer, and I’m here
to show you the simplest way to make sourdough.
In the previous issue I shared how to make a
sourdough starter from scratch, if you made yours and now
fancy a go at making a loaf, this is my master recipe, the
simplest way you’ll ever find to make sourdough.

If you already have an existing starter, you can use that, too!
And whatever flour you used to make your starter with, you
can use it to make any loaf – the flour in your starter does not
need to match the flour in your dough.

You can find more details, answers and guidance in my book,

The Sourdough Whisperer.

Pastry Arts 119

Sourdough
Equipment

Master
*Your starter, fed and ready to go.

*Good-quality strong white bread flour –

I recommend using King Arthur Bread or
Matthews Cotswold Strong White Bread flour.

Recipe
You can use other flours to make sourdough,
but if this is your first time making it, or using
my recipe, I recommend starting with these
flours.

*Digital scale: weighing the ingredients rather

than using cups makes a real difference.
Yield: 1 standard loaf
*Large mixing bowl, ideally 9ʺ (23 cm) diameter
Time: 24 hours from the time to feed and 3.5ʺ (9 cm) deep – this is the exact size
your starter to the baked loaf; bowl that I use and helps to measure if the
hands on time: 30 minutes. dough is fully proved. If your dough only just
fills the bowl and has a good structure, it’s well
proved.

120 Pastry Arts

*Bowl scraper: always useful for scraping the it can be manipulated for your household
bowl down. of which there are more details in my book
and on my site, but for now, I recommend
*Shower cap, or bowl cover of your choice: starting around this time. Mix all of the
the dough needs to be covered as it proved to ingredients together* in your bowl to make
prevent it from getting a dry heavy surface. a rough dough, with no dry flour showing.
Cover the bowl with a shower cap or cover,
*Banneton, 8.5ʺ (21.5 cm) diameter/500-750g and leave it for around 2 hours on the
brotform banneton prepared with rice flour, kitchen counter.
the perfect thing for giving the dough shape
during its second prove. *Return the rest of your starter to the fridge
until you need it again, with the lid firmly
*Parchment paper: this needs to be good quality fitted.
parchment paper rather than waxed paper (that
will stick like glue to the baked loaf). 2. After the rest time, perform the first set of
pulls and folds on the dough to build up its
*Lame or razor blade: scoring the dough before structure. To do this, pick up a small handful
baking helps the loaf to grow as it bakes in of dough from one side of the bowl, using
an even way. The blade needs to be thin and your thumb and two forefingers to grab
sharp which is why a razor blade is best, and a portion, lift it, stretch it and fold it over
the ‘lame’ is merely a holder for the blade, and the rest of the dough to the other side
safer than holding a blade. of the bowl, turn the bowl a few degrees
and repeat the process, lift and fold, turn
*Enamel roaster pan, 10.26ʺ (26 cm) diameter, the bowl, lift and fold, turn the bowl, and
or other baking pan with a lid; I use lightweight, continue until the dough comes together
inexpensive enamel pans to bake my loaves, into a smooth-ish ball. Then stop. Cover the
they heat up quickly, cool down quickly and bowl again and leave it out on the kitchen
don’t weigh (or cost) anywhere near as much counter. You can now leave the bowl
as cast iron. By baking in a covered pan it again for an hour, or half an hour,
encourages the dough to grow without needing whatever works for you.
to add steam to the oven.
3. Over the next few hours,
at intervals that suit you,
Ingredients perform 3 more sets of
the lifting and folding
• 
50 g active starter, fed beforehand and action, just enough to
given time to grow and respond bring the dough into a
ball; this is the dough
• 
350 g water (use whatever water you use in
telling you when it is
your starter; I use tap water)
time to stop. After each
• 
500 g strong white bread flour (as described set, cover the bowl and
above) leave it on the counter doing
• 
7 g salt, or to taste (I use very little salt in the final set before going to bed.
my loaves, you may want more)
*You do not need to set a timer, the intervals
1. I always begin making my dough between don’t need to be done at exact times apart, do
4-5 p.m.; this is my standard timetable, and it whenever you’re passing the bowl.

Pastry Arts 121

4. Leave the covered bowl on the counter turn it all over together to turn the dough
overnight to prove. I typically let my dough out and into the pan.
prove, untouched, for 8 to 10 hours at
temperatures of 64-68°F (18-20°C). If it is 8. With a lame or a clean razor blade, score
colder where you are, it may take longer; the dome of the dough cleanly and firmly,
if it’s warmer, you will need to make at a depth of 0.2ʺ-0.4ʺ (0.5-1.0 cm).
amendments to the dough at the start of
the process. There’s more about this on my
site and in my book. 9. Bake the loaf: if you preheated the oven,
bake for 50 minutes, keeping the lid on for
the entire time. If you are baking from a
5. Next morning, you should have a bowl cold start, place the pan in the cold oven,
full of grown dough, look for it to double turn the temperature to 428°F (220°C),
in size before moving to the next stage, or with fan, or 464°F (240°C), no fan, and
if you are using a bowl the same size and bake for a total of 55 minutes from the time
make as mine, allow your dough to grow that you placed the pan in the cold oven,
and fill the bowl so that the surface is an with the lid on the entire time. After 50 to
inch below the edge. To place the dough 55 minutes, remove from the oven. Open
into the banneton, do a series of lifts and the lid to check the loaf; if it’s looking pale,
folds on the dough and bring it into a firm place it back in the hot oven, minus the lid,
ball again, then lift it into your banneton, for 5 to 10 minutes to brown the loaf to
placing it smooth side down. Make sure the color of your choice. Once the loaf is
that at this point you pull the dough tightly golden brown, carefully remove it from the
into a firm ball, don’t be scared of being firm pan, remove the parchment paper from the
with the dough, if you are too gentle with bottom, and place the loaf on a wire rack.
it, it won’t have the shape and structure
it needs. Cover the banneton with the
10. Leave the loaf on its rack to cool completely.
same cover that you previously used for
Whichever route you take to bake your
the dough, and place it in the fridge for a
loaf, once it is cooling, wait at least 1 hour
minimum of 3 hours, and up to a maximum
before you slice into it. If you cut into the
of 24, to allow the dough to firm up and
loaf too soon, it will still be cooking, plus
develop flavor.
steam will fill all those carefully crafted
holes and make the bread gummy; if you
6. When you are ready to bake, you have two can wait a few hours, it really is worth it.
choices: to preheat the oven or bake from Slather with butter and enjoy!
a cold start. If you choose to preheat the
oven, preheat it to 428°F (220°C), with fan,
or 464°F (240°C), no fan. Have an enamel
roaster or pan of your choice ready, plus
good quality parchment paper.
For more tips, guidance and troubleshooting,
7. Remove the cover from the banneton, plus everything you could ever need to know
place your parchment paper over the top about making sourdough as simply as possible,
of it, place the pan upside down over the check out my book, The Sourdough Whisperer.
top of them both. With one hand under the For more help and advice, feel free to contact me
banneton and one hand on top of the pan, directly at elaine@foodbodsourdough.com.

122 Pastry Arts

 THINK COCOA. THINK DEZAAN.
deZaan’s collection of cocoa powders for chefs and artisans showcase the full spectrum of
what cocoa powder can deliver with its complex range of flavors and colors. Cocoa powder
is a unique and special ingredient and we aim to inspire your creativity with our range.
Trends

The Great
Sprinkle
Explosion
By AnnMarie Mattila

124 Pastry Arts

S
tep into any
supply, specialty
or craft store,
and you are
bound to find
one thing they have in
common: new sprinkle
blends. Gone are the days of
simple rainbow nonpareils.
In their place, you’ll find
glittering combinations of
unique shapes, sizes and
colors. But where did this
great sprinkle sector come
from? Turns out, it started
with bakers themselves, At this point, it might be difficult to picture the
crafty entrepreneurs who put simplistic sprinkle selection of a decade ago:
single colors, single types, and maybe a holiday
their skills and talents into mixture here and there. Demand from bakers
developing new brands and themselves was the driving force behind the
newer mixes and seasonal assortments. Take
products. And they aren’t “self-professed sprinkle junkie” Rosie Alyea, a
just making sprinkles. They’re baker, blogger and cookbook author, who is
building sprinkle empires, now owner and CSO (Chief Sprinkle Officer)
of Sweetapolita. While writing her first book,
one little jimmy at a time. she ordered every sprinkle she could find and
created her own mixes. “I was truly inspired
and realized that this magical mix of sprinkles
belonged all over a cake as the focal point. I
ran with it and created a coordinating rainbow
cake inside and adorned the entire cake with
the colorful bits, stirring up a vision that I
could create countless mixes (now referred
to as Sprinkle Medleys) that would encourage
creativity, approachable cake decorating and
childlike joy among anyone who enjoys being
in the kitchen.” In just a three months in 2015,
she launched her first 12 medleys and hasn’t
looked back.

Pastry Arts 125

 Business-minded bakers like Alyea identified Now that sprinkles are everywhere, is it
a hole in the decorating market, particularly even possible to break into a saturated market?
with home enthusiasts who are inspired by The answer is yes, and the reason is what
the bright, colorful cakes and cookies on social businesses focus on regardless of their product:
media. Others are responding to demands for differentiation and innovation. For owners
more natural ingredients, both from customers Surrae Shield and Rachel Madden of River Road
and governments. For Rich Myers of Get Baked, Sprinkle Co., it is hand-dyed naturally colored
a popular British bakery, it was what he dubbed sprinkles. “We focus on difficult to create
as “Sprinklegate” that forced him to create his shades, creative color combinations, and on
own line. In 2021, regulators informed him the sprinkles that look like as much time went into
use of sprinkles he imported from the United them as the bakes that they’re topping,” explains
States were illegal due to a particular colorant. Shield. “Bakers and treat makers put so much
It was either choose an inferior but approved time, energy, and creativity into creating their
sprinkle brand on his bestselling cakes and works of art, and we take the same approach
cookies or develop his own. “I am extremely when dyeing and mixing our blends.” From a
passionate about sprinkles,” he explains. And career in the grocery baking industry, Shield
so, Expen$ive sprinkles were born a few developed a deep understanding of customer
months later. Not only does he use them in his service and responding to demand. “That’s the
shop, but what he calls “the world’s greatest best part about dyeing the sprinkles ourselves.
sprinkles” are available online for purchase, We can hop on microtrends, throw together
with their own cult following thanks to social a cool idea to see if it works, and do limited
media covering the controversy. releases.”

126 Pastry Arts

 out into adjacent items, such as food coloring,
glitter and more.” Once a line of consumer
packaged goods is created and a brand is built,
expanding to other products is a natural next
step.
Another key to staying competitive in a
trending business sector is staying true to your
customer base. “We are so grateful for our
loyal community that has been with me since
the blogging days, and we work very hard to
set ourselves apart. Our core competencies are
quality, selection, customer service and brand
experience—the Sweetapolita Sprinkle Squad
is committed to providing a magical experience
from start to finish,” Alyea explains. Shield
has a similar approach. “We stay in our
lane, keep the joy alive in what we
do, support other makers where
we can, and I believe that our
community recognizes that.”
Finding a small niche inside
an already niche market,
building a customer base,
constantly innovating: These
Similarly, Sweetapolita are concepts shared among
is constantly innovating these entrepreneurs. Within a few
and releasing new products. months, all these sprinkle specialists
“The possibilities are endless! were able to bring unique products to
Our community looks to us for market and build new businesses. So are
inspiration, and it is our mission to never you ready to join the great sprinkle explosion?
disappoint. We create approximately 20 new You have to jump in fast while the market is
products for every season, with a flurry of new hot, but if you have the passion, you can make
items around Halloween and the holidays,” it work. Take it from Alyea: “It’s amazing how
notes Alyea. And of course, it doesn’t stop fast you can work when you are taken over by
at sprinkles. “We are excited to be branching unbridled inspiration!”

Pastry Arts 127

Teacher Feature

Melissa
Walnock
CHE, Associate Professor, Baking
and Pastry Arts, The Culinary
Institute of America,
Hyde Park, NY

128 Pastry Arts

M
elissa Walnock’s love for the culinary arts began in
her childhood, cooking at home in New Jersey for her
father and her two older brothers when her mother,
who was a nurse, was working the night shift. This
passion gradually evolved into a career path, and Walnock headed
to The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY to study her
craft. More than a decade later she returned to the CIA, this time as
a teacher. Today, Walnock is an Associate Professor in Baking and
Pastry Arts at the school, where she heads up the student-run Apple
Pie Bakery Café, a position she’s held for the past seven years. Before
she became a teacher, Walnock honed her pastry skills at some of the
best restaurants in the U.S., including The French Laundry, Tabla, Jean-
Georges, Union Square Café and The Breakers. In this interview, she
reflects on her career, the joy she gets from teaching, and how the
school has evolved since her days as a student.

Pastry Arts 129

 The Q&A

You spent over a decade working in

the pastry departments of some of the
best restaurants in the country. Why
did you decide to pursue a career in
teaching?
After attending the CIA as a student, I had
always said I was going to go back as an
instructor, I just didn’t have a specific timeline
for that. While I was building my career, I was
also building a life for myself outside of work.
Those two unfortunately collided. I went
through a divorce just around the same time I
had my son and that flipped my world upside-
down. I kept working in restaurants with the
long hours, nights, weekends and holidays and
I realized I was missing out on these milestones
with my son. So, it was time to make a change
and there was not even a question that I
needed to be back at the CIA. Not only could
I achieve the work-life balance I needed, but I
was able to share my knowledge with the next
generation of pastry chefs, all while continuing
to learn from some of the best chefs in our
field. It was a win-win!

130 Pastry Arts

 You received an Associates of
Pastry Arts as well as a Bachelors of
Professional Studies from the CIA. Tell
us about that experience, and how it
laid the foundation for your career first
as a pastry chef and then as a teacher.
Getting my Associates Degree from the CIA
was the best decision I could have made to
start my career. I knew that I wanted to be a
pastry chef, but I had very little knowledge
about the skill set I needed. This was back
before Instagram and Tik Tok, outlets where
you could at least get some tutorials online.
I was a blank slate. Little to no skill, and zero
idea about what I truly wanted to do once I
graduated. The beauty of the CIA is that you
What are some of the things you can not only focus just on baking and pastry,
learned while working in restaurant but you are also able to see A LOT. I was able
kitchens that you try to impart to your to work with bread, pastry, cakes, chocolates
students now? and plated desserts, and I was one of the first
few classes to go through the Apple Pie Café.
The most important thing I try to tell my In the middle of all of this, I was able to go on
students is that everything is going to be ok. It’s my externship and have a real-life experience
hard as a young cook to get started with a lot in a pastry kitchen. By the time I graduated,
of confidence, especially in kitchens like Daniel, I had so much more knowledge than when I
Per Se or Crown Shy. I remember back when started at the CIA, and I felt confident to start
I was young, and I used to let the pressure of my career. My bachelor’s degree came into play
the kitchen and the chef get to me. I certainly more when I returned to the CIA as a faculty
had my moments of crying in the walk-in. I member. It gave me a better understanding of
realized after a few years and a few good cries the educational system and how to approach
that I was getting in my own way by letting this students not only with recipes and demos, but
pressure get to me. I kind of trained myself to also with a teacher’s perspective.
shut out the anxiety and negativity and just
focus on what I can learn that would make me
a better chef. I think it’s really important to
impart this to my students. If they can go out
into the industry and know that they need to
go through some triumphs as well as failures
in order to learn and get better, and also know
that everything is going to be alright, I feel like
they will be more empowered. I also let them
know that everyone makes mistakes. They do.
I do. Any chef in any kitchen does. This is how
we get better. I always tell my students, I can
tell you how to do things right because I’ve
done everything wrong at least once.

Pastry Arts 131

What are some of the changes you see What courses are you currently
in the curriculum and student body teaching? Any special projects you are
from when you were a student? working on with your students?
There have been so many amazing changes to I am currently the Chef Instructor at the Apple
the curriculum! First, we have a more traditional Pie Bakery Café. I have been in the café for
college schedule, which is more appealing to seven years, and have been the only female chef
students. Students are also able to choose their to have this position since the bakery opened
schedules each semester. In addition, there are almost 23 years ago. I love this role. Not only do
more bachelor’s concentrations for students to I get to create the bread and pastry menu, but
choose from (Advanced Pastry in CA, Advanced I am also able to work more with savory food,
Wine/Beverage, Asian Cuisine in Singapore, as well. This class is also in the final semester
Beverage Production and Service, Farm to before students graduate from their associates
Table, Japanese Cuisine, Culinary Science, etc.). program. Once my students complete their
We also now offer master’s degree programs, tasks for the day in order for the café to open,
as well (Food Business, Wine and Beverage I allow them to work on a variety of projects
Management, Sustainable Food Systems). of their choosing. It’s important to me that
Our students have an extensive educational my students are given an opportunity to work
program specifically geared toward their independently on putting a project together
passion. from concept, to food order, to packing, to final
As far as the student body goes, we have product. When they are able to do this, using
seen a huge jump in the male-to-female ratio, me as a mentor, the students are able to gain
and a great increase in diversity. Our campus a sense of confidence in their abilities before
has students from 30 to 40 different countries going out into the real world. We work on retail
at any given time, and the male-to-female items, macarons, wedding and birthday cakes,
ration is just about equal. Our industry is a very molded chocolates, etc.
different landscape than it was when I was a Other than the Apple Pie Bakery Café, I
young pastry cook, and it’s clearly reflected on have taught Baking and Pastry Fundamentals,
our campus. Baking for Culinary, Restaurant Operations in
American Bounty and Food Enthusiast classes.

132 Pastry Arts

What are some of the most gratifying How would you characterize your
things about teaching pastry at the pastry style, and what are some
CIA? ingredients and flavors that you’re
To be honest, the most gratifying thing is to see currently exploring with your
a student have their “ah-ha” moment, whether students?
that be the first time they perfectly apply My desserts are approachable with a twist. I
buttercream to a cake, pipe 100 macarons always remind myself that I am cooking for my
that are all the same size, or create their own guests, not just for myself. But I do try to leave
pastry that I sell in the café as a special. It’s my mark on things. I want guests to come into
amazing just to be there and watch a student my space and find things they can identify with,
use the techniques I’ve shown either in flavors or nostalgia. Things like apple
them, and they finally caramel in the fall or strawberry shortcake
get it. Not only is it a in summer. But then I will mess around
bit of an affirmation with it a bit. Adding green cardamom
that my teaching is to a blueberry dessert. Pickled
working, but what strawberries to a shortcake.
a difference in Grapefruit with tarragon and white
confidence for a chocolate. I worked at Tabla as the
student to work pastry chef for three years, and I
at something until was able to learn so much about
they succeed. spice. I am a huge fan of fresh
They become less ginger, tamarind, chilies and saffron.
fearful of trying I try to incorporate these in with other
new techniques and flavor profiles that are approachable
growing as a chef. It is in the hopes that someone will try them,
also incredible to be working and it will be a new experience. None of the
with such amazing chefs. If I have a designs of my pastries are traditional. I am
question about anything, I simply call another always looking for new trends and techniques,
chef and talk it through. So much knowledge is not only to make myself better, but to also keep
just a phone call away. my students in the know.

Pastry Arts 133

 What are some of the most important
techniques and ideas that you want
your students to learn and retain?
There are two main things I want my students
to learn. The first is hand skills. This applies to
so many things. Right now, there are so many
molds and tools available to make a pastry look
perfect – quenelle molds, tempering machines
for chocolates, entremets molds, molds for
éclairs, etc. But these are expensive. And
although we are lucky enough to have them
at the CIA, these may not be available to my
students once they are in the industry. They
will need to know how to pipe pâte à choux
properly, temper chocolate with the seeding
method or by tabling, make a mousse that
is light and airy, make perfectly shaped tart
shells and correctly develop gluten in breads.
Knowing how to make these things by hand –
without relying on equipment – my students
will know how to create brand new pastries
throughout their career. This comes from
repetition. Putting the work in. The other thing
I would like my students to take with them is
the mantra to ‘never be done learning’. There is
constant creativeness and advancement in this
industry, and we all need to keep pushing to
continue to learn and grow. Without it, you will
grow bored and eventually lose your passion.
Never settle.

134 Pastry Arts

 PRODU
PCREO
D D
I NU LCA E
T ID
N AI N
M EL
RAI CTAI N A M E R I C A

FROM THE ORIGIN

FROM THE ORIGIN
Latin American
Latin
origin
American
ingredients origin ingredients

REDUCED
REDUCED
CARBON
CARBON
FOOTPRINT
FOOTPRINT
Mapping our emissions
Mapping to lower our carbon
our emissions to loweroutput
our carbon output
through our entire value
through our chain;
entirepurchasing
value chain; purchasing
ingredients locally.
ingredients locally.

LOCAL LOCAL
PRODUCTION
PRODUCTION
We produce
We produce
locally, in order
locally,
to keep
in added
ordervalue
to keep added value
in the country:
in the Know
country:How, Technology,
Know How, Taxes,
Technology, Taxes,
Highly qualified
Highly
positions.
qualified positions.

SCALING
SCALING
IMPACT IMPACT
THROUGH THROUGH
SUSTAINABILITY
SUSTAINABILITY
INITIATIVES
INITIATIVES
Our
Ouralliances
alliances
with communities
with communities
are focused are
on creating
focused responsible
on creating responsible
projects
projects with with
a positive
a positive
social, environmental
social, environmental
and economic impact.
and economic impact.

ALLIANCES ALLIANCES
We are focused
Weon are
generating
focused alliances
on generating alliances
with farmerswith
& communities
farmers by & working
communities by working
in eliminating intermediaries.
in eliminating intermediaries.

ACADEMICACADEMIC
ALLIANCES ALLIANCES
We promote
We promote
knowledge knowledge
exchange through
exchange
events, workshops,
through events,
courses and
workshops, courses and
projects
projects
with localwith
and international
local and Universities
internationaland Institutes,
Universities
with theand Institutes, with the
objective
objective
of supporting
of supporting
the formationthe
of professionals
formation that of professionals
will too promote that will too promote
positive
positive
changeschanges
in the world.
inAlso,
the these
world.alliances
Also,allow
these
us to
alliances
deepen our allow us to deepen our
knowledge inknowledge
Sustainability,in
R&DSustainability,
and Gastronomy.R&D and Gastronomy.

L A T I N LAA
MTEIRNI C A
ANMI E
NGRRI E
CDAI ENN TI SN G R E D I E N T S
Local harvests by local
Local
smallharvests
farmers. by local small farmers.

CACAO CACAO
Our chocolatesOur
are created
chocolates
exclusively
arewith
created exclusively with
Latin AmericanLatin
fine aroma
American
cacao from:
fine aroma cacao from:
Ecuador, Peru and
Ecuador,
The Dominican
Peru and
Republic.
The Dominican Republic.

MILK
Whole milk from the Andes Mountains
Whole milk from t

PANELA PANELA
Unrefined whole cane
Unrefined
sugar obtained
whole from
cane
the coastal
sugar obtained from the coastal
plains of Latin America. plains of Latin America.

ANDEANANDEAN
CORN CORN
We have rediscovered
We have this
rediscovered
ancestral grain by
this
incorporating
ancestralit grain
to one by incorporating it to one
of our most innovative
of our most
recipes.
innovative
Produced by recipes.
and purchased
Produced
from by and purchased from
Ecuadorian producers.
Ecuadorian NON producers.
GMO Andean corn.NON GMO Andean corn.

04
04 www.republicadelcacao.com www.republicadelcacao.com
Recipe

Hazelnut,
Saffron &
Chocolate
Entremet
By Chef Ruchit Harneja

Sponsored by Ghirardelli
136 Pastry Arts
T
his indulgent temperature, add the dry ingredients. Pour
into an 8ʺ (20 cm) round cake ring. Bake at
cake harmonizes 338°F (170°C) for about 20 minutes. Cool
the richness at room temperature for 2 hours.
of Ghirardelli 2. Chill the cake in refrigerator for at least 12
hours.
chocolate with the
alluring charm of saffron. A dark Saffron Simple Syrup
chocolate mud cake is layered
with a black pepper cremeux • 
100 g water
• 
100 g granulated sugar
and a chocolate-saffron mousse,
• 
A few threads of saffron
with hazelnut dragées and
a praline croustillant adding 1. In a small saucepan, combine the water and
texture and crunch. sugar. Heat over medium-high heat, stirring
occasionally, until the sugar dissolves
completely and the mixture comes to a
gentle boil. Add the saffron threads to
Yield: one 9ʺ (23 cm) entremet the saucepan and reduce the heat to low.
Let it simmer for about 5 minutes, stirring
occasionally to infuse the saffron flavor into
the syrup.
2. Remove the saucepan from heat and allow
the syrup to cool completely.
Chocolate Mud Cake
• 180 g granulated sugar
• 150 g water
• 20 g glucose syrup
• 
60 g Ghirardelli Dark Coating Wafers
• 120 g unsalted butter
• 2 large eggs
• 
135 g all-purpose flour
• 
15 g Ghirardelli Majestic Premium Cocoa
Powder
• 
4 g baking soda

1. Boil the sugar, water and glucose together

in a saucepan. Stir in dark coating wafers
and butter. Put in a stand mixer fitted with
the whisk attachment and whisk until the
temperature cools down a bit. Mix in the
eggs one by one. Once the mixture is at room

Pastry Arts 137

 Hazelnut Dragées
• 75 g granulated sugar
• 25 g water
• 225 g hazelnuts
• 25 g unsalted butter
• 
75 g Ghirardelli Dark Coating Wafers
• 
20 g Ghirardelli Majestic Premium Cocoa
Powder

1. Boil the sugar and water together in a heavy-

bottomed pan. Add the hazelnuts and cook
until the sugar starts to crystallize on top of
the nuts. Remove from the heat and place in
a pre-heated oven at 356°F (180°C) for 6 to
8 minutes. Remove from oven and transfer
to another bowl.
2. Add the butter and allow it to cool down to
86°F (30°C).
3. Melt the dark coating wafers to 86°F
(30°C) and coat the crystallized hazelnuts.
If possible, use a dragée coating machine to
ensure an even and smooth coating. Encrust
immediately with cocoa powder and allow
the chocolate to solidify. Store in an airtight
container at room temperature.

Praline Croustillant
• 
30 g hazelnut praline paste
• 
55 g hazelnut crumble
• 
20 g cereal flakes

1. Mix the hazelnut paste with the other

ingredients.
2. Cast a thin layer into an 8ʺ (20 cm) cake ring
and reserve in refrigerator.

138 Pastry Arts

 Black Pepper & Chocolate Mirror Glaze
Chocolate Cremeux
• 
4 gelatin sheets (silver)
• 
35 g heavy cream • 
45 g water
• 
150 g milk • 
75 g granulated sugar
• 
5 g black peppercorns, lightly crushed • 
75 g glucose syrup
• 
20 g granulated sugar • 
75 g Ghirardelli Dark Coating Wafers
• 
45 g egg yolk • 
50 g sweetened condensed milk
• 
90 g Ghirardelli Dark Coating Wafers • 
1 g yellow food coloring
• 
30 g nappage
1. Cook the cream and milk to 194°F (90°C).
Add the peppercorns and allow to infuse 1. Soak the gelatin in ice water.
for 5 minutes. and infuse lightly crushed
2. In a pot, bring the water, sugar and glucose
peppercorns for 5 minutes.
to a boil (217°F/103°C). Add the soaked
2. Strain and weigh the resulting liquid. Add gelatin, dark coating wafers, condensed
milk to readjust to 190 g. milk and yellow food coloring. Mix with a
3. Start making a crème anglaise by cooking hand blender and add the nappage. Use at
the infusion along with the sugar. Bring to 95°F (35°C).
a boil and pour over the egg yolks. Ensure
correct pasteurization.
4. Gradually pour over the dark coating wafers
and emulsify.

Saffron & Chocolate Mousse

• 
A few threads of saffron
• 
65 g milk
• 
65 g heavy cream
• 
170 g Ghirardelli Dark Coating Wafers
• 
240 g semi-whipped cream

1. Combine the saffron, milk and heavy

cream and allow to steep for 12 hours in
refrigerator to extract flavor and color out
of saffron.
2. Bring the mixture to a boil. Gradually pour
over the dark coating wafers and emulsify
correctly to obtain a smooth glossy ganache.
3. Fold the semi-whipped cream into the
chocolate mixture at 104°F (40°C). Gently
mix and assemble the cake immediately.

Pastry Arts 139

 Chocolate Decor
• 
100 g Ghirardelli White Coating Wafers
• 
1 g fat-soluble orange food coloring
• 
1 g fat-soluble yellow food coloring

1. Melt the white coating wafers and blend

in yellow and orange coloring using an Final Assembly
immersion blender.
2. Temper the chocolate and pour in Silikomart • 
Gold leaf
“Alveole 9” silicone honeycomb décor molds • 
Saffron threads
and allow to crystallize.
3. Once set, unmold and set aside.
1. Prepare a 9ʺ (23 cm) cake ring by lining it
with plastic wrap.
Insert 2. While it’s still flowy, pour the Saffron &
Chocolate Mousse into the cake ring.
1. Begin by slicing the cake into two equal Carefully position the insert in the center of
layers and evenly soaking each layer with the mousse, ensuring even coverage on all
saffron simple syrup. sides. Freeze for 8 hours.
2. Take an 8ʺ (20 cm) cake ring and line it with 3. Remove the cake ring using a culinary torch.
plastic wrap. Place a layer of the mud cake 4. Adjust the temperature of the glaze to
soaked with syrup at the base. 95°F (35°C) and blend it with an immersion
3. Divide the Black Pepper & Chocolate blender, making certain no bubbles are
Cremeux in half, pouring one part onto incorporated. Apply the glaze immediately
the layer of mud cake within the cake over the entremet.
ring. Arrange a complete layer of Hazelnut 5. Garnish the top with the honeycomb
Dragées on top of the cremeux. chocolate décor.
4. Add the second layer of mud cake, then 6. Use the same tempered orange chocolate
pour the second half of the cremeux over it. to craft a decorative chocolate ribbon on
Place the Praline Croustillant crisp on top of an acetate cake collar, and wrap the sides of
this layer. Freeze for 8 hours. the entremet with it.
5. Gently remove the cake ring from the insert 7. Complete the presentation with a garnish
using a culinary torch. of gold leaf and saffron threads.

140 Pastry Arts

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Recipe

Chocolate, Cinnamon,
Caramel and Mandarin
By Anthony Hart

142 Pastry Arts

T
no lumps in the chocolate. The chocolate
his dessert was should be at 88.7°F (31.5°C) once mixed,
and should now be tempered.
conceived during
3. Pour 1 Tbs of the tempered chocolate
the pandemic,
onto an A4-sized piece of guitar sheet,
when I was given a then place another piece of guitar sheet on
very dark chocolate top, and with a small rolling pin spread the
which was far too chocolate between the two sheets until
intense as an ingredient itself. I uniform in thickness (1/2 mm). Allow the
chocolate to partially set.
developed the dish so that the
4. Once partially set, with a suitable tool
chocolate would work in harmony such as the back of a small artist’s paint
with the other flavors in the brush, draw your desired natural shapes
recipe. A variant of this dessert (try to have three sizes, with the largest
was developed for my episode on being approximately 3.15ʺ x 2ʺ/8 x 5
MasterChef Australia 2021. cm), essentially pressing the two pieces
of guitar sheets together to create the
chocolate décor. With the nozzle end of a
Yield: 2 servings 0.4ʺ/1 cm metal pastry tip and using the
same technique, press out some disks in
the chocolate, ensuring one of the disks is
cut in the center of each of your shapes,
70.5% Dark so that when assembling the chocolate,
sticks can be placed inside them. Repeat
Chocolate Décor this until you have 3 individual shapes with
the center disks cut out, and some disks cut
• 500 g Callebaut dark chocolate 70.5 %* from the excess chocolate. Make sure you
have plenty to spare, as they break easily.
1. Begin by tempering the dark chocolate by Place the guitar sheets between two trays
gently heating it over a double boiler until and allow the chocolate to set overnight, or
fully melted. Do not leave the chocolate 10 minutes in the refrigerator.
unattended for any amount of time.
5. For the chocolate sticks, place the
2. Once melted, continue to heat and stir the remainder of the chocolate into a piping
chocolate until it registers 131°F (55°C). bag and cut a very small tip. Prepare a tray
Remove the bowl from the double boiler, with a piece of baking paper, then pipe your
ensure the base of the bowl is dry, then pour desired amount of sticks over the baking
2/3 of the chocolate onto a suitable bench paper and allow them to set (you will only
and set the bowl with the remainder of the need 3 but make spares).
chocolate down away from any heat. With
an offset spatula and a chocolate scraper, 6. Carefully remove 1 side of the guitar
move the chocolate on the bench around sheet, and with a small offset spatula,
continuously – this will cool the chocolate remove the chocolate décor from the other
and begin the crystallization process. guitar sheet, then place all of the required
Continue this process until the chocolate chocolate pieces onto a tray ready for use.
temperature reaches 81°F (27°C). At this This is something you do not want to do
point, add the benched chocolate back into while plating!
the bowl with the warm chocolate, and mix
until uniform, while making sure there are *Note: Not all the chocolate will be used.

Pastry Arts 143

 1. In a heavy-based saucepan, make a dry
Chocolate Cream caramel with the sugar and glucose; heat
the cream separately. Once the dry caramel
• 110 g milk is made, add the cream slowly. Once fully
• 200 g Bulla Double Cream (45%) , divided incorporated, boil mixture and bring to
248°F (120°C), then add the salt and the
• 10 g honey or glucose
cinnamon and mix thoroughly. Set aside to
• 135 g Callebaut dark chocolate 70.5% rest for 10 minutes.
• 3 g Queen Organic Vanilla Essence 2. Pass the mixture through a chinois into a
• 
3.5 g powdered gelatin, hydrated with container and allow to cool.
17.5 g water 3. Place the caramel into the refrigerator.
Once cooled and thickened, pour it into a
1. Place the milk, half of the cream and piping bag, ready for use.
the honey or glucose in a heavy-based
saucepan and heat until steam begins to
appear above the pan. Mandarin Jam
2. Add the chocolate and the hydrated gelatin
to the saucepan and remove the pan from • 
100 g whole seedless mandarins (or use
the heat. Set aside for the chocolate to kumquats)
slowly melt, mixing occasionally. Once • 
50 g glucose
the chocolate mixture is fully mixed and • 
50 g granulated sugar
emulsified, add the remainder of the cold
• 
50 g water
cream and the vanilla and mix again slowly
until uniform. Do not use a whisk, as you • 
Lemon juice, to taste
risk whipping the cream and splitting the
mixture. Pour the finished mixture into a 1. Blanch the mandarins twice in fresh boiling
large gastronome tray and cover with cling water. Cool slightly, then either quarter or
film, making sure the cling film is directly mash the mandarins before cooking the
in contact with the mixture (this will ensure jam.
that no skin will form on the cream). Place 2. Place the blanched mandarins, glucose,
the tray into the blast chiller for at least 1 ½ sugar and water in a heavy-based saucepan
hours. and bring to a boil. Once simmering, blitz
3. Once set, place the mixture into a piping the jam with a stick blender until smooth
bag fitted with a 0.4ʺ/1 cm pastry tip, and and uniform and continue to cook. Once
place the bag into the refrigerator until boiling, add the lemon juice and reduce the
ready for use. This can be done 5 minutes mixture to a rolling simmer. Cook the jam
before plating. to 217°F (103°C), skimming the surface
scum often. Remove the saucepan from
the stove, place a parchment paper lid on
Cinnamon Salted Caramel the surface of the jam, and allow to cool to
room temperature. Once cooled, place the
• 
80 g granulated sugar jam into the refrigerator.
• 
40 g glucose 3. Once chilled, pour the jam into piping bags,
• 
100 g thickened cream (35%) ready for use.
• 
3 g salt
• 
3 g good quality ground cinnamon

144 Pastry Arts

 2. Line a tray with a silicone sheet or piece of
parchment paper. Press the streusel dough
through a resting rack over the prepared
tray to form rough square or cube-like
pieces of dough. Place the tray of prepared
dough pieces into the refrigerator to chill
again. Preheat the oven to 320°F (160°C).
Bake the dough for 10-15 minutes, or until
done. Cool completely, then store in an
airtight container until ready to use.

Assembly
1. Check the shape of your first chocolate
décor layer (this should be the largest one).
Pipe teardrops of the Chocolate Cream
onto your selected plate in roughly the same
shape for the first chocolate décor layer to
rest upon. Pipe some of the Mandarin Jam
and the caramel inside, alternating with
Chocolate Cream teardrops, then place a
few of the streusel pieces in the center of
the Chocolate Cream, making sure none of
it is visible once the first chocolate disk is
placed over it.
Cacao Nib Streusel 2. Place the first chocolate décor layer on
top of the chocolate cream. Do the same
• 
50 g almond meal for the next layer. Be really careful not to
• 
50 g Panela sugar break the chocolate while piping the next
chocolate and mandarin jam layer, keeping
• 
1 g Murray River salt in mind that the central holes need to line
• 
50 g unsalted butter up somewhat for the chocolate sticks to go
• 
50 g all-purpose flour into.
• 
15 g cacao nibs 3. Place the third and last layer of the
• 
40 g Callebaut dark chocolate 70.5%, chocolate décor on top and pipe a few
melted and cooled (make sure it is not hot decorative teardrops on and around the
when using it) dessert. Place some of the chocolate disks
onto some of the teardrops and with the
others, heat a small melon baller and press it
1. Place all the ingredients except for the into some of the teardrops to form cavities
chocolate in the bowl of an electric to pipe some of the Cinnamon Caramel (as
mixer fitted with the paddle. On a slower pictured).
setting, begin to mix the ingredients until a
crumble texture is reached. Add the melted 4. Finally, place the chocolate sticks into
chocolate and mix until uniform. Remove lined-up holes in the center of the dessert
the mixture from the bowl and place it and serve.
into a covered container. Refrigerate until
chilled. Photo by Callebaut

Pastry Arts 145

 Anthony Hart
Professional Pastry Chef
and Photographer
@anthonyhart5

Early Influence
A few things influenced my decision to become
a pastry chef, and many things influenced
my path during my career as a pastry chef.
From seeing the incredible development of
techniques and flavor pairing from chefs
around Australia and the world, it is not easy to
pinpoint an exact time or experience that made
an impact – I guess they all did. The specific
nature of pastry was a rather large reason for
me wanting to pursue a career in pastry.

Signature Style
My pastry style has changed and developed
over the years into a simpler, technique-based
one. The less you do to an incredible ingredient
the better, more harmony, and more emphasis
on finding a great ingredient has become part
of it. As a young pastry chef, I always found
myself complicating things. Only later did I
learn that less is more.

Inspiration for New Recipes

This is always a difficult question to answer.
A dessert will sometimes just appear in my
head, and very rarely does it end up the
way I envisaged it. Sometimes it is better,
and sometimes it develops into something
else. Color, technique and flavor pairing are
important, and help develop and inspire me.
Other chefs are a huge influence on me – the
skill and creativity seen today is phenomenal!
Photography I could also say is an inspiration.

146 Pastry Arts

Current Flavor Favorites Technical Tip
I have recently relocated to Brisbane from Chocolate is an ingredient and medium that
Melbourne [Australia], and thus far I have seen has always been a favorite of mine. You can
many ingredients that I have not yet used or are read as many books and watch as many
a little more difficult to acquire in Melbourne. chefs temper and work with chocolate as you
I have recently been revisiting Viennoiserie, like, but you only truly get to understand it
which I have not made for 12 years, re-educating once you work with it yourself. You begin to
myself with the current techniques and flavor understand there are many factors – some
combinations. And anyone that knows me, that you can and some that you cannot control
knows it will always involve chocolate, caramel – that affect the final result. Understanding
and nuts. I am exploring and developing recipes these and your experience gives you a far more
with all these beautiful Queensland fruits and suitable and solid understanding and toolbox
native ingredients. to troubleshoot issues you experience.

Production Tip Career Advice

I would always recommend being organized, Learn as much as possible while you are
clean, disciplined and up-to-date with current young! The more skilled you become within a
techniques and processes, and learning from particular part of the pastry industry, the more
the people around you. Always have a plan, bottlenecked your career will become, and
a mise en place guide that creates a solid this isn’t a bad thing. From restaurant pastry
workflow. Explore new ingredients such as to pastry shop to chocolatier, the more you
chocolate. Chocolate is produced to make our specialize, the less time you get to explore
jobs easier, however, we get attached to the the industry. Unfortunately, you cannot do
brand. Using multiple brands and exploring everything all the time, which I wish I had been
what is produced in your own country may able to do throughout my career.
have better or stronger flavor profiles, which
may give you the opportunity to reduce your
usage and bring the cost of the product down
while using a unique product.

Pastry Arts 147

Recipe

Fennel Mousse with

Fermented Apple
By Tara Lewis

148 Pastry Arts

T his dessert was
inspired by my
love of using
savory applications
in pastry. Fennel is highly
underutilized in the pastry world.
Adding a touch of fermentation
and the sweetness of apple truly
highlights the interesting anise
1. Whip the Fennel Cream to medium peaks.
2. In the meantime, bloom the gelatin in ice
water. Squeeze out excess liquid and set
aside.
3. Over a double boiler, whisk together the
eggs, yolks and sugar. While whisking, bring
the mixture to 135°F (57°C), then remove
from heat and whisk in bloomed gelatin.
Transfer the egg mixture to a mixer fitted
with the whisk attachment, and whip to full
volume.
4. Fold in the whipped Fennel Cream, then
transfer to a pastry bag.
flavor of fennel.

Yield: 24 servings
Fermented Apple Purée
• 
450 g green apples
• 
Salt, as needed

1. Peel and core the apples. Place in a Cryovac

bag with 1.25% salt, make sure to coat the
apples evenly. Cryovac to 100% vacuum,
Fennel Cream then let apples ferment at 70°F (21°C) for 5
days.
• 
448 g heavy cream 2. Purée in Vitamix until smooth, then strain
• 
288 g fennel, sliced through a chinois.

1. In a medium pot, heat the cream to 170°F

(77°C), then add sliced fennel. Bring to a Fermented Apple Caramel
boil, then reduce to medium-low. Cook
until cream has reduced by half and fennel • 
530 g granulated sugar
is cooked through. • 
150 g water
2. Blend on high in a Vitamix until smooth, • 
180 g heavy cream
then pass through a chinois. Chill overnight. • 
213 g Fermented Apple Purée (above)

Fennel Mousse 1. In a medium pot, combine the sugar and

water and bring to a medium caramel
• 
235 g Fennel Cream (above) (355°F/179°C). Slowly stream in cream
while whisking, followed by the apple
• 
4 g silver gelatin sheets purée. Let stand at room temperature for
• 
43 g egg 45 minutes.
• 
4 3g egg yolks 2. Strain through a chinois, transfer to covered
• 
38 g granulated sugar container and cool overnight.

Pastry Arts 149

 Toasted Rice Gelato
• 
120 g brown short grain rice
• 
650 g milk, divided
• 
600 g cream
• 
¼ vanilla bean, split and scraped
• 
300 g granulated sugar
• 
5 g salt
• 
130 g glucose syrup
• 
25 g cornstarch

1. In a medium pot, toast the rice over medium

high heat until fragrant and deeply toasted.
2. Remove from the heat and whisk in 600 g of
the milk, along with the cream, vanilla, sugar,
salt and glucose. Place back over medium-
high heat and bring to 170°F (77°C). While
the cream mixture is heating, whisk together
the remaining 50 g milk and the cornstarch,
then temper into the heating dairy. Once
at temperature, strain through chinois and
cool in an ice bath, whisking occasionally.
3. Transfer to a covered container and process
as needed.

Barley Cake
• 
2 large eggs
• 
150 g granulated sugar
Fennel Gelée • 
5 g vanilla paste
• 
141 g barley flour
• 
261 g water • 
5 g baking powder
• 
50 g granulated sugar • 
0.3 g salt
• 
6 g silver gelatin sheets • 
150 g milk
• 
147 g fennel frond juice • 
71 g unsalted butter, melted

1. In a small pot, combine the water and sugar 1. In a mixer fitted with the whisk attachment,
and heat until the sugar is dissolved. combine the eggs, sugar and vanilla and whip
2. Bloom gelatin in ice water, then whisk into to full volume. Sheer in the dry ingredients
sugar mixture until dissolved. Strain through followed by the milk, then the butter.
a chinois and let cool to room temperature. 2. Pour batter into a Silpat-lined ¼ sheet tray.
3. Whisk in fennel juice Bake at 300°F (149°C) for 6 minutes.

150 Pastry Arts

 3. Combine the apples and syrup in a Cryovac
Candied Fennel bag and Cryovac to 100% vacuum. Let sit
for 5 minutes at room temperature before
• 
100 g fennel use.
• 
500 g granulated sugar
• 
500 g water
Charred Apple Skin Powder
1. Slice the fennel on a mandolin into thin • 
Peel of 3 green apples
strips.
2. In a small pot, combine the sugar and
water and bring to a boil. Add the fennel, 1. Lay the apple peels in a single layer on a
reduce heat to a low simmer. Cover with piece of acetate fitted on a dehydrator rack.
a cartouche and cook until the fennel has Leave overnight in dehydrator at 145°F
turned transparent. Remove from the heat (63°C).
and cool overnight. 2. The next day, char the peels over an open
flame until blackened. Let cool.
3. Pulverize the charred peels in a spice
Compressed Green Apple grinder. Hold in deli cup with silica packet
until ready to use.
• 
200 g granulated sugar
• 
200 g water
• 
0.4 g malic acid
Assembly
• 
¼ green apple
• 
Marigold petals
• 
Fennel Fronds
1. In a pot, combine the sugar, water and acid
and bring to a boil. Cool completely.
2. Slice the apple on a mandolin in half moon 1. Cut the Barley Cake into 3.5”x 1.25” (8.9
shapes, making the apple slices paper thin. x 3.17 cm) rectangles. Place in rectangular
silicone molds, then pipe 30 g of the Fennel
Mousse evenly into each mold. Let set in
the refrigerator for at least 3 hours.
2. Pour the room temperature Fennel Gelée
over the set mousse. Freeze overnight.
3. Unmold the mousse and cut into two equal-
sized diamond shapes. Arrange one piece of
candied fennel over each mousse diamond.
Cut one piece of compressed apple into
triangles and place two on each mousse
diamond. Put the Fermented Apple Caramel
into a squeeze bottle and pipe 1-2 dots
onto each mousse piece, then pipe some on
the plate, as well. Garnish with fennel and
marigold petals. Scoop the Toasted Rice
Gelato on the side, tap some charred apple
skin powder over the gelato as garnish, and
serve immediately.

Pastry Arts 151

 so anytime I can introduce a savory element
into pastry is always a key marker for me. I
lean towards trying to find a perfect balance
between all elements I present on a plate. I
like to wind this together with nostalgic flavor
pairings to crank it up a notch.

Inspiration for New Recipes

I also draw a lot of inspiration from the farmers’
market. If I find a really good piece of produce, I
tend to build my desserts off just that. Portland
is full of amazing and fun local produce to use
year-round.

Current Flavor Favorites

I like to introduce savory spices into my cooking,
such as amchur or hawaij. I like to push myself
into areas of cooking that are foreign to me – it
helps me focus and learn quicker, which I feel
makes me a better teacher to my cooks. I like to
push the boundaries on what can and can’t be
considered dessert.

Production Tip
Tara Lewis Honestly, clean as you go is a fail-proof rule
Corporate Pastry Chef, Ava Gene’s, for production. Having a clean workspace
Portland, OR clears the mind. It’s much easier to focus on
a task when your surroundings are in order.
Chaos breeds chaos. Taking the time to better
organize will always result in a better product.

Early Influence Technical Tip

When I was first starting out in the industry, my I make a lot of sorbetto at Ava Gene’s. I feel
first pastry chef, Stephen Collucci, taught me like an important tip is to let the fruit speak
that the most important thing to remember was for itself. Only use what is ripe and ready.
that there are no limits to creativity. I learned Bringing the Brix to 30-33 degrees makes for
to draw on past experiences and childhood an amazing, scoopable product.
whimsiness, something that I still like to inject
into my desserts to this day. Career Advice
Keep pushing yourself to learn, don’t let
Signature Style yourself become stagnant. The beautiful thing
I go to the farmers’ market two to three times about this career path is that there is an endless
a week, so all my desserts are hyper-seasonal. pool of knowledge with new techniques
I don’t have a very big sweet tooth, as well, constantly being reformed and reimagined.

152 Pastry Arts

 EXPLORE THE
VALRHONA APP:
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for a custom experience
Browse and save products
Discover exclusive recipes
Develop and scale recipes,
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Recipe

Chocolate Tart Mi-Amère 58%,

Caramel Puff, Milk Chocolate
Lactée Caramel
By Cedric Barbaret, Owner,
Barbaret Bistro & Bakery, Lancaster, PA

154 Pastry Arts

T his is my vision
of an elegant yet
rustic dessert.
Perfectly balanced,
it combines a dark
chocolate ganache
with a caramel pastry cream and
a caramel milk chocolate whipped
cream.
1. Bring the cream to a boil, then pour over
the chocolate and trimoline. Mix with
immersion blender until emulsified.
2. Fill tart shells with ganache and refrigerate
for at least 1 hour.

• 274 g water
Gelatin Mass

Yield: 10 to 15, depending on ring • 53 g powdered gelatin

size
1. Combine the water and gelatin and allow to
bloom.

Caramel Pastry Cream

Chocolate Pâte Sucrée • 212 g granulated sugar, divided
• 180 g unsalted butter • 236 g heavy cream, hot
• 115 g confectioners’ sugar 10X, sifted • 354 g milk
• 1 large egg • 7.5 g salt
• 250 g all-purpose flour • 118 g egg yolks
• 2 g salt • 29.5 g all-purpose flour
• 40 g cocoa powder extra brute • 17.5 g cornstarch
• 1 g vanilla bean powder
1. Cream the butter and confectioners’ sugar • 17.5 g Gelatin Mass (from above)
together. Add the egg, then the flour, salt • 177 g unsalted butter
and cocoa powder and mix on first speed
until blended. Form into a disk, wrap in 1. Make a dry caramel with 177 g of the sugar,
plastic and allow to rest in refrigerator for cooking it to 374°F (190°C). Deglaze with
at least 6 hours. the hot cream, milk and salt.
2. Sheet the dough to #3. Line tart rings and 2. Whisk the egg yolks with the remaining 35
bake at 347°F (175°C) for 10-11 minutes. g sugar. Whisk in the flour, cornstarch and
vanilla bean powder. Temper in the caramel
Ganache Mi-Amère 58% mixture and cook, whisking constantly,
until boiling and thickened. Remove from
heat and whisk in the gelatin mass until
• 425 g heavy cream
dissolved. Cool to 122°F (50°C); add the
• 350 g Cacao Barry Mi-Amère 58% tempered butter slowly and mix vigorously.
• 70 g trimoline Cover and chill before use.

Pastry Arts 155

 Pâte à Choux
• 250 g milk
• 250 g water
• 200 g unsalted butter
• 10 g salt
• 10 g granulated sugar
• 300 g high-gluten flour, sifted
• 425 g eggs
• 25 g heavy cream

1. Bring the milk, water, butter, salt and

sugar to a boil. Add the sifted flour off
heat and mix well. Return to heat, mixing
constantly, for 2-3 minutes, until the dough
doesn’t stick to the pan. Place in the bowl
of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle
attachment. While mixing on low speed,
add the eggs, one at a time, mixing well
after each addition. Add the cream, then
pipe into 1ʺ (2.5 cm) balls and freeze.
2. Cut out rounds from the Craquelin Vanilla
and place on tops of choux. Bake in deck
oven at 356°F (180°C) for 35 minutes.
3. Fill choux puffs with Caramel Pastry Cream.

Lactée Caramel
31.4% Milk Chocolate
Craquelin Vanilla Whipped Ganache
• 300 g unsalted butter • 272 g heavy cream
• 370 g brown sugar • 
108 g Cacao Barry Lactée Caramel 31.4%
• 370 g all-purpose flour Milk Chocolate
• 2 g vanilla powder
1. Bring the cream to a boil and pour over the
1. Mix all ingredients together to form a paste. chocolate. Mix with immersion blender until
2. Place between 2 silicone baking mats and emulsified. Cover and chill for 24 hours.
run through sheeter to create thin sheet. 2. When ready to use, whip the ganache to
Freeze. soft medium peaks.

156 Pastry Arts

 Spread onto a silicone baking mat and
Cacao Nib Nougatine bake at 350°F (177°C) for 5 minutes, until
caramelized. Shape in tuile rack and cool
• 100 g milk (store in airtight container with silica bag to
• 100 g glucose absorb moisture).
• 250 g unsalted butter
• 5 g NH pectin Assembly
• 300 g granulated sugar
• 300 g cacao nibs • Chocolate tiles, for garnish

1. Heat the milk, glucose and butter to 113°F 1. Arrange 3 puffs, evenly spaced on top of
(45°C). Add the pectin and sugar and cook each tart. Using a #865 French tip, pipe the
to 403°F (106°C). Add cacao nibs. whipped ganache in shells between each
2. Roll the mixture into pea-sized balls and puff and a shell in the center. Top each with
place on silicone baking mat-lined sheet a Cacao Nib Nougatine and garnish with
pan, spacing them 4ʺ (10.16 cm) apart. chocolate tiles.

Pastry Arts 157

Recipe

Bebinca By Ruchit Harneja

158 Pastry Arts

B ebinca, a
renowned Goan
dessert, is a rich
layered pudding
with a unique
texture and
delightful flavors. Introduced by
the Portuguese, it embodies Goa’s
colonial past and multicultural
influences. During my time in
Goa, I learned from local bakers
•
•
•
10 egg yolks
Bebinca

500 g granulated sugar

750 ml coconut milk
and home cooks, witnessing the • 200 g refined flour
meticulous process and dedication • 5 g ground nutmeg
involved in perfecting Bebinca. • 250 g unsalted butter, melted and cooled
Inspired by Goan preparations • 75 g dark black caramel (treacle)
like Serradura and Alsande Tonak,
I reimagined the dessert with 1. Preheat the oven to 200°C (392°F). Line a
innovative twists, such as hazelnut half hotel pan that is at least 4ʺ/10.16 cm
sawdust and savory cremeux. deep with aluminum foil.
Goa’s reputation for cashews 2. In a mixing bowl, whip the egg yolks
influenced the addition of coconut and sugar together until pale and foamy.
and vanilla-coated cashews, Add the coconut milk to the mixture and
sprouted kidney beans, and tender mix thoroughly. Gradually fold in all the
coconut ice cream. This dessert flour and nutmeg, ensuring they are well
incorporated. Gently fold the melted butter
pays homage to Bebinca’s timeless
into the yolk and coconut mixture, making
allure and celebrates the vibrant sure it is evenly distributed.
cuisine of Goa, blending tradition 3. Divide the mixture into two parts and add
with personal culinary perspective. the dark caramel to one part to create a
darker color. Pour 250 grams of the lighter
Yield: 6 servings batter into the pan. Bake for approximately
12 minutes at 392°F (200°C), until the top
is golden brown. Allow to cool and then
pour 250 g of the caramel batter on top of
the baked layer and bake again, as before.
Repeat the process, alternating layers of
the light and dark mixtures, making a total
of 7 layers to achieve the distinct white and
brown layers. Cool layers completely, then
freeze for at least 12 hours.
4. Remove from the freezer and cut the cake
into rectangular slices that are approximately
4.3ʺ x 1ʺ (11cm x 2.5cm).

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 evenly, forming a layer of chocolate
Charcoal & lining. Once the chocolate has coated the
Espresso Waffle Tube inside of the waffle tube, pour out any
excess chocolate, allowing it to drain out
completely. Place the chocolate-filled
• 200 g eggs
waffle tubes on a wire rack or parchment-
• 368 g granulated sugar lined tray and allow to set. This can be done
• 60 ml milk at room temperature or by placing the filled
• 2 espresso shots waffle tubes in the refrigerator for a short
• 106 g unsalted butter, melted time. Once the chocolate filling is set and
has formed a solid coating inside the waffle
• 112 g refined flour
tubes, they are ready to be used.
• 4 g salt
• 4 g activated charcoal powder
Hazelnut Serradura
1. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs • 100 g heavy cream
and sugar until well combined and the sugar • 60 g sweetened condensed milk
is dissolved. Add the milk, espresso shots
• 20 g toasted hazelnuts
and melted butter to the egg and sugar
mixture. Mix until all the ingredients are • 20 g feuilletine
incorporated. • 20 g milk chocolate
2. Sift the refined flour, salt, and activated
charcoal powder into the wet mixture. Stir 1. In a large mixing bowl, combine the heavy
until you have a smooth batter with no cream and condensed milk. Whip the
lumps. mixture firm peaks.
3. Preheat a waffle iron according to the 2. In a separate bowl, crush the toasted
manufacturer’s instructions. Grease the hazelnuts along with the feuilletine to a
waffle iron with a small amount of oil or coarse texture.
melted butter to prevent sticking. Pour a 3. Melt the milk chocolate and temper. Pour
portion of the batter onto the preheated the tempered milk chocolate into the
waffle iron and cook until the waffle is crushed hazelnut and feuilletine mixture.
cooked and crispy. Remove the cooked Mix well until all the ingredients are evenly
waffle from the iron and, while still warm, coated with chocolate. Spread the mixture
cut them into rectangles measuring 4.3ʺ x onto a silicone mat or parchment paper and
1ʺ (11 cm x 2.5 cm). allow it to set at room temperature until
4. Take a 0.4ʺ (1 cm) diameter tube or cylinder- firm.
shaped object and roll the warm waffle 4. Once the mixture has set, break it into
rectangle around it to form a tube shape. smaller pieces and transfer it to a blender or
Hold it in place for a few seconds to allow it food processor. Pulse the mixture until you
to set. Let the waffle tubes cool completely achieve a fine powder consistency. This will
on a wire rack to maintain their shape. be the hazelnut and feuilletine powder.
5. Using a piping bag filled with melted dark 5. Prepare the charcoal waffle tube by using
chocolate, carefully pipe the chocolate a piping bag or spoon to alternate layers
into the hollow center of each waffle tube, of the whipped mixture and the crushed
ensuring it is completely filled. Hold each hazelnut and feuilletine powder. Continue
waffle tube upright and gently rotate it to layering until the tube is filled, ending with
allow the chocolate to coat the interior a layer of the whipped mixture on top.

160 Pastry Arts

 1. In a pan, dry roast the cloves, coriander
Alsande Cremeux seeds, peppercorns and poppy seeds. Grind
the roasted spices into a fine powder.
• 4 g cloves 2. In a separate pan, heat some oil and sauté
• 2 g coriander seeds the chopped onion and potato until golden
• 7 g peppercorns brown. Add the grated coconut, sugar, red
chili powder and the ground spice powder
• 7 g poppy seeds
to the pan. Mix well. Add the soaked kidney
• 1 medium onion, chopped beans and water. Cook until the beans are
• 1 medium potato, chopped tender, and then chill over an ice bath.
• 100 g fresh coconut, grated 3. In a separate bowl, combine the cream,
• 8 g granulated sugar milk, and sugar and cook to 360°F (82°C).
• 3 g red chili powder Add the whole eggs and stir continuously.
Add the bloomed gelatin to the mixture and
• 150 g kidney beans, soaked
stir well. Allow the mixture to cool to 105°F
• 200 g water (35°C), then add the butter and blend it with
• 100 ml heavy cream a hand blender until smooth.
• 60 ml milk 4. Sieve the mashed alsande (kidney beans)
• 135 g superfine granulated sugar and add 300 g of it to the butter cremeux.
• 135 g whole eggs Finish with lemon juice and blend until
smooth. Use a touch of red food coloring.
• 7 g gelatin sheets, bloomed in 60 ml water
• 135 g unsalted butter
• 30 ml lemon juice
• Red food coloring

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 2. In a small saucepan, combine the granulated
sugar and water. Heat over medium heat,
stirring occasionally, until the sugar has
dissolved completely. Remove the saucepan
from heat and stir in the vanilla extract.
3. In a separate bowl, combine the cashews
and the sugar syrup, stirring well to ensure
all the cashews are coated. Spread the
cashews evenly on the prepared baking
sheet and sprinkle them with a pinch of
salt. Bake for 12-15 minutes, or until the
cashews are golden brown and toasted. Stir
them once or twice during baking to ensure
even browning.
4. While the cashews are baking, spread the
shredded coconut on another baking sheet
and toast it in the oven for about 5 minutes,
or until it turns lightly golden. Keep a close
eye on the coconut as it can quickly burn.
Remove both the cashews and toasted
coconut from the oven and allow them to
cool for a few minutes.
5. Once the cashews have cooled, melt and
temper the dark chocolate. Enrobe cashews
in the tempered dark chocolate, coating
them entirely, then sprinkle the shredded
coconut over them, pressing gently to adhere
the coconut flakes. Allow the chocolate and
coconut coating to set at room temperature
or refrigerate for a short time, until firm.
Vanilla & Coconut-Coated 6. Once set, gently remove the coated cashews
Cashews from the baking sheet and store them in an
airtight container.
• 50 g granulated sugar
• 60 ml water Tender Coconut Ice Cream
• 5 g vanilla extract
• 250 g raw cashews • 
200 g tender coconut flesh (fresh or
• Pinch of salt
canned)
• 
100 g shredded coconut (sweetened or
• 
100 g coconut purée
unsweetened)
• 
200 g heavy cream
• 
454 g dark chocolate
• 
150 g whole milk
• 
100 g granulated sugar
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (175°C) and line a
baking sheet with parchment paper or a • 
3 g ice cream stabilizer
silicone mat. • 
100 g dark chocolate (for coating)

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1. In a blender or food processor, combine the coated demi-spheres to the freezer and let
tender coconut flesh, coconut purée, heavy them freeze for an additional 1-2 hours or
cream, whole milk, granulated sugar and ice until the chocolate coating is firm.
cream stabilizer. Blend until you achieve a
smooth and well-incorporated mixture.
2. Pour the ice cream base into a saucepan and
Assembly
heat over medium heat, stirring constantly
until the mixture reaches 185°F (85°C). • 
Freeze-dried raspberries
This step helps to activate the stabilizer and • 
Micro chervil
pasteurize the mixture for better texture • 
Sprouted kidney beans
and safety. Remove the mixture from the
heat and let it cool to room temperature.
1. Gently place a warm slice of Bebinca on
3. Once the mixture has cooled, cover it with a plate, ensuring it is positioned neatly.
plastic wrap, ensuring the plastic wrap Carefully position the charcoal waffle tube
touches the surface of the mixture to filled with hazelnut serradura on top of
prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate for the Bebinca slice. Using a round piping tip,
at least 4 hours or overnight to allow the pipe the Alsande Cremeux onto the waffle
flavors to develop. tube. Halve the Vanilla & Coconut-Coated
4. After the mixture has chilled, process in Cashews and artfully assemble them on top
an ice cream machine according to the of the Alsande Cremeux.
manufacturer’s instructions until the 2. Arrange sprouted kidney beans, micro
mixture reaches a soft-serve consistency. chervil, and freeze-dried raspberry crisps
on top of the Alsande Cremeux. Complete
5. Transfer the churned ice cream into demi- the presentation by placing a portion
sphere silicone molds, filling them to the of mimicked tender coconut ice cream
top. Smooth the surface with a spatula. alongside the ensemble.
Freeze for at least 6 hours.
6. Once the ice cream has hardened, remove
the molds from the freezer. Use a melon
baller or a small spoon to carefully scoop
out a portion from the center of each demi-
sphere, creating a hollow cavity. Return the
hollowed semispheres to the freezer and let
them freeze for an additional 1-2 hours to
firm up again.
7. Melt the dark chocolate in a microwave-
safe bowl or over a double boiler until
smooth and melted. Remove the frozen
demi-spheres from the freezer. Dip each
one into the melted chocolate, allowing
any excess to drip off. Place the coated
demi-spheres on a parchment-lined tray
or baking sheet. Using a hard brush, lightly
brush the surface of the chocolate-coated
demi-spheres to create a brushed effect,
resembling a coconut’s texture. Return the

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Ruchit heterodox food pairings and the incorporation
of savory elements, offering a unique and

Harneja rare twist to my creations. This combination

of influences has allowed me to explore new
Executive Pastry Chef, dimensions in the world of pastry and create
Musaafer by The Spice Route Company, innovative and wholesome desserts.
Houston, Texas
Signature Style
My pastry style can be described as a
neoteric approach to Indian desserts. Drawing
Early Influence inspiration from indigenous ingredients and
The influence of my mother was instrumental superfoods found in India, I aim to set a new
in shaping my journey as a pastry professional. benchmark for new-age Indian desserts. By
With a family that shared a love for desserts, I incorporating multiple textures and flavors,
developed a passion for creating sweet treats. my re-invented Indian desserts transcend the
However, being conscious of the diabetes traditional one-dimensional experience. Each
history in my family, I embarked on a path of creation is a product of my own imagination,
crafting health-focused desserts infused with pushing the boundaries of what is possible in
superfoods. Additionally, I embraced the art of the realm of Indian sweets.

164 Pastry Arts

Inspiration for New Recipes about the latest innovations in the industry to
I am an avid traveler and a culinary adventurer, make informed investments. These intelligent
known among my friends as the “chef traveler.” tools not only save time and effort, but also
My quest for culinary inspiration takes me to enhance precision, consistency and overall
the far corners of the world, where I learn from efficiency in the pastry kitchen. From precise
the masters who have perfected their craft temperature control to automated functions,
for generations. From indulging in the secrets these advancements revolutionize the way we
of gelato-making in Italy to unraveling the create exceptional pastry creations.
mysteries of chocolate in Belgium and unlocking
the wonders of molecular gastronomy in Spain, Technical Tip
I immerse myself in diverse culinary landscapes. Through my experience, I have mastered the
I even embarked on an epic 100-day journey art of heterodox food pairing, specifically
across all 29 states of India, where I delved deep incorporating savory elements in desserts. My
into regional cuisines, cooking alongside home solid tip for others working to master this skill
cooks and legendary chefs. These remarkable is to step outside the boundaries of traditional
experiences fuel my creativity and allow me to flavor combinations and experiment fearlessly.
create new-age Indian desserts. Don’t be afraid to challenge preconceived
notions and surprise your guests with
Current Flavor Favorites unexpected pairings. Embrace the concept of
I am constantly intrigued by the evolving negative food pairing and create desserts that
world of contemporary cocktails and the defy expectations, inviting diners to embark on
adventurous spirit of today’s consumers. a culinary adventure. By infusing your creations
Inspired by my own love for exploring unique with a touch of unpredictability, you can
flavors and experiences, I collaborated with create truly captivating and memorable dining
dynamic bartenders to create something truly experiences.
exceptional. The result is EPOCH BONBONS, a
collection of bonbons that beautifully blend the Career Advice
art of mixology and chocolate craftsmanship.
The best career advice I received that has truly
These bonbons feature the finest chocolate
propelled my success in pastry is to embrace
varietals, and are filled with abstract
risks and step outside of my comfort zone.
interpretations of cocktails from different eras
Taking risks opens doors to new opportunities
of history to satisfy the curious palate.
and pushes you to constantly innovate and
evolve. As the saying goes, “In order to succeed,
Production Tip your desire for success should be greater than
When it comes to optimizing productivity and your fear of failure.” By daring to take risks, I
quality in pastry production, my key tip is to have been able to break barriers, discover my
embrace the power of advanced equipment. true potential, and create pastry experiences
I like to call equipment like the Thermomix that are truly extraordinary. So, I encourage
and Rational iCombi Pro as “equipment with every aspiring pastry professional to embrace
brains” that streamline processes and elevate risks, unleash their creativity, and let their
results. Stay organized and well-informed passion guide them towards greatness.

Pastry Arts 165

Recipe

Fluff Bake
Bar’s Veruca
Salt Cake
By Rebecca Masson

166 Pastry Arts

T his is one of Fluff’s
most popular cakes:
devil’s food cake
paired with salted
caramel buttercream,
pretzel crunch and
Valrhona Caramelia crunchy pearls.
It marries the sweet and salty line
perfectly, with a bonus crunch
coming from the pretzels.
1. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with
the paddle attachment, thoroughly mix the
softened butter on low to medium speed.
Add the vanilla extract and salt and mix
well. Slowly add the confectioners’ sugar
on low speed and mix until combined. Add
the Caramel Sauce and mix for about 3 to 4
minutes. Refrigerate the frosting for at least
30 minutes (or overnight), then place on
the kitchen counter for a little while before
assembling the cake.

Yield: one 8-inch layer cake

Devil’s Food Cake
• 315 g all-purpose flour
Caramel Sauce • 7 g salt
• 6 g baking powder
• 72 g granulated sugar • 11 g baking soda
• 15 g water • 106 g unsweetened cocoa powder
• 29 g unsalted butter • 486 g granulated sugar
• 59 g heavy cream • 267 g canola oil
• 320 g milk
1. Put the sugar and water in a stainless-steel,
• 2 large eggs
heavy-bottomed pot that has high sides.
Turn the heat to medium-high. Cook until the • 6 g pure vanilla extract
sugar turns to a caramel color, about 10-11 • 283 g hot water
minutes (watch carefully so it doesn’t burn).
Turn the heat down to low and add butter (it
1. Preheat oven to 325°F (163°C). Grease
will be very hot so be careful) and whisk until
a half sheet pan and line with parchment
thoroughly combined. Again, being careful,
paper.
add the heavy cream and whisk thoroughly.
Remove from the heat and whisk thoroughly. 2. In a large mixing bowl, sift together the dry
Allow to cool completely before transferring ingredients; set aside.
to an airtight container and refrigerating. 3. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with
the paddle attachment, combine the canola
oil, milk, eggs and vanilla extract and mix to
Salted Caramel combine. Add the dry ingredients and mix
Buttercream until incorporated, scraping down the sides
of the bowl once or twice. Slowly add the
• 230 g unsalted butter, softened hot water and mix just until incorporated
(the batter will be thin). Pour into the
• 16 g pure vanilla extract
prepared pan and bake for about 24
• 10-12 g sea salt minutes. Cool in pan for 15 minutes, then
• 375 g confectioners’ sugar remove from pan and cool completely.

Pastry Arts 167

 1. Preheat the oven to 325°F (163°C).
Pretzel Crunch 2. Break up the pretzel sticks with your hands
(the more varied the sizes, the better). Toss
• 116 grams pretzel sticks the pretzel pieces in a bowl with the light
• 65 g light brown sugar brown sugar, powdered milk and salt. Add
• 31 g powdered nonfat milk the melted butter and stir to coat.
• 3. Spread the clusters onto a parchment-lined
2-3 g kosher salt
sheet pan and bake for 12-15 minutes,
• 76 g unsalted butter, melted at which point they should look toasted
and smell buttery. Cool completely before
layering in cake.

Assembly
• Valrhona Caramelia crunchy pearls

1. Unmold the cake onto a sheet of parchment

paper, trim the edges, cutting off as little as
possible. Using an 8ʺ diameter x 3ʺ high (20
x 7.6-cm) cake ring, cut out 2 full circles as
close as possible to the edges of the pan.
Then cut out two halves just above the full
circles. Save the middle piece, as it will be
used to fill in the gap of the two halves.
2. Place the ring on a cake board and line with
a 4ʺ (10.16-cm) high strip of acetate. Place
a small dab of frosting on the cake board in
the center. Layer the first full circle of cake
in the bottom. Spread the buttercream on
top and sprinkle with pretzel crunch and
crunchy pearls. Take each half of the cake
and place in the ring as close to the mold as
possible. Cut the scraps to fill in the gap so
the circle is complete. Repeat the process
with buttercream, pretzels and crunchy
pearls. Place the remaining full circle of
cake on the top and gently press the cake
down to fit within the acetate. Spread
the buttercream on the top of the cake as
smoothly as possible and decorate with
pretzels and crunchy pearls. Remove the
cake ring and using a small piece of tape or
cute sticker, place over the open ends of the
acetate to hold. Refrigerate the cake for a
minimum of 4 hours. Pull the cake out of the
refrigerator 1 hour before enjoying.

168 Pastry Arts

Rebecca Current Flavor Favorites
I am a big fan of lemon, despite that being a

Masson winter fruit. Plus, lemon ice cream between

two snickerdoodle cookies is amazing. I try to
Pastry Girl-Owner, Fluff Bake Bar, anticipate what the guest will like, even though
Houston, TX it might not be my favorite.

Production Tip
Early Influence We always work from lightest to darkest,
I am classically French trained, but lean towards whether it’s spinning ice cream or making
the American side of desserts. My stage at cookie dough(s). Scraping the bowls clean and
the Hotel Le Bristol in Paris with Chef Gilles just washing the paddles in between batters
Marchal definitely taught me to work hard. I definitely speeds things up.
learned that we work with our hands, but also
with our heads. I have always had a strong
work ethic, but being in that kitchen showed
Technical Tip
me how a team works together to make a I spent a lot of time on my own working on
successful pastry kitchen. croissants until I had the opportunity to attend
a class with Pastry Chef Daniel Alvarez from
Spain. Those three days did more for my
Signature Style learning process than the time I had spent
Nostalgia plays a big part in my style. I like alone working to get them. Even as chefs,
the familiar flavors of childhood, but I like there is still more to learn. I love learning. I
introducing them in a grown-up manner. try to attend a professional class at least once
a year.
Inspiration for New Recipes
I gather inspiration from those around me, my Career Advice
staff, and my family. Sometimes it’s a name I was told very early in my career, “You work
that comes first, sometimes the item comes with your hands and your head.” That has stuck
first. It’s random. Usually when I am not trying with me throughout the years. We forget that
to think of something, that’s when the ideas sometimes. In other words, “Work smarter, not
come best. harder.”

Pastry Arts 169

Recipe

THE FALL 2023

By Mary George

170 Pastry Arts

I created this dish because I
absolutely adore the flavors
of the fall season. One of
the desserts that I both love
to make and eat is pumpkin
pie. With this creation, I
wanted to take elements of the
American classic dessert and add
my own abstract and conceptual
style. To do this, I’ve chosen to
•
•
•
•
•
•
Pumpkin Pie Brulée
300 g egg yolks
725 g heavy cream
175 g brown sugar
20 g roasted vanilla powder
2 whole vanilla beans scraped
12 g titanium gelatin leaves, bloomed
create an entremet gateau, while • 160 g pumpkin purée
incorporating fruit elements like
tart blackberries and warm spices 1. Create an anglaise base with the egg yolks,
like tonka bean and cinnamon. The cream, sugar and vanilla and cook to 181°F
colors of this dessert where all (83°C). Add the bloomed gelatin leaves,
whisking to dissolve. Whisk in the purée.
inspired by the flavor elements of
2. Pour into desired molds.
this dessert.

Yield: 12 individual servings Spiced Olive Oil

Tender Biscuit
• 300 g whole milk
• 150 g whole eggs
Vanilla Bean Sablée • 200 g olive oil
• 425 g all-purpose flour
• 300 g unsalted butter
• 250 g granulated sugar
• 200 g brown sugar
• 1 g sea salt
• 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
• 3 g baking powder
• 100 g whole eggs
• 5 g cinnamon powder
• 525 g all-purpose flour
• 5 g nutmeg powder
• 2 g sea salt
• 2 g cloves powder
• 3 g ginger powder
1. Cream the butter, sugar and vanilla together
with a paddle attachment until pale and
creamy. Add the eggs slowly until combined. 1. Blend milk, eggs and olive oil together.
Add the flour and salt until just combined 2. Combine all dry ingredients together with a
and crumbly dough has formed. paddle attachment. Slowly stream the liquid
2. Roll between 2 sheets until 1ʺ (2.5 cm) mixture into the dry mixture to form a loose
thick. Cut into desired shapes. Bake at cake batter. Bake at 329°F (165°C) for 8-12
334°F (168°C) for 8-10 minutes. minutes.

Pastry Arts 171

 White Chocolate Glaze
• 500 g confectioners’ sugar
• 220 g heavy cream
• 410 g water
• 120 g glucose
• 520 g white chocolate
• 300 g sweetened condensed milk
• 300 g evaporated milk
• 220 g gelatin mass
• 2 g white water-soluble food coloring
• 2 g purple water-soluble food coloring
• 
2 g golden yellow water-soluble food
Blackberry and Tonka coloring
Bean Crème légère
1. Make a heated sugar syrup with the
• 360 g blackberry purée confectioners’ sugar, cream, water and
• glucose. Add the white chocolate,
150 g egg yolks
condensed and evaporated milk and gelatin
• 41 g cornstarch mass. Emulsify with an immersion blender.
• 100 g granulated sugar 2. Divide the glaze into 3 equal amounts, and
• 6 g titanium gelatin leaves, bloomed color separately. Use at 90°F (32°C).
• 35 g unsalted butter
• 445 g heavy cream
•
Maple Leaf Tuile
30 g confectioners’ sugar
• 3 g finely grated tonka beans • 250 g unsalted butter
• 60 g maple sugar
1. Heat the purée. • 200 g confectioners’ sugar
2. Combine the egg yolks with the cornstarch • 275 g egg whites
and sugar. Temper into the purée and cook • 300 g all-purpose flour
to a pastry cream. Remove from the heat
and add the bloomed gelatin leaves, then
the butter. Cool down to 95°F (35°C). 1. Cream the butter and sugars together
3. Whip the cream and confectioners’ sugar until creamy and pale. Add egg whites and
to medium-stiff peaks. Fold into the pastry combine. Add flour and mix to form a batter.
cream base along with the tonka beans to 2. Spread over maple leaf stencil onto baking
form a light-textured mousse. Pipe into mat and bake at 284°F (140°C) for 5-7
desired molds. minutes.

172 Pastry Arts

 Cinnamon White
Chocolate Shards
• 300 g white couverture chocolate
• 10 g ground cinnamon
• 5 g white fat-soluble food coloring

1. Temper the white chocolate to 82°F (28°C)

and add cinnamon and food coloring.
2. Spread thinly over acetate sheets. Set at
room temperature. Break into shards to use
as garnish.

Assembly
• Micro herbs
• Gold leaf

1. Pipe the crème légère into mold* first and

scrape up the sides of each cavity to avoid
air pockets. Place Pumpkin Brûlée insert
in the center. Pipe more légère over the
pumpkin insert.
2. Place the spiced biscuit on top as the final
layer in the mold, and scrape off the excess
for a smooth and level surface. Blast freeze
for 2 hours, or until the entremet is able to
be unmolded. If using a standard household
freezer, this needs to be refrigerated for at
least 24 hours before being unmolded.
3. Glaze each entremet individually using the
3 colored glazes made.
4. For the montage of the dessert, place
one individual glazed entremet onto each
individual sablée in the center of the plate.
Place 2 maple tuile leaves on top. Decorate
with chocolate shards. Garnish with micro
herbs of choice, and a light dusting of gold
leaf.

*Note: I used Silikomart “ECLAIR 120” Flexible

Baking & Freezing Mold, 4 Oz., 8 Cavities.
Size: 5.3” x 1.1” x 1.5” H (135mm x 28mm x
37mm H).

Pastry Arts 173

 Mary George
Pastry Sous Chef, Restaurant Daniel,
New York, NY

Early Influence
I knew that I wanted to become a pastry chef
at the age of 13. My two biggest influences
that made me become the professional I am
today were my mother and my love for eating
everything sweet. My mother was a florist
and loved arts and crafts, and throughout my
childhood she would spend her time teaching
me painting, sculpting and drawing. Through
my love for arts and all things sugar, I ended
up finding my way to the patisserie world and
starting my very exciting sweet journey.

Signature Style
I would say my style is best described being
very artistic and bold. I love referencing art
styles and time periods through my desserts.
I especially love referencing abstract and
conceptual art. The use of bold, extravagant
and vibrant colors is always a statement in my
creations. One of the most important things in
all my creations is pushing the boundaries on
flavor profiles. I want there to be a combination
of bright ingredients to really brighten people’s
palates.

Inspiration for New Recipes

I love taking old classics from my childhood
and re-inventing them. I grew up in Australia,
so I love playing with Aussie favorites and
twisting them into something creative. I also
take inspiration from classic French desserts,
creating something completely new and
exciting. With my passion for art, I love taking
inspiration from art forms and movements,
especially playing with abstract and conceptual
designs.

174 Pastry Arts

Current Flavor Favorites
At the moment I’m getting more experimental
in the kitchen with the use of different unique
ingredients, and finding new and exciting
flavor combinations that challenge the palate.
With my Middle Eastern background, I love to
combine cultural flavors such as rose water,
pistachios and saffron. These classic flavors
can go a long way when creating new designs.

Production Tip
One of my pastry tips in the kitchen would
definitely be that organization is key. Planning
ahead and having a clear understanding of
what you’re trying to achieve and how to go
about it to get the best outcome. I find I’m a
very visual person, so drawing little sketches of
ideas or flavors that I have are very useful to
keep on hand.

Technical Tip
I feel that I’ve come to master chocolate and
sugar work over my many years of training,
and these are skills that I am very passionate
about. I achieved this through experiences in
international pastry competitions, building
showpieces, creating unique bonbons and also
working as a chocolatier and confectioner over
the years. These skills can be tough to learn
if you’re starting as a beginner, but through
time and focus on what you are learning, it can
definitely be achieved.

Career Advice
My best career advice is to do something
because you love it. Having a career that you
are passionate about and excited for is truly
unique and a very special experience. I have
been in the patisserie industry for over 10
years, and I find that every day I am learning
something new in my skill. This industry is all
about creating and sharing your love for food,
and the biggest reward of all is seeing the
happiness it brings people when eating your
desserts.

Pastry Arts 175

Recipe

Flowers From
Our Garden,
a Touch of
Citrus Fruit
By Sebastien Barriere

176 Pastry Arts

 T
his dessert first came to my mind when I saw cooks filling
zucchini flowers, and I asked our farmer if he could manage
to provide a big edible flower that I could fill. He proposed
the Althea, and it was a match straight away! I think of this
dessert as a perfume, with flowers and aromas of citrus to
take people on a dégustation with something they know –
citrus fruit flavor – and something beautiful that they are not
used to eating – flowers and stems!
Yield : 15 servings

1. Boil all the ingredients together and allow

Timut Pepper and Orange to infuse overnight.
Blossom Custard 2. Pass the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve
and process in an ice cream machine.
• 300 g soy milk
• 200 g soy cream
• 1 g timut pepper powder Puffed Quinoa
• 5 g orange blossom extract
• • 6 g olive oil
90 g egg yolks
• 40 g organic granulated sugar • 70 g quinoa
• 45 g cornstarch • 25 g organic granulated sugar

1. In a saucepan, combine the soy milk, soy 1. Heat the oil in a saucepan until very hot,
cream, pepper powder and orange blossom then add the quinoa and cook until it puffs.
extract and bring to a boil. Whisk together Remove the pan from the heat and stir in
the egg yolks and sugar, then whisk in the the sugar.
hot milk mixture. Return the mixture to the
saucepan and while whisking constantly,
bring to a boil again. Cool completely. Almond and Quinoa Praliné
Immortelles Flowers Sorbet • 150 g almonds
• 70 g quinoa
• 1 lt water • 200 g organic sugar
• 40 g organic granulated sugar
• 180 g glucose 1. Roast the almonds and quinoa in the oven
• 200 g lemon juice at 350°F (180°C) for 8 minutes.
• 75 g inverted sugar 2. Caramelize the sugar and pour it over the
• 8 g sorbet stabilizer almonds and quinoa. Let it cool down and
• 50 g immortelles flowers blend the mix until you obtain a praliné.

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 through a torchon or fish paper.
Quinoa Cream 2. Freeze in a piping bag to separate the rest
of the water in the oil.
• 1 grapefruit
• 400 g water
• 10 Mandarin marigold flowers Plating
• 15 g honey
• 15 Althea flowers (same family as hibiscus)
• 150 g quinoa
• 200 g cornflowers
• 30 g Mandarin marigold flowers
1. Zest the grapefruit into the water and then
• 30 small agastache leaves, fried
press the juice into it. Add the flowers,
along with the green parts, too. Add the • 15 nasturtium flowers
honey and boil the quinoa in that water
until it’s completely overcooked. 1. Fill the Althea flowers with the custard. Pour
2. Mix the quinoa with an immersion blender some of the Puffed Quinoa on the plate and
to make a thick cream. place a quenelle of the sorbet dipped in
fresh flowers on top. Add the oil on top of
the two elements.
Mandarine Marigold Oil 2. Fill the agastaches leaves with the Quinoa
Cream, one leaf on top the other at the
• 100 g grapeseed oil
bottom, like a cracker.
• 100 g Mandarin marigold stems
3. Fill the inside of the nasturtium with the
praliné, and present both the flower and the
1. In a blender, mix together the oil and the cracker on the side. To eat it the right way,
stems. Transfer to a very hot pan and cook you should start with the peppery leaves, so
until there is no more smoke coming off the nasturtium first and then the cracker to
the mixture. Cool in an ice bath, then pass finish with the plate.

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Sébastien say when she thinks we
are heading in the wrong

Barriére direction. We work on the

creative process, giving
ideas freely, even if we don’t
Pastry Chef, La Table keep all of them, and it’s always
de Castigno, Assignan, France interesting to share and see other
people’s reactions when you come
up with a crazy idea.
Early Influence
Current Flavor Favorites
My first influence was probably Angela Chung,
former pastry chef at Restaurant Monsieur At the moment we are exploring a lot of different
Paul in Orlando, Florida, an incredible chef who seeds, and because we have a no-waste ideology,
trusted me very quickly when I arrived in the U.S. we are exploring using the stones of fruit to
She showed me how to be organized and how to infuse in creams, etc. We have also been working
work efficiently. a lot on hot pepper and berries for an unusual
combination as a dessert.
Signature Style
Production Tip
I like to describe what we do in the restaurant
as instinctive pastry. We are basing the creative When doing a meringue, try to add a gram or two
process and the recipes in general on the of citric acid when you whip the egg whites. You
ingredients we can get, only working with farmers will keep the same texture, but the sourness of
of the region. We love to work with vegetables, the acid will temper the taste of the sugar! The
herbs, seaweeds and hot peppers. We are always same principle applies when making a mousse –
trying to use organic and less refined sugar and if it happens to be too sweet and it’s too late to
avoid using a lot of animal products in general. change the recipe or redo it, add a bit of vinegar.
I’m not saying we are making vegan desserts It will cut the sweetness.
only, but we are pleased to see people enjoy a
dessert they didn’t expect, especially if it’s based Technical Tip
on vegetal products. In my opinion, one of the most important things
I learned is how to create flavor combinations
Inspiration for New Recipes that work together and how to plate differently.
I get inspiration mostly from nature to find shapes For example, when I have the chance to replace a
or vessels, but also from architecture, flowers chocolate vessel with an herb or a fruit element,
shops, designers… there are so many more to add! I try to do it as much as possible. Getting out of
When I create a dessert, there are two different the comfort zone when plating is not an easy
approaches that I use. Either I have an idea for thing to do, but from my personal experience, it’s
a special plating, and then we find seasonal and the most rewarding approach.
local ingredients to use in the dessert, or we have
the ingredients and we try and think about how Career Advice
it grows on the tree or in the ground, and can we Being able to do things differently and to be
replicate that, or at least add a special element to innovative with flavors or visuals, you have to
remember where it comes from? And how can we experience a lot of different things, so the best
use all of the product without wasting anything? advice I can give is to travel as much as you can.
I am very fortunate to have a wonderful team We have a wonderful career which allows us to
and an incredible Sous Chef, Ameera Hassen, move from country to country and offers us the
who is always sharing ideas and is not afraid to ability to find a new place to work every time!

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Recipe

Apple
Crumble Pie
By Karla Marro

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I
3. Assemble the tart shells: Lay the strips onto
the sides of 3ʺ (7.6-cm) ring molds, then
love this apple tart because press the rounds into the bottom of the
it has all the flavors of a molds. Freeze for 30 minutes.
traditional Dutch apple pie, 4. Use plastic wrap and rice to blind-bake the
tart shells for 7 ½ minutes at 330°F (165°C),
but with a more refined then remove the plastic and rice and bake
presentation. for other 2 minutes.
5. Egg-wash the shell and bake again for 7
Yield: 30-35 servings minutes, until it is light brown.

Cinnamon Crumble
• 100 g all-purpose flour
Egg Wash • 100 g brown sugar
• 100 g unsalted butter, cold
• 200 g egg yolks • 125 g almond flour
• 50 g heavy cream • 3 g ground cinnamon

1. Whisk together egg yolks and heavy cream. 1. Put all ingredients in a food processor
Set aside. and process until it has a crumbly texture.
Spread onto a silicone baking mat.
2. Divide the crumble into two parts – one
Sablé part will be used for decorating and needs
to be baked for 12 minutes at 330°F
• 300 g unsalted butter (165°C) until light brown. The rest is for
• filling the tart shells.
190 g confectioners’ sugar
• 2 g salt
• 60 g almond flour
• 2 g vanilla powder
• 116 g eggs
• 500 g all-purpose flour, sifted

1 Cream the butter with the confectioners’

sugar, salt, almond flour and vanilla powder.
Reduce the speed and slowly add the eggs,
scraping down the sides of the bowl as
needed. Add the flour and mix until a dough
forms.
2. Between 2 sheets of parchment paper, roll
out the dough to 2 mm and let it freeze for
20 minutes. Cut 3.94ʺ (10-cm) strips and
2.5ʺ (6.5-cm) circles from the dough.

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 Apple Purée
• 1500 g apples, peeled and cut into quarters
• 450 g granulated sugar
• 2 vanilla beans, split and scraped

1. Combine all ingredients and cook until

apples are soft. Remove vanilla bean pods
and blend mixture in the Vitamix.

Apple Insert for Tart

• 500 g small cubes of Granny Smith apple
• 125 g granulated sugar
• 750 g Apple Purée

1. Cook the small apple cubes with the sugar

until al dente (crunchy center and soft edges).
Fold in the Apple Purée. Put in a small demi-
sphere mold and freeze until firm.
Vanilla Mousse
Tart Assembly
• 235 g milk
• 150 g granulated sugar, divided
1. Put the insert inside the crust. Fill the tart
shell ¾ of the way with the purée, then top • 6 vanilla beans, split and scraped
the remainder with the crumble, making • 170 g egg yolks
it level. Bake at 350°F (180°C) for 10-12 • 20 g gelatin, bloomed
minutes. Cool. • 1500 g whipped cream

Green Apple Insert 1. In a saucepan, combine the milk with half
the sugar and the vanilla beans and bring to
• 325 g small apple cubes a boil, stirring just to dissolve the sugar.
• 98 g granulated sugar 2. In a bowl, mix the egg yolks with the
remaining sugar, then temper it with the
• 600 g Apple Purée
hot milk and cook to 180°F (82°C). Add the
gelatin, stirring to dissolve. Strain and let the
1. Cook the apple cubes with the sugar until al mixture cool to 99°F (37°C), then add the
dente (crunchy center and soft edges). Chill. whipped cream.
2. Fold the apples into the Apple Purée. Put in 3. Put in a pastry bag and pipe into an apple
a small demi-sphere mold and freeze until mold (cavity size 2.4ʺ x 2.4ʺ x 2.4ʺ/6 x 6 x 6
firm. cm) until half full, then add the apple insert.
Freeze.

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 Green Apple Shell Apple Stem
• 500 g cocoa butter • 100 g Valrhona Jivara milk chocolate 40%
• 500 g white chocolate
• 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped 1. Put the chocolate in a microwave-safe
• 1 g green food coloring container and heat in 10-second increments,
stirring each time, until it reaches a plasticine
• 0.7 g yellow food coloring
texture. Transfer to a marble surface and
form the stems. Let cool.
1. Melt the cocoa butter with the white
chocolate and emulsify. Add the vanilla bean
seeds and the food colorings and mix well. Final Assembly
• Confectioners’ sugar for dusting
Kappa Glaze
1. Unmold the vanilla mousse apple and cut
• 75 g granulated sugar
the base to look like half of an apple. Dip
• 7.5 kappa gum the apple in the Green Apple Shell at 104°F
• 500 g water (40°C) and freeze.
• 50 g glucose 2. Heat the Kappa Glaze to 113-122°F (45-
50°C) and dip the apple in it.
1. Mix the sugar and kappa gum together and 3. Put the apple on top of the tart and garnish
set aside. with the baked crumble. Very carefully dust
2. Put the water and glucose in a pot and heat with confectioners’ sugar, then add the
to 77-86°F (25-30°C). Whisk in the kappa apple stem.
mixture. Bring to a boil, then transfer to
a container and cover with plastic wrap, Photos courtesy of Miller & Lux
letting the wrap touch the surface of the
glaze. Keep at room temperature until
ready to use.

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 & Lux, Chef Tyler Florence has given me the
freedom to develop any dessert, and inspires
me to dream big. Designed with love, my
creations are complex, clean and elegant.

Inspiration for New Recipes

I draw inspiration from the world around me. I
go out and taste pastries, listen to the stories
behind the sweets, and ponder innovative
flavor combinations. This exploration fuels my
creativity. Once the process has begun, ideas
can come to me at any time, even while I am
sleeping! I’ve sketched out several new desserts
in the middle of the night; it’s as if they came to
me in my dreams.

Current Flavor Favorites

I love to work with what’s in season, as it
Karla S. Marro means those flavors are brightest and at their
peak. Currently, I’ve been adding lime and
Executive Pastry Chef, Miller & Lux, elderflower to mango-based desserts. I am
San Francisco, CA satiating my own curiosity, but I’m also guided
by what I think our guests will enjoy.

Production Tip
Early Influence Organization is key. Keeping a very clean work
I’ve loved sweets for as long as I can environment not only streamlines production
remember. I grew up spending much time in and reduces distraction, but I find it motivating.
my grandparent’s bakery and, coming from There’s a greater sense of pride in your work
a big family, it seemed like we were always when everything is in order.
celebrating someone or something with lots
of cake. After deciding to pursue a career Technical Tip
in the culinary arts, I was introduced to the For piping, practice makes perfect, and don’t
book Macarons by Pierre Hermé. It completely be afraid to try new techniques along the way.
changed my life and fueled an ongoing passion I use a record player when I pipe my meringues
for learning as much as I can about pastries. and I practice on lids or semi-spherical molds.
Desserts are often the center of a celebration. Also, if you’re going to use a record player,
Witnessing the joy these beautiful treats bring focus on the center or else you’ll get dizzy.
to others has left an indelible impression.
Career Advice
Signature Style Never stop learning. Use criticism as an
opportunity to improve. No matter who the
While working in a two-Michelin-star kitchen, review is coming from, even if they do not work
I was taught that desserts should have no less in your field, listen to it. Dream big, and never
than three textures or components. At Miller give up.

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 LOOKING FOR UNFORGETTABLY
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Places

The
Dolly Llama Los Angeles, CA

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Pastry Arts 187
188 Pastry Arts
Eric Shomof and
Samuel Baroux
OwnerS

Company Mission Equipment ‘Must-Haves’

Since its inception in 2017, The Dolly Llama’s Our biggest must-have pieces of equipment are
primary mission has always been to combine our exclusively made waffle machines. These
childhood nostalgia with a creative and machines are designed specifically for The
modern dessert twist for all to enjoy. From our Dolly Llama and shipped directly from Belgium.
youngest guests to our oldest, there is
something to make everyone happy!
Secret of Success
Our unique inception story and recipe are
Signature Products definitely two factors that set us apart!
Our signature products are definitely our The Dolly Llama is named after a real-life
Bubble Waffles, OG Liege and creative shakes. llama named Dolly that co-founder Samuel
The most requested would come from our Baroux encountered in the South of France.
Top Picks menu, serving unique and delicious As a restaurateur, Samuel understood the
concoctions. Customers often crave signature importance of quality. When The Dolly Llama
cookie monster creations, whether it’s our was first starting, Samuel and I sent our two
Dolly’s Dream bubble or shake or simply piling top staff to become waffle masters in Belgium
it onto a warm OG Waffle. Some even come and mimic a 2000-year-old recipe. They then
with an ice cream pint or OG Liege boxes to-go brought the training to Los Angeles to create
that are perfect for parties or the whole family. the desserts happy customers enjoy today.
You can’t go wrong!

Future Goals
Production Tip
We are constantly working to strategically
Because we have had a lot of growth over the and steadily expand throughout the U.S.
past year, we needed to find a way to get that while maintaining uniformity and quality each
identical aesthetic, vibe and product, no matter step of the way. We also love partnering with
what city the outlet is in. We found a way to well-known brands to create unique dessert
create our freshly made signature batter and combinations, increase brand awareness, and
have it sent directly to each location. This saves make The Dolly Llama a household name!
time with less preparation for each store and
keeps us on brand with uniform flavors and
products. Photos courtesy of The Dolly Llama

Pastry Arts 189

Places

Pure
Boutique
Ubud, Bali, Indonesia

190 Pastry Arts

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 to quality begins with our ingredients. We
carefully select only the best ingredients
from local and trusted, highly recommended
companies. A signature of Pure Boutique
is that all our preparations are made from
scratch: from our own gluten-free mixes for
each product to our own baking powder. We
do not rely on any store-bought plant-based
alternatives, such as vegan cream or vegan
butter substitutes. Instead, we work with each
and every ingredient, using the science behind
it to obtain the flavor and the texture we aim
for, without replicating animal-based products.
Our mission is to provide delicious, high
quality and sustainable products that anyone
can enjoy, whether they’re health-conscious,
ethical, or simply love a good dessert.

Signature Products
We have two standout products that make
us unique. Our plant-based macarons are
widely regarded as the best in Bali (some
even say they’re the best they’ve ever had!).
Our selection of visually stunning macarons
is not only high-quality, but also bursting with
flavor and texture. Each macaron features
a thin, crispy shell and a soft, slightly chewy
Ekaterina interior that’s sure to delight your taste buds.
Additionally, we have a broad selection of
Chugunova waffles which are fully plant-based and free
from gluten. Waffles come in sweet (chocolate,
Owner & Founder caramel, mixed berries) and savory (hummus,
pesto and mushrooms) options to satisfy any
craving.
Company Mission
When our clients try our desserts, they are Production Tip
surprised that all our pastries are vegan and At Pure Boutique, we make all of our
free from white processed sugar and gluten. preparations from scratch, which saves us
We do not position Pure Boutique as vegan- money on custom-made mixes and semi-
only, because we believe that everyone finished products. By optimizing our recipes,
deserves to indulge in delicious, high-quality we’re able to use our house-made mixes in
desserts, regardless of their dietary choices or all of our products and avoid relying on store-
restrictions. In fact, 80 percent of our clients bought plant-based alternatives. This allows us
are non-vegans and all of them are amazed with to create high-quality desserts that are both
the quality of our products. Our commitment cost-effective and delicious.

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Maria Equipment ‘Must-Haves’
Our secret weapon in the kitchen? Perforated
Sharangovich tartlet rings! We use them instead of silicone
molds for almost every preparation: caramelized
& Ljubov apples, brisée dough, mousses, inserts, sponges
van Beek – we even assemble our desserts in them. We
keep plenty of them in our store, and they’re
Co-founders essential to all of our preparations – we cannot
imagine life without them.

Secret of Success
Authenticity and passion. Pure is not only about
high-quality desserts. It is also about pure
ingredients, pure flavor and the pure texture
of each of our products. We know exactly what
goes into every dessert we make and why.
Most importantly, we love what we do, from
creating and experimenting with flavors to
offering the best solutions for each client. Pure
isn’t just a pastry boutique – it’s a lifestyle. Our
clients feel the authenticity of our creations
and keep coming back for more. At the heart of
it all, our best ingredient is love.

Future Goals
After successfully opening our second pastry
boutique in Parq Ubud, Bali, Indonesia, with co-
founder Maria Sharangovich, we are currently
exploring possible locations in Amsterdam,
The Netherlands. Together with our partner
Ljubov van Beek (co-founder Pure Boutique
Amsterdam, owner and founder Vegan
Patisserie van Beek), we aim to open our doors
in Amsterdam this year. This collaboration
outside of Indonesia is our new project and
we are very excited about it! Our ultimate goal
would be to have Pure Boutique in every city in
Europe, for a start.

Photos by Serhiy Hipsky

www.serhiyhipsky.com

Pastry Arts 195

Places

Bisous Bisous
Pâtisserie
Dallas, TX

196 Pastry Arts

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198 Pastry Arts
Andrea Meyer
Owner & Executive
Pastry Chef

Company Mission
Our mission is to provide delicious and
beautifully executed pastries, handcrafted
with care from the finest ingredients. We offer
a large variety of traditional and innovative
pastries in an authentic French atmosphere. Secret of Success
We consistently share our passion for pastry We offered something truly unique in our
with our retail and wholesale customers. marketplace when we opened, so we were
embraced pretty well from the start. People
Signature Products began to taste the difference when pastries
We’re most known for our laminated dough- were made with quality ingredients with
based products like croissants, ham & cheese attention to the taste, texture and sometimes,
croissants and the ever-classic almond most importantly, how we balance the level of
croissants. In addition, we sell at least 12 sweetness. As new players have entered the
different flavors of French macarons daily, and market in our area, we continue to do what we
they’re what we’re probably most known for in do, try to do it the best we can, and try to be
our area. better than we were yesterday. We resist the
urge to compare ourselves to others.

Production Tip
Future Goals
We build all of our custom cakes in pastry
rings lined with acetate, which we’ve done Our brand is really strong, so we know expansion
since the beginning to ensure consistency. makes the most sense for the future. We get
We’ve recently discovered we can do the same requests on a weekly basis to open shops in
process without using acetate, which has saved other areas around town, so that’s something
a lot of time, waste and cost of the material. we’d really love to focus on. Additionally, we
have fun with creating new products of our
own, or making our own versions of the trendy
Equipment ‘Must-Haves’ ones, like the round croissant “supremes” that
Our two biggest must-haves are our macaron are very popular now. We’ve been working on
depositor (her name is Josephine) and our our version for five months, and we’re finally
sheeter to make our laminated doughs. It’s not happy with it, enough to share it with our
that we can’t do the processes without them, customers. We wanted it to be the best, and
but the level of efficiency and consistency it will be!
they provide is essential. We’re big on being
consistent. Photos by Chelsea Conway

Pastry Arts 199

Places

Sweet Dee’s
Bakeshop
Scottsdale, AZ

200 Pastry Arts Photo by Danielle O’Day

Photos by Danielle O’Day Pastry Arts 201
202 Pastry Arts Photos by Sarah Kay
Photo by Danielle O’Day Pastry Arts 203
 Lynda and
Danielle O’Day
OwnerS

Company Mission
Our primary mission at Sweet Dee’s Bakeshop
is to deliver an extraordinary experience. This
mission is designed to reach every part of the
services we offer. From a pastry case with
novelty treats containing ingredients you may
have never heard of or tasted prior to coming in
the shop, going above and beyond with custom
orders, whether it’s a wedding or a special
birthday or celebration. Novelty beverages
that simply beg you to take their photo, and
a brunch menu filled with made-from-scratch
provisions. There is something for absolutely
everybody at the bakeshop.

Signature Products
I began baking using alternative flours and
ingredients, therefore our gluten-free, dairy-
free and vegan assortment is quite large. Our
loyal customers come to us for gluten-free
treats, custom cakes and one of our most
popular products, ‘Dee’s Nuts’, miniature baked
donuts that primarily consist of almond flour,
honey and eggs. Along with our allergy friendly
options, we are also very trendy when it comes
to holidays, album and movie releases, or other
fun themes that we are able to draw inspiration
from. This includes our giant chocolate break-
open Santa filled with house-made Christmas
cookies to mousse cakes that could be mistaken
for an actual green apple you’d find at the store.
Without a doubt, every time someone walks in
the shop, their eyes get wide and a big smile
spreads across their face when they look at our
pastry case.

Photo by
204 Pastry Arts Tracy Battaglia
 Photo by Tracy Battaglia

Production Tip Secret of Success

One of my favorite tips to offer is One of the biggest things
cross utilizing things we make for that kept our doors
custom orders for our everyday open during COVID, as
pastry case. For example, if there is well as through these
an apple pie cake that is going out unprecedented times,
on a Friday morning, we will have has been staying up
either apple pie stuffed croissants on trends, or in some
or apple pie macarons made from cases, starting them.
that same filling for the weekend. While doing this, it’s also
By doing this we are able to reduce important to make sure
storage space in our refrigerators that your demographic is
that could get pretty crowded as widespread as possible.
if we kept every single cake filling and each For example, allergy friendly treats for a specific
pastry in our case. Additionally, our case is able crowd, old school bakery items that appeal to an
to continually stay fresh and in season, as our older demographic, French pastry techniques
cake flavors also change with the season! A that you cannot find in Arizona bakeries very
few bonus tips to reduce food waste include: often, and, of course, the younger, social media
using cake leveling scraps for cake pops! We inclined demographic for those super trendy
also turn leftover sugar cookies into our house desserts and drinks. Along with staying up on
sugar cookie syrup, and my favorite way of trends, I think it’s extremely important to make
repurposing involves our bread pudding – we as much as you possibly can from scratch.
take all of our leftover brioche doughnuts (fried Not only does this save cost, but it allows
fresh daily), cinnamon rolls and croissants and
for that organic growth in your own recipe
cube them up and bake with a rotating seasonal
development and makes your product different
custard. A fan favorite for sure!
and stand out on its own. I’ve learned over the
past five years of our doors being open to the
Equipment ‘Must-Haves’ public, that not only do our customers notice,
I may be on par with just about every baker but they will keep coming back for it over and
out there when I say that my stand mixer is my over again!
number one must-have! I spend so much time
with her, it would be devastating to my every
day job without her support. The mixer is on Future Goals
90% of the day. Cake batters, doughs, macaron Success now and in the future relies strictly
batters, frostings, creams, glazes, you name it! on adapting and evolving, and that is one of
Not only would it take so much more time to my favorite parts of this business! While our
do these things by hand, but my strength is pastry case is ever changing with the seasons,
simply not capable of getting the creaminess, holidays and new recipe development, my
air, or dough kneading that our pastries need. mom and I often dream what a second location
I would have some insane muscle mass if they would look like. I envision a Sweet Dee’s Bistro
didn’t exist though! Haha! Another item in my that would include a full breakfast, lunch and
tool belt is a culinary torch. I use it every single dinner service. Perhaps that’s not so far off into
day. I find that heating up a metal cake scraper the future. As for now, we are gearing up for a
allows for a stunningly smooth finish. I also use delicious holiday season and I’ve began my own
it on our crème brûlée doughnut and toasted magazine! XO, Sweet Dee is a publication filled
marshmallow latte every day. with recipes, inspiration, musings and more.

Pastry Arts 205

Places

Par Julien
Herman
Le Mans, France

206 Pastry Arts

Pastry Arts 207
208 Pastry Arts
Julien Herman
and Marcelline
Lechat
ExecutIve Pastry
Chef/Owners

Company Mission
It is our mission to create a tea room and
pastry shop that offers a unique and delicious Equipment ‘Must-Haves’
experience to our customers. We are committed Our praline mixer saves us a lot of money and
to building customer loyalty by providing the time, because praline bought in a bucket is
highest quality food and drinks, made with really too expensive, and doing it yourself yields
fresh, local ingredients whenever possible. a much better result. Also, my rolling mill and
We are also dedicated to developing new and my paint booth for my chocolate velvet sprays,
innovative products, such as our specialty which are essential tools for our production.
chocolate candies made with local products. They save us precious time.

Signature Products Secret of Success

Our two signature desserts are lemon and The things that allow us to stand out from the
chocolate: The lemon and yuzu dessert is competition are social networks. You have to
accompanied by batak berries and basil, take beautiful photos and publicize them in
and features a crispy puffed rice with yuzu- order to create desire. You must also stand out
inspired chocolate from Valrhona, lemon peel through the originality of your pastries and not
marmalade with basil, and a light lemon mousse. copy others. This is why customers will come to
The chocolate dessert is made with a creamy you and not to your competitors.
dark chocolate, Nyangbo 68% from Valrhona,
and features a light mousse with homemade
Future Goals
hazelnut praline, runny hazelnut praline, and
crunchy chocolate with fleur de sel. In the future we would like to create a specialty,
a local chocolate candy. We would also like to
work on big local sporting events like the 24
Production Tip Hours of Le Mans, and we also want to build
All of our desserts are prepared every morning customer loyalty for years to come.
– nothing is frozen. For this reason, it is very
easy to refill the store during the day, and thus
avoid waste. Photos by Maria Labzae and Julien Herman

Pastry Arts 209

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