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FSD Lecture 2

This document discusses different types of fabric weaves, focusing on plain weave. It describes the key features of plain weave, including that threads interlace in an alternate order with two ends and two picks per repeat. It also classifies plain weave based on warp and weft cover factors, into approximately square, warp-faced, and weft-faced cloth. Derivatives of plain weave include warp rib weave, which produces horizontal rib or cord effects, and matt weave, also known as basket or hopsack weave, which results from extending the plain weave pattern.

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115 views5 pages

FSD Lecture 2

This document discusses different types of fabric weaves, focusing on plain weave. It describes the key features of plain weave, including that threads interlace in an alternate order with two ends and two picks per repeat. It also classifies plain weave based on warp and weft cover factors, into approximately square, warp-faced, and weft-faced cloth. Derivatives of plain weave include warp rib weave, which produces horizontal rib or cord effects, and matt weave, also known as basket or hopsack weave, which results from extending the plain weave pattern.

Uploaded by

mushfika
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© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Fabric Structure and Design Analysis

Normally weaves are of 3 types:


i. Plain
ii. Twill
iii. Satin

Plain Weave
Features of Plain Weave:

 Threads interlacing in alternate order.


 The repeat contains two ends and two picks.
 Both sides of the weave are identical.
 Each thread gives maximum amount of support to the adjacent threads.
 Texture is stronger and firmer than any other ordinary cloth.
 Made from all kind of textile raw materials and yarns i.e. cotton, linen, jute, man-made fibres,
both spun and continuous filament yarns.
 It comprises a high production of the total output of woven fabrics.
 Two heald shafts are sufficient to produce plain weave, when the number of ends/inch is large,
four or six heald shafts are used with skip draft.
 The thread density is limited
Classification of Plain Weave:

According to warp and weft cover factors

i. Approximately square cloth


 E.P.I= P.P.I
 Warp count = Weft count
 Warp cover factor = Weft cover factor
 Warp crimp (%) = Weft crimp (%)
 The warp and weft are equally prominent.

ii. Warp faced cloth


 E.P.I > P.P.I
 Warp count > Weft count
 Warp cover factor>Weft cover factor
 Warp crimp (%) > Weft crimp (%)
 The warp are prominent.

iii. Warp faced cloth


 E.P.I < P.P.I
 Warp count < Weft count
 Warp cover factor < Weft cover factor
 Warp crimp (%) < Weft crimp (%)
 The wefts are prominent.

Another method of classification

Balanced cloth

 E.P.I=P.P.I
 Warp count=Weft count
 Warp crimp (%)=Weft crimp (%)
 The warp and weft are equally prominent.

Unbalanced cloth

 E.P.I= P.P.I, but warp count≠ weft count


 E.P.I≠ P.P.I, but Warp count=Weft count
 E.P.I≠ P.P.I, but Warp count≠ Weft count
Ornamentation of plain cloth

 The threads in both warp and weft vary in color, raw material,
 Types of construction and in thickness.
 Threads of different colors are combined in check form.
 By using fancy slub yarn
 By combining different orders of denting
 By using two warp beams, which are differently tensioned. E.g: Seersucker stripe production
 By using different twisted yarn, such as hard twisted weft yarn for producing crepe effect.
 By using different textile materials, such as wool and cotton produce union fabric.
 By using a specially shaped reed, which rises and falls the threads are caused to form zigzag lines
in the cloth.
 By using extremely fine or coarse yarn.

Derivatives of Plain Weave:


Warp Rib Weave:

Ribbed or corded effects are variations of the plain weave. Main features of warp rib fabrics are as
follows:

 Warp yarns are used as a single yarn and weft yarns are used as group or bundle yarns.
 Rib or cord effects are shown horizontally i. e. weft – way rib effects.
 The formula number of a typical warp rib weave is 2/2 warp rib, 4/1 warp rib etc.
 In the repeat size, the number of warp yarn is always two and the number of weft yarn depends on
the formula number, it is the sum of warp and weft floats.

Uses:
Rib weaves are used in gross grain cloths, matelasse fabrics, repp cloth which is extensively employed
for window blinds in railway carriages and other vehicles, upholstering furniture, and cambric picket
handkerchief.
Matt Weave:

These weaves are also variously known as hopsack or basket weaves. The matt rib structures result from
extending the plain weave in both directions. A variation of the plain weave usually basket or
checkerboard pattern Contrasting colors are often used Inexpensive, less durable than plain weave. Basket
weave is the amplification in height and width of plain weave. Two or more yarns have to be lifted or
lowered over or under two or more picks for each plain weave point.

Uses:
Matt weave finds extensive uses for a great variety of fabrics such as dress materials, shirtings, sail cloth,
duck cloth etc.

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