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Epic Looper 101

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
41 views17 pages

Epic Looper 101

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mayasfinest
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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JMK PCBs/THC Effects presents...

The EPIC Looper


PCB and SChematic Artwork (c) 2013 JMK Pedals
Rev 1.0.1: 12/23/2013

This Document is designed for personal use only! Do not post this document online or use this to create a
product for sale without permission of itʼs owner: jmkpcbs@gmail.com
Introducing the Epic Looper!
• 5 True Bypass loops for switching either single or multiple effects in and out of a signal
chain. These loops feature relay controlled true bypass, which completely removes
unused effects from the chain, as well as operating with little or no noise or popping.
• Four banks hold five programmable presets in each bank. These presets are made up
of any combination the five true bypass loops in sequential (1-5) order.
• Each Preset gives the ability to allow a user to switch several effects on or off at once
without having to do the typical ʻtap dancing actʼ that conventional bypass units still
rely on. Each set of combinations is accessed using five loop switches with dual colour
LEDs that indicate both which preset and which loops are on or off.
• A ʻfifthʼ bank is dedicated to be used in ʻmanual mode.ʼ Manual mode allows the user
to turn each of the five loop bypass loops on or off as a typical bypass unit would
allow. There are no presets in this mode, which allows a user to simply choose a
combination of loops on the fly without needing to program.
• The bank switch cycles through the five banks available (manual mode plus banks
1-4) and is also used for programming each loop. It is accompanied by an RGB LED
indicating which bank is currently active with five different colors.
• The Epic Looper is easy to program! You only need to use your feet to program any
preset - you can do so while standing and holding your instrument.
• The fifth loop can also be set using internal jumpers to be used as a switch for an
external device. This feature could be used for switching functions on an amp on or
off, or for switching on any device that uses an open/closed latching switch between
tip and ground.
• The Epic Looper also features a Midi Output option, which allows the user to program
a midi controllable unit to work in conjunction with the presets in each of the 4
programmable banks of the Epic Looper. In Manual Mode, Midi is inactive. Currently,
there is no midi input support available.
• For power, the Epic Looper runs on typical Boss standard 9VDC tip negative power
supplies. The estimated amperage use of the unit is under 400mA.
• The Epic Looper is designed to be built into standard, already available enclosure
easily sourced from common DIY pedal supply shops. In particular, the 4site 1032L
Looper enclosure is supported, as is the common Hammond 1411 sized enclosures,
both of which are available from Pedal Parts Plus.

This Document is designed for personal use only! Do not post this document online or use this to create a
product for sale without permission of itʼs owner: jmkpcbs@gmail.com
Shopping for Parts to Build the Epic Looper

The Epic Looper is designed so that a builder could choose to source parts from one
universal location if desired (aside from the PCB set and possibly the enclosure).
However, there are parts that a user might be able to find a better deal on elsewhere.
The cost of additional shipping has to be weighed against the cost benefits of less
expensive parts from multiple vendors.
• Mouser: A builder could order all the parts needed aside from the PCB set from
Mouser, including appropriate enclosures. However, the recommended enclosure
is not available from Mouser, and the prices on some parts are expensive. That
said, they can have just about all the parts you need for this project to your door in
as little as 24 hours, AND you may still be placing an order with Mouser for this
project as they have great prices on some of the necessary parts you will NEED for
this build. Itʼs convenient to order from one place, and the cost is still within reason,
just not the cheapest. So, if youʼre going to make an order with Mouser, choose
whether youʼll buy some or all the parts there.
• Tayda: Some of the parts needed for this build are available at Tayda, but not all.
The benefit to ordering from Tayda is that some of the parts they supply are nearly
as good and much, much less expensive than those available from other suppliers.
Moreover, taking advantage of the discount sales that Tayda offer as well as their
fairly inexpensive shipping rates might mean you can save a lot while still ordering
from multiple suppliers. In particular, one might consider Tayda when purchasing
some passive components, sockets, RGB LED, Header/Housing assemblies**.
• Pedal Parts Plus: Our favourite location to get the recommended enclosure (4site
1032L) is from Pedal Parts Plus (PPP). Their service and product are both
fantastic. One of the benefits to buying from PPP includes being able to select a
color of powdercoat for the 1032L enclosure at a very reason able rate (~$20 for a
painted enclosure). However, shipping from PPP to those outside the US is often
expensive, so if you are not willing to spend that much, look for other options.
• Other: Especially for those not in North America, there are other supply options for
many of these parts. Mouser, Tayda, and PPP are international suppliers, which
certainly helps, but you may be able to find all or even most of the parts needed
from your own favorite vendor. Keep on eye on those shipping rates!
** Header and Housing assemblies are optional for this build. The Molex headers
available from Mouser are fantastic but expensive. Tayda has an inexpensive version
thatʼs similar and a fraction of the price. See the ʻwiringʼ section for more details.

*A special note about RGB LEDs*


RGB LEDs are fickle things, and despite trying out best to find a good, inexpensive
option, it might mean you need to make multiple orders. The Kingbright RGB from
Mouser is not a good option. But, the RGB from Tayda is pretty good. The best one we
found was an option was a Hanhua RGB LED we found on Ebay.

This Document is designed for personal use only! Do not post this document online or use this to create a
product for sale without permission of itʼs owner: jmkpcbs@gmail.com
Epic Looper shopping List

# Part Mouser Tayda

1 5 Position DIP Switch 774-2085 n/a

1 6 Pin Bussed 100K Resistor Array 652-4606X-1LF-100K n/a

1 100R 1/4 Watt Resistor 660-MF1/4DCT52R1000F link

5 2.2M 1/4 Watt Resistor 660-MF1/4LCT52R225G link

10 330R 1/4 Watt Resistor 660-MF1/4LCT52R331J link

2 220R 1/4 Watt Resistor 660-MF1/4LCT52R221J link

3 3K 1/4 Watt Resistor 660-MF1/4LCT52R302G link

5 Red/Green Diffused LED (Common Cathode) 604-WP59EGW n/a

1 RGB Diffused LED (Common Cathode) 604-WP154A4-RGB link

4-8 3/16” Plastic Standoff 561-187TAB n/a

1 Neutrik NYS325 Midi Jack 568-NYS325 n/a

12 Neutrik NYS229 1/4” Jack 568-NYS229 link

1 DC Jack n/a link

6 Alpha DPDT Momentary Switch 107-SF12011F-M link

1 2x4 Pin Header 571-5-146254-4 link

6 Black Nylon LED Bezel 604-CB55 link

5 Fujitsu 5V Low Signal Relay 817-RY-5W-K n/a

3 16 pin IC Socket 517-4816-3004-CP link

1 18 pin IC Socket 517-4818-3004-CP link

3 Header Shunt 649-68786-302LF n/a

2 100nF Capacitor 80-R82DC3100AA50J link

3 220uF Radial Electrolytic Capacitor 647-UVR1C221MED link

2 74HC595 LED Driver 595-SN74HC595N n/a

1 ULN2003A Darlington Array 511-ULN2003A link

1 L7805 1.0A 5V Regulator 511-L7805ABV link

1 1N4001 Diode 625-1N4001E-E3/54 link

This Document is designed for personal use only! Do not post this document online or use this to create a
product for sale without permission of itʼs owner: jmkpcbs@gmail.com
Optional Pin Header/Housing Shopping List

# Part Mouser Tayda

60 Bulk Crimp Terminal 538-08-50-0032 link

9 2 Position Header 538-22-27-2021 link

9 2 Position Housing 538-22-01-2025 link

5 4 Position Header 538-22-27-2041 link

5 4 Position Housing 538-22-01-2045 link

1 5 Position Header 538-22-27-2051 link

1 5 Position Housing 538-22-01-2055 link

2 7 Position Header 538-22-27-2071 link

2 7 Position Housing 538-22-01-2075 link

This Document is designed for personal use only! Do not post this document online or use this to create a
product for sale without permission of itʼs owner: jmkpcbs@gmail.com
Populating the Epic Looper PCBs

Please note - The Epic Looper is NOT a beginner level project. If you are unfamiliar
with DIY Pedal building, or are new and inexperienced with large scale projects, we
suggest getting a few projects under your belt before tackling the Epic Looper. Check
out www.jmkpcbs.com and diy.thcustom.com for some project ideas.
The Epic Looper is a modular PCB system, which allows the user to include or leave out
certain features if desired.
• The heart of the Epic Looper system lies in the Control Board, which houses the
digital elements - micro controller and other ICs - the ʻbrainʼ if you will.
• The Audio Board houses the relays and connections for the loops - rest assured
that your signal does not go near any digital elements.
• The Bank Switch Board mounts to an Alpha style DPDT momentary switch, and
handles both the programming details and cycles through the banks
• The Loop Switch Boards also mount to Alpha style DPDT momentary switches,
and control the individual loops or act as presets
It should be noted that there are some elements that are necessary for this build to
function correctly. These elements are not optional:
• Input and output Jacks
• 1/4” Jacks, Switch PCB, LED, relays and resistors for each bypass loop (1-5)
• The 4 ICs and the power regulator on the Control Board PCB
• The 4x2 pin header that is required for setting Loop 5 to either loop bypass or
switching mode
• Loop 5 must be used at minimum among the 5 loops available
• Bank Switch PCB with DPDT switch, RGB LED and resistors
• The passive components on the Control and Audio Board PCBs
• The DC Jack
There are elements that are not necessary to the operation of the Epic Looper. The
following are optional:
• A user may choose to use less than 5 loops (leave off loops 1-4 if fewer than 5
loops/presets are desired). To do so, you may leave off the jacks, relay and
resistors for each loop you desire to leave out. Note that jumpers are required for
this method to function. Email us to learn about how to set this up as an option.
• Midi Jack, R1, R2, and 5 pin DIP switch on the Control Board can be left off if the
user does not desire Midi Output for their unit.
• You donʼt have to use 4 standoffs, but there are holes for 8. Itʼs up to you how
many get used.
• Itʼs up to you if youʼd like to use LED Bezels. We recommend plastic ones because
the legs of the LEDs may touch the sides of the Bezels - metal would ground out.
This Document is designed for personal use only! Do not post this document online or use this to create a
product for sale without permission of itʼs owner: jmkpcbs@gmail.com
5V Low Signal Relays
4x2 Pin Header
Other
The Audio Board Layout

K1-K5
JP1

220uF
100nF
100R
2.2M
Passives

R2-R6
R1

C1
C2

This Document is designed for personal use only! Do not post this document online or use this to create a
product for sale without permission of itʼs owner: jmkpcbs@gmail.com
The Control Board Layout

Passives ICs Other


R1, R2 220R IC1 ULN2003 Unmarked 5DIP Switch
C1, C3 220uF IC2 74HC595
C2 100nF IC3 74HC595
D1 1N4001 IC4 PIC16

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6 pin100K
RN1 REG 7805
Resistor Array

*Note* Rev 1.1 of the Control Board features a backwards Silkscreen image for the Regulator.
Orient the regulator as above, with the tab towards the DIP switch.

This Document is designed for personal use only! Do not post this document online or use this to create a
*Note* Rev 1.1 of this PCB does NOT include the power protection diode D1. All subsequent
versions do include it however.
The Switch Board Layouts

long pin goes here


<- Loop Switch
R1, R2 1K
Red/Green
D1
Dual Color LED
Momentary
Switch
DPDT
Bank Switch ->
R1-R3 3K
LED RGB LED
Momentary
Switch
DPDT

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*Note* To properly orient the Dual Colour LEDs, we recommend comparing the datasheet of
the LED you have purchased to the Loop Switch board. Keep in mind that the R2 side Loop
on/off side, and R1 is the Preset on/off side. So, if you want green to be your loop colour, and
red to be your preset colour, orient your LED accordingly.

This Document is designed for personal use only! Do not post this document online or use this to create a
Tips for Assembling and Wiring the Epic Looper

The Epic Looper is designed to be wired using either soldered wires or pin headers and
wire housings. The builder has the choice which theyʼd like to use:
• Soldered wires: This option has the least cost, but creates the hazard of being
difficult to disassemble the entire unit if trouble shooting and repair becomes an
issue. Once itʼs built, It is not recommended to remove the wiring. De-soldering
wire is possible, but there is always the risk of ruining pads on the PCB after too
many de-solder and re-solder passes.
• Headers/Housings: This option can be costly, but the benefit is that a user can
assemble and disassemble the elements of this PCB for maintenance or trouble
shooting without needing to remove every element from an enclosure. In addition,
Headers and Pins keep the wiring very tidy and organized. Keep in mind, if youʼve
never worked with these before, thereʼs a learning curve, and you may need to
google for some advice or tutorials.
Itʼs highly recommended that, whichever option they choose, the builder should work to
keep the wiring both neat and tidy and with wires being reasonably short in length. Here
are some ideas to consider:
• Keep the Audio and Control board next to each other with the 7 pin header
connections on the same edge. This will allow you to run a simple, fairly straight,
and short connection between these two main boards.
• If possible, orient the Audio and Control PCBs in the enclosure so that the switch
connections made to the control board, and the jack connections made to the
audio board, are arranged in the same direction. You should be able cross wires
without issues, however the boards are designed so that both the switches and the
jacks work together starting from the same end and progressing together along the
enclosure without needing to cross them or mix them up.
• Carefully drill the holes for your LEDs or Bezels at the correct distance from the
switches. This will allow you to mount the LEDs directly to the switch boards. This
is not necessary, but it certainly cuts down on the wiring.
• For the entire build, there could be nearly 50 wires, each with a soldered or molex
end. Use consistent colored wiring for your wiring to help with trouble shooting, and
consider that 100 solder joints for those wires is no small task and may take some
time to put together.
When contemplating your build, consider the following:
• The enclosure we recommend (the 1032L) is easily capable of mounting 6 stomp
switches in either a staggered or straight pattern. Itʼs also easily capable of
mounting the 12 necessary jacks. The PCBs should easily fit mounted on the lid.
• Plan carefully, and measure several times before drilling and mounting the build.
• The Audio and Control boards have 4 holes in the corners. These are available for
using either plastic or metal standoffs.

This Document is designed for personal use only! Do not post this document online or use this to create a
product for sale without permission of itʼs owner: jmkpcbs@gmail.com
Epic Looper Wiring Diagram

Loop 5 Loop 1
Return - Send Return - Send
GND

... OUT ...


IN

GND

+9V
GND

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Please note - the grounds on each of the jacks should connect somehow, either through the
enclosure or with wired connections
- The Input and Output both have a ground connection and you don need to use both if you are
using open frame metal jacks

This Document is designed for personal use only! Do not post this document online or use this to create a
Bypass/Switching with Loop Five

There are two ways to set up loop five to operate:


• Loop five can operate in ʻLoop Modeʼ as a normal true bypass loop, just as loops
one through four would operate
• Loop five can operate in ʻSwitching Modeʼ as a switching device typically used for
toggling an amp channel, or reverb, or some other device or function which utilizes
a remote switch.
Keep in mind that when in ʻSwitching Modeʼ instead of ʻLoop modeʼ that the signal
passes from loop four to the output. This means that you can still use the first four loops
in the standard format, and simply control your switched device as needed.
While in ʻSwitching Mode,ʼ the two jacks for loop five change from ʻsendʼ and ʻreturnʼ to
the following function:
• The Send Jack is ʻopen,ʼ meaning that the tip of the jack is disconnected from
Ground when the switch is off. When the switch is turned on, the send jack
becomes ʻclosed,ʼ meaning that the tip of the jack is connected to ground.
• The Return Jack operates in reverse from the send jack. The Return jack is
ʻclosedʼ when the switch is off, and is ʻopenʼ when the switch is on.
Consult your device or amp for the required switching scheme needed to determine if
the Epic Looper is capable of handling your switching needs, and which jack to utilize.
Currently, TRS switching jacks are not supported, so keep that in mind if when using
this element of the Epic Looper.

Setting Loop five for Switching or bypass

Setting loop five for Switching or Bypass simply requires 3 shunts, which connect three
sets of two pins on the 2x4 pin header located on the Audio Board. They need to be set
in one of the following configurations:

Switching Bypass

This Document is designed for personal use only! Do not post this document online or use this to create a
product for sale without permission of itʼs owner: jmkpcbs@gmail.com
Selecting Your channel for Midi

In order to send a Program Change message via Midi, you need to make sure that the
midi device you are trying to change and the device you are controlling it with (the Epic
Looper for example) are using the same Midi Channel. There is a potential for 16
different channels of midi communication, and you can set your Epic Looper to ʻspeakʼ
on any of those 16 different channels. Hereʼs a description on how to set your channel:

Midi Channel Dip Switch 1 Dip Switch 2 Dip Switch 3 Dip Switch 4

1 off off off off

2 on off off off

3 off on off off

4 on on off off

5 off off off on

6 on off off on

7 off on off on

8 on on off on

9 off off on off

10 on off on off

11 off on on off

12 on on on off

13 off off on on

14 on off on on

15 off on on on

16 on on on on

This Document is designed for personal use only! Do not post this document online or use this to create a
product for sale without permission of itʼs owner: jmkpcbs@gmail.com
Audio Board Schematic

This Document is designed for personal use only! Do not post this document online or use this to create a
product for sale without permission of itʼs owner: jmkpcbs@gmail.com
Control Board Schematic

This Document is designed for personal use only! Do not post this document online or use this to create a
product for sale without permission of itʼs owner: jmkpcbs@gmail.com
Bank Switch Schematic

This Document is designed for personal use only! Do not post this document online or use this to create a
product for sale without permission of itʼs owner: jmkpcbs@gmail.com
Loop Switch Schematic

This Document is designed for personal use only! Do not post this document online or use this to create a
product for sale without permission of itʼs owner: jmkpcbs@gmail.com

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