G310GS Fork Kit (Level 1)-RRP 840

NOTE : BEFORE COMMENCING WORK ON THE CONVERSION, TAKE TIME TO READ THE
INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY. ALL WORK CAN BE CARRIED OUT BY A COMPETENT MECHANIC, BUT IF
YOU ARE UNSURE PLEASE CONTACT US OR A MECHANICAL PROFESSIONAL.
KEEP ALL PARTS THAT ARE REMOVED, AS IT IS POSSIBLE TO REMOVE OUR KITS AND RETURN
THE BIKE TO STANDARD, IF REQUIRED.

Right Fork Leg

Tools needed:
• 6mm Allen Key/5mm Allen Key /4mm Allen
Key 18mm spanner/ 17mm spanner/ 22mm
spanner Pliers or small vice grips
• 1 litre 10w synthetic fork oil
• Blue Loctite
• Grease
• Steel ruler

1. Support bike with stand under engine so that

front wheel is suspended off the floor. Remove
front wheel and fender, remove ABS sensor from
left leg, remove brake hose support from right
hand leg. Undo upper pinch bolt on top triple
clamp and unscrew fork cap slightly using 17mm
spanner, then undo both lower triple clamp
screws and remove fork leg complete.

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 2. Hold lower axle of fork leg in a vice, using soft
jaws, and undo fork cap completely with 17mm
spanner whilst holding fork tube by hand.

3. Lower the outer gold tube to expose the fork

spring and metal tube, then pull down the fork
spring and metal tube and fit the C washer
provided under the 16mm nut. Whilst holding
fork cap with spanner, undo the 16 mm locknut
underneath on damper rod and remove fork cap,
then pull down metal tube and spring and
remove C washer. Gently release spring
pressure and remove the steel spacer tube, fork
spring and plastic seat, discard all of these
components along with the fork cap and locknut,
remove O ring on fork cap before discarding.

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 4. Remove fork from vice and turn upside down to
remove the fork oil, it helps to stroke the damper
rod up and down slowly to aid the oil removal,
leave to drain upside down for a while.

5. Stand fork leg vertically, with fork tube

completely closed and damper rod pushed
down, fill fork with approximately 450 mL of
10W weight fork oil. To help remove the trapped
air from within the fork it is best to move the
damper rod up and down slowly until a firm
resistance is felt both ways. The correct
measurement for the height of the oil is 120 mm
from the top of the outer gold tube, add or
remove oil to give this correct figure for the air
chamber gap.

6. When the oil height is correct replace the fork leg

in the vice, holding by the cast axle at the bottom
and with the fork tipped over at approximately
45°. Pull the damper rod up to its full extent, and
screw on the new threaded collar onto the end
of the damper rod all the way down to the
bottom of the thread. There should be at least
15 mm of damper rod above the new nut, and
slide in the new fork spring, ensuring that the
smaller tapered end of the fork spring is at the
top.
It is possible to hold the damper rod gently with
a vice grip or pliers, but it must be only just below
the threaded part of the damper rod.

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 7. Pull down the fork spring using two hands and
with the help of another person slide the C
washer supplied with the kit between the top of
the fork spring and the underneath of the new
nut to hold it in position then you can release the
spring safely.

8. Screw on the new preload cap and tighten down

by hand until the thread bottoms out, there
should be a couple of millimeters gap between
the bottom of the preload and the top of the new
nut.

9. Holding the centre nut of the preload cap with a

22 mm spanner, wind up the new nut on the
damper rod with the 16 mm spanner provided
and lock the two together.

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 10. Pull down the spring to release the pressure and
remove the C washer, then let the spring go back
up to seat on the underside of the preload.

11. Fit the old O ring onto the new preload cap and
screw the new preload cap into the outer tube
by hand, apply a bit of grease to the O ring before
assembly. Hold the gold outer tube by hand and
tighten gently the preload cap using the pin
spanner provided.

12. Remove from vice and pump fork leg up and

down by hand to check for free travel. Replace
the fork leg back into the triple clamp with
approximately 10 mm of gold fork tube
protruding through the triple clamp, tighten
both the lower pinch bolts in bottom triple, and
then fully tighten the pre-load cap using the pin
spanner provided. Tighten the upper pinch bolt
in the top triple.

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 13. Torque Settings:
M8 triple bolts and M8 axle bolts 19Nm
18mm axle bolt 50Nm
M6 screws 11Nm
M5 screws 8Nm

Left Fork Leg

1. Undo upper M8 pinch bolt on top triple clamp
and unscrew fork cap slightly, then undo both
lower triple clamp screws and remove fork leg
complete.

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 2. Hold lower axle of fork leg in a vice, using soft
jaws, and undo fork cap completely.

3. Whilst holding fork cap with 17mm spanner

undo the 16 mm locknut underneath on damper
rod and remove fork cap, screw locknut back
down to bottom of thread by hand.
It is possible to hold the damper rod gently with
a vice grip or pliers, but it must be only just below
the threaded part.
Also, remove o ring on fork cap before discarding
fork cap.

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 4. DO NOT REMOVE FORK OIL FROM LEG.

5. Tighten down new fork cap onto damper rod by

hand until the thread bottoms out.

6. Holding the new fork cap with pin spanner

provided, wind up the original oem nut on the
damper rod with the 16 mm spanner provided
and lock the two together.

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 7. Fit the original O ring onto the new preload cap
and screw the new preload cap into the outer
tube by hand, apply grease to the O ring before
assembly.
Hold the gold outer tube by hand and gently
tighten the preload cap using the pin spanner
provided.

8. Replace the fork leg back into the triple clamp

with approximately 10 mm of gold fork tube
protruding through the top triple clamp, tighten
both lower pinch bolts in bottom triple and then
fully tighten the fork cap with the pin spanner
provided.
Tighten the upper pinch bolt in top triple.

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