FABRIC AROUND US

INTRODUCTION
• Clothes are basic need of man
• Used for covering body, as sheets, sofa
cover, curtains, towels, decorations etc.
• Important to study textile with emphasis on
fiber, yarns, fabric construction and
finishes.
 DEFINITIONS
• The smallest unit of cloth construction is
called fibre.
• Yarn made from fibre
• Cloth is made from yarn
Fibre ----- yarn ----- Cloth -----Textile
 CLASSIFICATION OF FIBRE
• Fibre is classified on the Basis of Length
and Origin
CLASSIFICATION BASED ON LENGTH
• STAPLE FIBER:
• FILAMENT FIBER: Mono and Multifilament fibre
CLASSIFICATION ON THE BASIS OF ORIGIN
• NATURAL FIBER :
• MAN MADE FIBER:
• BLENDED FIBER:
 CLASSIFICATION ON THE BASIS OF
LENGTH
• STAPLE FIBRE: (raw cotton, wool, hemp,
flax)
• Fibres are measured in inches
• Length varies from ½” to 5”
• All natural fibres except silk are staple
fibres
• Artificial fibres can be cut according to
requirement.
 CLASSIFICATION ON THE BASIS OF LENGTH
• FILAMENT FIBRE:
• Measured in meters only
• Silk is only natural fibre, which is filament fibre
• All artificial fibre can be increased in length according to
requirement
• Two types of filament fibre.
1. Monofilament fibre: made from single soft and strong
fibre
2. Multifilament fibre: made by twisting many long fibres.
3. They are bright, soft, and attractive.
4. They are durable and sturdy
 CLASSIFICATION OF FIBER
ON THE BASIS OF ORIGIN
1. Natural Fibre:
•Vegetable fibre: Cotton, Linen, Jute
•Animal Fibre: Wool and Silk:
•Mineral Fibre: Asbestos, Glass Fibre
2. Man – Made Fibre:
•Regenerated Fibre: Rayon
•Synthetic Fibre: Nylon, Decoron, Polyester
•Metal Fibre: Wires of Gold, Silver, Aluminium,
stainless steel etc.
3. Blended Fibre:
Terrycot
Terrysilk
Terry wool
Cotswool
 PROPERTIES OF FIBRE
• Textile fibre must have physical,
mechanical and chemical properties like
adequate length, strength, elasticity,
flexibility, absorbency etc.’
• Properties of fibre can be classified as
1.Physical
2.Chemical
3.Biological and 4. Thermal properties
 1.PHYSICAL
i) Length: long fibre are best for cloth
construction
• Long fibre gives softness and pliability.
ii) Lustre: is the amount of light reflected by a
surface(Shiny, dull, matte, sheen)
• Natural lustre enhances the value of the fibre.
iii) Strength: should have adequate strength for
cloth making. Strong fibre are durable.
iv) Elasticity: Ability of the fibre to return to it
original length after being stretched.
 PHYSICAL
v) Resiliency: The quality of the fibre to come back
to its original shape and volume after being
compressed. Cloths made by this fibre are wrinkle
free.
vi) Flexibility: Fibre is flexible if it bends without
breaking.
This ability provides drapability to the fibric.
vii) Absorbency: quality of fibre to absorb
moisture.
Cloth with this quality are more hygienic and can be
dyed easily.
 PHYSICAL
viii) Heat Conductivity: property of fibre to
transfer heat through fabric.
ix) Abrasion resistance: Ability to withstand
friction or rubbing in regular use.
•Affects service ability of the fabric.
•More durable.
x) Effect of Heat: textile fibre should not be
affected with heat. Fabric has to withstand
heat during processing and treatment.
 2. Chemical Properties
• Play a key role in manufacture, application
of finishes and care of the fabric.
• These include reaction of mild and strong
acids
• Alkalies and dyes on the fabric.
3. BIOLOGICAL PROPERTIES
• Determine the care, storage of fabric.
• Include effect of environment, moth and
mildew on the fabric.
 4. Thermal Properties
• Properties shown by a textile fabric when it
is subjected to heat.
• Physical and mechanical properties are
important for a fibre to spun in to yarn.
• For care and maintenance properties like
absorbency, effect of heat, acid, alkalies,
soap, detergents, environmental and
biological factors are important.
• For utility – aesthetic, comfort of consumer,
absorbency, drapability, elasticity etc.
 SOME IMPORTANT FIBRES
• Cotton, silk, wool, rayon, nylon
and polyester fibres are
commonly used for cloth
construction.
 Cotton
• Indian cotton cloths are best and more
attractive.
• Clothes of Dhaka Muslin, Jamdani, Chikan
are famous.
• China, India, United states, Pakistan,
Brazil and America are major producers
• Natural vegetable Fibre.
• Main component of cotton fibres is
cellulose.
Properties and significance.
 SILK
• Made of saliva of silkworm.
• First discovered in China.
• Japan, India, Italy, Spain, France and European
countries are major producers.
• Silkworm reared on the Mulberry leaves.
• LifeCycle – EGG – LARVA – Cocoon – Insect.
• It secreate saliva from 2 glands – double fibre
joint together with a gum like liquid called Sericin
• Cocoon heated in water Sericin softened and
fibre is separated.
• Fibres from cocoon are straightened in a
process called REELING.
• 8 to 10 fibres are straightened together at
a time.
• These are twisted in to a silk fibre.
• Once again heated to remove sericin from
silk fibre. Process is known as
DEGUMMING. Fibre is ready to weave.
• Silk is a natural Animal Fibre.
 WOOL
• Hair of Animals
• India is famous for woollen clothes
• Pashmina Shawls of Kashmir are world
famous.
• Best quality obtained from Marino sheep.
• Apart from sheep wool is also obtained from
Camel, Deer, foxes, rabbits, angora etc.
• Fibres are 2 types – Fleece and Pulled wool
1. Fleece: obtained from the skin of alive animals
2. Pulled Wool: skin of dead animals.
3. Three type of cloths are prepared from woollen
fibre.
1. Woollens: small fibre, do not require much
combing and spinning. Rough and thick
2. Worsted: Long fibre, combing and spinning is
needed. Cloths are durable and smooth surface.
Pant, coat, suit etc.
3. Felted Fabrics: directly made from fibre. Fibre are
joined together by appropriate moisture
temperature and pressure. Rough clothes.
Namda, pattu etc.
 Manufacturing of wool
• Shaving the wool from animal
• Acid treatment to make fibre soft and clean
• Dried
• After washing and drying fibre become stiff.
• Hence olive oil is sprayed
• Carding and combing of fibre
• Straightens the fibre. Silvering is followed by
spinning.
Effect of moth and mildew: Appears if cloth
is kept in damp place. Damage the woollen
cloth.
•Significance: should be stored after
exposing in sunlight, keep naphthalene balls
or dry neem leaves
Flammability: burns slowly
•Significance: used to extinguish fire.
 RAYON
• Oldest artificial man made fibre. First called as
“Artificial Silk”
• Raw material used is Cellulose – obtained from
cotton linters and wood pulp.
• Also called regenerated cellulosic fibre.
• Cellulose is chemically treated and rendering a
liquid called Viscose.
• This liquid forced through tiny holes of a spinneret
in to a coagulating medium.
• Fibre gets hardened in to solid cellulosic filament,
twisted together to form yarn.
PROPERTY SIGNIFICANCE
Length: can be controlled Smooth texture
Lustre: obtained in desired Have silk lustre and less
lustre expensive than silk
Strength: weaker than silk
and stronger than wool.
Looses strength when wet
Elasticity: greater elasticity
than cotton, less than wool
and silk
Resiliency: more resilient Wrinkles easily.
than cotton.
Absorbency: absorb more Suitable for summer wear.
moisture than cotton.
PROPERTY SIGNIFICANCE
Heat conductivity: good Comfortable for summer
conductor of heat wear
Effect of friction: cannot Washed gently
withstand friction
Effect of heat: affect fibre. Moderate hot iron.
Decomposes fibre
Effect of alkalies: destroy Mild soap for washing
Effect of acids: weakened
Dye: absorbs dye easily. evenly Window curtains
Moth and mildew: affected by Not allowed to remain
mildew and by moth damp
Flammability: catches fire, burns quickly.
 SYNTHETIC MAN MADE FIBRE.
• NYLON First artificial fibre
• Called as magic fibre
• Strong lustrous and easy to maintain.
• Nylon salt is prepared by combination of two salt.
Obtained by coaltar.
• On heating small particles are joined together in
polymers.
• Melted and pumped out of spinneret under pressure.
• Fibres get dried in air.
• Fibres are lengthy, soft and twisted.
 Polyester
• Referred to as Terylene or Terene or
Dacron.
• Properties of nylon and polyester are
same.
 Nylon and polyester.
Property Significance
Smooth surface
Length: controlled
Lustre: desired lustre
Strength: strongest and light in weight No damage due to wear and washing
Elasticity: have good elasticity High elasticity – outstanding
performance in hosiery
Good Resiliency Wrinkle free
Absorbency: nylon - do not absorb Easy stain removal. Suitable for rain
Polyester – slightly less absorbent. coat, shower curtains.
Heat Conductivity: bad conductor of Good for winter.
heat
Effect of friction: no adverse effect on Easy to wash
fibre
Effect of heat: melts at high temp. Ironed in low temperature.
Property Significance
Effect of Alkalies: No Easy to wash
harmful effect. Long
exposure damage fabric
Effect of acid: no effect.
Strong effect destroy fabric
Dyes: easy to dye. Retain colour, no
fading.
Not damaged by moth and Easy to maintain and
mildew store
Flammability: melts away
from flame.
 BLENDED FIBRES
• Polyester+ cotton: Terrycot
• Property of both cotton and polyester.
• 65% polyester and 35% cotton.
• Do not deshape, property of absorbency.
• suitable for hot and damp climate
• Easy to maintain.
• Suitable for shirts and trousers., bedsheet, curtains.
 Polyester + wool
• Terrywool.
• More strength and keeps it shape.
• More durable than wool
• 65% polyester and 35% wool
• For more warmth 50% polyester and wool
each.
 Polyester + Silk – Terrysilk
• Blending of silk and Polyester
• Fabric soft, smooth and lustrous
• More durable than silk and not wrinkled.
• Easy to maintain.
• Efforts are made to reduce demerits of
polyester to make it give the feeling of
coolness after absorbing sweat.