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Satin and Sateen

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50 views9 pages

Satin and Sateen

Uploaded by

sunanthavinod1975
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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4.

Satin/Sateen Weave

 Similar to twill weave but the diagonal line of the satin weave is not
visible.

 It is purposely interrupted in order to contribute to the flat, smooth,


lustrous surface desired.

 Interlacing points are arranged so as to allow the floating threads to slip


and cover the binding point of one thread by the float of the other which
results in the maximum degree of smoothness and luster.

 A smooth lustrous surface created by extensive floating (length of yarn


with out interlacement) of the warp (satin) or weft (sateen) on the face
side of the fabric.
 There is no visible design on the face of the fabric.

 In a true satin weave, each warp and weft yarn only interlace once in
each repeat of weave.

 Satin weave fabrics have relatively long floats.

 Express in fraction wherein the numerator signifies the Repeat of the


weave [R] and the Denominator indicates the vertical shift [So]
Satin Weave
Shift Rules/ steps
i. Shift [s]>1
ii. ‘S’ should not be [R-1]
iii. ‘S’ should not be equal to the
Repeat [R]
iv. ‘S’ must not be a factor of
weave repeat [R]
v. The smallest number of
5 shaft warp face satin
possible threads is 5 [ R≥5]

In a warp face satin, the face is predominantly warp yarn


In a weft face satin, the weft yarns are predominant on the face.
Satin weave may be designated by the number of harnesses they require in weaving,
such as five-harness satin.
Satin-weave Fabric

 Satin fabric is made from filament yarns, with the warp yarns
predominant on the face.

 Satin fabrics are smooth and lustrous because lustrous filament yarns
are used; there are few interlacing points, that gives long floats; and the
face yarns are fine and closely packed.

 Since the greatest lustre is in the lengthwise (warp) direction, garments


using this fabric in warp direction show lustre effect.

 Generally wove face down on the loom.

Abreha B
Sateen Weave

 Sateen fabric is a durable cotton


fabric, usually with weft face
satin weave.

 It is not lustrous as satin fabric


as spun yarns are used.

 Since it is also heavier, with


thicker yarns, it is not as drapable
as satin fabric.

Weft face Satin


Irregular Satin/Sateen weave
Satin/Sateen weave can be classified:
Regular satin/sateen weave which fulfills the shift rule. E.g. 5 &7 end
Irregular satin/sateen weave which doesn’t fulfill the shift rule. E.g. 4 & 6 end

Case 1: Construct a sateen weave having Repeat [R]= 4 & shift [s]= 1,2,3,2

Case 2: Construct a sateen weave having Repeat


[R]= 6 & shift [s]= 2,3,4,4,3,2
Variable shift Rules
Suppose given shift [s]=a the irregular satin/sateen which has repeat [R], the
shift
will be:
Up to R/2 take shift [s] =a
At R/2+1 take shift [s]=R/2
Finally, the rest take shift [s] = - a
N.B. a ≠ R/2

Case 1 Construct a sateen weave having Repeat [R]= 6 using the rules
of variable shift.

Let us assume the shift [s]=2], the shift will be:


Up to R/2 take shift [s] =2
At R/2+1 take shift [s]=R/2=3
Finally, the rest take shift [s] = - 2

Abreha B
Sateen Derivatives
(1) Reinforced sateen
• It is similar to that of reinforced twill wherein one more overlap should be
added for every overlaps of the basic sateen. Additional overlaps in the
repeat make the fabric structure stronger.

Ex. 1. Construct a Reinforced sateen on the base of sateen


8/5

Ex. 2. Construct a Reinforced sateen on the base of sateen 5/2


(2) Shaded sateen
 Shaded sateen represents a gradual transition from the sateen with weft
effect to, the sateen with warp effect, and vice versa.
 The repeat Ry and Ro of the shaded sateen is determined by the formula:
Ry = Ryb
Ro= Rob(Rob-1)

Ex. 1. Construct a Shaded sateen on the base of sateen 5/2


The repeat Ry and Ro of the shaded sateen is determined by the formula:
Ry = Ryb= 5
Ro= Rob(Rob-1)=5(5-1)=20

Ex. 2. Construct a Shaded sateen on the base of sateen 8/3

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