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Dynamic Rope Use Care

Cuidados de cuerda dinámica por parte de bluewater
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
33 views2 pages

Dynamic Rope Use Care

Cuidados de cuerda dinámica por parte de bluewater
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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230010-3

www.bluewaterropes.com • info@bluewaterropes.com
Tel: 770-834-7515 • Fax: 770-836-1530
BlueWater Rope Inc., • 209 Lovvorn Road • Carrollton, GA 30117
Date in Service: ___________________
Additional sources for professional instruction can be obtained by call-
Fall Factor – f: The fall factor is the ratio of length of the fall taken by the climber ing BlueWater at telephone number 770.834.7515 during regu lar
to the length of rope which is in use. The formula to determine fall business hours Eastern Standard time or from your local shop.
factors is the distance of the fall, divided by the amount of rope out from the belay. THIS ROPE IS MARKED WITH ONE OR MORE OF THE FOLLOWING SYMBOLS:
Fall factor 2 – when the fall is double the length of rope in use – is the extreme case.
Impact (shock) force: This is the force that is transmitted to the climber, carabiner, SINGLE ROPE - for use in a single strand as a link in the safety chain
and anchor point during the arrest of a fall. The impact force given is that obtained on
the first EN892 Fall Arrest test drop.
HALF ROPE - for use together with another rope of the same type in a
half rope system.
Number of drops: In the EN892 Number of drops test for a single rope or a pair of
twin ropes an 80kg weight (55lbs for a half rope) is dropped 2.3m above an anchor TWIN ROPE - use in pairs and parallel within a twin rope system.
point repeatedly at 5 minute intervals until the rope breaks. To meet the EN892 stan-
dard, the rope must survive a minimum of 5 test falls (12 for a twin rope). This test - Signifies conformity to the European Regulation (EU) 2016/425
simulates a short, severe climbing fall (fall factor 1.78). The number of drops indicates
- Signifies conformity with UIAA
the number of falls held and a performance comparison can be made between differ-
ent climbing ropes. - Please read additional information supplied
- This use instruction booklet and attached product spec sheet are to be
Static Elongation – E: This is a percentage of a rope’s length it will stretch in a static
kept together to describe the rope.
loading situation (rappelling, lowering, or ascending). In this test, an 80kg weight is
hung from one meter of rope and the percentage of stretch is measured. The maxi- EN892 : 2016 - European standard for dynamic mountaineering rope.
mum stretch allowed is 10% for single and twin ropes, 12% for half ropes. 2797 – Identification number of the Notified Body (BSI Group, The Netherlands B.V., Say
Building, John M. Keynesplein 9, 1066 EP, Amsterdam, Netherlands)
Sheath slippage – S: 2m of rope is pulled through the test apparatus 5 times. The EC type examination done by: APAVE SUDEUROPE SAS (nᵒ0082) –CS60193 - 13322 MAR-
sheath slippage must not exceed 20mm. SEILLE CEDEX 16 FRANCE
In addition, the end tapes attached to the ropes ends also contain the:
Double-Dry treatment: BlueWater’s patented fiber-bonded water repellent and abra- Diameter x length, Rope name, Manufacturer, Date of manufacture, and Lot number
sion resistant coating.
Bi-color: A change in the rope’s pattern during the manufacturing process that marks
This is a dynamic rope intended for use in climbing and mountaineering only. The
the middle of the rope when new.
rope is to be used for protection from a fall from height.
The decision to choose a single rope, ½ rope (double rope technique) or twin rope
Mountaineering is a potentially hazardous sport. Failure to follow all instruc- is dependent upon the intended use. Each of these techniques offers an acceptable
level of protection when the proper ropes and safety precautions are utilized.
tions in the proper use and care of your rope can result in serious injury or
death to the user and/or bystanders. It is the rope owner’s responsibility to Protect the rope from sharp edges, stone fall, ice axes, crampons, or anything that
educate users of this equipment of all points included in the Use Instructions could cut the internal or external fibers of the rope. (Figure 1)
in their entirety. Furthermore, any person using BlueWater equipment in Two ropes rubbing together through carabiners or screw links produce frictional
any manner is personally responsible for learning the proper techniques heat which could melt the surface of the rope, resulting in possible rupture. (Fig. 2)
involved, assumes all risks, and accepts full and complete responsibility for Doubling the rope for rappelling or top roping from the base of a pitch must be
any and all damages or injury of any kind, including death, which may result through a carabiner or a screw link – not through slings, around trees, or through
from the use of any BlueWater equipment. There is absolutely no substitute the eye of a bolt hanger or piton . (Figure 3)
for professional training in the proper techniques necessary for the use of Avoid rapid rappelling or lowering that will create excessive heat from friction. The
this equipment. A direct source for professional instruction can be found in the melting temperature of nylon is 230°C. This temperature can be attained during
“links” section of our website www.bluewaterropes.com under American Mountain very rapid descents and will melt the surface of the rope sheath, dramatically short-
Guides Association. The American Mountain Guides Association [AMGA] may also be ening the performance, strength and life of the rope.
contacted directly by telephone 303.271.0984, fax 303.271.1377, website Do not switch the role of carabiners. Reserve some exclusively for running the rope
www.AMGA.com or email info@amga.com. through and use different ones for clipping actions. The latter may score the cara-
biner, thereby damaging any rope that runs through it.
Page 2 Page 3
Inspect carabiners or descenders for rough edges before use. Snags or burrs on them Wash dirty ropes in clear cold water. Mild soap can be used to remove oils.
will damage the rope. Particularly dirty areas may be scrubbed with a soft brush. (Figure 11)
A wet or frozen rope is much more susceptible to abrasion and loses strength and is If the rope is wet after use or washing, allow it to air dry away from direct sunlight.
more difficult to tie; take extra precautions. Inspect the rope visually and manually along its length before and after each use.
For rappels or top roping from the pitch base; ensure that the rope is at least twice (Figure 12)
the pitch length. A knot at the end of the rope is necessary for greater safety. (Figure The rope is personal equipment and it is the user’s responsibility to know the history
4) of his/her rope. Do not allow your rope to be used if you are not present. Your rope
During a climb it is necessary to take into account the effects of arresting a dynamic may have been misused and have dangerous damage that may not be readily visible.
fall by using or placing protection points to prevent hitting the ground. Rope may shrink during normal usage. Store ropes between –10°F(-23°C) and 176°F
The temperature in which the rope is stored or used must never exceed 80°C. (80°C) in a dry location.
1
To tie-in use a well tightened figure 8 knot. (Figure 5) Ropes must be destroyed upon retirement to prevent future use.
2
To tie two ropes together in pairing to rappel use a double fisherman’s knot or a water
knot. (Figure 6) 3
The various components of the belay system (harness, carabiners, webbing, slings, 4
anchors, belaying devices, descenders) should conform to EN standards.
Use a rope bag for storing, transporting and for laying the rope out the base of a pitch.
This protects the rope against damage, dirt and reduces kinking. (Figure 7)

5
The working life of this rope depends on frequency and the type of use. A rope can be
subject to irreparable damage during its first use. 6
The mechanical demands, abrasion, UV exposure and humidity gradually degrade the 7
properties of the rope.
The average length of rope life:
 Intensive and daily use: 3 to 6 months
 Use every weekend: 2 to 3 years
 Occasional use: 4 to 5 years 8 10

In any case, the actual working life of the rope should never exceed five (5) years.
(Figure 8) 9
A rope must be retired earlier if:
 It has held a major fall approaching fall factor 2 or above
 Manual inspection indicates damage to the core
 The sheath is excessively abraded or badly glazed 11
12
 It has been in contact with any chemicals containing acids, alkalies, oxidiz-
ing agents or bleaching compounds
Do not allow the rope to contact chemical agents such as acids, alkalies, oxidizing
agents or bleaching compounds. These chemicals can destroy the fibers without visi-
ble evidence. (Figure 9)
Avoid unnecessary exposure to UV. Store the rope in a cool, shaded place away
from dampness and direct heat. (Figure 10)
Page 4 Page 5

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