TEXTILE FIBRES

Fiber Facts
Fibers are natural or chemical structures that can be spun into yarns. Yarns
then can be woven, knitted, or bonded into fabrics. Fiber properties and
behavior are directly related to fabric performance and care. Learning about
fibers and their characteristics will help you to understand fabrics better.

Four major natural fibers and 23 man-made fibers are available. Natural
fibers come from plants and animals. The plant fibers---cotton and linen---are
made of cellulose. Animal fibers, silk and wool, are made of protein.

Two classes of man-made fibers are those adapted from cellulose (cellulosic)
and those made entirely of chemicals (noncellulosic). Noncellulosic man-made
fibers often are called synthetics.

Each fiber is identified by a generic name. The Textile Fiber Products

Identification Act that officially established the generic fiber classifications
became effective in 1960. All fibers (natural or man-made), yarns, fabrics, and
household textile articles (includes articles of wearing apparel, draperies,
floorcoverings, furnishings, beddings, and other textiles customarily used in a
household), are covered by this Act.

Fibrous materials should possess certain properties for them to be useful as

textile raw materials. Those properties which are essential for acceptance as a
suitable raw material may be classified as "primary properties", while those
which add specific desirable character or aesthetics to the end product and its
use may be classified as "secondary properties".

Primary Properties

Length; length-width ratio

Tenacity (strength)
Flexibility (pliability)
Acceptable extensibility for processing
Cohesion
Uniformity of properties

Secondary Properties

Physical shape (cross-section, surface contour, etc.)

Specific gravity (influence weight, cover, etc.)
Moisture regain and moisture absorption (comfort, static electricity, etc.)
Elastic character - tensile and compression
Thermoplasticity (softening point and heat-set character)
Dyeability
Resistance to solvents, corrosive chemicals, micro-organisms, and environmental
conditions
Flammability
Luster

SUMMARY OF PROPERTIES DESIRED FOR TEXTILE FIBERS:

Apparel and Domestic application:

Tenacity: 3 - 7 grams/denier
Elongation at break: 10 - 35%
Recovery from elongation: 100% at strains up to 5%
Modulus of elasticity: 30 - 60 grams/denier
Moisture absorbency: 2 - 5%
Zero strength temperature (excessive creep and softening
point): above 215° C
High abrasion resistance (varies with type fabric structure)
Dyeable
Low flammability
Insoluble with low swelling in water, in moderately strong acids
and bases and

conventional organic solvents from room temperature to 100° C

Ease of care
Industrial Requirements
Tenacity: 7 - 8 grams/denier
Elongation at break: 8 - 15%
Modulus of elasticity: 80 grams/denier or more conditioned, 50
grams/denier wet
Zero strength temperature: 250° C or above

KEY FIBER PROPERTIES DETERMINED BY POLYMER COMPOSITION AND

STRUCTURE:

 Melting Point
 Modulus
 Elasticity and recovery from strain
 Tensile strength
 Density
 Moisture absorption
 Dyeability
 Comfort

Fiber Property Is Due To ContributesTo Fabric

 Property
Tough outer layer,
Abrasion Resistance The ability of Durability, Abrasion
scales, or skin. Fiber
a fiber to withstand the rubbing or resistance, Resistance to
toughness. Flexible
abrasion it gets in everyday use splitting.
molecular chains.
Absorbency or Moisture Comfort, warmth, water
Regain The percentage of moisture repellency, absorbency,
Hydroxyl groups,
a bone-dry fiber will absorb from static build-up Dyeability,
amorphous areas.
the air under standard conditions of spotting. Shrinkage.
temperature and pressure Wrinkle Resistance.
Aging Resistance Chemical structure Storing of fabrics
Chemical Reactivity The effect of Care required in
Polar groups of
acids, alkali, oxidizing agents, cleaning/bleaching; ability
molecules
solvents to take acid or alkali finishes
Cohesiveness The ability of fibers
to cling together during spinning;
Crimp or twists Resistance to ravel
not important in continuous
filament.
Crimp, curl, or twist,
Cover The ability to occupy space Warmth in fabric, Cost -
Cross-sectional
for concealment or protection. less fiber needed
shape
Lack of side chains,
Creep Delayed elasticity; Recovers cross links, strong Streak dying and shiners in
gradually from strain bonds; poor fabric
orientation
Density - See Specific Gravity
Dyeability The fibers' receptivity to Amorphous areas
Aesthetics and colorfastness
coloration by dyes and dye sites
Molecular structure:
Elastic Recovery The ability of side chains, cross Processability of fabrics,
fibers to recover from strain linkages, strong Resiliency
bonds
Elasticity The ability of a stretched
material to return immediately to Delayed elasticity or creep
its original size
Poor conductivity causes
Electric Conductivity The ability to Chemical structure:
fabric to cling to the body,
transfer electrical charges polar groups
electric shocks
Elongation The ability to be Fiber crimp. Increases tear strength.
stretched, extended, or lengthened; Molecular structure: Reduces brittleness.
varies at different temperatures and molecular crimp Provides "give" and
when wet or dry. orientation stretchiness.
Fabrics can be made directly
Feltability The ability of fibers to Scale structure of
from fibers. Special care
mat together wool
required during washing.
Flammability The ability to ignite Chemical
Fabrics Burn
and burn Composition
Hand The way a fiber feels: silky, Cross-sectional Hand of fabric
 shape, crimp,
harsh, soft, crisp, dry.
diameter, length
Heat Conductivity The ability to Crimp. Cross-
Warmth
conduct heat away from the body sectional shape
Heat vibrates
Heat Sensitivity The ability to
molecules. Fewer Determine safe washing and
soften, melt, or shrink when
intermolecular forces ironing temperatures
subjected to heat.
and cross links.
Hydrophilic or Hydroscopic - See
Absorbency
Luster The light reflected from a Smoothness, Fiber
surface; more subdued than shine; Length, Flat or lobal Luster
light rays are broken up. shape.
Loft of Compressional
Resiliency The ability to spring Fiber Crimp, Springiness, good cover.
back to original thickness after Stiffness Resistance to flattening.
being compressed
Mildew Resistance Low absorption Care during storage
Molecule has no
Moth Resistance Care during storage
sulfur
Piling The bailing up of fiber ends Fiber Strength. High Piling, Unsightly
on the surface of fabrics. Molecular weight. appearance.
Specific Gravity and Density The
measures of the weight of a fiber;
Density is the weight in grams per Warmth without weight.
cubic centimeter and specific Molecular Weight Loftiness - full and light.
gravity is the ratio of the mass of Buoyancy to fabric.
the fiber to an equal volume of
water at 4° C.
Stiffness and rigidity The opposite Ratio of breaking
Body of fabric. Resistance
of flexibility; The resistance to stress to breaking
to insertion of yarn twist.
bending or creasing strain
Strength The ability to resist as Molecular structure: Durability, tear strength,
tensile strength (pounds per square Orientation, sagging, pilling. Sheerer
inch) or as tenacity (grams per crystallinity, degree fabrics possible with
denier). of polymerization. stronger fine fibers.
Sunlight Resistance The ability to Durability of curtains and
Chemical
withstand degradation from direct draperies, outdoor furniture,
composition
sunlight. outdoor carpeting.
Resists rupture from
Outer surface or
Toughness deformation, gives frictional
"skin" of fiber
resistance.
Chemical and
Wicking The ability of a fiber to
physical composition Makes fabrics comfortable
transfer moisture along its surface.
of outer surfaces.
POLYESTER
Characteristics:

Strong

Crisp, soft hand

Resistant to stretching and shrinkage

Washable or dry-cleanable

Quick drying

Resilient, wrinkle resistant

excellent pleat retention (if heat set)

Abrasion resistant

Resistant to most chemicals

Because of its low absorbency, stain removal can be a problem

Static and pilling problems

Major End Uses:

Apparel - essentially every form of clothing, dresses, blouses, jackets, separates,
sportswear, suits, shirts, pants, rainwear, lingerie, children wear.
Home Fashions - curtains, draperies, floor coverings, fiber fill, upholstery,
bedding.

Comments - Of all the manufactured fibers, polyester is the most used. Polyester
is the best wash-and-wear fiber. Unfortunately, because of the over-saturation of
polyester 20 to 30 years ago, some consumers maintain a negative perception about
the fiber. But, that is changing. As with the other manufactured fibers, new
developments in polyester have created a new attitude towards manufactured
fibers. This is true, not only for manufacturers and designers, but also for
consumers. In addition, when polyester is blended with other dry-clean only fibers,
like wool, acetate, or rayon, the durability of the blended fabric improves and, in
some cases, the fabrics can even be made washable, if the percentage of polyester
is high enough.

RAYON:
cellulosic-based from wood pulp

Characteristics: Soft and comfortable

Drapes well

Highly absorbent

Dyes and prints well

No static, no pilling problems

Fabric can shrink appreciably if washing dry-clean-only rayon

Washable or dry cleanable.

Major End Uses:

Apparel - Blouses, dresses, jackets, lingerie, linings, millinery, slacks, sportshirts,
sportswear, suits, ties, work clothes
Home Fashions - bedspreads, blankets, curtains, draperies, sheets, slip covers, table
cloths, upholstery.

Comments - One of the major characteristics of rayon, also called viscose, centers
around the care of the fabric. For those of you who have been around rayon a lot,
you know that there are both washable and "dry clean only" rayons in the garments
that you sell. Why are there both washable and non-washable rayons? Originally
rayon was a "dry clean only" fiber. However, the fiber producers discovered that
they could create washability in rayon by putting certain finishes on the surface of
the fabric after it was knitted or woven. But this also added to the price. So, today
many rayons in the marketplace remain untreated, and are therefore "dry clean
only."

It's very important to read the labels, and make the customer aware that just
because he or she may have purchased a washable rayon last week, that doesn't
mean that all rayons are washable. Anytime a rayon garment, labeled "dry clean
only," is washed, a risk is taken, and one of three things may happen. First the
garment can shrink tremendously, sometimes as much as two or three sizes.
Second, the garment may fade, or a printed pattern may bleed. And third, the fabric
may lose its soft hand. The rayon that was once soft and drapeable may become
stiff and harsh.
There's also something important to remember when caring for the washable
rayons. Most of the washable rayon garments today are labeled "hand wash, cool
water, drip dry or dry flat." And, it's important that these directions are followed,
because when rayon is wet, it actually loses 30% to 50% of its strength. So, hand
washing, like the label says, is the best. The constant agitation of the washer, and
tumbling of the dryer will beat the garment against the side of the washer and
dryer. And, eventually this causes the fiber to break down, and shorten the life of
the rayon garment. So, in order to get the maximum life out of your washable
rayon garment, it's best to hand wash and drip/hang dry.

ACETATE:
Manufactured Fiber - cellulose-based, made from wood pulp or cotton linters

Characteristics: Luxurious appearance Crisp or soft hand Wide range of

colors; dyes and prints well Excellent drapeability and softness Shrink, moth, and
mildew resistant Low moisture absorbency, relatively fast drying No pilling
problem, little static problem Most acetate garments require dry-cleaning

Major End Uses: Apparel- Blouses, dresses, linings, special occasion apparel,
Home Fashions - Draperies, upholstery, curtains, bedspreads.

Acetate is a "dry clean only" fiber. However, again, read the label, because many
of the new acetate circular knits, that have been out on the market for a few years,
are hand washable. So far, there is no washable woven acetate available in the
marketplace.

Comments - Acetate takes color extremely well. It is also very soft and drapable.
Acetate has been blended with a wide variety of other fibers. Experimenting has
also been done with different knitting and weaving techniques, which has resulted
in the development of a variety of fabrics suitable for many markets. Prior to these
developments, the major uses for acetate in apparel were as a liner in coats, jackets,
blazers, etc., and as a major fabric in special occasion dresses - acetate velvets,
crepes, taffetas, and satins were ideal for this market. Because of these new fabric
developments, acetate has been elevated to the designer level with many major
designers using acetate in their lines.

ACRYLIC
Characteristics:

Light-weight, soft, warm with a wool-like

hand Dyes to bright colors with excellent fastness

Outstanding wickability Machine washable, quick drying

Resilient; retains shape; resists shrinkage, & wrinkles

Flexible aesthetics for wool-like, cotton-like or blended appearance

Excellent pleat retention

Resistant to moths, oil and chemicals

Superior resistance to sunlight degradation

Static and pilling can be a problem

Major End Uses:

Apparel : sweaters, socks, fleece, circular knit apparel, sportswear, childrenswear
Home Fashions : Blankets, throws, upholstery, awnings, outdoor furniture,
rugs/floor coverings
Comments - Acrylic is a soft drapeable fabric which provides warmth without
being heavy. It takes color beautifully. Although acrylic has traditionally been a
fall/winter fabric, with a wonderful resemblance to wool, acrylic has recently been
used in developing some light weight circular knits and blends which lend
themselves to trans-seasonal dressing as well. Acrylic is comfortable to wear. It
feels like wool. Yet, it is easy care and is machine washable or dry cleanable.

LYOCELL:
Cellulose-based

Characteristics:

Excellent strength

Washable

Shrink- and wrinkle-resistant

Soft hand Excellent drape

Absorbent Dyes and

prints well
Major End Uses:
Apparel - dresses, suits, sportswear, pants, jackets, blouses, skirts.
Home Fashions - curtains, draperies, upholstery, bedspreads, table linens, sheets,
dish towels, bath towels.

Comments - This is the newest cellulosic fiber, and a new brand name that you
may have seen recently is Tencel®. This fiber is cellulosic, and it is very similar to
rayon in appearance. The major difference between lyocell and rayon is that lyocell
is much more durable and has a much stronger wet strength. It can also be machine
washable and dryable.

MICROFIBERS:
available in acrylic, nylon, polyester and rayon.

Characteristics:

Ultra fine (less than 1.0 dpf),

finer than the most delicate silk

Extremely drapeable

Very soft, luxurious hand with a silken or suede touch

Washable, dry cleanable

Shrink-resistant

High strength (except Rayon)

Excellent pleat retention

Insulates well against wind, rain and cold

Major End Uses:

Apparel - hosiery, blouses, dresses, separates, sportswear, ties, scarves, menswear,
intimate apparel, active wear, swimwear, outerwear, rainwear.
Home Fashions - curtains, draperies, upholstery, sheets, towels, blankets.

Comments - Micro-fibers is not really a fiber unto itself. Rather, it refers to an

ultra-fine fiber, which can be woven or knit into a very high quality fabric
construction. Originally, when DuPont introduced the first microfiber in 1989, it
was a polyester microfiber. However, today in addition to polyester microfibers,
there are also nylon microfibers that have become important in the pantyhose
market, rayon microfibers, and acrylic microfibers.

One of the important characteristics of microfiber fabrics is that they can be woven
so tightly that the fabric can't be penetrated by wind, rain, or cold. For this reason,
raincoat manufacturers have become big users of polyester microfibers.
Microfibers also have a wicking ability, which allows perspiration to pass through
the fabric. Microfibers are comfortable to wear.

NYLON
Characteristics:

Lightweight

Exceptional strength

Good drapeability

Abrasion resistant

Easy to wash

Resists shrinkage and wrinkling

resilient, pleat retentive

Fast drying, low moisture absorbency

Can be precolored or dyed in a wide range of colors

Resistant to damage from oil and many chemicals

Static and pilling can be a problem

Poor resistance to continuous sunlight

Major End Uses:

Apparel - swimwear, active wear, intimate apparel, foundation garments, hosiery,
blouses, dresses, sportswear, pants, jackets, skirts, raincoats, ski and snow apparel,
windbreakers, children wear.
Home Fashions - carpets, rugs, curtains, upholstery, draperies, bedspreads Other -
Luggage, back packets, life vests, umbrellas, sleeping bags, tents.

Comments - Nylon is one of the strongest fiber. For this reason it´s used in
garments that take a great deal of hard wear, like panty hose and swimwear.

The most popular fiber blend used in swimwear today is nylon and spandex.
Although nylon is a very strong fiber, it has poor resistance to prolonged exposure
to the sun. In addition, spandex breaks down from exposure to chlorine in pool
water. Yet, there probably aren´t a lot of old, worn out swimsuits being returned
because the fabric has wore out. That´s because the customer has learned through
experience that most swimsuits, if worn a lot, won´t last for much more than a
season or two. So, in many cases, when a customer shops for swimwear, she may
buy as many as two or three at a time in order to get herself through just one
season. This is because she has come to know what to expect from these fibers.

ELASTANE FIBERS:(LYCRA)
Elastane fibres, better known under their trade names, Lycra and Dorlastan, represent a
further high point in the development of man-made fibres. Invented in 1937 in Germany,
elastane has properties not found in nature, the most important being an extraordinary
elasticity.

Compared to rubber, elastane has both greater tear resistance and durability and a tension
capacity two or three times greater, at a third of the weight. Elastane is used in all areas where
a high degree of permanent elasticity is required, as, for example, in tights, sportswear,
swimwear, corsetry, and in woven and knitted fabrics. When stretched, it always reverts to its
original form. Elastane thus is a prerequisite for fashionable or functional apparel which is
intended to cling to the body, while at the same time remaining comfortable.

The fibre
Elastane combines its good properties with both natural and man-made fibres.

There are two principal methods used in processing elastane. One is to wrap the elastane fibre
in a non-elastic thread - either natural or man-made. The resulting yarn has the appearance
and feel of the outer fibre used. The second method involves using pure elastane threads,
which are worked or woven into fabrics made from other fibres. The added elasticity makes
such fabrics more comfortable to wear. Blends with elastane depend on the type of fabric and
the end use.

Properties
High performance and easy care.

 Elastane fibres can be stretched from four to seven times their length, reverting to
their original length when the tension is relaxed. Elastane has the highest stretch
tension of all textile raw materials.
  Two per cent elastane is enough to make trousers, for instance, retain their shape. For
body-shaped silhouette and high stretch capacity, i.e. in swimwear, corsetry or
sportswear, 15 - 40% elastane is used.
 Elastane fibres guarantee a high degree of comfort combined with great freedom of
movement.
 In woven and knitted fabrics elastane increases shape retention and accelerates
crease recovery.
 Elastane is not sensitive to transpiration, make-up, cosmetics, sun cream or sea water.
For example swimwear with elastane should be rinsed out after bathing.
 Elastane is easy to care for.


Major End Uses:
Apparel - articles where stretch is desired: athletic apparel, bathing suits,
foundation garments, ski pants, slacks, hosiery, socks, belts.

Comments - Lycra® is the most familiar spandex fiber, and is DuPont's brand
name for its spandex fiber. An interesting fact about spandex is that it was
developed as a substitute for rubber. And, when it was first introduced in 1959, it
totally revolutionized the swimwear and foundations industry. Although it has poor
strength, it stretches over 500%. So, the excellent stretch of spandex compensates
for the fact that it's a weak fiber.

SILK:
Natural Fiber - animal fiber created by the silk worm

Characteristics:

Soft or crisp hand

Luxurious

Drapes and tailors well Thinnest of all natural fibers

Dyes and prints well

Hand-washable or dry-cleanable

Little problem with static, no pilling problem

Only fair abrasion resistance Poor resistance

to prolonged exposure to sunlight

Major End Uses:

Apparel - dresses, blouses, skirts, jackets, pants, pants, scarves, ties.
Home Fashion - curtains, draperies, upholstery.

COTTON:
Natural Fiber - cellulosic

Characteristics:

Comfortable

Soft hand

Absorbent

Good color retention,

prints well

Machine-washable,

dry-cleanable

Good strength

Drapes well

Easy to handle and sew

Major End Uses: Apparel - Wide range of wearing apparel: blouses, shirts,
dresses, children wear, active wear, separates, swimwear, suits, jackets, skirts,
pants, sweaters, hosiery, neckwear. Home Fashions - curtains, draperies,
bedspreads, comforters, throws, sheets, towels, table cloths, table mats, napkins

FIBER BLENDS - SOME REASONS FOR BLENDING:

* To facilitate processing
* To improve properties
Abrasion resistance
strength
Absorbency
Add bulk and warmth
Hand
Dimensional stability
Resistance to wrinkling
* To produce multi-color fabrics
* To reduce cost

MICRO FIBER:
The first generation of man-made fibres needed substantial improvements
technically and commercially to establish a long lasting favorable relationship
between producers and consumers. Ongoing research have produced specialty
fibres such as high performance fibres, bio-degradable fibres, antibiotic fibres, flame
retardant fibres, ultra fine fibres etc. which has changed our way of life.

The genuine breakthrough occurred with the introduction of microfibre technology,

originated in Japan in the early1970s. It was only subsequently that their advantages
were recognized with regard to handle, napping potential and functional
characteristics such as air and moisture vapour permeability and insulation. The
development of microfibres, the fourth generation of man-made fibres, has even
surpassed the dream of Robert Hooke and made possible what for a long time was
regarded as unthinkable.

What a microfibre is:

Until recently there was no exact definition of microfibres. Generally, microfibres

refer to staple fibres, or individual filaments within yarns, which have a fineness less
than 1 decitex (0.9 denier). Despite the term 'fibre' being used, it is generally applied
to filament yarns. To be classified as microfibre yarn the weight per 10,000 meters of
yarn (dtex) is divided by the number of filaments (f), the result must be below 1
e.g. dtex 156 f 256 (=0.6).

Photograph of Tactel microfiber:

Although acrylic, viscose, polypropylene are available for the production of
microfibres, polyester and polyamide are mainstream. The fabrics made from them
canbe 100% microfibre or in blends with wool, cotton or viscose. Microfibres are finer
than the finest natural fibre i.e. silk (1 dpf =denier per filament) and are also called
'micro denier' or 'ultrafine' fibres. They are so fine that a single filament of Belima
X microfibre weighing just one pound can circle the earth, while another microfibre

Tactel Micro is 60 times stronger and 15 times finer than silk.

Production of microfibres:

Microfibre spinning is now possible by many of major fibre producers on their better existing
equipments. However, economical production of high quality microfibres will require significant
changes in future machine design and operation. There are two routes to produce microfibres i.e.

o Direct spinning (conventional POY spinning)

o Bi-component process (segment& Island-in-sea type)

In the first method, single component filaments are extruded through very fine
spinnerets (dia 0.2 mm or lower) and drawn at high draw ratio. However, more finer
fibre cannot be produced because of filament breakage after extrusion. The second
method involves spinning of conventional sized bicomponent filaments and break
them down into smaller components later. Very fine super microfibres (up to
0.001dpf) can be produced using bicomponent technique.

Properties and applications:

The tightly woven microfibre fabrics impede water droplets from penetrating but allow water
vapours to permeate.

Microfibres offer a great variety of applications in fashion clothing owing to their extra
softness, full handle, drape, comfort and easy-care properties. Tightly woven
microfibre fabrics exhibit an exceptional property of obstructing water droplets from
penetrating while allowing water vapour to escape resulting in increased comfort.
Their improved water impermeability and lower air permeability make microfibre
fabrics highly suitable for waterproof and windbreaker, leisurewear and sportswear
market.

Microfibres are increasingly used for ladies' fashion, outdoor wear and upholstery
fields. The fineness of microfibres excels in producing light weight, flowing drape and
silk-like fabrics and their handle can be substantially improved by appropriate
finishing e.g. emery treatment for peach-skin effect.
Characteristics problems:

Due to their fineness, the total surface area of microfibre yarn or fabric is far greater than ordinary
fibres. Threfore larger quantity of size need to be applied to microfilament warp yarns. Since
microfibres have very small interstices, with consequent difficulties of size accessibility and
duffusibility, desizing becomes quite difficult and costly. Microfibres have greater absorption area
resulting in a dyeing rate four times higher than that of normal, which can cause unlevelness in
dyeing. They also require more dyestuff than standard fibres to obtain the same depth of shade.
Larger external surface means an increase in number of threads exposed to light which, on
destruction of dye, is expressed as lower light fastness rating. Staple microfibres offer difficulty in
carding.

Technological developments:

The difficulty in processing microfibres can be overcome by proper selection of dyestuffs, using
appropriate dyeing machinery (air jet type) and choosing suitable processing parameters.

Knowledge of the type of size used is very important to optimise the desizing process. Pretreatment
must be done either on tensionless open-width washers or in Overflow or Jet dyeing machine. Control
of pH is important for optimum size removal (e.g. pH 10.5-11 for polyacrylate size). In batch
pretreatment process, material is circulated at 90' C for 30 mins followed by hot, cold rinsing and
neutralisation.The fabric is dried at 140-150' C on stenter. Materials having 100% microfibre warps or
have a peach-skin effect should be pre-set at 180' C for 30 sec before dyeing to ensure dimensional
stability and finished appearance. Emerising (sueding) effect, which imparts a slightly napped, peach-
like surface and a pleasant soft handle, has grown in importance for microfibre fabrics. Emerising
treatment must always be carried out before pre-settingto prevent an uneven surface.

Optimesed dyeing cycles can be worked out by controlling the temperature to

account for the high rate of dyeing and to eliminate the risk of uneven dyeing. A
slower dyebath cooling after dyeing prevents crease formation. The most useful
machine for microfibre fabric processing is a Jet dyeing machine (especially airflow
type) as theyallow the fabric to develop a desirable bulk. Examples of such machines
are Longclose Ventura Rapid Micro-Tech, Henriksen/Fong's Air Jet Thies Luft-roto&
soft stream SV etc. Proper dye selection (i.e. compatible dyes) eliminates problems
regarding build-up and fastness properties. Manufacturers like Yorkshire, ICI and
BASF offer new generation of dyes suitable for processing microfibres. An emerging
technology for dyeing polyester by using supercritical fluid (CO2) was tested on
polyestermicrofibre and initial trials have shown excellent levelness and fastnessof
dyeing. Finishing very often consists of both mechanical and chemical treatments.

Conclusion:

Microfibres are being increasingly used throughout the world for various end-uses due to their
fineness, high performance characteristics and their unique ability to be engineered for a specific
requirement. Extreme care must be taken during processing and handling of microfibre fabrics. This
requires specific equipment to be used when dyeing and finishing such delicate type of fabrics. Nylon
is claimed to have advantages over polyester in having a better cover, plus lower density, higher
strength and abrasion resistance, where this is very important. Polyester is easier to spin and is
available in finer filaments than nylon. Raised fabrics from polyester are somewhat easier to produce.
This has given polyester and economic advantage in apparel and sportswear markets.