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Demogorgon Pattern

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100% found this document useful (1 vote)
619 views15 pages

Demogorgon Pattern

Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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You are on page 1/ 15

Stranger Things Demogorgon Crochet Pattern

You Will Need:


• 4 ply cotton (red, grey, black and white)
• 3.00mm hook
• Stitch Marker
• Darning Needle
• Polyester Filling

Stitches Used (UK Terms):


• Magic ring
• Chain (ch)
• Double Crochet (dc)
• 2 Double Crochet together (decreasing stitch) – (2dctog)

Notes:
• This pattern is mainly worked in the round, in continuous rounds, so a stitch marker is essential.
• When it says “2dc” it means work 2 double crochet into the same stitch. When it says “1dc x 3”, or
“1dc x 4” etc, it means work 1 double crochet into 3 consecutive stitches, or 4, or whatever the
number states.
• If you aren’t sure on using a magic ring, use whatever method you prefer to start working in the
round.
• I used 4ply cotton and a 3.00mm hook, but it will work with any type of yarn and the corresponding
hook size.
• Written pattern (with no images) is at the end of this document.

1
Pattern
Legs (Make 2) – Worked in continuous rounds, use a stitch marker to mark the start of each round.
1. Magic ring, ch1, 6dc into ring (6dc)
2. 2dc into each stitch around (12dc)

3. 2dc, 1dc x 3, repeat around (15dc)

4. 2dc, 1dc x4, repeat around (18dc)


5. 1dc all around (18dc)
6. 1dc in back loops only (this will create a ridge needed for later) (18dc)

7. – 15. 1dc all around (18dc)

2
16. 1dc x 5, 2dctog, 1dc x 5, 2dctog, 1dc x 4 (16dc) (2dctog – insert hook into stitch, yarn over (yo), pull
back through stitch - 2 loops on hook, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull back through stitch - 3
loops on hook, yo, pull through all 3 loops)

17. 1dc all around (16dc)


18. 1dc x 3, 2dctog, 1dc x 3, 2dctog, 1dc x 3, 2dctog, 1dc (13dc).

Fasten off 1st leg but keep the yarn attached on the 2nd leg.

Joining Legs
19. With yarn and hook still attached to 2nd leg, ch2, then 1dc into any top stitch of 1st leg, and then work
1dc into each stitch around (should be 13dc). When you get to the chain, work 1dc into each chain
but only go through 1 loop each time. Then work 1dc into each stitch around the top of the 2nd leg,
and 1dc into each chain of the ch2 (going through the other loops this time). (30dc)

The images here try and show the sequence of joining the legs together ready to start the body.

3
Body
20. – 28. 1dc all around (30dc)

29. 1dc x 4, 2dctog, repeat around (25dc)


30. 1dc all around (25dc)
31. 1dc x 3, 2dctog, repeat around (20dc)
32. 1dc all around (20dc) (time to stuff legs and body)

33. 1dc x 3, 2dctog (16dc)


34. 1dc all around (16dc)
35. 1dc x 2, 2dctog, repeat around (12dc)
36. 1dc all around (12dc)

Head
37. 1dc, 2dc, repeat around (18dc)
38. 1dc, 1dc, 2dc, repeat around (24dc)
39. 1dc x 3, 2dc, repeat around (30dc)
40. 1dc x 4, 2dc, repeat around (36dc)
41. 1dc all around (36dc)
42. 1dc all around (36dc)
43. 2dctog, 1dc x 4, repeat around (30dc)
44. 2dctog, 1dc x 3, repeat around (24dc)
45. 2dctog, 1dc x 2, repeat around (18dc)
46. 1dc all around (18dc)
47. 2dctog, 1dc, repeat around (12dc) – stuff head
48. 2dctog, 1dc, repeat around (8dc)
4
49. 2dctog all around. Slip stitch closed and fasten off.

Arms (Make 2)
1. Magic ring, ch1, 6dc into ring (6dc)
2. 2dc into each stitch around (12dc)
3. 1dc all around (12dc)
4. 1dc (in back loops only) all around (12dc)
5. – 23. 1dc all around. Fasten off but leave long tail for attaching to body.

Stuff both arms, stitch the opening closed, then attach to body just below the head.

Feet (toes)
Turn your figure upside down and look for round 6 (easily identifiable by the ridge created when you worked
in the back loops on row 6), on the right leg (right leg if your figure is lying on his back)

Attach your yarn to a stitch on the right-hand side in round 6 (making sure that you are going to be able to fit
5 toes on). Work 1dc into that stitch. Into the next 5 stitches work the following sequences:

1. (1dc, ch3, then work 1 dc into the 2nd & 3rd chains from the hook) – First toe complete.
2. (1dc ch4, 1dc x 3 down the chain)
3. (1dc, ch5, 1dc x 4 down the chain)
4. (1dc, ch4, 1dc x 3 down the chain)
5. (1dc, ch2, 1dc into chain)
6. Then work 1dc into each stitch around until you get back to where you started (should be 11dc)
Fasten off and sew in ends.

The left leg is the same as above, only backwards, so join at the right hand side of the left leg (in round 6),
then 1dc, (1dc, ch2, 1dc into chain), (1dc, ch4, 1dc x 3 down the chain), (1dc, ch5, 1dc x 4 down the chain),
(1dc ch4, 1dc x 3 down the chain), (1dc, ch3, 1dc x 2 down the chain), 1 dc around to the start. Fasten off,
sew in ends.

I tried to photograph the steps for the feet, but it’s quite fiddly and hard to get a good shot, but hopefully
these will help:
My needle is pointing
Here you can see the Here is the 1st dc worked Here is the first toe
where you need to work
ridges from round 6 on round 6 complete
a dc into the chain

5
Hands (fingers)
These are worked in a similar fashion to the feet. Turn your figure upside down and look for row 4 on the left
arm (easily identifiable by the ridge created by working in the back loops).

Select a stitch near to the body and attach your yarn, and work 1dc. Then into the next 5 stitches work the
following sequences:

1. (1dc, ch2, 1dc into 2nd ch from hook)


2. (1dc, ch3, work 1dc x 2 down the ch)
3. (1dc, ch5, 1dc x 4 down the ch)
4. (1dc, ch4, 1dc x 3 down the ch)
5. (1dc, ch3, 1dc x 2 down the ch)
6. Then work 1dc into each stitch around until you get back to where you started. Join and fasten off,
sew in ends.

Do the same on the right arm only you will have to work it backwards to make sure the hands are
symmetrical.

Attach your yarn in a loop on round 4, but this time it will have to be in a stitch furthest away from the body
and work 1dc. Then into the next 5 stitches work the following sequences: 1. (1dc, ch3, 1dc x 2 down the ch),
2. (1dc, ch4, 1dc x 3 down the chain), 3. (1dc, ch5, 1dc x 4 down the ch), 4. (1dc, ch3, work 1dc x 2 down the
ch), 5. (1dc, ch2, 1dc into ch). Then work 1dc into each stitch around until you are back at the start. Join,
fasten off and sew in ends.

Head/Face/Petals
For the head I will refer to it as a flower and its petals, because that is essentially what it is.

Using black yarn:


1. Magic ring, ch1, 8dc into ring (8dc)
2. 2dc into each stitch around (16dc)
3. 1dc, 2dc repeat around (24dc)
4. 1dc, 1dc, 2dc, repeat around (32dc). Fasten off.

You can create a ridge around the black centre which gives the final look at bit more texture – it’s optional
but I think it make the finished result just a bit better. Work 1 round of dc around the stitches in round 3 on
the front of your work (see 2nd and 3rd photos above). Fasten off and sew in ends.

6
Petals - There are 5 petals in total, the bottom 2 are slightly larger than the top 3, so the top 3 need to be
worked next to each other. They are worked in rows rather than rounds, so you need to turn your work at
the end of each row.

Top petals (make 3):


Attach red yarn to any stitch around your black centre circle.

1. 1dc x 6, ch1, turn.

2. 2dc, 1dc x 4, 2dc, ch1, turn.

3. 2dc, 1dc x 6, 2dc, ch1, turn.

4. 1dc into each stitch across, ch1, turn.


5. 1dc into each stitch across, ch1, turn.
6. 2dctog, 2dctog, 1dc x 2, 2dctog, 2dctog, ch1, turn.
7. 2dctog, 1dc x 2, 2dctog, ch1, turn.
8. 2dctog x 2, ch1, turn.
9. 2dctog. Fasten off.

7
Repeat the sequence above in the next available stitch 2 more times, so you’ll have 3 petals next to each
other.

Bottom Petals (Make 2):


1. Join yarn into next available stitch, and work 1dc into 7 stitches, ch1, turn
2. 2dc, 1dc x 5, 2dc, ch1, turn
3. 2dc, 1dc x 7, 2dc, ch1, turn
4. 1dc x 11, ch1, turn
5. 1dc x 11 ch1, turn
6. 2dctog, 1dc x 7, 2dctog, ch1, turn
7. 2dctog, 1dc x 5, 2dctog, ch1, turn
8. 2dctog, 1dc x 3, 2dctog, ch1, turn
9. 2dctog, 1dc x 1, 2dctog, ch1, turn
10. 2dctog, 1dc. Fasten off.

Repeat the above in the remaining 7 stitches. You should now have 5 petals. Sew in all the ends before you
begin the next step.

To finish off your flower/petals, you need to work the same sequences in grey yarn behind the red petals.

Turn your work over and choose any red petal to start with and find the 1st stitch of that petal. The first row
of your grey petal will have to be worked around each stitch of the 1st row of the red petal.

8
The best way to start is to put a slip knot on your hook, push your hook through your work and work a
standing dc around the 1st stitch of the red petal.

And then work 1dc around each subsequent stitch.

Once you have your 1st row of grey then you can finish off the petal, following the same steps as with the red
petals – remember you do not need to work anymore stitches around the red. It should hang separately
from the red petal.

Do this for each petal and sew in all your ends.

Once you have completed each grey petal, you need to attach the red and grey petals together using double
crochet.

9
Line up all your petals and join your grey yarn at any point making sure your hook goes through both the
grey and red petal and work a series of 1dc around the petals.

Try and get 1dc into the end of each row, but it’s not totally essential, as long as they look neat.

Work 2dc into the top stitch of each petal, and also 1dc into the 2 spaces between each petal.

When you are back where you started, fasten off but leave a long tail so you can attach your petals to the
head of the figure.

10
Once this is finished you can sew in the white flecks before attaching to the figure.

Position it in the middle of the head and using the tail you left before sew your flower securely to the head.

11
Basic Pattern
Legs (Make 2) – Worked in continuous rounds, use a stitch marker to mark start of rounds.
8. Magic ring, ch1, 6dc into ring (6dc)
9. 2dc into each stitch around (12dc)
10. (2dc, 1dc x 3) repeat around (15dc)
11. (2dc, 1dc x4) repeat around (18dc)
12. 1dc all around (18dc)
13. 1dc in back loops only (this will create a ridge we’ll refer to later) (18dc)
14. – 15. 1dc all around (18dc)
16. 1dc x 5, 2dctog, 1dc x 5, 2dctog, 1dc x 4 (16dc)
17. 1dc all around (16dc)
18. 1dc x 3, 2dctog, 1dc x 3, 2dctog, 1dc x 3, 2dctog, 1dc (13dc).
Fasten off 1st leg but keep the yarn attached on the 2nd leg.
Joining Legs
19. With hook still attached to 2nd leg, ch2, then 1dc into 1st stitch of 1st leg, and then work 1dc into each
stitch around. When you get the chain, work 1dc into each chain but only go through 1 loop each
time. Then work 1dc into each stitch around the top of the 2nd leg, and 1dc into each chain (going
through the other loop each time). (30dc)
Body
20. – 28. 1dc all around (30dc)
50. 1dc x 4, 2dctog, repeat around (25dc)
51. 1dc all around (25dc)
52. 1dc x 3, 2dctog, repeat around (20dc)
53. 1dc all around (20dc) (time to stuff legs and body)
54. 1dc x 3, 2dctog (16dc)
55. 1dc all around (16dc)
56. 1dc x 2, 2dctog, repeat around (12dc)
57. 1dc all around (12dc)
Head
58. 1dc, 2dc, repeat around
59. 1dc, 1dc, 2dc, repeat around
60. 1dc x 3, 2dc, repeat around
61. 1dc x 4, 2dc, repeat around
62. 1dc all around
63. 1dc all around
64. 2dctog, 1dc x 4, repeat around
65. 2dctog, 1dc x 3, repeat around
66. 2dctog, 1dc x 2, repeat around
67. 1dc all around (18dc)
68. 2dctog, 1dc, repeat around – stuff head
69. 2dctog, 1dc, repeat around
70. 2dctog all around. Slip stitch closed and fasten off.
Arms (Make 2)
1. Magic ring, ch1, 6dc into ring (6dc)
2. 2dc into each stitch around (12dc)
3. 1dc all around (12dc)
4. 1dc (in back loops only) all around (12dc)
12
5. – 23. 1dc all around. Fasten off but leave long tail for attaching to body.
Stuff both arms, stitch the opening closed and use the tail to sew to the body just below the head.
Hands (fingers)
These are worked in a similar fashion to the feet. Turn your figure upside down and look for row 4 on the left
arm (easily identifiable by the ridge created by working in the back loops).

Select a stitch near to the body and attach your yarn, and work 1dc. Then into the next 5 stitches work the
following sequences:

1. (1dc, ch2, 1dc into 2nd ch from hook)


2. (1dc, ch3, work 1dc x 2 down the ch)
3. (1dc, ch5, 1dc x 4 down the ch)
4. (1dc, ch4, 1dc x 3 down the ch)
5. (1dc, ch3, 1dc x 2 down the ch)
6. Then work 1dc into each stitch around until you get back to where you started. Join and fasten off,
sew in ends.

Do the same on the right arm only you will have to work it backwards to make sure the hands are
symmetrical.

Attach your yarn in a loop on round 4, but this time it will have to be in a stitch furthest away from the body
and work 1dc. Then into the next 5 stitches work the following sequences: 1. (1dc, ch3, 1dc x 2 down the ch),
2. (1dc, ch4, 1dc x 3 down the chain), 3. (1dc, ch5, 1dc x 4 down the ch), 4. (1dc, ch3, work 1dc x 2 down the
ch), 5. (1dc, ch2, 1dc into ch). Then work 1dc into each stitch around until you are back at the start. Join,
fasten off and sew in ends.

Feet (toes)
Turn your figure upside down and look for round 6 (easily identifiable by the ridge created when you worked
in the back loops on row 6), on the right leg (right leg if your figure is lying on his back)

Attach your yarn to a stitch on the right-hand side in round 6 (making sure that you are going to be able to fit
5 toes on). Work 1dc into that stitch. Into the next 5 stitches work the following sequences:

1. (1dc, ch3, then work 1 dc into the 2nd & 3rd chains from the hook) – First toe complete.
2. (1dc ch4, 1dc x 3 down the chain)
3. (1dc, ch5, 1dc x 4 down the chain)
4. (1dc, ch4, 1dc x 3 down the chain)
5. (1dc, ch2, 1dc into chain)
6. Then work 1dc into each stitch around until you get back to where you started (should be 11dc)
Fasten off and sew in ends.

The left leg is the same as above, only backwards, so join at the right hand side of the left leg (in round 6),
then 1dc, (1dc, ch2, 1dc into chain), (1dc, ch4, 1dc x 3 down the chain), (1dc, ch5, 1dc x 4 down the chain),
(1dc ch4, 1dc x 3 down the chain), (1dc, ch3, 1dc x 2 down the chain), 1 dc around to the start. Fasten off,
sew in ends.

Head/Face/Petals
For the head I will refer to it as a flower and its petals, because that is essentially what it is.
Using black yarn:
1. Magic ring, ch1, 8dc into ring (8dc)

13
2. 2dc into each stitch around (16dc)
3. 1dc, 2dc repeat around (24dc)
4. 1dc, 1dc, 2dc, repeat around (32dc). Fasten off.
You can create a ridge around the black centre which gives the final look at bit more texture – it’s optional
but I think it make the finished result just a bit better. Work 1 round of dc around the stitches in round 3 on
the front of your work. Fasten off and sew in ends.

Petals - There are 5 petals in total and the bottom 2 are slightly larger than the top 3, so the top 3 need to be
worked next to each other. These are worked in rows not rounds so you need to turn your work after each
step.
Top petals (make 3).

Attach red yarn to any stitch around the edge of your black centre circle:

1. 1dc x 6, ch1, turn


2. 2dc, 1dc x 4, 2dc, ch1, turn
3. 2dc, 1dc x 6, 2dc, ch1, turn
4. 1dc into each stitch across, ch1, turn
5. 1dc into each stitch across, ch1, turn
6. 2dctog, 2dctog, 1dc x 2, 2dctog, 2dctog, ch1, turn
7. 2dctog, 1dc x 2, 2dctog, ch1, turn
8. 2dctog x 2, ch1, turn
9. 2dctog. Fasten off.

Repeat the sequence above in the next available stitch 2 more times, so you’ll have 3 petals next to each
other.

Bottom Petals:

11. Join yarn into next available stitch, and work 1dc into 7 stitches, ch1, turn
12. 2dc, 1dc x 5, 2dc, ch1, turn
13. 2dc, 1dc x 7, 2dc, ch1, turn
14. 1dc x 11, ch1, turn
15. 1dc x 11 ch1, turn
16. 2dctog, 1dc x 7, 2dctog, ch1, turn
17. 2dctog, 1dc x 5, 2dctog, ch1, turn
18. 2dctog, 1dc x 3, 2dctog, ch1, turn
19. 2dctog, 1dc x 1, 2dctog, ch1, turn
20. 2dctog, 1dc. Fasten off.

Repeat the above in the remaining 7 stitches. You should now have 5 petals. Sew in all the ends before you
begin the next step.

To finish off your head, you need to work the same sequences in grey yarn behind the red petals.

Turn your work over and choose any red petal to start with and find the 1st stitch of that petal. The first row
of your grey petal will have to be worked around each stitch of the 1st row of the red petal.

The best way to start is to put a slip knot on your hook, push your hook through your work and work a
standing dc around the 1st stitch of a red petal. And then work 1dc around each subsequent stitch.

Then follow the same steps as you did for the red petals. Please note that once you have finished your first
row of grey, the rest of the grey petal is not worked around the red petal – it should stand alone from the
red petal. Repeat steps for all petals and sew in ends.
14
Once you have completed each grey petal, you need to double crochet the red and grey petals together.
Line up all your petals and join your grey yarn at any point on the edge of the petals, making sure your hook
goes through both the grey and red petal. Work a series of 1dc around the edges the petals – try and get
1dc into the end of each row, but it’s not totally essential, and 2dc into the top stitch at the tip of each petal,
and also 2dc in between each petal (the photos in the tutorial above really help with this)

When you are back where you started, fasten off but leave a long tail so you can attach your petals to the
head of the figure.

Before you attach it to your figure, take your white yarn and sew some random flecks in the red.

Then position it in the middle of the head, and using the tail sew your flower securely to the head.

15

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