Everything you need to know as easy as 1, 2, 3

Edition
Digital
SEVENTH
EDITION

Master all the stitches to start on your very first project

 Welcome to

Knitting has has a resurgence in recent years,

years and it’s really as
easy as one, two, three. In this brand new title, Simple Steps to
Knitting, we start you at the very beginning, taking you through
all the different types of yarn, needles and all the other tools you
might need to finish your projects. The easy-to-follow tutorials
then lead you through everything you need to know, from
your first cast on through to combining stitches and adding
embellishments and fastenings before you’ll find some really
great patterns from our wonderful designers.
 Future PLC Quay House, The Ambury, Bath, BA1 1UA

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Simple Steps to Knitting Seventh Edition (HOB6195)
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CONTENTS
Getting Started
10 Yarns
12 Knitting needles
14 Knitting kit bag
16 Making a slip knot
17 Holding yarn & needles
18 Casting (binding) on
22 The knit stitch
24 The purl stitch
26 Slipping stitches
27 Rib stitch
28 Moss (seed) stitch
30 Joining a new yarn
32 Simple increases
34 Simple decreases
36 Yarn-over increases 10
38 Textural decreases
40 Double-pointed needles
41 Circular needles 22 64
42 Twisted stitches & cables
44 I-cord
46 Working with two colours
48 Colour work
49 Short row shaping
50 Fixing a dropped stitch

6 Simple Steps to knitting

 patterns 122 Flower fair isle bag
+++++
Star ratings indicate
difficulty. You will learn all
skills required in this book
124 Fingerless gloves
+++++
80 Moss Stitch Neck Warmer 126 Forever April Sweater
98 +++++
+++++
82 Trio of Dishcloths 130 Fairy tale legwarmers
+++++
+++++
84 Cosy Popcorn Cowl 132 Stranded Christmas Stocking
& hat +++++
+++++
86 Blackberry stitch 136 Cable & Bobble
tea cosy Cushion Cover
+++++
+++++
88 Cosy mittens 138 Fish & stripes cot blanket
+++++
+++++
90 Basket stitch container 140 +++++
Weasley Homestead socks
+++++
92 Stormy Waters Shawl
+++++ References
96 Lace placemat & coaster 146 Yarn labels
+++++
147 Choosing yarn colours
98 Strawberry pie blanket
148 Knitting Abbreviations
136 +++++
102 Chevron Cushion Cover 149 Stitch chart symbols
+++++ 150 stitch pattern gallery
Finishing 104 Winter Cables Cowl 155 glossary
54 Picking up stitches & hat
+++++
56 Buttonholes 108 Willowherb lace doily
64 Pockets +++++ 88
68 Add a picked up/ 110 Gradient Shawl
folded hem +++++

69 Picot hem 114 Fox isle socks

+++++
70 Blocking 118 Cosy June Cushion
72 Seams & edging +++++
76 Fastenings
GETTING STARTED
22
10 Yarns 32 Simple increases
12 Knitting needles 34 Simple decreases
14 Knitting kit bag 36 Yarn-over increases
16 Making a slip knot 38 Textural decreases
42
17 Holding yarn & needles 40 Double-pointed needles
18 Casting (binding) on 41 Circular needles
22 The knit stitch 42 Twisted stitches & cables
24 The purl stitch 44 I-cord
26 Slipping stitches 46 Working with two colours
27 Rib stitch 48 Colour work
28 Moss (seed) stitch 49 Short row shaping
30 Joining a new yarn 50 Fixing a dropped stitch

44

48

8 Simple Steps to knitting

28 30

14
 Getting started

YARNS
Although you can quite easily start knitting with just a pair of needles
and a ball of yarn, there are lots of other useful tools available

T
o begin knitting, it’s pretty straightforward, as all you wool is stretchy and tough, alpaca is soft and luxurious, and
need are two things: a pair of knitting needles and a natural and synthetic blends are durable with other enhanced
ball of yarn. The yarn that you decide to use will play a properties. When choosing a yarn you also need to consider
part in determining which needles you work with, so let’s start its thickness, usually called its weight. Different weights affect
by looking at the many types of yarn available to you. the appearance of your project and the number of stitches
Yarns are made with a wide variety of fibres; most are natural, needed. When learning to knit, it’s a good idea to start with a
some are synthetic, and others blend different fibres together. medium-weight yarn that feels comfortable in your hand and
All yarns have different textures and properties, and will is smooth but not too slippery. A yarn described as worsted,
affect the look and feel of your finished project. For example, Aran or 10-ply in wool or a wool blend is ideal.

Wool Cotton
Wool is very warm and This natural vegetable
tough, so great for fibre is less elastic than
winter wear. It can be woo. Cotton has a
fine and soft or rough lovely stitch definition
and scratchy, but will when crocheted, and
soften with washing. It’s a is good for homewares
good for new crocheter. and bags.

Mohair Acrylic
Mohair is a silk-like fibre Acrylic yarn is both
that comes from the affordable and
Angora goat. Itdyes well washable. This synthetic
and is often blended yarn is very soft to the
with other fibres. It touch and comes in a
is great for winter wide variety of colours
garments as it is warm. and textures.

Alpaca Natural and

synthetic blends
Alpaca yarn can be
hairy looking, but it is
one of the warmest Blending natural and
and most luxurious man-made fibres
wools out there. It is creates yarns that
also incredibly soft, and are more versatile. It
comes in varieties such can also enhance
as baby and royal. their appearance.

10 Simple Steps to knitting

 Every ball of yarn comes with a recommended needle
size, which is printed on the label. Use bigger needles
than this to make a more open stitch, and smaller
ones to make a tighter, more compact fabric.

Yarn weights
Recommended Needle Sizes
Yarn Weight Properties Ideal For
Metric US Old UK
Extremely light, Lace yarn produces a very Lace 2mm 0 14
Lace, 2-ply, fingering delicate texture on 2mm (US 0) hooks. Bigger 2.25mm
needles will produce a more open fabric. 2.5mm 1 13

Finely woven 2.75mm 2 12

Superfine, 3-ply, fingering, Using very slim needles, Superfine yarn is perfect
socks, shawls, 3mm 11
baby for lightweight, intricate lace work.
babywear 3.25mm 3 10

Fine yarn is great for socks, and can also be Light jumpers, 3.5mm 4 9
Fine, 4-ply, sport, baby used in items that feature slightly more delicate babywear, socks, 3.75mm 5
textures. accessories 4mm 6 8

Double knit (DK), light worsted, An extremely versatile weight yarn, DK can Jumpers, light- 4mm
be used to create a wide variety of items and weight scarves, 4.5mm 7 7
5/6-ply blankets, toys
crochets up relatively quickly.

With many yarns in this thickness using a variety Jumpers, cabled 5mm 8 6
Aran, medium worsted, garments, 5.5mm
of fibres to make them machine washable, Aran
Afghan, 12-ply yarn is good for garments with thick cabled detail blankets, hats, 9 5
scarves, mittens
and functional items.

Quick to crochet, chunky yarn is perfect for warm Rugs, jackets, 6mm 4
Chunky, bulky, craft, 10
outerwear. Often made from lightweight fibres to blankets, hats, 6.5mm 3
10.5
rug, 14-ply prevent drooping. legwarmers, 7mm 2
11
winter accessories 8mm 0

Super chunky, super bulky, Commonly used with very large needles, Super Heavy blankets, 9mm 13 00
bulky, roving, chunky yarn crochets up very quickly. Large rugs, thick 10mm
stitches make mistakes easy to spot. scarves 15 000
16-ply and upwards

Simple Steps to knitting 11

 Getting started

KNITTING NEEDLES
The tools of the trade, choosing your needles will ultimately depend on your
project, yarn and, of course, personal preference

K
nitting needles come in many types, sizes and Learning to knit on bent, dull or rough needles will be a
materials. Once you become more familiar with frustrating process, so it’s worth investing in a good pair that
knitting, you may find that you prefer one type over feel nice in your hands to get started. To practise knitting, it’s
another, but the variations are designed with different patterns better to work with thick yarn as this will make it easier to spot
and yarns in mind. This guide will explain the features of mistakes. If you’re getting started with yarn that is Aran weight
each, but the best way to decide which needles suit you is to or thicker, your first pair of needles should be at least 5mm
practise and find the ones that feel most comfortable. (US 8) in diameter.

Straight needles
Pointed at one end with a stopper at the other, straight knitting needles come in pairs and a variety of lengths. Short needles
are best for small projects and long needles are recommended for wider projects, such as blankets. When you’re new to
knitting, it’s best to start with long, straight needles, as they have more length to hold on to and give the most support to
the hand.

Metal needles
Strong and not prone to bending, metal needles are good for all types of yarns, especially wool, wool blends and acrylic.
Stitches move quickly on the polished surface of metal needles, which makes them quick to knit with but also unsuitable for
beginners, as stitches can easily slip off the needle’s tip. Metal needles of more than 8mm (US 11) in diameter can be heavy and
difficult to work with.

Plastic needles
Lightweight and flexible, plastic needles can be used with all types of yarns. The smooth surface of plastic needles allows
stitches to move quickly, but not as quickly as on metal needles, so the risk of stitches slipping off the needle is reduced. Larger
needles are commonly made of plastic in order to reduce their weight.

Bamboo needles
Bamboo needles are strong and tend to be lighter than metal needles. The bamboo has a slight grip, which helps to keep
stitches regularly spaced, creating an even knit. This also minimises the risk of stitches slipping off the needle’s tip, making
them an excellent choice for beginners. Bamboo needles are also recommended for arthritis sufferers, as they are warm to the
touch and can warp slightly to fit the curvature of the hand.

12 Simple Steps to knitting

 Knitting needles

Size
Knitting needles come in a variety of
diameters, from as small as 1.5mm (US 000

Square needles
/ 00) up to 25mm (US 50). The size of the
needle that you use will determine the size
Although most needles are cylindrical, square needles with four flat sides of the stitch you create, and most yarns will
make a more consistent stitch and require less hand tension to maintain come with a recommended needle size.
in position. This makes them good for beginners and arthritis sufferers. There are three common needle-sizing
systems: European metric, old British
and American. Use this chart to convert

Double-pointed and circular needles between sizes. If your needles are not
labelled by diameter, you may need to buy
In order to produce a tube of knitting without a seam, such as a sock or a needle size gauge to establish their size.
cowl, you will need to knit in the round using double-pointed or circular
needles. Choosing which to use will often depend on the length of your Metric (mm) US Old UK
project. Double-pointed needles (DPNs) can knit a very narrow tube,
whereas circular needles are better for larger projects.
1.5 000/00 N/A

2 0 14
2.25 / 2.5 1 13

2.75 2 12

3 N/A 11

3.25 3 10
Double-pointed needles 3.5 4 N/A
Usually sold in sets of four or five, double-pointed needles (DPNs) have
points at both ends. They are typically quite short and do not hold a lot 3.75 5 9
of stitches, so are best for smaller projects, such as socks.
4 6 8
4.5 7 7
5 8 6

5.5 9 5
6 10 4

6.5 10.5 3

7 N/A 2

7.5 N/A 1

8 11 0

9 13 00
10 15 000

Circular needles 12 17 N/A

These are two straight needles connected with a flexible plastic cord. The 15 19 N/A
cord can come in many different lengths, from 30-152cm (12-60in), and it
is important to choose a length that is appropriate for your project. A good 20 35 N/A
rule of thumb is to use a cord that will match or be slightly smaller than the
circumference of the piece you are knitting. 25 50 N/A

Simple Steps to knitting 13

 Getting started

KNITTING KIT BAG

Although you can quite easily start knitting with just a pair of needles
and a ball of yarn, there are lots of other useful tools available

Needle organiser Pins

When you’ve built up a Useful for pinning pieces
collection of needles of all of knitting together when
different sizes and types, storing sewing up or pinning out
them can become tricky. A to get measurements, pins
needle organiser keeps them with large heads are ideal,
all in one place and protected as they won’t get lost in
against damage. Depending on your work.
your preference, you can get
either a needle roll or a bag,
which is like a long pencil case.

Row counter
Used to keep track of how many rows
you’ve knitted, this is another helpful
tool that will save you from counting the
stitches in your work. There are different
types of counters available; some sit on
the end of your needle and can be turned
at the end of each row, while others are
available as a clicker.

Stitch markers
These can be used at the beginning and end of a panel
of stitches, such as a cable detail, and to mark the end
of each row when working in the round. They can be
incredibly useful when you’re following a complex pattern,
and save you a lot of time by avoiding counting stitches on every
row. When you get to a marker in your work, simply transfer it
from the right-hand to the left-hand needle and continue.

14 Simple Steps to knitting

 Knitting kit bag

Knitting bag
Available at most craft stores, knitting bags
come with many compartments for storing
all your tools and materials. They are usually
made of sturdy material that won’t be
damaged by the sharp points of
your needles.

Knitting is actually good for your health. Studies have

proven that knitting can help reduce blood pressure,
decrease heart rate, and provide many benefits for

Point protectors those suffering with mental health issues.

These will prevent the points of your needles

from being damaged, as well as other things
being damaged by them. Sharp needles will easily
puncture bags, and fragile tips can be rather
prone to breaking while being transported. Point Knitting needle gauge
protectors will also prevent unfinished work from It’s essential to know what size of
slipping off the ends of your needles while you are needle you’re knitting with. If you’re
not working on your project. unsure, either because the needle has
no marking or it has been rubbed off,
a needle gauge will be able to tell you.
All you need to do is poke the needle
through the holes to find the best fit.
Most will also feature a ruler to measure
tension squares.

Scissors
You will need a pair of scissors for cutting off yarn
and trimming edges. It’s best to use a good-quality
pair with sharp, short blades that will allow you to
snip close to the work for a clean finish.

Stitch holders
Available in many different sizes, these are used to
hold stitches that you will return to later. You can
even make your own from a length of thin yarn or
a safety pin.

Tape measure
A handy tool when you’re knitting to exact measurements,
you should always keep a tape measure nearby. Not only
can you use it to measure the person you are knitting for,
but also to check your tension and the size and progress of
your piece of knitting.

Simple Steps to knitting 15

 Getting started

SLIP KNOT
Almost every piece that you knit will begin with this
simple knot, which creates your first stitch

T
his is an easy and quick-to-learn knot. The slip
knot is, in fact, the first loop you will place on the
If you find it difficult to grab
needle when you begin a piece of knitting, and it will
the loop with a needle, use
form the first stitch. There are many ways to create a slip knot, your index finger instead.
and as you practise making it, you might find that you develop Then, when you’ve made
your own technique. Here is just one way. the loop and tightened
it, just slip it onto
the needle.

01 02 03
Make a circle Lay out a length of Bring the yarn through Insert the Knot and loop This forms a
yarn. Pick it up close to the ball tip of a needle through the circle of loop on the needle and a loose
and cross it over the yarn end yarn and underneath it, then over knot below, as shown in the
(called the tail) to make a circle. the piece of yarn coming from the image above.
ball end. Pull this bit of yarn through
the circle.

04 06
Tighten With the needle in one
hand, pull both ends of the yarn Assess the tail The tail end of
firmly in order to tighten the knot your yarn should be at least
and the loop. 10-15cm (4-6in) long so it
can be woven in later. Some

05
Check tension Ensure the slip knot patterns will instruct that you
is tight enough that it won’t fall off leave a longer tail (called a
the needle or fall apart but not so long loose end) to use for
tight that you can’t move it along seams or something else at a
the needle. later stage.
 Holding yarn and needles

HOLDING YARN & NEEDLES

Picking up your needles and yarn together for the first time might feel a bit
awkward and unnatural, but it will soon become second nature

I
t will take practice to hold needles and yarn There are two styles of knitting: holding the yarn in the right
comfortably. You’ll mostly hold the yarn and a needle in hand is called English style and holding it in the left hand is
one hand at the same time, which can be complicated. called Continental style. However, knitting is ambidextrous,
For now, do what feels comfortable. As you improve, you will so whether you’re right or left handed, try both to see which
find a technique that works for you. you prefer.

English style

01 02 03
Position the yarn With your Alternative technique If you Hold the needles Once your yarn
palm facing you, wrap the yarn can’t get comfortable, try this is in position, grab your needles.
around your little finger on your technique, or any other that you The needle with the stitches
right hand. Take it across your prefer, instead. The main thing about to be worked needs to be
next two fingers then under your you need to make sure of is that in the left hand, and the other
index finger. You need to control the tension is enough to create in the right. Use the right index
the yarn firmly but with a relaxed even loops that are not too loose finger (or middle finger if you
hand, so that the yarn will flow or too tight. Keep this in mind the prefer) to wrap the yarn around
through your fingers as you knit. whole time. the needle.

Continental style

02 03
Alternative technique Hold the needles

01
Position the yarn If that does not feel comfortable, As with English-style knitting,
Wrap the yarn around your little try wrapping the yarn around a hold the needle with the stitches
finger with your palm facing you. different finger. You can also try to be worked in the left hand
Then take it over the next two wrapping the yarn twice around and the other in the right. Use
fingers to lace it underneath your the index finger, which will help your left index finger to wrap
index finger. Check your tension: you tighten the tension if you the yarn around the right-hand
not too loose and not too tight. need to. needle when working a stitch.

Simple Steps to knitting 17

 Getting started

CASTING ( BINDING ) ON
Now you’re comfortable holding your needles and yarn,
it’s time to get knitting. The first step is casting on

T
o get started, you must cast (bind) on. This properties that you can also use,
creates a row of loops that will be the foundation for and which will affect the look of
your knitting. There are many methods. Single-strand your knitting.
cast (bind) ons are simple and soft; they can be created Don’t forget to create your
using one or two needles. Two-strand cast (bind) ons mostly first stitch with a slip knot – Don’t forget that the slip
use one needle and are strong, elastic and versatile. Here, turn back to page 16 if you knot makes your first stitch,
we are going to showcase three of the most common cast need a reminder on how to so you need to include it
(bind) ons, but there is an abundance of others with different do this. when you’re counting how
many stitches are on
your needle.

01 02
Make a loop around your thumb This is the simplest Collect the loop Put the needle tip near the crook of
cast (bind) on, and is quick and easy to get on the your thumb and underneath the yarn that is closest to
needle. With the needle that has the slip knot on it you. Pull it up so that the yarn is on the needle.
in your right hand, wrap the working yarn around
your left-hand thumb (and index finger if it’s more
comfortable). Hold the yarn in place in your palm.

03
Tighten the stitch Pull the loop off your thumb
(and index finger if necessary) with the needle, but
keep hold of the yarn in the palm of your hand. Lift
the needle or pull on the yarn to tighten the stitch.

04
Repeat the process Wrap the yarn
around your left-hand thumb again and
continue making loops until you have the
desired number on your needle.
 Casting on

Cable cast (bind) on

01 02
Begin to knit Holding the yarn in either English or Make a loopWith the yarn behind the needles, wrap it under
Continental style, place the needle with the slip knot and around the right needle. With the tip of the right needle,
in your left hand. Put the tip of the right-hand needle carefully pull the yarn through the loop on the left needle.
through the loop on the left needle.

03 04
Transfer to the needle To move the loop from the right Insert the needle Put the tip of the right needle
needle to the left, insert the tip of the left needle from between the two loops on the left needle. Then, you
right to left through the front of the loop. Tighten the must wrap the yarn under and around the tip of the
loop by pulling both yarn ends. right needle.

05 06
Pull the loop through Now you need to draw the yarn Continue Move the loop on the right needle to the left
through very carefully with the tip of the right needle. as you did in step 3. Continue, being sure to insert the
You should find that you have a loop on the right- needle between the first two loops on the left needle.
hand needle.

Simple Steps to knitting 19

 Getting started

Long tail cast (bind) on

01
Leave a tail This cast (bind) on is a bit harder, as it uses
two yarn strands (the working yarn and the tail) at the
same time. You will need to use a long tail, one that is

02
approximately four times as long as the desired width
of your cast (bind) on. Start by holding the needle with Pick up the loop Insert the tip of the needle under the
the slip knot in your right hand. In your left hand, hold loop on your thumb, much the same as when making
the tail going over your thumb and the working yarn the single cast (bind) on.
over your index finger. Hold both strands in your palm.

03 04
Go over the back While keeping the yarn on your Form the first stitch Pull the yarn through the space
thumb, wrap the tip of the needle around the loop on next to your thumb and then up to form a stitch.
your index finger.

05
Tighten the stitch Release the yarn from your thumb
and pull both ends to tighten the stitch on the needle.

06
Continue the process Loop the strands of yarn around
your thumb and index finger again, and repeat the steps
until you have the desired number of stitches.
If you have wooden knitting
needles, it’s very important
to clean and moisturise
them once or twice a year
using natural wax wood
cleaners.

Simple Steps to knitting 21

 Getting started

KNIT STITCH
Learn the foundation stitch of knitting with this simple tutorial and you’ll be
making scarves, tea cosies and more in next to no time

T
he knit stitch (abbreviated as K in patterns)
is the very first stitch that you’ll learn. It is the
most important stitch and even when it’s used on
its own you can still create great pieces from scarves to
tea cosies. Now that you’ve learnt how to cast (bind) on
– we recommend that you start off with cable cast (bind)
on (page 19) – you’re more than 80 per cent of the way
there with knit stitch. Working the knit stitch (K) every row
is called garter stitch (g st), the result is a flat fabric with
horizontal ridges of V stitches and bumps, this somewhat
corrugated finish is great for making warm garments as the
rows of bumps hold in warm air. Garter stitch is also often
worked on the edges of flat pieces of stocking (stockinette)
stitch (st st) knitting to prevent it from curling. Once you’ve
followed the steps and mastered the stitch, have a go at the
garter stitch scarf.

The word ‘knit’ comes from the Old English word

‘cnyttan’, which literally means ‘knot’.

Knit stitch

01
Use the cable cast (bind) on method Following the

02
cable cast (bind) on method on page 19, cast (bind) on Maintain an even tension (gauge) With the yarn
a manageable 20 stitches. Hold the needle with your guided by your index finger, wind it under and around
stitches in your left hand and with your right hand hold the point of the right-hand needle, in an anti-clockwise
the yarn at the back of your needles, insert the point of direction. Keep the yarn in your right hand relatively
right-hand needle into the left side of first stitch (loop) taut, this will help to keep your work stable and
on the left-hand needle. maintain an even tension (gauge).

22 Simple Steps to knitting

 Knit stitch

04
Finish the stitch Move the right-hand needle little
further through the stitch that you have just created,

03
Thread the needle through the loop With a firm hold then gently pulling the right needle to your right, you
of the left-hand needle, carefully move the right-hand can let the stitch from the left needle drop off. You
needle so that you bring the tip through the loop on have now worked one knit (K) stitch. Continue for the
the left-hand needle, catching the yarn that you wound rest of the row. When you’ve worked all the stitches,
round the needle in step 1. swap the needles into the other hands and start again.

“It’s the most important stitch – even when it’s used

on its own you can still create great pieces”
Cast (bind) off knitwise

03
Loop and pull At the end of

01 02
Begin to cast (bind) off With One stitch at a time Lift the stitch the row you will be left with
the yarn at the back of the work over the second stitch and the one stitch on the right needle.
knit the first two stitches as you tip of the right-hand needle then Cut your yarn to leave a tail of
would normally do. Then insert drop from the left needle. You approximately 15cm (8in) and
the tip of the left-hand needle have cast (bind) off one stitch. enlarge the last stitch and feed
into the right side of the first Knit the next stitch and repeat to the end of the yarn through the
stitch on the right-hand needle. the end of the row. loop and pull tightly.

Simple Steps to knitting 23

 Getting started

PURL STITCH
Now that you have mastered the knit stitch, it’s time to learn how to
work its partner purl stitch – you’ll find it’s not all that different

T
here are only two main stitches to the art of
knitting. The first is knit (K), which you will have now
mastered; the second is purl (P), which we will show
you how to work here. When worked together with subtle Practise your knit and purl
variations, you will be able to make anything! stocking stitch in a bright,
fun yarn to keep you
Purl stitch is effectively the reverse way to work a knit
interested as you
stitch. If you were to purl every row, you would end up with
learn.
a piece of fabric identical to a garter stitch (g st) (knit stitch
every row). However, when you work a row of knit stitches
followed by a row of purl stitches and repeat these two
rows, you will have a piece of fabric that has smooth ‘Vs’ on
one side and rugged ‘bumps’ on the other. This is called a
stocking (stockinette) stitch (st st), and you will recognise this
as the standard knit fabric. Usually the ‘V’ side is called the
right side (RS), and when this faces you on the left needle, it
indicates that you knit the next row. The wrong side (WS) has
bumps and indicates that you purl the next row. When you
knit a sample of stocking (stockinette) stitch, it has a tendency
to curl on itself, so it is often worked alongside garter stitch
for flat pieces and rib stitch for garments.

01 02
Set up the needles With the needle holding the Wind the yarn Wind the yarn around the tip of
unworked stitches in your left hand (LH) and the the right needle, moving it from right to left in an
empty needle in your right hand (RH), hold the yarn at anticlockwise direction, ensuring that you’re keeping a
the front of your work. Insert the tip of the right-hand tension on the yarn as it moves through your fingers.
needle into the first stitch entering the loop from left
to right.

24 Simple Steps to knitting

 Purl stitch

03 04
Drop off and continue Move the right-hand needle
Work the stitches Work the tip of the right-hand needle a little further through the stitch that you have just
through the stitch on the left needle, catching the yarn created, then gently pulling the right needle to your
as you go and drawing it through. right, you can let the stitch from the left needle drop
off. You have now worked 1 purl (P) stitch. Continue
for the rest of the row.

While on the majority of patterns, a stocking stitch “When worked together

with variations, you will be
(st st) shows the ‘V’ side as the right side of your
work, sometimes reverse stocking (stockinette) stitch
is called for in the design. This is simply where the

able to make anything!”

‘bumpy’ side becomes the right side.

Cast (bind) off purlwise (p-wise)

01 02 03
Purl the first 2 stitches With the Cast and purl Carefully lift the Cut and enlarge At the end of the
yarn at the front of the work, purl stitch over the second stitch and row, you will be left with 1 stitch
(P)the first 2 stitches as you would the tip of the right-hand needle, on the right needle. Cut your yarn
normally do. Then, insert the tip and drop from the left needle. to leave a tail of approximately
of the left-hand needle into the You have cast off 1 stitch. Purl the 15cm (8in). Enlarge the last stitch,
right side of the first stitch on the next stitch and repeat this method feed the end of the yarn through
right-hand needle. to the end of the row. the loop and pull tightly.

Simple Steps to knitting 25

 Getting started

SLIPPING STITCHES
Slipping your stitches in the correct way is a technique that is important to master,
because it will ensure that your knitting looks neat and professional

T
o slip stitches (sl st), you must displace stitches from before slipping the stitch will determine whether the bar is in
one needle to the other. Whether it’s to decrease front or behind the slipped stitch. Unless the pattern tells you
stitches, transfer stitches to cable needles and stitch to bring the yarn to the front (yf), or take it to the back (yb),
holders, or add detail in a lace pattern, you’ll use this method leave it where it is. There are two ways of slipping stitches:
a lot. The result is an elongated stitch with a bar across it. knitwise (kwise) or purlwise (pwise). Unless the pattern
Depending on whether your yarn is at the front of the work instructs otherwise, slip the stitch purlwise.

Slip stitches purlwise

01 02
Prepare to purl On both right and wrong side rows, insert Work the stitches Drop the stitch from the left
the tip of the right-hand needle into the first stitch (unless needle by sliding it onto the right. Work the next
otherwise stated) as if to purl the stitch. stitch as instructed. Be careful not
to pull the yarn too tightly.

Slip stitches knitwise

Unless otherwise
instructed, always slip
stitches purlwise to ensure
that stitches don’t
become twisted.

02
Work the stitches The next part of the method

01
Prepare to knit Slip knitwise only when instructed, as this is the same as if you were purling. So, drop the
will twist the stitch. On both right and wrong side rows, stitch from the left needle by sliding it onto the
insert the tip of the right-hand needle into the first stitch right. Work the next stitch as instructed, being
(unless otherwise stated) as if to knit the stitch. careful not to pull the yarn too tightly.

26 Simple Steps to knitting

 Rib stitch

RIB STITCH When working a 1x1 rib on an

Rib is an elastic stitch that is most commonly used even number of stitches, you
will always work a K st first on
for welts and cuffs of garments, but used in its own every row. An odd number of
right can be very useful stitches will mean you have
to alternate between K and
P stitches at the start of

R
ib stitch gets its name from the vertical raised
each row.
and indented ridges of the worked fabric. When
alternate stitches of knit (K) and purl (P) are worked
along a row, you will notice that it is narrower than a piece
of stocking stitch (st st) worked over the same number of
stitches. This is because the fabric ‘draws in’, resulting in an
elasticity that is perfect for cuffs and waistbands.
Most often, a garment project will ask for a section of 1x1
rib at the start of all pieces; the term 1x1 simply means that
you will work a regular rib section of knit 1 (K1) stitch, then
purl 1 (P1) stitch all the way across the row. This will be clear
when you read the pattern.

“A garment project will

01
Knit 1 stitch Cast (bind) on the required number
of stitches as stated in the pattern, or for practice

ask for a section of 1x1 rib

purposes, cast (bind) on 20 stitches. With yarn at the
back of the work and cast (bind) on stitches on the

at the start”
needle in your left hand, knit 1 (K1) stitch.

03
Look for ‘Vs’ and ‘bumps’ Now that you have worked
your first row, when you turn your knitting to work the

02
Work all the stitches Your next stitch is a purl stitch, but next row, you will notice that you have alternate ‘Vs’
your yarn is at the back of your work, so bring the yarn and ‘bumps’ below the stitches on the needle. These
between your needles so that it is now at the front. Purl are handy guides to know what stitch to work next. If
(P) the next stitch. Now take the yarn back through your there is a ‘V’, knit (K) the stitch, and if there is a ‘bump’,
needles and knit the next stitch. Continue in this way purl (P) the stitch. After a few rows you will notice
until you have worked all the stitches. columns of alternate stitches.

Simple Steps to knitting 27

 Getting started

MOSS (SEED) STITCH

Combining knit and purl stitches can create a pretty moss (seed) stitch which,
when worked in conjunction with stocking stitch, looks great

“Garments worked in
M
oss (seed) stitch, which is also known as seed
stitch in the US, uses alternate knit (K) and purl (P)

moss (seed) stitch are

stitches to create a textured fabric. While it looks
rather complicated, this is a very easy stitch to work and looks

a little bulkier due to the

effective when worked in between sections of stocking stitch.
If you have mastered rib stitch, then the mechanics of working

raised ‘purl’ bumps”

moss (seed) stitch is not too dissimilar. You simply alternate
between knit and purl stitches along the row, then on the next
row you knit above a ‘bump’ and purl above a ‘v’. While it is
worked in a similar way to rib stitch, moss (seed) stitch actually

Variations
produces a flat fabric, which does not have an elastic quality,
so it would not be good to use for welts or cuffs, unless a
loose finish is required. A 2x2 moss (seed) stitch is where you K2 sts, then
Garments worked in moss (seed) stitch tend to be a little P2 sts along the row. The next row K the K (v)
bulkier due to the raised ‘purl’ bumps, making them the perfect stitches, and P the P (bump) stitches. On the third
cover-up for a cool day. Why not work up squares of the same row alternate the stitches, so K the P sts and P the K
stitches. On the fourth row you K the K (v) stitches,
stitch and row count in moss (seed) stitch in different colours,
and P the P ‘bump’ stitches again. Repeat these 4
and join them together to make a cot blanket, or something rows for chequerboard-effect fabric.
larger if you’re feeling ambitious?

02
Knit and purl stitches When you swap needles so that
the stitches to be worked are in your left hand, you

01
will notice alternate ‘v’ and ‘bump’ stitches. You have
Mimic the rib stitch Cast (bind) on 20 stitches. Start an even number of stitches to work so row 2 and all
your first row as you would with rib stitch: K1 stitch, P1 even numbered rows of moss (seed) stitch you will
stitch, remembering to bring your yarn back and forth start with a purl stitch, then alternate between knit and
through the needles between stitches, all the way to purl stitches to the end of the row. So effectively you
the end of the row. (Do not take yarn over the needles, purl when there is a ‘v’ and knit when there is a ‘bump’.
otherwise you will create extra stitches and holes in When you have finished, cast (bind) off your work using
your work.) the rib cast (bind) off following the pattern set.

28 Simple Steps to knitting

Make this pattern!
See how to use the moss stitch
to make this wonderfully snuggly
moss stitch neck warmer. It’s nice
and easy and should make up in
no time at all.

Simple Steps to knitting 29

 Getting started

JOINING A NEW YARN

If your project is going to use up more than one ball of yarn, then
you will need to join the next as seamlessly as possible

T
here are many things that you may like to knit in one your existing work is very simple to do and if done well can
colour that, because of their size, will need more make a seamless transition – even you won’t be able to tell
than one ball of yarn. Joining a new ball of yarn to where you made the change.

At the beginning of a row

01
Knit with the new yarn The simplest way to join a new ball
of yarn is at the beginning of a row. All you need to do is
drop the old yarn and start knitting with the new. After a
few stitches, tie the ends together. When you’ve finished
the piece, darn the ends in.

30 Simple Steps to knitting

 Joining a new yarn

In the middle of a row

01 02
Drop the old Sometimes it won’t be possible to join Pick up the new In the same way as you would at the
the new yarn at the end of the row. If you need to join end of a row, simply start knitting with the new yarn,
your new yarn in the middle of a row, drop the old yarn and after a few stitches, tie the ends together to secure
so that it rests down the back of the piece. them. Weave the ends in using duplicate stitch weaving
when you’re finished.

Felted join

02 03
Rub them together Between Knit away The two ends will be
your palms, rub the two ends joined. There will be a light bulge
together firmly, but gently. where the two have become

01
Pick up the ends Although The idea is to felt the fibres one, but this should be barely
this method only works with together using pressure, recognisable once it is knitted into
feltable animal fibres, it will moisture and heat. the fabric.
produce an almost seamless

“This method (at the beginning of the row)

join that can be used anywhere
in the row. Start by picking up

can also be used to simply join a different

the two ends of the old and
new yarn and placing them
in your palm, parallel to each
other and heading in opposite
directions. Moisten the ends coloured yarn, for example to incorporate a
stripe along the rows.”
with water, or simply licking
your palms will do.

Simple Steps to knitting 31

 Getting started

SIMPLE INCREASES
Not all knitting is worked straight; for garments and some other projects
you will need to increase the number of stitches you work

I
n order to change the shape of your
knitting, you’ll need to increase and
decrease the number of stitches that
you work. Here we will focus on increasing
(inc) stitches. There are many ways to
increase stitches, and some are more
decorative than others. We will show you
some of the most common ways to increase
the number of stitches that you work. Once If you have to make several
increases across the row
you become more experienced in knitting
for a designated number of
techniques, you’ll be able to understand the
rows, use stitch markers on
directions on patterns that instruct you to
your needle so that the
increase in alternative ways. increase positions are
Most increases add one or two stitches easily identified
at a time, and usually at the end of rows.
In order to keep a neat selvedge, you will
usually perform an increase one stitch in.
You’ll notice that the shaping will travel
diagonally, and sometimes the increase
stitch will form part of the design. If you
have to work increases on multiple rows, it’s
a good idea to keep a notebook and pen
to hand; this way you can note down how
many increases you have worked either by
tally charts or any other method that will
help you remember.

Knit into front and back of stitch (kfb)

01 02
Knit the stitch Knit (K) the Wind the yarn Wind the yarn
next stitch, but don’t drop the around the tip of the right needle

03
working loop off the left-hand as if working a knit stitch (K), Continue You have now created
needle. Insert the tip of the right catch the yarn and pull it through an extra stitch. Continue to work
needle into the back of the loop the loop, dropping the stitch off the rest of the row as instructed in
on the left needle. the left needle. your pattern.

32 Simple Steps to knitting

 Simple increases

Make 1 Knitwise (M1 or M1K)

01
Knit to increase Knit (K) to

03
the point in the pattern that Drop the loop Drop the loop

02
instructs you to increase Wind the yarn Insert the tip of the from the left needle. You have
(inc). Guide the tip of the left right needle into the back of the now ‘made’ another stitch. If you
needle and insert it under the raised strand, wind yarn around didn’t work into the back of the
horizontal strand between the needle tip as if to knit (K) the stitch, loop, you would create a hole in
previous and next stitch. and draw the yarn through. your work.

Purl into front and back of stitch (pfb)

01 02
Purl the next stitch Purl (P) the Wind the yarn Wind the yarn
next stitch, but don’t drop the around the tip of the right needle

03
working loop off the left-hand as if working a purl stitch, catch Continue You have now created
needle. Insert the tip of the right the yarn and pull it through the an extra stitch. Continue to work
needle into the back of the loop on loop, dropping the stitch off the the rest of the row as instructed in
the left needle from left to right. left needle. your pattern.

Make 1 Purlwise (M1 or M1P)

01
Work to increase Work to the

02 03
point in the pattern that instructs Wind the yarn insert the tip of the Drop the loop Drop the loop
you to increase. Guide the tip of right needle into the back of the from the left needle. You have
the left needle and insert it from raised strand from left to right, now ‘made’ another stitch. If you
front to back under the horizontal wind the yarn around the needle didn’t work into the back of the
strand between the previous and tip as if to purl the stitch, and draw loop, you would create a hole in
next stitch. the yarn through. your work.

Simple Steps to knitting 33

 Getting started

SIMPLE DECREASES
Use these simple stitches to shape your work or pair them with
increases to create texture and lace patterns

I
f you’re creating a garment that needs to get smaller as decreases, and will cause your work to lean to the right. In
it goes along, for example a hat, then you will need to order to make your work lean to the left, you will need to use
use decreases (dec) to reduce the number of stitches a different decrease (see slip slip knit (ssk) on page 51). These
on your needles, and therefore the size of your piece. decreases can be used together to create interesting shapes
Decreases can also be used together with increases (inc) to and textures in your work. These stitches can also be adapted
add decorative elements to your work. Knitting or purling to decrease by more than one stitch at a time by knitting/
two stitches together (k2tog or p2tog) is one of the simplest purling more than two together at a time.

Knit two together (k2tog)

02 03
Make a new stitch Knit (K) into
the two stitches by wrapping the Slant to the right Your stitch

01
Needle through two Insert the working yarn around the tip of count will now be reduced by
right-hand needle through the the right-hand needle, then pull it one, because two stitches have
second and then the first stitch through both loops to create the been turned into one. You will
on the right needle, from left to new stitch. Drop both of the old see that your decrease (dec)
right, as if to knit. stitches off the left-hand needle slants to the right.

Purl two together (p2tog)

02
Make a new stitch Purl (P) into
the two stitches by wrapping the

01 03
Needle through two Insert the working yarn around the tip of Slant to the right Your stitch
right-hand needle through the the right-hand needle, then pull it count will be reduced by one as
first and then the second stitch through both loops to create the you’ve joined two together. You
on the right needle, from right to new stitch. Drop both of the old will see that your decrease (dec)
left, as if to purl. stitches off the left-hand needle slants to the right.

34 Simple Steps to knitting

 Placing a stitch marker on
your needle at the point
where you need to decrease,
if you are carrying out
decreases on multiple rows
will help you keep
your place.

Simple Steps to knitting 35

 Getting started

YARN-OVER INCREASES
A more decorative than practical increase, yarn overs
add stitches, but also create a hole

C
ommon in lace work and often used for making become crossed when worked in the next row, which
eyelets, a yarn-over increase is made by looping closes the hole. Yarn overs are normally worked in
the yarn around the right-hand needle before between two stitches as opposed to at the beginning or
making the next stitch. It is important that the loop is end of a row in order to create decorative holes and gaps in
wrapped around the needle in the correct way or it will the knit.

As yarn-over increases are mostly

used to add decorative holes to
knitting, they will often be paired
with a decrease. Pair a double
yarn over with a k2tog before
the increase and a ssk
immediately after for a
pretty flower
bud effect.

Yarn over between knit stitches

01 02 03
Bring the yarn over In between Check stitch When you have Purl as usual When you reach
two stitches, bring the yarn completed the knit stitch, you will the yarn over (yo) on the next
forward (yf) and wrap it over the see that the yarn-over increase row, purl it through the front of
top of the right-hand needle. (yo) is correctly formed on the the loop in the usual way. This
Then work the next knit stitch in right-hand needle with the right will ensure it creates the open
the usual way. leg of the loop in front stitch below.

36 Simple Steps to knitting

 Yarn over increases

Yarn over between purl stitches Double yarn over

01 01
Bring the yarn over In between two stitches, bring the Bring the yarn over twice In between two knit stitches,
yarn backwards and wrap it over the top of the right- bring the yarn forward (yf) and wrap it over the top
hand needle. Work the next stitch as usual. of the right-hand needle. Then bring it to the front
between the needles and wrap it over the top of the
right-hand needle again.

02
Check stitch When you have completed the purl stitch,

02
you will see that the yarn-over increase (yo) is correctly Knit the next stitch With the yarn in the back, knit the
formed on the right-hand needle with the right leg of next stitch in the usual way. This creates two new loops
the loop in front. on the right-hand needle.

03 03
Knit as usual When you reach the yarn over (yo) Purl then knit When you reach the yarn overs on the
on the next row, knit it through the front of the loop next row (a purl row), purl the first and then knit the
in the usual way. This will ensure it creates the open second. This creates a bigger hole than a single yarn
stitch below. over that is great for buttonholes.

Simple Steps to knitting 37

 Getting started

TEXTURAL DECREASES
Use these decreases in order to add texture and direction
to your shaped knitting

I
n the same way that patterns call for stitches to be slip, slip, knit (ssk) is a common decrease on sock designs
increased (inc), you will sometimes need to decrease to ensure that the stitches on one side of the toe slant in
(dec) the number of stitches you work in order to the right direction. Ssk is used on right side of the triangle
create different shapes. We have already explained the basic to follow the contour of the shape to the bottom point, it is
decreases of knit two stitches together (k2tog), and purl coupled with k2tog ,which slants to the right on the other
two stitches together (p2tog), and while these are the most end of the row. A variety of decrease stitches are also used in
commonly used, the four decreases on this page can offer a lacework patterns, usually just before or just after a yarn-over
more subtle decorative stitch to your knitting. For example, increase to create pretty textural patterns.

Slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over (sl1, K1, psso)

01 03
Lift it up and over Lift the slipped
Drop a stitch Insert the tip of the stitch up and over the knitted stitch,
right needle into the next stitch

02
in much the same way as you
on the left needle as if to knit Pick up the stitch With the tip would do for casting off. You have
it, but instead slip it off the left of the left needle, insert it from now passed the slipped stitch over
needle without working it, then left to right into the front of the the knitted stitch and decreased the
knit the next stitch. slipped stitch. number of stitches by one.

Slip, slip, knit (ssk)

01 02
Slip it without working Insert the Knit them together Guide the tip

03
tip of the right needle into the of the left needle into the front Decrease You have now
next stitch on the left needle as loops of the two slipped stitches. decreased by one stitch, notice
if to knit it, but instead slip it off Wind the yarn anticlockwise how it slants to the left; this
the left needle without working it. around the tip of the right needle decrease is often used on the
Repeat for the next stitch. and knit the stitches together. right hand edge of knitted pieces.

Simple Steps to knitting

38
 Textural decreases

Slip, slip, purl (ssp) Double decreases

Knit three stitches together (k3tog)

This is essentially the same as k2tog. Guide the tip of the

01
right needle into the left side of the third stitch on the left
Slip two stitches Slip the next two stitches, individually, needle, then push it through the second and first stitch. Wind
knitwise (insert needle as if to knit the stitch, but yarn around needle and knit the three stitches together. Two
without working slip it from left to right needle). Insert stitches have been decreased.
the left needle into the front loops of both the slipped
stitches and transfer them back to the left needle.

Double slip decrease (sk2p)

Slip the next stitch knitwise from left to right needle, knit
the next two stitches together, then using the tip of the left

02
Pick up both stitches With the right needle at the back needle, insert it into the slipped stitch and lift it over the
of the work, insert it first from left to right into the worked stitch and off the needle.
second stitch, then into first stitch. Bring right-hand
needle tip to the front of work.

Slip 2, K1, pass slipped stitch over

(s2 K1 psso)
Insert the right needle into the first 2 stitches on the left
needle as if to k2tog, but slip them off onto the right needle,

03
Slip them off Wrap yarn anticlockwise around tip of K1, then insert the left needle into the two slipped stitches
right needle as if to purl, then draw yarn through both from left to right and lift them over the worked stitch and off
loops and slip them off the left needle. the needle

Simple Steps to knitting 39

 Getting started

DOUBLE-POINTED NEEDLES
Double-pointed needles (DPNs) are used to knit a tubular shape such as socks,
and are often used to make the yokes of jumpers

F
or centuries people have been knitting socks and daunting, when you actually get started you’ll see that the
stockings, and history books suggest that most of this process makes perfect sense. All you are doing is transferring
knitting was done on double-pointed needles (DPNs). the stitches of one needle to an empty needle, knitting around
Whole villages of women, men and children were part of the and around in a spiral.
sock knitting industry until the dawn of mechanisation and Socks are knit on short double-pointed needles (DPNs),
knitting machines made the process faster and cheaper. but longer ones are available, and these can be used to work
Now, though, sock knitting has become popular again, jumpers in the round, up to the armholes. The sleeves are
and while they can be made on a circular needle, they’re just then worked separately, in the round, then the yoke and neck
as easy to knit on four or five double-pointed needles. While can be worked in the round. This is the perfect way to knit for
the prospect of knitting with more than two needles can be those who dislike seaming.

02
Arrange stitches Evenly distribute the cast (bind) on
stitches across 3 or 4 needles – most sock patterns
suggest 3 needles but either way you will work in

01
the same way. Place the needles on a flat surface
Cast (bind) on stitches Cast (bind) on the number of and arrange as illustrated with the working tail of
stitches as specified in your pattern. If you’re starting yarn on the right and all cast (bind) on
with a rib, you need a nice stretchy cast (bind) on such loops facing inwards. Ensure
as the long tail cast (bind) on (page 20). that there is no twist
between the needles, as
this will show on your
first round.
If the stitches are too loose at

03
the needle junction, a ladder
Join the round Slip will appear in your knitting. To
the first stitch off the
avoid this, start knitting with
left needle, onto the
the new needle on top of
right needle to meet
your last cast (bind) on the old, and pull the
stitch. Insert the tip of the first stitch tight.
left needle into the last cast
(bind) on stitch and slip it over the
stitch you just slipped and onto the left needle. Now
you are ready to work. With your fourth needle, start to
knit in the round. Place a stitch marker between the first
and second stitch to clearly identify the beginning of
the rounds.

40 Simple Steps to knitting

 Circular needles

CIRCULAR NEEDLES
Using a circular needle to work garments in the round, means
that you won’t need to sew up as many seams

W
e’ve already looked at knitting in the round
If the pattern requires
using 4 double-pointed needles, but if you
shaping via increases and
find that method a bit too fiddly, try knitting
decreases, use stitch markers
with a circular needle. Working in this way, you will create of a different colour to show
a tube of knitting, and because the work is never turned, where these actions
the right side is always facing you. To create a stocking need to take place on
stitch finish, simply knit every round. For a garter stitch, the round.
alternate rounds of knit and purl. Working in the round
is the perfect way to knit for those who don’t like to join
seams. Circular needles come in a variety of lengths,
making them ideal to knit an array of garments from socks
to cowls and full-sized sweaters. If you do plan to knit a
sweater on a circular needle, be aware that the weight
of the garment can be quite cumbersome and heavy,
although when working a lot of stitches, most of their
weight is distributed on the cable, which is easier on the
hands and wrists compared to working the same number
of stitches on straight needles.

01 02 03
Mark the round Holding the Join the round When joining the Work in the round Continue to
ends of the circular needle round, ensure that the stitches work in the round as stated on
in each hand, cast on as you haven’t twisted around the the pattern. As you are knitting
normally would. Once you have cable, and all the stitches face a tube, the right side will always
cast on the required number of into the middle of the cable. be facing you, and to create a
stitches stated in the pattern, slip When working the first stitch of stocking stitch, simply knit every
a stitch marker onto the right- the first round, pull the yarn with round. Each time you reach the
hand needle. This will mark the some tension. stitch marker, slip it from one
beginning and end of the round. needle to the next.

Simple Steps to knitting 41

 Getting started

TWISTED STITCHES & CABLES

Often worked in knit stitches on a purl background, cable and
twisted stitches offer a raised detail

A
dding cables to a piece of knitting is one of the plaits, to more complicated Celtic knots, all can be worked to
easiest ways to add the ‘wow factor’ to your work. produce the archetypal Aran sweater. Going back 2-300 years,
The technique is worked by displacing a set of stitches not only were twisted patterns used for decorative purposes,
onto a cable needle, working the next stitch(es), then working but the thick fabric that these stitches produced combined
the stitches from the cable needle. with wool yarn also created some very warm garments for
The number of stitches involved and the way they are fishermen to wear on their trawlers. Currently, twisted and
twisted by holding them in front or behind your work will cable stitches are very popular for interior design, featuring on
determine the pattern that can be created. From ropes and cushions, throws and even replicated in porcelain for vases.

Narrowing fabric
When you knit a piece with cable stitches and twists, be
aware that it can have a significant effect on the width of
your fabric compared to when the same number of stitches
are worked over stocking stitch. Sometimes the length
is slightly reduced too. So if you’re thinking of adding a
column or two of cable pattern to your favourite stocking
stitch pattern, work up a swatch first to see what difference
it will make to the overall width.

Right Twist (T2R)

03
Crossover stitch You should

01
Knit the stitch Ensuring your yarn see a crossover stitch that slants
is at the back of your work insert to the right. While the sample
the tip of the right-hand needle shown is worked on a knit

02
into the second stitch on the left- Work the second stitch Now background, you could also work
hand needle. Work as if to knit knit (K) the second stitch on the a purl stitch either side of the
the stitch without slipping it off needle and pull both loops from 2 knit stitches, so that it is even
the needle. the left-hand needle. more prominent.

42 Simple Steps to knitting

 Twisted stitches & cables

Left Twist (T2L)

01 02
Position the needles With your

03
yarn at the back of your knitting, Wind the yarn Wind the yarn Knit the first stitch Now knit (K)
insert the tip of your right needle around the tip of the needle and the first stitch of the left needle
behind the first stitch on the left draw through behind the first and pull both loops from the left
needle and into the front of the stitch, without slipping the stitch needle, you should see that the
second stitch. off the needle. twist slants to the left.

4 stitch, cable front (C4F)

01 03
The front Once you have worked
the setup rows, work to the knit Slide the stitches Without

02
stitches for the cable. Slip the twisting the cable needle, slide
Knit 2 stitches Now you need to
next 2 stitches onto the cable the stitches to the right end of
knit the 2 stitches from the left-
needle and leave it at the front of the needle and knit them onto
hand needle.
your work. the left needle.

4 stitch, cable back (C4B)

01 03
The back Once you have worked
the setup rows, work to the knit Slide the stitches Without

02
stitches for the cable. Slip the twisting the cable needle, slide
Knit 2 stitches Now knit (K)
next 2 stitches onto the cable the stitches to the right end of
the two stitches from the left-
needle and push it to the back of the needle and knit them onto
hand needle.
your work. the left needle.

Simple Steps to knitting 43

 Getting started

I-CORD
The i-cord is a tubular piece of knitting that is worked
using two double-pointed needles (DPNs)

I
f you’re not used to working on double-pointed I-cords look very effective stitched to the edge of a garment
needles (DPNs), knitting an i-cord can initially seem in a contrasting colour and can be added in loops to form
quite daunting, however, making one is a great button holes for toggles.
introduction to DPNs. While you can make great-looking I-cords are usually worked over between 3 to 6 stitches, on a
things for the home, for things such as coaster and needle size that fits the weight of the yarn (for example 4mm
placemats, i-cords are also perfect for drawstrings and straps for DK yarn). They can be worked in one colour, spiralled for a
for bags, headbands, belts, tie for a hooded top, and more. textured finish, and in 2 colours.

Basic i-cord

01 02
Knit the first row For a practise i-cord, cast (bind) on Continue knitting The yarn should be in the back, but
5 stitches using 2 DPNs and knit the first row. *While on the furthest stitch from the end of the tip of the
turning the needle holding the stitches and the bumps needle. Taking the empty needle, insert it in the first
to the back, hold it in your left hand and slide the stitch and with a taut tension pull the yarn and knit the
stitches to the other end of the needle. stitch. Knit the other 4 stitches.

44 Simple Steps to knitting

 I-cord

Twisted i-cord

Cast (bind) on 3 stitches and

work as for the basic i-cord,
but rather than knit every
row, alternate between knit

03
Even out Repeating from * in step 1, continue to and purl stitches, to create a
knit the i-cord to the desired length. Every now and garter stitch effect. This will
again give the cord a little tug to even out the stitches create an elastic cord.
and rows.

“I-cords are usually worked over For a tighter i-cord, use

between 3 to 6 stitches”
the next needle size
down than the
one recommended for
the yarn.

Striped i-cord

02
Start alternating On the third stitch, swap to yarn A

01
Cast (bind) on Cast (bind) on 5 stitches using yarn shade and knit it. Continue to work the i-cord as set in the
A and knit the first stitch as normal. Join Yarn shade B basic i-cord tutorial, alternating between yarn A and
then knit the stitch. B, working yarn A above yarn A, and yarn B above
yarn B stitches.

Simple Steps to knitting 45

 Getting started

WORKING WITH TWO COLOURS

Over these two pages we will look at Fair Isle knitting and how
to cope with the two different yarns as you knit

F
air Isle knitting also goes by the names of Jacquard, 4ply or DK weight yarns as anything thicker would result in a
stranded, two colour and double knitting. Where very bulky piece of clothing.
intarsia knitting is creating an image or shape via As you work across the row, you will carry all the yarns with
stitches in blocks of colour, Fair Isle knitting carries two or you, alternating between colours as you follow the chart. The
more colours along the row on a repeated pattern and is yarns need to be stranded (or woven in) as you knit, other wise
usually worked in stocking (stockinette) stitch. the loops (floats) on the back can easily get caught on fingers,
Due to the stranding/carrying of the yarns at the back of the buttons and other fastenings. You must also be careful not to
work, Fair Isle garments tend to be thick and therefore very pull the floats too tightly, otherwise an uneven tension (gauge)
warm. Because of this it is usual to work these garments in and puckered fabric will result.

Fair Isle

01
Work a knit row With both colour
yarns at the back of your work
on the knit row, follow the chart
and work the stitches in the
first colour, then change when

03
necessary by dropping it and Keep your yarn even For best
picking up the second colour.

02
results, make sure that your yarn
When you knit the first colour On a purl row On a purl row, is evenly tensioned (gauged). This
again do not pull it too tightly. bring both yarns to the front. Keep will give you a nice flat fabric.
So that you don’t carry a colour the one you are working in your At first this may be tricky, but
across a large number of stitches, right hand and let the other fall to practice, and learning to hold
cross it over with the other yarn your left. When you change the each yarn in a different hand, will
every third stitch. yarn over swap their positions. ensure great results in no time.

Hold both yarns in the right hand

If you don’t think you can manage two yarns in different
hands, hold the first yarn as you usually would over your
index finger, then the second yarn on your middle finger.

Hold both yarns in the left hand

This method is best to use if you prefer to knit the continental
way. Hold one yarn on the index finger, and the second yarn
on the middle finger of the left hand. ‘Catch’ the yarn with
your needle, than ‘throwing’ it around the needle.

46 Simple Steps to knitting

 Working with two colours

Holding the yarns

01
Start stitching When working
two colours, hold one yarn in

02
your right hand (RH) as you Change colours Now change
would normally do, then in a colours. Insert the tip of the right
mirror image of your right hand, needle into the next stitch, with

03
hold the second colour in your the index finger of the left hand Pull it through Now pull the
left hand (LH). On a practice guide the second colour to the new stitch through as you would
piece, work two stitches in yarn front of the tip, wind it over the on a regular knit stitch, keeping
from the right hand. needles and towards the right. tension (gauge) on the left yarn.

How to weave yarn on the wrong side

Weaving in left yarn
With one yarn in each hand, keep the
left yarn above the needles when not If you are adding a Fair Isle
weaving it in. On both knit and purl pattern chart to your stocking
rows, lift the float, insert the right needle (stockinette) stitch pattern,
into the next stitch ready to work it, and note that you will need more
under the float. Simply knit or purl as yarn than originally stated
normal under the float and your yarn will
due to the floats being
be carried.
carried.

Weaving in right yarn

This is a little more tricky than weaving the
left yarn. When not weaving in, keep the right
yarn to the right of the needle tips. Insert the
point of the right needle into the next stitch
as if to work it and wind the right float around
the needle – on a Knit row wind as if to knit,
on a Purl row wind the float under then over
the needle. Wind the working yarn of the left
hand around the needle as normal. Return
your right-hand yarn to the normal position,
then draw stitch through with the left yarn.
 Getting started

COLOUR WORK
Adding different colours in horizontal stripes is a fairly easy and simple way to make
a plain piece stand out

T
here are several different ways to add colour to added in different sizes and even different fibres to
knitting and some are a lot more complicated than create interesting textures. You can introduce stripes to any
others. For example, Fair Isle and intarsia knitting are single-colour pattern without affecting the tension (gauge) or
more advanced techniques that will take a bit of practise and shape of the knitting. Here are just a few ways to add colour
concentration to grasp. However, one fairly easy technique to your knitting. They all have a right side, which is shown in
of adding colour is to work in horizontal stripes, which can be these swatches.

Two-colour garter-stitch stripe Two-colour knit and purl pinstripe

Worked in garter stitch, this stripe pattern uses two colours Working with two colours (A and B), begin by knitting six rows
(A and B) that are alternated every two rows. To work the of A in stocking stitch. Then drop A at the side and knit two
pattern, knit two rows of A, then two rows of B, and continue rows of B. This will create a purl ridge in the second colour
until the desired length. When you change colours, drop the on the right side. Repeat this for a pinstripe effect. To avoid
yarn not in use at the side of the work and simply pick it up loose strands of B at the edge, wrap A around B at the start of
again when needed. every RS row.

Five-colour stocking-stitch stripe

Textured stocking-stitch stripe
To work stripes in multiple colours and carry the colours up
the side of the work, use a circular needle. Work back and
forth in rows in stocking stitch, changing colour as and when To add a different texture as well as colour, use a different
you like. If a yarn you need to pick up is at the opposite end, type of yarn when you add a stripe. This stripe is worked with
push all the stitches to the other end of the circular needle. a chunky yarn and a 4ply yarn. Work in stocking stitch (st st)
Then work the next row in the same stitch as the last. on circular needles.

48 Simple Steps to knitting

 Short row shaping

SHORT ROW SHAPING

Learn how to create definition in garments by adding shape and smoothing edges –
all you need to master is the technique of working partial rows

T
he technique of short row shaping is used in a working back along the stitches just worked. This means that
multitude of patterns to structurally shape knitting. those stitches have been worked for two more rows compared
Whether to add more definition to the bust of a to the rest of the knitting.
sweater, create a rounded shoulder, or add the perfect curve Depending on the pattern, you may knit partway and
to the heel of a sock, this simple but effective technique will return for many rows, or just work a few short rows at regular
deliver great results. While it is mainly seen on a stocking intervals. One problem that is caused by working short rows
base, it can also be effective when used on a garter stitch. is that a hole will form where the knitting has been turned,
Also called ‘turning’, the technique is achieved by working depending on the pattern worked. Below are two ways to
the stitches part way along a row, then turning your work and avoid holes.

Tie or Wrap (and turn, w&t)

01 02
Short row shaping Work the number of stitches stated Wrapped stitches Once you have completed the short
on the pattern for the short row shaping. Take the yarn row, when working across all stitches, the wrap may
to the other side of the work through the needles. interfere with your pattern. Work to the stitch that has
Slip the next stitch purlwise (pwise), then take the yarn been wrapped and work it together with the stitch that
to the original side of the work and turn. Sometimes, has been wrapped by inserting the needle into the loop
slipping the first stitch purlwise gives a smoother finish. of the wrap from underneath and then into the stitch.

Use ‘over’ to avoid holes

01
Turn position Work the number of stitches to the
turn position. Take the yarn to the other side of the
work though the needles, then bring the yarn back
to the original side over the needle (creating an
‘over’). Continue to work the short row. On the next
long row, if working knit stitches, knit the yarn over
and the next stitch together. On a purl row, drop
the ‘over’, slip the next stitch, pick up the over and
place it on the left needle, then purl the over and the
slipped stitch together.

Simple Steps to knitting 49

 Getting started

FIXING A DROPPED STITCH

It’s easy to panic when you drop a stitch, but there’s really no
need to worry, as it is very simple to fix

I
f a stitch drops off one of your needles, don’t worry. crochet hook or cable needle as soon as you can to prevent
This is called a dropped stitch and there are steps you any further damage. If a dropped stitch is left, it can unravel
can take to get it back on the needle. If you see the stitch all the way to the cast (bind)-on edge. When this happens,
come off the needle, fix it immediately by picking it up with you are left with a vertical column of horizontal strands that
the tip of whichever needle it has dropped from, being sure used to be stitches – this is called a ladder, as the unravelled
to keep the right leg of the stitch on top. However, if the stitches look like rungs on a ladder. Follow these steps to get
stitch has begun to unravel from the work, secure it with a your stitches back where they’re supposed to be.

Pick up a dropped stitch

01 02
Locate your dropped stitch If your dropped stitch has Pick up the stitch With the left-hand needle (you can
only unravelled by one row and you have what looks also use the right to help you if it’s easier), pick up the
like one rung on a ladder, the solution is very simple. dropped stitch, from front to back, leaving the strand at
the back of the work.

03 04
Fix the stitch Move the dropped stitch (the first one
Get the strand Now move the strand onto the left- you picked up) off the needle, making sure you lift it
hand needle, also from front to back. over the strand. This has remade the stitch that was
dropped, and you can continue knitting.

50 Simple Steps to knitting

 Fixing a dropped stitch

Fix a ladder

01
Crochet hook If the stitch has unravelled even further

02
and you have a ladder, it is going to be a bit trickier to Grab the stitch With the right side (RS) of your work
fix, but uses the same technique as fixing one rung of facing you, put the crochet hook through the dropped
a dropped stitch. After you have secured the stitch to stitch, from front to back. If you need to, pull the
stop it unravelling further, you’ll need to get a crochet knitting apart slightly so that you can better see the
hook to fix the error. ladder of strands.

03 04
Begin the climb Put the crochet hook underneath the Make the stitch Pull the strand through the dropped
first strand and hook it. stitch with the crochet hook, making sure the
dropped stitch leaves the hook. You have now
corrected one row.

05
Continue Keep hooking the strands through to make
new stitches, being sure to work in order. When you
have completed the ladder and come to the final stitch,
slip it off the crochet hook and onto the left-hand
needle. The mistake is corrected.
Don’t forget to work in a
pattern. If you’re fixing a
ladder that has knit and
purl stitches, make sure
the knit side is facing
you as you complete
each row.
 FINISHING
54 Picking up stitches
56 Buttonholes
64 Pockets
68 Add a picked up/folded hem
69 Picot hem
70 Blocking
72 Seams & edging
76 Fastenings

72

56

76

68

52 Simple Steps to knitting

54 70

64

Simple Steps to knitting 53

 Finishing

PICKING UP STITCHES
To add borders to your finished work, you will first need to
pick up the stitches on the edge that you wish to ‘finish’

I
f the pattern you’re following calls for a border, you following a pattern, it should specify which size needle
may find that you need to pick up the edges along to pick up the stitches with and the required number of
your finished piece of work. This is a technique that stitches for you to pick up. In these instructions a contrasting
even experienced knitters can find challenging, so careful colour yarn has been used to demonstrate the technique,
preparation and lots of practice will help. When picking up however, picking up stitches in a matching yarn will hide any
stitches, always have the right side (RS) of the yarn facing imperfections. If your pattern calls for a contrasting border,
you, as it creates a ridge on the wrong side (WS). If you’re start with the new colour on the first row of the border.

Along a cast (bind) on/off edge

01
From front to back Insert a knitting needle into the
first stitch from front to back, leaving a long, loose tail.
Wrap the working yarn around the tip of the needle and
pull it through, as if knitting a stitch. Continue along
the edge, picking up and knitting (K) one stitch through
every cast (bind)-on or cast (bind)-off stitch.

Along row ends

01
Mark stitches On light-weight or medium-weight yarn,

02
pick up about 3 stitches for every 4 row ends. Mark out Pick up stitches Insert the needle tip through the
which stitches you are going to pick up by placing a pin centre of the edge stitches and pick them up in the
on the 1st of every 4 row ends. You will only pick up the same way as for along a cast (bind)-on edge. Make
stitches in between the pins. sure you skip each 4th row end.

54 Simple Steps to knitting

 Picking up stitches

With a crochet hook

01 02
Hook stitches Being sure to use a crochet hook that fits Transfer to needle When a new loop has been
through the stitches, insert the hook through the first stitch. formed on the crochet hook, transfer it onto a
Wrap the hook behind and around the yarn from left to knitting needle. Repeat this for all stitches.
right and pull through.

Picking up stitches around a curve

Here the dots show

the position of
picked-up stitches

01 02
Pick up Pick up stitches following this diagram as a guide. Knit the border When the number of stitches stated
Pick up a stitch in each cast (bind)-off stitch and three on the pattern have been picked up, knit the border
stitches for every four rows. Ignore corner stitches along as instructed.
the curve.

Tips for picking up stitches • If working the border in a contrasting, pick up

stitches in the shade that worked the main piece, as
• Try using a knitting needle smaller than the needle this will hide imperfections.
used to make the project to pick up stitches. • Always catch a whole loop; just working into the
• Be careful not to split the yarn when inserting the edge loop can cause holes and distort knitting, and
needle into the fabric. doesn’t hide the edge
• The first row you work after picking up stitches will • When picking up stitches ensure the right side is
be a wrong side row. facing you.

Simple Steps to knitting 55

 Finishing

BUTTONHOLES
It’s more important than you might first think to find the best buttonhole for your
project. Our guide will talk you through the various options and advantages

B
uttons are a very common fastening for hand- buttonhole to work, take into account the stretch of the fabric;
knitted projects. Whether on the front of a cardigan, sometimes knitting a strand of colour-matched sewing thread
the neckline of a sweater or to close a bag, buttons just on the buttonhole stitches can help to reinforce the hole.
not only offer a secure closure, but with the myriad of styles Also, if you have worked a horizontal buttonhole, the button
available, they can also add a decorative element to the will rarely sit in the centre of the hole; instead it will move to
finished piece. the outer side. Often, buttonhole bands and button bands
The most popular form of buttonhole is the eyelet hole, (the part that the buttons are sewn onto) will be added to the
usually created by working 2 stitches together (k2tog), then garment separately.
forming a yarn over (yo). This creates an elastic hole to pass a Loose-fitting jackets made in thicker yarns will need fewer
button through. buttons than a fitted cardigan worked in fine yarn such as 4ply.
However, over the next six pages, we’ll show you how There are no rules for button placement, but they must be
to make the various buttonholes available to knitters and evenly and consistently spaced. Sometimes, groups of buttons
what projects they are best suited to. When choosing which can make a great feature.

Spacing buttons
How many buttons
1cm/0.5in If the pattern you are
5 Rows working from doesn’t tell
30 you where to lace the
Rows
buttons, it is easy to figure
out. Work the edge that
you will sew the buttons
30
Rows on to, before working the
buttonhole band.
On the buttonhole
30
Rows band, place a pin or loose
stitch of contrasting yarn
50cm/19.75in 1cm (0.4in) from the top
30
180 Rows of the band and another
Rows
1cm (0.4in) from the
bottom – this marks the
top and bottom buttons.
30 Now measure the gap
Rows
between, and evenly space
pins to show the other
button positions.
30
Rows Based on the button
band, make a note of
1cm/0.5in
how many rows and
5 Rows stitches need to be worked
between each buttonhole.

56 Simple Steps to knitting

 Buttonholes

Sewn button loops Knitted button loop

01
Form a loop Mark the position and width of the

01
loops with pins. Thread a tapestry needle with
matching or contrasting yarn, and pass it through the Cast (bind) on and off In the same or contrasting yarn
knitting, back to front, pulling it most of the way, but as the knitted piece, cast (bind) on the number of
leaving a small tail. Hold the tail in place as you take stitches to match the length of loop you wish to create.
the needle back through the knitting at the 2nd pin Now cast (bind) off all stitches.
position to form a loop.

02
Create a double loop Take the needle from back to
front through the 1st pin position again to give you
a double loop of yarn with a short tail (this tail will
be hidden when the loop is worked).

02
Attach the loops First, folding the loop in half, attach
the ends of the loop to the edge of the reverse side of
your knitting.

Button choice

03
Pass the needle through Pass the needle through the
Match the size of the button to the weight of the yarn.
yarn loop, around the back, and through the loop you
have just created. Pull tight. Continue to cover the Delicate yarns suit small, pretty patterned buttons, while
doubled yarn loop and tail. Once finished, pass the heavier fabrics, worked in yarns such as Aran or Chunky
needle through a few of the stitches on the loop and really complement toggles, leather or wooden buttons.
cut the yarn.

Simple Steps to knitting 57

 Finishing

Simple or chain eyelet Open eyelet buttonhole

01 01
Wind the yarn over the needle Work along the row to Wind the yarn Knit to the position of the buttonhole.
the position of the buttonhole. Wind the yarn over the Wind the yarn over the needle (yon) from front to back,
needle (yon). slip 1 stitch (sl1), knitwise (kwise). Knit the next stitch.

02 02
Work 2 stitches together Knit the next 2 stitches Pass over Pass the slipped stitch over (psso) the
together (k2tog). You can see that the yarn over knit stitch. (You’ve added a stitch with the yarn
(yo) has created a hole in your knitting and an over (yo), but taken one away with the pass slipped
extra stitch on your needle. By working 2 stitches stitch over decrease.)
together you have kept the number of stitches on
the needle the same.

03 03
Purl the yarn over When you work the next row, simply Purl the yarn over When you work the next row, make
purl the yarn over (yo) as you would normally. This type sure you purl the yarn over (yo) as you would normally.
of buttonhole is perfect for baby clothes, or when a
small button is required.

58 Simple Steps to knitting

 Buttonholes

Reinforced eyelet

02
Slip the stitch When you reach the yarn over needles

01
(yons) on the next row, slip the stitch directly before
Work the row When working on a stocking stitch (st the yons knitwise (kwise). You should knit the 2 yons
st) background, knit to the position of the buttonhole together, but don’t slip them off the needle.
and yarn over needle (yon), taking the yarn front to
back, then over the needle. Work as stated to the end
of the row. On the next row, purl to the yon stitch, slip
it purlwise (pwise), then create another yon. Work the
rest of the row as stated.

04
Stronger eyeletThe eyelet you have created looks just
the same as the simple eyelet, but will be stronger. This
makes it a great option for children’s knits, or garments
that will get a lot of wear.

03
Knit 3 stitches together Pass the slipped stitch over
the stitch just made, as you would in a cast (bind) off. The earliest known button, which was made from
Finally knit 3 stitches together (the yarn overs (yos) shell, is estimated to be to be 5,000 years old.
plus the next stitch on the needle).

Simple Steps to knitting 59

 Finishing

Horizontal one-row buttonhole

01 02
Work the yarn through and back Work to the point Slip and pass the stitches Slip the next stitch purlwise
in the row for the buttonhole. Bring the yarn through (pwise), then pass over the previously slipped stitch
the needles to the front of the work, slip the next stitch (sl st). Continue to do this until the stated number of
purlwise (pwise), and take the yarn back (yb). stitches have been slipped and passed. Slip the last
stitch on the right needle back on to the left needle.

03
Cast (bind) on Turn your work so that the wrong side
is facing, and using the cable cast (bind) on method,
cast (bind) on the same number of stitches that were

04
passed over. Cast (bind) on an extra stitch, but before Continue the row Turn the work and slip the 1st stitch
transferring it to the left needle, make sure that you knitwise (kwise). Pass the next stitch over this, and
bring the yarn forward (yf), and add a stitch to the continue to work the rest of the row as stated.
left needle.

60 Simple Steps to knitting

 Buttonholes

Horizontal buttonhole – buttonhole cast (bind)

01 02
Cast (bind) off With the right side facing, work to the Wind the yarn On the next row, work to the
buttonhole position. Work another 2 stitches, and pass buttonhole cast (bind) off section. Dropping the left
the 1st over the 2nd. Continue to cast off the stated needle, hold the yarn in your right hand, and with your
number of stitches. Slip the next stitch knitwise (kwise) left thumb pointing down, wind the yarn from back to
onto the right needle and pass over the last cast off front around thumb. Bringing the thumb to an upright
loop. Pulling yarn with some tension (gauge), continue position, you have twisted the loop. Insert the tip of the
the rest of the row as stated. right needle into the loop.

03
Pull the yarn tight Wind the yarn around the tip of the

04
right needle from back to front, and then moving the Continue the row Continue to make stitches in this
thumb, take the loop over the end of the right needle. way until you have replaced the required number of
Remove your thumb and pull the yarn tightly, holding stitches. Work to the end of the row as stated.
the stitch in place with your finger if necessary.

Simple Steps to knitting 61

 Finishing

Vertical button hole

02
Work the stitches Turn the work, slip the 1st stitch
purlwise (pwise), then purl the rest of the row. Work
the stitches that fall to the right of the buttonhole for

01
Slip onto a stitch holder For ease, instructions will the required number of rows as stated on your pattern,
assume the pattern is worked in stocking stitch (st ending on a wrongside row, slipping the 1st stitch of all
st). With right side facing, work to the position of the purl rows. Cut the yarn. Slip the stitches from the holder
buttonhole. Slip the rest of the stitches from the left- onto the empty needle, then slip the stitches from the
hand needle onto a stitch holder. right side of the buttonhole onto the stitch holder.

03
Create a make 1 Slip the 1st stitch knitwise (kwise) and

04
create a make 1 increase (m1) (see page 37). Knit to the Restore the correct number of stitches Transfer all of
end of the row. Continue to work in stocking stitch (st the stitches to the same needle and in the correct order,
st), slipping the 1st stitch of all knit rows, until you have ready with the right side facing. Knit to buttonhole,
worked the same number of rows as the previous side knitting the two hole-edge stitches together in order to
ending with a wrong side row. Cut the yarn. restore the correct number of stitches on the needle.

62 Simple Steps to knitting

 Buttonholes

Sloping (diagonal) buttonhole

02
Continue Turn work and knit to the yarn over (yo)
stitch. Knit into the back of the loop, knit the last stitch.
Repeating from the * symbol in step 1, continue to

01
Purl to the end On a right side row, knit to the work the required number of rows.
buttonhole position. Transfer the stitches left on the
left-hand needle to a stitch holder. Turn your knitting
and *slip the 1st stitch, purlwise (pwise). Wind the yarn
over the needle (yon) from the back to the front and
purl to the end of the row.

If you would like to stick

with convention, then
place men’s buttonholes
on the left side and
women’s on the right

04
Work the two sides together On the next row, *purl to

03
Transfer the other stitches Leaving a long tail, cut your the last 3 stitches, purl 2 together (p2tog), purl the last stitch.
yarn, place the stitches just worked on a stitch holder, Knit the next row, slipping the 1st stitch. Repeat from * until
and transfer the 1st set of stitches back onto your the same number of rows have been worked. Cut the yarn.
needle. With the right side facing, join in yarn, slip 1 Transfer the stitches back to the needles with the right side
stitch (sl1) knitwise (kwise) and create a make 1 increase facing. Rejoin the yarn. Knit across row to the buttonhole,
(m1). Knit to the end of the row. work the two side edges together.

Simple Steps to knitting 63

 Finishing

POCKETS
Whether practical or decorative, there are several ways you
can insert a pocket into your project

H
ere we will look at three of the most common ways stitches, but you can also work it in the same colour as the rest
of adding a pocket to a knitted project or garment. of the pattern. This type of pocket is perfect for a patterned
First is the patch pocket: this is added to your knitting background, such as cable.
once you have finished it. You can add lots of fun to sweaters We have a pocket that is perfect for cardigans and hooded
and cushion covers by working the pocket in an outrageously projects, the vertical pocket. This is usually inset on the edge of
contrasting yarn, or even working an interesting shape such a panel with the pocket lining worked at the same time.
as a hexagon, closing all but the top side. To work this pocket

“Add fun by working the

you will pick up the bottom edge of stitches then work the
panel, which will be sewn on later.
Second is the horizontal slit pocket – many find this neater

pocket in an outrageously
than the patch pocket because the lining is worked separately
and the opening is more discreet. It is the pocket that most

contrasting yarn”
patterns will call for. The example shown here shows the lining
worked in a contrast colour to more clearly show you the

Keep a tally chart near your

knitting so that you know
how many rows you’ve
worked. You might get called
away from your knitting
and forget what you’ve
done

64 Simple Steps to knitting

 Pockets

Patch pocket

02
Secure it Thread the end of the yarn you are using
for the pocket, take it through the right side of the
knitted panel, at the bottom-left corner of the pocket
position, and secure it on the wrong side. With a

01
crochet hook, insert the point into the centre of the
Position the panel Once you have completed the ‘v’ of the first stitch on the bottom-right corner of the
garment panel, use a contrasting yarn and tapestry pocket position. Take the point below the top loop,
needle to ‘tack’ and outline the pocket position. then back out to the front. Catch the yarn with the
end of the hook and pull through to make a loop.

03
Work it up Transfer the loop to a knitting needle,
keeping an even tension. Continue to pick up stitches
with the crochet hook and transferring them to your
needle until you have the required number of stitches

04
on your needle. Turn the work, so that the needle with
stitches to be worked is in your left hand, and starting Finish it off Gently block the pocket panel, avoiding
with a wrong side row, work the number of rows the welt, and pin in place on the knitted panel.
required. You can add a garter stitch or ribbed welt to Remove the tacked stitches. Join the sides to the
the top of the pocket for a neat finish. panel with mattress stitch, darn in ends.

Simple Steps to knitting 65

 Finishing

Horizontal slit project

01 02
Work on position First work the pocket lining as stated Continue the rows On the next row, work to 1 stitch
in your pattern – this will generally be 2 stitches wider before the cast (bind) off stitches, and with the wrong
than the cast (bind)-off edge of the pocket. You can side of the pocket lining facing you, work together
leave this panel on a spare needle or stitch holder the last stitch and the first stitch of the pocket lining,
until you are ready to work it. Now knit to the pocket then work across all but the last stitch of the pocket.
position and with the right side of the work facing Work this stitch together with the first stitch of
you, cast (bind) off the required number of stitches. the main piece, then work across the rest of main
Continue to work to the end of the row. piece stitches.

03 04
Or try this variation… Rather than casting (binding) off
Attach the sides and base Once you have finished the stitches on the first step, transfer the pocket top
working the garment, attach the sides and base of the stitches to a stitch holder. Once you have completed
pocket to the wrong side of your work. the knitted panel, transfer the pocket top stitches to a
needle and work a rib or garter stitch welt.

66 Simple Steps to knitting

 Pockets

Inset pocket

01
Start the pattern Work your pattern as stated, then on

02
a right-side row, work to the pocket position. Transfer
remaining stitches from the left-hand needle to a stitch Work on the lining Transfer the stitches from the first
holder. Turn the work and on the wrong side, knit 2 or stitch holder to a needle ready to work with right side
3 stitches to form a garter stitch border, then work to facing. Rejoin yarn and using the cable cast (bind) on
the end of the row. Continue to work the knitted panel method, cast (bind) on the required number of stitches
until you have worked enough rows for the height of for the pocket lining. Knit across the row, then turn and
the pocket, keeping the garter stitch edge and ending working on just these stitches, work the same number
with a wrong side row. You can keep the stitches of rows for the lining as you worked for the front of the
worked on a spare needle or transfer them to a stitch pocket. Leave stitches on the needle.
holder and cut yarn.

03
Join the lining To join the pocket lining to the main
piece, transfer the stitches from the holder to a

04
needle. With right side facing, work until the same
number of stitches that you cast (bound) on for the Finish up Continue until all stitches have been worked
pocket lining are left on the right needle. With the lining together. Knit to end of row. Once you have completed
stitches at the back, work together the first 2 stitches of your knitted panel, you can pin in place the pocket
both needles. lining and sew it to the front.

Simple Steps to knitting 67

 Finishing

ADD PICKED UP/ FOLDED HEM

Use this method to create a good thick hem in stocking (stockinette) stitch.
It’s ideal for smock type sweaters and loose-fitting sleeve cuffs

01
Work the hem Cast (bind) on the number stitches

02
required, using a needle one size smaller than you’ll
use for the main body of the garment. Work the inner Transfer stitches With the cast (bind) on edge
hem to the length required, ending on a knit row. If uppermost, right side (RS) facing and a smaller needle,
using two colours, change yarn now. Knit the next row pick up and knit through the centre of each cast (bind)
(to create a fold line), then change to larger needles on stitch using a length of the main body colour yarn.
and work the same number of rows as worked on the Transfer these stitches so that the point of the needle is
first part of the hem, ending on a purl row. facing the opposite direction.

04
Knit stitches together Rejoin
main yarn then insert right

03 05
needle into the first stitch of
Fold the hem With wrong sides both needles. Knit these stitches Finish it Block hem as per the
(WS) together, fold the hem and together. Continue across the ballband’s instructions.
hold both needles in your left row until all stitches have been
hand ready to proceed. worked.

68 Simple Steps to knitting

 Picot edge

PICOT EDGE This type of edge works

best in a smooth yarn; it
would be lost if worked
Use this as an alternative hem for socks, cardigans and more, with fluffy, mohair type
haloed yarns.
and you’ll get garments with attractive edges

C
reating a picot hem is one of knitting’s little Due to the fact that the edge is folded, it lends itself to be
tricks. Start off by knitting a few rows, be it in rib used on a stocking (stockinette) stitch border preventing the
or stocking (stockinette) stitch, then on 1 row you knitting from rolling. Also if you use this hem on the base of a
alternate working 2 stitches together with a yarn over. Carry garment, the fold lends some weight to the piece, helping it
on working the following rows in your original stitch, then to drape nicely. Unless you have used a ribbed picot hem, the
when you fold the hem at the point of the yarn over row with hem will not be elastic. So only incorporate this style into loose
wrong sides together, creating an edge of bumps. fitting garments.

Yarn-over\
lace holes

01 02
Start your stitches After having first cast (bind) on an Purl it On the next row purl the stitches and the yarn
even number of stitches, work between 5 and 7 rows over needles (yon) as you would do normally. Continue
of stocking (stockinette) stitch. The next row will be a to work your pattern as stated.
right side row. Work the row as follows: *k2tog, yon.
Repeat from * to the end of the row.

04
Block it Gently block, being careful to avoid the
folded edge.

03
Making up When you are at the making up stage, fold
the picot hem over at the yarn over needle (yon) row,
with the wrong sides (WS) together. Pin the hem in

Tighter hem
place, ensuring that the cast (bind) on edge lines up
with a row of knitting. With a tapestry needle thread
with yarn, sew the cast (bind) on edge to the row Cast (bind) on with a size needle small than the pattern suggests
of knitting by inserting the needle into a loop of the
stitch, and then into the corresponding stitch on the to work up to and including the yarn over row. Then change to
cast (bind) on edge. Pull yarn through and continue in the recommended needle size.
this way to the end of the hem.

Simple Steps to knitting 69

 Finishing

BLOCKING
Set your knitting in place and keep it looking its very best by blocking it

O
nce you have spent many hours creating your There are two processes to blocking: dampening the knitted
knitting garment or accessories, you’ll want it to fabric, and pinning it out to the desired dimensions and shape.
look good forever. The way to do this is blocking. If you are making up a garment from separate pieces, block
Essentially you wet the knitted fabric pinning it out to the each to the stated size on the measurements table of the
shape and dimensions given in the measurements and let it pattern by measuring and pinning to size each piece. Once all
dry fully. Sometimes you apply heat but it depends on the the pieces are dry you will be able neatly join them all to make
fibre you have worked with, so check the yarn label. up the garment.

Tools for blocking

You don’t need specialist
equipment to block
your knitting.
• Pins: You can purchase
specific T-pins for blocking
your work, but if you’re just
starting out, regular non-
rusting glasshead pins will
work just fine.

• Spray bottle: The type Place a piece of

you use to spray water chequered cloth between
the blocking mat and
on plants or to damp hair
knitting. Use the straight
before cutting. lines to help you pin
out straight edges.
• Steam iron: Not used for all
fibres. Please read ‘How to
treat different fibres’ section
How to treat different fibres
for more details. Wool: You can use multiple methods Cotton: Adding structure during the
for wool: Wet blocking (do not wring the knitting process is best for cotton. The
• Tape measure: A metal water, as you will damage the fibres) is fibres are inelastic, tend not to hold their
one is best, as over time ideal for heavy patterns such as cable, shape and have no memory. Steam
fabric tape measures have a Steam Blocking, and Pin and Spritz, which Blocking is best.
tendency to stretch. is effective on finer tension (gauge) yarns.
Alpaca and Cashmere: Both of these
• Blocking mats: Interlocking Silk: Once wet, silk becomes very fragile. animal fibres are very delicate indeed.
foam playmats are ideal, It is best to Pin and Spritz silk knit fabrics. You need to play it safe with them and
although knitters have been Pin and Spritz.
know to block sweater Nylon, polyester and other man-made
panels over towels pinned fibres: Avoid the steam iron completely Fibre blends: When there is more than
to a spare bed. as the heat will damage the fibre one fibre making up your yarn, again
structure. It is best to Pin and Spritz. play it safe and Pin and Spritz.

70 Simple Steps to knitting

 Blocking

Types of blocking
Here are the three ways to block your knitting. See the opposite page to
work out which method would work best for your project

Wet blocking Steam blocking Pin and Spritz

Immerse your knitted piece into Pin your knitted piece out, with your With the right sides of your pieces
lukewarm or cold water. Gently squeeze knitted fabric placed right side up. Wet a facing upwards, pin them into shape
out the water, do not wring it as this clean pillowcase or tea towel and wring and to the dimensions stated on the
can damage the connecting fibres. Lay out any extra moisture. Place this flat on pattern. With your plant sprayer set to a
the piece flat on a towel and roll it up top of your knitting. With your iron on fine mist, spray your knitting with cold
like a Swiss roll to squeeze out as much the steam setting, hover it 2cm (0.5in) water. You’ll find that some fibres will
moisture as you can. You may need to above; the steam will penetrate the need to be sprayed less than others;
repeat this. You can either position your fabric. Avoid pressing your iron down, wool for example will only need a light
piece on another towel that has been especially on ribbed sections. Once the mist, while synthetic fibres will require
placed on the blocking mat or lay it pillowcase/towel is dry, remove it and more. Allow the knitting to completely
directly on the mat. Pin it in place and leave the knitted piece to cool down and dry away from direct heat and light
leave it to completely dry. dry out completely overnight. sources, but preferably in a warm room.

Pinning out
Whether you have wet the fabric first,
or will apply moisture after, follow these
easy rules. With your pattern to hand
place your knitting flat on the blocking
mat. Pin all the main points such as
top of the shoulders, underarms, neck
edges, left and right sides above ribs
and cuffs. These should all fit to the
measurements given on the pattern.
With more pins, secure the fabric
between these points at regular intervals.
If you are pulling out points, you could
be pulling too hard, or don’t have
enough pins in between. Remember not
to put any tension on ribbed sections, as
this will cause it to permanently stretch.

Simple Steps to knitting 71

 Finishing

SEAMING & EDGING

Once you’ve finished knitting the main pieces of your project,
you’re going to need to join them together

Figure of eight

01 03
Get started With the pieces to
be joined, side by side, insert the Be ready to work For mattress
needle from back to front of the stitch and other joins to be

02
corner of the right piece. Next insert Secure it Insert the needle from completed with the right side facing,
the needle from front to back, on front to back of the right-hand piece insert the needle into the back of
the corner of the left-hand piece again. Pull through to secure. the left piece again so that the yarn
and pull through. is at the front ready to work.

Mattress stitch

01 02
Join the edges Insert your needle on the first row between
Use the figure of eight In order to work this stitch, both the first and second stitch, pick up the strand and pull the
pieces must have the same number of rows. To start, place yarn through. Repeat this with the second side. Continue in
pieces next to each other with right side facing. Attach the this way until you have joined the edges. You should have an
yarn you are sewing with using a figure of eight. almost invisible seam.

72 Simple Steps to knitting

 Seaming & edging

Edge-to-edge seam Backstitch

This is one of the most popular stitches to use for seam knitting.
With right sides facing, pin both pieces together to ensure they
don’t move. Secure yarn with a figure of eight. Working close to the
With the wrong side (WS) facing you, place both pieces to be edge of the knitting, make one stitch by inserting the needle front
seamed flat on a surface in front of you. Secure the yarn using the to back. Bring the needle back through to the front and to the left
figure of eight at the base, then sew along the edges picking up the of the first stitch. Take the needle back to the edge of the previous
little bumps on each edge. stitch. Continue in this way until the edge is joined.

Whipped stitch seam Hints and tips

With right sides (RS) facing, pin both pieces together to ensure they
don’t move. Secure the yarn with a figure of eight. Working back to • Before you join your knitted pieces, block
front, insert the needle through the centre of the first stitch of each them to the correct dimensions first. Better
piece. Take the yarn over and continue to stitch in the same way stitch definition will ensure a neater finish.
until the piece is joined.
• It is always a good idea to pin the edges of
the pieces together at regular intervals so
that they don’t slip. Use long glass-headed
pins for the best results.

• If the yarn you have worked with is too

slippery or fluffy, use another yarn of the
same colour to join the edges.

• Use a blunt, large-eyed tapestry needle to

join knitting. A sharp point will split the yarn,
making it difficult to pull yarn through.

Simple Steps to knitting 73

 Finishing

Grafting
Long, glass-headed pins
are ideal for holding
your pieces of knitting
together while joining
the seams.

01
Secure the yarn This creates an almost invisible seam,
which works particularly well on shoulder seams. With

02
right sides (RS) facing and both cast (bind)-off edges
together, secure the yarn with a figure of eight, then Create the invisible join Ensure that you evenly pull
on the bottom piece insert the needle under both the stitches through so that they blend in with the
strands of the ‘v’ point from left to right. Repeat on the knitted tension (gauge). Once you have finished you
corresponding stitch on the top piece. should have and almost invisible join.

Grafting open edges together

01
Start grafting When joining open edges you must
have the same number of stitches on both pieces.

02
First remove the waste yarn or stitch holders and place
both pieces on a flat surface with the right sides (RS) Continue the combination Insert the needle from
facing upwards. Thread your needle with the yarn in behind into the middle of the first ‘v’ stitch on the left
the same colour as the piece to be grafted (note: for piece. Next, insert the needle from bottom to top
illustrative purposes, we’re showing the joining yarn in behind the two legs of the first ‘v’ stitch on the right
a contrast colour). piece. Your yarn should be at the front of the work.

74 Simple Steps to knitting

 Seaming & edging

Adding an edging

01 02 03
Finish up Once you have sewn
Place pins With right sides Join together Starting with all the edging on, unfold it. For
together, place the knitted edging a figure of eight at the start a neat finish, you will need to
on top of the main knitted piece. of the edging, with even steam block the join using a
Place pins at regular intervals to overcast stitches, join the damp towel and a steam iron
prevent either piece moving. two pieces together. (but only if the yarn allows).

03
Close the gap Take the needle back to the left piece
and insert it from bottom to top beneath the two legs

04
of the next ‘v’, pulling the yarn through to the right
side. As you pull the yarn through, gently close the Secure it Secure and darn in the end of the yarn
gap between the two pieces, ensuring that the joining on the wrong side (WS) of the work. With the
stitch is the same size as the stitches in the main wrong side of the knitting facing you, unravel and
knitted pieces. Take the yarn back to the right piece discard the contrast waste yarn. Block the piece
and continue until you have worked all stitches. as recommended.

Simple Steps to knitting 75

 Finishing

FASTENINGS
Once you’ve finished your knitted piece, it may need to have some closures added.
Whether buttons, poppers or a zip, here’s how to add them professionally

O
nce a garment has been knitted and seamed, covers, however their stiffness does not work too well with
adding the fastenings can often come as an the elasticity of hand-knitted fabrics. If you are keen to add a
afterthought. However, choosing the way to close zip, choose a yarn that will not shrink or stretch after wearing
a garment or accessory should be as integral as choosing the or washing. Also be aware that zips come in set lengths –
yarn and pattern. purchase your zip before you start knitting and you can work
Buttons are the most popular way to fasten garments your pattern to the exact zip length. Zips don’t tend to come in
from cardigans and jackets, to open shoulder seams and a variety of shades, so if you don’t have an exact match to your
cushion covers. Choose your buttons before knitting, so that yarn colour, make it contrasting for a feature zip.
buttonholes can be made the right size, although it is possible
to decided on your buttons afterwards so that you can be
sure of an good match with the pattern and yarn. Poppers are
a great way to add a fastening if you want an invisible closure
Drawstrings
Little tote bags can be fastened with a drawstring closure. A row
and don’t have the option in the pattern to add buttonholes.
of evenly spaced eyelets can be worked near the top seam of
The size of popper needed will be determined by the weight of
the bag. A drawstring of ribbon, crocheted chain or i-cord can
the yarn worked and the width of the area to be fastened. Zips
then be threaded through the eyelets.
can look great on jackets and for easy closures on cushion

Sewing buttons

01 02
Secure the yarn With the thread Sew the button in place Sew

03
doubled, tie a knot at the end. the button into place in the
Insert the needle into the right usual way, keeping the cable Strengthen the fastening
side of the fabric, bring it up needle between the button and With the thread between the
from the wrong side and insert the fabric. This ensures that the fabric surface and the button,
into the loop at the end of the button isn’t sewn on too tightly. lift the button and wind the
yarn by the knot. Pull gently to Once you have made enough thread around the connecting
secure the yarn. On the surface stitches to hold the button do stitches several times. This will
of the fabric, place a cable not cut the yarn, but feed the strengthen the fastening and
needle and insert the sewing needle through the hole – just prevent the button rubbing on
needle into the hole from the don’t take it through to the the knitted fabric, which could
back of the button. wrong side of the fabric. damage it.

76 Simple Steps to knitting

 Fastenings

Poppers

01
The female side Decide where the poppers is to be placed
on the right side (RS) of the inner part of the opening. Evenly
space the positions and mark with pins. Taking a needle
threaded double with matching thread, secure as for step 1 on
attaching buttons. With three or four little stitches, attach the
female side popper through the little holes. There is no need to
cut the thread between holes, just carry it to the next one.

02
The male side For the male counterpart of the popper, position
them so that they are directly opposite the female side. This
time however, when working the little stitches, ensure that the
needle and thread do not come through to the right side (RS)
of the fabric; instead catch the yarn as you stitch.

Adding a zip

02
Pin it With the zip closed, lay the knitted piece right
side (RS) up on a flat surface in position on top of the

01
zip. The knitted edge should cover the teeth of the zip.
Choose the right zip Finding a zip that is the same Pin horizontally at the top, middle and bottom of the
length as your knitted piece can be hard. Do not be zip. Now add pins in the centre of the gaps, then add
tempted to stretch or bunch your knitted edge to fit more pins at the centre of those gaps to ensure even
the zip length. Instead, choose your zip first and knit to placement. Continue until you have placed enough
the same length. pins two or three rows apart.

03 04
Stitch the fabric With a contrasting thread, tack the
zip to the knitted fabric in a vertical line from top to Finish it up Turn the knitted fabric over and using the
bottom. Remove pins. Thread a sharp-tipped needle same thread, attach the edge of the zip fabric to the
with matching thread, secure at the bottom hem on wrong side (WS) of the knitting, being careful not to
the wrong side (WS) and neatly back stitch the fabric take the needle all the way through the knitted fabric,
to the zip, vertically between the same line of stitches. but following the same vertical line of knitted stitches.

Simple Steps to knitting 77

PATTERNS
patterns
Star ratings indicate difficulty.
You will learn all skills required
in this book

80 Moss Stitch Neck Warmer 110 Gradient Shawl

+++++ +++++
82 Trio of Dishcloths 114 Fox isle socks
+++++ +++++
84 Cosy Popcorn Cowl & hat 118 Cosy June Cushion
+++++ +++++
86 Blackberry stitch tea cosy 122 Flower fair isle bag
+++++ +++++
88 Cosy mittens 124 Fingerless gloves
+++++ +++++
90 Basket stitch container 126 Forever April Sweater
+++++ +++++
92 Stormy Waters Shawl 130 Fairy tale legwarmers
+++++ +++++
96 Lace placemat & coaster 132 Stranded Christmas
+++++ Stocking
98 Strawberry pie blanket
+++++
+++++
136 Cable & Bobble
98
102 Chevron Cushion Cover Cushion Cover
+++++
+++++
138 Fish & stripes cot blanket
104 Winter Cables Cowl & hat
+++++
+++++ 102
108 Willowherb lace doily 140 Weasley Homestead socks
+++++
+++++ 

84
 80

114

96

88

All our knitting patterns and tutorials use UK rather

than US terminology. There’s a handy list of common
abbreviations on page 148 for your guidance.

Simple Steps to knitting 79

80 Simple Steps to knitting
MOSS STITCH NECK WARMER
This cosy neck warmer is quick to make in a simple moss stitch pattern. The texture
creates a thick fabric that will keep you warm as well as looking fab

Pattern gap between the first and last FINISHING

DIFFICULTY stitch. Place a stitch marker
MOSS STITCH COWL Sew in all remaining ends
+++++ at this spot, which will mark
on wrong side. Although it
Using 6mm circular needles, the beginning of each round.
WHAT YOU NEED is not essential to block, the
• 6mm circular needle, cast on 91sts. (90 sts).
appearance of your cowl will
60cm long Join stitches to work in the Round 1 (RS): *K1, P1; rep from be enhanced if you do so. You
• Stitch marker round as follows: Spread * to the end. can gently block by pinning out
• Yarn needle stitches out along the cable/
Round 2: *P1, K1; rep from * to flat to dimensions given. Spray
• In this project we have wire and bring the tips of the
the end. liberally with cool water to
used Mirasol Sulka which needles together. Make sure
comes in 50g skeins Repeat Rounds 1-2, until work moisten, patting the water into
that your stitches are not
(50m). You will need measures 27cm deep, ending the knitting until thoroughly
twisted. Move the top stitch
to use chunky weight at the stitch marker. dampened. Leave to try dry
yarn, in your chosen from the right hand needle
completely before unpinning.
colours. You will need to the left hand needle, then Cast off.
approximately 4 skeins of k2tog. This will close the
50g/50m
Colour 1: Rosewood; 4
skeins
MEASUREMENTS
68cm (27in) circumference
x 27cm (10½in) deep
TENSION
13 sts and 24 rows in
pattern in the round to
measure 10x10cm/4x4in
using 6mm (US 10)
needles.

SIAN
BROWN
After doing
a Fashion/
Textiles BA Sian worked
supplying to high street
retailers on machine knits.
She became interested
in handknits and have
designed these since,
working for magazines,
publishers and yarn
companies.
www.sianbrown.co.uk

Simple Steps to knitting 81

 It is important the yarn you use is 100% cotton for
dishcloths, as other fibres will not be suitable.
Use a long tail cast on for best results. If preferred,
neatly carry yarn up side when knitting the striped
dishcloth to save having lots of ends to sew in.
You will have enough yarns left over from the striped
dishcloth to make another if you reverse the colours for
the stripes.

82 Simple Steps to knitting

TRIO OF DISHCLOTHS
Simple dishcloths make for an achievable first project to learn some basic
stitches, and are great as gifts bundled with a hand soap or small kitchen items

Pattern Change to col 3. FINISHING

DIFFICULTY
GARTER STITCH DISHCLOTH Row 7 (RS): Knit. Sew in all remaining ends on
+++++
With col 1, cast on 38 sts. Row 8 (WS): K4, P to last 4 sts, wrong side. Although it is not
WHAT YOU NEED
K4. essential to block, if giving as
• 4mm needle Knit 70 rows or until work
Row 9: Knit. a gift the appearance of your
• Yarn Needle meas approx 20cm (8in).
dishcloths will be enhanced
• In this project we have Cast off knitwise. Row 10: K4, P to last 4 sts, K4.
if you do so. You can gently
used Lily Cotton Sugar’n Change to col 4.
Cream. You will need to block by pinning out flat
use 100% cotton Aran Pattern Rows 11-12: Knit 2 rows. to dimensions given. Spray
weight yarn in your liberally with cool water to
chosen colours.
MOSS STITCH DISHCLOTH Rows 7-12 set striped pattern
with gst border. moisten, patting the water into
Colour 1: Robins Egg; With col 2, cast on 37 sts.
1 ball
the knitting until thoroughly
Row 1: K1, *P1, K1; rep from * Rep Rows 7-12 a further 7
Colour 2: Azalea; 1 ball dampened. Leave to try dry
to end. times.
Colour 3: Ecru; 1 ball completely before unpinning.
Colour 4: Country Red; Row 1 forms moss st patt. Cont Rows 65-66: Knit 2 rows with
1 ball col 3. MOSS STITCH
in moss st for a further 59 rows
MEASUREMENTS or until work meas approx Rows 67-68: Knit 2 rows with
20cm (8in) x 20cm (8in) 20cm (8in). col 4.
TENSION Cast off in patt. Row 69: Knit with col 3.
GE STRIPED
Work 19 sts and 35 rows Cast off knitwise. GARTER RID
in garter stitch to measure Pattern
10x10cm/4x4in using
GARTER RIDGE STRIPED
4mm (US 6) needles, or
size required to obtain DISHCLOTH
correct tension. With col 3, cast on 38 sts.
Work 18.5 sts and 30 rows Rows 1-2: Knit 2 rows with
in moss stitch to measure col 4.
10x10cm/4x4in using 4mm
(US 6) needles, or size Rows 2-4: Knit 2 rows with
required to obtain correct col 3.
tension. Rows 5-6: Knit 2 rows with
Work 19 sts and 29 rows col 4.
H
in garter stitch to measure ITC
10x10cm/4x4in using ST
ER
4mm (US 6) needles, or
ART
size required to obtain G
correct tension.
Although tension is not
essential for this project,
if you don’t match the
DONNA JONES
Donna Jones designs, edits and teaches
tension stated your handknitting & crochet. She firmly believes
dishcloth may turn out a creative expression is essential for our well-being and aims
different size and use a
to facilitate this in others. You can follow Donna’s knitterly
larger amount of yarn.
adventures on Instagram - @djonesdesigns
www.donnajonesdesigns.co.uk
 To ensure your edges
are not too tight, use the
larger needle to cast on
(remembering to switch to
the smaller needle as
soon as you have
cast on).

KSENIA NAIDYON
Ksenia designs cozy knitwear
and home decor that are a pleasure
both to knit and to use. Her patterns feature
modern color palettes, interesting textures,
and comfortable fit.
lifeiscozy.com

84 Simple Steps to knitting

COSY POPCORN COWL & HAT
This fun and easy pattern makes a really beautiful cowl,
very cosy and nicely textured

Pattern (Cowl) Rnd 52: *K1, P1; rep from * to Rnd 8 (inc): *P1, K1; rep from *
DIFFICULTY end. to last 2 sts, P1, kfb. 49 sts
Cast on 73 sts loosely using
+++++ Rnds 53-59: Work 7 rows as Rnd 9: *K1, P1; rep from * to
Long Tail cast on with 7.5mm
WHAT YOU NEED Rnd 1. last stitch, K1.
circular needle.
• 7.5mm (US 10.5/11) Rnd 10: *P1, K1; rep from * to
Taking care not to twist cast on
circular needle, 9mm last stitch, P1.
(US 13) circular needle, edge, join to work in rounds FINISHING Rnds 9 & 10 set moss stitch
10mm (US 15) circular by knitting the first and the last
Cast off loosely in rib. patt.
needle, all 40cm (“16in) stitch together, place marker.
long. You can use sets 72 sts Weave in ends. Enjoy! Cont in moss st for a further
of 5 DPNs instead 24 rnds or until work measures
of circular needles if (If you are using DPNs, arrange
preferred sts over 4 needles with 18 sts Pattern (Hat) 20cm (8in) from cast on edge,
on each). ending with a Rnd 9.
• Stitch marker Cast on 49 sts loosely using
• Yarn Needle Long Tail cast on with 7.5mm If you want your hat to be
• Tapestry needle circular needle. longer, you can keep knitting
BOTTOM RIBBING until the desired length (don’t
• Pompom maker Taking care not to twist cast on
(optional) Rnd 1: *K1, P1; rep from * to forget that in this case you’ll
edge, join to work in rounds
end. need more yarn).
• Scissors by knitting the first and the last
Rnds 2-8: Work 7 rnds as Rnd 1.
• In this project we have stitch together, place marker.
used Lion Brand Wool 48 sts
Ease Thick & Quick, 97m SHAPE CROWN
BODY OF COWL (If you are using DPNs, arrange
(106yds) per 170g ball; Rnd 35: * K2tog; rep from * to
80% acrylic, 20% wool. sts over 4 needles with 18 sts
Switch to 10mm needle(s). last st , K1. 25 sts
You will need to use on each).
super chunky yarn, in Rnd 9 (inc): *P1, K1; rep from * Break yarn leaving a 20cm (8in)
your chosen colour as to last 2 sts, P1, kfb. 73 sts tail. Using a yarn needle, thread
follows: Rnd 10: *K1, P1; rep from * to RIBBING through remaining sts and pull
Colour 1: Wheat; 2 balls
last stitch, K1. Rnd 1: *K1, P1; rep from * to tight to fasten and secure.
(cowl); 1 ball (hat)
Rnd 11: *P1, K1; rep from * to end.
MEASUREMENTS last stitch, P1. Rnds 2-7: Work 6 rnds as Rnd 1.
Hat: Circumference: Rnds 10 & 11 set moss stitch FINISHING
Approx 40.5cm (16in) patt. Make a pompom and attach to
unstretched at the brim. BODY OF HAT the top of the hat.
Cont in moss st for a further
Height: 20cm (8in) Switch to 9mm needles.
39 rnds or until work measures Weave in ends. Enjoy!
unstretched. Add extra
length for large heads. 31cm from cast on edge,
ending with a Rnd 10.
Cowl: Measures approx
80cm (31½in) in If you want your cowl to be
circumference and 35cm deeper, you can keep knitting
(13¾in) deep until the desired length (don’t
TENSION forget that in this case you’ll
need more yarn).
Hat: 11 sts and 19 rnds
= 10cm (4in) over moss Rnd 51 (dec): *P1, K1; rep from
stitch on 9mm needles. * to last 3 sts, P1, ssk. 72 sts
Cowl: 9 sts and 16 rnds
= 10cm (4in) over moss
TOP RIBBING
stitch worked in rounds on
10mm needles Switch to 7.5mm needle(s).
 SIAN
BROWN
After doing
a Fashion/
Textiles BA Sian worked
supplying to high street
retailers on machine
knits. She became
interested in handknits
and have designed
these since, working for
magazines, publishers
and yarn companies.
www.sianbrown.co.uk

86 Simple Steps to knitting

BLACKBERRY STITCH TEA COSY
Brighten up your kitchen with this pretty and practical project. Wrap up your teapot
in this textured cosy and keep your tea hot until the very last cup

Pattern Row 4: *P1, K3; rep from * to Next Row (Eyelet Row): K5,
DIFFICULTY
end. (K2tog, yrn, K4) 6 times, K2tog,
+++++ SIDES (MAKE 2)
Row 5: *P3tog, (K1, yrn, K1) into yrn, K5.
WHAT YOU NEED Using 5mm needles, cast on
next st; rep from * to end. Work 12 rows in gst.
• 5mm needles 48 sts.
• Yarn needle
Row 6: *P3, K1; rep from * Cast off.
Knit 4 rows.
to end.
• In this project we have
Start pattern:
used Rico Essentials Row 7: *P1, K3; rep from *
TIE
Aran, 50g/85m. You Row 1 (WS): *(K1, yrn, K1) to end.
will need to use 100% into next st, P3tog; rep from * Cut 8 x 80cm (31 in) lengths of
Aran weight yarn in your Row 8: *K3, P1; rep from *
to end. yarn. Plait/braid to create a tie.
chosen colours. You will to end.
need approximately 2 Row 2 (RS): *K1, P3; rep from Pin pieces onto your teapot,
Repeat these 8 rows until work
50g balls. * to end. and mark openings for the
Colour 1: Lilac; 2 balls measures 15cm (6in) from cast
handle and spout. Sew side
Row 3: *K3, P1; rep from * on edge, ending with a Row 4
MEASUREMENTS seams. Thread tie through
to end. or Row 8.
22cm (8¾in) wide x 15cm eyelets and tie in a bow.
(6in) deep to eyelets
TENSION
20 sts and 20 rows in
pattern to measure
10x10cm/4x4in using
5mm needles, or size
required to obtain
correct tension.

SPECIAL STITCHES
P3tog: Purl next 3 stitches
together as one stitch -
insert right needle purlwise
into the next 3 stitches
on left needle, purl all
3 stitches together as
one stitch (to decrease 2
stitches).
(K1, yrn, K1) into next st:
Work all of the instructions
within brackets into the
next stitch - knit the next
stitch but do not take it
off the needle, wrap yarn
around the needle to
make 1 stitch, knit into
the same stitch and take it
off the needle (increasing
2 stitches).

Simple Steps to knitting 87

 Using self-striping yarn
means you don’t have
to keep darning in ends
and you get some really
neat effects.

88 Simple Steps to knitting

COSY MITTENS
Use two straight needles to knit up a pair of simple mittens that will become an
essential part of your winter wardrobe. Use variegated yarn to add interest
Pattern st st 3 rows. Next Row (dec): P21[23], (p2tog)
DIFFICULTY twice, P21[23]. 44[48] sts.
RIB
+++++ Using 3.5mm needles, cast on THUMB
Continue with Hand section.
WHAT YOU NEED 45[49] sts. Row 1: K33[37], slip remaining
• 3.5mm (US 4) needles Row 1: (K1, P1) to the last st, K1 21[23] sts to stitch holder 1, turn. HAND
4mm (US 6) needles
Row 2: (P1, K1) to the last st, P1. Row 2: Cast on 2 sts, then Beginning with a K row,
• Stitch holders
• Stitch markers Repeat Rows 1-2 until rib P12[14]. S rem 21[23] sts to work in st st until hand
measures approximately 8[9] stitch holder 2, turn. measures 9[11.5] cm from the
• Yarn needle
cm from the start. Row 3: Cast on 2 sts then base of thumb.
• In this project we have
used West Yorkshire Change to 4mm needles and K16[18].
Spinners Bluefaced continue with thumb gusset.. Beginning with a P row, work For small size only:
Leicester DK Prints which
comes in 100g balls in st st until thumb measures Next Row (dec): (K20, k2tog)
(224m). You will need 5[5.75] cm (or length required). twice. 42 sts.
to use double knitting THUMB GUSSET
Next Row (dec): (k2tog) to the Next Row: Purl. 42 sts.
weight yarn, in your Row 1 (dec): K2tog, K to end.
chosen colour. end. 8[9] sts.
44[48] sts.
Colour: Bluetit; 1 ball Cut yarn leaving a long tail
Row 2: Purl. 44[48] sts. For all sizes:
MEASUREMENTS and thread through rem sts.
To fit Adult hand Small/ Row 3 (inc): K21[23], m1, K2, Pull tight to fasten and secure Next Row (dec): (K4, k2tog) to
Medium-Large m1, K21[23]. 46[50] sts. gathers with a couple of end. 35[40] sts.
To fit hand size Rows 4-6: Beg with P row, st stitches. Use the tail end to Beg with a P row, st st 3 rows.
approximately 19.5 st 3 rows. stitch the thumb seam, down Next Row (dec): (K3, k2tog) to
[21.5cm /7.75[8.5]in
Row 7 (inc): K21[23], m1, K4, to the cast on sts. end. 28[32] sts.
TENSION m1, K21[23]. 48[52] sts. With right side facing, slip the Beg with a P row, st st 3 rows.
22 stitches and 28 rows
Rows 8-10: Beg with P row, st stitches from stitch holder 2
= 10cm (4in) in stocking
Next Row (dec): (K2, k2tog) to
st 3 rows. onto the right hand needle
stitch using 4mm needles end. 21[24] sts.
(these are the stitches to the
Row 11(inc): K21[23], m1, K6, right of the thumb - don’t knit Next Row: Purl. 21[24] sts.
m1, K21[23]. 50[54] sts. these as they’ve already been Next Row (dec): (K1, k2tog) to
Rows 12-14: Beg with P row, st knitted). Re-join yarn - note: end. 14[16] sts.

LYNNE
st 3 rows. you will notice that the yarn Next Row (dec): (p2tog) to
Row 15 (inc): K21[23], m1, K8, is self-striping and that there end. 7[8] sts.

ROWE
m1, K21[23]. 52[56] sts. is a colour sequence that is
noticeable on your mittens.
Rows 16-18: Beg with p row, st
Lynne is a knit st 3 rows.
Due to knitting the thumb, the FINISHING
and crochet self-striping pattern will now be Cut yarn leaving a long tail to
Row 19 (inc): K21[23], m1, K10, out of sequence, so you will
designer, technical editor m1, K21[23]. 54[58] sts. stitch the seam and thread
and tutor. She loves to pass need to wind off (and cut out) through rem sts. Pull tight to
Rows 20-22: Beg with P row, a length of yarn until you reach fasten and secure gathers with
on her skills to help others
st st 3 rows. the correct part of the yarn to a few stitches. Tie off and trim
to knit, crochet and create.
www.thewoolnest. For L only: continue with the main striping all loose yarn ends inside the
blogspot.co.uk sequence. Pick up and knit 4 glove (except for the long tail
Row 23 (inc): K23, m1, K12, m1,
www.knitcrochetcreate. sts from the base of the thumb, end). Use the tail end to stitch
K23. 60 sts.
com then K across sts from stitch the side seam and rib seam.
Rows 24-26: Beg with P row, holder 1. 46[50] sts.

Simple Steps to knitting 89

 Yarn is held double and used
as a single strand throughout.

90 Simple Steps to knitting

BASKET STITCH CONTAINER
A simple project that is made in two sections and sewn together. Perfect for mixing
and matching yarn from your stash to create your own unique blend of colours

Pattern Row 4: *K5, P3; rep from * to below the inside top border,
DIFFICULTY the end. opposite each other.
BASE
+++++ Using 4.5mm needles and col 1
Row 5: Knit. Cut a circle of lining for the
WHAT YOU NEED Row 6: K1, P3, *K5, P3; rep base, the size of the base
held double, cast on 5 sts.
• 4.5mm needles, from * to the last 4 sts, K4. plus 1cm seam allowances
35cm long Purl 1 row. (check the measurements
Row 7: P4, *K3, P5; rep from *
• Lining fabric and wadding Row 1: K1, M1, K1, M1, K1, M1, of your finished container
to the last 4 sts, K4.
for sides: 61cm x 16cm K1, M1, K1. (9 sts). before cutting the lining. Cut a
• Lining fabric and wadding Row 8: K1, P3, *K5, P3; rep rectangle of lining for the sides.
Row 2 and every even row:
for base: 22cm x 22cm from * to the last 4 sts, K4.
Purl. Cut the same two pieces
• Yarn needle These 8 rows form the pattern. in wadding.
Row 3: K1, (M1, K1) to end. (17 sts).
• In this project we have Rep Rows 1-8 until 28 rows
used Debbie Bliss Cotton Row 5: K1, (M1, K2) to end. (25 sts). Pin the short edges of the side
have been worked in total (3
DK, held double. You will piece together to form a tube.
Row 7: K1, (M1, K3) to end. repeats of Rows 1-8, then rep
need to use DK yarn held Pin this piece to the circular
double, in your chosen (33 sts). Rows 1-4 once more).
base. Put inside the container
colours. Row 9: K1, (M1, K4) to end. Work 3 rows in gst. to make sure that it fits. The
Colour 1: Stone; 4 50g
(41 sts). top should sit just below the
balls
beginning of the top border. It
HANDLES (MAKE 2)
Row 11: K1, (M1, K5) to end.
MEASUREMENTS
(49 sts). is better if the lining is slightly
18cm (7in) wide x 13cm Using 4.5mm needles and yarn smaller than the knitted piece
(5in) deep Row 13: K1, (M1, K6) to end.
held double, cast on 17 sts. so that it is eased in to prevent
(57 sts).
TENSION Rows 1-2: K. it looking loose or baggy. If it
Work 16 sts and 17 rows Row 15: K1, (M1, K7) to end. does not fit, pin to the correct
in pattern to measure (65 sts). Cast off.
size. Sew the side piece
10x10cm using 4.5mm (US
Row 17: K1, (M1, K8) to end. together at the short edges.
7) needles, or size required
to obtain correct tension.
(73 sts). FINISHING Sew this piece onto the base.
Row 19: K1, (M1, K9) to end. Pin and sew the base and side Place inside the container, pin
(81 sts). seams. Sew on the handles just and hand sew in place.

SIAN
Row 21: K1, (M1, K10) to end.
(89 sts).

BROWN
Row 22: Purl.
Row 23 (WS): Knit to mark
After doing edge of base and increase 7 sts
a Fashion/ evenly across the row (96 sts).
Textiles BA Sian worked
supplying to high street
SIDES
retailers on machine knits.
She became interested Using 4.5mm needles and col 1
in handknits and have held double, cast on 96 sts.
designed these since, Row 1: (RS): Knit.
working for magazines, Row 2: *K5, P3; rep from * to
publishers and yarn the end.
companies.
Row 3: *K3, P5; rep from * to
www.sianbrown.co.uk
the end.

Simple Steps to knitting 91

 KSENIA
NAIDYON
Ksenia designs cozy
knitwear and home decor
that are a pleasure both to
knit and to use. Her patterns
feature modern color
palettes, interesting textures,
and comfortable fit.
lifeiscozy.com

The shawl is knitted from the

right corner with increases at the
end of every RS row. Increases
are made in the form of kfb
unless stated otherwise.
The neat braid-like edge of the
shawl is created by slipping first
stitches. In every row first st is
slipped as if to purl with yarn
in the front (abbreviation is sl 1
wyif), and every last st is knitted.
Row count is included in
the pattern. The number of
completed rows can be changed
depending on the yarn/gauge/
desired size of a shawl. The usual
text corresponds to the sample
shawl. The text in Italic is added
for your convenience and can be
used for additional rows.
If you’d like to make tassels,
save yarn for them in advance:
2 tassels require approximately
26ft (8m).

92 Simple Steps to knitting

STORMY WATERS SHAWL
This shawl is lightweight, dynamic, and modern. Knitted from the corner in a
shape of a skewed triangle, it makes a great and fast project

Pattern Regardless of the yarn choice Row 4: Sl 1 wyif, knit until last 2
DIFFICULTY or gauge, the last stripe of the sts, Kfb, K1.
SET UP ROWS
shawl has to be a Garter Stripe.
+++++ Using 5.5mm needles, cast on
Rows 5-16: Repeat Rows 3-4
This will help to keep the shape another 6 times.
WHAT YOU NEED 3 sts. of the finished garment.
• 5.5mm needles. If using
different weight yarn, Row 1 (WS): K3. (3 sts).
use needles at least three
LACE STRIPE
Row 2 (RS): sl 1 wyif, K2. STRIPE PATTERNS
sizes up from stated on Row 3: Sl 1 wyif, K2. (12 rows, increase by 6 sts
the label to keep fabric GARTER STRIPE 1 overall)
airy and light Row 4: Sl 1 wyif, Kfb, K1. (4 sts).
(16 rows, increase by 8 sts Row 1 (WS): Sl 1 wyif, knit until
• A piece of cardboard for Row 5: Sl 1 wyif, K3.
tassels
overall) the end of the row.
Row 6: Sl 1 wyif, knit until last 2 Row 1 (WS): Sl 1 wyif, knit until
• Yarn Needle Row 2 (RS): Sl 1 wyif, (K1, yo)
sts, Kfb, K1. (5 sts). the end of the row.
• Blocking mats and pins until last 2 sts, Kfb, K1.
Row 7: Sl 1 wyif, knit until the Row 2 (RS): Sl 1 wyif, knit until Row 3: Sl 1 wyif, purl until last
• In this project we have
used Alize Angora Gold end of the row. last 2 sts, Kfb, K1. stitch, K1.
Simli (10% mohair, 10% Row 8: As Row 6. (6 sts).
wool, 5% metallic, 75% Rows 3-16: Repeat Rows 1-2 Row 4: Sl 1 wyif,k1, (k2tog) until
acrylic), 100g/500m. Row 9: As Row 7. another 7 times. last 2 sts, Kfb, K1.
You will need to use 4ply Row 10: As Row 6. (7 sts). Row 5: Sl 1 wyif, purl until last
(fingering) weight yarn in
your chosen colour.
stitch, K1.
NET STRIPE
Colour 1: Peacock; 1 ball Row 6: Sl 1 wyif, (yo, k2tog)
BODY OF SHAWL (8 rows, increase by 4 sts
MEASUREMENTS until last 2 sts, yo, k2.
The shawl is knitted by overall)
180cm (71in) long, Row 7: Sl 1 wyif, knit until the
implementing a 4 Stripe Row 1 (WS): Sl 1 wyif, (yo,
excluding tassels end of the row.
Pattern sequence in the K2tog) until the end of the row.
80cm (31in) at the widest following order. Row 8: Sl 1 wyif, (yo, k1) until
part Row 2 (RS): Sl 1 wyif, (yo, K2tog)
last stitch, K1.
16 rows: Garter Stripe 1 until last 2 sts, yo, Kfb, K1.
TENSION Row 9: Sl 1 wyif, purl until last
Work 18 sts and 28 rows 8 rows: Net Stripe Row 3: Sl 1 wyif, K1, (yo, K2tog) stitch, K1.
in garter stitch when 16 rows: Garter Stripe 2 until the end of the row.
Row 10: Sl 1 wyif, (k2tog) until
blocked, to measure 12 rows: Lace Stripe Row 4: Sl 1 wyif, (yo, K2tog) last 3 sts, K1, Kfb, K1.
10x10cm/4x4in using until last st, yo, K1.
5.5mm (US 9) needles, Note: See Stripe Patterns Row 11: Sl 1 wyif, purl until last
or size required to obtain below for the instructions for Rows 5-8: Repeat Rows 1-4 stitch, K1.
correct tension. each section: once more.
Row 12: Sl 1 wyif, (yo, k2tog)
Tension is not critical and The number of repetitions
until last 3 sts, K1, Kfb, K1.
can be changed to fit the may vary depending on the
GARTER STRIPE 2
desired yarn yarn, gauge, and desired size
of the shawl. (16 rows, increase by 8 sts ROW COUNTS
overall)
Row count follows. In the Rows 11-26: Garter Stripe 1.
row count, the usual text Row 1 (WS): Sl 1 wyif, purl until (15 sts).
corresponds to the sample last st, K1.
Rows 27-34: Net Stripe. (19
shawl. Row 2 (RS): Sl 1 wyif, knit until sts).
The text in Italic is added for last 2 sts, Kfb, K1.
Rows 35-50: Garter Stripe 2.
your convenience and can be Row 3: Sl 1 wyif, knit until the (27 sts).
used for additional rows. end of the row. Rows 51-62: Lace Stripe. (33 sts).

Simple Steps to knitting 93

 (93 sts). (175 sts). This will help keep the shape of
Rows 63-78: Garter Stripe 1. Rows 235-242: Net Stripe. (97 Rows 399-414: Garter Stripe 2. the finished garment.
(15 sts). sts). (183 sts). This Shawl was finished after
Rows 79-86: Net Stripe. (19 Rows 243-258: Garter Stripe 2. Rows 415-426: Lace Stripe. completing Row 337. You
sts). (105 sts). (189 sts). can stop after completing
any WS row of a Garter Stripe,
Rows 87-102: Garter Stripe 2. Rows 259-270: Lace Stripe. Rows 427-442: Garter Stripe 1.
depending on when the skein
(27 sts). (111 sts). (197 sts).
comes to the end.
Rows 103-114: Lace Stripe. Rows 271-286: Garter Stripe 1. Rows 443-450: Net Stripe.
Bind off very loosely as
(33 sts). (119 sts). (201 sts).
follows: K1, (slip stitch back to
Rows 115-130: Garter Stripe 1. Rows 287-294: Net Stripe. Rows 451-466: Garter Stripe 2. left needle, K2tog) until 1 stitch
(41 sts). (123 sts). (209 sts). is left.
Rows 131-138: Net Stripe. (45 Rows 295-310: Garter Stripe 2. Rows 467-478: Lace Stripe.
Cut yarn leaving a tail of
sts). (131 sts). (215 sts).
approx. 20cm (8in) and pull
Rows 139-154: Garter Stripe 2. Rows 311-322: Lace Stripe. Rows 479-494: Garter Stripe 1. it through the loop of the last
(53 sts). (137 sts). (223 sts). stitch.
Rows 155-166: Lace Stripe. Rows 323-338: Garter Stripe 1. Rows 495-502: Net Stripe. Wash the shawl in 30°C
(59 sts). (145 sts). (227 sts). water and block into shape.
Rows 167-182: Garter Stripe .1 Rows 339-346: Net Stripe. Rows 503-518: Garter Stripe 2 Moderate stretching is
(67 sts). (149 sts). (235 sts). recommended to open up the
Rows 183-190: Net Stripe. (71 Rows 347-362: Garter Stripe 2. Rows 519-530: Lace Stripe. yarn overs and garter stitch.
sts). (157 sts). (241 sts). Make 2 tassels approx. 7.5cm
Rows 191-206: Garter Stripe 2. Rows 363-374: Lace Stripe. (3in) long and secure them
(79 sts). (163 sts). with the ends of working yarn
FINISHING
Rows 207-218: Lace Stripe. Rows 375-390: Garter Stripe 1. at the beginning and end of
Regardless of the yarn choice
(85 sts). (171 sts). the shawl. Hide the ends of
or gauge the last stripe of the yarn in the tassels.
Rows 219-234: Garter Stripe 1. Rows 391-398: Net Stripe. shawl has to be a Garter Stripe.

94 Simple Steps to knitting

 This pattern can be
used as a base for
experiments, as neither
yarn weight nor tension
is critical.

Simple Steps to knitting 95

 Use the same pattern to
create a matching table
runner for your table by
adding more rows until
you are happy with the
length.

96 Simple Steps to knitting

LACE PLACEMAT & COASTER
Once you’ve mastered the basics of knitting try some simple lace stitches and
create this pretty and decorative placemat and coaster
Pattern 1, K1, psso, K4. (63 sts). Pattern
DIFFICULTY PLACEMAT Row 7: K5, *K2tog, yf, K1, yf, sl COASTER
+++++ Using 4mm needles, cast on
1, K1, psso, K1 rep from * to last
Using 4mm needles, cast on
4 sts, K4.
WHAT YOU NEED 63 sts. 21 sts.
• 4mm needle Row 9: Rep Row 3. (81 sts)
Work 3 rows in gst. Work 3 rows in gst.
• Yarn Needle Row 11: K5, *K2tog, yf, sl 1,
Start pattern. Start pattern.
• In this project we have K2tog, psso, yf, sl 1, K1, psso,
used Debbie Bliss Cotton Row 1: (RS) K5, *yf, sl 1, K1, K1; rep from * to last 4 sts, K4. Rep Rows 1-12 as given
DK, 50g/84m. You will psso, K1, K2tog, yf, K1; rep from for placemat until coaster
(63 sts).
need to use 100% cotton
* to last 4 sts, K4. measures 10cm (4in) approx.
double knitting weight Row 12: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3.
yarn in your chosen Row 2 and every other row: Work 3 rows in gst.
colours. You will need
Rep Rows 1-12 another 6
K3, P to last 3 sts, K3. Cast off.
approximately 2 balls to times, then rep Rows 1-6 once
make one placemat and Row 3: K6, *yf, K3; rep from * more.
one coaster. to last 3 sts, K3. (81 sts).
Work 3 rows in gst. FINISHING
Colour 1: Citrus; 2 balls
Row 5: K4, K2tog, *yf, sl 1, K1,
Cast off. Sew in ends. Block and press
MEASUREMENTS psso, K1, k2tog, yf, sl 1, K2tog,
Placemat: 38x30cm psso; rep from * to last 11 sts, according to yarn band
Coaster: 11x11cm yf, sl 1, K1, psso, K1, K2tog, yf, sl instructions.

TENSION
Work 17 sts and 26 rows
in lace pattern to measure
10x10cm/4x4in using
4mm (US 6) needles, or
size required to obtain
correct tension.

SIAN
BROWN
After doing
a Fashion/
Textiles BA Sian worked
supplying to high street
retailers on machine
knits. She became
interested in handknits
and have designed
these since, working for
magazines, publishers
and yarn companies.
www.sianbrown.co.uk

Simple Steps to knitting 97

 The blanket is knitted as 7 vertical strips of 7 squares,
which are later sewn together.
The neat braid-like edge of the squares is created by
slipping first stitches. Sl 1 wyib if the first facing stitch
is knitted; sl 1 wyif if the first facing stitch is purled.
Each square is 17 sts wide and 24 rows high. The
number of completed squares can be changed
depending on the yarn/tension/desired size of
your blanket.

98 Simple Steps to knitting

STRAWBERRY PIE BLANKET
This knitted quilt is about everything one calls sweet home - cosiness,
warmth, and the smell of a freshly baked strawberry pie

Pattern Cut yarn leaving approx 20cm Row 2 (WS): As Row 1.

DIFFICULTY (8in) and pull it through the Row 3: Sl 1, (K1, P1) until the
STRIP COMPOSITION
loop of the last stitch.
+++++ Create each strip as follows:
end of the row.
Rows 4-23: Rep Rows 2-3
WHAT YOU NEED
SQUARE 1 another 10 times.
• 7mm needles Pattern (Square)
• Cable needle (optional) Cast on 17 sts. Row 24: As Row 1.
GARTER
• Tapestry needle Rows 1-24: Knit using any
Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, knit until the
• Scissors Square Pattern of your choice.
end of the row. BALUSTRADE
• In this project we have Stop after completing the WS
used a variety of aran/ row. Rows 2-24: Rep Row 1 Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, knit until the
chunky yarns. another 23 times. end of the row.
Cut the yarn and attach the
Rowan Pure Wool
new colour. Row 2 (WS): As Row 1.
Worsted (100% wool;
100g/200m) using 2 SEED (BRITISH MOSS) Row 3: Sl 1, (K1, P1) until the
strands held together end of the row.
throughout. SQUARE 2 Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, knit until the
Colours: Pink; 2 balls; end of the row. Row 4: Sl 1, (P1, K1) until the
Cream; 1 ball
Rows 1-24: Knit using any end of the row.
YarnArt Merino De Luxe Square Pattern of your choice. Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, (K1, P1) until
the end of the row. Row 5: As Row 3.
50 (50% wool, 50% Stop after completing the
acrylic; 100g/280m) WS row. Rows 3-24: Rep Row 2 Row 6: Sl 1, knit until the end of
- using 3 strands held the row.
together throughout. Cut the yarn and attach the another 22 times.
Colours: Ivory; 2 balls; new colour. Rows 7-24: Repeat Rows 1-6
Baby pink; 2 balls another 3 times.
YarnArt Merino Bulky
Follow the same instructions as BROKEN RIB
(30% wool, 70% acrylic; given for Square 2, for the next
Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, knit until the
100g/100m) 4 squares. BASKETWEAVE
Colours: Beige; 1 ball; end of the row.
Sand; 1 balls; Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, (P1, K1) until Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, knit until the
Cocoa; 1 ball SQUARE 7 end of the row.
the end of the row.
Each square requires Rows 1-24: Knit using any
approx 14g of yarn. Rows 3-24: Rep Rows 1-2 Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, (P2, K4) twice,
Square Pattern of your choice. P2, K2.
MEASUREMENTS another 11 times.
Stop after completing the WS
90x90cm (35½x35½in) Row 3: Sl 1, P1, (K2, P4) twice,
row.
K2, P1.
Each square is approx. Row 25 (RS): Cast off as CORN (SAME AS WS OF
Row 4: Sl 1, purl until the end
BROKEN RIB)
13x13cm (5x5in) follows: K1, (slip st back to
of the row.
TENSION left needle, K2tog) until 1 stitch Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, knit until the
Work 14 sts and 20 is left. Row 5: Sl 1, (P4, K2) twice, P4.
end of the row.
rows in garter stitch Row 6: Sl 1, K3, (P2, K4) twice,
(blocked) to measure K1.

KSENIA NAIDYON
10x10cm/4x4in using
7mm (US 10½ or US 11) Rows 7-24: Rep Rows 1-6
needles, or size required another 4 times.
Ksenia designs cosy knitwear and
to obtain correct tension
home decor that are a pleasure both
Tension is not critical and
to knit and to use. Her patterns feature DOUBLE MOSS
can be changed to fit the
desired yarn
modern colour palettes, interesting (LITTLE CHECK)
textures, and comfortable fit.
Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, knit until the
www.lifeiscozy.com
end of the row.

Simple Steps to knitting 99

 The pattern is great for
using leftover yarn as well
as for knitting up those
oddments from your
stash.

100 Simple Steps to knitting

 Strawberry pie blanket

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, (P2, K2) until Row 24: Sl 1, P2tog, purl until
the end of the row. the end of the row. (17 sts).
Row 3: Sl 1, P1, (K2, P2) 3 times,
K2, P1.
BLANKET SQUARES ORDER
Row 4: Sl 1, (K2, P2) until the
STRIP 1 (from the bottom up,
end of the row.
pattern/colour): Balustrade/
Row 5: Sl 1, K1, (P2, K2) 3 times, pink, Garter/cream, Broken
P2, K1. Rib/beige, Seed/ivory,
Rows 6-21: Rep Rows 2-5 Balustrade/pink, Basketweave/
another 4 times. cream, Gear/beige.
Row 22: As Row 2. STRIP 2: Corn/sand, Double
Row 23: As Row 3. Moss/baby pink, Basketweave/
Row 24: As Row 4. ivory, Garter/pink, Corn/
sand, Honeycomb/baby pink,
Double Moss/ivory
GEAR STRIP 3: Honeycomb/baby
Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, knit until the pink, Seed/ivory, Balustrade/
end of the row. beige, Gear/baby pink,
Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, P1, K2, P1, K2, Basketweave/cream, Seed/
P3, K2, P1, K2, P2. cocoa, Broken Rib/pink

Row 3: Sl 1, K1, P2, K1, P2, K3, STRIP 4: Corn/cream, Gear/

P2, K1, P2, K2. sand, Double Moss/pink,
Seed/ivory, Broken Rib/sand,
Row 4: As Row 2.
Basketweave/baby pink,
Row 5: Sl 1, P2, K3, P2, K1, P2,
Garter/ivory
K3, P2, K1.
STRIP 5: Broken Rib/cocoa,
Row 6: Sl 1, K2, P3, K2, P1, K2,
Garter/baby pink, Corn/ivory,
P3, K2, P1.
Balustrade/sand, Honeycomb/
Row 7: As Row 5.
pink, Double Moss/ivory, Gear/
Row 8: As Row 6.
baby pink
Row 9: Sl 1, K1, P2, K1, P2, K3,
STRIP 6: Seed/pink,
P2, K1, P2, K2.
Basketweave/ivory,
Row 10-17: Rep Rows 2-9
Honeycomb/beige, Corn/baby
once more.
pink, Garter/cream, Balustrade/
Rows 18-24: Repeat Rows 2-8 pink, Double Moss/sand
once.
STRIP 7: Double Moss/ivory,
Corn/sand, Garter/pink, Gear/
HONEYCOMB cream, Broken Rib/beige,
Seed/ivory, Corn/baby pink.
Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, knit until last 2
sts, Kfb, K1. (18 sts).
Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, purl until the FINISHING
end of the row. Block or steam the stripes into
Row 3: Sl 1, (C2B, C2F) until the shape.
last st, K1. Sew them together. Weave in
Row 4: As Row 2. ends.
Row 5: Sl 1, (C2F, C2B) until the
last st, K1.
Rows 6-21: Rep Rows 2-5
another 4 times.
Row 22: As Row 2
Row 23: As Row 3

Simple Steps to knitting 101

102 Simple Steps to knitting
CHEVRON CUSHION COVER
Simple knit and purl stitches are combined creatively to make this beautiful
chevron textured cushion

Pattern These 16 rows set chevron BUTTONHOLE BAND

DIFFICULTY pattern. Repeat until 96 rows
CUSHION Next row: K1, *P1, K1; rep from
have been worked.
+++++ Cast on 73 sts. * to end.
WHAT YOU NEED
Purl 2 rows to mark turn.
Row 1: K1, *P1, K1; rep from * Repeat this row.
• 5mm (US 8) needle
to end. Buttonhole row: K5, (k2tog, yo,
• 40cm x 40cm (15¾in x
Row 1 forms moss stitch BACK OVERLAP K10) five times, k2tog, yo, K6.
15¾in) cushion pad
• 6 x buttons pattern. Repeat this row until 5 Beg with a K row, work in st st Next row: K1, *P1, K1; rep from
• In this project we have rows have been worked. until overlap when folded over * to end.
used Debbie Bliss Beg with a K row, work in st sits at the top of the cast on Repeat this row.
Falkland Aran, 180m st until work measures 30 cm edge (approx 10cm).
(197yds) per 100g skein; Cast off.
100% wool. You will need from cast on edge, ending on Note; before starting the moss
to use aran weight yarn, a RS row. stitch border, fold this section
in your chosen colour(s) over. The stitches on the FINISHING
Next row (WS): K 1 row to
as follows: needle should sit just above
mark turn. Block and press edges. Sew up
Colour: Duck Egg; 1
the cast on edge. If they do the side seams. Sew on your
skein
not, work further rows until chosen buttons.
MEASUREMENTS FRONT they do.
Measures 40cm x 40cm
Row 1 (RS): K1, *P7, K1, rep
(15¾in x 15¾in) across,
laid flat
from * to end.
Row 2: P1, *K7, P1, rep from *
TENSION
18 stitches and 24 rows =
to end.
10cm (4in) over stst using Row 3: K2, *P5, K3, rep from *
5mm needles, or size to last 7 sts, P5, K2.
required to obtain tension.
Row 4: P2, *K5, P3, rep from *
to last 7 sts, K5, P2.
Row 5: K3, *P3, K5, rep from *

SIAN to last 6 sts, P3, K3.

Row 6: P3, *K3, P5, rep from *

BROWN
After doing
to last 6 sts, K3, P3.
Row 7: K4, *P1, K7, rep from *
to last 5 sts, P1, K4.
a Fashion/
Row 8: P4, *K1, P7, rep from *
Textiles BA Sian worked
to last 5 sts, K1, P4.
supplying to high street
retailers on machine knits. Row 9: As row 2.
She became interested Row 10: As Row 1.
in handknits and have Row 11: As Row 4.
designed these since,
Row 12: As Row 3.
working for magazines
and yarn companies. Row 13: As Row 6.
www.sianbrown.co.uk Row 14: As Row 5.
Row 15: As Row 8.
Row 16: As Row 7.

Simple Steps to knitting 103

 ERICA LUEDER
Erica lives in Iowa with her family and works as a nurse.
She spends almost all of her free time knitting, making
things with yarn/fibre, and creating new patterns.
www.hanlone79.etsy.com

104 Simple Steps to knitting

WINTER CABLES COWL & HAT
A cosy cabled cowl to help ward off the chill of winter

Pattern (Cowl) Rnd 3: *K1, P2, C4B, C4F, P2, the written instructions below,
DIFFICULTY K1, P1, K1, P1; rep from * to work Rnds 1-8.
TOP EDGING
end.
+++++ Cast on 119 sts. Taking care
Repeat Rnds 1-8 a further 4
Rnd 4-8: Rep Rnds 1-2 twice. times.
WHAT YOU NEED not to twist cast on edge place
• 74.5mm (US 7) circular marker and work in rounds.
needle, 40cm (16in) long,
2 x 4 mm (US 6) circular Rnd 1: *K1, P2, (K2, P1) twice, LOWER EDGING CABLE CHART
needle, 40cm (16in) long K2, P2, (K1, P1) twice; rep from Work 10 rnds in rib as for top cuff. Note: Chart shows 1 pattern
DPNs can be substituted * to end. Cast off loosely in rib. repeat. Repeat chart 7 times to
instead of using two
circular needles for Rnd 1 forms rib patt. Work a complete 1 full round.
crown decreases. further 9 rnds in rib. Rnd 1: *K1, P2, K8, P2, K1, P1,
• Stitch marker FINISHING
K1, P1; rep from * to end.
• Yarn Needle Weave in all ends. Wash and
MAIN BODY Rnd 2: *K1, P2, K8, P2, K1, P1, s1
• Cable Needle block as desired.
wyib, P1; rep from * to end.
• In this project we have Referring to either the chart or
the written instructions below, Rnd 3: *K1, P2, C4B, C4F, P2,
used Dreams in Fiber Pattern (Hat) K1, P1, K1, P1; rep from * to end.
Au Naturel Worsted, work Rnds 1-8.
183m (200yds) per skein; RIBBING Rnd 4-8: Rep Rnds 1-2 twice
50% Suffolk Blend/25% Repeat Rnds 1-8 a further 4
times, then rep Rnds 1-4 once Cast on 119 sts. Taking care more.
Merino/25% Alpaca. You
will need to use 1 skein more. not to twist cast on edge place
of an Aran weight yarn, marker and work in rounds.
SHAPE CROWN
in your chosen colour. Rnd 1: *K1, P2, (K2, P1) twice,
CABLE CHART Referring to either the chart
MEASUREMENTS K2, P2, (K1, P1) twice; rep from
or the written instructions
Hat: One size: to fit Note: Chart shows 1 pattern * to end.
medium adult head. This
below, work Rnds 1-20 of the
repeat. Repeat chart 7 times to Rnd 1 forms rib patt. Work a
hat is rather stretchy and crown shaping.
complete 1 full round further 24 rnds in rib.
will fit a variety of head Use the 2nd circular needle
circumferences.
Rnd 1: *K1, P2, K8, P2, K1, P1,
(or switch to dpns) when
K1, P1; rep from * to end.
Measures approximately MAIN BODY there are too few sts to work
30.5cm (12in) tall with rib Rnd 2: *K1, P2, K8, P2, K1, P1, s1 comfortably on 1 circular
Referring to either the chart or
unfolded at brim wyib, P1; rep from * to end. needle.
Measures approximately
43cm (17in) around brim, CABLE CHART FOR HAT AND COWL
unstretched.
17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Cowl: Measures 23 cm
(9in) deep and 45.5cm 8
(18in) in circumference.
7
TENSION
Hat: 27 sts and 30 rnds = 6
10cm (4in) over pattern on
4.5mm needles or size to 5
obtain correct tension.
4
Cowl: 26 sts and 28.5 rnds
= 10cm (4in) over pattern 3
on 4.5mm needles or size
to obtain correct tension. 2

Simple Steps to knitting 105

CROWN DECREASES CHART
CROWN DECREASES CHART
Note: Chart shows 1 pattern
repeat – repeat chart 7 times 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
to complete 1 full round. 20
Rnd 1: *K1, P2, K8, P2, K1, P1,
K1, P1; rep from * to end. (119 19
sts) 18
Rnd 2: *K1, P2, K8, p2tog, K1,
17
P1, s1 wyib, P1; rep from * to
end. (112 sts) 16
Rnd 3: *K1, P2, C4B, C4F, P1, K1,
15
P1, K1, P1; rep from * to end.
Rnd 4: *K1, P2, K7, p2tog, K1, 14
P1, s1 wyib, P1; rep from * to
13
end. (105 sts)
Rnd 5: *K1, P2, K7, P1, K1, P1, 12
K1, P1; rep from * to end.
11
Rnd 6: *K1, P2, K6, p2tog, K1,
P1, s1 wyib, P1; rep from * to 10
end. (98 sts)
9
Rnd 7: *K1, P2, K6, P1, K1, P1,
K1, P1; rep from * to end. 8

Rnd 8: *K1, P2, K5, p2tog, K1, 7

P1, s1 wyib, P1; rep from * to
end. (91 sts) 6

Rnd 9: *K1, P2, K5, P1, K1, P1, 5

K1, P1; rep from * to end.
4
Rnd 10: *K1, P2, K4, p2tog, K1,
P1, s1 wyib, P1; rep from * to 3
end. (84 sts)
2
Rnd 11: *K1, P2, C4B, P1, K1, P1,
K1, P1; rep from * to end. 1
Rnd 12: *K1, P2, K3, p2tog, K1,
P1, s1 wyib, P1; rep from * to Key
Knit Slip wyib
end. (77 sts) C4B
Rnd 13: *K1, P2, K3, P1, K1, P1,
K1, P1; rep from * to end. C4F Purl
Rnd 14: *K1, P2, K2, p2tog, K1,
P1, s1 wyib, P1; rep from * to
end. (70 sts)
Rnd 15: *K1, P2, K2, P1, K1, P1,
Rnd 19: *K1, p2tog, K1, P1, K1, Break yarn leaving a 25cm
K1, P1; rep from * to end.
P1; rep from * to end. (42 sts) (10in) tail. Using a yarn needle,
Rnd 16: *K1, P2, K1, p2tog, K1, thread through remaining sts
Rnd 20: *p2tog, K1, P1, s1 wyib,
P1, s1 wyib, P1; rep from * to and pull tight to fasten and
P1; rep from * to end. (35 sts)
end. (63 sts) secure.
Knit the final 2 rnds of crown
Rnd 17: *K1, P2, p2tog, K1, P1, K1, FINISHING
as follows:
P1; rep from * to end. (56 sts)
Next rnd: K2tog to last st, K1. Weave in ends on
Rnd 18: *K1, P1, p2tog, K1, P1, wrong side. Block
(18 sts)
s1 wyib, P1; rep from * to end. gently if desired.
(49 sts) Next rnd: *K2tog; rep from * to
end. (9 sts)

106 Simple Steps to knitting

Simple Steps to knitting 107
SPECIAL STITCHES left hand to slide the bead over next 2 sts together by working SSSK: Sl 1 st, sl a second st, sl a
the hook and yarn. Remove the a K2tog. Carefully lift the 3 sl sts third st, each as if to knit, and
Bead (B): Work a bead into this stitch from the hook and place it over the K2tog. each one separately. Knit all
knit stitch. If no bead is desired, on the left hand needle. Knit the three together through the back
simply work a knit stitch. Quadruple Decrease with Bead
st which has the bead on it. (QB): Work a bead into this of the sts.
Place a bead on your crochet Quadruple Decrease (QD): 5 decrease. If no bead is desired, K3tog: Worked exactly as a
hook. Using the hook in your sts will be decreased to just one simply work the QD instead. K2tog, except that you are
right hand, lift the stitch to be stitch. Sl 3 sts all together onto Work the QD as above. Add the knitting 3 sts together instead
worked onto the hook. Catching your right hand needle. Do NOT bead as above, but place onto of 2.
the stitch on the hook, use your slip them one at a time. Join the right needle not left at the end.

108 Simple Steps to knitting

WILLOWHERB LACE DOILY
This unique pattern begins as a square but evolves into a circular shape. Optional
beaded edging makes Willowherb an interesting and elegant project
Pattern Rnds 21, 23, 25, 27: (P1, K11) 8 Rnd 52: (K9, yo, B, yo, QB, yo,
DIFFICULTY times. B, yo, K8) 8 times.
WILLOWHERB DOILY
+++++ Using 3.5mm DPNs, cast on 8
Rnd 22: (P1, k2tog, K2, yo, K3,
yo, K2, ssk) 8 times.
WHAT YOU NEED sts and distribute evenly on 4 FINISHING
• 3.25mm set of 5 DPNS DPNs. Rnd 24: (P1, k2tog, K1, yo, K5,
Use a very stretchy bind off
(US D/3) Alternatively use yo, K1, ssk) 8 times.
4 DPNS, or a 60-80cm Be careful not to twist sts and for this doily. It must be able
long circular needle and join in the round. Rnd 26: (P1, K2tog, yo, K7, yo, to be spread out and will be
magic loop technique if ssk) 8 times. pulled very tightly to show the
preferred Rnd 1: Knit all sts.
Rnd 28: (K1, yo) to end of detailed lace pattern.
• Stitch Marker Rnd 2: (K1, yo) 8 times. (16 sts).
round. (192 sts).
• Crochet hook, 1mm Rnd 3: (K1, yo, K3, yo) 4 times.
(US 12) or other tool to After binding off and weaving
(24 sts).
attach beads, optional Note: You may wish to switch in all ends, gently wash your
Rnd 4: (K1, yo, K5, yo) 4 times. to circular needles at this time. doily and blot it dry using
• 88 glass beads, size 6/0
(optional) (32 sts). Mark the end of round with a absorbent towels. Stretch it out
• In this project we have Rnd 5: (K1, yo, K7, yo) 4 times. stitch marker. on a blocking surface,
used Knit Picks Palette (40 sts). such as a mat or quilt. Pin
in Pennyroyal. You will
Rnd 6: (K1, yo, K9, yo) 4 times. Rnds 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, the doily out, stretching it as
need to use Fingering
Weight, in your chosen (48 sts). 43: (K12, P1, K11) 8 times. far as possible into the desired
colour. You will need Rnd 30: (K2, yo, K1, yo, k 6, shape. Try to even out the
Rnd 7: (K1, yo, K11, yo) 4 times.
approximately 1 ball shape, so that the yarn overs
(56 sts). sssk, P1, K3tog, K6, yo, K1, yo,
MEASUREMENTS K1) 8 times. all line up properly. If you are
39cm (15¼in)
Rnd 8: (K1, yo, K13, yo) 4 times. using cotton thread or yarn,
(64 sts). Rnd 32: (K3, yo, K1, yo, k 5,
TENSION
starch will help your doily
Rnd 9: (K1, yo, K15, yo) 4 times. sssk, P1, K3tog, K5, yo, K1, yo,
Tension is not critical retain its shape. Allow to dry
(72 sts). K2) 8 times.
for the project but use a completely before removing
relatively loose tension.
Rnd 10: (K1, yo, K17, yo) 4 Rnd 34: (K4, yo, K1, yo, k 4, from blocking pad.
times. (80 sts). sssk, P1, K3tog, K4, yo, K1, yo,
K3) 8 times.
Rnd 11: (K1, yo, K19, yo) 4

LINDA
times. (88 sts). Rnd 36: (K5, yo, K1, yo, k 3,
sssk, P1, K3tog, K3, yo, K1, yo,
Rnd 12: (K1, yo, K4, P1, K2tog, K4) 8 times.

BROWNING
K3, yo, K1, yo, K3, ssk, P1, K4,
yo) 4 times. (96 sts). Rnd 38: (K6, yo, K1, yo, k 2,
sssk, P1, K3tog, K2, yo, K1, yo,
Linda has designed over Rnds 13, 15, 17, 19: (K6, P1, K5) K5) 8 times.
50 patterns for magazines, 8 times.
yarn companies, craft Rnd 40: (K7, yo, K1, yo, k 1, sssk,
Round 14: (K2, yo, K2, ssk, P1, P1, K3tog, K1, yo, K1, yo, K6) 8
books, and most of all, K2tog, K2, yo, K1) 8 times.
knitters! Many of her times.
Round 16: (K3, yo, K1, ssk, P1, Rnd 42: (K8, yo, K1, yo, sssk, P1,
patterns feature lace, but
K2tog, K1, yo, K2) 8 times. K3tog, yo, K1, yo, K7) 8 times.
she also loves colourwork,
cables, and beads. Round 18: (K4, yo, ssk, P1, Rnds 44, 46, 48, 50: (K9, yo, B,
www.tinyknit.com K2tog, yo, K3) 8 times. yo, QD, yo, B, yo, K8) 8 times.
Round 20: (P1, K2tog, K3, yo, Rnd 45 and all other odd
K1, yo, K3, ssk) 8 times. rounds: Knit all sts.

Simple Steps to knitting 109

 DONNA JONES
Donna Jones designs, edits and teaches
handknitting & crochet. She firmly
believes creative expression is essential
for our well-being and aims to facilitate
this in others. You can follow Donna’s
knitterly adventures on Instagram - @djonesdesigns
www.donnajonesdesigns.co.uk

110 Simple Steps to knitting

GRADIENT SHAWL
This stylish, asymmetric shawl is easy to wear and knit, and is great for
showcasing beautiful gradient yarns
Pattern Rows 53-54: Cont to shape Change to col 1.
DIFFICULTY edges as set, work 2 rows in Rows 125-128: Cont to shape
Note: The shawl is knitted flat,
gst pattern. (31 sts)
+++++ but a circular needle is used edges as set, work 4 rows in
to accommodate the large Row 55 (eyelet row): Sl l wyib, gst pattern. (68 sts).
WHAT YOU NEED
• 3.75mm circular needle, number of stitches that there yfwd, K1, *yfwd, K2tog; rep Row 129 (eyelet row): Sl l wyib,
80cm (32in) long will be at the cast off edge. from * to last st, K1. (32 sts). yfwd, K1, *yfwd, K2tog; rep
• Yarn needle Shaping is worked at the edges Row 56: Sl l wyib, K2tog, K to from * to end. (69 sts).
• In this project we have of every row, and the number last st, Kfb. (32 sts). Rows 130-132: Cont to shape
used Dyeninja High Twist
of stitches will increase by 1 Change to col 2. edges as set, work 3 rows in
Merino Fingering for
colour 1 and Bilum Slika stitch for every 2 rows worked. Rows 57-76: Beg with a knit gst pattern. (70 sts).
hand dyed gradient 4 row and cont to shape edges Change to col 2.
ply for Colour 2. You will
as set, work 20 rows in st-st Rows 133-148: Beg with a knit
need to use 4 ply yarn, in SHAWL
your chosen colours. You pattern. (42 sts). row and cont to shape edges
will need approximately 1 Using 3.75mm circular needle
Change to col 1. as set, work 16 rows in st-st
skein in each colour. and col 1, cast on 4 sts.
Rows 77-80: Cont to shape pattern. (78 sts).
Colour 1: Limestone; Row 1 (RS): Sl l wyib, Kfb, knit
100g/365m edges as set, work 4 rows in Change to col 1.
Colour 2: Yellow to Blue to end. (5 sts).
gst pattern. (44 sts). Rows 149-158: Cont to shape
gradient; 100g/400m Row 2 (WS): Sl l wyib, K2tog,
Row 81 (eyelet row): Sl l wyib, edges as set, work 10 rows in
MEASUREMENTS knit to last st, Kfb. (5 sts).
yfwd, K1, *yfwd, K2tog; rep gst pattern. (83 sts).
Approximately 230cm Rows 1 & 2 set gst pattern, from * to end. (45 sts). Change to col 2.
(90½in) wide and with increases and decrease
55cm (21¾in) deep Rows 82-84: Cont to shape
at edges, and all gst pattern
after blocking. Final edges as set, work 3 rows in
rows will be worked in this SPECIAL STITCHES
measurements will vary gst pattern. (46 sts).
way throughout the rest of the Sl l wyib: with yarn at back
depending on how Change to col 2.
aggressively the shawl is
piece. of work, slip 1 stitch across
blocked. Rows 3-32: Cont to shape Rows 85-102: Beg with a knit from left hand needle to
row and cont to shape edges right hand needle
TENSION edges as set, work a further 30
rows in gst pattern. (20 sts). as set, work 18 rows in st-st Sl l wyif: with yarn at front
Work 24 sts and 34 rows
pattern. (55 sts). of work, slip 1 stitch from
in stocking stitch to Change to col 2. left hand needle to right
measure 10x10cm/4x4in Change to col 1.
Row 33: Sl l wyib, Kfb, knit to hand needle
before blocking, using Rows 103-104: Cont to shape
3.75mm (US 5) needles,
end. (21 sts). gst pattern: garter stitch
edges as set, work 2 rows in pattern rows are worked as
or size required to obtain Row 34: Sl l wyif, P2tog, purl to
gst pattern. (56 sts). follows:
correct tension. last st, Pfb. (21 sts).
Row 105 (eyelet row): Sl l wyib, First Row (RS): Sl l wyib, Kfb,
These 2 rows set st-st pattern,
yfwd, K1, *yfwd, K2tog; rep knit to end. (+ 1 stitch).
with increases and decrease
from * to end. (57 sts). Second Row (WS): Sl l wyib,
at edges, and all st-st pattern
Row 106: Sl l wyib, K2tog, knit K2tog, knit to last st, Kfb.
rows will be worked in this
way throughout the rest of the to last st, Kfb. (57 sts). st-st pattern: stocking
piece. Change to col 2. stitch pattern rows are
worked as follows:
Rows 35-52: Cont to shape Rows 107-124: Beg with a knit
First Row (RS): Sl l wyib,
edges as set, work a further 18 row and cont to shape edges
Kfb, knit to end. (+ 1 stitch).
rows in st-st pattern. (30 sts). as set, work 18 rows in st st Second Row (WS): Sl l wyif,
Change to col 1. pattern. (66 sts). P2tog, purl to last st, Pfb.

Simple Steps to knitting 111

Rows 159-174: Beg with a knit from * to last st, K1. (94 sts). Change to col 1. Change to col 2.
row and cont to shape edges Rows 180-182: Cont to shape Rows 203-204: Cont to shape Rows 207-228: Beg with a knit
as set, work 16 rows in st-st edges as set, work 3 rows in edges as set, work 2 rows in row and cont to shape edges
pattern. (91 sts). gst pattern. (95 sts). gst pattern. (106 sts). as set, work 22 rows in st-st
Change to col 1. Change to col 2. Row 205 (eyelet row): Sl l pattern. (118 sts).
Rows 175-178: Cont to shape Rows 183-202: Beg with a knit wyib, yfwd, K1, *yfwd, K2tog; Change to col 1.
edges as set, work 4 rows in row and cont to shape edges rep from * to end. (107 sts). Rows 229-232: Cont to shape
gst pattern. (93 sts). as set, work 20 rows in st-st Row 206: Sl l wyib, K2tog, knit edges as set, work 4 rows in
Row 179 (eyelet row): Sl l wyib, pattern. (105 sts). to last st, Kfb. (107 sts). gst pattern. (120 sts).
yfwd, K1, *yfwd, K2tog; rep

112 Simple Steps to knitting

 Gradient shawl

pattern. (134 sts). Cont to shape edges as set, Picot cast-off: cast off 2 sts,
Change to col 1. work 3 rows in gst pattern. *transfer stitch on right-hand
(167 sts) needle back into left-hand
Rows 261-276: Cont to shape
Change to col 2. needle, cast on 2 sts, cast off
edges as set, work 16 rows in
4 sts; rep from * to end, fasten
gst pattern. (142 sts). Rows 327-364: Beg with a knit
off.
Change to col 2. row and cont to shape edges
as set, work 38 rows in st-st
Rows 277-310: Beg with a knit
pattern. (186 sts). FINISHING
row and cont to shape edges
as set, work 34 rows in st-st Note: if desired you can Sew in all ends on wrong
pattern. (159 sts). continue working in col 2 at side. Blocking is easy and
this point, until your yarn runs will dramatically improve the
Change to col 1.
out, ending with a WS row. appearance of your shawl and
Rows 311-314: Cont to shape
Change to col 1. should not be skipped. Block
edges as set, work 4 rows in
Rows 365-412: Cont to shape by first soaking and gently
gst pattern. (161 sts).
edges as set, work 48 rows in squeezing excess water out.
Row 315 (eyelet row): Sl l wyib, Alternatively spray liberally
gst pattern. (210 sts).
yfwd, K1, *yfwd, K2tog; rep with cool water, patting the
from * to last st, K1. (162 sts). Row 413 (eyelet row): Sl l wyib,
water into the knitting until
yfwd, K1, *yfwd, K2tog; rep
Rows 316-322: Cont to shape thoroughly wet then pin out
from * to end. (211 sts)
edges as set, work 7 rows in flat to dimensions given - the
gst pattern. (165 sts). Rows 414-416: Cont to shape longest edge will be gently
edges as set, work 3 rows in curved, and the other two
Row 323 (eyelet row): Sl l
gst pattern. (212 sts). edges will be straight. Leave
wyib, yfwd, K1, *yfwd, K2tog;
rep from * to last st, K1. (166 Cast off knit-wise for a plain to try dry completely before
sts). edge if preferred or work picot unpinning - this may take a few
cast off as follows: days but be patient or it won’t
Rows 324-326: be fully blocked.

When you finish each row, check the

ends to ensure you have increased or
decreased correctly, as it can be easy
to lose track and will save you a lot of
time undoing any mistakes if found
later, particularly when your
rows get very long towards
the end of the project.

Row 233 (eyelet row): Sl l

wyib, yfwd, K1, *yfwd, K2tog;
rep from * end. (121 sts).
Rows 234-236: Cont to shape
edges as set, work 3 rows in
gst pattern. (122 sts).
Change to col 2.
Rows 237-260: Beg with a knit
row and cont to shape edges
as set, work 24 rows in st-st

Simple Steps to knitting 113

 KSENIA
NAIDYON
Ksenia designs cosy knitwear and home decor
that are a pleasure both to knit and to use.
Her patterns feature modern color palettes,
interesting textures, and comfortable fit.
lifeiscozy.com

114 Simple Steps to knitting

FOX ISLE SOCKS
These socks combine two amazing things – Fair Isle knitting and foxes!
Designed for long cosy evenings, when extra warmth is so much appreciated.

SPECIAL STITCHES Rnds 19-24: K20 sts of Chart 1 Pattern contains slightly
DIFFICULTY three times for 6 rnds. different instructions for the
s1wyib: Slip 1 stitch as if to
+++++ knit holding yarn at the back Rnd 25: (K15 as Chart 2, k2tog) right and left sock at the heel
WHAT YOU NEED of work 4 times. 60sts left on the part. This is made to place the
• 3.25mm set of 5 DPNS s1wyif: Slip 1 stitch as if to needle. transition column of Fair Isle
(US D/3) Alternatively use purl holding yarn at the front stitches at the beginning of
4 DPNS, or a 60-80cm of work Rnds 26-56: K20 sts of Chart 2
each round to the inner side
long circular needle and three times for 31 rnds.
w&t: Wrap and turn: Bring of legs.
magic loop technique if
yarn to the front, slip 1 stitch Note: If you want to adjust the
preferred
as if to purl, bring yarn to the length of the leg, repeat or
• Stitch markers back, return slipped stitch
omit rnds from Chart 2 before Left sock only:
• Stitch holder (optional) onto LH needle, turn of 2
finishing with Rnds 54-56. Rnd 1: K30 and place on
• Sock blockers
holder (for instep), K to end.
• Tapestry needle
• In this project we have
Pattern HEEL
30 sts
used Cascade Yarn RIBBING Heel is worked with col 1 only.
Heritage Solids, 400m
(437yds) per 100g skein;
With col 1 cast on 70 sts. Break off all other colours Right sock only:
75% merino, 25% nylon. Taking care not to twist cast on leaving tails long enough for Rnd 1: Knit to end, placing last
You will need to use 4 ply edge, arrange sts evenly over 4 weaving in. 30sts worked onto a holder
sock yarn, in your chosen DPNs, Place maker and work
colour(s) as follows:
in rounds.
Colour 1: Charcoal; 1 LEG CHART 1
skein Rnd 1: *K1, P1, rep from * to end.
Colour 2: Pumpkin; 1
skein Rnd 1 forms 1x1 rib. Work a
Colour 3: Snow; 1 skein further 11 rnds in 1x1 rib.
Colour 4: Grey; 1 skein Cuff will be approx 4cm (1.5in)
Colour 5: Black;
- work a few more rnds if you
oddments
prefer a longer cuff.
MEASUREMENTS
To fit size M woman’s
or S-M man’s foot with LEG
negative ease for a good
Rnds 1-17: K20 sts of Chart 1
fit
three times. (17 rnds)
Circumference around
lower leg measures 25cm Rnd 18: K10 as Chart 1, (k2tog,
(10in) K8 as Chart 1) 6 times. 64 sts
Circumference around
foot measures 20cm (8in) KEY
Foot length measures no stitch col 1
23cm (9in)
Length of sock from heel k2tog col 2
up measures 19cm (7 ½in)
k2tog col 3
TENSION
28 stitches and 38 rounds col 4
= 110 cm (4in) over
stocking stitch col 5

Simple Steps to knitting 115

LEG CHART 2 FOOT CHART

(for instep). 30 sts st, pick up the wrapped loop

and K tog with the stitch it was
wrapped around, turn.
Both socks:
Begin working in rows back and Row 2 (WS): S1 wyif, P until
forth with these 30 sts only. first wrapped st, pick up the
wrapped loop and P tog with
Row 2 (RS): S1wyib, K until 1
the stitch it was wrapped
last st, w&t.
around, turn.
Row 3 (WS): P to last st, w&t.
Row 3 (RS): S1 wyib, K until
Row 4: K to last st before the first wrapped st, pick up the
wrapped st, w&t. wrapped loop and K tog with
Row 5: P to last st before the the stitch it was wrapped
wrapped st, w&t. around, turn. instep back on the working Leave the yarn here. PM to
Repeat Rows 4-5 until there Repeat Rows 2-3 until all needles. 60sts mark the beginning of the
are 10 unwrapped sts left in stitches of heel have Beg knitting in the round again. round.
the middle. been worked. Rnd 1: K30 sts of the heel; K30 This places the transition
sts of the instep. column of Fair Isle stitches
to the sole, making it invisible
HEEL TURN FOOT TRANSITION Rnd 2: As Rnd 1. from the top.
Row 1 (RS): K to first wrapped Return the 30 sts for the Rnd 3: K15 sts of the heel.

116 Simple Steps to knitting

Rearrange sts evenly across SHAPE TOE Rnds 3-4: K 2 rows. for the sole and 10 sts for the
needles. Rep rows 2-4 once more instep)
Toe is worked with col 1 only.
FOOT Break off the strands of all Rnd 8: As Rnd 2. Cast off all sts and sew closed
Rnds 1-45: Work 45 rnds of other colors leaving tails long as a horizontal seam, OR use
Rnd 9: Knit.
Foot Chart, or to 5cm (2in) less enough for weaving in. kitchener stitch to graft the sts
Repeat Rnds 8-9 until 40 sts of toe closed.
than required length of foot. Rnd 1: K15, PM, K30, PM, K15. rem.
Note: If you want to adjust the FINISHING
Rnd 2: (K to 2 sts before next Next continue making
length of the foot, repeat or Weave in ends. Wash the socks
M, k2tog, SM, ssk) twice, K to decreases (as Rnd 2) on every
omit rnds before finishing with in luke-warm water and block
end. rnd until 20 sts rem. (10 sts
Rnds 43-45. until dry.

Simple Steps to knitting 117

 KSENIA NAIDYON
Ksenia designs cosy knitwear and home decor
that are a pleasure both to knit and to use.
Her patterns feature modern color palettes,
interesting textures, and comfortable fit.
www.lifeiscozy.com

118 Simple Steps to knitting

COSY JUNE CUSHION
The design for this cushion cover was inspired by ancient Celtic ornaments.
Knitted in a bright color of the sea and summer sky, such stylish cushion will add a
bit of summer to your home
Pattern

Referring to EITHER the chart

OR the written instructions
• 5.5mm (US 9) needles below, work Rows 1-16.
With 3 strands held together,
• Cable needle Repeat Rows 1-16 a further 4
cast on 58 sts.
• Yarn Needle times.
Row 1 (WS): S1 wyif, P1, *K2,
• Scissors
P2; rep from* to end. Row 1 (RS): S1 wyif, P1, K1 tbl,
• 4 x buttons P1, C2B; P3, K2, P1, K2, P3; K2,
Row 2 (RS): S1 wyib, K1, *P2,
• 16”x16”/40x40cm pillow (P1, K1 tbl) 3 times, P1; C4B,
insertthe Andes, K2; rep from* to end.
K2; (P1, K1 tbl) 3 times, P1, K2;
• In this project we have Rows 3-6: Rep Rows 1-2
P3, K2, P1, K2, P3; C2F, P1, K1
used YarnArt Jeans, twice more (total of 6 rows of
159m/174yds per 50g tbl, P2.
ribbing).
ball; 55% cotton, 45% Row 2 (WS): S1 wyib, K1, P1 tbl,
acrylic, with 3 strands Row 7 (WS): S1 wyif, P to end.
K1, P2; K3, P2, K1, P2, K3; P2,
held together. You will
Row 8 (RS): S1 wyib, K to end. (K1, P1 tbl) 3 times, K1; P6; (K1,
need to use DK weight
yarn, in your chosen Rows 7 and 8 set st st pattern P1 tbl) 3 times, K1, P2; K3, P2,
colour as follows: with slipped stitch edges. K1, P2, K3; P2, K1, P1 tbl, K2.
Colour: Turquoise; 6 balls
Continue in st st as set for a Row 3: S1 wyif, P1, K1 tbl, P1,
further 73 rows or until work C2B; P3, T5BP, P3; T4F, (P1, K1
Approx 38cm x 38cm measures 38cm (15in), ending tbl) twice, P1; K2, C4F; (P1, K1
(15in x 15in) laid flat, tbl) twice, P1, T4B; P3, T5FP, P3;
with a WS row.
unstretched.
Fits 40.5cm x 40.5cm (16
x 16in) insert with negative
I S I
ease for a snug fit.
s1wyib: Slip 1st as if to knit holding yarn at back of work
s1wyif: Slip 1st as if to purl holding yarn at front of work
13 stitches and 20 rows =
10cm (4in) over stocking MB: Make bobble: K into the front, back, front, of next st, turn and P3, turn and sssk
stitch with 5.5mm needles, sssk: slip, slip, slip, knit: s3 sts as if to knit one by one, K the 3 sts together tbl
or size to obtain correct C2B: Cable 2 backwards: s1 st onto CN and hold at back, K1 from LH needle, K1 from CN
tension, after blocking. C2F: Cable 2 forwards: s1 st onto CN and hold at front, K1 from LH needle, K1 from CN
C4B: Cable 4 backwards: s2 sts onto CN and hold at back, K2 from LH needle, K2 from CN
C4F: Cable 4 forwards: s2 sts onto CN and hold at front, K2 from LH needle, K2 from CN
T3B: Twist 3 backwards: s1 st onto CN and hold at back, K2 from LH needle, P1 from CN
T3F: Twist 3 forwards: s2 sts onto CN and hold at front, P1 from LH needle, K2 from CN
T4B: Twist 4 backwards: s2 sts onto CN and hold at back, K2 from LH needle, P2 from CN
T4F: Twist 4 forwards: s2 sts onto CN and hold at front, P2 from LH needle, then K2 from CN
T4BP:Twist 4 backwards purl: s2 sts onto CN and hold at back, K2 from LH needle, (P1, K1) from CN
T4FP: Twist 4 forwards purl: s2 sts onto CN and hold at front, (K1, P1) from LH needle, k2 from CN
T5BP: Twist 5 backwards purl: s3 sts onto CN and hold at back, K2 from LH needle, (P1, K2) from CN
T5FP: Twist 5 forwards purl: s2 sts onto CN and hold at front, (K2, P1) from LH needle, K2 from CN

Simple Steps to knitting 119

120 Simple Steps to knitting
 Cosy June cushion

Row 8: S1 wyib, K, P1 tbl, K1, K2; rep from* to end.

P2; K1, P2, K5, P2, K7; P2, K1; Row 12 (WS): S1 wyif, P1, *K2,
P6; K1, P2; K7, P2, k5, P2, K1; P2; rep from* to end.
P2, K1, P1 tbl, K2.
Row 13 ( buttonhole row 1):
Row 9: S1 wyif, P1, K1 tbl, P1, S1 wyib, K1, P2, K2; ssk, slip st
C2B; P1, K2, P2, MB, P2, K2, P4; back to LH needle, k2tog; K1,
MB, P2, K2, P1; C4B, K2; P1, K2, (P2, K2) 3 times; ssk, slip st back
P2, MB; P4, K2, P2, MB, P2, K2, to LH needle, k2tog; K1, (P2,
P1; C2F, P1, K1 tbl, P2. K2) twice; ssk, slip st back to
Row 10: S1 wyib, K1, P1 tbl, K1, LH needle, k2tog; K1, (P2, K2)
P2; K1, P2, K5, P2, K7; P2, K1; 3 times; ssk, slip st back to LH
P6; K1, P2; K7, P2, K5, P2, K1; needle, k2tog; K1, P2, K2.
P2, K1, P1 tbl, K2. Row 14 (buttonhole row 2): S1
Row 11: S1 wyif, P1, K1 tbl, P1, wyif, P1, K2, P2; yo twice; (P2,
C2B; P1, T3F, P3, T3B, P2; MB, K2) 3 times, P2; yo twice, (p2,
P2, T4BP, P1; K2, C4F; P1, T4FP, K2) twice, P2; yo twice; (p2,
P2, MB, P2, T3F, P3, T3B, P1; K2) 3 times, P2; yo twice; P2,
C2F, P1, K1 tbl, P2. K2, P2.
Row 12: S1 wyib, K1, P1 tbl, K1, Row 15: S1 wyib, K1, *P2, K2;
P2; K2, P2, K3, P2, K6; P2, K1, rep from* to end.
P1 tbl, K1; P6; K1, P1 tbl, K1, P2; Row 16: S1 wyif, P1, *K2, P2;
K6, P2, K3, P2, K2; P2, K1, P1 rep from* to end.
tbl, K2.
Cast off: K1, *slip st back to
Row 13: S1 wyif, P1, K1 tbl, LH needle, k2tog; rep from *
P1, C2B; P2, T3F, P1, T3B, P4; to end.
T4BP, P1, K1 tbl, P1; C4B, K2;
P1, K1 tbl, P1, T4FP; P4, T3F, P1,
T3B, P2; C2F, P1, K1 tbl, P2. FINISHING
The cushion cover is knitted in one rectangular piece. It Row 14: S1 wyib, K1, P1 tbl, Weave in ends and block
is then folded and the sides of Back and Front are sewn K1,P2; K3, P2, K1, P2, K5; P2, gently.
together (see schematic on page 119). (K1, P1 tbl) twice, K1; P6; (K1, P1
The neat side edges are created by slipping the first Fold the cushion cover so
tbl) twice, K1, P2; K5, P2, K1, P2, the Back and Front pieces are
stitches of every row.
K3; P2, K1, P1 tbl, K2. aligned and Flap folds over
Instructions for the cable panel are provided in both
charted and written instructions Row 15: S1 wyif, P1, K1 tbl, P1, over the Back.
When reading charts, the RS rows read from right to C2B; P3, T5BP, P3; T4BP, (P1, Sew the sides of Back and
left, and the WS rows from left to right. K1 tbl) twice, P1; K2, C4F; (P1, Front together, leaving the Flap
K1 tbl) twice, P1, T4FP; P3, free.
T5FP, P3; C2F, P1, K1 tbl, P2.
Sew buttons onto back button
Row 16: S1 wyib, K1, P1 tbl, K1, band to correspond with
P2; K3, P2, K1, P2, K3; P2, (K1, buttonholes. Insert cushion
P1 tbl) 3 times, K1; P6; (K1, P1 pad.
tbl) 3 times, K1, P2; K3, P2, K1,
P2, K3; P2, K1, P1 tbl, K2.

Repeat the pattern width ways

Row 1 (RS): S1 wyib, K to end.
and length ways to create a
Row 2 (WS): S1 wyif, P to end. bigger floor cushion . Cast on
Rows 3-10: Rep Rows 1-2 a 116 stitches to begin, repeating
further 4 times (total of 10 rows each row twice, and
worked). continue for double the
Buttonhole band amount of rows.

Row 11 (RS): S1 wyib, K1, *P2,

Simple Steps to knitting 121

 SIAN BROWN
After doing a Fashion/Textiles
BA Sian worked supplying
to high street retailers on
machine knits. She became
interested in handknits and have
designed these since, working for magazines,
publishers and yarn companies.
www.sianbrown.co.uk

122 Simple Steps to knitting

 FLOWER FAIRISLE BAG
Apply your Fair Isle skills and make this cute bag: the perfect spring accessory

Pattern Work 2 rows st st with col 1 Change to col 4 and cast off.
only.
Continue working each chart FINISHING
Make 2 pieces
as set, with 2 rows st st using
WHAT YOU NEED Sew in ends on wrong side.
With col 1, cast on 50 sts. col 1 between each Fair Isle
• 4.5mm (US 7) needles.
K one row. section, until 3 lots of each Block and press under a damp
• Fabric for Lining
chart have been worked (6 Fair cloth.
• Wadding Work 3 rows stocking stitch.
Isle sections). Embroider centres of flowers
• 1 button
Work 2 rows stocking st with using French knots with col 4.
• 1 press stud
F I col 1 only. Pin and sew bottom seam.
• In this project we have
used Rooster Almerino Row 1: P2 with col 1, (P15 sts Pin side seams and sew using a
Aran, 94m/102yds per of row 1 from chart 1) 3 times, BORDER mattress seam.
50g ball; 50% Alpaca, then 1st st once more, P2 with
50% Merino wool. You Continue with col 1. Pin and sew straps.
col 1.
will need to use Aran Row 1: K2, *P2, K2; rep from * Pin and sew tab to centre of
weight yarn, in your Row 2: K2 with col 1, (K15 sts
to end. the back inside the bag, and
chosen colour(s) as of row 2 from chart 1) 3 times,
follows: Row 2: P2, *K2, K2; rep from * fold over to the front with the
then 1st st once more, K2 with
Colour 1: Cornish; to end. cast off row with RS facing to
188m/204yds col 1.
the front.
Colour 2: Beach; Continue until 7 rows of the These 2 rows form 2x2 rib.
94m/102yds Sew the press stud and button
chart have been worked, Repeat these 2 rows a further
Colour 3: Gooseberry; onto the tab.
94m/102yds
working K2/ P2 with col 1 at 4 times until 6 rows of 2 x 2 rib
Colour 4: Custard; the beginning and end of each have been worked.
oddment row as set. Change to col 4 and cast off. LINING
MEASUREMENTS Work 2 rows st st with col 1 only. Cut out the lining and wadding
Measures 25cm (10in) pieces large enough when
wide x 30cm (11¾) deep, folded in half to fit the bag
laid flat. With col 1, cast on 8 sts. with a little extra for a seam
TENSION Row 1: K1 with col 1, (K16 sts of Row 1: K2, P2 to end. allowance).
19 stitches and 23 rows row 1 from chart 2) 3 times, K1
Repeat this row until straps Pin the lining to the wadding.
= 10cm (4in) in stocking with col 1.
measure 40cm (15¾in). Fold over the top edge and
stitch using 4.5mm Row 2: P1 with col 1, (P16 sts of
needles, or size required to Cast off. machine sew it in place.
row 2 from chart 2) 3 times, P1
obtain tension. with col 1. Put the lining into the bag and
With col 1, cast on 8 sts. pin the other top edge, so that
Continue until 9 rows of the
the lining finishes just under the
chart have been worked, Row 1: K2, P2 to end.
cast off edge of the bag.
working K1/P1 with col 1 at the Repeat until tab measures 5cm
beginning and end of each Pin and sew one of the side
(2in).
row as set. seams.
16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
9
Put the lining into the bag
Col 1 Col 2 Col 3 8 and pin the other side seam. It
7 7 is better if the lining is smaller
6 6 than the bag, and is eased
5 5 into place.
4 4 Sew the second side seam.
3
3 Place the lining into the bag
2 2 and hand sew in place.
1 1
15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Simple Steps to knitting 123

 SIAN
BROWN
After doing a Fashion/
Textiles BA Sian
worked supplying to high street
retailers on machine knits. She
became interested in handknits
and have designed these since,
working for magazines, publishers
and yarn companies.
www.sianbrown.co.uk

SimpleSteps
124 Simple StepstotoCrochet
Crochet

124 Simple Steps to knitting

FINGERLESS GLOVES
Use basic lace techniques to create these fun hand warmers

Pattern marker, m1L, place marker, K to Work two rows in stocking st

DIFFICULTY end. 41 sts starting with a P row.
+++++ Row 1: K13.
Row 20: P to end slipping Change to 4mm needles, K 3
markers. rows. Cast off.
WHAT YOU NEED
Row 2 and all WS rows: P13.
• 4mm (US 8) Rep rows 19 and 20 until there
Row 3: K4, k2tog, yo, K1, yo,
4.5mm (US 7) are 51 sts.
ssk, K4.
4.5mm circular needle Row 31: K3, work lace panel,
(optional) Row 5: K3, k2tog, yo, K3, yo, Using 4mm needles cast on
K1, s1, remove marker, place
ssk, K3. 37 sts and work as right mitt to
• 2 Stitch markers next 15 sts on holder, remove
Row 10.
• Yarn needle Row 7: K2, (k2tog, yo) twice, marker, slip st back to LH
• In this project we have K1, (yo, ssk) twice, K2. needle, K into 2nd st and then Row 11: K21, work row one of
used Debbie Bliss 1st stitch on left needle, drop lace panel, K to end.
Row 9: K1, (k2tog, yo) twice,
Donegal Luxury Tweed Row 12: Purl.
K3, (yo, ssk) twice, K1. both stitches off LH needle, K
Aran , 88m (96yds) per
50g ball; 90% Wool, 10% Row 11: (K2tog, yo) 3 times, K1, to end. 36 sts Row 13: K21, work row three of
Angora. You will need to (yo, ssk) 3 times. Row 32: Purl. lace panel, K to end.
use Aran weight yarn in
your chosen colour as Row 13: K13. Cont straight until 2 whole Row 14: Purl.
follows: repeats of lace panel have These rows set position of lace
Row 14: P13.
Colour: Aqua, sh been completed. panel. Work two more rows
360048; 50g/88m
Change to 4mm needles and as set.
MEASUREMENTS K 4 rows. Row 17 (inc): K18, place
Circumference around
Using 4mm needles cast on Next row (dec): K17, k2tog, K marker, m1R, K1, m1L, place
palm measures measures
37 sts. to end. 35 sts marker, K2, work lace panel, K
18.5cm (7¼in)
Work 6 rows in garter st. Cast off: Cast off 2 sts, *slip st to end. 39 sts
Use a smaller needle size
for tighter gloves Change to 4.5mm needles to LH needle, cast on 2 sts, cast Row 18: P to end slipping
off 4 sts; rep from * to end. markers.
TENSION Work 4 rows in st st starting
19 stitches and 24 rows = with a knit row. Complete to match right mitt
10cm (4in)over stocking keeping lace panel correct.
Row 11: K3, work row one of
stitch using 4.5mm
lace panel, K to end. Place 15 thumb sts on 4.5mm
needles, or size required
to obtain tension Row 12: Purl. needles (you may find it easier FINISHING
Row 13: K3, work row three of to use circular needle. Pick Join side and thumb seams
lace panel, K to end. up and K1 st from gap above using mattress stitch. Weave
thumb sts, ssk, K11, k2tog, pick in ends.
SPECIAL STITCHES Row 14: Purl.
up and K 1 st from gap. 15 sts
M1L: Make one left: insert These rows set position of lace
Row 1 (WS): Purl.
LH needle from front to panel. Work two more rows
back under strand of yarn as set. Row 2 (dec): K1, ssk, k9, k2tog,
between sts, knit tbl K1. 13 sts
Row 17 (inc): K3, work lace
M1R: Make one right: insert panel, K2, place marker, m1R,
LH needle from back to K1, m1L, place marker, K to
front under strand of yarn end. 39 sts
between sts, knit
Row 18: P to end slipping
markers.
Row 19 (inc): K3, work lace
panel, K2, sm, m1R, K to

Simple Steps to knitting 125

 KSENIA
NAIDYON
Ksenia designs cosy knitwear and home decor
that are a pleasure both to knit and to use.
Her patterns feature modern color palettes,
interesting textures, and comfortable fit.
lifeiscozy.com

126 Simple Steps to knitting

FOREVER APRIL SWEATER
This off-the-shoulder sweater has the spirit of April shaped into a knitted garment. It
is soft, stylish, and oh-so-cosy, ideal for long spring walks and romantic evenings
Pattern wrapped around; K6, w&t, wrapped around; (K to 1 stitch
DIFFICULTY reposition SRM1. before next M, m1R, K1, SM,
D
K1, m1L) twice; K to SRM2 and
+++++ With 2.25mm circular needle,
Row 4 (WS): P to BRM; SM,
P1, m1R (making a P stitch), P remove it, pick up the wrapped
WHAT YOU NEED cast on 172[188 : 204]sts. loop and ssk with the stitch it
• 2.25mm (US 1) circular to 1 stitch before next M, m1L
Taking care not to twist cast on was wrapped around; K to 1
needles, 80cm (32in) (making a P stitch), P1, SM, P1,
edge place BRM marker and stitch before next M, m1R, K1,
long m1R (making a purl stitch), P to
work in rounds. SM, K1, m1L; K to last st, m1R,
• 3.25mm (US 3) circular SRM2 and remove it, pick up
needles, 80cm (32in) the wrapped loop and P tog K1.
long with the stitch it was wrapped Current stitch distribution:
RIBBING
• 3.25mm (US 3) set of 5 around; P6, w&t, reposition BRM, 33[37 : 41]sts of right
DPNS for the sleeves, or Rnds 1-14: *K2, P2; rep from *
SRM2. sleeve, M1, 62[66 : 70]sts of
circular needles, 80cm to end.
(32in) long for magic Row 5 (RS): as Row 3. front, M2, 33[37 : 41]sts of left
loop method if preferred. Rnd 15: Remove BRM, K1, sleeve, M3, 64[68 : 72]sts of
reposition BRM marker; Row 6 (WS): as Row 4.
• Stitch holders or waste back. Total number of stitches:
yarn K28[32: 36], PM1 - right sleeve; Beg knitting in the round again. 192[208 : 224].
• 6 x Stitch markers K60[4 : 68], PM2 - front; Rnd 7 (RS): K to BRM; SM, K1,
• Yarn needle K28[32 : 36], PM3 - left sleeve; m1L, K to SRM1 and remove
• In this project we have
K56[60: 64] to end - back. it, pick up the wrapped loop
used Debbie Bliss and K tog with the stitch it was Next rnd: Knit.
Baby Cashmerino,
125m (137yds) per SH
Size S M L
50g ball; 55% merino, Switch to 3.25mm needles.
33% microfiber, 12%
Prepare several stitch markers. To fit bust 76-8176-81 86-9286-9286-92 97-102cm97-102cm
cashmere. You will need
to use sport weight/5ply The next 6 rows are worked
yarn in your chosen using short row shaping (see 30-3230-32 34-3634-36 38-40in38-40in
colour(s) as follows:
ppXX for tutorial on short row
Colour: Light Pink; Bust 82.582.5 9292 102cm102cm
500[500 : 550] shaping) with only a part a row
g/1225[1225 : 1375]m being worked. This makes the 32½321⁄2 3636 40 in40 in
back neck of the sweater a bit
MEASUREMENTS Waist 70707070 78.578.5 88.5cm88.5cm
higher for more comfortable
See boxout
fit. Raglan increases in these
TENSION rows are made on WS. 27½27 1⁄2 3131 34¾in343⁄4in
23 stitches and 34 rnds
=10cm (4in) over stocking Row 1 (RS): K1, m1L, K1, w&t, Hip 84.584.5 93.593.5 103.5cm103.5cm
stitch, blocked place SRM1.
33¼33 1⁄4 36¾36 3⁄4 40¾in403/4403⁄4in
Row 2 (WS): Place SRM1, P4,
BRM: Beginning of round m1R (making a P stitch), slip Length back 5656 59.559.5 64 cm64 cm
marker BRM, P to 1 stitch before next
M, m1L (making a P stitch), P1, 2222 23½23 1⁄2 25¼in251/4in251⁄4in
M#: Marker
SM, P1, m1R (making a P stitch),
SRM#: Short row marker Sleeve seam 4747 49.549.5 51 cm51 cm
P1, w&t, place SRM2.
Row 3 (RS): K to BRM; SM, K1, 18 ½18 1⁄2 19 ½19 1⁄2 20 in20 in
m1L, K to SRM1 and remove
it, pick up the wrapped loop Sleeve width 2828 31.531.5 35.5cm35.5cm
and K tog with the stitch it was
111111 12½12 1⁄2 14 in14 in

Simple Steps to knitting 127

Next rnd (inc): K1, (m1L, K to 1 63[73 : 81]sts for each sleeve; twice, K to end.
stitch before next M, m1R, K1, 190[212 : 230]sts for body. K 4 rows. Transfer 63 (73, 81)sts to
SM, K1) 3 times, m1L, K to last
Rep these 5 rows a further 6[7 3.25mm 4 DPNs (or circular
st, m1R, K1.
BODY : 6]times, then work one more needle if using magic loop
Repeat these two rows a inc rnd. 194 [16 : 234]sts technique).
further 14 (17, 19) times. Work straight for 12[14 : 20]
rnds. Work straight for 18[20 : 22] Rejoin yarn and pick up and
Next row: Knit. rows or until 5cm (2in) from K4[5 : 6]sts under arm (Note
Current stitch distribution: length desired. - these are the 2[3 : 4]sts that
BRM, 63[73 : 81]sts of right S were cast on for the body plus
sleeve, M1, 92[102 : 110]sts of This can be adjusted for 1st on either side to avoid the
front, M2, 63[73 : 81]sts of left RIBBING holes). 67[78 : 87]sts
more a comfortable fit. You
sleeve, M3, 94[104 : 112]sts - can add/subtract an equal Switch to 2.25mm needles. Distribute sts evenly on the
back. Total number of stitches: number of dec and inc rounds Size M only: needles and place BRM.
312[ 352 : 384] to make the waist more/less Rnd 1: Knit. 216 sts Rnd 1 (dec): K1[2 : 2], k2tog, K
emphasized. to last 3[3 : 4]sts, ssk, K1[1: 2].
Next Rnd: K24[27 : 29], PM, Sizes S & L only: 65[76 : 85]sts
K47[52 : 57], PM, K45[51 : 55], Rnd 2: Knit
Prepare 2 stitch holders or 2 Rnd 1: M1L, K97[117], m1R,
PM, K53[58 : 63], PM, K21[24 :
pieces of waste yarn, each k97[117] to end. 196[236]sts. Cont straight until sleeves
26] to BRM.
approx 40cm (16in) long. reach approx 42[44.5 : 45.5]
Next rnd (dec): (K to next M, cm (16½[17½ : 18]in), or 5cm
Remove BRM, slip first 63[73 : All sizes:
SM, ssk, K to 2sts before next (2in) shorter than the desired
81]sts onto holder/waste yarn Rnds 2-19: *K2, P2; rep from
M, k2tog, SM) twice, K to end. length from the underarm. The
(for right sleeve), remove M1, * to end.
cast on 1[1 : 2]sts, reposition K 4 rows. sleeves shown in photo are
Cast off: K2, slip these 2 sts 49.5cm (19½in) long including
BRM marker, cast on 1[2 : 2] Rep last 5 rows a further 5[6 :
back to LH needle, k2tog tbl; the cuff.
sts, K92[102 : 110]sts (for front), 5]times, then work one more
*(P1, slip the last st from the
remove M2, slip next 63[73 : dec rnd. 162[180 : 202] sts.
right needle over) twice, (K1,
81]sts onto holder/waste yarn Work straight for 11[13 : 19] slip the last st back on LH RIBBING
(left sleeve), remove M3, cast rows. needle, k2tog tbl) twice; rep Switch to 2.25mm needles.
on 2[3 : 4]sts, K94[104 : 112]sts
Next rnd (inc): (K to next M, from * to end.
(for back). Rnd 1: Knit. 216 sts
SM, m1L, K to next M, m1R, SM) Fasten off.
Current stitch distribution: Size S & M only
Rnd 2: *K1, k2tog 2[3]times,
K1, k2tog 2[3]times, K1, k2tog
1[3]times; rep from * to end.
40[44]sts

Size L only:
Rnd 2: (K1, k2tog 3 times, K1,
k2tog 4 times, K1, k2tog) 3
times, K1, k2tog 3 times, K1,
k2tog 4 times. 48 sts

All sizes:
Rnds 3-20: *K2, P2; rep from
* to end.
Cast off as previously for body.

FINISHING
Weave in ends. Block by
washing gently in lukewarm
water and laying flat to dry.

128 Simple Steps to knitting

Use colour coded stitch
markers - for example,
red for BRM, blue for
M1, 2 & 3, and green for
SRM1 & 2

Simple Steps to knitting 129

 To ensure cuffs are not too
tight, use the larger needle
to cast on and cast off
(remembering to switch to the
smaller needle as soon as
you have cast on).

130 Simple Steps to knitting

FAIRY TALE LEGWARMERS
These legwarmers make ideal companions both for long walks in the woods and
for warm evenings in a cosy nook with a book and cup of hot chocolate
Pattern FINISHING Secure a pompoms to each
DIFFICULTY end of the braid, then sew
ERS E Weave in ends.
the middle of the braid to the
+++++ With col 1, cast on 80 sts Wash the legwarmers gently upper part of a legwarmer (at
WHAT YOU NEED loosely. Taking care not to in luke-warm water and the border of the ribbing and
• 4 mm (US 6) set of 5 twist cast on edge, arrange block them. the fair isle).
DPNs (or circular needle
sts evenly over 4 DPNs, place
and magic loop Make a bow and pull it tight.
technique if preferred) maker and work in rounds.
Make 2 pompoms approx Secure the bow with another
• Yarn needle 3.5cm (1¼in) in diameter. Take stitch or two at its middle.
• Stitch markers FF 3 lengths of yarn approx 50cm Repeat for the second
• Pompom maker (20in) long and twist to make legwarmer.
(optional) Rnd 1: *K1, P1; rep from * to
a braid.
• In this project we have
end.
used Rowan Pure Wool Rnd 1 forms 1x1 rib. Work a
Worsted, 200m (218yds) further 11 rnds in 1x1 rib (Work
per 100g ball; 100%
a few more rnds if you prefer a
superwash wool. You will
need to use aran weight deeper cuff.
yarn in your chosen
colours as follows:
Colour 1: dark red; 1 ball R
Colour 2: cream; 1 ball
Rnds 1-17: K40 sts of the chart
MEASUREMENTS (right) twice.
18cm (7in) wide x 13cm
Rnd 18 (dec): (K8 as per chart,
(5in) deep
k2tog) 8 times. 72 sts
TENSION
Rnds 19-44: K36 sts of
One size to fit calf up to
chart twice.
15in with negative ease
Circumference around leg
Rnd 45 (dec): (K7 as per chart,
measures 28cm (11in) k2tog) 8 times. 64 sts
Circumference around Rnds 46-65: K32 sts of
ankle measures 20cm (8in) chart twice.
28cm (11in) long, laid flat

O
Work in 1x1 rib for 12 rnds.
Work a few more rnds if you
prefer a deeper cuff.
Cast off loosely in rib.

KSENIA NAIDYON
Ksenia designs cosy knitwear and home decor that
are a pleasure both to knit and to use. Her patterns
feature modern color palettes, interesting textures,
and comfortable fit. www.lifeiscozy.com

Simple Steps to knitting 131

132 Simple Steps to knitting
STRANDED CHRISTMAS STOCKING
This is a festive stocking that pairs traditional and contemporary stranded
motifs perfect for handing on the fireplace
36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
47 47
Pattern 46
45
46
45
44 44
43 43
42 42
Using col 2, and 4mm circular 41
40
41
40
needles, cast on 72 sts, place 39 39
38 38
• 4mm, set of 2 x 40cm marker, and join for knitting in 37 37
(16in) Circular Needles – 36 36
the round, taking care not to 35 35
or size needed to obtain 34 34
gauge. A second circular twist the stitches. 33 33
32 32
needle is used for toe 31 31
decreases 30 30
29 29
• Stitch marker 28 28
27 27
• Yarn Needle Rnd 1: *K2, P2; rep from * to 26
25
26
25
• In this project we have end. 24 24
23 23
used Knit Picks Wool of Rep Row 1 another 9 times, 22 22
21 21
the Andes, (50g/100m).
You will need to use slipping the marker as you 20
19
20
19
worsted weight yarn, in come to it for the remainder 18
17
18
17
your chosen colours. You of the stocking. 16 16
15 15
will need approximately 14 14
252m in total. Next Round: Knit. 13 13
12 12
Colour 1: White; 2 balls 11 11
Colour 2: Sapphire 10 10
9 9
Heather; 1 ball 8 8
7 7
E S RE EN S Attach col 1 and knit according 6 6
5 5
Approximately 50.75cm to the Stranded Leg Chart (left) 4 4
3 3
(20in) long (cuff to toe) and for Rounds 1-47. 2 2
1 1
approximately 33cm (13in) Note: the chart shows half of 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
in circumference.
the total number of stitches – weaving in later. that stitch and then back
ENSION each row of the chart is knitted
Next, using only col 1, knit around to the front of the
Work 22 sts and ?? rows in twice to complete 1 full round
5 rounds. work (similar to making a yarn
stocking stitch to measure of the stocking. Each square of
10x10cm/4x4in using
over) so you can begin to purl;
the chart represents one stitch this gives the slipped stitch 2
4mm (US 6) needles, or
to be knitted in the colour HEEL ‘legs’. Purl to the marker, slip
size required to obtain
indicated. marker, P18, turn.
correct tension. The heel for this stocking
uses German Short Rows as Row 2: Bring the yarn to the
we have detailed here. For front of the work and slip the
Break off col 2, leaving other short row methods first stitch as if to purl. ‘Wrap’
approximately 12.5cm (5in) for check out page 49. the slipped stitch by bringing
HE the working yarn up and
E around to the back of the

ERICA LUEDER
needle. Knit to marker, slip
Set-up row: K18, turn.
marker, K17, turn.
Row 1: Bring the yarn to the
Erica lives in Iowa with her family and works as Row 3: Bring the yarn to the
front of the work. To ‘wrap’
a nurse. She spends almost all of her free time front of the work and slip the
the first stitch, slip the first
knitting, making things with yarn/fibre, and creating new first stitch as if to purl. ‘Wrap’
stitch purl-wise and bring the
patterns. www.hanlone79.etsy.com the slipped stitch by bringing
yarn up and to the back of
the working the yarn up and to

Simple Steps to knitting 133

 In this pattern, one colour will
show more than the other. Use
both hands when stranding
yarn and hold the dominant
colour in your left hand and
the background colour
in your right.

the back of that stitch and then marker, K16, turn. Continue to knit in this fashion, ‘wrapped’ sts on the left side
back around to the front of the adding one ‘wrapped’ stitch to of the heel, 6 unwrapped
Row 5: Bring the yarn to the
work. Purl to the marker, slip either side until you finish Row stitches, the marker, 7
front of the work and slip the
marker, P17, turn. 23 of the heel. At this point, unwrapped stitches, and 11
first stitch as if to purl. ‘Wrap’
Row 4: Bring the yarn to the the RS of the work should be ‘wrapped’ stitches on the right
the slipped stitch by bringing
front of the work and slip the facing you and you should be side of the heel.
the working the yarn up and to
first stitch as if to purl. ‘Wrap’ the back of that stitch and then ready to wrap the last stitch
the slipped stitch by bringing back around to the front of the on the right side of the heel
the working yarn up and work. Purl to the marker, slip flap. Looking at your heel left
Note: the ‘wrapped’ sts will
around to the back of the marker, P16, turn. to right with the RS facing
have what appears to be 2
needle. Knit to marker, slip you, you will see there are 12

134 Simple Steps to knitting

 Stranded Christmas stocking

36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
5

legs instead of 1. For the back around to the front of the knit to marker. K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog,
remainder of the heel section work. Purl to the marker, slip Note: For the remainder K1.
only: when the pattern says marker, P7, P2tog, P2tog, turn. of the sock, K2tog (and Rnd 1: Decrease. (34 sts per
to ‘k2tog’, knit both legs of Repeat Rows 2-3 until all P2tog) means to knit 2 needle).
the ‘wrapped’ stitch together. stitches of heel have been individual stitches together, as Rnd 2: Knit.
The same follows for WS rows worked. standard decreases
– when the pattern says to Rnd 3: Decrease. (32 sts per
Row 4: Bring the yarn to the Row 2: K17, K2tog (to remove needle).
‘p2tog’, purl both legs of the
front of the work and slip the extra stitch), knit to 19 sts
‘wrapped’ stitch together. Do Rnd 4: Knit.
first stitch as if to purl. ‘Wrap’ before marker, K2tog (to
not knit (or purl) 2 separate Rnd 5: Decrease. (30 sts per
the slipped stitch by bringing remove extra stitch), knit
stitches together. needle).
the working yarn up and to marker.
Set up row: We are ‘wrapping’ around to the back of the Rnd 6: Knit.
the 12th stitch on the right side needle. Knit to marker, slip Rnd 7: Decrease.(28 sts per
of the heel and knitting the first marker, K8, K2tog, K2tog, turn. E
needle).
‘wrapped stitch’ from Part 1 of Continue to knit using only col
Row 5: Bring the yarn to the Rnd 8: Knit.
the heel section – knit this row 1 and knit 13 rows.
front of the work and slip the
as follows: Rnd 9: Decrease.(26 sts per
first stitch as if to purl. ‘Wrap’ Attach col 2 and knit according
Bring the yarn to the front of needle).
the slipped stitch by bringing to the following chart for a
the work and slip the first stitch the working the yarn up and to total of 1 pattern repeat ending Rnd 10: Knit.
as if to purl. ‘Wrap’ the slipped the back of that stitch and then with Row 5 of the chart. Rnd 11: Decrease.(24 sts per
stitch by bringing the working back around to the front of needle).
yarn up and around to the the work. P to the marker, slip
G Rnd 12: Knit.
back of the needle. Knit to marker, P8, P2tog, P2tog, turn.
marker, slip marker, K6, K2tog, Rnd 13: Decrease.(22 sts per
Continue to knit in this fashion, needle).
K2tog, turn. Next, knit 1 row using col 1.
knitting 2 ‘wrapped’ stitches
Row 1: Bring the yarn to the Break col 1, leaving Rnd 14: Knit.
and adding one ‘wrapped’
front of the work and slip the stitch to either side of the heel approximately 12.5cm (5in) for Rnd 15: Decrease.(20 sts per
first stitch as if to purl. ‘Wrap’ until you have 1 wrapped stitch weaving in at the end and knit needle).
the slipped stitch by bringing on the left side of the heel (if the next row using only col 2 Rnd 16: Knit.
the working the yarn up and to you’re looking at the RS) and as follows:
Rnd 17: Decrease.(18 sts per
the back of that stitch and then you are getting ready to ‘wrap’ Knit 54 sts, knit the next 36 needle).
back around to the front of the the final stitch on the right side sts onto the second circular
work. Purl to the marker, slip of the heel Rnd 18: Decrease.(16 sts per
needle, removing the stitch
marker, P6, P2tog, P2tog, turn. needle).
Finish the heel portion of the marker as you come to it,
Row 2: Bring the yarn to the stocking by knitting the next because the start of the round Rnd 19: Decrease.(14 sts per
front of the work and slip the two rows as follows: will move. needle).
first stitch as if to purl. ‘Wrap’ Rnd 20: Decrease.(12 sts per
Row 1: Bring the yarn to the At this point there are 36 sts
the slipped stitch by bringing needle).
front of the work and slip the on both circular needles and
the working yarn up and
first stitch as if to purl. ‘Wrap’ the beginning of the round is
around to the back of the
the slipped stitch by bringing now at the side of the work. FINISHING
needle. Knit to marker, slip
the working yarn up and Continue to knit the toe, using Cut yarn leaving 50cm (20in)
marker, K7, K2tog, K2tog, turn.
around to the back of the only col 2. tail and weave through
Row 3: Bring the yarn to the needle. Knit to marker, slip remaining sts using the
front of the work and slip the marker, K17, K2tog, M1 (to Kitchener technique.
first stitch as if to purl. ‘Wrap’ close the gap), knit around
the slipped stitch by bringing Weave in all ends. Wash and
until you reach the gap just Decrease rounds are knit on
the working the yarn up and to block as desired.
before the last ‘wrapped stitch’, each needle as follows:
the back of that stitch and then M1 (to close the gap), K2tog,

Simple Steps to knitting 135

 You can change the order
of the cables, or chose
to only do one type of
cabling to make your own
individual cushions or a
mismatched set.

136 Simple Steps to knitting

CABLE & BOBBLE CUSHION COVER
Creating texture with cable knitting is a great way to turn your old cushion pads
into modern and chic accessories. Use natural colours for a rustic effect

Pattern the end. Rep Row 2.

Rows 1-2 form Moss stitch. Rep Row 1.
Rows 3-5: Repeat Rows 1-2 Cast off.
once more, then rep Row 1.
Row 1: (RS): P2, T5R, P2.
• 5mm needles Work in st-st until back FINISHING
Row 2: K2, P2, K1, P2, K2.
• 5mm cable needle measures 30cm from cast on Block and press edges of
• Yarn Needle Row 3: P1, T3B, P1, T3F, P1. edge, ending after a knit row. the front, and the back.
• 6 x medium sized Row 4: K1, P2, K3, P2, K1. Next row (foldline): Knit to Sew side seams. Sew on
buttons Row 5: T3B, P3, T3F. buttons to correspond with
mark the foldline, and inc 5 sts
• In this project we have evenly across the row. (85 sts). the buttonholes.
used Debbie Bliss Sita, Row 6: P2, K5, P2.
50g/115m (45% silk, 40% Row 7: K2, P2, MB, P2, K2.
cotton, 15% polyamide).
You will need to use Row 8: As Row 6.
Aran weight yarn in your Row 1 (RS): P8, *work Row 1 of Twist 3 front (T3F): slip
Row 9: T3F, P3, T3B.
chosen colours. next 2 sts onto a cable
Row 10: As Row 4. Cable 1 pattern, P6, work Row
Colour 1: Buttermilk needle and hold at front of
1 of Cable 2 pattern, P6; rep
(shade 4); 4 x balls Row 11: P1, T3F, P1, T3B, P1. work, purl next st from left
from * once more, work Row 1 needle, then knit sts from
MEASUREMENTS Row 12: As Row 2. of Cable 1 pattern, P8. cable needle.
To fit 40x40cm/16x16in
These 12 rows form cable. Row 2: K8, *work Row 2 of Twist 3 back (T3B): slip next
cushion pad.
Cable 1 pattern, K6, work Row st onto a cable needle and
TENSION 2 of Cable 2 pattern, P6; rep hold at back of work, knit
Work 20 sts and 18 rows from * once more, work Row next 2 sts from left hand
in stocking stitch to 2 of Cable 1 pattern, K8. needle, then purl st from
measure 10x10cm/4x4in Row 1: T3F, T3B, T3F. cable needle.
using 5mm (US 8) needles,
These 2 rows set the pattern.
Row 2: P2, K2, P4, K1. Twist 5 right (T5R): slip next
or size required to obtain Continue until front measures
3 sts onto cable needle and
correct tension. Row 3: P1, C4B, P2, K2. 40cm (16in).
hold at back of work, knit
Row 4: As Row 2. Next row (foldline): Purl to next 2 sts from left hand
mark the foldline and dec 5 sts needle, then work P1, K2
Row 5; T3B, T3F, T3B.
evenly across the row. (80 sts) from cable needle.

SIAN
Row 6; K1, P4, K2, P2. Cable 4 front (C4F): slip
Work 10cm in st-st.
Row 7; K2, P2, C4F, P1. next 2 sts onto a cable

BROWN
Note: the end of this piece needle and hold at front of
Row 8: As Row 6. should sit at the top of the cast work, knit next 3 sts from
These 8 rows form the pattern. on edge of the back, if it does left hand needle, then knit
After doing a
not, adjust piece so that it does. sts from cable needle.
Fashion/Textiles
Cable 4 back (C4B): slip
BA Sian worked supplying
next 2 sts onto a cable
to high street retailers on Make in one piece, starting at B D needle and hold at back of
machine knits. She became back. Row 1: *K1, P1; rep from * to work, knit next 3 sts from
interested in handknits the end. left hand needle, then knit
Using 5mm needles, cast on
and have designed sts from cable needle.
80 sts. Row 2: *P1, K1; rep from * to
these since, working for Make bobble (MB): knit into
Row 1: *K1, P1; rep from * to the end.
magazines, publishers and front, back and front of next
yarn companies. the end. Buttonhole row: K6, *K2tog, st, turn, K3, turn, sl 1, K2tog,
www.sianbrown.co.uk Row 2: *P1, K1; rep from * to yrn, K11; rep from * a further 4 psso.
times, K2tog, yrn, K7.

Simple Steps to knitting 137

 Use different colour
yarns for the stripes
and fish to add
more pizazz to your
finished blanket.

138 Simple Steps to knitting

FISH & STRIPES COT BLANKET
Combine techniques to create this fun baby blanket perfect for the children’s cot

Pattern
DIFFICULTY E
+++++
20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 row 2 from square 1; rep from
WHAT YOU NEED
28 * to last 4 sts, K4 col 2.
• 4mm (US 6) needle
27
• Yarn Needle Continue working squares as
26
• Yarn bobbins (for intarsia) set until 28 rows of squares
25
• In this project we have have been worked, working K4
24
used Rooster Almerino 23
col 2 at the beginning and end
DK, 113m (124yds) per of each row.
22
50g ball; 50% Baby
Alpaca, 50% Merino. You 21 Row 29 (RS): K4 col 2, *K20
will need to use DK yarn, 20 sts of row 1 from square 2, K20
in your chosen colour(s) 19 sts of row 1 from square 1; rep
as follows: 18 from * to last 4 sts, K4 col 2. (6
Colour 1: Cornish; 3 balls
17 squares worked)
Colour 2: Beach;
16
50g/113m Row 30: K4 col 2, *P20 sts of
15
Colour 3: Gooseberry; row 2 from square 1, P20 sts of
14
100g/226m row 2 from square 2; rep from
13
MEASUREMENTS 12
* to last 4 sts, K4 col 2.
Measures 61cm (24in) wide 11 Continue working squares
and 74cm (29in) long 10 until 28 rows of squares have
TENSION 9 been worked, working K4 col
21 stitches and 28 rows = 8 2 at the beginning and end of
10cm (4in) over stocking 7 each row.
stitch using 4mm 6
These 56 rows set squares
needles, or size required to 5
sequence. Continue working
obtain tension. 4
until 7 strips of squares have
3
been worked.
2
1 Change to col 2.

SIAN K 6 rows.
Cast off.

BROWN
E
Worked in stocking stitch, the have been worked.
first row of these squares will FINISHING
After doing a
start with a RS row. There are
Fashion/Textiles Sew in ends.
two rows of each colour over
BA Sian worked supplying With col 2, cast on 128 sts. Embroider eyes onto fish with
20 sts and 28 rows.
to high street retailers on col 1 using French knots.
First row square; K 6 rows.
machine knits. She became
Row 1 (RS): K4 col 2, *K20 sts Block and press according to
interested in handknits Row 1 (RS): K20 with col 3.
of row 1 from square 1, K20 yarn band instructions.
and have designed Row 2: P20 with col 3.
these since, working for sts of row 1 from square 2; rep
Row 3: K20 with col 1. from * to last 4 sts, K4 col 2. (6
magazines, publishers and
yarn companies. Row 4: P20 with col 1. squares worked)
www.sianbrown.co.uk Repeat these 4 rows a further Row 2: K4 col 2, *P20 sts of
6 times, until 28 rows in total row 2 from square 2, P20 sts of

Simple Steps to knitting 139

 Elongated Rib Stitch Pattern
Rounds 1-6: *P2, K2*; rep from *
to end of round.
Rounds 7-12: *K2, P2*; rep from
* to end of round.

Garter Stitch Edged Eye of

Partridge Heel
Round 1: K3, purl to end.
Round 2: P3, *K1, sl 1; rep from *
to last 3 sts, K3.
Round 3: K3, purl to end.
Round 4: P3, *sl 1, K1; rep from *
to last 3 sts, K3.

140 Simple Steps to knitting

 Weasley homestead socks

WEASLEY HOMESTEAD SOCKS

Ribbed for a comfy fit, this pair of socks features 3 sizes
and is a step beyond the basic vanilla sock.
Pattern flap, pick up and knit 1 extra
DIFFICULTY stitch between the heel flap
With WS facing you, sl 1,
and the instep (to close the
+++++ Using col 1, cast on 56(64, 72) P14(16, 18), P2tog, P1, turn.
gap), place marker, knit across
Approx 16-20 hours per Next row: Sl 1, K3, ssk, K1, turn.
sts, divide evenly over 2 circular half of the instep sts - 14(16, 18)
pair
needles with 28(32, 36) sts Next row: Sl 1, P4, P2tog, P1, sts in pattern. Switch to the
WHAT YOU NEED each needle. Join for knitting turn. other needle (now referred to
• 2.5mm (US 1 or US 2, set
in the round. as Needle 2).
of 2 Circular Needles, or Next row: Sl 1, K5, ssk, K1, turn.
size needed to obtain Round 1: *K2, P2; rep from * to Using Needle 2: continue
Next row: Sl 1, P6, P2tog, P1,
gauge. end of round. across second half of the
turn.
• Stitch marker Knit another 19 rounds of instep sts - 14(16, 18) sts in
• Yarn Needles Next row: Sl 1, K7, ssk, K1, turn.
ribbing: pattern, place marker, pick up
• In this project we have Continue in this manner until and knit 1 extra st between
used Dreams in Fiber all sts are have been knit – instep and heel flap (to close
Merino/Nylon Superwash there should be 16(18, 20) heel
Sock (4oz/460 yds. You
gap), pick up and knit 16(18, 18)
Begin Elongated Rib Stitch sts on the needle at this point. heel flap sts, continue to knit
will need to use any
fingering weight yarn in Pattern for a total of 4.5 Pick up the heel flap sts. across half of the heel sts - 8(9,
your chosen colours. You pattern repeats (or until you 10) sts.
will need approximately
Using the needle holding the
have reached your desired heel sts (now referred to as At this point there should be
350-450 yds or 1 skein of
Merino/Nylon Superwash length) ending with Row 6 of Needle 1): pick up and knit 39(44, 47) sts on each needle.
Sock yarn the pattern. 16(18, 18) sts along the heel
Colour 1: Rusty Nail
MEASUREMENTS
Child L(Adult S, Adult L)
Note: the heel flap begins with
TENSION a WS row
Work 36 sts and ?? rows
The heel flap is worked using
in ?? pattern to measure
10x10cm/4x4in using Needle 2 (Needle 1 is holding
2.5mm (US 1 or US 2) the instep sts). Knit the Garter-
needles, or size required to Stitch Edged Eye of Partridge
obtain correct tension. Heel Pattern (see special
stitches) for a total of 8 (9, 9)
pattern repeats - 32(36, 36)
total rows, ending with Round
4 of the pattern. This leaves
16(18, 18) edge sts for picking
up, after the heel is turned.

ERICA LUEDER
Erica lives in Iowa with her family and works as a nurse.
She spends almost all of her free time knitting, making
things with yarn/fibre, and creating new patterns.
www.hanlone79.etsy.com

Simple Steps to knitting 141

 Stitch Leg Pattern, o n Needle For Child size only:
Set up round: 2: st st) until you have reached
Row 13: Decrease. (16 sts per
Needle 1: Knit across the heel your desired length of foot
needle).
and heel flap sts until you reach (excluding toe) ending with
Round 6 or 12 of the Elongated Row 14: Decrease. (14 sts per
2 sts before the marker, ssk, slip
Rib Stitch Leg Pattern. needle).
marker, continue to knit across
the instep sts in pattern. Note Row 15: Decrease. (12 sts per
needle).
Needle 2: Knit across the For Child size: Leave
instep sts in pattern, slip marker, approximately 3.25cm (1¼in)
K2tog, K to end. for the toe For Small Adult size only:
Now we’re ready to get going For Small Adult size: Leave Round 13: Knit.
on the gusset. approximately 3.75cm (1½in) Round 14: Decrease. (20 sts
Round 1: in for the toe. per needle).
Needle 1: K to 3 sts before For Large Adult size: Leave Round 15: Knit.
marker, K2tog, K1, slip marker, approximately 5cm (2in) for
Round 16: Decrease. (18 sts
knit instep sts in pattern. the toe.
per needle).
Needle 2: Knit across instep sts Round 17: Decrease. (16 sts
in pattern, slip marker, K1, ssk, Decrease rounds are worked per needle).
Knit to end. on each needle as follows: Round 18: Decrease. (14 sts
Round 2: *K1, ssk, Knit to the last 3 sts, per needle).
Needle 1: Knit to marker, slip K2tog, K1* Round 19: Decrease. (12 sts
marker, continue across instep per needle).
sts in pattern
For all sizes: For Large Adult size only
Needle 2: Knit across instep
Round 1: Decrease. (26(30, 34) Round 13: Knit.
sts in pattern, slip marker, Knit
sts per needle). Round 14: Decrease. (24 sts
to end.
Rounds 2 & 3: Knit. per needle).
Repeat the last 2 rounds until
there are 28(32, 36) sts left on Round 4: Decrease. (24(28, 32) Round 15: Knit.
each needle - 19(21, 19) gusset sts per needle). Round 16: Decrease. (22 sts
rows in total, not including the Rounds 5 & 6: Knit. per needle).
set-up row. Round 7: Decreas. (22(26, 30) Round 17: Knit.
Re-distribute the stitches so sts per needle). Round 18: Decrease. (20 sts
Needle 1 carries the instep Rounds 8 & 9: Knit. per needle).
stitches and Needle 2 carries
Round 10: Decrease. (20(24, Round 19: Knit.
the sole sts.
28) sts per needle). Round 20: Decrease. (18 sts
Round 11: Knit. per needle).
Round 12: Decrease. (18(22, Round 21: Decrease. (16 sts
Continue knitting in pattern (on 26) sts per needle). per needle).
Needle 1: the Elongated Rib Round 22: Decrease. (14 sts
per needle).
Round 23: Decrease. (12 sts
per needle).

FINISHING
Cut yarn leaving a 25cm
(10in) tail and weave through
remaining sts using the
Kitchener technique. Weave in
all ends.

142 Simple Steps to knitting

 This pattern features 3 sizes so,
to make things easier as you
knit, reading through the pattern
beforehand and circling or
highlighting the appropriate
numbers/instructions for
your chosen size.

Simple Steps to knitting 143

REFERENCE
146 Yarn labels
147 Choosing yarn colours
148 Knitting Abbreviations
149 Stitch chart symbols
150 stitch pattern gallery
155 glossary 149
16

15
155
14

13

12

11

10

9 147
8

2
1
(RS)

144 Simple Steps to knitting

146 DYE
A LOT NO 150
313
SHADE/
COLOUR 50G
Nett at standard
520 condition in
accordance with BS984

30C

3 4.5mm (UK 7/US7)

Simple Steps to knitting 145

YARN LABELS
Everything you need to know about the yarn you’re using can be found
on the label, from weight and thickness to washing instructions

Symbols
W
hen you buy yarn, it will almost always come
with a label around it. This label, which is
sometimes also called a ball band, tells you Most yarn manufacturers will use symbols to indicate the
everything you need to know about the yarn, from what properties of yarn and give further details about it. These
size needles to use with it to washing and care instructions. will often include care instructions and tension (gauge). It
If you think your project will need to use more than one will also include the dye lot. When using more than one
ball of yarn, don’t throw this label away, as it will help ball of yarn in the same colour in a single project, ensure
you ensure you get the exact matching yarn to continue that all balls of yarn have the same dye lot. This way, there
working with. will be no variation in colour when you switch yarns.

22sts
DYE
28
3 10cm

10cm
rows LOT NO
313 30C
Tension (gauge) over a
Yarn weight 10cm (4in) test square Dye lot number Hand-wash cold Do not dry clean

SHADE/
COLOUR
50G
Nett at standard
condition in
4.5mm (UK 7/US7) 520 accordance with BS984

Weight and length

40C

Required needle size Shade/colour number of yarn in ball Hand-wash warm Do not tumble dry

100%
WOOL
Fibre content Do not bleach Do not iron

30C A
If you’re making a garment with Dry-cleanable in
more than one ball of wool in Machine-wash cold any solvent Iron on a low heat
the same colour, check that all
the balls have the same dye lot
(DL), which can be found on
30C
the label. This will ensure
there won’t be any
P
colour variation.
Machine-wash cold, Dry-cleanable in Iron on a medium
gentle cycle certain solvents heat

146 Simple Steps to knitting

CHOOSING YARN COLOURS
You can find yarn in almost any colour you can think of,
but how do you choose which one to use?

Y
ou’ve finally picked the garment you want to make darker colours difficult to work with as you won’t be able to
and a pattern that you like, so the next step is spot mistakes as easily or see what stitch you just worked.
choosing your yarn. Patterns will suggest yarn weight When you’re using more than one colour to create
and maybe even fibre, but rarely colour. This decision is up to a pattern, it is also important to choose colours that
you. When choosing a yarn colour for your project, you may complement each other as well as stand out to make the
want to think about more than just what it will look like. For pattern distinctive. A good place to start for choosing colours
example, as a knitting beginner, you may find black and other is to look at a colour wheel.

Using a colour wheel Black and white

This is used to see how colours These are not included on the
work together. Each segment colour wheel as they are not
shows the hue, shade, tone classified as colours. When using
and tint (the colour mixed with black yarn to knit with, remember
white) of a colour. Blue, red and that your work will be more difficult
yellow are primary colours; green, to see and any complex details like
orange and purple are secondary cabling will not show up as well in
colours; and all the others are the finished piece. When using white
tertiary colours. Colours that are yarn, although every stitch will be
side-by-side harmonise with each clear to see, remember that this is
other and those that are opposite not the most practical colour for
on the wheel complement each wearable garments as any stains or
other, and provide bold contrast. dirt will easily show up.

Warm shades Cool shades

Consisting of mainly red and yellow At the cool end are blue, green
tones, the colours at the warm end and violet. Generally darker in tone
of the spectrum can be used to than warm colours, their impact is
bring depth to a garment. Browns, lessened when mixed with these. If
oranges and purple are also a part of you need to balance a warm mixture
this group. A blend of warm shades in a project, you will need more cool
can create a flattering garment. colours than warm ones to do so.

Pastels Brights
These very pale colours are Vivid and fluorescent shades can
extremely popular for babies’ and really liven up a piece, especially one
small children. You will find a high that so far consists of muted shades.
proportion of soft yarns for babies These colours make eye-catching
are available in these colours. Pastels accessories and intarsia motifs, and
also feature strongly in spring/ also look great when used to add a
summer knitting patterns for adults. bright edging or set of buttons.

Simple Steps to knitting 147

KNITTING ABBREVIATIONS
Here is a list of the most frequently used knitting abbreviations.
Any special abbreviation will be explained within a pattern
alt M1 (or M1k) ssk
Alternate make one stitch (see page Slip slip knit (see page 51)
39)
beg S
mm Slip stitch
Begin(ning)
millimetre(s)
s2 K1 p2sso
cm Slip 2, knit 1, pass slipped
oz
Centimetre(s) stitches over
ounce(s)
cont st(s)
p
Continu(e)(ing) Stitch(es)
purl
dec st st
p2tog (or dec 1)
Stocking stitch
Decreas(e)(ing) purl next two stitches
together (see page 42) tbl
foll
Through back of loop(s)
Follow(s)(ing) patt
pattern, or work in pattern tog
g Together
Gram(s) pfb (or inc 1)
purl into front and back of WS
g st next stitch Wrong side (of work)
Garter stitch yd
psso
pass slipped stitch over Yard(s)
in
Inch(es) yo (yfwd)
rem
Yarn over
remain(s)(ing)
inc
Increase(e)(ing) wyib
rep
With yarn in back
repeat(ing)
K
wyif
Knit rev st st With yarn in front
reverse stocking stitch
K1 tbl []*
Knit 1 stitch through the RH Repeat instructions between
back of the loop Right hand brackets, or after or
between asterisks, as many
k2tog (or dec 1) RS times as instructed
Right side (of work)
Knit next 2 stitches
together (see page 42) Sk k1 psso (skp)
Slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped
kfb (o inc 1)
stitch over (see page 50)
Knit into front and back of
next stitch (see page 38) s1 k2tog psso (sk2p)
Although it might look
Slip 1, knit 2 stitches
like complicated code
LH together, pass slipped
now, you’ll soon pick it
Left hand stitch over up with a bit
of practice.

148 Simple Steps to knitting

STITCH SYMBOL CHARTS
Sometimes knitting patterns are given as a stitch symbol chart instead of a written
pattern. Don’t panic. These are easy to follow if you know what you’re looking at

Stitch symbols
S
titch symbol charts provide a knitting pattern in much
the same way as a written pattern – each symbol
represents a stitch, and you follow it to make the These are some of the most commonly used stitch symbols.
pattern. Some knitters prefer them to written patterns, as they However, different pattern providers may use different
offer a visual representation of what a pattern should look like symbols, so always follow the explanations given in a pattern.
when it’s knitted up and can be easier to memorise. When
you come across a charted pattern, the amount of stitches
= k on RS rows, p on WS rows
to cast (bind) on will normally be provided, however, if it is
not, you can easily work it out from the number of stitches in
the pattern ‘repeat’. Cast (bind) on a multiple of this number
= p on RS rows, k on WS rows
and any extras for edge stitches outside the repeat and you’re
ready to go.
In a stitch symbol chart, each square represents a stitch and = yo
each horizontal line of squares represents a row. After casting
(binding) on, work from the bottom of the chart upwards,
reading odd-numbered rows, which are usually RS rows, from = k2tog
right to left and even-numbered rows from left to right. After Some symbols mean one
thing on an RS row and
knitting any edge stitches, work the stitches inside the repeat
another on a WS row. For
as many times as required. When you have worked all the = ssk
example, a blank square
rows on the chart, start again at the bottom of the chart. often means knit on an

4
RS row and purl on a
16 = sk2p WS row.

15

14 = s2k k1 p2sso
13

01 Cast (bind) on
12

11

10
The number of stitches you cast on must be a multiple of this
repeat plus any edge stitches.
9

02 Right to left
8 Rep = 16 sts

7
Read row 1 and all other odd-numbered rows from right to left.
6

3 03 Left to right
5

2
4
Read row 2 and all other even-numbered rows from left to right.
3

04 Repeat
2
1

1
(RS)
Rep = 6 sts When you have finished the last row of the stitch symbol chart,
begin again at row 1. Repeat the pattern until you reach the
desired length.

Simple Steps to knitting 149

STITCH PATTERN GALLERY
Follow this fantastic guide to the different stitches that are available to you,
and use them in your amazing creations

“Start making your

A
fter learning the basic techniques of knitting, you now have

own designs and

the ability to create a large variety of stitches. These can be
used to start making your own original designs and adapting

adapting patterns to
other patterns to suit your tastes. You may recognise some of the more
common stitches, such as moss (seed) and single rib, but there are
a wide variety that will enable you to create any number of attractive

suit your tastes”

items. There are just a few examples showcased in this chapter, so take
a look through to see which appeal to you most.

If you lose your place while

following a stitch pattern, start by
looking at the tail of your work. If
it is towards the bottom of your
needle, you are about to knit an
odd row (3, 5, 7 etc); if it is
towards the top, you are
about to knit an even
row (4, 6, 8 etc).

150 Simple Steps to knitting

 Stitch pattern gallery

Knit and purl stitch patterns

There are many stitches that you can create using just these two techniques, and most are simple to work and easy to
remember. Although the majority of these will create a pattern that looks the same on both sides, those with a right side
(RS) will have the pictured stitch on the front and a different texture on the back. These simple stitches are ideal for making
scarves and blankets.

Moss (seed) stitch Half moss (seed) stitch

For an even number of sts: Cast (bind) on an odd number of sts
Row 1: *K1, P1, rep from * Row 1(RS): *P1, K1, rep from * to last st, K1
Row 2: *P1, K1, rep from * Row 2: K
Rep rows 1-2 to form pattern Rep rows 1-2 to form pattern

For an odd number of sts:

Row 1: *K1, P1, rep from * to last st, K1
Rep row 1 to form pattern

Double moss (seed) stitch Broken moss (seed) stitch

Cast (bind) on an odd number of sts Cast (bind) on an odd number of sts
Row 1(RS): *K1, P1, rep from *to last st, K1 Row 1(RS): K
Row 2: *P1, K1, rep from * to last st, K1 Row 2: *P1, K1, rep from * to last st, K1
Row 3: As row 2 Rep rows 1-2 to form pattern
Row 4: As row 1
Rep rows 1-4 to form pattern

Simple Steps to knitting 151

Single rib Double rib
For an even number of sts: Cast (bind) on a multiple of 4 sts
Row 1: *K1, P1, rep from * Row 1: *K2, P2, rep from *
Rep row 1 to form pattern Rep row 1 to form pattern

For an odd number of sts:

Row 1: *K1, P1, rep from * to last st, K1
Row 2: *P1, K1, rep from * to last st, P1
Rep rows 1-2 to form pattern

English rib Fisherman’s rib

Cast (bind) on an odd number of sts Cast (bind) on an odd number of sts and knit 1 row
Row 1: s1, *P1, K1, rep from * Row 1 (RS): s1, *K1b, P1, rep from *
Row 2: s1 *K1b, P1, rep from * Row 2: s1, *P1, K1b, rep from * to last 2 sts, P1, K1
Rep rows 1-2 to form pattern Rep rows 1-2 to form pattern

152 Simple Steps to knitting

 Stitch pattern gallery

Garter rib Basketweave stitch

Cast (bind) on a multiple of 8 sts + 4 Cast (bind) on a multiple of 8 sts
Row 1 (RS): K4, *P4, K4, rep from * Rows 1-5: *K4, P4, rep from *
Row 2: Purl. Rows 6-10: *P4, K4, rep from *
Rep rows 1-2 to form pattern Rep rows 1-10 to form pattern

Little check stitch Little ladder stitch

Cast (bind) on a multiple of 10 sts + 5 Cast (bind) on a multiple of 6 sts + 2
Row 1: K5, *P5, K5, rep from * Row 1 (RS): K
Row 2: Purl. Row 2: K2, *P4, K2, rep from *
Rep 1-2 twice more, then row 1 again Row 3: Knit.
Row 8: K5, *P5, K5, rep from * Row 4: P3, *K2, P4, rep from * to last 3 sts, P3
Row 9: Knit. Rep rows 1-4 to form pattern
Rep rows 8-9 twice more, then row 8 again
Rep rows 1-14 to form pattern

Simple Steps to knitting 153

Increasing and decreasing
Using slightly more advanced techniques such as yarn over (yo) and knit/purl two together (k2tog/p2tog), you can create
stitches with even greater detail and texture. These form more intricate designs that look great on their own or when
combined with other stitches in larger pieces.

Basic chevron Herringbone stitch

Cast (bind) on a multiple of 12 sts Cast (bind) on a multiple of 3 sts + 1
Row 1(RS): *k2tog, K3, [inc in next st] twice, K3, s1 K1 psso, Row 1(RS): K1, *yo, s1wyib K2 psso 2 sts, rep from *
rep from * Row 2: P1, *yo, s1wyif P2 psso 2 sts, rep from *
Row 2: Purl. Rep rows 1-2 to form pattern
Rep rows 1-2 to form pattern

Diagonal rib Blackberry stitch

Cast (bind) on a multiple of 2 sts Cast (bind) on a multiple of 4 sts + 2
Row 1: *K1, P1, rep from * Row 1(RS): Purl.
Row 2: s1 P1 psso, *K1, P1, rep from * Row 2: K1, *[K1 P1 K1] into next st, p3tog, rep from * to last
Row 3: *P1, K1, rep from * to last 2 sts, P2 st, K1
Row 4: s1 K1 psso, *P1, K1 rep from * to last 2 sts, P1, [K1 Row 3: Purl.
P1] into next stitch Row 4: K1, *p3tog, [K1 P1 K1] into next st, rep from * to last
Rep rows 1-4 to form pattern st, K1
Rep rows 1-4 to form pattern

154 Simple Steps to knitting

GLOSSARY
All of the key terminology you need to learn to follow patterns and
get to grips with the skills and techniques you need for knitting

As established, as set make cables. Cable needles are often

curved or bent to prevent stitches
decorative element
An instruction in knitting patterns
that means to continue working
from sliding off Ease
Cast (bind) on (CO)
The difference between the garment’s
as previously established after an
measurements and wearer’s
interruption in the texture or shaping. To put the first row of stitches on the measurements. A garment with larger
For example, an established pattern needles. This row is simply called the measurements has positive ease and
might be interrupted to work a cast (bind)-on edge one with smaller measurements has
buttonhole and then continue ‘as set’
Cast (bind) off (BO)
negative ease
Bar increase Secure the final row of stitches Eyelet
See knit front and back (kfb) and remove them from your A single hole in knitted fabric, usually
Blanket stitch knitting needles made with a yarn over increase
A decorative sewing technique
worked along the edge of fabric
Circular knitting Fair Isle
When you knit fabric in a tube by Refers to both the motifs and the
Block working the stitches in a spiral. Unlike
flat knitting, which is worked back
technique derived from the colour
knitting from the Shetland Islands and
A finishing technique in which the and forth Fair Isle, north of Scotland. Generally,
knitted piece is set with steam or
Circular needle
in Fair Isle knitting, two colours are
water. Blocking smooths stitches and
used in each row, with the colour not
straightens edges A needle with a point at each end and being used carried along the wrong
Blocking wire a flexible cable in between. Circulars
can be used in circular or flat knitting
side of the work. Sometimes it can be
used to refer to stranded colourwork
A long, straight wire used for
Decrease
in general
anchoring the edge of knitting during
blocking, most often for lace To decrease the number of stitches in

Cable a row

A texture in knitting that

resembles knitted rope, made by
Dropped stitch
A stitch that has fallen off the needle
crossing stitches and is not secured. A column of

Cable cast (bind) on dropped stitches is called a ladder

Double-pointed needles (DPNs)

A firm cast (bind)-on edge made
by putting the tip of the needle
between the first two stitches on the A knitting needle with a point at each
left needle, working a stitch end, usually used in a set of four or
and placing it on the left needle. five to work in the round

Duplicate stitch
Although called cable, it is not related
to making cables

Cable needle (cn)

Made by running a strand of yarn
along the same path as existing
A short knitting needle with a point knitted stitches. Duplicate stitch can
at each end used to temporarily hold be used on the wrong side to conceal
a small number of stitches while you yarn ends or on the right side as a

Simple Steps to knitting 155

Felt Half-hitch cast (bind) on
the centre of the next stitch of the left
needle
Made from finished knitting by A simple single-strand cast (bind) on.
agitating animal fibre to lock the Stitches are made by twisting the yarn Knit two stitches
strands together into a loop and placing them on a
together (k2tog)
Finishing
needle
Putting the needle through two
At the end of a knitted project, I-cord stitches and knitting together to
decrease by one stitch
when final details are added, such Short for idiot cord, an i-cord is a
as weaving in ends, sewing pieces
together and adding buttons. Can
narrow tube made by knitting every
row on a double-pointed needle Knit three stitches together
also include blocking (DPN) without turning the work (k3tog)
Flat knitting Increase (inc)
Putting the needle through three
stitches and knitting them together to
When you knit fabric as a flat piece To increase the number of stitches in decrease by two stitches
by working the stitches back and a row
forth (unlike circular knitting, which is Knit front and back (kfb)
worked in a spiral) Intarsia Knit first into the front and then

Garter stitch A technique used for working blocks

of colour. The yarn is not carried
into the back of one stitch to
increase by one stitch. Also called a
A reversible, ridged pattern made across the back as in stranded bar increase
of alternating knit and purl rows. In colourwork
flat knitting, garter stitch is made by
knitting every row; in circular knitting, Join Knitted cast (bind) on
A cast (bind)-on edge made by
it is made by alternating knit and purl Either adding a new ball of yarn, working a stitch into the first stitch on
rounds turning a flat row into a tubular round the left-hand needle and placing it
Gauge (tension) or sewing pieces of knitting together back on the left needle
The size of a stitch, so how many
stitches and rows fit in to make a
Knit (k, K) Knitwise (kwise)
Specifically, to make a new stitch by
certain size of knitting, usually ten As if to knit – with the yarn in the back
working with the yarn at the back and
centimetres and the right needle going into the
inserting the right needle from left to
front of the stitch
right under the front loop and through

Lace
Knitted fabric with an arrangement of
holes

Long tail cast (bind) on

A strong cast (bind) on made by using
two strands of yarn: the working yarn
and the tail

Marker, stitch marker

A small ring or other tool placed
on the needle to mark a location
or stitch.

Mattress stitch
A method of sewing knitting together
that creates a barely visible seam

Multiple (mult)
The number of stitches or rows that

156 Simple Steps to knitting

 Glossary

are repeated in a stitch pattern end and a stopper at the other

Round (rnd)
Needle gauge In circular knitting, one horizontal line Stranded
A tool used to determine the size of of stitches A type of colourwork where all the
unmarked needles strands are carried on the wrong side
Row
Pick up and knit
of the work

Swatch
In flat knitting, one horizontal line of
Draw loops through the edge of the stitches
knitting and place them on a needle A square or rectangle of knitting used
Selvedge, selvage
Place marker (pm)
to measure tension (gauge) or test
A decorative or functional edge. For stitch patterns
An instruction to place a stitch marker
Tail
example, a selvedge can be made by
on your needle knitting the first and last stitch of every

Plain knitting
row, making them neater and more The short end of yarn that’s not
visible being used
Knitting without adding texture or
colour, often in garter or stocking Set-in sleeve Tapestry needle
(stockinette) stitch A style of sleeve where the upper See yarn needle

Purl (p, P)
arm and shoulder are curved to fit
around the shoulder and sewn into Through back loop (tbl)
To make a new stitch by working the armhole When making a stitch, put the needle
with the yarn at the front and inserting
Slip slip knit together (ssk)
through the back of the loop instead
the right needle from right to left
through the centre of the next stitch The mirror of k2tog: slip two stitches, Twisted stitch
of the left needle one at a time, knitwise, and knit them A type of stitch that’s worked through

Purlwise (pwise)
together to decrease by one stitch the back loop

As if to purl – with the yarn in the Slip (sl) Weave in

front and the right needle going Transfer the next stitch to be worked To hide and secure loose ends and
through the centre of the stitch from on the left-hand needle to the right- the tail on the finished product
left to right hand needle. Always done purlwise
Weight
Raglan
unless stated

Stitch
When referring to yarn, weight is the
A style of sleeve where the upper arm thickness of the yarn rather than the
and shoulder are diagonally shaped A loop, either on a needle or in the weight of the ball
from the underarm to neck fabric – the basic unit of knitting
Working yarn
Repeat (rep) Stitch holder The yarn that’s coming from the ball
Repeat all steps between indicated A tool used to hold stitches that of yarn and being used to make new
points, usually marked by “rep from * will be worked at a later date. Often stitches
to end”) shaped like a large safety pin
Wrong side (WS)
Reverse stocking (stockinette) Stocking (stockinette) stitch The side of the work that will be
stitch (rev st st) (st st) hidden when finished
Stocking (stockinette) stitch fabric
with the purl side used as the
A smooth pattern made of knit
stitches. In flat knitting, stocking
Yarn needle
A thick, blunt needle with a large eye
right side (stockinette) stitch is made by
that’s used for darning yarn. It’s also
Reversible
alternating knit and purl rows; in
called a tapestry needle
circular knitting, it is made by knitting
A fabric with no right side every round
Yarn over (yo)
Right side (RS) Straight needle A strand of yarn placed over the left-
hand needle to create a new stitch
The side of the work that will be A knitting needle with a point at one
displayed when finished

Simple Steps to knitting 157

 Planning your own
shapes? Knitting graph
paper helps you figure
out how many stitches
you need and which
colours.

158 Simple Steps to knitting

Graph paper

Simple Steps to knitting 159

160 Simple Steps to knitting
Graph paper

Simple Steps to knitting 161

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 Everything you need to know as easy as 1, 2, 3
9001

Get started with knitting

Gather all the tools and materials you need to
Learn the best techniques
Everything you need to know from your first
learn how to knit your first project cast on through to weaving in yarn ends

Add details to your knitwear

Use combination stitches, add buttons
Complete your first projects
Follow all the steps to finish your very first
and finish off your creations with a flourish knitting pattern, from toys to clothes and more