T-t-t-t-t-t Touch Me - Prelude

GR AN N Y 2
Copyright © 2021 Skill level: Intermediate
This pattern or any portion thereof may
not be reproduced or used in any This pattern does not have step by step
manner whatsoever without the express photo tutorials.
written permission of the designer.
This pattern uses US terminology with
For questions relating to permission or metric sizes.
usage email:
Before you begin crocheting, always read
hosteam@hookedonsunshine.co
through the pattern first to give you a
better understanding of what you will
need to do.
Colours are for reference only and will
It is important to check your stitch count
vary based on lighting, monitor settings
at the end of each row.
and devices.

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T-t-t-t-t-t Touch Me
The blanket is designed as a 130cm x 138cm lapghan,
especially comforting to people with Alzheimer’s, autism,
dementia, or sensory disabilities. Fiddle bits and pieces are
calming and therapeutic, while the weight provides warmth
and comfort. There really is no need to stitch anything on (my
pet-hate), as each section has its own unique texture with
some sections of the blanket having an alternative option.
Having said that, I came across some buttons and tassels
that said “T-t-t-t-t-t Touch Me” and out came the needle and
thread.

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Materials
• Yarn weight: DK acrylic.
• Hook sizes - 4.0mm / 4.5mm.
• Needle for sewing in ends.
• 490 - 8mm beads (these are optional; there is an alternative to this section).
• Skill level: Intermediate.
• Stitch markers.

Note: Be mindful of the weight of the beads chosen as you may find that glass beads
become too heavy.

Yarn Quantities
Rainbow Blanket – Colourway 1

A – Banana 2 x 100g 466 metres (512 yards)

B – Sunshine 1 x 100g 233 metres (256 yards)
C – Red 2 x 100g 466 metres (512 yards)
D – Cherry Red 2 x 100g 466 metres (512 yards)
E – Regal 2 x 100g 466 metres (512 yards)
F – Violet 1 x 100g 233 metres (256 yards)
G – Royal 1 x 100g 233 metres (256 yards)
H – Saxe 1 x 100g 233 metres (256 yards)
I – Turquoise 1 x 100g 233 metres (256 yards)
J – Aqua 1 x 100g 233 metres (256 yards)
K – Tropical 1 x 100g 233 metres (256 yards)
L – Dark Turq. 1 x 100g 233 metres (256 yards)
M – Navy 3 x 100g 699 metres (768 yards)

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Yarn Quantities
Blue/Green Blanket – Colourway 2

A – Silver 3 x 100g 750 metres (820yards)

B – Vanilla 3 x 100g 750 metres (820yards)
C – Storm Blue 3 x 100g 750 metres (820yards)
D – Azure 3 x 100g 750 metres (820yards)
E – Mint 3 x 100g 750 metres (820yards)

• The pattern is written to follow Colourway 1. If you are following Colourway 2, please
keep an eye on the colours listed row by row as fastening off instructions may differ.

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Tension and Gauge
• The beadwork in the blanket needs to have a very loose tension.
• It is recommended that you work up a gauge swatch to ensure that the beaded
section of the blanket lies correctly.
• Practice adding beads to the gauge swatch before you begin the blanket as this will
make it easier to determine if you may need to use a smaller bead.
• If you are struggling to keep the beads in a straight line, you can use a smaller bead.
• Gauge swatch – 18sts (sc) x 20 rows = 10cm x 10cm.

Pattern Info
• The pattern uses US terminology.
• The pattern does not include step by step photo tutorials.

• *…* – Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.
This repeat will contain multiple instructions.
• […] – Repeat the instructions between the square brackets the number of times
indicated.
• {…} – Repeat the instructions between the parentheses the number of times
indicated.
• Please note if you are using a thicker yarn, you might need to increase the
recommended hook size.
• Pattern notes are indicated in red.

• The blanket is worked in straight rows. This means you will work one row on the right
side of your work, then turn your work over and work the next row on the wrong side,
unless otherwise instructed.

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Pattern Info
• Pop a stitch marker into the front of your blanket to make it easier to tell which is the
right side.
• When working through a multitude of stitches in a blanket like this, it can be tricky to
keep the edges straight. Keep a close eye on the notes at the beginning of each part of
the pattern as these will tell you where you may need to adjust your tension or change
hook size to give a neater edge.
• If the edges of the blanket are pulling in, it means the stitchwork is tighter. You will
need to loosen your tension or use a half or full hook size bigger.
• If the blanket edges are pushing out or bulging, it means the stitchwork is looser. You
will need to tighten your tension or use a half or full hook size smaller.
• You may still end up with some wobbly edges, but, as long as you maintain an even
width to your blanket while working through the parts (no more than 1.5cm bigger or
smaller than the previous part), a wobbly edge can be blocked straight before you
add the border.
• It is very important to keep track of your stitch count and to always maintain the
correct count.
• Use stitch markers to mark the first and the last stitch on each row as sometimes they
can be tricky to find.
• The pattern is written with a ch 1 or ch 2 to begin every row; however, to obtain a
neater edge use the alternative single crochet – half double crochet – double crochet
– extended double crochet. See link below:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRUj47PQb9o&t=76s

• The foundation row is written as a standard chain row. I used the back bump
technique for a neater finish on my blanket. You can watch a video tutorial for this
technique here:
Tutorial - Working into a Starting Chain - YouTube

• As you work the pattern you will add “Déjà vu” between each part before
commencing the next part. If you are changing colors for this section, right or wrong
side to start does not really matter. If you are working in a cake or single color, just
continue by turning your work.
• If you are concerned about the loops and beads, etc. in some of the stitchwork
perhaps being a safety issue, alternative stitchwork has been provided for certain
sections of the pattern.

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Pattern Info
• Stitches can look a little different from the wrong side of your work to the right side of
your work and sometimes it can be confusing as to where the next stitch should go.
• When your stitches are facing the right side up, the top loop of the stitch will fall
before the post of the stitch.

• When your stitches are facing the wrong side up, the top loop of the stitch will fall
after the post of the stitch.

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Sizing the Blanket
• Due to the intended purpose of the blanket, the pattern has been written to work a
lap blanket.
• If you would like to adapt the size of the blanket, work in multiples of 8+4.
• Please note, due to the nature of the stitchwork used in the pattern, adapting the size
will mean that you will need to fudge a few stitches at the end of a row and the
beginning of the following row in certain parts of the pattern.
• You may find that you get to the end of the row as written in the pattern and you
have 1 or 2 stitches more or 1 or 2 stitches less than the pattern states. This will only
be in certain sections of the pattern and is very easy to fudge by simply leaving off the
stitches or adding them on. Keep an eye on the following rows in the section to
ensure the stitchwork lies correctly.
• The repeats written in the pattern will change if you are adapting the size of the
blanket.
• The stitch counts on the border will alter if you are adapting the size of the blanket.

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Abbreviations
bead st see stitch tutorials
blo back loop only - see stitch descriptions
bobble st see stitch tutorials
ch chain
ch 10 picot see stitch tutorials
cl cluster
dc double crochet
ext dc see stitch descriptions
fl front loop
fpdc front post double crochet
fptrc front post treble crochet
hdc half double crochet
hhdc herringbone half double crochet - see stitch
tutorials
honey drop st see stitch tutorials
ps puff stitch (7 loops) - see stitch tutorials
sc single crochet
sc picot see stitch descriptions
sk skip
sl st slip stitch
sp/s space/spaces
st/s stitch/ stitches
trc treble crochet
3dc ext cl see stitch tutorials
3dc ext cl with bead st see stitch tutorials
5fpdc ext cl see stitch tutorials
10fpdc ext cl see stitch tutorials
yo yarn over

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Stitch Formations
• Certain parts of the pattern will have a grouping of stitches, or rows of stitches, that
work together to create an overall pattern or stitch formation in the design.
• These are not listed in the abbreviations but include the following:
Alpine Stitch
Crocodile Stitch
Curly Stitch
Flowers
Jacob’s Ladder
Loop Stitch
Marshmallow Stitch
Pebble Stitch
Ruffle Stitch
Waffle Stitch
• Some of these will have tutorials for stitches used in the formations, others will have
clear row by row instructions.

Stitch Descriptions
Back Loop Only – blo (Part 2).
• When instructed to work blo in the pattern, you will work only into the back loop of
the indicated stitch.
• If you are familiar with working the 3rd loop to stabilize the stitches while working blo,
please remember that this technique will not apply in this pattern (when turning a
blanket to work on the right and wrong side, the stitch anatomy changes and the hdc
will not have the 3rd loop available to work into on the reverse side of the stitches).

Single Crochet Picot – sc picot (Part 5).

• Insert the hook into the indicated stitch and pull up a loop – 2 loops on the hook.
• (Yo, pull through 1 loop) – 3 times.
• Yo, pull through the remaining 2 loops.

Extended Double Crochet – ext dc (Part 5).

• Yo, insert the hook into the indicated stitch and pull up a loop – 3 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through 1 loop only – 3 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through 2 loops – twice.

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Stitch Tutorials
Bobble Stitch – bobble st (Part 1).
• The stitch should be worked with the wrong side facing up.
• Yo, insert your hook into the indicated stitch or space, pull up a loop.
• Yo, pull through 2 loops - 2 loops on the hook.
• Yo, insert your hook into the same stitch or space and pull up a loop.
• Yo, pull through 2 loops - 3 loops on the hook.
• Yo, insert your hook into the same stitch or space and pull up a loop.
• Yo, pull through 2 loops - 4 loops on the hook.
• Yo, insert your hook into the same stitch or space and pull up a loop.
• Yo, pull through 2 loops - 5 loops on the hook.
• Yo, insert your hook into the same stitch or space and pull up a loop.
• Yo, pull through 2 loops - 6 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through all 6 loops.
• Pull the first sc directly after each bobble nice and tight.

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Bobble Stitch – continued.

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Stitch Tutorials
Crocodile Stitch – stitch formation (Part 2).
• Three rows are worked to form a little “scale” on the surface of your work: (1) the
foundation row, (2) working the crocodile stitch and (3) an anchoring row.
• Work the foundation row as instructed in the pattern, remembering to make sure the
foundation row is worked on the wrong side of your work (dc 2 in the next st, ch 2, sk
2 sts, dc 1 in the next st, ch 1, sk 2 sts).

• The next row will be working the actual crocodile stitch. You will only be working
around the posts of the sets of 2 dc, everything in between will be skipped. Work the
pattern as instructed until you reach the 1st set of 2 dc.
• Dc 5 around the post of the 1st dc (the dc on the right-hand side of the 2 dc), working
from the top of the post down to the bottom. Pivot your work so it is comfortable to
work the stitches.

Work around the post of the 1st dc.

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 Crocodile Stitch – continued.
• Ch1, then dc 5 around the post of the 2nd dc (the dc on the left-hand side of the 2 dc),
working from the bottom of the post up to the top. Pivot your work so it is
comfortable to work the stitches.
Once the crocodile stitch is complete, it should be sitting on the right side of your
work (the dc that are worked for the crocodile stitches will be wrong side facing up).

Work around the post of the 2nd dc.

• Ch1, skip all of the stitchwork until you reach the next set of 2 dc, work the next
crocodile stitch.

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 Crocodile Stitch – continued.
• The final row is to anchor the stitches and is worked wrong side up: follow the written
instructions provided in the pattern.

Wrong side Right side

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Stitch Tutorials
Chain 10 Picot – ch 10 picot (Part 6).
• Chain 10.
• Insert the hook down through the top of the last stitch and out through the post of
the same stitch.
• Yo, pull through all of the loops.

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Stitch Tutorials
Extended Cluster Stitches.

Three double crochet extended cluster with Bead Stitch – 3dc ext cl with
bead st (Part 5).
• This is a combination of two stitches worked together to form the row.

To work the three double crochet extended cluster – 3dc ext cl.
• The stitch is worked as a split stitch. It begins in the same stitch as the previous stitch
and ends in another stitch.
• Yo, insert the hook into the 1st indicated stitch and pull up a loop – 3 loops on the
hook.
• Yo, pull through 2 loops – 2 loops on the hook.
• Yo, insert the hook into the 2nd indicated stitch and pull up a loop – 4 loops on the
hook.
• Yo, pull through 2 loops – 3 loops on the hook.
• Yo, insert the hook into the 3rd indicated stitch and pull up a loop – 5 loops on the
hook.
• Yo, pull through 2 loops – 4 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through 3 loops – 2 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through remaining 2 loops.

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 Three double crochet extended cluster with Bead Stitch – continued.

• Now work a bead stitch (next tutorial) around the top of the completed 3dc ext cl.

To work the Bead Stitch – bead st.

• When working this stitch, keep all of the loops to the same height as the 1st loop that
you pull up for a nice, neat stitch.
• Yo, insert hook around the top (front to the back) of the 3dc ext cl and pull up a loop –
3 loops on the hook.
• (Yo, insert the hook around the top of the same 3dc ext cl and pull up a loop) – twice.
You should have 7 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through 6 loops – 2 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through remaining 2 loops.

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 Three double crochet extended cluster with Bead Stitch – continued.

• To continue the row of stitches, remember to work the 1st “dc” of the next 3dc ext cl
into the same stitch as the last “dc” of the previous 3dc ext cl.

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Stitch Tutorials
Extended Cluster Stitches.

Worked for Marshmallow Stitch – stitch formation (Part 3).

Five front post double crochet extended cluster– 5fpdc ext cl.
• Yo, insert the hook from the front, around the back of the post of the 1st indicated
stitch and pull up a loop – 3 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through 2 loops – 2 loops on the hook.
• Yo, insert the hook from the front, around the back of the post of the 2nd indicated
stitch and pull up a loop – 4 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through 2 loops – 3 loops on the hook.
• Yo, insert the hook from the front, around the back of the post of the 3rd indicated
stitch and pull up a loop – 5 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through 2 loops – 4 loops on the hook.
• Yo, insert the hook from the front, around the back of the post of the 4th indicated
stitch and pull up a loop – 6 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through 2 loops – 5 loops on the hook.
• Yo, insert the hook from the front, around the back of the post of the 5th indicated
stitch and pull up a loop – 7 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through 2 loops – 6 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through 5 loops on the hook – 2 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through remaining 2 loops.

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Five front post double crochet extended cluster – continued.

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Stitch Tutorials
Extended Cluster Stitches.

Worked for Marshmallow Stitch – stitch formation (Part 3).

Ten front post double crochet extended cluster– 10fpdc ext cl.
• Yo, insert the hook from the front, around the back of the post of the 1st indicated
stitch and pull up a loop – 3 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through 2 loops – 2 loops on the hook.
• Yo, insert the hook from the front, around the back of the post of the 2nd indicated
stitch and pull up a loop – 4 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through 2 loops – 3 loops on the hook.
• Yo, insert the hook from the front, around the back of the post of the 3rd indicated
stitch and pull up a loop – 5 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through 2 loops – 4 loops on the hook.
• Yo, insert the hook from the front, around the back of the post of the 4th indicated
stitch and pull up a loop – 6 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through 2 loops – 5 loops on the hook.
• Yo, insert the hook from the front, around the back of the post of the 5th indicated
stitch and pull up a loop – 7 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through 2 loops – 6 loops on the hook.
• Yo, insert the hook from the front, around the back of the post of the 6th indicated
stitch and pull up a loop – 8 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through 2 loops – 7 loops on the hook.
• Yo, insert the hook from the front, around the back of the post of the 7th indicated
stitch and pull up a loop – 9 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through 2 loops – 8 loops on the hook.
• Yo, insert the hook from the front, around the back of the post of the 8th indicated
stitch and pull up a loop – 10 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through 2 loops – 9 loops on the hook.
• Yo, insert the hook from the front, around the back of the post of the 9th indicated
stitch and pull up a loop – 11 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through 2 loops – 10 loops on the hook.
• Yo, insert the hook from the front, around the back of the post of the 10th indicated
stitch and pull up a loop – 12 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through 2 loops – 11 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through 10 loops on the hook – 2 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through remaining 2 loops.

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Ten front post double crochet extended cluster – continued.

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Ten front post double crochet extended cluster – continued.

Ten front post double crochet extended cluster – continued.

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Ten front post double crochet extended cluster – continued.

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 Ten front post double crochet extended cluster – continued.
• The written pattern will provide instructions on how to combine the stitches to form
the marshmallow stitch, keep a close eye on your tension with the extended front
post rows of this stitch formation. It is recommended that you go up half a hook size
to work the extended front post rows, this will help keep the blanket edges straight.
Keep an eye for notes in the pattern.

Wrong side Right side

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Stitch Tutorials
Flowers (Part 7).
• The flowers are formed by working around the posts of 2 dc that are worked into the
same st. Follow the written pattern for the row instructions. To work the flower:
• Dc 2 in the next st, ch 2, work dc 2 around the post of the 2nd dc (of 2 dc worked into
the same stitch), ch 2, sl st into the post of the same space – 1st petal made.
• {Ch 2, dc 2 around the post of the same dc (as the 1st petal), ch 2, sl st into the same
space} – twice – 3 petals made.
• Ch 2, rotate your work so the stitches are comfortable to work, dc 2 around the post
of the 1st dc (of 2 dc worked into the same stitch), ch 2, sl st into the same space – 4th
petal made.
• Ch 2, dc 2 around the post of the same dc (as the 4th petal), ch 2, sl st into the same
space – 5th petal made.
• Rotate your work so the hook is back at the top of the stitches and continue to work
the row as written in the pattern.

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Flowers – continued.

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Stitch Tutorials
Herringbone half double crochet – hhdc (Border).
• Yo, insert the hook into the indicated stitch and pull up a loop – 3 loops on the hook.
• Do not yarn over, continue to pull the 1st loop on the hook through the 2nd loop on
the hook, like you would for a slip stitch.
• Yo, pull through the two remaining loops on the hook.

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Stitch Tutorials
Honey Drop Stitch (Part 6).
• Yarn over 4 times, insert the hook into the indicated stitch and pull up a loop – 6 loops
on the hook.
• (Yarn over, pull through 2 loops) – 4 times – 2 loops on the hook.
• Insert the hook into the same stitch and pull up a loop (make sure the ‘bobble’ sits to
the front of your work and you are keeping the stitch nice and tight), yarn over and
pull through the 3 remaining loops on the hook.

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Honey Drop Stitch – continued.

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Stitch Tutorials
Worked for Pebble Stitch – stitch formation (Part 7).

7 loop puff stitch – puff st

• Yo, insert hook into the indicated stitch or space and pull up a loop – 3 loops on the
hook.
• (Yo, insert the hook into the same stitch or space and pull up a loop) – twice. You
should have 7 loops on the hook.
• Yo, pull through all 7 loops.
• For this particular pattern, do not ch1 to close the puff stitch.

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Stitch Tutorials
Loop Stitch (Part 4).
• Make sure you are working with the wrong side of your work facing up and begin with
a sc in the first stitch.
• Pull up a loop with your finger (the length of the finished loop will depend on the
height that the yarn is pulled up to).
• Now, keep holding the loop in place on your finger and insert the hook into the next
stitch.

• Keep holding the loop in place on your finger, swivel your hook so the head of the
hook is facing the loop on your finger.

• Insert the hook under the two strands of the loop on your finger, “grab” both strands
of yarn that form the loop with your hook and pull them through the stitch that the
hook is inserted into. Do not pull the loop all the way through the stitch or it will form
a knot. You are going to pull through the stitch so the loop then forms part of the
loops on your hook, as you would when you yarn over and pull up a loop normally – 3
loops on the hook.

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 Loop Stitch – continued.

• Now remove your finger from the loop, making sure that the working yarn is sitting
behind the loop (if the loop falls behind the working yarn, it will not be anchored
correctly and the stitch will unravel), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on the
hook.

Wrong side

Right side

• Try to pull the yarn up to the same height on each stitch to keep the loops to the
same length. If some of them are a slightly different length it will not be visible in the
blanket so don’t panic.

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THANK YOU FOR YOUR SUPPORT

For more visit us on:

ravelry.com/designers/hooked-on-sunshine

hookedonsunshine.co/youtube.com

instagram.com/hooked_on_sunshine/

facebook.com/groups/1370975902929963

hookedonsunshine.co

You can get assistance in our Facebook group with pattern questions.
As always – a special thank you to our test teams!

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